Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

FROM CANTONMENT STEVENS TO OLYMPIA. the camp, narrows to half a mile in width, and is quite broken. In three miles more we crossed a creek eight yards wide, coming in from the northeast; and here the St. Mary's makes a sharp bend to the west and southwest, and runs through a rocky defile. The trail passes over high hills on the north, but a railroad may be constructed on a narrow margin of level ground along the river. Passing the hills, in four miles the road leads over a wooded table-land sixty feet above the river. The road continues good for twelve miles, when it passes over a ridge of basaltic rock abutting upon the river, which is here narrow and deep, running through a rocky defile. In two miles farther we reached a fine bottom affording good grass, and here we encamped, having made 30 miles. In the last twenty miles of this day's march there is no agricultural land; the river valley being generally no more than three-fourths of a mile in width, and in many places the lofty mountains on either side come close to the water. September 22.-We continued at an early hour down the stream, passing for eleven miles over a high plateau, wooded with an open and thifty growth of yellow pine, when we reached a point where the mountains upon this side abut upon the river in perpendicular rock. The trail leads for six miles over these mountains, while upon the opposite side of the river is a fine wooded bottom practicable for a railroad. Leaving the mountains, we struck a high sandy plain, wooded with pine, and affording a good road; at 5 p. m., having found some grass not destroyed by the fire which has lately run over the country, we encamped, having made 25 miles. - September 23.-Started early and pushed on at a good rate over a fine road, the trail passing sometimes through narrow bottoms, and at others along the sides of the hills where they touch the river; at 2 p. m., having made fifteen miles, we reached the crossing of the St. Mary's river, and succeeded in fording it without damage save the wetting two or three packs. This is a Iong and difficult ford, and not to be undertaken by any one not well acquainted with it. At this point the trail leading to the Coeur d'Alene mission leaves the St. Mary's and passes up the small stream called by the Catholic missionaries St. Regis Borgia. My guide says that we must encamp here, as there is no water for some distance in advance. The country in the vicinity of our camp is a densely-wooded level of rich soil. One mile below is a much better ford of the St. Mary's than the one we passed over. Several Kootenaies Indians visited camp during the evening; they are well formed Indians, of agreeable features and rather light complexion. They seemed very poor, and I gave them food, and some small articles, as tobacco, fish-hooks, &c. September 24.-There was a heavy frost last night, and a dense fog this morning. Continuing .our journey, we followed a trail leading along a high ridge densely timbered with pine, spruce, and fir, bounding on the north a narrow valley, and running nearly due east and west. In seven miles the trail crosses the valley and passes over a mountain for five miles, where was much fallen timber, and the road generally difficult; but it is evident, by cutting out the timber in the valley of the creek south of this trail, a good road can be found. At the foot of the mountain we crossed two brooks running south, and in one mile more crossed a finee creek ten feet wide, running in the same direction; and in fifteen miles from the St. Mlary's reached St. Borgia river, which is sixty feet wide and two feet deep, with a swift current flowing over a pebbly bottom, and the stream does not appear to be subject to heavy freshets. Following up on the north side for seven miles through small openings and timber of medium growth, chiefly pine, spruce, and hemlock, we encamped where the trail first crosses the river. September 25.-It was raining heavy this morning, but we packed up and started, as I am determined to push ahead. The road crosses the stream frequently, and is altogether generally level difficult for pack animals, on account of thickets of willow and fallen timber: The country continues the same as yesterday, occasional openings occurring, where is found good grass. Passed several lodges of Coeur d'Alene Indians. They urged me to stop and take shelter from 559:

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Title
Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2
Author
United States. War Dept.
Canvas
Page 559
Publication
Washington,: A. O. P. Nicholson, printer [etc.]
1855
Subject terms
Pacific railroads -- Explorations and surveys.
Natural history -- West (U.S.)
Indians of North America -- West (U.S.)
West (U.S.) -- Description and travel.
United States -- Exploring expeditions.

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"Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2." In the digital collection Making of America Books. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/afk4383.0001.002. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 21, 2025.
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