Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

516 FROM BITTER ROOT VALLEY TO FLATHEAD LAKE AND KOOTENAY RIVER.
I also include with these reports two maps of the country explored.
These reports I submit with great satisfaction, as they contribute materially to our knowledge
of the country, and present Lieutenant Mullan as an officer of judgment and enterprise. In a
special report of this date, I have urged that Lieutenant Mullan should be continued on duty in
exploring the country, with which he is now so familiar.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient servant,
ISAAC I. STEVENS,
Governor of Washington Territory.
Hon. JEFFERSON DAVIS,
Secretary of War, Washington, D. C.
REPORT OF LIEUTENANT JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A., OF HIS EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY FROM
THE BITTER ROOT VALLEY TO THE FLATHEAD LAKE AND KOOTENAY RIVER.
CANTONMENT STEVENS, BITTER ROOT VALLEY,
Washington Territory, May 8, 1854.
SIR: Agreeably to your letter of instructions to.continue the exploration of the country between
the Rocky and Bitter Root ranges of mountains, extending as far north as the Flathead lake,
and even the upper waters of Clark's fork of the Columbia, I have the honor to report that I
started from the Bitter Root valley on the 14th of April, to make the said exploration, my
working party consisting of Mr. Adams, assistant; Gabriel, my interpreter; two of y men,
Gates and Sohon, and an Indian boy.
As it was impossible to secure a guide from among the Flathead Indians who knew anything
of the country to the north, it became necessary to visit the Pend d'Oreilles' camp, ill order to
secure a man who could give me some information as to the character of that section. I intended,
after making an examination of the Flathead lake, the character of the Clark's fork at the inlet
and outlet, and its general character north of the lake, to cross the ridge of mountainsto the
west of Clark's fork, striking the Kootenay river, and examine the section of country watered
by that stream and its tributaries which flow from the east and south.
My only knowledge of that region was based upon Mr. Tinkham's reconnaissance along the
Flathead lake to the so called Marias Pass; and this gave me but very little information, as I
had merely a sketch of the Clark's fork and the lake, and no description whatever as to the
character of the broad area from: whence flow the many streams to each of these two large tributaries of the Columbia.
It is true, I had for reference a tracing compiled from information, and a map of our western
territories as comrpiled by the Topographical Bureau in 1850, but I found these so essentially
wrong in detail that I did much better without than with them. I anticipated much trouble from
the high waters of the many streams I should be obliged to cross, but resolved to make the
exploration at this time, or I might be compelled to defer it until late in the summer; and, as the
latter part of this report will show you, we came near paying for it with our lives, for my whole
party was near being drowned while rafting the Hell Gate river.
On account of the high water in the Bitter Root river, which was swimming deep, I followed
down its right bank until reaching the Hell Gate river, on the right bank of which we camped
the second night from Cantonment Stevens. We found the stream much swollen by the melting
of the snow in the mountains, though we crossed it when going towards the north without much
difficulty. My first camp was with Mr. Irwin and some Pend d'Oreilles, who being on their
route to the emigrant road at Fort Hall, lost fifty head of horses, stolen on the 12th of April by
the Blackfeet. Being thus robbed of everything, they were compelled to remain in camp until
they could be befriended.