Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

FROM THE FLATHEAD CAMP TO ST. MARY'S VALLEY.
the morning to hunt, they gave full details as to water, grass, wood, halts, meeting each other,
&c., so fully did they appreciate their position. The night of this day was exceedingly mild and
pleasant; the frost, however, being very heavy, which before morning coated the ground as with
snow.
September 21, 1853.-Commences clear and cool, the thermometer at sunrise being 26~. We
resumed our march, continuing down the valley of Smith's river for a distance of two miles,
when, turning more to the south, we left the river far to our right; and when ascending a
prairie hill, near two hundred and fifty feet high, we could trace its windings though the valley of
the hills for a distance of many miles, still'continuing to flow through a beautiful and charming
valley, receiving tributaries from the mountain slopes on each side. Our course lay till near
noon over a series of undulating prairie hills, having to our left, about three miles distant, a large
tributary of Smith's river, well wooded, and to the south of it a high range of well timbered
mountains, some of the summits of which are covered with snow. The mountains to our right
continue to be very high and well wooded. Near the summit the prairie hills over which we
passed this morning are covered with rock, stones, and pebbles in every direction, which made
travelling difficult for our animals. Game in the valley of these hills we found very abundant,
being principally antelope, but so exceedingly shy as to prevent all possibility of approach.
About 11 a. m. we entered the valley of a small stream turning towards the east, upon which we
nooned, finding here good wood and water, but very poor grass. This valley was one hundred
yards wide, the hills or mountains on each side being about five hundred feet high, and clad with
the pine, growing to a height of sixty feet and perfectly straight. At our noon halt, two of our
Indians who had left us early in the morning returned with seven large mountain trout which they
had caught in Smith's river; these were similar to those of the night previous, but of much larger
size. Our course during the afternoon lay to the south, up a steep mountain five hundred feet
high, which we were compelled to ascend to gain a ridge which we could follow, as the valley
was so obstructed by rocks and brushwood, and so very narrow, that it was perfectly impossible to follow it to its head. When gaining the top of this mountain, nothing was to be
seen save an immense bed of rugged mountains. From the summit of this mountain our course
lay more to the west, over a very excellent road, leading through a thicket for a distance of two
miles, the timber being the pine, hemlock, cedar, and spruce. After passing the thicket referred
to, we came in sight, for the first time, of the main chain of the Rocky mountains, the object of all
our hopes and ambition. These mountains we supposed to be at a distance of near fifty miles,
and reared their lofty heads far into the blue sky in the distance. Our only regret on seeing them
was, that we were not on the west side of them. We had now gained the divide or highest
ridge of the mountain, and now commenced a descent, dangerous both for our animals and ourselves. The mountains which we had to descend in order to reach a valley conducting us to a
valley of the Missouri, was one thousand feet high, with a slope of 65~. This was formed of
dark-blue slate, which in most places was exposed, presenting its rough edges to our horses'
feet, making the travelling very bad and dangerous. We were compelled to dismount; and
wearing nothing but moccasins, it was exceedingly trying to our feet. This slate formation
dipped towards the west at an angle of 45~, the largest strata being from an eighth to half an
inch in thickness. Gaining the base of the mountain, we entered a narrow valley or ravine,
through which flowed a brook or mountain stream, the waters of which ran to the west and
emptied into the Missouri. This valley or ravine was about seventy-five yards wide, which we
followed down for several miles, camping about six miles from the base of the mountain. Here
we found the mountains on each side to be composed of a red slate formation. The mountains on
each side of the gorge have been heavily timbered with the pine, but a fire has lately passed over
them, destroying nearly every tree. Game we still continued to fine very scarce; one of our
Indians, however, succeeded in killing an antelope, which added very materially to our comfort.
The night of this day was exceedingly pleasant.
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