Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

FROM MOUTH OF CLARK'S FORK TO WALLAH-WALLAH.
water it is a perfect torrent. I made a portage along the east bank; the trail was good and
about half a mile in length. Innumerable eddies and whirlpools are seen, which rendered the
navigation in canoes rather precarious. The principal tributaries from the east, and the only one
worthy of mention, was Clark's fork. This noble stream runs through a deep gorge in the range
about a quarter of a mile from the main stream, and has two falls, one near the gorge and one
at its mouth, and empties into the Columbia with a roar. The fall near the gorge is about three
feet in height; that at its mouth fifteen feet, and not more than one hundred and fifty yards
wide. I attempted to ascend the river, but after climbing over the rocks, was satisfied to obtain
a view of the river where it debouches from the range. If the appearance of this pass is a fair
illustration of its bank to the Pend d'Oreille mission, I believe the various reports circulated at
Fort Colville true; to attempt to ascend with canoes, or move with a pack train along the banks,
would be impossible.
The appearance of the country along the east bank of the Columbia, from the mouth of this tributary to within a few miles of Fort Colville, convinces me that the interval between these streams
is a perfect network of mountains. About one mile north of Colville I saw a large stream; its
direction, viewed from the river, was nearly north. Captain McClellan and party approached
the Columbia by its valley. There is also another about six miles north of the Little Dales; this
is a mere rivulet, but at the time of high water it is a large and rapid stream. The main stream
above Clark's fork was much larger than any tributary-has a swifter current, and is much
deeper, but has the same general appearance. A pack trail passes along the next bank of the
river. The mountain spurs present a great obstacle to a wagon road. Upon my return I received
your letter of October 29th, authorizing me to leave before the arrival of Dr. Suckley, and to
proceed along the east bank of Columbia to Fort Wallah-Waltah, by the Grand Coulee, provided
the condition of the animals nwould permit. After a careful inspection, I was convinced that they
required more rest. I consequently remained until the 13th. Astronomical observation taken at
niy camp, near the fort, determined the latitude to be 48~ 3S'. I cannot forget to remember Mr.
McDonald for the disinterested and efficient service rendered on every occasion, and the hospitality extended to myself and brother during my sojourn near his pleasant post. On the eve of
starting on the 13th, I heard of the arrival of Dr. Suckley and party; this, in addition to a violent
hail-storm, induced me to accept the polite invitation of Mr. McDonald, and I quartered my
party at the fort. Finding the Doctor could procure the necessary transportation for the rivertrip,
I left the fort at 2 p. m. on the 14th, and marched eight miles. Leaving Colville the trail has a
southerly direction, and passes over a well-wooded rolling prairie. A range of hills were at from
one-fourth to half a mile distant during the entire day; they are from two hundred to three hundred feet high, and covered with a large growth of pine. The view to the west was intercepted
by a high range of mountains running along the river bank; the soil good, sand and allvium.
About four miles from Colville I crossed a swift running stream, twenty feet wide and six deep.
This stream is called Mill river, from the fact of the Hudson's Bay Company having a grist-mill
near its mouth. The route of the succeeding day was without change. The hills have a gradual
rise to the south, and the general appearance of mountains on the opposite bank the same. Passed
a few lodges near the bank, and saw a number across the river. Their winter store of provision
consists of salmon, which were seen in great abundance suspended from the limbs of trees.
From the camp of the 15th the country was very undulating. The trail passed up hills and
through ravines for twenty miles; it then had a gradual fall towards the upland, near Spokane, and
passed through a steep sandy gorge to the river. The country between my line of march and the
Columbia, which passed out of view about four miles from the trail, was very undulating, and
rendered impassable by deep ravines. Passed three lakes along the trail; the largest, about
twenty miles from the last camp, was three hundred feet long and one hundred wide. It had no
visible outlet. Numerous small streams were passed during the day; timber is still found in great
abundance. My guide having gone in advance to examine the river, found it too high to ford.
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