Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

FROM THE COLUMBIA VALLEY TO FORT OWEN.
Saturday, July 23.-Raised camp at 3 o'clock, and were in march by 7 a. m., and advanced
twenty-five miles tb Willow creek, a small stream among the willows. The day has been
intensely hot; our course was nearly parallel with the Columbia, about seven miles distant. We
met many emigrants from Ohio and Illinois bound for California, Oregon, and Washington; they
appeared wearied and wayworn, and were comforted by our assurance that the Pacific would
soon put a period to their westward land-wandering. They wished us a good speed in our
enterprise as only those hardy pioneers can who have walked over the route from Missouri to the
Pacific States.
Sunday, July 24.-Thermometer at sunrise 61 ~; barometer 29.774. Marched thirty-five miles
over a heath without trees or water to Butter creek. Day intensely hot, and some of our animals
gave out. Butter creek is a fine cold stream, winding through a meadow covered with the most
luxuriant grass. These beautiful streams are the redeeming features of this otherwise sterile
region. I do not know why this is called Butter creek; but when its beautiful and fertile banks
become the pasturage of herds of cattle, with an industrious population, its destiny will be
accomplished, and the appropriateness of its name justified.
Monday, July 25.-Thermnometer 530; barometer 29.544. All hands roused at 3 a.m., but
our animals not having been picketed, had strayed, and much time and labor were spent in col lecting them. The loss of animals by stampedes, and straying, is one of the most annoying inci dents of travel in this region.
In consequence of the great heat we advanced but fifteen miles, and encamped in a pleasant
spot on the banks of the Umatilla river.
Near our camp we were met by a delegation of Cayuse braves, sent by the chief of the Nez
Perces, to ascertain our object in passing through their country. They had been told that we
were coming to make war upon them, and take away their horses. We assured them that such
was not our object; that we had been sent by the great Chief of us all, at Washington, on a
mission of peace to all the Indian tribes on both sides of the mountains, and asked them to invite
their chief to come to our camp, and smoke the pipe of peace with us. In the evening the old
chief came and smoked the pipe of peace with us, promised to be always friendly, and said that
he was glad that our "hearts were good." The Nez Perces are a rich and powerful tribe, and
own a great many horses. They cross the mountains yearly to hunt buffalo on the plains of the
Missouri. They have a much shorter route to St. Mary's village, but it is too mountainous for us
to take. The Bitter Root range of mountains between this and St. Mary's presents too great
obstacles to the construction of a railroad. It is, therefore, necessary for us to go to the northward by the northern shore of Lake Kalispel. At this place we leave the emigrant trail, where
it turns off towards the South Pass.
Tuesday, July 26.-Thermometer at sunrise, 62~; barometer, 29.684. Started at 2 a.m., on
account of the indications of an extremely hot day before us; marched twenty mniles, and
encamped on the Columbia, within ten miles of Wallah-Wallah. It has been the hottest day of
the season; men and animals suffered severely. Twelve miles of our route was over burning
sands, destitute of vegetation; the animals sunk deeply into it at every step; its temperature was
found to be, in several places, 150~; one of the mules gave out, and a poor tired horse tumbled
over a precipice; his pack being of heavier material than his body, followed the law of gravitation, and came first to the ground, leaving the animal with his feet sticking in the air. He was
assisted to regain his proper position, and quietly proceeded on his journey, his looks manifestly
indicating his resignation to any fate that might befall him.
The pioneer who explores this interesting region must be prepared for all sorts of discouragement. Its vast desert wastes, dense forests, snow-capped mountains, and deep ravines, are
obstacles which will call for all his energies and the exercise of his whole stock of philosophy.
Here he will find himself surrounded by the grandest tokens of those mighty convulsions of nature
which heaved up to the skies the ancient ocean beds.
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