Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

NAVIGABILITY OF THE MISSOURI.
Most of the wood now used on the boat was cut by the crew. She ran about a mile an hour
faster than usual when using wood thus procured, as in that case the best quality was obtained.
Above Council Bluff city I observed many extensive tracts of dead trees standing, and which
I thought must have been killed by fires. They were cut for fuel for the boat whenever practicable.
On the 4th of June we passed Old Council Bluffs, a place which was once occupied as a
military post. We found the current very rapid at about four o'clock on this day; and, in
attempting to proceed, broke part of the boat's machinery, which compelled us to halt for the
night. We were obliged to stop alongside of a low prairie on the right bank, where there was
nothing to afford a fastening. The flukes of several anchors had to be sunk in the ground in
order to effect a mooring. While here, there was much to be dreaded in case of the occurrence
of one of those terrible storms which sometimnes sweep over this portion of country. At this
place we were, for the first time since our departure from St. Louis, troubled with mosquitos. On
the night of the 4th the boat was much shaken by the striking of large floating trees against it.
On the 5th we passed a forest on the left bank, which displayed in a very striking manner the
ruinous effects of a Missouri river tornado. The largest trees had been torn asunder-some near
their roots, some near their middle-and their trunks had been literally twisted, as if it had been
done by a whirlwind.
The soil of the bottoms on this part of the river is very rich.
The Little Sioux river, which we passed on the 5th, is about sixty yards wide at its mouth, and
is said to be navigable for small steamboats for ten miles to rapids, these being susceptible of
improvement. It drains a country which has not many resources.
On the 6th we halted for wood at an island on the left bank, near which occurs the only settlement to be met with on the river between Council Bluff city and Sergeant's hill.
Just opposite is a spot called Pelican island, from the fact of its being a great resort for pelicans.
We here first met with this species of fowl. The island received its name from Lewis and Clark,
I believe, on account of their having noticed the same fact.
The settlement last mentioned is about eighty miles by land from Council Bluff city, and about
forty-five miles from Sergeant's hill. In the afternoon we passed Wood's hill, where the bluffs on
the right bank are close to the river for three-quarters of a mile. A rapid which occurs here
is of about that length. The river was about four hundred yards wide at Wood's hill, while at the
bend, which occurs where the hill above begins to diverge from the river, it was about half a mile
wide.
We halted on the night of the 6th on the left bank, just opposite Blackbird's hill. This is
about three hundred feet high, and is surmounted by a mound, which marks the spot where
was buried the famous Omaha chief, Blackbird. We found the current very rapid near this
hill. I noticed along here many avenues through the woods, each of which must have been
formerly a channel of the river.
With reference to the changes which are always taking place in the Missouri, and which, being
greater from near the Big Sioux to Independence prairie than on any other part of the river,
make this the most dangerous section for navigation, I will quote here the observations I made
at the time of performing the voyage: "Those changes which are constantly taking place in the
bed of the Missouri, and in the direction of its channel, are well known. It would be very
desirable to ascertain the general facts in relation to them, such as the periods of time within which
they take place in a certain direction, the causes, &c., for upon these might be based the best plan
for the improvement at some points of the river, or at any rate the knowledge might render the
navigation much more safe than it is now. Besides, of what immense advantage would it be to
settlers, who might thus know the portion of the numerous fertile spots open to their occupation
not liable to destruction by the river. I have noticed, up to this day, many indications of these
changes, in both directions, and it is probable they are constantly taking place at alternate pnoints
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