Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION.
On the 27th September we reached Fort Okinakane, and encamped on the Okinakane river,
about one and a half mile from the fort, and not far above the site of Astor's old trading-house.
The fort consists of three log buildings, surrounded by a stockade in the form of a square, with
block-houses at the extremities of one diagonal. But little business is now transacted here. It is
in charge of Mr. Lafleur, the "garrison" consisting of two Kanakas. The post is situated on the
river bank, and on the edge of the plain between the Okinakane and the Columbia. Neither grass,
nor bushes, nor trees are to be found around the fort-nothing but bare sand and gravel; it is
evidently located with a view to the convenience of passing boats, and with no reference to the
comfort of its unfortunate occupants.
Riding with Mr. Lafleur to the summit of the mountain behind the fort, I obtained a good
view of the Cascade range. The mountains came down to the Columbia and Okinakane, crossing the latter, and all rough and sharp. Mr. Lafleur informed me that there was no pass
between Mt. Baker and the Hudson's Bay Company's trail from Okinakane to l~angley. This
our subsequent examination verified. The information received here confirmed me in my previous intention of examining the Methow river, for they told me there was a good foot trail leading up that valley and over to the sound.
Leaving some of our most fatigued animals and many of our loads to the care of Mr. Lafleur,
we left the camp on the morning of the 28th. On the 30th we encamped upon the Twitsp,
the south fork of the Methow. I was by this time quite certain that this route would not answer
for a railways but determined to keep on upon the same trail myself until the question could be
fairly settled. Lieut. Duncan was directed to return to the forks with the main party, and to
examine the main stream with a small party, following it as far as it was practicable. On the
31st I followed the valley of the Twitsp about four miles above our camp; here the stream
forked, the north fork rising a few miles farther on in a high, bare ridge of granlitic mountains;
the south fork, Nahai-el-ix-on, coming down a narrow and precipitous ravine. Our trail led up
this ravine.
Before proceeding much farther the valley became impassable for animals. I then went forward on tbot until there was no longer any doubt as to the impracticability of the route. The
barometrical profile will indicate the results.
The trail is said to pass from this ravine, over a very difficult country, to the stream emptying
into the head of Lake Chelan, then to cross very steep and lofty mountains at the head of that
stream, and finally to reach the Skagitt river on the western slope.
The results of Lieutenant Duncan's reconnaissance were equally unfavorable. On the 4th
of October we reached Fort Okinakane, returning by the valley of the Methow to its mouth.
During both o()ur visits to Fort Okinakane we were treated with the greatest kindness by Mr.
Lafleur, and we are under many obligations to him for his courtesy.
On the 5th October we left Fort Okinakane, followed the valley of the Okinakane river, and
on the 9th reached our most northern camp, about thirteen miles south of the "Great Lake," in
latitude 49~ 26'; the weather, unfortunately, did not permit observations at this point, so that the
latitude could not be determined with exactness. From its mouth to the forks the Okinakane
valley is generally a wide one; in a few places it so much contracted as to force the trail over
spurs, but as a general rule we passed over wide terraces. The soil is light, the grass generally
good, and no timber in the valley. There is a fall of inconsiderable height thirty miles above
the mouth; quite a number of rapids occur, but they are seldom bad. No stream of any consequence enters the Okinakane from either side below the forks; so that there is no possibility of
there being any pass through the mountains between the Methow and the Millakitekwu, (the
west fork,) especially as the mountains become very high and rugged a short distance back
from the valley.
The Millakitekwu may be said to have no valley; for it runs through an immense ravine, with
a canon of great depth bounding the bed of the stream. Its nature is such as to render it
197