Travels in the United States, etc.,: during 1849 and 1850./ By the Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley.

AN ACCIDINT. Q8
indeed-but enough to admit of fields of Indian corn and arroz
(rice), and plantain-walks. There were some beautifully shaped
hills to be seen rising near the river-banks. One seemed particularly high: it was, as all the rest are, like the rising sun, steeped
in molten gold, and panoplied in a pomp of exuberant growths,
among which were seen gloriously towering trees, all over-canopied
and buried under hanging gardens in the air, of myriad-hued
flowers, quite disturbing the quiet, sultry atmosphere with beauty.
But, partly in consequence of our boatmen having spent an unconscionable time at their dinner, partly arising from our not
having started as early as we should have done, owing to my
extreme sleepiness after the night of torment the ants and musquitoes had given me, we were late: the evening began to grow
dusky, the splendid living illumination of fire-flies commenced, and
we were told it was necessary to stop at San Pablo, which was
not a very prepossessing-looking place.
We were collecting together our carpet-bags, calabashes, and
lighter luggage, when V forgetting for a moment how easily
these cayucas are upset, though we had repeatedly been cautioned
to move very carefully (and the boat had as nearly as possible
been tilted over before, and had been almost filled with water),*
jumped up very suddenly, and over went the boat. It righted,
however, again; but she fell in the water, which was luckily not
deep there, and, after a little delay, she scrambled into the canoe
again, being helped by an American gentleman, who, seeing what
had happened, instantly rushed to the spot, and, plunging into the
water, rescued her. The danger was not of drowning, but of
alligators.
We clambered up the steep precipitous bank which led to the
collection of hovels called San Pablo, looking as we followed the
clerk and others to the little village, like a damp procession of
naiades learning to be amphibious-for the boat had been completely deluged with water. The huts were very poor ones, but
we succeeded in getting a pretty comfortable one, detached from
the rest, and where the good people lighted us a fire to dry our
clothes. We were very glad to have a little supper after this,
and disposed ourselves for rest, after receiving a visit from the
mistress of the huts, who was attired in a singular fashion. She
had an immense shock-head of hair, grizzled till it seemed powder
* An officer of the English navy, Capt. Foster of H. M. S. Chanticleer,
was drowned here by such an accident. The boat was, however, of course,
in the middle of the river.
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AN ACCLDF-NT.
289