Dictionary of Greek and Roman antiquities. Ed. by William Smith. Illustrated by numerous engravings on wood.

COENA.'COENA.'Ju7
And on the same occasion, the whole diimer, which of a sow served up in milk (sunhen, Ibid. Ep. 44),
consisted of vegetables, was served up on a single the flitch of bacon (petaso, Ep. 55), the womb of
platter (v. 2). a sow (cvlva, Ep. 56), are all mentioned by
To r turn to our description, the dinner usually Martial. Boar's flesh and venison were also in
consisted of three courses: first, the lroomulsis or high repute, especially the former, described by
anlecoena (Cic. ad Fain. ix. 20), called also yugstatio Juvenal (Sat. i. 141) as animnal propter conviviao
(Petron. Sat. 31), made up of all sorts of stimu- naturi. Condiments were added to most of
lants to the appetite, such as those described by these dishes: such were the sunria, a kind of
Horace (Sat. il. 8. 9), pickle made from the tunny fish (Mart. xiii. 103);
" Rapula, lactucae, radices, qualia lassum the garsin sociorumz, made from the intestines of
Pervellunt stomachum, siser, alec, faecula Coa." the maclerel (scomber), so called because Iwought
from abroad; alec, a sort of brine; Ahex, the sedi,
Eggs also (Cic. ad Farin. ix. 20; Hor. Sat. i. 3. 6) ment of wine, &c., for the receipts of which we
-were so indispensable to the first course that must again refer the reader to Catius's learned
they almost gave a name to it (ab ovo Usque ad instructor. (Hor. Scat. ii. 4.) Several kinds of
snala). In the prooeulsis of Trimalchio's supper fiszyi (Ibid. v. 20) are mentioned, trufles (boleti),
(Petron. 31) - probably designed as a satire on mushrooms (tuberes), which either made dishes by
the emperor Nero - an ass of Corinthian brass is themselves, or formed th, garniture for larger dishes.
introduced, bearing two panniers, one of white, It must not be supposed that the artistes of iamtle other of black olives, covered with two large perial Rome were at all behind ourselves in the
dishes inscribed with Trimalchio's name. Next preparation and arrangements of the table. In a
come dormice (yliUes) on small bridges sprinkled large household, the functionaries to whom this
with poppy-seed and honey, and hot sausages (tomca- important part of domestic economy was entrusted
clia) on a silver gridiron (craticula), with Syrian were four, the butler (prosmsis), the cook (arc/iprunes and pomegranate berries underneath. These, m7nairus), the arranger of the dishes (structor),
however, were imperial luxuries; the frugality of and the carver (carptor or scissor). Carving was
Martial only allowed of lettuce and Sicenian olives; taught as an art, and, according to Petronius (35,
indetd he himself tells us that the prowzsulsis was 36), performed to the sound of nmusic, with approa refinement of modern luxury (Ep. xiii. 14. 1). priate gesticulations (Juv. Sat. v. 121),
Macrobins (Sat. ii. 9) has left an authentic record Nec minimo sane discrimine refert
of a coesa pontiflcures (see Hor. Cain. ii. 14. 28),
Quo vultu lepores et quo gallilia secetur."
given by Lentulus on his election to the office of
flamen, in which the first course alone was made In the supper of Petronius, a large round tray
up of the following dishes: — Several kinds of (ferculumn, repositorium) is brought in, with the
shell-fish (eclini, ostreaec crudae, pelorides, sponlyli, signs of the zodiac figured all round it, upon each
glcoinarides, zsurices purpurae, bhalani albi et of which the artiste (structor) had placed some apniyri), thrushes, asparagus, a fatted hen (gallina propriate viand, a goose on Aquarius, a pair of
altilis), beceaficoes (ficezdale), nettles (urticae), scales with tarts (scriblitae) and cheesecakes (plathe haunches of a goat and wild boar (lusbi capra. centae) in each scale on Libra, &c. In the middle
gini, aprygsi), rich imeats mlade into pasties (altilia was placed a hive supported by delicate herbage.
iv fJrina sl ioluta), many of which are twice re- Presently four slaves come forward dancing to the
peated in the inventory. sound of music, and take away the upper part of
It would far exceed the limits of this work even the dish; beneath appear all kinds of dressed
to mention all the dishes which formed the second meats; a hare with wings, to imitate Pegasus,
course of a Roman dinner, which, whoever likes, in the' middle; and four figures of Marsyas at the
may find minutely described in Bulengerus. (De corners0 pouring hot sauce (gaurunz piperatumz) over
Conviviis, ii. and iii.) 0 birds, the Guinea hen the fish, that were swimming in the Euripus be(Afa avis), the pheasant (phasiana, so called from low. So entirely. had the Romans lost all shame
Phasis, a river of Colchis), and the thrush, were of luxury, since the days when Cincius, ill supportmost in repute; the liver of a capon steeped in ing the Fannian law, charged his own age with
milk (Pliny), and beccaficoes (ficedill(e) dressed the enormity of introducing the porcus Trojn2sus
with pepper, were held a delicacy. (Mart. iii. 5.) (a sort of pudding stuffed with the flesh of other
The peacock, according to Macrobius (Sat. ii. 9), animals, Macrob. Sat. ii. 2).
was first introduced by Hortensius the orator, at The bellaria or dessert, to which Horace alludes
an inaugural supper, and acquired such repute when he says of Tigellius ab ovo Usque ad smala
among the Roman gourmands as to be com- citaret, consisted of fruits (which the Romans
mouly sold for fifty denarii. Other birds are usually ate uncooked), such as almonds (amcyigdlae),
mentioned, as the duck (anas, Mart. xiii. 52'), dried grapes (uvae passae), dates (palsbnulae, laryoespecially its head and breast; the woodcock tae, dctySi); of sweetmeats and confections, called
(attagen), the turtle, and flamingo (phoenicopterns, edulia snellita, dulciariat such as cheesecakes (eziMart. xiii. 71), the tongue of which, Martial tells pediae, crustula, liba, placentae, artologani), almond
us, especially commended itself to the delicate cakes (coptae), tarts (scrilitae), whence the maker
palate. Of fish, the variety was perhaps still of them was called pistor dulciarius, placentarius,
greater: the charr (scarus), the turbot (lshomibus), fis6bizs, &c.
the sturgeon (acipenser), the mullet (smulltus), We will now suppose the table spread and the
were highiy prized, and dressed in the most guests assembled, each with his maCppa or napkin
various fashions. In the banquet of Nasidienus, (Mart. xii. 29), and in his dinner dress, called
an eel is brought, garnished with prawns swim- coenatoria or cubitoria, usually of a bright colour
ming in the sauce. (Mart. Xenia, xiii.) Of solid (Petron. c. 21), and variegated with flowers. First
meat, pork seems to have been the favourite dish, they took off their shoes for fear of soiling the
especially sucking-pig (Mart. xiii. 41);.the paps couch (Mart. iii. 30), which was often inlaid with
x.. 2..2....