Dictionary of Greek and Roman antiquities. Ed. by William Smith. Illustrated by numerous engravings on wood.

TUNICA. TUNICA. 1173
It seems impossible to determine with certainty part of the breast uncovered, whence it is called
whether the Diploidion formed part of the Chiton, $St/sis, a representation of which is given on p. 512.
or was a separate piece of dress. Those writers When the sleeves of the Chiton reached down to
who maintain the former view, think that it is the hands, it seems to have been properly called
quite proved by the left-hand figure in the pre- XeiPIo&or'S (Gell. vii. 12, see woodcut, p. 329),
ceding cut; but this is not conclusive evidence, though this word seems to have been frequently
since the Chiton may have terminated at the waist. used as equivalent to dialptdcrXaAos. (Hesych. s. v.
In the right-hand figure we see that the Chiton is'Auppta'e-XaXaos.)
girded round the middle of the body, as described A XrTw, dpOo0d-Tlos was one which was not
above, and that the fold which overhangs (ico'Xros) fastened round the body with a girdle (Pollux, vii.
forms, with the end of the Diploidion, a parallel 48; Phot. aex. p. 346,: Pors.): a XL-V'v Or-oAhswline, which was always the case. This is also Tod seems to have had a kind of flounce at the
plainly seen in the woodcut to the article UsaBRA- bottom. (Pollux vii.. 54; Xenoph. Cyrop. vi. 4.
CULUM. Since the Diploidion was fastened over ~ 2.)
the shoulders by means of buckles or clasps, it was On the subject of the Greekl Chiton in general,
called srw,uis, which Miiller (Arcliiol. d.. Kunst, see Miiller, Doricans, iv. 2. ~ 3, 4, Archlioloyie der
~ 339. 4) supposes from Eurip. ilecub. 553, and KIunst, ~ 337, 339; Becker, Charikles, vol. ii.
Athen. xiii. p. 608, b, to have been only the end of p. 309, &c.
the garment fastened on the shoulder; but these 2. ROuMAN. The Tunica of the Romans, like
passages do not necessarily prove this, and Pollux the Greek Chiton, was a woollen under garment,
(vii. 49) evidently understands the word as mean- over which the Toga was worn. It was the Induing a garment itself. menrizln or Indutus, as opposed to the A2siclus, the
Besides the word XtLT'v, we also meet with the general term for the toga, pallium, or any other
diminutives XL7-WVLKcos and XtrCSvi'ov, the former of outer garment. [AMIcTUS.] The Romans are
which is generally applied to a garment worn by said to have had no other clothing originally but
men, and the latter to one worn by women, though the toga; and when the Tunic was first introduced,
this distinction is not always preserved. A ques- it was merely a short garment without sleeves, and
tion arises whether these two words relate to a dif- was called Colobium. (Gell. vii. 12; Serv. ad Vi)V.
ferent garment from the Chiton, or mean merely a Aen. ix. 616.) It was considered a mark of effesmaller one. Many modern writers think that the minacy for men to wear Tunics with long sleeves
Chiton was not worn immediately next the skin, (manicatae) and reaching to the feet (tcalaees).
but that there was worn. under it a shirt (Xrweoie- (Cic. Cat. ii. 10.) Julius Caesar was accustomed
Kcot) or chemise (Xmrov'IO,). In the dress of men, to wear one which had sleeves, with fringes at the
however, this does not appear to have been the wrist (ad nsansus fimbriata, Suet. Jul. 45), and in
case; since we find XLTrwvbKos frequently used as the later times of the empire, tunics with sleeves,
identical with xrrcsv, and spoken of as the only and reaching to the feet, became common.
under garment worn by individuals. (To (s~dsro'o icai The Tunic was girded (cincta) with a belt or
Trl'd XLTWY'torcov, Plat. Hipp. Min. p. 368; Dem. in girdle around the waist, but was usually worn
Mid. p. 583. 21; Aesch. in Tim. p. 143; Athen. loose, without being girded, when, a person was at
xii. p. 545, a.) It appears, on the contrary, that home, or wished to be at his ease. (Hor. Sat. ii.
females were accustomed to wear a chemise (X-cv'- 1. 73; Ovid, Am. i. 9. 41.) Hence we find the
viov) unllder their Chiton, and a representation of terms cinctus, praecinctus, and succinctus, applied,
such an one is given in p. 185. (Compare Athen. like the Greek eo',voos, to an active and diligent
xiii. p. 590, f.; Aristoph. Lysisr. 48, 150.) person, and discincths to one who was idle or dissoIt was the usual practice among the Greeks to lute. (Hor. Sat. i. 5. 6, ii. 6. 107, Epod. i. 34.)
wear an Himation, or outer garment, over the The form of the Tunic, as worn by men, is reChiton, but frequently the Chiton was worn alone. presented in many woodcuts in this work. In
A person who wore only a Chiton was called /jovo- works of art it usually terminates a little above the
XiTV, (oloxiTrov in Homer, Od. xiv. 489), an knee; it has short sleeves, covering only the upper
epithet given to the Spartan virgins, as explained part of the arm, and is girded at the waist (see
above. In the same- way, a person who wore only cuts, pp. 90, 808): the sleeves sometimes, though
an Himation, or outer garment, was called axrowv,. less frequently, extend to the hands (cut, p. 141).
(Xen. Meom. i. 6. ~ 2; Aelian, V. HI. vii. 13; Both sexes usually wore two tunics, an outer
Diod. Sic. xi. 26.) The Athenian youths, in the and an under, the latter of which was worn next
earlier times, wore only the Chiton, and when it the skin, and corresponds to our shirt and chebecame the fashion, in the Peloponnesian war, to mise. Varro (ap. Non. xiv. 36) says, that when
wear an outer garment over it, it rwas regarded as the Romans began to wear two tunics, they called
a mark of effeminacy. (Aristoph. Nub. 964, corm- them Subucula and Indusiusm, the former of which
pared with 987.) Bottiger (Sabina, vol. ii. p. 113) supposes to be the
Before passing on to the Roman under garment, name of the under tunic of the men, and the latter
it remains to explain a few terms which are ap- of that of the women. But it would appear fiom
plied to the different kinds of Chiton. In later another passage of Varro (L. L. v. 131, ed. Miiller)
times, the Chiton worn by men was of two kinds, referred to by Becker (Gallus, vol. ii. p. 89), as if
the &-ajppdoiexaAos and the E'lvpoudo-XsaXos, the Varro had meant to give the name of S&bucula to
former the dress of freemen, the latter that of slaves. the under tunic, and that of Indusium or Iintusium
(Pollux, vii. 47.) The dacp(uYdoxasXos appears to to the outer, though the passage is not without difhave signified not only a garment which had two ficulties. It appears, however, that Subucula was
sleeves, but also one which had openings for both chiefly used to designate the under tunic of men.
arms; while the &rTpod cXaehos, on the contrary, (Suet. Aug. 82; Hor. Epist. i. 1. 95.) The word
had only a sleeve, or rather an opening for the interuzla was of later origin, and seems to have apleft arm, leaving the right, with the shoulder and a plied equally to the under tunic of both sexes,
4 F 3