Dictionary of Greek and Roman antiquities. Ed. by William Smith. Illustrated by numerous engravings on wood.

1102 TELA. TELONES.
object; and, although they adopted into their own manner of inserting them into the warp. The
lang.uage the Greek word plectrunm (Ovid. AMet. xi. terms bilix and 31tsLros, the origin of which has
167-170), they used the Latin PECTEN to denote been explained, probably denoted what we call
the same thing, not because the instrument used dimlity or tweeled cloth, and the Germans zwillich.
in striking the lyre was at all like a comb in shape The poets apply trilixc which in German has beand appearance, but because it was held in the come drillicl, to a kind of armour, perhaps chainright hand anld inserted between the stamina of the mail, no doubt resembling the pattern of cloth,
lyre as the comb was between the stamina of the which was denoted by the same term. (Virg.
loom. (Virg. Aen. vi. 647; Juv. vi. 290-293; Aen. iii. 467, v. 259, vii. 639, xii. 375; Val.
Pers. vi. 2.) Flaccus, iii. 199.) In the preceding figure of the
After enumerating those parts of the loom which Icelandic loom the three rods with their leashes
-were necessary to produce even the plainest piece indicate the arrangement necessary.for this texture.
of cloth, it remains to describe the methods of pro- All kinds of damask were produced by a very
ducing its varieties, and more especially of adding complicated apparatus of the same kind (plurimis
to its value by making it either warmer and svter, liciis), and were therefore called Polymita. (Plin.
or more rich and ornamental. If the object was to HI. N. viii. 48. s. 74; Mart. xiv. 1] 50.)
produce a checked pattern (sctZelis dividere, Plin. The sprigs or other ornaments produced in the
H. N. viii. 48. s. 74; Juv. ii. 97), or to weave texture at regular intervals were called flowers
what we should call a Scotch plaid, the threads of (&ivO0, Philostr. Izmag. ii. 28; pspova, Hoem. II. xxii.
the warp were arranged alternately black and 440) or feathers (plumnae). Another term, adopted
white, or of different colours in a certain series with reference to the same machinery, was EitLcLaccording to the pattern which was to be exhibit- rov or EdiaJLTov, denoting velvet. In the middle
ed. On the other hand, a striped pattern (pa~cow- ages it became adLsstor, and thus produced the
Tos, Diod. Sic. v. 30; virgata sagula, Virg. Aen. German samzneet.
viii. 660) was produced by using a warp of one The Fates are sometimes mentioned by classical
colour only, but changing at regular intervals the writers in a manner very similar to the description
colour of the woof. Of this kind of cloth the Ro- of "the Fatal Sisters" above referred to. (Dirca
man trabea (Virg. Aen. vii. 188) was an example. sororum licia, Stat. Ach7ill. i. 520; fctorum 4iiexChecked and striped goods were, no doubt, in the tricabiliter contorta licia, Apul. Met. xi.)
first instance, produced by combining the natural As far as we canl form a judgment from the lanvarieties of wool, white, black, brown, &c. [PAL- guage and descriptions of ancient authors, the proI.ITM.] The woof also was the medium, through ductions of the loom appear to have fallen in anwhich almost every other diversity of appearance cient times very little, if at all, below the beauty
and quality was effected. The warp as mentioned and variety of the damasks, shawls, and tapestry
above was generally more twisted, and consequently of the present age, and to have vied with the
stronger and firmer than the -woof: and with a works of the most celebrated painters, representing
view to the same object different kinds of wool first mythological, and afterwards scriptural subwere spun for the warp and for the woof. The jects. In addition to the notices of particular
consequence was, that after the piece was woven, works of this class, contained in the passages and
the fuller drew out its nap by carding, so as to articles' which have been already referred to, the
make it like a soft blanket (Plato, Polit. p. 302) following authors may be consulted for accounts of
[FULLO]; and, when the intention was to guard some of the finest specimens of weaving: Euripid.
against the cold, the warp was diminished and the Ion, 190-202,1141-1165;Aristot. Mir. Auscult.
woof or nap (sKPs, KrpOVS) made more abundant 99; Athen. xii. p. 541; Asterii, onomilia de Div.
in proportion. (Hesiod. Op. et Dies, 537; Proclus et Laz.; Theod. Prodrom. RhZod. et Dos. Amor. ad
ad loc.) In this manner they made the soft fin.; Virg. Aen. v. 250-257, Cir. 21-35; Ovid.
XAal/a or LAENA [PALLIUM]. On the other l3Iet. vi. 61-128; Stat. T/leb. vi. 64, 540-547;
hand a woof of finely twisted thread ( zrpsov) pro- Auson. Epig. 26; Lamprid. Heliog. 28; Claudian,
duced a thin kind of cloth, which resenbled our de VI. Conss.. Honor. 561-577, in;SStilich. ii. 330buntine (lacernae nimia subteminnum tenuilate per- 365. [J. Y.1
slabiles, Amm. Marcell. xiv. 6). Where any kind TELAMO'NES. [ATLANTEs.]
of cloth was enriched by the admixture of different TE'LETAE (eXet-ra). [MYSTERIA.]
materials, the richer and more beautiful substance TELO'NES (TeAC;Sv1s). Most of the taxes at
always formed part of the woof. Thus the vestis Athens were farmed by private persons, who took'
sabserica, or tr-amoserica, had the train of silk. upon themselves the task of collecting, and mades
[SERICUM.] In other cases it was of gold (Virg. periodical payments in respect' thereof to the state.
Aen. iii. 483; Servius in loc.); of wool dyed with They were called by the general name of'eAcLVal,
Tyrian purple (Ovid. VIfet. vi. 578; Tyrio subteg- while the farmers of any particular tax -were called
smine, Tibull. iv. 1. 122; picto slbteymine, Val. Flacc. escoorCowat, 7revTs7scr,oToAoyoL, &c.,as the case might
vi. 228); or of beavers'-wool (vestis fibrina, Isid. be. The duties were let by auction to the highest
Orig. xix. 22). Hence the epithets )oieIrd'rpoios, bidder. Companies often took them in. the name
"having a purple woof" (Pind. 01. vi. 39,: ed. of one person, who was called dpXdvc-s or -reAcwrEickh; Schol. in loc.), dvOoscpdKos, " producing a dpXrls, and was their representative to the state.
flowery woof" (Furip. Hec. 466), XpvUooErnv,'-ros, Sureties were required of the farmer for the pay" made from bobbins or pens of gold thread" ment of his dues. The office was frequently under(Eurip. Orest. 829), eutrsvos, c" made with good taken: by resident aliens, citizens not liking it, on
bobbins" (Eurip. Iph. in Taur. 814, 1465)1 KIEPKils account of the vexatious proceedings to which it
rolciXXo6aa, "variegating with the comb." (Eurip. often led. The farmer was armed with consilph. in Taut. 215), &c. derable powers; he carried with him his books,
But besides the variety of materials constituting searched for contraband or uncustomed goods,
the woof, an endless diversity was effected by the watched the harbour, markets and other places, to