Dictionary of Greek and Roman antiquities. Ed. by William Smith. Illustrated by numerous engravings on wood.

1100 TELA. TELA.
of Hera, and to be preserved in her temple. (Paus. cut, and compare Aen. vii. 14: apeud majores stantea
v. 16. ~ 2-4, vi.24. ~ 8.) [HERAEA.] A similar texebant, Servius in loc.; Heom. Od. x. 222.) Al.
college at Sparta was devoted to the purpose of though the upright loom here exhibited was in
weaving a tunic every year for the sitting statue common use, and employed for all ordinary purof the Amyclean Apollo, which was thirty cubits poses, the practice, now generally adopted, of
high. (Paus. iii. 16. ~ 2, 19. ~ 2.) At Athens placing the warp in an horizontal position was octhe company of virgins called ipynacrr'7aL or ipyaicym, casionlally resorted to in ancient times; for the
and doppcpnJ'pot, who were partly of Asiatic extrac- upright loom (slans tela, 0r-Tos pOmLos), the managetion, wove the shawl which was carried in the Pa- ment of which required the female to stand and
nathenaic procession and which represented the move about, is opposed to another kind at which
battle between the gods and the giants. (Eurip. she sat. (Artemidor. iii. 36; Servius, 1. c.)
Hec. 461-46.9; Vlrg. Ciris, 21 —35.) [ARRaaHE- We observe in the preceding woodcut about the
PHOR1A; PANATHENAEA.] Asimilar occupation middle of the apparatus -a transverse rod passing
was assigned to young females of the highest rank through the warp. A straight cane was well
at Argos. (Eurip. Iplp. in Taus. 213-215.) In adapted to be so used, and its application is clearly
the fourth century the task of weaving began to expressed by Ovid in the words " stamen secernit
be transferred in Europe from women to the other arundo." (lliet. vi. 55.) In plain weaving it was
sex, a change which St. Chrysostom deplores as a inserted between the threads of the warp so as to
sign of prevailing sloth and effeminacy. (Orat, 34. divide them into two portions, the threads on one
vol. iii. p. 470, ed. Saville.) Vegetius (de Re Il1il. side of the rod alternating with those on the other
i. 7), who wrote about the same time, mentions side throughout the whole breadth of the warp.
linteones, or the manufacturers of linen cloth, in the The two upright beams supporting the jugum, or
number of those who were ineligible as soldiers. transverse beam, from which the warp depends,
Every thing woven consists of two essential parts, were called KehAefres (Theocrit. xviii. 34), and
the warp and the woof, called in Latin Stcamen and lor7droaes, literally, " the legs of the loom." (EusSmbteynmecz, Subtemen, or Tranma (Vitruv. x. 1; tath. in Homn. Od. xiii. 107.)
Ovid. lMet, iv. 397; Plin. H. N. xi. 24. s. 28; Whilst the improvements in machinery have to
Pers. Sat. vi 73), in Greek aT7/etcov and Kcpoec. a great extent superseded the use of the upright
(Plato, Polit. pp. 297, 301, 302, ed. Bekker; loom in all other parts of Europe, it remains almost
Aelian, H. A. ix. 17; Plut. de Is. et Osir. p. in its primitive state in Iceland. The following
672.) Instead of KPOKC Plato (Leg. v. p. 386, woodcut is reduced from an engraving of the Iceed. Bekker) sometimes uses Epnqto, and in the landic loom in Olaf Olafsen's Econosmic Tour in
passages referred to he mentions one of the most that island, published in Danish at Copenhagen,
important differences between the warp and the' A. D. 1780. We observe underneath the jugum a
woof: viz. that the threads of the former are strong roller (dMlov, Pollux, vii. x. ~ 36; Eustath. in
and firm in consequence of being more twisted in lirom. Od. xiii. 107) which is turned by a handle,
spinning. whilst those of the latter are compara- and on which the web is wound as the work adtively soft and yielding. This is in fact the diffe- vances. The threads of the warp, besides being
rence which in the modern silk manufacture dis- separated by a transverse rod or plank, are divided
tingmuishes orannzine from tram, and in the cotton into thirty or forty parcels, to each of which a
manufacture twist from weft. Another name for stone is suspended for the purpose of keeping the
the woof or tram was po3da'v. (Hom. Batr. 181; warp in a perpendicular position and allowing the
Eustath. in Horn. Il. xxiii. 762, Od. v. 121.) necessary play to the strokes of the spatha, which
The warp was called stamen in Latin (from is drawn at the side of tile loom. The mystical
stare) on account of its erect posture in the loom. ode written about the eleventh century of our era,
(Varro, L. L. v. 113, ed. Miiller.) The corresponding Greek term Cars7T ao and likewise Lato's have
evidently the same derivation. For the same reason the very first operation in weaving was to set
up the loom, ionIV cro-T'aaoOma (Hom. Od. ii. 94;
Hesiod, Op. et Dies, 779); and the web or cloth,
before it was cut donwn or "descended" from the( (
loom (Kac'ea dp' lo0"c, Theocrit. xv. 35), was o -
called'"vestis pendens," or "pendula tela" (Ovid,
Mlet. iv. 395, Epist. i. 10), because it hung from
the transverse beam or JUaGUmc. These particulars
are all clearly exhibited in the picture of Circe's
loom, which is contained in the very ancient illuminated MS. of Virgil's Aeneid preserved at Rome
in the Vatican Library. (See the annexed wood- c _./ —c - —;_'!tir i~