Sketches of the campaign in northern Mexico : in eighteen hundred forty-six and seven / by an officer of the First Regiment of Ohio volunteers.

270 VISIT TO SALTILLO.
played upon the sides of the building, or grouped around
the various shrines, representing the Virgin, our Saviour,
and sundry saints, both native and foreign, "our Lady of
Guadaloupe " having as usual a conspicuous place. To all
of these, the artists had given the the dark complexion of the
M/Iexicans, and which pious fraud, it has been remarked, " is
intended to flatter the race for the good of their souls."
There are no pews in their churches, and an American, even
an American Catholic, as he strolls through them, finds it
difficult to divest himself of the idea that he is examining a
museum or picture-gallery. But when in the performance
of some religious ceremony, the priests, in their flowing and
picturesque habits, are gathered around the altar, and the
broad floor is covered with kneeling worshippers, while the
deep tones of the organ fill the ear with sacred melody, the
effect is impressive and solemn.
Bleak and comfortless as was our bivouac, I can yet recall
some cheerful hours spent there. And what position or circumstance could damp the exuberant spirits of youth, engaged in an exciting campaign in a country so full of curious
and novel scenes! We had determined that nothing but the
approach of the Mexican army, (in which event, I ween,
birds of a stronger wing and fiercer spirit than doves would
have wheeled in the "' canon de Palomas ") should prevent us
from observing with customary honors the "hallow'd and
gracious time"' of Christmas. On its sacred eve, the country around us assumed a more cheerful aspect. The people
were abroad with songs and music; bonfires and rockets
blazed in every direction; the little chapel at the mill was