Karanis / Wool

About this Item

Record Details

Object Identifier

0000.01.0305

Other Number

Midgley 25.087.002

Type of Number

Catalogue Number

Lot

University of Michigan excavation (Karanis) Undetermined date

Collections

Kelsey Permanent Artifact Collections

Object Type

Textiles

Materials

Wool

Length

A - 14

B - 8.5

C - 6

Width

A - 37

B - 11

C - 27.5

Inscribed

161

Full Artifact Description

Fragment A -

The largest fragment of three pieces of wool fabric sewn together. The fabric is in two colors. 6.5 cm of fabric is woven in a brown/gold weft while 7.5 cm is woven in greenish weft. There are two rows of countered weft twining in the brown section. Each weft twining loop goes over 3 or 4 warp threads and under 2 or 3. The rows are approximately 1 cm apart, 0.2 cm from the green section. The greenish color may be the result of optical mixing or staining because under closer inspection the green yarns are actually blue/grey.

Fragment B -

Small fragment of wool fabric attached to 10305a by three lines of stitching. The warp is yellowed and the weft is blue/purple with a narrow weft band of the same yellow as the warp. The band is 0.3 cm wide and is almost in the center of the widest part of the fragment. Two edges have been turned under where this piece is sewn to the main fabric. Another row of stitching attaches the folded edge of the main fabric to this fragment.

Fragment C -

This fragment has a folded hem which has been sewn to 10305a by two rows of different color stitches. Part of it has been bent, folded and sewn under itself to form, in one place, three layers. The bent section, at this point, is perpedicular to the rest of the fragment. The fold may have been sewn down adjacent to the hem of 10305a. Several large stitches of a single yarn hold the two fabrics together and extend into the folded part of 10305c.

Unit Grid Number

0267

Area

R

Verbatim Provenance

Egypt

Verbatim Site

Karanis

Countermark

161

Condition Notes

Fragment A -

Somewhat stained with several tears and interior holes. All edges are frayed.

Fragment B -

Worn and partly faded.

Fragment C -

Very worn. The weaving has become loosened n places, especially near the edges.

Fabric Structure

All three fragment are weft-faced plain weave

Border Type

none

Selvedge Type

none

Sewing

The long edge of the brown section has been turned under and another piece of brown/gold fabric has been sewn to it using large running stitches. A row of brown stitches (YN1) of 5.5 cm crosses one of the twining rows at one end of the fabric but is not used to attach another fabric. A row of running stitches (YN2)goes from the greenish section to the brown section attaching fragment B. Another row of stitching along the edge of the green also is used to attach fragment B. The greenish fabric has been turned under to form a hem at this point. Two single large stitches of thicker plied yarns (YN3) are found at opposite ends of the fabric, one in the green section, one in the brown/gold section. Another, darker brown thread (YN4) is used to hem-stitch fragment C on to the brown/gold section of fragment A. Also, a few large stitches remain of a single yarn which extends into fragment C.

Yarn #

10305.WA.01

10305.WE.01

10305.WE.02

10305.WE.03

10305.YN.01

10305.YN.02

10305.YN.03

10305.YN.04

10305.YN.05

10305.WA.03

10305.WE.06

10305.WA.02

10305.WE.04

10305.WE.05

10305.YN.06

10305B.WA.1

10305B.WE.1

10305B.WE.2

10305B.YN.1

10305C.WA.1

10305C.WE.1

10305C.YN.1

10305C.YN.2

10305C.YN.3

Function

warp - fragment A

weft - fragment A

weft twining - fragment A

sewing - crosses twining row

sewing - attaches fragment B

sewing - two single stitches of thick yarn

sewing - attaches fragment C

sewing - at fold of fragment C & edge of fragment A

warp - fragment C

weft - fragment C

warp - fragment B

weft - fragment B

sewing - parallel to YN4, attaches fragment C

warp

weft

sewing thread

Color

pale brown/gold (464)

dark blue/grey (greenish) (433?)

med brown/orange (469)

Off white/yellowed (OITH L)

off white/yellowed (OITH L)

dark brown/red (4625)

off white/lightly yellowed (465)

off white/deeply yellowed (OITH)

off white/yellowed (OITHL)

dark blue/purple (532D)

(see 10305A.YN.2)

dark brown/red

(see 10305A.YN.4)

off white/lightly yellowed (465) (see 10305A.YN.5)

Yarns/cm

10

40

44

34

8

53? (16 picks in 0.3 cm)

54?

Structure

single

2-ply

single, used doubled

Spin

s

ssZ

Twist Level

med

high

varies med - high

med - high

Fiber

wool

Exhibition Title

The Art of the Ancient Weaver: Textiles from Egypt (4th-12th Century A.D.)

Exhibition Curator

van Rosevelt, Ann Taylor

Rosenberg, Amy

Haidler, Maria

Bace, Jill

Type Category

29

Technical Details

Collection

Kelsey Museum of Archaeology Art & Artifact Collection

Record

0000.01.0305

Link to this Item

https://quod.lib.umich.edu/k/kelsey/x-0000.01.0305/0000_01_0305 content_copy