Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

The County of DIVELIN or DƲBLIN.

BEyond the Cauci lived the Eblani, in that tract which is now the County of Dublin or Divelin; bounded on the east by the Irish sea, on the west by the County of Kildare, on the south by the little territories of the O-Tools and O-Birns, and those which they term the Glinnes;* 1.1 and lastly on the north by the County of Meath and the river Nanny. The soil produces good corn, and yields grass and fodder very plentifully; and the County is well stock'd with game, both for hunting and fowling; but so naked for the most part, that they generally burn a fat kind of a turf, or else coal out of England, instead of wood. In the south part, which is less improved and cultivated, there is now and then a hill pretty thick with wood upon the top of it; under which lie the low vales call'd Glynnes, thick set with woods; and these are mosta 1.2 sadly infested with those pernicious people, the O-Tooles and O-Birnes. Among these Glynnes lays the Bishoprick of Glandilaugh, which has been desolate and forsaken ever since it was annexed to the Arch∣bishoprick of Dublin. In other parts this County is very well town'd and peopled, and surpasses all other Provinces of Ireland for improvement and beauty; 'tis divided into five Baronies, Rathdown, Newcastle, Castle-Knoc, Cowloc, and Balrodry, which I cannot (as I should indeed desire) give a particular account of, because I am not well acquainted with the extent and bounds of them. First therefore, I will only glance along the sea-coast, and then follow the rivers as their course leads me into the inner parts of this County; none of which are twenty miles distant from the shore. To begin in the south, the first place we meet with upon the coast is Wicklo,* 1.3 where is a narrow haven with a rock hanging over it, en∣closed with good walls instead of a Castle, which, (as other Castles of this Kingdom) is prohibited by Act of Parliament, to be commanded by any one as Governor, that is not an English man; by reason those Irish men that have bore that charge heretofore, have, to the damage of the Government, either made ill defence in case of an assault, or suffered prisoners to escape by their connivance. But let us hear what Giraldus says of this port, who calls it Winchiligillo. There is a port at Winchiligillo, on that side of Ireland next Wales, which receives the tide every high water, and ebbs with the sea; and though the sea has gone back, and quite left it, yet the river which runs into the sea here, is all along as it goes salt and brackish.

Next, upon the top of a hill, by the sea-side, stands New-castle, whence may be seen those shelves of sand, call'd the Grounds, which lye along for a great way upon this coast; yet between them and the shore, the water is said to be seven fathom deep. A little higher, where theb 1.4 Bray (a small river) runs into the sea, stands Old Court,* 1.5 the estate of the Wal∣lenses or Walshes of Caryckmain; a family not only an∣cient and noble, but very numerous in these parts. Next to this is Powers Court,* 1.6 formerly (as the name it self shews) belonging to the Poers, a very large castle, till Tirlaugh O Toole, in a rebellion, overthrew it. From the mouth of the Bray the shore runs in, and admits a bay within that compass; where at the very turn of the* 1.7 elbow, lyes the little Island of S. Be∣nedict, which belongs to the Archbishop of Dublin. This bay is call'd Dublin-haven, into which runs the Liffy,* 1.8 the noblest river of this County; though the spring of it be but fifteen miles from the mouth, the course of it is so winding and crooked, that first it goes south by S. Patricks land, and then west; after that it plies northward, watering the County of Kildare; and at length eastward, by Castle Knoc, here∣tofore the Barony of the Terils; whose estate by fe∣males was transferr'd to other families about the year 1370; and by Kilmainam, formerly belonging to the Knights of the order of S. John of Jerusalem, now converted to a place of retirement for the Lord De∣puty. This Liffy is certainly mentioned in Ptolemy, though the Librarians have carelesly depriv'd it of its proper place. For this river Libnius is describ'd in the present editions of Ptolemy, to lye in the same latitude in the other part of the Island; whereas there is really no such river: and therefore now, if the reader pleases, let it be re-call'd from exile, and restored to its Eblana. Of it, thus Necham.

Viscera Castle-Knoc non dedignatur Aven-Liff, Istum Dublini suscipit unda maris. Nor thee, poor Castle-Knock, does Liffy scorn, Whose stream at Dublin to the Ocean's born.

For Dublin is but seven miles distant from the mouth of it, eminent and memorable above all the Cities of Ireland; the same which Ptolemy calls Eblana,* 1.9 we Develin, the Latins Dublinium and Dublinia, the Welsh Dinas Dulin, the Saxons Duflin, the Irish Balacleigh, that is, a town upon Hurdles (for so they think the foundation lyes) the ground being soft and quaggy; as was Sevill in Spain, which Isidore reports to be so call'd, because it stood upon pales fastned in the ground, which was loose and fenny. As for the an∣tiquity of Dublin, I have met with nothing, that I can positively say of it; that the City must needs be very ancient, I am satisfy'd upon Ptolemy's au∣thority. Saxo Grammaticus makes it to have been sadly shatter'd in the Danish wars; afterwards it sell under the subjection of Edgar King of England, as his Charter already mentioned testifies21 1.10. Next, the Norwegians got possession of it; and therefore in the life of Gryffith ap Cynan, Prince of Wales, we read that Harald the Norwegian, after he had sub∣du'd the greatest part of Ireland, built Dublin. This Harald seems to be that* 1.11 Har-fager, first King of Norway, whose pedigree stands thus in the life of Gryffith. From Harald descended* 1.12 Auloed; from Auloed another of the same name; This Auloed had Sitric King of Dublin. Sitric had a son Auloed, whose daughter Racwella was mother to Gryffith ap Cynan, born at Dublin, while† 1.13 Tirlough reign'd in Ireland. This by the by. At length, upon the first arrival of the English in Ireland, Dublin was soon taken, and gallantly defended by them; when Ausculph Prince of Dublin, and afterwards Gothred Prince of the Isles fiercely assaulted it on all sides. A little after, an English Colony was transplanted from Bristol hither by King Henry the second, giving them this City (which was perhaps at that time drain'd of Inhabitants) in these words, with all the liberties and free customs which those of Bristol enjoyed. From that time it flourished more and more; and in many doubtful and dangerous cir∣cumstances, has shown great instances of its loyalty to the Kings of England.

This is the Royal City of Ireland, and the most no∣ble* 1.14 Mart, wherein the chief Courts of Judicature are held. The City is well wall'd, neatly built, and very populousc 1.15. An old writer describes it to be noble for its many Inhabitants, very pleasantly situated,* 1.16 and well supplied with fish from the river, as it runs into the sea here; famous for trade, and for those sweet plains, oaky woods, and fine parks so entertaining about it. Thus also William of Newborow. Divelin, a mari∣time City, is the metropolis of Ireland; it enjoys the bene∣fit of a famous harbor, and for trade and concourse of mer∣chants, rivals London. Its situation is particularly pleasant and wholsome, having hills on the south, plains on the west, and sea just the by it on the east, and and the river Liffy on the north, where ships ride

safely. Upon the river there are Kaies (as we call them) or certain works made to break the violence of the water. For Caiare among the ancients, signifi∣ed to restrain,* 1.17 check, or hinder, as the most learned Scaliger has observed. Here the City wall, well built of free stone, begins, fortified on the south with rampiers; it has six gates, which open into large suburbs on all sides.

The access on the south is by Dammes-gate; near which stands the King's castle upon a rising, well fortified with ditches and towers, and provided with a good Arsenal; built by Henry Loundres the Archbi∣shop, about the year 1220. In that suburb, on the east side, near St. Andrew's Church, Henry the second, King of England (as Hoveden says) caused a royal pa∣lace22 1.18 to be built of smooth wattles very curious, after the manner of this Country; and here, with the Kings and Princes of Ireland, he kept a Chrstmas-day in great solemnity.

Over against it stands a fine College, on the same spot where Alhallows* 1.19-Monastery heretofore stood, de∣dicated to the Indivisible and Holy Trinity, endow'd with the privileges of an University by Queen Eliza∣beth of blessed memory,* 1.20 for the education of youth, and lately furnished with a good Library; which gives no small hopes that Religion and Learning, will, after a long exile, return to Ireland, formerly the seat of the Muses, to which foreigners resorted, as to the great Mart of liberal arts and sciences.* 1.21 In the reign of Edward the second, Alexander Bicknor, Archbi∣shop of Dublin, having obtained from the Pope the privileges of an University for this place, and insti∣tuted publick Lectures, first began to recall them; but this laudable design was broken by the turbulent times that followed.

The north gate opens towards the bridge, which is arched and built of* 1.22 free stone by King John, who joyned Oustman-town to the City. For here the Oustmanni, which Giraldus says came from Norway and those Northern Islands, setled (according to our Histories) about the year 1050. In this suburbs, stood formerly the famous Church of S. Mary de Oustmanby (for so 'tis call'd in King John's Charter) and also a House of Black Friers, whither the King's Courts of Judicature were lately transferr'd. On the west part of Dublin there are two gates, Ormonds-gate and Newgate (which is the common Gaol,) both leading to the longest suburb, of this City, named St. Thomas, where stands also a noble Abbey of the same name, called Thomas Court;* 1.23 founded, and endowed with large revenues by King Henry the second, to expiate for the death of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury. On the south, we enter by S. Paul's gate, and that call'd S. Nicholas, opening into S. Patrick's suburb, where stands the Palace of the Archbishop, known by the name of S. Sepulcher, with a stately Church, dedicated to S. Patrick, very fine within for its stone pavements and arch'd roof, and without for its high steeple. 'Tis uncertain when this Church was first built, but that Gregory King of Scots, about the year 890, came in pilgrimage to it, is plain from the Scotch history. Afterwards it was much enlarged by King John, and made a Church of Prebends by John Comy, Archbishop of Dublin; which was con∣firmed by Coelestine the third, Bishop of Rome, in the year 1191. After that, again Henry Loundres, his successor in this See of Dublin, augmented the dignities of the Parsonages,* 1.24 as the words of the founder are, and made it conformable to the immunities, or∣ders▪ and customs of the Church of Salisbury. At pre∣sent it consists of a Dean, a Chanter, a Chancellor, a Treasurer, two Archdeacons, and twenty two Pre∣bendaries;* 1.25 the only light and lamp (not to conceal a very noble Character which a Parliament of this Kingdom gave it) of all pious and Ecclesiastical discipline and order in Ireland. Here is also another Cathedral Church in the very heart of the City, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, but commonly call'd Christ's Temple. Concerning it's foundation, we have this passage in the Archives of that Church. Sitric King of Dublin, son of Ableb Count of Dublin, gave a piece of ground to the Holy Trinity, and to Donatus the first Bishop of Dub∣lin, to build a Church on in honour of the Holy Trinity; and not only that, but gold and silver also sufficient for that design, and to finish the whole* 1.26 Church-yard. This was done about the year 1012, at which time Lan∣carvanensis affirms, that Sitric son of Abloie (so he calls him) flourished. The work was begun by Donatus, but carry'd on and finish'd by Laurence, Archbishop of Dublin, Richard Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, commonly call'd Comes Striguliae (whose tomb, re∣pair'd by23 1.27 Henry Sidney Lord Deputy, is to be seen here;) Robert Fitz-Stephens, and Reimond Fitz-Girald. On the south side of the Church stands the Town-hall, built of square stone, and call'd Tolestale,* 1.28 where Causes are try'd before the Mayor, and where sessions and publick meeting of the Citizens are often held. The City enjoys many privileges. Formerly it was govern'd in chief by a Provost; but in the year 1409, King Henry the fourth gave them the privilege of choosing every year a Mayor with two Bailiffs, and of carrying a guilt sword before him. Afterward King Edward the sixth changed these Bailiffs into Sheriffs. There is nothing wanting to the grandeur and happiness of this City, but the re∣moval of those heaps of sand, that by the flux and re∣flux of the sea, are wash'd up into the mouth of the river Liffy, and hinder great ships from coming up but at high water. Thus much for Dublin, the account whereof, I confess to be mostly owing to the diligence and knowledge of James Usher, Chancellor of S. Pa∣tricks; whose variety of Learning, and soundness of Judgment, are infinitely beyond his years.

As for Robert Vere, earl of Oxford, whom Richard the second (who was profuse in bestowing titles of honour) made Marquiss of Dublin,* 1.29 and afterwards Duke of Ireland; I have took notice of him before, and need not report it here24 1.30.

Where the river Liffy runs into the sea, stands Houth, almost encompassed by the salt water,* 1.31 which gives the title of Barons to the noble family of S. L••u∣rence, who have lived there so happy, that in a long series of successors (for they derive their pedigree as low as Henry the seventh's time) no one of them (as 'tis said) has ever been attainted of treason, or left in minority. A little distance from hence is Malchid,* 1.32 eminent for its Lords the Talbots, an English family.

More to the north inward, stands ^b Fingall,* 1.33 which is an Irish word, and signifies a nation of Foreigners (for they call the English Gall, i.e. Strangers, and Saiss••nes, as it were Saxons) a small territory, well cultivated, and the granary in a manner of this Kingdom; it yields such plentiful crops of corn every year. Here the earth strives, as it were, to be grateful to the hus∣band-man; which in other parts of this Island is so neglected, that for want of tillage, it seems to re∣proach the sloth and idleness of the Inhabitants. Here are scatter'd up and down this Country many emi∣nent families of the English: besides those but now mentioned, the Plunkets, the Barnwells, the Russ••lls, the Talbots, Dillons, Nettervills, Holywoods, Lutterels, Burnells, Fitz-Williams, Goldings, Ushers, Cadleys, Finglases, Sarfelds, Blackneys, Cruces, Baths, &c.

Thus much, as briefly as I could, of Leinster, which formerly went no farther. I cannot tell whether it would best deserve laughter or penning, that Thomas Stukely,* 1.34 when he had lost his reputation and fortune, both in England and Ireland, and escap'd the danger of the Law; by his fair promises and ostentation, in∣sinuated himself so much into the favour of Pope Gre∣gory the thirteenth, that he conferr'd upon him the titles of Marquiss of Leinster, Earl of Weisford and Cater∣lagh, Vicount of Murrough, and Baron of Ross and Ydron. Thus, big with the vanity of these titles, in∣tending to invade Ireland, he turn'd into Africa, and along with three Kings that were slain in one battle, ended the scene of his life honourably enough.d 1.35

Notes

• * 1.1

  ••••e Glin∣••••••.
• a 1.2

  It is not so at this day; but on the contrary, is as safe and secure as any part of Ireland.
• * 1.3

  W••••••lo 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a Co••ty. 1606.
• b 1.4

  It is the bound between the Counties of Dublin and Wicklow; so that the part already described south of that river, is comprehended in the County of Wicklow.
• * 1.5

  ••ld Court.
• * 1.6

  ••wers ••••••rt.
• * 1.7

  Cubiti.
• * 1.8

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 v. Lif∣•• ••y Gi∣••ius, A∣••••. Liff.
• * 1.9

  Eblana, Dublin.
• 21 1.10

  Wherein he calleth it the noble City of Ireland.
• * 1.11

  Pulchri∣comus.
• * 1.12

  Other wise call'd Ablo••eus, Anlasus, and Ola∣nus.
• † 1.13

  Thirde∣lacus.
• * 1.14

  Empori∣um.
• c 1.15

  Dublin is more t••an as big a∣gain as it was when Camden wrote; the buildings much more supmtuous, and the City every way much more glorious and magnificent.
• * 1.16

  Joscelinus de Furne∣si•• In the life of S. Patrick, l. 2. rerum Anglica∣rum, cap 26.
• * 1.17

  Ad Auson. lib. ••. c. 22.
• 22 1.18

  Or rather banqueting-house.
• * 1.19

  Allhallows
• * 1.20

  Univ••rsity b gun and found••d in 1591, May 13. S u∣d n s ••d∣mi••ted in the year 1593.
• * 1.21

  1320. L. MS. of Baron Houth.
• * 1.22

  F. vivo Saxo.
• * 1.23

  Thomas Court.
• * 1.24

  P••rsonatu∣um.
• * 1.25

  Stat. Parl. 18 Hen. 8. c. 15.
• * 1.26

  Cur••••.
• 23 1.27

  Sir Henry.
• * 1.28

  Tol••stal••
• * 1.29

  Ma••q•••••••• of Dub••••••
• 24 1.30

  Yet will I note thus much, which I have since hapned upon in the Records. When, as King Richard aforesaid had advanced that Robert Vere, Earl of Oxford, to be Marquiss of Dublin, and had given to him the Seigniory of I••eland during his life; he, desirous to augment his honour by more ennoblishing him with honourable Arms, granted also, that as long as he should live, and hold the said Seigniory, he should bear these Arms, Azure 3 Crowns, Or in a border, in his Standards, Pennons, Coat-armors, and other things were∣in Arms are to be shewed in all Marshal matters, and e••sewhere at his pleasure. But this grant was soon after recalled, and those Arms abolished.
• * 1.30.1

  Pr. pat. an. 9. Ric. 2. m. 1.
• * 1.31

  Baro•••• Ho•••• S. ••a••¦re••ce.
• * 1.32

  Ma••ch••••
• * 1.33

  F••nga••
• * 1.34

  Thom•••• Stu••••••
• d 1.35

  This is a Barony in the County of Dublin.