Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

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Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
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London :: Printed by F. Collins, for A. Swalle ... and A. & J. Churchil ...,
1695.
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"Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ..." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/B18452.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 24, 2025.

Pages

Page [unnumbered]

SCOTLAND. (Book Scotland)

NOW I am bound for Scotland, whither I go with a willing mind; but shall with gentle touches lightly pass it over. Not forgetting that Minus notis minus diu insistendum, The less we know things, the less we are to insist upon them; and that advice of the Grecian, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Be not too busie, where thou art not acquainted. For it would certainly be impudent to treat copiously, where our notices have been but little. But since this too is ho∣nour'd with the name of Britain, may I have liberty, with due respect to the Scot∣tish Nation, in pursuance of my bold design of illustrating Britain, to prosecute my undertaking with their good leave; and drawing aside (as it were) the Curtains of obsure Antiquity, to point out, according to my ability, some places of ancient note and memory. I assure my self of a certain pardon both from the good na∣ture of the people themselves, and the extraordinary happiness of these times, when by a divine providence, that is fallen into our hands, which we hardly ever hoped for, and our Ancestors so often and so earnestly wished to see; that is, that Britain, so mny Ages divided in it self, and unsociable, should all in general like one uni∣form City, under one most August Monarch, the founder of an eternal peace, be conjoyned in one entire body. Who being through the propitious goodness of Al∣mighty God, elected, born, and preserved to the good of both Nations, as he is a Prince of singular wisdom, and fatherly affection to all his subjects, doth so cut off all occasions of fear, hope, revenge, and complaint; that the fatal Discord, which hath so long engaged these Nations (otherwise invincible) in mutual Wars, is stifled and suppressed for ever; and Concord rejoyces exceedingly, as it were, keeps Holiday, and Triumphs; because, as the Poet sings,

Jam cuncti Gens una sumus. Now all one Nation, we're united fast.

To which we answer by way of Chorus.

Et simus in aevum. And may that union for ever last.

But before I enter upon Scotland, I think it not amiss to advertise the Reader thus much before-hand, that I leave the first Original of the Scottish Nation, and the Etymology of their Name (banishing all conjectures of others, which as well in former Ages as these our days, owe their birth either to hasty credulity, or care∣less negligence) to be discussed by their own Historians, and the Learned of that Nation. And following the same method I took in England, I shall premise something in short touching the division of Scotland, the States of the King∣dom, and the Courts of Justice; and then briefly touch upon the Situation and Commodities of every several County; which are the Places of most Note, what Families are most eminent, and have flourished with the title and ho∣nour of Earls and Barons of Parliament, so far forth as by reading and enquiry I cou'd possibly procure information; and that cautiously, taking all imaginable care, by an ingenuous and sincere regard for truth, not to give the least offence to the most malicious; and by so compendious a brevity, as not to prevent the cu∣rious diligence of those, who may possibly attempt this with a fuller stroke, and finish the same with more lively and lasting colours.

Page 883-884

Additions concerning SCOTLAND in general.

SINCE our Author has profess'd himself at a loss in the affairs of Scotland, and for that rea∣son has but touch'd very lightly upon each part of it; it will be so much the more neces∣sary to continue our method through this Kingdom; and add such things as seem proper and agreeable to the design. Especially, being encourag'd and assisted herein by the Informations of the very learned Sir Robert Sibbald, Dr. of Physick, who has given suffici∣ent testimonies to the world, of his knowledge of Antiquities, and particularly those of his own Country.

As Albion was the first and most ancient name that we meet with of Great Britain, in the old Greek and Latin Authors; so was Albania,* 1.1 of that northern part that lay beyond the Humber and Deva. The Learned have deliver'd various reasons why it should be so call'd; but the most probable of them is, from the ancient Inhabitants calling themselves Albanich, who likewise term'd their Country Albin; and their posterity, the High-landers, do still retain the name in a part of their Country call'd Braid-Albin.

The Country which now makes the Kingdom of Scotland, is contain'd in less bounds, being divided from England by the water of Tweed to Carhoom; then by Keddon-burn, Haddon-rigg, Black-down-hill, Morsla-hill, Battinbuss-hill, to the risings of the rivers Keal and Ted; after by Kersop-burn, Liderwater, Esk, to the Tod-holls, the Marchdike, to White-sack and Sol∣loway-frith. On the west, it hath the Irish-Sea; on the north the Deucaledonian; and on the east the Ger∣man Ocean. On all which sides, bordering upon the Sea, it hath several Isles belonging to it.

From the Mule of Galloway in the south, to Dungs∣bay-head in the east-point of Cathness in the north, it is about 250 miles long; and betwixt Buchan-ness on the east sea, and Ardnamurchan-point on the west, 150 miles broad. The most southerly part of it, a∣bout Whitern, is 54 degrees, 54 min. in Latitude; and in Longitude, 15 degrees, 40 min. The nor∣thermost part, the above-mentioned Dungsbay-head, is 58 degrees, 32, (some say 30.) min. in Latitude, and 17 degrees, 50 minutes in Longitude. The longest day is about 18 hours and two minutes; and the shortest night 5 hours and 45 minutes.

* 1.2It was not without reason, that Caesar said Of Bri∣tain, Coelum Gallico temperatius; for even in Scotland the air is more mild and temperate than in the Con∣tinent under the same Climate, by reason of the warm-vapours from the sea upon all sides, and the continual breezes of the wind from thence: the heat in Summer is no way scorching. The constant winds purifie the air and keep it always in motion; so that 'tis seldom any Epidemick disease rages here.

* 1.3The nature of the Country is hilly and moun∣tainous, there being but few plains, and they of no great extent. Those they have, are generally by the sea-side, and from thence the ground begins to rise sensibly, the farther in the Country the higher; so that the greatest hills are in the middle of the King∣dom. These hills, especially upon the skirts of the Country, breed abundance of Cows, which not on∣ly afford store of butter and cheese to the Inhabi∣tants, but likewise considerable profit by the vent of their hides and tallow, and the great numbers that are sold in England, when there is no Prohibition. Their size (as also that of their sheep) is but small; but the meat of both of an exceeding fine taste, and very nourishing. The High-Lands afford great Flocks of Goats, with store of Deer; and are clear'd from Wolves. The whole Country has good store and va∣riety of fowl, both tame and wild.

The quality of the soil,* 1.4 compared in general with that of England, is not near so good. 'Tis common∣ly more fit for pasture, and for that purpose is very well watered. Where the surface is leanest, there are found Metals, and Minerals; and considerable quan∣ties of Lead are exported yearly: there is also good Copper, but they will not be at the pains to work it. But in much of the in-land Country, especially where it lyeth upon some of the Friths, the soil is very good; and there all sorts of grain grows, that is usual in the South parts of Britain. The Wheat is frequently exported by Merchants to Spain, Holland, and Norwey. Barley grows plentifully; and their Oats are extreme good, affording bread of a clean and wholesome nourishment. In the Low-grounds, they have store of Pease and Beans, which for the strength of their feeding are much used by the Labouring people. In the skirts of the Country, which are not so fit for Grain, these grow great woods of Timber to a vast bigness, especially Firr-trees, which are found to thrive best in stony grounds.

Springs of Mineral-waters, (which the people find useful in several diseases) are common enough. No Country is better provided with Fishes. Besides, flocks of smaller Whales, the Porpess, and the Meer∣swine, frequently cast in; great Whales of the Baleen or Whale-bone kind, and of the Sperma Ceti kind, are cast now and then upon several parts of the shore.

Besides the grain and other commodities already named, the Merchants export alablaster, linnen and woollen cloath, freezes, plaids, plaiding, stuff, stock∣ings, malt and meal, skins of Rabbets, Hares, &c. fishes, eggs, oker, marble, coal, and salt.

The Christian Religion was very early planted here;* 1.5 for Tertullian's words Britannorum inaccessa Romanis loca, Christo verò subdita, must be understood of the north part of the Island, possessed by the Scots, and separated by a wall from that part which was sub∣ject to the Romans. The Religion of the Kingdom establisht by Law, is that which is contain'd in the Confession of Faith, authoriz'd in the first Parliament of King James 6. and defined in the 19th Article of the said Confession, to be That which is contained in the written word of God.

For the promotion of Learning they have four Universities, St. Andrews, Glasgow, Aberdeen,* 1.6 and Edenburgh; wherein are Professors of most of the Liberal Arts, endowed with competent Salaries.

Page 885-886

The Division of SCOTLAND.

ALL the Northern part of the Island of Bri∣tain was antiently inhabited by the Picts, who were divided into two Nations, the Dicalidonii and Vecturiones, of whom I have spoken already out of Ammianus Marcellinus. But when the Scots had gotten possession of this Tract, it was shar'd into seven parts, amongst seven Princes, as we have it in a little antient Book Of the Division of Scotland, in these words:

  • The first part contained Enegus and Maern.
  • The second, Atheodl and Goverin.
  • The third, Stradeern with Meneted.
  • The fourth was Forthever.
  • The fifth, Mar with Buchen.
  • The sixth, Muref and Ross.
  • The seventh, Cathness, which Mound, a Mountain, divides in the midst, running along from the Western to the Eastern Sea.

After that, the same Author reports from the Rela∣tion of Andrew Bishop of Cathness, that the whole Kingdom was divided likewise into seven Territories.

  • The first from Fryth, so termed by the Britains, by the Romans Worid, now Scottwade, to the River Tae.
  • The second, from Hilef, as the Sea surrounds it, to a Mountain in the North-east part of Sterling, named Athran.
  • The third, from Hilef to Dee.
  • The fourth, from Dee to the River Spe.
  • The fifth from Spe to the Mountain Brunalban.
  • The sixth, Mures and Ross.
  • The seventh, the Kingdom of Argathel, as it were the border of the Scots, who were so called from Gathelgas their Captain.

With respect to the* 1.7 manners and ways of living, it is divided into the High-land-men and Low-land-men. These are more civilized, and use the language and habit of the English; the other more rude and barba∣rous, and use that of the Irish, as I have already men∣tioned, and shall discourse hereafter. Out of this di∣vision I exclude the Borderers,* 1.8 because they, by the bles∣sed and happy Union, enjoying the Sun-shine of peace on every side, are to be lookt upon as living in the very midst of the British Empire; and begin (being sufficiently tir'd with war) to grow acquainted with, and to have an inclination for peace.

With respect to the situation of the places, the whole Kingdom is again divided into two parts, the Southern, on this side the river Tay, and the Northern, on the other side the River Tay; besides a great ma∣ny Islands lying round about. In the Southern part, these Countries are most remarkable:

  • ...Teifidale.
  • ...Merch.
  • ...Lauden.
  • ...Liddesdale.
  • ...Eskdale.
  • ...Annandale.
  • ...Niddesdale.
  • ...Galloway.
  • ...Carrick.
  • ...Kyle.
  • ...Cunningham.
  • ...Arran.
  • ...Cluydesdale.
  • ...Lennox.
  • ...Stirling.
  • ...Fife.
  • ...Strathern.
  • ...Menteith.
  • ...Argile.
  • ...Cantire.
  • ...Lorn.

In the North part are reckoned these Counties:

  • ...Loquabar.
  • ...Braidalbin.
  • ...Perth.
  • ...Athol.
  • ...Angus.
  • ...Mern.
  • ...Marr.
  • ...Buquhan.
  • ...Murray.
  • ...Ross.
  • ...Sutherland.
  • ...Cathness.
  • ...Strathnavern.

These are subdivided again with respect to the Ci∣vil Government into Sheriffdoms, Stewarties, and Bai∣leries.

a 1.9The She∣riffdoms are,

  • ...Edenburgh.
  • ...Linlythquo.
  • ...Selkirk.
  • ...Roxburgh.
  • ...Peeblis.
  • ...Berwick.
  • ...Lanerick.
  • ...Renfrew.
  • ...Dumfreis.
  • ...Wigton.
  • ...Aire.
  • ...Bute.
  • Argyle and
  • ...Tarbet.
  • ...Dunbarton.
  • ...Perth.
  • ...Clackmannan.
  • ...Kinross.
  • ...Fiffe.
  • ...Kincardin.
  • ...Forfar.
  • ...Aberdene.
  • ...Bamff.
  • ...Elgin.
  • ...Forres.
  • ...Narne.
  • ...Innerness.
  • ...Cromartie.
  • Orknay, and
  • ...Shetland.

Stewarties.

  • ...Menteith.
  • ...Strathern.
  • ...b 1.10Kircudbright.
  • ...Annandale.

Baileries.

  • ...Kile.
  • ...Carrick.
  • ...Cunningham.

Constablery. Haddington.

As for the administration of Church-affairs; as the rest of the Bishops of the World had no certain Dio∣ceses, before Dionysius Bishop of Rome, about the year 268. set out distinct Dioceses for them; so the Bishops of Scotland exercised their Episcopal Fun∣ctions indifferently wherever they were, till the Reign of Malcolm the third, that is, about the year of our Redemption, 1070. At which time, the Dioceses were confined within their bounds and limits. After∣wards, in process of time, this Hierarchy was esta∣blished in Scotland. There are two Archbishops, of St. Andrews, and Glasco; the first is accounted Primate of all Scotland, and hath under his jurisdictionc 1.11 eight Bishopricks:

  • ...Dunkell.
  • ...Aberdeen:
  • ...Murray.
  • ...Dumblane.
  • ...Brechen.
  • ...Ross.
  • ...Cathness.
  • ...Orkney.

Under the Archbishop of Glasco there are only three:

  • ...Galloway.
  • Lismore and
  • ...The Isles.

Page 887-888

ADDITIONS.

BEsides the Divisions of this Kingdom observ'd by Mr. Camden, there are four others, taken from the Rivers, the Mountains, the quality of the Soil, and the ancient Inhabi∣tants.

1. The Rivers divide it by three Isthmus's into so many Peninsula's; one to the south, one in the mid∣dle, and one to the north. The rivers upon each side running far into the Country, are hinder'd from meeting by a small tract of ground; and if that were removed, they would make three Islands of that which is now the Continent or main land of Scotland.

The first Peninsula is to the south, divided from England by the river of Tweed, and where it faileth, by a line drawn to Solloway-Firth, which entereth far up into the adjacent countrey; and towards the north, from the rest of the continent by the Firth, and river of Forth, and a short line over land to Clide, by which and its Firth it is separated from the north∣west part, and the rest of the continent. This com∣prehendeth the following Counties, Merse, Teviot∣dale, Forrest, and Etterick, Annandale, and Nithisdale East-Lothian, Mid-Lothian, and West-Lothian, Lauder∣dale, Tweedale, Stirlingshire, Renfrew, Cliddisdale, Cun∣ningham, Kyle, and Carrict, Galloway, which con∣taineth the Stewartry of Kircudbright, and Shire of Wigton.

The middle Peninsula hath to the south, the Firth and river of Forth, and the line betwixt it and the river and Firth of Clide; to the west and east, the ocean; and to the north, it is separated from the rest of the continent of Scotland, by the Loch and wa∣ter of Lochly, and a line through a short neck of land to the rise of Loch Nesse; and then by the Loch and river of Ness to where that River runneth into the sea. It containeth these Counties; Fyfe, Kinrosshire, Clackmannanshire, Menteith, Lennox, Argyle, Lorn, Can∣tyre, Perthshire, Angus, Mernes, Aberdeenshire, Bamf∣shire, all Badenoth, part of Lochaber, and much of the Shire of Inverness.

The northern Peninsula hath to the south the Loch and water of Lochly, and a short line from thence to Lochness and the water of Ness; to the west, north, and east, it hath the Ocean; and containeth these Counties; Ross, Sutherland, Strathnavern, and Cath∣ness, and that part of Lochaber, and Inverness-shire, that lyeth to the north of the Loch, and water of Ness.

2. It is divided by the mons Grampius, or the Grantz∣bain-hills, which run through it from the west to the east, rising near Dumbanton, and running to the town of Aberdeen, into the south and north parts; though this division is not so equal as the former.

3. By the quality of the soil, into the High-lands and Low-lands. For the people who affected pasture and hunting betook themselves always to the hills, as most proper for them, and were of old called Brigantes, Scoto-Brigantes, and Horesti, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, High-landers and Braemen as they are called to this day. And these, who gave themselves to the culture of the lands, and affected more of a civil life, betook them to the low grounds, towards the sea, and were called of old Picti and Meatae, Vecturiones, and Peahts: and by some of the Roman writers Caledonii, while these that did inhabite the mountains were called Dicaledo∣nes, and as some read it Duncaledones. By others of the Romans the word Caledonia comprehendeth the Country possessed by both.

4. It was divided into the two Kingdoms of the Scots and Picts. The Scots were possessed of all the Western-Isles, and the skirts of the Country towards the west: the Picts had all that lay upon the Ger∣man Ocean. The Romans breaking in upon them, gain'd a large tract, that contain'd all the ground between the two Walls; which they erected into a Province called Valentia.

The particular Shires, with their extent, are as follows:

  • The Shire of
    • ...Edenburgh
    • ...Mers
    • ...Peebles
    • ...Selkirk
    • ...Roxburh
    • ...Dumfries
    • ...Wigton
    • ...Aire
    • ...Renfrew
    • ...Lanerick
    • ...Dumbron
    • ...Bute
    • ...Innerara
    • ...Perth
    • ...Striveling
    • ...Linlithgow
    • ...Kinros
    • ...Clackmannan
    • ...Couper
    • ...Forfar
    • ...Kinkardin
    • ...Aberdeen
    • ...Bamff
    • ...Elgin
    • ...Nairn
    • ...Inverness
    • ...Cromartie
    • ...Tayn
    • ...Dornoch
    • ...Wike
  • Contains
    • Midlothian.
    • Mers and Lauderdale.
    • Tweedale.
    • Etterick and Forrest.
    • Teviotdale, Liddisdale, Esk∣dale, and Eusdale.
    • Nithisdale and Annandale.
    • The West part of Galloway.
    • Kyle, Carrict, and Cuning∣ham.
    • The Barony of Renfrew.
    • Cledsdale.
    • Lenox.
    • The Isles of Bute and Arran.
    • Argile, Lorn, Kintyre; most part of the west Isles, as Ila, Jura, Mul, Wyst, Terif, Coll, Lis∣more.
    • Menteith, Strathern, Bal∣whidder, Glenurghay, Stormont, Athol, Gource, Glenshee, Strattardill, Braid Albin, Raynock.
    • Much of the ground that lyeth close upon both sides of Forth.
    • West-Lothian.
    • That part of Fife lying be∣tween Lochleven and the Ochill hills.
    • A small part of Fife lying on the river of Forth to∣wards Striveling.
    • The rest of Fife to the east of Lochleven.
    • Angus with its pertinents, Glen-Ila, Glen-Esk, Glen-prossin.
    • The Mernis.
    • Mar with its pertinents, as Birs, Glen-Tanner, Glen-Muick, Strath-dee, Strath∣don, Brae of Mar and Cromar, and most part of Buchan, Fourmartin, Gareock, and Strath-Bogie-Land.
    • A small part of Buchan, Strathdovern, Boyn, Ein∣zie, Strath Awin, and Balvenie.
    • The East part of Murray.
    • The West part of Murray.
    • Badenoch, Lochabir, and the south part of Ross.
    • A small part of Ross, lying on the south side of Cro∣martie-Frith.
    • The rest of Ross, with the Isles of Sky, Lewis, and Herris.
    • Sutherland and Strathna∣vern.
    • Cathness.

Beside the Stewartries mentioned by our Author, there is that of Orkney, which contains all the Isles of Orkney and Zetland.

The Constabularie of Hadington, contains East-Lothian.

To pursue Mr. Camden's method in his general Description of England, it will be necessary to give a scheme of the bounds and extent of the several Dio∣ceses of this kingdom.

    Page 889-890

    • Diocese of
      • St. Andrews
      • ...Glasgow
      • ...Edinburgh
      • ...Dunkeld
      • ...Aberdeen
      • ...Murray
      • ...Brichin
      • ...Dumblam
      • ...Ross
      • ...Cathness
      • ...Orkney
      • ...Galloway
      • ...Argile
      • ...The Isles
    • Contains
      • Part of Perthshire, and part of Angus and Mernes.
      • The shires of Dunbarton, Ranfrew, Air, Lanerick, part of the shires of Rox∣burgh, Dumfreis, Pee∣bles, and Selkirk.
      • The shires of Edinburgh, Linlithgow, part of Strivelingshire, Berwick∣shire, the Constabularie of Hadington, and Bailery of Lauderdale.
      • The most part of Perthshire, part of Angus, and part of West-Lothian.
      • Most part of Bams-shire, and part of Mernis.
      • The shires of Elgin, Nairn, and part of Inverness and Bamf-shire.
      • Part of Angus, and Mernis.
      • Part of Perth, and Strive∣ling-shires.
      • The shire of Tain, Cro∣mertie, and the greatest part of Inverness-shire.
      • Cathness and Sutherland.
      • All the Northern Isles of Orkney and Zetland.
      • The shire of Wigton, the Stewartrie of Kircud∣bright, the Regality of Glentrurie, and part of Dumfries-shire.
      • Argile, Lorn, Kintyre, and Lohaber, with some of the West Isles.
      • Most of the west Isles.

    Under this Constitution, the Government was thus. 1. In every Parish the cognizance of some scandals belong'd to the Session (a Judicature compos'd of the greatest and worthiest persons in each parish) where the Minister presided ex officio. 2. But if the Case prov'd too intricate, it was referred to the Pres∣byterie, a superior Judicature, consisting of a certain number of Ministers, between 12 and 20, who met almost every fortnight. The Moderator herein was nam'd by the Bishop; and besides the censures they inflicted, 'twas by them that such as enter'd into Or∣ders were solemnly examined.

    The Presbyteries are these that follow,

    • ...Dunce.
    • ...Chernside.
    • ...Kelso.
    • ...Ersilton.
    • ...Jedburgh.
    • ...Melross.
    • ...Dumbar.
    • ...Hadington.
    • ...Dalkeith.
    • ...Edinburgh.
    • ...Peebles.
    • ...Linlithgow.
    • ...Perth.
    • ...Dunkeld.
    • ...Auchterarder.
    • ...Striveling.
    • ...Dumblane.
    • ...Dumfreis.
    • ...Penpont.
    • ...Lochmabane.
    • ...Midlebie.
    • ...Wigton.
    • ...Kircudbright.
    • ...Stranraver.
    • ...Aire.
    • ...Irwing.
    • ...Paselay.
    • ...Dumbarton.
    • ...Glasgow.
    • ...Hamilton.
    • ...Lanerick.
    • ...Biggar.
    • ...Dunnune.
    • ...Kinloch.
    • ...Inerary.
    • ...Kilmore.
    • ...Sky.
    • St. Andrews.
    • ...Kirkaldy.
    • ...Cowper.
    • ...Dumfermelin.
    • ...Meegle.
    • ...Dundee.
    • ...Arbroth.
    • ...Forfar.
    • ...Brichen.
    • ...Mernis.
    • ...Aberdeen.
    • ...Kinkardin.
    • ...Alfoord.
    • ...Gareoch.
    • ...Deir.
    • ...Turref.
    • ...Fordyce.
    • ...Ellon.
    • ...Strathbogie.
    • ...Abernethie.
    • ...Elgin.
    • ...Forres.
    • ...Aberlower.
    • ...Chanrie.
    • ...Tayn.
    • ...Dingwell.
    • ...Dornoch.
    • ...Week.
    • ...Thurso.
    • ...Kirkwal.
    • ...Scaloway.
    • ...Colmkill.

    3. Above this was the Provincial-Synod, who met twice a year in every Diocese, and had the examina∣tion of such cases as were referred to them by the Presbyteries; here the Bishop presided ex officio. 4. Above all was the Convocation, when the King pleas'd to call it, wherein the Archbishop of St. Andrews presided. And besides these, every Bishop for the cases of Testaments, &c. had his Official or Commis∣sary, who was judge of that Court within the Diocese. Of these, Edenburgh had four, the rest one.

    But since Presbyterie has been introduced, the Church-government stands thus:

    1. They also have their Parochial Sessions; but with this difference, that though the Minister presides, yet a Lay-man (a Bailie) ordinarily assists. 2. In their Presbyteries they chose their own Moderator to preside. 3. They have their Synod, or Provincial Assembly, but without a constant head; for every time they meet, they make choice of a new Mode∣rator. 4. Their General Assembly: this consists of two members from every Presbytery, and one Commissi∣oner from each University. The King too has his Commissioner there, without whose consent no Act can pass; and before they be in force, they must be also ratify'd by the King.

    Thus much of the several Divisions of Scotland. As to the Orders and Degrees of this Kingdom, there appears no alteration in them since our Author's time; and if any one desires to have a more par∣ticular information in their Courts of Justice, and Methods of Proceeding; a separate Treatise upon this subject, written by the Learned Sir George Makenzy, late Lord Advocate of Scotland, will give him am∣ple satisfaction.

    Page [unnumbered]

    The Degrees of SCOTLAND.

    THE Government of the Scots, as that of the English, consists of a King, Nobility, and Commonalty.

    The King, (to use the words of their own Records) is, directus totius Dominii Dominus, di∣rect Lord of the whole Dominion or Domain; and hath Royal Authority and Jurisdiction over all the States of his Kingdom, as well Ecclesiastick, as Laick. Next to the King is his Eldest Son, who is stiled Prince of Scotland, and by a peculiar right is Duke of Rothsay, and Steward of Scotland. But the rest of the King's Children are called simply Princes.

    Amongst the Nobles, the greatest and most hono∣rable were in old times, the Thanes,* 1.12 that is, (if I have any judgment) those who were ennobled only by the office which they bore; for the word in the antient Saxon signifies, The King's Minister. Of these, they of the higher rank were called Ab-thanes; of the lower, Under-Thanes. But these Names by little and little grew out of use, ever since King Malcolm the 3. conferred the Titles of Earls and Barons, (borrow'd out of England from the Normans) upon such No∣blemen as had deserv'd them. Since when, in pro∣cess of time, new Titles of Honour have been much taken up, and Scotland, as well as England, hath Dukes, Marquisses, Earls, Viscounts, and Barons.* 1.13 As for the title of Duke, the first that brought it into Scotland was Robert the Third, about the year of our Lord 1400; as the honourable titles of Marquiss and Viscount, were lately brought in by our most gracious Sovereign King James the sixth. These are accoun∣ted Nobles of a higher degree, and have both place and voice in Parliaments, and by a special name, to∣gether with the Bishops, are called Lords.

    Amongst the Nobles of a lower degree, in the first place are Knights,* 1.14 who are certainly made with greater solemnity than any where else in Europe, by taking of an Oath, and being proclaim'd publickly by the Heralds. In the second, are those who are called Lairds,* 1.15 and commonly without any addition Barons, amongst whom none were antiently reckoned, but such as held immediately from the King Lands in Ca∣pite, and had the* 1.16 Jus Furcarum. In the third place are such as being descended of Honourable Families, and dignify'd with no certain title, are term'd Gen∣tlemen.* 1.17 All the rest, as Citizens, Merchants, Artifi∣cers, &c. are reckoned among the Commons.

    The COURTS of JUSTICE.

    THE supream Court, as well in dignity as authority, is accounted the Assembly of the States of the Kingdom, which is called a Par∣liament,* 1.18 by the same name as it is in England; and hath the same absolute Authority. It consists of three States, of the Lords Spiritual, that is, the Bishops, Ab∣bots, and Priors; of the Lords Temporal, viz. Dukes, Marquisses, Earls, Viscounts, and Barons; and the Commissioners for the Cities and Buroughs. To whom were joyned, not long since, for every County also, two* 1.19 Commissioners. It is called by the King at plea∣sure, allowing a certain time for notice before it is to sit. When they are convened, and the causes of their meeting are declared by the King and the Chancel∣lour, the Lords Spiritual retire apart, and choose eight of the Lords Temporal; the Lords Temporal like∣wise as many out of the Lords Spiritual. Then all these together nominate eight of the Knights of the Shires, and as many of the Burgesses; which all to∣gether make 32. and are called Lords of the Articles; and, with the Chancellor, Treasurer, Privy-Seal, the King's Secretary, &c. admit or reject all matters that are propos'd to the States, after they have been first communicated to the King. After they are appro∣ved by the whole Assembly of the States, they are throughly examined; and such as pass by a majority of Votes, are presented to the King, who by touch∣ing them with his Scepter signifies the confirming or vacating of them. But if the King dislikes any thing, it is first razed out.

    Next to the Parliament is the College of Justice,* 1.20 or as they call it, the Session, which King James 5. insti∣tuted, An. 1532. after the manner of the Parliament at Paris; consisting of a President, fourteen Senators, seven of the Clergy, and as many of the Laity, (to whom was afterwards added the Chancellor, who takes place first, and five other Senators,) three principal Clerks, and as many Advocates as the Senators shall think convenient. These are to administer justice, not according to the rigour of the Law, but with rea∣son and equity, every day except Sunday and Mon∣day, from the first of November to the fifteenth of March, and from Trinity Sunday to the first of Au∣gust. All the space between, as being the times of sowing and harvest, is Vacation, and intermission from Suits and matters of Law. They give judgment ac∣cording to Acts of Parliament; and where they are defective, according to the Civil Law.

    There are besides in every County, inferiour Civil Courts, wherein the Sheriff or his deputy decides con∣troversies amongst the inhabitants, about ejections, in∣trusions, damages, debts, &c. from whom, upon su∣spicion of partiality or alliance, they appeal sometimes to the Session. These Sheriffs are all for the most part hereditary. For the Kings of Scotland as well as of England, to oblige the better sort of Gentlemen more closely to them by their favours, in old time made these Sheriffs hereditary and perpetual. But the English Kings soon perceiving the inconveniencies happening thereupon, purposely changed them into annual. There are Civil Courts held also in the Fiefs of the Crown, by their respective Bailiffs, to whom the King hath graciously granted Royal privileges; as also in free Boroughs and Cities, by their Magi∣strates.

    There are likewise Courts called The Commissariat, the highest of which is kept at Edenborough: wherein before four Judges, actions are pleaded concerning matters relating to Wills, the right of Ecclesiastical Benefices, Tythes, Divorces, &c. and Ecclesiastical Causes of like nature. But in almost all the other parts of the Kingdom, there sits but one Judge on these Causes.

    In criminal Causes, the King's Chief Justice holds his Courts generally at Edenborough; which Office hath for some time been executed by the Earls of Ar∣gyle, who depute two or three Counsellors to take cognizance of actions of life and death, loss of limbs, or of goods and chattels. In this Court likewise the Defendant is permitted, even in case of High Trea∣son, to retain an Advocate to plead for him.

    Moreover, in criminal matters, Justices are some∣times appointed by the King's Commission, for deci∣ding this or that particular cause.

    Page [unnumbered]

    Also the Sheriffs in their territories, and Magistrates in some Boroughs, may sit in judgment of Manslaugh∣ter (in case the Manslayer be apprehended in the space of 24 hours,) and having found him guilty by a Jury, may put him to death. But if that time be once overpast, the cause is referred to the King's Justice, or his Deputies. The same privilege also some of the Nobility and Gentry enjoy against Thieves, taken within their own Jurisdictions. There are likewise who have such Royalties, that in criminal causes they may exercise a jurisdiction within their own li∣mits, and in some cases recall those that dwell within their own liberties from the King's Justice, provided they judge according to Law.

    These matters (as having had but a transient view of them) I have lightly touched upon. What manner of Country Scotland is, and what men it breeds,* 1.21 (as of old that excellent Geographer writ of Britain) will in a little time more certainly and evidently be shown, since the greatest of Princes hath opened a passage to it, which was so long shut up. In the Interim I will proceed to the Places, which is a subject I am more immediately concern'd in.

    GADENI or LADENI.

    UPon the Ottadini, or Northumberland, bordered the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, (Gadeni) who, by the turning of one letter upside down, are called in some Copies of Ptolemy Ladeni, seated in that Country lying between the mouth of the River Tweed and Edenborough-Frith,* 1.22 which is now cantoned into many petty Coun∣tries. The principal of them are Teifidale, Twedale, Merch, and Lothien, in Latin Lodeneium, under which general name the Writers of the middle age comprised them all. [a]

    TEIFIDALE.

    TEifidale, that is to say, the Valley or Dale by the Riverd 1.23 Tefy or Teviot, lying next to England, amongst cliffs of craggy hills and rocks, is inhabited by a warlike peo∣ple, who by reason of so frequent encounters between the Scots and English in former ages, are always ve∣ry ready for service and sudden invasions. The first place we meet with amongst these, is Jedburg, a Bo∣rough well frequented, standing near the confluence of the Tefy and Jed, from whence it takes its name; and Mailros,* 1.24 a very ancient Monastery, wherein, in the Church's infancy, were Monks of that antient instituion, that gave themselves to prayer, and with the labour of their hands earn'd their living. And more Eastward, where the Twede and the Tefy joyn in one stream,* 1.25e 1.26 Rosburg, called also Roxburgh, and in antient times Marchidun, from its being seated in the Marches; where stands a Castle, that by its natu∣ral situation, and tow'red fortifications, was in times past exceeding strong. Which being surprized by the English; while King James 2. of Scotland was be∣sieging it, he was untimely slain in the flower of his youth, by a piece of Cannon that casually burst. He was a Prince much missed and lamented by his Sub∣jects. Notwithstanding this, the Castle was surren∣der'd, and being mostly demolished, is now scarce to be seen. But the adjacent Territory (called from it the Sheriffdom of Roxborough* 1.27) hath an hereditary She∣riff of the family of Douglass, who is usually called the Sheriff of Teviotdale. And nowf 1.28 Roxborough, by the favour of King James 6. is also a Barony, in the per∣son of Robert Kerr,* 1.29 of the house of the Kerrs, a very noble and numerous family in this tract; from which are descended the Fernhersts, and others, who being educated in the school of Arms, have render'd them∣selves very illustrious.

    Twede* 1.30 aforesaid runs through the middle of a Val∣ley or Dale, that takes its name from it, abounding in sheep, whose wool is very valuable. This is certainly a Noble River; which having its source a∣mongst the hills more inwardly Westward, and run∣ning as it were with a streight Channel by Drimlar-Castle, by Peeblis* 1.31 a Market-Town* 1.32 (which hath for its Sheriff Baron Zester) as alsog 1.33 Selkirk* 1.34† 1.35 hard by (which hath one out of the family of Murray of Fallo-hill;) it receives the little River Lauder, upon which appearsh 1.36 Lauder, together with Thirlestan. Here Sir John Maitland, not long since Chancellor of Scotland, for his singular prudence created by K. James the 6. Baron of Thirlestan,* 1.37 hath a very beautiful seati 1.38. Then being increased by the accession of the River Teviot beneath Roxburgh, it watereth the Sheriffdom of Berwick, which is most of it the Estate of the Humes, wherein the Head of that Family exer∣ciseth now the Jurisdiction of a Sheriff: and then run∣ning under Berwick, the best fortified Town of Bri∣tain, (whereof I have already spoken) with a pro∣digious plenty of Salmon, it emptieth it self into the Sea. [b]

    MERCHIA, MERCH, or MERS.

    MErch, which is next, and so named be∣cause it is a March-Countrey, lieth wholly upon the German Ocean. Herek 1.39 Hume Castle first presents it self, the ancient possession of the Lords of Home or Hume; who being descended from the Earls of Merch, have spread themselves into a numerous and noble family. Of which, Alexander Hume, who was before Primier Baron of Scotland, and Sheriff of Berwick, was lately advanced by James, King of Great Britain, to the Title of Earl of Hume.* 1.40 Not far off, under this Castle, liethl 1.41 Kelso,* 1.42 formerly famous for a Monastery founded by King David the first among thirteen more, for the propagation of God's glory, but to the great impairing of the Crown Lands.

    Thence we have a prospect of Coldingham,* 1.43 called by Bede Coldana, and Coludi urbs, perhaps the Co∣lania* 1.44 of Ptolemy, consecrated many Ages since to professed Nuns, whose Chastity is recorded in an∣cient Writings, for their cutting off (together with

    Page [unnumbered]

    Ebba their Prioress) their Noses and Lips; chusing to secure their Virginity from the Danes, rather than preserve their Beauty: but they notwithstanding burnt them, together with their Monastery. Hard by is Fastcastle belonging to the Humes, so called from its strength, near the same St. Ebbe's Promontory, who being the Daughter of Edelfrid King of Nor∣thumberland, when her Father was taken Prisoner, seized upon a Boat in the Humber, and passing along the tempestuous Ocean, landed in safety here, be∣came famous for her sanctity, and left her name to the place.

    But Merch is much more celebrated in History for its Earls,* 1.45 than places; who were highly commended for their Martial Courage. They were descendants of Gospatrick Earl of Northumberland, who, after his being driven out of his Countrey by William the Conqueror, was entertained by Malcolm Conmer, that is, Great-head, King of Scotland, and honoured by him with Dunbar-Castle and the Earldom of Merch. His Posterity, besides very large possessions in Scot∣land, held (as appears by an old Inquisition) the Ba∣rony of Bengeley in Northumberland, that they should be Inborrow, and Utborrow, between England and Scotland. What the meaning should be of these terms, let others guess; what my conjecture is, I have said already. But in the reign of King James the first, George of Dunbar, the Earl of Merch, by au∣thority of Parliament, upon the account of his Fa∣ther's Rebellion, lost the propriety and possession of the Earldom of Merch, and the Seigniory of Dunbar. [ 1434] And when he proved by good Evidence, that his Father had been pardoned that fault by the Regents of the Kingdom, he was answered, that it was not in the Regents power to pardon an offence against the State; and that it was provided by the Laws, that the Father's transgression should succeed to the Chil∣dren, to the end that being Heirs to their Father's Rashness as well as Estate, they should not at any time, out of a vain opinion of power, plot against their Prince and Country. The Title of Earl of Merch was afterwards amongst other Ho∣nourable Titles conferr'd on Alexander Duke of Albany. And in our memory, this title of ho∣nour was reviv'd in Robert the 3. Brother of Matthew Earl of Lenox, who being of Bishop of Cathness made Earl of Lenox, soon after resigned up that Title to his Nephew created Duke of Lenox, and re∣ceived of the King, by way of recompence, the name and stile of Earl of Merch [c].

    LAƲDEN, or LOTHIEN.

    LOTHIEN, also called Lauden,* 1.46 and anciently from the Picts, Pictland, shoots out along from Merch as far as the Scottish Sea, or the Frith, having many hills, and little woods; but for its excellent Corn-lands, and civility, is com∣mended above any County in Scotland. About the Year of our Lord 873. Edgar King of England (between whom and Keneth the third, King of Scotland, there was a strict alliance against the Danes the Common Enemy) resigned up his right in this Lothian unto him, as Matthew Florilegus asserts; and to tie his heart the closer to him, He bestowed upon him moreover many Lodges in the way, wherein both he and his Successors, in their coming to the Kings of England, and return homewards, might be entertained, which till K. Henry the second's time remained in the hands of the King's of Scotland. In this Lothian, the first place that presents it self upon the Sea Shore is Dunbar,* 1.47 a Castle in ancient times very strongly for∣tify'd (the seat of the Earls of Merch before-men∣tioned, thence commonly called Earls of Dunbar* 1.48) often taken by the English, and recovered by the Scots. But in the Year 1567 it was demolisht by order of the States, to prevent its being a retreat for Rebels. But King James in the year 1515. conferr'd the Title and Honour of Earl of Dunbar, upon Sir Geo. Hume, for his approved Loyalty; whom he had created before Baron Hume of Berwick,* 1.49 to him, his Heirs, and Assignsm 1.50. Hard by, the little River Tine, after a short course, falleth into the Sea; near the source whereof stands Zeister,* 1.51 which hath its Baron of the Family of the Hays Earls of Arroll, who is like∣wise hereditary Sheriff of the little Territory of Twe∣dale, or Peblis. Upon the same rivulet some few miles higher, in a large plain, lies Hadington or Hadina, fortify'd by the English with a deep and large ditch, and a four square turf-wall without, with four bull∣warks at the Corners, and as many more upon the Inner wall; and as valiantly defended by Sir George Wilford an Englishman against Monsieur Dessie, who fiercely attaqu'd it with 10000 French and Germans; till the Plague growing hot and lessening the garison, Henry Earl of Rutland came with a great Army and rais'd the siege, and having levell'd the Works, con∣ducted the English home. And now of late K. James 6. hath, for his loyalty and valour, elected into the Nobility of Scotland Sir John Ramsey, (whose RIGHT HAND was the DEFENDER OF THE PRINCE AND COUNTRY in that horrid Conspiracy of the Gowries) under the title and honour of Viscount Hadington* 1.52n 1.53. Of this Hadington, J. Johnston hath these Verses;

    Planities praetensa jacet prope flumina Tinae, Fluminis arguti clauditur ista sinu. Vulcani & Martis quae passa incendia, fati Ingemit alterno vulnere fracta vices. Nunc tandem sapit icta. Dei praecepta secuta Praesidio gaudet jam potiore Poli. Near Tine's fair stream a spatious plain is shown, Tine's circling arms embrace the hapless town: Where Mars and fiery Vulcan reign'd by turns With fatal rage, whose dire effects she mourns. By sad experience now at last grown wise, She slights their fury and their power defies. Contemns the dangers that before she fear'd, And rests secure when mighty heaven's her guard.

    A little way from Hadington stands Athelstanford,* 1.54 so named from Athelstan, a Commander of the Eng∣lish, slain there with his men, about the year 815; but that this was Athelstan that Warlike King of the West-Saxons, must be utterly deny'd, if we have any respect to time, or [the manner of] his Death.

    Above the Mouth of this Tine, upon the doubling of the shore, stands Tantallon Castle; from whence Archibald Douglas [Earl] of Angus, was very trouble∣some to James 5. King of Scotland. Here, by the winding of the shores on both sides, room is made for a very Noble Arm of the Sea, well furnished with Isllands; and by the influx of many rivers and the Sea-tides, dilated to a mighty breadth. Ptolemy calls it Boderia, Tacitus Bodotria,* 1.55 from its depth, as I con∣jecture; the Scots the Forth and Frith; we Eden∣borough-Frith; others Mare Fresicum, and Mare Scoticum, and the Eulogium Morwiridh. Upon this, after you are past Tantallon,* 1.56 are seated, first North-Berwick, an∣tiently famous for a House of Religious Virgins; and then Drylton,* 1.57 which formerly belong'd to the eminent family of the Haliburtons, and now by the favour of K. James 6. gives the Title of Baron to Sir Tho. Eres∣kin Captain of his Guards; as Felton* 1.58 hard by gives the Honourable Title of Viscount to the same person; who was the first that had the stile and dignity of a Viscount in Scotland. Over against them, in the sea,

    Page 897-898

    near the shore, lies the Bass,* 1.59 an Island which rises up, as it were in one continued craggy rock, on every side inaccessible, yet it has a Fort, a fountain, and pasture-grounds; but is so hollow'd and undermined by the waves, that it is almost wrought through. What prodigious flights of sea-fowl, especially of those Geese they call Scouts* 1.60 and Soland-Geese, at certain times flock hither,* 1.61 (for by report, their number is so great as in a clear day to darken the Sun;) what multitudes of Fishes they bring (so as that 100 Soldiers in Garison here, liv'd upon no other provision but the fresh fish brought hither by them, as they give out;) what a quantity of sticks they convey for the building of their nests, (so that by their means the inhabitants are a∣bundantly provided with firing) what vast profit al∣so their feathers and oyl amount to: are things so in∣credible, that no one scarcely would believe it, but he that had seen it.

    * 1.62Then, as the shore draws back, Seton appears, which seems to take its name from its situation upon the Sea, and to have given one to the Right Honourable House of the Setons, descended of an English Family and a Daughter of King Robert Bruce; of which theo 1.63 Mar∣quiss of Huntley, Robert Earl of Wintoun,* 1.64 Alexander Earl of Dunfermling, all advanced to honours by King James 6. are Branches. [d]

    After this, the River Esk hath its influx into the Frith, having run by Borthwic,* 1.65 (which hath its Ba∣rons so sirnamed, of Hungarian extraction) by Nw∣bottle,* 1.66 that is, the new building, formerly a little Mo∣nastery, now a Barony, in the person of Sir Mark Ker; by Dalkeith,* 1.67 lately a pleasant seat of the Earls of Morton; and Musselborough,* 1.68 below which, upon Ed∣ward Seymour Duke of Somerset's entring Scotland with a * compleat Army,* 1.69 to challenge the performance of Articles for the marrying Mary Queen of Scotland to Edward 6. King of England, there happened a most dismal day to the youth of the noble Families in Scotland, who there fell in the battle. Here I must not pass by in silence this Inscription, which J-Napier, a learned person, in his Commentaries on the Apo∣calyps, informs us was here dug up; and which the eminently ingenious Sir Peter Young Knight, King James the 6th's Tutor, hath thus more truly de∣scribed.

    APOLLINI
    GRANNO
    Q. LVSIVS
    SABINIA
    NVS
    PROC.
    AVG.
    * 1.70 V. S. S. L V. M.

    Who this Apollo Grannus was, and whence he had this denomination, no one Antiquary, to the best of my knowledge, has ever yet told us. But if I, that am of the lowest form, may give my sentiments, I should say that Apollo Grannus, amongst the Romans, was the same as the Grecians 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, having long locks. For Isidore calleth the long hair of the Goths Granni. But this may be lookt upon as fo∣reign to my business.

    Something lower, near the Scottish Frith, stands Edenborough,* 1.71 called by the Irish-Scots Dun-Eaden, that is, Eaden Town, which without doubt is the same that Ptolemy calls 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Castrum Alatum, the winged Castle; for Edenborough signifies certainly the same as Winged Castle, Adain in the Bri∣tish denoting a Wing, and Edenborough (from a word compounded of the British and Saxon Tongue) is nothing else but the Winged Borough. From Wings therefore we are to derive its name; which if you think good, may be done, either from those Squa∣drons of horse which are called Wings, or else from those Wings which the Greek Architects call Pteromata, that is (as Vitruvius tells us) two walls, so rising up in height, that they bear a resemblance of Wings. For want of these, a certain City of Cyprus was antiently (as we read in the Geographers) called Aptera, that is, Wingless. But if any man hath a mind to believe it took its name from Ebrauk a Britain, or from Heth a Pict, he may for me; I shall not be against it. This City, in regard of its more eminent situation, the goodness of the air, and fertility of the soil, many of the Nobilities lofty Seats lying all round it, its being water'd with excellent Springs, and reaching from East to West a mile in length, and half as much in breadth; is justly counted the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom: strongly walled, adorned with publick and private buildings, well peopled and frequented for the advantage of the Sea, which the neighbouring Port at Leith affords. And as it is honoured with the King's residence, so is it the sacred repository of the Laws, and chief tribunal of Justice. For the high Court of Parliament is generally held here for the en∣acting or repealing of Laws; as also the Session, and the Courts of the King's Justice, and of the Commis∣sariat, (whereof I have already spoken) are here set∣tled. On the East side, joyning to Holy-Rood-Mona∣stery, stands the Palace Royal, built by King David the first; over which, within a Park stored with game, hangs a double-topt mountain, called Arthur's Chair, from Arthur the Britain. On the West side there mounts up a rock to a mighty height, steep and in∣accessible on all sides but that which looks towards the City; upon which a Castle stands, so strongly fortified with a number of Towers, that it is look'd upon as impregnable. This the Britains called Castle Myned Agned, the Scots the Maidens Castle, and the Virgins Castle, because the Princesses of the Blood-Royal of the Picts were here kept; and the same may really be lookt upon as the Castrum Alatum, or Winged Castle abovementioned.

    How Edenborough, by the vicissitudes of war, has been subject sometimes to the Scots, sometimes to the Saxons, who inhabited this Eastern part of Scotland, until it became wholly under the Scots Dominion in the year of our Lord 960. when the English Empire, under the convulsions of the Danish Wars, lay as it were expiring. How likewise (as it is in an old Book Of the Division of Scotland, in the Library of the Right Honourable my Lord Burleigh, late High-Treasurer of England) In the Reign of Indulph, Eden Town was* 1.72 quitted, and abandonned to the Scots to this present day; and what different turns of fortune it felt afterwards: the Historians relate, from whom you are to be infor∣med. † In the mean time you may read,* 1.73 if you please, the ingenious Johnston's Verses in praise of Edenborough.

    Monte sub acclivi Zephyri procurrit in auras, Hinc Arx celsa, illinc Regia clara nitet. Inter utram{que} patet sublimibus ardua tectis Urbs armis, animis clara, frequens{que} viris. Nobile Scotorum caput, & pars maxima regni, Paenè etiam gentis integra Regna suae. Rarae artes & opes, quod mens optaverit, aut hic Invenias, aut non Scotia tota dabit. Compositum hic populum videas, sanctum{que} senatum, Sancta{que} cum puro lumine jura Dei. An quisquam Arctoi extremo in limite mundi, Aut haec aut paria his cernere posse putet? Dic, Hospes, postquam externas lustraveris urbes, Haec cernens, oculis credis an ipse tuis? Beneath a Western hill's delightful brow, The Castle hence, and hence the Court we view. The stately town presents it self between, Renown'd for arms, for courage, and for men. The kingdom's noblest part, the lofty head, Or the whole kingdom of the Scottish breed. Wealth, arts, and all that anxious minds desire, Or not in Scotland, or you meet with here. The people sober, grave the Senate show, The worship pure, the faith divinely true. In the last borders of the Northern coast What rival land an equal sight can boast?
    These glories, Trav'ler, when at last you see, Say if you don't mistrust your wondring eye, And think it transport all and extasy!

    Page 899-900

    A mile from hence lieth Leith,* 1.74 an excellent Ha∣ven upon the River Leith, which when Monsieur Dessie had fortified with works to secure Edenborough, by the conflux of people thither, from a mean Vil∣lagep 1.75 it grew to a large Town. Again, when the French King Francis 2. had married Queen Mary of Scotland, the French (who then made themselves sure of Scotland, and began now to gape after Eng∣land) in the year 1560, strengthned it with more fortifications. But Q. Elizabeth of England, upon the solicitation of the Scotch Nobility of the Puritan party, effected by her wisdom and authority, that both they retuned into France, and these their for∣tifications were levell'd with the ground; and Scot∣land ever since hath had little cause to fear the French. [e.]

    In the mid'st of this Frith, where it begins by de∣grees to contract it self, there stood (as Bede noteth) the City Caer-Guidi,* 1.76 which seems now to be Inch-Keith-Island. Whether this be the Victoria mentioned by Ptolemy, I will not now dispute, though a man might be easily induced to believe, that the Romans turn'd this Guith into Victoria, as our Isle Guith or Wight, into Victesis and Vecta. Certainly, since both these are broken from the shore, there is the same rea∣son for the name in both languages. For Ninius in∣forms us, that Guith in the British Tongue signifies a breaking off or separation. Upon the same Frith, more inwardly, lies Abercorne, a famous Monastery in Bede's time; which now, by the favour of King James 6. gives the Title of Earl to James Hamilton.* 1.77 Just by stands Blackness Castle;* 1.78 and beneath that southward, the ancient City of Lindum, which Ptolemy takes notice of, by the learned call'd yet Linlithquo,* 1.79 but commonly Lithquo, adorn'd with a fine House of the Kings, a noble Church, and a Lake plentifully stock'd with Fish; from which Lake it seems to derive its name; for Lin, as I hinted be∣fore, in British sounds as much as Lake.* 1.80 It had for∣merly an Hereditary Sheriff of the House of Ha∣milton of Peyle; but its first Earl, in our memory, was Alexander Levingston, advanc'd by K. James 6. from the dignity of a Baron (which his Ancestors had long been honour'd with) to that of an Earl; as a little after Mark Ker, Baron of Newbottle, was to the title of Earl of q Lothian.* 1.81 [f].* 1.82

    Additions to the GADENI.

    [a]. WHether the People inhabiting those four Counties mentioned by our Author, were call'd Gadeni and Ladeni, is a point not so uni∣versally agreed upon. Indeed, they seem to be no other than those call'd by Mr. Camden according to different Copies, Ottadini, Ottadeni, and Ottalini; and by that Learned Gentleman Drummond of Haw∣thernden, Scottedeni, upon a supposition that the ini∣tial letters Sc. were probably either quite gone, or so obscur'd as not to be legible; by which means the Transcribers might be drawn into an error. How∣ever, that they are to be carried farther Northward than Northumberland (to which Mr. Camden has confin'd them,) is plain from Ptolemie's fixing that Curia (the place remarkable amongst them) in the 59th degree of latitude. And in a village in Mid-Lothian call'd Cutrie, there seem to be plain remains of the old Curia; as there are of the Ottadeni, Scot∣tedeni, &c. in Caer Eden, now call'd Carriden, in West-Lothian, where was found a Medal of Titus Vespasian in gold, with some Roman Urns, and a Stone with the Head of an Eagle engraven upon it. Dun-Eden also, the ancient name of Edenburgh, seems to point out to us that ancient People, and to prove that their bounds extended as far as the water of Eden, calld yet by some Eden-water. About the mouth where∣of, at a place called Inner-Even, are yet to be seen some remains of ancient Buildings.

    [b]. The Shire of TEVIOTDALE,* 1.83 compre∣hending under it Lidesdale, Eusdale, and Eskdale, is in length from Reddinburn on the east to Anandale on the west, about 30 miles, and the breadth from the border to the blue Cairn in Lawdermoor, about 14 or 15. It is a good soil, extraordinary well mixt with Grass and Corn, and water'd with several rivu∣lets that run into Tiot and Tweed. The Valley-grounds abound with Corn, short of few Shires in Scotland, for the goodness of the grain; so that great quanti∣ties of it are frequently transported into England.

    Free-stone and Lime they have in great abundance. The high grounds are furnish'd with excellent grass, and produce great store of cattel of all kinds, and of the best broods in Scotland, both for largeness and goodness.

    Nor does this County want it's remains of Roman Antiquity: for here are some vestigia of their encampments, and a military way runs from Hownam to Tweed call'd the Roman Causey, and by the vulgar the Rugged Causey.

    The Mountains* 1.84 most eminent in it are Cokraw, from which there runs a tract of hills westward, di∣viding Scotland from England; which are only pas∣sable at some places. There is another tract of hills going from Harewell, which run along to Craucross, being 12 miles; and in the body of the Shire, are Rueburgh-Law, Mynto-hill, and Hadinton-hills.

    They have the Regalities* 1.85 of Jedburgh-forest belong∣ing to the Marquiss of Douglas; the Regality of Hawick belonging to Bacleugh, and the Regality of Melross in the person of the Earl of Hadington.

    Several ancient Families of Gentlemen inhabit this County, and those of very considerable Estates. The Sherifdom (for 'tis governed by a Sheriff) is in the Family of Douglas, Sir William Douglas of Kevers being hereditary Sheriff.

    In this Shire they have 3 Presbyteries,* 1.86 Jedburgh, Kelso, and Melross.

    Within this compass our Author likewise includes the Shire of Peebles* 1.87 or Tweedale, so call'd from the river Tweed, which rising at a place called Tweed's cross, runs east the whole length of the Shire, and for the most part with a swift stream. 'Tis bounded on the east with Etrick forest; on the south with part of the Forest, St. Mary Lough, and Anandale; on the west with the overward of Clidesdale; and on the north with part of Caldermoor, the head of North Esk and Mid-Lothian. In length it is 26 miles, and where broadest does not exceed 16. In which com∣pass are 17 Parish Churches, that make up a Pres∣bytery, call'd The Presbytery of Peebles.

    The Countrey is generally swell'd with hills, many of which are green and grassy, with pleasant and fertil valleys between, well watered and adorned with Gentlemen's houses. Their grain is generally oats and barley; and as for planting, they have little of it, except about the houses of the Gentry.

    The Head Burgh of the Shire is Peebles,* 1.88 a Burgh Royal, seated in a pleasant plain on the side of the river, with a stately bridge of five arches over the Tweed, and a fine Church.

    As to Antiquity; the place called Randall's-trenches* 1.89 seems to have been a Roman Camp; and there is a Causey leads from it, for half a mile together to the town of Lyne.

    Next to Peebles our Author barely mentions Selkirk,* 1.90 which yet is a Sherifdom, called otherwise The She∣rifdom of Etrick forest, because formerly it was wholly covered with woods, which were well furnished with Harts, Hinds, and Fallow Deer, but now they are in a great measure destroyed. On the north 'tis bounded partly by Tweedale, and partly by the Rega∣lity of Stow in Mid-Lothian; on the east and south by Teviot-dale; and on the west partly by Teviotdale, and

    Page 901-902

    partly by Annandale. The body of the Shire is very near Quadrangular, and the Diameter every way a∣bout 16 miles. The Inhabitants have generally strong bodies, being sober and frugal in their diet; and living mostly by feeding of Cattle: whereby they do not only support themselves, but maintain a good Trade in England with their Wooll, Sheep, Cows, &c.

    [c] As the MERS* 1.91 has its present name from being the boundary or march between England and Scot∣land; so was it also call'd Berwickshire, because the town of Berwick was formerly the chief burrough thereof; which was afterwards given away by King James the third upon capitulation, for redemption of Alexander Duke of Albany. But (if we may believe some Scotch Authors) one more ancient than either of these, was Ordolucia, and that of the Inhabitants Ordolutae, a branch of the Scottedeni.

    It is the south-east Shire of all Scotland, bordering upon the sea; and divided from Berwick by the Bound-rod; from Northumberland by the river Tweed, running between them for about eight miles. This river is one of the 3 that rise out of the same tract of hills; Clide runs west towards Dumbarton; Anand, south towards Solway-sands; and this, east towards Ber∣wick. It is of a swift couse, environ'd with hills, running through Tweedale-forest and Teviotdale before it go into the Ocean. It's current is above 50 miles: in all which compass it hath only two bridges; one at Peebles of 5 arches, and another at Berwick of 15. It had one at Melross; the pillars whereof are yet standing; and another is intended at Kelso.

    The length of this County is 20 miles from Lam∣berton to Ridpeth on the south-side, and from Cock∣burns-path to Seeinghill-kirk on the north-side. But take the length anglewise, 'tis from Lamberton to Lau∣clugh, direct east and west, 24 miles. It's breadth is about 14 miles, whether you take it on the west-end, south-end, or middle of the Shire.

    It is divided into three parts, Mers,* 1.92 Lammermoor, and Lauderdale. The Mers is a pleasant low ground, ly∣ing open to the influence of the sun, and guarded from storms by Lammermoor. So that the soil is fertil, and affords great plenty of oats, barley, wheat, pease, &c. with abundance of hay. Lammermoor* 1.93 is a great tract of hills on the north-side of the Shire, above 16 miles in length, and 6 at least in breadth; abounding with moss and moor. The west end of them, for four miles together, belongs to Lauderdale; the rest of it eastward is almost equally parted between East-Lothian and Mers. The peculiar use of this tract, is pasturage in the summer time, and the game it af∣fords by the abundance of Partridge, Moor-fowl, Plover, &c. But the product of these parts is not reckoned so good as of others, being generally sold at a lower rate. Lauderdale* 1.94 is a tract of ground ly∣ing on each side of the water of Leider, abounding with pleasant haughs, green hills, and some woods; well stor'd also with corn and pasturage.

    The Judicatories* 1.95 in this Shire are; 1. The Sherif-Court, which sits at the town of Duns. 2. The Com∣missariot, which sits at Lawder. 3. The Regality of Thirlstan, belonging to the Earl of Lauderdale. 4. The Regality of Preston, and Forest of Dye, belonging to the Marquiss of Douglas. 5. The Lordship of Coldingham and Stewartry of March, belonging to the Earl of Hume; who is Sheriff, and has his residence at Hirsell.

    The more remarkable places, besides those men∣tioned by our Author, are, Duns,* 1.96 a burgh of Barony, standing upon a rising ground in the midst of the Shire. Every Wednesday it has a great market of Sheep, Horses, and Cows; and is famous for being reputed the birth-place of Joannes Duns Scotus. A Gentle∣man, a Laird of that name, is still there. Eymouth,* 1.97 the only port in the Shire for shipping; which was forti∣fied by the French in Queen Mary's minority. Er∣silton* 1.98 or Earlstown, famous for the birth of Thomas Ler∣mouth, called Thomas the Rymer. Hume, for the Castle, now demolish'd. Caldstream,* 1.99 a market town lying close upon Tweed. Greenlaw,* 1.100 a burgh of Barony, with a weekly market. Fouldon, a large town. Rosse,* 1.101 famous for it's harbour and plenty of fish. Aton, situate upon the water of Ey. White-coat,* 1.102 where is a harbour for herring-fishing.

    About Bastenrig on the east-hand, and the Moristons and Mellerstoun downs on the west, they frequently take the Dotterel,* 1.103 a rare Fowl, towards the latter end of April and beginning of May.

    [d] Next the Mers, along the south of the Firth or Forth, lies the country call'd LOTHIAN; having Mers to the east; part of Lammermoor, and part of Lauderdale, with the Forest and Tweedale, to the south; part of Clidsdale and Stirlingshire to the west, and to the north the Firth or Forth. It is in length from Cockburns-path in the east, to the Shire of Clids∣dale, about 57 miles; and where 'tis broadest, be∣tween 16 and 17 miles over. To what our Author has said in commendation of it, may be added it's number of Towns, with seats of the Nobility and Gentry, wherein it goes much beyond the rest of Scotland. 'Tis divided into 3 distinct Tracts, call'd East-Lothian, Mid-Lothian, and West-Lothian.

    East-Lothian* 1.104 or the Constabulary or Shire of Ha∣dington, (so called from Hadington one of the three burghs-Royal, and seat of the Courts) is in length about 22, and in breadth about 12 miles, bounded by the Firth on the north and east, by a tract of hills called Lammermoor on the south, and by Mid-Lothian on the West. It abounds with corn of all sorts, has good store of grass, with some considerable woods, as Prestmennan, Colston, Humbie, and Ormestan; and abundance of Coal and Lime-stone. It has good store of Sheep, especially towards the hills of Lammermoor, and by west Lammerlaw: and from the west part to the sea all along to the east, it abounds with Conies. It hath many Salt-pans, wherein much white Salt is made; and at New-Milns there is a considerable manu∣factory of broad-cloath. The sea-coast is accommo∣dated with many convenient harbours, and has the advantage of several Fish-towns; particularly, at Dumbar, and on the coast thereabout, every year after Lammas there is a Herring-fishing, where they take great numbers, not only to serve the Inhabitants, but also for exportation.

    The first considerable place we meet with in this tract is Dunglas,* 1.105 a pleasant seat on the sea-coast, which formerly belonged to the Earl of Hume, but has now another owner. In the time of the late Wars, a garison was kept there by the Earl of Ha∣dington, for the Army; who (with 30 Knights and Gentlemen of the name of Hamilton, besides several other considerable persons) perished in the ruines of this house. For it was designedly blown up in the year 1640 by Nathaniel Paris an Englishman, one of his own servants, while the Earl was reading a Letter in the Court, which he had then received from the Army, with all the Gentlemen about him. Only four of the whole Company escaped, who by the force of the powder were thrown to a great distance from the house. 'Tis now repaired, and adorned by Sir John Hall, the present possessor, with curious Gardens, spacious Courts, and a large and pleasant Avenue. They have here a Collegiate Church, a goodly large building and vaulted; but 'tis now rui∣nous. Along the Coast, to Dunbar, is a pleasant Country, the most fruitful in the Kingdom, espe∣cially in Wheat and Barley.

    South-east of Dumbar (a Burgh-royal in this Shire) is Dunhill,* 1.106 memorable for the victory obtained, Sept. 30. 1650. over the Scotch-Army under Lesly, by a handful of men (and those too but sickly) under the command of Cromwell. Which miscarriage (if some ingenuous persons, who were in the Action may be believed) was rather owing to the treachery of some great men, than any conduct or bravery of the Enemies.

    The most considerable Houses,* 1.107 are Brocksmouth, the chief residence of the Earl of Roxburgh. Tining∣ham, the residence of the Earl of Hadington; near which there is a quarry of Marble. Seaton and Win∣ton, the houses of the Earl of Winton.

    The Templars, and after them the Knights of Rhodes and Malta, had a residence in this Shire at St. Ger∣mains. It has at present two Presbyteries, of Ha∣dington and Dunbar.

    Page 903-904

    [e] The Sheriffdom of Edenburgh, commonly cal∣led Mid-Lothian,* 1.108 is the principal Shire of the King∣dom; and is in length 20 or 21 miles; the breadth of it is different according to the several parts, in some 16 or 17 miles, in others not above 5 or 6. On the south it is bounded with the Sheriffdom of Hadington for 13 miles together; on the east with the Baillery of Lauderdale for about four; on the south with the Sheriffdom of Twedale for 13 miles; on the south-west with the Sheriffdom of Lanerick for 6 or 7 miles, and on the west for two miles by the said Sheriffdom; on the north-west with the Sheriff∣dom of Linlithgow for 14 miles; and on the north with the Firth or Forth for the space of 8 miles.

    This tract is abundantly furnished with all necessa∣ries; producing a great deal of corn of all sorts, and affording good pasture for cattle. It has very much coal and lime-stone, as also a sort of soft black marble; and some few miles from Edenburgh, near the water of Leith, they have a Copper-mine.

    Edenburgh,* 1.109 is not only the most considerable place in those parts, but the chief City of the King∣dom of Scotland. The Romans could not well have made choice of a better place for a Fortification; for the rock on which the present Castle is situated, is inaccessible on all sides, except the East.

    The first building of a Fort here, seems to have given Rise to the town, and to have encouraged the neighbours to fix under the protection of it. So that the houses and inhabitants by little and little increas∣ing, have brought it down to the very foot of the ascent toward the east, and made it an entire Scotch mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. The ascent upon which the City stands, has on the north-side a pool call'd the North-Loch, and was formerly guarded by another on the south, call'd the South-Loch, as appears from the leases of some houses of S. Ninian's Row that are let with the privilege of a boat annext. But this is drain'd many years ago; and upon the banks of it are built two several tracts of houses. The City has six Gates, the principal whereof, to the East, was magnificently rebuilt in the year 1616, and adorned with Towers on both sides. Two streets run along the whole length of the town. The High-street from the Castle to the Abby (said to be the broadest in Europe) is of late built of hewen stone; since by an Act of the Town-Council, they have been prohibited to build any more of Timber either in the City or Suburbs, upon account of the many Fires which have happened.

    And as the private Buildings,* 1.110 so also the publick do very much exceed those in other parts of that King∣dom. In the middle of the City is St. Giles's Church,* 1.111 a Cathedral, built of hewn stone, and adorned with stone-pillars and vaultings. 'Tis so large as to be di∣vided into 3 Churches, each whereof has its Parish. Besides this,* 1.112 they have the South-Church, in the Church-yard whereof, amongst many other monu∣ments, is that of Sir George Mackenzy. The Trone-Church, built in 1641. The Collegiate Church of the Sacred Trinity, built by Mary of Gueldres, King James the Second's Queen. The Lady Yester's Church, built and endowed by one of the Lady Yesters: and another very beautiful one, built within these 5 years. To these we must add two Chapels, St. Mag∣dalens and St. Mary's, with another at the foot of the Canon-gate.

    Next to these are their Hospitals,* 1.113 St. Thomas's and Heriot's Hospital. In the first, the poorer sort of In∣habitants are maintained very handsomly, and have their own proper Chaplain. The second (so called from the founder George Heriot, Jeweller to James 6.) is a stately Fabrick like a Palace. In the inner Fron∣tispiece is the Statue of the Founder erected; and round about the houses are pleasant gardens, adorned with large Walks and Greens. 'Tis a Nursery for boys, wherein the children of the poorer Citizens have their education, till they be fit for the publick Schools and Colleges.

    * 1.114Near the Cathedral-Chuch, is the Parliament-house, standing in a great Court, which on one side is enclosed with the upper and lower Exchange, and with a tract of very stately buildings. Here is one of the highest houses perhaps in the world, mounting seven stories above the Parliament-Court, and being built upon the descent of a hill, the back-part is as far below it; so that from the bottom to the top, one stair-case ascends 14 stories high. In the middle of the Court, is the Statue of King Charles II. in brass, erected upon a stately Pedestal at the charge of the City.

    On the South-side is the College of King James the sixth, founded in the year 1580, and endowed with all the Privileges of an University. The precincts are very large, and the whole is divided into 3 Courts, adorned on all sides with excellent buildings, two lower, and one higher which is as large as both the other. They have their publick Schools, and a Common-hall wherein Divinity, Hebrew, and Mathematicks are taught. Their Library is well stor'd with printed books, and and has some Manuscripts: under that is the King's Printing-house. The Students have very good ac∣commodation, and the Professors neat and handsom Lodgings, with very good Gardens for their recreation.

    The Royal-Palace* 1.115 (whereof his Grace the Duke of Hamilton is hereditary Keeper) hath four Courts. The Outer-Court, which is as big as all the rest, has four principal Entries. 'Tis on all hands bounded with lovely Gardens: on the south, lies the King's Park, which hath great variety of medicinal plants. The Entry of the Palace is adorned with great pil∣lars of hewn stone, and a Cùpilo in fashion of a Crown, above it. The forepart is terminated by four high towers, two towards the north erected by King James V. and the rest by King Charles II. The Inner-Court has Piazza's round it all of hewn stone. But above all, the Long-Gallery is most re∣markable, being adorned with the pictures of all the Kings of Scotland from Fergus I.

    About 20 years ago,* 1.116 the Magistrates were at great expence to bring one of the best Springs of Scotland into the City; which they did by leaden Pipes from a Hill at above 3 miles distance. And to make it more convenient, they have erected several stately Fountains in the middle of the High-street to serve the town with water.

    There is here also a College of Justice, which hath its Dean of faculty. They try their Intrants [or Candidates] and have a Bibliotheque well furnished with Books of Law and History.

    King Charles the second did likewise erect at Edin∣burg a College of Physicians, giving them by a Pa∣tent under the Great Seal an ample Jurisdiction within this City and the Liberties thereof, appointing the Judicatures to concur to the execution of their De∣creets; by a latter Grant they have the faculty of professing Physick. They have their conferences once a month for the improvement of Medicine, and have begun to erect a Library. Near to this City is Leith, a convenient harbour for Ships.

    As this Country has at present several considerable Houses (whereof Hawthornden is famous for its caves hewen out of the rock, and Roslin for the* 1.117 stately Chapel;) so can it produce some remains of Antiquity. For near the Town of Cramond, (at which Salmon and several other Fish are taken) many stones have been dug up with Roman Inscriptions. Also in the grounds of Inglistown, belonging to Hugh Wallace, were found not long ago two stones, parts of a Pillar; upon one of which is a Lawrel-Crown, upon the other (the longest of the two) there is on each side, the Roman Securis. The name of the Emperor is broken off; but by the progress of the Roman Arms described by Taci∣tus, it appears to have been set up in the time of Julius Agricola's government. And since only the Empe∣ror's name is struck off, and it appears that by order of the Senate the Statues and Inscriptions of Domitian were defaced; one may probably conclude that 'twas erected in honour of that Emperor. What remains of it, is this:

    AVG. COS. IV.
    GERMANICVS
    PONTIFEX. MAX.

    These Stones are to be seen in the Garden at Edin∣burgh, belonging to Sir Robert Sibbalds, Doctor of Physick.

    Page 905-906

    Next the Antiquities,* 1.118 that noted spring two miles south of Edinburgh, deserves our notice. The name of it is St. Catharine's-Well, though 'tis commonly call'd The Oily Well, because it sends up along with the wa∣ter an Oil or Balsom which swims upon it. 'Tis found by experience to be exceeding good not only for the cure of Scabs, but likewise of any pains proceeding from cold, as also for strengthening and putting life into any decaying part. It has two Presbyteries, Edin∣burg and Dalkeith.

    [f] The Shire of LINLITHGOW, call'd West-Lothian,* 1.119 takes it's name from Linlithgow, the head burgh, and has on the north the Forth, is divided from Mid-Lothian toawrds the south and east by the waters of Almond and Breichwater: to the north-west it meet∣eth with part of Stirlingshire, and to the west with part of Clidisdale. 'Tis in length 14 miles, and in breadth about nine. It affords great plenty of Coal, Lime-stone, and of White Salt; and in the reign of King James 6. a Silver Mine was found in it, out of which they got a great deal of Silver.

    The Town of Linlithgow,* 1.120 mentioned by our Au∣thor,* 1.121 is a Royal-burgh, well built, and is accommo∣dated with Fountains that furnish water to the Inhabi∣tants, with a stately Town-house for the meeting of the Gentry and Citizens, and with a harbour at Black∣ness. But it's greatest ornament is the King's house, which stands upon a rising ground that runs almost into the middle of the Loch, and looks like an Am∣phitheater; having Terras-walks (as it were) and a descent from them, but upon the top where the Castle stands, it is a plain. The Court has apartments like towers, upon the four corners; and in the midst of it a stately fountain adorned with several curious statues, the water whereof rises to a good height. The Levingstons, Earls of this place, are hereditary Keepers of it; as they are also hereditary Bailifs of the King's Bailifry, and hereditary Constables of the King's Castle of Blackness. Near the Palace, upon a level with it, stands the Church, a curious work of fine stone.

    Nor ought we to omit Borrostoness,* 1.122 north from hence upon the sea-coast, erected into a burgh of Regality by his Grace the Duke of Hamilton; who hath in the neighbourhood his castle of Kineil, of late adorned with large Parks and stately Avenues. Torphichen,* 1.123 to the south of Linlithgow, deserves also our notice, as being a burgh of Regality, and once the residence of the Knights of Malta; but now giveth the title of Lord to the chief of the name of Sandilands. And Bathgate,* 1.124 the parish whereof is erected into a Sherifdom by it self.

    And as the Towns, so also some Houses of note require our mention. Nidry-Castle,* 1.125 southwest from Linlithgow, upon a river, the Manor of Sir Charles Hope, who by these lands is hereditary Bailif of the Regality of Kirkliston, and by the Barony of Aber∣corn is hereditary Sheriff of the Shire. And north from thence, Dundass,* 1.126 formerly a fortification, now adorned with parks and fine gardens, wherein are many curious Plants by the care of that worthy Gentleman Mr. Patrick Murray, the owner there∣of, who, whilst he lived, was the ornament of his Countrey. From whence to the west, between this and Linlithgow, is the Bins,* 1.127 the residence of Gene∣ral Dolzll, adorned by his Excellence with Avenues, large Parks, and fine Gardens. After he had pro∣cured himself a lasting name in the Wars, here it was that he fix'd his old Age, and pleased himself with the culture of curious Flowers and Plants. And up∣on the same coast, Medop,* 1.128 the residence of the Earl of Linlithgow, famous likewise for its fine Gardens, which the father of the present Earl enclosed with high walls, furnish'd with Orange-trees, and such like cu∣rious Exoticks.

    But from the present places to descend to those of Antiquity: at the east end of the enclosure of the Kipps,* 1.129 south from Linlithgow, there is an ancient Al∣tar of great stones unpolish'd, so placed as each of them does support another, and no one could stand without leaning upon another. Hard by it, there are several great stones set in a Circle, and in the two adjacent hills the remains of old Camps, with great heaps of stones and ancient Graves.

    Some miles also to the west of Queens-Ferry upon the sea-coast, is Abercorn-Castle,* 1.130 near which place Bede tells us the Roman wall began. One may trace it along towards Cariddin, where a figured stone is to be seen, and a gold Medal was found. In a line parallel, about a mile to the south of this, there is a Village which still keeps the remains of the old wall, being called Walltoun. From the name and the artificial Mount cast up there, one would believe it to be the very place which Bede calls Penvalltoun. The track of the wall appears in several places be∣tween this and Kinweill, and from thence to Falkirk; but we need not here be particular in the Description of it, designing a separate discourse upon that subject, at the end of this Kingdom.

    SELGOVAE.

    BEneath the Gadeni to the South and West (where now lie the small Territories of Liddesdale, Eusdale, Esk∣dale, Annandale, and Nidisdale,q 1.131 so called from Rivulets running through them, which all lose themselves in Solway-Frith) were anciently seated the Selgovae; the reliques of whose name seem to me, whether to others too I knw not, to remain in the name Solway.

    IN Liddesdale* 1.132 we have a high prospect of Armitage, so called because anciently dedicated to a soli∣tary life. But now it is a very strong Castle, which belonged to the Hepburnes, who deduce their Original from a certain English Captive, whom the Earl of March, for delivering him out of a danger, much enriched. They were Earls of Bothwell,* 1.133 and for a long time Admirals of Scotland by inheritance. But by a sister of James Earl of Bothwell, last of the Hepburnes,* 1.134 married to John Prior of Colding∣ham, a natural son of K. James 5. (who had se∣veral such issue;) both title and estate devolved to his son. Hard by is Brakensey,* 1.135 the seat of the war∣like Family of Baclugh,* 1.136 sirnamed Scot, with many other little Forts of men of Arms up and down the Country.

    In Eusdale,* 1.137 I should be apt to think from the affi∣nity of the name, that the ancient Uzellum* 1.138 mention∣ed by Ptolemy, lay upon the River Euse.

    In Eskdale,* 1.139 some are of opinion that the Horesti* 1.140 dwelt; into whose borders Julius Agricola, after he had subdued the Britains that inhabited this Tract, led the Roman Army; especially if we read Horesci for Horesti. For the British Ar-Esc signifies a place by the River Eske. As for Aesica in Eskdale, I have spoken of it before in England, and need not re∣peat it here. [a].

    Page 907-908

    ANNANDALE.

    JOined to this on the west-side lies Annandale,* 1.141 that is the Valley or Dale upon the river An∣nan, into which the access by land is very dif∣cult. The places of greatest note are, a Castle upon Lough-Maban,* 1.142 which is three parts surrounded with water, and strongly walled. And Annandale Town, almost upon the very mouth of the river Annan, divested of all its glory by the English War in the reign of Edward 6.

    In this Territory the Jonstons* 1.143 are men of greatest name, a family born for Wars; between whom and the Maxwells (who by ancient right preside over the Stewartry,* 1.144 for so 'tis term'd) there hath been too long an open enmity and defiance, even to blood∣shed. This Valley Edgar King of the Scots, upon his restoration to his Kingdom by the Auxiliaries he had out of England, gave for his good services to Robert Brus,* 1.145 Lord of Cleaveland in the County of York; who bestowed it, by the King's permission, upon Robert his younger son, being unwilling himself to serve the King of Scots in his Wars. From him are branched the Bruses Lords of Annandale, of whom, Robert Bruse married Isabella the daughter of William King of Scots by the daughter of Robert Avenel: his son likewise, Robert the third of that name, married the daughter of David Earl of Hun∣tingdon and Garioth; whose son Robert sirnamed the Noble, upon the failure of the issue of Alexander the third, King of Scotland, challenged in his mother's right the Kingdom of Scotland, before Edward I. K. of England (as the direct and superior Lord of the Kingdom of Scotland, as the English give out; or, as an Honorary Arbitrator, as the Scots will have it) as being more nearly related in degree and bloud to King Alexander the third, and to Margaret daughter to the King of Norway, although a second sister's son. Who soon after resigning up his own right, granted and gave over to his son Robert Brus Earl of Carrick, and to his heirs, (I speak out of the very Original) all the right and claim which he had or might have to the King∣dom of Scotland. But the point was determined in favour of John Baliol (who sued for his right, as descended from the eldest sister, though in a more remote degree,) in these words: Because the person more re∣mote in the second degree descending in the first line, is to be preferred before a nearer in the second line, in the suc∣cession of an inheritance that cannot be parted.

    Nevertheless, the said Robert, son to the Earl of Carriot, by his valour possess'd himself of the King∣dom, and establish'd it in his posterity. A Prince, who as he was illustrious for his glorious Actions, so did he successfully triumph over Fortune, (so often his Adversary) with a courage and presence of mind in∣vincible. [b].

    NIDISDALE.

    CLose to Annandale on the West lies Nidisdale, abounding in arable and pasture grounds; so named from the River Nid,* 1.146 by Ptolemy falsely written Nobius, for Nodius or Nidius, of which name there are other Rivers in Britain full of muddy shallows, as this Nid is. It springs out of the Lake Lough-Cure, upon which stood anciently Corda,* 1.147 a Town of the Selgovae. It takes its course first by Sanqhar, a Castle of the Creightons,* 1.148 who were long honoured with the Title of Barons of Sanqhar, and the authority of hereditary Sheriffs of Nidisdale: next by Morton,* 1.149 which gave the Title of Earl to some of the family of Douglass, of which others are seated at Drumlanrig upon the same River; near the mouth whereof stands Dunfreys* 1.150 between two Hills, the most flourishing Town of this Tract, which still shews its ancient Castle; a Town famous for its woollen Ma∣nufacture, and remarkable for the murder of John Commin, a man of the greatest Interest amongst the Scots, whom Robert Brus, lest he should oppose his coming to the Crown, ran through in the Church, and easily got a pardon of the Pope for a murder com∣mitted in a sacred place. Nearer to its mouth, Solway, a Village, still retains somewhat of the old name of Selgovae. Upon the very mouth is situated Caer-La∣verock,* 1.151 Ptolemie's Carbantorigum, a Fort looked upon as impregnable, when K. Edw. I. accompanied with the flower of the English Nobility, besieged and took it. But now 'tis a weak Mansion-House of the Ba∣rons Maxwell, who being of ancient Nobility, were long Wardens of these Western Marches, and lately advanced by a marriage with a Daughter and Coheir of the Earl of Morton; whereby John Lord Max∣well was decared Earl of Morton; as also by the Daughter and Heir of Hereis Lord Toricles, whom J. a second son, took to wife, and had by her the title of Baron Hereis.* 1.152 In this valley also, upon the lake, lies Glencarn,* 1.153 of which the Cunninghams, about whom I shall speak under another head, long bore the title of Earls. This Nidisdale, together with Annandale, breeds a warlike sort of people, but infamous for their depredations. For they dwell upon Solway, a fordable Arm of the Sea, through which they often made excursions into England for booty; and in which the Inhabitants on both sides, a pleasant fight and sport, hunt Salmons* 1.154 (whereof there is great plenty) with spears on horseback, or, if you had rather call it so, fish for them.

    What manner of Cattle-stealers they are that inhabit these Valleys in the Marches of both Kingdoms, John Lesley, a Scotchman himself, and Bishop of Ross, will inform you. They sally out of their own borders in the night in troops, through unfrequented by-ways, and many intricate windings. All the day time they refresh themselves and their horses in lurking holes they had pitch'd upon before, till they arrive in the dark at those places they have a design upon. As soon as they have seized upon the booty, they in like manner return home in the night thro' blind ways, and fetching many a compass. The more skil∣ful any Captain is to pass through those wild Desarts, crooked turnings, and deep precipices, in the thickest mists and darkness, his reputation is the greater, and he is looked upon as a man of an excellent head. And they are so very cunning, that they seldom have their booty taken from them, unless sometimes, when by the help of Bloud∣hounds following them exactly upon the track, they may chance to fall into the hands of their adversaries. When being taken, they have so much persuasive Eloquence, and so many smooth insinuating words at command, that if they do not move their Judges, nay and even their Ad∣versaries (notwithstanding the severity of their natures) to have mercy, yet they incite them to admiration and com∣passion. [c].

    Page 909-910

    Additions to the SELGOVAE.

    [a] THree of those branches which our Author makes part of the ancient Selgovae, viz. Eusdale, Eskdale, and Lidesdale are reckoned part of the Shire of Rosburgh. That the Horesti mention'd by Tacitus, were seated in the habitations of the se∣cond of these (as our Author conjectures) is not by any means probable, if we consider the circumstan∣ces of that Action. It was in the latter end of his Government, that he led his Forces against them: whereas, we find, that even in his fourth year, all to the South of that neck of land between the two Friths, was added to the Roman Province; so that we must go further northward to seek for them. And Tacitus himself in effect, forbids us to look after them hereabouts, when he says, that the people against whom Agricola was then fighting, were the Populi Caledoniam incolentes, and Novae Gentes; namely, those beyond the Friths, who by the fortification of that neck of land, were Semoti velut in aliam insulam, i.e. Driven as it were into another Island. So that if the relation the Horesti may have to Esk be of any moment, it would better suit the people dwelling be∣tween South-Esk, and North-Esk in Angus. But that name really seems to imply no more than 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Mountaineers or High-landers.

    [b] The other two Branches, Annandale and Ni∣disdale, to which we may also add Wachopdale, make up the Shire of DUMFRISE;* 1.155 taking its name from from the chief burgh of the Shire. On the west it hath Galloway and Kyle, on the east 'tis bounded with Solway-Frith, and the March of Scotland and Eng∣land; on the north with part of Clidsdale, Twedale, and Tiviotdale, and on the South with the Irish-sea. From west to south-east, 'tis about fifty miles long; and in breadth about thirty four. The Inhabitants were a stout warlike People, in former times the bul∣wark of the Kingdom. The soil generally is not so good for corn as pasturage; so that they deal most∣ly in Cows and Sheep, which turn to considerable gain.

    [c] ANANDALE* 1.156 runs in a streight line from west to east, about twenty four miles in length, and fourteen in breadth. Their tradition about the Lough-Maban (mentioned by our Author) is, that a Castle stood formerly in the middle of it: that which now stands upon the brink is going to decay. The town of Logh-Maban* 1.157 is a Royal burgh, situate upon the south side of the water of Anan, in the middle of the Country. Near the source of which river stands Moffet,* 1.158 famous for its medicinal-well.

    Between Anandale and Eskdale lyeth WACHOP∣DALE,* 1.159 so called from the water of Wachop running through it; and is much of the same nature with the adjacent Countries already described. The most an∣cient monument remarkable hereabouts is St. Ruth's Church, where is a Pillar curiously engraven; with some Inscription upon it. Near this place the peo∣ple have a way of making salt of Sea-sand; and the salt is something bitterish, which probably proceeds from the niter in it.

    Another branch of Dumfrise is NIDISDALE,* 1.160 encompassed with a ridge of Hills on all sides, and in the bottoms has abundance of Corn. It is di∣vided into the Overward, containing the Parishes in the Presbytery of Penpont; and the Netherward, con∣taining those of Dumfrise Presbytery. Here Sanchar* 1.161 is famous for its Castle, the residence of the Duke of Queensbury, who hath built a noble house at Drumla∣nerick, and is now adorning it with stately avenues, gardens, and Terras-walks. Within this tract also is Dumfrise,* 1.162 upon the river Nith, over which there is a stone bridge of nine arches. The streets are large, and the Church and Castle very stately. For the convenience of Trade (which is much helpt by the tide flowing up to the town, and making a harbor) they have an Exchange for the Merchants.

    NOVANTES.

    NExt to Nidisdale, the Novantes inhabited that tract in the Valleys which spreads it self a great way to∣wards the West, yet so hollow'd with Creeks, that now and then it is streightned into a narrow breadth, and again, at the farthest end, loosens and widens it self out with greater liberty; whence some have call'd it the Chersonessus, or Peninsula, of the Novantes. But now their Country contains, Galloway, Carick, Kyle, and Cunningham.

    GALLOWAY.

    GAlloway,* 1.163 in Latin writers of the middle age, Galwallia and Gallovidia (taking its name from the Irish, who were its ancient in∣habitants, and called themselves short in their own language Gael) is a hilly Country, better for feeding of Cattle than bearing of Corn. The Inha∣bitants follow Fishing, as well in the sea round about, as in the rivers and loughs that stand every where un∣der the hills; in which, about September, they catch an incredible number of excellent Eels in their * Weeles,* 1.164 by which they are no less gainers, than by their little truss Naggs,* 1.165 which upon account of the compactness of their bodies, and their enduring of labour, are much bought up here.* 1.166 Amongst these, the first place that presents it self upon the river Dea (menti∣oned by Ptolemy, which yet keeps its name, being call Dee) is Kircowbright,* 1.167 the most convenient haven of this Coast, and one of the Stewartries of Scotland, which belongs to the Maxwells. Then Cardines, a Fort upon the river Fleet, built upon a craggy and high rock, and fortify'd with strong Walls. Hard by, the river Ken (by Ptolemy Jena, but corruptly) falls into the Sea. Next, Wigton, a Port with a very narrow entrance between the two streams, Baiidnoo and Crea, reckoned among the Sheriffdoms, over which* 1.168 Ag∣new of the Isle presides. It formerly had for its Earl, Archibald Douglas, famous in the French War; and now hath (by the favour of King James) John Fleming, who derives his pedigree from the ancient Earls of Wigton.* 1.169

    Near this, Ptolemy fixes the City Leucopibia,* 1.170 which I know not really where to look for. Yet by the place, it should seem to be that Episcopal See of Ninian, which Bede calls Candida Casa, and the

    Page 911-912

    English and Scots in the same sencea 1.171 Whit-herne. What then, if Ptolemy, as he did usually, translate Candida Casa,* 1.172 which was the name the Britains gave it, into 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 in Greek, that is, white Houses; instead of which, the Transcribers have obtruded Leucopibia upon us. In this place Ninia or Ninian,* 1.173 the Britain, a holy man, (the first that instructed the Southern Picts in the Christian Faith, in the reign of Theodo∣sius the Younger) had his residence, and built a Church, dedicated to St. Martin, the form whereof (as Bede observes) was contrary to the British build∣ings. The same Author tells us, that the English in his time, held this Country, and when the number of the Faithful encreased, an Episcopal See was erect∣ed at this Candida Casa. A little higher there is a Pe∣ninsula, with the Sea insinuating it self on both sides, which by a narrow neck is joyned to the main land. This is properly call'd Novantum Chersonessus and Promontorium* 1.174 commonly the Mull of Galloway.

    Beyond this Northward, is an open Bay full of Islands, and of a mighty compass; into which abun∣dance of rivers on all sides have their influx. But first of all from the very point of the Promontory, A∣bravanus, which being a little misplac'd, is so term∣ed by Ptolemy, for Aber-ruanus, that is, the mouth of the river Ruan. For at this time 'tis call'd the river Rian, and the Lake out of which it runs, Lough-Rian, admirably well stockt with herrings, and a sort of* 1.175 Gudgeons.

    This Galloway had its own Princes and Lords* 1.176 in ancient times; of whom the first recorded in Chro∣nicle, was Fergusius, in the reign of Henry the first of England, who gave for his Arms, A Lion Rampant Argent, crowned [Or] in a Shield Azure. After ma∣ny Troubles he had raised, he was driven to such streights by King Malcolm, as to give his Son Uch∣tred for an hostage, and being grown weary of the world, to take upon himself the habit of a Canon at Holyrood House at Edenborough. As for Uchtred, Gilbert his younger brother took him Prisoner in a fight, and after he had cut out his Tongue, and pulled out his Eyes, most miserably deprived him both of life and estate. But within some few years after Gilbert was dead, Roland, the Son of Uchtred reco∣vered his father's inheritance; who, of a sister of William Morvill, Constable of Scotland, begat Alan, Lord Galloway, and Constable of Scotland. Alan, by Margaret, the eldest daughter of David Earl of Huntingdon, had Dervogilda, the wife of John Bal∣liol, and mother of John Balliol, King of Scotland, who contended with Robert Brus for that Kingdom, and by a former Wife, as it seems, he had Helen, married to Roger Quincy, an English man, Earl of Winchester, who upon that account, was Constable of Scotland; as was likewise William Ferrers, of Gro∣by, grand-son of the said Roger, by a daughter and coheir. But these English soon lost their inheritance in Scotland, as also the dignity of Constable; which the Commins, Earls of Bughuan had,* 1.177 descended like∣wise of a daughter of Roger Quincy, untill it was transferred unto the Earls of Arrol. Butb 1.178 the title of Lord of Galloway fell afterwards to the Family of Douglass. [a]

    CARRICT.

    CArrict follows next, a Country fruitful in pastures, and abundantly furnished with commodities both by land and sea. Here Ptolemy places bothc 1.179 Rerigonium a creek, and Rerigonium a Town. For which, in a very anci∣en Copy of Ptolemy, printed at Rome in 1480, we have Berigonium:* 1.180 So that I cannot chuse but think it was that which is now called Bargeny.* 1.181 A Lord it hath, of the Family of the Kennedyes* 1.182 (which came out of Ireland in the reign of Robert Brus) noble, nu∣merous, and powerful in this tract. The head of it is Earl of Cassils,* 1.183 the name of a Castle upon the Ri∣ver Dun, which is his seat; upon whose banks he hath another call'd Dunnur Castle; he is likewise he∣reditary Bailiff of this Province.* 1.184 For this, with Kyle and Cunningham, are the three Baileries of Scotland; because they that govern these with ordinary power and jurisdiction, are called Bailiffs, a term coin'd in the middle age, and signifies amongst the Greeks, Sicilians, and French, a Conservator or Keeper.* 1.185 But Carrict, in former times had its Earls. Not to men∣tion Gilbert of Galloway's Son (to whom King Willi∣am gave Carrict entire, to be possessed for ever) we read that Adam of Kilconath, about 1270, was Earl Carrict, and died in the Holy War; whose only Daughter Martha fell deeply in love with Robert Brus, a beautiful young Gentleman, as she saw him a hunt∣ing; made him her Husband, brought him the title and estate of Earl of Carrict, and bore him Robert Brus, that famous King of Scotland, the founder of the royal Line. But the title of Earl of Carrict be∣ing for some time left to the younger Sons of the Fa∣mily of Brus, afterwards became an addition to the other Honors of the Princes of Scotland.

    KYLE.

    KYle is next, lying more inwardly upon the Bay, a plentiful Country, and well inha∣bited.* 1.186 In Bede's Auctarium (or Supple∣ment) it is called Campus Cyel, and Coil; where it is recorded, that Eadbert, King of the Nor∣thumbers, added this, with other Territories, to his Kingdom. In Ptolemy's time,d 1.187 Vidogara* 1.188 was a place of note here; perhaps Aire,* 1.189 which is a She∣riffdom, a little Mart, and a well known Port upon a river of the same name* 1.190. Concerning which, I can meet with nothing better worth my writing, than these Verses sent me by Mr. Johnston.

    Parva urbs, ast ingens animus in fortibus haeret, Inferior nulli nobilitate virum. Aëris è campis haurit purissima coelum Incubat & miti mollior aura solo.

    Page [unnumbered]

    Aëria hinc, non Aera priùs, credo, illa vocata est, Cum duris quid enim mollia juris habent? Infera cum superis quod si componere fas èst, Aurea fors dici debuit illa prius. Small is the town, but of great Souls is prowd, For courage fam'd, and sons of noble blood. From th'happy clime, pure draughts of air descend, And gentle breezes bless the fruitful land. Old times (if Poets have a right to guess) Not Aeria, but Aëria call'd the place, Rough brass could ne're such soft delights express. If I so high might raise my noble theme, I'd swear that Aurea was the ancient name.

    Besides the River Aire, there are two other Rivu∣lets that water this small Territory, having many lit∣tle villages scattering upon their banks: Lougar, upon which the Crawfords, and Cesnock, upon which the Cambells have their residence, noted families in this tract; upon whose bank is also Uchiltre-Castle,* 1.191 the Seat of the Stewarts of the blood Royal, as descend∣ing from the Dukes of Albany, hence stiled Barons of Uchiltre; of which House was that Robert Stewart, the inseparable companion of the Prince of Conde, who was kill'd with him in a battle in France. Cam∣bel of Louden enjoys the honour of Hereditary Bailiff of this Kyle.

    CƲNNINGHAM.

    TO Kyle, upon the West and North, is joyn∣ed Cunningham, and so hems in the same Bay, that it streightens its hitherto expati∣ating breadth. The name signifies as much as the King's habitation; whence you may conjecture its pleasantness. It is water'd by the Irwin, which divides it from Kyle; at the head almost of which river, we have a sight of Kilmarnock, the Seat of the Barons Boids.* 1.192 In the reign of King James the third, Thomas, one of these, was by a gale of Court-favor, advanced to the authority of Regent, and Robert his Son, to the Honour of Earl of Arran, and a marri∣age with the King's Sister. But upon the same gale's blowing contrary, they were adjudged enemies to the State; Robert had his Wife taken from him, and given to James Hamilton; their Estates were confisca∣ted; and stript of all by the inconstancy of fortune, they died in exile. Yet their posterity recover'd the ancient honour of Barons, and enjoy it at this day. Upon the mouth of the river Irwin stands,* 1.193e 1.194 a Bo∣rough, with a Port so choaked up with banks of sand, and so shallow, that it is only capable of small Vessels. Higher up stands Ardrossan,* 1.195 a Castle of the Montgomeries, hanging (as it were) over the bay; this is an ancient and noble family, which can shew, as a proof of their Marshal valour, Poununy-Castle, built out of the ransom-money of Henry Percy, sirnamed Hot∣spur, whom J. Montgomery took with his own hand in the Battle at Otterburne, and brought away Pri∣soner. Not far from Ardrossan is Largis, embru'd in the blood of the Norwegians by King Alexander the third. From whence, following the winding of the shore, we meet with Eglington-Castle, once pos∣sessed by Gentlemen of that name, from whom it descended to the Montgomeries,* 1.196 who take hence the title of Earls of Eglington.* 1.197

    But whence this Sirname came, is hard to guess. That out of Normandy it came into England, and that there were several Families of that name, I am satisfied. But that in Essex, from which Sir Thomas Montgomery, Knight of the Garter, in the reign of Edward the fourth, was descended, gave Arms but a little different from these.

    But this noble House hath dilated it self very much, and out of those of Gevan was that Gabriel de Lorges, called Earl of Montgomery, Captain of the Scotch Guard du Corps* 1.198 (that was instituted by Charles the fifth, King of France, for a Guard to him and his Successors, as a signal mark of their fidelity and fa∣vour) who in a Tournament slew Henry the second King of France, with a Splinter of his Spear, which (his Beaver chancing to be up) penetrated through the eye into his brain. Afterwards, taking part with the Huguenots in the Civil wars of France, he was inter∣cepted and beheaded. But the Family of the Cun∣ninghams is accounted the most numerous in this Tract; the head whereof, the Earl of Glencairn,* 1.199 hath a Seat at Kilmauris, and derives his descent out of England, from an English Gentleman, who, toge∣ther with others, murdered Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury. How true this is, I know not, but per∣haps it may be grounded upon a probable conjecture taken from an Archbishop's Pall, which they give in their Coat of Arms. [b]

    The Island GLOTTA or ARRAN.

    WIthin sight of Cunningham, amongst many other Islands, Glotta is of greatest eminence; an Island men∣tioned by Antonine the Emperor, in the very Frith of the river Glotta or Clyde; called at this day from a Castle of the same name, Arran. The innermost parts are wholly mountainous, but the bottoms along the shore are well inhabited. The first Earl it had,* 1.200 that I ever read of, was Robert Boid, whose wife and Earldom together, upon Boid's being banished the Kingdom, James Hamilton (as I menti∣oned before) obtained, and his Posterity have en∣joyed the same; saving that of late James Steward, appointed Guardian to James Hamilton, Earl of Ar∣ran (when he was so defective in his understanding, that he could not manage his Estate) took this Title in the right of being guardian.

    Near unto this stands Buthe, called from a little Religious Cell founded by Brendanus (for so in Scotch the call a Cell) which has a Sheriff of the Family of the Stewarts. In this Island is Rothesay-Castle, which gives the Title of Duke to the eldest Son of the King of Scotland (who is born Prince of Scotland, Duke of Rothsay, and High Steward of Scotland) ever since King Robert the third invested David his eldest Son, Duke of Rothsay; who was the first in Scotland that was honoured with the Title of Duke. With which Title Queen Mary honoured Henry Lord Darley, be∣fore she took him to be her Husband. After this, in the same Bay, we have a sight of Hellen, antiently Hellan-Leneow, that is, (according to J. Fordon's in∣terpretation, The Saints Island the Hellan Tinoc; that is, the Island of Hogs, with many others of less note.

    Page [unnumbered]

    Additions to the NOVANTES.

    [a] THE Country of the Novantes, is Galloway, and the Sheriffdom of Aire.

    Galloway hath upon the south the Irish Sea; upon the west, the Frith of Clyde; upon the north, Carick and Kyle, and to the north-east the river of Nith. 'Tis in length, from North-east to South-west, about seventy miles; in breadth, from North to South, in some places 24 in others 20. and in others only sixteen. It is divided into the Higher and Lower Country. The Higher lyes between the water of Cree and the point or Mule, making the Sheriffdom. The Lower takes up the rest, namely, all upon the water of Cree, making the Stewardry of Kilcumbright. The plenty of pastures induces them to keep vast flocks of Sheep; as also of Cows, which they send into England in great numbers, when there is no Pro∣hibition.

    [b] The second part of the Novantes is said to be the Sheriffdom of Aire (so called from the Town of Aire, the head Burgh of the shire) though the north part of this tract seems rather to have belonged to the Damnii.

    The country is bounded on the north by the Shire of Rainfrew, on the south with Galloway, on the east with Clidsdale, and on the west with the Frith of Clyde. It generally produces good store of Corn and Grass, is very populous, and the Inhabitants of it are exceeding industrious.

    'Tis divided into three Baileries, Carick, Kyle, and Cunningham. The most considedrable Loch in it, is that of Dun, six mile in length, and two in breadth, with an Isle in it, upon which is an old house, call'd Castle-Dun. Upon the Water Down is a bridge of one arch, ninety foot long.

    But the most noted place in these parts is Aire, the chief market-town, in the west of Scotland.* 1.201 * It's situation is in a sandy plain; yet hath it pleasant and fruitful fields, with Greens which afford a good pro∣spect both winter and summer. The Church is stately enough, and there is a bridge of four arches which joyns it to the New-Town, seated on the north side of the water.

    The ancient name of this Aire was St. John's Town, but that is now lost. By the King's Patent, it is the Sheriff's Seat, having within its Jurisdiction thirty two miles.

    A mile north of the Town, not far from the sea-shore, there is a Lazer-house, commonly called the King's Chapel, which King Robert de Brus set apart for the maintenance of Lepers.

    DAMNII.

    BEyond the Novantes along the River Glotta and Cluyde, and farther up even to the very Eastern sea, dwelt the Damnii; and if I have any judgment, (for who can give the certainty of things at such a distance, and in so much obscurity?) in Cluydesdale, the Barony of Renfraw, Lenox, Sterling, Menteith, and Fife.

    CLƲYDESDALE.

    NEAR the head of the Cluyde,* 1.202 in Craw∣ford-Moor among the wasts, certain Hus∣bandmen of the Country, after violent Rains, happened to find a sort of shavings of Gold; which hath long given great hopes of much riches, more especially in our times, since B. Bul∣mer hath undertaken with great application to find out a Mine of Gold.* 1.203 They certainly dig up daily* 1.204 the Lapis Lazuli with little or no labour. Craw∣ford-Castle, together with the title of Earl of Craw∣ford,* 1.205 was conferr'd by K. Robert the 2. on James Lindesay; who in a single Combat with Baron Welles an Englishman, got much commendation for his va∣lour. The Lindsays have generally deserved well of their Country, and are of antient Nobility; ever since William Lindesay married one of the Heirs of William de Lancaster, Lord of Kendal in Eng∣land, whose great grand-daughter was married into the honourable family of Coucy in France. The Cluyd, after, with much strugling, it hath forced its way Northward by the seat of Baron Somervill,* 1.206 re∣ceives from the West the river Duglas or Douglas, so called of its dark greenish water. This river gives name to the Valley through which it runs, called Douglasdale, and to the Castle therein, which gives its name to the family of Douglass. This family is very antient, but hath been most eminent ever since James Douglas* 1.207 stuck always very close to King Robert Brus, and was ever ready with extraordinary courage, and singular prudence to assist him, while he claim'd the Kingdom in those troublesom times; to him it was that the same Robert gave his heart in charge to be conveyed to the Holy Land, for the performance of his Vow. In memory whereof the Douglasses* 1.208 has inserted a Man's heart in their Coat of Arms. Since when, this family hath grown up to such mighty power and greatness (especially after William's being created Earl of Douglass by David the 2.) that they have awed even the Kings themselves: for almost at the same time, it had six Earls of it, viz. of this Douglas, of Angus, Ormond, Wigton, Murray, and of Morton; amongst whom the Earl of Wigton for his Martial valour, and in requital of his good services, was honour'd by K. Charles the 7. of France, with the Title of Duke of Tourain,* 1.209 and left the same to two Earls of Douglass his heirs.

    Above the confluence of the Douglas and the Cluyde, lies Lanerick,* 1.210 the hereditary Sheriffdom of the Hamiltons, who owe their name to Hamilton-Castle, seated somewhat higher upon the Cluyd's bank, in a place extremely pleasant and fertile †,* 1.211 but their ori∣ginal is from England, as they give out, from a cer∣tain Englishman, sirnamed Hampton, who taking part with Robert Brus, received from him large possessi∣ons in this tract. Their Estate was much augmented by King James the 3d's liberality, who gave his own eldest sister (after he had taken her from Boid) in mar∣riage to James Hamilton, together with the Earldom of Arran: but their Honours, by the States of the Kingdom, who after the death of King James 5. or∣dained James Hamilton, this Lord's Grandson, Regent of Scotland, who was likewise made Duke of Chasteau-Heralt* 1.212 in Poictou, by Henry the 2. King of France: as also by K. James 6. who created his son John, Marquiss of Hamilton,* 1.213 a title new, and never us'd be∣fore in Scotland.

    The Glotta or Cluyd runs from hence by Bothwell,* 1.214 proud of its Earls, viz. John Ramsey, too great a creature of K. James the 3d's, to his own and the Prince's ruin; and the Hepburns, of whom before. Then it runs streight through Glasgow,* 1.215 antiently a Bishop's see, but long discontinued, till restored by

    Page 917-918

    K. William. Now an Archbishoprick and an Uni∣versity,* 1.216 founded by Bishop Turnbull, who for the ad∣vancement of Religion, built a College here. It is the most celebrated Mart of this Tract, much com∣mended for its pleasant situation and plenty of Fruit; having also a handsome bridge supported with eight Arches* 1.217. Of which, thus J. Johnson.

    Non te Pontificum luxus, non Infula tantum Ornavit, diri quae tibi causa mali, Glottiadae, quantum decorant Te, Glascua, Musae, Quae celsum attollunt clara sub astra caput. Glotta, decus rerum, piscosis nobilis undis, Finitimi recreat jugera laeta soli. Ast Glottae decus, & vicinis gloria terris, Glascua faecundat flumine cuncta suo. Not haughty Prelates e'er adorn'd thee so, Nor stately Mitres cause of all thy woe, As Cluyd's muses grace thy blest abodes, And lift thy head among the deathless gods. Cluyd, great flood! for plenteous fish renown'd, And gentle streams that cheer the fruitful ground.
    But happy Glascow, Cluyd's chiefest pride, Glory of that and all the world beside, Spreads round the riches of her noble tide.

    On this side the Cluyd, upon its banks, lies the Barony of Reinfraw,* 1.218 so called from its principal Town, which may seem to be Ptolemy's Randvara;* 1.219 on the River Cathcart, upon which the antient Baron of Cathcart* 1.220 hath his habitation. Near adjoyning (for this little Province is full of Nobility) lies Cruikston,* 1.221 antiently the seat of the Lords of Darley, from whom by right of marriage it came to the Earls of Lenox; whence Henry the Father of King James the 6. was call'd Lord Darley. Halkead, the residence of the Ba∣rons of Ros,* 1.222 descended originally of English bloud, as deriving their Linage from that Robert Roos of Warke, who left England, and came under the Al∣legiance of the King of Scots. Paslay,* 1.223 formerly a famous Monastery founded by Alexander the 2d, High Steward of Scotland, inferior to few for its no∣ble Church, and rich furniture* 1.224: But now by the favour of K. James 6. it gives a seat, and the title of Baron to Claud Hamilton, a younger son of the Duke of Castle-Heralt. And Sempill, whose Lord is Baron Sempill,* 1.225 and by antient right Sheriff of this Barony. But I have read, that the title of Baron of Reinfraw, by a peculiar right belongs to the Prince of Scot∣land. [b]

    LENNOX.

    ALong the other side of the Cluyd, above Glascow, Levinia or Lennox, runs a long way Northward, amongst a continued se∣ries of hills; taking its name from the River Levin, Ptolemy's Lelanonius,* 1.226 which falleth into the Cluyde, out of Logh-lomund,* 1.227 a Lake, that dilates it self under the mountains, twenty miles long, and eight miles broad, excellently well stocked with fish, especially one sort peculiar to it,* 1.228 (they call it Pollac.) It hath likewise many Islands in it, concerning which there use to be many Traditional stories amongst the ordinary sort of people. As for the Floating-Island here, I shall not call the truth of it in question; for what should hinder a body from swimming, that's dry and hollow like a pinace, and lighter than ordina∣ry.* 1.229 Pliny tells us, that certain green Islands cover'd with reeds and rushes, float up and down in the lake of Vadimon. But I leave it to the Neighbours, that know the nature of this place, to be Judges, whe∣ther this old Distick of our Nechm be true or no:

    Ditatur fluviis Albania, saxea ligna Dat Lomund multa frigiditate potens. Scotland's enrich'd with Rivers, Timber thrown Into cold Lomund's waters, turns to stone.

    There are many Fishermens Cottages round about upon the banks of the Logh; but nothing worth our notice, except Kilmoronock,* 1.230 a fine House of the Earl of Cassil, seated upon the East side; which hath a delicate prospect into the Logh. But at the influx of the Levin, out of the Logh into the Cluyde, stands Al-Cluyd,* 1.231 so called by the antients. Bede observes, that it signifies the Rock Cluyde, but I know not in what language. Ar-Cluid in the British certainly sig∣nifies upon Cluid, and Cluid in old English signify'd a Rock. Succeeding ages call'd it Dunbritton,* 1.232 that is, the Britains Town, (and corruptly by a transposition of letters,* 1.233 Dunbarton,) because the Britains held it a long time against the Scots, Picts, and Saxons. For both by nature and situation, it is the strongest Castle in all Scotland, fixt upon a craggy two-headed Rock, at the confluence of the Rivers, in a green plain. Upon one of its heads, stands a high Watch-Tower; on the other, which is somewhat lower, many strong Towers. It hath but one ascent to it, and that on the North-side, between the two heads; having scarce room enough to pass one by one, by steps cut out of the rock crosswise with a world of labour. Upon the West-side, the Levin; upon the South, the Cluyde serve instead of ditches. Eastward lies a Morass, which every Tide is wholly under wa∣ter. Towards the North it is very well secur'd by the steepness of its situation. Here some remains of the Britains, who (as Gildas writes) generally retreated for shelter, and entrench'd themselves upon the tops of craggy inaccessible mountains in thick Forrests, and Rocks upon the Sea shore, presuming upon the natural strength of the place, and their own Courage, defended themselves after the departure of the Romans, for 300 years, in the very midst of their Enemies. For in Bede's time (as he himself writes) it was the best fortify'd City the Britains had.* 1.234 But in the year 756. Eadbert King of Northumberland, and Oeng King of the Picts, with their joynt Forces shut it up on every side, and drove it to that extremity, that it was surrender'd upon Articles. Of this place, the Territory round about is called the Sheriffdom of Dunbarton, and hath long had the Earls of Lennox for Sheriffs, by inheri∣tance.

    Now, as for the Earls of Lennox* 1.235 (not to mention those more antient) one Duncan was Earl of Lennox in the Reign of Robert the 2. who died, and left two only Daughters behind him: One of which was mar∣ry'd to Alan Stewart,* 1.236 who was descended from Ro∣bert, a younger son of Walter the 2. High Steward of Scotland, and a Brother of Alexander Stewart the 2. founder of the royal line of Scotland. For this il∣lustrious Family took its name from that Honourable Office of High Steward of the Kingdom, that is, he that had the charge of the Revenues of the Crown. This Alan had issue John Earl of Lennox, and Robert made Captain of the Scotch Guard du Corps,* 1.237 (first rais'd by the French King, Charles the 6.) in recom∣pence of the good services that nation had done the Crown of France; as also Lord of Aubigny in Au∣vergne by the same King, as a reward of his valour. John had issue Matthew Earl of Lennox, who marry'd the daughter of James Hamilton by Mariona, daugh∣ter to King James the 2. by whom he had John Earl of Lennox; who taking up arms to deliver King James the 5. out of the hands of the Douglasses and Hamiltons, was kill'd by his Uncle the Earl of Arran. This John had issue, Matthew Earl of Lennox, who after many troubles in France and Scotland, found fortune more agreeable in England, by the favour of K. Henry the 8. when he bestow'd upon him his sister's daughter in marriage, with a large estate. The issue of this happy match were Henry and Charles; Henry, by Mary Queen of Scots, had James the 6. King of Great Britain,* 1.238 born by the propitious favour of heaven, at a most lucky juncture, to unite in one Imperial Body the British World, divided before as

    Page 919-920

    well in it self, as from the rest of mankind; and (as we hope and pray) to lay a sure foundation of ever∣lasting security for childrens children, for ever. As for Charles, he had issue, one only daughter, Arabella, a Lady that made so great progress in learning above the usual capacity of her sex, as led her to true vir∣tue, with the highest praise and commendation, and made her fit to be compar'd with the Ladies of anti∣ent times. When Charles was dead, after the Earl∣dom of Lennox (whereof he stood enfeoffed) was by authority of Parliament revoked in the year 579. and his Uncle Robert, Bishop of Cathness, had bore this title for some time, (in lieu whereof he had of the King the honour of Earl of March,) King James conferr'd the title of Duke of Lennox upon Esme Stu∣art, son of John Lord D'Aubigny, the second Bro∣ther of Matthew Earl of Lennox aforesaid; which his son2 1.239 Lodowick (or Lewis) enjoys at this day. For since the reign of Charles the 6. there were of this line Lords of Aubigny* 1.240 in France, the said Robert be∣fore-named, and Bernard, or Eberard (under Charles the 8. and Lewis the 12.) transmitted to posterity by [Paulus] Jovius with much commendation for his valiant performances in the War of Naples. He was a most faithful companion of Henry the 7. when he came for England; and used for his Device a Lion* 1.241 between buckles, with this motto, Distantia Jungit, be∣cause by his means the Kingdom of France and Scot∣land, so far distant,* 1.242 were joyned together by a strict league of Friendship: As likewise Robert Stewart, Lord D'Aubigny of the same family, a Marescal of France under Lewis XI. who for the same reason us'd the Royal Arms of France with Buckles Or in a Bordure Gules; which have been ever since born3 1.243 by the Earls and Dukes of Lennox [c].

    STERLING Sheriffdom.

    STerlingshire borders to the North-east upon Len∣nox, so named from its principal Town: for the fruitfulness of its soil, and the great resort of Gentry, outdone by no County in Scot∣land. Here is that narrow neck of Land, by which Glotta and Bodotria, or (to use the language of these times) Dunbritton Frith, and Edenborough Frith, Arms of different seas, coming a great way up, are kept from joyning. Which Julius Agricola, who went thus far and farther, first observ'd, and fortified this streight with Garisons; by which means all Britain on this side, was then in the Romans possession; and their Enemies removed, as it were into another Island; so that Tacitus was right in his judgment, that there was no other bound of Britain to be sought for. Nei∣ther indeed, in after times, did either the Valour of their Armies, or the Glory of the Roman name, (which could scarce be stopped) push on the limits of their Empire farther in these parts; although they harrassed them ever now and then with inrodes. But then, after this glorious expedition, Agricola was recall'd, and Britain (as Tacitus says) lay neglected, nor was possession of it kept thus far. For the Caledonian Britains drove the Romans back as far as the River Tine; insomuch, that Hadrian that came into Bri∣tain about 40 years after, and reformed many things in it, made no farther progress, but commanded that the God Terminus* 1.244 (who was wont to give ground to none) should yield to Hadrian, and retire backwards out of this place, as he had done in the East on this side Euphrates. Whence that of St. Augustine, The God Terminus,* 1.245 which gave not place to Jove, yielded to the will of Hadrian, yielded to the rashness of Julian, yielded to the necessity of Jovian. So that Hadrian thought it enough to make a Turf-Wall between the rivers Tine and Esk, and 100 miles southward on this side Edenborough-Frith. But Antoninus Pius, who being adopted by Hadrian bore his name, stiled Titus Aelius Hadrianus Antoninus Pius, under the conduct of Lollius Urbicus, whom he had sent his Lieutenant, repelled again the Barbarians to beyond Edenbo∣rough Frith, and built another Turf-Wall besides that of Hadrian, according to Capitolinus. To prove which wall to have been made in this very place we are now treating of, and not by Severus, (as commonly be∣lieved) I will produce no other Witnesses than two antient Inscriptions dug up here; one of which is fixed in the wall of a house at Cadir,* 1.246 and informs us, that the Legio Secunda Augusta built the wall for three miles and more; the other is in the Earl Mar∣shal's House at Dunotyr, which hints that a party of the Legio Vicesima Victrix, made it for three miles more. But take them here, as Servatius Rihelius a Si∣lesian Gentleman, who made curious observations up∣on these Countries, copied them out for me.

    IMP. CAESARI
    T. AELIO HADRI
    ANO ANTONINO
    AVG. PIO P. P.
    VEXILLATIO
    LEG. XX. VAL. VIC. F.
    PER MIL. P. III.

    IMP CAES. TIT. IO AELIO
    HADRIANO ANTON.
    AVG. PIO P. P. LEG. II. AVG.
    PER. M. P. III. D. CIXVIS.

    At Cadir, where this latter Inscription is extant, there is another stone to be seen, wherein, within a Laurel Garland supported by two little Victories one reads thus;

    LEG. II. AVG. FEC.

    And in a Village, called Miniabruch, this inscrip∣tion was removed out of a Minister's house into a Gentleman's then in building.

    D. M.
    C. JVLI
    MARCELLINI
    PRAEF.
    COH. I. HAMIOR.* 1.247

    But when, in the Reign of Commodus, the barba∣rous nations had pass'd over the wall, and had much harrass'd the country; Severus (as I have already said) repaired the Wall of Hadrian. But afterwards, the Romans again brought under their subjection all the country lying between. For (as Ninius has told us) Carausius under Dioclesian strengthned this wall anew, and fortified it with seven castles. Lastly, the Romans fenc'd this place in the Reign of Theodosius the younger, under the conduct of Gallio of Ravenna.

    Now (saith Bede) they made a Turf-wall to no pur∣pose, building it not so much with stones as with turfs (as having no artificer that understood so great a work) be∣tween two Friths or arms of the sea, for many miles toge∣ther; that where the fence of water was wanting, there, by the help of a wall, they might defend their Marches from the enemies Incursions. Of which work (that is to say, of a very broad and high wall) certain footsteps are to be seen at this day. This wall began (as the Scots now

    Page 921-922

    report) at the River Aven,* 1.248 which falls into Edenbo∣rough Frith; and having passed over that little River Carron, reaches to Dunbritton. But Bede, as I said but now, affirms that it begins in a place called Pen∣vael, that is, in the Pictish tongue, the head of the wall, in the British Pen-gual, in the English Pen-walton, in the Scotch Cevall (all which names are undoubtedly derived from the Latin Vallum) and that the place is almost two miles from Abercurvig or Abercurning.* 1.249 It ends (as the common people think) at Kirk-Patrick, the birth-place of St. Patrick the Irish Apostle, near Cluyde, according to Bede at Alcluyd; and as Ninnius tells us, at the City Pen-Alcloit; which may seem to be all one. But this Wall is commonly called Graham's Dyke,* 1.250 either from Graham, a valiant Scot who signali∣zed himself in breaking through it, or from the Moun∣tain Grampius, at the foot whereof it is visible. The Au∣thor of Rota Temporum calls it the Wall of Aber-corneth, that is, of the mouth of the River Corneth, where, in Bede's time, there was a famous Monastery standing (as he tells us) on the English side of the Pale, but near the Frith, which divided the English Lands from those of the Picts. Hard by this wall of turf, where the River Carron cuts this Sterlingshire in sunder, towards the left hand, are to be seen two Mounts cast up, which they call Duni Pacis,* 1.2514 1.252 and almost two miles lower,† 1.253 an antient round piece of building, 24 cubits high, and 13 broad, open in the top, framed of rough stones without lime, having the upper part of every stone so tenanted into the nether, as that the whole work still rising narrow, supports it self by a mutual interlacing. Some call this the Temple of the God Terminus; o∣thers, who father every magnificent thing upon Ar∣thur, Arthur's Oven;* 1.254 others call it Julius Hoff, and suppose it was built by Julius Caesar: but I should rather have thought, by Julius Agricola, who fortified this part;a 1.255 had not Ninius informed me that Carausius erected it for a Triumphal Arch. For he (as Ninius writes) built upon the bank of Carron a round house of polished stone, erecting a triumphal Arch in memory of a victory, and rebuilt the Wall, and fortified it with seven Castles. In the middle between Duni pacis and this piece of building, on the right hand bank of Carron, there is yet a confus'd appearance of a little antient City, where the common people believe there was formerly ab 1.256 Road for ships: they call it Camelot, (a name often used in King Arthur's story) and contend, but in vain, that it is the Camalodunum mentioned by Tacitus, from the name of the River Carron that runs under it.c 1.257 It may rather seem to be Coria Dam∣niorum,* 1.258 mentioned by Ptolemy. And now take with you Buchanan that excellent Poet's verses, upon this boundary of the Roman Empire at Carron.

    Roma securigeris praetendit moenia Scotis, Hic spe progressus posita, Carronis ad undam Terminus Ausonii signat divortia Regni. A frontier wall against the Scottish force The Romans rais'd, nor farther urg'd their course; Content to keep their own, on Carron's shore They fix'd the bounds of their resisted power.

    * 1.259In this Sterlingshire, on the East side, we have a prospect of Callendar-Castle, belonging to the Barons of Levingston.* 1.260 And at Cumbernald, hard by, dwells the family of the Barons Fleming; bestowed upon them by King Robert Brus, for their good service in valiant∣ly and loyally defending their country; upon which account they also had conferred upon them the ho∣nour of Hereditary High-Chamberlains of Scotland. And very lately the favour of King James 6. hath far∣ther honoured this family with the title of Earl, upon his creating J. Baron Fleming Earl of Wigton.* 1.261 In the neighbourhood stands Elphingston, honoured with its Barons, who were advanced to that dignity by King James 4. and upon the crooked windings of the Forth,* 1.262 (where it is capable of having a bridge) stands Sterling, commonly called Striveling, and Ster∣ling-Borough; where, upon the brow of a steep rock, it is over-topt by a strong Castle of the Kings, beau∣tified with new buildings by King James 6. and hath been long under the command of the Lords of Ere∣skin, as Castellans, who have often had committed to them the charge and tuition of the Princes of Scotland, during their Minority. But they are much mistaken, that think our good and lawful money of Eng∣land, commonly called Sterling-money,* 1.263 takes its name from hence:d 1.264 for that denominatlon came from the Germans, termed Easterlings by the English, from their living Eastward, who were first called in by K. John of England, to reduce the Silver to its due fine∣ness: and such money in antient writings is always termed Easterling. But Johnston's verses upon Sterling shall supply the rest.

    Regia sublimis celsa despectat ab arce Pendula sub biferis moenia structa jugis. Regum augusta parens, Regum nutricula natis, Hinc sibi Regifico nomine tota placet. Hospita sed cuivis quovis sub nomine, amicus Sive es, seu non es, hospes an hostis item. Pro lucro cedit damnum. Discordia tristis Heu quoties procerum sanguine tinxit humum! Hoc uno infelix, at felix caetera, nusquam Laetior aut coeli frons, geniusve soli. The lofty palace with proud state looks down On circling walls that grace the subject town. Mother and nurse to Prince's dearest cares, And ever proud of the great name she bears. But ah! too fondly kind to friends and foes, While none her hospitable seats refuse. Such gains too oft' to fatal losses turn. What fewds, what slaughters must she ever mourn?
    Hapless in this: all other joys attend, No purer air she owns, no richer land, And wealth and pleasure wait at her command.

    About two miles hence the Banocbourn* 1.265 runs be∣tween very high banks on both sides, towards the Forth, with a stream in the winter verye 1.266 rapid; but most famous for as glorious a victory as ever the Scots obtained, when Edward 2. King of England, was put to flight, and forc'd to save himself in a Boat; and for the routing of as fine an Army as ever England sent out before that, by the valiant conduct of King Robert Brus. Insomuch that for a year or two the English did not in the least disturb the Scots. Ptole∣my seems, somewhere about Sterling, to place his Alau∣na,* 1.267 which was either upon Alon, a little River that hath its influx here into the Forth, or at Alway, a seat of the Ereskins, hereditary Sheriffs of all the County without the Borough.f 1.268 But I have not yet read of any one honoured with the title of Earl of Sterling. [d]

    Additions to the DAMNII.

    [a] CLYDSDALE* 1.269 (called also the Sheriffdom of Lanrick, from the town of Lanrick, where the Sheriff keeps his courts) is bounded on the South-East with the Stewartry of Annandale, on the South with the Sheriffdom of Dumfrise, on the South-west with that of Aire, on the North-west with that of Ranfrew, on the North with that of Dumbarton, on the North-east with that of Sterling, on the East with that of Linlithgow, a little to the South-east with that of Mid-Lothian. 'Tis in length about 40 miles; in

    Page 923-924

    breadth, where broadest, some 24. and where nar∣rowest, 16 miles. The countrey abounds with Coal, Peets, and Lime-stone; but what turns to the greatest account, are the Lead-mines, belonging to Hopton, not far from which after rains the country people find pie∣ces of gold, some of which are of a considerable bigness. I suppose 'tis the same place our Author has mentioned upon this account.

    It is divided into two Wards, the Overward and Netherward: this hilly and full of heaths, and fit for pasturage; the other plain and proper for grain.

    It is watered with the pleasant River of Clide, which gives name to the shire; it rises at Errick-hill, and running through the whole County, glideth by many pleasant seats of the nobility and gentry, and several considerable towns, till it fall into its own Firth at Dumbarton.

    The great ornament of these parts is the Palace of Hamilton,* 1.270 the residence of the Dutchess of Hamilton;* 1.271 the Court whereof is on all sides adorned with very noble buildings. It has a magnificent Avenue, and a Frontispiece towards the East of excellent workman∣ship. On one hand of the Avenue is a hedge, on the other, fair large gardens, well furnished with fruit-trees and flowers. The Park (famous for its tall oaks) is six or seven miles round, and has the Brook Aven running through it. Near the Palace is the Church, the Vault whereof is the buryal-place of the Dukes of Hamilton.

    Upon the East bank of Clyde stands Glasgow,* 1.272† 1.273 in respect of largeness, buildings, trade and wealth, the chief City in the Kingdom next Edinburgh. The ri∣ver carries vessels of small burthen up to the very tower; but New-Glasgow, which stands on the mouth of Clyde, is a haven for vessels of the largest size.

    Most part of the City stands on a plain, and is al∣most four-square. In the very middle of it (where is the Tolbooth, a very stately building of hewn-stone) four principal streets, crossing each other, divide the city as it were into four equal parts. In the higher part of it, stands the Cathedral Church, commonly called St. Mungo's; consisting indeed of two Churches, one whereof is over the other. The Architecture of the pillars and towers is said to be very exact and cu∣rious. Near the Church is the Archbishop's Castle, fenc'd with a wall of hewn stone: but its greatest or∣nament is the College, separated from the rest of the town by an exceeding high wall; the precincts where∣of are enlarged with some Acres of ground lately pur∣chased; and the buildings repaired and adorned by the care and prudent administration of the Principal, the Learned Doctor Fall.

    * 1.274Nor does this tract want some remains of Roman Antiquity. For from Errickstone in the one end, to Mauls Mire in the other, where it borders upon Rein∣fraw, there are evident footsteps of a Roman Causey or military way, called to this day the Watlin-street. This in some parts is visible for whole miles together; and the people have a tradition that another Roman Street went from Lanrick to the Roman Camp near Falkirk.

    At Lismehago, a town in this shire, was a Priory and Convent of the Monks of the order Vallis Caulium, a sort of Cistercians, founded by Fergus, Lord of Gal∣loway, a Cell of Kelso.

    [b] RANFREW* 1.275 or Reinfraw is the next branch of the Damnii, and is separated from the shire of Dum∣barton on the West by the River Clyde, which carries up ships of great burden for 10 miles. On the East 'tis joyned to the shire of Lanrick, and on the West and South to the Sheriffdom of Aire. It is in length twenty miles, and in breadth eight, but where broad∣est thirteen. That part which lyeth near Clyde is pleasant and fertil, without mountains, only has some small risings: but that to the South, South-west, and West, is more barren, hilly, and moorish. Our Au∣thor has observ'd this tract to be full of Nobility and Gentry; who almost keep up a constant relation by marriage one with another.

    The convenience of the Frith of Clyde (the Coast whereof is all along very safe to ride in) has caused good improvements in these parts. At the West end of a fair Bay, stand Gumrock* 1.276 town and castle, where there is a good road and a harbour, lately contrived; and a village is now in building. More inward stands Greenock,* 1.277 a good road, and well built town, of best account on all this Coast. 'Tis the chief seat of the herring-fishing, and the Royal Company of Fishers have built a house at it, for the convenience of trade. Near this, is Crawfird-Dyke,* 1.278 where good houses are in building: and a little more to the South, New-work,* 1.279 where the town of Glasgow hath built a new port, and called it Port-Glasgow, with a large publick house. Here is the Custom-house for all this Coast; and the town of Glasgow hath obliged the Merchants to load and unload here.

    But Pasly* 1.280 for antient Grandeur is the most consi∣derable. The Abbey and Church, with fair gardens and orchards, and a little Park for Fallow-deer, are all enclosed with a stone-wall about a mile in circuit. The Monastery here was of the Order of the Clunia∣censes, founded by Walter the second, great Steward of King Malcolm the fourth. The Chancel of the Church standeth yet, where lye buried Robert 2. and his mother. At this town there is a large Ro∣man Camp: the Praetorium is at the West end on a rising ground, upon the descent whereof the town of Pasly stands. This Praetorium is not large, but has been well fortified with three fosses and dykes of earth; of which so much is still remaining, that one on horse∣back cannot see over them. It seems to have inclos'd all that ground on which the town stands, and may have been about a mile in compass. When you tread upon the ground of the Praetorium, it gives a sound as if hollow; occasioned probably by some Vaults un∣derneath, such as are at Camelon and Airdoch, two o∣thers of their Camps.

    About a quarter of a mile from this, are two other risings, one to the South, and the other to the West, which along with this make a triangular form. By the footsteps remaining they seem to have been little larger than the Praetorium of the first, without any fortifications, save a single Fosse and a Dyke of the same form. 'Tis probable enough that these might be the Stations for the outer guards.

    At Langsyde* 1.281 also there is the appearance of an old Camp on the top of the hills. Here a battle was fought between Queen Mary and the Earl of Murray, call'd the field of Langsyde.

    In the lands of New-yards, near Pasly,* 1.282 there is a remarkable spring, which is observed to ebb and flow with the tyde, tho' it be on a far higher ground than any place where the tide cometh.

    The water of the River Whyte-Cart (upon which Paslay stands) is commended for its largeness, and the fineness of the Pearls that are frequently found here∣abouts, and three miles above. They fish for them mostly in summer-time, and meet with them at the bottom of the water in a fish-shell, much larger than the ordinary Muscle.

    [c] LENNOX* 1.283 also (called likewise Dumbarton∣shire, from Dumbarton, a Burgh-royal and chief town in the shire) is made by our Author a part of the Damnii; tho' some learned men, according to the division of it into the High country and the Low, have thought it more convenient to make the latter, part of the Gadeni, and the former, the seat of the Vaco∣magi; the remains of which name they observe in a village upon Loch-lomund, called Blowvochie. 'Tis boun∣ded on the South with the River Clyde and its Firth; on the West it hath Logh-Lung, and a water of the same name which falleth into it; on the North it hath the Grampion-hills; and on the East the water of Blane divides it from Sterlingshire. Its length is about 24 miles, and its breadth about 20. The Lower part lyes to the East, and is very fertil in corn, especially to∣wards the Rivers. The Higher is hilly, moorish, and more fit for pasture, especially where the Grampion-mountains begin. The country is very well furnished with Gentlemens seats; and here is the Castle of Mur∣dock, the residence of the Marquis of Montross. They have Lochs both of salt and fresh water; the greatest of the fresh-water Lochs is Loch-Lomond,* 1.284 24 miles in length, in breadth about eight miles where broad∣est,

    Page 925-926

    and where narrowest, two. 'Tis surrounded with hills on all sides, except the South; and is full of Isles, some whereof are cultivated and inha∣bited.

    [d] STERLINGSHIRE* 1.285 is the fourth of those, com∣prehended by our Authour under the antient Damnii; but Sir Robert Sibbalds (who has consider'd these mat∣ters very accurately) is of opinion that this, as well as the adjacent part of Dumbartonshire, belonged to the Gadeni, a name referring to this narrow neck of land. It is encompassed to the West with Dumbarton∣shire, to the South with part of Clydsdale and part of Dumbartonshire, to the East with the shire of Linlith∣gow, and to the North with the Firth and river of Forth: where 'tis longest, it is about 20 miles; and where broadest, twelve miles over. The South part is high hilly ground, somewhat moorish, and fit for pasture; but that which lyes upon the Firth of Forth is very fertil, and abounds with Coal.

    Besides Sterling, (a Royal Burgh where the Courts meet) there is Kilsyth,* 1.286 a Burgh of Barony, which gi∣veth title to the Viscount thereof, named Levingston, who has several manours and lands in the neighbour∣hood. Falkirk,* 1.287 another Burgh of Barony, well built upon a rising ground, much beautified with buildings by the first Earl of Kalendar, brother to the Earl of Linlithgow, a person famous for his valour and con∣duct. Elphinston,* 1.288 the residence of the Lord of that name, adorned with a large wood of Firs, &c. with several other seats.

    Near to Sterling stands the Abbey of Cambuskeneth, which belonged to the Monks of the Order of S. Au∣gustin, and was founded by King David. Emanuel is a Nunnery of the Cistertian Order, founded by Mal∣colm 4. and stands upon Evan water.

    CALEDONIA.

    ALL that part of Britain lying Northward beyond Graham's Dyke, or the foremen∣tioned Wall of Antoninus Pius, and jetting out on both sides, is called by Tacitus Ca∣ledonia, as its people are, The Britains inhabiting Cale∣donia. Ptolemy divides them into many nations, viz. the Caledonii, Epidii, Vacomagi, &c. All these were afterwards, from retaining that custom of painting their bodies, called Picts by the Romans and Provin∣cials. They are divided by Ammianus Marcellinus in∣to two Nations, theg 1.289 Dicaledones, and Vecturiones, which have been treated of before. Nevertheless, in Clas∣sick Authors they go all under the name of Caledonii; who I should think were so called of Kaled, a British word signifying hard, making in the Plural number Kaledion, whence Caledonii, that is, a people hardy, rough, unciviliz'd, wild and rustick, such as the Nor∣thern nations generally are; as observ'd to be of a fiercer temper from the extream coldness of their cli∣mate, and more bold and forward from their abun∣dance of blood. And beside their clime, the nature of the country confirms it, which rises up every where in rough and rugged mountains; and Moun∣taineers are lookt upon by all as a hardy and robust sort of people. But whereas Varro alleges out of Pacuvius, that Caledonia breeds men of exceeding large bodies, I should rather think it meant of that part of Epirus [called Caledonia] than of ours; although ours too may justly challenge this commendation. Amongst these was the Sylva Caledonia,* 1.290 called by Lucius Florus Saltus Caledonius, spreading out to a vast compass, and by the thickness of its trees, impassible; divided also by the Mountain Grampius, now called Grantzbaine, that is, the crooked Mountain. Solinus tells us, it is plain that Ulysses arrived in Caledonia,* 1.291 by a votive Altar inscrib'd with Greek Characters: But I should rather think it was set up in honour ofh. 1.292 Ulysses, than by Ulys∣ses himself. Martial also in this verse mentions the Caledonian Bears.

    Nuda Caledonio sic pectora praebuit urso. His naked breast to Caledonian bears He thus expos'd.—

    Plutarch too writes that they transported Bears from Britain to Rome, where they had them in great ad∣miration; whenas Britain hath bred none for many ages. What sort of Monster that should be, men∣tion'd by Claudian,

    Caledonio velata Britannia monstro. With Caledonian monsters cover'd o're Great Britain next appears.—
    I cannot really tell. It certainly bred in antient times abundance of wild milk-white Bulls,* 1.293 with thick manes like Lions, but only few now a days, and those very cruel and fierce, having such an aversion to mankind, that for some time they cannot endure any thing handled or breathed upon by them; nay, they value not the baiting of dogs, though Rome in former ages so wonder'd at the fierceness of Scottish Dogs, that they thought they were brought over in cages of Iron. However, this word Caledonii grew so common a∣mongst the Roman writers, that they made use of it to signifie all Britain, and all the Forests of Britain. Hence Florus tells us, that Caesar pursued the Britains as far as the Caledonian Forests; and yet he never saw them. Hence also Valerius Flaccus addresses himself thus to Vespasian;
    —Caledonius postquam tua Carbasa vexit Oceanus.— When Caledonian waves your streamers bore.
    That is, the British Sea. Hence likewise Statius addres∣ses his verses to Crispinus, concerning Vectius Volanus, his Father, Propraetor of Britain about Vitellius's time.
    Quanta Caledonios attollet gloria campos, Cùm tibi longaevus referet trucis incola terrae, Hîc suetus dare jura parens, hoc cespite turmas Affari, ille dedit, cinxít{que} haec moenia fossa, Belligeris haec dona deis, haec tela dicavit, Cernis adhuc titulos, hunc ipse vacantibus armis Induit, hunc regi rapuit thoraca Britanno. What glories Caledonian plains shall boast, When some rude native of the barb'rous coast Salutes you thus,—Here, Sir, with awful state Your noble father oft in judgment sate.
    On this small hill I've seen the Heroe stand, While willing Legions heard his just command. These walls, these ditches, own his mighty hand.
    These Arms (their old inscriptions yet appear,) He fix'd, glad trophies to the God of War. This sumptuous Corslet for the fight put on, And this from Britain's Prince in combat won.
    But in these, as in other things,
    Crescit in immensum facunda licentia vatum. Nor laws nor bounds poetick licence owns.

    For neither Caesar nor Volanus ever so much as knew the Caledonians. In Pliny's time, (as himself witnesses) almost 30 years after Claudius, the Romans, with all their expeditions, had carried their victories no farther in Britain, than to the neighbourhood of the Caledonian Forest. For Julius Agricola, under Do∣mitian, was the first that enter'd Caledonia, which was then under the government of Galgacus,* 1.294 (called5 1.295 in the Triadum Liber, amongst the three Worthies of Britain, Galauc ap Liennauc) a Prince of a mighty spi∣rit

    Page 927-928

    and courage; who having routed the Legion, with an undaunted resolution charg'd the Romans, and with the utmost bravery defended his country, till fortune, rather than his own valour, fail'd him. For then (as he saith) ths northern Britains were the ut∣most bounds both of land and liberty. And they certainly were the utmost of this Island▪ as Catullus calls the Britains the utmost of the world, in his verses to Fu∣rius.

    Caesaris visens monumenta magni, Gallicum Rhenum, horribiles & ultimos{que} Britannos. To view the noble marks of Caesar's power, The Gallick Rhine, and Britain's farthest shore.

    In the time of Severus (as we read in Xiphiline) Argetecoxus,* 1.296 a petty King, reigned over this Tract; whose wife being reproached as an Adulteress by Ju∣lia the Empress, frankly made this answer; We Bri∣tish Dames have to do with the bravest of men, but you Roman Ladies with every lewd fellow in private.

    FIFE.

    IN this large Country of the Caledonians, beyond Sterlingshire, (of which I treated last) and two little Governments or Sheriffdoms, Clackmans,* 1.297 of which a Knight named de Carss, [a] and Kinross,* 1.298 of which the Earl of Morton, is Sheriff, [b] lies Fife, a very fine Peninsula, wedged in as it were between two Arms of the Sea, the Forth and the Tay, and shooting out towards the East. The land yeilds great plenty of Corn, Forage, and Pit-coal: the Sea, besides other fish, produces abundance of Oysters and Shellfish; and the coast is well planted with little towns, that breed good store of lusty Seamen. In the South side hereof, upon the Forth, we first have a sight Westward of Cul-ros, a late erected Barony in the person of John Colvill: then of Dunfermling,* 1.299 seated on an Eminence, a famous Monastery in former times; both the building and burying place of King Mal∣colm the third. But now it gives the name and title of Earl to that wise Statesman Alexander Seton, of late deservedly advanced from Baron of Fivy to be Earl of Dunfermling, and High Chancellor of the King∣dom of Scotland, by James King of Great Britain. Then upon the Frith stands Kinghorn,* 1.300 from whichi 1.301 Patrick Lyon, Baron Glamys, by the favour of King James 6. lately received the title and honour of an Earl. After this, upon the shore, is Dysert,* 1.302 situate up∣on a rising ground, with an open heath of the same name stretch'd out before it. Here is a good large place, which they call the Coal-plot, that hath great plenty of an earthy Bitumen, part whereof burns, not without damage to the neighboursk 1.303. Near to this, lies Ravins-hecuh, that is, the Raven's craggy hill, the seat of the Barons St. Clare, or Seincler. Above this, the River Levin* 1.304 buries it self in the Forth; which Ri∣ver running out of the Lake Levin, (wherein there stands a Castle of the Douglas's, now Earls of Morton) hath at its mouth Wemmis-Castle,* 1.305l 1.306 the seat of a noble family of that sirname, lately advanced to the digni∣ty of Barons by King James 6. From hence the shore bends inwards, with many windings and turnings, as far as Fif-ness, that is, the promontory or nose of Fife. Above it, St. Andrews,* 1.307 an Archiepiscopal City, hath a fine prospect into the open sea. The more antient name of this place was Regimund, that is, St. Regulus's Mount,* 1.308 as appears by old evidences, in which we read, Oengus or Ungus, King of the Picts, granted unto God and St. Andrew, that it should be the Head and Mo∣ther of all the Churches in the Picts Dominions. And then an Episcopal See was placed here, whose Bishops, as all the rest of the Kingdom of Scotland, were con∣secrated and confirm'd by the Archbishop of York; till at the intercession of King James 3. by reason of often wars between the Scots and English, Pope Six∣tus the fourth constituted the Bishop of St. Andrews Primate and Metropolitan of all Scotland; and Pope Innocent the eighth bound him and his successors to the imitation of the Metropolitan of Canterbury, in these words,* 1.309 That in matters concerning the Archiepisco∣pal state, they should observe and firmly hold the offices of Primacy and Legatine power, their rights, and the free exercise thereof, the honours, charges, and profits; and they should endeavour to observe inviolably the laudable customs of the famous Metropolitan Church of Canterbury, whose Archbishop is born Legate of the Kingdom of England, &c. Nevertheless, before this, Lawrence Lundoris and Ri∣chard Corvil, Doctors of the Civil Law, reading pub∣lick lectures in this place, laid the Foundation of an University, now grown famous for the many learned men it hath produced, for its three Colleges, and in them for the Regius-Professors.* 1.310 In commendation of it, J. Johnston, Regius-Professor of Divinity there, hath these verses;

    FANUM REGULI, Sive ANDREAPOLIS.
    Imminet Oceano, paribus descripta viarum Limitibus, pingui quàm benè septa solo? Magnificis opibus, staret dum gloria prisca Pontificum, hîc fulsit Pontificalis apex. Musarum ostentat surrecta palatia coelo, Delicias hominum, delicias{que} Deûm. Hîc nemus umbriferum Phoebi, Nymphae{que} sorores Candida quas inter praenitet Uranie. Quae me longinquis redeuntem Teutonis oris Suscipit, excelso collocat in{que} gradu. Urbs nimiùm foelix Musarum si bona nôsset Munera, & aetherii regna beata Dei. Pelle malas pestes urbe, & quae noxia Musis, Alme Deus, coëant Pax Pietas{que} simul. In equal streets the beauteous structures run, And tow'ard the Ocean stretch the spacious town. While Rome and Mitres aw'd the easie state, Here the great Prelate kept his splendid seat. In lofty Courts the gentle Muses reign, And cheer with heavenly numbers gods and men. While tuneful Phoebus charms the sounding groves, And wondring Nymphs repeat his sacred loves. Here me, returning from the German Coast To those dear comforts I so long had lost, Me Phoebus blest with his peculiar care, Me in his honours gave the largest share. Too happy town, did she but rightly know The gifts that heaven and heaven's dear tribe bestow. Far hence, ye guardian powers, all dangers chase, But crown the Muses and the sacred place With constant joys of piety and peace.

    Hard by, the little river Eden or Ethan hath its en∣trance into the sea; which rising near Falkland,* 1.311 (for∣merly belonging to the Earls of Fife,m 1.312 but now a Royal retirement, excellently well seated for the pleasures of hunting,) runs forward under a continu∣ed ridge of hills, which cuts this territory in the mid∣dle, by Struthers, (so called from the abundance of Reeds that grow there) a Castle of the Barons Lyndsey;* 1.313 and by Cupre, a noted Borough, where the Sheriff keeps his Court. Upon which J. Johnston hath these verses;

    Page 929-930

    CUPRUM FIFAE.
    Arva inter, nemoris{que} umbras & pascua laeta Lenè fluens vitreis labitur Eden aquis. Huc veniat siquis Gallorum à finibus hospes, Gallica se hìc iterum fortè videre putet. Anne etiam ingenium hinc & fervida pectora traxit? An potius patriis hauserat illa focis? By fields, by shady woods, by flowry meads, His chrystal stream the gentle Eden guides. To these blest seats should Gallick strangers come, They'd find no change, but think themselves at home. Did that kind neighb'ring country lend the town The wit and courage she so oft hath shown? Or was she better furnish'd from her own?

    The shore now turns towards the North; and up∣on the aestuary of Tay stood two famous Monasteries, Bolmerinock,* 1.314 built by Queen Ermengerd, wife to King William, and daughter of Viscount Beaumont in France, now proud of its Baron James Elphinston;6 1.315 and Lundoris,* 1.316 founded amongst the Woods by David Earl of Huntingdon, and now the Barony of Patrick Lesley. Between these two lyes Banbrich,* 1.317 a seat of the Earls of Rothes, strongly built in form of a Castle. But concerning the Towns of Fife, lying along the shore, take, if you please, these verses of J. Johnston.

    Opida sic toto sunt sparsa in littore, ut unum Dixeris, in{que} uno plurima juncta eadem: Littore quot curvo Forthae volvuntur arenae, Quot{que} undis refluo tunditur ora salo; Penè tot hic cernas instratum puppibus aequor, Urbibus & crebris penè tot ora hominum. Cuncta operis intenta domus, foeda otia nescit; Sedula cura domi, sedula cura forìs. Quae maria, & quas non terras animosa juventus Ah! fragili fidens audet adire trabe? Auxit opes virtus, virtuti dura pericla Juncta etiam lucro damna fuere suo. Quae fecere viris animos, cultum{que} dedere, Magnanimis prosunt, damna, pericla, labor. Ore all the shore so thick the towns are shown, You'd think them thousands, and yet all but one. As many sands as Forth's great stream can hide, As many waves as swell the rising tide, So many vessels cut the noisie flood, Such numerous tribes the scatter'd hamlets crowd. On land some ply their work, and some on seas, And scorn the pleasures of inglorious ease. Thro' what strange waves, to what forsaken shores, The labou'ring youth still urge their slender oars? Thus riches come, and happy plenty flows, But riches still to accidents expose; And he that gains must ever fear to lose. Thus bred in hardships and inur'd to care, They trust their courage, and forget to fear. Loss, pains, and all that angry fate can send, Prove but incentives to a noble mind.

    The Governour of this County, as likewise of all the rest in the Kingdom, was in antient times a Thane,* 1.318 that is in the old English tongue, the King's Minister, as it is also in the Danish at this day: but Malcolm Canmore made Macduff, who was Thane of Fife be∣fore, the first hereditary Earl of Fife;* 1.319 and in conside∣ration of his good services, granted that his posterity should place the King (when he is to be crowned) in his chair, lead the van-guard in the King's Army, and if any of them should by chance kill either a gen∣tleman or a commoner, he should buy it off with a piece of money. Not far from Lundoris there stands a stone-cross,* 1.320 which serves for a boundary between Fife and Strathern, with old barbarous verses upon it, and had a certain privilege of a Sanctuary, that any Homicide ally'd to Mac-duff, Earl of Fife, within the ninth degree, if he came to this cross, and gave nine cows, with a* 1.321 Heifer, he should be acquitted of the manslaughter. When his Posterity lost this title, I cannot yet learn; but it appears by the Records of that Kingdom, that King David 2. gave this Earldom to William Ramsay, with all and every the immuni∣ties, and the law which is called Clan Mac-duff. And it is lookt upon as undeniable, that the families of Weimes and Douglas, and that great Clan Clan-Hatan, whose head is Mac-Intoskech, descended from them. I find also by the learned J. Skene, Clerk Re∣gister of Scotland, in his Significations of words, that Isabella, daughter and heir to Duncan Earl of Fife, granted upon certain conditions to Robert King of Scotland, in trust for Robert Steward, Earl of Men∣teith, the Earldom of Fife; who being afterwards Duke of Albany, and eagerly affecting the Crown, put David, the King's eldest son, to one of the most miserable deaths, that of hunger. But his son Murdac suffered a punishment due to the wickedness both of his father and his own sons; being put to death by King James the first,7 1.322 when a decree passed, That the Earldom of Fife should for ever be united to the Crown. But the authority of Sheriff of Fife belongs by inhe∣ritance to the Earl of Rothes.* 1.323 m 1.324 [c]

    STRATHERN.

    * 1.325AS far as the River Tay, which bounds Fife on the North side, Julius Agricola, the best of all the Propraetors of Britain un∣der Domitian the worst of the Emperors, carried his victories in the third year of his Expedi∣tion; having so far wasted the Kingdom. Into this aestuarie falls the noted River Ern,* 1.326 which rising out of a Logh of the same name, bestows it on the Coun∣try it runs through; for it is called Straith-ern, which in the antient British, signifies a Valley upon Ern. The Banks of this Ern are adorned with Drimein-Castle,* 1.327 belonging to the family of the Barons of Dromond,* 1.328 who have risen to great honours since King Robert Steward the 3. married a wife out of this family. For the Women of that family, for charming beauty and complexion, are beyond all others; insomuch that they have been most delighted in by the Kings.

    * 1.329And upon the same bank Tulibardin-Castle shews it self aloft, and that with more honour, since by the favour of K. James 6. John Murray Baron of Tulibar∣din, was advanced to the title and dignity of Earl of Tulibardin. Upon the other bank, lower, stands Duplin-Castle,* 1.330 the seat of the Barons Oliphant,* 1.331 and still remembers how great an overthrow (not to be equalled in former Ages) the English that came to assist King Edward Balliol, gave the Scots there: insomuch, that the English writers of that time, attribute the victory wholly to God's power, and not to any valour of man; and the Scots report, that there fell of the family of Lindsay 80 persons; and that the name of Hays had been quite extinct, had not the head of the family left his Wife big with child at home. Not far off stands Innermeth,* 1.332 well known for its Lords the Stewards, of the family of Lorn8 1.333.

    But after the conflux of the Ern and the Tay, by which the latter more expatiates it self; he looks up upon Aberneth,* 1.334 standing upon his banks, antiently the

    Page 931-932

    Royal Seat of the Picts, and a populous city; which (as we read in an old fragment) Nectanus, K. of the Picts, gave to God and S. Brigid, until the day of judg∣ment, together with the bounds thereof, which lie from a stone in Abertrent, to a stone near Carful that is Logh∣fol, and from thence as far as Ethan. But a long time after, it fell into the possession of the Douglasses, Earls of Angus, who are called Lords of Aberneth, and are some of them there interred.

    The first Earl of Strathern* 1.335 that I read of, was9 1.336 Ro∣bert Stewart, in the year 1380. then David a youn∣ger son of K. Robert 2. whose only daughter being given in marriage to Patrick Graham, was mother of Mailise or Melisse Graham, from whom K. James 1. took the Earldom, after he had found by the Records of the Kingdom, that it had been given to his* 1.337 Mo∣ther's Grandfather, and his Heirs Male. This Terri∣tory (as also Menteith adjoyning) is under the go∣vernment of the Barons Dromond, hereditary Stewards of it.

    Menteith,* 1.338 as they say, hath its name from the River Teith, called also Taich, and thence in Latin they name this little Territory Taichia. Upon the bank of which lies the Bishoprick of Dunblain,* 1.339 erected by K. David the first of that name* 1.340. At Kirk-Bird, that is, St. Brigid's Church, the Earls of Menteith have their principal residence; as also the Earls of Montrossl. 1.341 of the same family, not far off at Kin-kardin. This Men∣teith (as I have heard) reaches to the Mountains that enclose the East side of Logh-lomond. The anti∣ent Earls of Menteith were of the family of Cumen; anciently the most numerous and potent in all Scot∣land, but ruin'd by its own greatness. The later Earls are of the House of Graham,* 1.342 ever since Mailise Graham attain'd to the honour of Earl [d].

    ARGATHELIA or ARGILE.

    BEyond Logh-Lomond, and the western part of Lennox, near Dunbritton-Forth, Argile lays out it self, call'd in Latin Argathelia and Arogadia, commonly Argile, but more truly Argathel, and Ar-Gwithil, that is, near to the Irish, or as some old Records have it, the brink or edge of Ireland; for it lies towards Ireland, whose inhabi∣tants the Britains call'd Gwithil and Gaothel. A Coun∣trey much running out in length and breadth, all mangled with Lakes well stock'd with fish, and rising in some places into mountains very commodious for feeding of cattle; wherein also wild Cows and Deer range up and down. But along the coast, what with rocks, and what with blackish barren mountains, it makes a horrid appearance. In this tract, (as Bede observes) Britain received, (after the Britons and Picts) a 3d Nation, the Scots, into the Picts territories; who coming out of Ireland with Reuda their Leader, got ei∣ther by force or friendship the habitation, which they still keep; of which leader they are to this day called Dalreu∣dini,* 1.343 for in their language Dal* 1.344 signifies a part. And a little after, Ireland (says he) is the proper Country of the Scots, for being departed out of it, they added unto the Britons and Picts a 3d Nation in Britain. And there is a very good Arm of the sea, or a bay, that antiently di∣vided the Nation of the Britons from the Picts; which from the West breaketh a great way into the Land; and there to this day standeth the strongest City of the Britons, call'd Alcluith. In the Northern part of which bay the Scots (whom I now mentioned) when they came, got them∣selves room to settle in. Of that name Dalreudin, there are now extant no remains that I know of, nor any mention of it in Writers, unless it be the same with Dalrieta.* 1.345 For in an old little book of the Division of Albany, we read of one Kinnadius, (who 'tis certain was a King of Scotland, and subdu'd the Picts) in these very words, Kinnadius, two years before he came into Pictavia, (so it calls the country of the Picts) en∣ter'd upon the government of Dalrieta. Also there is mention made, in a more modern History of Dalrea* 1.346 hereabouts, where King Robert Brus fought a battle with ill success.

    K. James the 4. with consent of the States of the Kingdom, enacted, that Justice should be administred to this province by the Justices Itinerant at Perth, whensoever the King should think convenient. But the Earls themselves have in some cases their Jura Regalia; who are persons of very great authority, and of a mighty interest, deriving their pedigree from the antient petty Kings of Argile, through an infinite se∣ries of Ancestors, and taking their sirname from their Castle Cambel. But they are oblig'd to King James the 2. for the honour and title of Earl; who (as it is recorded) created Colin Lord Cambel Earl of Ar∣gile,* 1.347 in regard to his own virtue, and the dignity of his Family. Whose Posterity, by the favour of their Kings, have been a good while General Justices of the Kingdom of Scotland, or (according to their way of expressing it) Justices generally constitute, and Great Masters of the King's Houshold [e].

    CANTIRE.

    LOgh-Finn,* 1.348 a Lake that in the season produ∣ces incredible sholes of herrings, divides Argile from a Promontory, which, for a∣bout 30 miles together, growing by little and little into a sharp point, thrusts it self with such a seeming earnestness towards Ireland (separated from it by a narrow streight of scarce 13 miles) as if it would call it over to it. Ptolemy names this the Promontory of the Epidii;* 1.349 between which name, and the Islands Ebudae (opposite to it) methinks there is some affinity. It is now called in Irish, (which lan∣guage they use in all this Tract) Can-tyre, that is the Land's head. 'Tis inhabited by the family of Mac-Conell, very powerful here; but yet at the command of the Earl of Argile, they sometimes in their Vessels make excursions for booty into Ireland, and have possessed themselves of those little Provinces, they call Glines and Rowte. This Promontory lieth close to Knapdale, by so small a neck of land (being scarce a mile over, and sandy too) that the Sea-men by a short cut (as it were) transport their vessels over land [from the Ocean to Logh-Finn.] Which a man would sooner beelieve than that the Argonautes laid their Ar∣gos upon their shoulders, and carried it along with them 500 miles10 1.350. [f].

    Page 933-934

    LORN.

    SOmewhat higher lies Lorn towards the North, a Country producing the best Barley; di∣vided by Logh-Leave, a vast Lake, upon which stands Berogomum* 1.351 a Castle, wherein the Courts of Justice were antiently kept: and not far from it Dunstafag, that is Stephen's Mount, antiently a seat of the Kings; above which is Logh-Aber,* 1.352 a Lake insinuating it self so far into the land out of the Western sea, that it would meet the Lake of Ness, which empties it self into the Eastern Ocean, did not the hills, which lie between, separate them by a very narrow neck. The chiefest place in this tract is Tarbar in Logh-Kinkeran, where K. James 4. by authority of Parliament, con∣stituted a Justice and Sheriff, [ 1503] to administer justice to the inhabitants of the Southern Isles. These Coun∣trys, and these beyond them, were in the year of Our Lord 605. held by those Picts, which Bede calls the Northern Picts, where he tells us, that in the said Year, Columbanus a Priest and Abbot,* 1.353 famous for the profession of Monkery, came out of Ireland into Britain, to instruct those in the Christian Religion that by the high and fearful ridges of mountains, were sequester'd from the Southern Countrys of the Picts; and that they in requital, granted himm 1.354 the Island Hii, lying over against them, now call'd I-comb-kill; of which in its proper place. Its Stewards, in the last Age, were the Lords of Lorn; but now by a female heir it is come to the Earls of Argile, who always use this among their other titles of honour.

    BRAID ALBIN.

    MORE inwardly, amongst the high and craggy ridges of the mountain Grampius, where they begin a little to slope, and settle downwards, lies Braid-Albinn 1.355, that is, the highest part of Scotland. For they that are the true and genuine Scots, call Scotland in their Mother-Tongue Albin; as that part where it rises up highest, Drum-Albin, that is the Ridge of Scotland. But in a certain old Book it is read Brun-Albin, where we find it thus written, Fergus the son of Eric was the first of the seed of Chonare, that enter'd upon the Kingdom of Albany, from Brun-Albain to the Irish-sea, and Inch-Gall. And after him the Kings of the race of Fergus reigned in Brun-Albain or Brunhere, unto Alpinus the son of Eochal. But this Albany is better known for its Dukes than the fruits of its ground. The first Duke of Albany that I read of,* 1.356 was Robert Earl of Fife, advanced to that honour by his Brother K. Robert the 3. of that name; yet he, spurr'd on by ambition, most ungratefully starved to death David this very brother's son, and next heir to the Crown. But the punishment, due to this wicked fact, which himself by the forbearance of God felt not, came heavy up∣on his son Mordac [or Murdo] second Duke of Alba∣ny, who was condemned for treason and beheaded, after he had seen his two sons executed in like man∣ner, the day before. The third Duke of Albany was Alexander 2. son of King James 2. who being Regent of the Kingdom, Earl of March, Marr, and Garioth, Lord of Annandale and Mann, was out-law'd by his brother James the 3. and after many struglings with the world and its troubles, in the end, as he stood by to see a Tournament at Paris, he happen'd to be wounded by a splinter of a broken Lance, and so died. His son John, the 4th Duke of Albany, Re∣gent likewise, and made Guardian to K. James the 5. being charm'd with the pleasures of the French Court, as having married a daughter and coheir of John Earl of Auvergne and Lauragueze, died there without issue. Whom, out of respect and deference to the bloud Royal of Scotland, Francis the 1. King of France, honour'd so far, as to allow him a place in France, between the Archbishop of Longres,* 1.357 and the Duke of Alencon, Peers of the Realm. After his death there was no Duke of Albany, till Queen Mary11 1.358 con∣ferr'd this honour upon Henry Lord Darley, whom some few days after she made her Husband; and K. James the 6. granted the same to his second son, Charles an Infant, now Duke of York.

    These Parts are inhabited by a sort of people, bar∣barous, warlike, and very mischievous, commonly called Highland-men;* 1.359 who being the true race of the antient Scots, speak Irish, and call themselves Albin∣nich. People they are of firm and compact bodies, of great strength, swift of foot, high minded, born as it were for the exercises of War, or rather of rob∣beries; and desperately bent upon revenge. They wear, after the manner of the Irish,† 1.360 strip'd Man∣tles of divers colours, with their hair thick and long; living by hunting, fishing, fowling, and stealing. In war, their armour is an iron head-piece, and a coat of Mail; their arms, a bow, barbed arrows, and a broad back-sword. And being divided into Fa∣milies, which they call Clanns, what with plundering and murdering, they commit such barbarous outra∣ges,* 1.361 that their savage cruelty hath made this Law ne∣cessary, That if one of any Clann hath committed a trespass, whoever of that Clann chances to be taken, shall repair the damage, or suffer death.12 1.362

    Page 935-936

    PERTHSHIRE.

    OUT of the very bosom of the Mountains of Albany issues the Tay,* 1.363 the greatest ri∣ver in all Scotland, and rolls along thro' the fields, till widening it self into a Lake full of Islands, it there restrains its course. After this, kept within banks, it waters Perth, a large, plentiful, and rich country, and receives the Amund, a little River coming out of Athol.

    This Athol* 1.364 (to make a little digression,) is infa∣mous for Witches, but a country fruitful enough, ha∣ving woody valleys, where once the Caledonian Forest* 1.365 (dreadful for its dark intricate windings, for its denns of bears, and its huge wild thick-maned bulls,) ex∣tended it self in former ages, far and near in these parts. As for the places herein, they are of little ac∣count; but the Earls are very memorable. Thomas, a younger son of Rolland of Galloway, was, in his Wife's right, Earl of Athol;* 1.366 whose son Patrick was murder'd at Hadington by the Bissets, his Rivals; and they im∣mediately set the house on fire,* 1.367 that it might be sup∣posed he perished casually in the flames. In the Earl∣dom succeeded David Hastings, who had married Pa∣trick's Aunt by the mother's side: whose son that David (sirnamed of Strathbogy) may seem to have been; who a little after, in the Reign of Hen. 3. of England, was Earl of Athol, married one of the daughters and heirs of Richard, base son to King John of England, and had a very noble Estate with her in England. She bore him two sons. John Earl of Athol, who being very unsettled in his allegiance, was hanged on a Gallows fifty foot high; and David Earl of Athol, who by a marriage with one of the daughters and heirs of John Comin of Badzenoth by one of the heirs of Aumar de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, got a migh∣ty estate. He had a son David, who under King Edw. 2. was sometimes summoned to Parliament a∣mongst the English Earls; and being made, under King Edward Baliol, Lieutenant-General of Scotland, was conquer'd by the valour of Andrew Murray, and slain in a battle in Kelblen Forest, in the year 1335. His son David had only two young daughters, Eliza∣beth, married to Tho. Percy, from whom the Barons de Burrough fetch their original; and Philippa, mar∣ried to Sir Tho. Halsham, an English Knight. Then fell the title of Athol to that Walter Stewart, son to King Robert 2. who barbarously murder'd James 1. King of Scotland, and was agreeably punished for that execrable piece of cruelty: insomuch that Aeneas Sylvius, then Pope Eugenius the 4th's Nuncio in Scotland, is reported to have said, That he could not tell whether he should give them greater commendations that revenged the King's death, or punish them with a sharper censure of condemnation, that polluted themslves with so heinous a Parricide. After an interval of some few years, this honour was granted to John Stewart of the house of Lorne, son of James, sirnamed the Black Knight, by Joan, the widow of King James 1. daughter of John Earl of Somerset, and‡ 1.368 neice to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster; whose Posterity enjoy it at this day.a 1.369

    Now the Tay, by the Influx of the Almund, being enlarged, makes for Dunkell,* 1.370 adorned by King David with an Episcopal See. This, upon account of the signification, is lookt upon by most as a town of the Caledonians; and they interpret it, The hill of Hazles, who will have it take the name from the Hazles of the Caledonian Forest.* 1.371 From hence the Tay takes its course by the ruins of Berth, a little desolate City; not forgetting what calamity it brought upon it in times past, when with an impetuous torrent it over∣flow'd the pasture and corn grounds, destroyed all the labours of the Husbandman, and hurried head∣long with this poor city, a Royal infant, and all the Inhabitants. Instead whereof King William built Perth,* 1.372 much better situated; which presently grew so rich, that Necham, who lived in that age, made this distick upon it;

    Transis, ample Tai, per rura, per oppida, per Perth, Regnum sustentant istius urbis opes. Great Tay through Perth, through towns, through country flies: Perth the whole Kingdom with her wealth sup∣plies.
    But posterity hath named it, from a Church founded in honour of St. John, St. John's town.* 1.373 And the English, in the heat of the war between the Bruses and the Baliols, fortified it with great Bulwarks, which the Scots afterwards mostly demolished. It is never∣theless a neat little City, pleasantly seated between two Greens; and although some of the Churches are defaced, yet wants it not its beauties: so divided too, that almost every street is inhabited by a several trade apart, and is furnished by the Tay every tide with commodities from sea, in their light Vessels.b. 1.374 Upon it, J. Johnston, so often mentioned:

    PERTHUM.
    Propter aquas Tai liquidas, & amoena vireta, Obtinet in medio regna superba solo. Nobilium quondam Regum clarissima sedes, Pulchra situ, & pinguis germine dives agri. Finitimis dat jura locis, morém{que} modúm{que} Huic dare, laus illis haec meruisse dari. Sola inter patrias incincta est moenibus urbes, Hostibus assiduis ne vaga praeda foret. Quanta virum virtus, dextrae quae praemia nôrunt Cimber, Saxo ferox, & genus Hectoridum. Felix laude novâ, felix quo{que} laude vetustâ, Perge recens, priscum perpetuare decus. Near Tay's great stream, amongst delightful plains, Majestick Perth in royal splendour reigns. For lofty Courts of antient Kings renown'd; Fair is the site, and ever rich the ground. Hence laws and manners neighb'ring parts receive, Their praise 'tis to deserve, and hers to give. No walls like her, her sister towns can show, Which guard her riches from the bord'ring foe. How stout her Knights, what noble spoils they won, The Britains, Saxons, and the Danes have known.
    Renown'd in eldest and in latest days; Oh! may her glories with her years encrease, And new deserts advance her antient praise.

    And now lately King James 6. hath advanced Perth to an Earldom, upon his creating James Baron Dro∣mond Earl of Perth.* 1.375

    Near Perth is Methven,* 1.376 which Margaret of Eng∣land, Dowager to King James 4. purchased with rea∣dy money for her third husband Henry Stewart, of the Blood Royal, and his Heirs; and withal obtained of her son James 5. the dignity of a Baron for him. A little lower is Rethven, a Castle of the Rethvens,* 1.377 a name to be accursed and raz'd out of all memorials, since the States of the Kingdom past a decree, that all of that name should lay it down, and take a new one; after that the Rethvens, Brothers, in an execra∣ble and horrid conspiracy, had plotted the murther of the best of Princes, James 6. who had created their father William, Earl of Gowry; but afterwards (upon his going insolently to prescribe Laws to his Sovereign, and being convicted of High Treason) beheaded him. But I may seem to have said too much of per∣sons condemned to eternal oblivion: and yet the mentioning such wicked generations, may be of use to caution posterity.

    Page 937-938

    As for Gowry,* 1.378 so much celebrated for its Corn-fields, and the excellency of its soil, it lyes along the other side of the Tay, being a more level country. In this Tract, over against Perth, on the farther side of Tay, stands Scone,* 1.379 a famous Monastery in times past, and honoured with the Coronation of the Kings of Scot∣land; ever since King Keneth, having hard by made a general slaughter of the Picts, placed a stone here, enclosed in a wooden chair, for the Inauguration of the Kings of Scotland. It had been transported out of Ireland into Argile; and King Edw. 1. of Eng∣land caused it to be convey'd to Westminster. Con∣cerning which, I have inserted this Prophecy, so common in every man's mouth; since it hath now proved true, as few of that sort do.

    Ni fallat fatum, Scoti quocun{que} locatum Inveniunt lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem. Or Fate's deceiv'd, and heaven decrees in vain, Or where they find this stone the Scots shall reign.

    Now, by the special favour of King James, Scone gives the title of Baron toc 1.380 David Murray.

    Where the Tay, now grown larger, dilates it self, Arrol* 1.381 hangs over it, the seat of the noble Earls of Ar∣rol:* 1.382 they have been hereditary High Constables of Scotland ever since the Bruses times, and deduce their original (which is certainly very antient) from one Hay, a man of prodigious strength and courage; who, toge∣ther with his sons, in a dangerous battle against the Danes at Longcarty, catching up an Ox-yoke, by fighting valiantly, and encouraging others, rallied the retreat∣ing Scots, so as they got the day. Which victory and deliverance, both the King and the States ascrib'd to his singular valour. Whereupon several excellent lands were assign'd hereto him and his posterity, who in testimony of this action have set a Yoke for their Crest over their Coat of Arms13 1.383. As for Huntley-Castle,* 1.384 hard by, I have nothing to write of it, but that it has given name to a very great and honourable fa∣mily: of which hereafter. [g]

    ANGƲS.

    UPon the aestuary of the Tay, and up a little way within it, along the North-Eske, lyes Angus, called by the genuine Scots Aeneia, extending it self into fields bearing wheat and all other sorts of grain, large hills, lakes, forests, pastures and meadows; and beautified with several sorts and castles. In the first entrance into it from Gowry stands Glamis,* 1.385 a Castle, and the Barony of a Family sirnamed Lyons; which have been famous ever since J. Lyon, a great favourite of King Robert 2. re∣ceived this and the dignity of a Baron with the King's daughter in Marriage; and therewith (as I find writ∣ten) the sirname of Lyon, with a Lyon in his Arms, within a Treassure Floury,* 1.386 as the Kings themselves bear, but in different colours. Patrick, now Lord Glamis, very lately obtained the honour of Earl of Kinghorn from King James 6.

    At a little distance is Forfar,* 1.387 where, for the admi∣nistration of Justice, the Barons Greies are hereditary Sheriffs,* 1.388 who are descended from the Greies of Chil∣lingham in Northumberland, and came into Scotland with King James 1. when he returned out of England. Upon the first of whom, nam'd Andrew, the King bountifully conferr'd the Lordship of Foulis, with He∣lena Mortimer for his Wife.

    * 1.389Near the Tay's mouth is Dundeed 1.390, which the an∣tients called Alectum, others Taodunum, a town well frequented; and whose Constable, by a peculiar pri∣vilege, is Standard-bearer to the Kings of Scotland. Hector Boetius,* 1.391 who was here born, expounds the name Dundee, Donum Dei, by allusion. This person, in that age when learning began again to flourish, wrote an elegant history of Scotland, out of such hid∣den monuments of Antiquity, that Paulus Jovius won∣der'd there should be in his writings Records of above 1000 years standing, concerning these remote parts of the world, the Hebrides, and the Orcades; when in Italy (the nurse of excellent wits) for so many ages after the expulsion of the Goths, there was such a scar∣city of writers* 1.392. But upon this place Johnston, born not far from hence, hath these verses;

    TAODUNUM, Or DEIDONUM.
    Quà Notus argutis adspirat molliter auris, Hâc placidè coëunt Taus & Oceanus. Hic facili excipiens venientes littore puppes, Indigenis vasti distrahit orbis opes. Saepe dolis tentata, & belli exercita damnis, Invictis animis integra praestat adhuc. Fama vetus crevit cum Relligione renatâ, Lucis & hinc fulsit pura nitela aliis. Alectum dixere priùs; si maxima spectes Commoda, fors Donum dixeris esse Dei. Tu decus aeternum gentis{que} urbis{que} Boëti, Caetera dic patriae dona beata tuae.
    Where the calm South with gentle murmurs reigns, Tay with the sea his peaceful current joyns. To trading ships an easie port is shown, That makes the riches of the world its own.
    Oft have her hapless sons been forc'd to bear The dismal thunder of repeated war; Yet unsubdu'd their noble souls appear.
    Restor'd Religion hath advanc'd her height, And spread through distant parts the sacred light.
    Alectum once 'twas nam'd; but when you've view'd The joys and comforts by kind heav'n bestow'd, You'll call it Donum Dei, Gift of God.
    Boetius, honour of the realm and town, Speak thou the rest, and make thy mother's honours known.

    Hence we have a sight of Brochty-crag,* 1.393 a Fort de∣fended by a Garison of English many months toge∣ther, [ 1547] when out of an earnest desire of a perpetual peace, they sued for a Marriage between Mary of Scotland and Edward 6. of England; and upon pro∣mise thereof, demanded the performance by force of arms: but the Garison at length abandoned it. Then to the open sea lies Aberbroth, in short Arbroth,* 1.394 a place endowed with ample Revenues, formerly con∣secrated to Religion by King William, in honour of St. Thomas of Canterbury. Near this, the Red-head* 1.395 shooteth out into the sea, a Promontory to be seen afar off. Hard by, South-Eske enters the Ocean, which flowing out of a lake, passes by Finnevim-Ca∣stle, much fam'd for being the seat of the Lindsays,* 1.396 Earls of Crawford; of whom I have spoken already. Then Brechin,* 1.397 standing upon the same River, which King David the first adorned with a Bishop's See:* 1.398 and at its very mouth, Mont-rose,* 1.399 that is, The Mount of Roses, a town antiently called Celurca, (built out of the Ruines of another of the same name, and situated between the two Eskes) which gives the title of Earl to the Family of Graham. Upon which thus Johnston.

    Page 939-940

    CELURCA, or MONS ROSARUM.
    Aureolis urbs picta rosis: mons molliter urbi Imminet, hinc urbi nomina facta canunt: At veteres perhibent quondam dixisse Celurcam, Nomine sic prisco & nobilitata novo est. Et prisca atque nova insignis virtute, virûmque Ingeniis, Patriae qui peperere decus. A leaning mount which golden roses grace At once adorns and names the happy place. But ancient times Celurca call'd the town; Thus is it proud of old and late renown; And old and late brave sons, whose wit and hand Have brought new trophies to their native land.

    Not far from hence is Boschain,* 1.400 belonging to the Barons of Ogilvy,* 1.401 of very ancient nobility, descended from that Alexander Sheriff of Angus, who was slain in the bloody battle at Harley against the Mac-donalds of the Isles.

    As for the Earls of Angus;* 1.402 Gilchrist of Angus, a per∣son illustrious for his brave exploits under Malcolm the 4th, was the first Earl of Angus, that I read of. About the year 1242 John Comin was Earl of Angus, who died in France; and his Dowager (perhaps heiress of the Earldom) was married to Gilbert Umfravile, an Englishman. For both he and his heirs successively were summoned to the Parliament of England, till the 3d year of K. Richard 2d, under the title of Earls of Angus. But the English Lawyers refused in their In∣struments to own him for an Earl, because Angus was not within the Kingdom of England; till he pro∣duced in open Court the King's Writ, whereby he was summoned to Parliament under the name of Earl of Angus. In the reign of David Brus,* 1.403 Tho. Steward was Earl of Angus, who took Berwick by surprize, but presently lost it again; and a little after died mise∣rably in prison at Dunbritton. The Douglasses, men of haughty minds and invincible hearts, ever since the reign of Robert the 3d, have been Earls of Angus, (after that Geo. Douglass had married the Kings Daugh∣ter) and are reputed the chief and principal Earls of Scotland, whose Office it is to carry the Regal Crown before the Kings at all the solemn Assemblies of the Kingdom. The sixth Earl of Angus of this race, was Archibald, who married Margaret daughter to Henry the 7th, and mother to James the 5th King of Scotland; by whom he had issue Margaret Wife to Matthew Stewart Earl of Lennox; she, after her brother's death without issue, willingly resigned up her right to this Earldom, with the consent of her husband and sons, to David Douglass of Peteindreich, her Uncle's son by the father's side; to the end that by this obligation she might engage that family more closely to her, which was already the nearest allied in bloud. At the same time her son Henry was about to marry Queen Mary; By which marriage King James, Mo∣narch of Great Britain, was happily born for the ge∣neral good of these nations. [h]s 1.404.

    MERNIS.

    THese parts were in Ptolemy's time inhabited by the Vernicones, the same perhaps with Marcellinus's Vecturio∣nes. But this name of theirs is now quite lost, unless we can imagine some little piece of it remains in Mer∣nis. For oftentimes, in common discourse, in the British tongue V is changed into M.

    THis little Province Mernis, butting upon the German Ocean, is of a rich soil, and generally a level and champagne coun∣trey. The most memorable place in it is Dunotyr,* 1.405 a castle advanced upon an high and inac∣cessible rock, looking down on the sea beneath, for∣tified with strong walls and towers at certain di∣stances; which hath long been the seat of the Keiths,* 1.406 a very ancient and noble family; and they, in re∣compence of their valour, have long been hereditary Earls Marshals* 1.407 of the Kingdom of Scotland, and Sheriffs of this Province.* 1.408 In a Porch here, is to be seen that ancient Inscription abovementioned, of a* 1.409 Company belonging to the XXth Legion, the letters whereof the most honourable the present Earl, a great admirer of Antiquity, caused to be gilded† 1.410. Some∣what farther from the sea stands Fordon,* 1.411 honoured by John de Fordon, born here; who with great la∣bour and industry compiled the Scotochronicont 1.412; and to whose studies the modern Scotch Historians are very much indebted. But Fordon was much more honour'd in ancient times by St. Palladius's* 1.413 reliques, formerly (as 'tis thought) deposited here; who in the year 431, was appointed by Pope Caelestine, Apostle of the Scots. [i].

    MARR.

    MARR lies farther up from the sea, be∣ing a large Mediterranean Countrey, and running out about 60 miles in length: towards the west, where it is broadest, it swelleth up in mountains, except where the rivers Dee (Ptolemie's Diva) and the Done, open themselves a way, and make the champagne very fruitful. Up∣on the bank of the Done stands Kildrummy,* 1.414 a great ornament to it, the ancient seat of the Earls of Marr. Not far off is the residence of the Barons Forbois,* 1.415 of a noble and ancient Stock, who took this sirname (being before called Bois) upon the Heir of the Fa∣milie's valiantly killing a huge mighty Boar. But at the very mouth of the river are two towns that give a greater ornament to it; which from the said mouth (called in British Aber) borrowing both of them the same name, are divided by a little field that lies be∣tween. The hithermost of them, which stands nearer to Dee's mouth, is much ennobled by the ho∣nour of a Bishoprick (which King David the first translated hither from Murthlake, a little village) also by the Canons fine houses, an Hospital for the Poor, and a Free-school, built by William Elphingston Bishop of this place in the year 1480; and is called New-Aberdene.* 1.416 The other beyond it, named Old-Aberdene, very famous for the Salmon taken there* 1.417. But J. Johnston, a native hereof, in these verses describes Aberdene thus:

    ABERDONIA.
    Ad Boream porrecta, jugis obsessa superbis Inter connatas eminet una Deas. Mitior algentes Phoebus sic temperat auras Non aestum ut rabidum, frigora nec metuas.

    Page 941-942

    Foecundo ditat Neptunus gurgite, & amnes Piscosi, gemmis alter adauget opes: Candida mens, frons laeta, hilaris, gratissima tellus Hospitibus: morum cultus ubique decens. Nobilitas antiqua, opibus subnixa vetustis, Martiaque invicto pectore corda gerens. Justitiae domus, & studiorum mater honoris, Ingenio ars, certant artibus ingenia. Omnia ei cedunt, meritos genitricis honores Pingere non ulla Ars, ingeniumve valet.
    ABERDENE.
    With circling cliffs her lofty turrets vie, And meet her rival sisters of the sky! So gentle Phoebus warms the sharper air, Nor cold nor heat's extreams her people fear.
    Great Neptune and his sons for fish renown'd With useful floods enrich the fertile ground: In one fair current pretious gems are found.
    True hearts and pleasant looks, and friendly cheer, And honest breeding never fail you here. Old their estates, old is their noble blood; Brave are their souls, and scorn to be subdued. Here steddy justice keeps her awful seat, Wit strives with art, and art contends with wit. But my great Mother's worth and matchless praise Nor art, nor wit can ever hope t' express.

    It is almost incredible what abundance of Salmon there are, as well in these rivers, as others in Scotland, on both sides of the Kingdom; a fish unknown to Pliny (unless it was the* 1.418 Esox of the Rhine,) but very com∣mon and well known in those northern parts of Eu∣rope,* 1.419 having their inside (as he says) of a bright scar∣let colour. They breed in Autumn in little rivers, and most in shallows, where they cover their spawn with sand; at which time they are so very poor and lean, that they seem to have nothing but bones. Of that spawn in the spring following comes a fry of small fish; which making towards the sea, in a little time grow to their full bigness, and then making back again to the rivers they were bred in, struggle against the force of the stream; and wheresoever any hindrance obstructs their passage, with a jerk of their tail, (a certain leap whence probably their name of* 1.420 Salmons) to the amazement of the spectators they whip over, and keep themselves within these rivers till they breed. During which time there is a law against taking them, that is, from the Eighth of September to the First of December. Ad it should seem, they were reckoned amongst the greatest commodities of Scotland; since it hath been provided by law, that they should be sold to the Eng∣lish for nought but English Gold. But these matters I leave for others.

    As for the Earls of Marr;* 1.421 In the reign of Alexan∣der the 3d, William Earl of Marr is named amongst those who were enemies to the King. Whilst David Brus reigned, Donald [was Earl of Marr] and Pro∣tector of the Kingdom; murdered in his bed before the battle at Dyplin, by Edward Balliol and his Eng∣lish Auxiliaries: whose daughter Isabella, King Robert Brus took to his first wife, and had by her Marjorie, mother to Robert Stewart King of the Scots. Under the same David, there is mention made of Thomas Earl of Marr, who was banished in the year 1361. And under Robert the 3d, of Alexander Stewart Earl of Marr, who was slain in the battel at Harley against the Islanders in the year 1411. In K. James the first's time, we read in the Scotochronicon,* 1.422 Alexander Earl of Marr died in the year 1435. natural son of Alexander Stewart Earl of Buchan, son of Robert the second King of Scotland; after whom, as being a Bastard, the King succeeded in the Inheritance. John, a younger son of King James the 2d afterwards bore this title; who being convicted of attempting by Art Magick to take away his Brother's life, was bled to death. And af∣ter him Robert Cockeran was advanced from a* 1.423 Mason to this dignity by King James the 3d, and soon after hang'd by the Nobility. From that time it was dis∣continued, till Queen Mary adorn'd her Bastard Bro∣ther James with this honour; and not long after, (upon its being found that by ancient right the title of Earl of Marr belong'd to John Lord Ereskin) in lieu of Marr she conferr'd upon him the honour and title of Earl of Murray, and created John Ereskin (a person of ancient Nobility) Earl of Marr; whose son of the same Christian name, now enjoys the dig∣nity, and is in both Kingdoms one of his Majesties Privy Council. [k].

    BƲQƲHAN.

    WHere now Buquhan (in Latin Bogha∣nia and Buchania) above the River Done, extends it self towards the Ocean, there were anciently seated the Taizali. Some derive this later name from Boves (Oxen,) whereas the ground is fitter to feed sheep; whose wooll is highly commended. Notwithstand∣ing the Rivers in this Coast every where breed abun∣dance of Salmon, yet they never enter into the River Ratra,* 1.424 as Buchanan hath told us. Neither let it prove to my disadvantage, if I cite his Testimony, although his books were prohibited by authority of Parliament in the year 1584. because many passages in them were fit to be dash'd out. He there reports also, That on the bank of Ratra there is a Cave, near Stany's Castle, whose na∣ture seems worth our taking notice of.* 1.425 The water distilling by drops out of a natural vault, is presently turned into pyramidal stones, and if people did not take the pains to clear the cave now and then, the whole space in a little time would be fill'd up to the top of the vault. Now the stone thus made is of a middle nature betwixt Ice and hard stone, for it is friable, and never arrives to the solidity of Marble. It is hardly worth my while to mention the Clayks,* 1.426 a sort of Geese, believed by some, with great admiration, to grow upon trees here in this coast, and in other places, and when they are ripe, to fall down into the sea; because neither their nests nor eggs cou'd ever any where be found. But those that have seen the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round the world, laid up in the river Thames, can testifie that little birds breed in the old rotten keels of ships; since a great number of such without life and feathers stuck close to the outside of the keel of this ship. Yet I should think that the generation of these birds was not from the logs of wood, but from the sea, term'd by the Poets the Parent of all thingsa 1.427.

    A mighty mass likewise of Amber,* 1.428 as big as the body of a Horse, was (not many years since) thrown up upon this shore. This the learned call Succinum, Glessum, and Chryso-electrum; and Sotacus was of opi∣nion that it was a juice, which amongst the Britains distill'd from trees, ran into the sea, and was there hardned. Tacitus had the same sentiments of it in this passage of his, I should believe,* 1.429 that as there are trees in the secret parts of the east, which sweat out fran∣kincense and balm, so in the Islands and other countreys of the west, there are woods of a more fatty substance, which melting by the hot beams of the near-approaching sun, run into the sea hard by, and being driven by tempestuous weather, float to the opposite shores. But Serapio and the modern Philosophers will have it to work out of a bi∣tuminous sort of earth under the sea and by the sea-side, that the waves in stormy weather cast part of it upon the shore, and that part of it is de∣voured by the fish. But I have digressed too far, and will return into my way; hoping my ingenuous con∣fession will purchase me a pardon.

    In the reign of Alexander the 2d, Alexander Comin had conferr'd upon him the honour of Earl of Bu∣quhan,* 1.430 who married a daughter, and one of the heirs

    Page 943-944

    of Roger de Quircy Earl of Winchester in England; and his grand child by a son brought the same title to Henry Beaumor her husband. For he, in the reign of Edw. the 3d, sat in the Parliament of England under the name of Earl of Buquhan. Afterwards, Alexander Stewart, son to King Robert the 4th, was Earl of this place; succeeded by John, a younger son of Robert Duke of Albany, who being sent for into France (with 7000 Auxiliary Scots) by the French King, Charles the 7th, did extraordinary good ser∣vice against the English; and had so great a reputa∣tion there, that after he had killed Thomas Duke of Clarence, K. Henry the 5th's brother, at Baugy, and got as great a victory over the English, as ever was obtained, he was made Constable of France. But 3 years after, when the fortune of the war turned, he with other valiant Commanders,* 1.431 Archibald Douglas Earl of Wigton and Duke of Tours, &c. was routed at Vernoil by the English, and there slain. Whom yet as the Poet said—

    Aeternum memorabit Gallia cives Grata suos, titulos quae dedit & tumulos. Those grateful France shall ever call her own, Who owe to her their graves and their renown.

    The French cannot but confess, that they owe the preservation of France and recovery of Aquitain (by thrusting out the English in the reigns of Charles the 6th and 7th) in a great measure to the fidelity and valour of the Scots. But afterwards K. James the first (out of pity to Geo. of Dunbar, whom by authority of Parliament he had before divested of the Earldom of March for his father's crimes) gave him the Earl∣dom of Buquhan. And not long after, James, son of James Stewart of Lorn, sirnamed the Black Knight14 1.432, whom he had by Joan of Somerset, obtained this ho∣nour, and left it to his posterity; but not long since, for default of heirs male, it went by a daughter to Douglas, a younger brother of the House of Loch∣levin.

    Beyond Buchan, in the bending back of the shore northwards, lies Boen;* 1.433 anda 1.434 Bamff, a small Sheriff∣dom* 1.435; and Ainza a little tract of less consideration; as also Rothamy Castle, the seat of the Barons of Sal∣ton,* 1.436 sirnamedb 1.437 Abernethy. Beneath these lies Strath-bolgy,* 1.438 that is, the Valley upon the Bolgy, formerly the seat of the Earls of Athol, sirnamed from thence; but now the chief residence of the Marquess of Hunt∣leyc 1.439.* 1.440 For this title K. James the 6th conferred upon Geo. Gordon Earl of Huntley, Lord Gordon and Bad∣zenoth, eminent for his ancient nobility, and his many followers and dependants. Whose ancestors are descended from the Setons, and by authority of Parliament took upon them the name of Gordon, (upon Alexander Seton's marrying the daughter of Sir John Gordon, with whom he had a very noble estate,) and received the honour of the Earl of Hunt∣ley from K. James the second, in the year 1449. [l].

    MƲRRAY.

    BEyond the mountain Grampius (which by a continual range of close join'd hills, as it were, extends its ridge with many risings and sinkings to this very country) the Va∣comagi in ancient times had their habitation upon the Bay of Vararis,* 1.441 where now Murray* 1.442 lies, in Latin Mo∣ravia; noted for its fertility, pleasantness, and pro∣fitable product of fruit-trees. The Spey, a noble ri∣ver, opens a passage through this countrey into the sea; wherein it lodges it self, after it hath watered Rothes Castle; whence the Family of Lesley derive their title of Earl, ever since K. James the 2d ad∣vanced Geo. Lesley to the honour of Earl of Rothes. Of this Spey, thus our Poet Necham:

    Spey loca mutantis praeceps agitator arenae Inconstans certas nescit habere vias. Officium lintris corbis subit, hunc regit audax Cursus labentis nauta fluenta sequens. Great Spey drives forward with impetuous force Huge banks of sand; and knows no certain course. Here for a boat an Osier-pannier, row'd By some bold peasant, glides along the flood.

    The river Loxa, mentioned by Ptolemy, now call'd Losse, hides it self hard by in the sea. Near this we have a sight of Elgin; in which (as also in Forres adjoining) J. Dunbar of Cumnock, descended from the House of the Earls of March, does justice as hereditary She∣riff. But when it is now ready to enter the sea, it finds a more plain and soft soil, and spreads it self in∣to a lake well stored with Swans, wherein the Herb Olorina grows plentifully. Here, upon it stands Spiny* 1.443 Castle, of which Alexander of the House of Lindsay is now the first Baron. As also Kinloss,* 1.444 a near neigh∣bour, formerly a famous Monastery (call'd by some Kill-flos, from certain flowers there miraculously spring∣ing up on a sudden where the corps of King Duff, murdered and here hidden, was first found* 1.445) hath for its Lord, Edward Brus, Master of the Rolls in England, and one of His Majestie's Privy Council, created by K. James the 6th Baron Brus of Kinlossa 1.446.

    Thus much for the shore. More inward, where Bean Castle now stands, (look'd upon to be that Bana∣tia* 1.447 mentioned by Ptolemy) there was found in the year 1460, a Marble Vessel very finely engraved, and full of Roman coins. Hard by is Nardin or Narne,* 1.448 an He∣reditary Sheriffdom of the Cambells of Lorn; where in a Peninsula there stood a fort of a mighty height, built with wonderful works, and formely held by the Danes. A little off is Logh-Nesse, a very large lake, three and twenty miles long; the water whereof is so warm, that even in this cold and frozen climate, it never freezes: from this by a very small Isthmus of hills, the Logh Lutea or Lothea (which by Aber lets it self into the western Ocean) is divided. Upon these lakes there stood anciently two noted fortifications, called from the loghs, one Innerness, the other Inner∣lothy. Innerness hath the Marquess of Huntley for its hereditary Sheriff; who hath a large Jurisdiction here∣about* 1.449. But take here what J. Johnston writes up∣on these two places.

    INNERNESS and INNERLOCHY.
    Imperii veteris duo propugnacula quondam, Primaque regali moenia structa manu, Turribus oppositis adverso in limine spectant Haec Zephyrum, Solis illa orientis equos. Amnibus hinc atque hinc cincta, utique piscibus amnes Foecundi. haec portu perpete tuta patet. Haec fuit, at jacet heu, jam nunc sine nomine tellus, Hospita quae Regum, est hospita facta feris. Altera spirat adhuc tenuis sufflamina vitae, Quae dabit & fati turbine victa manus. Dic ubi nunc Carthago potens? ubi Martia Roma? Trojaque & immensae ditis opes Asiae? Quid mireris enim mortalia cedere fatis Corpora? cum videas oppida posse mori. Two stately forts the realm's old guardians stood, The first great walls of royal builders prov'd. Their lofty turrets on the shores were shown, One to the rising, one the setting sun.

    Page 945-946

    All round, well stock'd with fish, fair rivers lay, And one presents a safe and easie bay. Such once it was; but now a nameless place, Where Princes lodg'd, the meanest cattel graze. T'other survives, and faintly breaths as yet, But must e're long submit to conqu'ring fate.
    Where's haughty Carthage now with all her power? Where's Rome; and Troy that rul'd as great before? Where the vast riches of the Asian shore?
    No wonder then that we frail men should die, When towns themselves confess mortality.

    In the reign of K. Robert Brus, Thomas Randolph, his sister's son (a person that took infinite pains for his country, and met with much opposition) was very famous under the title of Earl of Murray.* 1.450 In the reign of K. Rob. 2. John de Dunbar had the King's daughter, and with her the Earldom of Murray as an amends for her lost virginity. Under K. James the 2d, William Creichton, Lord Chancellor of the King∣dom, and Archibald Douglass, had a violent contest for this Earldom, when against the laws and ancient customs of the Realm, Douglass who had married the younger daughter of James de Dunbar Earl of Mur∣ray, was preferr'd before Creichton, who had married the elder; by the power and great interest that Wil∣liam Earl Douglass had with the King: which was so very great, that he did not only advance this brother to the Earldom of Murray, but another brother like∣wise to the Earldom of Ormond, and two of his Cou∣sins to the Earldoms of Angus and Morton. But this his greatness (a thing never to be trusted to when so exorbitant) was his ruin soon after. Under King James the 5th, his own brother, whom he had con∣stituted Vicegerent of the Kingdom, enjoyed this honour. And within our memory, James, a natural son of K. James the 5th, had this honour conferr'd upon him by his sister Qu. Mary; who ill requited her, when having gotten some few of the Nobility on his side, he deposed her; a most wicked precedent for crowned Heads. But the punishment of heaven soon fell upon him, being quickly after shot through with a musquet bullet. His only daughter brought this title to her husband James Steward of Down, descended of the Blood Royal, to wit, of the Dukes of Albany; who being slain by some that envied him, left behind him his son James, his successor in this ho∣nour. [m].

    LOQHƲABRE.

    ALl that tract of land beyond the Nesse, which bends down to the western coast, and joins to the lake Aber, is thence called Loghuabre, (that is in the ancient British Tongue, The Mouth of the Lakes;) That which lies towards the northern coast, Rosse.

    Loghuabre abounds much in pastures and woods, and hath some veins of iron, but very little produce of corn. It is inferior to none for its lakes and rivers, admirably well stock'd with fish. Upon Logh-lothy stands Innerlothy,* 1.451 strengthned with a fort, and for∣merly of much note, occasioned by the great resort of Merchants thither; but having been ruined by the depredations and insults of the Danes and Norwegians, it hath been so abandoned and disused for many ages, that there scarce remains now any appearance of it: which is intimated in the verses I produced a little above.

    I never yet read of any Earls that Loghuabre hath had;* 1.452 but about the year 1050, of one Banqhuo, a most noted Thane, made away by Macbeth the Bastard, (after by murder and blood-shed he had seized the Kingdom) out of fear and jealousie. For he had found by a prophecy of certain* 1.453 Witches, that the time would come, when after Macbeth's line was ex∣pired, Banqhuo's posterity should one day obtain the Kingdom, and by a long succession reign [in Scot∣land.] Which indeed fell out accordingly. For Fleanch, Banqhuo's son, who unknown in the dark escaped the snares that were laid for him, fled into Wales, where for some time he kept himself close: and having afterwards married Nesta the daughter of Griffith ap Llewelin, Prince of North-Wales, he begat Walter, who returning into Scotland,* 1.454 suppress'd the rebellion of the Islanders with the reputation of so much bravery, and managed the King's revenues in these parts with so great prudence, that the King made him Stewart of the whole Kingdom of Scot∣land. Whereupon this name of an Office gave the sirname of Stewart to his posterity; which spreading through all parts of Scotland in many noble branches, being advanced to several honours, hath long flourished there. Three hundred and thirty years ago, Robert Stewart, a descendant of this House, in right of Mar∣jorie his mother, daughter of K. Robert Brus, obtain∣ed the Kingdom of Scotland. And now lately James Stewart the 6th of that name, King of Scotland, in right of Margaret his Great Grandmother, daughter of Henry the 7th (by the divine appointment of the ruler of all things) with the general applause of all Nations, is advanced to the Monarchy of Great-Britain.15 1.455.

    ROSSE.

    ROsse, so call'd from an old Scottish word, which some interpret a Promontory, others a Peninsula, was inhabited by a people called Cantae* 1.456 (which term in effect intimates as much) in Ptolemy's time. This extends it self to such a wideness, that it hath a prospect of both Oceans. On that side, where it looks upon the Ver∣givian [or western] Ocean, it rises up in many swel∣ling mountains, with woods here and there, full of stags, roebucks, fallow deer, and wild fowl. On the other side, next the German sea, it is more fruitful, having much corn and meadow grounds, and is much better cultivated.* 1.457 In the very entrance into it, Ard∣manoch, no small territory, (which gives the title [of Baron] to the second sons of the Kings of Scotland) shoots up in very high mountains always covered with snow. I have been told by some persons very strange stories of their heighth;* 1.458 and yet the ancient Geo∣metricians have written, that neither the depth of the sea, nor the heighth of the mountains, exceed by line and level, 10 stadia, that is a mile and a quarter. Which, notwithstanding, they that have beheld Te∣nariff amongst the Canary Islands, (15 leagues high) and have sailed in the neighbouring sea, will by no means admit for a truth. In these parts stands Lovet, a Castle and Barony of the noble family of the Fra∣sers, made Barons, as 'tis reported, by K. James 2d, for the singular services they had done the Crown of Scotland. Which family, in a quarrel, had been en∣tirely extinguished by the Clan. Ranalds, a most bloody people, had not fourscore of the principal of them, by the providence of God, left their wives big with child at home; who being delivered of so many sons, re∣newed and restored it.

    Page [unnumbered]

    At Nesse-mouth stood Chanonry, formerly a noted place, so called from a rich College of Canons in the flourishing times of the Church; in which there is erected a See for the Bishop of Rosse* 1.459. Hard by, Cromartie is placed, where Urqhuart, a Gentleman of noble extraction, administers Justice as hereditary Sheriff of this District: and this is so commodious, and so safe a Harbour for any Fleet, though never so great, that Mariners and Geographers give it the name of Pertus Salutis,* 1.460 or the Haven of safety* 1.461.

    Above it is Littus Altum,* 1.462 mentioned by Ptolemy, called now, as it seems, Tarbarth; for there the shore rises to a great heighth; enclosed on one side with Cramer, a very secure port; on the other, with the river Celnius, now Killian.* 1.463 And thus much of the places lying towards the Eastern Ocean. Into the Western Sea runs the river Longus, mentioned by Ptolemy, now called Logh-Longas; next, the Cerones* 1.464 anciently dwelt where now Assen-shire is, a Country divided into several parcels by the breakings in of the sea.

    It would be a very difficult piece of work to make up a perfect succession of the Earls of Ross,* 1.465 out of the several Historians. About 400 years ago Fer∣qhuard flourished under this title; but upon the failure of issue male, it came by a daughter to Walter Lesley, (for his valiant atchievements under Lewis the Empe∣ror, deservedly stiled the Noble or Generous Knight;) by whom he had Alexander Earl of Ross, and a daughter married to Donald Lord of the Western Isles. This Alexander had issue one only daughter, who passed over all her right and title to Robert Duke of Albany; which so enrag'd Donald of the Isles, that in the reign of James the 3d, he proclaimed himself King of the Isles, and Earl of Ross, and harrassed all the Country round about with fire and sword. At length, King James the 3d, by Authority of Parlia∣ment, in the year 1476, so firmly annext the Earl∣dom of Ross to the Crown, that it might not be law∣ful for his successors to alienate from it either the Earl∣dom it self, or any part thereof; or upon any ac∣count grant the same to any person, but only to the King's second sons lawfully begotten. Whereupon Charles the King's second son, Duke of York, now uses and enjoys that title.

    SƲTHERLAND.

    BEyond Ross lies Sutherland, looking towards the German Ocean; a countrey more fit for breeding of cattle, than bearing of corn. Here there are hills of white marble,* 1.466 a thing very unusual in so cold a climate; but it is al∣most of no use, because that excess in buildings, and that vain ostentation of riches has not yet reached these remote countreys. Here stands Dunrobin* 1.467 Castle, a place of the greatest note in these parts* 1.468, the principal seat of the ancient Earls of Sutherland,* 1.469 of the family (if I mistake not) of Murray. Of whom, William in the reign of King Robert Brus, is most famous, who married K. David's own sister, and had by her a son, whom K. David declared his successor in the Kingdom, and to whom he made his Nobles swear Allegiance. But he died a little after without issue, and the Earldom in the end came hereditarily by a daughter and heir to A. Gordon, of the family of the Earls of Huntley. [o].

    CATHNES.

    SOmewhat higher lies Cathnes, butting upon the German Ocean, indented (as it were) by the many windings and breakings of the shore. Here in Ptolemie's time dwelt the Catini, falsly written in some Copies Carini,* 1.470 amongst whom the same Ptolemy places the river Ila,* 1.471 which may seem to be the now Wifle. Grazing and fishing are the chief income of the inhabitants of this countrey. The chief castle therein is called Girnego, the general residence of the Earls of Cathnes. The Episcopal See is at Dornok, a village (if it were not for that) obscure; where likewise K. James the 4th appointed the Sheriff of Cathnes to reside, or else at Wik, as occasions should require.16 1.472.

    The Earls of Cathnes* 1.473 were anciently the same with the Earls of the Orcades; but afterwards became di∣stinct; and by the eldest daughter of one Malise given in marriage to William Sincler the King's Pant∣ler, his posterity came to the honor of being Earls of Cathnes, which they still enjoy. [p].

    STRATH-NAVERN.

    THE utmost coast of all Britain, which with the front of the shore looks full a∣gainst the North-pole, and hath the middle of the tail of Ursa Major (which, as Car∣dan was of opinion, causes translations of Empires) just over its head; was inhabited, as we may see in Ptolemy, by the Cornabii.* 1.474 Amongst them he places the river Nabeus;* 1.475 which names are so nearly related in sound, that the people seem to have taken their name from the river they dwelt upon. Neither is the modern name Strath-Navern, that is, the Valley by the Navern, altogether unlike them in sound. This coun∣try hath little cause to brag of its fertility: by reason of the sharpness of the air it is very thinly inhabited, and thereupon extreamly infested with the fiercest of Wolves;* 1.476 which, to the great damage of the coun∣trey, not only furiously set upon whole droves of cattle, but even upon the inhabitants themselves, to their manifest danger. Insomuch, that not only in this, but many other parts of Scotland, the Sheriffs and respective inhabitants are bound by Act of Parlia∣ment in their several Sheriffdoms, to go a hunting thrice every year to destroy the Wolves and their Whelps. But (if in this northern countrey that may be any comfort to them) it certainly, of all Britain, hath the shortest nights, and longest days. For by its being distanced 59 degrees and 40 minutes from the Equator, the longest day* 1.477 is 18 hours and 25 mi∣nutes, and the shortest night 5 hours and 45 minutes. So that the ancient Panegyrist was in the wrong, when he said that the sun did not set at all here, but slipt aside, and glanced upon the Horizon; relying upon the authority of Tacitus, That the extreme points and plain levels of the earth having low shades, rais'd up no darkness at all. But Pliny speaks more truth and reason, where he treats of the longest days, according

    Page 949-950

    to the inclination of the solar Circle to the Horizon: The longest days, says he, in Italy, are fifteen hours, in Britain seventeen, where the light nights in Summer prove that by experience, which reason would oblige one to believe, That at the Solstice, when the Sun approaches nearer to the Pole of the World, the places of the earth under [the Pole] have day six months,* 1.478 through the light's having but a narrow compass; and night for so long, when it is far remote in Winter.

    In this utmost tract, by Ptolemy carried farther Eastward, whereas indeed it bears full North (for which Roger Bacon in his Geography, taxed him long ago,) Tacitus says, That a prodigious vast space of land runs out in length, and grows narrow like a wedge. Here three Promontories shoot out into the Sea, men∣tioned by ancient Writers. Berubium,* 1.479 now Urdehead, near the village Bernswale; Virvedrum, now Dunsby, aliàs Duncans-bay, looked upon as the remotest Pro∣montory of Britain: Orcas, now Howburn, placed by Ptolemy over against the Orcades, as the utmost of them all. This is likewise called by Ptolemy Tarve∣drum and Tarvisium,* 1.480 so named (if I guess aright) be∣cause it determines Britain. For Tarvus,* 1.481 in the British tongue signifies an ending, with which give me leave to make an end of this Book. I shall treat of the O∣cades, Ebudes, and Shetland,* 1.482 in their proper places.

    Thus have I run over Scotland more briefly than the dignity of so great a Kingdom deserves; nor do I at all doubt, but that some one hereafter may give a larger draught of it with a more exquisite pen, with more certainty, and better information; since (as I said before) the greatest of Princes hath now laid o∣pen to us these remote Countries, hitherto shut up. In the mean time, if I have not been so vigilant as I ought (the most watchful may sometimes take a nod;) or if any mistake in this unknown tract hath led me from the truth (as nothing is so common as error;) I hope the courteous Reader, upon my owning it, will grant me a pardon, and kindly direct me into the right way.

    Additions to CALEDONIA.

    IN the description of this part of Scotland, before we come to Fife (which our Author first touches upon) we are to take a view of two little Shires that lye to the west, Clackmanan shire, and Kinross-shire.

    * 1.483[a] Clackmanan-shire (so called from the head burgh of it, Clackmanan) is bounded to the north by the Ochill hills, to the south by the Firth of Forth, to the east with part of Perthshire, and to the west with part of Sterlingshire. 'Tis about eight miles in length; and where broadest, but five. Towards the Firth it is a plain Country, and a fertile soil; the rest is fitter for pasture; but that below the Ochill-hills abounds both with Grains and pasture. About Alloa and Clackma∣nan they have great store of Coal-pits, the Coal whereof (together with their Salt) furnish a foreign trade. It is watered with the river Devan, which runs six miles through the shire.

    * 1.484Clackmanan is seated upon a rising ground, the Castle whereof is a stately dwelling, with fine gar∣dens and good Inclosures.

    * 1.485Alloa is a pleasant little town, with a small haven for ships, where is a Castle, the chief residence of the Earl of Marr, hereditary Governor of Sterling-Castle. It is also adorned with fine Gardens and inclo∣sures.

    * 1.486[b] Kinross-shire is another little tract, lying to the north, so called from a town seated in the middle of the Shire, not far from a Loch, about four miles in length, and as many in breadth, which abounds with Pykes, Trouts, &c. with all sorts of water-fowl. It has one Island, upon which the Castle stands; and another, wherein are to be seen the ruines of the Priory of Portmolloch, which belonged to Monks of St. Augustin's Order: 'tis called St. Serf's inch, and was anciently the residence of some of the Kuldees. Out of this Loch flows the water of Levin.

    Between the town and the Loch, is a pleasant plain, where Sir William Bruce, the Proprietor, has built a stately house, which for the goodness of the stone, the curious Architecture, the avenues, gar∣dens, inclosures, together with the pleasant prospect of the Lough and the Castle, yields to few seats in Scotland.

    [c] The Sheriffdom of FIFE was anciently called Ross; the remains of which name are still pre∣served in Culross, i.e. the back or hinder part of Ross, and Kinrose, i.e. the head of Ross. The name of Fife it had from Fifus, a Noble man, to whom it was given by King Keneth the second, for his great service against the Picts. The Sibbalds of Balgonie, for more than an hundred years were Hereditary Sheriffs of it; and upon the failing of that Family, the Sheriffdom was transferred to the Family of Ro∣thess, in which it still continues. To the north, it is divided from Angus by the Firth of Tay; to the north-west, from part of Perth-shire by the same Firth of Tay, meeting also with a part of Strathern; to the west, it hath the Ochill-hills, Kinross-shire, and part of Perth-shire; to the South, the firth of Forth, dividing it from the Lothians; and to the east, the German Ocean. 'Tis in length thirty two miles, and about seventeen wide. To the west it is more mountainous, to the east much plainer. The north and south parts are very fertile in corn, and full of Towns with good bays and harbors; but the middle is more proper for pasture. On the south side also, there is much coal, and many salt-pans, where ve∣ry good salt is made. They have a quarry at Dalgate of excellent free stone, employ'd in the best pieces of Architecture; and near the water of Ore they find Lead: as also many fine Chrystals of several colours at the Bin and at Orrock. They have also several Mineral Waters, as the Spaw at Kinghorn and Ball∣grigie.

    Culross* 1.487 * 1.488 is seated on a descent; and its chief Com∣modities are Salt and Coals. Its greatest ornament is the stately building of the Earl of Kincardin, with the gardens and Terrace-walks about it, which has a pleasant prospect to the very mouth of the River Forth.

    St. Andrews* 1.489 * 1.490 takes its name from St. Andrew (whose bones are said to have been brought over hi∣ther from Patras in Peloponnesus, by Regulus a Gre∣cian Monk, in the year 368) and was the principal See of the ancient Culdees. The City lyes towards the east, with a pleasant prospect to the Ocean; and has a harbour for ships. It had formerly a very strong Castle, some remains whereof are yet to be seen upon the rocks to the north; and the ruines of the Cathedral Church and Monastery show their an∣cient magnificence. The chief Church is that called the New Church (not far from the New Colledge) wherein is a very stately monument of Archbishop Sharp; they have also another Church, which is called St. Leonard's. But their greatest ornaments, are the three Colleges. 1. St. Salvator, common∣ly called the Old College, founded by James Kennedy, Bishop of St. Andrews, together with a Church, wherein he has a curious Monument. Dr. Skene Principal, has of late repair'd and augmented it; and also founded a Library, which is now very well furnished with books. 2. St. Leonard's College, was founded by James Hepburn, Prior of St. Andrews; in which are several Professors; the Principal, who is always Doctor of Divinity, and the four Professors of Philosophy; to whom Sir John Scot added a Philolo∣gy-Professor, with a liberal Salary, and augmented the Library with the gift of several considerable Volumes,

    Page 951-952

    since encreased by the great Collection of Books left to it by Sir John Wedderburne. 3. The New College, was founded by James Beaton, Archbishop, wherein are two Professors, always Doctors of Divinity, the one stiled Principal Professor of Theology, the other on∣ly Professor of Theology. To these was added of late a Professor of Mathematicks; for the improve∣ment of which Science, the first Professor, Mr. James Gregory, got an Observatory erected in the College-garden, and furnished them with many Mathemati∣cal Instruments.

    As the coast of this Shire is accommodated with several convenient harbours, so is the Country all o∣ver adorned with stately houses of the Nobility and Gentry.

    Near Doctan (a village belonging to the Countess of Rothesse) upon a rising ground, there is a stone fixed in a Pedestal, and upon it the figure of one on horse∣back engraven, with some old Characters like Runick, and something like a Scroll upon one of the sides.

    [d] The Stewartrie of STRATHERN* 1.491 seems to be the lerne, mentioned by Roman Writers. For in it are many Roman Camps, one particularly at Ardoch ve∣ry remarkable, the figure and description whereof is in the account of the Thule, written by Sir Robert Sibbalds. Besides which, there is a Via Militaris, or Roman high-way towards Perth; several Roman Medals have also been found, and of late two Fibulae curiously enamelled, with a Sepulchral-stone, the Inscription whereof, the aforesaid Thule has given us an account of.

    The Ochil-hills, which run along the South parts of this Shire, abound with metals and minerals; parti∣cularly, they find good Copper, and the Lapis Cala∣minaris; as in Glen-Lyon they meet with Lead. Here is great want of Coal, but their excellent Peats, and the abundance of wood, supply that defect.

    They have several Seats of the Nobility and Gentry: Drumond-Castle,* 1.492 the chief residence of the Earl of Perth, hereditary Stewart of Stratherne. Kincairne,* 1.493 belong∣ing to the Marquis of Montross. Dunkeld,* 1.494 where is a stately house, the residence of the Marquiss of Athole, Sheriff of the Shire, with several others.

    Dumblane* 1.495 * 1.496 is a pleasant little town, on the bank of the river Allan, where the ruines of the Bishops and regular Canons houses are to be seen. Here was also a Church of excellent workmanship, part of which remains yet entire. In the ruines of it is an ancient Picture, representing the Countess of Stra∣therne with her children, kneeling and asking a blessing from St. Blanus, cloathed in his Pontifical habit. Not long since, Robert Leighton was Bishop of this place, a man of an exemplary life and conversation. At his death, he left all his books, both Manuscripts and o∣thers, to the use of the Diocess of Dumblane, and mor∣tify'd a sum for erecting a Library; as a Salary for a Library-keeper was mortify'd by the same Bishop's sister's son. It gives the title of Vicount of Dumblane to his Grace the Duke of Leeds. The Lord William Drummond, Vicount of Strath-allan, hath here a very fine Dwelling, and considerable revenues in the Coun∣try all round.

    [e] The Shire of Argile* 1.497 and Perth, with the Coun∣tries adjacent, seem to have been formerly inhabited by the Horesti, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or Mountaineers, mentioned by Tacitus, viz. the true ancient Scots, who came from Ireland, and possessed themselves of the West-Isles, and of these Countries. For distinction's sake, they were called the Northern Picts, the same with Ammianus Marcellinus's Dicalidones, which Buchanan (agreeably to the meaning of Horesti, and the Highlanders) reads Duncaledonii. By the the Panegy∣rist Eumenius, they are named Hiberni, soli Britanni; and by the Writers of the middle age, their Coun∣try is called Hibernia, as is proved in the Description of Thule, writ by Sir Robert Sibbalds.

    These two Counties, with the Western Isles, made up the Kingdom of the Scots, whilst the rest of Scot∣land was under the Romans and Picts. Afterwards, the whole Country came under one King, namely, Kenneth the second, who was called Rex Scotorum.

    The Shire of ARGILE* 1.498 had formerly two She∣rifdoms, Argile and Tarbert; but now they are uni∣ted into one which comprehends Kantyre, Knapdale, Askeodnish, Cowell, in which is Denoun the Bishop of Argile's seat, Lorne, and many of the west Isles. To the east it is joyned to Perthshire, to the north-east it touches upon Lochaber, to the north-west it hath several Isles, and to the south the Irish-sea, and the Firth of Clyde. In length 'tis about six score miles, and in breadth some forty miles. The sea in many pla∣ces runs up a great way into the land, in long bays which they call Loughs. The Tract properly called Argile lyes between Lock-fyne, wherein is a great Her∣ring-fishing, and Loch-Aw, a fresh water Loch, twenty four miles long, and one broad; out of which the River of Aw runs for some six or seven miles, and then enters Loch-Ediff. The whole shire is moun∣tainous, and the Inhabitants, who speak the Irish, live mostly by their hunting and fishing.

    It's chief town is Innererra, a Burgh-Royal, near which is the Castle, the chief residence of the Earl of Argile, adorned with fine gardens standing upon the water of Eira, where it falls into Lochfyne.

    [f] The Southermost part of Argileshire is KIN∣TYRE,* 1.499 above thirty miles long, and eight or nine broad.

    It has in it a burgh of Barony, situate upon the lough of Kilkerran, called Campbell-Town,* 1.500 where is a safe harbour for Ships, having an Island in the mouth of the bay.

    [g] The shire of PERTH (so called from Perth* 1.501 a burgh Royal, and the head burgh of the County) to the north and north-west hath Badenoch and Lo∣chabyre, to the north-east it is bounded with Marr, to the west with Argileshire, to the south-west with Dum∣bartonshire, to the south with Clackmannanshire, part of Sterlingshire, and the river and firth of Forth; to the South-east, it hath Kinrosshire and Fife; and to the east, Angus. The length of it from east to west is above fifty two miles, the breadth about for∣ty eight. The high grounds are good pasture, and the low very fruitful in corn.

    At the Meagile there is an ancient Monument of stone cut with several figures, said to be the burial place of Queen Vanara, who had her dwelling place three miles benorth upon a hill called Barray, where are the ruines of a great building.

    Dunkell * is surrounded with pleasant woods, at the foot of the Grampian hills, on the north side of Tay. The ruins of the Cathedral Church are still to be seen. 'Tis the chief Market Town of the High-lands; and is of late very much adorned with stately buildings, erected by the Marquiss of Athol.

    [h] ANGUS* 1.502 (the head town whereof is Forfar, whence it's likewise called the shire of Forfar) is bounded upon the South with the Ocean and the firth of Tay; upon the West and North-west, 'tis divided from Perthshire by a line twenty seven miles long; towards the North, the ridge of Binchinnin-moun∣tains, part it from the Brae of Marr; and to the East it is separated from the Mernes by the water of Tarf, and a line drawn from it to the water of North-Eske, which to its mouth continues to divide this shire from the Mernes. 'Tis in length about twenty eight miles, and in breadth about twenty. They have several Quarries of free-stone, and much slate, with both which they drive a good trade. Near the Castle of Innermarkie there are Lead-mines; and they find great plenty of Iron-ore near the wood of Dalboge. The higher ground, called the Brae, abounds with Hart, Hind, Roe-buck, Doe, and Fowl; and their Salmond-trade turns to a good account.

    Dundee* 1.503 * 1.504 (so called from Dun a hill, and the river Tay, on the north side whereof it is situated) stands in a pleasant plain, and is adorned with excel∣lent buildings of all sorts. It hath two Churches, a high steeple, a harbour for ships of burthen, and a considerable trade with strangers. The Inhabitants are generally rich; and those who fall into decay, have a large Hospital provided for them. As this

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    town formerly gave the title of Earl, and dignity of Constable to the chief of the Scrimgers; so hath it of late afforded the title of Vicount to the Lord Dundee, who was killed at the Battle of Gillikrankie.

    * 1.505 Brechin is a market-town, considerable for Salmon, Horses, Oxen and Sheep. It has a stately bridge over the river Esk; and shows the ruins of the Bi∣shop's Palace, and of the Canons houses. 'Tis like∣wise famous for a memorable slaughter of the Danes not far from it. In this County it was, that the Ge∣neral of the Danes was killed by the valiant Keith, who thereupon was advanced to great honours by King Malcolm the second, who was present in per∣son at the battle. Upon the General's Grave there was a high stone erected, which carries the name of Camus's Cross. And about ten miles distant from this, at Aberlemno, is another Cross, erected upon some of the Danes killed there. Both these have some antique pictures and letters upon them.

    Aberbrothock, a Royal burgh, hath a harbour for ships, and an Abbey, where King William the Foun∣der lyeth, with a stately Monument upon him.

    This Country has several seats of Nobility and Gentry.

    * 1.506[i] The shire of MEARNS is so called from Mearn, a valiant Gentleman, to whom it was given by Kenneth the second; called also the shire of Kin∣carden from the ancient town of Kincarden. To the east it is bounded with the sea, to the south with the water of North-Esk, to the west with the Grans∣bain-hills, and to the north with the River of Dee. In length it is about twenty six miles, or (as some say) twenty eight miles, in breadth about twenty. Upon the sea-coasts they have several convenient Crecks, and some good harbours, whereof Stone-hive is one of the best; and for its greater safety, the Earl Marshal (who has a Salmon-fishing upon the north side of the harbour) is now raising a Peer of stone.

    Where the water of Cowy falls into the sea, stands Cowy,* 1.507 a free burgh. Beneath the town are to be seen the ruines of a Castle, built (as 'tis reported by Mal∣colm Kenmore, who made the town a free Burgh. On the Lands of Arduthie and Redcloak, are some trenches to be seen, cast up by the Danes at one of their Invasi∣ons made upon those parts, and round the hill of Urie there is a deep ditch, where the Scots encamped.

    * 1.508Dunnotyr-Castle stands upon a rock washed by the sea on three sides, and joyned to the Land only by a narrow neck. Towards the entrance of the Gate is a huge rock near forty ells high, which one would think were always just ready to fall. The Court is a large plot of green ground; and the old buildings, se∣ven story high, have exceeding thick walls. It had once a Church, which was demolished in the late Ci∣vil wars. In the new buildings there are some rooms very stately, and a Closet wherein is the Library of the family. Within the Close, there is a large Ci∣stern, about thirty cubits about. Not far from this place, is a dropping Cave where the water petri∣fies. St. Padie's Church here is famous, for being the burial place of St. Palladius.

    * 1.509[k] ABERDEEN-SHIRE (so called from the chief burgh in it) contains the Countries or Marre, Fourmanteen, Garioch, Strathbogie, and that part of Bu∣chan, which lyeth south to the water of Ugie. To the South it is bounded with the River Dee and the Gransbain mountains; to the north-west and west it hath Bamf-shire and the river of Doverne; to the east, the Ocean; and to the north, part of Murray-Firth. In length it's about forty six miles, and in breadth twenty eight. The Inhabitants are generally very civil and polite. They find here a spotted sort of Marble, and much Slate; and in the waters, abun∣dance of Pearls, some of them very big, and of a fine colour. They have Deer in great abundance. And the Eagles have their Nests upon the Craigs of Pennan.

    Old Aberdeen* 1.510 is the Bishop's Seat, and hath a Ca∣thedral Church, commonly call'd St. Machars, large and stately, built by several Bishops of this See. In this Church was formerly a Library; but about the year 1560, it was almost wholly destroyed, so that now only the ruines remain. The King's College, (so called from King James the fourth, who assumed the Patronage of it) is seated upon the south side of the town, and for neatness and stateliness, much ex∣ceeds the rest of the houses. One side is covered with Slate, the rest with Lead. The windows of the Church (wherein is a fine monument of Bishop El∣phingston the Founder) were formerly very remarka∣ble for their painted glass; and something of their ancient splendor still remains. The Steeple, besides others, hath two bells of a very extraordinary big∣ness; the top is vaulted with a double cross Arch, a∣bove which is a King's crown, having eight corners upheld by as many pillars of stone, a round globe of stone, with two gilded crosses closing the crown. Hard by the Church there is a Library well stock'd with Books, enlarged lately by those which Doctor Henry Scougal, Professor of Divinity there, and his Father, Bishop of Aberdeen, gave to it. The College has a Primate or Principal, a Professor of Divinity, a Professor of the Civil Law, a Professor of Physick, a Sub-Principal, who is also Professor of Philosophy, three other Philosophy Professors, and a Professor of the Languages.

    New Aberdeen,* 1.511 * 1.512 about a mile from the Old, as it is the Capital of the Sheriffdom of Aberdeen, and the Seat of the Sheriff for tryal of causes; so does it much exceed the rest of the Cities in the north of Scotland in bigness, trade, and beauty. The air is wholsome, and the Inhabitants well bred. The Streets are paved with flint, or a very hard sort of stone like it; and the houses are very beautiful, generally four Stories high or more, which having for the most part Gar∣dens and Orchards behind them, make the whole City at a distance look like a Wood. In the High street there is a Church of Franciscans, of free-stone, begun by Bishop Elphingston, and finished by Gavin Dumbar, Bishop of the place. The same Gavin built also a bridge of seven Arches (over the river Dee) a∣bout a mile from the City. But the greatest orna∣ment of this City, is its College, called the Mareshallian Academy, as being founded by George Keith, Earl Marshal, in the year 1693, which the City of Aber∣deen hath very much adorned with several additional buildings. Besides a Primary-Professor (who is called Principal) it has four Professors of Philosophy, one of Divinity, and one of Mathematicks. There is also a famous Library founded by the City, supplied with Books by the benefactions of several learned men, and well furnished with mathematical Instruments. This College, with that in the New Town, make up one University, called the University of King Charles. Add to these, the School-house (founded by Dr. Dune) which has one head Master and three Ushers; and the Musick-School. St. Nicholas's Church (the Ca∣thedral) is built of Free-stone, and covered with lead. Formerly it was divided into three Churches; the biggest was called the Old Church, another the New Church, and a third the Arch'd-Church. They have also an Alms-house for the maintenance of such Inha∣bitants as are old and poor; with three Hospitals, founded by several Persons.

    The City is built upon three hills, but the greatest part upon the highest; and the outer parts are spread out upon the plain; from whence there is an easie access by an ascent every way. It had formerly a Mint, as appears by silver Coins stamped there with this Inscription, Urbs Aberdeae, which are still pre∣served in the Closets of the curious.

    At the West end of the City, is a little round hill, at the foot whereof there breaks out a fountain of clear water. And in the middle another spring bub∣bles out, called the Aberdonian-Spaw, coming near the Spaw-water in the Bishoprick of Liege, both in taste and quality.

    Besides Aberdeen, Kintor is a Burgh-Royal upon the Don, and giveth title to the Earl of Kintor.* 1.513 And Inerurie,* 1.514 erected into a Burgh-Royal by King Robert Bruce, upon account of his having gain'd a signal victory at it. Upon the South side of the water of Ugie stands Peterhead, which has a Road that will contain some hundreds of ships; and at this place it is high-water when the Moon is directly South.

    Page [unnumbered]

    * 1.515In many places of this Shire, there are great stones set in a circle, and one of the greatest in the middle, toward the South; which seem to have been places of worship in the times of Heathenism.

    * 1.516In several places also there are Obelisks, some with figures upon them: one would imagine they had been set up for monuments of battles. And they have likewise several Cairns of stones,* 1.517 some whereof are upon the tops of mountains. In some of them bones have been found; and in one they met with the head of an Ax of brass, which seems to have been employ'd in their sacrifices.

    The dropping Cave of Slains is very remarkable; of the petrified substance whereof they make excel∣lent Lime.

    The Nobility and Gentry have a great many plea∣sant seats all over this County.

    * 1.518[l] The Shire of BAMFE (so called from Bamfe, the chief Burgh) comprehends that part of Buchan which lyes North of the River Ugie, with the Coun∣tries of Strathdoverne, Boin, Enzie, Strathaven, and Balvenie. To the South is is separated from that part of Buchan which belongeth to Aberdeenshire, by the water of Ugie: to the East it hath the water of Do∣verne; to the West the water of Spey; to the South-west it hath Badenoch and the Brae of Mar; and Mur∣ray-firth on the North. The length from West to East is about 32 miles, and the breadth about 30. In Balvenie is found the stone of which Alom is made; and in the country of Boin great quarries of spotted marble have been discovered of late. The country generally is well furnished with grass and corn.

    * 1.519Bame, a Burgh-Royal, is seated at the mouth of Doverne in the Boine; where the Sheriff hath his Courts. The country about is very fertil, and the Salmon-fishing very advantageous. It shows the ru∣ins of an old Castle. Near to this is the Abbey of Deer, which belonged to the Cistercians, and was founded by William Cumin, Earl of Buchan. At the Boghilt resides the Duke of Gordon. This seat is a∣dorned with excellent gardens, enclosures, and woods of oak, about it.

    [m] MURRAY* 1.520 comprehendeth the shire of El∣gin, and the shire of Nairne. Upon the North, it hath Murray-firth and the water of Nesse, which sepa∣rates it from the shire of Innernesse; to the East it is separated from Bamfshire by the River of Spey; to the South it hath Badenoch; and to the West, part of Lo∣chabyr. 'Tis about 30 miles long, and 20 broad. The shire of Elgin comprehends all that part which lyeth to the East of the River Findorne; the shire of Nairne, what is upon the West side of the said River. They have an air very wholsom, and winters mild. the Low-country bears very much corn, which is soon ripe; but the High-country is fitter for pasture. They have many great woods of Firs and other trees, especially upon the River of Nearne. The River of of Spey watereth this country, famous for the incre∣dible number of Salmon that are taken in it.

    * 1.521Elgin is a Royal-burgh, where are the ruines of an antient Castle, as also of one of the most stately Churches in the Kingdom.

    Nearne* 1.522 also is a Royal-burgh, situate upon the coast of Murray-firth, where the water of Nearne runneth into the sea.

    Not far from Killosse* 1.523 is an Obelisk of one stone, a monument of the fight between King Malcolm, son of Keneth, and Sueno the Dane.

    Within the precincts of Murray our Author includes the Sheriffdom of INNERNESSE,* 1.524 which compre∣hends Lochaber, Badinoch, and the South part of Rosse. To the South it hath the Brae of Marr and Athol; to the West, the Western-sea; to the North, Rosse; and to the East, part of Murray-frith. The length of it from Inver∣lochee to Invernesse, in a streight line, is 50 miles. It has plenty of Iron-Ore; great woods of Firr ten miles long; with some large woods of Oak: and that part called Badenoch has many Deer.

    Invernesse* 1.525 * 1.526 is the head town of this Sheriffdom, and the Sheriffs seat, where he keeps his Court. It is com∣modiously situated upon the South side of the River Nesse, on the very bank of it; which renders it ex∣ceeding convenient for commerce with the neigh∣bouring places. It was formerly the seat of the Kings of Scotland; and has a Castle standing on a pleasant hill, with a fine prospect into the fields and town. Near the Castle, there is lately a Bridge built over the water of Nesse, consisting of seven Arches, all of hewen stone. It hath a harbour for smaller vessels. There are in it two Churches, one for the English, and the other for the Irish. Here is Loughness, 24 miles long, and of a considerable depth, which never freezes; as neither does the water of Nesse.

    Near the town of Innerlochie there is a fort with a garison, upon the bay of Lochyol.

    [n] ROSSE comprehends the Shires of Tayn and Cromartie. The first includes the greater part of Rosse,* 1.527 with the Isles of Skye, Lewis, and Herris; the second, a small part of Rosse, lying upon the South-side of Cro∣martie-Frith. 'Tis in length 50. and in breadth 30. miles. The Straths or Valleys upon the water-sides, are full of wood; particularly upon Charron, the wa∣ter of Braan, and near Alfarig, there are great woods of Firr. And on the hills is great store of game of all sorts.

    Tain, a good trading town, is a Royal Burgh, and gives name to the shire. Its Firth is about 20 miles long, but admitteth not ships. Loughbruin-Bay, which is ten miles long, is famous for the vast number of her∣rings taken in it. Dingwall, another Burgh-Royal, is situate in the utmost part of the Firth; to the North of which lyes the great mountain Weeves.

    Channerie* 1.528 had a large Cathedral Church,† 1.529 a part whereof still remains. At present it shows a stately house of the Earl of Seaforth, who has considerable revenues in this county.

    Cromartie* 1.530 is a Royal Burgh, the Firth whereof is a∣bout 15 miles long, and in many places two miles broad: though the entrance of it be narrow, yet is it very safe and easie. Into this runneth the water of Connel, famous for the Pearls found in it. The Vis∣count of Tarbat, who has his residence at Tarbat, is sheriff and proprietor of that antient estate.

    [o] All that tract of land lying between Portnacour and Dungsby, was of old called CATTEY. So much of it as lyes Eastward from the hill Orde was named Catey-nesse, and afterwards Cathnesse; but so much as lay on this side of Orde was called South-Catley, and Sutherland.

    SUTHERLAND* 1.531 contains the country that pass'd under that name, with Strathnaver, Edernchiles, and Di∣crinesse; having Cathnesse to the East and North-east, the main Ocean to the North, the country of Assint to the West, Rosse to the South, and the German sea to the East and South-east. From West to East it is in length about 55 miles, and in breadth from South to North 22 miles, but taking in Strathnaver, 33. The inhabitants of these parts are much given to hunting, and will endure a great deal of labour and toil. The shire affords white marble, (in some hills in the parish of Creigh) plenty of iron-ore, and some pearls. They have coal, free-stone, lime-stone, and good solate in abundance; 'tis said also that they find some silver; and it is supposed that there is gold in Durinesse. In se∣veral parts of the country, they have much Salmon-fishing, and are also well provided with other fishes.

    Dornoch,* 1.532 the chief Burgh of the shire, is a Burgh-Royal, standing between the rivers of Portnecouter and Unes. Besides the Castle, belonging to the Earl of Sutherland, it has a Cathedral-Church, being the seat of the Bishop of Cathnesse.

    A little East of this town, there is a monument like a Cross, called the Thane or Earl's-Cross;* 1.533 and another beside Eubo, called the King's Cross, where one of the Kings or chief Commanders of the Danes is said to have been slain and buried.

    Dunrobin,* 1.534 (mentioned by our Author) the special residence of the Earl of Sutherland, is seated upon a mote hard by the sea, and is remarkable for its fine gardens.

    In this country, the days are very long in summer, and during that season, they have little or no dark night.

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    * 1.535'Tis said that the river of Shin never freezes.

    * 1.536[p] CATHNESSE (called also the shire of Wike) to the South and South-west is divided from Sutherland by the Ord, and a continued ridge of hills, as far as the hill of Knook-finn. Then along the course of the river of Hollowdail, from the rise to the mouth of it, and the mountains Drumna Hollowdale. The same ri∣ver is the bound between it and Strathnaver. To the East it is washt with the Ocean; to the North it hath Pen-Iland-Frith, which divideth it from Orknay. Its length from South to North is 35 miles; its breadth, about 20. The woods here are but few and small; be∣ing rather Copices of birch. In the forest of Moravins and Berridale, there is great plenty of Red-deer and Roe-bucks. They have good store of cows, sheep, goats, and wild-fowl. At Dennet there is lead; at Old-wike, copper; and iron-ore in several places.

    * 1.537The whole coast, except the bays, is high rocks; so that they have a great number of promontories Sandsidehead, at the West-end of Cathnesse, pointing North to the opening of Pentland-Firth. Holborn-head, and Dinnet-head, both pointing North to the Firth. Duncans-bay-head, which is the North-east point of Cathnesse, where the Firth is but 12 miles over. Near which is the ordinary ferry to Orknay, called Duncan's-bay. Noshead, pointing North-east. Clythe∣ness, pointing East.

    Though Wick be a Royal Burgh,* 1.538 and the head Courts kept there; yet Thurso (only a Burgh of Ba∣rony) is more populous; where also the Judges re∣side. It is a secure place for ships of any burthen to ride at, being defended by Holburn-head.

    In these parts, there are many foundations of an∣tient houses now ruinous; supposed to have formerly belonged to the Picts. Many obelisks also are ere∣cted here and there, and in some places several of them together.

    The Roman Wall in SCOTLAND.

    THe first occasion of building the Roman Wall (which now goes by the name of Graham's dike) was given by Julius Agricola; of whom Tacitus has left us this character, Non a∣lium Ducem opportunitates locorum sapientius elegisse, That never a General used more discretion in the choice of places. And here particularly he made good his claim to that piece of conduct; for that Isthmus, or neck of land, upon which it was built, is not above 16 miles over, betwixt the rivers of Forth and Clyde. So that having fortified that slip of ground with garisons, the Enemies were, as Tacitus has observed, summoti velut in aliam Insulam.

    But here, we must not imagine that Agricola built a wall along this tract; since neither Historians nor In∣scriptions give us any reason to suspect it. Tacitus only observes that this Angustum terrarum spatium Praesidiis firmabatur; and we may be sure, if there had been any thing of a wall in the case, he would not have omit∣ted the mention of it. So that 'tis probable he con∣tented himself with placing garisons at such convenient distances, as that the forces might easily draw toge∣ther upon the first apprehension of danger. Whe∣ther or no some of the Forts that are plac'd upon the wall, were built by him at that time, or by others af∣terwards, is not certain; however, it seems probable that he built these following garisons.

    1. That which our Author calls, from the Water of Caron, (which runs near it) Coria Damniorum. The neighbours thereabouts at this day call it Camelon; not that 'tis to be imagin'd this is the Camulodunum men∣tioned by Tacitus, (which is some hundreds of miles distant from hence) but rather the Camunlodunum, which Ptolemy makes a town of the Brigantes, whom he pla∣ceth sub Ilgovis & Ottadinis ad utraque maria; and sets the town in the 57th Degree of Latitude. And in∣deed, the Gadeni which we placed here, were a tribe of the Brigantes, that possess'd the country betwixt the Irish Sea and the Firth of Forth. Camalodunum like∣wise is thought to import the Palace of the Prince; and it may be gathered from History that this was the Palace of the Picts. But by whomsoever it was built, the remains of the fortification, and the vestigia of the streets, are yet to be seen; and there is a Roman mi∣litary way begins here, and runs South. In antient times, it was wash'd by the sea; which is confirm'd by an anchor discover'd near it within this hundred years. As a farther confirmation of its antiquity, they discover old Vaults, and meet with several Roman Coins about it; one particularly of brass, about the bigness of a Half-crown, with a Shield on one side, and above it a Lion; but the Impression on the other side is not legible. Here it is that Ptolemy places the Legio Sexta Victrix; and it seems to have been their head-quarters. The Duni Pacis, mention'd by our Author, are very near it; and just over against it, on the North side of Carron-water, is the Aedes Termini, the figure whereof, with a distinct description, may be expected in Sir Robert Sibbalds's Scotia Antiqua.

    2. The second seems to have been some six miles distant to the North-west, where the town of Sterling is now. For besides that the narrowness of the river of Forth (which hath now a bridge over it in this place) required a garison, there is upon a rock this Inscription.

    IN EXCV. AGIT. LE. LEG.

    Which sheweth that a Legion kept garison here. 'Tis most probable, that this is the Alauna of Ptolemy.

    3. The third garison (for the out-guard of this, and for securing the tract where the river is but nar∣row) was plac'd about eight miles to the North-east from the second;* 1.539 and is more fully described in the Account of Thule, written by Sir Robert Sibbalds. It bids fairest for Ptolemy's Victoria; which name it might possibly get from the Victory obtained near it, by Agricola, over the Caledonians. Roman Medals have been found at it; and not far from it there runs a Roman military way.

    4. The fourth seems to be that which Bede calls Guidi, and which he placeth about the middle of the wall; call'd at present Kirkintilloch, as antiently Kaer∣pentalloch, and situate upon the tract of the wall. Here are still to be seen the ruines of great fortifications; and near it several Inscriptions have been found, some whereof are now kept at the house of Cadir. 'Tis most probable, that this is the Coria mentioned by Ptolemy.

    5. The fifth was where the town of Paisly now is; which one would imagine from the situation to be the Bremenium of Ptolemy.

    6. The sixth was the most remote to the West, call'd at this day Dumbarton, conveniently situate in a point where the water of Leven runneth into Clyde. But if this convenience were not testimony enough, the Inscriptions, that are found in the neighbourhood, would put it beyond all dispute.

    The placing of these garisons was probably the oc∣casion of building the wall afterwards along this tract. But in building, they took the directest line; which must be the cause why some of the garisons are at a distance from it. It seems also to have been built at different times, and by different men, as the situa∣tion of the ground required for repelling of the ene∣my, and covering the Provincials against their Inva∣sions. Bede tells us, That they made it between the two Friths of the Sea, that where the water did not secure them, there the wall might defend them against the Incursions of the Enemy: From which one may probably infer, that first they began it where the river of Forth is narrow, and so carried it along the neck of land, betwixt the Firth of Clyde and Forth. But afterwards they found it convenient that it should be carried farther East.

    Page [unnumbered]

    The Penvahel or Penueltuin (where Bede says it be∣gun) is call'd Walltoun at this day; where there is an artificial mount dyk'd about. The manner of the wall will be more easily apprehended by this Draught of it, taken from the Papers of Mr. Timo∣thy Pont, (who had exactly traced it) and the obser∣vations of some others, who after him had taken the pains to describe it.

    [illustration] diagram

    • A A A. A ditch of twelve foot wide before the Wall, towards the Enemies Country.
    • B B. A wall of squared and cut stone, two foot broad; probably higher than the wall to cover the Defendants, and to keep the Earth of the wall from falling into the Ditch.
    • C C. The Wall it self, of ten foot thickness; but how high, not known.
    • D D. A paved way close at the foot of the wall, five foot broad.
    • E E. Watch-towers within a call one of another, where Centinels kept watch day and night.
    • F F. The wall of square stone going through the breadth of the Wall, just against the Towers.
    • G G. A Court of guard, to lodge a sufficient number of soldiers against all sudden Alarms.
    • I I. The body of the Rampire, with an outer-wall of cut stone, higher than the Rampire, to cover Soldiers.
    • K. The Void within for the Soldiers Lodgings.

    Besides these, there were along the Wall great and Royal Forts strongly entrench'd (tho' within the wall) able to receive a whole Army together. For the wall being long, and they not knowing where the Enemy would make their attacks; it was neces∣sary that lodgings should be provided against all occa∣sions. In the fixing whereof, 'tis observable that they did not so much look upon high grounds, as places that were well-watered; but where these two con∣curr'd, they were sure to have a Fort there.

    The Forts which remain'd in Mr. Timothy Pont's time (who trac'd them all) were these. One at Langtown, a mile east of Falkirk; one just at the Rouintree-burnhead; one at Wester-Cowdon above He∣len's Chapel; one at the Croy-hill; a very great one upon the top of the Bar-hill (which hath had large Entrenchings, a fresh-spring and a Well within it;) one at Achindevy; one at Kirkintilloch or Kaerpental∣loch; one at East-Calder; one at Hiltoun of Calder; one at Balmudy; one at Simerstone; and over Kilvin river and Carestoun, one at Atermynie; one at Bal∣castle over against Barhill; one at Kaellybe over a∣gainst Cry-hill; one at the Roch-hill over against the Westerwood; a large one at Bankyir, over against Castle Cary; one at Dumbass, &c.

    In the ruins of that at Bankyir, there was found a large Iron-shovel, or some instrument resembling it, so weighty that it could hardly be lifted by any man of this age. At the same fort also were discovered several sepulchres, covered with large rough stones; and at Dun-chroc-chyr by Mony-abroch, there have been large buildings.

    The length of the wall is 36 Scotch miles. Be∣ginning between the Queens-ferry and Abercorn, it goes along west by the Grange and Kineil to Inne∣reving. So on to Falkirk (two miles west of which are the tracks of Camelon;) from whence it goeth directly to the forest of Cumernald (where hath been a great fort call'd Castle-Cary.) Next, it runs to the great Fort at the Bamhill, where have been found se∣veral stones, some with pictures graven upon them, and some with Inscriptions. From thence it goeth to the Peel of Kirkintillo, the greatest Fort of all; and so Westward to Dumbarton, with a great ditch upon the North side of the wall all along. It had also along it many square Fortifications, in form of Roman Camps.

    As to the Inscriptions, our learned Author hath given an account of some of them: amongst those omitted by him, one is said to have upon it these words,

    COHORTIS HISPANORUM TIBICEN HIC JACET.
    Others have been likewise found in these parts, point∣ing out some of the Forces that quartered here. But of these we shall hare occasion to speak at the end of Sir Robert Sibbald's Description of Thule.

    Notes

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