Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

About this Item

Title
Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
Publication
London :: Printed by F. Collins, for A. Swalle ... and A. & J. Churchil ...,
1695.
Rights/Permissions

To the extent possible under law, the Text Creation Partnership has waived all copyright and related or neighboring rights to this keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above, according to the terms of the CC0 1.0 Public Domain Dedication ( http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/). This waiver does not extend to any page images or other supplementary files associated with this work, which may be protected by copyright or other license restrictions. Please go to http://www.textcreationpartnership.org/ for more information.

This text has been selected for inclusion in the EEBO-TCP: Navigations collection, funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities.

Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/B18452.0001.001
Cite this Item
"Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ..." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/B18452.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 18, 2025.

Pages

GADENI or LADENI.

UPon the Ottadini, or Northumberland, bordered the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, (Gadeni) who, by the turning of one letter upside down, are called in some Copies of Ptolemy Ladeni, seated in that Country lying between the mouth of the River Tweed and Edenborough-Frith,* 1.1 which is now cantoned into many petty Coun∣tries. The principal of them are Teifidale, Twedale, Merch, and Lothien, in Latin Lodeneium, under which general name the Writers of the middle age comprised them all. [a]

TEIFIDALE.

TEifidale, that is to say, the Valley or Dale by the Riverd 1.2 Tefy or Teviot, lying next to England, amongst cliffs of craggy hills and rocks, is inhabited by a warlike peo∣ple, who by reason of so frequent encounters between the Scots and English in former ages, are always ve∣ry ready for service and sudden invasions. The first place we meet with amongst these, is Jedburg, a Bo∣rough well frequented, standing near the confluence of the Tefy and Jed, from whence it takes its name; and Mailros,* 1.3 a very ancient Monastery, wherein, in the Church's infancy, were Monks of that antient instituion, that gave themselves to prayer, and with the labour of their hands earn'd their living. And more Eastward, where the Twede and the Tefy joyn in one stream,* 1.4e 1.5 Rosburg, called also Roxburgh, and in antient times Marchidun, from its being seated in the Marches; where stands a Castle, that by its natu∣ral situation, and tow'red fortifications, was in times past exceeding strong. Which being surprized by the English; while King James 2. of Scotland was be∣sieging it, he was untimely slain in the flower of his youth, by a piece of Cannon that casually burst. He was a Prince much missed and lamented by his Sub∣jects. Notwithstanding this, the Castle was surren∣der'd, and being mostly demolished, is now scarce to be seen. But the adjacent Territory (called from it the Sheriffdom of Roxborough* 1.6) hath an hereditary She∣riff of the family of Douglass, who is usually called the Sheriff of Teviotdale. And nowf 1.7 Roxborough, by the favour of King James 6. is also a Barony, in the per∣son of Robert Kerr,* 1.8 of the house of the Kerrs, a very noble and numerous family in this tract; from which are descended the Fernhersts, and others, who being educated in the school of Arms, have render'd them∣selves very illustrious.

Twede* 1.9 aforesaid runs through the middle of a Val∣ley or Dale, that takes its name from it, abounding in sheep, whose wool is very valuable. This is certainly a Noble River; which having its source a∣mongst the hills more inwardly Westward, and run∣ning as it were with a streight Channel by Drimlar-Castle, by Peeblis* 1.10 a Market-Town* 1.11 (which hath for its Sheriff Baron Zester) as alsog 1.12 Selkirk* 1.13† 1.14 hard by (which hath one out of the family of Murray of Fallo-hill;) it receives the little River Lauder, upon which appearsh 1.15 Lauder, together with Thirlestan. Here Sir John Maitland, not long since Chancellor of Scotland, for his singular prudence created by K. James the 6. Baron of Thirlestan,* 1.16 hath a very beautiful seati 1.17. Then being increased by the accession of the River Teviot beneath Roxburgh, it watereth the Sheriffdom of Berwick, which is most of it the Estate of the Humes, wherein the Head of that Family exer∣ciseth now the Jurisdiction of a Sheriff: and then run∣ning under Berwick, the best fortified Town of Bri∣tain, (whereof I have already spoken) with a pro∣digious plenty of Salmon, it emptieth it self into the Sea. [b]

MERCHIA, MERCH, or MERS.

MErch, which is next, and so named be∣cause it is a March-Countrey, lieth wholly upon the German Ocean. Herek 1.18 Hume Castle first presents it self, the ancient possession of the Lords of Home or Hume; who being descended from the Earls of Merch, have spread themselves into a numerous and noble family. Of which, Alexander Hume, who was before Primier Baron of Scotland, and Sheriff of Berwick, was lately advanced by James, King of Great Britain, to the Title of Earl of Hume.* 1.19 Not far off, under this Castle, liethl 1.20 Kelso,* 1.21 formerly famous for a Monastery founded by King David the first among thirteen more, for the propagation of God's glory, but to the great impairing of the Crown Lands.

Thence we have a prospect of Coldingham,* 1.22 called by Bede Coldana, and Coludi urbs, perhaps the Co∣lania* 1.23 of Ptolemy, consecrated many Ages since to professed Nuns, whose Chastity is recorded in an∣cient Writings, for their cutting off (together with

Page [unnumbered]

Ebba their Prioress) their Noses and Lips; chusing to secure their Virginity from the Danes, rather than preserve their Beauty: but they notwithstanding burnt them, together with their Monastery. Hard by is Fastcastle belonging to the Humes, so called from its strength, near the same St. Ebbe's Promontory, who being the Daughter of Edelfrid King of Nor∣thumberland, when her Father was taken Prisoner, seized upon a Boat in the Humber, and passing along the tempestuous Ocean, landed in safety here, be∣came famous for her sanctity, and left her name to the place.

But Merch is much more celebrated in History for its Earls,* 1.24 than places; who were highly commended for their Martial Courage. They were descendants of Gospatrick Earl of Northumberland, who, after his being driven out of his Countrey by William the Conqueror, was entertained by Malcolm Conmer, that is, Great-head, King of Scotland, and honoured by him with Dunbar-Castle and the Earldom of Merch. His Posterity, besides very large possessions in Scot∣land, held (as appears by an old Inquisition) the Ba∣rony of Bengeley in Northumberland, that they should be Inborrow, and Utborrow, between England and Scotland. What the meaning should be of these terms, let others guess; what my conjecture is, I have said already. But in the reign of King James the first, George of Dunbar, the Earl of Merch, by au∣thority of Parliament, upon the account of his Fa∣ther's Rebellion, lost the propriety and possession of the Earldom of Merch, and the Seigniory of Dunbar. [ 1434] And when he proved by good Evidence, that his Father had been pardoned that fault by the Regents of the Kingdom, he was answered, that it was not in the Regents power to pardon an offence against the State; and that it was provided by the Laws, that the Father's transgression should succeed to the Chil∣dren, to the end that being Heirs to their Father's Rashness as well as Estate, they should not at any time, out of a vain opinion of power, plot against their Prince and Country. The Title of Earl of Merch was afterwards amongst other Ho∣nourable Titles conferr'd on Alexander Duke of Albany. And in our memory, this title of ho∣nour was reviv'd in Robert the 3. Brother of Matthew Earl of Lenox, who being of Bishop of Cathness made Earl of Lenox, soon after resigned up that Title to his Nephew created Duke of Lenox, and re∣ceived of the King, by way of recompence, the name and stile of Earl of Merch [c].

LAƲDEN, or LOTHIEN.

LOTHIEN, also called Lauden,* 1.25 and anciently from the Picts, Pictland, shoots out along from Merch as far as the Scottish Sea, or the Frith, having many hills, and little woods; but for its excellent Corn-lands, and civility, is com∣mended above any County in Scotland. About the Year of our Lord 873. Edgar King of England (between whom and Keneth the third, King of Scotland, there was a strict alliance against the Danes the Common Enemy) resigned up his right in this Lothian unto him, as Matthew Florilegus asserts; and to tie his heart the closer to him, He bestowed upon him moreover many Lodges in the way, wherein both he and his Successors, in their coming to the Kings of England, and return homewards, might be entertained, which till K. Henry the second's time remained in the hands of the King's of Scotland. In this Lothian, the first place that presents it self upon the Sea Shore is Dunbar,* 1.26 a Castle in ancient times very strongly for∣tify'd (the seat of the Earls of Merch before-men∣tioned, thence commonly called Earls of Dunbar* 1.27) often taken by the English, and recovered by the Scots. But in the Year 1567 it was demolisht by order of the States, to prevent its being a retreat for Rebels. But King James in the year 1515. conferr'd the Title and Honour of Earl of Dunbar, upon Sir Geo. Hume, for his approved Loyalty; whom he had created before Baron Hume of Berwick,* 1.28 to him, his Heirs, and Assignsm 1.29. Hard by, the little River Tine, after a short course, falleth into the Sea; near the source whereof stands Zeister,* 1.30 which hath its Baron of the Family of the Hays Earls of Arroll, who is like∣wise hereditary Sheriff of the little Territory of Twe∣dale, or Peblis. Upon the same rivulet some few miles higher, in a large plain, lies Hadington or Hadina, fortify'd by the English with a deep and large ditch, and a four square turf-wall without, with four bull∣warks at the Corners, and as many more upon the Inner wall; and as valiantly defended by Sir George Wilford an Englishman against Monsieur Dessie, who fiercely attaqu'd it with 10000 French and Germans; till the Plague growing hot and lessening the garison, Henry Earl of Rutland came with a great Army and rais'd the siege, and having levell'd the Works, con∣ducted the English home. And now of late K. James 6. hath, for his loyalty and valour, elected into the Nobility of Scotland Sir John Ramsey, (whose RIGHT HAND was the DEFENDER OF THE PRINCE AND COUNTRY in that horrid Conspiracy of the Gowries) under the title and honour of Viscount Hadington* 1.31n 1.32. Of this Hadington, J. Johnston hath these Verses;

Planities praetensa jacet prope flumina Tinae, Fluminis arguti clauditur ista sinu. Vulcani & Martis quae passa incendia, fati Ingemit alterno vulnere fracta vices. Nunc tandem sapit icta. Dei praecepta secuta Praesidio gaudet jam potiore Poli. Near Tine's fair stream a spatious plain is shown, Tine's circling arms embrace the hapless town: Where Mars and fiery Vulcan reign'd by turns With fatal rage, whose dire effects she mourns. By sad experience now at last grown wise, She slights their fury and their power defies. Contemns the dangers that before she fear'd, And rests secure when mighty heaven's her guard.

A little way from Hadington stands Athelstanford,* 1.33 so named from Athelstan, a Commander of the Eng∣lish, slain there with his men, about the year 815; but that this was Athelstan that Warlike King of the West-Saxons, must be utterly deny'd, if we have any respect to time, or [the manner of] his Death.

Above the Mouth of this Tine, upon the doubling of the shore, stands Tantallon Castle; from whence Archibald Douglas [Earl] of Angus, was very trouble∣some to James 5. King of Scotland. Here, by the winding of the shores on both sides, room is made for a very Noble Arm of the Sea, well furnished with Isllands; and by the influx of many rivers and the Sea-tides, dilated to a mighty breadth. Ptolemy calls it Boderia, Tacitus Bodotria,* 1.34 from its depth, as I con∣jecture; the Scots the Forth and Frith; we Eden∣borough-Frith; others Mare Fresicum, and Mare Scoticum, and the Eulogium Morwiridh. Upon this, after you are past Tantallon,* 1.35 are seated, first North-Berwick, an∣tiently famous for a House of Religious Virgins; and then Drylton,* 1.36 which formerly belong'd to the eminent family of the Haliburtons, and now by the favour of K. James 6. gives the Title of Baron to Sir Tho. Eres∣kin Captain of his Guards; as Felton* 1.37 hard by gives the Honourable Title of Viscount to the same person; who was the first that had the stile and dignity of a Viscount in Scotland. Over against them, in the sea,

Page 897-898

near the shore, lies the Bass,* 1.38 an Island which rises up, as it were in one continued craggy rock, on every side inaccessible, yet it has a Fort, a fountain, and pasture-grounds; but is so hollow'd and undermined by the waves, that it is almost wrought through. What prodigious flights of sea-fowl, especially of those Geese they call Scouts* 1.39 and Soland-Geese, at certain times flock hither,* 1.40 (for by report, their number is so great as in a clear day to darken the Sun;) what multitudes of Fishes they bring (so as that 100 Soldiers in Garison here, liv'd upon no other provision but the fresh fish brought hither by them, as they give out;) what a quantity of sticks they convey for the building of their nests, (so that by their means the inhabitants are a∣bundantly provided with firing) what vast profit al∣so their feathers and oyl amount to: are things so in∣credible, that no one scarcely would believe it, but he that had seen it.

* 1.41Then, as the shore draws back, Seton appears, which seems to take its name from its situation upon the Sea, and to have given one to the Right Honourable House of the Setons, descended of an English Family and a Daughter of King Robert Bruce; of which theo 1.42 Mar∣quiss of Huntley, Robert Earl of Wintoun,* 1.43 Alexander Earl of Dunfermling, all advanced to honours by King James 6. are Branches. [d]

After this, the River Esk hath its influx into the Frith, having run by Borthwic,* 1.44 (which hath its Ba∣rons so sirnamed, of Hungarian extraction) by Nw∣bottle,* 1.45 that is, the new building, formerly a little Mo∣nastery, now a Barony, in the person of Sir Mark Ker; by Dalkeith,* 1.46 lately a pleasant seat of the Earls of Morton; and Musselborough,* 1.47 below which, upon Ed∣ward Seymour Duke of Somerset's entring Scotland with a * compleat Army,* 1.48 to challenge the performance of Articles for the marrying Mary Queen of Scotland to Edward 6. King of England, there happened a most dismal day to the youth of the noble Families in Scotland, who there fell in the battle. Here I must not pass by in silence this Inscription, which J-Napier, a learned person, in his Commentaries on the Apo∣calyps, informs us was here dug up; and which the eminently ingenious Sir Peter Young Knight, King James the 6th's Tutor, hath thus more truly de∣scribed.

APOLLINI
GRANNO
Q. LVSIVS
SABINIA
NVS
PROC.
AVG.
* 1.49 V. S. S. L V. M.

Who this Apollo Grannus was, and whence he had this denomination, no one Antiquary, to the best of my knowledge, has ever yet told us. But if I, that am of the lowest form, may give my sentiments, I should say that Apollo Grannus, amongst the Romans, was the same as the Grecians 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, having long locks. For Isidore calleth the long hair of the Goths Granni. But this may be lookt upon as fo∣reign to my business.

Something lower, near the Scottish Frith, stands Edenborough,* 1.50 called by the Irish-Scots Dun-Eaden, that is, Eaden Town, which without doubt is the same that Ptolemy calls 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Castrum Alatum, the winged Castle; for Edenborough signifies certainly the same as Winged Castle, Adain in the Bri∣tish denoting a Wing, and Edenborough (from a word compounded of the British and Saxon Tongue) is nothing else but the Winged Borough. From Wings therefore we are to derive its name; which if you think good, may be done, either from those Squa∣drons of horse which are called Wings, or else from those Wings which the Greek Architects call Pteromata, that is (as Vitruvius tells us) two walls, so rising up in height, that they bear a resemblance of Wings. For want of these, a certain City of Cyprus was antiently (as we read in the Geographers) called Aptera, that is, Wingless. But if any man hath a mind to believe it took its name from Ebrauk a Britain, or from Heth a Pict, he may for me; I shall not be against it. This City, in regard of its more eminent situation, the goodness of the air, and fertility of the soil, many of the Nobilities lofty Seats lying all round it, its being water'd with excellent Springs, and reaching from East to West a mile in length, and half as much in breadth; is justly counted the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom: strongly walled, adorned with publick and private buildings, well peopled and frequented for the advantage of the Sea, which the neighbouring Port at Leith affords. And as it is honoured with the King's residence, so is it the sacred repository of the Laws, and chief tribunal of Justice. For the high Court of Parliament is generally held here for the en∣acting or repealing of Laws; as also the Session, and the Courts of the King's Justice, and of the Commis∣sariat, (whereof I have already spoken) are here set∣tled. On the East side, joyning to Holy-Rood-Mona∣stery, stands the Palace Royal, built by King David the first; over which, within a Park stored with game, hangs a double-topt mountain, called Arthur's Chair, from Arthur the Britain. On the West side there mounts up a rock to a mighty height, steep and in∣accessible on all sides but that which looks towards the City; upon which a Castle stands, so strongly fortified with a number of Towers, that it is look'd upon as impregnable. This the Britains called Castle Myned Agned, the Scots the Maidens Castle, and the Virgins Castle, because the Princesses of the Blood-Royal of the Picts were here kept; and the same may really be lookt upon as the Castrum Alatum, or Winged Castle abovementioned.

How Edenborough, by the vicissitudes of war, has been subject sometimes to the Scots, sometimes to the Saxons, who inhabited this Eastern part of Scotland, until it became wholly under the Scots Dominion in the year of our Lord 960. when the English Empire, under the convulsions of the Danish Wars, lay as it were expiring. How likewise (as it is in an old Book Of the Division of Scotland, in the Library of the Right Honourable my Lord Burleigh, late High-Treasurer of England) In the Reign of Indulph, Eden Town was* 1.51 quitted, and abandonned to the Scots to this present day; and what different turns of fortune it felt afterwards: the Historians relate, from whom you are to be infor∣med. † In the mean time you may read,* 1.52 if you please, the ingenious Johnston's Verses in praise of Edenborough.

Monte sub acclivi Zephyri procurrit in auras, Hinc Arx celsa, illinc Regia clara nitet. Inter utram{que} patet sublimibus ardua tectis Urbs armis, animis clara, frequens{que} viris. Nobile Scotorum caput, & pars maxima regni, Paenè etiam gentis integra Regna suae. Rarae artes & opes, quod mens optaverit, aut hic Invenias, aut non Scotia tota dabit. Compositum hic populum videas, sanctum{que} senatum, Sancta{que} cum puro lumine jura Dei. An quisquam Arctoi extremo in limite mundi, Aut haec aut paria his cernere posse putet? Dic, Hospes, postquam externas lustraveris urbes, Haec cernens, oculis credis an ipse tuis? Beneath a Western hill's delightful brow, The Castle hence, and hence the Court we view. The stately town presents it self between, Renown'd for arms, for courage, and for men. The kingdom's noblest part, the lofty head, Or the whole kingdom of the Scottish breed. Wealth, arts, and all that anxious minds desire, Or not in Scotland, or you meet with here. The people sober, grave the Senate show, The worship pure, the faith divinely true. In the last borders of the Northern coast What rival land an equal sight can boast?
These glories, Trav'ler, when at last you see, Say if you don't mistrust your wondring eye, And think it transport all and extasy!

Page 899-900

A mile from hence lieth Leith,* 1.53 an excellent Ha∣ven upon the River Leith, which when Monsieur Dessie had fortified with works to secure Edenborough, by the conflux of people thither, from a mean Vil∣lagep 1.54 it grew to a large Town. Again, when the French King Francis 2. had married Queen Mary of Scotland, the French (who then made themselves sure of Scotland, and began now to gape after Eng∣land) in the year 1560, strengthned it with more fortifications. But Q. Elizabeth of England, upon the solicitation of the Scotch Nobility of the Puritan party, effected by her wisdom and authority, that both they retuned into France, and these their for∣tifications were levell'd with the ground; and Scot∣land ever since hath had little cause to fear the French. [e.]

In the mid'st of this Frith, where it begins by de∣grees to contract it self, there stood (as Bede noteth) the City Caer-Guidi,* 1.55 which seems now to be Inch-Keith-Island. Whether this be the Victoria mentioned by Ptolemy, I will not now dispute, though a man might be easily induced to believe, that the Romans turn'd this Guith into Victoria, as our Isle Guith or Wight, into Victesis and Vecta. Certainly, since both these are broken from the shore, there is the same rea∣son for the name in both languages. For Ninius in∣forms us, that Guith in the British Tongue signifies a breaking off or separation. Upon the same Frith, more inwardly, lies Abercorne, a famous Monastery in Bede's time; which now, by the favour of King James 6. gives the Title of Earl to James Hamilton.* 1.56 Just by stands Blackness Castle;* 1.57 and beneath that southward, the ancient City of Lindum, which Ptolemy takes notice of, by the learned call'd yet Linlithquo,* 1.58 but commonly Lithquo, adorn'd with a fine House of the Kings, a noble Church, and a Lake plentifully stock'd with Fish; from which Lake it seems to derive its name; for Lin, as I hinted be∣fore, in British sounds as much as Lake.* 1.59 It had for∣merly an Hereditary Sheriff of the House of Ha∣milton of Peyle; but its first Earl, in our memory, was Alexander Levingston, advanc'd by K. James 6. from the dignity of a Baron (which his Ancestors had long been honour'd with) to that of an Earl; as a little after Mark Ker, Baron of Newbottle, was to the title of Earl of q Lothian.* 1.60 [f].* 1.61

Additions to the GADENI.

[a]. WHether the People inhabiting those four Counties mentioned by our Author, were call'd Gadeni and Ladeni, is a point not so uni∣versally agreed upon. Indeed, they seem to be no other than those call'd by Mr. Camden according to different Copies, Ottadini, Ottadeni, and Ottalini; and by that Learned Gentleman Drummond of Haw∣thernden, Scottedeni, upon a supposition that the ini∣tial letters Sc. were probably either quite gone, or so obscur'd as not to be legible; by which means the Transcribers might be drawn into an error. How∣ever, that they are to be carried farther Northward than Northumberland (to which Mr. Camden has confin'd them,) is plain from Ptolemie's fixing that Curia (the place remarkable amongst them) in the 59th degree of latitude. And in a village in Mid-Lothian call'd Cutrie, there seem to be plain remains of the old Curia; as there are of the Ottadeni, Scot∣tedeni, &c. in Caer Eden, now call'd Carriden, in West-Lothian, where was found a Medal of Titus Vespasian in gold, with some Roman Urns, and a Stone with the Head of an Eagle engraven upon it. Dun-Eden also, the ancient name of Edenburgh, seems to point out to us that ancient People, and to prove that their bounds extended as far as the water of Eden, calld yet by some Eden-water. About the mouth where∣of, at a place called Inner-Even, are yet to be seen some remains of ancient Buildings.

[b]. The Shire of TEVIOTDALE,* 1.62 compre∣hending under it Lidesdale, Eusdale, and Eskdale, is in length from Reddinburn on the east to Anandale on the west, about 30 miles, and the breadth from the border to the blue Cairn in Lawdermoor, about 14 or 15. It is a good soil, extraordinary well mixt with Grass and Corn, and water'd with several rivu∣lets that run into Tiot and Tweed. The Valley-grounds abound with Corn, short of few Shires in Scotland, for the goodness of the grain; so that great quanti∣ties of it are frequently transported into England.

Free-stone and Lime they have in great abundance. The high grounds are furnish'd with excellent grass, and produce great store of cattel of all kinds, and of the best broods in Scotland, both for largeness and goodness.

Nor does this County want it's remains of Roman Antiquity: for here are some vestigia of their encampments, and a military way runs from Hownam to Tweed call'd the Roman Causey, and by the vulgar the Rugged Causey.

The Mountains* 1.63 most eminent in it are Cokraw, from which there runs a tract of hills westward, di∣viding Scotland from England; which are only pas∣sable at some places. There is another tract of hills going from Harewell, which run along to Craucross, being 12 miles; and in the body of the Shire, are Rueburgh-Law, Mynto-hill, and Hadinton-hills.

They have the Regalities* 1.64 of Jedburgh-forest belong∣ing to the Marquiss of Douglas; the Regality of Hawick belonging to Bacleugh, and the Regality of Melross in the person of the Earl of Hadington.

Several ancient Families of Gentlemen inhabit this County, and those of very considerable Estates. The Sherifdom (for 'tis governed by a Sheriff) is in the Family of Douglas, Sir William Douglas of Kevers being hereditary Sheriff.

In this Shire they have 3 Presbyteries,* 1.65 Jedburgh, Kelso, and Melross.

Within this compass our Author likewise includes the Shire of Peebles* 1.66 or Tweedale, so call'd from the river Tweed, which rising at a place called Tweed's cross, runs east the whole length of the Shire, and for the most part with a swift stream. 'Tis bounded on the east with Etrick forest; on the south with part of the Forest, St. Mary Lough, and Anandale; on the west with the overward of Clidesdale; and on the north with part of Caldermoor, the head of North Esk and Mid-Lothian. In length it is 26 miles, and where broadest does not exceed 16. In which com∣pass are 17 Parish Churches, that make up a Pres∣bytery, call'd The Presbytery of Peebles.

The Countrey is generally swell'd with hills, many of which are green and grassy, with pleasant and fertil valleys between, well watered and adorned with Gentlemen's houses. Their grain is generally oats and barley; and as for planting, they have little of it, except about the houses of the Gentry.

The Head Burgh of the Shire is Peebles,* 1.67 a Burgh Royal, seated in a pleasant plain on the side of the river, with a stately bridge of five arches over the Tweed, and a fine Church.

As to Antiquity; the place called Randall's-trenches* 1.68 seems to have been a Roman Camp; and there is a Causey leads from it, for half a mile together to the town of Lyne.

Next to Peebles our Author barely mentions Selkirk,* 1.69 which yet is a Sherifdom, called otherwise The She∣rifdom of Etrick forest, because formerly it was wholly covered with woods, which were well furnished with Harts, Hinds, and Fallow Deer, but now they are in a great measure destroyed. On the north 'tis bounded partly by Tweedale, and partly by the Rega∣lity of Stow in Mid-Lothian; on the east and south by Teviot-dale; and on the west partly by Teviotdale, and

Page 901-902

partly by Annandale. The body of the Shire is very near Quadrangular, and the Diameter every way a∣bout 16 miles. The Inhabitants have generally strong bodies, being sober and frugal in their diet; and living mostly by feeding of Cattle: whereby they do not only support themselves, but maintain a good Trade in England with their Wooll, Sheep, Cows, &c.

[c] As the MERS* 1.70 has its present name from being the boundary or march between England and Scot∣land; so was it also call'd Berwickshire, because the town of Berwick was formerly the chief burrough thereof; which was afterwards given away by King James the third upon capitulation, for redemption of Alexander Duke of Albany. But (if we may believe some Scotch Authors) one more ancient than either of these, was Ordolucia, and that of the Inhabitants Ordolutae, a branch of the Scottedeni.

It is the south-east Shire of all Scotland, bordering upon the sea; and divided from Berwick by the Bound-rod; from Northumberland by the river Tweed, running between them for about eight miles. This river is one of the 3 that rise out of the same tract of hills; Clide runs west towards Dumbarton; Anand, south towards Solway-sands; and this, east towards Ber∣wick. It is of a swift couse, environ'd with hills, running through Tweedale-forest and Teviotdale before it go into the Ocean. It's current is above 50 miles: in all which compass it hath only two bridges; one at Peebles of 5 arches, and another at Berwick of 15. It had one at Melross; the pillars whereof are yet standing; and another is intended at Kelso.

The length of this County is 20 miles from Lam∣berton to Ridpeth on the south-side, and from Cock∣burns-path to Seeinghill-kirk on the north-side. But take the length anglewise, 'tis from Lamberton to Lau∣clugh, direct east and west, 24 miles. It's breadth is about 14 miles, whether you take it on the west-end, south-end, or middle of the Shire.

It is divided into three parts, Mers,* 1.71 Lammermoor, and Lauderdale. The Mers is a pleasant low ground, ly∣ing open to the influence of the sun, and guarded from storms by Lammermoor. So that the soil is fertil, and affords great plenty of oats, barley, wheat, pease, &c. with abundance of hay. Lammermoor* 1.72 is a great tract of hills on the north-side of the Shire, above 16 miles in length, and 6 at least in breadth; abounding with moss and moor. The west end of them, for four miles together, belongs to Lauderdale; the rest of it eastward is almost equally parted between East-Lothian and Mers. The peculiar use of this tract, is pasturage in the summer time, and the game it af∣fords by the abundance of Partridge, Moor-fowl, Plover, &c. But the product of these parts is not reckoned so good as of others, being generally sold at a lower rate. Lauderdale* 1.73 is a tract of ground ly∣ing on each side of the water of Leider, abounding with pleasant haughs, green hills, and some woods; well stor'd also with corn and pasturage.

The Judicatories* 1.74 in this Shire are; 1. The Sherif-Court, which sits at the town of Duns. 2. The Com∣missariot, which sits at Lawder. 3. The Regality of Thirlstan, belonging to the Earl of Lauderdale. 4. The Regality of Preston, and Forest of Dye, belonging to the Marquiss of Douglas. 5. The Lordship of Coldingham and Stewartry of March, belonging to the Earl of Hume; who is Sheriff, and has his residence at Hirsell.

The more remarkable places, besides those men∣tioned by our Author, are, Duns,* 1.75 a burgh of Barony, standing upon a rising ground in the midst of the Shire. Every Wednesday it has a great market of Sheep, Horses, and Cows; and is famous for being reputed the birth-place of Joannes Duns Scotus. A Gentle∣man, a Laird of that name, is still there. Eymouth,* 1.76 the only port in the Shire for shipping; which was forti∣fied by the French in Queen Mary's minority. Er∣silton* 1.77 or Earlstown, famous for the birth of Thomas Ler∣mouth, called Thomas the Rymer. Hume, for the Castle, now demolish'd. Caldstream,* 1.78 a market town lying close upon Tweed. Greenlaw,* 1.79 a burgh of Barony, with a weekly market. Fouldon, a large town. Rosse,* 1.80 famous for it's harbour and plenty of fish. Aton, situate upon the water of Ey. White-coat,* 1.81 where is a harbour for herring-fishing.

About Bastenrig on the east-hand, and the Moristons and Mellerstoun downs on the west, they frequently take the Dotterel,* 1.82 a rare Fowl, towards the latter end of April and beginning of May.

[d] Next the Mers, along the south of the Firth or Forth, lies the country call'd LOTHIAN; having Mers to the east; part of Lammermoor, and part of Lauderdale, with the Forest and Tweedale, to the south; part of Clidsdale and Stirlingshire to the west, and to the north the Firth or Forth. It is in length from Cockburns-path in the east, to the Shire of Clids∣dale, about 57 miles; and where 'tis broadest, be∣tween 16 and 17 miles over. To what our Author has said in commendation of it, may be added it's number of Towns, with seats of the Nobility and Gentry, wherein it goes much beyond the rest of Scotland. 'Tis divided into 3 distinct Tracts, call'd East-Lothian, Mid-Lothian, and West-Lothian.

East-Lothian* 1.83 or the Constabulary or Shire of Ha∣dington, (so called from Hadington one of the three burghs-Royal, and seat of the Courts) is in length about 22, and in breadth about 12 miles, bounded by the Firth on the north and east, by a tract of hills called Lammermoor on the south, and by Mid-Lothian on the West. It abounds with corn of all sorts, has good store of grass, with some considerable woods, as Prestmennan, Colston, Humbie, and Ormestan; and abundance of Coal and Lime-stone. It has good store of Sheep, especially towards the hills of Lammermoor, and by west Lammerlaw: and from the west part to the sea all along to the east, it abounds with Conies. It hath many Salt-pans, wherein much white Salt is made; and at New-Milns there is a considerable manu∣factory of broad-cloath. The sea-coast is accommo∣dated with many convenient harbours, and has the advantage of several Fish-towns; particularly, at Dumbar, and on the coast thereabout, every year after Lammas there is a Herring-fishing, where they take great numbers, not only to serve the Inhabitants, but also for exportation.

The first considerable place we meet with in this tract is Dunglas,* 1.84 a pleasant seat on the sea-coast, which formerly belonged to the Earl of Hume, but has now another owner. In the time of the late Wars, a garison was kept there by the Earl of Ha∣dington, for the Army; who (with 30 Knights and Gentlemen of the name of Hamilton, besides several other considerable persons) perished in the ruines of this house. For it was designedly blown up in the year 1640 by Nathaniel Paris an Englishman, one of his own servants, while the Earl was reading a Letter in the Court, which he had then received from the Army, with all the Gentlemen about him. Only four of the whole Company escaped, who by the force of the powder were thrown to a great distance from the house. 'Tis now repaired, and adorned by Sir John Hall, the present possessor, with curious Gardens, spacious Courts, and a large and pleasant Avenue. They have here a Collegiate Church, a goodly large building and vaulted; but 'tis now rui∣nous. Along the Coast, to Dunbar, is a pleasant Country, the most fruitful in the Kingdom, espe∣cially in Wheat and Barley.

South-east of Dumbar (a Burgh-royal in this Shire) is Dunhill,* 1.85 memorable for the victory obtained, Sept. 30. 1650. over the Scotch-Army under Lesly, by a handful of men (and those too but sickly) under the command of Cromwell. Which miscarriage (if some ingenuous persons, who were in the Action may be believed) was rather owing to the treachery of some great men, than any conduct or bravery of the Enemies.

The most considerable Houses,* 1.86 are Brocksmouth, the chief residence of the Earl of Roxburgh. Tining∣ham, the residence of the Earl of Hadington; near which there is a quarry of Marble. Seaton and Win∣ton, the houses of the Earl of Winton.

The Templars, and after them the Knights of Rhodes and Malta, had a residence in this Shire at St. Ger∣mains. It has at present two Presbyteries, of Ha∣dington and Dunbar.

Page 903-904

[e] The Sheriffdom of Edenburgh, commonly cal∣led Mid-Lothian,* 1.87 is the principal Shire of the King∣dom; and is in length 20 or 21 miles; the breadth of it is different according to the several parts, in some 16 or 17 miles, in others not above 5 or 6. On the south it is bounded with the Sheriffdom of Hadington for 13 miles together; on the east with the Baillery of Lauderdale for about four; on the south with the Sheriffdom of Twedale for 13 miles; on the south-west with the Sheriffdom of Lanerick for 6 or 7 miles, and on the west for two miles by the said Sheriffdom; on the north-west with the Sheriff∣dom of Linlithgow for 14 miles; and on the north with the Firth or Forth for the space of 8 miles.

This tract is abundantly furnished with all necessa∣ries; producing a great deal of corn of all sorts, and affording good pasture for cattle. It has very much coal and lime-stone, as also a sort of soft black marble; and some few miles from Edenburgh, near the water of Leith, they have a Copper-mine.

Edenburgh,* 1.88 is not only the most considerable place in those parts, but the chief City of the King∣dom of Scotland. The Romans could not well have made choice of a better place for a Fortification; for the rock on which the present Castle is situated, is inaccessible on all sides, except the East.

The first building of a Fort here, seems to have given Rise to the town, and to have encouraged the neighbours to fix under the protection of it. So that the houses and inhabitants by little and little increas∣ing, have brought it down to the very foot of the ascent toward the east, and made it an entire Scotch mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. The ascent upon which the City stands, has on the north-side a pool call'd the North-Loch, and was formerly guarded by another on the south, call'd the South-Loch, as appears from the leases of some houses of S. Ninian's Row that are let with the privilege of a boat annext. But this is drain'd many years ago; and upon the banks of it are built two several tracts of houses. The City has six Gates, the principal whereof, to the East, was magnificently rebuilt in the year 1616, and adorned with Towers on both sides. Two streets run along the whole length of the town. The High-street from the Castle to the Abby (said to be the broadest in Europe) is of late built of hewen stone; since by an Act of the Town-Council, they have been prohibited to build any more of Timber either in the City or Suburbs, upon account of the many Fires which have happened.

And as the private Buildings,* 1.89 so also the publick do very much exceed those in other parts of that King∣dom. In the middle of the City is St. Giles's Church,* 1.90 a Cathedral, built of hewn stone, and adorned with stone-pillars and vaultings. 'Tis so large as to be di∣vided into 3 Churches, each whereof has its Parish. Besides this,* 1.91 they have the South-Church, in the Church-yard whereof, amongst many other monu∣ments, is that of Sir George Mackenzy. The Trone-Church, built in 1641. The Collegiate Church of the Sacred Trinity, built by Mary of Gueldres, King James the Second's Queen. The Lady Yester's Church, built and endowed by one of the Lady Yesters: and another very beautiful one, built within these 5 years. To these we must add two Chapels, St. Mag∣dalens and St. Mary's, with another at the foot of the Canon-gate.

Next to these are their Hospitals,* 1.92 St. Thomas's and Heriot's Hospital. In the first, the poorer sort of In∣habitants are maintained very handsomly, and have their own proper Chaplain. The second (so called from the founder George Heriot, Jeweller to James 6.) is a stately Fabrick like a Palace. In the inner Fron∣tispiece is the Statue of the Founder erected; and round about the houses are pleasant gardens, adorned with large Walks and Greens. 'Tis a Nursery for boys, wherein the children of the poorer Citizens have their education, till they be fit for the publick Schools and Colleges.

* 1.93Near the Cathedral-Chuch, is the Parliament-house, standing in a great Court, which on one side is enclosed with the upper and lower Exchange, and with a tract of very stately buildings. Here is one of the highest houses perhaps in the world, mounting seven stories above the Parliament-Court, and being built upon the descent of a hill, the back-part is as far below it; so that from the bottom to the top, one stair-case ascends 14 stories high. In the middle of the Court, is the Statue of King Charles II. in brass, erected upon a stately Pedestal at the charge of the City.

On the South-side is the College of King James the sixth, founded in the year 1580, and endowed with all the Privileges of an University. The precincts are very large, and the whole is divided into 3 Courts, adorned on all sides with excellent buildings, two lower, and one higher which is as large as both the other. They have their publick Schools, and a Common-hall wherein Divinity, Hebrew, and Mathematicks are taught. Their Library is well stor'd with printed books, and and has some Manuscripts: under that is the King's Printing-house. The Students have very good ac∣commodation, and the Professors neat and handsom Lodgings, with very good Gardens for their recreation.

The Royal-Palace* 1.94 (whereof his Grace the Duke of Hamilton is hereditary Keeper) hath four Courts. The Outer-Court, which is as big as all the rest, has four principal Entries. 'Tis on all hands bounded with lovely Gardens: on the south, lies the King's Park, which hath great variety of medicinal plants. The Entry of the Palace is adorned with great pil∣lars of hewn stone, and a Cùpilo in fashion of a Crown, above it. The forepart is terminated by four high towers, two towards the north erected by King James V. and the rest by King Charles II. The Inner-Court has Piazza's round it all of hewn stone. But above all, the Long-Gallery is most re∣markable, being adorned with the pictures of all the Kings of Scotland from Fergus I.

About 20 years ago,* 1.95 the Magistrates were at great expence to bring one of the best Springs of Scotland into the City; which they did by leaden Pipes from a Hill at above 3 miles distance. And to make it more convenient, they have erected several stately Fountains in the middle of the High-street to serve the town with water.

There is here also a College of Justice, which hath its Dean of faculty. They try their Intrants [or Candidates] and have a Bibliotheque well furnished with Books of Law and History.

King Charles the second did likewise erect at Edin∣burg a College of Physicians, giving them by a Pa∣tent under the Great Seal an ample Jurisdiction within this City and the Liberties thereof, appointing the Judicatures to concur to the execution of their De∣creets; by a latter Grant they have the faculty of professing Physick. They have their conferences once a month for the improvement of Medicine, and have begun to erect a Library. Near to this City is Leith, a convenient harbour for Ships.

As this Country has at present several considerable Houses (whereof Hawthornden is famous for its caves hewen out of the rock, and Roslin for the* 1.96 stately Chapel;) so can it produce some remains of Antiquity. For near the Town of Cramond, (at which Salmon and several other Fish are taken) many stones have been dug up with Roman Inscriptions. Also in the grounds of Inglistown, belonging to Hugh Wallace, were found not long ago two stones, parts of a Pillar; upon one of which is a Lawrel-Crown, upon the other (the longest of the two) there is on each side, the Roman Securis. The name of the Emperor is broken off; but by the progress of the Roman Arms described by Taci∣tus, it appears to have been set up in the time of Julius Agricola's government. And since only the Empe∣ror's name is struck off, and it appears that by order of the Senate the Statues and Inscriptions of Domitian were defaced; one may probably conclude that 'twas erected in honour of that Emperor. What remains of it, is this:

AVG. COS. IV.
GERMANICVS
PONTIFEX. MAX.

These Stones are to be seen in the Garden at Edin∣burgh, belonging to Sir Robert Sibbalds, Doctor of Physick.

Page 905-906

Next the Antiquities,* 1.97 that noted spring two miles south of Edinburgh, deserves our notice. The name of it is St. Catharine's-Well, though 'tis commonly call'd The Oily Well, because it sends up along with the wa∣ter an Oil or Balsom which swims upon it. 'Tis found by experience to be exceeding good not only for the cure of Scabs, but likewise of any pains proceeding from cold, as also for strengthening and putting life into any decaying part. It has two Presbyteries, Edin∣burg and Dalkeith.

[f] The Shire of LINLITHGOW, call'd West-Lothian,* 1.98 takes it's name from Linlithgow, the head burgh, and has on the north the Forth, is divided from Mid-Lothian toawrds the south and east by the waters of Almond and Breichwater: to the north-west it meet∣eth with part of Stirlingshire, and to the west with part of Clidisdale. 'Tis in length 14 miles, and in breadth about nine. It affords great plenty of Coal, Lime-stone, and of White Salt; and in the reign of King James 6. a Silver Mine was found in it, out of which they got a great deal of Silver.

The Town of Linlithgow,* 1.99 mentioned by our Au∣thor,* 1.100 is a Royal-burgh, well built, and is accommo∣dated with Fountains that furnish water to the Inhabi∣tants, with a stately Town-house for the meeting of the Gentry and Citizens, and with a harbour at Black∣ness. But it's greatest ornament is the King's house, which stands upon a rising ground that runs almost into the middle of the Loch, and looks like an Am∣phitheater; having Terras-walks (as it were) and a descent from them, but upon the top where the Castle stands, it is a plain. The Court has apartments like towers, upon the four corners; and in the midst of it a stately fountain adorned with several curious statues, the water whereof rises to a good height. The Levingstons, Earls of this place, are hereditary Keepers of it; as they are also hereditary Bailifs of the King's Bailifry, and hereditary Constables of the King's Castle of Blackness. Near the Palace, upon a level with it, stands the Church, a curious work of fine stone.

Nor ought we to omit Borrostoness,* 1.101 north from hence upon the sea-coast, erected into a burgh of Regality by his Grace the Duke of Hamilton; who hath in the neighbourhood his castle of Kineil, of late adorned with large Parks and stately Avenues. Torphichen,* 1.102 to the south of Linlithgow, deserves also our notice, as being a burgh of Regality, and once the residence of the Knights of Malta; but now giveth the title of Lord to the chief of the name of Sandilands. And Bathgate,* 1.103 the parish whereof is erected into a Sherifdom by it self.

And as the Towns, so also some Houses of note require our mention. Nidry-Castle,* 1.104 southwest from Linlithgow, upon a river, the Manor of Sir Charles Hope, who by these lands is hereditary Bailif of the Regality of Kirkliston, and by the Barony of Aber∣corn is hereditary Sheriff of the Shire. And north from thence, Dundass,* 1.105 formerly a fortification, now adorned with parks and fine gardens, wherein are many curious Plants by the care of that worthy Gentleman Mr. Patrick Murray, the owner there∣of, who, whilst he lived, was the ornament of his Countrey. From whence to the west, between this and Linlithgow, is the Bins,* 1.106 the residence of Gene∣ral Dolzll, adorned by his Excellence with Avenues, large Parks, and fine Gardens. After he had pro∣cured himself a lasting name in the Wars, here it was that he fix'd his old Age, and pleased himself with the culture of curious Flowers and Plants. And up∣on the same coast, Medop,* 1.107 the residence of the Earl of Linlithgow, famous likewise for its fine Gardens, which the father of the present Earl enclosed with high walls, furnish'd with Orange-trees, and such like cu∣rious Exoticks.

But from the present places to descend to those of Antiquity: at the east end of the enclosure of the Kipps,* 1.108 south from Linlithgow, there is an ancient Al∣tar of great stones unpolish'd, so placed as each of them does support another, and no one could stand without leaning upon another. Hard by it, there are several great stones set in a Circle, and in the two adjacent hills the remains of old Camps, with great heaps of stones and ancient Graves.

Some miles also to the west of Queens-Ferry upon the sea-coast, is Abercorn-Castle,* 1.109 near which place Bede tells us the Roman wall began. One may trace it along towards Cariddin, where a figured stone is to be seen, and a gold Medal was found. In a line parallel, about a mile to the south of this, there is a Village which still keeps the remains of the old wall, being called Walltoun. From the name and the artificial Mount cast up there, one would believe it to be the very place which Bede calls Penvalltoun. The track of the wall appears in several places be∣tween this and Kinweill, and from thence to Falkirk; but we need not here be particular in the Description of it, designing a separate discourse upon that subject, at the end of this Kingdom.

Notes

Do you have questions about this content? Need to report a problem? Please contact us.