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FLINTSHIRE.
ON the North of Denbigh lyes Flintshire, a very small County, of an oblong form; wash'd on the North by the Irish Sea, or rather by a branch of it being the chanel of the Dee; bounded on the East by Cheshire, and elsewhere by Denbighshire.
We cannot properly call it mountainous, for it only rises gently with lower hills, and falls by de∣grees into fertil plains; which (towards the Sea espe∣cially) every first year they are plow'd, bear in some places Barley, in others Wheat, but generally Rye, with at least twenty-fold increase; and afterwards Oats for four or five years. On the West it descends to the Maritim part of the Vale of Cluid, and takes up the upper end of that Vale.
In the Confines of this County and Denbighshire, where the Mountains with a gentle declivity seem to retire, and afford an easier pass into the Vale, the Ro∣mans built, at the very entrance, a small City, call'd Varis* 1.1 [a]; which Antoninus places 19 miles from Conovi∣um. This, without the least diminution of its name, is call'd at this day Bod Vari* 1.2, which signifies the Mansi∣on of Varus; and shews the ruins of a City, on a small hill adjoyning, call'd Moel y Gaer, i.e. the City-hill. What the name signifies, is not evident. I have for∣merly suppos'd that Varia in the old British signified a Pass, and accordingly have interpreted Durnovaria, and Isannaevaria, The Passage of the water and of Isanna. Nor does the situation of this Town contra∣dict my conjecture, it being seated at the only con∣venient Pass through these Mountains.
Not three miles hence lyes Kaer-wysk;* 1.3 which name tho' it savour much of Antiquity, yet I observ'd no∣thing there either ancient, or worth notice.
Below this Varis, the river Cluid runs through the Vale, and is immediately joyn'd by Elwy, at the con∣fluence whereof there's a Bishop's See, call'd in Bri∣tish from the name of the river, Lhan Elwy; in Eng∣lish from the Patron, St. Asaph,* 1.4 and in Historians Epis∣copatus Asaphensis. Neither the Town is memorable for its neatness, nor the Church for its structure or elegancy; yet in regard of its antiquity, it is re¦quisite we should mention it. For about the year 560.* 1.5 Kentigern Bishop of Glascow fleeing from Scot∣land, instituted here an Episcopal Seat and a Mona∣stery, placing therein six hundred and sixty three Monks; whereof three hundred being illiterate, were appointed for tilling the Land; the same number for other employments within the Monastery; and the rest for Divine Service: and all these he so distributed into Convents, that some of them attended at pray∣ers continually. Upon his return afterwards into Scotland, he appointed Asaph, a most upright and devout man, Governour of this Monastery; from whom it receiv'd its present name. The Bishop of this Diocese has under his jurisdiction about 128 Pa∣rishes; the Ecclesiastical Benefices whereof (in case of vacancy in the See,) until the time of Henry the 8. were in the disposal of the Arch-bishop, by the Ar∣chiepiscopal right, which is now a Prerogative of the Crown. For so we find it recorded in the Hi∣story of Canterbury.
Higher up, Rhudhlan,* 1.6 so call'd from the reddish bank of the river Cluid where 'tis seated, shews a very fair Castle, but almost decay'd with age. 'Twas built by Lhewelyn ap Sitsilht, Prince of Wales; and first wrested out of the Welshmens hands by Robert de Ruthlan,* 1.7 (‖ nephew of Hugh E. of Chester) and for∣tified with new works, by the said Hugh's Lieutenant. Afterwards as the Abbot de Monte informs us, King Henry the second having repair'd this Castle, gave it to Hugh Beauchamp [b]. Below this Castle, the ri∣ver Cluid is discharged into the Sea, and tho' the Valley at the mouth of this river, does seem lower than the Sea, yet it is never overflown; but by a na∣tural, tho' invisible impediment, the water stands on the very brink of the shore, to our just admiration of Divine Providence.
The shore descending gradually Eastward from this place, passes first by Disart castle, so call d from its steep situation, or (as others will have it) quasi Desert; and thence by Basingwerk,* 1.8 which also Henry the se∣cond granted to Hugh Beauchamp.
Under this place I view'd Holy-well,* 1.9 a small Town where there's a Well much celebrated for the memory of Winfrid* 1.10 a Christian Virgin, ravish'd here, and be∣headed by a Tyrant; as also for the moss it yields of a very sweet scent. Out of this Well a small Brook flows (or rather breaks forth through the stones, on which are seen I know not what kind of blood red spots:) and runs with such a violent course, that im∣mediately it's able to turn a mill. Upon this very Fountain there's a Chapel, which with neat work∣manship, was hewn out of the live-Rock; and a small Church adjoyning thereunto, in a window whereof is painted the History and Execution of St. Winifrid1 1.11. Giraldus2 1.12 writes that in his time there was not far from hence a rich vein of silver, where (says he) in search of that metal—Itum est in viscera terrae [c]. That part of this Country, because it affords the most pleasant prospect, and was long since reduced by the English, was call'd by the Britains Têg-Eingl, which signifies Fair England. But whereas a certain Author has call'd it Tegenia, and supposes the Igeni dwelt there, let the reader be cautious how he assents to it. For that worthy Author was deceiv'd by a corrupt name of the Iceni.
From the shore at this place, we see Flint-castle,* 1.13 which gave name to this County; begun by King Henry 2. and finish'd by Edward 1.3 1.14. Beyond that, on the eastern limit of the County, next Cheshire, lies Hawarden-castle, near the shore, call'd commonly Har∣den* 1.15* 1.16; out of which when Davidh, brother of Prince Lhewelyn, had led captive Roger Clifford Justiciary of Wales; he brought a most dismal war on himself and his countrymen, whereby their Dominion in Wales was wholly overthrown. This castle, which was held by Senescalship of the Earls of Chester, was the seat of the Barons of Mount-hault,* 1.17 who became a very illustrious family; and bore azure a Lion ram∣pant argent: and also encreas'd their honour, by marriage with Cecilia one of the daughters of Hugh D'Albany Earl of Arundel. But the issue-male being at last extinct, Robert, the last Baron of this family (as we have mention'd already) made it over to Queen Isabella, wife of King Edw. 2. but the possessi∣on of the castle was afterwards transferr'd to the Stan∣leys, who are now Earls of Derby.
Below these places, the south part of this Country is water'd by the little river Alen, near which, on a mountain at a village call'd Kilken, there's a spring which like the sea ebbs and flows at set times [d]. On this river Alen lies Hope castle,* 1.18 call'd in Welsh Kaer Gwrle, (into this King Edward 1. retired when the Welsh had surpriz'd his Army:) near which there are milstones* 1.19 hewn out of a rock: and likewise Mold, call'd in British Y Wydhgrig, the castle former∣ly of the Barons of Monthault [e]; both which shew many tokens of antiquity. Near Hope, whilst I was drawing up these notes, a certain Gardener digging somewhat deep, discover'd a very ancient work; con∣cerning which, several have made various conjectures: but whoever consults M. Vitruvius Pollio, will find it no other than the beginning of a Hypocaust of the Ro∣mans, who growing luxurious as their wealth increas'd, used Baths* 1.20 very much. It was five ells long, four broad, and about half an ell in height; encompass'd