Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

CARDIGANSHIRE.

THE shores being obliquely driven back towards the east, from Octopitarum or St. David's promontory, receive the sea into a vast bay, much of the form of a half-moon; on which lies the third Region of the Dimetae, call'd by the English Cardiganshire, in British Sir Aber Teivi, and by Latin Writers, Ceretica. If any suppose it deno∣minated from King Caratacus,* 1.1 his conjecture may seem to proceed rather from a fond opinion of his own, than any authority of the Ancients. And yet we read, that the same renowned Prince Caratacus rul'd in these parts. On the west, towards the sea, it is a champain country; as also to the south, where the river Teivi divides it from Caer-Mardhin-Shire. But towards the east and north, where it borders on Brecknock and Montgomeryshire, there is a continued ridge of mountains, but such as afford good pasturage for sheep and cattel; in the valleys whereof are spread several lakes or natural ponds. That this country was peopl'd formerly, not with cities but small cottages, may be gathered from that saying of their Prince Caratacus, who when he was a captive at Rome, having view'd the splendour and magnifi∣cence of that city, said;* 1.2 Seeing you have these and such like noble structures, why do you covet our small cotta∣ges? [a]. However, let us take a slight view of such places as are of any noted Antiquity.

* 1.3The river Teivi, call'd by Ptolemy Tuerobius, cor∣ruptly for Dwr Teivi which signifies the Teivi water, springs out of the lake Lhyn Teivi, under the moun∣tains already mention'd. At first, 'tis retarded by the rocks; and rumbling amongst the stones without any chanel, takes its course through a very stony country (near which the Mountaneers have at Ros a very great Fair* 1.4 for cattel) to Stratfleur,* 1.5 a Mona∣stery heretofore of the Cluniack Monks, encompass'd on all sides with high mountains.

From hence, being receiv'd into a chanel, it runs by Tre' Gâron,* 1.6 and by Lhan Dhewi Brêvi, a Church dedicated to the memory of St. David Bishop of Me∣nevia, and thence denominated. Where in a full Synod he confuted the Pelagian heresie, at that time reviving in Britain; and that not only out of sacred Scripture, but likewise by miracle: for 'tis reported, that the ground on which he stood preaching, mount∣ed up to a hillock under his feet [b].

Thus far, and farther yet, the river Teivi runs southward to Lhàn-Bedr,* 1.7 a small market-town. From whence directing it's course to the west, it makes a broader chanel, and falling over a steep precipice, ^a near Kil-Garan,* 1.8 makes that Salmon-Leap I have al∣ready mention'd in Penbrokeshire. For this river abounds with Salmon, and was formerly the only river in Britain (as Giraldus supposed) that bred Beavers.* 1.9 A Beaver is an amphibious animal, having it's fore-feet like a dog's, but footed behind like a goose; of a dark gray colour; and having an oblong flat cartilagineous tail, which, in swimming, it makes use of to steer it's course. Giraldus makes several remarks upon the subtilty of this creature; but at this time there are none of them found here [c].

Scarce two miles from this Kîl-Gâran, lies Cardi∣gan;* 1.10 call'd by the Britains Aber Teivi, i.e. Teivi-mouth, the chief town of this County; fortified by Gilbert the son of Richard Clare: but being after∣wards treasonably surrender'd, it was laid waste by Rhŷs ap Gryffydh, and the Governour Robert Fitz-Stephen,* 1.11 whom some call Stephanides, taken prisoner: who after he had remain'd a long time at the devo∣tion of the offended Welsh, for his life, was at length releas'd; but compell'd to resign into their hands, all his possessions in Wales. Whereupon, he made a descent into Ireland, though with a small army, yet very successfully; and was the first of the Nor∣mans, who by his valour made way for the English-Conquest of that Kingdom.

From the mouth of Teivi, the shore, gradually re∣tiring, is wash'd by several rivulets. Amongst them, that which Ptolemy calls Stuccia,* 1.12 at the upper end of the County, deserves our notice; the name whereof is still preserv'd by the common people, who call it Ystwyth. Near the source of this river, there are Lead∣mines [d]; and where it is discharged into the sea, is the most populous town of this whole County, call'd Aber-Ystwyth: which was also fortified with walls by the above-mention'd Gilbert Clare, and defended a long time by Walter Beck an Englishman, against the Welsh.

Not far from hence lies Lhan-Bàdarn-Vawr, i.e. Great St. Patern's, who (as we read in his life) was an Ar∣morican, and govern'd the Church here by feeding, and fed it by governing. To whose memory a Church and Bishop's See was here consecrated: but the Bi∣shoprick (as Roger Hoveden writes) fell to decay long since: for that the people had most barbarously slain their Pastor.

At the same place the river Rheidiol* 1.13 also casts it self into the Ocean; having taken it's course from that very high and steep hill Plin-Lhymmon; which terminates the north part of the County, and pours forth, besides this, those two noble rivers we have al∣ready mention'd, Severn and Wye.

Not very far from Aber-ŷstwyth, the river Dŷvy, the boundary betwixt this County and Merionydh∣shire, is also discharg'd into the Ocean.

The Normans had scarce setled their conquest in Britain, when they assail'd this coast with a navy; and that with good success. For in the time of Wil∣liam Rufus they wrested the sea coasts, by degrees, out of the Welshmen's hands: but granted most part of it to Kadŵgan ap Blèdhyn, a most prudent Britain;* 1.14 a person of great interest throughout Wales, and at the same time in much favour with the English. But* 1.15

his son Owen proving a rash young man, and a ha∣ter of Peace, and annoying the English and Flem∣mings, who had lately settled there, with continual excursions; the unhappy father was depriv'd of his Inheritance, and forced to suffer for the offences of his son, who was also himself constrain'd to leave his native Country, and to flee into Ireland. King Henry the first granted this County of Cardigan to Gilbert Clare, who planted Garisons therein, and for∣tified several Castles. But Kadŵgan, with his son Owen, being afterwards receiv'd into favour by the English, had all his Lands restored to him. Notwith∣standing this, Owen returning again to his old Biass, and raising new Troubles, was slain by Girald of Penbroke, whose wife Nesta he had carried away. His father being carried prisoner into England, ex∣pected for a long time a better change of Fortune; and being at last in his old age restored to his own, was unexpectedly and on a sudden stab'd by his ne∣phew Madok. After that, Roger de Clare receiv'd Cardiganshire, by the munificence of King Henry the second: but Richard Earl of Clare (his son, if I mistake not) being slain whilst he was coming hither by land; Rhŷs, Prince of South-Wales, having with his victorious Army made a great slaughter of the English, reduc'd it at last under his subjection. However, it fell afterwards by degrees, without any blood-shed, into the hands of the English.

It contains 64 Parish-Churches.

ADDITIONS to CARDIGANSHIRE.

[a] THat this Country was subject to King Caractacus, seems not evident from any place in Tacitus or other Author. For we find no mention of the names of those Countries under his Dominion, unless we may presume the Silures, his Subjects, from these words of Tacitus [Annal. Lib. XII.] Itum inde in Siluras, super propriam ferociam Caractaci viribus confisos: quem multa ambigua, multa prospera extulerant, ut caeteros Britanno∣rum Imperatores praemineret, &c. Moreover, tho' we should grant him to have been King of the Dimetae, yet such as a••e concern'd for the ancient reputation of this Count••y, may fairly urge, that tho' they ac∣cept of the authority of Zonaras, who liv'd a thou∣sand years after, yet nothing can be collected from that speech of Caractacus, that may prove this Coun∣t••y to have been more poorly inhabited in those times, than other Provinces, seeing he only speaks in gene∣ral of the Countries in his Dominion, and that we find by his speech in Tacitus, that he was plurium Gentium Imperator, Prince or Soveraign of many Coun∣tries.

* 1.16[b] The Synod for suppression of the Pelagian Heresie, was held about the year 522. For we find in some British Records, that St. Dubricius Arch-bishop of Caer-Lheion, having assisted at the Synod, and re∣sign'd his Bishoprick to St. David, betook himself that year (together with most of the Clergy that had conven'd on that occasion) to a Monastery at Ynys Enlhi* 1.17, where being free from the noise of the world, they might with less interruption, devote the remainder of their lives to God's service. Of this retirement of St. Dubricius and his followers, menti∣on is made also by an eminent Poet† 1.18 of that age, in these words:

Pan oedh Saint Senedh Bhrevi, Drwy arch y prophwydi, Ar ôl gwiw bregeth Dewi, Yn myned i Ynys Enlhi, &c.

At this Church of Lhan Dhewi Brevi, I observ'd an ancient Inscription on a Tomb-stone, which is doubtless remov'd from the place where 'twas first laid, it being plac'd now above the Chancel door; but the Mason that laid it there, had so little regard to the Inscription, that two or three words are hid in the wall, which renders the Epitaph not wholly intel∣ligible. However, it may not perhaps be amiss if we take notice of what remains of it in sight, seeing it's probably such an Epitaph as might become that martyr'd Bishop of Lhan-Badarn, who as Giraldus in∣forms us, was barbarously murder'd by some profane Wretches of his Diocese. For I am apt to conjecture it may bear this sense; Hic jacet Idnert (aliàs Idnerth) filius I....... qui occisus fuit propter Pietatem & San∣ctitatem. But I had rather such as have opportunity of doing it, would satisfie their curiosity, by causing some stones under it to be remov'd, and so reading the whole Inscription, than that they should rely on my conjecture.

[illustration] inscription

There is also another old Inscription on a Stone erected by the Church door, on the out-side; which seems (as well as some others on Crosses) to consist wholly of Abbreviations. What it may import, I shall not pretend to explain; but shall add neverthe∣less a Copy of it, leaving the signification to the Reader's conjecture.

[illustration] inscription

The Sexton of this place shew'd me a Rarity by the name of Matkorn yr ŷch bannog, or Matkorn ŷch Dewi; which he told me had been preserv'd there ever since the time of St. David, adding the fabulous tradition of the Oxen call'd Ychen bannog, which I shall not trouble the Reader with, as being no news to such as live in Wales, nor material information to others.

This Matkorn, however, seem'd to me a very remark∣able curiosity. For if it be not really (as the name

implies) the interiour horn of an Ox, it very much resembles it; and yet is so weighty that it seem'd ab∣solutely petrified. It's full of large cells or holes, and the circumference of it at the root is about 17 inches.

Whilst I was copying the Inscriptions above-men∣tion'd, a Country-man told me there was another at a house call'd Lhannio îsav, in this parish, distant a∣bout a mile from the Church. Being come thither, I found these two Inscriptions, and was inform'd that several others had been discover'd by digging, but that the stones were applied to some uses, and the In∣scriptions not regarded.

* 1.19

[illustration] inscription

[illustration] inscription

The first I read Caij Artij Manibus [aut fortè me∣moriae] Ennius Primus. Another Roman Epitaph, circumscrib'd with lines, in the same manner as this is, may be seen in Reinesius. Synt. Inscr. Cl. 3. LXIV. The letter C. revers'd (as in the first place of this Inscription) denotes frequently Caia, but sometimes also Caius, as may be seen in the same Author, p. 722.

C SEMPRONIO, &c.

This note or character [C] added to the first, fifth, sixth and last letters, is sometimes observ'd in other Roman Inscriptions ‖.* 1.20 As for the second letter of this Inscription, we have frequent examples on stones and coyns, of that form of the letter A. In Reine∣sius p. 3. we find this Inscription:

HERCVLI. L. ARTIVS. &c.

which that learned Critick directs us to read Her∣culi Lartius; but seeing we find here also the name of Artius, peradventure that correction was super∣fluous.

Besides Roman Inscriptions, they find here some times their coyns, and frequently dig up bricks and large free-stone neatly wrought. The place where these Antiquities are found, is call'd Kae'r Kestilh, which signifies Castle-Field, or to speak more distinct∣ly, the Field of Castles; tho' at present there remains not above ground the least sign of any building: nor were there any (for what I could learn) within the memory of any person now living in the neighbour∣hood, or of their Fathers or Grandfathers. However, seeing it is thus call'd, and that it affords also such manifest tokens of its being once inhabited by the Romans, we have little or no reason to doubt, but that they had a Fort or Garison, if not a considera∣ble Town at this place. And that being granted, it will also appear highly probable, that what we now call Lhannio, was the very same with that which Ptolemy places in the Country of the Dimetae, by the name of Lovantinum, or (as Mr. Camden reads it) Lovantium. If any shall urge, that to suppose it only a Castle, and not a City or Town of note, is to grant it not to have been the old Lovantium; I an∣swer, that perhaps we do but commit a vulgar Er∣ror, when we take all the Stations in the Itinerary, and Burroughs of Ptolemy, for considerable Towns or Cities; it being not improbable, but that many of them might have been only Forts or Castles with the addition of a few Houses, as occasion requir'd.

[c] As to the Beavers, tho' we may not rely on the authority of Giraldus in many things he relates, (as one who writ in an age less cautious and accurate, and when nothing pleas'd so much as what excited the admiration of the Reader) yet in this case I see but litt••e reason to question his veracity. Moreover, that there were formerly Beavers in this Kingdom, seems much confirm'd; in that there are two or three Ponds or Lakes in Wales, well known at this day, by the name of Lhyn yr Avangk, i.e. Beaver-pool. The vulgar people of our age, scarce know what creature that Avangk was; and therefore some have been perswaded, that 'twas a Phantom or Apparition which heretofore haunted Lakes and Rivers. As for the name, I take it for granted that 'tis deriv'd from the word Avon, which signifies a River, and suppose it only an abbreviation of the word Avonog, i.e. Fluviatilis; as Lhwynog, [a Fox] signifies Sylvaticus, from Lhwyn, Sylva. And for the signification, 'tis not to be controverted; some old Poets so describing it, that I doubt not, but that they meant a Bea∣ver.

Besides the Beaver, we have had formerly some oher Beasts in Wales, which have been long since totally destroy'd. As first, Wolves; concerning which we read in this Author, in Meirionydh-shire, as also in Derbyshire and Yorkshire. Secondly, Roe-Bucks, call'd in Welsh Iyrchod; which have given names to several places; as Bryn yr Iwrch, Phynon yr Iwrch, Lhwyn Iwrch, &c. Thirdly, The Wild-Boar, whereof men∣tion is made by Dr. Davies, at the end of his Dicti∣onary. And lastly, I have offer'd some arguments to prove also that Bears were heretofore natives of this Island, which may be seen in Mr. Ray's Synopsis Methodica Animalium quadrupedum, &c. p. 213.

[d] There have been, since our Author writ this History, several other Lead-Mines, discover'd in this part of the County; but the most considerable that has been found out in our time (either here, or in any other part of the Kingdom) is that of Bwlch yr Eskir hîr, discover'd Anno 1690. which was lately the possession of the right worshipful Sir Carbury Pryse of Gogerdhan, Baronet, who dying without issue, and the title being extinct, was succeeded in this estate of Gogerdhan, by the worshipful Edward Pryse, the son of Thomas Pryse of Lhan Vrêd, Esq who is the present Proprietor of these Mines. The Ore was here so nigh the surface of the Earth, that (as I have been credibly inform'd) the moss and grass did in some places but just cover it; which seems to add credit to that place of Pliny Nat. Hist. lib. 34. c. 17.—Nigro plumbo ad fistulas laminásque utimur, laboriosiùs in Hispania eruto: sed in Britanniâ summo ter∣rae corio, adeo largè, ut lex ultro dicatur, ne plus certo modo fiat. But because there is a Map of these Lead∣mines, published by the Steward Mr. William Waller, together with a far better account of them than may be expected here, it seems needless to add any more on this subject.

¶ There are also in this Countrey, several such ancient Stone-monuments as we have observ'd in the preceding Counties, whereof I shall briefly mention such as I have seen, because they may differ in some respect from those already describ'd.

Lhêch yr Ast, in the parish of Lhan Goedmor, is a vast rude stone of about eight or nine yards in cir∣cumference, and at least half a yard thick. It is plac'd inclining, the one side of it on the ground, the other supported by a pillar of about three foot high. I have seen a Monument somewhat like this, near Lhan Edern in Glamorganshire, call'd also by a name of the same signification Glâl y Vilast, which affords no information to the curious, signi∣fying only the Bitch-Kennel, because it might serve for such use. That Gwâl y Vilast, is such a rude stone as this, but much longer, and somewhat of an oval form, about four yards long, and two in breadth, supported at one end by a stone about two foot high, somewhat of the same form (tho' much more rude) as those we find at the head and feet of graves in Country Churches. There is also by this

Lhêch yr âst, such another monument, but much less and lower; and five beds (such as we call Kistieu Maen, but not cover'd) scarce two yards long, of rude stones pitch'd in the ground; as likewise a cir∣cular area of the same kind of stones, the diameter whereof is about four yards; but most of the stones of this circle are now fallen: and about six yards from it, there lies a stone on the ground, and an∣other beyond that, at the same distance, which doubtless belong to it.

Meineu hirion near Neuodh (the seat of the worship∣ful David Parry Esq the present High-Sheriff of Pen∣brokeshire) are perhaps some remaining pillars of such a circular stone-monument (though much lar∣ger) as that describ'd in Caer-Mardhin-shire, by the name of Meneu gŵyr.

Meineu Kyvrîvol (or the numerary stones) near the same place, seem to be also the remains of some such barbarous monument. They are 19 stones lying on the ground confusedly, and are therefore call'd Meineu Kyvrîvol by the vulgar, who cannot easily number them; whereof two only seem'd to have been pitch'd on end.

Lhêch y Gowres* 1.21, (a monument well known also in this neighbourhood) seems much more worth our observation; being an exceeding vast stone, pla∣ced on four other very large pillars or supporters, about the height of five or six foot. Besides which four, there are two others pitch'd on end under the top-stone, but much lower, so that they bear no part of the weight. There are also three stones (two large ones, and behind those a lesser) lying on the ground at each end of this monument: and at some distance, another rude stone, which has probably some reference to it. This Lhêch y Gowres stands on such a small bank or rising, in a plain open field, as the five stones near the circular monument call'd Rolrich stones in Oxfordshire.

Hir-vaen gŵydhog* 1.22, is a remarkable pillar about 16 foot high, 3 foot broad, and 2 thick. It's erect∣ed on the top of a mountain, in the confines of the parishes of Kelhan and Lhan y Krŵys, and is at pre∣sent (whatever it was put up for) the mere-stone or boundary betwixt this County and Caer-Mardhin∣shire. Not far from it, is Maen y prenvol, which I have not seen, but suppose from the name to be a monument of that kind we call Kistvaen; for Prenvol in this country (in North-Wales Prennol) signifies a small coffer or chest.

Gwely Taliesin, in the parish of Lhan-Vihangel geneu'r glyn, by its name, and the tradition of the neigh∣bours concerning it, ought to be the grave of the ce∣lebrated Poet Taliesin ben beirdh,† 1.23 who flourish'd about the year 540. This grave or bed (for that's the sig∣nification of the word Gwely) seems also to be a sort of Kist-vaen, 4 foot long, and 3 in breadth; com∣posed of 4 stones, 1 at each end, and 2 side-stones; whereof the highest is about a foot above ground. I take this, and all others of this kind, for old heathen monuments, and am far from believing that ever Taliesin was interr'd here.

But to proceed from these barbarous monuments (which yet I take to be no more rude than those of our neighbour nations before they were conquer'd by the Romans) to something later and more civilized; I shall here add an Inscription I lately copied from a large rude stone in Penbryn parish, not far from the Church. It stood not long since (as I was inform'd) in a small heap of stones, close by the place where it lies now on the ground. The stone is as hard as marble, and the letters large and very fair, and deeper inscrib'd than ordinary; but what they sig∣nifie, I fear must be left to the Reader's conjecture.

I must confess, that at first view, I thought I might venture to read it, Cor Balencii jacit Ordous; and to interpret it, The heart of Valentius of North-Wales lies here; supposing that such a person might have been slain there in battel. In old Inscriptions we often find the letter B. used for V. as Balerius for Valerius, Bixsit for Vixsit, Militabit for Militavit, &c. and the word Ordous I thought not very remote from Ordo∣vices. But I am not satisfied with this notion of it my self, much less do I expect that others should acquiesce therein.

[illustration] inscription

In this same parish of Penbryn, was found some years since, a British gold coyn, weighing (I sup∣pose) above a Guinea; which is now in the posses∣sion of the worshipful John Williams Esquire of Aber Nant bychan, who was pleas'd to send me the figure of it, inserted now amongst some other Antiquities at the end of these Counties of Wales.

From this, and many others found in several pla∣ces of this Kingdom, it's manifest the Britains had gold and silver coyns of their own, before the Roman Conquest; unless such as contend for the contrary, can make it appear that these coyns were brought in by the Phoenicians, or some other trading Nation, which I think no man has yet attempted. For see∣ing such of these coyns as want Inscriptions are al∣ways a little hollow on the one side, and have also impressions or characters (if I may so call them) different from those of Roman and all other coyns; it's very plain the art of coyning them was never learn'd of the Romans; for if so, we had never met with these unintelligible characters on them, but Ro∣man letters, such as, by some coyns of‖ 1.24 Cassivelaunus and Cunobelin, we find they made use of after their conquest.

Since Mr. Camden's time, Thomas Brudenel, Baron Brudenel of Stoughton, was created Earl of Cardigan* 1.25 by K. Charles 2. Apr. 20. 1661. upon whose death Robert his son succeeded in his estate and titles.

[illustration] map of North Wales

NORTH WALES By Rob^t, Morden

Notes

• * 1.1

  ••••••g Cara∣••••••••••.
• * 1.2

  ••••••••ras.
• * 1.3

  〈…〉〈…〉 ••••••er 〈◊〉〈◊〉.
• * 1.4

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 F••ir.
• * 1.5

  ••••r••••••r, ••••••a f••o∣••••.
• * 1.6

  ••••e' Gâ••••n. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Phe∣••••••••••.
• * 1.7

  ••••••••-Bedr.
• * 1.8

  ••••••-Garan.
• * 1.9

  ••••••vers.
• * 1.10

  Cardigan.
• * 1.11

  Fitz Steven.
• * 1.12

  Stuccia, or the river Ystwyth.
• * 1.13

  Rheidiol.
• * 1.14

  Lords of Cardigan.
• * 1.15

  This Salmon-Leap is not at Kil-Garan, but between Kennarth and Lhan Dugwydh.
• * 1.16

  MS. of Mr. R. Vaughan of Hen∣gwit.
• * 1.17

  Bardsey Island.
• † 1.18

  A•••••• Gatr•••• [a•••••• Gw••••∣dru•••••• Myc•••••••• B••irdh Anc•••••••• Satyr•••• King o•• Bards
• * 1.19

  ••••ga∣••••ni ••••en 〈…〉〈…〉.
• * 1.20

  〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.21

  Id est, Saxum foe∣minae gi∣ganteae.
• * 1.22

  Id est, Colossus conspicuus.
• † 1.23

  Id est, Taliesinus protovates.
• ‖ 1.24

  B•••• wa•••• a••a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ve••••
• * 1.25

  Ear•••• Car••••••••••