Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

PENBROKSHIRE.

THE Sea now winding it self to the South, and by a vast compass and se∣veral Creeks rendring the shore very uneven, encroaches on all sides on the County of Penbroke (commonly call'd Penbrokshire, in ancient Records The Legal County of Penbroke, and by some, West-Wales) ex∣cept on the East, where it is bounded with Caer∣mardhin-shire, and the North, where it borders on Cardiganshire. 'Tis a fertile Country for Corn, affords plenty of Marl and such like things to fatten and enrich the Land, as also of Coal for Fuel, and is ve∣ry well stock'd with Cattel. This Country (saith Gi∣raldus) affords plenty of Wheat, is well serv'd with Sea-fish and imported Wine; and (which exceeds all other advantages) in regard of its nearness to Ireland, enjoys a wholsome Air.

First, on the Southern Coast, Tenbigh* 1.1 a neat town,1 1.2 strongly wall'd, beholds the Sea from the dry shore; a place much noted for the Ships that harbour there, and for plenty of Fish, whence in British it's call'd Dinbech y Pyskod; govern'd by a Mayor and a Bailiff. To the West of this place are seen on the shore the ruins of Manober Castle,* 1.3 call'd by Giraldus Pyrrhus's Mansion; in whose time (as he himself informs us) it was adorn'd with stately Towers and Bulwarks, having on the West-side a spacious Haven, and under the Walls, to the North and Northwest an excellent Fish-pond, re∣markable as well for its neatness, as the depth of its water. The shore being continu'd some few miles from hence, and at length withdrawing it self, the Sea on both sides comes far into the Land, and makes that Port which the English call Milford-Haven;* 1.4 than which there is none in Europe, either more spacious or se∣cure, so many Creeks and Harbours hath it on all sides; and to use the Poet's words,

Hic exarmatum terris cingentibus aequor Clauditur, & placidam discit servare quietem. Here circling banks the furious winds controul, And peaceful waves with gentle murmurs rowl.

For it contains sixteen Creeks, five Bays, and thirteen Roads, distinguish'd by their several names. Nor is this Haven more celebrated for these advantages, than for Henry the Seventh of happy memory land∣ing here; who from this place gave England (at that time languishing with Civil Wars) the Signal of good hopes.

At the innermost and eastern Bay of this Haven2 1.5,* 1.6 a long Cape (saith Giraldus) extended from Milver-dike with a forked head, shews the principal town of this Province, and the Metropolis of Dimetia, seated on a rocky oblong Promon∣tory, in the most pleasant Country of all Wales, call'd by the Britains Penvro, which signifies the Cape or Sea-Promontory, and thence in English, Penbroke. Arnulph de Montgomery, brother to Robert Earl of Shrewsbury, built this Castle in the time of King Henry the first, but very meanly with Stakes only and green Turf. Which upon his return afterwards into England, he deliver'd to Girald of Windsor, a prudent man, his Constable and Lieutenant Gene∣ral, who with a small Garison was presently besieged therein, by all the Forces of South-Wales. But Giraldus and his party made such resistance (tho' more with courage than strength) that they were forced to retire without success. Afterward, this Giraldus fortified both the Town and Castle; from whence he annoy'd the neighbouring Countries a great way round. And for the better settlement of himself and his friends in this Country, he married Nest, the sister of Prince Gryffydh, by whom he had a noble Off-spring; by whose means (saith Giraldus, who was descended from him) not only the Maritime parts of South-Wales were retain'd by the English, but also the Walls of Ireland redu∣ced.* 1.7 For all those noble Families in Ireland call'd Giralds, Giraldines, and Fitz-Giralds, are descended from him. In regard of the Tenure of this Castle and Town, and the Castle and Town of Tinbigh,* 1.8 of the Grange of King's-Wood, the Commot of Croytarath and Manour of Castle-Martin and Tregoir, Reginald Grey at the Coronation of Henry the fourth, claim'd the honour of bearing the second Sword, but all in vain; for 'twas answerd, that at that time those Castles and Farms were in the King's hands, as also at this day the Town of Pembroke, which is a Corporation, and is govern'd by a Mayor and two Bayliffs.

On another Bay of this Haven we find Carew-Castle,* 1.9 which gave both name and original to the illustrious Family of Carew, who affirm themselves to have been call'd at first de Montgomery, and that they are descended from that Arnulph de Montgomery already mention'd.

Two Rivers are discharg'd into this Haven, almost in the same Chanel, call'd in the British tongue Cled∣heu,* 1.10 which in English signifies a Sword, whence they call it Aber-dau-Gledheu, i.e. the Haven of two Swords. Hard by the more easterly of them, standeth Slebach, once a Commandery of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, which, with other Lands, Wizo and his son Walter setled upon that holy Order; that they might serve as the Champions of Christ, in order to reco∣ver the Holy-Land.

That part of the Country which lies beyond the Haven, and is water'd only with these two rivers, is call'd by the Britains Rhos; a name deriv'd from the situation of it, for that it is a large green plain. This part is inhabited by Flemings,* 1.11 who settled here by the permission of King Henry the first; when as the

Sea, making breaches in their fences, had drown'd a considerable part of the Low-Countreys. They are at this day distinguish'd from the Welsh by their speech and customs: and they speak a language so agreeable with the English (which indeed has much affinity with Dutch) that this small Country of theirs is call'd by the Britains Little England beyond Wales.* 1.12 This (saith Giraldus) is a stout and resolute Nation, and very offen∣sive to the Welsh by their frequent skirmishes: a people much inured to cloathing and merchandize, and ready to increase their stock at any labour or hazard, by sea and land. A most puissant Nation, and equally prepared, as time and place shall require, either for the sword or plow. And that I may add also this one thing, a Nation most devoted to the Kings of England, and faithful to the Eng∣lish; and which, in the time of Giraldus, understood Soothsaying, or the inspection of the Entrails of beasts, even to admiration. Moreover, the Flemings-way, which was a work of theirs, (as they are a Nation exceeding industrious,) is seen here extended through a long tract of ground. The Welsh endeavouring to regain their old country, have often set upon these Flemings with all their power, and have ravag'd and spoil d their borders; but they always with a ready courage defended their lives, their fortunes, and re∣putation [a]. Whence William of Malmesbury writes thus of them, and of William Rufus; William Rufus had generally but ill fortune against the Welsh; which one may well wonder at, seeing all his attempts elsewhere prov'd successful. But I am of opinion, that as the unevenness of their country and severity of the weather favour'd their rebellion, so it hinder'd his progress. But King Henry, that now reigns, a man of excellent wisdom, found out an art to frustrate all their inventions, by planting Flemings in their country, to curb and continually harass them. And again in the fifth book; King Henry often endeavour'd to reduce the Welsh, who were always prone to rebellion: at last very advisedly, in order to abate their pride, he transplanted thither all the Flemings that liv'd in England. For at that time there were many of them come over on account of their relation to his mother, by her father's side; insomuch that they were burdensome to the Kingdom: wherefore he thrust them all into Ros, a Province of Wales, as into a common shore, as well to rid the Kingdom of them, as to curb the obstinacy of his enemies.

On the more westerly of these two rivers call'd Cledheu, in a very uneven situation, lies Haverford;* 1.13 call'd by the Britains Hwlfordh: a town of good ac∣count, as well for it s neatness as number of inhabi∣tants3 1.14. This is a County of it self, and is govern'd by a Mayor, a Sheriff, and two Bayliffs. It is re∣ported, th t the Earls of Clare fortify'd it on the no••th-side with walls and a rampire; and we have it r••corded, that Richard Earl of Clare made Richard Fitz-Tankred Governour of this castle.

Beyond Ros, we have a spacious Promontory, ex∣tended far into the Irish sea; call'd by Ptolemy Octo∣pitarum,* 1.15 by the Britains Pebidiog and Kantrev Dewi, and in English St. David's Land.* 1.16 A Land (saith Gi∣raldus) both rocky and barren, neither clad with trees, nor distinguish'd with rivers, nor adorn'd with meadows; but expos'd continually to the winds and storms: however the retiring place and nursery of several Saints. For Calphurnius a British Priest, (as some have written, I know not how truly) begat here, in the vale of Rhôs, St. Patrick* 1.17 the Apostle of Ireland, on his wife Concha, sister of St. Martin of Tours. And Dewi, a most Religious Bishop, translated the Archiepiscopal seat from Kaer-Leion to the utmost corner of this place, viz. Menew [b] or Menevia, which from him was afterwards call'd by the Britains Ty Dewi i.e. David's House; by the Saxons Dauyd-Mynster, and by our modern English St. David's.* 1.18 For a long time it had its Archbishops; but the plague raging very much in this Country, the Pall was translated to Dôll in Little Britain, which was the end of this Archi∣episcopal dignity. Notwithstanding which, in the later ages, the Britains commenc'd an Action on that account, against the Archbishop of Canterbury, Me∣tropolitan of England and Wales; but were cast. What kind of place this St. David's was heretofore, is hard to guess, seeing it has been so often sack'd by Pirates: at present it is a very mean city, and shews only a fair Church consecrated to St. Andrew and St. David. Which having been often demolish'd; was built in that form we now see it, in the reign of King John, by Peter then Bishop thereof and his successors, in the Vale (as they call it) of Rhôs, un∣der the town. Not far from it is the Bishop's palace, and very fair houses, of the Chanter (who is chief next the Bishop, for here is no Dean) the Chancel∣lour, the Treasurer, and four Archdeacons, who are of the Canons (whereof there are4 1.19 twenty one,) all inclosed with a strong and stately wall5 1.20.

This Promontory is so far extended westward, that in a clear day we may see Ireland: and from hence is the shortest passage into it; which Pliny er∣roneously computed to be thirty miles distant from the Country of the Silures; for he thought their country had extended thus far. But we may gather from these words of Giraldus, that this Cape was once extended farther into the sea; and that the form of the Promontory has been alter'd. At such time as Henry 2. (saith he) was in Ireland,* 1.21 by reason of an ex∣traordinary violence of storms, the sandy shores of this coast were laid bare, and that face of the land appear'd which had been cover'd for many ages. Also the Trunks of trees which had been cut down, standing in the midst of the sea, with the strokes of the axe as fresh as if they had been yesterday: with very black earth, and several old blocks like Ebony. So that now it did not appear like the sea-shore, but rather resembl'd a grove, by a miraculous Metamorphosis, perhaps ever since the time of the Deluge, or else long after, at leastwise very anciently, as well cut down, as consumed and swallowed up by degrees, by the violence of the sea, continually encroaching upon, and washing off the land [c]. And that saying of William Rufus shews that the lands were not here disjoyn'd by any great sea; who when he beheld Ireland from these rocks, said, He could easily make a bridge of ships, whereby he might walk from England into that Kingdom.

There are excellent and noble Falcons* 1.22 that breed in these rocks, which our King Henry 2. (as the same Giraldus informs us) was wont to prefer to all others. For (unless I am deceiv'd by some of that neighbourhood) they are of that kind which they call Peregrins. For according to the account they give of them, I need not use other words to describe them, than these verses of that excellent Poet of our age, Augustus Thuanus Esmerius, in that golden book he entitles Hieracosophion:

Depressus capitis vertex, oblongaque toto Corpore pennarum series, pallentia crura, Et graciles digiti ac sparsi, naresque rotundae. Flat heads, and feathers laid in curious rows O'er all their parts, hook'd beaks, and slender claws.

The sea now with great violence assails the land, receding from this Promontory; which is a small region call'd the Lordship of Kemaes.* 1.23 The chief place in it is Fiscard, seated on a steep rock, and having a convenient harbour for shipping: so call'd by the English from a Fishery there; and by the Britains Aber-Gwain, which signifies the mouth of the river Gwain. The next is Newport* 1.24* 1.25 on the river Nevern, call'd in British Trevdraeth, which signifies the town on the sand6 1.26. This was built by Martin of Tours, whose posterity made it a corporation, granted it several privileges, and constituted therein a Portrieve and Bayliff; and also built themselves a Castle above the town, which was their chief seat. They also founded the Monastery of St. Dogmael* 1.277 1.28 on the bank of the river Teivi, in a Vale encompass'd with hills, from which the village adjoyning (as many other towns from Monasteries) took it's beginning. This Barony was first wrested out of the hands of the Welsh by Martin of Tours,* 1.29 from whose posterity (who were from him call'd Martins) it descended

by marriage to the Barons de Audeley. They held it a long time, until the reign of King Henry 8. when William Owen, descended from a daughter of Sir Ni∣cholas Martin, after a tedious suit at law for his right, at last obtain'd it, and left it to his son George; who, (being an exquisite Antiquary) has inform'd me, that there are in this Barony, besides the three Burrows, (Newport, Fishgard, and St. Dogmael) 20 Knights-fees and 26 Parishes.

More inward on the river Teivi already mention'd, lies Kil Garan;* 1.30 which shews the ruins of a Castle built by Giraldus. But now being reduc'd to one street, it's famous for no other thing than a plentiful Salmon Fishery. For there is a very famous Salmon-Leap* 1.31 where the river falls headlong; and the Salmons making up from the sea towards the Shallows of the river, when they come to this cataract bend their tails to their mouths; nay sometimes, that they may leap with greater force, hold it in their teeth; and then upon disengaging themselves from their circle, with a certain violence, as when a stick that's bent is reflected, they cast themselves from the water up to a great height, even to the admiration of the spe∣ctators: which Ausonius thus describes very elegantly:

Nec te puniceo rutilantem viscere, Salmo, Transierim, latae cujus vaga verbera caudae, Gurgite de medio summas referuntur in undas. Nor thou, red Salmon, shalt be last in fame, Whose flirting tail cuts through the deepest stream, With one strong jerk the wondring flood deceives, And sporting mounts thee to the utmost waves.

There have been divers Earls of Penbroke* 1.32 de∣scended from several families. As for Arnulph of Montgomery, who first conquer'd it, and was after∣wards out-law'd; and his Castellan Girald [of Wind∣sor] whom King Henry 1. made afterwards President over the whole country; I can scarce affirm that they were Earls. King Stephen first conferr'd the title of Earl of Pembroke upon Gilbert Strongbow son of Gisle∣bert de Clare. He left it to his son Richard Strong∣bow, the Conquerour of Ireland; who was (as Gi∣raldus has it) à Clara Clarensium familia oriundus, de∣scended from the famous family of the Clares. Isabella the only daughter of this Earl, brought this title to her husband William Marshal (so call'd for that his Ancestors had been hereditary Marshals of the King's palace) a very accomplish'd person, well in∣structed in the arts of peace and war. Of whom we find this Epitaph in Rudburn's Annals:

Sum quem Saturnum sibi sensit Hibernia, Solem Anglia, Mercurium Normannia, Gallia Martem. Me Mars the French, their Sun the English own'd, The Normans Mercury, Irish Saturn found.

After him his five sons were successively Earls of Pembroke; viz. William, call'd the younger; Richard, who having rebell'd against Henry 3. fled into Ire∣land, where he died in battel; Gilbert, who at a tournament in War was unhors'd, and so kill'd; and Walter and Anselm8 1.33. All these dying in a short space without issue; King Henry 3. invested with the honour of this Earldom William de Valentia, of the family of Lusignia in Poictiers, who was his own bro∣ther by the mother's side; and marry'd Joan, the daughter of Gwarin de Mont Chensey by a daughter of William Marshal. To William de Valentia succeed∣ed his son Audomar, who was Governour of Scotland under K. Edw. 1. His9 1.34 second sister and coheiress Elizabeth, being marry'd to John Lord Hastings, brought this title into a new family. For Lawrence Hastings his grandchild by a son,10 1.35 who was Lord of Abergavenny, was made E. of Penbroke by a Rescript of K. Edward 3. a copy whereof it may not be amiss to subjoyn here, that we may see what right there was by heirs-female in these honorary titles. Rex omnibus ad quos, &c. salutem. Know ye, that the good presage of wisdom and virtue, which we have conceiv'd by the towardly youth and happy beginnings of our most well beloved Cousin Lawrence Hastings, deservedly in∣duce us to countenance him with our especial grace and fa∣vour, in those things which concern the due preservation and maintenance of his honour. Whereas therefore, the inheritance of Aimar of Valence, sometime Earl of Pen∣broke, deceas'd long since without heir begotten of his body, hath been devolv'd upon his sisters, proportionably to be di∣vided among them and their heirs: because we know for certain, that the foresaid Lawrence, who succeedeth the said Aimar in part of the inheritance, is descended from the eldest sister of Aimar aforesaid, and so by the avouching of the learned, whom we consulted about this matter, the Pre∣rogative both of name and honour is due unto him. We deem it just and due, that the same Lawrence claiming his title from the elder sister, assume and have the name of Earl of Penbroke, which the said Aimar had whilst he liv'd. Which, as much as lyeth in us, we confirm, ratifie, and also approve unto him: willing and granting, that the said Lawrence have and hold the Prerogative and honour of Earl-Palatine in those lands which he hold∣eth of the said Aimar's inheritance; so fully and after the same manner as the same Aimar had and held them, at the time of his death, &c. Witness the King at Montmartin, the 13th day of October, and the 13th year of his reign.

This Lawrence Hastings was succeeded by his son John, who being taken by the Spaniards in a sea-fight, and afterwards redeem'd, died in France in the year 1375. To him succeeded his son John, who was kill'd in a Tournament at Woodstock Anno 1391.11 1.36. And it was observ'd of this family (I know not by what fate) that no father ever saw his son for five generations. He leaving no issue, several considerable Revenues devolv'd to the Crown: and the Castle of Penbroke was granted to Francis At-court, a courtier of that time in great favour; who upon that account was commonly call'd Lord of Penbroke.12 1.37 And not long after, John Duke of Bedford, and after him his brother Humfrey Duke of Glocester, the sons of K. Hen. 4. obtain'd the same title. After that, William de la Pole was made Marquis of Penbroke; up∣on whose decease K. Hen. 6. created Jasper de Hatfield his brother by the mother's side, Earl of Penbroke; who being afterwards divested of all honours by K. Hen. 4. was succeeded by13 1.38 William Herbert, who was kill'd in the battel at Banbury. To him succeeded a son of the same name, whom Edw. 4. having recover'd his Kingdom, created Earl of Huntingdon, conferring the title of Earl of Penbroke, on his eldest son Ed∣ward Prince of Wales. A long time after that, King Hen. 8. entitled Anne of Bullen, (whom he had be∣trothed) Marchioness of Penbroke14 1.39. At last King Edw. 6. in our memory, invested15 1.40 William Herbert, Lord of Caer-Diff, with the same title. He was suc∣ceeded by his son Henry, who was President of Wales under Queen Elizabeth. And now his son William, a person in all respects most accomplish'd, enjoys that honour.* 1.41 This family of the Herberts is very no∣ble and ancient in these parts of Wales. For they derive their pedigree from Henry Fitz-Herbert, Cham∣berlain to K. Hen. 1. who marry'd that King's‖ 1.42 Con∣cubine, Reginald Earl of Cornwal's mother, as I am inform'd by Mr. Robert Glover, a person of great in∣sight in Genealogies; by whose untimely decease, Genealogical Antiquities have suffer'd extreamly.

Parishes in this County 145.

ADDITIONS to PENBROKSHIRE.

[a] THAT our Author hath justly repre∣sented the Flemings to be a warlike and industrious Nation, is very evident, as well from the account we have of them in History, as that they have maintain'd their Terri∣tories to be distinguishable from the Welsh even to this day. But that all Wales with united Forces, hath several times invaded their Country, and that without success, seems a more honourable character of them, than we find in other Historians. I shall therefore transcribe what Dr. Powel hath deliver'd upon this occasion, in his* 1.43 History of Wales.

In the year 1217. Prince Lhewelyn ap Gorwerth marched to Dyved, and being at Kevn Kynwarchan, the Flemings sent to him to desire a peace; but the Prince would not grant them their request. Then young Rŷs was the first that pass'd the river Kledheu, to fight with those of the town [of Haverford:] whereupon Gorwerth Bi∣shop of St. Davids, with all his Clergy, came to the Prince, to intercede for peace in behalf of the Flemings, which af∣ter long debating was thus concluded.

First, That all the Inhabitants of Ros, and the Land of Penbroke should become the Prince's subjects, and ever from thence-forth take him for their liege Lord.

Secondly, That they should pay him 1000 Marks to∣ward his charges, before Michaelmas next coming.

Thirdly, That for the performance of these, they should deliver forthwith to the Prince twenty Pledges of the best in all the Country, &c.

—And again, p. 279.

In the year 1220. Lhewelyn Prince of Wales led an Army to Penbroke against the Flemings, who contrary to their Oath and League had taken the Castle of Aber Teivi, which Castle the Prince destroy'd, putting the Ga∣rison to the sword, ras'd the Castle, and went thence to the Land of Gwys, where he ras'd that Castle, and burn'd the Town. Also he caus'd all Haverford to be burn'd to the Castle-gates, and destroy'd all Ros and Daugledhau; and they that kept the Castle sent to him for Truce till May, which was concluded upon Conditions, and so he re∣turn'd home.

[b] As to the ancient name of S. Davids, there is not far from it a place at this day call'd Melin Meneu; wherein is preserv'd the old denomination. But the original signification of the word Meneu is now lost, and perhaps not to be retriev'd. However, I would recommend it to the curious in Ireland and Scotland (where the names of places agree much with those in Wales) to consider whether it may not signifie a Frith or narrow Sea; for we find the Chanel betwixt Caernarvonshire and the Isle of Anglesey to be call'd Aber∣meneu; and that there is here also a small Fretum, call'd the Sound, betwixt this place and the Isle of Ramsey; and another place call'd Meney, by a Frith in Scot∣land, in the County of Buquhan.

[c] Besides the instance of the Sea-sands being washt off, we find the same to have happen'd about the year 1590. For Mr. George Owen, who liv'd at that time, and is mention'd by our Author as a learn∣ed and ingenious person, gives us the following ac∣count of it in a Manuscript History of this County.

About twelve or thirteen years since, it happen'd that the Sea-sands at Newgal, which are cover'd every tide, were by some extraordinary violence of the Waves so washed off, that there appeared stocks of Trees, doubtless in their native places; for they retain'd manifest signs of the stroaks of the ax, at the falling of them. The Sands being washed off, in the winter, these Buts remain'd to be seen all the sum∣mer following, but the next year the same were cover'd again with the Sands. By this it appeareth that the Sea in that place hath intruded upon the Land. Moreover, I have been told by the neighbours of Coed Traeth near Tenby, that the like hath been seen also upon those Sands, &c. To this an ingenious and inquisitive Gentleman of this Country, adds, that the same hath been observ'd of late years near Capel Stinan or St. Justinian's; where were seen not only the roots or stocks of Trees, but also divers pieces of squar'd timber. As for roots or stumps, I have often observ'd them my self at a low ebb, in the Sands betwixt Borth and Aber Divy in Cardiganshire; but remember nothing of any im∣pression of the Axe on them; but on the contrary, that many of them, if not all, were very smooth; and that they appear'd, as to substance, more like the cole-black Peat or Fuel-turf, than Timber.

¶ There are in this County several such circular stone Monuments, as that describ'd in Caer-Mardhin∣shire by the name of Meineu gŵyr, and Karn Lhechart in Glamorgan. But the most remarkable is that call'd y Gromlech,* 1.44 near Pentre Evan in Nevern-parish, where there are several rude stones pitch'd on end in a cir∣cular order; and in the midst of the circle a vast rude stone placed on several pillars. The diameter of the Area is about fifty foot. The stone supported in the midst of this circle is 18 foot long, and 9 in breadth; and at the one end it's about three foot thick, but thinner at the other. There lies also by it a piece broken off, about ten foot long, and five in breadth, which seems more than twenty Oxen can draw. It's supported by three large rude Pillars, about eight foot high; but there are also five others, which are of no use at present, as not being high enough, or duly placed to bear any weight of the top-stone. Under this stone, the ground is neatly flag'd, consider∣ing the rudeness of Monuments of this kind. I can say nothing of the number and height of the stones in the circle, not having seen this Monument my self, but given this account of it out of Mr. George Owen's Manuscript History above-mention'd, which was communicated to me by the worshipful John Lewis of Manour Nowen Esq. And I have also receiv'd a description of it from a person, who at my request lately view'd it, not differing materially from that we find in the Manuscript. The name of this Mo∣nument seems much of the same signification with Meineu gŵyr, for Krwm (in the Feminine gender Krom) signifies as well as gŵyr, crooked or bending; and Lhêch a stone of a flat form, more or less, whether na∣tural or artificial. And as we have observ'd another Monument in Caernarvonshire, call'd Lhech or Maen gŵyr, so we meet with several in Anglesey, and some in other parts of Wales call'd Kromlecheu. Now that these Monuments have acquired this name from bow∣ing, as having been places of worship in the time of Idolatry, I have no warrant to affirm. However, in order to farther enquiry, we may take notice, that the Irish Historians call one of their chiefest Idols Cromcruach;* 1.45 which remain'd till St. Patrick's time in the plain of Moy-sleuct in Brefin. This Idol is describ'd to have been auro & argento caelatum, and said to be attended with twelve other Idols much less, all of brass, plac'd round about him. Cromcruach, at the approach of St. Patrick, fell to the ground, and the lesser Idols sunk into the Earth up to their necks: the heads whereof (says one of the Authors of the life of St. Patrick cited by Colganus) are in perpetual me∣mory of this miracle, still prominent out of the ground, and to be seen at this day. Now although we should question the authority of this Writer, as to these mi∣racles; yet if we may be allow'd to make any use at all of such Histories, we may from hence infer that this circle of stones (which are here mention'd by the name of Idol's heads) was before the planting of Christianity in this Country, a place of Idolatrous worship. And if that be granted, we shall have little reason to doubt but that our Kromlech, as well as all other such circular Stone-monuments in Britain and Ireland (whereof I presume there are not less than 100 yet remaining) were also erected for the same use. But to proceed farther; this relation of idola∣trous worship at Crumcruach, seems much confirm'd by the general Tradition concerning such Monuments in Scotland. For upon perusal of some Letters on this subject, from the learned and judicious Dr. James

Garden, Professor of Divinity at Aberdeen, to an in∣genious Gentleman of the Royal Society *,* 1.46 (who, for what I can learn, was the first that suspected these Circles for Temples of the Druids) I find that in several parts of that Kingdom, they are call'd Chapels and Temples; with this farther Tradition, that they were places of worship in the time of Heathenism, and did belong to the Drounich. Which word some inter∣pret the Picts; but the Dr. suspects it might denote originally the Druids: in confirmation whereof, I add, that a village in Anglesey is calld'd Tre'r Driw, and interpreted the Town of the Druid. Now the diminu∣tive of Driw must be Driwin (whence perhaps Kaer Drewin in Merionydhshire) and ch is well known to be an usual Irish termination in such Nouns.

As for such as contend that all Monuments of this kind, were erected by the Danes, as Trophies, Seats of Judicature, places for electing their Kings, &c. they'l want History to prove, that ever the Danes had any Dominion, or indeed the least Settlement in Wales or the High-lands of Scotland; where yet such Monuments are as frequent, if not more common, than in other places of Britain. For although we find it registred that they have several times committed de∣predations on our Sea-coasts, destroying some Mari∣time places in the Counties of Glamorgan, Pembroke, Cardigan, and Anglesey; and sometimes also making excursions into the Country: yet we read they made no longer stay than whilst they plunder'd the Religi∣ous Houses, and extorted money and provisions from the people. Now if it be demanded, why they might not in that short stay, erect these Monuments; I have nothing to answer, but that such vast perennial memorials, seem rather to be the work of a people settled in their Country, than of such roving Pirats, who for their own security must be continually on their guard, and consequently have but small leisure or reason for erecting such lasting Monuments. And that we find also these Monuments in the Mountains of Caernarvonshire, and divers other places, where no History does inform us, nor conjecture suggest, that ever the Danes have been. To which may be ad∣ded, that if we compare strictly the descriptions of the Danish and Swedish Monuments in Saxo Gram∣maticus, Wormius, and Rudbeckius, with ours in Bri∣tain, we shall find considerable difference in the or∣der or structure of them. For (if we may place that here) I find none of them comparable to that mag∣nificent, tho' barbarous Monument, on Salisbury Plain; nor any that has such a table in the midst, as the Kromlech here described; whereas several of ours in Wales have it, though it be usually much less; and very often this Table or a Kist-vaen is found without any circle of stones, and sometimes on the contrary circles of stones without any Kist-vaen or other stone in the midst. But this we need not so much insist upon; for tho' they should agree exactly, yet are we not therefore oblig'd to acknow∣ledge our Monuments were erected by the Danes. For as one Nation since the planting of Christianity hath imitated another, in their Churches, Chapels, Sepulchral Monuments, &c. so also in the time of Paganism, the Rites and Customs in Religion must have been deriv'd from one Country to another. And I think it probable, should we make diligent enqui∣ry, that there may be Monuments of this kind still extant in the less frequented places of Germany, France, and Spain; if not also in Italy. But I fear I have too long detain'd the Reader with probabili∣ties, and shall therefore only add, that whatever else hath been the use of these Monuments, its very evi∣dent they have been (some of them at least) us'd as burial places; seeing Mr. Aubrey in that part of his Monumenta Britannica he entitles Templa Druidum, gives us some instances of human Skeletons, found on the outside of one or two of them in Wiltshire. And Dr. Garden in his foremention'd Letters, affirms that some persons yet living have dug ashes out of the bottom of a little circle (set about with stones stand∣ing close together) in the center of one of those Mo∣numents near the Church of Keig in the shire of Aber∣deen; and adds farther, that in the shire of Inverness, and parish of Enner Allen, there is one of these Mo∣numents, call'd the Chapel of Tilligorum, aliàs Capel Mac-mulach, which is full of Graves, and was with∣in the memory of some living an ordinary place of burial, at least for poor people, and continues to be so at this day for strangers, and children that dye without baptism.

We have not room here to take notice of the other Monuments of this kind, which this County affords; and shall therefore only observe, that in Newport-parish there are five of these Tables or Altars (that we may distinguish them by some name) placed near each other, which some conjecture to have been once encompass'd with a circle of Stone-pillars, for that there are two stones yet standing near them. But these are nothing comparable in bigness to the Grom∣lech here describ'd, and not rais'd above three foot high; nor are they supported with pillars, but stones placed edgewise; and so are rather of that kind of Monuments we call Kistieu-maen or Stone-chests, than Krom-lecheu.

I had almost forgot to acquaint the Reader, that there is also in Nevern-parish, besides the Gromlech, another Monument call'd commonly Lhech y Drybedh (i.e. Tripodium) and by some the Altar-stone. It's somewhat of an oval form, and about twelve yards in circumference, placed on four stones (whereof one is useless as not touching it) scarce two foot high. At the South-end, 'tis about four foot and a half in thickness, but sensibly thinner to the other end, where it exceeds not four inches; at which end there is cut such a Ductus or Conveyance, as might serve to car∣ry off any liquid that should run down, but to what purpose it was design'd, I shall not pretend to con∣jecture.

Y maen sigl,* 1.47 or the Rocking-stone, deserves also to be mention'd here; altho' (having never seen it my self) I am not fully satisfied, whether it be a Monu∣ment, or as Mr. Owen seems to suppose, purely acci∣dental. But by the account I hear of it, I suspect it rather an effect of human industry, than chance. This shaking stone (says he) may be seen on a Sea-cliff within half a mile of St. David's; it's so vast, that I presume it may exceed the draught of an hundred Oxen; and altoge∣ther rude and unpolished. The occasion of the name is, for that being mounted upon divers other stones, about a yard in height; it's so equally poys'd, that a man may shake it with one finger, so that five or six men sitting on it, shall perceive themselves mov'd thereby. But I am inform'd, that since this worthy Gentleman writ the History of this Country, (viz. in the late Civil wars) some of the Rebel-souldiers looking upon it as a thing much noted, and therefore superstitious; did with some difficulty so alter its position, as to render it al∣most immoveable. There is also a Rocking-stone in Ireland in the County of Dunegall, and Parish of Clunmany, no less remarkable than this, call'd by the vulgar Magarl Fhin mhic Cuill, which is describ'd to be of a vast bigness, and somewhat of a pyramidal form, placed on a flat stone, the small end down∣ward, but whether by accident or human industry, I must leave to further enquiry.

In the Church-yard at Nevern* 1.48 on the North-side, I observ'd a rude stone pitch'd on end, about two yards in height, of a triquetrous form, with another smaller angle; having on the South-side this Inscrip∣tion, which seems older than the foundation of the Church, and was perhaps the Epitaph of a Roman Souldier: for I guess it must be read Vitelliani Eme∣riti.

[illustration] inscription

In the same Church-yard, on the South-side, is erected a very handsom pillar, as the shaft or pede∣stal of a Cross. It is of a quadrangular form, about two foot broad, eighteen inches thick, and thirteen foot high; neatly carv'd on all sides with certain endless knots, which are about one and thirty in

number, and all different sorts. The top is cover'd with a cross stone, below which there is a Cross carv'd on the East and West sides, and about the midst these Letters:

[illustration] inscription

which perhaps are no other than the initial letters of the names of those persons that erected this Cross. But whatever they may signifie, the second character is such as I have not met with elsewhere, and there∣fore thought worth the publishing.

There is also an Inscription within this Church, which to me is equally obscure, and seems more like Greek than Roman Characters; whereof the follow∣ing Copy was sent me by Mr. William Gambold of Exeter-College, Oxon, who, I presume, hath transcrib'd it with due exactness.

[illustration] inscription

The stone is pitch'd on end, not two foot high, and is round at top (about which these Letters are cut) like the Monument describ'd at Mynydh Gelhi Onnen in Glamorganshire.

I received also from the same hand the following Inscription, copied from a Stone amongst the ruins of the Abbey of St. Dogmael; which he describes to be seven foot in length, two in breadth, and six inches thick.

[illustration] inscription

The latter of these words [Cunotami] I take to be a British name, and the same with what we call Kynèd∣ha or Kynèdhav; but the former is a name I cannot parallel with any now us'd, or extant in our Genea∣logical Manuscripts. In this County there are di∣vers ancient Tumuli, or artificial Mounts for Urn∣burial, whereof the most notable I have seen, are those four call'd Krìgeu Kèmaes, or the Barrows of Kemaes. One of which, a Gentleman of the neigh∣bourhood* 1.49, out of curiosity, and for the satisfaction of some f••iends, caus'd lately to be dug; and disco∣ver'd therein five Urns, which contain'd a considera∣ble quantity of burnt bones and ashes. One of these, together with the bones and ashes it contain'd, was lately presented to the Ashmolean Repository at Oxford, by the worshipful John Philips of Dôl Haidh, Esquire. I shall not pretend to determine what Nation these Barrows did belong to; tho' from the rudeness of the Urns, as well in respect of matter as fashion, some might suspect them rather Barbarous than Roman. But we know not how unskilful some Artists amongst the Romans might be, especially in these remote parts of the Province, where probably not many of them, besides military persons, ever settled. Ano∣ther Urn was found not many years since, in a Barrow in the Parish of Melineu, and one very lately on a Mountain not far from Kil Rhedyn.

But seeing our Author confines himself not always to Antiquities and Civil History, but sometimes for the Reader's diversion, takes notice likewise of such occurrences in Natural History, as seem'd more espe∣cially remarkable; I hope it may be excusable if I add also some observations in that kind: and shall there∣fore communicate part of a Letter from my ingenious Friend, the Reverend Mr. Nicholas Roberts A. M. Re∣ctor of Lhan Dhewi Velfrey, which contains an ac∣count of some migratory Sea-birds that breed in the Isle of Ramsey, with some other relations that seem remarkable.

Over against Justinian's Chapel, separated from it by a narrow Fretum, is Ramsey-Island,* 1.50 (call'd formerly Ynis Devanog from a Chapel•• there dedicated to that Saint, now swallow'd up by the sea) which seems by the proverb [Stinan a Devanog dau anwyl gymydog] to have been once part of the Continent, if I may properly call our Country so, when I speak of such small Insulets. In it there is a small promontory or neck of land, issuing into the sea, which is call'd Ynis yr hyrdhod* 1.51, whence I presume the name of Ramsey. To this Island, and some rocks adjoyning, call d by the sea-men The Bishop and his Clerks, do yearly resort about the beginning of April such a number of birds of several sorts, that none but such as have been eye-witnesses can be prevail'd upon to believe it; all which after breeding here, leave us before August. They come to these rocks, and also leave them, constantly in the night-time: for in the evening the rocks shall be co∣ver'd with them, and the next morning not a bird to be seen; so in the evening not a bird shall appear, and the next morning the rocks shall be full. They also visit us com∣monly about Christmas, and stay a week or more, and then take their leave till breeding-time. Three sorts of these migratory birds are call'd in Welsh, Mora, Poeth-wy, and Pâl; in English, Eligug, Razorbil, and Puffin; to which we may also add the Harry-bird; tho' I cannot at present assure you, whether this bird comes and goes off with the rest.

The† 1.52 Eligug lays but one egg; which (as well as those of the Puffin and Razorbil) is as big as a Duck's, but longer, and smaller at one end. From this egg she ne∣ver parts (unless forced) till she hatches it, nor then till the young one be able to follow her; being all the while fed by the male. This and the Razorbil‖ 1.53 breed upon the bare rocks, making no manner of nest; and sometimes in such a place, that being frighten'd thence, the egg or young one (which before was upheld by the breast, upon a narrow shelving rock) tumbles into the sea. The Puffin* 1.54 and Harry-bird† 1.55 breed in holes, either those of Rabbets (wherewith Ramsey is abundantly furnish'd, all black) or such as they dig with their beaks. The Harry-birds are never seen on land but when taken; and the manner of taking these and the Puffins, is commonly by planting nets before their berries, wherein they soon entangle themselves. These four sorts cannot raise themselves upon the wing, from the land; but if at any distance from the cliffs, wadle (for they cannot be well said to go, their legs being too infirm for that use, and placed much more backward than a Duck's, so that they seem to stand upright) to some precipice, and thence cast themselves off, and take wing: but from the water they will raise to any height. The Puffin lays three white eggs; the rest but one, speckled, &c.

He adds much more, not only of the other birds that frequent these Rocks, but also gives a short ac∣count of several things remarkable in this County; but being confined within narrow limits, I shall on∣ly select two of them. The first is of a narrow deep pond, or rather pit, near the sea-side; and some Cliffs which by their noise presage storms, &c. whereof he gives the following relation.

Near Stack-pool Bosher, otherwise Bosherston, upon the sea-side, is a pool or pit call'd Bosherston-mear; the depth whereof, several that have sounded have not yet dis∣cover'd. This pit bubbles and foams, and makes such a noise before stormy weather, that it's heard above ten miles off. The banks are of no great circumference at the top, but broader downwards; and from the bottom, there's a great breach towards the sea, which is about a furlong distant. So that considering the bubling, and extraordina∣ry noise this pit makes against stormy weather, I am apt to suspect it may have a subterraneous communication with the sea-water. But there's much more talk'd of this place than I shall trouble you with at present, because I take s••me relations of it for fabulous; and living remote from it my self, I have had no opportunities of being satisfied of the truth of others. It's noise is distinctly known from that of the sea; which also on these coasts often roars very loud. And the neighbouring inhabitants to the sea can give a shrewd guess what weather will ensue by the noise it makes. For when it proceeds from such a Creek or Ha∣ven, they will expect this or that sort of weather will fol∣low. And by these Observations, I have been told the

evening before, what weather we should have next day; which has happen'd very true; and that not once as by chance, but often.

The other is a sort of Food, made in several parts of this County, of a sea-plant, which by the descri∣ption I hear of it, I take to be the Oyster-green or Sea-liverwort. This custom I find obtains also in Glamorganshire (where 'tis call'd Laverbread) and probably in several Counties of England.

Near St. David's (says he) especially at Eglwys Aber∣non, and in other places, they gather in the spring-time a kind of Alga or sea-weed, wherewith they make a sort of food call'd Lhavan or Lhawvan, in English Black but∣ter. Having gather'd the weed, they wash it clean from sand and slime, and sweat it between two tile-stones; then shred it small, and knead it well, as they do dough for bread, and make it up into great balls or rolls, which some eat raw, and others fryed with oatmeal and butter. It's ac∣counted sovereign against all distempers of the liver and spleen: and the late Dr. Owen assured me, that he found relief from it in the acutest fits of the stone.

Upon the death of William Herbert,* 1.56 the last Earl mention'd by our Author, the honour of Earl of Pembroke descended to Philip Herbert, who was also Earl of Montgomery, and was succeeded by Philip his son. After whose death, William his son and heir succeeded; and upon his death, Philip Herbert, half-brother to the last William. At present, Thomas of the same name enjoys the titles of Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery.

Notes

• * 1.1

  ••en••••gh.
• 1 1.2

  Well govern'd by a Mayor, and strongly wall'd toward the Land.
• * 1.3

  〈…〉〈…〉.
• * 1.4

  ••••••fo••d-••••••en.
• 2 1.5

  In the most pleasant Country of all Wales, standeth Penbroke the Shire-town, one direct street upon a long narrow point all rock. and a forked arm of Milford-haven ebbing and flowing close to the Town-walls on both sides. It hath a Castle, but now ruinate; and two Parish Churches within the walls, and is incorporate of a Mayor, Bailiffs, and Burgesses. But hear Gi∣raldus, &c.
• * 1.6

  ••••••br••ke.
• * 1.7

  Origin of the Giralds in Ireland.
• * 1.8

  Rotulus Servitio∣rum.
• * 1.9

  Carew-castle.
• * 1.10

  Cledheu.
• * 1.11

  Flemings when seat∣ed in Wales.
• * 1.12

  Little Eng∣land be¦yond Wales.
• * 1.13

  Haverford-west.
• 3 1.14

  Situate upon an hill side, having s••arce one even street, but is steep one way or other.
• * 1.15

  Octopita∣rum.
• * 1.16

  St. David'-land.
• * 1.17

  St. Patrick.
• * 1.18

  St. David's
• 4 1.19

  Twenty two.
• 5 1.20

  Whereupon they call it, The Close.
• * 1.21

  Tru••i•••••• St••n•••• trees 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sea.
• * 1.22

  Falcons
• * 1.23

  B•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 K•••••••• F••••••••.
• * 1.24

  Ne••p••••••.
• * 1.25

  At the foot of a high mountain.
• 6 1.26

  And in Latin Records, Novus Burgus.
• * 1.27

  St. Dog¦mael, b•••••• St. Teg••••••
• 7 1.28

  According to the Order of Tours.
• * 1.29

  Lords ••f Kema••••. The fa•• i•• of the M••••∣tin••.
• * 1.30

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 Garan.
• * 1.31

  ••••e Sal∣•••••• ••eap.
• * 1.32

  ••••rls of ••••nbr••ke.
• 8 1.33

  Who enjoy'd this honour but a few days.
• 9 1.34

  Eldest.
• 10 1.35

  Lord of Weishford, and &c.
• 11 1.36

  By Sir John St. John casually.
• 12 1.37

  Not long after, Hum∣frey, son to K. Hen. 4. before he was Duke of Glocester, receiv'd this title of his brother K. Hen. 5. and before his death K. Hen. 6. granted the same in reversion (a thing not before heard of) to William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk; after whose downfall, the said King, when he had enabl'd Edmund of Hadham and Jasper of Hatfield, the sons of Queen Catharine his mother, to be his lawful half-brethren, created Jasper Earl of Penbroke and Ed∣mund Earl of Richmond with pre-eminence to take place above all Earls. For Kings have absolute authority in dispensing honours.
• 13 1.38

  Sir William Herbert, for his good service against Jasper in Wales.
• 14 1.39

  With a Mantle and Coronet, in regard both of her Nobility and also her Vertues (for so ran the words of the Patent.)
• 15 1.40

  Sir William.
• * 1.41

  Origin of the Her∣berts.
• ‖ 1.42

  Amasiam.
• * 1.43

  p. 277.
• * 1.44

  Y G••••m∣lech
• * 1.45

  O Fla••e••∣ty's Ogy∣gia, p. 1•• &c.
• * 1.46

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 A••∣•••• ••f Ea∣•••••• Pierce ••ile∣•••• E••q.
• * 1.47

  Y maen Sigl.
• * 1.48

  Nevern.
• * 1.49

  Mr. Lloyd of Kwm Gloin.
• * 1.50

  Ramsey-I••••an••
• * 1.51

  Id e••t, Ra•••• I••••••••.
• † 1.52

  Le•••• H•••••• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Epi t 〈◊〉〈◊〉 C••u•••••• In Co•••• 'tis 〈◊〉〈◊〉 K•••••••• an•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Yo•••••••• a S•••••• Wil••••••∣by's O••••∣th••log•• pag. 32
• ‖ 1.53

  A••k•• Hoier•• Epist. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Clu•••••• Mu••••e 〈◊〉〈◊〉 nui•••••• W•••• p
• * 1.54

  Anas ••tica 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Frat•••••• Ge•••••••• W••. p
• † 1.55

  The Shear-••••∣ter of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Th B•••• Wil. p. Tab. 〈◊〉〈◊〉
• * 1.56

  Earls con∣tinued.