Propraetor) the Abbots erected several pious and cha∣ritable foundations; as a little Nunnery at Sopwell, and St. Julian's Hospital for Lepers; and another na∣med St. Mary de Pree for infirm women. Near which they had a great Manour named Goram∣bery, where Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England, hath erected a structure be∣coming his character. Near to this place lyeth Red∣borne, which in modern language signifieth a Red-water. And yet the water that runneth by this place is no more red, than that of the Red-Sea. It was a place in old time very famous for the Reliques which were there found of Amphibalus the Martyr, who was the person that first instructed St. Alban in the Christian Faith; for which faith he also suffer'd under Dioclesian. At present it is most remarkable for the old military high-way, commonly calld Wat∣lingstreet, upon which it is seated; and also for a cer∣tain brook near it, call'd Wenmer, which (as the vulgar believe) when ever it breaks out and swells higher than usual, always portends dearth or trou∣blesome times [n]. Near unto this, we have reason to look for Duro-co-brivae, a station of which Antoni∣nus makes mention, though indeed the distance would perswade us otherwise. For Redborne in our lan∣guage, and Dur-coh in the British or Welch tongue, sig∣nifie one and the same thing, to wit Red water. Now to search after the situation of ancient places, we have no better guides than ancient Inscriptions, the course of the great roads, the reason and similitude of names, and rivers or lakes adjoyning; although they do not exactly correspond to the several distances that are assign'd in the Itinerarie; which may very well be since corrupted, and the passage from one place to ano∣ther cut shorter. Certainly the old Duro-co-brivae must needs have been seated in the same place where that Roman high-way crossed this water, to wit, below Flamsted. For just at this place, at seven miles di∣stance from Verulamium, (though now through the negligence of transcribers the number is chang'd to twelve,) a good large spring riseth at the road-side, and crosseth it with a small stream; which though here it have no name, yet below St. Albans it is call'd Col. And as to that termination Briva, which is an adjunct to the names of very many places, it signi∣fied (as I suppose) among the ancient Britains and Gauls a Bridge, or the passage over a River; since we find it no where us'd but at rivers. In this Island there were one or two Durobrivae, that is (unless I am much deceiv'd) passages over the water. In Gaul there was Briva Isariae, now Pontoise, where was the passage over the Isara or Ysore: Briva Oderae, over the Odera: and Samarobriva (for that is the right name) over the river Soain.
Somewhat higher, upon a small hill, standeth Flamsted, which in the time of Edward the Confessor, Leofstan Abbot of St. Albans gave to three Knights, Turnot, Waldef, and Turman, upon condition that they should secure the neighbouring country from robberies. But William the Conquerour took it from them, and gave it Roger de Todeney or Tony, an emi∣nent Norman, with the title of Barony. But in time it was by a daughter transferr'd to the Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick.
Hence I passed southwards to Hemsted, a small Market-town, call'd Hehan-hamsted, when King Offa made a grant of it to the Monastery of St. Albans. It is seated among hills by the side of a small river, which a little lower runs into another that goes through Berkhamsted. In this place the Nobles of England had a meeting, when by the perswasion of Fretheric then Abbot of St. Albans, they were plot∣ting to throw off the new Norman Government;
And thither came William the Conqueror in person, (as we read in the life of this Fretheric) much con∣cern'd for fear he should, to his great disgrace, lose that Kingdom which with so much blood he had purchas'd. And after many debates in the presence of Lanfranc the Archbishop, the King to settle a firm peace, took an Oath upon all the Reliques of the Church of St. Alban, and upon the holy Evan∣gelists, which the Abbot Fretheric administred, That he would inviolably observe all the good, approv'd, and ancient Laws of the Kingdom, which the most sacred and pious Kings of England his Predecessors, and especially King Edward, had established
. But most of these Noblemens estates he soon after seized and confiscated, and bestowed this town upon Ro∣bert Earl of Moriton and Cornwal, who accord∣ing to the common tradition, built here a Castle with a rampart and a double ditch to it. In which Castle Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwal dy'd full of years, and honours. Upon default of issue of that Earl, King Edward the third gave this town and castle to
Edward his eldest son, that most renown'd and warlike Prince, whom he created Duke of Cornwal; from whence, even in our times, it continues to be part of the possessions of the Dutchy of Cornwal. This castle is now nothing else but ruin'd walls, and one rude heap of stones; above which upon a small hill Sir
Edward Cary Kt. Master of the Jewels to the King, descended from the house of the
Carys in Devonshire, hath lately built a very noble and extraordinary pleasant Seat. Within the town it self there is nothing worth seeing, except a School founded there by
J. Incent, Dean of St. Pauls in London, who was a native of this town. More to the South lyeth
Kings-Langley, heretofore a Seat of the Kings, where Edmund of Langley, son to Edward the third, Duke of York, was born, and thence also named. Here was a small Cell of Friers Praedicants, in which that unhappy Prince Richard the second was first buried, who was barbarously de∣priv'd both of his Kingdom and his Life; but not long after, his body was remov'd to Westminster, and had a monument of brass bestow'd upon it, to make amends for his Kingdom. Just almost over-against this, there lyeth also another
Langley, which (because it did belong to the Abbots of St.
Albans) is call'd
Abbots-Langley, the place where
Nicholas Breakspeare was born, afterwards Pope by the name of
Hadrian the fourth, who first preach'd the Christi∣an faith to the people of Norway, and quieted the tumults of the people of Rome, at that time endea∣vouring to recover their ancient liberties.
Frederic the first, Emperour of the Romans, held this Pope's stirrup as he alighted from his horse, and at last he lost his life by a fly that flew into his mouth and choaked him.
Lower I saw Watford and Rickemanesworth, two Market-towns, touching which we have no account, until we find that King Offa bestowed them upon St. Alban, as also he did Caishobery that lyes next to Watford. At which place a house was begun by Sir Richard Morison, a man of great learning, and em∣ployed by Henry the 8th and Edward the 6th in se∣veral Embassies to the greatest Princes in Europe; but he left it to his son Charles to finish, who made it a neat and curious Seat.
More toward the east, the Roman military way pass'd in a direct line from London to Verulam over Hamsted-heath, and so by Edgworth and Ellestre, near which place, at the very same distance that Antoninus in his Itinerary placeth the Sulloniacae (to wit, twelve miles from London and nine from Verulam) there remain yet some marks of an ancient station, and there is much rubbish digg'd up upon a hill, which is now call'd Brockley-hill [o]. But when the Roman Empire in this land expir'd, and barbarism by de∣grees got ground, whilst the Saxon wars put all things in a perpetual hurry, this great road, as all other things, lay quite neglected for a long time, until a a little before the Norman Conquest, Leofstan Ab∣bot of St. Albans repaired and restor'd it. For he (as we read in his life) caused the great woods all along from the edge of the Chiltern as far as London to be cut down, especially upon the King's high-way, commonly call'd Wat∣lingstreet, all high and broken grounds to be levell'd, bridges to be built, and the ways made even for the conve∣nience of passengers. But above 300 years ago this road