of Robert Chandois, where there is a Quarry of excellent Marble) cuts through the middle of the valley, which the Britains from the river call Diffrin Dore; but the English, that they might seem to express the force of that word, have term'd it The Golden Vale. Which name it may well be thought to deserve, for its golden, rich, and pleasant fertility. For the hills that encompass it on both sides, are clothed with woods, under the woods lye corn-fields on each hand, and under those fields lovely and gal∣lant meadows. In the middle between them glides a clear and crystal river, on which Robert Earl of Ewias erected a fine Monastery, wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were buried.
Part of this County, which bends towards the East, now call'd Irchenfeld, in Domesday Archenfeld, was (as Historians write) laid waste with fire and sword by the Danes in the year 715; Camalac, a British Bishop, being then carried away captive. Herein, once stood Kilpec a noted castle, the seat of the noble family of the Kilpec's, who, as some report, were Champions to the Kings of England, in the beginning of the Normans; which I am very willing to believe. In the reign of Edward the first, Robert Wallerond liv'd here, whose nephew Alane Plugenet was honourd with the title of a Baron. In this Archenfeld likewise, as we read in Domesday-book, certain Revenues by an old custom were assigned to one or two Priests, on this condition, that they should go in Embassies for the Kings of England into Wales; and to use the words of the said Book, The men of Archenfeld, when∣ever the Army marches forward against the Enemy, by cu∣stom make the Avauntward, and in the return homeward, the Rereward.
As the Munow runs along the lower p••rt of this County, so the Wye with a winding course cuts it in the middle: upon which, in the Western bounds, stands Clifford-castle, which William Fitz-Osborn Earl of Hereford built upon his own Waste (these are the very words of Domesday-book) but Ralph de Todeny held it. It is suppos'd that it came afterwards to Walter the son of Richard Punt a Norman, for his sirname was de Clifford, and from him the illustrious family of the Cliffords, Earls of Cumberland, are originally descended. But in King Edward the first's time, John Giffard held it, who married the heir of Walter Clifford. Thence the Wye, with a crooked and winding stream rolls by Whitney, which has gi∣ven name to a noted family; next by Bradwardin-Castle, that gave both original and name to the fa∣mous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury, who for the great variety of his studies, and his ad∣mirable proficiency in the most abstruse and hidden parts of learning, was in that age honour'd with the title of Doctor profundus. At length it comes to He∣reford, the Metropolis of this County [b].
How far that little Tract Arcenfeld reach'd, I know not; but the affinity between these names, Ereinuc, Arcenfeld, the town Ariconium mention'd by Antonine in these parts, and Hareford or Hereford, the present Metropolis of this Shire; have by little and little in∣duc'd me to this opinion, that they are every one deriv'd from Ariconium. And yet I do not believe that Ariconium and Hereford were the same; but as Basle in Germany has challeng'd the name of Augusta Rauracorum, and Baldach in Assyria that of Babylon, (because, as this had its original from the ruins of Babylon, so that had its birth from those of Augusta;) so our Hariford (for thus the common people call it) had its name and beginning from its neighbour Ari∣conium, as I am of opinion; which at this day has no clear marks of a town, having been destroyed, as 'tis reported, by an Earthquake. Only it still retains a slight shadow of the name, being call'd Kenchester, and shews some ruins of old Walls call'd Kenchester Walls, about which are often dug up stones of inlaid Checquer-work, British bricks, Roman coyns, &c. [c] But Hareford her daughter, which carries more ex∣press remains of the name [d], stands eastward scarce three Italian miles from it, amongst meadows ex∣tremely pleasant, and corn-fields very fruitful; en∣compass'd almost round about with rivers; by an anonymous one on the north and west sides, on the south by the Wye, which hastens hither out of Wales. It is supposed to have first sprung up when the Saxon Heptarchy was in its glory; founded, as some write, by Edward the ••lder: and indeed there is no mention of it more ancient. For the Britains, before the name of Hereford was known, called the place Trefawith, from Beech-trees; and Henford, from an Old way: and the Saxons themselves Fern-leg, of Fern. It owes, if I mistake not, it's greatest encrease and growth to Religion, and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert, a King of the East-Angles; who (whilst in person he courted the daughter of Offa King of the Mercians) was villanously way-laid and mur∣murder'd by Quendreda, Offa's wife, who longed more for the Kingdom of the East-Angles, than to have her daughter honestly and honourably married. He was hereupon registred in the Catalogue of Mar∣tyrs, and had a Church here built and dedicated to him by Milfrid a petty King of the Country; which being soon after adorn'd with a Bishop's See, grew very rich, first by the liberality of the Mercian, af∣terwards of the West-Saxon Kings. For they at length were possessed of this City, as may be gather∣ed from William of Malmesbury, where he writes, that Athelstan the West-Saxon forc'd the Princes of Wales in this City to comply with such hard condi∣tions, as to pay him tribute (besides hounds and hawks) 20 pound weight of gold, and 300 pound of silver every year. This city, as far as I have observ'd by reading, had never any misfortune, unless it were in the year of our Lord 1055. when Gryffin Prince of South-Wales, and Algar an Englishman, rebelling against Edward the Confessor, after they had routed Earl Ralph, sacked the City, destroy'd the Cathe∣dral, and carried away captive Leofgar the Bishop. But Harold, having soon quieted their bold rebellion, fortified it, as Floriacensis informs us, with a broad and high Rampire. Upon this account it is that Malmesbury writes thus; Hereford is no great City, and yet by the high and formidable ruins of its steep and broken Bulwarks, it shews it has been some great thing: and as it appears by Domesday book, there were in all but 103 men within and without the walls. The Normans afterwards built a very large and strong Castle (on the east-side of the Cathedral, along the river Wye) the work, as some report, of Earl Miles; but now ruin'd by time, and falling to decay [e]. Afterwards they wall'd the City about. In the reign of King Hen. 1. was founded by Bishop Reinelm that beautiful Church now to be seen, which his successors enlar∣ged by adding to it a neat College, and fine houses for the Prebendaries. For besides the Bishop, (who has 302 Churches in his Diocese) there are in this Church, a Dean, two Archdeacons, a Praecentor, a Chancellour, a Treasurer, and 28 Prebendaries. I saw in it scarce any monuments besides those of the Bishops: and I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop, a person nobly born, had here a stately and magnificent tomb; who being canonized for his ho∣liness, wanted little of out-shining the Royal Martyr Ethelbert: so great was the opinion of his piety and devotion [f]. According to Geographers, the Longitude of this City is 20 degrees, 24 minutes. Lat. 52 degrees, 6 min. [g].
The Wye has scarce gone three miles from this City, when he intercepts the river Lug; which having run with a rapid stream down from Radnor-Hills, with a still course glides through this Province from the north-west to the south-east [h]. At the first entrance, it has a distant prospect of Brampton Brian, a Castle which a famous family (hence sirnam'd de Brampton, whose christian name was usually Brian) held by a continual succession to the time of King Edward 1. then by female-heirs it came to R. Harley. But it has a nearer view of Wigmore, in Saxon Wyn∣ginga-mere, repair'd in ancient times by King Edw. the elder, afterwards fortify'd with a Castle by Wil∣liam Earl of Hereford, in the wast of a ground (for so it is in Domesday book) which was called Marestun,