Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

ADDITIONS to SƲTH-REY.

THE most considerable piece of Antiquity this County affords us, is the famous Ro∣man way call'd Stone-street, visible in seve∣ral parts of it. It goes through Darking-Church yard; as they plainly find by digging the graves; and between that place and Stansted it is dis∣cover'd upon the hills by making of ditches. After∣wards in Okeley-parish (which in winter is extream∣ly wet) it is very plainly trac'd. Had not the civil wars prevented, we might before this time have had a more distinct account of it: for Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, had made some attempts towards the exact discovery of its remains, tracing it from Arundel through all the deep country of Sussex; but the wars coming on, hinder'd his further progress.

* 1.1[a] To go along with our Author; the river Wye, which the Thames receives, brings in great profits to that part of the County; being made navigable by the industry (among others) of that worthy Knight Sir Richard Weston late of Sutton-place; to whom the whole Shire is oblig'd as for this, so for several other improvements, particularly Clover and Saintfoine.

* 1.2[b] This river passes by Guildford, (famous here∣tofore for clothing and Clothiers) which has given the Church of England since the Reformation two famous Prelates, George and Robert Abbot: the one Archbishop of Canterbury, who founded here a very fine Hospital, and lies bury'd in Trinity-Church; the other, that learned Bishop of Salisbury, his bro∣ther. They were both sons of a Clothier; and had a brother Sir Maurice Abbot, who was Lord Mayor of London, at the same time when they were Bishops. Upon which trade this observation has been made, That several of the most eminent families among the Nobility in this nation have had their rise from it. Here is a curious Free-school founded by King Ed∣ward 6; to which (as also to Baliol-College in Ox∣ford) one Hammond was a great Benefactor. This place has given the title of Countess to Elizabeth Vis∣countess of Keynelmeaky in Ireland, and that of Earl to John Maitland, Duke and Earl of Lauderdale.

Near Guildford, upon the river Wye, is the Friery, the seat of Daniel Colwall Esquire, adjoyning to which is a delightful Park.

* 1.3Something nearer the Thames is Staughton, the seat of a family of that name, whose Pedigree is probably as ancient as any in this County. But it is now at last out of that line, by the death of the late Sir Lawrence Staughton, Baronet, a young Gentleman of great hopes.

About 2 miles eastward from Guildford is Clandon-place,* 1.4 the seat of the honourable Sir Richard Onslow Ba∣ronet, descended from Onslow of Onslow-hall in Shrop∣shire, an ancient Gentleman's family. Their first set∣tlement in this County was at Knowle in Crandley; thence they removed to Clandon-place, being plea∣santly situate on the edge of Clandon downe; from whence is a goodly prospect into ten several Coun∣ties. 'Tis well shaded with wood, and supply'd with good water, and is daily improv'd by the present possessor.

Not far from hence is Pirford,* 1.5 situate on the river Wye, enclos'd with a pleasant Park well wooded, to which belongs large Royalties, Fish-ponds, and a de∣lightful Decoy; now the seat of Denzell Onslow Esq the youngest son of Sir Richard Onslow late of Clandon-place.

[c] About the entring of this river into the Thames, is Otelands,* 1.6 which was (as our Author observes) a royal village, or a retiring place for the Kings; but now is so decay'd, that it hardly bears the figure of a good Farmhouse; being demolish'd in the late Civil Wars.

Not far from hence, upon the Thames, is Walton† 1.7,* 1.8 in which Parish is a great Camp of about 12 Acres, single work, and oblong. There is a road lies thro' it, and 'tis not improbable that Walton takes its name from this remarkable Vallum.

[d] Our next river is Mole; at some distance from which, to the south, lies Okeley,* 1.9 where is a certain custom observ'd time out of mind, of planting Rose-trees upon the graves, especially of the young men and maids, who have lost their lovers; so that this Churchyard is now full of them. 'Tis the more re∣markable, because we may observe it anciently us'd both among the Greeks and Romans; who were so very religious in it, that we find it often annex'd as a Codicil to their Wills, (as appears by an old Inscri∣ption at Ravenna, and another at Milan,) by which they order'd Roses to be yearly strew'd and planted upon their graves. Hence that of* 1.10 Propertius, Et te∣nerâ poneret ossa rosâ. And old Anacreon speaking of it, says, that it does 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, protect the dead.

Upon the edge of Sussex is Okewood,* 1.11 (all that part being formerly but one continu'd wood of Oaks,) where stands a desolate Chapel of Ease to five large

Parishes, three in Surrey, and two in Sussex, built by one Edward de la Hale, as appears by a monument of the pious Donor, who dy'd 1431. and lies here buried. The revenues that of right belong to it are above 200 l. per An. out of which there is not allowed above 20 Nobles to a man who now and then reads Prayers to them. It is so much the more deplorable, because the alienation long since appears to have been made through a mistake; for 'twas done in Q. Elizabeth's time by virtue of an Inquisition unjustly taken, upon pretence of its being a Chantry for the maintenance of a Mass priest to pray for the soul of the Founder. Whereas, really, it was built and endow'd for no other use but a Chapel of Ease only, to instruct the people of the adjoyning Parishes, at too great a distance from their own Parish-Churches. Near this place are certain Pitts, out of which Jett has been sometimes digg'd.

But to return towards the north; at the head of a river which runs into the Wye near Guildford, is Abin∣ger;* 1.12 near the Church yard whereof is a heap or mount cast up, which some imagine to have been a small fortress rais'd by the Danes or Saxons. But to cure that mistake, it's plain enough 'twas done by neither; but by the neighbouring people, whom the high grounds on which they live put under a ne∣cessity of contriving a pond to water their cattel; and this rubbish was thrown out of that place.

The foremention'd river rising out of a hill here∣abouts, runs to Albury,* 1.13 which (when but a mean stru∣cture) was yet the delight of that excellent person Thomas Earl of Arundel, a great lover of Antiquities; who purchasing this place of the Randylls, made it his darling. Henry his grandson, Duke of Norfolk, had no less affection for it: he began there a magnificent Pile, cut a Canal, planted spacious Gardens and Vine∣yards, adorn'd with Fountains, Grots, &c. But what is above all singular and remarkable, is, an Hypogaeum or Perforation made through a mighty hill, and large enough at one end for a coach to pass, being about a furlong or more in length, and so leads o'er into an agreeable and pleasant valley. It was at first intended for a way up to the house, but a rock at the south-end hinder'd that design. This noble seat is enclos'd with a park, and much improv'd by the honourable Heneage Finch Esq late Sollicitor-General, who having purchas'd it of the father of the present Duke of Nor∣folk, is daily adding to its beauty.

Nor is this place less celebrated for that famous Mathematician William Oughtred, who liv'd and dy'd Rector of this Parish.

At a little distance from hence is St. Martha's Cha∣pel,* 1.14 seated conspicuously on a copp'd mountain. This seems to have been thrown up by some fiery Eruption or Vulcano, as several other such Elevations towards the edge of Sussex confirm.

Beneath this hill is Chilworth, the seat of Morgan Randyl Esq owner of the most considerable Powder-works (brought first into England by George Evelyn Esq) and best Hop gardens in England.

Not far off is Tower-hill, the seat of Edward Bray Esq of a very ancient and honourable family.

[e] Returning to the Mole, we see Beechworth,* 1.15 the feat (as our Author observes) of the Browns. But now that name, after a long series of Knights, is at last extinguish'd in a daughter. 'Tis at the foot of the Castle here, that the river Mole, bending to the precipice of Box-hill, is swallow'd up.

Between Beechworth and Darking stands Deepden,* 1.16 the situation whereof is somewhat surprising, by rea∣son of the risings and uniform acclivities about it; which naturally resemble a Roman Amphitheatre, or rather indeed a Theatre: it is open at the north-end, and is of an oval form. Now it is most inge∣niously cast, and improv'd into gardens, vineyards, and other plantations, both on the Area below, and sides of the environing hills: with frequent grotts here and there beneath the terraces, leading to the top; from whence one has a fair prospect of that part of Surrey, and of Sussex, as far as the South-downs, for near 30 miles out-right. The honourable Charles Howard, Uncle to the present Duke of Norfolk, and Lord of half the mannour of Darking, is solely entitl'd to this ingenious contrivance.

Going along Holmesdale (which extends it self to the foot of that ledge of Mountains which stretch and link themselves from the utmost promontory of Kent to the Lands end,) we have on the right hand White-down,* 1.17 where is a vast Delf of chalk, which in summer time they carry with great labour as far as the mid∣dle of Sussex; as they bring of the same material from the opposite hills by the sea-coast of that County: and these two being mingl'd together, are burnt into lime for the enriching of their grounds. Here are likewise dug up cockle-shells, and other Lusus naturae, with pyrites, bedded an incredible depth within the bowels of the mountains, upon which many Yew-trees grow spontaneously, tho' of late they are much diminish'd, and their places taken up with corn.

Not far from the bottom of this hill, stands an anci∣ent seat of the Evelyns of Wotton,* 1.18 among several streams gliding thro' the meadows, adorn'd with gentle risings, and woods which as it were encompass it. And these, together with the gardens, fountains, and other hortu∣lane ornaments, have given it a place and name a∣mongst the most agreeable seats. It is at present (with many fair Lordships about it) the possession of that worthy and hospitable Gentleman, George Evelyn Esq who having serv'd in many Parliaments from 1641. is perhaps the most ancient member thereof now living.

In opening the ground of the Church-yard of Wot∣ton, to enlarge a Vault belonging to Mr. Evelyn's fami∣ly, they met with a skeleton which was 9 foot and 3 inches long, as the worthy Mr. John Evelyn had it at∣tested by an ancient and understanding man then pre∣sent and still living, (who accurately measur'd it, and mark'd the length on a pole,) with other workmen, who affirm the same. They found it lying in full length between two boards of the coffin; and so measur'd it before they had discompos'd the bones. But trying to take it out, it fell all to pieces; for which reason they flung it amongst the rest of the rubbish, after they had separately measur'd several of the more solid bones.

Hereabouts is a thing remarkable, tho' but little ta∣ken notice of; I mean, that goodly prospect from the top of Lith-hill, which from Wotton rises almost insen∣sibly for 2 or 3 miles south; but then has a declivity almost as far as Horsham in Sussex, 8 miles distant. From hence it is, one may see, in a clear day, the goodly Vale and consequently the whole County of Sussex, as far as the South-downs, and even beyond them to the sea; the entire County of Surrey, part of Hamshire, Barkshire, Ox∣fordshire, Buckinghamshire, and Hartfordshire; as also of Middlesex, Kent, and Essex: and farther yet (as is believ'd) into Wiltshire, &c. could one well distinguish 'em with∣out the aid of a Telescope. The whole circumference cannot be less than 200 miles, far exceeding that of the Keep at Windsor, over which (as also over the City of London 25 miles distant) one sees as far as the eye, un∣arm'd with the glass, is able to distinguish land from sky. The like, I think, is not to be found in any part of En∣gland, or perhaps Europe besides: and the reason why it is not more observ'd, is, partly its lying quite out of any road, and partly its rising so gently, and making so little show till one is got to the very top of it: from the side thereof a great part of the brow is slidden down into the grounds below, caus'd by a delf of stones dug out of the sides of the mountain; and the bare places (from whence the earth is parted) being of a reddish colour, plainly appear above 40 miles off.

But here we must not forget Darking,* 1.19 memorable for a very large Camp in that Parish, near Homebury-hill, and not far from the road between Darking and Arundel. It is double trench'd and deep, containing by estimation about 10 acres at least.

[f] Where the Mole comes from under ground,* 1.20 it spreads it self so very wide, as to require a bridge of a great many arches and a stately fabrick, partly of stone, and tyles laid flat upon one another.

[g] Not far from the place where this river en∣ters the Thames, is Kingston,* 1.21 * 1.22 east from which, up∣on a gravelly hill near the road, was a burying-place of the Romans. Here are often found Urns and pieces of Urns, which lye about two foot deep. One particularly was discover'd about 1670. of a kind of amber-colour, fill'd up half way with black ashes, and at the bottom something like

[illustration] map of Sussex

[illustration]

[illustration]

SUSSEX By Rob^t. Morden

coarse hair, as if it had been laid there before.

At a little distance from the Thames, we see Combe-Nevil,* 1.23 a seat of the Harveys, where have been found Medals and Coins of several of the Roman Emperors, especially of Dioclesian, the Maximinians, Maximus, Constantine the Great, &c.

[h] Not far from whence is None-such,* 1.24 so much magnify'd by our Author for it's curious structure; but now there's nothing of all this to be seen, scarce one stone being left upon another; which havock is owing to the late Civil Wars.

[i] To the north-east is Beddington,* 1.25 where not only the Orchards and Gardens in general (as our Author has observ'd,) but particularly its Orange-trees, deserve our mention. They have now been grow∣ing there more than a hundred years, and are plant∣ed in the open ground, under a moveable Covert during the winter-months. They were the first that were brought into England by a Knight of that no∣ble family; who deserves no less commendation than Lucullus met with for bringing cherry and filbert-trees out of Pontus into Italy: for which we find him celebrated by Pliny and others.

Next is Ashsted,* 1.26 where the honourable Sir Robert Howard (brother to the Earl of Barkshire) has en∣closed a fair new house within a park, laid out and planted the fields, pastures, and arables about it in such order and with so great improvements, as to make it vye with the most considerable dry seats in this County. There was near it, formerly, a mean deca••'d farm-house; yet for the wholsome air breath∣ing from the hills, it was often resorted to by Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, of whose grandson (fa∣ther of the present Duke of Norfolk) Sir Robert pur∣chas'd it.

At some distance from hence, is Woodcote,* 1.27 a plea∣sant seat among groves, much adorn'd by the widow Evelyn lately deceas'd; to which belong those me∣dicinal Wells,* 1.28 that rise in the adjoyning Common. They are tinctur'd with Allom, and of late years are in so much repute, as to occasion a very great in∣crease of buildings in the parish of Epsom for the re∣ception and entertainment of such as resort hither for the sake of the Spaws, with the diversion of the Downs hard by.

Near the Thames, and south of London, lyes Dull∣wich,* 1.29 where William Allen (sometime a famous Co∣median) in King James 1.'s time erected and en∣dow'd a pretty College and a fair Chapel for 6 poor men, and as many poor women; with a school for the education of 12 children. Here are also Medi∣cinal Springs call'd Sidnam-wells, as likewise there are at Streeteham, both of them frequented in their pro∣per seasons.

Northward from hence is South-wark,* 1.30 where is one thing of note; the Grant of S. Mary Overies Church to the Church-wardens and their Successors for ever, together with the Tithes, to provide two Chaplains at their pleasure, who are neither presented nor en∣dowed; and thus it differs from all other Churches in England.

Here lye bury'd the learned Bishop Andrews, and our famous English Poet Gower. A very ample and ancient palace with fair gardens, belonging to the Bishops of Winchester, is now converted into Te∣nements.

And here in the close, we must not omit the men∣tion of one who was a general Benefactor to the whole County. His name was Smith, once a Silver-smith in London, but did not follow that trade long. He afterwards went a begging for many years, and was commonly call'd Dog-Smith, because he had a Dog always follow'd him. When he dy'd, he left a very great Estate in the hands of Trustees upon a general account of Charity, and more particularly for Surrey. After they had made a considerable im∣provement of the estate, and purchas'd several Farms, they settl'd 50 l. per An. or thereabouts upon every market-town in Surrey, or gave 1000 l. in money. Upon every Parish, except one or two, they settl'd a yearly revenue; upon some 6 l. others 8. and up∣on the rest more or less, as they thought convenient. But this Charity was not limited to Surrey, but left to the Trustees to extend to other places of the kingdom, as they found occasion; and so the revenue is greater out of this County than what is paid in it.

Notes

• * 1.1

  ••ye.
• * 1.2

  ••eford or ••dford.
• * 1.3

  ••ghton.
• * 1.4

  Clandon.
• * 1.5

  Pirford.
• * 1.6

  Otelands.
• † 1.7

  Aubr. MS.
• * 1.8

  Walton.
• * 1.9

  Okeley.
• * 1.10

  L. 1. Eleg. 2.
• * 1.11

  Okewood.
• * 1.12

  Abinger.
• * 1.13

  Albury.
• * 1.14

  St. Martha's Chapel.
• * 1.15

  Beechworth
• * 1.16

  Deepden.
• * 1.17

  White-down.
• * 1.18

  Wotton.
• * 1.19

  Darking.
• * 1.20

  Mole ri••••
• * 1.21

  Kingston
• * 1.22

  Aubr Monum. Britan. 〈◊〉〈◊〉
• * 1.23

  Combe-Nevil.
• * 1.24

  None-such.
• * 1.25

  ••eddington
• * 1.26

  ••sh••ted.
• * 1.27

  ••oo••cote.
• * 1.28

  ••ps••m-••••••s.
• * 1.29

  ••ullwich.
• * 1.30

  ••uthwark.