Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

BARKSHIRE.

THAT County which we call Bark∣shire was term'd by the Latin writers Bercheria, and anciently by the Eng∣lish-Saxons Berrocscyre [a]. Which name Asserius* 1.1 Menevensis derives from Berroc a certain Wood where Box grew in great abundance; others from an Oak disbark'd, (so the word Beroke signifies) to which, when the State was in more than ordinary danger, the in∣habitants were wont in ancient times to resort, and consult about publick matters. The north-side of this County is wash'd by the winding, but pleasant and gentle streams of the Isis or Ouse, which a little after gets the name of Thamisis, the Thames, and first separates it from Oxfordshire, and afterwards from Buckinghamshire. The south-side, where it looks towards Hamshire, is water'd by the river Kenet, till it runs into the Thames. Westward, where it touch∣es upon Wiltshire, and is broadest, as likewise in its middle parts, it is rich in it self, and full of commo∣dities, yielding abundance of Corn, especially where it sinks into a Valley, which they call the Vale of White Horse, from I know not what shape of a White Horse, fancy'd on the side of a whitish chalky hill [b]. But the east-side, which borders upon Surrey, is downright barren, or at least bears very little, and is very much taken up with woods and forests.

* 1.2On the west-side, near the Ouse, stands Farendon, seated high; now noted for it's Market, but former∣ly for a certain Fortification built by Robert Earl of Glocester against K. Stephen,* 1.3 who nevertheless took it at the expence of much blood and labour, and laid it so level with the ground, that it is not now to be seen. But (as we find in the Chronicles of Waverley-Abbey) King John, in the year MCCII. mov'd by divine inspiration, granted the place wherein it was seated, with all it's appurtenances, to the building of an Abbey for the Cistercian Order.

* 1.4From hence the Ouse, fetching a great compass, and as it were with much strugling making it's way out towards the North, waters many villages of little note; till winding inwards again, and dividing it's stream, it arrives at Abbendon, a handsome town and well frequented, call'd first by the English-Saxons Sheovesham, then Abbandune, no doubt from the Abbey, rather than one Abbenus, I know not what Irish Hermit, as some have written. It was a place (as we have it in the old book of Abbendon) upon the plain of an hill, extreamly pleasant to the eye, a little beyond the village which is now call'd Suniggewelle, between two very fine rivulets, which enclosing within them the place it self (as it were a sort of bay) yield a de∣licate prospect to the beholders, and a convenient subsistence to the Inhabitants. It was in ancient times call'd Sheove∣sham, a famous City, goodly to behold, full of riches, en∣compass'd about with very fruitful fields, with green mea∣dows, spacious pastures, and flocks of cattel abounding with milk. Here the King kept his Court, hither the people re∣sorted to consult about the greatest and most weighty affairs of the kingdom [c]. But assoon as Cissa, King of the West-Saxons, had built the Abbey, it began by degrees to lay aside it's old name, and to be called Abbandun, and Abbington, that is, the Abbey's Town. This Abbey had not long flourish'd, ere it was thrown down, in an instant as it were, by the violent fury of the Danes. Yet it soon after recover'd it self thro' the liberality of King Edgar; and afterwards, by the industry of the Norman Abbots, grew to that mag∣nificence by degrees, as to stand in competition al∣most with any Abbey in Britaine for riches and great∣ness, as it's present ruines still declare. But the town tho' it had it's dependance for a long time on the Abbey, yet since the year 1416. when K. Henry 5.* 1.5 built Bridges over the Ouse (as appears by a distich in a window of S. Helen's Church there) and turned the high road hither for a short cut; it became so much frequented, as to be reckon'd amongst the prin∣cipal towns of this County; having a Mayor, and much enriching it self by steep'd barley sprouting and chitting again, which the Greeks call Byne, and we Mault.* 1.6 It hath besides, a Cross of excellent work∣manship in the middle of the Market-place, erected, as 'tis reported, in the reign of K. Henry 6. by the fraternity of St. Cross instituted by him.

As Cissa was the founder of this Abbey, so Cilla (as I have it out of an old book) King Cedwalla's sister, built a Nunnery at Helnestow near the Thames, where her self presided over the Virgins, who were after∣wards translated to Witham. In the heat of the war be∣tween Offa and Kinulph, the Nuns, upon the building of a castle there, retired from thence. For after that Kinulph was overthrown, whatsoever lay under his jurisdiction, from the town of Wallingford in the south part, from Iche∣nilde-streete as far as* 1.7 Essebury, and in the north part as far as the River Thames, King Offa seiz'd upon.

Near unto it, north-west, lies Lee, which by the daughter of a certain Knight sirnam'd de Lee, fell to the family of the Besiles,* 1.8 and thence came to be call'd Besiles-Lee; and from that family, in right of mar∣riage, to Richard Fetiplace; whose progenitor Thomas brought some honour to his posterity by matching with Beatrix a natural daughter of John 1. King of Portugal1 1.9, from whom they are descended. But now let us return. Hard by Abington, the little Ri∣ver Ock, which washes the south-side of the town, and over which Sir John St. Helens Knight, formerly

built a bridge, gently falls into the Ouse. It hath it's rise in the vale of White-horse, scarce a mile or two from Kingston-Lisle,* 1.10 anciently the possession of Wa∣rin de Insula or Lisle, a noble Baron. John Talbot, a younger son of that famous Warriour John Earl of Shrewsbury, being by the mother's side descended from that Baron, was first created Baron L'isle2 1.11 (as Warin de Insula was before, in regard of his being possess'd of this place, as if that honour were annext to it) and afterwards Viscount L'isle3 1.12. This title by the favour of our Kings hath in a continued se∣ries still flourish'd in his posterity. For (to sum up all in short) when Thomas Talbot (son of that John) dy'd issueless, being shot through the mouth with an arrow, as in a skirmish he was defending his estate against Baron Barkley; Edward Grey who had mar∣ry'd his sister, receiv'd the same honour from King Richard 3. and had a son nam'd John, whose only daughter and heir being an infant, was con∣tracted to Charles Brandon by King Henry 8. and thereupon he became Viscount L'isle: but she dying before the solemnization of the marriage, this his title dy'd with her. Afterwards the same King Henry conferr'd this honour upon Arthur Plantagenet, a natural son of King Edward 4. who had marry'd Elizabeth the sister of John Grey Viscount L'isle, Ed∣mund Dudley's widow. And upon his dying without issue-male, John Dudley son of Edmund Dudley by the same Elizabeth Grey, afterwards Duke of Northum∣berland4 1.13, was honour'd by the same King with this title. But he being attainted5 1.14, Queen Elizabeth re∣stor'd in blood his son Ambrose; and before she cre∣ated him Earl of Warwick, the same day made him Baron L'isle6 1.15; and Robert Sidney his sister's son, a person illustrious for his so noble descent, and his own virtues, was honour'd with the title of Viscount L'isle, 1605. by King James, who had before cre∣ated him Baron Sidney of Pensherst, and likewise made him Lord Chamberlain to his Royal Consort Queen Ann [d].

Thence this river Ock just now mention'd, runs be∣tween Pusey* 1.16 (still in the possession of a Family of that Sirname, and held by a Horn given to their an∣cestors by King Canutus the Dane [e]) and the two Denchworths hard by,* 1.17 where two noble and ancient Families have long flourish'd, Hide at South-Dench∣worth, and Fetiplace at North-Denchworth; both which may seem to have sprung from the same stock, considering they give the same Coat of Arms. After this, the Ock receives a nameless rivulet; which flows out of the same Vale about Wantage, call'd in Saxon Wanating, anciently a Royal Vill, and the birth-place of the famous King Alfred, which at his death he bequeath'd to Alfrith. It was made a market-town not long after, by the interest of that valiant Soldier Foulk Fitzwarin, upon whom Roger Bigod, Earl Mar∣shal of England, had bestow'd it, for his singular courage and great conduct in War; and it now owns for it's Lords the Bourchiers Earls of Bath, descended from the race of the Fitzwarins; of which family some are bury'd here [f].

The Ouse leaving Abington, presently receives the Tame out of Oxfordshire (of which river elsewhere) and now by a compound word being call'd Thamisis (the Thames,* 1.18) first makes a visit to Sinodun an high hill, defended with a deep ditch, where 'tis certain in ancient times there was a Roman fortification; for the ground being now broken up with the Plough, Roman Coins (a certain sign of antiquity) are now and then found by the Ploughmen.

* 1.19Beneath it, at Brettwell, there was a Castle (if it were not really upon this hill) which Henry 2.* 1.20 took by force, a little before his making peace with King Stephen. From hence the Thames bends it's course to the once chief City of the Attrebatii, call'd by Antoninus Galleva Attrebatum, by Ptolemy Galeva; but both of them through the carelesness of Copiers name it wrong, instead of Gallena;* 1.21 and these like∣wise in the Greek Copies obtrude upon us 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, by a transposition of the letters, for 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. For I have been of the opinion that it was so call d in the British tongue, as it were Guall hen, that is, the Old Fort. Which name being still kept, and Ford, from a shal∣low place in the river, added to it,a 1.22 the Saxons in an∣cient times call'd itb 1.23 Guallengaford and Wallenga∣ford, and we now-a-days by contraction Wallingford.* 1.24 In K. Edward the Confessor's time it was counted a Borough, and contain'd in it (as we find in Domes∣day book) 276* 1.25 houses, yielding 9 pound† 1.26 Tax; and those that dwelt there did the King service on horseback, or else by water. Of those houses eight were destroy'd for the Castle. It was formerly walled about, and, as may be seen by the tract, was ac 1.27 mile in compass; it hath a castle seated upon the river, very large, and so well fortify'd in former times, that the hopes of it's being impregnable hath made some persons over-resolute. For when the flames of Civil War, had, as it were, set all England on fire, we read that King Stephen ever now and then attempted it by siege, but still in vain. We much wonder'd at it's great∣ness and magnificence, when we were boys and re∣tir'd thither from Oxford, (for it is now a retiring place for the Students of Christ-Church at Oxford,) it being double wall'd, and surrounded withd 1.28 two ditches. In the middle stands a tower, rais'd upon a very high mount; in the steep ascent whereof, which you climb by stairs, I saw a well of an ex∣ceeding depth. The Inhabitants believe it was built by the Danes; but I should rather judge, that some∣thing was here erected by the Romans, and afterwards demolish'd by the Saxons and Danes, when Sueno the Dane harrass'd the Country up and down in these parts. At length it recover'd it self under William 1. as plainly appears by Domesday Book, where it makes mention of eight‖ 1.29 Houses being pull'd down for the Castle, as I observ'd but now. Yet William Gemeticensis takes no notice of this Castle, when he writes, that William the Norman, after Ha∣rold's defeat, immediately led his army to this city (for so he terms it,) and passing the Thames at the ford, encamp'd here, before he march'd to London.* 1.30 At which time Wigod an English∣man was Lord of Wallingford, who had one on∣ly daughter given in marriage to Robert D'Oily, by whom he had Maud his sole heir, married first to Miles Crispin, and after his death by the favour of K. Henry 1. to Brient† 1.31 Fitz-Count; and he being bred a soldier, and taking part with Maud the Em∣press, stoutly defended the Castle against King Ste∣phen, (who had rais'd a Fort over against it at Crau∣mesh) till the peace, so much wish'd for by England in general, was concluded in this place, and that ter∣rible quarrel between King Stephen and K. Henry 2. was ended. And then the love of God did so pre∣vail upon Brient and his wife, that quitting the tran∣sitory vanities of this world, they wholly devoted themselves to Christ; by which means this Honour of Wallingford fell to the Crown. Which appears by these words taken out of an old Inquisition in the Exchequer, To his well beloved Lords,* 1.32 our Lord the King's Justices and the Barons of the Exchequer, the Con∣stable of Wallingford, Greeting. Know ye that I have made diligent Inquisition by the Knights of my Bailywick, in pursuance of my Lord the King's precept directed to me by the Sheriff; and this is the summe of the inquisition thus taken: Wigod of Wallingford held the honour of Wal∣lingford in K. Harold's time, and afterwards in the reign of K. William 1. and had by his Wife a certain Daughter, whom he gave in marriage to Robert D'Oily. This Ro∣bert had by her a Daughter named Maud, which was his heir. Miles Crispin espous'd her, and had with her the aforesaid honour of Wallingford. After Miles's decease, our Lord K. Henry 1. bestow'd the aforesaid Maud upon Brient Fitz-Count, &c. Yet afterwards, in the reign

of Henry 3. it belong'd to the Earls of Chester, and then to Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwall, who repaired it; and to his son Edmond, who founded a Collegiate Chapel within the inner Court: but he dying issueless, it fell again to the Crown, and was annexed to the Dukedom of Corn∣wall, since when it hath fallen much to decay. More especially about the time when that plague and mor∣tality which follow'd the conjunction of Saturn and Mars in Capricorn,* 1.33 reign'd so hotly through all Eu∣rope in the year of our Lord 1343. Then this Wal∣lingford by that great mortality was so exhausted, that whereas before it was very well inhabited, and had 12 Churches in it, now it can shew but one or two. But the inhabitants rather lay the cause of this their town's decay upon the bridges built at Abingdon and Dorchester,e 1.34 by which means the High-road is turn'd from thence [g].

From hence Southward the Thames gently glides between very fruitful fields on both sides of it, by Moulesford,* 1.35 which K. Henry 1. gave to Girald Fitz-Walter, from whom the noble Family of the Carews are descended. A family that hath receiv'd the ad∣dition of much honour by it's matches with the noble families of Mohun, and Dinham, and others in Ireland, as well as England. Not far from hence is Aldworth, where there are certain tombs, and statues upon them larger than ordinary, much wonder'd at by the common people, as if they were the pour∣traictures of Giants; when indeed they are only those of certain Knights of the family of De la Beche, which had a Castle here, and is suppos'd to have been extinct for want of male-issue in the reign of Edward 3. And now at length the Thames meets with the Kenet,* 1.36 which, as I said before, watering the south-side of this County, at it's first entry, after it has left Wiltshire, runs beneath Hungerford,* 1.37 call'd in ancient times Ingleford Charnam-street, a mean town, and seated in a moist place, which yet gives both name and title to the honourable family of the Barons of Hungerford, first advanc'd to it's greatness byf 1.38 Wal∣ter Hungerford, who was Steward of the King's Hous∣hold under King Henry 5. and had conferr'd upon by that Prince's bounty (in consideration of his emi∣nent services in the wars) the Castle and Barony of Homet in Normandy, to hold to him and his heirs males by homage and service to find the King and his heirs at the Castle of Roan one Lance with a Fox's tail hanging to it:* 1.39 which pleasant tenure I thought not amiss to in∣sert here among serious matters. The same Walter in the reign of Henry 6. was Lord High Treasurer of England,* 1.40 and created Baron Hungerford; and what by his prudent management, and his matching with Catherine Peverell (descended from the Moels and the Courteneys) much augmented his estate. His son Ro∣bert, who marry'd the daughter and heir of the Lord Botereaux, enrich'd the family more; and then Robert his son, who had to Wife Eleanor, the daugh∣ter and heir of William Molines (upon which ac∣count he was honour'd among the Barons of the Kingdom, by the name of Lord Molines, and du∣ring the Civil Wars between the Houses of York and Lancaster was beheaded at New-castle) made great additions to it. Thomas his son, slain at Salisbury in his father's life-time, left Mary an only daughter, mar∣ried to Edward Lord Hastings, with whom he had a great estate. But Walter, brother to the said Tho∣mas, begat Edward Hungerford, father of that Walter whom Henry 8. created Baron Hungerford of Heytesbu∣ry, and condemned afterwards for a very heinous crime: nevertheless Queen Mary restor'd his chil∣dren to every thing but the dignity of Barons [h]. Not far from hence towards the South lies Widehay,* 1.41 long the seat of the Barons of St. Amand,* 1.42 whose estate by marriage came to Gerard Braybrok; and Elizabeth his eldest grand-daughter by his son Gerard transferr'd the estate by marriage to William Beau∣champ, who being summon'd to Parliament by the name of William Beauchamp of St. Amand,* 1.43 was a Ba∣ron; as his son Richard also was, who had no legiti∣mate issue.

From thence the river Kenet taking it's course be∣tween Hemsted Marshall, anciently held* 1.44 by the Rod of the Marshalsea, and belonging to the Marshals of England, where† 1.45 Thomas Parry Treasurer of the Houshold to Queen Elizabeth built a very fine seat; and Benham Valence, so call'd, from it's belonging to William Valence Earl of Pembroke7 1.46; comes to Spinae,* 1.47 the old town mention'd by Antoninus; which re∣taining still it's name, is call'd Spene; but instead of a town is now a poor little village, scarce a mile from Newbury, a noted town that had it's rise out of the ruines of it. For Newbury* 1.48 with us is as much as the New Borough, that is, in regard to Spinae the more an∣cient place, which is quite decay'd, but hath left the name in part of Newbury it self, still call'd Spinham∣lands. And if nothing else, yet this certainly might prove that Newbury fetcht it's original from Spinae; for that the inhabitants of Newbury owns the little village Spene for their mother, tho' Newbury (com∣par'd with Spene) is for it's buildings and neatness a very considerable town, and much enrich'd by cloa∣thing, well seated upon a plain, and has the river Kenet running through it. In the Norman Conquest this town fell to Ernulph de Hesdin Earl of Perch,* 1.49 whose great grandson Thomas Earl of Perch being slain at the siege of Lincoln, the Bishop of Chalons, his heir, sold it to William Marshall Earl of Pembroke, who likewise held the mannour of Hempsted hard by (spoken of before) as did his successors Marshals of England, till Roger Bigod for his obstinacy lost his honour of Earl Marshal and possessions too, which notwithstanding by much† 1.50 intercession he obtain'd again for life [i].

The Kenet continues on his course from hence, and receives by the way the little river Lamborn,* 1.51 which at it's rise imparts the name to a small mar∣ket-town, that in ancient times belong'd to Alfrith K. Alfred's Cousin, having been left him by the said King in his Will; and afterwards was the Fitzwa∣rin's, who obtain'd the privilege of a market of Hen∣ry 3. But now it belongs to the Knightly family of Essex, which derives it's pedigree from William de Essex Under-Treasurer of England in Edw. 4.'s time; and from those of the same sirname in Essex, that liv'd in great repute and honour there. From thence this lit∣tle river runs beneathg 1.52 Dennington,* 1.53 call'd also Dunning∣ton, a little but very neat castle, seated on the brow of a woody hill, having a fine prospect, and windows on all sides very lightsome. They say it was built by Sir Richard de Abberbury Knight, founder also of God's House beneath it, for the relief of the poor. Af∣terwards it was the residence ofh 1.54 Chaucer, then of the De la Poles; and within the memory of our fathers, of Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk.

And now the Kenet having run a long way, passes at last by Aldermaston,* 1.55 which Henry 1. gave to Robert Achard, from whose posterity by the De la Mares it came at length by right of marriage to the Fo∣sters, a Knightly family. At last it runs into the Thames, having first with it's windings encompass'd a great part of Reading. This little city or town of Reading,* 1.56 call'd in Saxon* 1.57 Rheadyge (of Rhea, that is, the River; or of the British word Redin, signifying Fern, which grew in great plenty hereabouts,) for the neatness of it's streets, the fineness of it's buildings, for it's riches, and the reputation it hath gotten for making of cloath, goes beyond all the other towns of this county; tho' it hath lost it's greatest ornaments, the beautiful Church, and very ancient Castle [k]. For this (as Asserius tells us) the Danes kept pos∣session of, when they drew a ditch between the Kenet and the Thames; and hither they retreated af∣ter King Ethelwolph had routed them at Inglefield,* 1.58 a little village in the neighbourhood which gives name to a noble and ancient family. But it was so de∣molish'd by K. Henry 2. (because it was a place of refuge for King Stephen's party) that nothing now

remains of it, but the bare name in the next street. Near to this K. Hen. 1. having pull'd down a little Nunnery (founded in former times by Queen Alfri∣tha, to expiate for some crimes) built a most magnifi∣cent Abbey for Monks, and enrich'd it with great Revenues. Which Prince, to use the very words of his Charter of Foundation, Because three Abbeys in the kingdom of England were formerly for their sins de∣stroy'd, that is, Reading, Chelsea, and Leonminstre, which were long in Lay-mens hands; by the advice of the Bishops, founded a new Monastery at Reading, and endow'd it with Reading, Chelsea, and Leonminstre. In this Abbey was interr'd the Founder himself King Henry7 1.59,* 1.60 together with his daughter Maud, as appears by the private history of the place; tho' some report that she was bury'd at Becc in Normandy. Who, as well as that Lacedaemonian Lady Lampido mention'd by Pliny, was a King's Daughter, a King's Wife, and a King's Mother: that is, Daughter of this Henry 1. King of England, Wife of Henry 4. Emperor of Germany, and Mother to Henry 2. King of England. Concerning which, take here a Distich inscrib'd up∣on her tomb, in my judgment ingenious enough.

Magna ortu, major{que} viro, sed maxima partu, Hic jacet Henrici filia, sponsa, parens. Great born, match'd greater, greatest brought to bed, Here Henry's Daughter, Wife, and Mother's laid.

And she might well be counted greatest and most happy in her issue.* 1.61 For Henry 2.* 1.62 her son (as Joan∣nes Sarisburiensis, who liv'd in those times, hath ob∣serv'd) was the best King of Britain, the most fortunate Duke of Normandy and Aquitain; and as well for the greatness of his actions, as his excellent virtues, above all others. How valiant, how magnificent, how wise and modest he was, as I may say from his very infancy, envy it self can neither conceal nor dissemble, since his actions are still fresh in our memory, and conspicuous; since he hath extended the monuments of his power from the bounds of Britain to the Marches of Spain. And in another place concerning the same Prince, Henry 2. the mightiest King that ever was of Britain, thunder'd it about Garumna, and besieging Tholouse with success, did not only strike terror into the inhabitants of Provence as far as the Rhosne and Alpes, but also by demolishing their strongholds, and subduing the people, made the Princes of France and Spain to tremble, as if he threatned an uni∣versal conquest. I will add farther, if you please, a word or two relating to the same Prince, out of Giraldus Cambrensis: From the Pyrenaean Mountains unto the western bounds and farthest limits of the northern Ocean, this our Alexander of the West hath stretched forth his arm. As far therefore as nature in these parts hath enlar∣ged the Land, so far hath he extended his victories. If the bounds of his Expeditions were sought for, sooner wou'd the globe of the earth fail, than they end; for where there is valour and resolution, lands may possibly be wanting, but victories can never fail; matter for triumphs may be want∣ing, but triumphs themselves never. How great an addi∣tion to his glories, titles, and triumphs was Ireland? With how great and stupendous a courage did he pierce thro' the very secret and occult places of the Ocean? But take here an old verse upon his death, which fully expresses in short both all this, and also the glories of his son King Richard 1.

Mira cano, sol occubuit, nox nulla secuta est. Strange! the sun set, and yet no night ensu'd.

* 1.63For Richard was so far from bringing night upon this our Nation, that by his Victories in Cyprus and Syria he enlighten'd it with brighter beams of glory. But this by way of digression. Let us now return from persons to places. This Monastery wherein King Hen. 1. lies interr'd, is now convertedi 1.64 into a Royal Seat; adjoyning to which stands a very fine stable, stor'd with noble horses of the King's. But concerning this place, take these verses of the Poet describing the Thames running by it.

Hinc videt exiguum Chawsey, properat{que} videre Redingum nitidum, texendis nobile pannis. Hoc docet Aelfredi nostri victricia signa, Begscegi caedem, calcata cadavera Dani: Utque superfuso maduerunt sanguine campi. Principis hic Zephyro Cauroque parentibus orti Cornipedes crebris implent hinnitibus auras, Et gyros ducunt, gressus glomerantque superbos Dum cupiunt nostri Martis servire lupatis. Haeccine sed pietas? heu dira piacula, primum Neustrius Henricus situs hic, inglorius urna Nunc jacet ejectus, tumulum novus advena quaerit Frustra; nam regi tenues invidit arenas Auri sacra fames, Regum metuenda sepulchris. Thence little Chawsey sees and hastens on To Reading, fam'd for cloth, an handsome town.

Here Aelfred's troops their happy valour show'd, On slaughter'd Begsceg and his Pagans trod, And drown'd the meadows in a purple flood.

Here too in state the royal coursers stand, Proud to be govern'd by our Mars's hand. Full stretch'd for race they take their eager round, And neighing fill the air, and trampling shake the ground.

But where, poor banish'd Virtue, art thou gone? Here Henry lies without a single stone, Equall'd, alas, with common dead too soon.

So fatal avarice to Kings appears, It spares their crowns more than their sepulchres.

Scarce half a mile from Reading, amongst fine green Meadows, the Kenet joyns the Thames; which by the conflux being much enlarg'd, spreads it self to∣wards the north, running by Sunning* 1.65 a little village, that one would wonder should ever have been the See of eight Bishops, who had this County and Wiltshire for their Diocese; yet our Histories report as much. The same was afterwards translated by Herman to Sherburn, and at last to Salisbury, to which bishoprick this place still belongs8 1.66. Not far off stands Laurence Waltham, where the foundations of an old fort are to be seen, and Roman coins are often digg'd up9 1.67. Thence the Thames passes by Bistleham, contracted now into Bisham,* 1.68 at first a Lordship of the Knights Templers, then of the Montacutes10 1.69, who built a lit∣tle Monastery here; afterwards of that noble Knight Sir Edw. Hobey,* 1.70 a person to whom I owe a particu∣lar respect, and whose more than ordinary obligati∣ons are so much the subject of my thoughts, that I can never possibly forget them.

The Thames now bidding adieu to Bisham, fetch∣es a compass to a little town call'd in former ages Southealington11 1.71, now Maidenhead,* 1.72 * 1.73 from I know not what British Maiden's head, one of those eleven thou∣sand Virgins, who, as they returned home from Rome with Ursula their Leader, suffer'd Martyrdom near Cologne in Germany, from that scourge of God, At∣tila. Neither is this town of any great antiquity; for no longer ago than our great grandfathers time, there was a ferry, in a place somewhat higher, at Babhams end. But after they had built here a wood∣en bridge upon piles, it began to have inns, and to be so frequented, as to outvie its neighbouring mo∣ther Bray, a much more ancient place, as having gi∣ven name to the whole Hundred. I have long been of the opinion, that the Bibroci,* 1.74 who submitted themselves to Caesar's protection, held these parts; and why shou'd I not think so? There are very clear and plain remains of the name; Bibracte likewise in France, is now contracted into Bray, and not far from hence Caesar cross'd the Thames with his army (as I shall shew in its proper place) when these parts submitted themselves to him. Certainly, shou'd one

seek for the Bibroci elsewhere, he wou'd, I believe, hardly find them.

* 1.75Among these Bibroci stands Windesore, in Saxon (perhaps from the winding shore) Wyndleshora, for so it is term'd in K. Edw. the Confessor's Charter, who in these very words made a Grant of it to West∣minster. To the praise of Almighty God, I have granted as an endowment and perpetual inheritance, to the use of those that serve the Lord, Windleshore, with its appur∣tenances. And I have read nothing more ancient con∣cerning Windsor.* 1.76 But the Monks had not long held it in possession, when William the Norman, by ex∣change, brought it back to the crown. For thus his Charter runs: With the consent and favour of the vene∣rable Abbot of Westminster, I have enter'd into a composi¦tion about Windsor's being in the possession of the Crown, be∣cause that place seems commodious by the nearness of the river, the forest fit for hunting, and many other particulars therein convenient for Kings; being likewise a place fit for the King's entertainment: in lieu whereof, I have granted them Wokendune and Ferings. Scarce any Royal Seat can certainly have a more pleasant situa∣tion. For from an high hill rising with a gentle ascent, it hath an admirable prospect round about. Its front overlooks a long and wide valley, chequer'd with corn-fields and green meadows, clothed on each side with groves, and water'd with the calm and gen∣tle Thames. Behind it arise hills every where, nei∣ther craggy, nor over-high, adorn'd with woods, and, as it were, consecrated by nature it self to Hunt∣ing. The pleasantness of it hath drawn many of our Princes hither, as to a retiring place; and here was K. Edw. 3. (that potent Prince) born to conquer France: who built new from the ground a Castle, in bigness equal to a little City, strengthen'd with ditches, and towers of square-stone; and having pre∣sently after subdu'd the French and the Scots, kept at the same time John King of France, and David King of Scots, Prisoners here. This Castle is divi∣ded into two Courts. The inner, which looks to∣wards the East, contains in it the King's palace; than which, if you consider the contrivance of the build∣ings, nothing can be more stately and magnificent. On the north-side, where it looks down to the river, Queen Elizabeth added a most pleasant Terrace-Walk. The outer Court hath at it's entrance a state∣ly Chapel, consecrated by K. Edw. 3. to the blessed Virgin Mary, and St. George of Cappadocia; but brought to it's present magnificence by K. Edw. 4.12 1.77. Here K. Edw. 3.* 1.78 for the encouraging military virtue, and the adorning it with honours, rewards, and glo∣ry, instituted the most noble society of Knights, which (as some report) from his own Garter given for the Word in a battel that prov'd successful, he stiled Knights of the Garter.* 1.79 They wear on their left leg, a little below the knee, a blue Garter, carrying this Motto embroider'd in letters of gold, and in French, HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE, and fasten the same with a buckle of gold, as a token of Concord and a tye of the strictest Amity, to the end there might be amongst them a certain Consociation and community of Virtues. Others attribute it to the Garter of the Queen, or rather of Joan Countess of Salisbury (a Lady of incomparable beauty) that fell from her as she was a dancing, and the King took up from the floor; at which the Nobles that stood about him fell a laugh∣ing: whereupon the King told them, That the time should shortly come when the greatest honour ima∣ginable should be paid to that Garter. This is the com∣mon report; neither need it seem to be a mean origi∣nal, considering that, as one saith, Nobilitas sub amore jacet, i.e. Nobility lies under love. There are some too, that make the invention of this order much an∣cienter; fathering it upon K. Rich. 1. and persuading themselves that K. Edward only reviv'd it: but how truly, I know not. Yet in the very book of the first Institution, which William Dethick Garter Principal King at Arms (a Gentleman very studious in every thing relating to Honour and the Nobility) gave me a sight of, we read thus: When K. Richard led his Army against the Turks and * Saracens,* 1.80 Cyprus and Acon, and was weary of such lingring delay, while the siege was carried on with a wonderful deal of trouble; at length, upon a divine inspiration, (by the apparition, as it was thought, of St. George) it came into his mind, to draw upon the legs of certain chosen Knights of his, a certain tach of leather, such as he had then ready at hand, where∣by being minded of that future glory was then promised them if they conquer'd, it might be an incitement to push them on to the behaving themselves with courage and reso∣lution: in imitation of the Romans, that had such variety of crowns, with which, upon several accounts, they pre∣sented and honour'd their soldiers, that, as it were, by in∣stigations of this kind, cowardise might be shaken off, and valour and bravery might arise and start out with more vi∣gour and resolution.

However, the mightiest Princes of Christendom have reputed it a very great honour to be chosen; and since it's first institution, there have been already admitted into this Order (which consists of 26 Knights) 22 Kings, or thereabouts, besides our Kings of England, who are term'd Sovereigns* 1.81 thereof; not to mention a great many Dukes and other per∣sons of the greatest quality. And here,* 1.82 I think it will not be amiss, to set down the names of those who were first admitted into this Order, and are commonly call'd the Founders of the Order; for their glory can never be obliterated, who in those days for military valour and bravery had very few Equals, and were upon that account advanced to this honour.

• Edward 3. King of England.
• ...Edward his eldest son, Prince of Wales.
• ...Henry Duke of Lancaster.
• ...Thomas Earl of Warwick.
• ...Capdall de Buche.
• ...Ralph Earl of Stafford.
• ...William Montacute Earl of Salisbury.
• ...Roger Mortimer Earl of March.
• ...John L'isle.
• ...Bartholomew Burgwash.
• ...John Beauchamp.
• ...John de Mohun.
• ...Hugh Courtney.
• ...Thomas Holland.
• ...John Grey.
• ...Richard Fitz-Simon.
• ...Miles Stapleton.
• ...Thomas Walle.
• ...Hugh Wrothesley.
• ...Niel Loring.
• ...John Chandos.
• ...James de Awdeley.
• ...Otho Holland.
• ...Henry Eme.
• ...Zanchet Dabridgecourt.
• ...13 1.83William Paynel.

On the left side of the Chapel, are the houses of the Warden or Dean, and the 12 Prebendaries. On the right-side is a building, much of the nature of the Gre∣cian Prytaneum, in which 12 aged soldiers, Gentlemen born, are maintained. These wear constantly a scar∣let gown, reaching down to their ankles, with a pur∣ple mantle over it; and are bound to be at Divine Service, and to offer up their prayers dayly to God Almighty for the Knights of the Order. Betwixt the two Courts there rises up an high mount, on which the Round Tower stands; and hard by it stands another lofty Tower, called Winchester-Tower, from William of Wickham Bishop of Winchester, whom K. Edw. 3. made overseer of the work. Some report that Wickham, after he had built the Tower, cut these words, (which are not to be express'd with the same turn in Latin) in a certain inner wall,* 1.84 This made Wickham. Which sentence, in the English tongue, that seldom makes any distinction of cases, bears such a doubtful construction, that it makes it uncer∣tain, whether he made the Castle, or the Castle made him. This was carried to the King by some private Backbiters, and represented so to his prejudice, as if Wickham did arrogantly challenge to himself all the

honour of the building. Which when that King took ill, and sharply chid him for it; he made this answer, that he had not arrogated to himself the ho∣nour of so magnificent an royal a Palace, but ac∣counted this piece of work as the cause of all his preferments. Neither have I (continued he) made this Castle, but this Castle hath made me, and from a mean condition advanc'd me to the King's favour, riches, and honours. Under the castle towards the West and South, lies the town, indifferently large and populous: since K. Edward 3.'s time it hath grown into reputa∣tion; and the other which stands further off, now call'd Old Windsor, hath by little and little fallen to decay: in which (in the reign of William 1. as we read in his book) there were an hundred† 1.85 houses, where∣of 22 were exempt from tax* 1.86; out of the rest there went 30 shillings. Here is nothing else worth mentioning, but Eaton,* 1.87 which lies over against Windsor on the other side of the Thames, and is joyn'd to it by a wooden bridge: it hath a fine College, and a noted School for Humanity-learning, founded by K. Hen∣ry 6. wherein, besides the Provost, 8 Fellows, and the Choire, 60 Scholars are maintain'd gratis, taught Grammar, and in due time are preferr'd to the Uni∣versity of Cambridge. But this is reckon'd to be in Buckinghamshire. There remains nothing more to say of Windsor, but that there is an honourable family of Barons,* 1.88 sirnam'd de Windsor, who fetch their ori∣ginal from Walter son of Other, Castellane of Windsor in the reign of K. William 1. from whom likewise Robert Glover Somerset-Herald (a person very indu∣strious and skilful in the art of Heraldry) hath prov'd that the Fitzgeralds in Ireland, Earls of Kildare and Desmond, are descended. And now let it not be thought troublesom to run over these verses upon Windsor, taken out of the marriage of Tame and Isis, written some years since; in which Father Thames endeavours to celebrate the dignity of the place, and the Majesty of Queen Elizabeth then keeping her Court there.

Jam Windesorae surgunt in culmina ripae Turrigerae, celso lambentes vertice coelum. Quas ubi conspexit doctae† 1.89 gratatus Etonae, Quae fuit Orbiliis nimium subjecta plagosis; Caeruleum caput ille levans, ita farier infit. Aërias moles, gradibus surgentia templa, Ferratos postes, pinnas, vivaria, verè Perpetuo laetos campos, Zephyróque colono Florentes hortos, regum cunabula, regum Auratos thalamos, regum praeclara sepulchra, Et quaecunque refers; nunc, Windesora, referre Desine, Cappadocis quanquam sis clara Georgî Militiâ, procerúmque cohors chlamydata nitenti Cincta periscelidi suras, te lumine tanto Illustret, tantis radiis perstringit & orbem; Ut jam Phryxeum spernat Burgundia vellus, Contemnat cochleis variatos Gallia torques, Et cruce conspicuas Pallas, Rhodos, Alcala & Elba: Soláque militiae sit splendida gloria vestrae, Desine mirari, laetari desine tandem. Omnia concedunt uni, superatur in uno Quicquid habes, tibi major honos, tibi gloria major, Accola quod nostrae ripae siet incola vobis Elizabetha.* 1.90 (Simúlque suo quasi poplite flexo Tamisis en! placidè subsidet, & inde profatur) Elizabetha suis Diva & Dea sola Britannis, Cujus inexhaustas laudes si carmine nostro Complecti cuperem, Melibocco promptius Alpes Imponam, numerémque meas numerosus arenas. Si quasdam tacuisse velim, quamcunque tacebo, Major erit; primos actus, veterésque labores Prosequar? ad sese revocant praesentia mentem. Justitiam dicam? magis at clementia splendet. Victrices referam vires? plus vicit inermis. Quòd pietas floret, quòd non timet Anglia Martem, Quòd legi nemo, quòd lex dominatur & omni, Quòd vicina truci non servit Scotia Gallo, Exuit atque suos sylvestris Hibernia mores, Criniger Ultonius quòd jam mitescere discit, Laus sibi sola cadit, nil non debetur & illi; Crimina quae pellunt, tantâ quae principe dignae Omnes templa sacro posuerunt pectore Divae; Religio superos sanctè monet esse colendos, Justitia utilibus semper praeponere justum Edocet; ut praeceps nil sit, prudentia suadet; Temperies ut casta velit, cupiatque pudica Instruit; immotam mentem constantia firmat. Hinc EADEM SEMPER, rectè sibi vindicat illa.* 1.91 Proferat undoso quis tantas carmine laudes? Sola tenet laudum quicquid numerabitis omnes. Sit felix, valeat, vivat, laudetur, ametur; Dum mihi sunt fluctus, dum cursus, dum mihi ripae, Angligenum foelix Princeps moderetur habenas, Finiat una dies mihi cursus, & sibi vitam. Now on the bank fam'd Windsor's towers appear, Mount their high tops, and pierce the utmost air. At this (but first does Eaton's walls salute, Where stern Orbilius governs absolute, And in proud state his birchen scepter shakes) Thames lifts it's azure head, and thus he speaks:

Windsor, no more thy ancient glories tell, No more relate the wonders of thy hill; Thy Forts, thy Fenns, thy Chapel's stately pile:

Thy Spires, thy smiling Fields, thy happy Springs; Thy Cradles, Marriage-beds, or Tombs of Kings. Forget the Knights thy noble stalls adorn, The Garter too by them in honour worn: Tho' that great Order found the first in fame, And swells so high with mighty George's name, That Burgundy contemns her golden Fleece, And the light French their scallop'd chains despise. Rhodes, Alcala and Elbe with shame disown The painted Crosses on their mantles shown. These glories now are all eclips'd by one, One honour vies with all thy old renown. When on thy courts, and on my bank we see Elizabeth (then Thames with bended knee Stoops low to pay obeysance to her name; And thus goes on, pleas'd with his mighty theme.) Elizabeth, whom we with wonder stile The Queen, the Saint, the Goddess of our Isle: Whose praise should I endeavour to rehearse Within the narrow bounds of feeble verse;

As soon huge Athos might on Atlas stand Rais'd by my strength; as soon my weary hand Might count the endless globules of my sand.

If any grace on purpose I'd conceal, What I pass by will prove the greatest still. If her past deeds inspire my joyful tongue, Her present actions stop th' imperfect song. Should her strict justice fill my rising thought, Her mercy comes between and drives it out. Or was my subject her triumphant Arms, Alas! more trophies grace her conqu'ring charms. That virtues flourish, and the peaceful gown; That all to laws are subject, laws to none: That Scotland hath refus'd the Gallick yoak, And Ireland all her savage arts forsook: That Ulster's sons at last reform'd appear; To her they owe, the fame belongs to her. Virtues, that single make us thro'ly blest, United, all adorn her princely breast. To heaven her Godlike mind Religion bears, Justice to profit honesty preferrs. Deliberate prudence cautious thoughts inspires, And temp'rance guides her innocent desires. Her settled constancy's unshaken frame Deserves the noble motto, STILL THE SAME. But ah! my numbers all are spent in vain, And grasp at that they never can contain.

Should some wild fancy all th' encomiums joyn That worth could e're deserve, or poët feign, The panegyrick would be still too mean.

O may her years increase with her renown, May constant joys attend her peaceful Crown, While I my streams or banks can call my own!

And when she dies (if Goddesses can die) May I straight fail, and be for ever dry!

The rest of Barkshire,* 1.92 that is southward from Wind∣sor, and is shadow'd with woods and groves, is com∣monly call'd Windsor-Forest, and is but thinly planted with villages (of which Okingham is the most noted for it's bigness, and cloathing trade;) but is well stock'd every where with game. Now (since we

have often already,* 1.93 and shall hereafter speak of Fo∣rests) if you have a desire seriously to know what a Forest is, and whence the name comes, take it here out of the Black Book of the Exchequer. A Forest is a safe harbour for beasts, not every sort, but for such as are wild: not in every place, but in some certain places fit for the purpose: whence it is call'd Foresta, quasi Fe∣resta, that is Ferarum statio. And it is incredible how much ground the Kings of England have suf∣fer'd every where to lie wast, and have set apart for the shutting up of Deer; or, as our writers term it, have afforested. Neither can I believe that any thing else was the cause,* 1.94 but too great delight in * hunting (tho' some attribute it to want of people;) for since the Danish times, they have continually afforested more and more places, and for their preservation have imposed very strict laws, and appointed a Chief-Ranger or Forester,* 1.95 who is to take cognizance of all causes relating to the Forests, and may punish with loss of life or limb any one that shall kill the Deer in any Chase or Forest. But Joannes Sarisburiensis shall briefly relate these things in his own words out of his Polycraticon: That which will make you more admire, to lay gins for birds, to lay snares, to allure them with springs or pipe, or to entrap them any manner of way, is by proclamation often made a crime, punishable with for∣feiture of goods, or loss of limb and life. You have heard that the fowls of the air and fishes of the sea are common. But these are the King's, and are claimed by the Forest-Law where e're they fly. With-hold thine hand, and for∣bear, lest thou fall into the Huntsman's hands, and be punish'd for Treason. The Husbandmen are debarr'd their Fallows, whilst the Deer have liberty to stray abroad; and that their feedings may be enlarg'd, the Farmer is cut short of the use of his own grounds. What is sown or planted they keep from the Countryman, pasturage from the Graziers, and throw the Bee-hives out of the Flowry Plots; nay, even the Bees themselves are scarce suffer'd to use their natural liberty. Which courses seeming too inhu∣mane, have often been the occasion of great troubles, till by the Barons revolt, the Charta de Foresta was ex∣torted from Henry 3. wherein, having abrogated those rigorous laws, he granted others more equita∣ble, to which those that live within the limits of the Forests are at this day bound to be conformable. Af∣terwards,* 1.96 two Justices were appointed for these cau∣ses, whereof one presides over all the Forests on this side the river Trent, the other over those beyond it as far as Scotland, with great authority. Through∣out all this County (as we find in the Survey-book of England) The Taine or King's Knight, holding of him as Lord, whensoever he died, left to the King for a Relief, all his Armour, one Horse with a Saddle, and another without a Saddle. And if he had either Hounds or Hawks, they were tendred to the King, that if he pleas'd, he might take them. When Geld was given in K.† 1.97 Edward's time throughout all Barkshire, an hide yielded 3 d. ob. before Christmas, and as much at Whitsun∣tide. Thus much of Barkshire, which as yet has given no person the title of Earl.

There are in this County 140 Parishes.

The Countries we have been travelling over, that is, those of the Danmonii, Durotriges, Belgae, and Attrebatii, while the Saxons had the Sovereignty here in Britain, fell to the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, which they in their language call'dk 1.98 Weast-Seaxan-ric, as they did themselves Geguysis, from Cerdic's grandfather, who first en∣rich'd this Kingdom: whence some call them Geuissi, and others Visi-Saxones, from their western situation; as the Western Goths are nam'd Visi-Gothi. These at length, when the English Empire was grown to maturity, reduc'd the Saxon Heptarchy into a Monarchy, which nevertheless afterwards thro' the laziness of their Kings, quickly grew as it were decrepit, and easily vanish'd. So that herein we daily see it confirm'd, that the race of the most valiant, and no∣blest Families, as the Shoots of Plants, have their first sprouting up, their time of flowring, and maturity; and in the end fade and die by little and little.

ADDITIONS to BARKSHIRE.

* 1.99[a] WHAT the original of this Coun∣ty's name may be, is much har∣der to determine; than to show that those which are common∣ly produc'd, are certainly false. The Berrock and Beroke might have something in them, if our Author's name of the Shire, Berrocscyre, were the true one. From whence he had it, I know not; nor can I be so uncharitable as to believe, he would mo∣del it so on purpose to suit that conjecture. 'Tis plain however from the most ancient Annals of the Saxons, that the old name was Bearrucscire, which according to different ages we find afterwards first written Bearrucsyre, and then Barrucscire; from which the present name is easily melted.

* 1.100[b] As for the Isis, being call'd afterwards Thami∣sis; neither the true name of the river is in any an∣cient Record, Isis, (which was forg'd at first to encou∣rage that opinion of Thame and Isis;) nor is the meet∣ing of those two rivers the cause of Thamisis, it being call'd Tems all along before their joyning, as well as after. For the proof of both, it may be sufficient to refer the Reader to what is observ'd before upon this subject,* 1.101 in * Wiltshire.

At the south part of Oxford, there begins a great Causey, going from Frier-Bacon's study, near two miles towards Abingdon ‖;* 1.102 which one would imagine had been a work of the Romans, but that it appears by Record to have been made by Robert Doiley in the time of William the Conqueror.

[c] The Thames running by Oxford, goes on to Abingdon,* 1.103 which as it is now the Shire town for all publick business; so was it formerly eminent for Meetings about the weighty affairs of the whole King∣dom. For which reason, and it's ancient name Sheo∣vesham (written by Leland, whether from Record or by a mistake I know not, Seukesham,) I am enclin'd to think this the very place wherein two Synods were held, one in the year 742. and the other in 822. both said to be at Clofes-hoo. For tho' Mr. Cam∣den settles it in Kent, yet he expresses himself not fully convinc'd of the certainty of his opinion: and I know not of any Author that agrees with him in calling it Clives at Ho; which indeed gives the greatest colour to his opinion. But what he himself suggests, that it seems to have been in Mercia, and that that is not by any means a convenient place for a Synod or Coun∣cil, are unanswerable objections. For one may ima∣gine that Aethelbald King of the Mercians had the greatest hand in it, because the Saxon Annals men∣tion him particularly, as present; and that in Kent is too much in a corner to answer the character of Clofeshoo, mention'd only twice in the Annals, and both times expresly said to be the place of a Synod. And in a Council at Hertford, in 672. we find it de∣creed, that there should be two Synods yearly; but because there are several incidental causes might prevent them, it was unanimously agreed however that there should one meet yearly the first day of August, at the place call'd Clofeshoh. Which can never be suppos'd, unreason∣ably to point out a place so little for the convenience of most of the members; but may very rationally be meant of Abingdon, a place perhaps as eligible by all parties as could well be thought of. At present this town is particularly honour'd by affording to the right honourable James Bertie the title of Earl.

[d] From hence we come to White-horse-hill,* 1.104 the head of the river Ock; above which, by Ashbury-park,

* 1.105 is a Camp, of a figure as near round as square, the diameter above an hundred paces, and the works single; which seems to prove it Danish. But the works are now almost quite spoil'd and defac'd by digging for the Sarsden-stones (as they call them) to build my Lord Craven's house in the park.

Above the same hill, there is another Camp with single works, but very large; and at about two fur∣longs distance, is a barrow call'd Dragon-hill: but whether from hence one should conclude this to be the tumulus of Uther Pendragon, since the conjecture is not warranted by any direct testimony from history, I leave to others to determine. As also, whether the White horse on the hill-side was made by Hen∣gist, since the Horse was the Arms or figure in Hen∣gist's standard.

About a mile from the hill, there are a great ma∣ny large stones, which tho' very confus'd, must yet have been laid there on purpose. Some of them are plac'd edge-wise; but the rest are so disorderly, that one would imagine they had been tumbl'd out of a cart.

[e] Next is Pusey,* 1.106 which (as our Author ob∣serves) the Puseys hold by a Horn granted them by Canutus. But whether his authority be the private Records of the Estate, or the Inscription of an horn still in the possession of that family, and implying what he affirms; I cannot be certain. The latter is more probable, and if so, liable to this Exception, that both the character and stile are modern; many hun∣dreds of years after the Conquest: so that of what antiquity soever the Horn it self may be, the Inscri∣ption must have been added long after the age of Ca∣nutus. Not but the tradition of Canutus's giving it may be very true, since there are so many instances of this kind in many parts of England; and Ingul∣phus has expresly told us, that in those days it was common (among other things) to make Grants of Lands by Horns.

[f] A mile above Wantage, east from Ashbury, there is a very large Camp on the brow of a hill, of a quadrangular form and single-work'd; from which it appears to be Roman.

* 1.107East from hence is Cuckamsley hill, call'd in Saxon Cƿichelmes-hleaƿe, and by Florence of Worcester Cuiccelmeslawe; from whence, by degrees, the present name is melted, and the word hill added by a tauto∣logy, for want of knowing that hleaƿe in the Saxon implies so much.* 1.108 Over this it was that the Danes pass'd in their Depredations, after they had destroy'd Wallingford, in the year of our Lord 1006.

[g] The Thames passing from Abingdon through Sunning, goes to Wallingford,* 1.109 which appears to have been formerly a town of very great note, as from our Author's description, so also from† 1.110 Leland's observa∣tion, that it had once 14 Parish-Churches, and that there were in his time several persons living, who could shew the places where they all stood, and the Church yards that belong'd to them. Notwithstand∣ing the two great misfortunes mention'd by our Au∣thor: their Mault-trade, and the convenience of send∣ing corn and other commodities by water to London, do still support it; so that of late years 'tis very much encreas'd both in buildings and number of inhabi∣tants. It is a Corporation govern'd by a Mayor and six Aldermen, who are Justices of the Peace within the Burrough; and there is a Free-school, and a Mar∣ket-house wherein the Mayor and Justices keep the Quarter-Sessions.

[h] The Thames running from hence, receives the Kennet, upon which stands Hungerford,* 1.111 a town particularly famous for the best Trouts; but tho' it be situate upon a great road, yet neither are its build∣ings or market very considerable. The Constable (who is annually chosen) is Lord of the Mannour, and holds it immediately of the King; so that our Author seems to express it in terms too general, when he says, that all the Hungerford's Lands were restor'd to the Children of Walter Lord Hungerford; who was executed for a crime not fit to be mention'd. They have in this town a Horn, holding about a quart; the Inscription whereof affirms it to have been given by John of Gaunt along with the Rial-fishing (so 'tis there express'd,) in a certain part of the river.

[i] From thence the Kennet runs to Newbury,* 1.112 fa∣mous for the Engagements there between his Majesty King Charles 1. and the Parliament-Army, in the late Civil Wars.

[k] And then to Reading,* 1.113 in Saxon (as our Au∣thor observes) Rheadyge, tho' the Saxon Annals call it Reading, Raeding, and Reding. Where the Castle stood,‖ 1.114 Leland says he could not exactly discover; but imagines it might stand at the west-end of Castle-street. It is probable, that some part of the Abbey was built out of the ruins of it, and it might perhaps be upon the very spot where the Abbey was. Now, there is not so much as a tradition of any Castle that ever was there: only the precincts of the Abbey are some signs of Fortifications; but those they affirm to have been cast up no longer since than the last Civil Wars; and the tracks also of the two Bastions are ac∣cording to the modern way of fortifying. However, the Coins found there are an evidence of the Anti∣quity of the place; one particularly of gold, and ano∣ther of brass: but of what People I have not learn'd. The great support of the town (as our Author hints, and Leland expresly tells us) was Cloathing; but the convenience of the river giving great encouragement to the Mault-trade, they now apply themselves espe∣cially to that, and find it turn to so good account, that their employment about Cloath is in a great mea∣sure laid aside. For whereas they have had formerly sevenscore Clothiers, now their number is but very small.

[l] Next, the Thames goes to Windsor, call'd in Saxon Windlesoure, Windlesora, and also Windles∣ofra, from the winding banks, ofre in that language signifying a bank or shore. The Kings of England have all along had a great affection for this place upon the account of it's situation; but none more than King Charles 2. who at great expences very much beauti∣fied the Lodgings both by curious Paintings and other improvements.

EARLS of Barkshire.

This County gave the title of Earl first to Francis Norris, created Jan. 28. 1620. but he dying without issue-male, it was bestow'd upon Thomas Howard, Viscount Andover, who was succeeded in it by Charles his son and heir; and this Charles, by Thomas Howard his brother.

More rare Plants growing wild in Barkshire.

Myrtus Brabantica sive Elaeagnus Cordi Ger. Gaule or Dutch Myrtle. See the Synonymes in Dorsetshire. By old Windsor park corner. Park. p. 1451.

Orchis galeâ & alis ferè cinercis J. B. Cynos or∣chis latifolia hiante cucullo minor C. B. latifolia minor Park. major altera Ger. The man Orchies. On Cawsham hills by the Thames-side, not far from Reading.

Polygonatum Ger. vulgare Park. latifolium vulgare C. B. Polygonatum, vulgò sigillum Solomonis J. B. Solomon's Seal. In a field adjoyning to the Wash at New∣berry, and in divers other places of Barkshire. Observed by my worthy friend Mr. George Horsnell Chirurgeon in London.

Hieracium Pulmonaria dictum angustifolium. Pul∣monaria Gallica seu aurea angustifolia Ger. emac. Nar∣row-leaved golden Lungwort. Found in an old Roman camp at Sidmonton near Newberry. Ger. emac. p. 305.

[illustration] map of Surrey

SƲRREY by Rob^t. Morden

Notes

• * 1.1

  Asserius.
• * 1.2

  ••arendon.
• * 1.3

  ••••il. Neu∣••igens.
• * 1.4

  ••••bandune 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Abing∣••n.
• * 1.5

  Henricus quintus quarto fun∣daverat anno, Rex pontem Bur∣ford super undas atque Culham∣ford.
• * 1.6

  Mault.
• * 1.7

  Now Ash∣bury near Whitehorse Hill.
• * 1.8

  Besiles Lee. Fetiplace.
• 1 1.9

  And widow to Gilbert Lord Talbot.
• * 1.10

  Viscounts Lisle.
• 2 1.11

  By K. Henry 6.
• 3 1.12

  By a Patent, without any such regard.
• 4 1.13

  In the time of K. Edward 6.
• 5 1.14

  By Queen Mary.
• 6 1.15

  Who ended his life issueless.
• * 1.16

  Pusey.
• * 1.17

  Dench∣worth.
• * 1.18

  The Thames. Sinodun.
• * 1.19

  Bretwel.
• * 1.20

  Rob. Mon∣tensis.
• * 1.21

  Gallena.
• a 1.22

  See this opinion confuted in the Additions to Wiltshire.
• b 1.23

  Wealingford, Walingeford, and Walingford, by the Saxon Annals, according to the several ages.
• * 1.24

  Walling∣ford.
• * 1.25

  Hagas.
• † 1.26

  De G••••••.
• c 1.27

  The ditch of the town (says Leland) and the creast whereon the wall stood are yet manifestly perceiv'd, and begin from the Castle, going in compass a good mile or more.
• d 1.28

  Leland says it has 3 dikes, large and deep, and well water'd.
• ‖ 1.29

  Haga••.
• * 1.30

  Lords of Walling∣ford.
• † 1.31

  Fillo Co∣mitis.
• * 1.32

  Of the Ho∣nour of Walling∣ford in T•••••• de N•••••• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Exche∣quer.
• * 1.33

  A terrible ••••ague.
• e 1.34

  Just so Wilton, the once chief town of Wiltshire, began to decay, when the road was turn'd through Salisbury, and the bridge was built there.
• * 1.35

  Moulesford
• * 1.36

  The river ••enet.
• * 1.37

  ••unger∣••••rd.
• f 1.38

  He was son of that Sir Thomas Hungerford, who was Speaker to the House of Commons, 51 Edw. 3. which was the first Parliament wherein that House had a Speaker.
• * 1.39

  ••••ima pars ••pl. Pa∣••••. Nor∣••n. 6 H. 5.
• * 1.40

  ••rons ••ngerford
• * 1.41

  ••idehay.
• * 1.42

  ••••ons of Amand.
• * 1.43

  ••••uchamp 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Amand
• * 1.44

  Per vir∣gam Ma∣rescalliae.
• † 1.45

  Sir Thomas.
• 7 1.46

  But Queen Elizabeth gave it to John Baptista Castilion a Piemontes of her Privy Chamber for faithful service in her dangers.
• * 1.47

  Spinae.
• * 1.48

  Newbury.
• * 1.49

  Lib. Inqui∣sitionum.
• † 1.50

  precariò.
• * 1.51

  Lamborn.
• g 1.52

  In the late Civil Wars it was a garrison for the King.
• * 1.53

  Dunning∣ton-castle.
• h 1.54

  It was the house of Jeoffery Chaucer, and there under an Oak (commonly call'd Chaucer's Oak) he is said to have penn'd many of his famous Poems. The Oak till within these few years was standing.
• * 1.55

  Alderma∣ston.
• * 1.56

  Reading.
• * 1.57

  Per vir∣gam Ma∣rescalliae.
• * 1.58

  Inglefield.
• 7 1.59

  With his wife both veil'd and crown'd, for that she had been a Queen and professed Nun.
• * 1.60

  Maud the Empress.
• * 1.61

  De nugis Curial. l. 6. c. 18.
• * 1.62

  Henry 2.
• * 1.63

  Rich. 1.
• i 1.64

  This with the Stables was probably demolish'd in the late Civil Wars, for now there is nothing to be seen of them; that which remains being a very indifferent house.
• * 1.65

  Sunning.
• 8 1.66

  Hereby falleth Ladden, a small water, into the Thames.
• 9 1.67

  And next to it Billingsbere, the inhabitation of Sir Henry Nevil issued from the Lords Abergevenny.
• * 1.68

  Bisham.
• 10 1.69

  And amongst them the first Earl of Salisbury of this family founded a Priory, wherein some say he was buried. Certes his wife, the daughter of the Lord Grandison, was buried there; and in the Inscription of his tomb it was specified, that her Father was descended out of Burgundy, Cousin-german to the Emperor of Constantinople, the King of Hungary, and Duke of Bavaria, and brought into England by Edmund Earl of Lancaster.
• * 1.70

  Sir Edw•• Hobey.
• 11 1.71

  Afterwards Maidenhith.
• * 1.72

  Maiden∣head.
• * 1.73

  A 〈◊〉〈◊〉 cap〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.74

  Bibroci.
• * 1.75

  ••••dior.
• * 1.76

  Windsor.
• 12 1.77

  And Sir Reginald Bray.
• * 1.78

  ••35••.
• * 1.79

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 of G••r••••r.
• * 1.80

  ••••••••nos.
• * 1.81

  Sovereigns.
• * 1.82

  Founders of the Or∣der.
• 13 1.83

  Holland instead of William Paynel puts Sir Walter Pavely.
• * 1.84

  Wickham's Apothegm.
• † 1.85

  Hagae.
• * 1.86

  de Gablo.
• * 1.87

  Eaton.
• * 1.88

  Barons of Windsor.
• † 1.89

  Thamisis.
• * 1.90

  Queen Eli∣zabeth.
• * 1.91

  Queen ••••¦zabeth's Motto.
• * 1.92

  Wind•••• For••••t
• * 1.93

  A Forest ••hat it is, ••nd whence ••o called.
• * 1.94

  Or for ••••ding the ••••rt in ••••••son.
• * 1.95

  Chief-ran∣••er.
• * 1.96

  Justices in Eyre.
• † 1.97

  The Con∣fessor.
• k 1.98

  West-Seaxna-ric is the true Saxon name.
• * 1.99

  ••••e name Bark∣••••.
• * 1.100

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 the ••'s ••••e.
• * 1.101

  ••age 99.
• * 1.102

  ••br. Mon. ••an.
• * 1.103

  ••gdon.
• * 1.104

  White-horse-hill.
• * 1.105

  Aubr. Monum. MS.
• * 1.106

  Pusey.
• * 1.107

  Cuckams∣ley-hill.
• * 1.108

  Chron. Sax. An. 1006.
• * 1.109

  Walling∣ford.
• † 1.110

  Itinerar. MS.
• * 1.111

  Hunger∣ford.
• * 1.112

  Newbury.
• * 1.113

  Reading.
• ‖ 1.114

  Itinerar. MS.