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Containing the manner how to make Rye Paste, or Dough.
AS for example, take a Peck and a half of Rye flower, out of which the course bran hath been taken, knead the said meal very well with hot water, untill you make it be∣come firm; This kind of paste, or dough, will cheefly stand you in
stead to make Pasty-crust for your grosser sort of Venson, and for ga∣mons of Bacon, which are to bee sent afarre off, or to bee long kept; which said cruft must be strong, and at least two or three inches thick. To this kind of paste, or dough; you may adde one half pound of Butter which will make it the better.
To make white Paste, or Dough, for great Pyes.
FOr Example, place on your pastry Table, well cleansed three quarters of a peck of fine flower, make a hole or hollownesse in the middle of it, which concavity the French Pastry Cooks call a fountain, add unto it two pound of sweet But∣ter, & in case the Butter be hard you mustwork it with your hands, before you put it upon the pastry Table, to the end that it may become soft;
when you have mingled the Butter with the flower, you may adde thereunto about the quantity of three ounces of salt reduced to pow∣der, and immediately also adde thereunto half a pint of fair water, after which you may beginne to make your paste or dough, which must bee very well kneaded; and whilst you are making of your paste as aforesaid, you may by whiles sprinkle it with water.
Now when your Paste is very wel kneaded, you must extend it and stretch it forth with a woodden rowling Pin, strew some flower both upon and under the dough, that so it may not stick to your pastry Table, nor rowling Pin.
You may observe once for all, that it is requisite in Winter, to make the paste fatter than in summer, to render it the more supple and tractable, and on the contrary, in Summer or in hot weather, you must make the paste lesse fat by a little, and consequently put
lesse butter therein, for to make it firmer, for the heat doth over sof∣ten the Dough, and causeth it to fall, which is occasioned by its being made over fat; However you must observe thus much, alwaies to qua∣lify your paste proportionably unto the finenesse you will have it of.
You must also observe, that in case the weather be cold when you make your paste, you shal do well to cover it with a warm cloath when it is half kneaded, to the end that it may bee the better mollified; after which you may compleat the work∣ing and kneading of it, untill your dough be throughly stifned, and that you do not feel any clots, or clutters in the kneading of it.
To make very white fine Paste or Dough, which may bee useful for Mince-pies and such like to bee eat∣en
hot; as also for crust for Tarts, Florentines, Custards, Fools, Chees-Cakes, Lambs-stones and sweet-breads, and the like.
MAke your white paste as afore∣said, and instead of putting two pounds of butter to three quar∣ters of a peck of fine flower, you must put three pounds therein; And thus you will attain to the making of an excellent Paste for Mince-pies, for veal Pies, for Pigeon pies, for Mutton pies, and such like, which are to be eaten hot.
And when you have a mind to prepare a Paste to make such a like Pye of, you must give it a thickness of about three or four half Crowns, but you must have a care to make the bottome of the pye somewhat thicker, that so the Pye it self may be the better supported.
And when as you intend to make use of such like paste for Tarts, Cu∣stards, Cheese-Cakes, white-pots, Lambs-stones and sweet-breads, and
the like, you must only give it a thicknesse of about half a crown, more or lesse, proportionably accord∣ing to the bignesse of your Pye, tart, custard, or the like.
To make a leaved, or Extraordinary thin Paste or Dough.
AS for Example, lay upon your kneading board or Table, half a peck of wheaten Meal flower, make a hollow in it, and pour a glasse of water into it, adde thereunto about half an ounce of beaten Salt, min∣gle all these very well together, to make your paste or dough, and e∣ver and anon sprinkle it with some water proportionably as you shall finde it to be requisite.
When this your Paste shall be ve∣ry well knitted together, although somewhat limber, you may put it in∣to a Mass or round lump, and so let it
remain for the space of one half hour or thereabouts, to the end that it may become drye and firm, after which you may extend it with a row∣ling-pin, untill it bee an inch thick, casting good store of flower upon it now and then.
After which you may take a pound of good fresh Butter, which is very stiff and hard, and spread the said Butter over your Paste, and flatten it upon the Dough with your hands; after which you must fold in the four corners of the Dough, or else you may only double your Paste, in such, a manner, as that the Butter may be inclosed in it, which being thus done, you must again extend your Paste, and rowle it very thinne with your Rowling-pin, then double in again the four corners of your Paste to∣wards the middle, & spread it abroad again with your Rowling-pin, and thus you must fold it and unfold it five or six several times, that so you may finally render your Paste as thinne as it shall be requisite; Nor
must you forget to strow it with a lit∣tle flower, that it may not stick upon your Kneading-board or Table, nei∣ther upon your Rowling-pin nor Fingers.
Whensoever you will make use of this thin Paste or Dough towards the making of a Pigeon Pie, or any other Pastrie work, you may take as great or lesse a quantity of it, as you may judge convenient, according to the proportion of the Pie you in∣tend to make; and having put it up in a masse or lump, you may after∣wards extend it with your Rowling∣pin, strowing it with some flower, so that you may reduce it to the thick∣ness of about a shilling peece in sil∣ver.
And when you have thus rowled out your Paste for the last time, you shall again strow it with a small quantity of flower, and then double it again, and put it upon one half of the Pie-plate, after which you may abate upon the other half of the Pie∣late, the other half of the Dough or
thin Paste; And finally in this manner you may fashion and shape your Pastie in such a manner as shall bee hereafter described.
Note, that in case you put lesse Butter than is prescribed in your Paste, it will bee then but a half lea∣ved Paste or Dough.
To make a Paste with Oyl, and the way how to take away the sent of the Oyl.
IN the first place you must set your Oyle over the fire, that is to say, you must cause it to boyl till it bub∣bles no more; and by this means you will take away both the sent and the unpleasantnesse of the Oyl. Some others whilst the Oyl is a boyling put a crust of bread into it.
Having thus prepared your Oyl, you may put upon your kneading∣board, as for example, one pinte of
Meal-flower, whereunto adde two or three yolks of Eggs, and as much salt as you can take up betwixt your two fingers, and as much Oyle as your own discretion will prompt you to, and the fourth part of half a pint of water, or thereabouts (a little more or lesse) mingle all these things very well together, and work your Paste throughly with your hands, but leave it somewhat of the hardest, because the Oyl hath not so firm and solid a body as the Butter. Finally having made your Paste or Dough in this manner, you may make use of it according to your pleasure.
To make sweet Paste or Dough.
FOr example, take a quarter of a pound of powdered Sugar sifted through a hair or ranging sieve, then put it into a clear Marble Morter, adde thereunto the quarter of the
white of an Egge, and about half a spoon-full of Lemmon juce, stir all these foftly together, untill the Sugar begins to jelly, and in case it will not easily jelly, adde thereunto some few drops of Rose-water, and when the Sugar doth begin to jelly, you must beat it with a Pestel till it becomes a hard and firm Paste, and when the same is well mingled, you may make Pastie crusts thereof.
Note that at your pleasure you may also make Paste that is but half sweetned, by mingling an equal part or proportion of Suger and of Meal together; the which you may min∣gle together in the self same manner, as is hereafore described.
To make the sweet spices which are used by the Pastry-Cooks.
FOr example, take two parts of Ginger, as two ounces, and one
part, viz. one ounce of beaten Pep∣per, mingle them together, adde thereunto beaten Cloves, and Nut∣megs very small grated, and beaten Mace, one ounce or thereabouts of each, for one pound of Pepper more or lesse, as you please, and put up all these several ingredients thus ming∣led in a Box.
Note, that it is at your liberty to preserve all the foregoing several sorts of spices separately in little lea∣ther purses, or in a box which is di∣vided into several drawers or repar∣titions.
Note also, that diverse persons do only make use of the single Pepper, in stead of the other spices, although it must needs bee granted that the composed spices altogether must needs bee more pleasing and Aroma∣tick than the Pepper alone.
To make salt spices.
CAuse your Salt to be well dried, and afterwards beat to powder, of which powder you shall mingle with your sweet spices aforementio∣ned, the weight of the said Salt be∣ing more than the weight of the spi∣ces four or five times; all these you must preserve together in a place which is not at all humid or moist.
The manner how to make the Pastry-Cooks varnish stuff with the which hee giveth his Pies a colour.
BEat together the yolks and whites of Eggs, just as if you would make an Omelet or Pankake; & in case you will have your varnish to be strong and good, it will be suf∣ficient
to beat one white of an Egge with two or three yolks; and on the contrary, in case you will have your varnish Pale, you should only need to take the yolks of Eggs and beat them with water.
Now the way to make use of the aforesaid wash or varnish, take a few feathers, or a little Pencil, or brush, either of Silk, or Hoggs brussles, which said brush or Pencil must bee very soft, Wet the said Pencils or brussles in your wash or varnish, and so use it at your discre∣tion to wash or varnish your Paste∣ry works.
Now in case you will not go to the charge of Eggs to make your wash or varnish, you may dissolve a little Saffron, or Marigold flowers in Milk; so likewise in Lent you may make use of the Eggs of a Pike, or Jack, for your wash or varnish, that being most proper for Lent, ha∣ving no relation to flesh.
One thing you must observe, that the Pastrie-Cooks put hony in their
washing or varnishing for to spare Eggs.
The manner how to make Cream which the Pastry-Cooks use.
AS for example, take one half pinte of good Milk, compleat Milk, Maids measure, which doth weigh near about one pound and a half, of Cowes Milk.
Put the said Milk in a skillet on the fire, and take four Eggs, and whilst the Milk is a warming on the fire, break two Eggs and beat the yolks and whites of them together, with a∣bout half a pinte of meal flower, in the self same manner, as if it were to make broath, adding thereunto a lit∣tle Milk; And when the meal shall be well thinned, in such a sort as that there are no clots left, you shall break the other two Eggs into it severally, that so they may be the better ming∣led
in this Composition.
And when you perceive the Milk doth begin to boil, you must poure the said Composition of Eggs and Meal thus steeped together with the Milk, as we ordered it before; After which let the whole boil together o∣ver a small fire which burneth clear without any smoak at all; stir all this composure or mixture with a spoon, just as if it were broath; And whilst it is a boyling, you must salt it ac∣cording to your own discretion, and adde thereunto a quarter of a pound of good pure fresh Butter.
This said Cream must bee boyled within a quarter of an hour, and a half, or thereabouts, after which you may poure it into a Porrenger, and so preserve it; This Composition is by the Pastry-Cooks called Cream, and is by them made use of in seve∣tal Pastry meats and other Cooke∣nes.
Another kind of Cream which is farre delight fuller.
AS for example, take a quartern of sweet Almonds pilled, and beat them in a Morter, and adde thereunto a good quartern, or almost half a pound of Sugar, mingle them together, by adding now and then a little Rose-water.
When your Almonds shall be thus prepared, you must take half a pinte of Milk, according to the Milk-Maids measure, and four fresh Eggs, break your Eggs, and put only the yolks of them in a Porringer, and make them thinne with a little Milk, after which you shall cast them into the Almond paste to be mingled together.
And hence you must take as much flower, as four silver spoons will con∣tain, and make it liquid with some of your milk, in the same manner as if you were a making of broath, and
after that the said milk is perfectly soked and dissolved, you may adde the rest of the half pinte of milk thereunto; and so let it boyl like unto a broath; Note, that you must spare a little of your milk, that so you may put it in the Cream whilst it is a seething, in case it should grow too thick.
Now when this said Cream shall be half boyled, pour into it your almonds which you shall have pre∣pared as aforesaid, and you must have a care to stirre the whole very well whilst it doth boili, and to salt it likewise; And when as this com∣position shall bee well boyled and thickned to a competent consisten∣cy, you must pour it into a Poren∣ger, and let the said cream rest in the same manner until the next day, or at least so long time untill it bee converted into a gelly, insomuch that you may bee able to cut it with a knile, just as you do other gellie, paste, or dough.
The manner to make Lenten Cream.
TAke a pint of good Cows milk, and cause it to be boyled, take also a little more than half a pint of flower dissolved in milk, and pour it into the boyling milk, after which adde thereunto a good quarter of a pound of sweet Almonds, peeled and beaten in a morter together with a little Milk, and you must observe, that they must bee a little lesse bea∣ten than those you intend to make Macaroons, or little sweet Fritter-like buns withall, you must salt your said Cream whilst it is a boy∣ling, adding thereunto a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and you must alwaies stir this composition whilst it is a boyling, and towards the lat∣ter end you may thereunto adde a small quantity of steeped Saffron in milk, to give your said Cream a
pleasant colout, and when your said Cream shall bee thus boyled to a sufficient consistency, you may dish it up in porengers, untill such time as it is fixt and setled, and so let it rest till you have occasion to make use of it.
The manner how to make sugared Ice, or Frost.
TAke an earthen dish, and put hereinto, (as for example) a quarter of a pound of suger, pow∣dered very fine, adde thereunto the half of the white of an egge, and a silver spoon full of Rose water, or more if it bee requisite, Beat all these ingredients together, untill the whole be reduced to a consisten∣cy of a thick Sirrop, or like unto clear broth.
The Pastry Cooks call this com∣position sugered Ice or Frost, be∣cause
they make use of it to glosse their pasties, and March-panes and their English pyes, upon which it must bee gently and suddenly spread, according to the directions which shall hereafter bee given ther∣on, either with the back of a little spoon or with a knife, or with a pencill, in the same manner as your varnish is applyed to the Pastry-works.
Several general advertisements con∣cerning the Pastry Art.
OBserve that in case you have but a few pasties or pyes to bee baked in a great Oven, you shall not therefore need to heat the whole Oven, but one part thereof propor∣tionably to the pyes you have to bake.
Curious house-wives and Lovers of this Art, have purposely small
Ovens fitted for this use at their own dwellings, and others are so exact, that they have portative O∣vens; which may bee transported from place to place.
Your Cooks they for the most part make use of covered Tart pans, wherein they bake their delicate Cakes, Tarts, and exquisite pyes.
Observe, That whensoever wee do speak of, or allege the word pound, as for Example, a pound of butter, wee do thereby mean the pound which doth weigh sixteen ounces or two marks of Goldsmiths weights, and thus of all weights proportionably.
Observe also, that when we men∣tion or allege a Pinte, that wee mean the pinte according to the Pari∣sian measure, the which doth con∣tain the weight of two pounds of water, within an ounce or therea∣bout, and almost the same quantity in wine; The Choppin as they call it in France is half a pint, and the Septies as they call it, is a quarter of
a pinte; And although these mea∣sures have several appellations ac∣cording to the respective places where they are used, However you can never bee mistaken in case you stick unto the weight of the measures which are by me pro∣pounded.
Observe therefore, that when we speak of a pinte of milk, that such a pinte most weigh three pounds with∣in an ounce or there abouts, and all the other measures proportionably, and consequently the Posson, as the French call it, of Milk being the eighth part of a pinte of milk, ac∣cording to the milk-maides measure, must weigh five ounces and a half, and three drams or thereabouts.
Observe also, That when wee speak of a French Bushell of meal, wee do thereby understand the meal that is boulted, and without Branne, and such a bushell of meal must weigh twelve or thirteen pounds, or thereabouts; And of the other measures proportionably, viz.
That the half Bushel must weigh six pounds or a little more. The quarter of the bushell must weigh three pounds full and good weight.
The Lition as they call it, or pinte, being the sixteenth part of a bushell of meal flower, must, weigh three quarters; That is to say twelve ounces.
And thus you have the generall observations concerning the mea∣sures and weights, which are com∣monly used in Pastry work.
The manner how to put a Gammon of Bacon in Paste.
CAuse your Gammon of Bacon to bee steeped in water, more or lesse, according unto its bigness, thicknesse, and drynesse.
In case a Gammon of Beacon bee very bigge, well smoaked and dri∣ed, as your Mayence Gammonds
and Bayonne Gamons usually are, you must let them steep in the water, for at least the space of twenty and four hours, or more; and then you may give a guesse, whether or no your Gammon bee well steep∣ed.
Which that you may the better be able to judge of, you shall take it out of the said water, and make an opening or hole in the midst of the flesh, drawing forth a little peece of it, and by tasting it, you may bee able to judge whether the salt and brine be sufficiently extracted; which having done, and finding it accord∣ing to your expectation, you shall thus prepare it for to bee put in paste.
In the first place therefore you must pare the top of your Gamon untill you come to the quick flesh, that so you may take off the super∣ficies or upper part of the flesh; & all that you judge to be too dry & salt, after which you must also take away the skin or upper part and you must
also cut off the knuckle.
Now having prepared your Gammon in this manner, you must knead as much dough as you shall judge requisite for your pasty; and you must make your crust at least two inches thick or thereabouts, and upon the middle of the bottome of your Pasty, you must make a bed or foundation of slices of fat Ba∣con.
This bed or foundation of fat ba∣con must bee as broad as the whole Gammon of Bacon, and upon the said Bed of fat Bacon you must place a good round handfull of parsly grosly shredded; after that you shall strew your Gammon with your sweet spices, and consequent∣ly you shall place it upon the bed of fat Bacon and parsly, which having done, you shall stick some cloves up∣on your Gammon, and a few small peeces of Mace, after which upon the top of your Gammon, you shall lay another Bed of parsly, and a bed of fat Bacon sliced, and five
or six Laurel leaves upon the fat ba∣con, and after that a good half pound of sweet Butter, which you must so spread as that it may quite cover all the slices of fat bacon which lie upon your Gammon.
Moreover, you shall knead as much paste or dough upon your kneading board as will bee requisite to make the Cover or Lid of your Pastle, which dough you must mor∣sten with your little brush, and im∣mediatly cover your pasty therwith; & having thus quite completed your said Pasty, you must straightwayes put it into the Oven, which must bee heated in the same manner as if you were to bake houshold bread.
If your Gammon be a great one, as aforesaid, it will require 3 houres boyling, but if it bee an indifferent one, two hours & a half wil serve, or two houres, according to its bignesse.
When your Pasty hath been in the Oven about half an houre, you must make three or four holes in the Lidde, for to give your pasty vent,
for otherwise it would burst; And this you must observe in all great Pasties. Moreover, in case the Pasty∣crust doth suddenly get a too high colour, and grows black, that's a sign that your Oven is over heat∣ed, and that it burns your Pasty; wherefore you must take away the Embers.
And on the contrary, if your Pa∣sty attaines no colour, that's a sign the Oven is not hot enough, and which will force you to increase the Embers, that so your Pasty may be throughly baked.
One day after your Pasty hath been baked, you must stop up the holes which you made in the Lidde, with some dough, lest your Pastie might bespoyled by the letting in of Air at those holes, which would be the cause that your Pasty would bee subject to grow mouldy, and would not keep at all.
The manner how to make a Pasty ac∣cording to the fashion of the Baskes, or the inhabitants neer Bayonne upon the Fronteers of Spain.
CAuse a Gammon of Bacon of Bayonne, or of Mayence, to bee steeped in water, (an ordinary Gam∣mon will serve turn) and when your said Gammon is throughly steeped, you may take it out of the water, and cleanse it well on the top of it, and cut off all the yellow rindes, untill you come to the quick flesh, cut off also the knuckle, and take off the skin, and in case the fat of the Bacon bee above an Inch thick, you must cut off the over∣plus, which will serve to be cut in∣to slices, and to stuff your pasty.
When as your Bacon is thus pre∣pared, you may cause it to be half per
boyled in water, with some few Bay leaves, and other sweet herbs; And when it is half boyled or there∣abouts, you may take it out of the liquor, and may place it upon a dresser-board that it may dry, you may also take out the bones of the said Gammon when it is half boy∣led, especially if you intend to have your Pasty to be eaten hot.
After your Gammon shall bee well dryed, you may prepare a Rye∣paste, or dough, or a paste of white meal, without any butter at all; you may also make this pasty like unto a venson-pasty if you please, but you had better make a pie of it to bee presently served up, by reason of the thicknesse of your Gammon; Wherefore to make the better hot pasty of this your Gammon, you must make up your crust in a round form, of a sufficient bignesse, and give it at least half a foot in height, and make it above an inch thick, af∣ter which you shall line the inside of your pastie with a lay of great
slices of fat Bacon, like unto that Bacon wherewithall you are wont to lard your Capons and Turkies, upon which Bacon you must strew a little parsly grosly chopt, then you shall powder your Gammon with two or three fingers full of sweet pices, two fingers full of white beaten Pepper, & two fingers full of beaten Mace, and then you may place your Gammon upon the lay of your fat Bacon, and you shall stick upon your Gammon a mat∣ter of a dozen Cloves, with as ma∣ny small peeces of Mace sliced, and Cinamon, whereunto you must adde a couple of bruised Onions, a small quantity of Parsly & Time, half a pound of hoggs grease, half a pound of Beef marrow, and half a pound of good fresh butter, which is well softned and spreaded, inso∣much that the said butter may cover the whole top of the said Gammon; And on the top of the said Butter, you shall again strew a good fingers full of white pepper, and as much
beaten Cinamon, upon all which you must again lay some slices of fat bacon, and two or three Bay-leaves.
When your Pastie is thus season∣ed and prepared, you must cover it with a lid of Dough, which cover must bee at least an inch thick, after which you must varnish or burnish your said lid, and you must peirce it in the middle & place upon it a little Cap or Crown of Dough made like unto a Socket, in case the Pastie bee to be eaten hot; after which you may place your Pastie upon a sheet or two of Paper to put it into the Oven.
This Pastie must bee at the least four and twenty or thirty hours a baking; and your Oven must bee a little less heated than if it were to bake brown bread or Rye bread.
After your Pastie shall have been five or six hours in the Oven, you must take it out of the Oven, and place it upon your dresser board, and you must guesse by the lid which you may take off, to see whether or no your Pastie bee full of liquor or of
sauce; for in case you find that the li∣quor is diminished, you must fill up your Pastie again with good flesh broath, which hath been made with∣out Herbs or salt; and in case you have any Mutton gravy, you may mingle it with your said broath, af∣ter which you may cover your Pasty again, and put it into the Oven im∣mediately, and every five hours or thereabouts, you must take your Pastie out of the Oven again to see whether it bee not grown dry, to the end to fill it up with broath as afore∣said; and in this manner you must continue to supply your Pasty with broath, untill the meat which is in your said Pastie shall be rotten baked.
Three or four hours before your said Pastie shall be baked, you may fill it up with Lamb-stones, sweet∣breads, Muscherons, and such other like Imbellishments which will ren∣der it the more savoury and peasing.
So likewise must you observe that whilst your Pastie is baking, you must alwaies keep your Oven hea∣ted,
to which purpose you may now and then put hot Embers into the O∣ven, at a distance from your Pastie, & sometimes faggot-sticks well lighted.
Now in case you shall have made your Pasty venson wife, that is to say, in a long sorm, you must prepare and fit it in the self same manner, as a∣bovesaid, and overabove what hath been prescribed, you must moreover place a lay of parsly both above and beneath your meat.
Nor must you forget to make three or four holes in the Lid of your Pasty to give it vent; as for Ven∣son Pasties, you need not to make any Cap or Crown upon them.
To make a Gammon Pastie after the Turkish Mode.
YOu must cause your Gammon to be prepared as before, and when it shail have been half perboy∣led
in water, and that you have cau∣sed the bones to bee taken out, you shall lard the lean part of your Gam∣mon with slices of fat Bacon powde∣red with sweet spices, the slices of Ba∣con shall bee as big as a Goose quill, after which you shall powder the Gammon it self with a few sweet spices, and with a little beaten white Pepper; after which you may pre∣pare a paste or dough of white crust, as in the foregoing Chapter. Those who are very curious indeed, do most commonly make use of half-leaved paste to make their Pastie withall, chiefly in the winter season, because that kinde of paste as then hath the better support; but you must observe, that in case you should make your paste of whole-leaved dough, it would bee very difficult to bee wrought.
Having made your paste, you must line it, or fill it within with sli∣ces of fat Bacon, a little Parsly and Time, after which put in your Gam∣mon, upon which stick a few cloves, and a dozen slices of Cinamon, and
wo good fingers full of beaten Cina∣mon, adde thereunto a little Parse∣ly, a bruised Onion, and half a quarter of a pound of Pine-apple seeds or kernils, & half a quarter of a pound of Currans, a quarter of a pound of Pistaches peeled, one quar∣ter of a preserved Lemmon, cut in small slices, a good quarter and a half of powder Sugar, a half pound of fresh butter, a half pound of sweet suet, and half a pound of marrow, and upon all this a great slice of fat Ba∣con, a Bay leaf or two, and a thought of Time; close your said Pastie, and make a Cap or Crown upon the lid thereof, and cause the said Pastie to bee baked in the self same manner, as in the aforesaid Chapter; look by whiles to see whether the liquor bee wanting, and have a care to fill it up as aforesaid.
Three or four houres before your Pastie is baked, you may adde there∣unto some Muscherons, and Lamb∣stones with sweet-breads; and two houres before you draw your said
Pastie out of the Oven, you may poure a sweet sauce into it, compo∣sed of a glass of white Wine, of a quarter of a pound of Suger, of a lit∣tle beaten Cinnamon, and if you please you may adde a little Verjuice or Vineger thereunto.
Observe, that in case this your Pastie bee not all eaten at one meal, you may cause it to bee heated several times; and in case your li∣quor or sauce should chance to fail, you may supply that defect with broath or Mutton gravy, which you may adde thereunto.
The manner how to put all kind of Ven∣son in Paste, either Stags flesh, wilde Boares, Bucks and Does, or any o∣ther gross Meats, as a brisket of Veal, a but tock of Beef, a legge or a∣ny other joynt of Mutton.
YOu must generally observe, that no kinde of flesh whatsoever may be put in paste before it be mor∣tified; Therefore you must let that flesh which yee do intend to put in paste bee sufficiently mortified, which may bee done, by hanging it in the Air, or by burying of it under ground for the space of twenty and four houres; after which you must beat the said flesh-meat more or less with a wooden rowler or pestel, ac∣cording to the said fleshes thickness and hardness, which is a third way to mortifie it; so likewise must you observe, that Beef and Mutton must bee more beaten and mortified than any other flesh whatsoever.
Observe likewise, that it is requi∣site to take out the superfluous and
great bones of such flesh as you in∣tend to put into paste, as for exam∣ple out of the leg or shoulder of Mut∣ton; and as for the remaining bones which are in the said flesh, you must burst and break them at least, in case you intend not to take them out quite; in the like manner you take out the breast bone of a Turky-cock, and of other foul in the like man∣ner.
Observe also, that in case your flesh which you intend to pastrie up, hath great nerves & hard sinnews, or tough skins, you must take all that away; as for example, from a shoul∣der or leg of Mutton you must take off the skin; in the like manner, if you intend to make a Hare-pie, and that you apprehend it may be an old and hard one, you must strip off its uppermost skin before you lard it.
Moreover, you must observe, that in case there be hollow places in such flesh as you intend to pastrie up, as there is in a Hare, and in several foul,
you must bruise and break those bones which cause that same hol∣lowness, and so make your flesh e∣ven and smooth; As for example, the Maw of a Turki-Cock, which you must cut and flash at every four fingers distance, that so you may the better bee able to lard it.
Now in case your Venson, or o∣ther gross Viands, which you do in∣tend to put in paste, should be some∣what tainted, or in case they should be warm eaten, cause water and salt to bee boyled together, and let your said Venson, or other gross meats steep therein, as in a broath, and ha∣ving so steeped for a while, draw it forth again, and hang it up to drye, that so the said liquor may run out.
Now your Viands having been pre∣pared according to the several fore∣going prescriptions, you may lard them very close with great peeces of fat Bacon, bigger or lesser, according to the proportion and quality of your several sorts of Viands; some
slices of Bacon as thick and as long as your little finger, for Venson, Beef, and Mutton, others less, according to your own discretion; and it will bee requisite that you steep your lar∣ding Bacon some pretty while be∣fore you use it, in a little Vineger sea∣soned with salt; and before you lard your Viands with them, powder them with beaten white Pepper, or with your sweet spices, which you please.
And in case your Viands be thick, and of the length of half a foot, or thereabouts, as for example, a Bris∣ket of Veal, or a Turky-Cock, and the like, either lance them, or cut them with Trenches at every four inches distance or thereabouts, in such a wise however that all the skin, or upper part of the flesh may re∣main whole, and by the means of these deep Trenches you may easily come to lard all the parts of your said Viands, which cannot bee other∣wise done; Besides that, your Viands remaining entire and whole, would
bee the more difficult to bee baked, and the sauce or liquor of your Pa∣stie would not bee able to penetrate or passe through your flesh, but with a great deal of difficulty, in case it were not lanced in the same manner as it hath been proposed.
Some there be that do steep their Beef, Mutton, Veal, and other Vi∣ands which they do intend to put in paste two or three hours in Verjuice or Vineger seasoned with salt and Pepper, or with sweet spices, and with some sweet herbs, and the which must bee done, as soon as the said Viands shall have been beaten with the Pestel or Rowling-pin, and after the said Viands shall have been larded, and when you shall have drawn it forth of the said liquor, you must perfect the putting of it into paste in the following manner.
Your flesh being ready to be put into paste, you must season it accor∣ding to your own discretion with your salt spices, in such a manner as that your said Viands do well retain
the salt or season, to which end you must powder them throughly on all sides, and in case it bee a Foul or a∣ny other flesh that is hollow, you must as then powder it inwards, and before you powder it on the thighs and back, you must make some lance∣ments or inlets therein, to the end that your said spices may the better hold or fasten, and may have the bet∣ter operation.
Your Viands being thus seasoned, you must place them upon the one end of your Dough or paste, either framed of Rye crust, or of wheaten or white, which you please, at discretion as aforesaid, which said paste must bee at least an inch in thicknesse, and long enough to make up the whole Pastie.
Your Viand or Venson, or the like, being placed upon one of the ends of your Paste, you may stick therein some few Cloves, and after that you may fill it up with some sli∣ces of fat Bacon, unto which you may also adde some Bay-leaves, and
over and above all these things you may also apply some fresh butter spread over the whole pasty, as a∣foresaid in the foregoing Chap∣ter.
Observe or note, that to make a good Hare, or Turky-pye, or a pye with four Ducks, you must have at least a quarter and a half, or much about half a peck and a quarter, or three quarters of a Bushel of meal; moreover two pounds of butter, and if so bee you will have the crust to bee very fine, you may put therein two pounds and a half, or three pounds of butter, yet however note this al∣so, that the crust being so fat may bee subject to burst in the Oven.
Now in case your pasty bee of Venson, or of any other viand that's not fat, as for example, in case you have a mind to accomodate a Hare excellently wel, you must needs have one half pound, or three quarters of a pound of fresh butter to wrap the Hare in, and at least one pound
and a half, or two pounds of fat ba∣con, as well to lard your viand; as to cover it after it is Empasted.
But and if the Meat you intend to put in paste, bee not over dry nor lean; As for example, suppose it bee a Turky-cock, well fatned, or a good fat joynt of mutton, you shall only stand in need of a good quar∣ter of a pound of fresh butter, to inclose the said viand withall, and good store of fat Bacon, to lard it to boot, wherein you must not fail.
Another observation you may take along with you, that some pastry-men do make use of sweet suet, instead of fresh butter, to raise their paste withall.
Finally, So soon as your flesh shall bee well and throughly seaso∣ned with all the requisite spices, and ingredients aforenamed, and that it shall bee well lined with butter below and above, you may as then turn up the end of the paste which is left, over the whole, only
moistening the end of the paste which remains, to refresh it, and joyn well the sides, and when you have thus well joyned or added the sides, you may give it what shape you will, after which you may burnish your Pye or Pasty, and immediately after you may put it to the Oven.
Observe, that your Oven must bee almost as hot, as is prescribed in the precedent Chapter, and thus these foregoing Pasties, will be sufficiently baked in two hours space provided they bee not extraordina∣ry great and thick ones. And when your said Pasties shall bee thus well and throughly baked, and cooled a∣gain, you must not forget to stop the holes which you made in their liddes. For the reasons before al∣leged.
By reason that in case you do not make the said holes in the Lidde of your said Pastie, within a little while after it hath been in the Oven, it will split or burn by reason of the heat.
To make a Royal Pasty which is to be eaten hot.
TAke a good Leg of Mutton, strip the skin off from it, take out the bones, and the sinnews, after which beat the flesh, to mortifie it, and then cause it to be well chopt, and as you chop it, you must season it well with salt spices.
Now your Meat being thus well chopped, you must make up your Pasty of Rie-crust, and give it at least two inches in thickness, proportionably according unto the bighesse of your Pasty, and raise the paste thereof high enough.
You must line the bottome and sides thereof, with fat Bacon in sli∣ces, and in the bottome you must also place a good handful of ox suet, which is small minced, and there∣unto adde your Meat, after it shall
have been well minced, and in case chesnuts bee in season, you may adde thereunto a reasonable pro∣portion, after they shall have been first half roasted.
When your Meat shall bee thus in your paste, you must adde thereunto one handfull of Beef suet well minced, and about half a pound of beef marrow cut into small peeces, about the bignesse of a wall-nut. All which compositi∣on you must cover or overspread with some slices of fat Bacon.
Finally, You shall cover this Pastie with rye crust at least a finger breaths thick, and you must make a hole in the said lidde.
Such a like pasty as this, must bee at least 20 or four and twenty houres in the Oven, which said Oven you must all the while keep shut, to the end that it may yeeld a sufficient heat, whereby the said Pasty may bee throughly baked; which said Pasty you must oftentimes take out of the said Oven, to supply it with
broath or gravy, as often as it shall be wanting.
To which purpose take the bones and the skin, and the sinews, which you have cut away from the said Legge of Mutton, bruise them indif∣ferently, and afterwards boile them together with the said skin and sin∣news, for the space of one houre and a half in water without salt, and when as the said Liquor and Broath shall bee concocted in such a man∣ner as that there shall bee but a pint left, you shall make use of it in the following manner, viz.
After your Royal Pasty shal have been about the space of four hours in the Oven, you must draw it, and you must poure thereinto with a Funnel, about the quantity of a quarter of a pinte of the said liquor or broath, being well heated; After which you shall again put your Pa∣sty into the Oven, and within two or three houres, you shall draw it, and you shall see whether or no it doth want any sauce or liquor, in
case whereof you shall adde more sauce unto it, and in this manner you shall draw your said Pasty at several times, till it hath continu∣ed in the Oven for the space of fif∣teen or sixteen hours, when as you shall again draw it forth of the O∣ven, and shall take off its Lidde, for to embellish your Pasty with the Yolks of Eggs; hard boyled cut in quarters, you may also adde there∣unto Mucherons, the Gils and combs of Cocks, and other-like sweet∣breads, you may also thereunto adde a small Clove of Garlick, and a drop or two of vinegar; for to make the sauce more pleasing and tart, ob∣serve also that your Lambs-stones, and sweet-breads, must bee seasoned with your sweet spices.
After which you must return the said Pasty into the Oven again, and you shall let it remain there till it be throughly baked, at least three hours afterwards, and you must have a care that the sauce or liquor thereof bee perfectly consumed before you
take your, Pasty out of the Oven, for good and all; So likewise must you have a care to maintain the fire in the said Oven, in such manner as that there may bee a sufficient heat to bake your said Pastie with∣out the burning of it.
When this like Pastie is through∣ly baked, you shall take out of it the Clove of Garlike which you did put into it; before you do serve it up to the Table, and after that you shall fasten on the Lidde of your Pastie again, that so your Pastie may bee brought whole to the Table; and if so bee the said Pye be not eaten up at one meal, you may cause it to bee heated again in the Oven, untill such time as it is quite expen∣ded.
To make a Pasty and a Tart of a Ca∣pon, of a Brest of Veal, of Pigeons, of Larks, and of other sorts of small Foules, to be eaten hot.
PRepare your Pastie Crust which must be very fine, make it of a proportionable height and bigness, of that which you do intend to put into it, and have a care to make the middle of the bottome a little thick∣er than the rest of the Pasty; fill up the bottome or line it with a little Beef suet Minced, and some mar∣row, in case it bee to bee had, or else instead thereof put therein a lit∣tle sat Bacon small shred, the peeces not exceeding the bignesse of a Pease.
Afterwards take the meate, which you do intend to put into the said pasty, having first washed it with
warm water, and having entirely cleansed it, and dried it that it retain no moisture; And if it bee a breast of Mutton, you may make it be∣come extream white by perboyling of it never so little in the said hot water; And the Meat being well wyped and dryed, you must cut in∣to several peeces about two fingers in thicknesse, and you must also cut the ribs in twain. Thus much for Veal.
But and if it be a Capon, or any o∣ther sort of foul, or any kind of Ven∣son which you intend to put in paste, you may flatten its brest, bruise its bones, and cut some lansements in its brest; Moreover you must cut off its neck, the extremities of its wings and its leggs, and afterwards put the Meat into your Pastie, after which you must season it with your salt spices, and at last you may fill up your Pye with a good lumpe of butter, and with slices of fat bacon, you may also if you please, adde hereunto some Lambs∣stones, Cox-combes, some sparagus,
some Hartichoak stools, some whole boyled yolks of Eggs, or in severall quarters, some Mucherons, some ver∣juice in the grape, and some parsly very small chopt, and also some small sausegees, above all which ingredients you must lay a few slices of fat Bacon, and a good quantity of butter, after which your said Pasty being thus fur∣nished and garnished, you may close it up, and you must wrap it up in brown paper to sustain or uphold the crust, and to hinder it from bursting in the Oven.
You must make a hole in the midst of the Lidde, and after you shall var∣nish or burnish your Pasty, and so you may put it into the Oven, giving it a like heat unto your Pasties, which are to bee served up hot to Table, accord∣ing to the foregoing prescription, and as it shall be more particularly decla∣red in the ensuing Chapter.
These kind of pastys wil be sufficiently baked within an hour and a halfes time more or lesse, according to the bigness of your pastie, as also proportionably
unto the heat of your Oven.
You may also make these kind of Pasties, in a Tart Pann, with a leav∣ed Crust, chiefly if you do garnish it with Pigeons.
To make a Pasty with a sweet Sauce.
NOw in case you do desire to make one of these self same Pasties, and to give it a sweet sauce, you must draw it forth to the Ovens Mouth, by that Time it is half ba∣ked, and you must put a Funnell into the hole which is in the mid∣dle of the said Pasties Lidde, and you shall poure thereinto a glassefull of Hypocrisse well sweetned, or as much as you shall judge requisite according to the bignesse of your Pastie, or otherwise a good quanti∣ty of melted Butter, in which Sugar hath been dissolved, and a little Cin∣namon,
more or lesse of each of them according to the bignesse of your said Pasty.
After which you shall put your said Pastie into the Oven again and shall let it bee well and throughly baked.
To make a Pastie to bee eaten immedi∣ately, being served up hot.
AS for example, take almost a pound weight of Veal, or of fresh Pork, or of Mutton, or of Beef, the brisket of Veal is the most properest peece to make these Pasties of; take likewise one pound of Beef suet, which is fresh, or rather mar∣row, mince or chop all these very small together, and in the choping of them, you may powder them with salt and spices, and after that you may throughly chop them small, you may also if you please mince a
few Leeks, or a little Parsly amongst your said Meat and Suet.
When your meat is thus minced, you may adde thereunto the white and the yolk, or the white alone of a new Egge, and you may the better mingle it with your minced meat with a wooden fork, to the end that the whole composition may bee the better mingled and knitted toge∣ther, unto which you may adde some few Pine-apple seeds or ker∣nels, and currans, in case you bee so minded, or do desire to have your pasty very delicate.
After which you may prepare a paste of fine dough, of a round form, and you may fill it up half full with your minced meat, which having well plained, and pressed close to your Crust, you may lay thereon a few sparagus, or some peeces of Har∣tichoak bottoms, or Muscherons, yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and cut in quarters, some slices of Ox tongues, in case you have them at hand, some sheeps Plucks, some Pistaches,
and such like other Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads, such as you can get, you may also adde thereunto some peeces of marrow amongst your o∣ther Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads; and also Chesnuts half roasted; And in the season, of Verjuice in Grapes, you may adde thereunto about a dozen Grapes, more or less accor∣ding unto the bigness of your Pastie; finally you may proceed to fill up the rest of the Pie with your minced meat, and you may presle it down gently upon your Lamb-stones or Sweet-breads.
In case you make a very high Pasty indeed, you may place therein seve∣rall layes of minced meat, and sea∣son it only (as it hath been already prescribed) with nothing but Jun∣kets, as Lamb-stones, sweet-breads, and the like.
Cover well your said Pastie and wash it, after you shall have made a small hole in the upper part of its Cap or Crown.
Now if so bee the crust of your
Pasty bee very fine and high, you must put a stay of gray course pa∣per, round about the body of your Pasty; this said stay must be fastned to the edge of your Pastie, and rub∣bed with good fresh butter on the side which is to touch your Pasty crust, after which you must put a peece of pack threed to tie it unto the Pastie.
When as your Pastie shall be thus prepared, garnished, stuffed and co∣vered, you may put it into the Oven; Nor needs the Oven to be so very much heated as when you intend to bake greater Pasties; For these kind of Pies will bee sufficiently baked in the space of a good half hour, unless they be extraordinary big; and in case they have a proportionable heat allotted unto them; moreover accor∣ding to the greatnesse or littlenesse of the said Pies, they will require a greater or lesser time to be baked.
Note, that you may very well make one of these Pies in a Tart∣pan, and you may also make the
crust leaved, or very thin if you please.
To make a Pie of Cockney ovall minced Pies.
THese kind of Pies must be made of the brisket of Veal, or like∣wise of other meat minced with Su∣et, and seasoned in the same manner as your former Pies were; where∣fore a Pie of Cockney minced Pies differs only from the foregoing Pies, only that the former are made in a round, and covered with a hovil or high paste; and these latter are flat, uncovered and made after the figure of an Ovall; moreover these Ovall minced Pies have another particu∣lar property, that they must bee sprinkled and seasoned with a white sance, made with Verjuice, and some few yolks of Eggs beaten to∣gether; this sauce is put into an O∣val
mince Pie, when as it is well ba∣ked, after which you must again put your said Pie into the Oven for a∣bout the space of one quarter of an hour, to the end that this said sauce may thicken.
Observe, that you must fasten the meat of your said Ovall mince Pie, and the crust together; that is, you must press it with your fingers close to the crust, but chiefly round the sides, that so your paste may be the firmer and faster.
Now, when as you have prepared your first lay of meat, you must co∣ver it with Sparagus, and with other Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads, a∣mongst which (if so be they are in season) you must put some Spanish or French Chesnuts, half roasted, and some Verjuice in Grapes when it is to bee had, after which you may grate a little Nutmeg over the Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads, and you shall again cover these Lamb∣stones and Sweet-breads with a lay of Minced meat, prepared and sea∣soned
as abovesaid; and after you shall have somewhat pressed the said meat upon the Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads, you may make up the sides of your Pastie, and you may stiffen them by a shoulder of paste which you should adde thereunto on the inside, and you shall make in such a manner, as that it may somewhat overtop the meat; and then you must cut off the said top of paste which doth touch the meat of your Pastie, and adde thereunto some few small puddings or rowles which you shall have purposely prepared of your mince meat, you may also grate a little Nutmeg upon your said Pasty, just as it is in a readiness to be put in∣to the Oven.
Cause your said Pie to bee baked, and when it is almost throughly ba∣ked, you shall draw it to the Ovens mouth, to poure into it the white sauce, of which wee gave you a hint and prescription before, and after that, return your Pie into the Oven again to be perfectly baked.
You may also make one of these Pies in a Tart-pan, and you may al∣so make the Crust of leaved paste as aforesaid.
To make a Pastie or Pie of Lamb stones, Sweet-breads, and other Junkets.
YOu must make use of minced meat to make these Pies as well as the former, and you must season them in the same fashion, as for the foregoing Ovall minced Pies, either to bee kept cold, or those which are to bee served up hot; but you must observe, that in these Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads pies, you must put lesse minced meat than in the others, and more Lamb stones and Sweet∣breads, and also more suet and mar∣row betwixt the layes of the Lamb-stones aad Sweet-breads; And you must garnish the whole with small
rowls or puddings made of the same minced meat, after which you may grate a little Nutmeg over it, after which you may close your pie, and put it into the Oven.
The manner how to make a Tart of Lamb-stones and Sweet∣breads.
YOu must only make the forego∣ing pie in a Tart pan well gar∣nished with all manner of Jun∣kets, and let your crust bee made of leaved paste, which will produce a rare Tart.
Another manner how to make a Tart of minced meat.
TAke either Veal or other good meat which is wel perboyled if it
be a good Capon it is the better, flea it, take out the sinnews and the bones, after which mince the meat thereof very small, and pound it in a Mor∣ter, adde thereunto a little fresh Cheese, and as much old Cheese gra∣ted or shredded very smal, put there∣in six Eggs well beaten, and as much marrow as you shall think fitting, or in stead thereof, as much fat Porke small shreded, adde and mingle these things all together, and season them with salt well powdered, as also with a little spice, or beaten Cinamon.
When you have thus prepared your ingredients, you may put in a Tart-pan a paste of leaved dough, garnish it sufficiently with your pud∣dings or rowls, after which cover it with a lid of paste, make a small hole on the top, and let the said Tart be sufficiently baked.
To make a Pie after the Cardinals manner.
SPread abroad into a little Tart-pan, or in a white lattin square Pie-pan, leaved paste or dough as thick as almost a half Crown, and let it hang over the Tart-pan on all sides, fill up this pasty sufficiently with raw Veal, or any raw Fouls flesh whatsoever, or if you please let it be perboyled; that is to say, let it be above half boyled, and let it bee very small minced, with the self same quantity of Marrow, or Beef suet, and let this composition be seasoned with salt spices; you may likewise adde thereunto some Pine-apple kernels, and a few Currans, as also a few morsels of the yolks of Eggs hard boyled.
When as this your said pie shall be well garnished & filled, you must curiously cover it with a crust of lea∣ved
paste, and then cause it to be put into the Oven.
Some Pastrie men do put Sugar into these kind of Pies, as also a sweet sauce when as they are half baked; moreover if these pies bee but little ones, you may cause them to be ba∣ked in a little brass Oven which is portable.
The manner to make a Pastie according to the English manner.
TAke a young Hare which is ve∣ry tender, which is uncased; take off all its skin, cut off its head, and feet, flatten its stomack, and beat the said Hares flesh also very well, to the end that it may become the shorter, make little slashes in the back and thighs of the said Hare, but let them be long and deep enough; or else if you please you may cut the said Hare all in peeces, and afterwards
lard the flesh thereof with small sli∣ces of fat Bacon.
When your Hare shal be thus pre∣pared, you must make your Pasty of a sufficient bignesse, and let it bee at least two good inches thick, place it upon a sheete of paper, and upon the end of your said pasty, you must place a lay of Marrow, or of beef su∣et, or of fat bacon very small shred∣ed; this lay or bed must bee as long and as broad as the whole Hare, and season this lay of marrow and suet with salt spices, after which you may lay the Hare upon this bed of mar∣row, with its belly downwards and if so bee you have cut the said Hare all asunder, you must place all the several parts in their proper places again, after which you must season the said Hare with salt spices, and on the top of the said Hare you must again place a lay of marrowor suet Minced, and afterwards gar∣nish your said Pye with Lambs∣stones and sweet-breads of all sorts, with Currans, with Pine-kernells,
well washed, with the ryne of Lem∣mons preserved, cut in small slices; adde hereunto likewise small mor∣cels of marrow, Muscherons, Pista∣ches, if you have any Calves reignes, Cocks combs perboyled, the yolks of hard Eggs, quartered, or whole, and Capers, if there be any to bee had.
You must mingle all these Lambs∣stones and sweet-breads together, and season them with a little salt spices, and after all these Lambs stones and Sweet breads, shall bee placed upon the Hare; You may cover it with a slight lay of minced suet, and put some few slices of fat Bacon upon it, upon which you may spred all over half a pound of fresh butter, which you must place upon the whole, and above the butter you must put a good thumping handfull of su∣ger.
When your Pye shall bee thus prepared, and furnished, cover the hole with the other end of your paste which remained unused; and
when your pye shall bee well cove∣red and fashioned, you must wash it on the outside or burnish it, and so cause it to bee put into the Oven upon a sheet of paper, and have a care not to break it.
After this pye shall have been in the Oven, for the space of one half houre, you must make a hole in the middle of the upper crust, that so it may not burn; And you must keep the Oven as if it were for a Turky-pye.
This said pye may be very well ba∣ked in two hours time.
Some Curious pallats do steep half a grain of Musk with a drop or two of Rose-water, and do poure it into the said Pye in their filling of it up, but the sent of the Musk doth for the most part ostend the Female sex, and some Males too; where∣fore it is far better omitted; and deemed best not at all to put in a∣ny.
When this your Pye shall be well baked, you must draw it forth of the
Oven, and you shall spread gently upon the crust thereof, frosty su∣ger, which may bee done with a knife, or with the back of a silver spoon, and this said frosty Suger, must be as thin almost as a sheet of paper.
So soon as your said Pye shall bee washed, or burnisht with this Frost, you must put it again into the Ovens Mouth, for the space of a half quar∣ter of an hour, to make the said frost drye; And you must note that the heat must bee very moderate, that so the said Frost may remain white, for if the Oven should prove to bee over hot, the said Frost would turn red or yellow, as soon therefore as your said Frost is dryed, you must draw your Pasty out of the Oven, and you must serve it up to the Ta∣ble as speedily as you can, least that your Pye should take cold, and that as then the frost should melt.
To make a Pasty according to the Sweisses fashion.
MAke a Pasty of half leaved Dough, and make the crust at least an Inch thick, put into the bot∣tome thereof a good handfull of minced veal with suet, after which you may garnish your said Pye with a Hare, or Conny, cut asunder; sea∣son the meat thereof with salt spy∣ces, adde good store of Spanish Ches-nuts thereunto, Muscherons, a Leek, or an Onion bruised, or cut in quarters, and some sorts of Junkets, if they are to be had, after which, place theron a handful ofmin∣ced veal, with suet, and six or 7 rouls of veal, afterwards one half pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of ma∣row and a quarter of a pound of beef suet minced, and Lastly, Some few slices of fat Bacon on the Top of all.
When this your pye shall bee well garnished and furnished, you must cover it with a lidde of leaved paste, as thick as the half of the little finger, wash or burnish the said lidde, and make a hole in the middle of it; after which you shall do well to lap up all your said pye in a Buttered paper, which must bee as high as the pasty it self, and you must tye on the said paper that it may not fall off.
Put your pye into the Oven upon a white paper, and give it an indiffe∣rent heat, as for a Custard.
The said pye will require at least two houres baking.
To make a passing delicate Giblet Pie.
YOu must cause your Giblets or Offalls of all kind of fowl to be very well picked, and cleansed, as for
example, the necks which are cut in∣to morcels, the wings, the gizzards, and livers; out of all which you must take al that is bitter; wash all these se∣veral parcels very well in 3 or 4 se∣veral waters, and afterwards let them dry and drop out again; you may likewise cut into moreels the Lights and Livers of a Lamb, or of a sucking pig, after you have taken that which is bitter out of them; that is to say, the Gall; and you must have a care well to wash the said Geather after you have cut the same into peeces.
Afterwards you must put these several peeces into a clean wooden platter, and season them well with salt spices, with Parsly, and with Ba∣con small sliced or minced; Hereun∣to you may adde some few Musche∣rons, and verjuice in Grapes when they are in season, or Cardus roots, or Sparagus, or else some Harti∣choak bottoms cut into small sli∣ces.
When all these ingredients shall be in a readinesse, you may make
up your paste or dough, which must be made of very fine meal, and you must give it a thicknesse of about half a Crown, more or lesse, accor∣ding to the bigness of your Pastie, which you must afterwards fill with the Giblets aforenamed, being sea∣soned in the self same manner as it hath been already prescribed; upon which Giblets you must place some slices of fat Bacon, and a good lump of fresh Butter, which you must spread according to the bignesse of your said Pastie.
Put a lid of paste upon your said Pie, and wash, or burnish it, and if so be you think it fitting, you may wrap it in a sheet of paper well rub∣ed with butter; forget not to make a hole in the lid of the Pie, and cause your said Pastie to be put into the Oven, and when it is baked you must poure a little white sauce into it through a Funnel, after which you must put your Pie into the Oven again for a pretty while, untill the sauce or liquor thereof (which must
bee composed of the yolks of Eggs, beaten with a little Verjuice or Vine∣ger) be well thickned or come to a competent body, after which you must draw it for good and all.
To make a Mince Pie according to the Italian fashion, with leaved or fine Paste.
PRepare your leaved or fine paste, and give it an inch thick∣ness, in the bottom whereof you shall place a lay of about a hand full of minced Veal and Suet together, unto which you may adde three Par∣tridges, or old Pigeons, having cut off their feet and leggs, the wings and necks, and beaten the breasts flat, which said fowl you shall lard in se∣veral places in the self same manner as it was prescribed in the larding of a Venson Pastie; after which you may season them with your salt spi∣ces,
And put unto them peeled Ches∣nuts, Pine apple kernels and currans, a little handfull of each, three yolks of Eggs hard boyled, and cut through the middle, a small quan∣tity of beaten Cinnamon, and a quarter and a half a pound of Su∣gar; a slice or two of preserved Lem∣mon peel, and hereunto you may adde some Mouscherons, and Lamb∣stones and Sweet-breads, if they are to be had; And if so be you are not minded to put Partridges or Pige∣ons into your said Pie, you may make the same of any other meat; as for example, a Conny cut into se∣veral peeces, and well larded.
Moreover to keep a better nou∣rishment, or to augment the meat of this your Pastie, you may adde un∣to all these ingredients one handfull of minced Veal, with Marrow, or Suet, a quarter of a pound of each, and some slices of fat Bacon on the top of the whole; which said Pastie being thus well filled up, you must cover the same with a lid of leaved
or thin paste, not above the thickness of your little finger, or thereabouts, wash or varnish your said lid, and make a hole in the top of your said lid.
Observe, that you must of neces∣sitie wrap your whole Pastie in a but∣tered paper, which must be as high as your said Pastie, and you must tye it about your pie with packthred, to preserve your Pastie the better. After which, cause your pie to be put into the Oven, being placed upon a sheet of white paper, and you must give your Oven an indifferent warm harth, as you are used to do unto a Custard; This Pastie will require at least two houres and a half ba∣king.
When your said Pie is almost ba∣ked, you must cause it to be drawn forth of the Oven, and you must poure thereinto with a Funnel, through the hole which you had left in the lid, a sweet sauce, made with a quarter of a pound of Sugar, and almost a quarter of a pinte of white
wine, whereinto you must infuse a little Cinnamon powdered; After which you must put your Pie into the Oven again, and there leave it at least half an hour to thicken the said sweet sauce.
To make small minced Pies according to the Spanish fashion.
YOu must make your paste very fine, and to one pinte of flower, adde four yolks of Eggs thereunto, and when your said paste shall bee thus prepared, you shall form the crust of your little minced Pies, not above two sheets of paper in thick∣nesse, or a little more, according to the bignesse of your Pies, and you shall fill them up with the following minced meat. Viz.
Mince very small all the flesh of a Capon, a quarter of a pound of fresh Porck, and a quarter of a pound of
Mutton, two Calves kidneys, a quantity of fat Bacon, good mar∣row and Beef Suet, of each one a quarter of a pound, a few Leeks or Onions, and great store of Mousche∣rons, both salt and sweet spices at dif∣cretion; All which ingredients you must mince together.
You must garnish, or fill your pies with these minced meats, and after that, make up your Pies with fine flower lids wrought; and having washed or burnisht your said lids, you may cause these your little Spa∣nish minced pies to bee well and throughly baked.
To make small minced Pies according to the Princesse fashion.
TAke sugared paste and make lit∣tle pie pastes of them in the least form, which you can possibly make, you must make up these in little
Tart-pans in the same manner as you would make your pies according to the Cardinals manner; Fill up these little pies with perboyled or rosted flesh which is very tender, as the flesh of a Capon very small minced, together with some Marrow of Beef, being well se asoned with salt spices; you may adde hereunto Sweet∣breads, Cox-combs, and such other like Junkets, as Mouscherons boyled in Butter, and the like.
When your little Princesse Pies shall bee thus filled up, you must cover them with the same paste, and afterwards you may cause them to bee baked, giving them an indiffe∣rent warm harth; And you must observe, that one quarter of an hours time will bake them sufficiently.
To make a Carp or any other fish Pie, Venson Pastie-like, to be eaten cold.
TAke a fair large Carp, or any other fish that is large and big; and if it bee a scale fish, you must scrape off the scales; and afterwards gut it; some kind of fishes there are which you must flea like as you do Eeles,
After you have thus gutted the fish, you may also take out its lungs which is nought to bee eaten either boyled, baked or stewed.
Your fish being thus prepared, you must lance it well, and deep on the back, and afterwards lard your fish, with lard made of her wings, or sli∣ces of Eeles, and out of Lent or Em∣ber weeks you may also lard your fish with sat Bacon, as you do flesh.
You must not forget to take out of your fish the Milters, and Rows which you shall find in their bellies.
Now when your fish is thus through∣ly prepared you may then form, or raise a paste two or three inches thick; And if so be you have a great fish to put in paste, you must bee sure to make our pastie long and broad e∣nough; After which you must place upon one of the ends of your said paste, a lay of fresh Butter which must bee proportioned to the length of your fish; which you must pow∣der with salt spices, and afterwards you shall place your fish upon the said lay of Butter; so likewise must you powder your said fish, both within its belly, and without, all a∣bout it with your salt spices; as also put into its belly a lay of Butter, and afterwards on the top of your said fish, place another lay of Butter, to∣gether with some few Bay-leaves; you must place the Milters and Rows of your said fish on either side of it in the said Pastie; and be sure to spice them well; you must salt your said pie according to your own dis∣cretion and judgement, and when
you have thus seasoned it, you must close your pie, and to this end re∣double or cover over your said fish, with the other end of your paste which you had left empty; After which you must wash or varnish your said Pie with lean varnish, in case it bee in Lent; that is to say, a varnish made without Eggs.
Put this Pie into the Oven, and after it shall have been half an hour therein you must make a little hole in the upper crust, and afterwards you must return it into the Oven again, to have it fully baked.
Observe, That such a Pie as this of a great fish, will require at least three houres baking; especially if your Pie be any thing big; And when you shall judge that your said Pie is almost baked, you shall cause it to bee drawn out of the Oven; And you must try with a little stick which you may put into the hole which you have left on the top of your Pie, whether or no your liquor or sauce doth swim above the fish;
For that in case your sauce chances to bee too much consumed, as it doth oftentimes happen, you must as then cause some butter to be mel∣ted, which you must season with your salt spices, and afterwards poure it into your Pie through a Funnel, to augment the sauce which shall have been consumed, as afore∣said.
One day after this your said Pastie shall have been baked, you must stop the hole which you have made before in the lid thereof; And the which you may easily do with a little paste which you may put thereinto; And thus your said Pie will keep for a good while, till such time as you shall have occasion to eat it.
To make a fish Pie, covered or uncove∣red, which said Pie must be eaten hot.
TAke what kind of Fish soever you please, as for example, a Carp, or an Eele, or a Tench, or a Roche, fit and prepare them in the same manner as we have prescribed you in the foregoing Chapter, save an Eele, that you must not lard them.
Some are of Opinion, that it is best to perboyle the Fish in hot water, after it shall have been prepared and accommodated, especially if the said Fish bee slimy or gravelly, as your Tenches or Eeles are; which must bee done before you put them into the Paste; which is al∣so practised by the Pastry Men; for you must note that in case you put Raw Fish into Paste it will make your Pye burst.
When as your fish shall bee thus prepared, you must also make rea∣dy your Paste of fine or leaved dough, and you must proportion it to the length and height of your Fish; And you must also observe, that all Fish Pyes are commonly made Oval-wise; However you must al∣so observe, that the crust of such like Pyes is not usually made so very fine as the others, that is to say, you must not put so much butter in the Dough, especially when you intend to make the said Pyes open because that otherwise the crust would easi∣ly fall down, and your sauce would bee spilt, the crust must bee about the thickness of two or three half crowns at least.
You must therefore observe not to make the paste of your said fish Pyes so very thinne, and that your good Pastry men do knead it with hot water, to make it the firmer; and when you shall have made up your crust for a fish Pye, which is to bee open or uncovered, you must leave
it in the ayre for the space of an hour or two, that so it may become firm before you put your fish into it.
And you must proportion the greatnesse of your Crust unto the bignesse of the fish which you do in∣tend to put into it; And after your said Pasty crust shall bee well thick∣ned and firmed, you shall place in the bottome of it, a lay of fresh but∣ter; and you must powder it with your salt spices, and so lay your fish upon it; which you must have lan∣ced in the fleshiest parts before you put it into the said Paste, And in case you have cut your fish in Morcels, you must have a care to place the said peeces in their proper places, and if your Pye bee made Ovall∣wise, as then put a lay of butter in the fishes belly, and another lay on the top of your said fish, after which season it with your said salt spices, you may also lay at your fishes sides the Rowes and Milters, and you must also powder them with your
salt spices, you may also adde unto your said Pye, Pine-apple kernells, Currans, Muscherons, Capers, and Pomgranats, small pieces of Harti∣choak stooles, or such other like jun∣kets, in case they are to bee had, and some new verjuice in grapes, some who are more curious do adde here∣unto Oysters, which are perboyled in seething water; And you must have a great care above all things that your Pastie be not over excessively salted.
Moreover in case your crust bee very fine, or that you apprehend that it may chance to fall when it is in the Oven, when your said pa∣sty shall be well moistned with your melted butter, you must as then swathe it without, and you may also put a double swathe of paper in the inside of your Pasty before you fill it up. The swathes must be made of double paper, and must bee well rubbed with butter, and you must also not fail to tye them on the out∣sides with good Packthread.
Put your Pye into the Oven, and take care that the crust thereof, do not fall down neither of one side nor of the other; And in case it should chance to fall down on any side, you must as then gently heave it up a∣gain with an Oven Peel.
When your Pye shall bee half ba∣ked, you must draw it to the Ovens mouth, to poure butter and verjuvce into it, or else you may put into it two ounces of peeled Al∣monds which shall have been pounded, or reduced to milk, with a little verjuice, after which you must put the Pye into the Oven a∣gain.
Moreover, these Fish-pyes which are uncovered, may bee very well baked in an houre, or an hour and a halfs time, provided that they bee of a middle size.
Observe that in case you bee minded to put a whole Eele in paste, and to make an open pasty of it, you must open it, and cut it at every four inches length or thereabouts,
for if so bee you do not break it, it wil prick it self up in the baking, and in its stretching it self forth, it may chance to break your Pasty and so spoil it, wherefore its better to cut it into morcels, as long as you please your self.
You may also make these fish∣pyes covered, and to this purpose you must make your Pasty large and long enough, to make your Pasty all of a peece, in the same manner as you do make a Venson-pasty.
When your Pasty shall bee thus prepared, you must place on one of the ends thereof a lay of fresh but∣ter; season it with spices, and place your fish ready dressed upon it; and when your Pye shall bee thus fully stuffed, you may cover it with the other end of your paste which you shall have left empty, after which you must make a hole on the top of the Lidde, as it hath been formerly said, in the Chapter which treateth of the Venson-pasties.
Observe Moreover, that some∣times
you may make round fish∣pyes, or others, like unto your mince-pyes to bee eaten hot; And these like Pyes must bee also covered as it hath been before alledged, and the fish which you do intend to put therein must be also cut in peeces as aforesaid.
To make Minced Fish-Pyes, the bones and grissels being taken out.
TAke as much fine dough as your own judgement and experience will guide you to, which said Paste you must make as fine as your min∣ced pyes, or Cockney-Pyes, and prepare and shape your pasty or Pyes in the same manner as your Cardi∣nall Fasties are made: And in case you make them like unto your min∣ced Pyes, you must remember to make your crust a little thicker in
the bottome then else where.
When your pasty is gotten in a readinesse, you must first line it with a slender lay of butter, after which you shall fill your Pye up half way with minced Carp, or of other Fish which is seasoned in the same man∣ner, as wee shall hereafter pre∣scribe.
After which you must place upon your minced fish, some few Lenten Sweet-breads and Junkets; As for example some morcels of Har∣tichoak stools, or of perboyled Spa∣ragus, or Carps Tongues boyled in good broath, or Chesnuts half roa∣sted; And out of Lent you may put therein some of the yolks of Eggs, hard boyled, so likewise on gaudy dayes, you may adde thereunto some morcels of marrow.
When your Pie shall be thus re∣plenished with Lamb-stones and Sweet-breads, you must adde ano∣ther morcel of Butter thereunto, and although you should not chance to put any Lamb-stones and Sweet∣breads
at all in your said Pie, yet you must not fail to place a lay of Butter upon the first minced fish;
After which you may proceed to fill up your Pie to the very top with your minced fish, upon the top of all which you must again place a lay of Butter, and if so bee your pies bee made in a round form like unto your hot minced Pies; you must adde un∣to them a lid of paste like unto a pi∣nacle which you must place upon the top, and afterwards you must wash or varnish your said Pie lid.
Put these Pies into the Oven, and given them an indifferent warm harth as you do in the baking of your small minced Pies.
And in case you intend to make these minced fish Pies uncovered, af∣ter they shall have been baked, you may adde unto them a sweet sauce; And if it bee upon a flesh day, you may adde thereunto the gravy of a joynt of Mutton, or of any other peece of Roste meat, or else a white sauce made of the yolks of raw Eggs
beaten together with a little Ver∣juice.
After which you must put your Pie into the Oven again, for a little while, that so it may partake of the taste of the said sauce, and like∣wise the said sauce may have time to thicken; But you must observe not to make these minced Pies of fish too big, for that else you will not be able to handle them, nor order them well; And therefore you had better make them in the manner of Tarts, and bake them in a Tart-pan, ma∣king them up in a paste or dough ve∣ry thin, and as we formerly called it, a leaved paste.
The manner how to unbone your fish, and to prepare a good mince meat of fish, where withall to fill up and garnish your Pies.
THe best way to make a minced meat of fish, is in the first place to scale your fish if it be needfull; and afterwards to peel it, that is, to flea it, and afterwards to gut it, and to take all out of its belly, as well the Milters and the soft Rows, as the blood; after which you must take out the bones, that is to say, you must separate the fish from the bones, and you must also take away the small bones which are mingled and interlaced betwixt the fishes flesh; Moreover you must bee very exact in taking out the said bones, which may bee performed by slicing your fish into severall morcels, and taking the bones out of them with a knife;
As for example in a Carp, But by reason that this way or manner of unboneing a fish is hard and some∣what difficult, and that also the flesh of your fish being put into your Pies raw, will make them burst; it is therefore necessary that you cause your fish thus to be unboned.
When your fish is scaled and strip∣ped, you must plunge it into water, which is almost boyling hot, and let it steep therein more or lesse ac∣cording unto the thicknesse of your said fish; and you may know when it is time to draw it forth of the said water, which you may do, when you may easily separate the fish from the bones, and in this manner you will easily unbone your fish; But whereas the hot water doth take a∣way part of the fishes taste, and sub∣stance, you must therefore cause it to bee boyled in a thin broath, and after you shall have suffered your said fish to have become cold in the said thin broath, that so it may partake of the taste of it, you may
easily separate the flesh from the bones of the fish.
Having thus separated the bones from the fish, you must place it upon a table, adding thereunto a little Parsly, some Salt, and a few Mus∣cherons cut in slices, and a few spices, and if you have a mind to have your said Pies be sweet, you may adde unto them a few Currans, and some Pine-apple kernels, well wash∣ed; All which ingredients you must mince together, and when your minced fish is thus prepared, you may fill up your Pies therewith, as it hath been already described.
Now if you have any minced fish remaining over and above, you may put it into a Porrenger with some Butter and an Onion, or with a Leek, and cause them to bee all boyled to∣gether, and whilest they are a boy∣ling, you must now and then stir them, and adde unto them a few Capers, and a little thin broath if you have any, and at the latter end a lit∣tle Verjuice.
When your said minced fish is thus boyled, and that your sauce is become savoury, you must take out your Onion or Leek, and you must grate a small quantity of Nutmeg upon your said minced meat, in case you have put no spices into it be∣fore.
You may also adde unto your said minced fish some slices of fryed bread, as also a quantity. of Almane, or Dutch sauce, in case you have not any thing broath to put into it.
And the better to disguise your minced fish, you may mince amongst it some yolks and whites of Eggs hard boyled, or else you may adde thereunto some gravy of a joynt of Mutton, or of any other good meat.
Moreover, in case you desire to make any Chitterlings or Links of your said minced fish; take your said minced fish before it bee per boyled in Butter, and sprinkle it with the white of an Egge, or with a little Verjuice, or a little white Wine, after which
you must press or squeeze your min∣ced fish in your hands, to incorpo∣rate it in the manner of Chitterlings, after which you may cause them to be baked in the same manner as your minced Pies.
Some do cause their minced fish to bee perboyled before they do maketheir Pies of them, but when once the minced fish happens to bee perboyled, it becomes too too flashy, or washy by reason of the sauce which is added thereunto.
To make little minced Pies of Fish with Oyl, in stead of Butter, to be eaten in Lent.
MAke up your paste with Oyl as aforesaid, and make up small Pies of the same in Tart-pans, un∣lesse you had rather make up your little Pies as they are to bee eaten hot.
When your paste shall be thus prepared, you may replenish them with the minced parts of Carps, or Pikes, Perches, or Soles, or Whitings, or any such like excellent fish boyled in a good thin broath; & let this your minced fish, bee well chopped with a little parsly and Pine-apple ker∣nells; and a few Anchoves well wa∣tered, whereunto you may adde some Muscherons boyled in butter, and let all these things bee well min∣ced together, and season these your said minced meat with salt spy∣ces.
Now when this your minced Fish, together with the aforesaid ingredients, shall bee well chopped and mingled together, you must adde thereunto, a reasonable quan∣tity of pure and sweet Oyle, which you must cause to bee refined in the self same manner as it hath been pre∣scribed in the Chapter which treats of Pies baked with Oyle; And when your minced-meat shall bee thus prepared, you may fill your Paste
therewith, after which you must cover your Pies with a Lidde made of the self same paste kneaded with Oyle, varnish it, and cause these your Pyes to bee baked, but let them have an indifferent warm harth.
Moreover, Those who do not love or affect Oyle, may instead thereof, use butter in the making of your said Pyes.
The manner how to make a March-Pain wafer.
SUppose you intend to im∣ploy half a peck or therea∣bouts of wheaten flower, to make a March-Pain, you must take a∣bout the bignesse of two Hennes Eggs of leaven and place the third part, or thereabouts, of your flow∣er, upon a clean dresser board.
Make a ridge or Fountain in the middle of your Meal, put your
leaven therein, and dissolve it ex∣actly with hot water, by kneading of it with your hands, after which you must mingle your meal with the leaven you have thus dissolved in the water, and you must put such a quantity of water therein, as will suffice to knead your said Paste, untill it becomes very soft, and you must not leave it un∣till it be very supple; Now when your paste shall bee sufficiently kneaded as aforesaid, in such a man∣ner as that there bee no Clots re∣maining in it, you must cover it o∣ver, and place it in a warm place, where no Ayre nor cold can enter, just as if you had prepared Dough to make bread withall.
You must leave your said paste for the space of two or three houres in this kind, especially in summer, that so this your paste may bee the better united and setled, but if it be in a cold season, as in winter, you will need five or six houres time, to prepare and fit this your leaven.
You must also have an eye on your paste now and then, and when you shall perceive that it is swollen up, and as if it were split on the top, you must as then place on your knea∣ding board the rest of your half peck of flower, make a pretty good Trench in the middle of your said flower, and put therein a little warm water, wherein you shall have dislol∣ved half a quarter of a pound of Salt, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, put also into the said Trench all your former paste, and mingle it all together, and reduce it to Dough, but you must observe not to make it so soft as your first paste was.
Mould and knead throughly this your said paste, and afterwards make it up into the form of a great Loaf of bread, immediately after which you must cover it, that it may not take cold, and become flag∣gy.
Leave all your said paste in this manner, for the space of one half
hour, after which you may make it into a rowl, or you may place it up∣on your kneading board, which you must have first powdered with a lit∣tle flower, to the end that your Dough may not stick upon it, after which you must make your march∣pain wafer, which you must varnish both without and within side, you must also prick your march∣pain with a sharpe pointed skuer in several places, both without and within, that it may not puff and swell.
When you shall have thus shaped your March-pain, you must place it upon a peel, which is big enough to contain it; And you must have a special care not to crack your March-pain, when you put it into the Oven.
There will bee a little half hours time, requisite for to bake such a March-pain of the bignesse of half a peck of flower or thereabouts, and your Oven must bee a little more heated, than when you intend to
bake houshold bread.
And you may know when your March-pain is baked, by the same observation which you use to know when your bread is baked.
Take notice that several Pastry∣men or Cooks, do imploy yeast, or the Scum of Beer in the March-pain which they do make, instead of putting real and true leaven into them, which they do, because that the yeast or Scum of beer, doth make their paste or dough sooner work and rise, and doth make their March-pains shew the better, and eat the tenderer, although they are not so wholesome nor yet so tooth∣some.
Observe also, that when you do intend to make a very great March-pain, you must rowle your paste with a great wooden Rowling pin several times, too and again; to ren∣der your paste the more supple and plyable to your hand.
To make a March-Pain far more deli∣cate, which is usually at Paris, called a Cousen or Ne∣pheew, and in other places it is called a Kindnesse or a Contril.
PRepare your leaven as it is pre∣scribed in the foregoing Chapter, with one third part of half a peck of fine flower, and when you shall have thus made it into paste, you may take the rest of your half peck of flo∣wer, into which make a Trench as aforesaid, warm a quarter of a pinte of water, or rather of milk, to the end that this your March-pain or Co••tril may bee the finer and tende∣rer, cause two ounces of salt, and one pound of butter, to bee melted in the said Milk, and poure it into the midst of your flower, adde thereun∣to
one half pound of Cheese made of milk which was not uncreamed, and if you will adde thereunto three or four Eggs dissolved and beaten in a little milk, adde your leaven to the whole, and let it bee altogether well mingled and throughly knead∣ed.
When you shall have thus well worked and kneaded your paste, you must shape it, as in the forego∣ing Chapter, afterwards you must cover it, and you must let it rest for the space of an half hour, and then you may form a March-pain or Contler of it, which you must both varnish and prick before you do put it into the Oven.
When it is in the Oven, you must bee sure to let it bake longer than the former, because it is made of a finer dough, and that the paste of it is better stuffed, or hath more in∣gredients in it.
The manner to make a Cream-Tart, according to the Pastrymens usu∣all form and manner.
PRepare a Coffin of fine, or of leaved paste, & fit it in a tart-pan Observe that it will bee requisite to have your Copper Tart panns, trimed and glased within side, that so your Pye or Tart Crusts may not stick to your Tart Pannes, and that they may not receive any ill or of∣fensive sent or taste from the Coper.
You must also have a care that the bottome of your Tart pannes, be smooth, and that there be no rigs or flaws in them; that so the bottome of your Pyes and tarts, may not stick to the bottome of your Tart-pan.
Observe also that with your thumb you must spread a little butter gently in the bottome, & round about your Tart-pan, in case your Crust bee not very thin and leaved paste, that so it stick not to the tart-pan in baking.
You must also butter the inside of
a tart-pan, when you intend to bake any Pastry meat, fish, or fle shin it, which hath no crust at all, as for ex∣ample an Homelet made with bread.
Now when your Pye Coffin, is made of leaved paste, it will not bee needfull to butter the bottome of your Tart panne with butter, but it will suffice to powder it gently in the inside with a little mea•• flower, that so your Pye Coffin may not stick to the Tart-pan.
When you shall have put your Pye Coffin into the Tart-pann, you must set in a dish over some Char∣coals to be melted, as for example, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter for an indifferent big Tart, and when it is thus melted you must put into it about the bignesse of three Eggs of Pastry mens Cream, one good hand∣full of suger, a little Cinamon powdered, and a little Rose-wa∣ter, a few Currans may bee also ad∣ded, Pine apple-kernells, and smal slices of Lemmon peels comfited.
You must mingle all these prepa∣ratives
together, and fill up your pasty Coffin therewith, the Crust whereof must bee of the thicknesse of about half a Crown, and after this your Tart shall bee sufficiently filled up, you must cover it over with slices of paste separated the one from the other, at a pretty distance.
This Tart will not need above one quarter of an hours time baking; and when it is almost or quite baked, you must draw it out of the Oven to powder it with some Sugar; After which you must put it into the O∣ven again for a while, that the Su∣gar may become glased or frosty; and then draw it for good and all, and sprinkle it with a little Rose-water.
Observe thus much in generall, that whensoever you intend to put any Currans or Pine-apple kernels in your Pies or Tarts, you must well pick and wash them before-hand.
Observe also, that in case you cause a Tart or any other peece of Pastry work which is made up in a Tart-pan to bee baked in an Oven,
you must somtimes draw forth your Tart-pan out of the Oven, and place it on a fire of Charcoals or wood.
Observe also, that in case you cause a peece of Pastry to be baked in a Tart-pan upon the hot Cinders or Embers; without putting of it in∣to an Oven; The border of your Pa∣stry work must bee lower than the border of your Tart-pan; and you must cover your Tart-pan with a sufficient Copper lid or cover, upon the top of which you must lay hot Cinders, and a few kindled Embers or Charcoals, more or less according to the bigness and thicknesse of your Pastrie peece; for you must note, that there must bee fire both above and under your Tart pan, when as you cause any peece of Pastry work to be baked in a Tart-pan by the fire in the Chimney corner without the put∣ting of it into an Oven.
The manner how to make another ex∣cellent Cream-Tart.
YOu must gently rub your Tart-pan with a little good fresh But∣ter; After which garnish your Tart-Pan with a Coffin of fine, or leaved paste, and you shall fill up your said Coffin to the brims with Pastry mens Cream, whereunto you may adde the bignesse of an Egge or two, of ex∣cellent fat Bacon or lard, grated with a grater, or shredded with a knife; In the same manner adde some small slices of preserved Lemmon peels cut into small shredds; After which you shall only need to fashion or shape the Lidde or Cover of your Tart, which you must make of small slices of Dough as aforesaid, and after∣wards cause it to be put into the O∣ven.
When your said Tart shall bee thus baked, you may powder it with
Sugar, and you must afterwards put it for a while into the oven again; af∣ter which having drawn it for good and all, you may sprinkle it with some Rose-water.
The manner to make a Tart of marrow of Beef, or marrow bones.
TAke a quarter of a pound of Beef marrow, break it in peeces into little morfels betwixt your fin∣gers, and reduce it to the smalnesse of a hasel Nut, adde thereunto the like quantity of powder Sugar, and two yolks of Eggs, a small quantity of salt spices, some Pine-apple ker∣nels, some Currans, and the rinde of a Lemmon small shred, adde thereunto likewise some Naples Bis∣ket, or Macaroons or peeled and bea∣ten Almons, or about the bigness of an Egg of grated whitebread, mingle all these things together
with a fork or spoon, And when you have prepared all these ingredients, you must fill up your Pastie or Tart Coffin therewith, and put it into your Tart-pan; After which you may either close your Tart quite up on the top, or else you may cover it with a lid of paste, which is pricked and transparent in several parts.
Cause your Tart to be baked, and after that powder it with some Su∣gar, and put it into the Oven again for a little while.
The manner to make a Tart of Bacon.
GRate or shred fat Bacon or lard with a grater or knife, or do but mince it very small; you may al∣so let it steep a while in fair water, and afterwards you shall weigh out a quarter of a pound thereof, adde thereunto the like quantity of pow∣der
Sugar, and two yolks of Eggs, a little salted spice, about the third part of a leaf of Lemmon peel, and about the bignesse of an Egg of grated white bread, or else Macaroons, or much about the like quantity of pee∣led and beaten Almons, with a lit∣tle Rose-water; or else in lieu of any one of these ingredients, you may put a good spoonfull of Pastrie mens Cream, for that this is very good in all kind of Tarts, mingle all these ingredients together, unto which you may also adde a few Currans, and some Pine-apple kernels; And when you have prepared this com∣position, you shall fill up therewith a Tart-Coffin fitted to your Tart-pan, after which you may fashion & make up your Tart, and cause it to be ba∣ked, after which you must powder it with Sugar, and must again return it into the Oven, where leaving it while being again drawn, you shall be∣sprinkle it with a little Rose-water.
The manner to make a Veal kidney Tart.
WHen your kidney of Veal is well roasted, you may take the Kidney, together with the fat that is about it, and mincing them very small, you must season them in the same manner you were to do your Beef Marrow; To all which you may adde one spoonfull of fine Pa∣stry mens Cream.
Fill therewith a Pastie Coffin pla∣ced in a Tart-pan, cover this Tart with a Pasty lid which is pricked and carved; After which cause your Tart to be baked, and after it is well baked, you must put some Sugar and Rose water into it, as in the forego∣ing Chapter it is particularly expres∣sed.
You may also make a Tart of Calves Tongues in the self same manner as you do the Kidneys Tart
The manner to make an Egge Tart.
FIt your Tart-pan with a Pastie Coffin of fine leaved dough, into which strow one handfull of fine powder Sugar, and you must cut in sunder the yolks of about twenty hard Eggs, more or less, according to the bigness you intend to make your Tart of, range these half of the yolks of Eggs in your Tart-pan, on the top of your strowed Sugar, and when that lay of Eggs shall bee well fur∣nished, you may stick five or six Cloves on five or six of the said yolks of Eggs; after which you may pow∣der the said lay of Eggs with a little beaten Cinnamon, adde thereunto as much preserved Lemmon peele as you please, you may also adde some Pine-apple kernels, and a few Currans. Over all this preparative, strow a good handfull of Sugar, and
lay a good lump of fresh butter over it; As for example, half a quarter of a pound of Butter spreaded and playned upon the top of the Sugar.
Cover this your Tart with small slices of paste, and afterwards you may cause it to bee baked in the same manner as you bake your other Tarts, and after it is well baked, you may strow it with Sugar, and put it into the Oven again for a trice only, when as having drawn it again, you may besprinkle it with some Rose∣water.
The manner to make a Tart of Herbs, or a Tansie in Paste.
TAke two handfulls of sweet herbs as for example, beet herbs, or Let∣tesses, Mallows, Spinnage, and pull off the stalks, after which wash your herbs, and let them steep a while in some seeding water to mortifie them,
that is, to take the earthy sent and taste from them; After which you must drye them, and press them wel between your hands, or betwixt two Trenchers, that so they may be∣come very drye.
Afterwards chop your said herbs very small, and pound them in a Morter, and put the bignesse of two Eggs of them into a Porrenger, with about the bigness of an Egg, or a little more of good fresh Butter, rea∣dy melted, adde thereunto a good handfull of powder Sugar, or more if you please, and season this your pre∣parative with a small quantity of sweet spice, as much beaten Cinna∣mon, and a little salt, you must also adde thereunto about the bignesse of a Hens Egg of white bread crum grated very small, as much dry Na∣ples Bisket, or in lieu thereof two Macaroons, or a few sweet Almons pilled and beaten in a Morter, adde thereunto likewise about the third part of a side of a preserved Lem∣mon being sliced into small bits, and
about the bigness of two Eggs of the Pastry-mens Cream; you may also adde thereunto the yolk of a raw egge, or else the bigness of an egge of green Cheese, which was made before the Cream was taken off from the Milk; whereunto you may moreover adde a few Pine-apple kernels, and a few Currans, chiefly in the winter season, and in Lent; mingle all these things very well to∣gether with a wooden ladle, or with a spoon.
When these ingredients shall bee very well united, you must garnish your Tart pan with a Dough-coffin of fine or leaved paste, of the thick∣ness of about half a Crown, which said Dough-coffin you must suffi∣ciently fill up with your said ingre∣dients, and afterwards frame your Tart lid with small slices of past; you may if you please pink and garnish the borders of your Tart, and im∣bellish it with wrought works, ac∣cording to your fancy.
Put your Tart into the Oven, and
by turns set it upon some fresh em∣bers; you must observe that your Tart will require but a little half hours baking, and when it is al∣most baked you must draw it forth of the Oven, and powder it with a good handful of Sugar, and a little Rose-water, and putting it again into the Oven you may leave it there for a little while, afterwards drawing it forth again, you may powder it with a little sugar.
The manner how to make a Tart of the roots of Herbs.
TAke Skirrit roots, scrape them and cleanse them, after which cause them to bee boyled in water until they be sufficiently perboyled, then let them dry thorowly, and pound them in a Morter; you may also sift them through a sieve, that so you may only retain the very mar∣row
of them, which you must put into a porrenger with as much gra∣ted bread, or Macaroons, as also about the bigness of two eggs of Pastry-mens Cream, two handfuls of Sugar, and a little Rose-water, some Salt, Cinamon, and other spices, according to your own dis∣cretion, as also Pine-apple kernels, Currans, and preserved Lemmon∣peeles, mingle all these ingredients together with about the bigness of an egge or more of melted butter, and when this preparative is thus fitted, you must put it into a Tart∣pan, garnished with a Tart Coffin of paste, made of very fine or leaved flower.
Cover your said Tart with slices of paste as aforesaid, and put it into the Oven, and when it is well-nigh baked you must draw it, and pow∣der it with a handful of Sugar, and sprinkle it with a little Rose water, and after that putting it into the O∣ven again for a trice only, you must again powder it with some
Sugar, whereby your said Tart will be compleated.
To make a Tart of raw or green Eruit.
FIt a Coffin of very fine or leaved paste in your Tart-pan, put there∣into a lay of Sugar, and after that fill it up with Goose-berries, or with red Currans, or with verjuyce in the Grape, out of all which you shall have taken the kernels; or with Cherries neer ripe, or with A∣pricocks cut in two, or with Plumbs peeled, in which you may leave the kernels if you please; and if you bee minded to put your Apricocks whole into your Tart, you must peele them, and adde unto them a lump of Butter, a little beaten Ci∣namon, a few slices of preserved Lemmon-pills, and a handful of Su∣gar, more or less, according to the
bigness of your Tart.
Then you must cover your said Tart with a lid of leaved fine dough, which you may pink and carve into quarters, and then having var∣nisht it, you may put it into the O∣ven, and when it is almost or quite baked, you must powder it with Su∣gar, and put it again a while into the Oven as aforesaid.
To make a Tart of the mellow of Pump∣kins, Gourds, or of Melons.
TAke the mellow of a Pumpkin, or of a Gourd, or Melon, cut it into peeces as small as a Nut, let them be half boyled in the same wa∣ter which they will yeeld, over a gen∣tle fire, and have a care sometimes to turn and stirre them that they may not burn, or stick to the pot. And that you may have the less trouble with them, and cause them to boyl
the faster, you may adde some water to them, but that will diminish their Natural taste.
When your Pumpkins are thus half boyled, you must draw them forth of the water, and laying them dry you must cause them to drop out all their moysture, or press them in your hands between a Napkin, or any other linnen cloth, after which you must bruise them, and work them fine with a spoon.
Observe, that instead of this fore∣going manner of preparing your Pumpkins, Gourds, or Melons, you may take the mellows of them raw, and pound it, and cause it to bee half boyled in water, or Mutton broth, and after it shall be thus half boyled (fit for to be fryed either in butter or oyl) you must pass it through a sieve, or coarse cloth, to take away the strings of it.
When your Pumpkins are thus prepared, you may put them into a platter, or little dish, and adde unto them a quarter of a pound and
a half of Sugar, or more, a little Spice, some beaten Cinamon, and a little Salt, you may also put some Pine-apple kernells and Cur∣rans therein, and a little preserved Lemmon-peele, out in slices, some of the Pastry Cream, or grated white-bread, or Macaroons, or Na∣ples Biscuit grated, or the bigness of an egge of sweet Almonds peeled, and pounded exactly in a Morter; you may also adde thereunto green Cheese, which hath not been un∣creamed.
Adde to all these ingredients as much melted butter as you shall judge fitting, or of Marrow, or of fat Bacon cut into small slices, and if it be on a Flesh day, instead of put∣ting Pastry cream into the said Tart, you may put some yolks of raw eggs into it.
Mixe all these ingredients toge∣ther, and make it up into the like∣ness of a Pudding; and if you meet with any difficulty in the mingling and knitting of them together, you
may adde a spoonful or two of Milk the better to incorporate them.
Your said Pudding being thus sufficiently prepared, you may put a good quantity thereof into a tart∣pan which is furnished with a dough Coffin, after which you may cover your said Tart with a lid of paste, and varnish your said Tart, and so put it into the Oven, and when it is almost baked you must powder it over with some sugar, and sprinkle it with some Rose-water.
To make an Apple-tart, or Pear∣tart most exquisitely.
FVrnish your Tart-pan with a Coffin of paste, and lay a bed of Sugar into it, and fill it up with the mellow of Apples or Pears pared, and small shredded, or cut in slices, the seeds and cores being taken out, mingle Pine-apple kernels there∣with,
as also Currans, and the peele of preserved Lemmons if you please, powder the whole with a little beaten Cinamon; adde thereunto some powder sugar at discretion, and a morsel of fresh butter, about the bigness of a Walnut, or therea∣bouts, for an indifferent Tart; co∣ver this Tart in the same manner as you do the other fore-going Fruit-Tarts, and put it into the Oven after you have varnished it, and af∣ter it is baked you may powder it with some Sugar, and put it into the Oven again for a while, and so sprinkle it with Rose-water.
The manner to make a Tart, or Pasty, or Chosson, or a Flawue, of Apples, Pears, or any other raw fruit.
MAke up your Coffin of paste of any bigness, or how you
please, and lay a bed of Sugar in the bottome of it; adde thereunto Apples, Pears, or any other Fruit you please, cut asunder and shred, and the corestaken out; adde there∣unto a morsel of fresh Butter, and a little powdered Cinamon, or green Anniseeds, and instead of But∣ter you may put Marrow into these kind of Fruit-tarts, or Pyes, as also Pine-apple kernels, Currans, or damask Pruins, or the peels of pre∣served Lemmons cut into slices, and on the top of all this you may strow a handful of sugar powdered.
And after you have covered this Tart, or Pasty with a lid conveni∣ent to either, you may cause it to be baked according to the former pre∣scriptions.
To make a Tart of Comfits, or any kind of preserves what you please.
GArnish your Tart-pann with a Coffin of paste, and in the bot∣tom thereof put a lay of Powder∣sugar, and afterwards place your Comfits therein; adde thereunto a few Lemmon-peels cut into very small slices, adde thereunto a little Sugar, and some Rose-water.
Cover your Tart with a lid of thin-leaved paste, as it was former∣ly prescribed in the fore-going Chapter treating of the Apple tarts; varnish this your Tart on the top, and put it into the Oven, and cause it to be speedily baked, which will be done suddenly, because there needs not any thing to be baked save the crust.
When your said Tart is thus baked, powder it with sugar, and
put it into the Oven again only for a trice, and having drawn it for good and all, strew a little sugar upon it.
The manner to make another Tart much like unto your fore∣going Comfit-tarts.
TAke any kind of Fruit which is dryed in the Sun, or in an O∣ven, and cause it to bee boyled in water till it become soft and pappish; as for example, Suppose you have a mind to make a Tart of any kind of Plums, Dates, Raisons, dryed Pears, or the like, to all these you must adde some sugar.
And when the Fruit is sufficiently softned you must take the cores and kernels out, after which you must pound or beat them in a Morter, and straine them through a sieve; adde some sugar, and a little flower to
them, and a very little beaten Cin∣namon; mingle all these things to∣gether, and after that garnish your Pasty Coffin there-with, and so make up this Tart just as you were prescribed to do the former.
The manner to make a Custard, White pot, or a Tansie-Tart.
PUt upon your Kneading or Dresser-board three quarters of a pound full weight of the finest flower, and some salt at discretion; you must work your said flower in a moyst place with the white of an Egge, and make it soft or supple e∣nough to reduce it into as fine and thin a paste as possibly may be.
When your paste is thus prepa∣red you must let it rest a while, that it may become the more supple, and afterward spreading it again upon
the Kneading-board, you must work it as thin as possibly you can.
Immediately after your paste is thus spread, you must rub the bottom of your Tart-pan with sweet Suet, and you must spread one of the ends of your paste thereon to make a Coffin, you must rub the said Coffin with your sweet suet, and fold the paste again upon it, and af∣terwards once more rub this fould of paste in the suet, and so the other fould, till you lay on a fourth fould which you must not butter.
When the fourth fold, that is to say, the fourth Coffin of paste is laid on, you must put into it as much of the ingredients hereafter expressed as shall bee requisite to fill it up, which you must have in a readiness against you begin to fit your Pasty Coffin.
Now to prepare the said ingredi∣ents, you must put into a Skillet half a pint of sweet Cream, which hath not been skummed; adde there∣unto four yolks of Eggs, a small
quantity of salt, and a little fine flower, mingle these together, and let them boyl upon the fire for the space of one half hour, and stirre this composition continually, until it become as thick as broth which is throughly boyled.
When your said stuffe is well boyled, you must pour it into a dish, and when it is half grown cold, you may adde unto it a quarter of a pound of Pistaches peeled in hot water just as you peele your Al∣monds, and afterwards you must beat or pound them very well in a Marble Morter, in the same manner as you do when you do intend to make Maearoones; adde thereunto also a quartern and a half of Sugar poudered, a little beaten Cina∣mon, a slice of preserved Lemmon∣peele cut in sundry peeces, twenty kernels of Pine-apples, and a good quantity of Currans, you may also adde thereunto some Amber-greece, and some Musk steeped in half a spoonful of Rose-water, or Orenge-flower
flower water, and the bigness of an egge of Marrow small shredded; mingle all these things together, and fill up your Tart sufficiently with them; which having done, you must fould your paste four times o∣ver all your Tart to make the lid, and rub the top of every fold with sweet suet as aforesaid, except the uppermost.
After which you may cut off the borders of the lid, and you must ob∣serve to press and close it with your thumbs, that so the fould of your paste may be well closed, and joyned, that so your ingredients may not burst out in the baking.
You may also use your own pleasure and discretion in your fashioning and garnishing the bor∣ders and lid of your Tart, as for ex∣ample, with pinked works, Cantels, and the like.
You may also pink the two up∣permost foulds of the lids without touching the undermost, which you must do with a Pen-knife, or any
other sharp-pointed knife; and you must observe only to work such small holes as may not peirce the second fold of your lid, for fear the stuffe should come forth, as afore∣said.
You must varnish your said Tart on the top of the lid, and put it in∣to the Oven upon some embers which are not over-hot, and you must have a care to set your Tart∣pan very strait and upright.
You must let your said Tart stand at least an hour in the Oven, by which time it will bee baked, and will swell at least half a foot in thickness.
When your said Tart is thorowly baked, draw it, and powder it with some Sugar, and sprinkle it either with Rose-water, or with Orange-flower water; after which do but just put it into the Ovens mouth, that it may become frosted, which will be effected in half a quarter of an hours time, and then you may serve it up to the Table.
The manner how to make a Fueil∣lentine, or Puff-paste.
PUt into a Dish or Porrenger the bigness of two Eggs in Pastry Cream, a quarter of a pound of Poweer-sugar, a yolk of a raw Egge, a few Pine-apple kernels, and Currans, a little preserved Lem∣mon peel small sliced, a little bea∣ten Cinnamon, and a good quan∣tity of Rose-water; All these things you must mingle and beat together with a Ladle, or with a Silver spoon; and adde thereunto some juyce of a Lemmon, or Orange-flower water, but you must not put in much of either.
Or instead of all these ingredi∣ents you may only compose your preparation with Pastry Cream a∣lone, with grated white-bread, or Biscuit, a few Currans, Sugar, Ci∣namon, and a few drops of Lem∣mon juyce.
Having thus fitted your Compo∣sition, or mixture, you must make two Coffins of paste of fine leaved dough, each of them of the big∣ness of a Pewter or Silver plate; put one of your Coffins upon a peece of Paper, into which you may pour your aforesaid mixture, which you must spread abroad with your La∣dle or spoon, after which you must wet the borders of your Coffin, and after that you must cover it with a∣nother Coffin of paste; you must have a care well to cloze the borders and edges of your said Coffin, and to fasten them together in the fashi∣on as those of a Tart, and so put your Tart into the Oven, which will require but one half hours ba∣king, or thereabouts.
When your said Tart shall be al∣most baked, you must powder it with Sugar, and sprinkle it with some few drops of Rose-water, or rather Orange-flower water, and putting it into the Oven again, let the Sugar become frosty, and ha∣ving
drawn it forth the last time, powder it with Sugar again, as in the former chapter.
You may also make, and bake such a Tart as this, which we have even now described, in a Tart-pan: so likewise may you make them of several sizes, and those according as your own fancy will lead you, and you may serve them up to the Table piping hot severally, or joyntly, according as you have company and occasion; all which depends on the will of those who are to spend them as aforesaid.
The manner how to make small Tarts of all sorts.
PRepare your paste, but let it not be so fine as for your fore-going Tarts, let it be at least a half Crown thick, proportionably unto its big∣ness,
and observe that the bottom of your said Tart must be thicker than the rest.
Your crust being well dried, you may fill it with Pastry Cream, or with Comfets, or with Fruit, or with Cheese, all which you must season with Sugar, with Currans, with Pine-apple kernels, with Cinamon, or with sweet powdered spices, with fresh butter, and other ingredients, in the same manner as you would make the fore-going Tarts.
When your said Tart is thus fil∣led up, you may cover it over at top with some lays of paste small sliced, and having powdered it with sugar you may put it into the Oven, and after it is well baked you must a∣gain powder it with sugar, and sprinkle it with a little Rose-water, and thus you may make all sorts of small Tarts to be eaten hot.
To make a Cheese Turt, or a Flawn, or Cust ard.
TAke about the bigness of two handfuls of green Cheese un∣creamed, or unskimmed, and about the bigness of a Wal-nut or two, of the best old Cheese well grated or scraped, or else cut into small pee∣ces, adde thereunto some Salt, and about a quarter of a pound of butter unsalted and melted; adde there∣unto the whites and yolks of two or three Eggs, mingle all these toge∣ther, and beat them throughly the better to dissolve them, and if your mixture bee too thick, put a little cold water into it, but in case your Cheese bee very green indeed, and hath Whay in it, you must not at all adde any water to your said mix∣ture; to the contrary, you must press out the said Whay, for that o∣therwise your mixture would be too flashy and washy.
Reduce this your mixture into a body, like unto good thick and well boyled broth, and porridge, as thick as glew, whereunto you must also adde the bigness of an Egge in fine flower, or the crumbs of white bread grated; fill up your said Tarts with these like ingredients, or pud∣ding, and put it into the Oven till it be well baked, after which you may powder it with sugar.
Observe, that in the making of these Cheese Tarts you may make use of Hogs-greace instead of but∣ter.
Other sorts of Tarts and Cheese-Cakes which are made of a finer stuff or dough, and are usually the good Wives Tart, or a Tart for a friend in a corner.
BEat two or three yolks of Eggs together, with one handful of
powdered sugar, and when they are very well dissolved, pour them into the paste Coffin, or into the crust which you have prepared for the Tart, spread this first mixture about your Tart, after which lay upon the top of it as much Cheese-cake-pud∣ding, and other ingredients prescri∣bed in the making of ordinary Cheese-cakes.
Your Tart being in this manner sufficiently filled up, cause it to bee baked, and when it is almost baked, powder it with sugar, and sprinkle it with some Rose-water; after which return it into the Oven again, that so it may be compleatly baked, and that the sugar may become frosty.
Another manner how to make a Cheese-Cake.
PRepare your Crust, and when it is become dry and firm, fill it up
with a good lay of dry Cheese, as for example, of those Cheeses which in France they commonly call Ange∣lots, being little round Cheeses, a∣bout the bigness of two Peeces of Eight, or two Crowns, you must put of these about the thickness of a fingers or thumbs breadth, and let this Cheese be cut into small slices, or let it be well crushed, squeezed, or beaten in a Morter; adde thereunto a pretty quantity of good fresh But∣ter, some yolks of Eggs well beaten, after which cause it to bee bal••ed. Now in the Province of Picardy such like Tarts are called, unbuttoning Tarts, for they cause men to relish a cup of Wine very well.
Moreover, this Tart may be farre better relished, if you adde all the ingredients together, viz. your eggs, your butter, and your cheese, as also the rest of your spices, and season∣ments, and so make them up into a pudding all together before you put them into your Pastry Coffin; and you must also observe, that in∣stead
of old dried Cheese, it will bee fair to put two sorts of green Cheese into your said Tarts, the one whereof must be a little staler than the other.
Another manner to make a Cheese-Cake, Custard, or Flawn.
TAke a half pound full weight of fat Cheese which is as yetsoft, but well and throughly dried, bruise it upon your Kneading-board, or dresser, whereunto adde a good quantity of sweet and thick Cream about a pint full, and a few Parsley leaves shredded small, the yolks of three eggs, & a grain or two of Salt, mingle all these very well together, & when you have made up this mix∣ture into a thin pudding, pour it in∣to a pastry Coffin of about the thick∣ness of a Crown, and as broad as a Plate, put on the top of your said pudding half a quarter of a pound
of good fresh butter broken into smal Gobbets, cover this your said mix∣ture with a lid of fine and thin paste, wet the borders of it with some wa∣ter, and paste them together very exactly, and put a ruffe about them in such a manner as you think fit. This kinde of Tart will be like unto a small dish turned upside down∣wards, or revers'd, you must varnish its lid, and in the middle of it leave an indifferent overture, or cross slit to give vent unto the Tart, and it will be likewise requisite to heighten the corners of your lid-slits; after which cause your said Tart to bee baked, which will bee done in the space of one good half hour, or thereabouts.
The manner to make a Rattoone, or a round Puff-paste Tart.
AS for example, take a pint of fine flower, and a good quar∣ter of a pound of fresh butter, about half an ounce of salt, and about a quarter of a pint of luke-warm wa∣ter, or thereabouts, mingle all these together upon your Kneading-board, and work them with your hands till you have made them into a very fine paste, which must be inclining towards soft, put this paste upon a paper besmeared with butter, and make it up in the same manner as you do your great Cakes, giving it at least the thickness of a Crown for its crust, and in breadth like unto a small plate, more or less, according to your own pleasure, and heighten the borders of it a little; you must varnish and fill this your said Puff∣paste with the same ingredients
wherewithall you do make your Cheese Cakes, and accordingly you may cause your said Rattoon to be baked as aforesaid.
To make another kinde of Rattoone, or round Puff-paste.
TAke three or four spoonfuls of fine flower, or of powdered Rice, dissolve them with Milk, that so your mixture may become as thick as broth well boyled, adde thereunto some beaten salt, you may also adde thereunto the yolks of an Egge or two, more or less, or a Macaroon or two, or a spoonful of peeled and beaten Almonds, al∣though unless you please your self, it is not at all needful to adde any of the aforesaid ingredients of Maca∣roons, Almonds, or the yolks of Eggs, save only to give it a better taste.
Your mixture being thus in a readiness, cause the bigness of an egge in fresh butter to be melted, in a pretty big Skillet, or in an indifferent Tart-pan, and when the said butter is melted, and is become half swar∣ty, and very hot, pour your said mixture into it, and have a care that it may be equally spread throughout the whole Skillet, or Tart-pan, and let it not bee thicker than the half breadth of your little finger, or thereabouts, cause this your Rat∣toone to bee gently baked upon an equal moderate fire, without cove∣ring of the same, and have a care now and then to look whether or no it doth not burn at the bottome, and when it shall bee sufficiently colou∣red, and brown baked at the bot∣toms turn it that so the other side may be also baked, and get a good brown colour; which having done, you may serve it up upon a plate, and may powder it with sugar both on the top and at the bottom.
The manner how to make Darioles, or small Pasties, filled up with se∣veral mixtures according to pleasure.
PUt into a woodden Bowl or Ba∣son the fourth part of a pint of fine flower, and the whites and yolks of two eggs, beat all these together with a Ladle or spoon, pour there∣into little by little some Milk, and Salt, more or less, according to your own discretion, a little will serve turn; dissolve this said flower or mixture throughly, as if you would make broth of it, and when your said mixture is become very thin, adde thereunto half a pint of Milk, wch you must also wel beat & mingle together with the said ingredients as aforesaid, in the same manner as if you did intend to make broth; and in case you have no Cows milk, you may make use of Almond milk, wch
if you do, you must adde thereunto a little more flower.
The mixture being thus prepa∣red, you must put a Pastry Coffin into a Tart-pan, and causing it to be set into your Oven, you may suffi∣ciently fill it with the aforesaid mix∣ture, after which cause your said small paste to be baked, and when it is sufficiently baked, being drawn out of the Oven, you must cut in sun∣der cross-wise the inside of your said Dariole or Pasty, but not the crust, and into the said trench of your said Dariole you must pour about the bigness of a Wall-nut in fresh but∣ter, a good half quartern of sugar powdered, and a little Rose water; put your said Dariole into the Oven again, that so the Butter and the sugar may be melted, and that the taste of it may be incorporated into your said Pasty, which will bee done in a trice, and so draw it for good and all. Now in case you have not a Tart∣pan to bake your said Pasty in, you must take a peece of Dough that is
not so fine kneaded as the former▪ and thereof you must make your Paste Cossin bigge enough for a Tart, and you may give it at least two fingers thinkness at the side. Put this paste in the Air for a while, that it may become dry and firm and when you have a minde to make up your Dariole, you must put about the bigness of a Wall-nut of fresh butter in the bottome of your said paste, and then put your said paste into the Oven, that it may become firm; then pour into it one half part of what you shall need to fill your said Dariole, and a while after put in as much more, and so at length you may proceed to fill it up quite with the said mixture, or pud∣ding.
You must allow at least one half hours time to the baking of this said Dariole, or Tart, made with half a pint of Milk.
When as your said Dariole or Tart is baked, you must adde some butter, sugar, and rose-water unto
it, in the self-same manner as it hath been afore said, instead whereof you may only content your self meerly to strow it with a little sugar, and to sprinkle it with some Rose∣water.
The manner to make Cheese-Cakes.
AS for example, take about the bigness of two handfuls of green Cheese newly made, being uncreamed or unskimmed, a good handful of fine flower, the white and yolk of an egge and half, according to your own discretion, whereunto you may adde if you please about the bigness of an egge of old dry Cheese which is grated, or scraped, mingle all these things together, and inclose all this mixture in a Pasty Coffin of fine Dough, and you may give it the shape of any thing, gar∣nish
your said Cheese-cake, and put it into the Oven. Observe, that you must not quite fill your Cheese∣cakes, because that the ingredients and mixture which is in them would swell, and run out in the baking.
The manner to make an excellent great Cake, and to bake it in a Tart-pan.
TAke two small Cream-cheeses, which are new made, fresh and good ones, without any salt in them, put them into a dish or ba∣son, and bruise them with a spoon, after which adde unto them about a good quarter of a pound of fresh butter which is melted, adde there∣unto moreover the whites and yolks of three or four eggs, the which you must separately incorporate with your said mixture, and you must also gently mixe therein three
spoonfuls of flower, or of grated white bread very small, or grated Naples Biscuit about the bigness of an egge; adde thereunto a Maca∣roon beaten small, and two or three spoonfuls of powder sugar, which will make about an ounce of sugar; season this mixture with a little salt, and after that you must your self taste the pudding to see that it be not over-salted, whereof you must have a great care, and give no more thickness to your said pudding than you would do to broth which is made for Children; and in case it falls out so, that this said pudding happens to bee too thick, you may pour a spoonful of milk or water into it, to make it more slender.
When your said pudding is thus seasoned, you must rub the inside of your Tart-pan with a bit of fresh butter, then put your said Pudding into it, and spread it abroad through the whole Tart-pan untill it bee a fingers breadth thick round the same.
Stir your Tart-pan a little, that so the Pudding may bee equally distributed, after which put your Tart-pan in the Oven, or set it up∣on the hot Embers in the Chimny Corner, when as you must cover your Tart-pan with a Copper cover, upon which you must lay hot Cin∣ders and Embers, but you must so equally lay them, that there bee no more heat in one place than in the o∣ther.
If your Tart-pan be covered as a∣foresaid, you must now and then open it, to see whether your Cake doth bake or no; and whether it re∣ceiveth a higher colour in one place than in the other, for that as then you must take away the Embers from the place where the Cake is most baked.
And in case your Cake doth swell, and rise over much in its bak∣ing, and chance to touch the Co∣ver of your Tart-pan; That is a sign there is too much fire, or that your Cake was made too thick, wher∣fore
you must diminish the fire, or you must withdraw your Tart∣pan a while from the fire, and let it stand open a while, giving vent to the Cake, which will cause it to fall, after which you must again close the Lidde of your Tart-pan, and put some Embers on the Top of it and place it neer the fire again, that so it may bee throughly baked, the said Cake will require at least three quar∣ters of an hours time, for its through∣ly baking.
When it is sufficiently baked, you must set it upon a great Pye plate, and having well powdered it with sugar, you may either eat it hot or cold as you please.
Moreover, if you cause this Cake to bee baked in an Oven, you must not cover your Tart-pan; for that it will bake the better and easier, and you have also the advantage of making it the thicker, as for exam∣ple, you may give it an inch in height more or lesse, according to the bor∣ders of your Tart pan.
Observe also, that in the mixture & preparing of this your cake or tart, you may adde two ounces of sweet Almonds peeled and beaten in a Morter, instead of Macaroons, you may also put thereinto one ounce of good Pine-Apple Kirnels indiffe∣rently beaten, especially if you put no Macaroons at all into the said mixture, you may also adde there∣unto some preserved Lemmon-peels, or Apricock paste, or such like drye Comfits, Although all these ingre∣dients are needlesse, for that your Cake or Tart will bee very good without them all, only upon an ex∣traordinary occasion, you may adde them all to make it the better, which will bee more chargeable and pain∣ful, the other way being the lesse troublesome and expensive.
To make excellent soft Tarts or C••kes without any Cheese at all.
PUt upon a Table, or in a Bason, or in a woodden bowle, about two pintes of flower, make a hol∣lownesse or gutter in the middle, that is to say, a great hole, into which you must put one pound of fresh but∣ter, which hath been well worked with your hands, and so softned to your purpose, in case it bee too hard, unto which butter, adde besides a half pinte of Cream, according to your wine Measure, and not accor∣ding to your milk measure, for that would be too bigge; adde thereunto almost an Ounce of beaten Salt, and beat four fresh Eggs there∣in.
Observe also, that you must not put all your Cream in at once, the half being enough at a time, or one third part.
Mingle and mix all these things together, adding now and then some Cream to your ingredients to make them dissolve the better, and continue so to do, untill you find that there are not any more clots or lumps remaining in your said paste, and that your paste bee strong e∣nough to sustain it self in the form of a Tart upon paper, without sprea∣ding it self, or running abroad here or there, after it shall have been made up into the form of a Tart.
And when as you conceive that your paste is sufficiently kneaded, you must Taste it, to know whe∣ther it bee not oversalted, after which you must cut or break it into Morcels and Lumps, and place it up∣on paper smeared with butter.
Make up your said tarts and cakes, and give them a bout an Inch thick∣nesse of paste, and make them as bigg as a middle-sized Trencher, more or lesse, according to your own will, and afterwards varnish them over: Put them into the O∣ven,
and let them remain there at least three quarters of an hour, by which time they will be baked.
The Ovens harth must bee very nigh as hot as when you intend to bake Houshold bread, or other or∣dinary bread, and observe, that if the Oven be not hot enough, your Tarts and Cakes will not take a good colour; and on the contrary, if the Oven be too hot, your Tarts and Cakes will not bake well within.
To make another soft Tart or Cake without Cheese, and the which must be made in a Tart-pan.
PUt in an earthen pot, or in a great dish, a pint of fine flower, beat eight eggs therein, and a good spoonful of Beer yeast, adde there∣unto a good quarter of a pound of
fresh butter which hath been mel∣ted upon the fire, with a quarter of a pint of milk.
Mingle all these ingredients toge∣ther, and season them with beaten salt, taste whether they bee suffici∣ently seasoned, and afterwards cover them with a hot cloth, and place them nigh unto the fire, that they may only feel the heat thereof, and leave them neer the fire for about the space of one hour, that so the said pudding may rise and swell. When it is thus fisen and swoln, you may cause about half a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to be mel∣ted in a great Tart-pan, and pour your mixture or pudding into it, af∣ter which cover the Tart pan with its cover; put fire both above and under it, and cause your Tart thus to be baked.
This Tart will require three quar∣ters of an hours time or more to be throughly baked.
When your said Tart or Cake is thus baked, you may cat it with∣out
making any other additions unto it; or as soon as you take it out of the Oven, you may sever the top from the bottome of it, by cutting it in two with a Knife, or by passing a thread through the crummy part of it, and you may lay aside the lid or upper part, and so besprinkle the inward part of your Cake with good fresh butter melted, and pow∣der it with some sugar, as also sprin∣kle it with some Rose-water, or Cinamon-water; after which re∣placing the two peeces of your Tart upon each other, you may let it remain a while near unto the fire, that so the Sugar and rose-wa∣ter may soak in; and that your Cake or Tart may not take cold before you cat it.
Observe, that this Cake will be a very thick one, and therefore at its serving up you may take out a part of its crum, and only leave the two cru••ts garnished with a little crum in the form of a Pompion.
To make another soft Cake or Tart without Cheese, which Cake the Flemmings do call Bread dipped in Eggs.
PUt into a Bason, or upon a Ta∣ble, two pints of fine flower, break and beat some eggs into it, adde thereunto half a pound of fresh butter which you shall have caused to be melted over the fire, with a quarter of a pint of milk, put also into this mixture a spoonful of good beer yeast which is somewhat thick, and rather more than less, as also salt at discretion.
You must well mixe and work all these things together with your hands, till you reduce them into a well knitted paste, and in the knea∣ding of this your paste you must now and then powder it with a little flower.
Your paste being thus well pow∣dered
dered will be firm, after which make it up into the form of a Loaf, and placing it upon a sheet of Paper; you must cover it with a hot Napkin.
You must also observe to set your said paste neer unto the fire, but not too nigh, lest that side which should bee too nigh the fire might become hard.
You shall leave this said paste in the said indifferent hot place untill it be sufficiently risen, and it will re∣quire at least five quarters of an hours time to rise in, and when it shall be sufficiently risen, which you may know by its splitting, and se∣parating it self, you must make it up into the form of a Cake, or Tart, which you must garnish over, and then put it into the Oven to bee ba∣ked.
The Ovens harth must be as hot almost as when you intend to bake indifferent great Houshold Bread.
This Tart or Cake will require al∣most three quarters of an hours ba∣king, or at least a great half hour;
and when it is drawn forth of the O∣ven you may powder it with some sugar, and sprinkle it with some rose-water before you do serve it up to the Table, which depends of your will.
To make a Tart or Cake according to Mistris Susanna the Dairy-maids manner.
PLace upon your Table, or Knea∣ding-board three quarters of a pound of flower, make a Crevase in it, put thereinto eight yolks of Eggs, and two whites of Eggs, and half an ounce of beaten salt, adde thereunto three quarters of a pound of good fresh butter, which you shall have caused to be melted with aquar∣ter of a pint of milk, or rather with so much Cream, your Milk and Butter must be very hot, & you must
put it into your Mixture boyling if you can, not leaving any thing at all in the bottome of the Porrenger.
Mix well together all these ingre∣dients, untill such time as this said mould or paste be wel nigh become cold, after which let it cool for the space of one half hour longer, and so let it grow to a stifnesse, and in the mean while you may prepare the following leaven, which you must begin to make one quarter of an hour after you shall have fitted your paste.
Now to make this said leaven, you must place a quarter of a pound of flower upon your dresser board, and make a trench in it, and put in∣to it half a quarter of a pinte of good thick leaven, adde a little Milk or Cream unto it, let it bee hot, that so you may reduce your said ingredients into a soft & gluish paste, which you may do in knead∣ing of it well upon your dresser board; and having throughly knea∣ded your said paste, you may make it up into the shape of a loaf, and
let it so rest for a quarter of an hour, or thereabouts, or untill such time as the leaven bee well risen, which as aforesaid you may know, when your paste beginnes to crack or split; and you must remember to keep your Leaven in an indifferent warm place.
As soon as your said Leaven be∣ginnes to bee split, or to crack at top, you must mingle it with the afore∣said Paste; and working them very well together, you may afterwards make one mould of all the said paste and leaven together, and make a kind of a loaf of it; place it upon a sheet of paper, and frame it into the shape of a Cake, and give it about a thumbredths thickness, after which varnish it, and let it lye by, a good hour in summer, and two hours in winter, and put it into a place that is not very cold.
When this your Cake is thus pre∣pared and ready to bee put into the Oven, you may raise it into a Cof∣fin of paste, and slice the upper part
of the borders, or sides of your Cake or Tart, with a knife, after which put it into the Oven; you must give your Oven but an ordina∣ry heat, and you must let your said Tart or Cake bake very leasurely, so that it may bee baked in a little hour; draw it not forth of the O∣ven, untill it bee very well setled and dried on the inside, that so it may not chance to break or crack, at your taking of it out of the Oven.
The manner to make soft Tarts or Cakes with Cheese.
TAke about the bignesse of two handfulls of green Cheese new made, which hath not been skimmed or uncreamed, season it with salt smal stamped, adde thereunto half a pound of fresh Butter, beat two eggs into it, and in case your Cheese chanceth to bee over much dryed,
and consequently lesse humide or Moist than it ought to bee, to make up these your said Tarts or Cakes withall, you must put a little water in this Mixture, to help to bind it, whereunto you must adde almost a pinte of flower, and work all these ingredients throughly well with your hands, the better to mingle them; And when you shall have thus prepared your ingredients, you must butter a sheet of paper, and place your paste upon it, to make a Cake or Tart thereof, which you must make at least two fingers breadth in thicknesse, varnish your said Tart or Cake, and put it into the Oven.
Observe, that this kind of Tart or Cake, will not require above one half hours baking.
The manner to make a Tart or Cake, which is knobbed or kertled.
MAke up your paste, as in the foregoing Chapter, for your soft Cheese-cake, spread it upon the buttered Paper in the form of a cake, and let it be at least two inches thick, after which you may raise the sides round about in a coarse or grosse manner, about the height of three fingers, in the same manner as if you would make a Tart, presse down the middle of your said Tart with your hands.
Afterwards take about one quar∣ter of a pound of delicate Cheefe, ac∣cording to your own fancy and taste, cut it into small peeces about the bignesse of little dice, which you must strow upon the Cake or Tart, and in so doing you must flat∣ten and presse them down with your
hands, to make them enter and stick fast into the paste a little, unto which Cheese you must also adde about a good quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into small peeces, and adde thereunto one beaten Egg, and finally you must elevate or raise and fould down again the bor∣ders of your said Paste or Cake in∣wards.
This your said Cake may bee ba∣ked in one half hours time, or there∣abouts, and you must heat your harth in the same manner as you would do for other kind of Pyes.
Those who do love Cheese very well, do cause the said Cakes or tarts to bee made double, and to this pur∣pose do prepare two pastry-Coffins, at least two inches in thicknesse, and upon the bottome pasty Coffin, they lay a bed of fine shredded or scraped Cheese, after which they put the o∣ther paste Coffin thereon, and joyn∣ing them very close together, you may furnish and compleat your said Tart or Cake as aforesaid.
To make a Cake or Tart according to the Italian or Millan fashion.
PLace upon your Kneading-board a pint and a half of fine flower, make a gutter in the middle of it, and put into it a pound of butter which is neither hard nor salted, break into it two or three Eggs, and adde thereunto about the bigness of one handful of good soft Cheese which hath not been uncreamed, but newly made, and adde thereunto some salt to season this your said mixture, which you must very well work, or knead with your hands to reduce it into paste, by adding a little water unto it.
When this your said paste shall be sufficiently kneaded, you must spread it upon a buttered paper, and make it at least two inches thick, you may also shape the borders or sides
of it according to your own fancy, varnish your said Cake or Tart once or twice upon the top of it, and garnish it with works with your knife, or else you may in some places pink it.
A good half hours time will suf∣ficiently bake your said Cake, or Tart.
Moreover, if you desire to have this your Tart to bee very dry and tender, or short, you must let it throughly dry in the Oven.
Observe that your Royal Cakes, or Tarts (as they call them in France) are made in the same man∣ner as these Millan Tarts are, save only that they ought not to be com∣posed of such fine flower as the o∣thers, and that the Pastry-men do put leaven of beer in them.
The manner how to make an Al∣mond Tart or Cake.
AS for example, place upon your Kneading-board a good pint of Meal or more, make a gutter in it, put thereinto about half a pound of fugar powdered, spread the said su∣gar in the said hollowness, adde thereunto half a pound of sweet Al∣monds being peeled and beaten, or stamped in a Morter of Stone, or Marble, put thereunto likewise a quarter and a half of good fresh but∣ter, adde thereunto a little salt stam∣ped or beaten, the quantity of a Ha∣zel Nut, and two or three yolks of Eggs, and a little Rose-water.
Knead all these ingredients toge∣ther, and if your paste chance to bee too hard, you may adde thereunto a little Rose-water of the best.
When your said paste is thus pre∣pared, you must spread it equally
upon paper which is rubbed with butter, and make your said Tart or Cake at least a thumbs breadth in thickness, and enterline it on the top, as if you would mark it out in∣to several parcels.
Sometimes you may varnish these kinde of Tarts on the tops, but it is better to put them into the Oven unvarnished.
You must give them but a gentle fire, and at the expiration of one hour they will be sufficiently baked and dried.
As then you may draw it out of the Oven, and in case your said Cake be not varnished, you must gloss it with sugar; and to this end as soon as it is baked and drawn forth of the Oven, you must pre∣sently spread your frosted sugar upon it, which must not be laid on thicker than a sheet of paper; and finally you may put it into the Oven again for a while for to dry your frosly su∣gar and as soon as you have drawn it for good and all, you may prick or
stick into your said Tart or March∣pane Cinamon in slices, and morcels of preserved Lemmons, which you must be sure to stick in quickly whilst the Tart is warm.
The manner to make a leaved or very fine Tart, or Marchpane.
SPread abroad your leaved or ve∣ry fine paste upon an unbuttered paper, and make this paste at least an inch thick, and cut this paste round with a knife, that so you may shape it into the form of a Tart or Marchpane, varnish it all over on the top, and so cause it to be put into the Oven; which said Tart or Cake will bee well baked, and well dried in the space of one hour, or thereabouts.
The manner to make refined Cakes or Tarts, in French called Flemiches,
PLace upon a clean Table board about a pound and a half of good fat cheese some what salted, which hath been made some days since, as two or three, or ten or 12 days at most, bruise the said Cheese with your hands, or with a rowling pin, and work it with your hands untill you feel no more clots in it, after which adde thereunto a pound and a half of good fresh butter, two oun∣ces of beaten salt or thereabouts, and 8 or 9 Eggs; Mingle all these things together untill they bee well united together, as if they were soft paste, or like unto a pudding, after which spread it upon your kneading board, and pour into it about a glasse full of cold water; that so this pudding or paste may bee the better steeped and
limber, as also cleerer, almost just as if it were beaten Egges.
After which you must take about a quart of flower, spread about the two thirds of it upon the said pud∣ding, which you must mingle and incorporate with your said pudding, and so by degrees you must adde all the rest of the flower, except a hand∣full or two.
Your Mixture being thus reduced into a very fine paste, you must pow∣der the said paste with a little flow∣er, and you must work it softly two or three times with your hands, du∣ring the space of a good quarter of an hour, after which you must spread abroad your said paste two or three times with your rowling Pin, and reduce it into a Masse or lump again, and so let it rest, and recover it self, for the space of half a quarter of an hour at most; As then roul this said paste long wise, and cut it in peeces, to make such like Cakes or Tarts of it as you please, of any shape or bignesse, and make them 2 or 3
fingers breadths thick, more or lesse, proportionably unto their bignesse; you must place these Cakes or Tarts upon paper buttered with good but∣ter, and raise their borders round about, enterline and pinck the tops of them, and afterwards varnish them, and so cause them to be ba∣ked.
You must observe that one half hours time will bake them admira∣bly well, they will require as hot an harth almost as when you intend to bake middle sized loaves; you must keep your Oven well closed, that so your said Cakes or Tarts may have the better colour, and now and then look upon your said Cakes, when they are baking, that so they may not chance to bee burned, and that they may bee gently baked, which will render them the more delicate, you must therefore bee sure not to give them an over great or sharp heat; and have a care not to draw your said Cakes out of the Oven,
untill they bee sufficiently, thorow baked, and well dryed.
The Manner how to make a Poupelaine as they call it in French, or a puff Cake, like a Pumpi∣on.
TAke about the bignesse of your Fist of small puff paste Cheeses, which are little cheeses uncreamed, made the very same day; Put these cheeses into a Porrenger, and bruise them small, adding thereunto a ve∣ry little flower, which being done ac∣cordingly, you must beat two eggs in this Mixture, and adde thereun∣to a good handfull of fine flower, and a little beaten salt: And after that mingle all these things together with a woodden ladle.
When this mixture is thus ready, you must place it upon paper but∣tered with butter, spread it in the
manner of a Cake, and make it about a fingers breadth in thicknesse, and then cause it to be put into the oven; And your Ovens harth must bee as hot as that your Cake may bee ba∣ked in half an hours time, after which you may draw it again forth of the Oven, and part it asunder to sepa∣rate the two Crusts entirely the one from the other, after which you must put them severally the one af∣ter the other, into a Bason or into any other commodious dish or ves∣sel, in which there may bee a good quantity of fresh butter melted, and the said Butter must bee clarified as it shall bee hereafter exprest more at large.
You must dip your undermost crust first of all into the said melted butter, and a little after draw it forth again, and let it drop dry again, and after that you must dip the upper∣most crust of your aforesaid puff Cake.
When both your crusts is very well dryed again, you must powder
them with sugar both above and un∣derneath, and sprinkle them on the inside with a little rose-water; you may also garnish the undermost crust on the inside with a few small slices of preserved Lemmon peels, and afterwards covering it again with the uppermost crust, you must powder it very well with sugar, and after that you must place your Puff∣paste Cake for a while again into the Ovens mouth, that so your sugar may become glased, as also to keep your said Cake hot untill you are ready to serve it up to be eaten.
The manner how to refine and clarifie Butter.
CAuse fresh butter to be melted, and let it boyl gently upon a bright fire until it become very cleer, and that the Cheese bee sunk unto the bottome, after which you may
take your pot off from the fire, and let your melted butter grow half cold, that so all the dross and filth may sink to the bottome, or that it may assemble in the skum, after which you must most exactly skim your said butter, and pour it into several Gally-pots to make use thereof upon all occasions.
The manner how to make little Puff-paste Bunns, called in French Choux.
YOu must make the paste of these your said Buns just like unto the paste of your fore-going Composi∣tion Cakes, only a little coarser in dough and stronger.
Having made your said paste you must place several morcels of it up∣on buttered paper about the bigness of an Egge, more or less according to your own pleasure; make them
up into a round form, and varnish them somewhat gently, after which put them into the Oven.
Observe, that both the Oven and its harth must be very hot.
When these small Buns shall bee well baked, you may cut them a∣sunder in the middle, and dip them into butter, and finally make them up as you did your Pumpion Cakes.
Or else you may cut these your little Buns into peeces, and put them into a porrenger with a little fresh butter, and rose-water, cause them to be throughly heated, and so you may eat them.
The manner how to make sweet and delicate Wafers.
BReak three Eggs into a Bason, adde a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar thereunto, and beat them together, after which adde un∣to
them a quarter of a pound of flower, or a little more; dissolve all these things together, and adde thereunto half a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter melted, and mixe all your ingredients with a ladle or spoon, and if so be you con∣ceive that your said mixture is too clear and slender, you may adde a little more sugar unto it, or flower which will thicken it.
When this preparative is ready, you must cause your Wafer Irons to bee heated on both sides, but you must not heat them untill they do smoke, for as then they would bee too hot, and would burn your Wafers.
When your said Wafer-Irons are thus well and duly heated, you must open them, and put about the big∣ness of an Egge of your paste into them, which you must spread some∣what at large, and shutting again your Irons gently, you must put them again upon the fire, and a little afterwards you must turn them on the other side, that so your Wafer
may be baked on both sides, after which you must take it gently out of your Wafer Irons, and you must cut off the beards, that is, the bor∣ders, which hang over your Wafer-Irons.
Observe, that in case your Wa∣fers chance to stick unto the Wafer-Irons, that is a sign your paste is too fine, wherefore you must adde a lit∣tle more meal, butter, and one egge unto it.
Note also, that these kind of Wa∣fers are farre better cold than hot.
The manner to make Wafers with Milk, or with Cream.
PUt a pint of flower into a Ba∣son, beat two or three Eggs therein, and dissolve them together, adde thereunto Cream, or Milk, which you please, though Cream be the best. Moreover a little salt, and
the bigness of two eggs of green Cream-cheese newly made, or meerly soft Cheese which hath not been uncreamed, and a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter which is melted, and if you pu: but half a quarter of a pound of butter there∣unto it will bee sufficient; but then you must adde a good quarter of a pound of your best Marrow small shredded.
Mingle all these ingredients toge∣ther, and when this your mixture shall be well knitted and incorpora∣ted, you may heat your Wafer-Irons and make your Wafers.
These Wafers you must eat whilst they are hot, even coming forth of the Irons.
To make Cheese-wafers.
PUt a pint of flower into a Bason, beat two eggs into it, adde there∣unto
a quarter of a pound of melted butter, green or new made Cheese about the bigness of an Egge, and thrice as much fine grated Cheese, or cut into morcels, which you please, so they be no bigger than gray pease, adde thereunto some beaten salt.
You must mixe all these together, and reduce them to a paste which is somewhat soft, and in case it fall out so that your said Paste proves to be too hard, you may adde a little cold water unto it, or only knead it; or rather a little Milk or Cream, which is best of all.
Work and knead all these ingre∣dients till you have made your paste of a good consistency, or have brought it to a good body.
Afterwards heat your Wafer-Irons sufficiently on both sides, and in the interim take a peece of your said paste and flatten it in the man∣ner of a Pastry Coffin, which you must make almost as bigge as your Wafer-Irons, and let it not be much thicker than a peece of Eight, or a
Crown, but let it bee longer than it is board; and when your wafer I∣rons bee hot enough, you must put one of these dough Coffins into them, and shutting your Irons, you must cause your wafers to bee baked on both sides
These Wafers must bee eaten whilst they are piping hot, rather than when they are cold.
Moreover, in case you should ap∣prehend that your fine grated cheese will stick to the wafer Irons, you shall not need to put any of it in the mixture of these your said wa∣fers, but after you shall have prepa∣red small pastry coffins to make your wafers withall, you may strew scraped cheese very gently upon them, and the bignesse of a wall∣nut, or of two Hazel Nuts, will serve turn for each wafer. This gra∣ted Cheese or small sliced Morcells, which you please, you may strew a∣long the Coffin, and so rowling them into the said Coffins, you may place them in your wafer Irons, to cause
them to bee baked on all sides, which you may bee sure off, so you do of∣ten turn your Wafer Irons in the baking of your said wafers.
Another manner how to make most Ex∣cellent Fritters.
TAke a Pinte of Milk, and cause it to bee heated a little more than Luke-warm in a skillet, after which put about two pound more or lesse, of flower in a pewter bason, or in a∣ny other vessel, after which dissolve the flower and milk together, the latter being somewhat hot.
To which you must also adde a half quarter of a pinte of yolks of Eggs beaten, in a Porringer, and mingle them gently with the afore∣said paste, which you may do with a woodden ladle.
And before you put your Eggs into the said Mixture, you must dis∣solve
into your aforesaid paste half a spoon full of good yeast, that is to say, of thick yeast.
After all which you may add un∣to the said paste, three quarters of a pound of good fresh butter, which you shall have caused to bee melted in a skillet, and just as the said butter beginnes to boyle, you must poure it into the said paste, adding there∣unto half a handful o•• salt beaten very small.
Observe, that after your Eggs are once put into your paste, you must not much stirre the said mixture, and if you do stirre it, it must be very gently, because that otherwise your wafers would not bee so pleasing to the taste, nor so render and light, as otherwise.
You must place all this Mixture in the Chimney Corner, and cover it very warm, untill it bee risen and have wrought, and you must let it remain so, at least the space of two hours before it will bee sufficiently raised, which depends of the good∣nesse
of the yeast, or leaven which you must put into it.
When your paste shall bee thus sufficiently risen and worked, you may heat your Wafer Irons, and rubbing them over with butter, you may poure in your paste into them with a woodden ladle, and as soon as you have put the said paste into them, you must close your said Irons and turning it upside downwards, you must heat it over the fire, and when you conceive your Wafer is well baked on the one side, you must turn it on the other, untill your said Wafer bee well baked, which must be done over a light fire not too hot, and your Wafer-Irons must be sup∣ported by an Iron-Trivet large e∣nough to contain your wafer-Irons.
YOu may make your Wafers farre Excellenter and pleasing, or if in case you will go to the char∣ges of grating into the mixture of your said Wafer paste, three or four Holland Biscuites, some Rice, or if you please some Naples Biscuit, or Dyet bread; and two penny-worth of Saffron dissolved, which will greatly adde to their tendernesse, pleasantnesse in eating, and delight∣fulnesse.
So likewise after your said wafers are baked, you must sprinkle them over with half a spoonfull of good fresh butter, which you must have ready melted by you for that pur∣pose, and afterwards powder them with good store of Cinamon, and fine powder Sugar smal beaten toge∣ther,
and after all this sprinkle them again with Rose-water, or Orange flower-water, which will give them a most fragrant rellish.
And to render them yet better, you may adde unto the said mix∣ture, a quarter of a pound of the best Marrow you can get, small sliced or grated.
The Manner to make Excellent Frit∣ters, or Bunns.
TAke a pinte of fine flower, adde thereunto, three small Cream∣cheeses made the very same day you intend to use them; beat three Eggs into them, and about the bignesse of an Egge of Marrow, grated or small shredded, dissolve all these in∣gredients, and mix them very well, which you may do by adding there∣unto half a pinte of White-wine, or more if need bee, season the whole
with a little beaten Salt, and with an Ounce of powdered Sugar; You must make your said mixture or paste as thick as boyled broath, af∣ter which you may adde thereunto Pippins smal shredded, and preser∣ved Lemmon-peels, or others, smal grated or shredded, or cut into little morcels.
When your said mixture is thus prepared, you must cause sweet suet to bee melted, or sweet butter, or oyl which you please, and do love best, and when it is sufficiently hot, you must dissolve your said mixture therein with a spoon, taking your spoon very full, and so mixing it with your said Suet, Butter or Oyle.
As soon as your Fritters or Bunns, shall be thus fryed, you must take them out of the Frying-pan, and let them drop out all their moisture, & afterwards placing them in a dish you must powder them very well with Sugar, and sprinkle them with Rose∣water, or Orange flower-water, if you
Please, as aforesaid, in the Transla∣tors Additional Observations, which you may also follow by adding of Rice, Biscuite, and the like to your Fritters, as to the Wafers and Pan-Cakes.
Observe, That you may make your mixture farre more fine and substantial if you please, and even bring them to a kind of a soft paste, by putting the lesser quantity of wine into them.
And this, the last kind of paste will serve to make.
That is to say, instead of common Fritters, you may divide your paste into smal round morcels, as big as Hazel Nuts, which you must cause to be fried in your sweet Suet, in your sweet butter, or in your oyle, untill they bee quite brown fryed or well baked.
Another kind of Fritters, which are commonly called in French Tour∣rons, or pointed Fritters, in shape like unto a Turret.
CAuse Rice and milk to bee boy∣led together, or Rice and water, but it must bee very thick, and when it is become cold, you must peele your Rice and beat it, adding there∣unto some peeled and beaten sweet Almonds if you please.
Put all these ingredients into a Dish, adde thereunto half as much, or thereabouts of flower, some raw Eggs, and a little salt small pound∣ed, and some white wine, or milk at your own discretion, mingle all these together, and frame them in∣to a kind of a pudding or broath, or into a paste which is neither too stiff nor too supple, you may add there∣unto some Raisins, and the peels of Lemmons grated.
After which you must cause some sweet suet to bee moulten, or butter if you will, and when it is sufficient∣ly hot, you must take a spoonfull of the aforesaid mixture, and poure into the Frying-Pan.
Cause these your Fritters, to bee fryed on both sides, and to this end you must turn them in the Frying-Pan the one after the other, And when they are well fryed, you must lay them in a warm Dish, and cause them to bee well drained or stifned, after which changing their Dish, you must powder them with Sugar and Cinamon, before you intend to eat them.
The Manner how to make another kind of Fritters.
KNead flower with water, and sa't and make your paste pretty stif, & spread it with a rowling-pin,
cut it into small square peeces, or into any other figure you please af∣ter which fry them in butter, or in sweet suer, or in oyl.
And when you shall have drained them, you may powder them with Sugar, or else you may make use of them to garnish a Dish of Spin∣nage, or a Dish of Pease, or an open Fish-Pye, or any other kind of pa∣stry-meat.
TAke five Pints of Milk, one quar∣ter of a Peck of flower, eight Eggs, two penny-worth of Saffron a
whole Nutmeg grated, mix all these together, and beat them well untill you bring them to a sufficient thick body, as of a pudding or thick broath, shred thereinto fifteen or sixteen Pippins, and half a pound of Currans, adde thereunto one spoonful of yeast, adde thereunto half a quarter of an ounce of Ginger powdered, stir all these ingredients very well together, and set them in a great earthen pot, either in the chim∣ney-corner, or in the passage of an entry, where the ayr and wind plays through, to rise and work, and leave them so working, for at least the space often or twelve hours.
You must observe to put them in a sufficient big vessel, least they chance to work over.
Having thus well mingled, steep∣ed and worked them, you may bake your Pancakes thereof, as thick or thinne as you please your self in a Frying-pan, with good fresh butter, over a quick fire.
Observe that in case you intend to
eat your said Pancakes hot you must make them the thinner, if you keep them to bee eaten cold, you must make them the thicker.
Observe that in the mingling of your Pancakes, you must not put any butter into them, for that would hinder their baking, and would make them too washy, &c.
And having thus baked them; you must powder them with sugar and Cinamon powdered, and sprinkle them with Rose-water, or Orange-flower-water if you please.
The Manner how to make Minced-Pyes, called in French Rissoles like unto Muscherons.
TAke Beef, Mutton, Pork, or Veal, either roasted, or boyled, mince it very small, season it with a few salt spices, after which make small Pastry-Coffins of white dough
half refined, into which put a little of the aforesaid Minced-meat, and when your little minced Pyes shall bee thus fashioned, you must fry them in sweet suet which is hot, in the same manner as if you would ma••e Fritters, and when your said little Pyes are baked yellow on the one side of their Crust, you must turn the other side of them into your sweet suet, which you must do with a smal woodden spoon, without breaking or cracking your said Pies, and when they are brown fried on both sides, you must draw them out of the Suet with a Skimmer or peir∣ced spoon, and lay them dry.
Another manner of minced Pies, brown fryed, being of a finer leav∣ed paste.
TAke good boyled Meat, or ra∣ther let it bee roasted, and if it bee not all together over roasted it will bee the better; As for example, take the fleshy part of any foule, or a brisket of veal, and you must ob∣serve, if there bee any thick skins or sinnews in the said Flesh, you must take them out, after which you must mince your said Meat, and put it into a Portenger or Dish, with a little salt spices, some Currans, some Pine-apple Kernels, a little Sugar according to your own liking, and a little Rose-water, all which you must mingle together.
And having so done, you must prepare small Paste Coffins of fine leaved dough, and make them a∣bout the thickness of one half Crown
wrap into your said Coffins, about the bignesse of a little Egge or great Wal-nut of your said Minced meat, more or lesse as you please your self, and so make up your minced Pyes, varnish them, and put them into the Oven upon some paper.
These kind of minced Pyes, do require an easy fire to bee baked by, just as if you were to bake a Tart, let them also bake leasurely and in case they bee very little ones, one half hours time will serve to bake them.
When these minced Pyes are well nigh baked, and that their crust is become brown, you must draw them forth of your Oven, and pow∣der them with Sugar, and after that put them a while into the Oven again, to finish their baking, and to cause the Sugar which you have strewed on the top of them to be∣come glazed, after which serve up your said minced-pyes as hot as you please.
The manner how to make excellent good Cheese-Cakes.
YOu must take some peeces of Marrow, and let them be some∣what long sliced, each of them as long as your Thumb, if it bee pos∣sible, scald or perboile them in wa∣ter which is well nigh boyling hot, after which take them out of the said water with a skimmer, and let them drop a while, and thus having laid them one by one upon a Table, powder them with powder Sugar, as much as you can, and adde there∣unto a little salt spices, or a little salt and beaten Cinamon.
After that make up your small Coffins of fine leaved Dough very thinne, fill up one of the Corners with a peece of Marrow as long as your Thumb, and if it be requisite, you may moreover adde thereunto some Sugar Seasoned as abovesaid,
and then cover over the otherlid of the Coffin upon the top of the said Marrow, you must also somewhat moisten the borders of your said paste, that so you may with the more ease joyn them together.
When your cheese Cakes are thus filled up, you must fry them in but∣ter, or in sweet suet, and you must have a care not to spil them in the turning of them, and when they shall bee thus well fryed; you must take them out of the frying-pan with a Skimmer, and having well powdered them with Sugar, and Cinamon, if you please, you may presently eat them.
Another Manner of Cheese-Cake.
TAke green cheese uncreamed, which is new made, or else curd∣led Cream, or dryed Cheese, small
shredded or scraped, add thereunto raw Eggs, a little fine flower, or rather pastry Cream, some few Currans, Pine apple Kernels, and some Sugar, seasoned with salt spi∣ces, or only salt spices alone, you may also adde thereunto, a little boyled or roasted mince meat, min∣gle all these ingredients very well to∣gether, and make as it were a pud∣ding of them, by adding of a little milke to them, and let this your said Pudding be somewhat liquid.
Fill your Pastry Coffins of fine leaved Dough with these puddings, and so make your Cheese cakes of them, which you must fry in but∣ter or in sweet Suet, and after that you may powder them with Sugar and Cinamon, as aforesaid, which dependeth of your own pleasure.
The manner how to make buttered Wiggs, Simnels, or Cracknels.
PLace upon your Kneading-board about half a pint of fine flower, make a small gutter in the middle thereof, and put therein a∣bout half a glass-ful of beer yeast, as also as much warm water as will be requisite for to knead it and working it altogether you must reduce it into a thin paste, which may stand you instead of Leaven, wherefore you must make up your said paste into the form of a little Loaf, and you must place it in a warm place, that so it may speedily rise and swell; and if it be in Summer, one half quarter of an hours time will be sufficient to rise it.
Mean while that your leaven is a working, you must place upon your Kneading-board one quarter of a
pound of flower, make a hole in the midst of it, and put one pound of fresh butter into it, which butter you must have softned and worked with your hands in case it was too hard before; adde thereunto one ounce or a little more of salt fine bea∣ten, mixe all these things together, by adding as much cold water there∣unto as will bee necessary to knead this paste.
When your said paste shall bee half kneaded, you may take your a∣foresaid leaven if it be ready, that is to say, if it be risen, and have work∣ed, and then you must mingle it with your said paste as you do knead the same, or in the kneading thereof.
And having thus sufficiently kneaded it, you must cut it in pee∣ces, which you must work with your hands into little Loaves, which said Loaves you must afterwards spread open again with your Rowling-pin, to make Wiggs or Simnels of them.
Which being thus done, you must have water set over the fire in a skil∣let, kettle or preserving pan, and let it bee almost boyling hot, cast your Simnels into it, and let them re∣main therein, untill they swim on the top of the water; and then you must stirre them a little in the said water, and taking a skimmer you shall list up some of the said water into the Ayre, and in this manner you must besprinkle and wet your said Simnels, leaving them in the said water, until such time as that they are become stif and firm; which you may know, if so bee you do take one of the said Simnels out of the water, and do try by your hand∣ling of them whether they be stif e∣nough.
And when it shall appear unto you, that your said Simnels are suf∣ficiently hardned and swelled, you must then take them out of the said water with a skimmer, and place them to become cold and dry upon a drain, or in a Cullender, after
which you may put them into the Oven, and one half hours time will serve to bake these little ordinary Simnels.
But the Oven must bee very hot all over, just as if you would bake great Pasties in it.
And if so be your Symnels do not become brown enough in the bak∣ing, you must not forget to put a few hot Embers into the Oven, that so the heat of them may strike down again upon your Simnels, and give them a good collour.
Observe also, that in case you do not put any butter in the mixture of your Simnels, you will only make bare and ordinary Simnels with wa∣ter, which are better accounted of by several people then your buttered Simnels.
Now as to your Simnels which are made with Egges, they are made in the same manner as your Simnels, with butter, save only that you must mingle the Egges together with the paste as you knead it; and in this
wise, for one quart of flower you must beat fifteen eggs into it, and only adde thereunto one pound of butter.
So likewise must your paste whereof you intend to make your Simnels with eggs be well and tho∣rowly kneaded and farre softer and finer than that of the other ordinary Simnels, Wiggs, and Cracknels.
Moreover, you must also observe that you must not make your Oven too hot for your Simnels with eggs, as for those which are only made with water and salt, or with butter.
The manner how to make the ordi∣nary Pastry Biscuit.
AS for example, take eight eggs, put them into a dish, and beat them as if you would make an Om∣melet of them, adde thereunto one half penny-worth of Coriander-seeds
beaten to powder, or green Anniseeds, and one pound of powder sugar, beat all these ingredients to∣gether, and adde thereunto three good quarters of a pound of flower, and beat them all again very well together, untill such time as your paste becometh white, and observe that the more you beat and dissolve your said paste, the better your Bis∣ket will bee, and the tenderer and pleasanter.
When your said paste is become thus white, you must pour it into your Bisket-mould, which are by your Pastry-men called Bisket Tart-pans, and they are commonly made of Lattin; and you must note that before you do fill them up with the aforesaid paste, you must rub their inside with fresh melted but∣ter.
You must but just fill your said moulds, and you shall not need to trouble your self to fill them, but when the Oven is in a readiness to bake them; after which you must
very well powder the tops of your said Biscuits, and put them imme∣diately into the Oven, at a pretty distance from the hot Embers.
You may make a trial with one or two Biscuits, as to your saying to make them, that so you may not receive too great losse and prejudice, if they should not hit right, since this kind of pastry Biscuits is very hard to be well and rightly made.
Your Oven must be but slender∣ly heated to bake these kind of Bis∣cuits; and its harth must bee just as hot as the Harth of an Oven is when as the bread is half baked, or there a∣bours and no hotter.
You must also observe to leave the Oven open, and oftentimes have an eye over your Biscuit, whilst it is a baking; For in the first place it will runne up and swell, then it will receive its colour, or grow brown, all which will happen about half a quarter of an hour after it hath been in the Oven.
Now in case your Biscuit becom∣meth
black in the Oven, that is a sign the Oven is too hot, and there∣fore you must draw the Bisket to∣wards the Ovens mouth, to let the heat of the Oven slacken a little. But on the contrary, if your Bisket doth remain pale and white in the Oven, that is a sign the Oven is not hot enough, and as then you must close the mouth of the Oven with its lid, to keep in the heat; but you must also observe to open it very of∣ten again, lest your said Bisket should chance to burn:
When your said Bisket hath got∣ten a good colour, and that it hath been a quarter of an hour and a half in the Oven, or a little longer, ac∣cording to the proportion of its big∣ness, you must take one of your said Biskets out of the Oven and touch∣ing it softly with your hand, and if you finde that it is hard, and maketh resistance, without becoming flat, you may assure your self that it is sufficiently baked, and at that very instant you may draw your said Bis∣ket
out of the Oven, and you must also draw it out of its mould, or Tart-pan while it is hot.
The manner how to make Bisket according to the Queens Mode or delight.
MAke paste as it is prescribed in the fore-going Chapter, save only put the fewer eggs therein, since the paste for the Queens Bisket must be stronger and finer, so that instead of eight eggs you must put but six therein, and so proportio∣nably more or less.
When your paste is thus prepa∣red, you must spread it with a ladle upon white paper, and you must give these kind of Biskets a round form like unto little Loaves, and you must powder them over with su∣gar.
You must give your Oven a little
hotter harth for these Biskets than for the other common Biskets.
So soon as your Queens Bisket is baked, you must draw them out of the Oven, and you must loosen them from off their papers by gently pas∣sing a knife slender or limber be∣twixt the bisket and the said paper.
The manner to make Italian or Piedmont Bisket.
THe paste must bee made in the same manner as your Queens Bisket.
Only this kind of Bisket you must spread longwise upon the paper, and make it about a fingers breadth thick, and as narrow as you possibly can, and not above one fingers length, powder it with sugar, and so put it into the Oven.
You must let this Bisket remain but a little while in the Oven, because
it will be presently baked, but your Oven must bee hot, as if it were to bake the Queens Bisket, and all one.
And as soon as your Bisket is ba∣ked, you must immediatly separate it from its paper as afore said.
The manner to make Cinamon Bisket.
TAke March-pane paste, adde thereunto powdered Cinamon, mingle them very well together, and let your paste be very hard, rowling it upon your Dresser-board, and give it two turns, that is, you must twice round it, and spread it over your Dresser-board.
When your said paste is thus rowled for the second time, you must again spread it with your rowling-pin, just as if you intended to make
a Coffin of paste, and let it not bee thicker than a peece of Eight, or a Crown; then you must cut this paste in the form of little Lossin∣ges, or Squares, and put them up∣on paper; and you must observe to let your Oven harth be very hot; in the same manner as your Ovens usu∣ally are when the bread is taken out of them; and you may observe, that these kind of Biskets must be dried in a stove.
The manner how to make Sugar-frosted Biskets.
CLarifie a quarter of a pound of Loaf-sugar, and cause it to bee baked until it attain to the con∣sistency of a thick sirrop, or like un∣to sugar rosat, or lossinges of Da∣mask rose-sugar, after which adde thereunto two whites of eggs redu∣ced to froth, beat all these things to∣gether,
and spread them upon a pa∣per in the form of small Biskets, and let the Oven bee but very mildly heated.
The manner to make Biskets of Pistaches.
TAke Pistaches and shale them, cause them to bee pounded in a Morter, and you may mingle them in the fore-going Chapters mixture for Sugar-frosted Bisket, and this will frame you a kind of a pleasant green Bisket.
The manner to make a Gamby Bisket, that is to say, a crooked form of Bisket, or Kertled Bisket.
TAke fine leaved paste after it hath been well foulded, and that it is squared with four corners, you must make your Pasty Coffin of about the thickness of a half Crown, and af∣terwards cut it out into whatsoever shape you please, and place them upon the paper.
Let them have an indifferent coole harth or Oven, and it will bee time enough to put these Biskets into the Oven when you draw your other Pastry work out of the Oven, and these kind of Biskets require about half an hours time to be baked, and when they shall be thus well baked, you may glase them well over with sugar.
The manner how to make Lenton Bisket, or Bisket to bee eate in Lent.
AS for example, you must take half a pound of sweet Almonds well peeled, and pounded in a Mor∣ter, one pound and a half of pow∣der sugar, and about the bigness of a small Almond of Gum cantraga dis∣solved leasurely in a spoonful of warm water.
Mingle all these things together in a Morter with a couple of whites of eggs, and a spoonful of the juyce of a Lemmon, or instead thereof grate therein about the bigness of a Hazel Nut, or of a Nutmeg of the Rine of a raw Lemmon peele, and you must likewise pound all these things in a Morter at least for the space of one hours time, and you must reduce it into a paste a little finer than a Marchpane, insomuch that you can
hardly any more knead or work it.
When your paste is thus prepa∣red, you must place it upon your kneading-board, and you must work and harden it thereon with a little sugar powdered, and with a little meal mingled together, after which stretch out the said paste with the rowling-pin, and give it two or three turns, that is to say, that you must stretch out your said paste, and fold it in again three or four several times with your rowling-pin, just as if you intended to make fine lea∣ved paste; finally, you must em∣plain and even it throughly, and make it about the thickness of a peece of Eight, or of a Crown, and you must cut it in even parts, or long morcels, in the same form and man∣ner of your Flesh days bisket; after which you must spread it upon pa∣per, and so put it into the Oven, gi∣ving it a gentle harth like unto that when you intend to bake Cinamon bisket.
The manner to make common or ordinary Marchpane.
TAke a pound of sweet Almonds, new and sound ones, put them into almost boyling water, let them soak in it about a quarter of an hour from off the fire, only to soften their skins, after which having peeled them and as you have peeled them you must put them into fresh cold water.
All your Almonds being thus peeled; you must rowl them in two or three waters, and after that you must lay them upon a drain, or put them in a Cullender to be strained, which being done, you must pound them in a Marble or Stone Morter, adding at several times about half a little glass full of Roses in the poun∣ding of them, to hinder them from making of oyl.
You must pound your Almonds until such time as that they are redu∣ced
unto a very fine paste, and that they be throughly bruised, insomuch that when you handle the said paste you do not finde any thing therein that is hard or rough, you must also have a care that this your said Al∣mond paste be firm enough when it is thus pounded, which will oblige you to put a little Rose-water into it as you do pound it.
Your Paste being thus prepared, you must adde thereunto powder sugar about half a pound, or three quarters of a pound for one pound of peeled Almon is, mingle well to∣gether the sugar with the pounded Almonds, and adde thereunto the white of a raw egge, after which you must again beat all these ingre∣dients very well together in a Mor∣ter, with a Pessel, and when your paste shall be sufficiently cemented and knitted together, take it our of the Morter and put it into a dish.
After which knead your said paste upon a clean Table, and now and then powder it with some powder
sugar instead of flower, for to hin∣der the sticking of your said Almond paste upon your hands, or Knea∣ding-board, or Table.
Cut this said Paste into as many peeces as you please, and shape them into any form whatsoever you will your self, and if you be minded to make Tarts of it, you must make them as thick as seven or eight fheets of paper, and when you have shaped them, set them upon white paper; after which you must put them into an Oven which is above half cold, to dry your said March∣pane almost half dry, but not to burn it, wherefore your Oven must but just be warm, so that you may put your said Marchpane into the O∣ven after you have drawn your Bread or Bisket out of it.
When your said Marchpane is thus baked, or dryed, draw it forth of the Oven to glase it, that is to say, to varnish it speedily, with sugar frost, which you may spread over your Marchpanes either with the
back of a silver spoon, or with your knife, after which you must put your Marchpane into the Ovens mouth again, to dry the frosted su∣gar, which will bee done in a half quarter of an hour, or thereabouts, and afterwards draw your March∣pane for good and all, and if you please you may after it is drawn stick on the top of your Marchpane some slices of Cinamon, and of Lemmon peels preserved, which you must do before the frosted sugar is grown cold, that so you may not break or ravel the same.
Note, that your Marchpane will require more time to bee dried in a Stove, but both your frosted sugar and your Marchpane it self will bee farre more beautiful, and will eate farre more pleasingly, or tender.
The manner how to make Macaroons.
TAke sweet Almonds as it hath been said in the fore∣going Chapter concerning the Marchpanes, and having peeled and pounded them, you must reduce them into a soft paste; as for ex∣ample, To one pound of Almonds, adde thereunto the same weight of powder sugar, and the whites of four eggs, mingle all these things to∣gether, and adde a little Rose-water to them, and beat or pound them again in your Morter to make your paste fast and binding, however it must be somewhat liquid and soft.
When this your said paste shall be thus prepared, spread it upon white paper in bits, at a pretty distance a∣sunder, and let these said bits bee somewhat long wise made in the shape of a Chesnut, after which
powder them with fine beaten pow∣der, and then put them into the O∣ven to bake or dry, until you feel that they are very fine and stiffe on the tops.
Note, that your Oven must have but an indifferent heat, as it is exprest in the Chapter concerning the Marchpanes, however the harth must be something warm, the bet∣ter to raise and swell the paste.
Your Macaroons must bee left a little longer in the Oven than your Marchpane, since they are to bee made somewhat thicker, and you may leave your Macaroous in the Oven until they be quite dry, or un∣til such time as that the Oven it self is become cold again.
However your good Pastry-men do not leave their Macaroons so long in the Oven, lest they should become over-coloured, and do therefore draw them before they are quite dried; but in lieu thereof they do place them on the top of the O∣ven well covered, and kept warm for
the space of four and twenty hours at least, that so they may dry lea∣surely, and not lose their white∣ness, which is all the beauty of your said Macaroons.
The manner how to make Lemmon or Citron paste.
PUt a quarter of a pound of loafe sugar into a Morter, and powder it, adde thereunto the white of an egge and a little juyce of a Lem∣mon, and the bigness of two Hazel Nuts of raw Lemmon peels well grated; beat all these things toge∣ther, and incorporate and mixe them very well, until you have brought them to a hard paste, and that you cannot scarce work it any more.
After which you must divide your said paste into morcels as bigge as a Wall-nut, which you must round
in your hands, as you do work them with powdered sugar, after which you must spread them upon, and range them upon white paper, and afterwards you may put them but half way into the Oven, for if you should put them quite into the bot∣tom of the Oven, they would bee subject to burn; you must also have a care to give them an indifferent heat, and the which may bee like unto the same which is requisite to bake Macaroons, and have a care not to close your Oven.
These Citron or Lemmon Pastes will require a quarter of an hours baking.
And you must observe to draw them when you perceive the sugar is wellhardned and firm.
Another manner of Citron or Lemmon Paste.
YOu must compose or frame your paste just as in the fore∣going Chapter, only that to this you must adde twice as much raw Lem∣mon peele; when your said Paste is thus prepared you must separate it in morcels as bigge as the half of a Wall-nut; press them a little with your fingers, and afterwards place them upon white paper, and cause them to be baked in the self same manner as your fore-going Lem∣mon paste was ordered.
The Manner how to make a Paste of Eggs.
MAke up a Paste of a little flower, and some water and
salt, or if you please make use of a finer paste, spread it abroad, and cut it into morcels, raise the borders of each peece to make as many little Pies as you have Peeces, beat a fresh egge into each of these Pastry Coffins, season them with salt, su∣gar, and with a little beaten Cina∣mon, after which put on their lids, and cause these little Pies to bee mo∣derately baked, or fried in fresh but∣ter, and you must have a care to give off frying of them before your eggs be too much hardned.
The manner to make an Egge Pye in a Pot.
MAke an omelet well seasoned with salt, with an Onion, and with Parsly, or with other Herbs small shredded, which said Omelet you must mince, and put it into an earthen pot, together with the broth
of white Pease and good butter, or oyl, which you please, season all these again with salt, and with spi∣ces dissolved in verjuyce, and in the Summer time you may adde some Goose-berries unto it; after you shall have caused all these ingredi∣ents to boyl a while, adde unto them some hard yolks of eggs, and let them be stuck or garnished with some Coves; you may if you think good adde some fried sliced Onions thereunto; serve up this said Pasty piping hot, you may put some Sip∣pits in the top of it, after you shall have opened its lid.
The manner to make a Tart of Eggs, or an Egge Cake.
PUt into a Tart-pan about the bigness of an egge of fresh but∣ter, and whilst it is a boyling you may beat five or six eggs, adde salt
unto them, and the bigness of a great Turkie egge in grated white bread, or two spoonfuls of fine flower, beat all these ingredients very well toge∣ther, and afterwards adde unto them two or three spoonfuls of Cream, or of Milk, and a little quantity of sweet spices, or beaten Cinamon, after which beat your eggs once a∣gain, and pour them into the Tart-pan, when your butter shall bee well melted, and half red, cover your Tart-pan with its lid, upon which you must lay hot Ashes, and a few embers, that so your Tart may bee baked on all sides, and when it is throughly baked serve up your said Tart piping hot; you may if you please grate either Cheese or sugar upon it, and sprin••le it with some rose water if you think it fitting, which will make it the better ta••ted.
The manner how to make an Egge Tart with Apples.
PUt into a Porrenger or Dish the bigness of two eggs, or a little more of the mellow part of a roa∣sted Apple, adde thereunto two spoonfuls of fine flower, five or six eggs, and some salt at your own discretion, dissolve and beat all these together, until such time as the flower be well incorporated with the other ingredients, pour this mixture into a Tart-pan or Skillet, or in a Dish, in which you shall have dis∣solved the bigness of an egge, or thereabouts of fresh butter, cover your Tart-pan, and put upon it some fire, and cover also the lid with a few embers, and after a quarter of an hour or little more you must un∣cover your Tart-pan, to see whether your Cake be baked, and whether it be sufficiently coloured both above
and below, and if you finde it to bee so you may dish it up, and serve it to the Table, after you shall have pow∣dered it with some sugar, and sprinkled it with some rose-water, & stuck into it some few slices of pre∣served Lemmon-peels.
Observe that instead of the mel∣low of Apples, to make a variety of the said Tarts, you may take the mellow of Pomkins, or of any o∣ther fruit you have a mind to, so you do first boyl or bake it before you make use of it to make your Tart or Cake withall, according to the former prescriptions in the fore∣going Chapter.
The Manner how to make a Cake, or Tart of beaten Eggs, in the form of a Pompion Tart.
AS for example, break four or five Eggs, put the whites of
them apart in a Porringer, and their yolks in another Porrenger, beat the whites of your said eggs tho∣rowly until it bee reduced into a scum, which you may do with a little bundle of twiggs; beat also the yolks of the said eggs, after which you must put the bigness of two eggs of good fresh butter into a little Skillet or Tart-pan, and when your said butter is so melted, and become brown, you must beat the whites of your eggs again, and put two good spoonfuls of powder sugar into it, and salt at discretion; when your butter shall be almost become brown fried, put a little tost of bread into, or an upper crust cut round, and as bigge as the half of the palm of your hand, or thereabouts, and pre∣sently afterwards pour the yolks of your eggs into it, and afterwards add the whites of your eggs also to it; cause these eggs to be baked over a few hot Cinders, which will bake them in a very little while, and if you have not a special care will
easily be burnt, you must give them the same colour as you give unto your dishes of eggs and milk, after which dressing them up on a Tren∣cher, you may powder them with some sugar, and so serve them up to the table.
The manner how to dress a dish of Eggs like unto Fritters.
TAke Nipp, or Cats Mint, Balm, or Bawm, and Groundsel, Mal∣lows, and Tansie herbs, and Parsley, of each a twig or two, young Bug∣loss as much as of the others, where∣unto you may adde young Leeks, Scallions, or Onions, shred all these Herbs very small, after which, as for example, you must beat six or eight eggs in the same manner as if you were to make an Omelet, adde your shredded herbs thereunto, and as much salt as you think fitting.
After which cause some good fresh butter to be melted in a Skillet, or in a great dish, and when your said butter is half brown fried, take your beaten eggs with a great spoon, and pour them into your said butter by spoonfuls, until there bee enough to make three or four good Fritters a∣bout the bigness of the palm of your hand, or thereabouts, and when these said Fritters shall be sufficiently boyled or baked, draw them forth of the Skillet, and so proceed to make as many as you please, or have occasion to use; but you must note that these Fritters must be eaten very hot, and if you please you may grate sugar and Cinamon upon them.
Another manner of Egge-tant, like unto Fritters, or Macaroons.
CAuse your eggs to be boyled un∣till they be hard, and after that mince them with Parsley, and a lit∣tle Onions, and Time, season this mixture with some salt, and incor∣porate it with the white of egges, or with the yolk of a raw egge; after which make small balls thereof in the shape of small puddings of about the bigness of an egge, or in the form of a Macaroon, or any such like form according to your own fancy, cause them to be a little fried or baked over a Chafingdish, or in a Skillet, in butter half brown fried, after take them forth and let them dry, and powder them with a little Nutmeg, and with some salt if need be.
Another manner of Egge Tarts like unto Fritters.
BReak four eggs, adde to them salt, and beat or stir them well, and make an Omelet of them, and as soon as it shall be half fried, mince it with a handful of Parsley, mortified over a shovel with coals, adde half an ounce of currans thereunto, and as much Pineapple-kernels; incorporat this minced mixture together with a raw egge beaten, and a little flower, after which make small pellets of it, or small lumps in whatsoever shape you please, cause them to be fried in butter half brown, as it is exprest in the fore-going Chapter, and ha∣ving taken them out of the butter, and layed them dry, you may pow∣der them with sugar, and salt, if it be needful, and eat them before they grow cold.
The manner how to make a Biske of Eggs.
PUt into a good bigge dish a lay of good slices of Cheese between two lays of tosted sops of good houshold bread, sprinkle them a little with clear broth, or thin Pease∣porridge, or any other clear por∣ridge which is well seasoned with butter and salt, let the whole soak and settle a while upon the fire, after which garnish your portage with some Parsley but grosly shredded, unto which adde some poached eggs in water, or dress it in any other manner you please, either intire, or in peeces; you may also put be∣twixt your said eggs some Carps Milts, or Rows, or some other small Fishes, as Smelts, Gudgeons, small Roches, and the like, or else some sippets of tosted bread, adde ther∣unto a few Capers, Muscharons, or
such like other Junkets for Fish-days, having first well boyled and seaso∣ned them; some there are that do adde currans unto them, and boyled or stewed pruens; season all this a∣foresaid mixture with some whole Cloves, or broken into good bigge morcels, or any other fragrant Spi∣ces as Ginger, or the like.
After all which you must again adde thereunto as much broth, pease porridge, or any other lean por∣ridge, that is to say, porridge made without flesh in it, as you shall think requisite, and afterwards you must place your dish on the fire a∣gain for a pretty while, having a care that your sfices of bread do not cake to the bottom of your dish. Unto this Biske you may adde some veritryce, or some green fauce; some also do put Wine into it, and when you shall conceive that this your said Biske is well-nigh ready, and well savoured, you may grate in∣to it a little Nutmeg, or a little white loaf crust, and so serve it up to the table.
The manner to make arkinde of a broth or sauce of eggs.
CAuse the best Oyl you can get to bee heated, break two eggs into it, and draw them forth of it a∣gain before the yolks of the eggs do become very hard, after which put them into a dish, and adde unto them a sauce made with an Onion cut in round slices, and fried in oyl, season the whole with salt, and with verjuyce, and grate some Nut∣meg into it.
The manner how to make a Tansie.
PUt, as for example, the yolks of eight eggs into a silver or pewter dish, but it must not be an over bigge
one, & if it be on a Flesh day, dissolve them with about half a pint of good flesh broth, which hath been made without Herbs, and instead of broth upon Fish-days, you may make use of Cream, or of Milk, adde there∣unto a little salt well beaten, and two Macaroons small grated, or as much grated Bisket, adde there∣unto also two or three spoon∣fuls of the juyce of Beet-roots which shall have been pounded in a Morter, together with Rose∣water, adde thereunto also half a quartern of powder sugar, pour all this mixture into a dish, into which you shall have melted about the big∣ness of a Wall-nut of good fresh butter, and thus set your Tansie upon the fire, and let it be hardned, at the bottome of your dish, after which, and that it begins to bee like∣wise half hardned on the top, adde thereunto one ounce of preserved Lemmon peels grated, or shredded in small slices, or cut into little morcels, adde thereunto also one
ounce of Pistaches well peeled and pounded, and so let your Tansie become quite hard over an indiffe∣rent warm fire, and at the same time you must give a little brown colour at the top, by holding a hot shovel over it, and taking your said Tansie off from the fire, you may stick into your Tansie a few slices of preserved Lemmon peels, and af∣terwards powder it with sugar and cinamon if you please.
Describing the several ways and man∣ners how to dress Poached Eggs, and boyled Eggs in Water.
CAuse your water to boyl, after which break your eggs into it, the one after the other, and when they are pretty well boyled, take them out of the said boyling water, before they become too hard; these kind of poached Eggs may stand you
in stead to garnish an herb pottage withall, or any such other like dish. Observe also that these kind of eggs may bee served up alone, with di∣vers kinds of sauces, and also some∣times eggs may be poached in Milk, or in any sweet wine.
Put into a dish four poached eggs, season them with salt, and grate some old cheese upon them, which will give them a good rellish.
You must put some eggs into a dish, a few or many, adde a little salt unto them, and powder them also with sugar, and sprinkle them with a little rose-water, or verjuyce, or Lemmon juyce, or Orange juyce, unto which you may adde a little beaten cinamon, or cinamon-wa∣ter,
which will give them a good relish.
You may put as many eggs as you please into a dish, into which you have caused some good fresh butter to be melted, season it with salt, adde a little sugar unto it, and in case you are not minded to put any sugar into it, a little nut-meg grated or shredded will not bee a∣miss, you may give these eggs a co∣lour before you put them into the said dish, by holding a hot shovel or kettle over them for a while.
You must pour some green sauce over them, and so let them stand a while upon the fire, after which you may season them with salt, and with a little grated nutmeg.
Cause your butter to bee fried brown in a pan, and cause a sliced Onion to be fried in it, season it well with salt and pepper small powde∣red, and when your Onion is well fried, adde a drop or two of vinegar unto it, and presently after pour this sauce upon your poached eggs, to which you may adde a little gra∣ted Nutmeg. Observe, that in case your eggs be ranged in the dish, and laid in the form of a Fish, that as then they are called a Sammon of eggs.
Cause minced Onions to be fried in brown butter, and when they are well fried adde thereunto some vi∣negar and mustard mingled toge∣ther, season it well with salt, and
pour the said sauce upon your poached eggs.
Cause butter to bee fried brown, add thereunto a sauce made of sweet Mustard, or of Grapes dissolved in Wine, or of Hypocras; take your Frying-pan immediately off from the fire, lest your said sauce should boyl, which it must not do, and thus pour it upon your eggs; and in∣stead of frying your butter brown in the frying-pan, it will be sufficient to cause your butter to be only mel∣ted in a dish, after which you may adde either Hypocras, or dissolved Mustard unto it, as aforesaid, and then you may put your poached eggs into it, and afterwards powder them with sugar.
You may make a Pudding of
sweet Herbs, and put it into a dish, & place your eggs upon it, and adde thereunto some sippets of tosted bread dipped in butter, or some slices of your omelet, and upon all these you may grate some Nut∣meg, or some Sugar.
Cause good fresh butter to be mel∣ted in a dish over an indifferent hot fire, after which you may break your eggs, and having taken out the white, you may put all the yolks in∣to a porrenger by themselves, and after that you may pour them one by one into the said melted butter, and when your said butter shall be∣gin to boyl take your dish off from the fire, and so you may adde there∣unto a little powdered cinamon and sugar if you please.
BEat as many Eggs as you please into a good large silver dish, whites & yolks together, after which set your said dish over a Chafing∣dish of hot charcoals throughly lighted, putting nothing more into the said dish unto your eggs, but stir them continually with a silver spoon, that so they may not be∣come hard, not stick to the dish; and when they are enough poached to your fancy, take them off from the said Chaffingdish, and adde unto them a good quantity of Orange juyce, well seasoning your said eggs with salt, and if you please your self, powdering them with good store of sugar and cinamon, not
forgetting to put grated or shred∣ded Nutmeg into them, as you are a straining of them, and before you pour your Orange juyce upon them.
Observe, that this kind of butter∣ing, or poaching of Eggs without butter is least offensive to the pal∣late, and less nauseous to the sto∣mack, which is oftentimes over∣charged by the adding of butter to these kind of dishes and junkets.
Describing the several ways how to dresse and set out hard Eggs.
PUt a lump of butter into a dish, adde some vinegar or verjuyce unto it, and a little salt, and when your butter is melted, adde there∣unto three yolks of eggs which are hard boyled, dissolve them into
your sauce, and after that, garnish or set out your dish with hard boy∣led eggs cut in halves, or quarters, grate some Nutmeg over them, or the crusts of white bread grated.
Cause your butter to bee brown fried in the Frying-pan, and adde thereunto some parsley, or some minced leeks, or young onions, and when you have fried them, pour them into a dish, after you shall have seasoned them with salt and pepper, after which adde thereunto some hard eggs cut in twain; you may moreover adde some mustard unto them, or else make any other sauce you please, having caused your said sauce to be poured boyling hot over your said eggs, before you do serve them up.
Sometimes you may only fry
your hard boyled eggs all alone be∣ing cut in twain, without any other formality. At other times you may sleep them in flower dissolved in wine or milk, and afterwards you may fry them in the form of Frit∣ters, and having drawn them forth of the butter, and caused them to be drained, put them into a dish, and season them with salt; adde some vinegar unto them, or the juyce of a Lemmon, or make a sweet sauce over them; you may also powder them with beaten cina∣mon and sugar.
You may serve up these Eggs dressed as aforesaid, and adde unto them the several sauces prescribed in the fore-going Chapter for the poached eggs, which will be as plea∣sing as the former, either poached or hard boyled.
Put into a dish hard Eggs cut in twain, and season them with a white sauce made in your Frying-pan with the yolks or raw eggs, and with some verjuyce, or white wine dissolved together, having seasoned the whole with some salt, and with a few spices, or with the powder of a few dryed sweet herbs; and finally, pour all this said sauce over all your eggs.
The manner to dress Eggs according to the Portugal manner.
YOu must fry your hard Eggs in a Frying-pan as followeth; you must in the first place fry some Pars∣ly small shredded, or some Onions, or some Leeks in fresh butter, and when they shall be half fried, pour
unto them hard Eggs cut into rounds, whereunto you may adde a handful of Muscharoons well pee∣led, washed, and cut in slices, season the whole with salt, and fry it well with brown butter in your Frying-pan, and when they are almost fryed put some vinegar unto them.
When these your said eggs are minced in a dish, you may adde un∣to them some grated Nutmeg, and garnish them with some sippets of grated bread, wherewithall you must, as it were lard eggs; so like∣wise may you imbellish this your said Friscoss with slices of raw Lem∣mons.
Sometimes you may half fry onions and parsley in good fresh butter, and afterwards adde unto them hard boyled eggs cut in rounds, and a little before you take them out of the Frying-pan, you may adde unto them a sauce com∣posed of mustard, dissolved with ver∣juyce or vinegar, and seasoned with salt; and after you shall have given
all these a turn or two over the fire, you may serve them up, having gra∣ted a little Nutmeg therein.
The manner to make hard stuffed Eggs into the form of Pudding.
TAke sweet Herbs, as Lettice, Purselen, Burrage, Sorrel, Pars∣ley, or Chervel, and a little Time, take out the stalks from the said herbs, and if you will have your stuft eggs to bee high rellished, put the more Parsley into them, or the more Chervel, and a few Leeks or Onions, your said herbs being thus well picked and washed, cause them to bee minced, and season them with salt, with a little bea∣ten Cloves, or Pepper; so like∣wise may you mince joyntly with your said herbs some Muscharoons well washed and picked, which have
been formerly seasoned and boyled, and some persons do also add there∣unto some Cheese grated or scrap∣ed very small, pour all this said mix∣ture into a skillet, and cause it to be fryed with brown butter, or with any other suet, or with oyle, in case you love it.
And when this your said mix∣ture is half fried, some do add there∣unto some few Currans, and Pine∣apple Kernels, which is only to bee done at your own pleasure, being otherwise not requisite, and it will suffice only to season them with salt, and when this your said stuft mix∣ture is fryed, you must put unto them some hard yolks of Egges cut in small peeces, and give them a turn or two in the panne over the fire, after which dish them up, and garnish the said dish on the top and sides with hard Egges cut in twain.
Sometimes you may take out the yolks of your said Egges, and mingle them with your minced stuft ingre∣dients,
& when your said Pudding is fryed, you may fill the white of your Eggs therewith before you pour it upon the rest of your pudding, and sometimes instead of ranging of the white of your Egges about your pudding, you may garnish it with some sippets, or with small cakes of paste fryed in butter, and after all you may grate upon the whole a little Nutmeg, or crust of white bread.
The Manner how to dresse a dish of hard Eggs with Sorril.
DIvers do content themselves to cause some Sorril or Spinage to be fryed in a skillet or panne, after the stalkes are taken out, to which they adde good store of butter, and as much salt as you think fitting, whereunto you may adde some pep∣per or some salt spices, and your
Pudding-stuffe being baked, put your hard eggs into the same cut in twain, or in four quarters; and sometimes you may make a kind of a white sauce, with the yolks of raw eggs dissolved with a little verjuyce, or water, and you may also adde thereunto some fried for∣rel, and after all these you may adde your eggs unto the whole mixture, and also grate some Nutmeg into it.
The manner how to make several sorts of Omelets of Eggs, or Pancakes of Herbs.
THe first manner being an ordi∣nary Omelet, as for exam∣ple, take half a dozen of eggs, break them each severally upon a Tren∣cher, and after that beat them all together in a dish, and adde some
beaten salt to them, and some few drops of water, or of milk; cause some butter to be mested in a Skil∣let, and when it is brown fryed pour your beaten eggs into it, and let them fry more or less according to your pleasure, and according as you will have your Omelet to be lim∣ber or stiff; instead of butter you may use oyl, if you love it, or any kind of other sweet suet as well in the making of these as all other several sorts and kinds of O∣melets.
Now in case you desire to have your Omelet to bee a green one, you shall only need to mingle some Green-sauce with your Eggs as you beat them; or in case you make not your Omelet of a green colour, you may as then serve up your Green-sauce joyntly with it, but the usual custom is to eat your Ome∣let with a little vinegar, and some powder sugar.
Moreover, you may serve up joyntly with your said Omelet
some Mustard in saucers, either ordi∣nary Mustard, or sweet mustard, & in such a case you must serve up your Omelet rowled up, like unto a black pudding, and slit on each end, which said ends you must se∣parate a sunder, at a pretty distance the one from the other.
Beat a score or a dozen of Egges, more or lesse, season them with salt, and beat them, add unto them some grated white bread very smal, and some shredded parsly, and some powdered suggar, adde thereunto also good fresh butter, cut in small sliees, as much as you may judge to bee requisite or necessary to fry such a quantity of Egges, and whilst you beat them all together, you must put into a clean skillet a pound of butter, or of sallet oyle if you love it, and cause it to be heat∣ed,
till it doth almost boyl, when as you must presently pour it forth of the pann, and before you cleanse your panne again, you must pour into it your beaten Egges, seasoned with salt and butter, as aforesaid, let them bee well fryed, and only have a care to stirre them in the middle with a ladle, or with a stick some∣what broad and flat at the end, or with the point of a knife, that so your Egges may the better mingle and ciment.
When your Omelet is thus half baked, turn it with a Trencher or Skimmer, to cause it to bee baked on both sides, and to hinder it from sticking or cleaving to the pan, and that it may not burn, stir your pan very often.
When your said Omelet is served up, you must powder it with some Sugar, and sprinkle it with some Rose-water or Cinamon water.
Note also, that you make such a kind of Omelet as this in a Tart-pan which hath a high border and is co∣vered.
AS for Example, beat six Eggs, season them with salt, and your butter being melted in a skillet, pour your said Egges into it, and after∣wards you shall adde thereunto toasted bread, or the sliced crum of bread which hath been fryed in but∣ter. Note, that you must spread either the one or the other all over the pan as it is upon the fire; and when your Omelet is fryed, and that you are ready to pour it into the Dish, you must have a care that your tost∣ed bread do remain upwards, some moreover do cause parsly to bee fry∣ed, and pour it over all what is a∣foresaid, and sometimes you may pour a little vinegar upon it, almost the same quantity as the pastry-men do pour Rose-water upon their Tarts.
PAre three or four Pippins, and cut them in round slices, fry them in a pan with a quarter of a pound, or thereabouts, of fresh butter, and as much sugar as you please, and when your apples are thus fryed, you may pour upon them seven or eight Egges well beaten and seaso∣ned with salt, stir your pan often for to hinder that your Omelet may not stick to the pan and burn, and when you pour it out into the dish, you must do it so as that your apples may remain inclosed within the Egges, and afterwards powder your Omelet with Sugar and Cina∣mon if you please, and either eat it hot, or keep it till it bee cold, when you may sprinkle it with some Rose-water.
It will bee a readier way, if after your Apples bee fryed alone, you
take them out of the frying pan, and lay them dry upon a plate, after which making an Omelet some∣what slabby, after it shall bee indif∣ferently well fryed, you may rea∣dily clap the Apples into it, and after that grate some Sugar upon it.
Some do only place their fryed Apples upon a Trencher, and then cover them over with a washy Omelet, which they powder with Sugar.
BEat Eggs as many as you please, and having seasoned them, add thereunto Pine-applekernels, Currans, and the peels of preserved Lemmons, of each a proportiona∣ble quantity, your butter being mel∣ted and half brown fryed in the pan, pour your Eggs into it, and stir them
well, serve up this kind of Ome∣let so soon as it is indifferently well baked, you may also rowl it up like unto a pudding, and having grated some Sugar into it, you may also besprinkle it with some Rose∣water or Cinamon water.
BEat your Egges with a little Milk, whereunto you may adde a little grated bread, and like∣wise a little preserved Lemmon peel grated very small, and salt, at your own discretion, and in this wise make your Omelet as in the forego∣ing Chapter.
TAke the fat of a quarter of a pound of fat Bacon, or therea∣bouts, cut off the skin, and cut your lard into small morcels almost as big
as hazel Nuts; cause it to be melted in a frying pan, and when it be∣ginnes to be drye, adde thereunto six or seaven beaten Egges, and salt them in case you judge it requisite; unto which in the eating of it, you may add a little verjuice.
BEat six or seven Egges, adde thereunto about half aquarter of a pound of fat Bacon shredded very small, and some salt, if it bee requi∣site, beat all these ingredients well together, and pour them into the pan, in which you may put just as much butter brown fryed as you shall judge convenient to fry your Omelet, and to make it the delicater, you may adde thereunto some mel∣ted marrow, which will make you an admirable Omelet.
BEat six Egges, adde three or four spoonfulls of Cream there∣unto, and as much salt as you judge convenient, beat them all well together, and pour them into butter half brown fried, and cause this your said Omelet to bee very well fryed; and strew it with Sugar and Cinamon if you please.
CAuse about a quarter of a pound of butter to bee melted in a skil∣let, and pour thereinto half a dozen of Egges well beaten and sufficient∣ly salted, and when you have mixed these together, adde thereunto at least a Cows milking of good cream, and when your said Omelet is fryed and ready to bee served up, grate some Sugar over it, and be∣sprinkle
it with some Rose-wa∣ter.
You must observe, that you must not let your Cream boyle, where∣fore if your Omelet bee not e∣nough fryed, before you put your Cream into it, you must give it a colour, by holding a hot fire shovel over it.
MInce or shred all kind of sweet herbs together, as lettice, sor∣ril, borrage, buglose, Mallows, and the like, having taken away the stalks, and having well shredded these several kind of Herbs, you must beat them together with Egges, and may adde salt unto them, and if so bee you desire to have your said Omelet to bee sweet, adde some Currans thereunto.
And having caused some butter to be melted, pour your Egges into it, when it shall bee very hot, and
when your Omelet is thus prepa∣red and ready to bee forved up, grate Sugar into it, and Cinamon, if you please.
But and if you desire to have your Omelet to be of a nigher rel∣lish, put thereinto more salt, and spices.
CAuse your Egges to bee bea∣ten, and adde thereunto pars∣ly leaves small shredded, and salt, beat your Egges and make your Omelet.
You may also grosly shred a handfull or two of Parsly, and fry it in butter, unto which you may adde six or seven Egges well beaten and seasoned, and in the eating of your said Omelet, you may add some Vinegar or verjuice, or sugar thereunto.
Mince your Leeks very small, and afterwards beat them with eggs, which being seasoned with salt, you must pour them into butter half brown fried, or into oyl (if you love it) and so make an Omelet thereof, as aforesaid.
Take white Succory and steep it in boyling water, you may also make use of wilde Succory, let it steep long, but drain it, and after∣wards shred it very small, and sea∣son it with salt, you may adde Muscheroons unto it, which are but half boyled, and cut into small mor∣cels, cause all these to bee fried in butter, and let them dry, being ta∣ken out, and afterwards mingle
them with beaten eggs, and make an Omelet of them, which said O∣melet must not bee over-fried; and when it is ready to bee served up, grate some Nutmeg and Sugar up∣on it, or some Cinamon, which you please.
Whilst your butter is melting in your Skillet, you must ssice Cheese very small, and beat it together with your eggs; adde thereunto as much salt as you think fitting, and pour it all into some butter half brown fried, and in this manner proceed to make your Omelet as aforesaid.
Take as much of an Omelet of eggs as you may judge to be requisite for your purpose, mince it very
small, whereunto you may adde some Pine-apple kernels, some cur∣rans, or a pudding of Herbs, or min∣ced Fish, well seasoned and boyled, or rows, or miits of Carps which have been fried or boyled you may also adde to each of these ingredi∣ents Muscheroons half boyled and small sliced; mince all these with some whites or yolks of raw eggs, after which fill up great and large Cowcumbers there-with, after you shal have emptied & hollowed them, and after you have filled them up a∣gain, you must stop the two corners, and you must peel the Cowcum∣bers, and cause them to bee stewed between two Platters, or in a Tart∣pan, seasoning them with butter and water, and when your sauce is well nigh ready, adde thereunto a little verjuyce, or vinegar if need be, or fresh sauce, grate nutmeg upon it, and crusts of white bread, or powder it with sugar, accordingly, in reference to the quality or conditi∣on of the pudding, or minced meat,
where with all your Cowcumber is filled.
And instead of sauce you may make a very thin and plashy O∣melet to wrap up your Cowcumber in, thus stuffed at the same time, when as it is well fried and ready to be eaten.
You may also stuf a Cowcumber with a rosted kidney of Veal, after it hath been minced with its own fat, & some yolks of eggs, some Pine-ap∣ple kernels and Currans, and some salt, with what you please besides, according to the former prescrip∣tions.
And when this your said mixture shall bee well stewed between two dishes, or fried in a pan, you may proceed to fit it, and to serve it up, as it hath been already set down in the fore-going chapters.
Take of the flesh of the hinder
part of a Hare, or of any other Venison, mince it small with a little fat Bacon, some Pistaches, or Pine∣apple kernels, or Almonds, or Spa∣nish Nuts, or Hazel Nuts peeled, or Spanish Chesnuts, or French Chesnuts, roasted and peeled, or some crusts of bread cut in slices, and tosted like unto Chesnuts; season this minced stuff with salt, and with spices, and with some sweet Herbs; if your flesh be raw you must adde thereunto butter, marrow, or good sweet suet small shredded, and when you have caused it to be melted in a Skillet, pour thereinto your minced and seasoned meat, composed of the aforesaid ingredients, and cause it to befried.
After which cause some butter to be melted in a Skillet, and make an Omelet thereof, and when it is half fried, adde your aforesaid minced meat thereunto, and when your said Omelet is fried, take it out of the Frying-pan with a Skimmer or Trencher, without the breaking of
any part of it, and put it into a dish in such a manner as that the minced meat may appear uppermost; after which pour some Mutton broth up∣on your said minced meat, or the gravie of some other roast meats, grate some Nutmeg upon it, where∣unto you may adde some sippets of tosted or fried white bread, and some ssices of Lemmons.
Moreover, if your Hares flesh, or other Venison be roasted, it is so much the better, and you shall then only need to mince and season it, as it hath been aforesaid, and so proceed to make your Omelet, which when it is half fried or baked, adde your said minced meat unto it, and so make up your Omelet.
And by default of Venison you may make your said Omelet of any other or linary meat whatsoever.
TAke the kidnies of a loin of veal, after it hath been well roasted, mince it together with its fat, and season it with Salt, and spices, and with some dryed Time, or other sweet Herbs, you may adde there∣unto some small crusts of fryed Bread, or some boyled Mousche∣rons, or some peeled Pistaches, after which you may make up your Cmelet; And when it is half fryed, pour your minced meat into it, and when all your Omelet toge∣ther shall bee well fryed, serve it up in a dish, and grate some Nutmeg and Sugar upon the top of it.
TAke a Carp or some other Fish, according to your pleasure, take out the bones very well, add there∣unto the Milts of Carps, season them with salt and pepper, or with spices, and if you please you may adde some Mouscherons unto them, mince all these together, add some Pine-applekernels thereunto, some Currans, and preserved Lemmon∣peels, very small shredded; cause all this to bee fryed in a frying pan, or in a Tart-pan with good store of butter, and when your said min∣ced Fish is thus fryed, you must make a good and well-seasoned Omelet, which being also half fryed, pour your said Minced fish into it, and afterwards take both of them out of the sauce, and lay them dry.
Observe, that you must rowl up
this Omelet, and place it upon a plate, and cutting it open at the two ends, you must spread them abroad in the form of a Starre, after which grate some sugar upon it, and sprinkle it if you please with some Rose water.
MInce all kind of sweet Herbs, and the yolks of hard Egges together, season the whole with salt, you may also adde thereunto some half boyled Mouscherons, and some Currans, put these minced ingredients upon a plate, or in a Dish, and cover them over with a stabby or limber Omelet; and strow Sugar and Cinamon upon it if you please.
TAke young and tender Spara∣gus, break or cut them into small peeces, cause them to be half fryed in brown butter, after which pour into them some beaten Egges seasoned with salt, and thus make your Omelet.
Others do cause their Sparag as to bee perboyled in salt water, and having taken them out of their said liquor, being well drayned, they put them into the frying pan with some beaten Egges, After which your Omelet being made, and ready to bee served up, add a drop or two of Vinegar, or verjuice unto it.
Sometimes you may take M••••s∣cherons, well washed, and cut in peeces, and causing them to be stew∣ed betwixt two dishes over the fire, pressing out the water which is in
them, you may make use thereof to sprinkle your Omelet withall, and you may also grate Nutmeg over it.
As for example, beat four fresh eggs in five or six spoonfuls of milk, adde some salt unto them, and about the bigness of an egge, or a little more of grated white bread, or a silver spoonful of fine flower, wch you must most exactly dislolve together with the eggs, by beating them throughly, after which you must pour them into the butter to make your Omelet, which you must turn in your pan, and must not spare any butter in the frying of it; when your said Omelet is well fri∣ed, you may cut it into long and thick stices, like unto your Naples Bisket, or into any other shape you
please, adding thereunto some sugar, and a little rose-water.
In case you do not turn your said Omelet in the Pan, as it is over the fire, but leave it somewhat limber on the inward side, it will bee the better.
You may also cause your eggs to be fried in an indifferent Frying∣pan of Copper, which hath high borders, or in a little Tart-pan that so you may make your said Ome∣let in the shape of a Cake; and to make it the more excellent and pleasing, you may adde unto it in the beating of your eggs a spoonful or two of sugar powdered, beat all these well together, and pour them into the Frying or Tart-pan, in which you must have brown fried the bigness of a Hens egge, or a lit∣tle more of fresh butter; after which cause your eggs to bee gently fried over a light fire, and accor∣dingly as your said eggs begin to harden you may stirre them with a spoon, that so they stick not to the Tart-pan.
Observe, that you may dress these kinde of eggs without any milk, and when they are throughly hardned, give them a colour on the top with a hot shovel, and having in this manner disht your said Ome∣let, you may strew it with sugar, and sprinkle it with rose-water if you please.
Spread into a dish with the back of a silver spoon about the bigness of a good egge of fresh butter, beat six or seven eggs into it, and season them with salt beaten very small, after which pour some six spoon∣fuls of good Cream upon the whites of your eggs, and adde a little salt to them; after which cause these your said eggs to be fried, and at length give them a colour on the
top with a hot shovel; but have a care however not to render the yolks too hard.
Cause your fresh butter to bee very brown fried, brea Eggs in∣to a dish, and without dissolving or beating of them, pour them into your said butter, and season them with beaten salt, and when they are well fried dish them up, and sprinkle them with some vinegar, which you shall have dashed through the Fry∣ing pan; grate a little Nutmeg o∣ver your Omelet, and if you please you may pour a sauce called in French, A Robert, over these eggs, whereby such a kind of Omelet be∣gets the appellation of an Omelet, according to the fashion of Millan.
As for example, beat five or six eggs, adde some salt thereunto powdered, and about half a pint of good milk, which you must pour into your said eggs by degrees at se∣veral times, and well beat and dis∣solve your said eggs with a quantity of the said milk, and adde thereun∣to a spoonful of powdered sugar; pour all these ingredients into a good bigge dish, and set it over a pot full of boyling hot water, or o∣ver a Chafingdish, and put into the said dish about the bigness of a Hens egge of fresh butter melted, and when you have powred your eggs & milk into the said dish and butter, you must cover the dish with ano∣ther dish or bowl, and so let the
Eggs and milk boyl gently without stirring of them.
When they are sufficiently stew∣ed, you must give them a brown colour with a hot shovel as afore∣said, and the which will also hasten their being drest; and taking them off from the fire, you must grate Su∣gar upon them, unto which you may also adde some Rose-water, or Cinamon water, which you please.
Your Egges being thus well stew∣ed, must bee presently eaten, for that if you should keep them never so little, there would come a water upon them, especially if your milk be not very pure; But however you may hinder the said Egges, from produ∣cing any water at all, by dissolving a little flower into the milk, with the which you mix your said eggs.
And in case you rather choose, to stew them over a potfull of boyling water, they will bee farre more de∣licate than over a Chafingdish, will cast up lesse water, and besides, your said Dish will not runne the hazard
of melting; All the trouble you will have will bee to entertain and blow the fire under the said Pot of boyling water, till such time as your said Eggs be totally stewed.
And they will be yet farre more de∣licate and more pleasing, if instead of milk you do make them with Cream, and if you put but a very few whites of egges into them, but then you will need the more Cream.
Sometimes also in these your Eggs and milk, you may put some pars∣ley small shredded, which you must mix therewith in the beating of your Egges, and your said dish will bee farre the better, although you adde no Sugar thereunto, yet if you do, it will be so much the better.
So likewise may you compose this said dish of Egges, and milk, without the adding of any butter unto it.
Describing the several kinds of Mar∣malads, first the manner of make∣ing of Marmalade with dis∣solved Eggs in ver∣juyce without Butter.
AS for example, beat four eggs, and dissolve them well, adde some salt unto them, and four spoon∣fuls of verjuyce, put them together upon the fire, and stir them gently with a silver spoon untill the eggs are sufficiently hardned; after which take them off from the fire, and stir them again a while, that so they may bee throughly stifned or hard∣ned.
In the same manner you may dress eggs stirred with the juyce of a Lemmon, or Orange, but you must have a care not to put over much of either into your said eggs, chiefly of the juyce of Oranges, because the
quantity of it will oblige you to keep your said milk and eggs a great while over the fire, which will make them become bitter, and ill tasted.
Cause butter to bee melted in a dish, or in a Skillet, as for example, beat four eggs into verjuyce, and adde some salt unto them, pour them into melted butter, and stirre them until they incline towards be∣ing hard, after which grate a little Nutmeg over them, and letting them stand over the fire yet a while, you may garnish them with tosted sip∣pets, or fryed ones, which you please.
Put fresh butter, and good honey in a stone platter over the fire, and whilst the butter is a melting beat
one half dozen, or as many yolks of eggs as you think fitting therein, adde thereunto half a glass full of verjuyce, for half a dozen yolks of eggs, without the whites of them, which you must not put into them; season them well with salt, and beat them all together very well in the same manner as if you were to make an Omelet of the yolks of eggs, pour it into your melted butter, and stirre it constantly with a spoon, till it be ready to be taken off from the fire.
Cause verjuyce in the Grape to be fried with butter, after which take beaten eggs with some ver∣juyce, and season them with some salt, and pour them into your but∣ter and verjuyce, and stirre them o∣ver the fire until such time as that they bee well fryed, after which
grate a littl Nutmeg over them.
As for example, dissolve four eggs with a little verjuyce, and cause them to be fryed at the same time as you mingle them together, and when they are half fryed, adde unto them about two spoonfuls of the juyce or sauce of Muscherons, which have been well ordered, adde a lit∣tle salt thereunto, and so proceed to cause your said eggs to bee fryed for good and all.
As for example, beat four fresh eggs, and dissolve them with six spoonfuls of Gelly, or as much broth of flesh which hath been boyled without herbs, pour this broth into it by spoonfuls, to which you may adde a little verjuyce, and as much salt as you think fitting; cause all these to be stewed over an indifferent hot
fire until they bee pretty well mix∣ed and cimented, after which you must take the dish off from the fire, and you may grate into it some Nutmeg, or some crusts of white bread.
Beat four eggs in a dish, with two spoonfuls of Cream, season them with salt, to which you may also adde a few slices of preserved Lem∣mon peels small grated, pour this mixture into another dish, in which you shall have caused some butter to be melted, let them stew easily, and be sure to stirre them until they bee sufficiently well incorporated and knit together.
Cause the bignesse of an egg of butter, to bee melted in a dish, and
in another dish beat three Eggs, and dissolve them in the same manner as if it were to make an Omelet, add thereunto about the bignesse of an hazel Nut of Cheese small shredded, or scraped, and when your said but∣ter is melted, pour your Eggs into it, and cause them to bee fryed over an indifferent fire, and stirre them continually with a spoon, until they bee pretty well hardned, after which taking them off from the fire, keep them covered with a Trencher, lest they do take cold, and so serve them up to the table immediatly.
In case your Cheese bee not very salt, you may adde as much salt thereunto, as you shall judge to bee requisire, at the same time of the beating of your Eggs.
Take white succory, and cut or shred it very small, but let it be very young and tender, put it be∣twixt
two dishes, or in a Tart-pan, and set it over an indifferent fire, that all its water may bee drained, which you must pour out, and af∣terwards fry it in butter, and salt, and when it is well boyled, you must pour into it dissolved Eggs, in the same manner as if you were to make an Omelet; As for example, five or six eggs will make a pretty good dish, and the more eggs you put to it, the better it will bee, and in case you put only the yolks of the eggs into it, as then you will need the more; Mix and dissolve all these to∣gether, and grate some Nutmeg o∣ver them, and when the whole is pretty well fryed, and that your said eggs beginne to be knitted and hard∣ned, you shall not need to stir them any more, and it will bee sufficient if you leave them a little while lon∣ger upon the fire, only to perfect their being throughly fried.
Peel your Cowcumbers and cause them to bee perboyied in water, after which lay them out to bee drayned, and after that cut them into slender slices, and put three or four of them into a frying pan, wherein about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter hath been fryed half brown, season them with salt beaten small, and with pepper, and fry them all toge∣ther, and when they are well fryed, pour the yolks of two or three bea∣ten Eggs into it, dissolved with a little verjuice, stir all your said mix∣ture into your pan, and when your Eggs shall bee sufficiently fryed, dish it up all together, and grate some Nutmeg upon it, if you please.
As for example, beat four egges in the same manner as you would make an Omelet, season them with falt, and with a little pepper and spice, adde thereunto about the bignesse of an Egg of grated white bread, or as much fine flower, mix all these ingredients very well, and adde thereunto as many spoonfulls of green sauce as there are Egges, after which pour this mixture into a dish, in which you shall have melted about the bignesse of an egg of fresh butter, very hot and brown fryed, cause these your said eggs to fry gently, and stirre them with a spoon untill they be sufficiently fryed to your liking.
Dissolve both the white and yolks of six eggs together, with about six spoonfuls of Rose-water, or Fountain-water, add some salt, and a grated Macaroon unto it, and the bignesse of a Wal-nut of grated white-bread, or instead thereof two Macaroons will suffice, and about the half of a side of preserved Lem∣mon peel, either shredded into smal flices or grated; Pour all this mix∣ture into a dish, in which there hath been about the bignesse of an Egge of fresh butter melted, Let these Eggs bee fryed therein, and turn them now and then with a spoon, in the same manner as you do your other stirred eggs.
When this your said Marmalad shall bee sufficiently fryed, though you must not let it become too dry, take it off from the fire; and you may add unto the said Eggs a spoon∣full
or two of Hipocras, or of Malm∣sy, or of Sack, which you must put in∣to them when they are half boyled, after which you must very well stirre them with a silver spoon, and let them fry easily.
These Eggs are more pleasing be∣ing eaten cold than hot, and when they are fryed, you may put them into a Dough Coffin of very fine paste, and so make a handsome Tart of them.
Take a Bisket or two, which are slender ones, separate the top from the bottome, and cause them to bee toasted by the fire, cause also, as for example, four eggs to bee boy∣led hard, and take out their yolks, dissolve them in a Porenger with a spoon, adde thereunto three other yolks of raw Egges, two Maca∣roons reduced to powder, or about the bignesse of a good egg or a little
more, of peeled Almonds, which have bin exactly pounded with some Rose-water; and two spoonfuls of Sugar, salt, at your own discretion, and having mixed all these things together you may add thereunto some preserved Lemmon peels small shredded.
After which, taste your said Mixture, and in case you deem it to bee well seasoned, put it upon a small fire, and dissolve it with a silver spoon; And when it is very hot add thereunto some morcels of toasted Biskers, about the bignesse of half a Crown or thereabouts, stick them somewhat deep into your said Mar∣malad, that they bee quite covered therewith, but however in such a manner, as that they may easily be gotted out with a Fork, and so pro∣ceed to finish your Almond stirred eggs.
Season Mouscherons very well, and cause them to bee boyled, to which you may adde some Sparagus cut into morcels, and when your said Mouscherons are ready to bee served up, break three or four eggs into them, and mingle them toge∣ther, and cause them to bee fried with the rest of your ingredients, un∣til they be sufficiently knitted or u∣nited together.
Cause grated white bread to bee steeped in any broth whatsoever, after which you must pound it well in a marble Morter, and so put it into a dish, break twelve eggs or more into it, adde thereunto a lit∣tle salt, and five or six spoonfuls of
broath, which you must at several times, and by degrees, pour into your said eggs whilst you are a dis∣solving of them, after which, put a little preserved Lemmon peels in∣to it, either small shredded or cut into smal slices, pour all this mixture into a dish, in which you shall have caused some fresh butter to bee fry∣ed half brown, cause these eggs to be gently fryed, and stirre them until they are well hardned and knit∣ted together, and instead of Meat broath, you may make use of milk, in the composing of these your said Polish stirred eggs.
Take for example, ten yolks of fresh eggs, put them into a dish, with as many spoonfuls of jelly, or of Meat pottage, boyled without herbs, and which hath had the fat skimmed of, put the said broath in∣to
your eggs, by degrees, and by spoonfuls, that so you may the bet∣ter dissolve the yolks of your eggs, into your said Meat broath, unto which add half a quarter of a pound or a whole quarter of a pound of powder sugar, and an ounce of preserved Lemmon peel, either grated or cut into small slices, or very little bits; let all these in∣gredients steep together for the space of one half hour, after you shall have added some salt to it, in case you suppose the broath bee not salt enough of it self.
Finally, you must put four spoon∣fuls of Rose-water into another Por∣ringer, with half an ounce of sugar, and let them boyl but about half a dozen boylings up only, and after that pour into it your prepared and seasoned eggs as aforesaid; cover your said dish, and cause them to stew gently as you did your eggs and milk, or if you please you may tame them with a silver spoon in the same manner as you did your
egges and verjuyce.
And when they are well mingled and joyned, and begin to be hardned, take your dish off from the fire, and when the said eggs are become somwhat cold, you must put about an ounce of powder sugar upon them, and sometimes a little Musk is added unto them, being dissolved in Rose-water, or in Cinamon water.
You may keep these eggs till they be half cold before you eat them if you please; and they are likewise very good though they are quite cold; you may eat them either ways at your own pleasure.
Cause five or six eggs to bee well beaten, and pour them into the gra∣vie or juyce of a Legge of Mutton,
or of any other roasted meat, stirre them well together over the fire, and adde some salt unto them.
You may also adde some ver∣juyce, or the juyce of an Orange to your said eggs, and gravie, as also the juyce of a Lemmon.
So likewise may you put therein some Muscherons well boyled and seasoned to the life.
Observe also, that as soon as your said eggs are well mixed, and incor∣porated with your said gravie, and the other ingredients; you must take them off from the fire, and keeping them covered a while, you may af∣terwards grate some Nutmeg over them.
Observe also, that to render them the more pleasing and toothsome, you may strew some powdered Ambergrease, and fine loaf sugar powdered into them, before you do serve them up to the table.
In this self-same manner you may dress the several sorts of stirred eggs here above mentioned, especi∣ally
these last, with all kind of sau∣ces you can imagine, or do affect, as with Sparagus, with Hartichokes, with Muscherons, with Cream, Milk, with green-Sauce, with the broth of Hens, or of Fish, or any other li∣quor you fancy your self, &c.