The perfect cook: being the most exact directions for the making all kinds of pastes, with the perfect way teaching how to raise, season, and make all sorts of pies, pasties, tarts, and florentines, &c. now practised by the most famous and expert cooks, both French and English. As also the perfect English cook, or right method of the whole art of cookery, with the true ordering of French, Spanish, and Italian kickshaws, with alamode varieties for persons of honour. To which is added, the way of dressing all manner of flesh, fowl, and fish, and making admirable sauces, after the most refined way of French and English. The like never extant; with fifty five ways of dressing of eggs. / By Mounsieur Marnettè.

CHAP. CXXX.

Describing the several kinds of Mar∣malads, first the manner of make∣ing of Marmalade with dis∣solved Eggs in ver∣juyce without Butter.

AS for example, beat four eggs, and dissolve them well, adde some salt unto them, and four spoon∣fuls of verjuyce, put them together upon the fire, and stir them gently with a silver spoon untill the eggs are sufficiently hardned; after which take them off from the fire, and stir them again a while, that so they may bee throughly stifned or hard∣ned.

In the same manner you may dress eggs stirred with the juyce of a Lemmon, or Orange, but you must have a care not to put over much of either into your said eggs, chiefly of the juyce of Oranges, because the

quantity of it will oblige you to keep your said milk and eggs a great while over the fire, which will make them become bitter, and ill tasted.

The Second manner, being Eggs stirred both with Verjuyce, and Butter.

Cause butter to bee melted in a dish, or in a Skillet, as for example, beat four eggs into verjuyce, and adde some salt unto them, pour them into melted butter, and stirre them until they incline towards be∣ing hard, after which grate a little Nutmeg over them, and letting them stand over the fire yet a while, you may garnish them with tosted sip∣pets, or fryed ones, which you please.

Or otherwise.

Put fresh butter, and good honey in a stone platter over the fire, and whilst the butter is a melting beat

one half dozen, or as many yolks of eggs as you think fitting therein, adde thereunto half a glass full of verjuyce, for half a dozen yolks of eggs, without the whites of them, which you must not put into them; season them well with salt, and beat them all together very well in the same manner as if you were to make an Omelet of the yolks of eggs, pour it into your melted butter, and stirre it constantly with a spoon, till it be ready to be taken off from the fire.

The Third manner, being Eggs stir∣red with Verjuyce in the Grape.

Cause verjuyce in the Grape to be fried with butter, after which take beaten eggs with some ver∣juyce, and season them with some salt, and pour them into your but∣ter and verjuyce, and stirre them o∣ver the fire until such time as that they bee well fryed, after which

grate a littl Nutmeg over them.

Another manner.

As for example, dissolve four eggs with a little verjuyce, and cause them to be fryed at the same time as you mingle them together, and when they are half fryed, adde unto them about two spoonfuls of the juyce or sauce of Muscherons, which have been well ordered, adde a lit∣tle salt thereunto, and so proceed to cause your said eggs to bee fryed for good and all.

The Fourth manner, being Eggs stirred with meat broth.

As for example, beat four fresh eggs, and dissolve them with six spoonfuls of Gelly, or as much broth of flesh which hath been boyled without herbs, pour this broth into it by spoonfuls, to which you may adde a little verjuyce, and as much salt as you think fitting; cause all these to be stewed over an indifferent hot

fire until they bee pretty well mix∣ed and cimented, after which you must take the dish off from the fire, and you may grate into it some Nutmeg, or some crusts of white bread.

The Fifth manner, being Eggs stirred with Cream.

Beat four eggs in a dish, with two spoonfuls of Cream, season them with salt, to which you may also adde a few slices of preserved Lem∣mon peels small grated, pour this mixture into another dish, in which you shall have caused some butter to be melted, let them stew easily, and be sure to stirre them until they bee sufficiently well incorporated and knit together.

The sixth manner, being Egges stirred with Cheese.

Cause the bignesse of an egg of butter, to bee melted in a dish, and

in another dish beat three Eggs, and dissolve them in the same manner as if it were to make an Omelet, add thereunto about the bignesse of an hazel Nut of Cheese small shredded, or scraped, and when your said but∣ter is melted, pour your Eggs into it, and cause them to bee fryed over an indifferent fire, and stirre them continually with a spoon, until they bee pretty well hardned, after which taking them off from the fire, keep them covered with a Trencher, lest they do take cold, and so serve them up to the table immediatly.

In case your Cheese bee not very salt, you may adde as much salt thereunto, as you shall judge to bee requisire, at the same time of the beating of your Eggs.

The eight manner, being stirred Eggs with succory.

Take white succory, and cut or shred it very small, but let it be very young and tender, put it be∣twixt

two dishes, or in a Tart-pan, and set it over an indifferent fire, that all its water may bee drained, which you must pour out, and af∣terwards fry it in butter, and salt, and when it is well boyled, you must pour into it dissolved Eggs, in the same manner as if you were to make an Omelet; As for example, five or six eggs will make a pretty good dish, and the more eggs you put to it, the better it will bee, and in case you put only the yolks of the eggs into it, as then you will need the more; Mix and dissolve all these to∣gether, and grate some Nutmeg o∣ver them, and when the whole is pretty well fryed, and that your said eggs beginne to be knitted and hard∣ned, you shall not need to stir them any more, and it will bee sufficient if you leave them a little while lon∣ger upon the fire, only to perfect their being throughly fried.

The Eighth manner, being Eggs stir∣red with Cowcumbers.

Peel your Cowcumbers and cause them to bee perboyied in water, after which lay them out to bee drayned, and after that cut them into slender slices, and put three or four of them into a frying pan, wherein about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter hath been fryed half brown, season them with salt beaten small, and with pepper, and fry them all toge∣ther, and when they are well fryed, pour the yolks of two or three bea∣ten Eggs into it, dissolved with a little verjuice, stir all your said mix∣ture into your pan, and when your Eggs shall bee sufficiently fryed, dish it up all together, and grate some Nutmeg upon it, if you please.

The Ninth manner, being stirred Eggs with green sauce.

As for example, beat four egges in the same manner as you would make an Omelet, season them with falt, and with a little pepper and spice, adde thereunto about the bignesse of an Egg of grated white bread, or as much fine flower, mix all these ingredients very well, and adde thereunto as many spoonfulls of green sauce as there are Egges, after which pour this mixture into a dish, in which you shall have melted about the bignesse of an egg of fresh butter, very hot and brown fryed, cause these your said eggs to fry gently, and stirre them with a spoon untill they be sufficiently fryed to your liking.

The Tenth manner, being another kind of Marmalade made of stirred Eggs.

Dissolve both the white and yolks of six eggs together, with about six spoonfuls of Rose-water, or Fountain-water, add some salt, and a grated Macaroon unto it, and the bignesse of a Wal-nut of grated white-bread, or instead thereof two Macaroons will suffice, and about the half of a side of preserved Lem∣mon peel, either shredded into smal flices or grated; Pour all this mix∣ture into a dish, in which there hath been about the bignesse of an Egge of fresh butter melted, Let these Eggs bee fryed therein, and turn them now and then with a spoon, in the same manner as you do your other stirred eggs.

When this your said Marmalad shall bee sufficiently fryed, though you must not let it become too dry, take it off from the fire; and you may add unto the said Eggs a spoon∣full

or two of Hipocras, or of Malm∣sy, or of Sack, which you must put in∣to them when they are half boyled, after which you must very well stirre them with a silver spoon, and let them fry easily.

These Eggs are more pleasing be∣ing eaten cold than hot, and when they are fryed, you may put them into a Dough Coffin of very fine paste, and so make a handsome Tart of them.

The Eleventh manner, being Egges stirred with Almonds.

Take a Bisket or two, which are slender ones, separate the top from the bottome, and cause them to bee toasted by the fire, cause also, as for example, four eggs to bee boy∣led hard, and take out their yolks, dissolve them in a Porenger with a spoon, adde thereunto three other yolks of raw Egges, two Maca∣roons reduced to powder, or about the bignesse of a good egg or a little

more, of peeled Almonds, which have bin exactly pounded with some Rose-water; and two spoonfuls of Sugar, salt, at your own discretion, and having mixed all these things together you may add thereunto some preserved Lemmon peels small shredded.

After which, taste your said Mixture, and in case you deem it to bee well seasoned, put it upon a small fire, and dissolve it with a silver spoon; And when it is very hot add thereunto some morcels of toasted Biskers, about the bignesse of half a Crown or thereabouts, stick them somewhat deep into your said Mar∣malad, that they bee quite covered therewith, but however in such a manner, as that they may easily be gotted out with a Fork, and so pro∣ceed to finish your Almond stirred eggs.

The Twelfth manner, being yet ano∣ther kind of stirred Eggs.

Season Mouscherons very well, and cause them to bee boyled, to which you may adde some Sparagus cut into morcels, and when your said Mouscherons are ready to bee served up, break three or four eggs into them, and mingle them toge∣ther, and cause them to bee fried with the rest of your ingredients, un∣til they be sufficiently knitted or u∣nited together.

The Thirteenth manner, being Egges stirred according to the Po∣lonian Fashion.

Cause grated white bread to bee steeped in any broth whatsoever, after which you must pound it well in a marble Morter, and so put it into a dish, break twelve eggs or more into it, adde thereunto a lit∣tle salt, and five or six spoonfuls of

broath, which you must at several times, and by degrees, pour into your said eggs whilst you are a dis∣solving of them, after which, put a little preserved Lemmon peels in∣to it, either small shredded or cut into smal slices, pour all this mixture into a dish, in which you shall have caused some fresh butter to bee fry∣ed half brown, cause these eggs to be gently fryed, and stirre them until they are well hardned and knit∣ted together, and instead of Meat broath, you may make use of milk, in the composing of these your said Polish stirred eggs.

The Fourteenth manner, being exqui∣site, and Courtly, but∣tered Egges.

Take for example, ten yolks of fresh eggs, put them into a dish, with as many spoonfuls of jelly, or of Meat pottage, boyled without herbs, and which hath had the fat skimmed of, put the said broath in∣to

your eggs, by degrees, and by spoonfuls, that so you may the bet∣ter dissolve the yolks of your eggs, into your said Meat broath, unto which add half a quarter of a pound or a whole quarter of a pound of powder sugar, and an ounce of preserved Lemmon peel, either grated or cut into small slices, or very little bits; let all these in∣gredients steep together for the space of one half hour, after you shall have added some salt to it, in case you suppose the broath bee not salt enough of it self.

Finally, you must put four spoon∣fuls of Rose-water into another Por∣ringer, with half an ounce of sugar, and let them boyl but about half a dozen boylings up only, and after that pour into it your prepared and seasoned eggs as aforesaid; cover your said dish, and cause them to stew gently as you did your eggs and milk, or if you please you may tame them with a silver spoon in the same manner as you did your

egges and verjuyce.

And when they are well mingled and joyned, and begin to be hardned, take your dish off from the fire, and when the said eggs are become somwhat cold, you must put about an ounce of powder sugar upon them, and sometimes a little Musk is added unto them, being dissolved in Rose-water, or in Cinamon water.

You may keep these eggs till they be half cold before you eat them if you please; and they are likewise very good though they are quite cold; you may eat them either ways at your own pleasure.

The Fifteenth and last manner of stirring of Eggs, called in French ala Huge∣notte, or the Pro∣testants man∣ner.

Cause five or six eggs to bee well beaten, and pour them into the gra∣vie or juyce of a Legge of Mutton,

or of any other roasted meat, stirre them well together over the fire, and adde some salt unto them.

You may also adde some ver∣juyce, or the juyce of an Orange to your said eggs, and gravie, as also the juyce of a Lemmon.

So likewise may you put therein some Muscherons well boyled and seasoned to the life.

Observe also, that as soon as your said eggs are well mixed, and incor∣porated with your said gravie, and the other ingredients; you must take them off from the fire, and keeping them covered a while, you may af∣terwards grate some Nutmeg over them.

Observe also, that to render them the more pleasing and toothsome, you may strew some powdered Ambergrease, and fine loaf sugar powdered into them, before you do serve them up to the table.

In this self-same manner you may dress the several sorts of stirred eggs here above mentioned, especi∣ally

these last, with all kind of sau∣ces you can imagine, or do affect, as with Sparagus, with Hartichokes, with Muscherons, with Cream, Milk, with green-Sauce, with the broth of Hens, or of Fish, or any other li∣quor you fancy your self, &c.