The French cook.: Prescribing the way of making ready of all sorts of meats, fish and flesh, with the proper sauces, either to procure appetite, or to advance the power of digestion. Also the preparation of all herbs and fruits, so as their naturall crudities are by art opposed; with the whole skil of pastry-work. Together with a treatise of conserves, both dry and liquid, a la mode de France. With an alphabeticall table explaining the hard words, and other usefull tables. / Written in French by Monsieur De La Varenne, clerk of the kitchin to the Lord Marquesse of Uxelles, and now Englished by I.D.G.

A Method how to make ready and to serve up the Pastry works which are made mention of in the foregoing Table.

1. Venison pastie.

IF the flesh is hard, beat it, take off the up∣per skinnes, and lard it with great lard, seasoned with salt, peper, vinegar and bea∣ten cloves. If it is for to keep, make up your paste with Rye meal without butter, salt and peper; let your pasty bake the space of three houres and a half; after it is baked, stop up with paste the hole which you have left for to give vent, and serve in slices.

2. Pasty of a joint of mutton.

After it is well mortifyed, beat it well take off the skinne, take out the bones, and if you

will, lard it with great lard, and season it with salt, peper, and a little vinegar; you may let it lye in the sauce three or four daies, well covered, untill you put it into paste; which you shall doe then in paste fine or course; season it well with salt, peper, beaten cloves, nutmegge, and a bay l••af, and also a clove of garlick crushed if you will: After it is closed up, and endored with the yolk of an egge, let it bake the space of three houres and a half, and doe not forget to give it vent on the top, a little while after that you have put it in the oven.

3. Pie after the English way.

Take a young Hare, or a Hare, mince it well with beef or mutton suet, or even with the brawn of Capon, mixe well all together, and season, put in it if you will, some capers, and some sugar. Make your paste thus; after it is flowred, spread it, and fould it up into three or four doubles like a napkin, putting some fresh butter upon every bed of paste, so that for one pound of paste there be half a pound of butter proportionably; after it is thus made ready, let it rest a little while, and then make your pie up, which you shall gar∣nish at the outside with buttered paper. Bake it well, endore it with the yolk of an egge, and serve.

The Wildboare pasty is made the same way as that of the joint of Mutton.

4. Pie of Capon.

After it is well dressed, lard it with meane lard, and put it into fine paste, and make up your pie. If you will serve it up warme, it must not be so much seasoned, as for to serve it cold.

To serve it warme therefore, make it up and garnish it with what you have, you may also farce it. You must bake it two houres and a half, and if the sauce be wanting, make a white sauce for it, or put into it any juice, and serve it warme and uncovered.

5. Pie of Turkie.

After it is well dressed, beat it and trusse it up, lard it with great lard, and season it, then put it into fine or brown past fed with butter or lard, for this flesh is very drie when it is baked; season it as a venison pastie, bake it proportionably to it's hardness or bigness, and serve it warme or cold.

6. Another way.

Dresse your turkie, take off the skin and the brisket, then season it, and farce it with young pigeons, beef palats, mushrums, trou∣fles, bottoms of hartichocks, combes, ram's-stones, and sweet breads. This farce it fit, in case you take out the brisket onely.

If you take off the whole skin; take the flesh of your turkie, mince it very small with beef suet, season it with all what you have, and with yolks of eggs, fill up the skin with it, sow it up againe, and put it into fine paste,

garnish your pie with small beatilles, mush∣rums, and all the remnant of your farce. Bake it, and serve it warme with what sauce you will.

7. Pie of gaudiveau.

Dresse up your paste into an ovall, garnish it with your gaudiveau, in the midst of which you shall put all kind of garnish, as mush∣rums, livers of fat capons, cardes, yolks of hard eggs, sweet breads, and shall season all; binde it with paste at the top, and when it is baked, serve with a sauce of verjuice, yolks of eggs and nutmeg.

8. Pie of Partridge.

After they are dressed, lard them with meane lard, and season them, then put them into a fine paste, and make up your pie well fed with lard or butter, bake it for the space of three houres, and serve it warme.

9. Pastie of Gammon of bacon.

Steep it well, and after it is unsalted en∣ough, boile it a little and take off the skin about it, then put it into brown paste, as ve∣nison, and season it with peper, clove, and parsley; you may also lard it as you doe the venison. Bake it according to it's thicknesse; if it is big, five houres, if less, less, and so ac∣cording as it is bigger or lesser; after it is cold, serve it in slices.

10. Pie of a breast of Veale.

After it is very white, you may farce it with what you will; you may also put it into very

fine paste very well seasoned, and garnished, or if you will, cut it into small peeces, make up your pie well, bake it, and serve it with a white sauce, made up with yolks of eggs al∣layed with verjuice.

11. Pie of Assiette.

Take the flesh of veale, and beef or mut∣ton suet, make a kind of gaudiveaux, then dress up your paste very neatly half a foot high, and fill it with one bed of flesh, and over it another of mushrums another of cardes or of cardeaux, or young pigeons, palats of beef, stones, and yolks of eggs, so that the up∣per bed be of gaudiveaux, cover it and season it, then serve.

12. Pies the Cardinall's way.

Make up your pies very high and very nar∣row, fill them up with gaudiveaux, and cover them so that the lid be also very high; then serve them; specially for a garnish to a peece of beef, or on a plate.

13. Pie after the Marotte.

Take Rie meale, which you shall salt, make your paste with it, and make it up like a pie; then take one hare or two, or two joints of mutton, with a little beef suet, which you shall mince together very small and season it, then make up your pie, on the top of which you shall leave a vent, after three houre's baking, take it out, and fill it with good broath, put it in the oven againe, and when it is quite baked serve it.

14. Pie of young Rabbits.

After they are dressed, lard them with great lard, and make your paste like that of venison; if you serve it warme, make it a little sweeter, and serve.

15. Pie of pullets.

Dresse and flowre them, if you will; garnish and season them, and put them into very fine paste, serve warme with a white sauce of yolks of eggs allayed.

If your pullets are big, you may thicke them with meane lard, and season them, gar∣nish and bake them alike.

16. Pie of larks.

Dresse them, draw them, and flat them, then passe them in the pan with mushrums, troufles, beatills, and stones, all well season'd, then put them into fine paste, bake them the space of two houres, and a halfe, let the sauce be well allayed and fed; you may put some sugar in it hypocrast-like, and so serve it cold; if with ragoust, serve it warme.

17. Pie of Veale.

Take the fillet, and dresse it like the wild boare, that is, well larded and seasoned, put it into fine or brown paste, as you will, serve it in slices, warme or cold.

Another way.

Mince such flesh of veale as you will with beef suet, and season it; make up your paste, and make the bottome of your pie, or the whole, with this meat thus minced and sea∣soned,

which moreover you shall garnish with mushrums, bottoms of hartichocks, stones, sweet breads, and hard yolks of eggs; after which you shall cover and bake it; after it is baked, serve it uncovered with a sauce of yolks of eggs allayed with verjuice of grapes.

18. Fie of Quailes.

It is made for to eat cold like that of par∣tridges, and for to eat warme, like that of larks, make it up with fine paste, and serve it warme with ragoust.

19. Pie of Woodcocks.

Dresse your Woodcocks, draw them, lard them with meane lard, and season them like the partridge pie, for to be eaten warme or cold; if you serve it warme, garnish it with what you have, and season it as you think fit∣ting; bake it the space of two houres and a half, and serve it warme or cold.

20. Pie of thrushes.

Dresse your thrushes, draw them, and put them into paste, season and bake them as the larks, for to be eaten warme, or cold.

31. Pie of Duck

After it is dressed, lard it with great lard, and season it well, put it into fine or brown paste for to keep it; bake it for the space of three houres; serve and garnish it for to eat it warme.

The pie of Macreuse with lard is made the self same way.

23. Pie of Lambe.

Take the foure quarters, and mince them very small, whiten them in fresh water, then put them in a fine paste and well made up, with a little parsley and fine hearbs minced; after it is well baked, and well seasoned, serve it with a white sauce.

Another way.

You may take your lambe whole, or in quarters, without cutting it, lard it with great lard, and put it into paste seasoned with minced parsley, salt, peper, beaten cloves, and garnished with mushrums, morilles, and capers; and after it is baked, serve it with a white sauce of yolks of eggs allayed with verjuice.

24. Pie of mutton's tongues.

Wash them with lukewarme water, and cleanse them, then put them into paste; take mushrums, small pallats of beef cut, beatilles, a little parsley, and chibols; passe all in the panne, powre on it some yolks of eggs, bot∣toms of hartichocks, beaten lard, or fresh butter, and put them into your pie, which you shall bake for the space of two houres, and shall serve with a sauce of yolks of eggs allayed with verjuice.

25. Pie of Kid warme.

Dresse it, and take off the head, lard it with meane lard, and season it, put it into fine paste dressed up, or not, garnish it with bea∣tilles, mushrums, morilles, troufles, mousserons,

and serve. If you will serve it cold, let it's sea∣soning be stronger.

Another way.

If you have two kids, or rocbucks, taken out of the body of the wild goate, or of the hinde, lard them, and season them, and put to them abundance of sugar, which will make both your meat and sauce full of sugar.

If your kids are small, put them into dres∣sed paste, and sever them, putting the one into sugar, and the other in ragoust, serve warme.

26. Goose pie.

After it is dressed, lard it with great lard, and put it into paste seasoned as the venison pastic; serve it alike, warme, or in slices.

27. Pie of knuckles of shoulders.

Dresse the bones of your knuckles, whiten them, break them and lard them with great lard, or lard stamped, then put them into fine past; garnish and season your pie with all what you have, bake it for the space of two houres and a halfe, when it is baked, serve with what sauce you will.

24. Tourte of young pigeons.

Make a fine paste, and let it reste, then take your young pigeons, cleanse them, and whi∣ten them. If they are too big, cut them, and take gaudiveaux, sparagus, mushrums, bot∣tomes of hartichocks, beef marrow, yolks of eggs, cardes, pallats of beef, troufles, verjuice of grapes, or goos-berries; garnish your

tourte with what you have, not forgetting the seasoning, then serve.

Another way.

After your young pigeons are well dressed and whitened, make a sheet of fine paste or puft paste, put in the bottome some gaudi∣veaux, and the young pigeons at the top; if they are small, whole; if big, cut them into halfes; garnish your tourte with combs, palets, mushrums, troufles, cardes, morilles, mousse∣rons, yolks of eggs, sweet breads, botomes of hartichocks, and minced parsley, all well seasoned with salt, peper, clove, and nutmeg; Cover up your tourte, and bake it the space of two houres and a half; After it is baked serve it uncovered with a sauce of yolks of eggs, al∣layed with verjuice of grapes,

29. Tourte of lard.

Take lard, slice it, and melt it between two dishes, season it as the tourte of marrow next following; when it is ready, serve it.

30. Tourte of marrow.

Take marrow, melt it, when it is melted, straine it, and put some sugar to it, yolks of eggs, pistaches, or almonds stamped; then make a very thinne sheet of fine paste, on which you shall put your implements, binde it, if you will; bake it, and serve it sugred.

31. Tourte of veale.

Take a peece of veale, whiten it, and mince it with twice as much of beef suet; af∣ter it is wel seasoned make a sheet of your fine

paste, put your meat on it, in the midst of which you shall put what you have, as bea∣tilles, &c. Sugar if you will; then when it is baked, serve.

Another way.

Garnish a sheet of fine paste or puft paste, and fill it half with your minced meat, put over it mushrums, stones, combes, bottomes of hartichocks, cardes, yolks of eggs, and all well seasoned, fill up your tourte with the same meat, cover it, and endore it with a raw egg allayed; bake it the space of one houre and a half, and serve it uncovered with a sauce.

32. Tourte of Beatilles.

Whiten your beatilles, put them into a sheet of paste seasoned and garnished as the tourte of young pigeons; bake it also alike, and serve it with a white sauce, or juice, or some ragoust of costes; you may put to it some pistaches peeled, and minced.

The tourte of sparrowes is served like that of young pigeons with a white sauce.

34. Tourte of larks.

You may make it as that of the young pi∣geons; But here is yet another way. Dresse them, draw them, flat them, and passe them in the panne with lard, parsley, and mush∣rums, then put them into your paste, and sea∣son them with yolks of eggs, capers and all what you have. Cover up your tourte, and bake it two houres. After it is baked, serve with a good sauce, or some juice.

35. Tourte of sweet breads.

You may put them into fine or puft paste, sticked and rosted, well seasoned and gar∣nished, or els frie them with mushrums, combes, troufles, morilles, yolk of eggs, bot∣toms of hartichocks, or some broken spara∣goes, and thus make up your tourte, which you shall serve with an allaying of mushrums upon it.

36. Tourte of brawne of Capon.

Take some quantitie of brawnes of capon, mince them very small, and allay them with two yolks of eggs, fresh butter, a little salt, pistaches, much sugar; a little juice, or good broath; make up your tourte with fine or puft paste, sugar it well, and if you will, you may adde to it besides some pignons and corants.

Advise.

Your pasties for keeping, or to carrie far off, may be made with Rie meale.

They that are to be eaten readily, make them with a paste more then half fine.

The English pie is made with puft paste.

The tourte of Franchipanne is made of paste allayed with whites of eggs.

All kinds of tourtes are made with fine or puft paste.

If you doe not find here all sorts of divers pastrie worke, doe not wonder at it, for the

intention is not to make a whole book of them, but onely to speak of them by the by, for to give some instruction of what is most necessary, and what is served up most ordi∣narily, for to intermingle and diversifie the Courses.