A display of heraldrie

SECT. I. CHAP. IV.

HItherto of Colours and Metals: Now of Furs, according to the series and course of our distribution before delivered, pag. 15.

* 1.1Furres (used in Armes) are taken for the Skins of certain beasts, stripped from the bodies, and artificially trimmed, for the furring, dou∣bling, or lining of Robes and Garments, serving as well for state and mag∣nificence, as for wholesome and necessary use. And these thus trimmed and imployed, are called in Latine pellicei, à pellendo, of driving away, (quite contrary in sense,* 1.2 though like in sound, to pellices à pellicendo, for drawing all to them) because they doe repell and resist the extremities of cold, and preserve the bodies that are covered with them, in good tem∣perature.

* 1.3These are used as well in doublings of the Mantles pertaining to Coat-Armours, as in the Coat-Armours themselves.

Furres do consist either of

• One colour alone, or
• More colours than one.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

That Furre that consisteth of one colour alone,* 1.4 is White, which in doubling is taken for the Lituits skin, before spoken of, pag. 17. An example whereof we have in this Escocheon. Some perhaps will expect that in the handling of these Furres, I should pursue the order of Gerard Leigh, who giveth the preheminence of place unto Ermyne, for the dignity and riches there∣of: but that form suteth neither with the Method that I have prefixed to my self; nor yet with the or∣der of Nature, which ever preferreth Simples before Compounds, because of their priority in time: for as Aristotle saith,* 1.5 Priora sunt compositis incomposita: which order, as it is of all other the most rea∣sonable, certain, and infallible; so doe I endeavour by all means to con∣form my self in these my poor labours thereunto: Natura enim regitur ab intelligentia non errante. Note that this,* 1.6 and all other the examples follow∣ing throughout this Chapter (as they are here placed) must be understood to be doublings or linings of Robes, or Mantles of State, or other Garments, wherein (according to Leigh) they all have one generall name, and are cal∣led Doublings: but in Escoch••ons they are called by nine proper and severall names. What those Mantles are, shall be shewed hereafter when I shall come to the handling of the second Member of Division before made.* 1.7 In the blazoning of Armes, this Colour is evermore termed Argent, unlesse it be in the description of the Armes of one that is Reus Laesae Majestatis: but being a doubling, it is no offence (saith Christine de Pice) to call it White,* 1.8 because therein it is to be understood onely as a Furre or Skin.

Furres consisting of more than one Colour, are either of

• Two Colours, or
• More than two.

Such Furres as are compounded of two Colours only, are sor∣ted either

• with Black, and are ei∣ther
  • Black mixt with White, as or
    • Ermyne, and
    • ...Ermynes.
  • Black mixt with Yellow, as
    • Emynois, and
    • ...Pean.
• or without Black: such are, accord∣ing to Leigh,
  • Verrey,scz. A. and B.
  • and Verrey, Or, and Vert,

Knowledge is no way better or more readily attained than by demon∣stration: Scire enim est per demonstrationem intelligere,* 1.9 saith Aristotle. I will therefore give you particular example of their severall Bearings.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

Ermyne is a Furre consisting of White distinguished with black spots. You must blazon this by the name of Ermyne, and not Argent powdred with Sable. This is the skin of a little beast, less than a Squirrill (saith Leigh) that hath his being in the Woods of the Land of Armeniae, whereof he taketh his name. The taile thereof is of a thumbs length, which is of co∣lour brown, The Egyptians did propose this little Beast for an Hieroglyphick of Chastity, Farnes. Lib. 2. fo. 15. So greatly is this little Beast affected unto

cleannesse, as that she had rather expose her self to the hazard of being killed or taken by the Hunters, then she would pollute her Coat with the filth of the bird-lime laid before the entrance of the cave to take her at her going in. Leigh in the former part of his Accidence, fol. 132. seemeth therein to contradict himself, in that he affirmeth Ermyne to be no Colour, but a Compound with a Metall, and serveth as Metall onely. For mine own part, I doe not see in doubling of Mantles it should be reckoned a Metall, for that all doublings or linings of Robes and Garments, though perhaps not al∣together, yet chiefely are ordained for the repelling of cold and weathers drift: to which use Metals are most unfit, as King Dionysius declared, when coming into a Church where the Images were attired in most rich golden Robes, he took them away, saying, Such Garments were too cold for Winter, and too heavy for Summer. A fair pretence to cloak his Sacrile∣gious Avarice.* 1.10 The same Author in his said Accidence, fol. 75. making mention of this Furre, taketh occasion to commend a late prescribed order for the distribution of this rich and rare Furre, according to the dignity of the persons to whom the wearing thereof is allowed, which is this; That an Emperour, a King or a Prince may have the pouldering in their appa∣rell as thick set together as they please: a Duke may have in his Mantles cape, onely four Raungs or Ranks of them: a Marquesse three Raungs and a half: an Earle a Cape of three Raungs onely. In some Coats these are num∣bred, but then they extend not to the number of ten. These rowes or rancks before named are of some Authors called Timbers of Ermyne: for no man under the degree of a Baron or a Knight of the most honourable or∣der of the Garter, may have his Mantle doubled with Ermyne.

* 1.11

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

This is that other Furre, before mentioned, to con∣sist of a mixture of white and black, and hath some re∣semblance of the former: but differeth in this; that where that is composed of white powdered with black; contrariwise this is black, powdered with white. But neither in that,* 1.12 nor in this, shall you make any mention in blazon of any such mixtures, but onely use the name appropriated to either of them, which doth sufficiently express the manner of their compo∣sition to the understanding of those that are but meanly skilled in blazon;* 1.13 the names peculiarly allotted to this Furre is Er∣mynes.

Master Boswell is of this opinion, that Ermyne and Ermynes ought never to be sorted in Armes with the metall of their colour, because (saith he) they are but Furres, and have no proper blazon with any metall. Yet doth he particularly blazon the Coat of Walcot, fol. 106. in the Atchievement of the Right Honourable Lord, Sir William Cecil, Knight, late Lord Treasurer of England, where he might fitly have taken exception against such bearing, if he could have produced any good ground for warranting such his opi∣nion; in default whereof he there passeth the same over with silence, knowing that Antiquity and Custome (which hath the vigour of a law, where there is no law written) are powerfull in things of this nature: he secretly relinquisheth his opinion, forasmuch as it is manifest, that not onely Walcot but Kingsmell, and many others, both ancient and modern, hath used such bearing without contradiction.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

Of those Furres before mentioned, that are com∣pounded of yellow and black, this is the first, and is tearmed in blazon, Ermynois,* 1.14 whose ground or field is yellow, and the Pouldrings black, though this be rich in Armes (saith Leigh) yet in doubling it is not so rich. Of the use of this Furre, Bara maketh mention in his book entituled, Le Blazon des Armoiries, pag. 14. and Edel. H••ryssen in his book entituled Le Jardyn d'armo∣ries, in the Arme of Leefwelt.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

This is that other Furre composed of the same co∣lours, but disposed in a contrary manner to the for∣mer; for whereas that consisteth of yellow powde∣red with black, this is black powdered with yellow; and in blazon is tearmed Pean.

There are other sorts of Furs or Doublings consisting also of two onely colours,* 1.15 which as they are much dif∣ferent in form, so doe they also receive a diverse bla∣zon, from these before specified; which are these that follow, and their like.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

He beareth Verrey, Or and Azure, by the name of Claude de Rochford, somtime Constable of France. In Coats of this sort of bearing, in case where it may be holden doubtfull whether should have the precedence,* 1.16 the Colour or the Metall, the Metall must have the prehe∣minence as the more worthy. The Frenchmen, from whom we do borrow our terms of blazon, do call all sorts of Doublings or Furres of this form, by the name of Vayre; perhaps, Quia ex diversis coloribus altenatim variantur. To this sort of bearing, there are no other terms of blazon allowed. If your vaire doth consist of Argent and Azure, you must in blazon thereof, say onely, he beareth vaire, and it sufficeth: but if it be composed of any other colours, then you must say,* 1.17 he beareth vaire of these or those colours. The Latine blazoners making mention of this sort of bearing, doe thus describe them, Portat arma variata ex pellibus albis & cae∣ruleis, accounting them for skins of little beasts. For that in ancient times they were used for linings of Robes, and Mantles of Senators, Consuls,* 1.18 Empe∣rours and Kings, and thereupon are skilfully tearmed doublings. Of this use of them, Alex. ab Alex. Genial. dierum, lib. 5. fol. 285. saith, Legimus Cali∣gulam depictas penulas induisse.

Sometimes it was permitted to men grown to years, to use a kind of short cloak called Penula, in time of wars, though it were in substance but sleight and thin: For Alexander Severus the Emperour, in favour of aged men, did grant them a priviledge for wearing of this kind of garments: Wolf. Lazius, lib. 8. The garments of the Tribune of the people, and of the Plebeian sect, was most commonly this Penula before mentioned, like as al∣so was Sagum, which was a souldiers Cloak, or Cassock, and Endormis which was an hairy garment much like an Irish mantle, and hood. These were apt garments for repelling of cold; These were not habits beseeming an Emperour or chief Commander to wear: nevertheless we read that Caligu∣la ware oftentime, Depictas penulas, Alex. lib. 5. Amongst the rest this is to

be observed, that Consuls were habited sometimes, in Coat-Armours, cal∣led Paludamenta, and sometimes in Kirtles called Trabeae, which was a kind of garment worn by Kings under their Mantles of State. So that they were sometimes said to be Trabeati, & somtimes to be Paludati, according to these severall habits. Also the Lictores were Officers that usually attended these Consuls, and were like unto Sergeants, or Ministers appointed to inflict cor∣porall punishment upon offenders, and were most commonly in number twelve. These also attended the Consull to the wars, invested also with Coat-Armour.

Concerning those Depictae penulae formerly mentioned, they are said to have been in use with Emperours of later ages, that were addicted to wan∣tonness and delicacie, whereof Tranquillus, in Caligula, writeth in this man∣ner, Vestitu, calceatuque & caetero habitu, neque patrio, neque anili, ac ne virili quidem, ac denique non humano semper usus est: saepe depictas gemmatasque Pe∣nulas indutus. Wolf. Lazius in Comment. Reip. lib. 8. 857. If you observe the proportion of this vaire, you shall easily discern the very shape of the case or skin of little beasts, in them; for so did ancient Governors and Princes of the world (saith Sir John Ferne in Lac. Nob. pag. 86.) line their pom∣pous Robes, with furre of divers colours, sowing one skin to another after the plainest fashion. There is yet another kind of furs much differing from all other the furres before expressed, not onely in shape, but in name also, as in example.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

This sort of furre or doubling, was (as Leigh noteth) of some old Heralds called varry cuppy, and varry tassa, which (saith he) is as much to say, as a Furre of cups, but himself calleth it Meire, for so he reckoneth it well blazoned, and very ancient, and a Spanish coat. But I hold it better blazoned, Potent counterpotent, for the resemblance it hath of the heads of crowches,* 1.19 which Chaucer calleth Potents, Quia potentiam tribuunt infir∣mis, as appeareth in his description of old age in the Romcant of the Rose.

So old she was that she ne went A foot, but it were by potent.* 1.20

So much of furs consisting of two colours, onely: now of such as are com∣posed of more than two colours, according to the division before delive∣red.

Such are these and their like, Viz.

• ...Ermynites
• ...Vaire of many colours.

* 1.21

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

This at the first sight may seem to be all one with the second Furre, before in this Chapter expressed, but differeth in this, that herein is added one haire of Red on each side of every of these Poulderings. And as this differeth little in shape, and shew from that second Furre named Ermyne; so doth it not much differ from the same in name, that being called Ermyne, and this Ermynites.

The other Furre that is composed of more than two colours, is formed of four severall colours at the least, as in example.

[illustration] example of blazon or coat of arms

This differeth much from all the other furs,* 1.22 and (according to Leigh) must be blazoned vaire; this is composed of four distinct colours, viz. Argent, Gule, Or, and Sable. Here I will note unto you,* 1.23 a generall rule that you must carefully observe, not onely in the blazoning of these furs, but generally of all Coat-Armours, viz. that you describe them so particular∣ly and plainly, as who so heareth your blazon, may be able to trick or expresse the forme and true por∣trature thereof, together with the manner of bea∣ring, no lesse perfectly, than if he had done it by some pattern thereof laid before him.

Although I have here in the Blazon of this kind of Fur, as also in the Table of this first Section, put a difference between these three words, vaire, verrey, and varrey, in ascribing to every one of these a particular property in the Blazon of Furs differing in Metals and Colours; in which I must confesse, I have followed Leigh; yet I doe for my own part rather agree with Sir John Ferne, who in the 86. pag. of his Book intituled Lacye•• Nobility, writeth, That there is no other blazon allowed to a Doubling or Fur of this nature, than onely vaire, or variated, for which word variated I have observed, that our English Blazoners use verrey; from the French mascu∣line participle, vaire; and Sir John Ferne there further saith, That these differences of termes verrey, varrey and vaire, are meer phantasies of Leigh his Blazon; and newly by him devised, without any authority of Writer to infer the same; and that before Leigh his time, all Authors had called this sort of Fur or Doubling, Vaire: And if it be varied, or composed of Argent and Azure, then it is so called, and no Colours named: but if it consist of any other Co∣lour, then it is blazed, Vaire, of such and such Colours. And I shall hereaf∣ter in this my present Edition, alwayes blazon a Fur of this nature, of what Metall and Colours soever composed, yea, although it consist of two Me∣tals and two Colours, vaire or verrey, alwayes naming the Metall and Colour, except it consisteth of Argent and Azure: and thus concluding the Chap∣ter of Tinctures, being the first kind of Accidents of Armes, I will now goe on to the second sort.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Furres.
• * 1.2

  Why called Pellicei.
• * 1.3

  Use.
• * 1.4

  White Furre.
• * 1.5

  Order of disci∣pline.
• * 1.6

  Doublings what.
• * 1.7

  White furre blazoned in doublings.
• * 1.8

  Rules for dou∣blings.
• * 1.9

  Ermyne Rule.
• * 1.10

  Order for the wearing of Ermyne.
• * 1.11

  Doublings Ermyne.
• * 1.12

  Rule.
• * 1.13

  Ermynes.
• * 1.14

  Ermynois.
• * 1.15

  Other Furres.
• * 1.16

  Rule.
• * 1.17

  Robes of estate furred after this manner.
• * 1.18

  Alex. Gen. Dier.
• * 1.19

  Potent coun∣ter-potent.
• * 1.20

  Potent what.
• * 1.21

  Ermynites.
• * 1.22

  Vaire.
• * 1.23

  Rule generall.