The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady -- travels into Spain. Describing the devotions, nunneries, humours, customs, laws, militia, trade, diet, and recreations of that people. : intermixt with great variety of modern adventures, and surprising accidents: being the truest and best remarks extant on that court and countrey.

A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN, IN Several Letters. The Last PART. (Book 3)

LETTER X.

YOU did me a particular Kindness in letting me know that all my Letters come to your hands, for I was a little concern'd for the Two last: And since you still desire it, (dear Cousin) I shall con∣tinue to inform you of every thing that passes, and of all that I observe in this Countrey.

The Royal Palace is built upon a Hill which insensibly de∣scends to the very Banks of the River call'd Mansanarez: It looks several ways upon the Country, which is very plea∣sant there. One goes to it through the Callemayor, that is to say, the Great Street, which indeed is both very long and broad, several considerable Houses add to its Beauty. There's a large open place before the Palace, no body of what Qua∣lity soever, is allow'd to come with a Coach into the Court,

but they stop under the great Arch of the Porch, except it be when Bonefires are made there, or when there are Mas∣querades, and then Coaches go in, a very small number of Halbardeers stand at the Gate, upon my asking, why so great a King had so small a Guard, why, Madam, says a Spaniard to me, Are not we all his Guards? He reigns too absolutely in the Hearts of his Subjects, either to fear any thing, or distrust them. The Palace stands at the end of the City towards the South, it is built of very white Stone, Two Pavillions com∣pleat the Front, the rest is not regular. Behind it, there are two square Courts, each consisting of four sides, the first is adorn'd with two great Terrass-walks, which run quite through, they are rais'd upon high Arches, and are beautified with Ballisters and Statues: That which I observ'd very singu∣lar, was, that the Womens Statues had Red upon their Cheeks and Shoulders, you go through fine Porches which bring you to the Stair-case, which is extream large, the Apartments are furnisht with excellent Pictures, admirable Tapistry, most rare Statues, stately Houshold Goods, and in a word, with every thing suitable to a Royal Palace. But there are divers of the Rooms dark, I saw some which had no Window, and receiv'd Light only when the Door open'd, those which have Win∣dows are but little lighter, because of their smallness, they al∣ledge that the Heat is so excessive, that they are willing to hinder the Sun from coming in, as much as they can. But there's yet another Reason, for Glass is very scarce and dear; and as to other Houses, there are many which have Windows without any Glass; and when they would describe a compleat House, they'll tell you in one word, that 'tis Glaz'd. This want of Glass does not appear without, because of the Latices. The Palace is addorn d with divers gilt Balconies, which in∣deed look very fine. All the Councils sit there, and when the King has a mind to be present, he passes through certain Gal∣leries and little Entries unperceiv'd. There's a great many People perswaded, that the Castle of Madrid, which Francis the Fifth caus'd to be built near the Wood of Bologn, was af∣ter the Model of the King of Spain's Palace; but 'tis a mis∣take, and nothing is less alike. The Gardens are not suitable to the Dignity of the Place, they are neither large enough, nor so well improv'd as they should be, the Ground as I have observ'd, reaches to the very Brink of Mansanarez, the whole is inclos'd with Walls; and if these Gardens have any Beauty, they owe it purely to Nature. They work hard to get the Young Queens Apartment ready for her Reception, all her

Servants are nam'd, and the King expects her with the great∣est Impatience.

The Buen Retiro is a Royal House near one of the Gates of the City, the Count Duke caus'd at first, a little house to be built there, and call'd it Galinera, it was for keeping his rare Poultry in, which had been presented to him, and as he often went to see them, and the Scituation of the Place was on the descent of a little Hill, and there was a pleasant Prospect, so he was invited to undertake a considerable Building. Four great Apartments and four great Pavillions make a perfect Square. In the middle there's a Flower-Pot, well furnish'd with Flowers, and a Fountain, whose Statue (which throws the Water when they have a mind) Sprinkles the Flowers and the Cross-Walks, which goes from one Apartment to another. This Building has the fault of being too low, the Rooms are large, stately and adorn'd with curious Paintings. Every thing shines with Gold and lively Colours, with which the Cielings and Floors are beautified. I took notice in the great Gal∣lery, of the Entry of Queen Elizabeth, Mother to the late Queen, she's on Horseback, with a Ruff and Fardingal, she has a Hat trimm'd with Jewels and a Plume of Feathers; she is fat, fair and pleasing, she has fine Eyes, and her Looks are sweet and ingenious. The Room for acting Plays in, is well design'd, very large, all well set out, with Carving and Guild∣ing, there may be fifteen in a Box without inconvenience to each other, they have all Latice Windows, and the King's is richly guilt, there's neither Galleries nor Amphitheatre, e∣very body sits upon Benches on the Floor. On the side of the Terrass is the Statue of Philip the II. upon a Horse of Brass, this Piece is of great Value, those that are curious please them∣selves in taking a draught of him. The Park is above a good League in compass, there are in it divers separate Lodges, very pretty, and which have good Accomodation of room, there's a Canal which is supply'd with Water from Springs at a vast Charge, and another square Place in which the King has little Gundoloes painted and gilt, thither he goes during the great Heats of the Summer, the Fountains, Trees and Meadows making that Place more cool and pleasant than any other, there's Grottos, Cataracts, Ponds, Shades, and in some parts even something of the wild Fields, which shews the sim∣plicity of the Countrey, and is extream delightful.

The Casa del Campo is for rural Affairs, it is not great, but its Scituation is fine, being upon the Bank of Mansanarez, the the Trees in't are high, and yield a Shade at all times. I speak

of the Trees of this Country, because one finds very few of them, there's Water in divers parts of it, particularly one Pond which is surrounded with great Oaks. The Statue of Philip the IV. is in the Garden, this Place is a little neg∣lected here, I saw Lions, Bears, Tigers and other wild Beasts, which live very long in Spain, because the Climate is little different from that from which they come, many People go there to think, and the Ladies usually choose this Place to walk in, because 'tis less frequented than others. But to return to Mansanarez, this River does not run up to the City, at certain times, it is neither River, nor so much as a Brook, tho at other times it is so big and rapid, that it carries before it all that stands in its way, all the Summer People walk in it, there's so little water in't at this season, that one can hardly wet ones foot, and yet in Winter, all on a sudden, it over∣flows the adjacent Country, this is caus'd by the melting of the great Quantities of Snow which covers the Hills, and so de∣scends into the Mansanarez in violent Torrents of Water, Philip the II. caus'd a Bridge to be built over it, which they call'd the Segovie Bridge, it is a very lofty one, and every way as fine as the Pont-neuf, over the River Seine at Paris, when Strangers see it, they fall a laughing, they think it ridiculous to have caus'd such a Bridge to be built, where there's no Water. Hereupon there was one said wittily enough, he would advise 'em to sell the Bridge, and buy some Water.

The Florid is a most pleasant House, and its Gardens are infinitely delightful; there are in great numbers Italian Sta∣tues by the best Masters: The Water there makes a pretty sort of a murmur, which with the sweet smell of the Flowers, (of which they have a Collection of the rarest and best scent) is very charming. From thence we come to the Prado Nuevo, where there are several spouting Fountains, and Trees there are of an extraordinary height; this is a Walk, which though it be not even Ground, yet is not less agreeable; its descent is so easie, that one hardly perceives the unevenness of the Place.

There is also the Carzuela, which affords nothing but Con∣trary delights, and some cool Rooms, where the King comes and rests himself after Hunting; but 'tis the Prospect which yields the Pleasure, and very fine things might be there made.

That I may tell you of something else besides the Kings Houses, you must know, dear Cousin, that on May-day, they resort to a Place without the gate of Toleda. This is called

El Sotillo, and no body excuse themselves from going thither; to be sure then I went, but it was more to see then be seen, thô my French-Dress made me very remarkable, and drew a great many Eyes upon me, The Women of great Quality ne∣ver go abroad to take the Air in their whole Life, except it be in the first year of their Marriage, I mean into publick Walks and Places; and then too, 'tis under the very noses of their Husbands, the Wife at the lower, and the Husband at the up∣per end of the Coach; the Curtains all open, and she finely a∣dorn'd: but 'tis a rediculous thing to see these two Creatures sit like Statues, looking at each other, and without speaking a word in an hours time. There are certain days set apart for walking and taking the Air, all Madrid go abroad then; the King is seldom there, but except the King and a few Courtiers, no body else fail of going. That which makes it very trouble∣some is, their long Traces, which take up a great compass of Ground, and occasion the Horses often to entangle. Several Ladies which are not of the highest Rank, resort thither, but with their Curtains close drawn; they only look through little Glasses which are fastned into the sides of the Coach: but at Night the Ladies of great Quality come Incognito; and when 'tis dark they please themselves so far as to walk a foot: They wear white Mantles upon their Heads; these are a kind of a Hood made of Woolen stuff, which covers them all over; they Embroider them with black Silk: they are only the or∣dinary Women, and such as go upon some Intreague, which wear them; yet sometimes, as I have said, certain Court-La∣dies will go in this Dress. The Cavallero's also alight and walk, and say some odd thing or other to them, but they meet with their match.

The Count de Berka, the German Enyoy, told me, that t'other Night as he was at Supper, and his Windows (because of the cold) being shut, somebody knock'd at the Lattice of his Hall, he sent to see who it was; they found three Wo∣men in white Mantles, who desired to have the Windows o∣pen'd that they might see him. He sent them word, that they would be more conveniently in the Hall: They came in all concealed, and placed themselves in a corner, and so stood all the while he was at Table. He intreated them (but in vain) to sit down and eat some Sweet-meats, but they would neither do one nor t'other; but after they had said a great ma∣ny merry things to him, in which they abundantly shewed a strange quickness of Wit, they went away. He discovered that these were the Dutchesses de Medina Celi, d' Ossona and

Ducada, having seen them at their own Houses; for Ambas∣adors have the priviledge sometimes to go to the great La∣dies, and to give them a visit of Audience; but he was willing to have yet a greater certainty, and therefore caused them to be follow'd: and they were seen to go into one of their Houses by a false Door, at which some of their Women waited for them. These little Disguises are not always attended with o∣ver-much Innocence.

As to the Men, when Night comes, they walk a foot in the Prado; they make up to the Coaches in which they see Wo∣men, and leaning upon the Bouts, they either throw Flowers, or sprinkle sweet Water upon them; and when they are per∣mitted, they go into the Coach to them.

But as to the meeting on May-day, It is certainly a great pleasure to see the Citizens and the People how they sit; some upon the young Corn, some upon the sides of the Mansana∣rez, others playing at Ombre, and others either with their Wives, Children, Friends or Mistresses, basking themselves in the Sun; some are eating of a Sallad with Leeks and Oni∣ons, and others, hard Eggs; and others Gamon of Bacon, and even Galinas de Loche, which are Sea-Hens, and very ex∣cellent. They all drink Water like Ducks, and play either up∣on the Guittar or Harp. The King came there with Don John, the Duke de Medina Celi, the Constable de Castile, and the Duke de Pastratie; I only saw his Coach of green Oil-cloth, drawn by six py'd Horses, the finest in the World; and all co∣vered over with Gold-spangles, and knots of Rose-coloured Ribbon: The Curtains of the Coach were of green Damask, with a fine gold Fringe, but so close drawn, that one could per∣ceive nothing but through the little Glasses on the sides of the Coach. It is the Custom, when the King passes by, to stand still, and in respect, to draw the Curtains; but we, according to the French fashion, let ours be open, and were satisfied in making a very low Bow. The King took notice of a Spaniel-bitch I had in my Arms, and which the Marchioness d' Alvi, who is a very pretty Lady, desired me to carry to the Con∣stable of Colonna's Lady; and as I lov'd it mightily, she sent it to me very often. The King sent the Count de los Arcos, Captain of the Spanish Guards, to ask me for it; he came up to the Coach side on Horse-back. I immediately gave it to him, and the Creature had the Honour to be made much of by his Majesty, was mightily pleased with the little Bells about her Neck; and the Buckles upon her Ears. He had a Bitch which he lov'd extreamly, and he sent to ask me if I would be wil∣ling

that he should keep mine for Daraza, which was the Name of his.

You may easily imagine, Dear Cousin, what answer I made. He returned me the Spaniel, but without either her Collar or Buckles, and he order'd the Count de Los Arcos to give me a gold Box full of Pastills, which he had about him, and desired me to keep it. It is but of a small value, but coming from such a hand, I mightily esteem it.

It was Don John, who is my Kinswomans Friend, which ob∣tain'd this mark of the King's bounty to me; for he knew of my being in Madrid, though I had not had the Honour yet to see him.

Two days afterwards, as I was all alone in my apartment, busie in painting a small piece, I saw come in, a Man whom I knew not; but one, who by the air of his Face, I could easily judge to be of Quality: He told me, that not having met with my Kinswoman, he was resolved to tarry till she came, for he had Letters to give her. After some little Discourse, he gave occasion to talk of Don John, and told me that he doubt∣ed not, that I frequently saw him. I reply'd, that indeed, since my arrival, this Prince came often to visit my Kinswo∣man, but he never ask'd for me. The reason of that perhaps, adds he, was, because you were sick that day. I was not sick, reply'd I, and I should have been very glad both to have seen and heard him, for I have been told both good and ill of him, and I have a mind to know whether they do him right or wrong. I have signify'd my desire to my Kinswoman, but she told me, there was no way to gratifie me, for he was so devout, that he would speak to no Woman. It is possible, says he, in smiling, that his Devotion should so much disturb his Mind? for my part, I am confident he ask'd for you, and was assur'd that you were ill of a Feaver; Of a Feaver! cry'd I, that's very strange! I beseech ye, how do you know it? But just then, my Kinswoman came in, she was extreamly a∣mazed to find Don John with me, and so was I, for I little thought it was he. He told her several times, that he knew not how to pardon her for the Idea she had given me of him, that he was no Bigot, and that he was persuaded, true Devo∣tion did not make a Man rude and inhumane,

I think him very handsome, of a noble Carriage, very well bread, and extream witty, and of a mighty quickness of Mind. As my Kinswoman has a great share of Wit, so she clear'd her self well enough from what he taxt her with. But when he was gone, she was ready to eat me for anger, because I

deny'd having had a Feaver. I desir'd her to excuse me, be∣cause me, because I was ignorant what she had said to him, and that I could not divine: She answer'd me, that at Court, one must either be able to divine, or else they would act a very silly part.

She ask'd the Prince, if it was true, that the Queen-Mother had writ to the King, and beg'd that she might see him, and that he had refus'd her. He agreed it was, and also, that that was the only reason which hindred his Majesty from going to Aranjus, lest she should come to him there, contrary to the Prohibition for her not stiring out of Toleda. What, my Lord, said I, will not the King see the Queen his Mother? Say ra∣ther, reply's he, that 'tis State-Policy which forbids Sovereigns to follow their Inclinations when they do not suit with the publick good. We have a constant Maxim in the Council of State, al∣ways to consult the Spirit of Charles V. in all difficult Matters; we enquire what he would have done upon such an occasion, and that we endeavour to practice in our turn. For my part, I am of Opinion with a great many others, that he ought not to see his Mother, since it was fit for him to banish her; and the King himself is so fully perswaded of this, that he answered her, it could not be. But it was not difficult for me to see, that Don John fitted the Genius of Charles V. to his own.

The King is gone to Buen Retiro, where I had the Honour to see him first, at a Play, for he open'd the Lattice of his Box to look at us in ours, because we were drest after the French way. The Danish Ambassador's Lady was drest after the same fashion, and so handsome, that he told the Prince of Monteleon, he was mightily taken with us, only it was pitty that our Heads were not trim'd, and our Bodies clad after the Spanish mode; that the more he look'd at the French Ladies Cloths, the more they displeas'd him, that the Mens did not so much offend him. The Opera of Alcinus was acted before him, but I gave little Attention to it, looking so earnestly at the King, that I might be able to describe him to you. I must tell you then, that his Complexion is delicate and fair, he has a broad Fore-head, his Eyes are fine and have a great deal of sweetness in them; his Face is very long and narrow, his Lips like those of the House of Austria, are very thick, and his Mouth is wide, his Nose is very much hawk't, his Chin is sharp and turns up, he has a great Head of Hair, and fair, lank and put behind his Ears, his Stature is pretty high, straight and slender, his Legs are small, and almost all of a

thickness: He is naturally very kind and good, he is inclin'd to Clemency and of the great variety of Council he has given him, he takes that which is most for the advantage of his People, for he loves them extreamly. He is not of a vindicative Spirit, he is sober, liberal and pious; his Inclinations are Virtuous, he is of an even temper, and of easie access: He hath not had all that Education which is requisite to form the Mind, but yet he does not want any neither. I will now note some of his merry Humours which have been told me, and though they are of no great importance, yet it may still be pleasant to know them.

It is not long since the Lady Connestable de Collonna, who is in a Religious House at St. Domingo, got out of the Abbey, from whence she had made several Escapes; the Nuns tyr'd with her proceeding, resolv'd to admit her no more; and indeed the last time she endeavour'd to get in, they plainly told her, that she might either betake her self to the World, or chose some other place than their House for a Retirement. She was extreamly offended at this refusal, which by no means suited with a Person of her Quality and Merit. She got some of her Friends to apply themselves to the King, and he sent Orders to the Abbess to receive her in again. The Abbess and all the Nuns were obstinate in their refusal, saying that they would themselves represent their Reasons to his Majesty, and in their Persons go to him. When this Answer of the Nuns was re∣lated to the King, he burst out a laughing, and said, It will be pretty sport to see this Procession of the Nuns, who will come along singing, Libera nos Domine de la Condestabile. But yet they did not go, and chose rather to obey, which is always safest.

Some days ago it rain'd and thunder'd most terribly; the King, who sometimes pleases himself in playing little Tricks with his Courtiers, commanded the Marquis d' Astorgas to wait for him upon the Terras walk in the Palace. The good old man said to him in smiling, Sir, will it be long before you come? Why do you ask, said the King? that your Majesty, reply'd he, may send a Coffin to put me in, for there's no likelyhood that I should be able to contend with such Weather as this. Go, go Marquess, says the King, I'll come to you. The Mar∣quess went out, and without any Scruple, stept into his Coach and went directly home. Two hours afterwards, the King said, for certain the good old Man is wet to the Skin, let him be call'd in, I have a mind to see him in such a Condition. But they told the King that he did not expose himself at all,

upon which he said, that he was not only old, but very wise.

There was taken a little while since near the Palace disguis'd in man's Clothes, one of the handsomest Misses of Madrid, she had set upon her Gallant, of whom she believ'd she had cause to complain, he knowing her by her voice and the manner of handling her Sword, would not make use of his to defend him∣self, so far from it, that he opened his Wast-coat, and gave her free leave to thrust at him, thinking perhaps, that she ei∣ther was not angry, or had not Courage enough to do it; but he deceiv'd himself, for with all her strength she made a Pass at him, which made him drop down, she no sooner perceiv'd his Blood, but she threw her self upon the ground, and cri'd out most dreadfully, tore her Skin off her Face, and pull'd her Hair off her Head: the People which were got about her very well perceiv'd by her Looks, and her long Hair, that she was a Woman, the Officers of Justice seiz'd her, and some Lords passing by at that time, seeing her, related to the King what had happen'd: He had a mind to speak with her, she was brought before him; Art thou she, said he, to her, that has wounded a Man near the Palace, Yes, Sir, answered she, I was resolv'd to be revenged of an ungrateful Man; he promis'd I should have his Heart, and yet I am assur'd he gave it since to another. But why art thou so afflicted, repli'd he, since thou hast got thy Revenge? Ah Sir, continued she, in seeking my Revenge, I have punisht my self, I am now upon the brink of Despair, I beseech your Majesty to command them to put me to death, for I have deserv d the severest Torment. The King took pity of her, and turning to those about him, Well, really, said he, I can hardly believe that there's in the World so mi∣serable a State, as to love and not be belov'd. Go, said he, thou hast more Love than Reason, But endeavour to be wiser for the future, and do not abuse that Liberty I restore to thee. And thus she withdrew without being carri'd to the Place where they keep miserable Wretches that have led ill Lives.

All this that I have told you of the King has carri'd me from the Opera of Alcinous, the first time I saw it was, with so much wandring of Mind, that when I saw it again, it appear'd quite new to me, there was never seen more sorry Machines, they made the Gods come down on Horseback upon a Beam which reacht from one end of the Theater to the other; the Sun shin'd by the help of a dousen of oyl'd Paper Lanthorns, in each of which there was a Lamp: when Alcinous practis'd her Enchantments, and invok'd the Demons, they came conveni∣ently

out of Hell by Ladders: Le Gratiosa, that is to say, the Jack-pudding said a thousand Impertinences, the Singers had in different good voices, only they sang too much in the Throat. Heretofore there was a Liberty for several sorts of People to come into the great Room, but this Custom is chang'd, and now there's only suffer'd to come in, the Great Lords, and at the most, the Tutulados and the Knights of the Three Military Orders. This Room is certainly a very fair one, it is all paint∣ed and gilt; the Boxes, as I have already told you, are al∣ways Barr'd with Lattices like those we have at the Opera; but they reach from top to bottom, and look as if they were Chambers, that side where the King sits is magnificent. As for the rest, the finest Comedy in the World (I mean those that are acted in the City) very often receives its Fate from the weak Fancy of some ignorant Wretch or other. But there is one particularly, and a Shoomaker, which decides the matter, and who hath gain'd such an absolute Authority so to do, that when the Poets have made their Plays, they go to him and as 'twere, sue for his Approbation, they read to him their Plays, the Shoomaker with grave Looks thereupon, utters abundance of Nonsence, which nevertheless the poor Poet is forced to put up, after all, if he happens to be at the first Acting of it, every body has their Eye upon the Behaviour and Actions of this pitiful Fellow, the Young People of what Quality soever imi∣tate him. If he Yawns, they yawn, if he laughs so do they. In a word, sometimes he grows angry or weary, and then takes a little whistle and falls a whistling, at the same time you shall hear a hundred whistles, which makes so shril a noise that 'tis enough to confound the heads of the Spectators. By this time our poor Poet is quite ruin'd, All his Study and Pains having been at the Mercy of a Block-head, according as he was in a good or bad humour.

In this Play-house, there is a certain part of it, which is call'd La Casuela, it is like the Amphitheater, all the Women that are not over-vertuous sit there, and thither the great Lords go to talk with them, sometimes they make such a noise that they would outdo the Thunder, and they say things so ve∣ry pleasant, that they would make one die with laughing: for their Wit is free from all restraint of Decency. Besides, they are inform'd of all things that happen in the Town; and if they had a merry Jest to break upon their Majesties, they had rather be half hang'd then lose it.

It may be said, that the Women Players are ador'd in this Court, there's hardly any that is not the Mistress of some great

Person, and for whom several Duels have been fought, and a great many People kill'd. I do not know how charming their Discourse may be, but I am sure their Persons are the ugliest in the World, they are extravagantly expensive, and sooner must a whole Family perish with Hunger and Thirst, than one of those beggerly Players should want the least Superfluity.

We are now in a Season that's troublesome enough, for 'tis the Custom here to put their Mules to Grass, and every body almost walks a foot. At this time you can see nothing but Grass brought from all parts, and the greatest Lord hardly keeps two Mules to draw him, for this reason they often go on Horseback.

Those Horses which have been at the Bull-baitings and are good for these sort of Sports, are dear, and much in request. The King had a mind to divert himself, and ordered a Bull-Feast to be on the Twenty second of this Month, I was very glad of it, for though I had heard much talk of them, I never saw any yet; and the young Count De Conismark, who is a Swede, would Taurise, or Bait the Bull for a young Lady of my Acquaintance, so that I was the more eager to go to the Pla∣ca-Mayor, where my Kinswoman, as she was a Tutulada of Castille, had her Balcony set up with a Canopy, a Carpet and Cushion of State. To give you a particular Account of all that passes at these Feasts, I must tell you, that after the King has appointed one of them, there are some Cows, which they call Mandarines, led into the Forrests and Mountains of Andalousia. It is known that the most furious Bulls are in these Places, and as they are train'd up for this purpose, so they run into the Wood; the Bulls spy them out, and eagerly court them, those fly and these pursue them, and so are decoy'd into certain Pallisadoes, set on purpose along the way, which is sometimes Thirty or Forty Leagues in Length, several Men are armed with Half∣pikes and well mounted, hunt these Bulls and hinder them from coming back, but it is not seldom that they are forc'd to fight them within these Pales, and frequently they are kill'd or wounded.

There are People placed all along the Road, which bring ad∣vice when the Bulls will arrive at Madrid, and there also they set Pallisadoes in the Street to prevent any mischief.

The Mandarines, who are real traitors, go constantly before, and the poor Bulls quietly follow after, into the very place de∣sign'd for baiting them, where there are great Stables built on purpose with Shutters contriv'd to keep them in, there are sometimes 30, 40, or 50, Together, this Stable has two Doors,

the Mandarines go in at one, and escape at the other; and when the Bulls think to follow them still they are hindred by Trap, in which they are caught.

After they have rested a few hours, they are one after ano∣ther let out of the Stable into the great Place, where there are a great many young, lusty, strong Peasants, some of which take the Bull by the horns, and others by the tail, and because they mark him upon the Buttock with a hot iron, and slit his ears, they call them Heradores. This is not so easily done, for there are frequently divers Persons kill'd, and this is the be∣ginning of the Shew, which always mightily delights the Peo∣ple, whether it be upon the Account that Blood is shed, or else, that they love to see something extraordinary, and at first sight surprizing, and which afterwards furnishes with matter for long Reflections; but though unlucky Accidents do happen at these Feasts, yet it does not appear that they take any Warning from them, for they are still forward to expose themselves at at every Baiting that's made.

The Bulls are fed, and the best of them are pickt out for the Baiting; they can even distinguish those that are either Sons or Brothers of those Bulls which made a great slaughter in for∣mer Feasts, they tie to their horns a long Ribbon, and by the colour of that every body knows them again, and recites the History of their Ancestors; that the Grandsire or great Grand∣sire of these Bulls bravely kill'd such and such a one, and they expect no less from those that then appear.

When they have sufficiently rested, the Placa Mayor is co∣vered with Sand, and round it are placed Bars as high as a Man, upon which are painted the Arms of the King and his King∣doms. I fancy this Place to be larger than the Place Royal at Paris, it is longer than it is broad, and about it are Houses built upon Pillars and Arches, like Towers, five Stories high, and to each a row of Balconies, into which there are great Glass-doors. The King's stands more forward than the rest, is more spacious, and all gilt. It is in the middle of one of the sides, with a Canopy over it; over against it are the Ambas∣sadours Balconies, who have place when the King goes to Chap∣pel, that is the Nuncio, the Emperor's Ambassadours, that of France, of Poland, the Venetian, and that of Savoy; those of England, Holland, Swedland, Denmark and other Protestant Princes, have none there. The Councils of Castille, Arragon, the Inquisiton, Italy, Flanders, the Indies, the Orders, War, the Croisado, and of the Finances, are on the right hand of the King: they are distinguisht by their Arms upon their Crimson Velvet

Carpets which are all embroider'd with Gold. After these, are placed the city Companies, the Judges, the Grandees and Titu∣lodos, according to their severall Degrees, and at the King's Charge, or else at the City's, who hire these Balconies of pri∣vate Persons that dwell there.

For all those I have now nam'd the King makes a Collation; and it is given in very neat Baskets, to the Women as well as the Men, it consists of Fruits dri'd, Sweet-meats, and Water cool'd with Ice, of Gloves, Ribbons, Fans, Pastiles, Silk-stockings, and Garters, insomuch that these Feasts always cost above a hundred thousand Crowns, and this Expence is defray'd out of the Fines and Forfeitures adjudg'd to the King, or to the City, this is a Fund which must not be medl'd with, tho t'were to save the Kingdom from the greatest Danger, the doing of it might cause a Sedition. So bewitcht are the People with this kind of Pleasure.

From the Level of the Pavement to the first Balcony, there are Scaffolds made for the rest of the People, they give from Fifteen to twenty Pistols for a Balcony; and there is not any but what are lett, and adorn'd with rich Carpets, and fine Ca∣nopies. The People are not seated under the King's Balcony, that Place is fill'd with his Guards, there's only Three Gates open into it, through which the Persons of Quality pass in their richest Coaches, and particularly the Ambassadors; and they make several turns round it, a little before the King comes. The Cavaliers salute the Ladies who stand in the Balconies, without being cover'd with their Mantles or Vails, they are deck'd out with all their Jewels, and whatever they have that is finest. One can see nothing but extream rich Stuffs, with Tapistry, Cushions and Carpets, all of rais'd work in Gold. I never saw any thing more glorious, the King's Balcony is hung round with Green and Gold Curtains, which he draws when he will not be seen.

The King came about four a clock, and immediately all the Coaches went out of the Place. Generally the Ambassador of France is the most taken notice of, because he and all his Train are dress'd after the French mode; and he is the only Ambassa∣dor that has this Priviledge here, for the others are in the Spa∣nish Dress. There's five or six Coaches go before the King's, in which are the Officers, the Gentlemen and Pages of his Cham∣ber. The Coach of Honour, in which there goes no body, marches immediatly before his Majesty's own, whose Coachman and Postilion are always barehead, a Footman carrying their Hats; the Coach is surrounded with Foot-Guards. Those which

they call the Life-Guard have Partisans, and march very near the Coach, and next the Boots go a great many of the King's Pages, cloath'd in Black, and without Swords, which is the on∣ly mark to know them from other Pages. As the Ladies that are design'd to be about the young Queen, are already nam'd, so they all came under the Conduct of the Dutchess of Terra Nova, in the King's Coaches, they march by the Mens Boutes of the highest Quality, some on Foot that they might be nearer, others mounted on the finest Horses in the World, train'd up for that purpose, and which they call Horses of Motion. That they may perform this piece of Gallantry, they must have leave from their Mistresses, otherwise 'tis a great Blemish to their Reputation, and even engages the Ladies Kindred in Trouble, for they take their Honour to be concern'd in this Liberty: But when she approves of it, they may practise all the pleasant Humours, for which these sort of Feasts minister occasion. But though they need fear nothing from the Ladies they serve, nor their Relations, yet they are not freed from all uneasiness, for the Duegno's or Women of Honour, of which there's too great a Provision in each Coach, and the Guardadamas which go on Horseback, are troublesome Observers, hardly can one begin to discourse, but these old Haggs will draw the Curtain, and the Guardadamas will tell you, that that Love which is fullest of Respect is the most discreet, so that very often one must be content to let the Eyes speak, and to sigh so loud, that one may be heard at a Distance.

All things being thus dispos'd, the Captains of the Guards and the other Officers mounted upon very fine Horses, enter the Place, at the head of the Spanish, German, and Burgundian Guards, they are cloath'd in Yellow Velvet or Sattin, which is the Livery of the King, trim'd with tufted crimson Galoon mixt with Gold and Silver. The Yeomen of the Guard, which I call the Life-Guard, wear only a short Cloak of the same Live∣ry, over black Cloaths. The Spaniards wear Breeches tuckt up after the old way. The Germans, which are called Tudesques, wear them like the Switzers, they stand in Ranks near the King's Balcony, while the two Captains and the two Lieute∣nants, who carry each of them a Staff of command in their Hands, and are follow'd by a great many in Liveries, march all four in a Rank, at the head of the Guards, several times round the Place, to give the necessary Orders, and to salute the La∣dies of their Acquaintance; their Horses curvet and bound con∣tinually, they are covered with knots of Ribbons, and embroi∣dered Housings; they are called Pissadoyes for Distinction. Up∣on

this day every one of these Lords affect to wear that colour which their Mistresses love most.

When the People are come without the Bars, and are seated upon their Scaffolds, the Place is water'd with forty or fifty Tuns of Water which is brought thither in little Carts. Then the Captains of the Guards come back, and take their Posts un∣der the King's Balcony, where all the Guards are likewise pla∣ced, and make a sort of a Fence, standing very close together; and although the Bulls are sometimes ready to kill them, yet they must not go back nor stir from their place; they only present to them the Point of their Halberds, and so with a great deal of hazard defend themselves.

I do assure you that this strange number of People, (for every place is full, even the tops of the Houses as well as the rest) the Balconies so richly set out, and so many beautiful Women in them, this great Court, the Guards, and in a word, the whole place makes one of the finest shews that ever I saw.

As soon as the Guards are possess'd of the quarter where the King is, six Alguazils, or City Door-keepers, enter the place, each holding a white Rod: Their Horses are excellent, har∣nass'd after the Morisco fashion, and cover'd with little Bells. Their Habit is black, they wear Plumes of Feathers, and put the best Looks on they can, in so much danger as they are in; for they are not allow'd to stir out of the List: and 'tis their busi∣ness to fetch the Knights that are to fight.

I should tell you, before I proceed any further in this short Description, that there are certain Laws establish'd for this sort of Baiting, which are call'd Duelo, that is, Duel, because one Knights assault the Bull, and fights him in single Combat. These are some of the things which are observed: One must be a Gentleman born, and known for such, that he may fight on Horseback. It is not allow'd to draw the Sword upon the Bull, unless he has insulted over you; they call it insulting when the Bull breaks or forces the Garrochion or Lance out of the Hand, or if he make your Hat fall off, or your Cloak, or has wounded you or your Horse, or any of your Company. In this case, the Knight is oblig'd to push his Horse directly upon the Bull; for this is an Empenno, that is to say, an affront that engages one to be reveng'd, or to dye; and he must give him Ʋna Cachilada, or a back stroke upon his Head or Neck. But if the Horse on which the Cavallero rides, refuses to go up to the Bull, then immediately he alights, and couragiously marches up a foot to this fierce Animal. The Sword is very short, and about three fingers broad. The other Knights which are there

to fight, are also oblig'd to alight off their Horses and accom∣pany him, that is under the Empenno; but they do not second him, so as to assist him in the least against his Enemy. If they all march up in this manner towards the Bull, and he flies to the other end of the Place instead of tarrying for them, or meeting them, after they have pursu'd him some time, they have satisfied the Laws of Duelling.

If there be in the Town any Horses that have been at a Bai∣ting, and are dextrous at it, though they do not know the Ow∣ners, yet they'll borrow them; nay, though they do not desire to sell them, nor the others in a condition to buy them, yet they never refuse them. If by mischance the Horse is killed, and they offer to pay for him, it is not accepted; because, to receive Money upon such an occasion would not be agreeable to the Spanish Generosity. Nevertheless, it would vex a Man to have a Horse that he had taken pains to breed up, without any more ado taken from him by the first Stranger, and through his means kill'd. This sort of Combat is reckon'd so dangerous, that Indulgencies are expos'd in several Churches for those days, because of the great Massacre that is then made. Several Popes would have quite abolish'd such barbarous sights, but the Spaniards beg'd the Court of Rome so earnestly to let them continue, that their Humour has been comply'd with, and to this day they are tolerated.

The first day I was there, the Alguazils came to the Gate, which is at the end of the List, to fetch the six Knights (of whom the Count de Connismark was one) which offer'd them∣selves to Combat. Their Horses are handsome to admiration and most richly harnass'd: Besides those they ride on, they had each of them a dozen led by Grooms, with as many Mules loaded with Rejones or Garochons, which are, as I have said, Launces made of very dry Fir, about four or five foot long, painted and gilt, and the Iron-work very well polish'd; and the Mules were cover'd with Velvet Cloths of the same colour of the Combatants, with their Arms embroider'd in Gold: This is not practis'd at all Feasts, when the City orders one, there's far less Magnificence; but as the King commanded this, and it was upon his Marriage, nothing was omitted.

The Cavalleros were drest in black, embroider'd either with Gold and Silver, Silk or Bugles; they had white Plumes of Feathers spotted with several colours, and a rich knot of Diamonds, with a Hat-band of the same. They had Scarfs, some white, and others crimson, blue and yellow, embroidered with Gold. Some wore them round their Wast, others over their Shoul∣ders

like a Belt, and others about their Arm; these last were narrow and short, without doubt their Mistresses presented them, for commonly they run to please them, and to shew that there's no danger to which they would not expose themselves for their diversion. They had also a black Cloak which wrapt them about, but the ends being thrown behind them, it did not hinder their Arms: they wore little white Buskins, with long guilt Spurs, which have only one sharp point after the Moors fashion; they also sit a Horse like them, which is called Cavalgas a la gineta.

The Cavalleros were handsomly mounted, and lookt grace∣fully enough for this Country; they were nobly born, and eve∣ry one had forty Foot-men, some cloath'd in gold Mohair trim'd with Lace; others in Carnation-colour'd Brocado, stript with Gold and Silver, and the rest in some other fashion. Every one of them was drest like a Stranger, whether 'twas Turk, Hungari∣an, Moor, Indian, or wild People. Several of the Foot-men carried a bundle of these Garochons I have mentioned, and this lookt very well: Thus with all their Train they crost the Plaza Mayor, conducted by the six Alguazils, and the Trumpets sounding. They came before the King's Balcony, and made a profound Reverence to him, and desired leave of him to fight the Bulls, which he granted them, and wisht them Victory. Then the Trumpets every where began to sound again, and this is done, as 'twere, in defiance of the Bulls. All the People fall a shouting, and repeat Viva, viva los bravos Cavalleros: After this they separate, and salute the Ladies of their Acquaintance. All the Foot-men go out of the List, except two for each Knight, which are left to carry their Rejoues; they keep close to their Masters, and 'tis very seldom that they forsake them.

Several young Men enter into the place, and they come a great way off to fight on these days: These I now speak of are a foot, and not being nobly born, they use no Ceremonies with them. Whilst one Cavallero is fighting, the rest withdraw, but not out of the Bars; and they do not assault that Bull which another has undertaken to fight, unless he makes at them. The first to whom the Bull comes when they are altogether, is he that fights him. When he has wounded the Knight, they cry out, fileno es Empenno, that is to say, it is an Obligation upon such an one to revenge the Affront he has received from the Bull; and indeed Honour engages him, either on Horseback, or a foot, to attack the Bull, and give him a cut with his Sword, as I have said, either upon his Head or Throat, without striking him in any other part. Afterwards he may fight him

as he will, and strike him where he can; but in doing this, ones Life is a thousand times in danger. When this blow is given, if the Knights are a foot, they may mount their Hor∣ses.

When the King thought it was time to begin the Baiting, two Alguazils come under his Balcony, and he gives to Don John the Keys of the Stable where the Bulls are secur'd; for the King keeps the Key, and when it must be thrown, he delivers it into the hands of a Privado, or Chief Minister, as a Favour. Im∣mediately the Trumpets sound, the Timbrels and the Drums, the Fifes and the Haut-boys, the Flutes and Bagpipes make a noise round the Place one after another; and the Alguazils, who are naturally great Cowards, go trembling to open the Doors where the Bulls are kept. There was a Man hid behind the door, who shut it as fast as he could, and then by a Ladder climb'd up to the top of the Stable; for 'tis usual with the Bull, in coming out, to look behind the door, and to begin his Ex∣pedition by killing, if he can, the Man that stands there: after that he falls a running with all his might after the Alguazils, who spur their Horses to save themselves, for they are not allow'd to stand upon their defence, and their best play is to run away. Those Men which are on foot, throw at him Arrows and very sharp Darts, which are trim'd with Cutt-paper; these Darts stick in him in such a manner, that the pain causing him to stir much, makes the Iron enter deeper; besides, when he runs, the Paper makes a noise, and being on fire, vexes him extream∣ly; his Breath looks like a thick mist about him, his Eyes and his Nostrils are like fire, he runs swifter than a Race-horse, and holds it much better; to speak truth, he strikes Terror. The Knight who is to fight him comes near him, takes a Rejon, holds it like a Ponyard, the Bull makes up to him, he declines his blow, and thrusts his Gorachon at him; the Bull so thrusts it back, that the Wood being weak, it breaks, immediately his Foot-men, who hold ten or twelve dozen, present him with another, which the Cavallero thrusts also into his Body; with this the Bull falls a bellowing, grows angry, runs, leaps, and woe be to them that stand in his way: And if at any time he is ready to run at a Man, a Cloak or a Hat is thrown at him, and this stops him; or else, one falls down on the Ground, and the Bull in running, passes over him. They have also great Figures made of Past-bords, with which they deceive him, and so gain time to escape. That which helps them further is, that the Bull constantly shuts his Eyes just before he pushes with his Horns, and they are so quick in that moment to avoid the

blow; but yet this is not so certain, but that a great many perish.

I saw a Black, with a short Poniard, go directly to the Bull, when he was in the height of his Fury, and between his Horns thrust it into the very seam of his Skull, which is a place very soft and easie to be pierced, but withal, very small to hit. This was one of the boldest and most dextrous blows that can be imagin'd. The Bull fell down dead upon the spot; and pre∣sently the Trumpets sounded, and several Spaniards ran with their Swords in their Hands, to cut in pieces the Beast that was no longer able to hurt them. When a Bull is kill'd, four Alguazils go out to fetch four Mules, which some Grooms, cloath'd in yellow, and Carnation-colour'd Satin, lead in. They are covered with Feathers and little silver Bells; they have sil∣ken Traces, with which they tye the Bull, and so draw him away; upon which the Trumpets and People make a prodigi∣ous noise: There were twenty baited the first day. There came out a furious one which very dangerously wounded Count Co∣nismark in his Leg, and yet the force of the blow did not light upon him, but upon his Horse, whom it burst; he quickly got off him, and though he is no Spaniard, yet he would not be excus'd from any of the Laws, It would have drawn pity from any body to see one of the finest Horses in the World in such a condition; he ran violently about the place, striking fire with his feet, and kill'd a Man with a blow upon his Head and Breast: The great Rayle was open'd for him, and he went out. As for the Count, as soon as he was wounded, a very fine Spanish Lady, who believ'd that he fought for her sake, stood forward in her Balcony, and with her Handkerchief made seve∣ral signs, in all likelihood to encourage him, but he did not seem to need being animated; and although he had lost abun∣dance of Blood, and was forc'd to lean upon one of his Foot∣men, who held him up, yet with great fierceness he advanc'd with his Sword in his Hand, made a shift to give a very great wound to the Bull on his Head; and then presently turning himself towards that side where this young Lady, for whom he fought, was, he kiss'd his Sword, and suffer'd himself to be carry'd away by his People half dead.

But you must not think that these sort of accidents interrupt the Feasts, 'tis said, that it will not end but by the King's Or∣der; so that when any Knight is wounded, the others accom∣pany him to the Bars, and immediately they return to fight. There was a Biscanier so bold, as to throw himself off his Horse upon the back of the Bull, held him by his Horns, and in spight of

all the endeavours of the Animal to throw him off, yet the Bis∣canier set upon him for above a quarter of an hour, and broke one of his Horns. If the Bulls defend themselves too long, and that the King would have others come out, (for fresh ones af∣ford more delight, because every one has his particular manner of fighting) they turn loose some English Dogs; these are not so big as is generally seen there, but 'tis a breed something like those the Spaniards carry'd into the Indies when they con∣quer'd them; they are small and low, but so strong, that when they once seize the Throat, you may sooner cut them in pieces than make them let go their hold. They are very fre∣quently kill'd, the Bull takes them upon his Horns, and tosses them up in the Air like Foot-balls; sometimes they hamstring the Bull with certain Irons made cross-wise, which they put at the end of a long Pole, and this they call Jaretar al toro.

There was another Cavallero under the Empenno, because in fighting, his Hat fell off; he did not alight, but drew his Sword, and pushing his Horse upon the Bull which expected him, gave him a wound in the Neck; but as it was a slight one, so it serv'd only to enrage him the more: He tore up the Earth with his Feet, he roar'd, and he leapt about like a Stag. I cannot well describe to you this Combat, nor the Acclamations of every body, the claping of hands, nor the multitude of Hand∣kerchiefs which are thrown up in the air, for an Expression of Admiration, some crying out, Victor, Victor, and others Ha Toro, Ha Toro, the more to excite the Bulls fury. Neither can I tell you my particular disturbance, and how my Heart fail'd me every time I saw these terrible Creatures ready to kill those brave Cavallero's: these things are equally impossible to me.

There was a Toledian, both young and handsome, which could not avoid being wounded by the horns of the Bull, who toss'd him up very high, he immediately died; there were two others mortally wounded, and four Horses either kill'd or desperately hurt, and yet every body said, it had not been a fine Baiting, because there was so little Blood shed; and to have been such, there should have been at the least, ten Men kill'd upon the Spot. It is hard to describe the Dexterity of the Cavalleros in fighting, and that of the Horses in avoiding the Bull. They'll turn sometimes an hour about him, and tho they be not a foot distant from him, yet he is not able to touch them, but when he does hit them, he wounds them cruelly. The King threw Fifteen Pistols to the Black that kill'd the Bull with his Ponyard, and he gave as much to one that had subdu'd another, and said, he would remember the Knights that had fought.

I observ'd a Castillian, who knew not how to defend himself, jump upon a Bull, as nimble as a bird. These Feasts are fine, great and magnificent; 'tis a noble Sight, and costs abundance; One cannot give a just Description of it, it must be seen to be well understood. But I assure you that all this did not please me; Do but think if a Man that is very dear to you, should be so rash to go and expose himself against a furious Beast, and that for your sake, (for generally that's the Motive) you see him brought back weltering in his Blood, and half dead, is it possible I say, for you or any one, to approve of such Actions and these Customs? Nay suppose one had no particular concern, would one desire to be present at such Sports, that cost the Lives of so many Men? For my part, I wonder that in a King∣dom, where their King bears the name of Catholick, there should be such barbarous Diversions permitted. I am satisfied that 'tis very ancient, because they derive it from the Moors; but yet methinks this, as well as divers other Customs which they have from those Infidels, ought to be entirely abolisht.

Don Ferdinand observing me very much disturb'd and uneasie during the Baiting, and taking notice, that I was sometimes as pale as death, I was so much frighted to see some of those kill'd which fought, said to me in smiling, what would you have done Madam, if you had seen what had happen'd some years ago? A Cavallero of worth, passionately lov'd a young Woman, who was only a Jeweller's Daughter, but a perfect Beauty, and was to have a great Estate. This Cavallero having understood, that the most furious Bulls of the Mountains were taken, and thinking it would be a very glorious Action to vanquish them, resolved to Taurize as they call it, and for that end desired leave of his Mistress. She was so surpriz'd at the bare proposal only which he made, that she swooned away, and by all that Power which he had given her over himself, she charged him not to think of it, as he valued his Life. But in spite of this Charge he believed he could not give a more ample proof of his Love, and therefore privately, caus'd all things necessary to be got rea∣dy in order thereunto. But as industrious as he was to hide his design from his Mistress, she was informed of it, and used all means to disswade him from it. In fine, the day of this Feast be∣ing come, he conjur'd her to be there, and told her, that her very presence would be sufficient to make him conquer, and to acquire a Glory, which would render him yet more worthy of her. Your Love, says she, is more ambitious than 'tis kind, and mine is more kind than 'tis ambitious. Go where you think Glory calls you, you have a mind I should be there, you will

fight before me; well, I do assure you, that I will be there, but yet perhaps my presence will afford you more matter of Trouble than Emulation. However he left her, and went to the Placa Mayor where there was already a mighty Assembly; but scarce had he begun to defend himself against the fierce Bull which assaulted him, when a Country Youth threw a dart at this Terrible Creature, which pierced him so deep, that it put him to a great deal of pain. He immediately left the Cavalero that was fighting him, and roaring ran directly after him that wounded him, this Youth thus frighted would have saved him∣self, when his Cap which cover'd his head fell off, and then the loveliest and the longest hair which could be seen appeared up∣on his shoulders, and this discovered it to be a Maid of about Fifteen or sixteen Years of Age. Fear had put her in such a Trembling, that she could neither run, nor any way avoid the Bull. He gave her a desperate push on the side, at the same instant her Lover knew that it was she, and was running to assist her. Good God! what a grief it was for him to see his dear Mistress in this sad Condition! Passion transported him, he no longer valued his Life, and grew more furious than the Bull, and performed things almost incredible. He was mor∣tally wounded in divers places. On this Day, certainly the People, thought the Baiting fine, they carried these two unfor∣tunate Lovers to her unhappy Father's House, they both desired to be in the same Chamber, and though they had but a little time to live, yet beg'd the Favour they might be married, ac∣cordingly they were married, and since they could not live together, yet at least were they buried together, in one and the same Grave. The Story has mightily increased the Aver∣sion I had already conceived against these sort of Feasts, and I told Don Ferdinand so, after I had thank'd him for his pains in relating it to me.

Hitherto I have said nothing to you concerning the Spanish Language, in which I am endeavouring to make some Pro∣gress. It pleases me extreamly, it is expressive, noble, and grave, Love finds it commodious for its work, and can play the fool prettily enough in it. The Courtiers speak more concisely than others, they make use of such abstracted Com∣parisons and Metaphors, that unless one is us'd to hear them, half their meaning is lost. I have learnt several Languages, or at least understand the first Rudiments of them, but yet in my mind, it is only our own which exceeds the Spanish.

I come just now from seeing Ten Gallies which are arriv'd, this is somewhat strange in a City that is Eighty Leagues from

the Sea, but these are Land-Gallies; for if there be Sea-horses and Dogs, why not Land ones? They are shap'd like a Chariot, but four times longer, and have six Wheels, three on a side, and do not go much slower than a Chariot, the upper part is round, and is very like a Gally, they are covered with Canvas, and may contain forty Persons; there one sleeps and dresses victuals, indeed 'tis a Moving-house, they put eighteen or twenty Horses to draw it, the Machine is so long that it can∣not be turn'd but in a field; they come usually from Gallicia and Manca, the country of the brave Don Quixot, they set out eight, ten or twelve in a Company, to be helpful to one ano∣ther in case of need; For when one overturns, it makes a great havock, and the best that can happen, is a broken Arm or Leg, there must be above a hundred to raise it up again. In it there is carried all sorts of Provisions, for the Country through which they pass is so very barren, that on Mountains which are fourscore Leagues broad, the biggest tree one meets with is a little wild Tyme, there's in't neither Inn nor Inn-keep∣ers, you sleep in the Gally, and 'tis a miserable Country for Travellers.

Monsieur Mollini the Popes Nuncio, consecrated the Patriarch of the Indies on Trinity Sunday, and the King was there. I saw him come in, he had a Black Suit and a gold coloured Silk Belt on, and little Pearls were set round the flowers, his hat was so broad which they never cock here, that the Brims laid upon his shoulders, and lookt ill. I observed, that during the Ceremony he eat of something which was held to him in a Pa∣per, they told me it was either Leeks or Shallots, of which he eats very often. I was too far off, to see him well, he did not return to Buenretiro, because of Corpus Christi-day, at which Ceremony he would assist. In coming out of the Church, I knew a French Gentleman whose Name is Juncas, he is of Bur∣deaux, where I saw him, I ask'd him how long he had been here: he told me but a little while, and that his first Business had been to have seen me, had he not been engag'd at Bayon, not to lose a minute's time, in the search of a very wicked Fel∣low, which was supposed to be hid at Madrid; That it was not the Curiosity to see the Patriarch of the Indies consecrated, which drew him to the Hieronimites, (otherwise the Daugh∣ters of the Conception) but that having desired to speak with one of the Nuns, he was told, that he could not see her till the King was gone. He added, that this was one of the handso∣mest Women in the World, and hath been the cause of a great unhappiness in the Family of Monsieur De Lande. I remember

to have seen her as I have gone by, and intreated him to tell me the matter. It is, says he, too long and melancholy a Mis∣chance to relate presently; but if you will see the young Nun I speak of, I am persuaded she'll not be unpleasant to you. I willingly accepted his Offer, because I have so often been told, that they have so much more wit in Monasteries, then elsewhere in the world. We went into a Parlour, which had three such ter∣rible Iron-doors with spikes, as made me wonder. How is this, said I? It has been told me, that the Nuns in this Coun∣try are very amorous, but I cannot be persuaded, that Love is bold enough to venture over these long Spikes, and through these little holes, where one must undoubtedly perish. You are deceived, Madam, cri'd Juncas, at the Appearances of things; if the Lady which is coming, can spare me so much time, I'll pre∣sently tell you, what I learnt of a friend of mine a Spaniard, the first Journey I made hither. But at the very instant, Donna Isidora came into the Parlour. I found her much handsomer, than I had fancy'd her in my own Mind to be. Monsieur De Juncas told her, that I was a French Lady which had a great mind to be acquainted with her, upon his report of her Merits. She thankt me in a very modest manner, and afterwards told us, that it was very true, that the Wretch after whom Enqui∣ry was made, had been lately at Madrid; but that she was certain he was not now there, and that he had even had the Im∣pudence to write to her by the hands of a Man where he lodg'd; that the Letter was brought to her after his Departure, and that she would not receive it. It seems to me, said I, inter∣rupting of her, that he could not be taken, supposing he were yet here. Sometimes, says Donna Isidora, Permission is ob∣tain'd from the King. There are certain Crimes for which there is no Sanctuary, and that is one of them. She fell a weeping, notwithstanding all her endeavours to hinder her tears, and added, that thanks be to Heaven, she could not re∣proach her self with any thing in the late Business, but yet she could not forbear grieving extreamly that she had been the cause of it. We talk'd together a good while longer, and I was as much charm'd with her Wit as with her Beauty. Af∣terwards I withdrew. I am absolutly yours, most dear Cousin, be throughly persuaded of it

From Madrid this 29 of May, 1679.

LETTER XI.

ONE must love you as mightily as I do Dear Cousin to re∣solve to write to you in a Season when the Weather is so excessive hot: Whatever has been told me, and whatever I could imagine of it, is nothing in comparison to what I now feel. To defend my self from the heat, I leave open all my Windows all night long, without fearing the Gallick Winds which criple a body. I sleep bare-head, I put my Hands and Feet in Snow, enough to kill one; but I think 'tis much at one to dye, as to be smother'd with heat, as they are here. 'Tis Mid-night before one feels the least breath of Air from the Western Briezes.

In going to take the Air, one is sufficiently puzled; for if the Glasses are open, one's chok'd with the Dust, of which the Streets are so full that one can hardly see, and although the Windows of the Houses are shut, the Dust finds a way through and spoils all Houshold Goods; so that what with the ugly smells in the Winter, and the dust in the Summer, all things of Silver, and every thing else is so tarnish'd and spoyl'd, that little can be kept handsom any considerable time: Notwith∣standing all care at present, ones face will be cover'd with sweat and dust, like those Wrestlers which are represented to us in a Ring.

I should now tell you that I have seen the Ceremony on Cor∣pus Christi-day, which is very solemnly kept here: There's a general Procession of all the Parishes and Monasteries, which are very numerous; the Streets thrô which the Holy Sacrament is to pass, are hung with the richest Tapistry in the World; for I do not only speak of that which belongs to the Crown which is there, but also of that which belongs to a thousand particu∣lar Persons which have most admirable Tapistry. All the Bal∣conies are then without their Lattices adorn'd with Carpets, rich Cushions, and Canopies: they hang Ticking cross the Streets to hinder the Sun from being troublesom, and they throw water upon it, to make the Air cooler: All the Streets are spread with Sand, well water'd, and fill'd with so great a quantity of Flowers, that one can hardly tread upon any thing else. The Repositories are extraordinary large, and adorn'd with the greatest splendor.

No Women go in the Procession: the King was there in a black Lute-string Taffety Suit, a Sholder-belt of blue Silk edg'd with white; his Sleeves were of white Taffety, embroider'd with Silk and Bugles; they were very long and open before: he had little Sleeves hanging down to his Waste, his Cloak was wrapt about his Arm, and he had on his Collar of Gold and precious Stones, at which there hung a little sheep in Diamonds: He had also Diamond Buckles at his Shooes and Garters, and a great Hat-band of the same, which shin'd like the Sun; he had like∣wise a knot which button'd up his Hatt, and at the bottom of that a Pearl which they call the Pereagrine, it is as big as the Russet Pear, and of the same shape; it is pretended to be the finest in Europe, and that both its colour and kind is in perfecti∣on. The whole Court without exception, follow'd the Holy Sacrament, the Councils walk'd after it without any Order or Precedency, as they happen'd to be, holding white Wax Candles in their hands; the King had one, and went foremost, next the Tabernacle where the Sacrament was. It is certainly one of the finest Ceremonies that can be seen. I observ'd that all the Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber had a great gold Key by their sides, it opens the King's Chamber, into which they can go when they will; it is as big as a Cellar-door Key: I there saw several Knights of Malta, who wore every one a Cross of Malta, made of Holland, and embroider'd upon their Cloaks; it was near two a Clock, and the Procession was not yet gone in; when it past by the Palace, they fir'd several Rockets, and other Inventions.

The King went to meet the Procession at St. Mary's, which is a Church near the Palace. Upon this day all the Ladies be∣gin to wear their Summer Garments, they make their Balco∣nies very fine, in which they have either several Baskets of Flowers, or Bottles fill'd with sweet Water, which they throw about whilst the Procession passes by; Commonly the three Com∣panies which guard the King, are new cloath'd. As soon as the Holy Sacrament is gone back to the Church, every body goes home to eat, that they may be at the Autos, which are certain kinds of Tragedies, upon Religious Subjects, and are od∣ly enough contriv'd and manag'd: They are acted either in the Court or Street of each President of a Council, to whom it is due. The King goes thither, and all the Persons of Quality re∣ceive Tickets over Night to go there; so that we were invited, and I was amaz'd to see them light up abundance of Flamboys, whilst the Sun beat full upon the Comedians Heads, and melted the Wax like Butter; they acted the most impertinent piece

that ever I saw in my days. This is the Subject of it:

The Knights of St. James are assembled, and our Lord comes and desires them to receive him into their Order; there are divers of them that are very willing to it, but the Seniors re∣present to the others, the wrong they should do themselves, if they should admit into their Society, a Person of ignoble Birth, that St. Joseph his Father was a poor Carpenter, and that the Holy Virgin wrought at her Needle: Our Lord with great impatience expects their Resolution, at last they determine with some unwillingness, to refuse him; but at the same time propose an expedient, which is, to institute on purpose for him, The Order de Christo, and with this every body is satisfied. This is the Order that is in Portugal, but yet these things are not done with a wicked design; no, they had rather dye than in the least to fail of the respect due to Religion. These Autos last for a Month; I am so weary of going to them, that I ex∣cuse my self as oft as I can: They use Sweetmeats and Water cool'd in Ice very much, and they have need of them, for the heat almost kill's one, and the dust choaks a body: I was ravish'd with Joy to meet Don Augustin Pacheco, and his Wife (of whom I have formerly told you) at the President d' Hazienda's House; they come thither, because they are related to the Pre∣sident: We were placed near one another, and when the Cere∣mony was over, we went to take the Air in the Prado, after the French Mode, that is Men and Women together in the same Coach. Don Frederick de Cardona was one; our Curtains were close drawn whilst there was a great many folks, because of our beautiful and young Spanish Women; but as we tarry'd later than others, the Nuncio, and Frederick Cornaro the Venetian Am∣bassador, caus'd their Coaches to drive up to ours, and talk't with us; when all on a sudden we saw a great Illumination all along the Walk, and at the same time appear'd sixty Cardinals upon Mules, in their Habits and red Caps; after them follow'd the Pope, he was carry'd upon a certain Machine all cover'd with a foot Carpet; he sat under a Canopy in a great Chair, and St. Peter's Keys laid upon a Cushion, with a Vessel full of holy Wa∣ter of Orange-flowers, with which he sprinkled every body. The show march'd on gravely; and when they were come to the end of the Prado, the Cardinals began to play a thou∣sand cunning tricks to make his Holiness merry; some threw their Hats upon the Trees, and standing directly under, they fell upon their Heads again; and others stood upright upon the Saddles on their Mules, and made 'em run as fast as they could. There was a vast number of People follow'd them; we ask'd

the Pope's Nuncio what this meant, and he assur'd us he under∣stood nothing of it; and that he did not like this sort of Mirth. He sent to enquire from whence the Holy Colledge came in that manner; and we understood it was the Bakers Holy-day, and that every year they us'd to make this fine shew. The Nuncio had a great mind to have disturb'd them with a Volly of Cudgels, and had already commanded his Attendants to begin the Fray; but we interceded in the behalf of these poor People, who had no other intention than to celebrate the Festival of their Saint. In the mean time, some that had over-heard the Orders which were given, and were Disturbers of the publick Peace, gave Information thereof to the Pope and Cardinals; this was enough to put all in confusion, every one escap'd as well as he could, and their fear made our Pleasure short liv'd. In France such Mascarades would not be suffer'd, but perhaps there are many things innocent in one Country, which would not be so in another.

My Kinswoman knowing how very civily I had been receiv'd by Don Augustin Pacheco, invited him to Supper at her House; I desir'd him to remember his promise of giving me a Relation of what he knew of the Indies, immediately I'll tell you, says he, concerning those they call the West-Indies, in which a part of America is compris'd.

In the Reign of Ferdinand King of Castile and Arrogon, Chri∣stopher Columbus a Genoway, discover'd this part of the World in the Year 1492. As the Spaniards were the first that found this fortunate Country, unknown to the Europeans, so King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel, had the Propriety of it by a Bull from Pope Alexander VI. He establish'd them and their Suc∣cessors, perpetual Vicars of the Holy See, over this vast Coun∣try; so that the Kings of Spain are both Spiritual and Temporal Lords, and nominate Bishops and other Ecclesiasticks, and re∣ceive Tenths from them. Their power there, is of a larger ex∣tent than in Spain, for you must know that America alone is one of the four Parts of the World, and that we possess more Land there, than all other Nations together besides. The Coun∣cil of the Indies which is establish't at Madrid, is one of the most considerable of the Kingdom, and there being so great a necessity of holding a very frequent Correspondence between Spain and the Indies, to send Orders to maintain the Court Authority, they were oblig'd to establish beside, a particular Chamber, which is compos'd of the eldest Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, and they are to take Cognizance of all things concerning the Revenues, and cause Expeditions by the Secretaries of the Council.

Besides this Chamber at Madrid, there's another at Siville, call'd the House of Contrataction, it is compos'd of several Counsellors both of the Robe and the Sword, with other ne∣cessary Officers. Those of the Sword, take Cognizance of things which concern the Fleet and the Galeons. The other Counsellors take Care of matters of Justice. Appeals from this Tribunal are made to the Council of the Indies at Madrid. There are Registers kept in the House of Contrataction at Se∣vile, in which are writ all the Merchandizes that are sent to the Indies, and all that come from thence, that so the King may not be cheated of his Customs; but this signifies little, the Merchants are so cunning, and those who keep the Accounts are so easily drawn to share with them, that the King is not a whit the better for them, and the Duty to him, which is only the fifth Part, is so ill paid, that he does not receive the fourth Part of what is due to him.

It is the Council of Madrid which proposes Subjects to the King to fill up the vacant Vice-Royalties of New-Spain and Peru, they are granted for five Years, and so are all other Places, of which the most considerable, are these following, viz. The Governour and Captain General, and President of the Royal Chancellary of St. Domingo in the Spanish Islands, the Gover∣nour and Captain General of the City of St. Christopher of the Havana, the Governour and Captain of War, of the City of St. James of Cuba, the Governour and Captain General of the City of St. John of Puerto Rigo, the Governour and Captain General of the City of St. Augustine, in the Province of Flori∣da, the Governour of the City of Ascention of the Island of Marguretta, the Governour and Captain General of the City of Cumana, Capital of New-Andalousia, the Vice-Roy, Gover∣nour and Captain General of New Spain, A President of the Royal Audience, who resides in the City of Mexico, the Go∣vernour and Captain General of the City of Merida, Capital of the Province of Yucatan, the President and Governour of the Royal Audience and Chancellery, which resides in the City of Gaudalaxara, captital of the Kingdom of Galatia; the Go∣vernour and Captain General of the City of Guadiana, capital of the Kingdom of New Biscay; the Governour Captain Gene∣ral and President of the Chancellery which resides in the City of Santiago, of the Province of Guatemela; the Goverour of the Province of Locnusco in the Strait of Guatemala; the Go∣vernour and Captain General of the City of Cornagua, of the Province of Honduras,; the Governour of the City of St. James of Lyon, capital of the Province of Nicaragua; the Governour

and Captain General of the City of Cartagena capital of the Province of Costa Riga; the Governour, Captain General and President of the Royal Chancellery, which resides in the City of Manila, in the Phillipine Islands; the Governour and Lieu∣tenants of the Forttesses De Ternate, and Governour and Ge∣neral of the Militia of the same Countrey; the Vice Roy, Go∣vernour, Captain General and President of the Audit of the City of Lima, More, eight Counsellers, four Alcades, two Ac∣cusators, a Protector of the Indies, four Reporters, three Porters and a Chaplin in the same City. A Governour of Chucuito, one of Zico, one of Ica, one of Delos Collagos, one of Guamanga, one of Santigo de Misaflores de Zara, one of St. Marco, one of A∣requipo, one of Truxillo; a Vice Roy of Castra; a Vice Roy of Michel y puerto de Blata; a Master of the Camp of the Strait of Puerto del Callao; the President De la Plata hath under him six Counsellors, an Accusator, two Reporters and two Porters; the Governour of the Province of Tucumanan; the Governour of the Province of St Croix; the Governour and Captain Ge∣neral of the Province of De la Plata; the Governour of the Province of Paraguay; the Governour of the Cittadel of the Imperial City De la Plata de Potosy; the Governour of St. Philip of Autrich, and of the Gold Mines; the Governour of the City of Paix; the chief Governour of the Mines of Potosy, the Governour, Captain General and President of the City of St. Foy; the Governour and Captain General of the Province of Castenaga; has under him a Lieutenant, a Captain and a Marechal de Campe; the Governour and Lieutenant of the Castle St. Matthias; the Governour and Captain General of the Province of St. Martha; the Governour of the Cittadel of St. Martha; the Governour of the Province Aentoja; the Governour of the Province of Popayan; the Governour De los Musos y Colinos; the Governour of the Province of Merida; the Governour of the City of Tunja; the Gover∣nour of the City of Tona Emalbague, and the People of the burning Land; the Governour of Quixos Zomoco Ecanela; the Governour of the City of Jane; the Governour of the City of Santigo de Quagaquil; the Governour of the City of Loja Zonnora, and of the Mines of Comura; the President, Go∣vernour and Captain General of the City of Ponama; the Go∣vernour of Veragua, has under him a Captain General, a Lieu∣tenant General, a Captain of the Companies of the Infantry, and a Captain of the Artillery, the Governour and Captain of the Castle of St. Philips, in the City of Puerto velo; the chief Governour of Puerto velo, and the Governour and Captain Ge∣neral of the Province of St. Martha of the River of Hacha,

and the Governour of the great Caxamarca.

I do not hear mention the Places of Judicature, nor the Be∣nefices, which are very numerous; But it must be observ'd, that all the Employments I have spoken of, are given either from three to three Years, or from five to five Years, that so one Man alone may not grow rich, whilst there are so many others that stand in need to partake of the King's Kindness.

In those Places where there is no Vice Roy, he that is Pre∣sident, is also Governour, and when a Vice Roy dies, the Pre∣sident of the Vice Royalty for the time being, takes the Govern∣ment upon him, till another Vice Roy is sent from Spain. It is his Catholick Majesty which gives those great Posts and the most considerable Governments. The Vice Roys fill up the les∣ser, and these Vice Roys make a shift very easily in five Years time to bring home two Millions of Crowns all charges paid, the Governours of the Principal Places, get in the same Com∣pass of time about five or six hundred thousand Crowns; none goes thither, but what grows rich, and this is so certain, that even the Fryers which are sent thither to preach the Faith, and convert the Indians, make such a profitable Mission, that they bring home every one of them, thirty or forty thousand Crowns. The King disposes of divers Pensions paid by the Vil∣lages of the Indies. And from these they draw from two to six thousand Crowns per Annum. And this is another way the King has to gratifie his Subjects.

The Philippine Islands which lie near the Kingdom of China, depend upon the King of Spain, the Trade there is in Silk: these Places cost him more to keep, then they bring him in.

The Castillians had their Reasons why they would not let a∣ny sort of Manufactures be set up in the Indies, nor any Stuffs made there, nor any of those things else, which are indispen∣sibly necessary. This Policy cause every thing to go from Eu∣rope, and make the Indians, who passionately love all the Com∣modities and Ornaments which come from thence freely to sa∣crifice their Silver to their Satisfaction: by this means, they are put out of a Capacity to grow rich, because they are forc'd at very dear rates to buy the least Trifle they want, and with which they amuse them.

The Flota consists of divers Vessels loden with rich Merchan∣dizes which are sent to the Indies, and there are other great Ships of War which are call'd Galleons, which the King sends to convoy them. These Men of War ought not to carry any Merchants Goods, but the Lucre of Gain tempts them against the express Prohibition of the King, and sometimes they are so

full laden, that if they should happen to be attack'd, they could not defend themselves. When these Vessels are ready to sail, the Dispatch which the Merchants obtain from the Council of the Indies at Madrid for leave to send them, cost for each of them, from three to six thousand Crowns, according to the bigness of the Vessel. It is easie to imagine, that since they give so much, they are sure of gaining a great deal more.

The Galleons go no further then Porto Velo, whither they bring all the Silver of Peru, the Flota leaves them at this Place, and continue their Voyage to New Spain. The Galleons sail from Sanlucar to Cartagene in six Weeks or two Months at most, they tarry there a little while, and in five or six Days they come back to Portovelo; it is a Town scituated on the Coast of America, the Air there is very unwholsom, and the Weather excessive hot. On the other side of the Isthmus some ten Leagues distance only, is the City of Panama, whether is brought from Peru a vast Quantity of Silver in Bars or Wedges, and divers Merchandizes which are convey'd by Land-carriage to Porto velo, where the Galleons are, and where there is kept one of the greatest Fairs in the World, for in less then forty or fifty Days there is sold of all sorts of European Goods to the value at least of twenty Millions of Crowns ready Money. Af∣ter the Fair is done, the Galleons return to Cartagena, at which place there's a considerable Trade for Indian Goods, and those of the Kingdom of St. Foy, as well as for those, from Mori∣genta: After this, they go to the Havana to take in necessary Provisions for this Voyage, and from thence they are common∣ly two Months in Sailing to Cadiz; But as to the Flotta, it stops at Porto Rico to refresh, and arrives at Vera Crux in five Weeks, there they unload their Merchandizes, which is after∣wards carry'd by Land fourscore Leagues beyond to the great City of Mexico, the Sale of them is quickly over, and the Flo∣ta parts afterwards to go to the Havana; but this must be past only in the Month of April or September, because of the North Winds. The Galleons are commonly Nine Months in their Voyage to Peru, and the Flota is thirteen or fourteen Months, some particular Persons go thither also at their own Charge, after they have obtained Leave from the King and have Re∣gistered themselves at the Contrataction at Sevile, these go to the Coasts of St. Domingo, Honduras, Caracas, and Buenos Ayres.

The Money which comes directly from the King from the In∣dies, must be brought in one Galleon, this Silver is deliver'd to one of the Masters of the Mint, who pays to the King every Voyage he makes, six thousand Crowns, and he keeps one per

Cent. Of all the Silver that goes through his Hands, which ari∣ses high. As to the Silver which belongs to particular Persons, that is brought in what Vessels they will choose; and it is the Captain that is responsible for it.

There's a certain Duty which is Call'd Avarie, and it is ta∣ken for all Goods Registred, and for all the Silver which is brought from the Indies. This Duty is so considerable, that it suffices to fit out the Galleons and the Flota for their Voyage, although the Charge amounts to nine Millions of Crowns; but that of the Flota is not so great.

He that the King chooses to be General of the Galleons, ad∣vances to him, fourscore or a hundred thousand Crowns which is repaid him in the Indies with great Interest. Every other Captain does also advance Money to the King proportionable to the bigness of the Vessel they command. There goes more∣over with the Galleons a Patacha, which leaves them in the Gulph Delas Yequas, she goes to the Isles of Margueritta to fish for Pearles, of which they pay to the King a fifth part, that is of all the Pearl they take, and afterwards she comes to Cartegena.

Within these few Years, there is discovered Seventy Leagues from Lima, some Mines which yield a vast Revenue, those of Peru, and all the others in the West Indies pay the King the fifth part, as well of the Gold, as the Silver and Emeraulds. There is at Potosi greater plenty of Mines than any where else, the Silver they get there is brought to Port D' Ariga, and from thence, it is sent to Callao. It is one of the Ports of Lima, whether the Galleons come to fetch it. The Kingdom of Peru yields every Year in Gold and Silver to the Value of eleven Mil∣lions of Crowns. From New Spain is brought five Millions of Crowns, besides Marchandizes, which are commonly, Emer∣aulds, Gold, Silver, Cochenil, Tobacco, Wool of Vigogne, Campecha Wood and Hydes.

It was a long while before they would suffer in New Spain any Workmen that wrought in Silk or Wool; there are some now, and this may do some hurt to the Trade of Stuffs which are sent from Europe, they are not allow'd to plant there any Olive Trees or Vines, that so the Oyl and Wine which is car∣ried thither may sell the better. The King has the Power in the Indies as well as Spain, to sell the Bull of the Crusada, which is a Licence to eat Flesh every Saturday, and to enjoy the Benefit of Indulgences.

The Indian Idolaters are not subject to the Inquisition in the Indies; that it is establish'd only against Hereticks and Jews.

No Strangers are suffered to go to the Indies, but if at any time some happen to go, there must be a special Permission obtain'd which is very rarely granted.

How is it possible for me, continued Don Augustine, to ex∣press to you the Beautifulness of the City of Mexico, the Church∣es, the Palaces, the Publick Places, the Riches, the Profusion, the Magnificence and the Pleasures, a City that is so happily scituated, that in all Seasons it enjoys a continual Spring, and where the Heats are not at all excessive, where they feel not the Severity of Winter. the Country is no less charming, the Flowers and the Fruits at all times equally loading the Trees. There you gather more than one Crop in a Year; the Lakes and Ponds are full of Fish, the Grounds are well stockt with Cattel, the Forests and Woods afford excellent Fowl and wild Beasts, the Earth seems to open her Bowels on purpose to give up the Gold she encloses, there are Mines or Rocks of precious Stones discover'd, and Pearl are there taken. Oh! said I, let us all go dwell in that Country. This Description Charms, but as 'tis a long Voyage, it may be convenient, if you please, Madam, said I, to Donna Tereza in smiling, to get our Supper before we go; I immediately took her by the hand, and we came into a Parlour, where I had provided the best Musicians, which are bad enough, and which in my Opi∣nion, have nothing to recommend them but their dearness. My Cook made us some Ragous afte the French way, which Donna Theresa found so excellent, that she desir'd I would let her have the Receipt how to do them. Don Augustin intreated me also, to let him have some of my Larding-Pins, of which really one may look all over Spain, and not find so much as one. We tarry'd very late together, for in this Season they set up till four or five a Clock in the Morning because of the heats, and that the best time is in the Night.

There are certain days in the year, that every body goes out to take the Air upon the Bridges which cross the River Mansanarez; but at present all Coaches are laid up, the Gravel and some little Brooks help to make it very cool and pleasant. The Horses endure a great deal in these Walks, for nothing can be more prejudicial to their Feet than the Flints upon which they continually tread. In certain places of this River they make a stand, and there remain till two or three a Clock in the Morning; there is very often a thousand Coaches: Some particular People bring Victuals to eat there, and others sing and play upon several Instruments; all this is very pleasant in a fine Night: There are some Persons which wash or bath

themselves, but indeed 'tis after an ugly manner. The Danish Ambassador's Lady did it lately; her People go a little before her, and dig a great hole in the Gravel, which presently fills it self with Water, into which the Lady comes and thrusts her self; you may imagine how pleasant such a Bath is, and yet this is the only way that can be made use of in this River.

You will not be sorry, perhaps, to know, that in making out ones Nobility here, it must be prov'd, that one is descended both by Father and Mother from Vijos Christianos, that is, from Ancient Christians. The blemish which they ought to fear is, their being allay'd to any Jewish or Moorish Family.

As the People of Biscay and Navarre were defended from the Invasion of the Barbarians by the height and Ruggedness of their Mountains, so they esteem themselves all Cavalleros, even to the meanest Water-bearer; for in Spain, the Children some∣times take their Mothers Name, if she's of a better Family than the Father. It is certain, that there are few Families en∣tire, and whose Name and Nobility has not been carry'd by an only Daughter and mixt with another Family: That of Velasco is not of this number, for they reckon up ten Connestables of Castilo successively from Father to Son. Here's one thing very singular, and that which is not allow'd of in any other Coun∣try; and that is, That Foundlings, or Children found by chance are reckon'd Noble, and bear the Title of Hidalgos, and enjoy all the Priviledges annext to the Nobility; but to this end, they must prove, that they were Foundlings, and were main∣tain'd and bred in the Hospital where such Children are kept.

There are in Spain some great Families which hold almost all their Estates by the Title of Mayorargo; and when it happens that all of the Name are dead, and that the next akin is a Male, though he be a natural Son, yet he shall Inherit; and for want of such, the eldest Domestick shall take the Name and the Arms of his Master, and inherit his Estate: And this is one reason why the younger Brothers of other Houses, as Noble and Illu∣strious, do not scorn to be Servants to these, and their hopes are pretty well grounded; for it often happens that Families are extinct, because the Spanish Women have fewer Children than the Women of other Countries.

There lately happen'd a very great misfortune to a young Woman of Quality called Donna Clora; she could not preserve her Heart against the Charms of Count de Castrillo, a Man of the Court, very witty and handsom; the Cavallero had the se∣cret to please her without designing it; he was ignorant of the Inclinations she had for him, and so did not improve his Happi∣ness.

And although the Father of this amiable Creature was absent, yet she did not enjoy the more Liberty, because her Brother, whose Name was Don Henriques, to whose care her Father had recommended her, continually watcht over her Actions and Behaviour; she durst not speak to him she lov'd, and this was a double Martyrdom, not to be able to make her Complaints, and to divide her Grief with him that caus'd it: But at last she resolv'd to write to him, and to find out some way that the Letter should come to his hands; but as this was a business of the highest consequence to her, so she was at a stand about the choice of a Confident; and here she stopt for some time, till at last she bethought her self of a Friend of hers, who had always testify'd abundance of kindness for her, and so with∣out further consideration, she writ a very moving Letter to the Count de Castrillo, and was going to her Friend to intreat him to get it deliver'd to this Cavallero, when she saw him pass close by her Chair; this sight of him encreas'd her desires to let him know her mind, and immediately taking this opportunity for her self, threw the Letter she had in her hand to him, at the same time feigning, that this was a Letter which he had gi∣ven to her as he went by; Know my Lord, says he, aloud with an angry look, That it is not to me you ought to address your self upon such a design as yours. Here, take the Letter, which I will not so much as open. The Count had too much Wit not to ap∣prehend presently the favourable intention of this fair one. You need not complain, Madam, says he to her, that I have not made use of your Advice; he quickly withdrew to read a Let∣ter which must needs give him abundance of Pleasure: by this means he was inform'd of Donna Clora's Intentions, and what he must do to see her. He omitted nothing, he became de∣sparately in Love, and thought himself, as he had reason, one of the happiest Cavalleros of Spain. They impatiently expected the return of her Father, that they might propose the Marriage to him, which in all likelyhood must have been very acceptable to him.

But notwithstanding all the Precautions that these young Lo∣vers took both certainly to fix and continue a Conversation, which was the Joy of their Life; yet the suspicious and watch∣ful Henriques discover'd their Intreague. He believed her Cri∣minal, and in the excess of his Rage, without signifying or ma∣king the least shew, he one Night went into the Chamber of the unfortunate Dona Clora, and as she was in a deep sleep, he strangl'd her in the most barbarous manner imaginable.

Nevertheless, though it was known, that he was the Author of so wicked an Action, yet he was not prosecuted, for he had too much Credit and Interest; and besides, this poor Gentle∣woman had no kindred but what was his, and they were un∣willing to encrease the Misfortunes of their Family, which were already but too great.

After this wicked Fact, Henriques feign'd a great fit of Devo∣tion; he appear'd no more in Publick, and had Mass said at his House, and saw very few People; for he was very apprehensive that Count Castrillo (who had not dissembl'd his Grief, but had let it visibly appear) would at last be reveng'd for his Mistress, for indeed he most carefully sought all Opportunities. At length, after having attempted all imaginable ways, he found out one which succeeded.

He disguis'd himself like an Aguador, that is, a Water-Bearer, these sort of People load an Ass with several great Pitchers, and so carry them about the City; they wear thick coarse Cloth, their Legs are naked, and their Shooes are either cut or slasht, or else they have Soals made fast with Strings. Our Lover thus disguis'd waited all day long leaning upon the side of a Spring∣well, whose waters he increas'd by his Tears; for this Well was just against the House where he had so often seen his dear and fair Clara, and there it was also, where the inhumane Henriques dwelt. As the Count kept his Eyes continually upon this House, he perceiv'd one of the Casements half open, and at the same time his Enemy to draw near it, he had a Looking-Glass in his Hand, in which he was looking himself. Immediately the cun∣ning Aquator threw some Cherry-stones at him, in a jesting way, and some of them having hit his Face, Don Henriques af∣fronted at the Insolence of a Man, which appear'd to him to be only a poor Aguador, and transported with the first motions of his Anger, came down alone to chastize him: But he was hard∣ly in the Street, when the Count discover'd himself, and draw∣ing his Sword, which for his purpose he kept hid, cry'd out, Traytor that thou art, think of defending thy Life. The surprize and the fright had so amaz'd Don Henriques, that he was only able to ask quarter; but he could not obtain it from this enra∣ged Lover, who came to revenge the Death of his Mistress up∣on him that had so cruelly murder'd her. This Count would have found it very hard to have escap'd, upon his doing such an Action just at the door of a Man of note, and that had abun∣dance of Servants; but in that very moment that all Don Hen∣riques People were sallying out upon the Count, happily for him, the Duke Duzeda came by with three of his Friends, they

immediately came out of their Coach, and rescued him so sea∣sonably, that he made his Escape, and we do not yet hear where he is; I am concern'd for him, because I know him, and that he is a very honest Man.

It is very common in this Country, to assassinate one for se∣veral Causes, and Custom even authorizes the Fact, for every angry Difference; for example, If one give an other a Box o'th' Ear, or strikes him on the Face with his Hat, his Handkerchief, or his Glove, or has wrong'd him, in calling him Drunkard, or lets drop any words that reflect on the Virtue of his Wife, these things I say must be no otherwise reveng'd than by Assassina∣tion; but they give this Reason, that after such Affronts, it would not be just for a Man to venture his Life in single Com∣bate upon equal terms, where the Offended might perish by the hand of the Aggressor. They'll keep a Revenge twenty Years together if they cannot sooner meet with a fit Occasion to exe∣cute it: and if they happen to die before they have got Satis∣faction, they leave their Children Inheritors of their Resent∣ments as well as of their Estates, and the best way for a Man that hath given any Affront to another, is for ever to forsake his Country. I was lately told of a considerable Man, that after he had liv'd twenty Years in the Indies, to avoid an ill turn from another to whom he had given some Offence, and having un∣derstood that not only he but his Son was dead, believ'd him∣self secure. He returns to Madrid, after he had taken care to change his Name that he might not be known; but all this was not able to save him, for the Grandson of him that thought himself abus'd, though he was but twelve Years old, caus'd this Person to be murder'd quickly after his return.

The Men that committed these horrid Actions are commonly hir'd from Valentia; It is a City in Spain, whose People are wicked to excess; there's not any Crime which they will not de∣liberately commit for Money; they wear Stillettos, and Fire Arms which go off without any noise. There are two sorts of these Stillettos, one about the length of a short Ponyard, but not thicker than a thick needle, and made of excellent Steel, square and sharp edg'd. This Instrument wounds mortally for entring very deep, and making no bigger an Orifice than an needle; no Blood comes out, nay hardly can one perceive the place where it entred, and so being impossible to dress it, they almost constantly die. The other sort is longer, and no thicker than the little finger, but so hard and strong that I have seen one of them at one blow struck throw a thick Walnut-Tree Table. These sort of Arms are forbidden to be carry'd in Spain, as

Bayonnets are in France; neither is it lawful to carry those Poc∣ket-Pistols which fire without noise; but yet notwithstanding the Prohibition, several Persons make use of them.

I have been told, that a Person of Quality thinking he had a just cause to destroy one of his Enemies, went to a Bandolero of Valentia, and gave him a Sum of Money to murder him, but afterwards he was reconciled to his Enemy; and being willing to use a good Conscience, he made it his first business to acquaint the Bandolero with what had past, that so he might have a care not to kill this Man. The Bandolero seeing his Service needless, offer'd to return the Money, but he that gave it, entreated him to keep it; Well, says he, I am a Man of Honour, I shall keep your Money, and I will kill your Man. The other earnestly begg'd him to do nothing, seeing they were now friends. Look you, says he to him, all that I can do, is to give you your choice, whe∣ther it shall be you or him, for to gain your Money honestly, there's a necessity I must kill one of you. And notwithstanding all the Entreaties of this Person, he persisted in his design, and execu∣ted it. It had been an easie matter to have seiz'd him, but there was too much danger in't; for those Bandoleros are so nu∣merous and united, that if any one of them should be executed, the Death of him is certainly and quickly reveng'd. These Wretches are never without a List of their wicked Actions they have committed, and count it an honour to them; and when any one would set them on work, they shew that, and ask, whether they desire them quickly dispatch'd, or to give them a languishing Wound. These are the most pernicious People in the Universe. Indeed if I should tell you all the Tragical Stories which I hear every day, you would grant that this Country is the very Theatre of the most horrid Scenes in the World. Love frequently furnishes the matter, either for its Satisfaction or Re∣venge. There is nothing that a Spaniard will not undertake, nor nothing that is above either his Courage or Compassion.

'Tis said, that Jealousie is their prevailing Passion, yet they do not pretend it so much out of Love, as Resentment and Pride; for they cannot bear to see another prefer'd before them, and every thing which contributes to affront them, makes them desparate; let these things be how they will, one thing is cer∣tainly true, that it is a most furious and barbarous Nation in this Affair. The Women keep not company with Men; but yet they very well understand how to write and appoint Meetings when they have a mind; notwithstanding the danger is great both for themselves, the Lover and the Messenger; but in spite of all that, by their Wit and their Money, they make a shift to deceive the most cunning Argus.

It is unaccountable that Men who put every thing in practice to satisfie their Revengeful Minds, and who are guilty of such abominable Actions, should even be scrupulously Religious, at the same time they are going to stab their Enemy. And that they may not fail in their Enterprize, they must forsooth, per∣form their nine days task of Devotion for the Souls in Purgatory, and recommend themselves to the Relicks they carry about them, which they often kiss. I would not be thought to fix this Character upon the whole Nation; it may be affirm'd that there's as good People as in any part of the World, and that they are endow'd with a mighty Greatness of Mind. I'll give you some Instances of this last, which perhaps though you'll look upon as Follies, for every thing has two handles.

The Connestable de Castille is for certain, one of the richest Lords of the Court in Lands; but as he has the same fault as others like him self, which is to be careless in looking after his Interest, so he is ill furnish'd with Money. The Pensions which the King allows him, as he is Doyen or Chief of the Coun∣cil of State, Connestable of Castille, and Grand Falconer, are so considerable, as to supply all his wants, but he is so haughty, that he will not receive any thing upon that Account. He gives these Reasons, That when a Subject has Estate enough to live upon, he ought not to be chargeable to his Prince, but ought to serve him, and esteem himself happy; that to be paid for what he does is mercenary and slavish.

The Duke d'Arcas, alias d'Avero, hath likewise another ob∣stinate humour; he pretends that the King of Portugal has u∣surp'd the Crown from his Family, and therefore when he speaks of him, he never calls him any thing, but Duke de Bra∣gance; in the mean while, this Man has forty thousand Crowns a year in Portugal, of which he does not enjoy a farthing, be∣cause he will not submit to kiss the King's hand, nor to do him homage.

The King of Portugal hath sent him word, that he will dis∣pense with his coming himself, provided he will send in his stead one of his Sons, either the eldest or the youngest, which he will, and that he will then let him receive his Rents; and moreover, will pay him all the Arrears, which amount to an immense Sum. The Duke d'Avero will not so much as hear it mention'd: He says, that seeing he has lost the Crown, it would be a shame for forty thousand Crowns a year, to submit to the Usurper; that the greater evil takes away the sense of the lesser; that the Glory the King would receive from his Homage, would exceed the profit he gets from his Revenue;

and that he would have cause to reproach him, for having done an honour to him which was not his due.

The last I reserve for you, is the Prince Destillano; he hath Places and Commissions to dispose of at the Contratraction in Sevile, to the value of fourscore thousand Livres a year. He had rather lose them, than so much as set his hand to the ne∣cessary dispatches, saying, It is not agreeble to the Generosity of such a Cavallero as he is, to trouble himself to sign his Name for so small a matter; for you must know, that these fourscore thousand Livers are not in one Article, it may be there is above thirty; and when his Secretary presents to him a dispatch or grant of a Place, worth four or five thousand Livres, he will refuse to sign it, and alledges his Quality, always saying, Esto es una Mineria, that is, it is but a Trifle. The King however is not so nice in the matter, for he fills up the Places for him, and receives the profit to himself.

You'll say now, that the Spaniards are Fools with this their fantastick Grandeur; and perhaps you are in the right, but for my part, and I think I know 'em pretty well, I am not of that Opinion; yet nevertheless I'll own, that whatever difference can be found in comparing the Spaniards and the French, it must be to our advantage; but it does not seem fit for me to med∣dle in determining the matter, for my Interest is too much concern'd to let me judge impartially; but yet I am perswaded, that there are very few rational Persons, who would not make the same Judgment.

There are fewer Strangers that come to Madrid, than to any City in the World, and they have reason; for unless they have somebody to procure them Lodging in some private House, they'll run the hazard of being very ill lodg'd, and the Spaniards are not very ready to offer their Houses to any body, because of their Wives, of whom they are extream jealous. I do not know, that in all this City, there's any more than two Inns, whereof at one of them, they eat after the French mode; and when these are full (which they are very quickly, being very little) one knows not what to do; add to this, That there's no conveniency for passing too and fro in the Town, Hackney, or hyr'd Coaches are scarce enough, but one may have as many Chairs as one will; yet it is seldom that Men are carry'd in them, unless they be very old or infirm. But after all, why should Strangers come to Madrid? That which is finest and the most amiable, is always hid, I mean the Women, there's no conversing with them; those Women that may be seen, are such dangerous Creatures for a Man's Health, that it must be a

great Curiosity indeed, that a Man can resolve to satisfie at so much risque; yet in spight of all this, the only Pleasure, and the sole Enjoyment of the Spaniards, is to contract some League; even Youths of Quality that are rich, begin at the Age of twelve or thirteen years to entertain a Concubine-Mi∣stress, which they call Amancebade, for whom they neglect their Studies, and make away with whatever they can catch up in their Father's House, but 'tis not long before those Creatures give them cause to repent of their Folly.

But that which is terrible is, That there are few Persons in this Country, either of one or t'other Sex, and even of those whose Quality distinguishes them, that are free from that cur∣sed Disease; their Children either bring it into the World with them from their Mother's Womb, or suck it from the Nurse; a Virgin may justly be suspected to have it, and they are hardly perswaded to be cur'd of it, they are so certain of falling again into the same Condition. But doubtless this Disease is not so dangerous in Spain as in other Countries, for they still preserve their Hair very fine, and their Teeth very good: At Court, and amongst the Women of the highest Quality, they discourse of it as they do of a Fever, or the Meagrim, and they all bear the Distemper patiently, without so much as troubling themselves one minute about it. As they know not but that the most ver∣tuous Women, and the youngest Child may have it, so they never let blood in the Arm, but always in the Foot; they'll let a Child three Weeks old blood in the Foot, and this is so con∣stant a Custom amongst them, that unless it be some very able Surgeon, they know not how to let blood in the Arm. I was indispos'd, and was forc'd to make use of the French Ambassa∣dor's valet de Chambre, to let me blood in the Arm. By all that I have told you, it is easie to judge, that this is the Nup∣tial present which a Spaniard makes to his Wife, and that though they marry, they do not quit their Mistresses, be they never so dangerous. Every time these Mistresses are let blood, their Gallants are oblig'd to give them a compleat new suit of Apparel; and yet you must observe they wear ten or twelve Petticoats at a time; so that this causes no ordinary Expence. The Marquess de Liche understanding that his Mistress was just let blood, and so could not tarry till the Tailor made her a suit which he intended for her, he sent her one that was just brought home for the Marchioness his Lady, who is extream beautiful. It is a common saying with him, That to be the happi∣est Man, he would only wish a Mistress as handsom as his Wife.

The great Lords which return very rich from their Govern∣ments (whether for the most part they go poor enough, and where they pillage and extort all they can, because they are but for five years time) do not lay out their Money when they come home, in the purchase of Lands; they keep it in their Chests, and as long as it lasts, they live at a great rate, for they think it is below 'em to improve their Money. Following this Method, it would be very hard for the greatest Treasure not to be quickly exhausted; but the future disturbs them but little, for every one of them hopes either for some Vice-Royalty, or some other Post, which will effectually repair all their ill Husbandry, and restore them to a good Condition: And it must be own'd that the King of Spain is capable both to satisfie the Ambition of his Subjects, and to reward their Services; and indeed, many of his Subjects fill up the Places of divers So∣vereign Princes, which were the most eminent Men of their Age.

The difference is very remarkable between those Sovereigns heretofore, and the Spaniards at present; it is less as to their Birth, than as to their Merit; for the Families of the great Lords are very Illustrious, there's many of them that are de∣scended from the Kings of Castille, Navarre, Arragon and Por∣tugal; but yet this does not hinder several of them (for I make an exception) from contradicting the vertue of their Ancestors; but then let's see, how these are educated: They do not study, neither have they any able Masters; as soon as they are design'd for the Sword, no further care is taken to teach them either Latin or History; but one would think they should at least be taught what belongs to their Art, such as the Mathematicks, to fence, and ride the Horse; but they do not so much as think of these Matters. Here are no Academies, nor Masters to teach such things; the young Men pass that time which they should employ for their Instruction, in a wretched Laziness, either in walking about, or courting some Lady; and yet in spight of all this, they are persuaded, that there are not any People in the World which deserve publick Admiration more than they do. They believe Madrid to be the very Center of all Glory and Happiness, of all Arts and Sciences, and of all Delights and Pleasures; in dying, they only wish their Children the enjoy∣ment of Paradise, and afterwards that of Madrid; by this means you see they exalt this City above Paradise, with so much satis∣faction do they live in't. And 'tis this which hinders them from visiting other Courts, and there acquiring that Politeness which they have not amongst themselves, and to which they are per∣fect

Strangers. And 'tis this also which makes them so eager to return home to Madrid, let them be where they will, whe∣ther they be sent by the King, or let them be there in what Rank or Station they will; let them be never so much honour'd, and heap up never so much Wealth, yet the love to their Coun∣try, and the Prepossession for that, hath such a power over them, as to make them renounce every thing; and they had rather choose to lead a mean poor Life, (so it be not observ'd) without any Train, Grandeur or Distinction, provided it be but at Madrid.

It is very seldom, that a Father lets his Son travel abroad, but keeps him at home, and suffers him to take up what Customs he pleases; you may easily believe, that generally these are none of the best; for there's a certain Age, when Youth aims at nothing else, but to gratifie their Appetite, and enjoy Pleasures. One entices and draws another, and that which ought to be severely reprov'd, is authoriz'd by the Example of those, on whom they depend. Add to this, That they make them marry, as one may say, as soon as they are out of the Cradle. At the Age of sixteen or seventeen years they turn in∣to the World a young Man with a Wife that is but a Child, and this at once makes him less capable to know his Duty, and puts him upon being more debauch'd, because he is his own Master under no controul: by this means, he passes his Life in a Chim∣ney-corner, like a Man in his decriped old Age; and because this gentle Sluggard is of an Illustrious Family, he must be cho∣sen to govern a People that must suffer through his Ignorance; but that which is yet worse, is, That such a Man taking himself for some great and knowing Person, acts only by his own head, without consulting or advising with any body, and so does every thing awkwardly and absurdly. The Wife, it may be, is not better stor'd with Wit and Parts; her mighty greatness, with which she prides her self, is the only thing that can make her be regarded; and thus Persons of the highest Capacity, must be subject to two Animals, which are made their Superiors.

But on the other hand, let us be just, and render to Cesar his due. It must be own'd, that when Heaven hath been so kind to a Spaniard, as to give him a good Education, and let him travel and see the World, he makes a better improvement than any body. Nature has been kinder to them than they are to themselves; they are born with more Wit than others; they have a great quickness of Mind joyn'd with great Solidity; they speak and deliver their words with ease, they have a great Me∣mory; their Style is near and concise, and they are quick of

Apprehension. It is easie to teach them whatever they have a mind to; they are perfect Masters in Politicks, and when there's a Necessity for't, they are temperate and laborious. Without question, several great Qualities may be found amongst them, such as Generosity, Secresie, Friendship, Bravery, and in a word, all those Endowments of Mind, which go to make up a perfect, good, and vertuous Man. And here methinks, I have a fair opportunity to conclude this Letter, and to beget in you an esteem of these People. I should not be sorry, if I could procure them this Happiness; for their Manners do not suit so ill with me, as with a great many others, who cry out against them, and condemn them, before they have either examin'd or known them. For my part, I must needs say, that there is here, both good and bad, as there is in all other parts of the World.

From Madrid this 27th of June, 1679.

LETTER XII.

HEre's a general rejoycing, since the arrival of the Mar∣quess de los Balbaces, who brought certain News that the most Christian King had granted Mademoisel to the King of Spain. He so impatiently expected these Tydings, that there was hardly an hour pass'd, that he did not ask if the Courrier was not come; and as soon as he knew it, he immediately went to hear Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha's Church. As the Ladies do not go thither, so they are to content to dress themselves very fine, and place themselves in their Windows. I chose this, and I thought I should have been both choak'd and blind∣ed, it was so excessive dusty. I saw the King in his Coach of green Oyl-cloth; he had but a small attendance, for some twen∣ty Halbardiers cloth'd in yellow with trust Breeches like the Pa∣ges, made up his Guard, marching before and behind him. The Courtiers Coaches indeed that accompany'd him, were so numerous that they could hardly be told; the People every where crowding, even to the tops of the Houses, cry'd out Viva el Roy, Deos le Bendiga, and several added, Viva el Reina nuestra Seinnora. There was not the least House or Street with∣out

its spread Tables; every body had their Garlick, Leeks and Onions in their hands, insomuch that they perfum'd the Air with them, and they were even debauch'd with drinking their Majesty's Health in Water: For dear Cousin, though I have al∣ready mentioned it to you, yet methinks I may repeat it here, That there never was People so temperate as these, especially in Wine; and they have so strange an abhorrence for those that are guilty of Intemperance, that by their Law, a Man that can be prov'd but once to have been drunk, is refus'd for being a Witness in any Court of Justice where he is offer'd, and after a sharp reproof is sent away. And if it happen, that one calls another Boracho, that is Drunkard, this Injury is sure to be re∣veng'd with Murther.

That Night the King was at Antocha; we illuminated all our Houses with great Flamboys of white Wax which they call Ha∣chas; they are longer than those that are us'd at Paris, to light the Coaches at night, but withal, they are a great deal dearer, not only because the Wax is brought at great Charges from o∣ther Parts of the World, but also because there is a prodigious quantity of it consum'd in Spain. And when they make Illu∣minations, they are not contented to set up four or six Flam∣boys, but they must put two in every Balcony, and two at each Window up to the highest Story; there are some Houses which thus require four or five hundred. Every where there were Bonefires made, and we went to the Palace to see a Masquerade of a hundred and fifty Lords which they said was to be there. I cannot imagine why they call this Diversion by that Name, for they were not at all maskt; commonly they choose the darkest Night. All the Courtiers are mounted upon their finest Horses, every Horse was covered with Silver Gauze and Hou∣sings embroider'd with Gold and Pearl. The Cavalleros were cloath'd in Black, with colour'd Taby Sleeves, embroider'd with Silk and Bugles; they wore little Hatts button'd up with Dia∣monds, and in them a Plume of Feathers, they had rich Scarfes and many Jewels; but with all this, their Black Cloaks and their ugly Collars strangely disfigure them. They ride a Horseback like the Turks and Moors, that is, as they call it a Genita, their Stirrups are so short that their knees are even with, and rest upon the Tops of the Horses shoulders. I cannot yet reconcile my Eyes to this Fashion; they say, that thus they can better raise and put themselves forth against any that assaults them. But to return to the Masquerade, they all met together at an appointed Place, which usually is at one of the Gates of the City. The Streets through which they were to go, were all strewed

with Sand, and on each side there was a kind of Chaffing dishes set upon Poles, which beside the white Wax Flamboys gave a great Light, there were also placed several very clear Lanthorns in Windows, which made a very fine Show. Every Cavallero had a great many Footmen, which were cloath'd in Cloath of Gold and Silver; they went by their Masters sides with Flamboys. The Masters marcht four in a rank very softly, each holding a Flamboy also; they went all over the City attended with Trumpets, Timbrels, Bagpipes and Flutes, and when they came to the Palace which was illuminated, and the Court co∣vered with Sand, they took several Turns, and run and pusht against one another with a Design to throw each other down with these tricks. Prince Alexander de Parma, who is of a prodigious bigness fell down, and the fall of him made as great a noise as the shooting of a moderate high-hill, they had much ado to carry him off, for he was grievously bruis'd with his Fall; there were several of them with their great Spectacles on, but particularly the Marquess D' Astorgas, who does not only wear them for gravity sake, but for need, for he is old; but yet for all that, he is frolicksom, he will be Meyor Domo to the young Queen, and he is a Grandee of Spain.

And now I speak of a Grandee of Spain, Don Fernand de Tolledo, told me t'other day a thing pleasant enough. His Father in Law, who is the Marquess De Palacios, lives at a horrid pro∣fuse rate, for it seems he is one of those profest Gallants of the Ladies of the Pallace, and to arrive to that, one must both have a great deal of Wit, and shew abundance of Magnificence, I mean a certain peculiar sort of Wit that's neat and refin'd, he must have choice Phrases and Expressions, and some ways and modes not common, he must understand how to write both in Prose and Verse, and that too better than another. In a word, one must both talk and do in this Pallace-Gallantry af∣ter quite another rate than is us'd in the City. But to return to the Marquess De Palacios. There was a publick Festival appointed by the King, this Marquess wanted Money to ap∣pear there, he is Lord of several Towns, it came into his head to go down post to them; assoon as he arriv'd, at the first, he caus'd Papers to be set up, That all those of that Town which desir'd to be made Grandees, should immediately come to him. There was not either Justice, Burgess or Tradesman, which was not presently fill'd with vehement Ambitious de∣sires for the Grandeza his House was crowded with all sorts of People, he agreed with them every one severally in private, and got as much as he could of them, and afterwards he made

them all be covered before him, and gave them Patents in Form just as the King does, when he makes any one a Grandee. His Invention succeeded two well in the first Town, not to practise it in the rest: He found amongst them the same Dis∣position to give him Money, that through his means they might be Grandees, with this trick, he got a considerable Sum, and away he comes, and makes a splendid Shew at Court. But as a Man is never without Enemies, so there were some Per∣sons that had a mind to make use of this pleasant Frolick to put him out of the King's Favour. His Majesty was told of it, and the Marquis justified himself well enough, in saying all those to whom he had granted permission to be covered before him, being born his Vassals, they ow'd more respect than to dare to take this liberty without his leave, and that therefore he had made them Grandees, as to himself. And after this the thing was only lookt upon as a merry jest.

This Marquess comes often to see us, and as he belong'd to the late Court, so Yesterday he told me, that a famous Astrologer being one day with the late King in the Terrass-walk of the Pallace, the King askt him the height of that Place, he gaz'd up into the Air, and nam'd a certain Height. The King pri∣ately order'd them to raise the Pavement of the Terrass about three or four fingers, and in the Night it was done. The next Morning he caus'd the Astrologer to come to him, and being up∣on the Terrass with him, says he to him, I spoke last night of the height you told me of this Walk, but there was some that maintain'd that you were mistaken, Sir, says he, I dare say, I was not mistaken; But consider it well says the King, and af∣terwards we'll him asham'd, which boasts himself to be a more knowing Man than you. Immediately he began again to make his Observations, the King saw him change colour, and seem to be at a great loss; but at last he drew nigh the King, and said, what I told your Majesty Yesterday was true, but to day I find, that either the Terrass is rais'd, or the Heavens are sunk down a little lower. The King smil'd, and told him the trick he had put upon him.

That I may give you an Account of other matters, I must tell you, that the King has in his Family three Persons which by way of Eminency are call'd, the great Officers, the Mayor Domo Mayor, the Sumiller of the Body, and the Master of the Horse. These three Places are thus distinguisht, the Mayor Do∣mo commands in the Pallace, the Business of the Sumiller of the Body, is in the King's Chamber, and the Master of the Horse, orders all things in every Place, except the Pallace.

After these come the Gentlemen of the Kings Bed-chamber, they wear at their Girdle for a mark of their Dignity, a gold∣en Key. There are three sorts of these Keys; the first, gives the Employment of the Gentleman of the Bed-chamber; the second, the Entrance with the Employment; and the third is call'd, Clavae Capona, which only gives Entrance into the Anti-chamber. The Number of these Gentlemen is great, there are Forty of those for Service, which take it in turns every day, and for the most part they are Grandees of Spain. The Mayor Domo, that is to say, the Steward in Ordinary, have the same Access as the Gentlmen of the Bed-chamber. The Persons of highest Quality fill up these Places, for the most part they are the second Sons of the Grandees, they wait in turns every Week, and when the High-Steward is absent, they are invest∣ed with his Power, these also introduce Foreign Ministers when they have Audience, there are eight of them, sometimes more, but seldom fewer.

The King hath three Companies for his Guards, but they have not any thing that agrees with one another. The Mar∣quess De Falces commands the Flemish or Burgundian Guard, it consists of a hundred Halbardiers, and although here, they call them the Yeomen of the Guard; yet they may be call'd the Life Guard; the German Guard consists of the same Number, Don Pedro D' Arragon is Captain of it, the Spanish Guard is also com∣pos'd of a hundred Halberdiers, and are commanded by the Count De los Arcos. He is likewise Captain of another Company of a hundred Spaniards, call'd the Guards of the Lancilla, and this never appears, but at great Ceremonies, and at the Funerals of Kings. The Affairs of the State are manag'd by a Chief Minister which they call Privado, he hath under him a Secretary of State, whose Office is in the Pallace. All Business that come to the King and the Minister, ought to pass directly through his hands, and as he dispatches also whatever the King orders, so he is call'd Secretario del despacho Ʋniversal.

The Council of State, and divers other Councils examine all matters, and the King or the Chief Minister, afterwards de∣termine them, there are a great many Counsellors: Here fol∣low the Names of those which at present compose the Coun∣cil of State, Viz. The Constable De Castile of the Family of the Valesaco's, is the President, the Duke D' Albe, the Duke De Medicina Celi, Don Pedro D' Arragon, the Admiral of Cast∣ile, the Marquess D' Astorgas, the Prince De Stillano, the Duke D' Ossona, the Count De Chinchon, Don Vincent Gouzaga, Prince De Guastalla, Don Lewis Portocarrero Cardinal Archbishop of

Tolledo, the Marquess De Liches, the Marquess De los Balbares Don Diego Sarmituto, Don Melchios Navarra, the Marquess De Losveler, the Marquess De Mansera, and the Duke D' Albur∣querque.

Besides This Council, which is the principal, there is that of the Inquisition of War, of the Orders of Arragon, of the In∣dies, of Italy, of Hazienda, of the Croisado, and of Flanders, there is also the Chamber of Castile, of the Alcaides de Corta, of the Contaduria, D' Aposento, Delos Bosques Reales, De Mil∣liones, and De Competancias. But do not think, dear Kinswo∣man, that the Salleries and Profits of those Places are small. For instance, The Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, make from eighteen to twenty thousand Crowns a Year of their Places. And here 'tis pertinent to tell you, that 'tis thought no Places are sold in this Countrey, at least it is not known; in in all appearace they are bestow'd upon Merit or Birth, but yet underhand, there are such considerable Presents made, that to get a Vice Royalty, they'll give Five thousand Pistols, and sometimes more. That which would be call'd Buying in ano∣ther Countrey, at Madrid is term'd giving a Regalio, that is, making a Present, and one is equivalent to the other, with this difference, that a Place, or a Government which one buys, is yours as long as you live, and sometimes passes by Inheritance to your Children, either by natural Right, or the Concession of the Prince; but in Spain, they enjoy a Place which cost them very dear, only three or five Years at most. It is easie to believe that those who advance so much, are very certain to reimburse themselves both Principal and Interest. From this Practice the People are horribly opprest, they have perpe∣tually upon them, either a new Vice Roy, or Governour, which comes from draining himself of all the ready-Money which he could either make of his own and sometimes of his Friends, to bribe the Court. Thus he comes hungry, and he has but a short time to enrich himself, and so the poor People are on all hands pillaged, without so much as being able to have their Com∣plaints heard. But it is yet quite another thing in the Indies, where Gold is so plentiful, and they are so far from the King and his Ministers. It is certain they bring from thence im∣mense Sums, as I think, I have already intimated to you, even the Religious as they call them, who are sent to preach there, return not without forty and fifty thousand Crowns, which they have heap'd up in four or five Years time; so notwith∣standing their Vow of Poverty, they find out the secret of grow∣ing rich; and during their Life they are suffer'd to enjoy the Fruit of their Mission.

The Monasteries here, have yet another piece of Craft, which commonly succeeds, when a Religieus Person or Fryer happens to be the only Son. If his Father is rich, they beg him to leave his Estate to the Convent, where his Son has ta∣ken the Habit, upon condition that he shall manage and en∣joy it whilst he lives, but after his Death that the Monastery shall inherit it, and put up Prayers and say Masses for the Fa∣ther and the Son. By this means there are profes'd Fryars which have ten thousand Crowns a Year, at their disposal. This Affluence in a Countrey where Reason has put little pow∣er over the Affections, does not always make them more ho∣ly; and if there are any that use it well, there are abundance which abuse it.

It is known, that every year there comes from the Indies, above five and thirty Millions of Crowns, but yet not a quarter part of this ever goes into the King of Spain's Coffers. These Treasures spread themselves over all Europe, the French, English, Dutch, and the Genoeses, draw away the best shares of it. Methinks, this does not suit with the refin'd Policy of the Spaniards, to waste their own Subjects in digging Gold out of the Mines, to let other Nations, with whom they are often at War, reap the Profit; but the natural Laziness which hin∣ders them from working, and to have at home Manufactures of their of their own, obliges them to have recourse to those, who can furnish their Countrey with the Merchandizes they want.

As Strangers dare not venture to go there, because it is upon no less penalty than hanging, so they contrive to send their effects in the Names of the Spanish Merchants, with whom they meet with all the Fidelity imaginable; and if the King would, he could not hinder Strangers from receiving what is properly theirs; for the Spaniards upon this occasion, had rather loose their Lives, than any wrong should come to ano∣ther. There's one thing remarkable, and that is, when the Flota comes to an Anchor at Cadiz, there are Men who make publick profession to assist in cheating the King of his Customs upon Silver and other Merchandizes. It is as much their Trade and Livelyhood, as for a Banker to deal in Money. They call them Metadors; and as much Knaves as they are towards the King, yet one must do them the right to say, they are not so to the private men which agree with them for a certain reward securely to lodge their Silver in such a place of the City as they shall desire. And this practice is so certain and safe, that one never hears of any that have violated their Trust: It

were easie to punish these men for the Frauds they are guilty of against the King, but there would be Inconveniencies to the prejudice of Trade, perhaps far greater, than the Punish∣ments would bring Advantage; so that the Government and Magistrates take no notice of what passes. There might also be an easie remedy found out to hinder the King from losing all upon this occasion; and that is, to abate the Duties a little, which indeed are very high, and so what is given to these Me∣tadors, and somewhat more, might be paid to the Cotratacti∣on, for naturally the Merchants do not love cheating, and are continually afraid of paying at once, what they have been sa∣ving for half a score Voyages; but 'tis the humour of the Spaniards, To have all or nothing, and very often they have no∣thing. As to Madrid, it is impossible to find there any great∣er Robbers and Cheats than the Magistrates and Officers them∣selves; these are the Men, that with Impunity appropriate to themselves the Kings Customs, and who cheat him after such a rate, that 'tis no wonder if he so often wants Money: but they are not satisfied with cheating their Sovereign, they must also abuse and pillage the People; and although the Laws of this Nation are not only very just, but equitable, yet no body seems to be sensible of them: Those very Persons into whose Hands they are put, and who are set on purpose to execute them, are the first that break and corrupt them.

If you'll but give Money to an Alcalde, or to an Alguazil, you may have the most innocent Person in the World arrested or seized, and then thrown into some nasty dark hole of a Prison, and there perish with hunger, without any proceeding or coming to a Tryal, and wthout any Order or Degree; and when the poor wretch is let out of Prison, he must not so much as think of doing himself right against this wicked Officer of Justice. This sort of People are generally much favour'd e∣very where, but here they are beyond all measure; and righteous Judges in this Country are more scarce than in any Country whatever.

Thieves, Murderers, Poysoners, and the greatest Criminals imaginable, remain safe and quiet at Madrid, provided they are not rich, for if they be, they are sure to be disturb'd for the sake of that.

They do not judge Criminal Matters above twice or thrice a year; it is with the greatest difficulty that they bring them∣selves to cause any Criminal to dye, who is, say they, a man like them, their Country-man, and the King's Subject; they send most either to the Mines, or to the Gallies, and when a∣ny

Wretch is condemned to be hang'd, he is carry'd upon an Ass, with his Face to the Tail; he is cloath'd in black, and a Scaffold is erected for him, that he may make a Speech to the People, who are all upon their Knees, and in Tears, beating themselves upon their Breasts: After he has spent what time he will in his Harangue, he is dispatch'd with a great deal of Gravity; and as these Examples of Justice are very rare, so they make a mighty impression upon the Spectators.

Notwithstanding the vast Riches, and the excessive haughti∣ness and Presumption of the great Lords, yet they obey the least Order of the King, with that exactness and Respect which cannot be sufficiently prais'd. Upon the first Command, they depart, they return, go to Prison, or into Banishment, with∣out murmuring. It is not possible to find a more perfect Sub∣mission and Obedience, nor a more sincere Love, than that of the Spaniards for their King. This Name is Sacred with them, and to bring them to whatever one has a mind, it is sufficient to say, The King Wills it; 'tis under his Name, that the poor People of both the Castilles are so horribly opprest with Taxes: the other Kingdoms or Provinces are not so loaded, but boast themselves for the most part, that they are a free People, and pay but what they have a mind to.

I have already hinted to you, dear Cousin, that in every thing they exactly follow the Politicks of Charles V. without considering that the difference of times makes a mighty altera∣tion in the Events of things, although they may seem to be alike, and in the same Circumstances; and that what with∣out the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign, would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so: but a vanity that is natural to them, hinders them from seeing, that Pro∣vidence sometimes permits Empires, as well as particular Fami∣lies, to have their Revolutions and Periods. The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People, and in the same Circumstances they ever were; but though I never knew their Ancestors, yet I dare say they deceive themselves.

But not to make any farther Reflexions, which perhaps are too serious and high for me, I will tell you, that here's a ge∣neral rejoycing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies. As 'tis not their humour here to treasure up Wealth, so this prodigious quantity of Silver, which comes all at a lump, is spread over all the World. One would think that these immense Summs cost nothing, and that it is Money which chance sent them. Hereupon the great Lords summon

their Creditors, and pay them with a profuseness, which yet without lying, has something in't that is both noble and very generous; for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural, as 'tis in this; and I must also add, that they are patient even to admiration. They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges, in which besides the Fatigues of War, they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn, and stinking Water for their Drink; and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water. I say, notwithstanding all this, and that they have been ex∣pos'd to the Severities of the Weather, were half naked, and had hard Lodging, yet in spight of all these things, they have been found more brave and couragious, than when they en∣joy'd Plenty and Prosperity. It is true, that that Temperance which is so natural to them, is a mighty help to them to en∣dure hunger when they are forc'd to it; they eat very little, and scarcely will they drink any Wine. The Custom they have of eating all alone, contributes something to make them so fru∣gal; for indeed, neither their Wives, nor their Children, ever eat with them. The Master has his Table to himself, and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet, after the Turkish and Moorish way. They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together, so that they are not guilty of a∣ny excess. Upon this account, it is their saying, That they only eat to live, whereas there are People, which only live to eat. Nevertheless, there are some rational People, which find this affectation too great; and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation, so they perpetually live at a distance, and as 'twere in Ceremony with one another, without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union, and produces that de∣sirable openness of Heart.

This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions, which they call Philosophy; it makes them singular, dull, fan∣tastick, melancholy and jealous; whereas if they govern'd them∣selves otherwise, there's nothing they would not be capable of, since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind, an excellent Memory, good Sense, a solid Judgment, and great Patience; than which, there needs no more to make a Man wise, to grow in Perfection, to be agreeable in Conversation, and to distin∣guish himself from the most polite Nation. But they are so far from being what naturally they might be, though at never so little pains, that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind; they neglect their most important business, and the advancement of their Fortunes. Provision for the fu∣ture,

gives them not the least disturbance; the only matter they are not indifferent in, is Jealousie; they improve that to the utmost, the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress. Their Passion of Love is always furious, and yet the Women please themselves in it; they say, they would not for all the mischief that may befall them, have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness; that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion, and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love. They leave nothing unattempted to be reveng'd of those they love, if they forsake them without cause; so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end. For in∣stance, not long since, a Woman of Quality, who had cause to complain of her Gallant, contriv'd to get him into a House where she commanded, and after she had sufficiently reproach'd him, against which he did but weakly defend himself, for he was guilty; she presented to him a Ponyard, and a Cup of poy∣son'd Chocolate, leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose: He did not waste one minute to move her pitty, he very well saw, that in this Place she was the strongest, so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop. After he had drunk it, says he to her, it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in't, for the Poy∣son made it very bitter; remember to do so the next time you prepare another. He was immediately seiz'd with Convul∣sions; it was very violent Poyson, and kill'd him in an hours time; and for all this Lady still lov'd him passionately, yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead.

The Venetian Ambassador, who is a very well accomplish'd Man, being lately at home, they brought him word, that a Lady cover'd with a Mantle desir'd to speak with him, and that she hid her self so close, they could not possibly see what she was; she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers, and a conside∣rable Attendance. He invited her to his Chamber of Audience, and she desir'd he would cause every body to go out. When she was alone with him, she unveil'd her self, and appear'd to him extream handsom. I am of an Illustrious Family, says she to him, my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman; I have despis'd all the Laws of Decency, in Favour of that Passion I have for you; I came to declare it to you, my Lord, and to tell you, that I must needs remain here this Night. From such an impudent Speech, the Ambassador could not in the least doubt, that this was some Tilt that had borrow'd a great Name, to draw him into some Snare: but yet with abundance of kindness, he told her, that

till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republick, that he could wish he were not an Ambassa∣dor, that so he might embrace the Favour she offer'd him; but that being in such a Station, there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality, that this might bring him into great trouble, and therefore beg'd her that she would withdraw. Immediately she was like a Fury, and after she had revil'd and reproach'd him, she drew out a Stilletto, and run upon him to have stab'd him. He easily prevented her, and having call'd one of his Gentlemen, bid him give five or six Pistols to this Woman. She so little de∣serv'd this Generosity, and it so appeas'd her, that she really told him, she was one of those Creatures he took her for, and that the reason why she had been so desperate, was, that the Gentlemen Ushers, who waited for her below, were her Gal∣lants, and would have broke her bones if she had made no ad∣vantage of the Plot they had laid; and that besides, she was to pay for the Equipage she came in, which was hir'd purposely for this design, and that she had much rather have dy'd, than to have endur'd all those Abuses. The Ambassador was so taken with her pleasant Confession, that he caus'd ten Pistols more to be given her; for, says he to her, since so many honest Folks must share with you, your part will be too small. She succeeded so well here, that she went directly to the French Embassadors; but she was not so courteously receiv'd there: For upon the first Apprehension of her Design, she and her Attendance escapt very narrowly of being entertain'd with the Strapado. He gave her not a Sons, happy was she that got out as she came in, for he had an aversion for all these Creatures.

This Morning we tarried a while in the Placa Mayor, for an Answer of a Message my Kinswoman had sent to a Gentleman that dwelt there. In this Place Fish is sold, and there was a Woman which had some little bits of Salmon to sell, which she said was fresh; she made a horrid noise in crying it, and in calling Customers to buy it, at last comes a Shooemaker, which I knew for such, because she call'd him Sinior Capatcro; he ask her for a Pound of her Salmon (and by the way, you must ob∣serve, that every thing here is bought by the pound, even Wood and Charcoal) says she to him, You do not enquire after the price, because you think 'tis cheap, but do not deceive your self, I assure you, I must have a Crown for every pound. The Shoomaker vext that she questioned his thoughts and ability, with an angry tone said to her, had it been very cheap, I would have had but one pound, but since 'tis dear, I'll have three, and im∣mediately

he gives her three Crowns, and then thrusting down his little Hat (for you must know that the Tradesmen wear them as narrow as the People of Quality wear them broad, and turning up his Mustachios by way of Rodamentade, he rais'd the point of his formidable Sword almost to the top of his shoul∣der, and haughtily lookt at us, having well observ'd that we took notice of him and overheard his Discourse and were Stran∣gers; but the pleasantness of the thing lies here, perhaps these three Crowns was all that ever this vain-glorious Fool had in the World, that this was his whole Weeks profit, and that to morrow, himself, his Wife and poor Children, would have a more severe Fast, than with Bread and Water; but such is the vain humour of these People here; nay there are some of them which will take the legs of a Capon, and will let them hang down under their Cloaks, that they may look as if they really had a Capon, whilst they have nothing but the Legs and Feet.

You cannot see a Joyner, a Sadler, or other sort of Shop∣keeper, without his Velvet and Sattin Suit like the Kings, with his long Rapier and Dagger, and his Guattar hung up in his Shop. They work as little as ever they can, for I have more than once told you, that they are naturally lazy. Indeed no∣thing but over-ruling Necessity drives them to do any thing at all, and then they work upon Sundays and other Festivals, without any scruple, as well as upon any other Day; and afterwards they carry their Goods abroad. If 'tis a Shoomaker and he has two Prentices, he takes them both with him, and each of them carry a Shooe, nay if he has three, they must all go along with him, and 'tis with much ado, that he'll stoop to try the Shooes he made; when he has done, he goes and sits him down in the Sun (which is call'd the Spaniard's Fire) with a Company of such idle Fellows as himself, and there with a sovereign Authority they determine matters of State, and settle the Interest of Prin∣ces; very often they fall out about them, some one of them that takes himself to be a more able Politician than the rest, will have them yield to his Judgment, but another as conceited as himself will not submit, and so they fall together by the Ears without Mercy. I was two days ago to see the Danish Embas∣sador's Lady, and there was brought in thither a poor Wretch which was just then wounded in the Street; he was a Coster∣monger, and it seems had maintain'd that the Grand Senior would not be reckoned a cunning Politician if he did not cause his Brother to be strangled; another to whom that young Prince was not so displeasing, stood up in his defence, and thereupon these two fell a fighting; but after all, to give them their due,

all these People talk of Government and Politicks with a great deal of Judgment, and give good Reasons for what they say.

Here is in this City several Houses which are a sort of Acade∣mies, where People meets some to Play, and others for Conver∣sation. They play there with great honesty, and let them lose what Sum they will upon Honour, they never fail to pay it in twenty four hours. If there should be any failure, their Ho∣nour and Reputation is for ever lost. No Reason whatsoever will be admitted against the necessity of paying in that time. They play there very high and very fairly, without noise or shewing the least vexation or concern: If they win, it is the Cu∣stom to give the Barato; this I think is also us'd in Italy, that is to say, you give Money to those that are present, to some more to others less, and this whether you know them or no. He to whom you present the Barato must never refuse it, let him be a hundred times richer and better Quality than the Donour, nay one may demand it of a Gamester that is winning, and he'll not deny to give it. There are People that have no other Subsistance than this; but yet this is no good Custom, for though a Man does win, yet sometimes he hardly carries any thing of his gains away with him, and if he begins to play again, he often loses his own.

Further, if a Man is found to have cheated, he has as good be∣times to forsake all Company; for no honest Person will have any thing to do with him, and if he is taken in the fact, he may think himself happy if he comes off with some Cuchillades, that is, some Cuts, but not Thrusts with a Sword.

As to the Conversation in these Academies, there's of it that is very ingenious, and very knowing Persons that frequent them; for in a word, they are here just as in other Places, and there are some that write very fine things. What they call Novels seem to me to be of a Stile, and to have an Air that charms; they never advance any thing but what's probable, and the Sub∣jects they take is so well manag'd, and their Narration so con∣cise and plain, neither mean nor lofty, that one must needs grant they have a Genius, which surpasses all others, in these sort of pieces. I will endeavour to get some of this kind, and will translate and send them to you, that so you may judge of them your self. As I have not capacity enough to speak of things which treat of more sublime matters, so shall I say no∣thing of them till I have been inform'd by those that are com∣petent Judges, and then I shall only pretend to be their Eccho. But after all I must needs say, that I think them extravagant in their Elogies, and that in them they keep not near to probabi∣lity, their Imagination, which is very lively and active, some∣times

runs too fast. I was t'other day reading in a Book, where speaking of Philip the VI. the Author said, that his Vertues and great Qualities were so many, that there was not Paper enough in the World to write them down; that a common Pen was not worthy to describe such divine things, and therefore they de∣serv'd to be writ by the Rays of the Sun upon the surface of the Heavens. You'll grant me that this is really losing a Mans self in the Clouds, and that with endeavouring to exalt his Hero, our poor Author falls and breaks his own neck. Their Books are very ill printed, rheir Paper is not white, and they are very ill bound, being cover'd with Parchment or Sheep-skin Leather.

I must not forget to tell you one thing, and 'tis very material, and that is the Policy of the Spaniards, which perswades them rather to be at the charge of a hundred false Informations, than to neglect the Opportunity of receiving one true Advice: nei∣ther the distance of the Country from whence they come, nor their Agents, are suspected by them, they will know every thing and liberally recompense those that serve them, nay they'll hardly tarry till the Service is accepted, before they will reward them. You cannot believe how much advantage this Maxim has gain'd them, they have been sometimes taken for Fools, but that has not dis∣couraged them, and in the end they always had what they in∣tended. It is likewise true, that though they have but very slender ground to beg a favour of the King, yet provided they are not disheartned with Repulses, but pursue their first Design with Perseverance, sooner or later they obtain what they wisht for. The Ministers of State think 'tis not suitable to the Grandeur of so mighty a Monarch to refuse a small matter; and tho there's but little Justice in pretending to a favour which one has not de∣served by some Service, yet if it is sued for without intermission, it is always obtain'd. I see Examples of it every day.

I have not yet told you, dear Cousin, that upon my Arrival here, all the Ladies did me the Honour to visit me first. It is the Custom here to prevent Strangers, when once they know they are of Quality and their good Conduct, concerning both which they are very nice. When I return'd them their Visit, every one made me a Present; sometimes in one House I re∣ceiv'd a Dozen, for even the Children of four Years old will treat you. I was presented with great Baskets of gilt Silver, a∣dorn'd with Corral curiously wrought in Flowers; these are made at Naples and Millan: I had also Amber Boxes set with Gold, ennammell'd and full of Pastils; divers presented me with Gloves and with Silk-Stockings and Garters in abundance; but these Gloves are singular, in that they are as short as the

Mens, for the Women wear their Sleeves down to their Wrists, the Fingers are so long that they look as if they were nothing else, and are ridiculous: The Stockings are made of Polo, that is raw Silk; they are made so short and so little in the Foot, that I have seen several Babies that they would not fit; the Garters are of a broad Ribbond, made very light and thin, like those our Peasants give at their Weddings; they are trim'd at each end with some English Thread Lace. They presented me also with several Cups of that Mineral Earth, and a thousand other things of this kind. If ever I go from hence, and make another Journey hither, it will be my turn to present: But alass! any thing pleases them, Needles, Pins, a little Ribbond, but above all, any thing made of their false Stones ravishes them with Joy; they that have so many that are right and so excel∣lent, yet wear a prodigious quantity of these false ones, which in reality are nothing neither, but bitts of Glass sett, and just like those our Chimney-sweepers sell to our Provincials, who never saw more than their Curate and their Flock. The Ladies of the greatest Quality are loaded with these false Stones, which they buy at dear rates; and when I askt them why they were so fond of these conterfeit Diamonds, they told me it was because they could have of them as big as they desir'd. And indeed they have of them in their Pendants, as big as an Egg, and all these come to them either from France or Italy; for as I have told you, few things are made at Madrid, Idleness reigns too much there.

There's no good Painters in this City, the greatest part of those that draw, are not of this Country; they are either Flem∣mings, Italians or French, which come and settle here; but yet they do not grow rich, for Money does not come and move in the circle of Trade. For my part, I must needs say, I never saw less stirring. My Kinswoman receives pretty considerable Sums all in Quartos; it is Copper Money, and as nasty as our Doubles; but as bad as 'tis, yet it com•••• ••ut of the Royal Trea∣sure; it is deliver'd by Weight (for how is't possible to count such sorry stuff?) and Men bring it upon their backs in great matted Baskets; when these sort of Payments come, the whole House is employ'd for eight days together in taking an Account of these Quartos, in three or four thousand Crowns, there's not a hundred Pistols, either in Gold or Silver.

They have here great numbers of Slaves, which are bought and sold at great rates, these are Moors and Turks; there are some of them worth four or five hundred Crowns; heretofore they had power of Life and Death over them, a Patron might

have killed his Slave as he might have kill'd a Dog; but it was thought that these Barbarities did not agree with the Maxims of the Christian Religion, and now that Practice is forbid; but yet they beat them till they cripple them, without ever being call'd to account for't. It's true, there are but few Masters that are thus severe; and if a Man happen to love his female Slave, and she grants his desires, she becomes immediately free. As to the other Domesticks, it would be somewhat dangerous to use them ill; they pretend for the most part, to be of as good Families as the Masters they serve; and if they should be a∣bus'd, they would be in a capacity to revenge themselves, either by Treacherously Murdering, or Poysoning of them; there are many Examples of this, they say, that a Man ought not to in∣sult over them, because they are poor, that though they are reduced to serve, yet they have not renounc'd their Honour; and that they should forfeit it, if they should take blows from any body whatever.

The Beggars are even proud, and when they ask an Alms, it is in an imperious and domineering way; if one refuses them, it must be done civilly, in saying to them, Cavallero, Per∣done, usted, no tenga moneda; that is, Pardon me Cavallero, I have no Money. If you give them a rough Denial, they'll be∣gin to argue with you, and undertake to prove to you, that that you do not deserve that Estate God has blest you with, and will never let you alone; but if one speaks courteously to them, they seem well enough content and desist.

The Spaniards are naturally gentle and kind; they marry their Slaves, and if it be with another Slave, the Children they have are not free, but like their Fathers, are subject to the Pa∣tron; but if these Children marry, their Issue shall not be Slaves. And so it is, if a Woman Slave marry a Free-man, their Chil∣dren follow the Condition of the Father. One is mighty well serv'd by these unhappy Wretches; they are far more diligent, laborious and humble than other Servants; there are few of them that will change their Religion. I have one that is not above nine years old; she is as black as Jett, and would be reckon'd in her own Country a wonderful Beauty, for her Nose is quite flat, her Lips prodigiously thick, her Eyes of a white and red colour, and her Teeth admirable, in Europe as well as in Africa. She understands not a word of any other Language than her own; her Name is Zayde, we have got her baptized; this young Christian has been so us'd to throw off her white Mantle, and to be quite naked when she was expos'd to sale, that I have had much ado to hinder her from doing so now;

and t'other day, when we had a great deal of Company, I sent for her; and truly Mrs. Zayde was pleas'd to appear before them all with her little black Body as naked as she was born. I am resolved to have her whipt, to make her know that this sort of fashion does not please me, for there is no other way to make her understand. Those that sold her to me, told me she was a Girl of Quality, and the poor Child will come often and fall down on her Knees before me, hold her hands together, cry, and point towards her Country; I would willingly send her thither, if she could there be a Christian; but this impossibility obliges me to keep her. I would fain understand her, for I be∣lieve she is witty, all her Actions shew it; she dances after her fashion, and 'tis so pleasantly, that she makes us very merry. I make her wear white Patches, with which she is mightily taken. She is drest as they are at Moroco, that is, with a short Gown almost without any plights, great Shift-sleeves of fine Cloth, strip'd with different colours, like those of our Bohemians or Gypsies; a pair of Stays which are only made of a slip of Crim∣son Velvet with a gold ground, and are made fast at the sides with silver Buckles and Buttons, and a Mantle of very fine white woollen stuff, very large and long, in which she wraps her self, and with one corner of it covers her Head. This dress is handsome enough; her short Hair, which looks like Wool, is cut in several places, on each side like a Half-moon, on the the Crown a Circle, and before a Heart; she cost me twenty Pistols, my Daughter hath made her Governess of her Marmo∣sett; it is the little Monkey which the Arch-bishop of Burgos presented to her. I do assure you, that Zayde and the Marmo∣sett are well met, and understand one another very well.

But to come to other things, here's arriv'd a Man which has been fetch'd from the farthest parts of Galicia; he is such a Saint, that he has done many Miracles, as 'tis pretended. The Marchioness de Los Velez, heretofore Governess of the King, was like to dye, and she sent to have him come in all haste, but they were so long upon the Journey, that she was well again before he came. It was known what day he would arrive, and while she was then expecting him, Don Fernand de Tolleda, who is her Nephew, and had not seen her since his return from Flanders, because of her having been sick; knowing that she was then much better, happen'd to go to her House much about the time the Saint of Galitia was to be there. The Marchioness's People seeing him, and not knowing him at all, (for he had been absent several years) without considering that there were few Men of his Age and Looks so happy as to work Miracles,

concluded, at first sight, that he was the Saint: immediately they threw open the great door, and rung the Bell for the sig∣nal, as the Marchioness had order'd them; all the Duennas and the Maids came to receive him with every one a Wax-Candle in her hand; several of them fell upon their Knees, and would not let him stir till he had given them his blessing. He thought they made a fool of him, to give him such a reception; he knew not whether he was bewitch'd, or whether he dreamt; and do what he could, he could not perswade himself that all this was real; it was to no purpose to talk to them, they mind∣ed him not at all, the noise and the crowd was so great; they brought their Beads to touch him, and those that were far off him, threw them at his Head, with a hundred Medals fasten'd to them. The most zealous began to cut his Cloak and his Cloaths; and now his fear began to be very great, lest through a desire to multiply his Relicks, they did not cut him to pieces. The Marchioness de Los Veloz, who was carried between four in a great Elbow-Chair, came to meet the Holy Man: and truly when she perceiv'd the mistake, and saw it was her Nephew, she fell a laughing so loud and so long, that she far exceeded the strength every body thought she had. When he came from her House, he came to see us, all torn, and just as the devout People had left him.

I should tell you, that all is mighty private and retir'd in this Court; but here's the way and manner how some particular Persons live: In the Morning as soon as they are up, they drink Water cool'd with Ice, and presently after Chocolate; when Dinner-time is come, the Master sits down to Table, his Wife and Children, as I have already observ'd, eat upon the Floor near the Table; this is not done out of respect, as they tell me, but the Woman cannot sit upon a Chair, she is not accustomed to it; and there are several ancient Spanish Wo∣men which never sat upon one in their whole Life: they make a light meal, for they eat little flesh; the best of their food are Pigeons, Pheasants, and their Olio's which are excellent; but the greatest Lord has not brought to his Table above two Pi∣geons, and some very bad Ragou, full of Garlick and Pepper; and after that some Fennel and a little Fruit: when this little Dinner is over, every one in the House undress themselves, and lye down upon their Beds, upon which they lay Spanish Lea∣ther-Skins for coolness: at this time you shall not find a soul in the Streets; the Shops are shut, all Trade ceas'd, and it looks as if every body were dead. At two a Clock in the Winter, and at four in the Summer, they begin to dress themselves a∣gain,

then eat Sweet-meats, drink either some Chocolate, or Waters cool'd in Ice, and afterwards every body goes where they think fit; and indeed they tarry out till eleven or twelve a Clock at Night, I speak of People that live regularly. Then the Husband and Wife go to Bed, a great Table-Cloth is spread all over the Bed, and each fastens it under their Chin; the He and She Dwarfs serve up Supper, which is as frugal as the Din∣ner, for it is either a Pheasant Hen made into a Ragou, or some Pastry bus'ness, which burns the Mouth, it is so excessively pepper'd. The Lady drinks her belly full of Water, and the Gentleman very sparingly of the Wine, and when Supper is ended, each goes to sleep as well as they can.

The unmarry'd, or those who observe but few rules with their Wives, after they have been taking the Air in the Prado, where in Summer they go half naked in their Coaches; I mean when 'tis dark they get a light Supper, mount their Horses, and take a Foot-man behind them, they do this that they may not lose him; for going in the darkest Night through so many Streets very quick, how should a Foot-man be able to turn and wind, and follow his Master? But they are also afraid of being assault∣ed behind, the Footman having no other care than to look a∣bout him, is as it were the Sentinel, and is ready to defend his Master. There may be some which will do this, but most of them in such cases run away, for they are not stout. This no∣cturnal Ramble is upon the Ladies account, they then visit them, and to gain an Empire, they would not neglest that op∣portunity. They talk to them through the Lattice of their Windows, sometimes they go into their Gardens, and when they can into their Chambers. Their Passion is so violent, that they'll look the greatest danger in the face; they'll go to the very place where the Husband sleeps, and I have been told that they'll see one another years together, without daring to speak one word, for fear of being heard. They are ignorant in France what 'tis to love at the rate these People are said to love. And not to mention the cares, the earnest desires, the nicety, and the devoting of themselves up even to death, (for the Husband and the Relations give no quarter) that which I admire, is their Fidelity and Secresie. It is never known, that a Cavallero boasts of having receiv'd Favours from a Lady; they speak of their Mistresses with so much respect and value, as if they were their Sovereigns. And on the other hand, these Ladies never desire to oblige any other than their Gallants, they are entirely taken up with him; and although they cannot see him in the day-time, yet they have opportunity to employ several hours

about him, either in writing to, or speaking of him with some she Friend who is privy to the Intreague; or else in waiting all the day long, and looking through their Lattices to see him go by. In a word, upon all that I have been told about these Mat∣ters, I can easily believe, that Love had its Birth in Spain.

Whilst the Cavalleros are with their Mistresses, their Foot∣men look after their Horses at some distance from the House; but there are very often unpleasant Mischances happen to them, for there being no necessary places in their Houses, all night long they throw that out of their Windows, which decency hinders me from naming to you; so that the amorous Spaniard which goes silently along the Street, is many times in a nasty condition from head to foot; and though at his coming out he was curiously perfum'd, yet he is forc'd to return as fast as he can to change his Cloths. This is one of the greatest Inconve∣niencies in this City, and which renders it so stinking and filthy, that in the Morning one can hardly pass along the Streets. I say in the Morning, for the Air is here so subtile and hot, that all this nastiness is consum'd before Noon. When a Horse, or any other Animal dies, they throw him into the Street where he happens to be, though it were before the Pallace-Gate, and the next day you'll find him reduc'd to dust. They are persuaded, that if they did not throw out their Filth and Carrion in this manner into their Streets, Madrid would not be long without the Plague, and it never is there.

But besides those ways I have now mention'd, that Gallants have to see their Mistresses, they have yet others; for the La∣dies visit one another frequently, and there is nothing more easie for them than to wear a Vail, and by the back door go in∣to a Chair, and be carry'd where they will: And this is the more practicable, because all the Women agree to keep one anothers Secrets inviolably, let there be what Differences there will a∣mongst them, and let them never be so angry one against ano∣ther, yet they never open their lips to make the least Discove∣ry; their Discretion cannot be sufficiently prais'd: It is true in∣deed, the consequences would be more fatal if they did other∣wise, since they make nothing here of murthering upon a bare Suspicion.

After this manner, the L••••ies make their Visits to one ano∣ther; you must not go to see your Friend when you have a mind, you must tarry till you are desir'd to come, and the Lady that has a mind to be visited, writes a Letter in the Morning, and invites you, you are carry'd in a Chair which is extream 〈◊〉〈◊〉 every way, and that they may be the lighter, they are

made only of a thin stuff hung upon a wooden frame, these stuffs are always mixt with Gold and Silver, and are very rich; they have in them three great Glasses, and the top is made of a very thin Leather, lin'd as the rest, and it opens upwards that so one may go in and out more conveniently; to every Chair there's four Bearers, which relieve one another, and a Footman carries the Hat of the foremost; for let it be what Weather it will, he must not be cover'd before his Mistress. The Lady is set as fast in her Chair, as a Diamond-stone in a Ring; she ei∣ther wears no Mantle or Vail then, or if she does, it has a black English Lace set on it, half an Ell deep very fine and dear; this is becoming enough: she has also a Coach with four Mules in those long Traces I have formerly mentioned, which follows softly after the Chair, that is commonly fill'd with old Gentle∣men-Ushers, and five or six Pages; for every body has these, my Banker's Wife has two. The Ladies never take any of their Women with them; and though several of them are going the same place, yet they each of them take a Chair to themselves, and do not go together in any one of their Coaches. I hap∣pen'd t'other day, to be in a stop there was in a Street, and there came by me fifty Chairs, and as many Coaches one after ano∣ther, they came out of the Dutchess De Frias, and went to the Dutchess D' Ʋzeda's House, I'll tell you why they went thither, when I have first told you that when the Lady is come to her House whom she goes to visit, the Chairmen carry her as far as the Anti-chamber, the Stairs are made purposely very wide and low, for the greater ease, assoon as she is set down, she sends away all her People and her Coach, and appoints them what hour to come and fetch her home, which is usually between ten and eleven a Clock, for their Visits are long enough to tire the greatest Patience.

There never comes any Men where they are met, a jealous Husband would have little to do to seek his Wife among them; he would be laught at, and they would not vouchsafe to give him any other Satisfaction, than telling him, That she is where he is not. The good Women are cunning enough, and they make use of this liberty; for you must know that every House has its back doors, by which they can steal out, and never be seen. Be∣sides this, every one has a Brother at her Sisters, a Son at her Mothers, or a Nephew at her Aunts, and this is another pretence they make use of to see their Lover. Love in this Country is very ingenious, nothing is neglected to gratifie their Passion, and the Mistress meets with Fidelity; there are Intrigues that last one's Life, and yet there has not been an hours time loss to

accomplish them, all Opportunities are improv'd, and there needs no more after seeing and liking one another.

I was some days ago at the Marchioness D' Alcannizas, she's one of the greatest and most vertuous Ladies of the Court; dis∣coursing of these things, she very freely said to us, I must needs confess, that if a Cavallero should be convenienly alone with me half an hour, and did not ask me all that a Man could ask, I should resent it so briskly, that I would stab him if I could. And would you grant him all the Favours he might ask you, interrupted the Mar∣chioness De Liche, who is young and handsome? That does not follow, replied my Lady D' Alcannizas, on the contrary, I have reason to believe, that I should grant him nothing at all; but then I could not reproach him with any thing, whereas if he made no attempt upon me, I should conclude he despised me. There are few, I believe, but what are of the same opinion in this matter.

There's one thing I find very odd, and not to look well, me∣thinks in a Catholick Kingdom, and that is, The tollerating of Men, that keep Mistresses so openly, without the least disguise; it is very true that they are forbid by the Laws, but they value not the Laws, and only obey their own Inclinations, and yet no body offers to call them to account, or to reprove them in the least. These Mistresses are called Amancebades; though a Man is mar∣ried, yet he must have one of these Creatures, and often the na∣tural Children are brought up with the legitimate in the sight of the poor Wife, who patiently bears all this without so much as speaking a word. It is very seldom one hears of any Differences between Husband and Wife, and yet seldomer, that they separate as in France. Of an infinite number of Persons that I know here, I have only seen the Princess Della Rocea, that does not live with her Husband, but in a Convent, the Courts of Justice are not much troubled here with domestick Quarrels.

It seems extraordinary to me that a Lady who loves, and is be∣lov'd by a Cavallero, is not jealous of his Amancebada; she looks upon her as a second Wife, and believes she cannot stand in com∣petition with her; so that a Man has his Wife, his Amancebade, and his Mistress, this last is generally a Person of Quality; 'tis she that is visited in the Night, and for whom they venture their Lives.

It happens sometimes that a Lady cover'd with her great plain Mantle or Vail, and not shewing any more of her Face than half an Eye, and being ordinarily drest, because she would not be known, and having no mind to take a Chair, walks afoot to the place of Rendezvous; either her being little us'd to walk, or ve∣ry often, her manner and way distinguishes her: a Cavallero fol∣lows, and begins to talk to her, uneasie to have such a Compani∣on

which it is hard to get rid of, she addresses her self to the first she meets, and without further discovery of her self, I conjure you, says she to him, to hinder this importunate Man to follow me any longer, his curiosity may injure my affairs; this Request a∣mounts to a command with a brave Spaniard; he asks him against whom the Lady complains, why he will press upon her against her mind, and if he meets with an obstinate Person, the Sword must be drawn, and sometimes they kill each other, without knowing for whom they have so expos'd themselves. In the mean while, the Lady makes the best of her way, leaves them fighting together, and goes where she's expected; but the jest is, that very often this proves either to be the Husband or the Brother that asserts her Cause, and by defending her from the Pursuit of the inquisitive, gives her an Opportunity to enjoy the embraces of her Gallant.

Some time ago, a young Lady who dearly lov'd her Husband, being inform'd that he did not live so regularly as he should, dis∣guis'd her self, put on her Vail, and standing in a Street he us'd often to pass through, she spy'd him and gave him an Opportu∣nity to speak to her. After he had occosted her, she began to thou him; and 'tis commonly in this familiar way that the Wo∣men in this Country make known their Inclinations. He made a Proposal to her, which she accepted, but upon condition that he should not be desirous either to see her or know who she was: he promised he would not, and so led her to a Friend of his; at their parting he assur'd her, that he thought himself the happiest of Men, and that Fortune had never been so kind to him before, and then gave her a very fine Ring, and begged her to keep it for his sake. I'll keep and love it dearly, and will meet thee here again when thou wilt, says she to him, for I had as good have thy Jewels as another. When she had ended these words, she open∣ed her Vail, and the Husband seeing 'twas his Wife, was in the greatest confusion imaginable at his Adventure; but he consi∣dered, that since she had so well contriv'd the matter as to get out of her House to watch him, she might also find a way to play him some other trick less pleasant; and therefore to be secure of her, he appointed two Duennas constantly to look after her, and they never after left her.

It happens also sometimes, that when a Man's House is not near the Place, where by chance he meets his Mistress, he goes without Ceremony into the next he comes at, whether he is ac∣quainted there or no, he civilly intreats the Master to let him have a Room to himself, because he has now an Opportunity to dis∣course with a Lady, which if he loses, he shall not have the like in a long time; this is enough to make the Master grant an Ac∣commodation

to the Gallant and his Mistress, and sometimes, I assure you, 'tis the very Wife of the Fool that goes away so kind∣ly; in a word, they will venture strangely for an Opportunity of seeing each other, though but for a quarter of an hour.

I remember a French Lady, discoursing of a certain Man to one of her Friends, said, Shew me an amorous Man, and I'll shew you one ruin'd. This Maxim is verifi'd here, more than in any place in the World; a Lover or a Gallant has nothing that he can call his own. It is no matter whether she either sees, or has a real occasion for a thing, 'tis sufficient if she does but barely desire it, they are never deny'd any thing, and the manner of giving it, en∣haunses their Liberality. I find them nothing near so amicable as our Frenchmen, but 'tis said they know how to love at a greater rate. Besides, their Behaviour is a thousand times more respect∣ful, nay this extends so far, that when a Man, let him be of what Quality he will, presents any thing, or gives a Letter to a Lady, he kneels upon one knee, and he does the same, when he receives any thing from her hand.

I said I would tell you, why so many Ladies went to the Dut∣chess of D' Ʋzeda's; she is very amiable, and Daughter to the Duke D' Ossone, her Husband has had a Quarrel with the Prince De Stillano, about a Lady which they both love; they drew their Swords, and 'tis like to be an ill business. The King has caus'd them to be arrested, that is, they are not made Prisoners, but he has confin'd them to their Houses; unless they privately go abroad in the Night to pursue their usual amorous Pleasures. And that which is strange, the poor Wife must not set her foot out of door as long as her Husband is under these Confinements, though it is almost constantly for some piece of Infidelity he is guilty of towards her. And it is the same also, if they be banisht, or sent to remain upon some of their own Estates in the Country, which frequently happens. In all the time of their Absence, their Wives keep house without so much as once going abroad. I have been told, that the Dutchess D' Ossone, was a Prisoner after this manner for above two Years; this is the Custom, but it makes ones Life very dull and tedious.

But 'tis not only the Spanish Ladies, who are so tir'd and uneasie here, the French find but little diversion: We are in a few days to go to Arranjues and Tolledo to kiss the Queen Mothers hand; I'll write you, dear Cousin, the particulars of that small Journey, and I wish with all my Soul I were in a condition to give you more es∣sential marks of my Affection.

From Madrid this 25 of July, 1679.

LETTER XIII.

BY my last Letter, I told you, Dear Cousin, that we were to kiss the Queen Mother's Hand; I have had this Honour, but before I conduct you thither, give me leave to tell you of something else. I would not go from Madrid till I had seen the Entry of the Marquiss De Villars; he made it on Horse-back, which is the Custom here, and if a Man be handsom, it is very advantagious for him: when the Venetian Embassador made his, it was happy for him that he was not in his Coach; he had one that was worth twelve thousand Crowns, which in going from his House was overturn'd, and as it was in Winter, the Marée (which is that nasty black dirt that stands in great puddles in the Streets, and through which a Horse goes up to his Girts) so spoil'd the Velvet with a Gold ground, and the rich Embroidery it was set off with, that it could never serve again. I thought it strange that for such usual Sights as these Entrees are, the Ladies should all be in their Balconies, in their rich Apparel, and with the same earnestness, as if it was to see the greatest King upon earth; but they have so little liberty, that they are glad to embrace all Occasions to shew themselves; and as their Lovers and Gallants hardly ever speak to them, so they take care to place their Coaches as near their Mistresses Balco∣ny, as they can, that so they may the more easily discourse with them by their Eyes and their Fingers; this is a Practice that is very useful to them for the understanding one anothers Minds, and they do it more readily than with their Voice, this silent Language seems to me very difficult unless one were long us'd to it; but they are early acquainted with it, and but two days since, I saw a Girl of about six years old and a Boy of the same Age, which understood by this way to tell one another a thousand pretty things. Don Frederick De Cordonna, who ob∣served them as well as I, but understood them far better, ex∣plained to me every thing they said; and if he did not add to the Discourse of these two Children, one must needs confess, that in this Country, they are born for Love and Courtship.

The Marchioness De Palacio, the Mother of Don Fernand de Tolleda, is one of my Kinswoman's best Friends; she has a fine House call'd Igarica, upon the Banks of Xarama, and though

this Lady is now very old, yet she never was there, notwith∣standing it is but eight leagues from Madrid. It is not lookt upon in this Country to be according to Grandeur to go visit their Lands, except they lie in some Principality or some City, and then they call them by the Name of their State. I chid this Lady for her Carelesness, and my Kinswoman engag'd her to make one in the Company of her Daughter Donna Mariguita, who is a little Woman, pale, fat and fair; these three Qualities are equally rare here, and she's admir'd by every body that sees her; the young Marchioness De la Rosa, would also be of our Company, her Husband, with Don Fernand de Tolleda, Don San∣che, Sarmiento, and Esteve de Carvajal, went on Horseback; Don Frederick de Cardonna, would not have fail'd of being there too, had not the Archbishop of Burgos writ him to come to him in all haste: when he told it me, I desir'd him to go see the fair Marchioness De Los Rios alas Huelgas. I gave him a Letter for her, in which I taxt her with her silence, and desir'd to know particularly how all things went. We set forward in two Coaches the sixth of August, at ten a Clock at Night, in the fi∣nest Weather that could be; the Heats were so excessive, that unless one would venture their Lives, it was impossible to tra∣vel in the day-time; but the Nights are cool, and the Coaches are in the Summer all open; the sides of the Coach were turn∣ed up quite round, with fine large Holland Curtains, trim'd with fine English Bone-lace, and ty'd with Knots of colour'd Ribbond, and as they often change them, they look very neat. We went so swift, that I was almost dead with fear least some∣thing about our Coach should break; for it is certain, that we might have been all kill'd a hundred times over, before the Coachman would have known any thing of the matter. I fancy they run so, to make amends for their slow going in Madrid; for even the Foot-pace of the Mules is too quick there, because of the ill pavement, the holes, the dirt in Winer, and the dust in Summer, with which the Streets are extreamly troubled. The Marchioness De Palacios wore a little Hat, trim'd with Feathers, according to the mode of the Spanish Ladies when they go into the Country; and the Marchioness De la Rosa lookt very pretty in her short close-coat, strait sleeves, and her other Ornaments, upon sight of which, we cried out, that we thought her Muy Bizzarra, and Muy de Gala, that is, very gallant and very splen∣did.

It was very odd methinks, that these Ladies should oblige us in three several Places upon the Road to alight out of our Coach, and hear the Marchioness de la Rosa's two Gentlemen

play upon the Guittar, whom it seems they brought on pur∣pose, and it was pretty comical to see these Blades gallop with their Guittars hanging behind their Backs. This ordinary con∣sort of Musick was nevertheless ravishing to them, and they were extreamly charm'd with the pleasantness of the Country in so fine a Night. Indeed, I never saw Women so infinitely sa∣tisfy'd. We arrived at Arranjues about five a Clock in the Morning, and I was amaz'd at its wonderful Situation; half a League on this side the Tagus we pass'd over a wodden Bridge, which is made to shut up; and after that we came into some Walks of Elme and Lyme Trees, which were so high, green and shady, that the heat of the Sun is never felt. It is an extraor∣dinary thing to find so near Madrid, Trees so perfect in their kind, for the Soyl is very barren, and they will not grow there; but yet near Arranjues, one cannot perceive this defect I speak of, for all along the Walks, and near the Trees, there are lit∣tle Pits and Trenches made, into which the Water of Tagus runs and moystens the roots of the Trees. These Avenues are so long, that when one is in the middle, one cannot see to the end of 'em. Several Alleys come into these, and every way make the perfect figure of a Star. People walk on the Banks of the Tagus and Xamara, which are two famous Rivers that environ the Island in which Arranjues stands, and which sup∣plies it with Water, and extreamly contributes to its beautiful∣ness. To speak truly, I never saw a more delightful place; I must confess the Gardens are too close, and several of their Al∣leys too narrow, but yet it ravishes one to walk there; and at our coming into them, I fancy'd my self in some enchanted Palace. The Morning was cool, every where the Birds made a sweet Melody, and the Waters a pleasant murmuring noise, the Trees and Hedges were loaden with excellent Fruit, and the Parterres were cover'd with most odoriferent Flowers, and I enjoy'd all this in most pleasant Company. We had an Order from Don John to be lodg'd in the Castle, so that the Alcade receiv'd us with great Civility, and was very careful to shew us every thing that was the most remarkable. The Fountains are in that number, and there are so very many of them, that it is impossible to pass through an Alley, to go into an Arbor, or upon a Patere or Terrass without taking notice of five or six with brasen Statues, and marble Basins: The Spouts throw up their Water to a vast height, they are not fed from Springs, but from the Tagus. Amongst others, I'll give you an account of the Fountain of Diana; It stands upon an ascent, from whence it is seen at a great distance; the Goddess is in the midst, en∣viron'd

with Bucks, Does, and Dogs, and every one of them spouts out Water. A litttle lower is a circle of Myrrh, cut in several fashions, and little Cupids peeping out half way, and throw the Water against those Animals which stand about the Fountain. The Mountain of Parnassus raises up its head in the midst of a great Pond, with Apollo, the Muses, Pagassius's Horse, and a fall of Water which represents the River of Heli∣con. Out of a Rock there issues out a thousand several Spouts of Water, some lanching out, others winding in and out like a Serpent upon the Surface of the Pond; some gliding gently, and others, either falling like Flowers in the Air, or else like Rain. The Fountain of Ganymedes is also very pretty, this beau∣tiful Child sitting upon Jupiter's Eagle, seems frighted with its flight; the Bird sits on the top of a Pillar with its Wings spread; he throws out the Water by his Beak and his Tallons; the Fountain of Mars is near this: That of the Harpyes is fine, they are placed upon very high Marble Pillars; at the four cor∣ners they throw out Water every way, they seem to have a mind to drown a little Youth who sits in the middle of the Fountain, picking a Thorn out of his Foot. But the most plea∣sant of all is, the Fountain of Love; this little God seems to rise with his Body all full of Darts, from every one of which comes out a Spout of Water. The three Graces sit at the Feet of the God of Love; but that which is most extraordinary, is the Water which falls from four high Trees like Fountains, whose noise is very delighful and surprizing, it not being natural for Water to come out of Trees.

I should be afraid to tire you, did I undertake to tell you the vast number of Cataracts, Falls, and Fountains of Water which I have seen here, I will only in general assure you, that it is a Place worthy of the curiosity and attention of every body. At eight a Clock the Sun began to be too hot, and some went in∣to the House, which comes far short of that Beauty it should have, justly to answer all the other things; and when the King goes there, those that attend him are so ill accommodated with Lodging, that either he must be contented to go there in all haste, and keep his Court a little, or else go as far as Tolleda; for there are only two bad Inns, and a very few private Houses. If we had not taken care before hand for Provisions, even to Bread, I am confident we had met with none, unless the Alcade would have given us some of his. And by the way, I'll inform you the difference there's between the Alcade and Alcalde, that so you may not confound them; the first signifies the Gover∣nor of a Castle or Place, and the other a Serjeant. Although

the most curious Pictures are at the Escurial, yet I found some excellent ones in the King's Appartment at Arranjues; it is fur∣nisht according to the Season we are now in, that is to say, the Walls are all white, have only a Matt that is very fine and thin about three foot deep with some Looking-glasses and Pictures. In this Building there are divers little Courts, which takes from the grace of it. We eat our Breakfast all together, and they perswaded me to eat some of a Fruit they call Pimento, which is as long as one's finger, but as hot as Pepper, the least bit of which puts ones Mouth in a Flame, they let it lie steeping in Vinegar and Salt, to get out the Virtue: this Fruit is brought into Spain growing upon a Plant; and I never saw any of it in other Countrys where I have been. We had an Ollio, some Ragous made of cold Partridges with Oyl, Canary Wine, fat Pullets, and Pigeons which are excellent here, and also several sorts of Fruit, which was extraordinary fair. When this Repast, which was worth a Dinner, was ended, we went to Bed, and went not a walking till about seven a Clock in the Evening. The Charms of this Place were as new to me as if I had not seen them in the Morning, but particularly, I still admir'd the Situ∣ation, which indeed ravishes, on what side soever one turns the Eyes. The King is there, with half a dozen of his Guards, in great safety, because there's no getting at him but over Bridges, which are all drawn up, and the Xamara, which in this Place, swells the Waters of Tagas, fortifies Arranjus. After we had walkt till ten a Clock at Night, we came back into a great Hall, pav'd with Marble, and supported with Pillars of the same. It was all enlightned with divers brancht Candlesticks, and Don Esteve de Carvajal had privately got thither several Musicians, which were a pleasant sort of a surprize to us, at least the Spa∣nish Ladies and my Kinswoman were mightily delighted with them. For my part, I thought they sung too much in the Throat, and their Divisions and Shakes were so long, that they were tedious; not but that their Voices are good, but their manner of singing is not good, and generally the greatest part in Spain, do not sing as they do in France and Italy. When Supper was done, we went to the great Canal, where there's a small Gal∣lion painted and gilt, we went aboard her, and tarry'd till two a Clock in the Morning, and then we set forward on our way to Tolleda.

I took notice when we came out of Arranjues, that the Ground was all Heath and Ling, and yet the Air was perfum'd with wild and mother Tyme, with which these Plains were all co∣ver'd. They told me there were a great many Rabits, Stags,

Does, and Fallow Deer, but it was not then their time to ap∣pear. Our Conversation was for sometime general, and for two Leagues together from Arranjues, I did not speak one word to Don Fernand, thô he sat just close by me; But being willing to imploy the time, in thoroughly informing my self about all the Particulars of the cruel Inquisition, which he had promis'd to acquaint me with, I desir'd him to let me know something of it,

The Inquisition, says he, has not been known in Europe, but since the beginning of the Thirteenth Century. Before that time, the Bishops and Civil Magistrates, enquir'd after Here∣ticks, and either condemn'd them to Banishment, or to the Forfeiture of their Goods and Estates, or else, to some other Penalties, which never almost extended to Death: But the vast number of Heresies which appear'd towards the end of the Twelfth Age, caus'd that Tribunal to be Establish'd: The Pope sent several Religious Persons to the Catholick Princes and Bi∣shops, to exhort them, to take an extraordinary care, in the Extirpation of Heresies, and to bring obstinate Hereticks to punishments: and thus things continued till the Year 1250.

In the Year 1251. Innocent IV. Authoriz'd the Dominican Fryars with the assistance of the Bishops, to take Cognizance of these sort of Crimes. Clement the IV. confirm'd these Tribu∣nals in the Year 1265. Afterward, there were several Courts erected in Italy, and in the Kingdoms which were dependants of the Crown of Arragon, till such time, that the Inquisition was establish'd in the Kingdoms of Castille, in the Reign of Fer∣dinand and Isabel, and after that in Portugal, by King John the III. in the Year 1557.

To that time the Inquisitors had a limited Power, and it was often contested by the Bishops, to whom the Cognizance of Heritical Crimes belong'd. According to the Canons, it was contrary to the Rules of the Church, for Priests to sentence any Criminals to Death, much more for those Crimes, which the Civil Laws often punish'd, with far less severe Penalties: But ancient Right yielding to new Power, the Dominican Fryars by the Popes Bulls have been for these two Ages, in possession of this extraordinary Jurisdiction; from which the Bishops have been excluded, the Inquisitors now only wanted the Authority of the Prince, to enable them to execute their Sentences. Be∣fore Isabella of Castille came to the Crown, the Dominican John de Torquemada, her Confessor, and afterward Cardinal, made her promise him to persecute all Infidels, and Hereticks, as soon as it should be in her Power to do so. She pervail'd over Fer∣dinand

her Husband to obtain, in the Year 1483. Bulls from Pope Sixtus the IV. to constitute an Inquisitor General, over the Kingdoms of Arragon and Valentia, for these two Kingdoms were his Fee held in Capite: and it is to be noted, that Fer∣dinand dispos'd of the Places in his Estates, and Isabel of those that were in hers: but the Queen got this Place for Torquemada. Afterwards the Pope extended his Jurisdiction over all the States and Countries of the Catholick Kings, and then Ferdinand and Isabel establisht a Supream Council of the Inquisition, of which they made him President: It is compos'd of an Inquisitor-Gene∣ral, (who is nominated by the King of Spain, and confirm'd by the Pope) of five Counsellors, whereof one is to be a Do∣minican, by a Priviledge granted to this Order, in the Year 1616. by Philip the III. Of a Procurator, two Secretaries of the King's Chamber, two Secretaries of the Council, an Algua∣zil Mayor, a Receiver, two Reporters, and two Qualificators. and Consulters. The Number of the Familiars and small Offi∣cers is very great, because all that belong to the Inquisition be∣ing not subject to or tryable by any other Jurisdiction, shelter themselves here from the ordinary Courts of Justice.

The Supream Council hath a full and sole Authority over the other Inquisitions, which cannot perform any Auto or Executi∣on, without leave from the Great and General Inquisitor: The particular Inquisitors are those of Sevile, Tolleda, Grenada, Cordua, Cuenca, Vailladolid, Marcia, Derena, Logronno, St. James Saragossa, Valantia, Barcelona, Majorque, Sardaignia, Palermo, Canaries, Mexico, Cartagena, and Lima.

Every one of these Inquisitions is compos'd of three Inquisitors, three Secretaries, one Alguazil Mayor, and of three Receivers, Qualificators and Consulters.

All Persons that take any of these Employments upon them, are oblig'd to make out their Proofs De casa Limpia, that is, that their Family is not stain'd with any thing of Judaism, or Heresie, and that they are Catholicks from the beginning.

The Proceedings of this Tribunal are very unusual. A man is Arrested and lies in Prison, without knowing the Crime he is accus'd of, or the Witnesses which depose against him: He cannot come out thence, unless he will own the Fault, of which often he is not guilty, and which the desire of Liberty forces him to confess, for they do not put one to death for the first time; but then the Family is markt with Infamy, and this first Judgment makes the Persons uncapable of any Employment.

There's no confronting of Witnesses, nor any means for a Man to defend himself, because this Tribunal above all things

affects an inviolable Secresy. It proceeds against all Hereticks, but chiefly against Judaizing Christians, and secret Mahume∣tans, of whom the Expulsion of Jews and Moors by Ferdinand and Isabel, has fill'd all Spain.

The severity of this Court was so excessive, that the Inqui∣sitor Torquemada try'd above a hundred thousand Persons, of which six thousand were condemn'd to be Burnt in the compass of fourteen Years.

It is pretended, that the sight of so many Criminals con∣demn'd to so terrible a Death, without any regard either to their Sex or Quality confirms and keeps the People in the Ro∣mish Religion, and that 'tis the Inquisitor alone, that has hindred the wickedest Heresies from spreading themselves in Spain, even in that time when all Europe besides was infected with them. For this reason, the Kings have given such Arbi∣trary Authority to this Tribunal, which is call'd the Tribunal of the Holy Office.

The general Acts of the Inquisition, which by the greatest part of Europe, are lookt upon, only as a bare Execution of Criminals, amongst the Spaniards, are esteem'd a Religious Ce∣remony by which his Catholick Majesty gives publick proofs of his Zeal for Religion. And therefore, are call'd by 'em Autos de Fé, or Acts of Faith; commonly they are perform'd either at the Accession of the Kings to the Crown, or at their coming to Age, that so they may be the more Authentick: The last was in the Year 1632. and there is one now making ready for the King's Marriage. As there has not been one of a long time, so there are great preparations making to render this as Solemn and as Magnificent as 'tis possible for those sorts of Ceremonies to be. One of the Counsellors of the Inquisition has already drawn a Project of it, which he has shew'd me: Here's the Con∣tents of it.

In the great Place at Madrid, there shall be a Theater erected fifty Foot long; It shall be rais'd as high as the Balcony de∣sign'd for the King, and no higher.

On the right-side of the King's Balcony, quite cross the Theater, there shall be rais'd an Amphitheater, of twenty five or thirty Steps, design'd for the Council of the Inquisition, and the other Councils of Spain, on the uppermost of which shall be placed the Chairs under a Canopy, for the General Inquisitor a great deal higher then the King's Balcony. On the left of the the Theater and the King's Balcony, there shall be another, Amphitheater as big as the first, upon which the Criminals shall be placed.

In the middle of the great Theater, there shall be rais'd a∣nother very little one, on which shall be made two Cages, where the Criminals shall be kept while their Sentence is reading.

There shall be likewise placed upon the great Theater, three Chairs for the Readers of the Judgment and for the Preacher, before whom there shall be an Altar erected.

The Places for their Catholick Majesties shall be so order'd, that the Queen shall be on the left hand of the King, and on the right of the Queen-Mother. All the Queen's Ladies of Ho∣nour, shall take up the rest of the length every way of the same Balcony; there shall be other Balconies prepar'd for the Ambassadors, and Lords and Ladies of the Court, and Scaffolds for the People.

The Ceremony shall begin by a Procession from St. Maries Church. A hundred Charcoal-men arm'd with Pikes and Muskets, shall march before, because they provide the Wood, which is to burn those that are condemn'd to the Fire. Next them shall follow the Dominicans with a white Cross carry'd be∣fore them; the Duke de Medina Celi shall carry the Standard of the Inquisition according to a Priviledge that's Hereditary to his Family: This Standard is of red Damask, on one side of it, is represented a naked Sword, in a Crown of Lawrel, and on the other the Arms of Spain.

After that, shall be carry'd a green Cross, wrapt about with black Crape; and after it shall march several Grandees and o∣ther Persons of Quality of the Inquisition, cover'd with Cloaks, that have black and white Crosses upon them, embroider'd with Gold-Thred. The March shall be brought up by fifty Halberdiers or Guards to the Inquisition, cloath'd in black and white, and commanded by the Marquis De Pouar, Hereditary Protector of the Inquisition of the Kingdom of Tolleda.

After the Procession has in this order past by the Pallais, it shall come to the great Place; the Standart and the green Cross shall be fixt upon the Altar, and the Dominicans only, shall remain upon the Theater, and spend part of the Night in Sing∣ing Psalms, and as soon as day breaks, they shall celebrate se∣veral Masses upon the Altar.

The King, the Queen and the Queen-Mother, and all the La∣dies must be in their Balconies about seven a Clock in the Mor∣ning; at eight, the Procession shall begin to march, as it did the day before, by the company of Charcoal-men, who shall place themselves on the left hand of the King's Balcony, the right shall be for his Guards. Afterwards, several Men shall

bear certain Past-board Effigies as big as Life; some of them representing those that dy'd in Prison, whose Bones shall also be carry'd in Coffers with Flames painted round them, and the rest shall represent those who have escap'd, and who have been condemn'd for Contumacy: These Figures shall be placed at one end of the Theater. After that, their Sentance shall be read, and they shall be executed. But I should tell ye, added he, That the Supream Council of the Inquisition is more abso∣lute than all the others: It is believ'd that the King himself has not Power to release those which shall be accus'd before it, be∣cause this Tribunal acknowledges the Pope only to be above it, and that there has been a time, when upon some occasions the King's Power, was found too weak to contend with that of the Inquisition. Don Diego Sarmiento is Inquisitor General; He is a mighty honest and good Man; and is about threescore Years of age: The King nominates the President of the Inquisition, and his Holiness confirms him; But as for the Inquisitors, the President proposes them to the King, and after he has ap∣prov'd of them, he then puts them in their Places.

This Tribunal takes Cognizance of every thing concerning the Faith, and it is absolutely invested both with the Pope's and and the King's Authority, theres no appealing from its Judg∣ment; and the two and twenty Tribunals of the Inquisition, which are in all the Estates of Spain, and which depend upon this at Madrid, every Month render an Account to it, of their Finances, and Revenues, and every Year of their Causes and Criminals: But those of the Indies and the other distant Places, only give an Account at the end of every Year. As to the Places of these inferior Tribunals, they are fill'd by the General Inquisitors, with the Approbation of the Counsellors. It would be pretty difficult to be able precisely to reckon up the num∣ber of the Officers, which belong to the Inquisition; for in Spain alone, there's above two and twenty thousand Familiars of the Holy Office. They are call'd by this Name, because they are as 'twere Spies, scatter'd up and down every where, which are continually giving true or false Informations to the Inquisi∣tion, upon which those are seiz'd and taken up, which they accuse.

Whilst with the greatest Attention I was listening to Don Fernand, the Marchioness De Palacios interrupted us, to let us know that we were come near Tolleda, and that certain old Ruines of an ancient Castle which we saw upon our left hand, were those of an enchanted Palace. I seem'd to Don Fernand to doubt of what she affirm'd, upon which he said, you may

think what you please; but certain it is, that there's for it a very ancient Tradition in this Country; and moreover, they pretend that there is a Cave shut up, and a Prophesie which threaten'd Spain with the greatest Miseries, when ever this Cave was open'd: Every body terrify'd with this threat, had no mind to draw upon themselves the sad Effects, so that this place did for several Ages remain very close. But Don-Rodrigue, the King, less credulous, or more curious, caus'd it to be o∣pen'd, upon which there were heard most terrible Noises; e∣very body thought that the very Elements themselves were go∣ing into confusion, there was so violent a Tempest: This did not hinder him from going into it, where by light of several Elamboys, he saw the Figures of divers Men, whose Cloaths and Arms were very strange: There was one held a Copper Blade in his hand, and upon it was writ in Arabick, that the Time drew near, for the Dissolation of Spain, and that the Persons, whose Statues were there, would ere long come. I never was in any place, said I smiling, where they rely'd so much on fabulous Tales, as they do in Spain: Say rather, replied he, that there never was any Woman so incredulous as you; and in telling you this Story, I did not think I should alter your Judg∣ment; But as much as one can be assur'd of a thing by the Testi∣mony of Men, this Story is credible.

It was now light enough, very plainly to observe all the Charms of the Country. We past the Tagus over a very great and fine Bridge, of which I had heard, and a little after disco∣ver'd Tolleda all surrounded with Hills and Rocks, which com∣mand it; There are very neat Houses built amongst those Hills, design'd for the pleasure of Solitude: The Arch-bishop of Tolleda has one there, whether he goes often: The City stands upon the Rock, the unevenness of which in divers pla∣ces contributes to make it high and low; the Streets are nar∣row, ill pav'd and troublesome, which is the reason, that all the People of Quality go there, either in Chairs or Litters: And as we were in a Coach, we took up our Quarters in the Placa Mayor, because that is only the part to which one can pass with a Coach; as soon as we were arriv'd, we alight at the Hospital of Foira, which stands in the Suburbs, whose Building consists of three Sides, within which is a great square Court, and the Church makes up the fourth side, and there we heard Mass: This Hospital was built by an Arch-bishop of Tolleda, whose Monument and Statue in Marble are in the midst of the body of the Church: The Walls of the City were rebuilt by the Moors; on the Sides stands a great many little Towers, which hereto∣fore

serv'd to defend it; And it would be astrong Place, being almost encompast with the Tagus, and having extream deep Ditches, did not the adjacent Hills command it, from whence it were easie to batter it down. It was not eight a Clock when we got thither; and we would spend the rest of the Morning in seeing the Church, which as 'tis said, is the finest in Europe: The Spaniards call it Holy, whether 'tis upon the Account of the Relicks which are there, or for some other reason which they did not tell me, I know not: If it was as long and as high as 'tis broad, it would be much better. It is beautify'd with divers Chappels as big as Churches; they all shine with Gold and Paintings; the chief of which are those of the Virgin, St. James, St. Martin, Cardinal Sandoual and the Connestable De Luna. In the Quire, I saw a Niche, or hollow place, from whence 'tis pretended there issued out for several days together, a Spring of Water with which the Soldiers and Citizens quencht their thirst in the time they maintain'd the Sieges against the Moors, when they were half dead with thirst; For without digressing from my subject, I must tell you, that in the City there is not so much as a Well or a Spring, and that they fetch all their Water from the Tagus, which is so ve∣ry troublesom, that one would wonder how Tolleda comes to be so full of People as 'tis. Near the entrance into the Church, there's a Marble Pillar, which they Reverence, because the Holy Virgin appear'd upon't to St. Alphonsus. It is encloas'd with an Iron Gate, and through a little Window they kiss it, and upon it is writ, Adoraebimus in loco ubi fleterunt pedes ejus. Be∣tween every Canon's Seat there is a Marble Pillar, and the Sculpture of the Church is fine and curiously wrought. I was amaz'd when I saw the Treasury. There must be thirty Men to carry the Tabernacle upon Corpus Christi day. It is made of Sil∣ver gilt, and there is exquisitely wrought upon't several Spires of Steeples, with abundance of Angels and Cherubins: within this, there's also another of Massy-gold, and such a vast quan∣tity of precious Stones that their value is inestimable; the Chalacies, the Patins and the Pyxes are no less beautiful: In∣deed, every thing shines there, with great Diamonds and Ori∣ental Pearls; the Sun, where the Holy Sacrament is kept, the Crowns and Robes of the Virgin are the most splendid things, that I ever saw in my days. But indeed this Arch-bishoprick is so very rich, that it is but just every thing should be answer∣able to it. I have told you, dear Cousin, that the Archbishop of Burgos inform'd me, that the Bishoprick of Tollada had three hundred and Fifty thousand Crowns a Year. I must now add,

that the Revenue of the Church it self, is a Hundred thousand Crowns. Forty Canons, which have every one a thousand Crowns, the Grand Arch-deacon, Forty thousand, three Arch-deacons, the first of which has fifteen thousand, the second twelve thousand, and the third ten thousand, and the Dean ten thousand Crowns a Year.

There is besides, an infinite number of Chaplains, Clerks of the Chappel, and other Persons, to whom daily allowances are given.

There is the Chaplain Mayor of the Chappel de los Rios, who enjoys twelve thousand Crowns a year, and six others that are under him, have a thousand Crowns per Annum.

After we had spent a great deal of time in considering the fine things with which this Court was fill'd, we resolv'd to re∣turn to our Inn, where we had left our Coach; and just when we were going away, there came to us an Almoner and a Gentleman that belong'd to Cardinal Porto Carrero, who sent them to complement us, and to assure us, that by no means we must lodge any where else than at the Arch-bishops Palace. They chiefly address'd themselves to the Marchioness de Palacios who was near a kin to him, and who earnestly desir'd us to go thi∣ther: We excus'd our selves upon our being in such Disorder, not having slept that Night, and being in an undress: she or∣der'd her Son to go to the Cardinal, and to beg him to accept our excuses. Don Fernand return'd in a moment, attended with abundance of Pages, some of which brought Umbrellos of Gold and Silver Brocado. He told us that his Eminence mightily desir'd we would go to his House, and that he had shew'd so much concern at our refusal, that indeed he had pro∣mis'd to bring us; and thereupon he commanded them to bring Umbrellos to defend us from the Sun, and that they had water'd the place which we mere to cross from the Church to the Palace. And immediately we spy'd two Mules drawing a little Cart, in which there was a Tub full of Water; and we were told that as oft as the Cardinal was to come to the Church, it was the Custom to water the way.

The Arch-bishops Palace is very ancient and large, most rich∣ly furnish'd, and every way suitable to the Person that posses∣ses it. We were conducted into a very fine Appartment, where immediately they brought us Chocolate, and afterwards, all sorts of Fruits, Wine, Water and other Liquors cool'd with Ice. We were so sleepy, that after we had eat a little, we begg'd the Marchionness de Palacios to see the Cardinal, and to excuse us to him, if we defer'd giving our selves that honour,

for that we were not able any longer to live without sleep. And indeed, the young Marchionness de la Rose, my Kinswo∣man and my self, chose to go to bed, and in the Evening, we drest our selves to see the Queen-Mother. The Marchioness de Palacios, who had always been extreamly devoted to her, went to the Alcacar, which is the Name of the Castle, and made her a visit whilst we slept; so that she told her, she would give us Audience at eight a Clock in the Evening, and that was the first time I was drest according to the Spanish Mode.

I do not think there's a more troublesome dress; ones Shoul∣ders must be so squeez'd, that it hurts one; there's no lifting up ones Arm, hardly can you get it into the Sleeve. I had on a Far∣dingal of a dreadful bigness, (for one must wear that in the Queen's Presence) I know not what to do with my self with this strange Invention; there's no sitting down in it, and I believe if I should wear it all my Life, I should never be recon∣cil'd to it. My Head was dreast after the Melene fashion, that is, the Hair all spread over the Neck, and ty'd at the end with some Non-pareil Ribbon, this is a great deal hotter than a Pa∣latine; so that being now in the Month of August, and in Spain, you may easily guess how I pass away my time. But this being a ceremonial Dress of the Head, there was nothing to be omitted upon such an occasion; besides, I wore their Patins which are fitter to break ones Neck, than to walk with. When we were all in a Condition to appear, for my Kinswoman and my Daughter were both also drest after the Spanish fashion, we were led into a Chamber of State, where the Cardinal came to see us; his Name is Don Luis Porto Carrero, he may be about two and forty years old, he's very civil, is of a sweet complai∣sant Temper, and hath well learnt the polite Breeding of the Court of Rome: He stay'd an hour with us, and afterwards there was serv'd up to us a very plentiful Meal; but every thing was so full of Amber, that I never tasted any Sawces so rich, and less pleasant. I fancy'd my self at this Table, like Tantalus, in the midst of Victuals, and yet starv'd with hunger, because I could not eat; for either all the Meat was perfum'd, or else full of Saffron, Garlick, Onion, Pepper and Spices: but with searching about, I found some Jellies and white Meats, which were admirable, and with which I sav'd my self harmless. There were also brought to Table a Ham of Bacon, which came from the Frontiers of Portugal, and which is better than either those they boast so much of at Bayonu, or those of Ments; but it was spread all over with certain little Comfits, which in France we call Non-pariel, the Sugar of which melted in the

Fat; it was drawn full of Limon-peel, which abated much of its goodness. The Fruit was the best and the pleasantest thing one can see, for whole Trees with their Fruit were Iced over with Sugar after the Italian way; you'll easily believe the Trees were not very big. There were Orange Trees thus order'd, with little artificial Birds fastned in them. There were like∣wise Cherry Trees, Rasberry and Goseberry Bushes, and others set in little Cases of Silver.

We did not sit long at Table, because the hour for seeing the Queen was near; we were carry'd thither in Chairs, though it is a pretty distance, and very much up Hill; for the Alcacar is built upon a Rock of a prodigious height, and the Prospect is admirable. Before the Gate there is a very wide Place, after∣wards one comes into a Court an hundred and sixty foot long, and an hundred and thirty broad, adorn'd with two rows of Piazza's, ten rows of the Pillars which made the length, were all of one entire Stone; and the breadth had eight rows of Pil∣lars, and this made a fine show. But that which pleases much better, is the Stair-case at the bottom of the Court, which is an hundred and thirty foot wide, like the Court. After one has gone up some steps it parts in two, and to speak the Truth, I believe 'tis one of the fairest in Europe. We went through a great Gallery, and vast Appartments, but met in them so few People, that it did not look as if one could have met with the Queen-Mother of Spain there; she was in a great Hall, whose Windows were all open, and which had a Prospect to the Val∣leys, and the River. The Hangings, Cushions, Carpets and Ca∣nopy were all of gray Cloth; the Queen was standing and lean∣ing upon a Balcony, having in her hand a great pair of Beads. When she saw us, she turn'd towards us, and receiv'd us with a Countenance merry enough. We had the Honour to kiss her Hand, which is little, lean and white: She is very pale, her Complexion pure, her Face a little long and flat, her Looks are agreeable, and her Stature is of a middle size; she was drest as all the Widdows in Spain are, that is, like a Nun, without so much as one Hair appearing; and there are many, (though she's not of that number) that cause all their Hair to be cut off when they lose their Husbands, for a greater expression of their Grief. I observ'd that her Gown was tuck'd up quite round, that so it might be let down as it wears out; yet I do not be∣lieve she practises this, but such is the fashion of the Country. She ask'd me how long I had been come from France, and I gave her an account; she enquir'd if they discours'd then of a Marriage between her Son and Mademoiselle d' Orleance, and

I told her no; then she said she would show me her Picture which was drawn from that the King her Son had, and she bid one of her Ladies, who was an old Duenna, and very ugly, bring it. It was drawn in water Colours, in the bigness of ones hand, in a Box cover'd with black Sattin, and lin'd with green Velvet. Do you find, says she, that it is like her? I as∣sur'd her that there were not any of her Features; for indeed it seem'd to squint, the Face was awry, and nothing could less resemble a Princess so perfect as Madamoiselle. She ask'd me whether she was more or else handsome than this Picture. I told her, that she was handsomer beyond comparison. The King my Son then, reply'd she, will be pleasantly cheated, for he believes this Picture is just like her, and no body can be better sa∣tisfied than he is with her. For my part, her Eyes that look askew were troublesome to me; but to comfort my self, I consider'd that she had a great share of Wit, and divers other good Qualitles. Do not you remember, says she, to the Marchioness de Palacios, to have seen my Picture in the late King's Chamber? Yes, Madam, an∣swer'd the Marchioness, and very well remember also, that as soon as we saw your Majesty, we all wondred extreamly, why the Pain∣ter would do you so much wrong; that's what I would have said to you, reply'd she, for when I arriv'd here, and cast my Eyes upon that Picture which they said was made for me, I in vain try'd to believe it, but I could not do't. A little she Dwarf, but thick as a Tun, and no taller than a good big Mushroom, cloth'd all in Gold and Silver Brocade, with long Hair hanging dowh to her Feet, came in, and kneeling before the Queen, ask'd her if she would please to have Supper; upon which we offer'd to with∣draw, but she told us, we might follow her, and she went into a Parlour all of Marble, she sat down to Table all alone, and we all stood round her. Her Maids of Honour, with the Camera Mayor, who look'd very sad, came to wait on her. I saw some of them, which methinks were very handsome; they talkt to the Marchioness de Palacios, and told her, that they were hor∣ribly tyr'd with that sort of Life, and that they liv'd at Tolleda, as if they were in a Desart. These were called Damas de Pa∣lecio, and they wear Patins; but for the little Menines, they wear Shooes quite flat; the Menines are Children of the highest Quality, and neither wear Cloak nor Sword.

There were several Dishes brought before the Queen, the first were Melons cool'd with Ice, and some Sallets and Milk, of which she eat plentifully before she touch'd any of the Flesh, which look'd ill enough. She does not want a Stomach, and she drank a little Wine pure, saying that was to digest her Fruit:

When she call'd for Drink, the first Menin brought her Cup cover'd upon a Salver, and kneeling gave it to the Camarera, who also kneel'd when the Queen took it from her Hands; and on the other side, a Lady of the Palace presented upon Knee a Napkin to the Queen to wipe her Mouth with: She gave some dry'd Sweet-meats to Donna Mariguita de Palacios, and to my Daughter, in saying to them, they must not eat much of such things, because they spoyl'd the Teeth of young Girls. She ask'd me divers times, how the Most Christian Queen did, and how she diverted her self? She said, that she had lately sent her some Boxes of Amber Pastils, some Gloves, and some Cho∣colate: She was above an hour and half at Table, speaking little, but seem'd merry enough. We desired to know her Commands for Madrid, whereupon she express'd a great deal of Kindness and Civility, and after that we took our leave of her. It cannot be deny'd, that this Queen has abundance of Understanding, as well as Courage and Vertue, to take as she does, so tedious a Banishment.

I must not forget to tell you, that the first Menine brings the Queens Patins and puts them on; this is so great an Honour in this Country, that they would not change it for the best place belonging to the Crown. When the Ladies of the Palace mar∣ry, and with the Queens consent, she adds to their Portions fifty thousand Crowns, and commonly some Government or Vice-Royalty is given to their Husbands.

When we came back to the Cardinal's House, we found a Theater prepar'd in a mighty great Room, and abundance of Ladies on one side, and Cavalleros on the other; and that which seem'd pretty odd to me, was a Damask Curtain which was drawn all the length of the Room to the very Theater, and so hindred the Men and the Women from seeing one another: They only stay'd for us, to begin the Comedy of Pyramus and Thisbe; this was a new Play, but the worst that I have yet seen in Spain. Afterwards the Comedians danced very well, and the Diversion lasted till after two a Clock in the Morning.

There was given a stately Supper in a great Hall, where there were divers Tables; and when the Cardinal had placed us, he went back to the Cavalleros, who had the same things on their side as we had: There was an excellent Italian Con∣sort of Musick, for his Eminence had brought with him Musi∣cians from Rome, to whom he gave large Pensions. It was six a Clock in the Morning before we could retire to our Appart∣ment; and as there were divers things for us yet to see, instead of going to bed; we went to the Placa Mayor, which they call

Secodebet; the Houses which environ it are of Brick, and all uniform, with Balconies: It is of a round Figure, and has Pi∣azzas about it, under which People walk, and this is a fine Place. We went back to the Castle to view it better and more leisurely; The Building is after the Gothick fashion, and very ancient; but there's something in't that looks so great, that I do not won∣der that Charles V. had rather have liv'd there, than in any o∣ther City under his Obedience. It contains in a square, four great Appartments with their several Wings and Pavillions; there's room enough conveniently to lodge the whole Court of a great King. We were shew'd a Machine that was very strange before it was broken; it was to draw up the Water from the Tagus, and to make it rise to the top of the Alcacar; the House where it stood is yet whole, though it be several Ages since it was built. There's above five hundred steps from it to the River side; when the Water was come into the Receiver, it ran by certain Channels into all parts of the City where there were Fountains: This was a mighty Conveniency, for now they are forced to draw their Water thirty fathom deep.

We went and heard Mass in the Church de Los Reys: It is fair and large, and all full of Oranges and Pomegranet Trees, Jassemin and Mirtles, that are very high; they are set in Cases, and are form'd into Walks up to the very high Altar, whose Or∣naments are extraordinary rich, so that looking through all these green Boughs, and the Flowers of different Colours, upon the shining Gold, Silver, Embroidery, and great lighted Candles which adorn the Altar, it seems as if the Rays of the Sun play'd before your Eyes. There are also some Cages painted and gilt, and fill'd with Nightingales, Canary Birds and others, which make a charming noise. I should be very glad that in France they would imitate them in adorning our Churches. The Walls of this Church is all over cover'd on the outside with the Chains and Irons of the Captives which have been redeem'd out of Bar∣bary. In this part of the Town I observ'd that most of the Houses had upon their Doors a square piece of Earthen Ware, upon which was set the Angelical Salutation in these words, Maria sue concebida sin peca lo original. I was told that these Houses belong'd to the Arch-bishop, and that none but those that work in Silk dwell in them, of which there are very many at Tolleda. The two stone Bridges cross the River are very high, broad and long: If they would but take a little pains with the Tagus, Boats might come up to the City, this would be a con∣siderable Conveniency; but they are naturally too lazy, to con∣sider that the Profit and Advantage of a work is to be prefer'd

before the trouble of undertaking it. We also saw the Hospital of Los Linnos; that is of Foundlings, and the City-House which is near the Cathedral; and at last our Curiosity being satisfy'd, we came back to the Archiepiscopal Palace, and we went to Bed and laid till Night, when again we had another Feast as splendid as the former: His Eminence eat with us, and when we had return'd him all due thanks, we set forward towards the Castle of Ignarica: The Marquiss de Palacios, with all his Fa∣mily, was there waiting for us; so that we were so obligingly receiv'd, that nothing can be added to the good Chear and to the Pleasure, with which we were entertain'd for six days, ei∣ther in Fishing upon the River Xarama, of in Hunting, in Walk∣ing, or in common Conversation: Every one was Emulous to appear good humour'd; and one may say, that when the Spa∣niards go so far as to lay aside their Gravity, and know and love you, they contribute hugely to ease and recreate the Mind. They become sociable, obliging, earnest to please you, and the best Company in the World. This is what I have found in this little Journey I have made, of which I should not have given you so particular an Account; but yet I am perswaded, Dear Cousin, you desire it so, and that you set some value upon my Complai∣sance.

From Madrid this 30th of August, 1679.

LETTER XIV.

THE Ceremony of Swearing to the Treaty of Peace con∣cluded at Nimmiguen, between the Crawns of France and Spain, was perform'd here the last of August. I had a great desire to have seen what past then; but as Women are not to be present there, so the Connestable De Castille promis'd to get us into the King's Chamber, as soon as he should be gone into the great Hall, Madam Gueux the Danish Ambassador's Lady, and Madam De Chais, the Envoy of Holland's Lady, were there also. We went up at a grivate Pair of Stairs, where one of the Constable's Gentlemen waited to receive us, and we tarry'd for some time in a very fine Closet full of Spanish Books, well bound and very diverting: There amongst others, I found the Histo∣ry of Don Quixot, the famous Knight of the Manca, in which

the plainness and the subtilty of the Expression, the weight and strength of Proverbs, and that which the Spaniards call El pico, that is the smartness and nicety of a Language, appear'd quite otherwise, then the Translations which we have in French. I was so pleas'd in reading it, that I hardly thought of see∣ing the Ceremony: It began as soon as the Marquis De Villars came, and through a Lattice-window which was open'd, we saw what past. The King placed himself at the end of the great Gilt-Hall, which is one of the most stately in the Palace; The Alcove was spread with a wonderful fine Carpet; the The Throne and the Canopy were embroider'd with Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeraulds and other precious Stones. Cardinal Portocarrero sat in a great Chair below the Alcove, on the right hand of the Throne; the Constable of Castille sat up∣on a Stool; the French Ambassador was seated on the left hand of the Throne upon a Bench covered with Velvet, and the Grandees were placed near the Cardinal; when every body was seated according to their Quality, the King came in, and when he was in his Throne, the Cardinal, the Ambassador, and the Grandees set down and cover'd themselves. A Secretary read aloud, the Power which the most Christian King had sent to his Ambassador. After that, a little Table was brought and set before the King, with a Crucifix and a Book of the E∣vangelists, and whilst he held his hand upon it, the Cardinal read the Oath, by which he swore to keep the Peace with France: There were some other little Ceremonies, but I did not mind them well enough to be able to give you an Account of 'em. A little after the King return'd to his Lodgings, but we were gone out of them before: We stay'd in the same Clo∣set where we stopt at first: It was so near his Chamber, that we heard him say, that he was never so hot, and that he would put off his Collar: And indeed, the Sun does shine very hot in this Country: At my first coming hither, I was afflicted with a strange Meagrim, and could not imagine the cause of it; but my Kinswoman told me 'twas because I wore too much upon my Head, and that if I did not take care I might lose my sight so; I immediately threw off my Bonnets and my Cornets, and since that time I have never had any pain in my Head. For my part, I cannot believe that there is in any part of the World more serene Air than there's here: It is so pure, that you can∣not perceive so much as one Cloud; and it is affirm'd to me, that even the Weather here in Winter, is like the finest Wea∣ther in any other Country: That which is most dangerous here is, a certain Wind De Galiegue, which blows off the Mountains

of the Mountains Gallicia: It is not violent, but 'tis so piercing, that it reaches the very Bones, and sometimes causes a Lameness in a Leg or an Arm, and often in half the Body, which lasts for ones life: It is more frequent in Summer than in Winter. Stran∣gers take it for the Western Briezes, and are ravisht when they feel it, but experience convinces them of its Malignity. The Seasons in Spain are much more convenient and pleasant than either in France, England, Holland, or Germany; For hot to rec∣kon that purity of Air, which cannot be imagin'd so fine as 'tis from the Month of September to the Month of June, it is not so cold, but one can make a shift without fire; and this is the reason, why there's no Chimneys in any of their Appartments, and that they make use only of Chafindishes. But 'tis a great Happiness that Wood being so scarce as 'tis in this Country, they have no occasion for't; It never freezes thicker than the thickness of two Crowns, and there falls little Snow. But the adjacent Mountains furnish Madrid with it all the Year round: The Months of June, July and August, are indeed excessive hot.

I was lately in a Company where all the Ladies were sadly frighted: One of 'em said, that she had received a Letter from Barcelona, which advis'd, that a Bell there, which was only rung upon some publick Calamity, or upon some occasion of the highest Consequence, had all alone rung several times: This Lady came from Barcelona, and she assur'd me, that when∣ever any Misfortune and Misery is to befal Spain, or that any of the House of Austria is to die, this Bell rings; that for a quar∣ter of an hour together the Clapper of the Bell moves with a strange quickness, and strikes in turning round: I would not believe it, neither do I yet: But all the Company confirm'd what she said: If it is a Lye, there were above twenty that con∣spir'd with her in it. They began to think upon what, and on whom this unhappiness which by this sign is foretold was to fall; and as they are very Superstitious, the beautiful Marchio∣ness De Liche, encreast their fears, by telling them, that Don John was very sick.

In their deep Mourning, they are attir'd like Fools, but chief∣ly on the first days; for the Foot-men as well as the Masters have long Cloaks trailing, and instead of Hats, they wear a very high Past-board Cap cover'd with Crape; their Horses are all in black Trappings, and Houssings which cover their Heads and all their Bodies: Nothing looks uglier; their Coaches are so ill co∣ver'd, that the Cloth which covers the Roof, hangs almost down to the Boots: No body that sees this doleful Equipage but would think, that some Corps is a carrying to be bury'd; the

People of Quality wear their Cloaks of black Bays, very thin and rotten, the least thing tears it in pieces: And that Mourn∣ing is most graceful, that is most ragged and tatter'd. I have seen some Cavelleros which tore their Cloaths on purpose; and I assure you, that through some of their Cloaths, you may see their Skin as ugly as 'tis to look on: For though their Children when they are young, are as white as Alablaster, and so pret∣ty, that you wou'd take them for Angels, yet it must be grant∣ed, that as they grow bigger, they alter very strangely; the heat of the Sun roasts them, the Air tans them, and 'tis easy to know a Spaniard from any other Nation: Their Features are nevertheless regular, but still there wants methinks our Air and Meen as well as our Skin and Complexion.

All the Scholars wear long Robes, with a little Border of Linnen about their Necks instead of a Collar; they are habitted very like the Jesuits; there's of 'em above thirty Years old; they are known to be Students yet by their Habits.

I fancy this City to look like a great Coup, in which they feed Poultry: For really, from the Level of the Street to the fourth Story, one can see nothing but Lattices whose holes are very small; and their very Balconies have 'em: There's always to be seen some of the poor confin'd Women standing behind them, to look upon Passengers, and when they dare, they open them, and with great delight shew themselves; there's not a Night passes without four or five hundred Consorts of Musick, in several parts of the Town; it's true they are at a moderate rate, and it is sufficient if a Gallant has only his Guittar or his Harp, and sometimes both joyn'd with a Voice hoarse enough to awake the most drowsy body, and afford 'em the pleasure of a Queen: If either they do not understand what is most excel∣lent, or cannot obtain it, they are content with what they can get: I never saw any Virginals or Theorba's here.

In every Street, and at every corner House, there's an Image or Statue of our Lady dress'd after the Fashion of the Country; with a Pair of Beads in her Hands, and either a great Wax Candle or a Lamp burning before her: I have seen three or four in my Kinswoman's Stable, with other pieces of Devotion; for you must know, that every Groom will have his Oratory as well as his Master, though perhaps neither one nor t'other often pray there. When one Lady goes to visit another, if it be in the Night, four Pages comes to receive her with great Flam∣boys of white Wax, and in the same manner conduct her out again, and while she's going into her Chair, they commonly kneel upon one Knee: This is something more splendid, than

the small Wax Candles enclos'd in Links which are us'd in France.

Here are Houses on purpose for Women of lewd Lives, like the Madelonnettes at Paris: They use them very severely, and there is not a day passes that they are not whipt several times; in a certain time they are releas'd, but come out worse than they went in, what they suffer'd making them not a bit the better. They live almost altogether in a particular part of the Town, where vertuous Women never go, but if by chance any one does go that way, they run and pursue after her, as if she was their Enemy; and if it happens that they are the strongest, she is sure to be cruelly us'd; and for the Cavalleros, they run the Risque of being torn in pieces as oft as they pass that way; that is to say, who shall have 'em: One takes him by the Arm, ano∣ther by the Legs, and a third by the Head, and if he grows angry, they altogether fall upon him and rob him, and even strip him of his Cloaths. My Kinswoman has a Page who was ignorant of the Tricks of these wretched Wenches, and went innocently through their Quarters, but they stript him as naked as common Thieves in a Wood could have done; and yet a Man must be content with this Treatment, For to whom shall he go for Restitution?

The Bell of Barcelona hath been but too true in its Progno∣sticks, for Don John was the first of this Month brought down so very low with his sickness, that the Physicians despair'd of him, and he was advis'd to prepare himself for Death: He receiv'd the News with so much Tranquility and Resignation, as very much confirm'd the Belief that several Persons had before entertain'd, that he had taken some private disgust, which made him rather wish to die than live: The King came every moment into his Chamber, and spent several hours at his Bed-side, notwithstan∣ding his earnest Prayers that he would not so expose himself to a Feaver: He receiv'd the Blessed Viaticum, made his Will, and writ a Letter to a Lady whose name I could not learn: He com∣manded Don Antonio Ortis his chief Secretary to carry it with a little Box lockt, which I saw; it was made of China Wood, and light enough to make one think there was in't nothing but Let∣ters and perhaps some Jewels; while he was so dangerously sick a Courrier arriv'd with the News of the King's Marriage with Mademoiselle; the Joy of which did not only fill the Palace, but all the City shew'd Expressions of it, for there were over the whole Town Artificial Fire-works and Illuminations for three Days together: The King could not contain himself, but run into Don John's Chamber, and although he was very drowsy and heavy to sleep, and wanted rest, yet he awak'd him to tell him

that the Queen would quickly be here, and intreated him to think of nothing but being well again, that he might assist at her reception. Ah! Syre, answered the Prince to him, I shall never have that Satisfaction, I should be content to die, if I had had the Honour to have seen her once: The King fell a weeping, and told him, That seeing him in that Condition, was the only thing that di∣sturb'd his Happiness. There was to have been a Bull-Feast, but the Prince's sickness has caus'd it to be put off, and the King would not have suffer'd any Fire-works in the Palace-Court, had not Don John, notwithstanding he had a violent pain in his Head, begg'd him to permit them. In fine, the 17th of this Month he dy'd extreamly regretted by some, and as little by o∣thers. This is the fate both of Princes and Favourites, as well as of Persons that move in an ordinary Sphere; and as his Cre∣dit was already declining, and the Courtiers now thought of no∣thing else but the Queen-Mother's Return, and the Arrival of the new Queen, so it is a mighty strange thing to observe with what indifference the Sickness and Death of Don John was taken; they did not so much as talk on him the very next day; It seem'd as if he had never been in the World. Alas! Dear Cousin, does not this deserve a little to be reflected on? He govern'd all the Kingdoms of the King of Spain, his very name struck Terror, he caus'd the Queen-Mother to be banisht; he drove away Father Nitard, and Valenuela, who were both Favourites, he had for the most part a greater Court than the King: And yet four and twenty hours after he was dead, I believe I saw in different pla∣ces fifty Persons of the highest Quality, which did not so much as speak one word of this poor Prince, notwithstanding divers of them had very great Obligations to him: And yet after all, he had very great personal Qualifications and Vertues: He was of a middle Stature, and a well shap'd body, his Features were regular, his Eyes black and lively, he had black Hair, a great deal of it, and very long: He was well bred, of a great Wit and Judgment, very generous, brave and beneficent, and had a Ca∣pacity for the highest Affairs. He was not ignorant of any thing that was suitable to his Birth, nor of any of the Arts and Sci∣ences. He both spoke and writ very well five several Languages, and understood more: He was perfectly well read in History; he could both make and play upon any Instrument as well as the best Master. He understood how to turn several things; he could forge Arms, and he delighted much in the Mathematicks; but being call'd to the management of the Government, he was oblig'd to take his Thoughts off all these Exercises. The face of things chang'd in a moment, his Eyes were scarce clos'd,

before the King (mov'd only by his own kind and easie Nature for the Queen his Mother) run to Tolleda to see her, and to in∣treat her to return; she consented to it with all the Joy she had to see the King. They wept not a little, while they embrac'd each other, and we saw 'em come back together. All the Per∣sons of Quality went to meet their Majesties, and the People shew'd abundance of Joy. I should inlarge a great deal more upon this return, did I not intend to be very particular in the Memoirs I am writing.

Don John laid three days in his Bed of State, and in the same Cloaths which he had made to go meet the young Queen; after that he was carried to the Escurial: The Funeral had nothing of Greatness; the Officers of his House, with a very few Friends accompany'd him: He was laid in the little Vault near the Pan∣theon, which is reserved solely for the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Blood; for there are none bury'd in the Pantheon, you must know, but Kings, and those Queens that have had Chil∣dren; those that have had none, are bury'd in that particular Vault. In a few days we are to go to the Escurial, which will be when the King goes there; but he is so taken up with his young Queen, that he can think of nothing but going towards the Frontiers to meet her. In every place where I come, they are continually ringing it aloud in my Ears, that she'll quickly be Queen of two ••••d twenty Kingdoms. In all likelyhood there's eleven of them in the Indies; for I only know those of the old and new Castille, Arragon, Valentia, Navarre, Murcia, Grenada, Andalousia, Gallicia, Leon, and the Isles Majorques. In these Places there are some parts of them admirable, upon which it seems as if Heaven had a mind to spread abroad its most benign Influences. There are others again so barren, that there is nei∣ther Corn, Herbs, Vines, Fruit, Meadows, nor Springs; and of these one may say, there's more than of the others. But gene∣rally speaking, the Air there is good and wholsome. In certain parts the Heats are excessive, and in others the Cold and the Winds are insupportable, although 'tis in the same Season. There are a great many Rivers, but that which is pretty singular, is, that the biggest of them is not Navigable; particularly those of Tagus, Guadiana, Minchio, Duero, Guadalguiver, and that of E∣bre; for either because of the Rocks, the falls of Water, the Gulphes, or the Turnings, Vessels cannot pass upon them, and this is one of the greatest Difficulties of Trade, and which most of all hinders those things from coming to Cities which there's need of; for if there was an easie Communication between them, those Places and Towns that want a great many Wares

and Goods, might be supplyed from those that abound, and so every body might be furnish'd with necessary things at a reaso∣nable price; whereas the Charges by Land-carriage being so high, one must want divers Conveniences, unless you are in a Condition to pay three times more for a thing than 'tis worth.

Amongst the several Cities which belong to the King of Spain, these are esteem'd, either for Beauty or Riches, viz. Madrid, Seville, Grenada, Valentia, Sarragousa, Tolleda, Vailladolid, Cor∣doua, Salamancha, Cadiz, Naples, Milan, Messina, Palermo, Ca∣gliari, Bruxelles, Antwerp, Gand, and Mons. There are a great many others which nevertheless are very considerable; and several of the Towns are as big as Cities; but there are not in them those multitudes of People, which are both the Riches and Strength of a King. And there are divers Reasons to be given why there is this defect. First, When King Ferdinand drove a∣way the Moors out of Spain, and established the Inquisition, what through the Punishments they inflicted upon some Jews, and the banishing of others, there dy'd and went out of the Kingdom in a little while, above nine hundred thousand Persons; besides, the Indies draw away abundance; the Unfortunate go there to enrich themselves, and when they have done so, they remain to enjoy the fruit of their Labour, and the Pleasures of the Country. Again, Soldiers are rais'd in Spain, and sent away to Garison other Cities under the obedience ••f the King; these Soldiers marry and settle in the Places where they happen to be, and never return to those from whence they came. Add to this, that the Spanish Woman bear but few Children; if they have three 'tis reckon'd abundance: and Strangers do not come to in∣habit there, as in other parts of the World, because they are not lov'd there, and the Spaniards are naturally recatados, that is sin∣gular, and reserv'd to themselves, and will not be communicative and open with other Nations, which they either envy or scorn: And thus having examin'd into all those means which help to depopulate the Country under his Catholick Majesty, one may rather wonder that there are so many People remaining.

There grows but little Corn in Castille, it is brought from Si∣cily, France and Flanders; and indeed, how should it grow, un∣less the Earth would produce it of it self, as the Land of Pro∣mise did? The Spaniards are too idle to take pains to Till and improve it; for being the meanest Peasant is persuaded that he is Hidalgo, that is to say, a Gentleman, that in every little Fami∣ly there's an Apocryphal History, compos'd within an hundred Years, which he leaves to the Children and Nephews of a Vil∣lage as an Inheritance, in which fabulous History they are all

made to descend from ancient Chivalry, whose Ancestors have done wonderful things; reciting that their Great Grandfathers, Don Pedro, and Don John, performed such and such Services to the Crown. I say, they having taking up these vain Conceits of themselves, no wonder if they will neither derogate from the Gravidad, nor Decendentia. At this rate do they talk, and they will more willingly endure Hunger, and all Severities of Life, than work (say they) like Mercinaries, which belongs only to Slaves. And thus Pride seconded by Sloth, hinder the most part of them to sow their Land, unless some Strangers come and help them to till their Ground, which by a special directi∣on and guidance of Providence always happens; Strangers that are more labourious and worldly minded, being mov'd thither by the gain they find; so that you shall have a sorry Peasant sitting in his Chair reading of a mouldy Romance, whilst these Strangers are working for him, in order to carry away his Money.

There's no Oats to be seen, Hay is scarce, their Horses and Mules eat Barley in the Straw chopt small. The Hills and Mountains in these Kingdoms I speak of, are of such a prodi∣gious height and length, that I do not believe there's the like in any other part of the World; one meets with some of an hun∣dred Leagues in length, which joyn one to another in a con∣tinu'd Chain, and which without Hyperbole, are higher than the Clouds, they are called Sierras, amongst which are reckon'd the Mountains of Pyrenea, Granada, Astura, Alcantara, Morena, Tol∣leda, Doua, Molina and Albanera. These Hills render the way so very difficult, that no Waggons can pass, which obliges them to carry all upon Mules, who are so sure footed, that in two hundred Leagues continual travelling amongst Rocks, and great Flint Stones, they will not so much as once stumble.

I have been shew'd some of the Patents the King Grants, I never read so many Titles, I'll set 'em down here. He calls himself King of Spain, Castelle, Leon, Navarre, Arragon, Grenada, Tolleda, Valentia, Gallicia, Sevile, Murcia, Jaen, Hierusalem, Naples, Sicily, Majorque, Minorque and Sardignia, the East and West Indies, the Isles and Terra Forma of the great Ocean, Arch Duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundia, Bra∣bant, Luxemburgh, Guelderland, Milan, Count of Hasburgh, Flanders, Tirol and Barcelona, Lord of Biscay and Molina, Marquess of the Holy Empire, Lord of Friezland, Salines, Ʋtrecht, Malines, Overissel and Groningen; and Grand Seignior of Asia and Africa. I have been told, that Francis I. laught at these, when he recriv'd a Letter from Charles V. stuft with

such arrogant Titles, and in his Answer gave himself no o∣ther Title than Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Gentilis.

They do not trouble their Heads to study much here, that little they do know bears them out, for with the help of their Wit and Grave looks, they seldom betray their ignorance by being at a loss about any matters; when they speak, they always seem to know more than they do; and when they are silent, you would think 'em wise enough to resolve the most knotty Questions. Nevertheless there are some famous Uni∣versities in Spain, amongst which they reckon, Saragossa, Bar∣celona, Salamanca, Alcala, Santiago, Grenada, Seville, Coim∣bra, Terragona, Evora, Lisbon, Madrid, Murcia, Majorque, Tol∣leda, Lerida, Valantia and Occa: There are but few famous Preachers; here and there you'll meet with some that are Pa∣thetical: But indeed, let these Sermons be good or bad, the Spaniards that hear 'em will perpetually beat their breasts with an Extraordinary fervour, and even disturb the Preacher with the grievous Cry which their troubl'd Consciences make them utter. I am willing to believe that there are a few that have some compunction, but in my Conscience, I doubt far less than they make shew of: They never leave off their Swords, either when they go to Confession or the Sacrament; they say, they wear 'em to defend Religion; and in the Morning before they put them on, they kiss 'em and make the sign of the Cross with them; they pay an excessive Devotion to the Blessed Virgin, and put an extraordinary confidence in her; there's hardly any Man that does not wear a Scapular or some em∣broider'd Image that hath toucht some of those that are held to be miraculous; and thô otherwise they do not lead lives very regular, yet they will not forbear praying to her with a trust, that 'tis she that must protect and save 'em from the greatest Evils; they are very charitable, not only upon the account of the Merits by Alms Deeds, but also by a natural Inclination they have to give, and a real pain they endure if either through Poverty, or for any other reason they are forc'd to refuse any thing that is askt them; they have also another good Quality, which is never to forsake their Friend in Sickness; their care and their concern is far greater in such a time, when doubtless the Presence as well as the Assistance of a Friend is most want∣ed: So that Persons that do not see one another four times in a Year, yet are constant in their visit three or four time every day; when one is under any affliction, and that they can become useful to each other: But as soon as they are well, they resume the same way of living they us'd before they were sick.

Don Frederick de Cardonna, of whom I now talk to ye, Dear Cousin, as if he and you were well acquainted, is return'd; He hath brought me a Letter from the fair Marchioness De los Rios, who without doubt, is still one of the prettiest Women in the World, and who is not weary of her retirement, I also by him heard from the Arch-bishop of Burgos, whose Merits are uncommon; and he added, that he came back in the company of a Spanish Gentleman, who had told him some very wonder-things; amongst others, that every Spaniard who is born on Good Friday, whenever they go by or through any Church-yard, in which there has been any body burry'd that was murder'd, or if they pass through any place where a Murder has been committed, tlthô the Man who was kill'd has been taken away, yet for all that he appears to 'em all bloody, and in the same manner and condition he happen'd to be in when he was murder'd, and this too, whether they knew one another or no: This certainly is a very unpleasant thing to those it happens; but in requital they can cure the Plague with breathing upon the Party, and do not receive the Infection, althô they be with those that have the Plague upon them: Many People, said he, wondred that Philip the IV. held his head so high, and stair'd up with his eyes, the reason was, he was born on Good Friday, and when he was very young he had several Apperitions of of these Persons that had been murder'd; so that with the fright of 'em he had got a custom (very seldom) to hold down his head: But, said I to Don Frederick, Did he talk seriously, and as if these things were allow'd of every body without any doubt. And just at I was saying, that it would be worth while to en∣quire of some creditable Person about these Matters; Don Fer∣dinand de Tolleda came into my Chamber, and so he askt him, and he assur'd me, that he had frequently heard folks talk thus of these Matters, but yet he would not answer for the Truth. It is also said, continu'd he, that there are a certain People which can kill a mad Dod with breathing upon him, and that they have a Power to remain in the Fire without be∣ing burnt; and yet I could never see any of 'em that car'd to trust themselves there: But they give this reason, that thô they could safely do it, yet there would be something of Vanity in it, by such peculiar Favours from Heaven to distinguish them∣selves from other Men; and for my part, said I laughing, I am of Opinion these Men have more Prudence than Humility: They are afraid (as 'tis but reasonable) of the biting of the Dog, and the heat of the Furnace. I am altogher of, your mind, Madam, reply'd Don Frederick, I can give little Faith to things above nature.

I do not pretend to make you believe it, says Don Fer∣nand, thô I must tell ye, I do not find any thing in this Matter more extraordinary than in a thousand Prodigies which we e∣very day see. Do ye think, for instance, that you ought less to wonder at that Lake which is near Guadalajara in Anda∣lousia, which foretells approaching Tempest, by most horrid bellowing and roaring, that is heard above twenty thousand Paces distance? and what do ye say of that other Lake which is found upon the very top of the Mountain Clavio, in the Comte of Roussillon near to Perpignan? It is extream deep; there's in't Fishes, both for bigness and shape that are monstrous; when a Stone is thrown into it, there are Vapours seen to come out with a mighty noise, and to ascend into the Air, and there convert into the Clouds, which produce most ter∣rible Storms, accompany'd with Thunder, Lightning and Hail. Is it not likewise true, continu'd he, in addressing himself to Don Frederick, that near the Castle of Gracimanos, in a Cavern which is call'd Judea, not far from the Bridge Talayredas, there's a Spring whose Water freezes as it drops, and grows so hard, that it becomes a perfect Stone, which cannot easily be broken, and with which in that Country they build fine Houses? You have a good Stock of Examples, said Don Fre∣derick, but if you will, I'll furnish ye with some others for your purpose. Do ye remember the Mountain of Monrayo in Arragon; If the sheep feed upon't before the sun rise they die, but if they are sick, and feed there after the Sun is up they are cur'd. I must not forget neither the Spring in the Isle of Ca∣diz, which is dry when 'tis high Water, and runs when the Tide ebbs: You shall not be the only Person, said I, in inter∣rupting him, that shall second Don Fernand in these sorts of Re∣lations, I must tell him, that in the same Isle of Cadiz, there's a certain Plant which withers upon the first appearance of the Sun, and grows green again as soon as Night comes. Ah! pret∣ty Plant, cries Don Fernand in Laughing, Well, I have enough now to be reveng'd for all the sport you have made at my Stories for this Hour together; I declare open War against you about this Plant, and if you do not send for one hither, I know what I'll believe: The facetious Humour of this Cavallero made us very pleasantly pass the Evening: but we were interrupted by my Kinswoman, who return'd out of the City, where she had spent some part of the day at her Lawyers, who was at the point of Death; he is very old, and a very knowing Man in his Profession: She told us, that all his Children stood round his Bed, and that the only thing which he recommended to 'em, was always to preserve a

good stock of Gravity; and after he had blest them, says he to 'em, what greater good can I now wish you, my dear Chidren, than to lead your whole Lives at Madrid, and never to quit this Earthly Paradice, but for the Heavenly: This may shew con∣tinu'd she, the strange Prepossession the Spaniards have for Madrid, and the Happiness they enjoy in that Court: For my part, said I, in interrupting her, I am perswaded there's a∣bundance of Vanity in that fondness that they express for their own Nation, for certainly they have too much Sense not to know, that there are many other Countries far more agreeable: It is not true, said I, in addressing my self to Don Fernand, that thô you will not say as I say, that you have the same thoughts? what my thoughts are, said he in smiling, is no rule for other folks; I must tell ye, that since my return, I am upbraided by every body with being no longer a Spaniard: But certain it is, that People being so bewitcht with the Delights and Charms of Madrid, and not having power to forsake it in any season of the Year, no body has thought of building pretty Houses in the Country whither they might sometimes retire; so that all adja∣cent parts about the City, which should be fill'd with delicious Gardens and splendid Seats look like so many little Deserts, and this is the reason also, why the City in Summer as well as in Win∣ter, is equally crowded with People: Hereupon my Kinswoman said, she would have me to the Escurial, and that it was agreed on by the Marchionesses of Palacios and La Rosa, to go two days hence; the Lady your Mother, added she, in speaking to Don Fernand designs you to make one, and I indeed to secure Don Frederick, for another, they both declar'd, that with abun∣dance of Joy, they would go this little Journey; and indeed, the next day we went to kiss Queen Mothers hand, and to know her commands for the Escurial: for you must know, 'tis the Custom, when one is to go out of Madrid, first to pay their re∣spects to the Queen. But we had not seen her since her Return. she lookt merrier than she did at Tolleda, and told us, she did not think of coming back so soon to Madrid, and that now it seem'd, as if she had never been out of it. There was brought before her a Gyant-Woman that came from the Indies: as soon as she saw her, she caus'd her to be taken away, she was so af∣frighted at her. Her Ladies would make this Colossus dance, who held in each hand two She Dwarfs that play'd upon the Castinets and the Biscay Drum, all this was ugly in the highest degree. My Kinswoman observ'd in the Queen Mothers Apartment; things which had been Don John's amongst others an admira∣ble Pendulum Clock, all set with Diamonds, he made her in

part, his Heir, in all likelyhood 'twas to testifie his regret for having troubled and vex'd her.

The Journey to the Escurial was perform'd with all imagina∣ble Satisfaction, the desire of entertaining you with it, hindred me from sending you the Letter I begun before I went thither; the same Ladies that went to Arranjus and Tolleda, were very glad to embrace the Occasion of taking the Air a little in so fine a Season; and we went first to the Pardo, which is a Royal House, the Building like the rest in Spain is handsom enough, that is, it consists of a square of foul several Appartments separated by Gal∣leries of Communication, which are supported with Pillars; the Forniture of it, is not indeed stately, but there are good Pictures, amongst others, those of the Kings of Spain, in odd sorts of Dres∣ses.

We were shew'd a little Closet, which the late King us'd to call his Beloved, because in it he was wont sometimes to enter∣tain himself with his Mistresses; this Prince who was seeming∣ly so cold and grave, that he was hardly ever seen to laugh, was really the most amorous and the pleasantest of Men. There is a Garden well enough kept, and a Park of a considerable extent, whither the King frequently goes to hunt; we were afterwards at a Convent of the Capuchins, which stands on the top of a Hill; this is a Place of great Devotion, because of a Crucifix which it seems was taken from the true Cross, and which often works Miracles: After we had said our Prayers there, we de∣scended on the other side of the Hill, to a certain Hermitage where there was a Recluse, that would neither see us, nor speak to us; but he threw a Ticket to us through his Grate, in which we found it writ, that he would recommend us to God. We were all extream weary, for we were forced to walk afoot up the Hill, and it was very hot Weather; we perceiv'd in the bottom of the Hill a very little Cottage by the side of a Brook, which runs amongst Willow Trees; we steer'd our Course that way, and when we were yet a great way off, we could see a Man and a Woman very well drest, rise up nimbly from the foot of a Tree where they were sett, and run into that Cottage and shut the Door as hastily as if they had taken us for thieves; but doubtless it was fear of being known, which made them avoid us; we went to the Place they had left; being sett on the Grass, we fell to eating some Fruit we brought with us; we were so nigh this little House, that they could easily see through their Win∣dows what we were doing; there came out a very pretty Coun∣try Lass, and with a Sea-Rush Basket addrest her self to us, and kneeling, begg'd some of the Fruit of our Collation for a Big-belly'd

Woman, that would die if we refused her. Immediate∣ly we sent her some of the fairest, and quickly after the same young Girl came again with a Gold Snuff-box, and told us the Senora of the Casita, that is the Lady of the little House, in∣treated us to accept of some Snuff for an Acknowledgment of the Favour we had done her. It is the Fashion here to present Snuff when they have a mind to express their Friendship; we stay'd so long by the Water-side, that we resolved to go no further that the Carcuela, which is another of the King's Hou∣ses, but not so handsom as the Pardo, and so neglected, that there's nothing worth commending, but the Waters; we were ill enough lodg'd there, though we laid in the very same Beds his Majesty did; and we were very lucky in taking along with us all Necessaries for Supper. After that we went into the Gardens, which are in bad Order, the Fountains run Day and Night, the Water there is so good and in such plenty, that for as little almost as one would desire, it might be made as plea∣sant a Dwelling as any is in the World. But 'tis not the Custom in this Country, from the King to private Persons, to keep se∣veral Country Houses in good Repair, they let them go to ruin, for want of some very small Reparations. Our Beds were so ill, that we were not loath to leave them early the next Morning to go to the Escurial. We went by Monareco, where the Woods begin, and a little further is the Park which belongs to the Con∣vent of the Escurial: For in effect it is one which Philip the II. built among the Mountains, that so he might the more easily get the Stone which he needed, of which there is such a prodigious Quantity, that without seeing it, one cannot conceive it, and certainly it is one of the vastest Buildings we have in Europe: We went up to it through a very long Walk of Elm Trees, which are planted in four Rows, the great Gate is stately adorn'd with divers Marble Pillars rais'd one upon another, till they reach up to the Statue of St. Lawrence which stands on the top; the King's Arms are cut upon a certain Stone which is call'd the Thunder-Stone, and is brought from Arabia, the cutting of which cost threescore thousand Crowns. It is easie to believe, that having been at so considerable a Charge for a thing so little useful, they would not spare any Cost for others which might be necessary and contribute to the Beauty of the Place. It is a great Square Pile of Building; but beyond the Square there runs out a Length, which contains the Buildings of the En∣trance, and are contriv'd to represent the Form of the Gridiron on which St. Lawrence (who is the Patron of the Monastry) suffer'd Martyrdom. It is built according to the Dorick Order,

and very plain; the Square is divided in the middle, and one of those Divisions which looks upon the Order, opens it self both ways into four other lesser Squares, which are four Cloy∣sters built also according to the Dorick Order, and who sees one of them, sees all the rest; the Building has nothing in it, either as to its Design or Architecture, that is extraordinary; that which is to be admir'd, is the Vastness of it, being Three hun∣dred and eighty Paces in the Square; for besides those four Cloysters I have mentioned, the other Division of the Square, subdivided into two, makes two other Piles of Building, one of which is, the King's Quarters, and the other is the Colledge; for there are in it abundance of Pensioners, whom the King maintains to study: The Friars that live in it are Hieronomites; this Order is unknown in France, and it is abolisht in Italy, because a certain Hieronimite Fryar attempted at Milan the Life of St. Charles Borromeo: But he did not hurt him, though he shot at him, and the Bullets pierced his Pontifical Habit; but nevertheless this Order is here in great Esteem; there are three hundred Monks in the Convent of the Escurial; they live much after the same way of the Carthusians, they speak little, and pray much, and Women never come into their Church, but be∣sides they ought to study and preach.

But there's another thing yet, which makes this Building con∣siderable, and that is, the nature of the Stone of which it is built. It was taken out of the neighbouring Quarries; it is of a grayish colour; the sharpest Air and severest Weather makes no impression on't, it does not soil or grow dirty, but constant∣ly preserves that colour it had when it was taken up. Philip II. was two and twenty years in building it, he enjoyed it thir∣teen, and then dy'd in't. This Structure cost him six Millions of Gold. Philip IV. added the Pantheon to it, that is to say a Sepulchre, like the Pantheon at Rome, contriv'd under the great Altar of the Church, all of Marble, Jasper and Porphiry, in which there are six and twenty most stately Tombs inchased in the Walls; and one goes down into it by a pair of Stairs all of Jasper. I fancy'd my self descending into some of those en∣chaunted places which our Romances and Books of Chevalry talk of. The Tabernacle, the Architecture of the Altar, the steps by which one ascends to it, the Pyx or Box in which the Host is kept, and made all of one single Agat, are so many Wonders. The Riches that are there, in precious Stones and Gold, is in∣credible. One single Cupboard of Relicks (for there are four in the four Chappels of the Church) infinitely exceeds the Trea∣sure of St. Mark's at Venice. The Ornaments of the Church

are imbroider'd with Pearls and precious Stones; and so are the Chalices and Vessels of precious Stones. The Candlesticks and the Lamps are of pure Gold. There are forty little Chappels, and as many Altars, upon which are put every day forty several Cloaths and Attires. The forepart of the great Altar is com∣pos'd of four Ranks of Jasper Pillars, and one goes up to the Altar by seventeen Steps of Porphiry Stone. The Tabernacle is beautify'd with several Pillars of Agat, and divers curious Figures of Metal and Chrystal. One can see nothing about the Tabernacle but Gold, Azur Stone, and other Stones so transpa∣rent, that through them the Sacrament (which is kept in an A∣gat Vessel) is easily perceiv'd. This Tabernacle is esteem'd at a Million of Crowns. There are eight pair of Organs, the Chairs or Seats in the Quire are made of rare Wood, which comes from the Indies, curiously wrought after the pattern of those of St. Dominick at Boulogne. The Cloysters of the Monastery are ex∣tream fine; in the middle there's a Flower Garden, and a Chap∣pel which opens four ways, whose Roof is supported with Por∣phiry Pillars, between which there are Niches, in which are pla∣ced the four Evangelists with an Angel, and the several Crea∣tures made of white Marble bigger than Nature, who throw out Torrents of Water into Marble Basins. The Chappel is arch'd with curious Architecture, and pav'd with black and white Mar∣ble. There are divers Pictures of an inestimable value, and in the Chapter-Room, which is very large, there is besides most excellent Pictures, two Bass-Reliefs all of Agat, two foot and a half long, which cannot be valued. As to the Church, it has nothing extraordinary in its Structure; it is bigger than that of the Jesuits in St. Anthony's Street at Paris, but of the same form, except that like their House, it is of the Dorick Order. Bra∣manto the famous Italian Architect, drew the Model and De∣sign of it. The King and Queen's Appartments are not stately; but Philip II. intended this only for a House of Prayer and Re∣tirement, the Church and the Library were the things he took most care to adorn. Titian the famous Painter, and divers o∣thers besides, have exhausted all their Art and Skill in curiously painting the Galleries of the Library, which indeed are admira∣ble, not only for the excellent Painting, but for a hundred thou∣sand Volumes that are there, without reckoning the Original Manuscripts of several Fathers and Doctors of the Church, which are delicately bound and gilt. You'll easily guess at the bigness of the Escurial, when I have told you that there are in it, seven∣teen Cloysters, two and twenty Courts, eleven thousand Win∣dows, above eight hundred Pillars, and an infinite number of

Parlours, Halls and Chambers. A little after the Death of Phi∣lip II. there was taken from the Fryars of the Escurial, a certain Estate in Lands (call'd Campillo) which the late King had given them; and was worth eighteen thousand Crowns per Annum, and this was done by virtue of a Clause in his Will, by which he revok'd all the immense Donations, which is his Life time he had given.

The Duke of Bragance being at Court in King Philip the Se∣cond's time, he had a mind they should go with him to the Escurial, that he might see that stately Pile of Building. And as he that had the care of shewing it to him, told him, It was built in performance of a Vow which Philip II. made at the Battel of St. Quintin, the Duke reply'd, He that made so great a Vow, must needs have a great Terror upon him. And now in mentioning this King, I remember to have heard, that Charles V. recommended to him the preservation of the three Keys of Spain. These were, the Streights-mouth, Flushing in Zealand, and Cadiz. The Turks or Moors have the first, the Dutch the second, and the English had the last, but the King of Spain soon recover'd it from them.

The Escurial is built upon a descent of some Rocks in a de∣sert and barren Place, and environ'd with Hills; the Village stands below it, and has but few Houses in't; it's in a manner always cold Weather there. The extent of the Gardens and the Park is a prodigious thing to see, in which one meets with Woods, Plains, and a vast House in the midst, in which the Keepers lodge; it abounds with all sorts of Deer and Fowl.

After having seen a Place which so highly deserves our admi∣ration, we all left it; and as we had visited the Royal Houses of Pardo and Carcuela, we return'd over the Mountains, which is a nearer way, but very troublesome. We came by Colmenar, and coasting along the little River of Guadarama, we past through Rozas and Aravac••, and arriv'd at Madrid, where we learnt that the Queen's Houshold were just going away to meet her upon the Frontier. We immediately went to the Palace to bid adiew to the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and the other Ladies. The King had made them all be mounted, that he might see after what manner they would be on the day of her Entry; for this reason all the Gardens, and Doors every way were kept close shut and guarded, and no Man was to enter there. The young Court Ladies lookt well enough, but good God! what figures were the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and Donna Maria d' Alarcon, who were the Governantes of the Queen's Maids; they rid every one upon a Mule shod with Silver, and all friz'd

with a large housing of black Velvet, like that the Physicians in Paris ride with upon their Horses. These Ladies, drest like Widdows, (which I have already describ'd to you) very old and ugly, with morose and imperious Looks, wore broad Hats, ty'd with strings under their Chins; and twenty Gentlemen which walkt a foot by their sides, held them up, lest they should fall. They would never have suffer'd these Men to have touch'd them in that manner, had not they fear'd breaking their Necks. For you must know, dear Cousin, that though every Lady has two Gentlemen Ushers, and that they go with them where ever they go, yet they never give them their Hand. They walk by their sides, and present to them their Elbows wrapt in their Cloaks, which makes their Arms look monstrous thick. The Ladies do not come near them; but that which is yet more strange, if the Queen in walking should happen to fall, unless her Ladies were near her to help her up, though there were an hundred Gentlemen there, she must be pleas'd, either to rise by her self, or lie all day upon the Ground, for none dare take her up.

We spent part of the Afternoon in looking at these Ladies; the Equipage they had was indeed very rich, but very poorly and dully contriv'd. The Dutchess of Terra Nova had alone, six Litters of Velvet of various colours, and all embroider'd, and forty Mules, whose houssings were as costly as ever I saw any. You will not hear from me again, dear Cousin, before the Queen is come hither. While the King is gone to meet her, and the whole Court is absent, my Kinswoman will go into Andalousia, about some business she has there. I might send you a short Relation of our little Journey, if I could be assur'd it would please you. I most heartily embrace you.

From Madrid this 30th of September, 1679.

LETTER XV.

THE whole Court is return'd, and in my Memoirs you'll find, dear Cousin, the particulars of the Queen's Journey. The King and she were both together in one Coach, and the Curtains being all open, I saw her at her arrival here: She was drest af∣ter

the Spanish way, and I did not think that she lookt less hand∣some in this, than in her French Garbe; but the King was drest a-la-Schomberg, which is the Spanish habit for the Country, and 'tis almost like the French. I have heard it told, how strangely the Queen was surpris'd the first time she had the Honour to see him; he had on a close body'd Coat of grey Barragon, very short and wide, Velvet Breeches, Stockings of Pelo, that is, raw Silk, which they work so very loose, that their Skin appears through them; this Silk is as small as a Hair, and though they be very strait, yet the King pulls them on at once, and so he'll tear some∣times twenty pair one after another. He had also a very fine Cravat, which the Queen sent him, but it was ty'd a little too loose: His Hair was put behind his Ears, and he wore a grey Hat. All the Journey, which was very long, they sat close to each other in a large Coach, and seldom could understand one another but by some certain signs, for the King cannot speak a word of French, and the Queen could speak but very little Spa∣nish. Upon their arrival at Madrid, they went to sing Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha, attended by all the Persons of Quality, and a multitude of the People, that made the Air resound with Ac∣clamations of Joy. Afterwards their Majesties went to Buen Retiro, because the Appartments in the Palace were not yet ready, and that the Queen was not to remain there till she had made her Entry. This time must needs have been very tedi∣ous to her, for she saw no body but the Camerera Mayor and her Ladies. She's forc'd to lead a Life so much against her Incli∣nations, that she has need of all that Discretion and Sweetness of Temper she's possess'd of to be able to endure it. She has not so much as the Liberty to see the French Ambassador; to be short, 'tis a perpetual Torment. All the Spanish Ladies love her dearly, and amongst themselves pitty her.

I was sometime ago at the Countess of Villambrosa's, and in a great deal of Company. The Marchioness de la Fuente came in there, and as they are extream superstitious in this Country, so she told them, like one affrighted, that being with the Queen, who looking her self in a great Glass, and laying her hand gent∣ly upon't, it crackt from top to bottom; and that the Queen be∣held it without being in the least mov'd, but even laught at the Consternation that all the Ladies about here were in, telling them, it betray'd a weakness of Mind to take such notice of things and Accidents as might proceed from natural Causes. They discours'd and argued a great while upon this matter, and with deep sighs said, that their Queen would not live long.

She also told us, that the Queen was much more disturb'd at the incivility of the Camerera Mayor, who seeing some of her Hairs out of place on her Forehead, spit on her fingers to lay them smooth; upon which the Queen stay'd her Arm, telling her in a Majestick way, that the best Essence there, was not too good, and that taking her Handkerchief, she was a great while a cleaning that part of her Hair which this piece of Antiquity had so unhandsomly wet. It is no uncommon thing here, to wet ones head all over, the better to smooth and make the Hair shine, the first time my Head was drest after the Spanish Mode. one of my Relation's Women undertook this curious piece of work, she was no less than three hours tugging and pulling my Head, and finding that my Hair, which is naturally curling, would not comply, without saying a word to me, she dipt a great Spunge twice in a Bason of Water, and baptiz'd me so handsomly, that I was laid up with a Cold for a Month.

But to return to the Queen, it would draw pitty from one to see how this Camerera treats her; I am well assur'd, that she neither suffers her to have so much as a single Hair curl'd, nor to come near her Chamber Windows, nor to speak to any body; and yet the King loves the Queen with all his Heart, and for the most part eats with her, and that without Ceremony; so that very often when the Maids of Honour are laying the Cloth, the King and Queen will divert themselves in helping them, one will lay the Cloth, and t'other a Napkin: The Queen has her Meat drest after the French way, and the King his after the Spa∣nish. He has a Woman Cook to dress all his Victuals, but the Queen endeavours to bring him to like the Ragous that are made for her, but he cannot abide them. But now you must not im∣agin, that their Majesties are surrounded with their Courtiers when they are at Dinner, at the most, there's only some Ladies of the Pallace, a few Menins, but a great many Male and Fe∣male Dwarfs.

The Queen made her Entry the 13th of January; after all the Passages and Avenues of the great Road which leads to Buen Retiro were stopt, and all Coaches forbid to come that way, there was a Triumphal Arch built, and the Queen painted upon't. It was also cover'd with divers Garlands, and had several Em∣blems and other things painted; it was set in the way by which the Queen must pass to go into Madrid; on each side there was a sort of a Gallery which had places contriv'd in them, to shew the Arms of the several Kingdoms under the Spanish Dominion, joyning one to another, by certain Pillars which supported some gilt Statues, every one of which represented Crowns and In∣scriptions

which had relation to those Kingdoms.

This Gallery reach'd to the Triumphal Gate on the great Road, which was very rich and adorn'd with several Statues; where likewise there were four beautiful and young Maids drest like Nymphs waiting for the Queen, and holding in their hands Baskets of Flowers, ready to strow them on the Ground as she past; hardly was one out of this Gate or Arch but a second ap∣pear'd, and so for a great way one after another was seen. These were adorn'd with the King's Council, that of the Inquisition, the Council of the Indies, of Arragon, of State, of Italy, of Flan∣ders, and other Places, under so many gilt Statues; that of Justice was higher rais'd then all the rest. A little further was represented the Golden Age, accompany'd with the Law, Re∣wards, Protection and Punishments. The Temple of Faith was exhibited in a Picture, Honour and Fidelity open'd the Gate, and Joy came forth to receive the new Queen. There was besides, a Picture which shew'd the Reception Solomon gave the Queen of Sheba, and another where Deborah was giving of Laws to her People. There were also the Statues of Ceres, Astrea, Ʋnion, Vertue, Life, Safety, Time, the Earth, Tranquility, Peace, Great∣ness, Rest Themis, and Liberality. Amongst all the Paintings I took notice of, that where Aeneas is descending into Hell; Cerberus chain'd by the Sybile, the Elysian Fields, where An∣chises shew'd his Son who should succeed him in his Posterity. The rest were fill'd with an infinite number of Hierogliphicks. The Queen stopt at the third Arch, which was over against a very fine Parterre in her way; in it were falls of Water, Grot∣tas, Fountains and white Marble Statues. Nothing could be more pleasant than this Garden: It belong'd to the Fryars of St. Francis of Paulo, who built it. The fourth Gate was in the middle of the Place call'd Del Sol; it was not less glorious than the others by the Gold, Pictures, Statues and Motto's about it.

The Street where the Furriers dwelt was all full of seeming A∣nimals, though their Skins was so artificially stufft, that any Bo∣dy would have taken them for liying Tygars, Lions, Bears, and Panthers. The fifth Gate, which was that of Guadalajara had its peculiar Ornaments, and after that, the Queen past in∣to the Goldsmiths Street, the side of which, was set full of An∣gels of pure Silver, there were seen also divers Bucklers of Gold, upon which were contriv'd the King and Queens Names with their Arms, in Pearls, Rubies, Diamonds, Emraulds, and other Stones so fine and rich, that the Skilful said, there was to the value of above twelve Millions. In the Placa Mayor there was an Amphitheater set full of Statues, and adorn'd with Paint∣ings.

The last Gate was near that, in the middle of the first Front of the Queen Mothers Pallace, was seen Apollo, all the Muses, the Picture of the King and Queen on Horseback, and divers other things which I did not mind so much to give you an Account of them. The Pallace Court was surrounded with young Men and Maids, which represented all the Rivers both great and small of Spain, they were Crowned with Reeds and Wa∣ter lillies, with Pots overturn'd, and the rest of their Attire suita∣ble. They complimented the Queen in Latin and Spanish, there were also erected in this Court, two Castles of artificial Fire∣works. All the Pallace was hung with the richest Tapistry that belong'd to the Crown, and there are but few Places in the World where there is finer seen, two Chariots full of Mus∣cians went before their Majesties.

The Magistrates of the City came out of their Publick House in their Robes which were made of Brocado embroider'd with Gold; they wore little Hatts buttoned up with Plumes of Fea∣thers, and were mounted upon very fine Horses, they came to present the Keys of the City to the Queen and to receive her under a Canopy. The King and the Queen Mother went in a Coach all open that the People might see them, as far as the Countess of Ognates House, where the Queen came to them.

Six Trumpeters in black and red Suites in company of the City Kettle Drums mounted upon fine Horses, whose Housings were of black Velvet, march'd before the Alcade of the Court, the Knights of the three Malitary Orders, namely, St. James, Calatrava, and Alcantara followed after in Cloaks all embroid∣er'd with Gold, and their Hatts covered with Plumes of Fea∣thers; after them went the Tutulados De Castille, and the Of∣ficers of the King's Houshold, they wore white Robes, and most of them were Grandees of Spain, their Hatts were trim'd with Diamonds and Pearl, and their Magnificence appear'd every way; they had most admirable Horses, every one had abun∣dance of Liveries, and their Footmens Suits were of Gold and Silver Brocado mixt with colour'd Silk, which lookt very well.

The Queen rid upon a curious Horse of Andalousia, which the Marquis De Villa Mayna, her first Gentleman Usher, led by the Reins, her Cloaths ware so richly embroider'd, that one could see no Stuff, she wore a Hat trim'd with a Plume of Fea∣thers, and the Pearl call'd the Peregrina, which is as big as a small Pear, and of an inestimable Value, her Hair hung loose upon her Shoulders, and upon her Forehead, her neck was a little bare and she wore a small Fardingal, she had upon her

Finger the large Diamond of the King's, which is pretended to be the fairest in Europe. But the Queens pretty Looks and her Charms shin'd much brighter than all the sparkling Jewels with which she was adorn'd; behind her and without the Canopy, went the Dutchess De Terranova drest in Duenna together with Donna Laura Maria D' Alarcon Governante of the Queens Maids; they rid each of them upon a Mule. Immediately af∣ter them the Queens Maids to the number of eight all cover'd with Diamonds and Embroidery, appear'd upon very fine Horses, every one having two of the Court walking by their side; the Queens Coaches went after them, and the Guards of the Lancilla brought up the Rear. She stopt before the Coun∣tess of Ognate's House, to salute the King and the Queen Mother; she alighted at St. Maries, where Cardinal Portocarero Arch∣bishop of Tolleda, waited for her, and immediately Te Deum began, as soon as it was ended, she mounted her Horse again, and rid to the Pallace, where she was receiv'd by the King and Queen Mother, the King help't her off her Horse, and the Queen Mother taking her by the Hand, led her to her Apartment, where all the Ladies were waiting for her, and fell on their Knees in all Humility to kiss her Hand. While I am upon this Head of the Pallace, I should tell you, Dear Cousin, that I have heard there are certain Laws or Rules establisht in the Pallace, which have been observed there for above these hund∣red Years without the least Devotion, they are call'd the Orders or Ceremonials of the Pallace; they run thus, That the Queen of Spain shall go to Bed at Ten a Clock in Summer, and nine in Winter. At the Queens first being here, she did not consi∣der the appointed Hour, it seemed to her Reasonable that the Rule of going to Bed, should be when one was sleepy; but it frequently hapned, that as she was eating her Supper, some of her Women, without saying a Word to her, would begin to undress her Head, and others to pull off her Shoes under the Table, and so hurry her to Bed with that haste, as made her very much wonder.

The King of Spain sleeps in one Apartment, and the Queen in another, but this loves his Queen too well to lie from her. It is thus noted in the Orders, That when the King comes out of his own Chamber in the Night to go into the Queens, He must wear his Shoes like Slippers, (for here they make none of these last,) his black Cloak upon his Shoulders instead of a Night-Gown, (of which no body makes use at Madrid) his Bro∣quel, or Bucklar (of which I have spoken in some of my Let∣ters) fastned under his Arm, and his Bottle fastned by a

String to the other: But you must not think this Bottle holds drink to quench thirst, it is for a quite contrary purpose, which you must guess. With all this Accoutrement, the King has besides a long Rapier in one Hand, and a dark Lanthorn in t'other; and on this manner he is obliged to go all alone into the Queens Chamber.

There's another Order in the Ceremonial, which is, That af∣ter the King has taken a Mistress, and happens to forsake her, she must be a Nun, as I have already told you. I have heard that the late King being in Love with a Lady of the Pallace, he knockt one Night softly at her Chamber Door, as she imagin'd it was he, so she would not open it, and only said to him through the Door, Baya, Baya, con Dios, no quiero ser Monja; that is to say, Go, go, God be with you, I have no mind to be a Nun.

It is also set down, that the King every time he receives a Favour from his Mistress must give her four Pistols, you per∣ceive he will not ruin his Estate thus, and that the Expence he is at for his Pleasure is very moderate. To this purpose it is publickly known, that Philip the IV. the Father of the present King, having heard of the Beauty of a famous Courtezan, went to see her at her House; but being a religious Observer of the Or∣ders, he gave her but four Pistols, she was very angry at so dis∣proportionate a Recompense to her Merit, but dissembling her Displeasure, she drest her self like a Cavallero and went to see the King, and after she had made her self known, and had had a most particular Audience of him, she pull'd out a Purse of four hundred Pistols, and laid it up on the Table: It is thus, said she, I pay my Mistresses; so pretending that this time the King was her Mistress, seeing she came in Man's Clothes to find him out.

By these Ceremonials, the fixt Time of the King's going to any of his Houses of Pleasure is known, whether it be to the Escurial, to Aranjues, or to Buen Retiro, so that without stay∣ing for his Orders, all his Equipage is sent away, and early in the Morning they go to awake him that he may rise and put on those Cloathes that are set down in the Orders according to the Season, and after that he steps into his great Coach, and so ve∣ry contentedly goes, where several Ages past it has been a∣greed on.

When the appointed time comes to return, though the King is never so well pleas'd where he is, yet he must go away, that he may not alter the Custom.

It is also known, when he is to go to Confession, and to per∣form his Devotions, at that Time the Confessor comes, and pre∣sents himself.

Every Courtier, and even the Embassadors are oblig'd when they go into the King's Chamber to put on certain little Lawn Cuffs, which they wear quite flat upon their sleeves, there are Shops in the Guard-room, where the Lords hire them, and re∣turn them when they come out. In like manner all the Ladies are to wear Patins when they go into the Queens pre∣sence, I think I have already told you that these are a kind of Sandals into which the Shoe is fastned, and which raises them up very high, if they should appear before the Queen without these Sandals, she would take it very ill.

The Queens of Spain have none but Widdows and Maids a∣bout them, the Pallace is so full of them, that one can see no∣thing else through the Latices and in the Balconies. And here's one thing seems to me very singular, which is, That a Man al∣though he be Married is allow'd to declare himself the Lover or Gallant of a Lady of the Pallace, and for her sake to commit all the Follies and to spend all the Money he can, without being in the least blam'd for it. One shall see these Gallants in the Court, and all the Ladies in the Windows, where 'tis their dai∣ly Employment to discourse with, and entertain one another by their Fingers: For you must know that their Hands speak a Language that is perfectly intelligible; and as it might be guest at if it was always alike, and that the same Signs always meant the same things, so they agree with their Mistresses upon certain private Signs and Actions, which no Body else under∣stands. This kind of Love is publick, a Man must be of a pe∣culiar sort of Wit and Humour dextrously to manage these In∣trigues and to be accepted by the Ladies, for they are wonder∣ful delicate and nice, they do not talk like other People. In the Pallace there reigns a certain Genius and Strain of Wit, quite different from that in the City, and so peculiar, that one must learn it as they do an Art or a Trade. When the Queen goes abroad, all, or however the greatest part of the Ladies go with her; then the Gallants, who are constantly upon the Watch, go a foot by their Coach sides, that they may enjoy their Conversation. It is really good Sport to see how these poor Lovers dirty themselves, for the Streets are horrid nasty; but then, the more dirty the more gallant. When the Queen returns home late, there are carried before the Coaches where her Ladies are, forty or fifty Flamboys of white Wax; and this sometimes makes a very glorious Illumination; for there are several Coaches, and in every one divers Ladies, so that fre∣quently, one may see a above a thousand Flamboys, besides those the Queen has.

When the Ladies of the Pallace are let Blood, the Chyrurge∣on takes a mighty care of the Ligature, Fillet, or any Cloth or Handkerchief upon which any of the Blood of the fair one is has fallen; for he never fails to make a rich Present of it to the Ca∣vellero that loves her, and this is lookt upon to be a worthy Oc∣casion for a Man to ruine himself to all intents; there have been some so extravagantly foolish, as to give the Chyrurgeon the greatest part of their Plate; you must not fancy this is only a Spoon, a Fork, or a Knife, which may be the Stock of a great many we know; No, no, I assure you, this extends to the va∣lue of Three or four thousand Crowns; and this is a Custom so rooted amongst them, that a Man had rather feed upon no∣thing but Radishes and Leeks all the Year long, than not to perform what he is oblig'd to do upon these sort of Occasions.

Few of the Ladies of the Palace leave it without being very advantagiously married; there are also the Queens Menines, who are so very Young when they come to her, that she has some not above six or seven Years old; these are Children of the highest Quality, I have seen some of them more beautiful than the God of Love himself was ever painted.

On some solemn Days, when the Ladies of the Pallace go a∣broad, or when the Queen gives Audicnce, every Lady has the Priviledge to place by her sides two Cavelleros who put on their Hats before their Majesties, although they be not Grandees of Spain; they are call'd Embevecidos, that is, Drunk with Love, and so transported with their Passion, and the Pleasure of being near their Mistresses, that they are uncapable of minding any thing else, they are permitted to be cover'd for the same Reason that mad Men are, who understand not their Obligation to De∣cency and good Manners; but yet to enjoy this Liberty, they must have leave from their Ladies, otherwise they dare not presume to attempt it.

There is no other Diversion at Court than Plays; but during the Carnaval, they empty Eggs by a little hole in the Shell, and fill them full of sweet scented Water, and then stop them up again with Wax, and when the King is at a Play, he throws these at every body, and every one in imita∣tion of his Majesty throw them likewise at one another; this perfum'd Rain makes the Air very sweet, but withal wets People pretty handsomly, and this is one of their greatest Pastime's, there's hardly any body at this season but what carries a hun∣dred of these Egg-shells, that are either fill'd with Orange-flow∣er, or some other sweet scented Water, and as they go along in their Coaches throw them in Folks Faces: At this time the Peo∣ple also please themselves after their fashion; for example,

they'll break off the neck of a Bottle, and tye the part that is within the Wicker, to the Tail of a Dog, and sometimes you shall see above two thousand run after him.

The King's Dwarf is the prettiest that ever I saw, his Name is Lovisillo; he was born in Flanders, he is extream little, and exactly well proportion'd; he has a handsome Face, an admira∣ble Complexion, and not only wittier than one can imagine, but withal very wise and knowing. When he goes to take the Air, there's a Groom to wait on him, who rides upon one Horse, and carries another before him, which is so very small, that he may properly be term'd a Dwarf Horse, and is as handsome for his kind as his Master is for his. This Horse is brought to the Place where Lovisillo is to mount him, for he would be almost tyr'd if he was to walk so far; and it is really a great pleasure to see the Dexterity of this little Animal and his Master, when he orders him like a manag'd Horse. I do assure you that when he is upon his Back, they do not both make above three quar∣ters of an Ell in height. He said very seriously t'other day, that he would fight the Bull at the first Bull-Feast, for the sake of his Mistress Donna Elvire. This is a little Girl about seven or eight years of Age, but wonderful beautiful. The Queen commanded him to be her Gallant. It is a great Happiness for this Child that she is fallen into the Queen's hands. I'll tell you how it happen'd.

The Fathers of Mercy went to redeem a certain number of Slaves which they brought to Madrid: and according to their Custom of coming through the City in Procession, the Queen chanced to cast her Eyes upon a Captive Woman which led two little Girls by the hand; they seem'd to be Sisters, but there was this difference between them, that one was extream handsome, and the other as ugly. The Queen made her come to her, and ask'd her if she was the Mother of those two Children; she answered, that she was Mother only to the ugly one. And how came you by the other, said the Queen? Madam, reply'd the Woman, we were in a Vessel in which there was a great Lady big with Child, but we did not know who she was, only by her At∣tendance, and the Richness of her Cloaths, it was easie to think she must be of Quality. After a long and sharp fight, we were taken, the greatest part of her People were kill'd; and she was so frighted, that she fell in Travail, and as soon as she was de∣liver'd, dy'd. I was by her, and seeing this poor little Creature without a Nurse, and ready to perish, I resolv'd to nourish it up with my own, if 'twas possible. As soon as the Corsaires were Mast••rs of our Ship, they divided the booty amongst them∣selves;

they were in two Vessels, and so each took away with them the Lot that was fallen to them. Those remaining Women, and other Servants which belong'd to this Lady were on one side of the Vessel, and I on the other; so that, Madam, conti∣nu'd the Woman, I was never able to learn what or who the Person was, whose Child I saved. I now look upon her as my own Daughter, and she believes I am her Mother. So charita∣ble a Deed, says the Queen, shall not go unrewarded; I shall take care of you, and the little Incognito I will keep. And in∣deed the Queen loves it so extreamly, that the Girl always wears very rich Cloaths. She follows her Majesty every where, and talks to her with that grace and freedom as sufficiently de∣clares her to be of no mean Original. Perhaps time my disco∣ver who she is.

Here are none of those solemn and pleasant Festivals which are at Versailles, when the Ladies have the Honour to eat with their Majesties. All is very reserv'd in this Court, and in my Opinion, nothing but a general and constant habit could pre∣vent abundance of things from being extream tedious to them. Those Ladies which do not actually dwell at Court, never come to it, but when the Queen sends for them, and she is not allow'd to send for them often neither. She lives for the most part with∣out any other Company than her Women, there was never any Life more melancholy than hers.

When she goes a hunting, (and you must know, that of all the Queens that have reign'd in Spain, she's the first that has had this Liberty,) and is come to the place appointed for mounting on Horseback, she must set her feet upon the Coach boot, and so throw her self upon her Horse. It is not long since she had one, that being a little shy and skittish, would start away as she leapt upon him, and so she had a most grievous fall. When the King is there, he assists her, but no body else dare come so near the Queens of Spain as to touch them and help them on Horseback; they had rather they should be hurt, and that their Lives should be expos'd to the greatest danger.

She has fourteen Matresses or Quilts upon her Bed; there's neither Flocks nor Feather-beds us'd here, these Quilts being made of Spanish Wool, which is the finest in the World; they are not above three fingers thick, so that her Bed is no higher than one of ours in France. They make these Matresses so thin that they may the more easily be turn'd and remov'd; and in∣deed I have observ'd that they keep hollower, and are not near so hard.

It is the Custom in Madrid, for the Master or Mistresses of

the House to go before those that come to see them; they think this is a piece of great Civility, to leave, say they, a Person in the possession of all that is in the Room. As to the Women they do not kiss one another in their Salutation, they only present their hand without Glove.

They have another Custom, which I think odd and peculiar e∣nough, and that is, when a Daughter has a mind to be marry'd, and is the eldest, and has already made her choice, though both her Father and Mother are against the Match, she need only go to the Curate of the Parish and tell him the Matter, and the busi∣ness is done. Immediately he takes her from her Parents House, and either puts her into a Convent, or to some devout Lady, where she remains for a little time; afterwards, if she perse∣veres in her Resolution, the Father and Mother are obliged to give her a Portion suitable to her Quality and their Estate, and in spight of them she is marry'd. Partly upon this Account it is, that such care is taken to keep their Daughters close, and to let no body speak to them, and so to make it difficult for them to take any measures for the management of an Intreague. O∣therwise, provided the Cavallero be a Gentleman, it is suffici∣ent, and he may marry his Mistress, though she should prove to be the Daughter of a Grandee of Spain.

Since my being in this Country, I think I have not neglect∣ed informing you of every thing; I will now proceed to finish my Memoirs of the Court of Spain, seeing those I first sent you please you so well. I shall send you the rest as fast as any thing happens and offers it self, that is worth your Curiosity and no∣tice. I do also promise you to write you that Relation you de∣sire of me. But for all these little Trifles, I must beg you, dear Cousin, to grant me something that is considerable, and that is, the Continuation of your Friendship, for which I have a just value.

From Madrid this 28th of September, 1681.

FINIS.