LETTER V.

THE Winter being again our long Vacation, I began to indulge my •elf in all the Pleasures so much leisure might afford me. The first undertaking I had, was to Ride to St. Lucar, in com∣pany with my old Friend, the French Merchant, who had an acquaintance in that place: But before I wou'd under∣take my Journey, I wou'd make my Comrade promise, to Club for a Calash, having had enough of their Pack-sad∣dles, and Mules, in my ramble to Xeres: I found no difficulty in perswading him, I sound much more to prevail with him, to let me bear half the Charge, in which I wou'd not be deny'd. I had not rid one of the 4 Leagues, we were to goe, but the dam'd Calash was so un∣easy, that I cou'd not chuse but think of the death of being broken on the Wheel: Certainly next to the Wheel, there is no Rack on Earth, like this sort of Carriages; but tho' our Calash was the Devil, our Mules were swift, Page  181 which in an Hour and a half, ran us to St. Lucar, which was four long Leagues, and the end of our Stage.

St. Lucar was the Templum Luciferi of the Ancients, from the Temple of Venus which stood there, that Star be∣ing sometimes called Lucifer, and of later years very famous for being the Port belonging to Sevil, where that Wonder of Cities, loaded and unload∣ed all her Bullion which came to her from America. But since Cales has got the Ascendant of Sevil in her Trade, she is mightily decay'd, and consequent∣ly this Town, which sits upon the Chan∣nel that goes up to't, is proportionably lessen'd: Not that 'tis now poor, or ill built, but as formerly she was so large, that she contended for the place of the Second City in Andaluzia, so we now wonder there shou'd be so little to shew for all that Boast which she made in the fulness of her Glory. It is still a good Town, and has daily Intercourse with Cales and Sevil by its Barco Longo's, which pass every Tide between the two great Cities, and is indifferently sup∣ported by this Second-hand Trade: The Governour has a stately House scituate on a Hill, almost inaccessible, that looks Page  182 all over the Town, the River, and the Country, almost as high as Sevil. Here are but few Monasteries, but those ve∣ry well built, and richly endow'd: A∣mong 'em is a little College, erected for the English Refugees, and dedicated to St. George. The Foundation of this Col∣lege, is just as Ancient as what the En∣glish call the Reformation; that is, as their Apostacy from the Catholick Church, and was laid for the Recepti∣on of those persecuted Catholicks, who fled for their Religion in the Reign of that Scourge of the Catholick Faith, Queen Elizabeth.

At this time there were but three Fa∣thers in't, but they live the better for their being so few, having all the Re∣venues in their own disposal. We saw but little here to please our Curiosity, unless you'll esteem this one, that tho' the Fathers were Englishmen; born and bred in England, yet by so long a dis∣use of their own Language, they had almost forgot to speak it; and when I wou'd have talk'd to 'em in their own Tongue, they answer'd in Spanish, and were not to be got out of that Lan∣guage into their own. In my many Conversations with these Religious, I Page  183 had more than once met with such an Adventure before; particularly after I had seen the Carthusian Monastery at Xeres, I went into the Town to visit an English Nun, who had been much fam'd for her Beauty: She indeed de∣serv'd that Character which was given her, for I never saw any thing more Charming. Her Name was Philippa Ward, Daughter to an eminent Mer∣chant of that Name, who liv'd at Pu∣erto desancta Maria, and in her Infancy had put this Girl into this Convent: When I found this fair Creature so a∣greeable, I devoted to her all my spare hours, while I remain'd in that Town, and at other times, when I cou'd be spar'd from my Attendance on Ship∣board.

I found her in every respect so Char∣ming, that it was a Violence to take my self from her: And to this very day, I feel such a tenderness for her that I never think of her without Pleasure. This Beautiful Maid had in her first prattling days, learnt the English Tongue perfectly well, her Father's Family had generally English Servants in't, and while she was at home it was impossible for her to forget the Language of her Page  184 Parents, but she no sooner went into the Nunnery, and associated with those of another Tongue, but she left off her own, and in some Years after, so intirely forgot it, that when I went to see her, she hardly knew how to pronounce her own Name after the English Accent. And now I have mention'd this poor Creature, suffer me to digress a little, to ease my spleen of those resentments, which every generous Man ought to have against the usage commonly practis'd in the dedication of these young Women to Monastick lives.

If a family be over loaded with Chil∣dren beyond the Father's Capacity of preferring, the youngest are Sacrific'd to Cloysters, at an age wherein they are not able to understand what they are to undergoe. This Lady was a deplorable instance of that sort of Cruelty: Her Father dy'd when she was young, and there being other Children elder than she, the Estate was divided among them, and but a Competency for this to intro∣duce her into the Monastery, with some inconsiderable allowance for her Life, intrusted in the hands of her Uncle, her Father's Brother, who as she told me her self, lives now in London; but Page  185 the Condition of the Will ran thus, That if she shou'd survive her Brothers and Sisters, that then all their several Fortunes to descend upon her, and this Uncle to take it into his hands, and to see it paid: When she first was put into the Nunnery, she was but 5 Years of age, in her 6th her Father dy'd; and before she was 12, she was the only Survivor of of all his Family: She now having a Title to the whole, apply'd her self to her Uncle for her ample fortune; but soon as the rest were Dead, he seiz'd all into his own hands, and came away into England, and 'twas in vain to re∣quire the performance of her Father's Will, from one whose temper was not to do her Justice. In short, he cajol'd the Abbess with bribes, to wheedle the un∣happy Girl to remain in the Convent, and while the Abbess on one side was inchanting her with Stories of that bles∣sed kind of Life, the Uncle on the other side, trifled her out of her hopes of her due; so that at length, when it was pro∣pos'd if she wou'd profess for good and all, she seeing no likelihood of receiv∣ing her Fortune, took the habit, and devoted her self forever to the Monastery. After this, it was impossible to think of geting out, and he being now secure Page  186 that she wou'd never trouble him more, enjoy'd her Estate, and lives upon't to this day. To such an extreamity was she at last reduc'd, that even her small annuity was stopt, and she liv'd with no other subsistence but that of the House, and about 4 l. Sterling Yearly, allow'd her by one Malbrank a charitable English Merchant in Cales. In this Con∣dition she was when I came acquainted with her, and when she told me this Melancholy Story, I cou'd not chuse but suffer with her in her misfortunes. So great was my concern for her, that tho' I knew the danger of taking her out of the Convent, yet a Thousand times I importun'd her to trust her self with me, and I wou'd have run the hazard of my Life for her deliverance, if she wou'd have consented, but 'twas too bold an undertaking for her, and all my prayers were lost.

I expect it will here be objected, that no body is compell'd to take the habit: but when the time of profession is ap∣pointed, the Person who is to profess, is at liberty to stay or goe; but of how little advantage is this liberty, when the poor Victims have been spoil'd of their Fortunes, and Nurs'd up in a superstitious Faith of the Sanctity of a Religious Life, Page  187 which wants no allurements to make it grate∣ful during the time of the Noviciate? Not but that I know several who have, after a long abode in a Nunnery, releas'd 'emselves again, particularly a Dutch Woman in Cales, who liv'd 45 Years there, came out and was marry'd. But these are such who have no Estates to Tempt their covetous Guardians to keep 'em in, and are of so little account, that the matter was not much what became of 'em. Thus far I have digrest — but to re∣turn to my company—

From St. Lucar, I was perswaded to take a tour to Sevil, the chief City, not only of this Province, but of all the Kingdom, for Beauty, buildings and antiquity. And here I found Entertainment for my Eyes, and every Sence I had; for in all my life I never saw any thing pleas'd me more. Paris, Lyons, and Roan, and 20 such places afford not such variety of won∣ders. Not but that I had heard and Read much of its Fame, which did in some mea∣sure prepare me for what I was to expect, but I found it all infinitely short of the Truth, as much as they, who drawn by the great Re∣port of our Kings Palace at Versailes, find it so prodigiously surpassing their expectation: As 'twill be impossible to give you particular descriptions of every thing I saw, so I am pre∣vented by several Books which are publisht of it, to which I referr you. I shall only in gross, acquaint you, that for the Elegancy of the publick and private Structures, the strength and beauty of its Walls, the num∣ber and opulence of its Monasteries, the pro∣digious revenues of their Endowments, and Page  188 the Pompous Furniture within 'em, its ex∣tent and spatious streets, its Antiquity and Reputation for the Moorish Wars, and other innumerable excellencies, there is not within the whole Compass of the Globe a finer City. I cou'd not for a whole week be drawn from this pleasant contemplation, tho' my friend, who had less Curiosity than I, importun'd me every morning to be gone: But after I had remain'd here 7 days, I took my leave with as much reluctance as I shou'd have done with a Mistress I had been so many years courting for her company, and was that moment to leave her forever.

Our next design was to return to Cales, but because I had been twice jaded on Land, first by their Mules, and now by their Ca∣lashes, I was resolv'd, ill as I lov'd the Water, (for I never had a disposition for't but for my Curiosity) to trust that Element with my Body; so hiring Places in a Barco-longo, we ship'd in the Morning, and rouled down the stream with Pleasure enough, till we came to St. Lucar, and there we entered on the Ocean again. These Barco-longo's (if you'll pardon the ill Grammar) are excellent Sailers, and will lye nearer the Wind by two Points than any of our Ships. They are extremely sharp before and behind, and that makes 'em fly when they are before the Wind, but when they come to be close halled, then are lee∣wardly, and make but little way.

There are several dangerous Rocks be∣tween St. Lucar and Cales, and tho' the Pilots of these Boats are dextrous in avoiding 'em, yet for want of a fair Wind, they are some∣times Page  189 put to their shifts; and when they at∣tempt, as sometimes they do, to go to wind∣ward of 'em, they hazard by their obstinacy their own, and the lives of their passengers. It far'd just so with us, for the Wind taking us short, just as we were abreast of Rota, where there runs a great Sea, our Pilot thought to weather the Rock, but was forc't in all hast, to bear away and go to leeward of it. This was the devil again I thought, and now I was ready to Conclude there was no safety in tra∣vailing this Country, neither by Land nor Water, and to aggravate my ill Humour, just as we enter'd the Bay, we we re again beset with another Rock, call'd the Dia∣mond, which we had much ado to shun. But at last the danger was past, and we got safe in to my great Satisfaction, who was heartily vext to think of being drown'd in a Bay, who had tempted the Main in so many Voyages.

I shall not trouble you with any thing that past this winter, having met with no adven∣ture worth relating, only such as Regarded the Church, which I am a littte tender of re∣peating, and wish with all my heart, I had no occasion giv'n me of being Scandaliz'd at 'em. But I hope it will be no offence to say, that re∣ally the present Clergy are exceedingly cor∣rupted, and that the artifices, with which they delude the ignorant multitude are the highest reproach that any Communion can sustain. Among many more, give me leave to name one, which is one of the most reigning scan∣dals in our Churches, and that is, the prote∣ction they give to every Rakehell and Villain, from the punishment of his Crimes. What Page  190 a defamation is it to the Altars of the holy Catholick Church, to defend Murderers and Assassins? And yet nothing is more frequent all over the Roman Christendom, especially in Spain, Portugal, and Italy. In France, tho' our Churches have the same Sacredness, yet we allow no shelter but in cases of great Oppression; for there Justice can force its ex∣ecution, and this indulgence is not granted to Wretches, who for their evil deeds stand for∣feited to the Civil Power. I cou'd tell you surprizing stories of the Transactions of the inquisition, which come to the purpose I am speaking of, but 'tis a dangerous topick, and I shall forbear meddling with it. But that this evil is notoriously Eminent in Spain, let this story inform you, which is directly true, and told me by one who was an Eye Witness. The Calla Nueva of Cales (as I told you) is the Exchange, where the Merchants meet in the Morning to Negotiate their affairs; this street at that time is extreamly crouded, and was so, when a Boy pressing very rudely thro' the Croud, happen'd to tread on a Gentle∣man's Toes, the Gentleman being hurt, turn'd round, and seeing the boy, who stood staring at him as if he dar'd his anger, hit him over the Face, and put him away. The lad taking this for an affront, went away murmuring, and presently after came back with a Stiletto, and finding the Gentleman still there, got behind him, and with his Dagger Stab'd him into the Reins, and at that one stroak laid him flat: His fall drew the Eyes of all the Ex∣change that way, and when they saw the boy with his Stiletto bloody yet in his hand, every Page  191 body was inquisitive to know the cause of such an accident, the Gentleman's company knew how he had struck the Boy, and now they had seen him Revenge the affront, they as well as the rest open'd a way thro' the Croud, and made a lane for the young Mur∣derer to escape to the next Convent, which he immediately did, and was there protected by the Fryers, till some account cou'd be giv'n of the Wound. The Gentleman in three daies dyed, and still the Boy remain'd in his Sanctuary, and was afterwards made a Servant to the Convent, and lives there to this day, unpunish't and unexamin'd. Now what can be more derogatory to the Sanctity of our Religion than thus to protect such impieties? Believe me, my friend, it gives great occasion of reproach for the Enemies of our Faith to lay upon us, and I can't well blame 'em for speaking truth.

The Winter being now far advanc't with∣out any memorable adventure, the General was called home, and another order'd to re∣ceive him. He Sayl'd for England with the greatest part of his Fleet, and a Numerous Convoy of Merchants, and I still remain'd on board the same Ship I was first imbark't in. I can give you no further account of what the English did in those Seas, but that I after∣wards heard, they did all they cou'd to way-lay the Toulon Fleet which were now on their Voyage to Brest, but that they miscarry'd in their designs, and the Renowned Tourvile brought it home in safety to the great disap∣pointment and disgrace of his Enemies.

When I came to England I was discharg'd Page  192 with the rest of the Ship's Company, and got Mony and my Liberty, and sufficient Satisfaction in what I undertook, especially if I have contributed to your Diversion, and acquitted my self of the Charge you laid up∣on me according to the desires I had of plea∣sing you, which is the Summ of all my wishes and Happiness. Adieu: