The present state of the islands in the archipelago, or Arches, seas of Constantinople and gulph [sic] of Smyrna with the islands of Candia and Rhodes / faithfully describ'd by Ber. Randolph : to which is annexed an index shewing the longitude and latitude of all the places in the new map of Greece lately published by the same author.

NEGRO PONTE, Anciently called EUBOEA.

IT Lyes to the North of Boeotia extending North West and South East about 120 miles; Its Breadth, at the broadest place not above 30. It was taken from the Venetians in the year 1471. The soil is very fertile, affording all sorts of Graine, Wine, and Oyle, as likewise Flesh and Fowl; the Sea abounding with Fish. Since the Turks have had possession of it, most of the Greeks are Fled from the Villages, and Townes; So as the inland places are mostly supplyed by Al∣baneses, who are the Shepherds, and serve the Turks at their Farmes. Formerly here were two Citys, and 500. Townes and Villages; Now there is but one, which can be called a City, which is the ancient Chalcis and now hath the name of the Island; by the Turks it is called Egriboz. It stands on a point of Land, having the Sea two Thirds about it. Betwixt it and the Maine is a small Island, with a strong Castle. From the Maine to the small Island is a bridge built up∣on six good Arches, and thence to the Maine

Castle is a draw-bridge about 30 yards Long. The Maine Castle is two miles in compass, for∣tified with six very large Towers, or Rondells; The walls are high and thick with a dry ditch to the Land, which is almost filled up with rub∣bish. To the South of the Castle is a new Platt-Forme with severall very large Gunns, which carry stone Shot of about 18 inches diameter. When I was there in the year 1676. a Renegado was taken; He was a Greek born on the Island of Candy; & turned Turk when the Vizier was at the Siege of Candy; afterwards he marryed at Scio, and lived very well; but upon some discontent he made his escape from Scio, and got to the Privateers of Malta, with whom he lived some years; & landing on this Island, he with some others were surpriz∣ed, and taken. His companions were condemned to the Gallys, but his sentence was to be shott away, out of one of these great Gunns, which was accordingly effected.

None but Turks and Jews live within the Ca∣stle, where are very spacious houses, and four which deserve the name of Seraglios; One for the Basha, at the right hand coming into the Castle from the Port; One for his Lievetenant or Ki∣ahja; a Third belonging to Ibrahim Aga's Son (of whose Father we will speak anon;) and the Fourth, to Muzlee Aga; Which are very richly set out with carved work and painting. At the

latter I was very often entertained upon the fol∣lowing account. Muzlee Aga was taken a Slave in the year 1660, & sold at Legorne, where he conti∣nued several years, and served as a Porter about the Streets, paying his Master dayly what he got. He won the favour of M^r. William Mico (an English Merchant) who besides his due, would often give him some small matter, & recommend∣ed him to others of his friends. Muzlee Aga con∣fiding in M^r Mico, imparts the circumstances of his present condition to him, telling him he had good freinds, who would redeem him, and withall desired M^r. Mico to use his interest with his Patron, to be moderate in exacting his Ran∣som, giving him a Letter, to be sent to his friends at Negro Ponte, but without his Patron's know∣ledge. M^r. Mico pursuant to his humble Ad∣dress, did obtaine his ransom on easy terms. Soon after orders came from Muzlee Aga's freinds to buy his ransom for five hundred pie∣ces of Eight, which they would pay at Smyrna. Which was short by two hundred of what was agreed for. Upon Muzlee Aga's obligation M^r. Mico frees him, and sends him to Smyrna to M^r. Richard Langly; in whose house he tarried, un∣till the remainder of the mony was sent him, which he paid, and went to his friends. I then lived at Smyrna with Mr. Langley; And now being at Negro Ponte sitting in the Coffee

house, one morning, I observed him to look ve∣ry often on me, and rising from his place he came to me, asking me what Country man I was, from whence I came, and whether I was going. I told him that I was an English man, come from Patrass, and was going to Constanti∣nople; Then, says he, you are the Man I took you for, and I thank God, that I have an oppor∣tunity to requite the kindnesses, that I have re∣ceived from your Nation. He would often have me to eat with him. In the year 1679. I was here again, coming from Athens I was robb'd by some Albaneses. Muzlee Aga gets me passage on a Lundra (built in form like a Galley, more for burthen, and sayling, than rowing) for Scio, send∣ing aboard 6 henns, 10 oakes, (an oak is about two pound eight ounces English) of white Bisket, 10 oakes of Wine, a Jarr of Olives, and a Jarr of Pettmesh, recommending me to the Reys (or Ma∣ster) saying, I recommend this man to you, when you see him, you see me, what you do to him, you do for me, and I will answer it, be it good or ill.

Notwithstanding their fine houses in the Ca∣stle, the Basha has a very large house to the NW^t. of the Castle, near the Gally Haven. In the Ca∣stle are two Mosques; the one was a Church de∣dicated to S^t. Mark. There are severall Wells, but most of the water which serves to drink is brought in with Jarrs. About a furlong from

the Castle, is the New Town very well built (after the Turkish manner) with a large Bazare or Market-place. Here are two Mosques, and se∣veral Greek Churches. The Christians here, are thrice the Number of the Turks, and Jews. The Jesuites have also a small Chappel in their house; Their care is to look after the Slaves, when the Gallys are there. Between the Castle and the Town is their Burying place, set out with many fine peeces of Marble, most of which are brought from the ruins of Athens. The Harbour is very secure against any wind, it may be said to be a Port for above two miles, the main land be∣ing so near and the ground good ankor hold. It is secured from an Enemy by the Castle, which has above twenty good Gunns planted this way. Upon the whole Island, there is but one place more, which may be called a Town, which is Castel Rosso, by the Turks called Kisil Hisar. It was formerly called Caristus, (as the Greeks still call it) standing in a deep Bay, at the SE^t. of the Island. The Castle stands on a high and steep hill, above a mile from the Sea, having a large plain, which stretcheth towards the SW^t. But affords little be∣sides Mulberry trees, whereof there are store. The Town is built stragling upon two Mountains Most of the houses are very mean, being made of red earth, dryed in the Sun. The Castle is to the East∣ward standing very advantageously to defend it

self against an Enemy. The Bay is open to the South Winds. Vessels which come from Canea, Malvasia, Napoli, Athens, or other parts, that way, and bound for Constantinople, do usually put in here to inquire for news of Privateers. For from the Mountains, to the North of the Castle, in a clear day may be seen the high Land of Scio; and no Vessel can pass the Streight of Andros, but what is seen from hence. Small Vessels use to come here for shelter against the Privateers, but have been carryed away by them in the night; to prevent which one Ibrahim Aga, at his own charge, built a Fort of an Octagon figure with two Teer of Guns, 16 Guns in each Teer. After he had finished it, an order came from the Grand Signior to have him Strangled. He had some Private E∣nemy who gave the Grand Signior to understand, that he had some bad thoughts, in building this Fort. His Estate was all confiscated; But through the intercession of great freinds it was most part recovered for the use of his Son, who lived at Ne∣gro Ponte.

To the W^t. of this Place, is a large Bay called Porto Buffolo, which is able to contain many thousand ships. A Greek Priest told me that Xerxes had here above 1500 saile of ships, and other Vessels of warr. Close by the water side, to the Eastward, are a great many marble Pillars; All ships that come to lade Velania (i. e. dryed Acorns)

carry some away. Two miles to the North of the Port are a great many ruins more, and seve∣ral foundations of walls.

On a Mountain more Northerly is a great wall, above three miles about, and close by it is a Vil∣lage called Cupa. The ruined place they told me was called Amatos. To the North are several good Ports, and there the Inhabitants live more secure than to the South. They reckon to be upon the whole Island not above 60000 soules, of which not above 10000 Turks, who most live under the command of the Castles at Negro Ponte, and Castel Rosso. Here is abundance of silks made, most of which is carryed to Constantinople, towards payment of their tribute, and Decimos. The Grand Signor's Revenue from this great Island, is about 100000 Dollars. As to the Tides motion at the Bridg, I will not trouble the Reader with the several opinions, that men have about it; only that it has been observed by several others, as well as my self, that sometimes it will pass contrary at the one side to the other, and this commonly on a Southerly wind. The next Island we come to in rank to the East is