The present state of the islands in the archipelago, or Arches, seas of Constantinople and gulph [sic] of Smyrna with the islands of Candia and Rhodes / faithfully describ'd by Ber. Randolph : to which is annexed an index shewing the longitude and latitude of all the places in the new map of Greece lately published by the same author.

The present State of that famous Island and Kingdom of CANDIA.

THE Island of Candia, which in old time (and now by the Turks) is called Crete, hath followed the other parts of the Empire of Greece, and is now subjected to the Tyranny of the Turks, after a Warr for above 27 years. In which time the Venetians (tho' in comparrison, as a flea in the beard of a Lyon, to the Ottoman Forces) did bravely, and with an unparallel'd Courage, defend the City of Candia to the last ex∣tremity. After a close Siege for near 2 years continuance, the Vizier there in person, and with him the best of all the Ottoman Forces, they were forced to surrender, yet upon the most honorable termes, that they themselves could propose; car∣rying away with them not only their Cannon, and all other amunition, but also the bells, which were in the Steeples, and whatever else they thought worth the Labour. The Vizier was so over-joyed, that the City was surrender'd to him, that he appointed several of the Turkish boats, to assist the Venetians, if they should have occasion of their help in carrying their goods to the ships. He was so observing of his word in the Peace.

that he caused two Janizarys to be put to death for attempting to force their way into the City. All Europe has heard of this great Seige, how many thousand Bombs were cast into the City; How many Mines, and Fornellos were blown up; and how many bold assaults the Turks made. They had at last workt themselves so near the Walls that it was impossible for the besieged to make use of any of their great Guns. For no sooner could a man appear to level a Gun, but there was a shower of bullets and arrows, so that the Turks would often attempt to under∣mine the Walls, and the Venetians did counter∣mine them, and when they met under ground, they fought most desperately. The Venetians have an Engine which they call trombo di fuo••••, it is as long as a half Pike, the Staff bigger: At the end are two Irons, about two Foot long, in the form of a fork; In which is fastned a trunk made of Iron, (and some are of wood) in it are five charges, each firing severally at a certain time, and carry several bullets to do execution as far as a Pistol. They set fire to it at the fore part, and have a touch, to reach from one chamber to the other. Another Invention they had to fish up the Turks, when they attempted to under∣mine their Walls. They had hooks made in the forme of a boats grapling, the points sharp, fastn'd to a rope and 4 or 5 foot of chain at the end;

These hooks they often cast over the Walls, a∣mongst the Turks, and seldom failed to bring up a Turke, some fastned by the clothes, o∣thers by the body. I have heard some of the officers say, they have taken several in a night. For when the hook was fastned, they gave them not time to unhook themselves but had them soon over the Walls, and many a Turk have the common soldiers eaten. At the Greeks leaving Candia there happned a most sad accident; a new ship called La Fregatta Galliera, or the Gally Frigot, was pitcht upon for transporting most of the Principal of the Gentry, and the greatest part of the riches of the Citizens; there was also (besides what were mounted) 50 great brass Guns, the Passengers were between 250 and 300 besides 200 Mariners and upward. Being between a little Island called Ovo, and the Port of Cerigo, the ship open'd, and not a man was saved. The rest of the Fleet got well, some to Zante, others to Ceffalonia, Corfu and Venice, landing the Greeks as they had a fancy to the place which they came to, or as they found freinds. Thus they left their Estates to the Ene∣my, and not above 5 or 6 Greeks remained, who being in years, and sickly withal, desir'd leave of the General, that they might tarry, and end their days there. In the Articles of peace it was concluded, that the Venetians should keep pos∣session

of three small Islets which are close to the Island of Candia, and have each a very strong Castle. The Turks did laugh at their proposals, saying we have the Henn, and the Chicken will follow of course, of these Isletts you shall have a further account hereafter. This Island had 20 Citys, and above 1000 Towns, Villages and large Monasterys, now there is not above 4 Citys, and 300 Towns and Villages. To give you an account of them I will begin with the eastern part. This was formerly a Province called Sittia; the head City had the same name, standing in a Bay, at the North East part of the Island, at the West side extending from the North, to the bot∣tom of the Bay Southerly, above a mile in length. The Castle stood on a rising ground to the N W^t. of the Town, built of a course Marble stone. The Venetians finding the place was not Tenable, caused several mines to be made, by which they destroy'd the Castle and Town, and so went to Candia. By the ruins it may be seen the builders had no thoughts, so soon to have left them; most of the Walls are intire and some have lower rooms with beams, which are patcht up, and serve for store houses to put corn in, when any ship comes to lade. In the year 1680 I was here and load∣ed a Sattee of Provence Captain Iseppe Bremon who belonged to Cassis about 10 miles from Marsellis. The Wheat was the Basha's own, which he sold

at 3 Timins a Killoe, (i. e. about 14^d. the Bushel.) The Turk who came with me from Candia, was an ordinary Servant. But as we travelled the Road, and when we came hither he would do∣mineer at a strange rate. Here are no Inhabi∣tants nearer then 12 miles, at a small Village cal∣led Alona, saving at a small house and Chappel, which is a Metoiki (or Chappel of ease to a Mona∣stery up in the Mountains) about a quarter of a mile from the Sea. Amongst others the Greek Priests brought their tenths, to the Turks. They all desire to have a Seaman to measure their Corn rather then the Turks; for they will stir the corn about with their hands, and press it down; But the Master was content to take it with a just measure, and Favoured the poor Greeks what he could. At Alona resides the Basha's Lieutenant, who has 100 Spahees to guard the Coast from Pri∣vateers; but more to gather in the tenths. The Greeks maintaine them, at their own charge. To the Eastward of Sittia on a point of land, is a Monastery dedicated to S^t Isidoro to which be∣longs a great Revenue, it maintains about 40 Calo∣jeros. There are several rich Lamps, and other ornaments of Silver and Gold. Here they shew you the Picture of the Blessed Virgin, which (they say) was brought by Angels from Stancoi, and was found in a cave of that Mountain. They have Lands on the Island of Rhodes, where they

have a Metoiki and several Calojeroes, to gather in the cropps of corne, oyl and wine; the Turks allowing them to enjoy it, calling it Vacofa, or possessions for Gods use, yet they will receive their tenths from it. The Gomina or Overseer of this Monastery had made his Escape, taking with him above two thousand pieces of Eight, in ready mony and plate, but being pursued, he was taken at Scarpante an Island lying in the midd way, between Candia and Rhodes, & by the Basha's order put to death. To the South of A∣lona about 10 miles is a very high Mountain cal∣led by the Turks Basha Dogg, from it may be seen the Sea, to East, West, North and South. Here are the Ruins of a Castle called formerly Barozza, 'twas built by a Gentleman of that name. It is, square, about 60 Foot high, with a tarrazzo, and battlements on the top, each square is a∣bout 40 foot. The Wall is very thick; the door about 10 foot from the ground, having a dry ditch about it. Of these there are several about the Island, as the old built Castles are in Ireland. For formerly the Candiotes, did use to Warr a∣mongst themselves, but now all such quarrells are ended by their subjection to a common Master. The City of Girapetra is to the South of the Island, having no secure Port, but an open Road, where Vessels in the Summer time may be with security from the Weather, but not from Priva∣teers;

for while I was there, they carryed away a Saike which came from Alexandria. The Town is wall'd round, and hath a small Castle which lyes higher then the Town. Here is continually a Garrison of 200 Janizaries, besides there are several Turks, who are Merchants, so that in all they can raise 500 fighting men. There is about it a very fine plain full of Olive trees and some pleasant Gardens. Their houses are well built, of good stone, the rooms very lofty; but few houses above two storie high. In the year 1675, one Monsieur Crevellier, a famous Privateer, land∣ed 500 men in the Bay of Spina Longa, travelling in the night, he came next morning, just at the dawning of the day, and found the Turks at their Sabbah namas morning prayer, so he made himself master of the Town, carryed away 200 slaves, nail∣ing up the Guns which were in the Castle. The Turks which were at the South part of the Town, betook themselves to some small Vessels, for they had not the heart to return home, to fetch their armes. Monsieur Crevellier to retreat with this great prize, resolved to kill what horses he found, securing twenty for himself, & officers, to ride at the reare; This enter prize was effected in less then six hours after they enter'd the Town, for they did not tarry to ransack the houses much. After they were departed, about 300 men, Turks and Greeks were got together, and marched a

mile or two out of town, and had not Crevellier kill'd the horses, he could never have got out of the Island. It is very strange that so many men could come with that secresy as not to be disco∣vered, and that the hearts of those Turks should be so dull'd. Immediatly they dispatch't expres∣ses to the City of Candia, Writing to the Basha that above 1500 Christians had landed, and car∣ryed away 200 Prisoners, most of them men of the Garrison; the Basha asked the messenger, if the rest of the Inhabitants were a sleep, or dead; No says the messenger, but their hearts were, be∣ing all surprized, some in their Mosques, and some in the Coffee houses, and not a man, that had his senses. Most of the horses being also kill'd. The Basha asked him how he escaped, he ans∣wered, that he had the wit to hide himself, as a great many others did. There were three Gal∣lys in the Mole at Candia, under the command of one Babba Hassan, who were sent out to look after Crevellier, but to no purpose, for they re∣turned without seeing him. Since, there is an order that the Gates shall be shut an hour before Sunn set, and not opened till an hour after morn∣ing prayers, and now there are several guards on the Mountains, besides the Basha of Candia, has threatned, the Providitore at Spina Longa, to complain to Venice if he suffer any Privateers to come into that Bay; so as for some years they

have attempted nothing. The Country towards the South is not so mountanous as to the North, and Northwest parts; having several large and pleasant plaines, which have many ruins of fine town's. To the East of Girapetra about 10 miles I went to see a Cave under the Mountain of Iro as they now call it, where they say S^t Paul preached: it is a large Chappel having 12 pillars all cut out of the Rock, which was done by the Christians in the night time. Some say it was finished in less then a months time. Close by is a Fountain where they say he used to Baptize, and it is now called S^t Pauls Fountain, the water thereof is very good, to cure such as have sore eyes. From Gierapetra to Bonifacia is 14 hours riding most in plains, very delightsome, there being very high Mountains to the North, with most pleasant valleys between, and abundance of Cyprus trees. Bonifacia stands on a rising ground, having only the Walls of a Castle. The Inhabitants are most Greeks, very poor; here is a Metropolitan who pretends to be next to the Arch-Bishop of Candia. There are two Italian Churches; the dores are made up with Walls to keep Cattle from going in. The Greeks have four small Churches, but one will contain more then all the Inhabitants. They have now new named the place calling it Mala∣facia instead of Bonifaci (good Face) it being so much alter'd from what it was in former time.

From Bonifacia to the Labarinth is about 10 miles, or three hours riding W^t, most a plain. Several men have several opinions about this building, (if I may call it so.) But one Signior Venetando, who was born in a neighbouring Village, gives this account, that a certain King of this Island, had so great a hatred for all women, that he order'd this place for his Court, and at last lived so pri∣vate that he would not suffer any to come to him but such as ruled in his stead. He would sel∣dome come out but to worship at a Temple de∣dicated to Jupiter, which stood close by it. In this Labarinth he ended his days, and had a fa∣mous Tombe built for him, the ruins of which they shew you. The Labarinth is above two miles about, being so covered on the top with earth, as it seems to be all of firm land; we entred it with two torches, and candles in Lanthornes, having a line to direct us out again. The way is plain under foot, and archt over head, some ar∣ches being about 10 foot high, some more, some less, with several windings. I made it my busi∣ness to observe if there was any thing of a build∣ing, in the pillars or sides, but found it most an entire stone, which they told me, so cemented together that indeed it appeared so. Here are a great many small places about 4 foot long, 2 broad, and 2 over, which were for burying pla∣ces. There are abundance of batts, which hang

in clusters, some are larger than ordinary. We endeavoured to fright them scorching their wings, by which we found there was life in them; their sleep is observ'd to be much more sound with a N^o. wind, than with a S^o. wind, as the spring comes on, they leave their palace. We had almost end∣ed our line, being about 100 pikes, which is above 80 yards, and then returned out, being a good hour in the Labarinth. The damps are very great; against rain it is always dropping, but very dry with Northerly winds. At the end is a lake, and they tell you, that some have attempted to go to it, and have been drawn into it. Our cu∣riosity did not invite us to see it, for were it not true, as in probability 'tis not, the noisom smells are enough to stifle one. To the South and close by, is a small Village with two Churches, which seem to have been Temples. To the S W^t, about 10 miles distant, is that famous and great Moun∣tain called Psillo Vuona, formerly Mount Ida; at 4 of the Clock it casts a shadow on the Labarinth, on it are many pleasant Monasteries with Groves of Cypress trees, and abundance of Fountains. Some say the Coast of Barbary may be seen from the top. From the Labarinth to Candia is about 10 hours riding, most in a plain, till within 10 miles of the City. At the right hand, about a mile from the road, is a most stately Monastery, dedi∣cated to our blessed Saviour, which was built by

order of the Emperor Constantine the Great. It hath always been continued to the Greeks, and kept its splendor, till the late Warr, when it was much defaced. There are abundance of Mona∣sterys, but very poor, and some are shut up for want of Priests.

Candia Novo is about 6 miles from the City of Candia Southward, being a strong Castle, having Mount Jove to the West. Here the Turks kept their Treasure and Ammunition, in the Siege of Candia. It is seated very pleasantly on a rising ground, giving a prospect to the Sea. It is now chiefly inhabited by Greeks; the Castle has a Garrison of Turks, which the Basha intended to bring to Candia, and demolish the Castle, hav∣ing writ to the Port about it; but he had no an∣swer. Candia, so famous, and generally known for the brave defence it made against the Turk, appears by the ruins to have been one of the best built Citys in the midd-land Seas. It is seated on the North side of the Island, almost midd-way between Canea and Sittia, in a pleasant Bay, hav∣ing an artificial Port, secured from the N^o wind by a Mole about 200 yards long, with a strong and large Castle at the head, called Castel del Mo∣lo having 20 great Guns. From the South is a low point of land, which runs into the Sea N^o. which secures it from the Easterly wind's, and makes the entrance not above 30 yards wide;

upon this point of land the Turks have built a co∣ver'd way, with a very thick wall, full of holes, for small shot, strongly arch't over, reaching from the Arsenal to the entrance into the Port, where is a small Fort with 4 great Guns, also ve∣ry strongly arch't over, so as no Bomb can offend it. At the right hand, at coming out of the Gate to the Mole, is a new Fort built with 4 very great Guns, which lye level with the water, over them are 8 smaller Guns. This Fort is opposite to the mouth of the Port, and is arch't over to prevent danger from Bombs, or wild fire. On the Mole, are several great Guns planted with arches over them. To the East of the Arsenal, is the old Castle called La Battaria del Arsenal, which is rebuilt, with a ditch round it, to bring in the Sea, most cut out of a firm Rock. The Port is almost round, and secure against any wind, for Gallys and smaller Vessels, but there is not wa∣ter enough for ships of any considerable bigness. It is fill'd very much with the rubbish, that the rains carryed into it, from the City, and would certainly have been choakt up in a few years, had it not been for a French Merchant, one Monsieur Dudei, who, to ingratiate himself with the Basha, caused an Engine to be brought from Marselle to cleanse it. There are the ruins of 12 Arches of the Arsenal, and about 6 Arches are yet en∣tire, but they use them only to work in when the

Gallys are there: No Gallys having been built here. The City is not repair'd towards the land, where the Walls are so much shaken, that it will require a great deal of time and cost to fortify them. From the Port towards the West, upon the Wall are 50 large Guns planted. The Fort of S^t Andrea at the N. W^t. of the City is well re∣paired, having a double wall towards the Sea. In all there are about 400 Guns planted on the Walls, and out-works, which are 6 miles in circumference. The Gates of Candia are the best I ever saw, the Arch or Gate-house being about 100 yards long, and the Gates 10 broad, the Arch is all built of firm stone. It will take up three hours to walk round the out-works. There are several mines which were never blown up; Every mine had a distinct name, I was in one mine which was above a mile in length, being about 6 foot high and three broad. All the plain for above two miles without the Walls is like a new plow'd field, where you cannot walk, but must see pieces of dead mens bones. None are permitted to walk round the works, but such as have a Licence and a Janizary with them. The Turks take a delight to give an account of the strength of the place, and especially will shew you a small Cave or arch, where the Venetian Gene∣ral did use to sleep (as they tell you) to secure himself from the Bombs. Not above one eighth

part of the houses, that formerly were, are now inhabited, very few being left entire, nor do the Turks repair any but those where they dwell; the chief Mosque is well repair'd, it was formerly a Church dedicated to S^t Mark, and stands to the E^t of the great Piazza; to the South of it are part of the Walls of old Candia, close to which are built up a row of houses, two storie high for the Janizaries. The Basha's Pallace is a little below the great Mosque on the other side of the way; opposite to it is the great Hall, formerly called La Sala di Consiglio, which is a very stately building of white Marble, with several works in Basso Relievo; to the S E^t. of it stands the Church of S^t Francisco with an entire Cloyster, which is a Mosque. The street from the Mole to the chief Piazza is in good repair, being broad and pav'd with an even stone; the houses are also well inha∣bited. But that part towards the W^t. is a heap of ruins, amongst which live the Jews, who have very large houses, but some of their upper rooms have no other shelter from the weather, but a few matts made fast upon poles. The beams of the old houses are bought up, and carryed to Ve∣nice, Zante, and other places; and being made of Cyprus wood they serve to make chests and cabinets, many of which have been brought to England. The number of the Inhabitants of the City is not reckoned to be above 10000 with

Greeks and Jews. There is a continual Garrison of 2000 Janizaries besides the Basha's guardes. Since the taking the place, they have granted liberty to all, who will come to inhabit there, but all their in∣couragement cannot bring the Candiotes to dwell there. Formerly the Plain was full of Olive trees, with delightsom pleasure-houses and gardens. Now nothing but ruins are to be seen. The City stands on a rising ground from the Sea. The houses were so built with tarrazzis, as most from the tops could have a sight of the Sea. From Candia to Rettimo is about 12 hours riding. The City stands on a point of land very pleasantly, having a Port to the East, which is almost choakt up, so as no Gally can get over the barr being laden, but Brigantines and smaller Vessels are very secure against all winds. Towards the Sea are no Walls, the Rocks there fortifying the place, so as an Enemy can only come by land. This place was the first the Turks made themselves Masters of, putting all to the Sword, to give the greater terror to the rest of the Island. Since they possest it, they have built three new Forts, towards the Sea, and a wall with a dry Ditch to landward. It is now chiefly inhabited by Turks, who trade to Constantinople considerably. The houses are here intire according to the Venetian manner of building. There are some Greeks that dwel in the City; but they have a small town a∣bout

a quarter of a mile off, where are 2 Churches, where they have free exercise of their Religion. The Country hereabout is very pleasant, full of Olive trees, and from the Sea side, the land rises easily to the foot of the Mountains of Sfacia, a∣bout 8 miles from the City, which from the Sea seems to be all a wood, from which Mountains run several pleasant streames, and one very large river called Platonico, which is continually full, being supplyed from above a thousand Fountains, which the Mountains produce. These Moun∣tains of Sfacia are abounding in all things neces∣sary for life, and nothing can be more delight∣som in the Summer time. They reach near 30 miles towards the S W^t. in length, and in some places about 10 in breadth, coming down close to the Bay of Suda. The Cheese which is made here, is bought up by the Venetians and other Mer∣chants, and transported to France, Italy, Zante, &c. It is the best Cheese that is made in any of the Southern parts, and generally as good as our Cheshire Cheeses, being made as bigg. Besides which they have great store of Honey, Wax, Silk, Wool, Cordovan-Leather, and a sort of goats Hair, little inferior to that of Angura in Asia. No Olives, Oranges, or Lemons grow here. There are above 100 Villages on these Mountains, besides several Monasteries. The Inhabitants are a Warr-like People, and withstood

the Turks above 20 years after Rettimo was taken, living as the Mainiotes in the Morea. There are such difficult passages to them, that an army can∣not march. Now at last they are brought into obedience, and by humbling themselves to the Vizier, he granted them great privileges, to in∣courage them, least they should take part with the Venetians, who have the Island of Suda so near them. As the Vizier past by in his way from Canea to Candia, they brought him several presents, which the Mountains produced; which he was so well pleased with, that he exempted them from going with him, and paying their at∣tendance on him, only he obliged them to furnish the Camp with mutton at a certain rate. Most of his own provision was carryed from hence. Sheep at three timins (about a shilling) a piece, butter at a timine the oke (a groat for two pound 8 ounces) Cheese at the same rate, and at this price they were obliged to carry it as far as the Camp before Candia, where an officer gave them an acquittance, which was abated them out of their tribute. They have a certain Drugg, called by the Venetian Oldani, much of the colour of Li∣quorish in balls, it is a very great conforter of the head, having a pleasant smell, being burnt it gives a very pleasant sent. Most of this is bought up by the Venetians, and sent to Venice. Here is also a sort of wood which the Greeks call Platte

iksillo, it burns like a torch & gives a most fragrant smell; much of it was used to burn at the Siege. Every night at the Viziers, and other great mens tents they had fires of this wood, the wood be∣ing cut small, and put into an Iron grate at the end of a pole fastned in the ground. If a man be hot in the plain, in riding two or three hours up the hills, he shall find so great an alteration in the air, as is incredible. About 15 miles from Retimo is a lovely Fountain called Bognare Bashe, standing so between two mountains, that at 2 in the afternoon it is shady, continuing so all the rest of the day. The water is so cold as will cause a dew upon any fruit that is put into it, and be one never so hot, to drink of this water it will do him no harm: In the Summer time here are always some persons of Quality, who bring their beds, and continue for several days together. The Sfacioti are a healthy, strong, and stout people, they pretend to be of a very Ancient Stock, some there are who derive their family from be∣fore the coming of our Saviour. I saw a Callojero that was 110 years of age, he was very lusty and could walk very well with a staff. Part of these hills are under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Retimo, and part under that of Canea. From Retimo to Canea, the Road is most by the Sea side passing by the Bay of Suda, having the moun∣tains of Sfacia on the left hand.

Canea is seated in a fine plain about 3 miles from the bottom of the Bay of Suda, and upon the Sea to the North, having a very fair harbour which may be called a double Port, the one be∣ing round, the other stretching away to the East∣ward; where are two Arsenals. It is secure a∣gainst the worst of weathers, The entrance is narrow, and not above 18 foot water. To the West of which the Turks have built a new batte∣ry with 20 very large Guns, and above it to the South is a great Cittadel, in which are 40 good Guns. To the East of the Entrance is another great Castle which commands the part called the Sabioniera, with the Arsenal. Round about the Port is a broad key, which is always full with merchandize, and is little inferior to the Port at Marseilles. The houses are all very well built and not much batter'd. The Walls are in very good repair, having a dry ditch about 30 yards broad, and 6 deep, from the land on the other side. The Walls are about 30 foot high; within them the earth is raised, about 10 foot higher than the Walls, there being a walk between. There is a mount which they call the Marteningo where formerly were 10 Guns, but now it is of no use. Toward the land there are 4 Bastions. To the South is the great gate called La Porti di Retimo. To the West is a mace placed on the Wall, to shew where a Basha, at the taking of the place,

first enter'd the City: before the Gate is a half moon built of earth about 20 foot high; at each end is a small Pyramid of mortar and sculls, which are the sculls of Christians, who were slain be∣fore the place in the year 1666. The Venetians then attempting to regain the place under the conduct of Marquis Vila, a Savojard, 5000 men were landed at Culatte at the bottom of the Bay of Suda, and were encamped before the City several days. The Turks sallyed out of the City, to the W^t. surprizing the Christians, and had a ve∣ry great victory, pursuing them to the Fort which was built at the bottom of the Bay. In this flight there were above 1500 killed and se∣veral taken Prisoners: amongst the latter was one Captain Scot, a Scotch-man, who had his hand upon the draw-bridg of the City; he was carryed afterwards to Smyrna in the Gally's and there redeem'd by the English Merchants: but when he came to Venice his arrears were paid him and he returned his ransom to Smyrna, which re∣main'd in bank, till another like occasion should present it self. The City is near three miles in circumference, and is much better Inhabited than Candia, having a Basha and other officers as in Candia, only in all Councils the other hath the precedence. The Country about is very plea∣sant, being all a plain for above 6 miles to the South and West, planted with young Olive trees

so that it seems to be a Garden. It is well sup∣ply'd, both with Flesh, and Fish, of the latter there is great store, for besides the Sea, there is a Lake about 10 miles to the South, which furnishes them with great variety of all sorts. The trade is much greater here than at Candia, it lying so convenient, for the Morea, Italy, and other pla∣ces. The French have a great trade for oyl, wools, wax, cheese, and several other commo∣dities, having a Consul, and two Merchants. The Venetians have also a Consul, but most of their oyl is shipped off from Suda, to which place it is brought from Retimo and other places there∣about. All great ships come to an anchor at a place called S^t Todoro, being 2 small Isletts about 5 miles to the West of the Port of Canea; there is very good anchorage, and a small Fort to defend them. On one Island, notwithstanding it seems to be all stone, and is very low, there are several Fountains of water. No Greeks live within the City. They have a new town built to the South, about half a mile off, where are two long streets, very commodious, and here they injoy all the li∣berty they desire: their Churches are open, and the Bishop hath a very pleasant house, living in good Esteem. Close to this town runs a pleasant River, which is seldom dry, There are likewise several pleasant gardens, well stock't with all sorts of delicious fruits. The Turks have also

some gardens here, but they must retire into the City an hour before Sun set, winter and summer, or else must remain out all night, the gates being then shut, and a strict watch kept about the Walls. The Turks of this place are generally ve∣ry rich, and incline to trade, giving all encourage∣ment to have Merchants come and reside amongst them. There was an English merchant here one M^r Trenchard, who was recommended to the French Consul to have his assistance, but in a lit∣tle time he grew weary of the place. Here they keep their oyl in great Vessels called Tini, which are square and made of wood, some will hold 20 Tunns. They have a special regard to preserve the esteem of their oyl, nor will they force a merchant to take any longer than it comes clear, not mixing the bottoms, as in some parts they will, by taking a hollow cane, and putting it to the bottom, by blowing through which they raise the foot of the oyl, so that thick and thin goes together. Here they sell the Foot of the oyl at an under price; and this serves to make sope. Most parts of Turky have an Esteem for Canea oyl above others. Some will have it to be the better for that the trees are all so young; others impute it to their care in the making, for here they gather all their Olives, whereas in the Morea they thrash them down with poles. The wines are generally Esteem'd above all others. The red muscadine

they call here Leattico, 'tis a richer wine than Tent at Cadize, and much more pleasant. I have seen it sold at 15 gallons for half a dollar. White muscadine is not so good as that at Luxu∣ria in Ceffalonia. Some are of opinion that in the Warr the true Muscadine grape was lost; on the Mountains there are smaller sorts of Wine, so as a man may have what sort he pleases. All sorts of Provision are very plentiful, but in the Summer time the mutton hath generally a bad tast, which proceeds from their feeding on some hearb on the Mountains. Here are Fowl of all sorts in a∣bundance; but especially a bird called Beccha Figge, which is almost a lump of Fat: they are valued about 4 for an asper, (or 8 for a penny) Turtle-doves and Quailes are very plentifull. Their Beef is small, but very sweet. Of Fruits there is no sort, but what they have. I never saw larger pears than are brought from the Moun∣tains, being a sort of Sugar pear. Their musk∣melons are very good, but their water-melons are singular. Salating there is all the year of all sorts: no place is esteem'd to have larger and bet∣ter Endive and Carduus, than there are here. I have seen Sugar canes of a great height, full as good as what are brought from Grand Cairo. There are abundance of Simples which are bought here for France and Italy. Some say the reason why no Venemous thing will live on this Island, is

the quantity of Dittamo that grows here. O∣thers say it has only been since S^t Paul set foot upon the Island. Most of the Candiotes pretend to have great knowledg in Simples. The women are experienced Doctoresses. One I have reason to say was very skilful, she having in a little time wrought a great cure upon me; For by accident a Bullet having past through my Legg, I applyed my self to her, and in 15 days she cured it. She did not allow me to eat any flesh, till it was per∣fectly well. They have several antidotes against the Plague, but they had not the effect they pre∣tended, for several of the Doctoresses were swept away by that disease, but most certain it is that af∣ter S^t John Baptists day, it did here abate, as they always observe it in most of these Eastern parts. There are several other places that have had the name of Citys, which are now heaps of ruins; many hundred stately Pallaces there were that now have only some Walls, and those most fallen down. The Candiots keep their Habit, that is the women, but the men are most alla Turches∣ca, especially the better sort. They are as Ig∣norant of the Antiquity of their Country, as the Moreotes, that have been above 200 years in sla∣very. There is no Latin Church upon the whole Island (as I was informed) but what is shut up, or converted to the Turks use. Before the Turks conquered this Island, there were above a million

of Souls, whereas now there are not 80000, of which not obove 30000 Turks on the whole Island.