A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures.

THE Second BOOK: Containing an ACCOUNT of CONSTANTINOPLE, And the Adjacent Places. (Book 2)

COnstantinople being the Chief Seat of the Ottoman now, as it was sometime of the Roman, and after the Division, of the Grecian Empire, hath therefore been still the most frequented of all these Parts, both by Men of Business and Curiosity, and deservedly the City of all others; of which, Travellers have endeavoured to give the most accurate Accounts: In doing where∣of, many of them have so well acquitted themselves, that I believe, we have not more exact Surves of any of our Neighbouring Places in Europe, than they have already obliged the World with. With∣out speaking of Bellonius, Gillius, Petro Dellavalle, Monsieur. Tavernier, we have enough of our own Country, whose Pains to this Place, and the whole Turkish Empire, merit Thanks of all Impartial and Ingenious Men; as Mr. Sands many Years since, Mr. Rycaut, who when Consul to His Majesty at Smyrna, published an exact Account of their Poli∣cy; and since his Return, other Treatises concerning this Empire: Lastly, Mr. Smith, B D. and Fellow of Magdalen Colledge in Oxford; whom, especially as to the Topographical Account of this City, I look upon to be the most Exact of any other. Therefore, knew I how to give my particular Remarks entirely separate from what hath been already written, with any satisfactory Coherence, I would spare both my Self, and Reader, the Trouble of any further Account of it, than to let them know by these Observations, That I also have been to see this so celebrated Place. But since that cannot easily be done, and that the Reader, who is desirous to have some Information about this City, as he goes along, may not be disappointed altogether of his Expecta∣tion; I shall give some Account of those Things which are there prin∣cipally remarkable, tho' it be much the same with what is already given by others; which I shall dispatch with all the Brevity that can consist with a due Observance to, and Illustration of such other Remarks of my own, as have not been taken Notice of, so far as I know, by any that have gone before me.

COnstantinople is now vulgarly call'd Stambol by the Turks,* 1.1 but by the Greeks more often Istampoli, which must needs be a Corruption from the Greek by such Unskilfulness of their Language, as I have before observed, Tither from Constantinopolis, which in Process of Time might be corrupted into Stinpoli, or Istanpoli; or rather from its being call'd, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. For the Turks hearing the Greeks express their go∣ing to Constantinople by 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which they pronounce Is-tin-polin, and oft-times, for Brevitys sake, Stinpoli; might soon ignorantly call it Istanpoli, or Stambol, according as either of them came in Vogue first. And therefore, I think theirs is a groundless Fancy, who fetch it from the Turkish word Istamboal, which signifyes a City full of, or shounding in the true Faith; the Name being so apparently of Greek original, with a small Variation after the Turkish Way, as Mr. Smith hath very well observed.

Our Modern Geographers,* 1.2 in their Maps, place this City in Forty-three Degrees of Latitude: But Dr. Covel, Chaplain to Sir John Finch, the English Ambassador, when I was there, assured us, That by many Observations made with the Astrolabe at the Aequinoctials, he found it to have only Forty Degrees, and Fifty six Minutes; which agreed also with the Observations of a late Jesuite, a good Mathematician, who lived there, and also, that Adrianople hath Forty Degrees, and Eighteen Minutes.

Constantinople is Situate on a Chersonesus,* 1.3 which hath the Propontis South, the Bosphorus East, the Harbour called by Strabo 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, now Perami North, and is joyned to the Continent of Thrace West∣wards. It is distant from the Asian-Shore about a League over the Bsphorus, and from Galata on the Northern side of the Harbour a∣bout a Mile.

It is of a Triangular Figure, two of whose sides, to wit, towards the Bosphorus,* 1.4 and the Harbour, are as two Segments of a Circle, ben∣ding much inwards to each other: The First beginning from the Pro∣montory, called now St. Demetrio, whereon Byzantium was antiently built but now the Grand Signior's Seraglio; and running thence South-East-wards, to the Seven Towers, is counted about Five or Six Miles. That towards the Harbour is about Three Miles, and the other joyning to the Continent about Four Miles: So that, it is about Thir∣teen Miles in Circumference, although they commonly count it Fif∣teen.

The Walls on Two fides towards the Bosphorus,* 1.5 and the Harbours, are built so small a Distance from the Water, that in many Places there is not room to pass between the Square Towers that jet out of it, at equal Distances, and the Sea. They are high, but look ve∣ry ruinous, and do all likelihood have been but little, if at all, repaired since the Time of the Greek Emperours; of whom we found seve∣ral Inscriptions set on high on the Towers, and many places of the Walls; as of Theophilus, Manuel, Camnenus, Basilius, Constantinus, Por∣phy••••••itus, Romanus, and Joannes Paleologus; as you may see in these Inscriptions we there copied.

1. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ
ΧΡΙΣΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ

2. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙΜΙ
ΧΑΗΛ ΠΙΣΤΩΝ ΕΝ ΧΩ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ

At the Seven Towers to∣wards the Bosphorus. † ΙΠ ΕΝ
ΧΠ ΑΥΤΟ
ΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ
ΠΑΛΑΙΟ
ΛΟΓΟΥ

Towards the Bosphorus. ΠΑΣΙ ΡΩΜΑΙΟΙΣ ΜΕΓΑΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ
ΝΕΟΝ ΠΑΝΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΝ ΤΟΝΔΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΝ ΕΚ ΒΑΘΡῶν

Ibid. ΠΙΡΓΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΠΙΣΤΩΝ ΕΝ ΧΠ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΣ ΒΑΣΕΙΛΕΙΣ ΡΩΜΕΩΝ

Ibid. ΑΝΕΚΑΙΝΕΣΘΗ ΕΠΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟΧΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΡΩ∣ΜΕΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΥ ΕΝ ΝΗΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΡΩΜΑΙΩΝ ΤΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΕΝ ΕΤΕΙ ΦΚΟΜΒ

Ibid. Near the Seraglio. ΟΝΤΗΣ ΘΑΛΑΣΣΗΣ ΘΡΑΥΣΜΟΣ ΜΑΚΡΩ ΧΡΟΝΩ ΚΛΙΔΩΝΙ ΠΟΛΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΕΦΟΔΡΩ ΡΕΓΝΥΜΕΝΗ ΕΠΕΣΕΙΝ ΚΑΤΗΝΑΓΚΑ∣ΣΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΝ ΕΚ ΒΑΘΡΩΝ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΗΓΕΙΡΕ ΕΥΣΕΒΗΣ Α∣ΝΑΞ

They are built of rough Stone, and here and there patched up with Brick, being single towards the Sea, but some part towards the Land double.

There are about Five and Twenty Gates, Seven towards the Pro∣pontis,* 1.6 Seven towards the Land, and Eleven towards the Haven.

Every way from the Sea-side the Land riseth higher,* 1.7 untill it is swel∣led into an indifferent high Hill, which runneth in a Ridge West∣wards; and hath Seven Points higher, and more Perspicuous, than the rest, Crowned with very high and beautiful Mosques, which give a most delightful Prospect to the Beholders at a Distance:* 1.8 So that Strangers are commonly swelled with extraordinary high Conceits of it; but perhaps, no Place in the World deceives their Expectation more than this; for the Streets are narrow, dark, and steep, compo∣sed of small, low, and ill built Houses, consisting of Wood, Earth, or at the best, but rough or unhewen Stone. The Private Houses are but mean and beggarly; it is only the Grand Signior's Palace, the

Mosques, Bagnos, Bazzars, and Kans, that make so splendid a shew at a Distance; of some of which, I will now speak more particularly.

So soon as we could Equippe our selves after the Turkish Mode, we were in pain to see the Grand Signior's Palace,* 1.9 whereof we had so splendid a Prospect from Gallata, and of which we had heard so great Things by Fame. For from thence its Roofs raised high more by the Advantage of the Ground, than its Numbers of Stories, con∣sisting of a great Number of Cuppaloes, covered with Lead, encom∣passed with large Gardens, shaded with Cypress-Trees, wonderfully raised our Expectation, at that Distance. The Turks call it Padisha-Seraï, signifying the Kings or Emperours Palace, Seraï signifying any great Building; and from this word, our Western Christians form Se∣raglio, which they apropriate to this Palace. As the whole City, so is That in proportion a kind of a Triangle, washed on two sides by the Sea, and se•• ••••rated from the rest of the City by a high Wall, South-West and South, which may be about Three Miles in Compass. We were conducted by a Street along the Western-Wall, till we came to the Southern-Gate; which hath nothing about it so stately, that all Ambassadours should be denominated from thence Ambassadour at our Lofty Port, as it is still expressed in all Capitulations with the Grand Signior. It is propped up on the Out-side with Two course Marble Pillars, set up with little Art or Ornament, only some old Armour is hung up on the In-side. It leadeth into a long, but narrow Court, lying in no Decent Order: At the Right-hand whereof, are some Buildings, serving for such as are Sick, in the Seraglio, to lodge till they are cured. On the Left-hand is a Building, where the meanest Servants are lodged. Beyond that is another Round Building, suppo∣sed by some to have been part of Hagia-Sophia; but I doubt, the Di∣stance is too great, to have served as a Sacristy to it, as some think. There is now some Arms laid up in it, as we observed, looking into it from a great Wood-stack piled up between it and the Hagiam-Go∣lams, or Servants Lodgings. Beyond this is another great Gate, which brings into another large Quadrangle, divided into many Irregular Par∣terrs, planted with several sorts of Trees, according as the Wayes to the several Offices direct, having a large Fountain placed in the Middle. This Court is encompassed on this side of the Gate, and the Right-hand, with a fair Portico, sustained by the tall Granate Marble Pillars; whose Capitals, and Bases, are bound with Brass, paved with Marble, and co∣vered with Lead, in many small Cuppaloes. At the Left-hand, some Distance from the Gate, is their Court of Judicature they call the Divan; where all Civil and Criminal Causes are tryed by the Vizier, or his Deputy, the Chaimacham, assisted by other Lawyers. We were not permitted to go in, but saw them only at a Distance; for none are allowed Entrance, but such as have Business. It joyns to other Build∣ings, continued up to the Side, opposite to the Gate: whence the Grand Signior can come, when he pleaseth, to a private Window, looking into the Divan, to hear the Determinations of Causes, unseen to any present; and, if he observes any Injustice done by his Officers, calls them to an Account for it; which hath many times cost them their Places, and sometimes their Lives, in other Emperours Reigns: but This hath

seldom Resided here long; otherwise from the Sentence of the Vizier, or Chaimacham, there is no Appeal, or other Remedy. The Buildings on the other side, opposite to the Gate, are low built; they seemed, at that distance, only to consist of Wood and Mortar, expressing little of Beauty or Art; the only Ornament is the Roof, built of many small Cuppaloes near together, covered with Lead. On the Right Hand of this Quadrangle, is a Gate that leadeth to a whole Street of Kitchins and Stables, whose Roofs are all covered with Lead, and beautifyed with Cuppaloes. The Kitchins seem too stately for the Turkish Cooke∣ry; whose chief Dish is only Rice, half boyled with a Hen, which they call Pillau. I saw not many fine Horses in the Streets, because the Grand Signior was at Adrianople. The inmost Court of the Se∣raglio, beyond the Third Gate, and the Womens Appartment, is kept Secret, and to Christians inaccessible, except upon extraordinary Oc∣casions. Beyond them, to the point of the Promontory, are the Gar∣dens, which towards the West also, reach up to the great Gate. They speak of Fountains, and great Curiosities in them; but unseen to us. We were carried upon the Top of the Wood-pile, at the West End of that round Building, supposed to belong to Hagia-Sophia; whence we could look over the Wall, into the Gardens: The greatest Ornaments we could discover, were the tall Cypress-Trees; but set in no good Order: And as to Knots, Flowers, and other Delights of that Nature, I could discover none. They speak of an Egyptian Obelisk here; which we should have been glad to have seen, but more of the Li∣brary, reported to be in the Seraglio; and in that more particularly of T. Livius, that is said to be there entire: But we were told, That it could never be found, although vast Sums of Money have been offe∣red to the Bustangi Basha for it.

When we had seen as much as we were permitted, of the Seraglio, we returned out by the same way we came; for although there be some other Gates, yet they are not for any ordinarily to pass out and in at, but kept still fast.

Our Curiosity led us, in the next place, to see the great Mosques;* 1.10 which are indeed very Magnificent, and Splendid. The first, near the Seraglio, is Hagia-Sophia, or Sancta-Sophia; the Turks having continu∣ed the Name, although they have robbed God of the Honour once paid Him by the Christian Worship in that Place: For it was once a most Magnificent Church, built by the Emperour Justinian, and dedicated to Christ, the Wisdom of God, by the Title of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. On the Western End is a large Portico, the Breadth of the whole Fabrick, which you enter into by the Three great Doors; and is ceil'd with Mosaick Work, containing several Historical Figures out of the Holy Scripture, but somewhat defaced by the Turks. This leads into the Church, by Five large Brass Folding-Doors, which is a most Magnifi∣cent Fabrick, ceil'd again with Mosaick Work, paved with several sorts of Marble, Porphyry, Serpentine, Jasper, and Figures of Inchased Work. It is a very great Length, and is crowned towards the East End, with a vast Cuppalo, sustained by four massy Pillars, encrusted as are all the Walls, with a whitish Marble. The great Cuppalo is encompassed by small ones somewhat lower. St. Peters at Rome may excel this Cup∣palo

in height, but not in Breadth nor Beauty. Four very tall and slender Steeples, they call Minorets, are placed by the Turks about it; one at each end of the Portico, and the rest on each side the Cup∣palo, ranging square to each other. But for these Spires they have added, they have taken very much more from it; if it reached former∣ly, as is thought, to the Seraglio. It is vaulted underneath, which now serveth for a Cistern to receive the Waters from the Aqueducts, whence it is conveyed about the City by Pipes. This is neither kept so well in repair, nor adorned as the other Mosques built by the Sul∣tans: Therefore I will defer to describe its Furniture as a Mosque, till I come to another more Magnificently adorned.

About Hagia-Sophia,* 1.11 some distance from the Outward Gate of the Seraglio, are many of the Sepulchers of the Grand Signiors. They are little square Buildings, of white Marble, and covered with Cuppa∣loes. Within are placed their Tombs, encompassed with a low Rail, or Grate. The Emperour lies in the middle, in a large Chest of Mar∣ble, made bigger towards the Head than Feet, covered with a Pall of Silk, and sometimes Embroidered; Wax-Candles stand one at the Head, and another at the Feet, of the bigness of a Mans Leg, and about a Yard long: Their Wives and Children lie about them in Chests of the same Shape, but less according to their Age and Bigness. The Males are distinguished from the Females by a Turbant, set up at the Head of each Tomb; the Females have only a Pall on theirs. Those Chil∣dren that have been Strangled by the succeeding Emperour, are distin∣guished from the rest, by a Handkerchief tied about the Staff, holding up the Turbant. These Sepulchers are frequented by poor Men, who have an Alms allowed them for saying Prayers for the Souls of the Deceased, which they number by long strings of Wooden Beads, as big as Musket-Bullets; being placed there, and wound up on great Rolls for that purpose: For not only the Latines, but the Greeks and Turks use Beads in their Prayers; but the Two last tell them over the fast∣est: For the Latines consist of a Circle of different Prayers; but the Greeks use only 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Lord have Mercy upon me; and the Turks either a word in their own Language to the same Effect, or another signifying God be praised. We went into Three or Four of these; but the most melancholy Sight, was that of Sultan Hackmet, who (they told us) had an Hundred and Twenty Children all destroyed by the succeeding Emperour, in one day, and lie there Buried about him.

From the Southern-Gate of the Seraglio, and Sancta-Sophia, goeth the fairest and largest Street of the whole City, quite through it West∣wards, passing by the Northern-End of the Hippodrome, and so to Adrianople-Gate. This Street is adorned with several of the Monuments of the Viziers and Basha's, who have highly merited of the Emperour either in the Wars or Government. Among which, we observed one with the Cuppalo, covered only with a Grate of Wyer; of which we had this Account:* 1.12 That it was of Mahomet Cupriuli, Father to the pre∣sent Vizier, who settled the Government, during the Minority of the present Emperour, very near Destruction, through the Discontents and Factions of the Principal Hagaes, and the Mutinies of the Janizaries. Con∣cerning whom, after his Decease, being buried here, and having this

stately Monument of white Marble, covered with Lead, Erected over his Body; the Grand Signior, and Grand Vizer, had this Dream both in the same night; to wit, That Cupriuli came to them, and earnestly beg'd of them a little Water to refresh him, being in a burning heat: Of this the Grand Signior and Vizier told each other, in the Morning, and thereupon thought fit to consult the Mufti, what to do concern∣ing it; who according to their gross Superstition, advised that he should have the Roof of his Sepulcher uncovered, that the Rain might de∣scend on his Body, thereby to quench the Flames tormenting his Soul. And this Remedy the People who smarted under his Oppression, think he had great need of, supposing him to be tormented in the other World, for his Tyrannies and Cruelties committed by him in This.

[illustration] Hippodrome scene

Lib: II. Fig: I

From Hagia-Sophia, we were Conducted by this great Street,* 1.13 to the place Achmet-dam; which was antiently an Hippodrome, or a place for Horse-racing. It is about Five hundred and fifty ordinary Paces long, and about an Hundred and twenty broad, and was adorned an∣tiently with several excellent Ornaments; of which only Three Pillars remain for me to give you an Account of.

The first is a Pillar of Egyptian Granite Marble,* 1.14 consisting of one Stone about Fifty Foot long, and erected on a Pedestall of Eight or Ten Foot above ground; but how much under, I know not. The Pillar is four square, ending on the Top in a Cone, and is engraven on the four sides with many Todd Figures; and therefore hath deservedly obtained the name of the Hieroglyphical Pillar: For those Figures are really the Hieroglyphicks of the Antient Egyptians; to the Interpretati∣on of which, our Modern Learning will not reach. It is probable, this Pillar was brought hither by Constantine the Great; who was very di∣ligent

in Adorning this City, that it might in all things equal Old Rome. But after, by Time, Earthquakes, or other bad Fortune, it was tum∣bled down; It was again set up in Thirty-two dayes, by the Emperour Theodosius, as the Two Inscriptions on the East and West-sides of the Pedestal, the one in Latine, and the other in Greek, informed us.

ΚΙΟΝΑ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΧΘΟΝΙ ΚΕΙΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΧΘΟΣ ΜΟΥΝΟΣ ΑΝΑΣΤΕΣΕ ΘΕΥΔΟΣΙΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ
ΤΟΛΜΕΣΑΣ ΠΡΟΚΛΟΣ ΕΠΙΚΕΚΛΕΤΟ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΣΟΣ ΕΣΤΗ ΚΙΩΝ ΗΕΛΙΟΣ ΕΝ ΤΡΙΑΚΟΝΤΑ ΔΥΩ.

In Latine thus, on the other side:

DIFFICILIS QUONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS
JUSSUS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS
OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDUNT SOBOLIQUE PERENNI
JUDICE SUB PROCLO SUPERAS ELATUS AD AURAS

On the North of the Pedestal, is a Basso relievo, expressing the man∣ner how this Pillar was set up; and another below that, representing the Hippodrome, as it was before the setting up, with the manner of their Horse-racing. It appears with four principal Pillars, with a vacant place in the middle where this is now set up, which made the Feet all equally distant one from each other. The ordinary Stadiums of the Antients had but Three Pillars, being but One hundred and twenty five paces long; which is a great deal shorter than this From the First Pillar they started their Horses, having the word ΑΡΙΣΤΕΥΕ, or Courage, written on the Pillar, given them. At the Middle they were called upon to make haste, by the word ΣΠΕΥΔΕ, which was written also on the Pillar. At Last they were to return riding about the Pillar on the further end; therefore, it had the word ΚΑΜΨΟΝ engraven on it. By this Basso-relievo, is expressed the Running of the Hor∣ses, and the Emperour standing in the middle, crowning the Victor: But what that held up by Four Pillars, and the other single round Pillar were for, we could not conjecture; unless only for Ornament. Higher upon the middle part of the Basis, are other Basso-relievoes en∣graven on the Four sides: On one is the Emperour Theodosius, hold∣ing a Wreath in his Hand, with a great Croud of Souldiers about him. On another, is represented a great Company, rejoycing with Musick of several sorts. On another, is represented the Emperour, seated on a Throne with his Two Sons, Honorius and Arcadius, attended on by the rest of his Nobility: But our time would not permit us to de∣signe any more than what I have given you.

At the Southern End is another square Pillar of white Marble;* 1.15 but composed of many pieces, raised on a Pedestal of the same: The Top is broken off, and the rest looks ready to fall down. There is an In∣scription on the Basis, which we could not copy, by reason of some Houses built about it, said then to be infected with the Plague: But Mr. Smith had the Opportunity to do it, and hath Printed it in his Book after this manner; whence, by his Permission, I will take it.

ΤΟ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΘΑΥΜΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΤΑΡΣΙΩΝ
ΧΡΟΝΩ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΝΥΝ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ
Ο ΡΩΜΑΝΟΥ ΠΑΙΣ ΔΟΞΑ ΤΗΣ ΣΚΗΠΤΟΥΧΙΑΣ
ΚΡΕΙΤΤΟΝ ΝΕΟΥΡΓΕΙ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΛΑΙ ΘΕΩΡΕΙΑΣ
Ο ΓΑΡ ΚΟΛΟΣΣΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΗΝ ΕΝ ΤΗ ΡΟΔΩ
ΚΑΙ ΧΑΛΚΟΣ ΟΥΤΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΕΣΤΙΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ.

This Square wonder of high things being run to decay by time, was renewed by the Emperour Constantine, Son of Romanus, the Glo∣ry of Scepter-Bearers, excelling the Old Spectacle: For the Wonder Colossus is at Rhodes, but this Brazen Wonder is here. Why this is cal∣led ΧΑΛΚΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ, the Brazen Wonder, I cannot imagine; un∣less the Brazen Pillar, now standing between This, and the Obelisk, should have been sometime set on the Top of this.

[illustration]

Lib: II. Fig: II. Brazen Pillar

For between these standeth another Pillar of Brass,* 1.16 of about four∣teen or fifteen Foot high. It is cast in the form of three Serpents wreathed together until the top, where their three Heads part, and bend out∣wards, in a Triangular Form; whence some have thought it a Tripus of Apollo, others a Charm against Serpents; but what it was more than an Ornament to this place, is uncertain: But certainly, if it stood on top of the other last recited Pillar, it made a wonderful show, and might de∣serve those swelling Epithetes on the Inscription, which in my Opini∣on, was so; otherwise, that Inscription agrees not with that Pillar, which consisting only of pieces of Stones masoned together, could not deserve so much praise: To which I may add, this brazen Pillar appears not in the Basso-relievo on the Hieroglyphical Pillar.

This Place is now bounded with Houses, and Buildings, on all the four sides; among which, on the West, it hath one side of the Old Seraglio, where the Women of the deceased Emperours are kept re∣cluse, till the dayes of their Deaths; or, at least, bestowed on some Favourite Basha, of the Succeeding Sultan.

[illustration]

Lib. II. Fig. IIII. The new Mosck or Achmet's Mosck

To the Eastern-side of the Hippodrome,* 1.17 one End of Achmets Mosque is joyned, which is the most Magnificent of any at Constanti∣nople: Therefore, I think it worth my pains to describe its Form as well as I can, though I have not the Exact Dimensions of it.

From the Hippodrome, we were conducted into a great square Court, I believe twice as long as broad; which is inclosed with Four Ranges of low Buildings, but covered with Lead in many small Cuppaloes, which makes it look very graceful. Part of these serve for Lodgings for their Iminanes, or Priests, that belong to the Mosque; part to en∣tertain such as have been Pilgrims to Mecha; and part for sick and in∣digent People. In the Middle of this great Court, is built the Mosque it self, exactly square, having another square Court on the Western-side of it, which makes the whole oblong. This Court hath Three Gates, which are mounted up to by a dozen of Steps; and is en∣compassed within with a Cloyster, sustained by antient Marble Pillars, of several Colours. In the middle of the Court is a Fountain, covered over with a Cuppalo of gilded Wyer; whence the Water descends to many Cocks, on the Southern-Side, without this Court, convenient for them to cleanse themselves, according to their Superstition. Before the great Entrance is a Portico, sustained likewise by stately antient Marble Pillars, having a Soffa at each Hand, for the People to sit, and do their Devotions under; and where the Profession of the Mahometan

[illustration] floorplan of Ahmed's mosque

Lib. II Fig. III.

Faith is written in Niches, in the Walls. Between these is the great Door, consisting of folding Leaves, covered with Brass; which lets you into a Magnificent square Building, covered with a great Cuppalo in the Middle, sustained by Four white Marble Pillars, Seventy of my Spans about; whose heighth I judge not to be above double the Dia∣meter. These Pillars are chanelled, but not after our Mode, which is carved deep into the Stone, whereas these are carved in Relievo, or Stripes, sitting higher than the rest of the Stone; but look altogether as Beautiful.

To this middle Cuppalo, are joyned Four half Cuppaloes, of the same Diameter with the middle one; but much lower: to which, a smal∣ler Cuppalo being fitted to each Corner, the whole square Area is co∣vered in a most splendid manner with Lead, adorned on the Top with gilded Globes, and Spires, sustaining so many Crescents, the Badge or Ensign of the Ottoman Empire. It is flagged also within with white Marble, and paved in like manner.

To all this, are erected Six exceeding hig, and slender Steeples or Spires, which look like our Pillar at London, built in memory of the Fire. They are chanelled also, but end in a gilded Spire, sustaining a Crescent. They are placed Two at the Western-Corners of the Court, Two at the Front of the Mosque, and Two behind. About the middle of each of them, there are Three Balconies, or Galleries, one above the other; to which their Priests ascend by a winding pair of Stairs, to sound forth their shrill Voices, at several Times of the Night, and Day, to call the People to their Devotions. These also, at their Feasts, New Moons, and solemn Occasions, they hang round with Lamps; which being lighted at Night, make a very splendid. Show at a distance; as I of∣ten observed from Gallata: they being lighted almost every Night whilst I was there, by reason of the Plague then raging in a more than ordinary manner.

This is the only Royal Mosque I observed to have Six Spires; the rest have Four a piece, or at least Two; but the ordinary Mosques have usually but One. This Mosque is adorned within after this manner: The Floor is covered with fine Indian Mats, and Turkey-work Car∣pets; because they slip off their Papuchas, or Shoes, when they go in to do their Devotions. The Roof, Seven or Eight Foot from the Ground, is hung with many great Circles of Lamps, one within ano∣ther, intermixed with Lustres, or Balls of Glass; and several other pretty Curiosities, which, when lighted at their Evening Devotions, must needs make a splendid Show. There is a Chair, with a Desk on the Left Hand, where the Mufti reads, and expounds the Alcoran; and on the other Side, there goes up a little narrow pair of Stairs, on the Top of which they read their Prayers. Between these, and on the East, or South-East-End, is a place made in the Wall, formed like a Niche, to set a large Statue in, with the Bottom even with the Ground. On each Hand of this Niche stands a very great Wax-Candle, in a pro∣portionable Brass Candle-stick. Within the Niche, in Arabick Chara∣cters, is written the Form of the Mahometan Profession of Faith. To∣wards this they alwayes turn their Faces, when they say their Pray∣ers; which, I believe, is towards Mecha, their Prophets Tomb; because,

when they turn a Church into a Mosque, which stands due East and West, they alwaies make such a Niche on purpose, on the Southern-Wall, as I observed in S^t John's Church at Ephesus, and the Temple of Miner∣va at Athens. This is called the New Mosque, although several very stately ones have been built since; especially one lately by the Sulta∣ness, Mother to the present Emperour, situate upon the Harbour, near the Garden-Gate; which, although it be not inclosed within an out∣ward Court like Achmet's, it is nevertheless very Magnificent, and hath its peculiar Beauties and Ornaments: For although its Architecture be not according to our Rules, it wants not either Beauty or Regu∣larity. Its Figure, Roof of Cuppaloes, Court and Fountain, is like the former; as also, the tall and gilded Spires, although not so many in number. The square Court before it hath a Fountain, and is also surrounded with a Portico, sustained by Beautiful Pillars of divers co∣loured Marble, some white, some speckled; but the Two at the En∣trance into the Mosque, are of Jasper, admirably well polished, and proportioned. But this was not done by the Turkish Art; but of an∣tient Times being brought from the Ruins of Troy, or Alexandria. The Walls and Pillars within, are faced with blue and white Purat Tiles, as the French King's House of Pleasure at Versailles, called the Trianons, is without. The Frize that rangeth about the Cuppalo with∣in, is plain; but well proportioned, and of white Marble. The Glasses of their Lamps, making a second Roof within, by the many Circles one within another, are adorned with Flowers; which kind of Paint is not forbidden by their Law, as that of Animals is. They are intermixed also with Glass Balls, curious pieces of wrought Ivory, gilded Vessels, models of other Mosques, and many other pretty De∣vices; which must needs make a most splendid Show, when the Lamps are lighted at their Night-service: But this is too dangerous an At∣tempt, for a Christian Curiosity to venture to see. Although at other times, by-vertue of a small Reward to the Keeper, you may see any Mosque there. On each hand from the Entrance, is a Gallery sustain∣ed by Marble Pillars, the Floor being strewed with Carpets and Mats; and having a Pulpit or Desk-stairs, to read Prayers, and a Niche, to∣wards which they pray, as Achmet's, and as indeed all other Mosques have; for the Ornaments are much the same in all, only the Difference is in the Cost, Beauty, and Magnificence: So that, when one hath seen the Two or Three best, one hath seen more than all contained in the rest. Therefore, this shall suffice for the Description of the Mosques.

There are Six more of these Royal Mosques, whose Names are Su∣leymania, situate near the Old Seraglio South, and the great Street North, and the Hippodrome Eastwards: Of this I took no particular Notice; but Mr. Smith saith, It is paved with large Tables of Por∣phyry, and its Cuppalo sustained by Pillars of the same. Beyond which West-wards, stands Bajazets. On another high Hill standeth Shahza∣deth, or Shashdads, which is the Fifth. Mahomet's the Sixth. Selim's the Seventh, who took Egypt. Phati-jame the Eighth, which was for∣merly a Christian Church, dedicated to the Apostles, and allowed the Patriarch for the Patriarchal Church, upon the taking of the City;

but was afterwards seized upon again by that Tyrant, and prophaned by the execrable Impiety of the Imposture, against God, and His Christ.

[illustration]

Lib: II. Fig Historicall Pillar

From the Hippodrome we walked a good way South-wards, to see another antient Pillar of white Marble; which,* 1.18 because it is carved from top to bottom, with a Basso-relievo, expressing some War-like Actions of the Emperour Arcadius, is therefore called the Historical Pillar. It hath a winding pair of Stairs, to go to the Top of it; but they are much broken; so that, we could not have that Satisfaction. It is very like those at Rome, of the Emperours Trajan and Antonine; but I will not compare its Basso-relievo to theirs, for Excellency of Work: Although great Art hath been shewn, to make the Figures ap∣pear of an equal Bigness to the Eye, at all the Distances; and, to give it its due, is far better than the usual Carving of these latter Times. The Heighth that P. Jilius took of it, was One hundred and forty se∣ven Foot, which excels that of Trajan's by Nineteen Roman Feet; but Antonine's Pillar is higher than this, by thirteen Foot. Three sides of the Basis are carved with Trophies; and, on the Northern-side, I sup∣pose, was an Inscription; but quite eaten away by that penetrating Wind. On the South-side, on the highest part of the Basis, in a Wreath, sustained by two Victories, is the Labarum; which is a Knot, consisting of the first Letters of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which the Christian Emperours, from Constantine, placed in their Banners, instead of the Roman Eagle. Below that, are the Effigies of the Emperours, Honorius and Arcadi∣us; to the Honour of whom this Pillar was Erected, crowned with flying Victories, and accompanied by many of their Nobility. On the Third Rank are several Victories; some Leading, and others Driving;

several Figures, each crowned with a Crown, much representing so ma∣ny Cities conquered by those Emperours.

[illustration]

Lib: II. Fig: VI. Porphyry Pillar

West-ward of the Hippodrome,* 1.19 in the great Street, leading towards Adrianople, stands a high Pillar of several pieces of Porphyry, bound about the Joynts, with Hoops of Brass. It hath suffered much by se∣veral Fires, happening near it; and thence, now it is called the Burnt Pillar. It was brought hither by Constantine from Rome; but after∣wards, being tumbled down, it was Re-built by Manuel Comenus; as we learned by an Inscription, engraven round the top; which, by the Help of a small Prospective Glass, we read, and thus copied:

† ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ ΕΡΓΟΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕΙ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ
ΚΑΙΝΣ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥΣΕΒΗΣ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ.

[illustration] pillar

Lib: II. Fig: VII.

Our Guide, to shew us the Curiosities of this Place, told us,* 1.20 He knew of another Pillar in the City, which no Stranger had yet seen; in which, I believe, he told true; for I find none that have taken notice of it, before us: It is the Monument of the Emperour Mar∣cianus, as the Inscription on the Basis informed us; although hard to be read, by reason the Letters were made of some Mettal; which is all picked off, and the Holes only, with some strokes of the Letters, now remain. The Basis, and Pillar, is of Granite Marble; but the Ca∣pital is of white, and of the Corinthen Order. On the top is an Urn of white Marble, carved at the Corners with Eagles. We judged, it might contain his Heart, because the Burning of dead Bodies was never used by Christians. The Inscription intimates, that the Statue of this Emperour was there placed, I suppose, on the Top of the Pillar, on the Urn; and that Tatianus erected this Monument, who was undoubt∣edly the same that assured him, he should be Emperour, when as yet he was but a private Souldier; having with his Brother Julio, seen an Eagle sit over him, and shadowing him from the Sun with his Wings, when he was fallen asleep in the Field, being wearied with Hunting: For which, so soon as the Event verified the good Omen, he made Tatianus Governour of the City, and Julio he made Governour of the Province of Illyria. Zonaras gives him the Character of an Excellent Prince; in whose time Arsenius was Patriarch of constantinople, and by whose Command, Favour, and Protection, the Fourth General Council was assembled, and held at Chalcedon; wherein the Heresies of Eutyches and Dioscorus were condemned, and the Verity of the Divine and Humane Nature of Christ, without Confusion of Substance, was asserted. This Pillar is now standing in the Court of a private House,

joyning to the Bath of Ibrahim Basha, near the Odas of the Janizaries, which is about Mid-way between the Hippodrome and Adrianople Gate, not far from the great Street.

When we were in this part of the Town,* 1.21 we went to see the Quar∣ters of the Janizaries, which are two great Buildings near together, without any great Beauty or Ornament; but capable of receiving of a great number of Men; where all that Order ought to inhabit toge∣ther, and live Batchellors: But now they leave off the strictness of that Discipline, great part of them having only their Names enrolled in their Books, and receive the Grand Signior's Pay; but Marry, follow Trades, and reside in their own Houses, up and down the Town. They are two oblong Courts, with a small Mosque, or Chappel, in the middle of them, where those that reside there, daily do their Devoti∣ons.

Instead of Inns in Constantinople,* 1.22 and indeed all over Turkey, they have publick Buildings, they call Karavan Serais, or Kans, erected in convenient Parts of the City for the Markets, and Traffick of diffe∣rent Commodities. These are for all Men of what Quality, Conditi∣on, Country, or Religion soever; and there the Poorest have room to lodge in, and the Richest have no more: As to their Beds and Entertainment, they must bring and provide them themselves, or lodge on the Floor, or (at most) on a Mat; which, in some Kans, the Kan-keeper is obliged to provide.

They are of two sorts; the old Fashion ones are but like a great Barn, without any Partitions, or Distinctions of Rooms or Lodgings: They have only round the Wall, a Bank raised about a Foot and half high from the Ground, kept from falling down by a Wall of the same height, paved on the Top, and about seven or eight Foot broad. At four or five Yards distance round the Wall, are placed small Chimneys: Between which, they lay their Beds; tying their Horses, and giving them Meat at their Feet.

But the other Kans, of later Building, and in great Cities, are more stately; they are usually built in the Form of a Quadrangle, with Two, and sometimes Three Stories one above the other; covered with so many Leaded Cuppaloes, as it is divided into Appartments, of about ten Foot square; where each Company keep their Concerns private to themselves, with as great Convenience as their manner of Life will permit. And about them, there are commonly Attendance; who, for a small Vale, will provide you such things as you have Oc∣casion for. So many Stories as they are high, so many Galleries are built one above another, round the Kan, into which these little Cham∣bers open.

These Kans look very stately without, and are not ungrateful to the Sight within; They are usually built of Stone, having a large Gate to enter into them; and in the middle of the Area, is built a small Mosque, or Chappel, to do their Devotion in; supply'd with Water both for Religious, and Necessary Uses. In my Opinion, they might be accommodated to the Use of our Christian Countries. For the ge∣nerality of Inns, Taverns, and Ale-houses are grown such Places of all manner of Debaucheries, that I am sure, they are become the Shame of

our Religion, if not of the Policies of most Christian Countries: For they not only harbour Prophaneness, Luxury, and Debauchery; but are the Receptacles of idle and slothful Persons; and indeed, of Out∣lanes, Thieves, and Robbers: Their Keepers extorting for their En∣tertainment, Rates without Reason or Modesty; and, in a word, are the Destruction of the Souls, Bodies, and Estates of many Thousands, not only of Poor, but Rich also; and when all this is done, they oftner die Beggars, than Rich Men themselves: Whereas, if such Pla∣ces as these were erected in convenient Places of the Roads, in Cities, and in Market-Towns, and put into the Hands of honest poor Men, to serve Strangers, Travellers, and Tradesmen: Poor Men might do their Business with greater Expedition, and less Charge; carry home their Gains to their Wives and Children, and not spend them before they return from Market. Here Rich Men might have provided for the necessary Conveniences of their Journeys without Extravagances, have Opportunity to be Charitable, and by their Examples of Devo∣tion, and Christian Behaviour, give Glory to God their Creatour, and mighty Redeemer: especially if they had Chappels and Chaplains, with a convenient Stipend annexed to them.

The Exchange, which they call the Bazar, or Bezestan,* 1.23 is also a Beau∣tiful Building, roofed with Cuppalo's, covered with Lead, sustained by many Arches and Pillars within, and is situate toward the Western part of the City. The chief Trade in it, consisting in Fur-Gowns, Vests, fine Saddles and Bridles, Semiters, and other Armour. We soon wished our selves out of it; it was so crouded with Brokers that sold old Cloaths, we apprehended were of those who dyed of the Plague.

The Publick Bagnios, or Baths,* 1.24 are none of the smallest Ornaments of this City. These are usually placed near their Mosques, because they use them in cleansing themselves, according to their Superstition, as well as for the Health of their Bodies; being their chief Remedy in all their Diseases, as really they are the best Physick of their Coun∣try. We went to see only one of these near the Mosque of the Sul∣tan's Mother; because the Plague was so much in the City, and these much frequented by the Infected. They have a Room without, with a Sopha round it, to undress themselves; and a large square Room beyond that, covered with a Cuppalo, thorough which the Light is let by Bell-glasses; and about it are many little Appartments, cove∣red with small Cuppalo's, much resembling that built in London; only they have usually a great Bason in the Middle, filled with hot Wa∣ter, into which they go to bathe themselves.

We crossed the Water one day, to see the Antient Aqueduct,* 1.25 that joyns the two Hills together; on which the Mosques of Suleman, and Bajazet stand; of which we had a fair Prospect from Gallata. It is built strong and high, with large Arches one above the other, in the deepest part of the Valley: but is now dis-joyned from the Eastern Hill, and of no present Use. The Water being now conveyed about the City by Pipes under Ground: But the Aqueducts, that bring the Water to the City, are very Magnificent; of which, more hereafter.

We took a Barge another day, and went to see the Seven Towers,* 1.26

as they call a Castle situate in that Angle of the City nearest the Pro∣pontis, because it bath so many eminent Spired Towers.

In our way, we put a Shore on the Seraglio point; where towards the Bosphorus is a Plat-form, planted with a great many Cannons, the Spoils taken in their Wars from the Christians, and Persians; some we observed with such a vast Bore, as are capable to fling Stones of near ten foot diameter: Near this Point we observed several Rocks and Shelves, lying but little below the Surface of the Water; which must needs be very dangerous to any Vessels, that either by the Wind or Current shall be drove upon them. When we came to the Seven Towers, we were not permitted Entrance, by reason that a Knight of Malta had made his Escape thence not long before; whereupon it was ordered, that no Franck should enter there any more. We were only permitted to go round it; and all we observed, was an antient Gate, looking towards the Propontis, adorned with Basso-relievo's on oblong Tables of white Marble. On one is the Fall of Phaeton, on another Hercules fighting with a Bull, on another Hercules in combat with Cerberus; and on another, Venus coming to visit Adonis sleeping; with some others we knew not what they signified. This Gate is now quite stopped up, and no Entrance that way. Hard by, over a little Gate of the City, which from the Bosphorus leads to the Seven Towers, we observed this Inscription, with the Letters curiously joyned to each other in knots, hardly to be explicated:

ΑΝΕΚΑΙΝΙΣΘΕ ΕΠΙ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΤΩΝ ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΝΗΤΩΝ
Π ΘΙΛΟΧΡΙΣΤΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΝ ΔΕΣΠΟ ΤΩΝ ΠΕΝ ΕΤΕ Κ. Φ. Κ. Α.†

Which imports, that the Gate was rebuilt by Basilius and Constantine Porphyrogenites; Emperours in Christ, the year —

This Place looks not strong enough for a Castle, but is sufficiently so for a Prison; which is the Imployment they now put it to, and that only for great Men, or great Malefactors, like the Tower of London.

So soon as our Convenience would permit,* 1.27 we went to wait on the Patriarch of Constantinople, who was then named Parthenius; to de∣liver him the Present of Books, which we had received from the Proto∣pappa of Corfu for him; and to see in what state so great a Prelate of the Church lived, and was reduced to. His Palace and Church is at a quarter of the Town called Ballata, which must not be mistaken for Gallata: It is situated near the Western Corner of Constantinople, ad∣joyning to the Harbour, and is allotted to the Patriarch and Greek Christians. We saluted him at his coming out of the Church, accord∣ing to the Greek Custom, with low Reverence, kissing his Hand, or Chappelet; first putting it to the Mouth, and then to the Fore-head. His usual Habit differeth not from the ordinary Caloyers, or Monks of the Order of S^t Basil; out of which the Bishops, and Patriarchs are chosen; it being a black serge Cassock, or Vest, down to the ground, a black Cap, with a black Cypress, or curled Scarf wound a∣bout it; as the other Bishops and Egoumeno's, or Abbots, often do

wear. He liveth but obscurely; his Palace being no better, than the worser sort of our Parsonage Houses. The Patriarchal Church is but a small, obscure Edifice, without any great Ornament or Beauty. For the Greek Church is trampled upon here, as well as in all other the Turkish Dominions. They keep in it part of the Pillar (they say) our Saviour was tied to, when scourged by Pontius Pilate.

The Patriarchs depend on the Grand Signior, both as to their Spi∣ritual and Civil Jurisdiction: For they are likewise Judges in Civil Matters, between Christian and Christian. They buy this Dignity dear, and possess it with great hazard: Yet so ambitious are the Greek Cler∣gy of it, that the Bishops are always buying it over one anothers Heads, from the Grand Vizier; who desires no better Sport, than to see them strive who shall bring most Grists to his Mill. They pur∣chase this Dignity with very great Sums of Money; which are a∣gain to be pressed out of the poor Greek Christians: and when obtain∣ed, it is no longer secured to them, than till the Ambition of another Bishop offers more for it, or impeacheth this Incumbent with Crimes sufficient for a Pretext to dispossess him: Which the Vizier greedily catcheth at, (right or wrong) to the Ruin of the present Possessor: Yet the Bishops are still canvasing for it; insomuch, that in the space of five Years, they had changed the Patriarch five times; some of them being executed, and others having made their Escape; of whom I saw one at Zant, and another (they say) is at Smyrna.

The Authority which they thus obtain by Simony, they maintain by Tyranny: For as soon as they are promoted, they send to all their Bishops, to contribute to the Sum they have disbursed for their Pre∣ferment; and such as deny, they depose, and send others to their Charge. Again, the Bishops send to their inferiour Clergy; who are forced to do the same to the poor People, or to spare it out of their Wives and Childrens Mouths. But many times they engage for more, than they can perform; and bring the Church so much in debt to the Turk, that its Ruin is daily threatned thereby; which, without God's great Mercy uphold it, cannot long subsist. I was informed, that Patriarch Parthenius was then owing fifty Purses of Dollers, each Purse containing five hundred; which amounteth to twenty five thousand, making in English Money about six thousand pound: which to raise in the great Poverty that Church is in, will be a greater dif∣ficulty to him, than it was to be made Patriarch. We had but a short Conference with his All holiness, which is the Title they give him in Discourse, viz. 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. As to their ordinary Bishops, they say 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, your All-priestship, or 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, your Beatitude; and to every inferiour Priest, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, your Holiness, &c. We desired to see his Library, hoping to find many good Manuscripts in it: But he informed us, That he had but few, or no Books at all: though in a Paper-shop hard by his Door, we bought about twenty or thirty antient Greek Manuscripts; of which I may perhaps at some other time, give the World an Account.

It would be pertinent in this Place, to give some short View of the State, and Religion of this Church: But that Subject having been so amply and ingenuously handled by Mr. Smith, and Mr. Ricaut, I

shall only at present make some Remarks on their Opinion of the Eu∣charist; which has been so much and long controverted between late Writers of the Romish and Protestant Church: and that I shall do with the same Sincerity and Frankness, as I had my Informations from Bishops, Caloyers, and other Religious Men of that Communion, with whom I conversed in several places of my Journey.

The Eucharist, or Holy Communion, is the Sacrament, in which they shew most of their Devotion; it being the chiefest Part of their Religious Worship; wherein they express the whole Mystery of the Gospel, as the Death, Passion, Resurrection, and Ascension of Jesus Christ into Heaven.

They use ordinary Leavened Bread, made in form of a Loaf, and stamped upon the top with the Sign of the Cross, in this man∣ner:

[illustration]

Lib: II. Fig: VIII

✚ ΙϹ ΧΡ ΝΙΚΗ

Which signifies Jesus Christ overcame. This they cut out of the Loaf, at a little Altar on the right hand of the other; which they call Pro∣thesis, and bring it cover'd to the great Altar, which they call 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or the Holy Table: Where, after several Ceremonies and Prayers, as may be seen in their Liturgies, the Priest breaks it into four pieces: one of which, nearest to him on the right hand, he him∣self takes, and putteth into the Hollow of his hand, and covering it with the other, saith a Prayer to himself, bowing his Head and Body very low: Afterwards, standing up right, maketh the Sign of the Cross with both his hands so closed; and after bowing, putteth it to his Mouth with both hands, without looking upon it. Then he putteth the rest of the Bread into the Cup; of which he giveth with a Spoon

both Bread and Wine together, to any that will Communicate. If there be none, he taketh it all himself, not leaving any to be set by: For they Consecrate once a Year only, to Communicate to the Sick; and that is done on the day before Good Friday. This Consecrated Bread, being dipped in the Wine, is dried again, and kept in a Bag or Box, in some convenient place of the Church, for such Occasions, without any Respect performed to it, that I ever observed in the true Greek Church: By the True Greek Church, I mean those that are not mixed with the Latins; as they are at Corfu and Zant, and most pla∣ces under the Venetian Dominions.

As to their Faith concerning this Mystery, I cannot take upon me to determine: For it hath been a Question well handled already between two learned Men of the Roman and Reformed Churches of France, viz. Monsieur Arnauld, and Monsieur Claud; by whom Authors have been examined with much Diligence on both sides: Wherein Monsieur Claud seemeth to be victorious from their Writings, and the Reports of Travellers of this last Age: Though by a new Confession, brought about by the Marquess de Nanteulle, French Ambassador now at Constantinople, (who with great Zeal did prosecute that Design) Monsieur Arnauld seemeth to triumph: Of which the World will have an Account one day, I hope, from Dr. Covel, who was Chap∣lain to the English Ambassadour, Sir John Finch, at the same time when that Business was acted, and hath particularly informed himself about it. Monsieur Arnauld perswades the World, That they do believe the Real Presence, and Transubstantiation: Monsieur Claud affirmeth the con∣trary.

However, I think, it is an hard Question to determine of their pre∣sent Faith; and of very little consequence, unless they could prove that they ever did believe Transubstantiation: which will be impos∣sible to be done, as is apparent from what Monsieur Claud hath writ∣ten concerning that Subject. It will be very difficult to prove it their present Belief, because they are so very unlearned, that they hardly know the Principles of their Faith; and I could not find, that Tran∣substantiation hath been heard of, except amongst those that have con∣versed with the Roman Church. Of little consequence I say: For, What Argument can it be against the sure Foundations of the Reformed Churches, to have prevailed upon the gross Ignorance of that poor de∣pressed Nation, by imposing those Opinions upon them, as if they had been from the Beginning the Doctrines of their Church, and where∣in they ever agreed with that of Rome. This Fruit indeed, the Semi∣naries (and Missioners from them in all places of these Parts) may bring forth: And it were to be wished, that the Protestant Princes had been as diligent to have informed them in the Truth. But it is the Fortune of the Children of Darkness to be cunninger in this World, than the Children of Light.

I had not very frequent Opportunity, to examine this Matter well; but where I had, I commonly did. At Corfu and Zant; they are most certainly of the Roman Opinion, as to this; although professed Ene∣mies to the Roman Church, and Pope, in the points of Infallibility, and Procession of the Holy Spirit. At Tine they are most of the Roman

Religion; and the Greeks use their own Liturgies and Ceremonies; but are governed by a Latine Bishop. Micone hath a Greek Bishop, and is subject to the Patriarch. The Bishop of it, then reigning, came to Constantinople with us; but for want of Language, I had but little discourse with him: But he had a Priest waiting on him, that spoke Italian; with whom I sometimes discoursed. He talked, as if he had never heard of such Doctrine; much less believed, that the Bread by Consecration was really changed into the Body of Christ; and seem∣ed plainly to understand a Mystical and Spiritual Sense in it.

At Athens I often conversed with the Arch-Bishop, who was then one called Antenos. He affirmed to me, That he was present at Constan∣tinople, when the Patriarch signed that Writing to the Marquess of Nanteulle, that he was one of that Assembly himself, and that they believed according to that Writing; wherein the Article of Transub∣stantiation is expressed by that word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, though I do not find, that ever that word was known till then, to the Greek Church:) I asked him, Whether he did not understand it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, (Spiritual∣ly?) he answered no; but 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Corporally; that is to say, Christ was corporally in the Sacrament.

Whilst I was at the Convent of S^t Luke's by Livadia in Boeotia, there happened to come thither the Bishop of Salona; with whom I had frequent discourse upon that Subject. He seemed desirous, when I told him, That I was of England, to know the Faith of our Church; of which, when I had given him the best Account I could, he told me, that it was the same with theirs: For I informed him, That we believed the Holy Scriptures, the Apostles Creed, the Nicene, and that of S^t Athanasius; That our Church was governed by Bishops and Arch-Bishops; That our Faith was conformable to the Primitive Fa∣thers, and the first General Councils, until the first five or six Centu∣ries; and in fine, That we were not of the Roman Church. After this, I asked him their Opinion concerning the Holy Sacra∣ment, and what they held the Bread and Wine to be after Con∣secration; he answered, The Body and Blood of Christ. When I asked him, How that could be? he gave me this Explicati∣on; As the Sun is in Heaven, and yet gives Light and Heat to the whole Earth; so Christ, although in Heaven, yet was in the Sacra∣ment by his Divine Power and Influence. I told him, That that was as we believed; which was, that Christ was in the Sacrament after a spiritual manner. He said, It was the same the Greek Church believed; and was so obliging to me thereupon, that he would needs have or∣dained me Priest the next day; which, as it is really the most ho∣nourable Employment a Christian can be capable of; so amongst them it is most highly esteemed: and I had much adoe to excuse my self, by acknowledging my Unworthiness of so great an Honour.

This was the general Judgment of that whole Covent, and of an Hermit, that liveth about a Mile from thence in great austerity, and held by them to be a Saint. There was a Father, who was Native of Zant; but came away from thence so young, that he was not imbued with their Prin∣ciples there. When I asked him, Whether they believed that the Bread and Wine was changed into the Body and Blood of Christ? he answe∣red

me, Whether I thought them so much Beasts, as to believe such an Absurdity? The only thing they seemed most to dislike in us, and our Religion, was, That I would not make any Reverence to the Pi∣ctures that are in their Churches; which they always do, when they come to their Devotions. They never kneel in their Worship; but bend their Bodies down to the Ground, making the Sign of the Cross with their right hand, first on their Head, then on each side of their Breasts, and then down to the Ground, as they bow.

I believe that this Convent, and the most inland Parts of Greece, are yet free from that Opinion of the Roman Church, and have not been tamper'd with by them.

I have made no other Remarks of the Turks Religion,* 1.28 but what have been already observed. Mr. Watson, a Scotchman, who hath tra∣velled those Parts for four or five Years together, and hath perfected himself in the Turkish and Arabian Languages, surprized my Compa∣nion and me with an Account he gave of their Learning, beyond the ordinary Opinion of the World. He assured us, That at Constantino∣ple there was a Bazar (or Exchange) for Manuscript Books (for they suffer no Printing) of different Sciences, in the Turkish, Arabian, and Persian Languages; the two last beeing their learned Languages, as Greek and Latin are in Christendom; but that it was dangerous for Christians to frequent them; as Monsieur Spon was made sensible, when we passed by Prosa. For seeing some Arabick Manuscripts, he would have cheapned them; but was reproachfully sent away with the Name of Goure, or Infidel.

Mr. Watson assured us, that they keep annual Registers of all things that pass throughout the whole Extent of their Empire; and of the Wars they have with their Neighbouring Countries: That one might have a Copy of these Annals in five or six great Volums, for Two hundred Crowns: That there are Historians and Writers, who have a Salary for writing, in the Seraglio: That there was another good Book to be had, concerning the Government of the Ottoman Empire; and that he himself had bought a Chest full of Turkish and Arabian Books; among which he had many very rare pieces; as one of Chek-Bouni, an Egyptian, concerning the Vertue of Divine and Human Words, full of Figures and Lines; by which he pretends to do abun∣dance of curious tricks by Anagrams.

Another that sheweth the Theory of the Cabalistick Art. A Dictio∣nary in Turkish and Arabick: A Book of Songs, wherein there are many very antient ones, as of Avicen and Albucherche; Turkish and Persian Grammers, with Alphabets of all Languages. A Book of all the Revo∣lutions of the Kingdom of Egypt, written by a Cheke, or Doctor of Grand Cairo, a great Astrologer; whose Predictions have alwayes pro∣ved so true, that when Sultan Selim made War against the King of Egypt, all that King's Counsellors told him, That it was but Folly to resist, (although he had a very puissant Army, consisting of Moors, Arabs, and Mammalucks) because, according to this Book, Selim was to con∣quer Egypt: which accordingly came to pass. He shewed us also a Book, that he said was a Calculation of the several Degrees of the

overflowing of the River of Nilus, regulated according to the Mo∣tion of the Planets, especially of the Moon; by an Arabian Doctor. Another of Chiromancy, more curious than those of John Battista Porta: In which the Author pretends, That the Characters of the Hands are Letters; of which he gives the Alphabet. He also told us of another, called Bauraan, an antient Author, containing abundance of Chimical Experiments; commented on by a Cheke, who was a Moor, with whom he was acquainted at Grand Cairo: Where he assured us, there were abundance of very considerable Persons, who applyed them∣selves to this Study, and most other Sciences. At another time, he shewed us the History of Tamerlan in Arabick, more ample than that Translated out of the Arabick of Alhacen. Two Books of Talisman's, teaching their Principles and Practice; out of which he affirmeth, That Monsieur Gaffarelle had borrowed all he had written in his Book of Ʋnheard of Curiosities: That Hugo Grotius had stollen all his Prin∣cipal Arguments for the Truth of the Christian Religion out-of Ara∣bian Authors; and particularly, from the Works of an Eminent Man, whom the Latins hold to be an Arch-Heretick: But the Cofty's, a Saint, who wrote an excellent Book against the Turks and Jews, for the Truth of the Christian Religion. And what is more to be wondered at, he assured us, That he had seen an antient Book of Astronomy, which did suppose the Magnetick Needle; although he did not apply it to Navigation, but to other Astrological uses. He shewed us also a general History of Grand Cairo, and a Description of all the Churches of Constantinople, at the time it was taken by the Turks; both writ∣ten in Arabick. Lastly, He told us, That both at Grand Cairo and Constantinople, there were publick Professors, that taught Astrology, A∣stronomy, Geometry, Arithmetick, Poetry, the Arabian and Persian Lan∣guages.

When we were at this Corner of the Town,* 1.29 we went to an old Building, they say was Constantine's Palace; which stands upon the highest Ground, on that side of the City; for from the Harbour to it, is an Ascent, and thence towards the Seven Towers the Ground a∣gain descends. What remains of it, expresses no Magnificence; being only a long Stone building, with a Hall sustained by Pillars, and some Rooms over it.

Without the Walls, from hence to the Seven Towers, on the Brow of the Hill, is a good Walk; but the Valley West-wards of it, being only the burying Place of the Turks and Jews, makes it somewhat Melancholly. Among these, here and there towards the Haven, are some Monuments of Turks of Quality, of white Marble, shaded with Plane Trees, and Cypress Trees.

Here we went to see that of Sultan Eliub,* 1.30 near the Harbour, whom they esteem as a Prophet, and great Saint; and therefore, it is frequent∣ed by the Zealous Turks, with a great deal of Devotion. The Tomb is covered with a kind of Canopy, hung with Green, and many Lamps continually burning about it. Without is a small Quadrangle, with a Portico and Gallery encompassing it, and a little Chappel in the middle. Here the Grand Signior is inaugurated, only by the Ceremony of a Sword girt about him by the Mufti; signifying that his Authority con∣sisteth

in the Power he hath obtained by that, and by that must still be maintained. We observed near this Angle of the City, where the Water falls into a Cistern, and thence conveyed into other adjacent Parts of the Town.

There are no Suburbs of Buildings contiguous to Constantinople,* 1.31 the Walls standing, being bare all round the three sides; but instead thereof, it hath over the Water great and populous Towns and Cities; which we observed with great pleasure in our Return, as they lay all in view round about the Harbour: Whereof the North-side of Constan∣tinople, encompasseth the South, and South-West Shore. To which Scutari, on the Asian Shore, seems to be joyned East-wards; and to Scutari on the Thracian Shore, Tophana, Fondoucli, and Gallata: And to Gallata, some Suburbs appertaining to it, where they kill their Meat; beyond which are Buildings, and dry Harbours, to keep the Gallies from the Weather in the Winter. These bound the Har∣bour on the North-East, North, and North-West sides. All these Buildings rising by Degrees, higher and higher, from the several Shores, to the tops of considerable high and steep Hills, make the Har∣bour look like a vast Naumachia, giving a most Magnificent Spectacle to the Beholders into it. At the further end, which lies North-West∣wards, a small River of fresh Water emptieth it self; whose Banks are adorned with several pleasant Gardens, and shady Trees. But the Beauty is not the only Excellency of this Harbour; for I believe, it also excells most in the World for Security and Capacity. It hath more depth than is needful, good Moorage, and so bold a Shore, that the greatest Ship may be tyed by the Bolt Sprit on Shore, at Gallata, and unlade; and yet have several Fathoms of Water under her Keel. And I have observed some Merchant Ships lying with the side so near the Shore, that they went on Board, and on Shore, by a Plank be∣tween them. Which I was sorry to see, one being a Genuese infect∣ed with the Plague, that lay within fifteen or twenty Yards of our Lodging; being a Building on the Harbour, separated from all others, without the Wall of Gallata; which our Landlord had provided us, upon the first notice of the Infection seizing on the House adjoyning to his, within the Walls: For it was at Gallata we lodged, during our stay at Constantinople, at the House of an honest Jew called Abram Finch, who served the English Nation in Business, and us, both in the nature of Guide, and Drayoman, better than most Turks could: But when we made Visits to any of Quality, we took also a Janizary; and this was, because we had no Letters of Recommendation to any other; not thinking of going any further than Athens, when we first under∣took this Voyage from Venice. Besides the Plague being there so hot, we judged it unreasonable to intrude our selves into the Houses of any of our Country-men, since our Curiosity led us every where, with∣out consideration of Danger.

Gallata is situate upon the South-side of a considerable steep Hill,* 1.32 jetting out into a Promontory on the North-side of the Harbour; and comprehending the Suburbs on the East, West, and North-sides of it, may be counted a good large City, and very populous. Yet the Circumference of the Walls take up no great space of Ground; but

the Houses are thick, and the Streets narrow, and the whole very populous. On the top of the Hill, is a round spired Tower, covered with Lead; and on the Wall we observed some Arms, and modern Inscriptions, which upon inquiry, we found to belong to those of Ge∣noua; who sometime before the taking of Constantinople, were Masters of this Place.

This City is peopled more by Christians and Jews, than it is by Turks: And here is the Scale of the Merchants; who have a good Kan, covered with Lead in Cuppaloes; where they expose their Wool∣len Cloaths, they call Londros, and other Merchandize to sale.

On the North-side of Gallata,* 1.33 without the Walls, are the Suburbs, called by the Greeks Pera; which signifies beyond: by which Name they sometimes comprehend Gallata, and all the adjacent Habitations, being beyond the Harbour from Constantinople; and therefore they call that Passage Perami, Trajectus, or the Passage; and the Boats that carry them, Peramidia. There is one good large Street running North∣wards, with several that cross it; and there dwell the foreign Am∣bassadours, Residents, and Envoys.

Sir John Finch, His Majesties Ambassadour at the Port, was then at Adrianople, to have his Audience of the Grand Signior; and did not return hither, until about a Week or ten days before our Depar∣ture. But so soon as he did, he gave us frequent Opportunities of wait∣ing on him; and obliged us not only with his learned Conversation, but with many useful Informations also.

We often went to visit the Marquess of Nantel, Ambassadour of France; who with great Courtesie, entertained us with the Curiosi∣ties of his Travails. He hath there about thirty Marbles, with antient Inscriptions, and Basso-relievo's, brought from Athens, and the Isles of the Archipelago; of which he permitted us to copy what we would. He hath also a great Number of Medals; among which are some ve∣ry singular. He shewed us abundance of Designs of Edifices, Basso∣relievo's, and Prospects of Countries, drawn by a Painter he still car∣ried with him in his Travels in Turkey. All which, I hope, he will publish at his Return into France.

Dr. Covel, then Chaplain to His Majesty's Ambassadour there, among many Curiosities, shewed us some Turkish Songs, set to Musick; which he told us, were both for Sense and Musick, very good; but past our Understanding. They were set by one Hulisbey, a Renegado, brought up in the Seraglio. His Native Country was Poland, and Christian Name Albertus Bobovius. He was made a Slave when young; and now, dismissed from the Seraglio, is become a principal Drugger-man, and can speak (they say) seventeen Languages. If I remember right, Dr. Covel told me, It was the same, that gave Consul Ricaut much light in his Treatise of the Turkish Empire. The Marquess of Nanteul hath a Description of the Seraglio written by him in Italian, with many other curious things. Dr. Covel also shewed me many rare Medals, and antient Entaglos or Figures, cut on several sorts of precious Stones; as also, many Descriptions of rare Plants and Animals; which he had curiously designed himself, being in that Art very ingenious, as well as a learned Divine.

We went sometimes to see an English Surgeon,* 1.34 called Mahomet Basha in the place Atmeydam; who informed us, That he was taken young, and made a Slave, and brought up in the Mahometan Religi∣on. Here we saw the Turks come to take Opium, which they call Affion: They take it without any Preparation; it being meerly the Juyce of Black Poppy dried in the Sun, without any Purification: And it is wonderful, that Use should make that which is Poison to us, a Cordial to them. The ill Effects that it hath upon them, is, that the immoderate Use of it in time doth dose and stupifie them, contracts the Nerves, and makes them so round shoulder'd, that they become crooked. We saw many such; and were told, That it was the im∣moderate use of Opium, which made them so. This Surgeon, Ma∣homet Basha, makes a good Turkish Physician; although his Skill ex∣ceedeth not the making of Conserves and Syrups, letting Blood, and some few good Wives Receipts. He hath some few ordinary Books in English, Italian, and Latin, and one in Arabick, which he much com∣mended; but how well he understood it, I am no competent Judge.

We informed our selves also of the Rusma, or Chrisme of the Turks;* 1.35 wherewith they used to take off the Hair of the Body without sha∣ving: For neither the Women nor Men, that pretend to Neatness, suffer any to grow upon their Bodies. They have two sorts of it: One they make of quick Lime, and Orpiment; which they boyl to∣gether with Water, to the consistence of an Oyntment: The other hath Lime, mixed with a kind of blackish Stone, that cometh out of Egypt, soft and pory, like a Pumice-Stone, and looketh something like Cinders of Iron; some of it cometh from a place near Prosa in Na∣tolia. This they prepare like the other; and apply it, when they are at the Baths: and the Bath-keepers take great care to take it off, so soon as the Hair begins to come off easily. Then washing the place with hot Water, and rubbing it with a course Cloth, bringeth all the Hair off without doing the least Hurt. We bought some of it at Constantinople, where it is very cheap.

Constantinople is a place that aboundeth with all sorts of Provisions, whether Corn, Flesh, or Fish; only Wine is scarce, by reason that it is prohibited. But though there be none permitted to be sold in the City, at Gallata are some Christian Cabarets; but the Wine is dear. They sell it by weight here, and all over Turkey. The Oka, which is a weight of about forty two Ounces, is sold here for a quarter of a Doller, that is about fourteen Pence, and contains about three Pints and an half, or two Quarts. The best Wine is made by the Jews, who by their Law must not make Mixtures. They have great plenty of ma∣ny sorts of good Fish. Oysters here are better than I tasted them any where, except in England. The Sword-Fish is another I took notice of for its Goodness, and firm fleshy Substance. Their Fruits are ex∣cellent; Figs, Peaches, and Apples, very fair and good. The Turks are very sweet-tooth'd, and love all kind of sweet Meats: But I cannot commend them for good Confectioners. They preserve Fruits with new Wine boyled to Syrup, Honey, and sometimes Sugar; which although they are not ill-tasted, would hardly pass with our English

Ladies, they are so ill-colour'd. Their most ordinary Drink is Wa∣ter; next, a Sorbet made of Raisins steeped in Water. But the Richer sort have Sorbet made of Sugar and Honey boyled to a consistence with the Juyce of lemons; which they mix with Water, when they use it. Coffee they drink at any time, but at Meal; and is the usual En∣tertainment, when any come to visit them.

About a dozen or fifteen Miles North from Gallata,* 1.36 towards the Black Sea, we went to see a place, which from the Beauty and Plea∣santness of it, is called Belgrade. The Country lies high, shaded with abundance of Woods, watered with many wholsom Springs, stored with several sorts of Game, accommodated with several small Villages, at convenient Distances, and the Air very good and healthful. To these shady Woods, many Persons of Quality, as well of the Turks as Ambassadours, and rich Merchants; retire to enjoy the fresh Air in the scorching Heats of Summer, and to hunt at the proper Seasons of the Year.

Here some build them pretty Houses of Pleasure, others stately Chiosques, or Banquetting-Houses; and others content themselves to sojourn in Tents, they stretch out under the tall Trees, near some refreshing Spring. All these Springs are with great Care, and greater Charges, collected into several large Cisterns; near each of which is built a stately Chiosque, or Summer-house. The usual Form of them is square, contrived so with large Pent-house-Roofs for shade; yet so open round about, that one enjoys all the Liverty, Freshness, and Goodness of the open Air, without the least Inconvenience from the heat of the Sun. You mount up to them by four or five Steps, to an Area paved with Purcelane Tile or Marble, covered with Indian Mats or Carpets, with Balusters or Rails about it. The Roof also within, is painted with several Colours, as red, green, white, and yellow; and pretty Knots of Figures wrought on them.

From these Cisterns, the Water is conveyed by Channels under ground, to the several Aqueducts, that carry it by many Windings and Turnings over the low Valleys, from the tops of Hills to Hills; until at last it is brought with a vast Charge to Constantinople. Se∣veral of these we observed, both in our way thither, and return to Gallata:* 1.37 Especially, one about mid-way, joyning two Hills together cross a Valley, at least half a Mile over. This consists of two Ranges of Arches; whereof the lowermost hath fifty, and the uppermost fif∣ty one; and I believe, from the deepest part of the Valley, to the top of the Aqueduct, is above thirty Yards. There is another in sight of this Eastwards, which bends and makes an Angle: This hath three Ranges of Arches one above the other, but not so many in number. North of this first, we saw another, which joyns two Hills together by a narrow, but very deep Valley. This hath but four Arches in two Tanges, but the Arches are exceedign large; I measured them not: but Mr. Smith saith, They are above fifty Foot wide. The Care of these Waters, and the cleansing of these Aqueducts, and Channels, are imposed upon the adjacent Villages; for which service, they are freed from all other Taxes. Most of these Aqueducts were built by the latter Roman and Greek Emperours: But by Time, Wars, and Neg∣lignece,

being run to decay and ruined, they were repaired again at the great Charge, and indefatigable Industry of Sultan Suliman; who for this, and the stately Mosque he built in the City, was deservedly called the Magnificent. These Waters being thus brought to the City, are again collected into several great Cisterns; and thence again, by earthen Pipes, dispersed to the several Quarters, private Houses, and publick Buildings of the City: Whereof one is against the wall of the City by Ballata, another under Hagia-Sophia; and Mr. Smith speaks of one at Sultan Selim's Mosque.

The Plants I took notice of hereabouts, were 1.* 1.38 A kind of Dwarf-Abrotonum, with Flowers like Cammonil. 2. A sort of Serpillum, with Leaves like Savoury; the Smell also differing from ours.

[illustration] flower

Lib: II. Fig: Ix Androsoemum Constaninopolita••um, flore maximo.

I found another Plant going thither, and to the Black-Sea also; which I know not to what species to refer, unless to Androsemum majus which we call Parks-Leaves: For the Leaves are of the substance and colour, only longer, and of a more tough Substance, growing two by two, on a shrubby square Stalk, of a reddish colour, not rising from the ground above a span high: On the top of which succeedeth a large yellow Flower, much bigger than Parks-Leaves, filled with a large Tuft of the same; our of which, before the Flower is fallen, beginneth to rise a long Vessel, divided into five Appartments full of reddish Seeds. The Smell is like the best Turpentine; but more fra∣grant, and like Coris. Of it I observed two sorts: The difference is only, that the other by pairs cross each other. It spreads upon the Ground in heaps; so that seldom one shall find one Stalk a∣lone.

Since my writing this, I find that Dr. Morison hath described this Plant in his excellent History of Plants, having raised it in the Bo∣tanick Garden at Oxford, of which Science he is the Learned Pro∣fessour, out of the Seeds I sent to that University; and hath named it, Androsemum Olympii montis flore & semine Theca quinque capsulari ominum maximus: which is extreamly well distinguished; only he should have put in Byzantinum or Constantinopolitanum, instead of Montis Olympii; as he hath done lately in a Letter to me, with the Design of the Plant I here give you.

I also there saw some Trees of Guaiacum Patavinum; which were shewed us as a Rarity at Pera.

We waited a good while for a calm Day, to go to the Mouth of the Black Sea, to see the Pillar vulgarly called Pompey's Pillar: For the North-wind reigns much in that Sea; and when it bloweth, there is no passing a∣gainst it, and the Stream. We took a good strong Boat, with six Oars; and left on each hand, as we were turning the point of Gallata, many Villages, whose Situations are very pleasant, with Rocks, Hills, and Promontories, covered with Chesnuts, Olives, and Cypress Trees; be∣sides many of the Basha's, and other great Mens Seraglio's, or Houses of Pleasure. I never saw more beautiful, nor greater Variety of Pro∣spects; where the Motion of the Boat each moment changeth the Scene. On the Thracian Shore, from gallata, are these: viz. Topha∣na, Fondukli, Bechikroash, ORtaqui, Corout, Schesme, Arnaudqui, Bubel∣bakchisi, Eski-hissar or Old Castle, Bartoliman, Stegna, Jegniqui, Thera∣nia, Boindore, Sariier, Fanari: where is a Light-House just within the Mouth of the Sea, on the right hand; and on the Shore of Natolia, beginning from Scutari, are Cousch-couiouk, Stauros, Chenguetqui, Con∣la bakchisi, Candel-bakchesi, Eski-hissar, or Old Castle of Natolia: both which defend these Streights from Incursions from the Euxin, or Black\Sea, Guiosqui, Chiboucli, Inguirliqui, Oncliar, Skelosi, Beicos, Salicevroun, Joro, in old time Fanum; because probably it was a Light-House in those times. a little without the Entrance, on the left hand, is the Rock whereon standeth the Pillar. It is of the Corinthian Order, up∣on a Basis, and both of white Marble; upon which is an Inscription, that sheweth it to have been dedicated to Augustus. But it is imper∣fect, and so worn with standing bleak to the Winds, that to make any more of it, is past the Skill of the Antiquaries; some calling the last word PONTO, and some FRONTO. The other Lines are imperfect likewise: For at the beginning is a part of a Letter, that may be taken for either a C, or an O. If the first, it must be C. CAESARI AVGVSTO. But otherwise only, the end of a word, as by the E in the next line, seemeth very probable: And Mr. Sands maketh it it to be DIVO, as probably it was: So that the first line may be DIVO CAESARI AVGVSTO.

As to the next Line, I would conclude with Mr. Sands, That it is L. CLANNIDIVS, If I could have found any such Name among the Roman Families: But I find only Annidius, And besides my own, Monsieur Spon's, and Mr. Smith's Observation, make the first letter an E; and must therefore be the last letter in a word; as in many Inscriptions I have seen E written for ET, and then I would put a

point between C L. and Annidius; and then it would be for & Clan∣dius Annidius: For C L. is put for Clandius, and not CLAƲ. except there is a Praenomen before it.

The last line is as much travers't as any. The first two letters that Mr. Smith makes L E. are undoubtedly L. F. Luci Filius; as it is in Mr. Sands, Monsieur Spon's, and my own Observation took upon the Place. As to the rest, there is room enough for every one to have his Fancy. mr. Sands makes it CLAPONTO, which Mr. Smith interpreteth CLAS∣SIS I PONTO; and so maketh it the Payment of a Vow of some, that had safely conducted their Navy through this dangerous Sea. Mon∣sieur Spon makes it CLA. FRONTO.

But what it can so signify, I cannot tell. It is true, RONTO is plainly to be read; but the next Letter is very much defaced; but I fansied it to be another R, whcih I marked down in my Book with points: the first long stroke is entire, and plain; but for the rest of it, one hath much adoe to make some worn-out Marks hang together. As to the A, the L, and the C, ordine retrogrado following, they are plainly to be read. So that, if I were to be its Restitutor, I would write it

— DIVO CAESARI AVGVSTO
— E CL. ANNIDIUS
— L. F. CL. ARRONTO

I find the Family Arruntius in Gruterus, in many Inscriptions; and O for V might be an easie mistake of the Graver, in so remote a Country, if not of the Person himself: And we know, that Let∣ters were not every ones Talent in those days. And to conclude, I believe the Basis upon which this Inscription is, was not made for that Pillar, because they bear no proportion one with another. It has been, in my opinion, a round Altar, being carved about with Wreaths of abundance, sustained by Bull's-heads. The white Pillar (which I judge about ten foot high above it) might have been erected upon it, to serve for a Sea-mark by day, as the Lanthorn at Fanari doth by night: Indeed, I should think it any thing, rather than a Pillar erected to Pompey. The Rock on whch it stands, is one of the Cyaneae, or Symplegades of the Antients; fansied to float, because sometimes seen together, as they thought, seeing them from several Stations. But some of them are placed on the one side of the Entrance of the Bosphorus, and some on the other. Mr. Smith counted four on the European side: But the North-wind beginning to rise, we were for∣ced to ruturn soon after the viewing of the Pillar.

In our return, about six Miles from the Pillar, we stopped to see a Greek Church, upon the highest of the Hills on the Thracian Shore, called Mavronides. It is a place of very great Devotion among the Greekes, and payeth no Taxes to the Grand Signior; only a few Cher∣ries for his own eating. The reason of which they told us was this: The Grand Signior being a hunting at Belgrade, and eagerly pursuing his Game this way, lost his Attendants, and came to this place; where being weary, hot, and dry, he alighted to repose and refresh himself;

and demanding Water of the poor Caloyers, who knew him, one of them readily brought him some Bread and Water, and fresh-gathered Cherries, which are there excellent good: at which he seemed very well pleased, and told him, That if he would change his Religion, he would promote him to great Honour. But the poor, yet faithful Christian, resolving not to part with his Faith, would he have given him his Empire; and knowing he could give that proud Tyrant no Answer that would please him, and secure his Conscience void of of∣fence, on that Subject, made no Answer at all; but fixed his Eyes up∣on the ground, notwithstanding all he could say to him. At which he greatly wondering, and admiring his Constancy, told him, That for this Service, that Place should pay no Caratch, only some Cherries yearly to the Seraglio, for his own eating.

A little before we arrived at Gallata, I took notice of a dangerous Rock in the Chanel, lying piked above Water not more than four or five Foot; which must needs be very dangerous for those Vessels, that pass that way by night.

One day we cross'd over the Bosphorus, to see Scutari, and in the Passage put a shore on the Maiden Tower as they call a little Sconce, fortified with a few pieces of great Guns, built upon a Rock about the middle of the Chanel, but rather nearer the Shore of Natolia. All that it is remarkable for, is, That although it be but a Rock, not much above thirty Yards about, encompassed by the Sea at least half a Mile from any Shore, very deep, yet it hath a Fountain of fresh Water; which, as they assured us, ariseth out of the Rock, and was no Cistern. I took notice, that the Current of the Bosphorus runs very swift on each side of it.* 1.39 From thence Scutari is the nearest Shore; and is situate opposite to the Haven, between the two Promontories, of the Seraglio and Gallata. It is now a large City, and is beautified with a Royal Mosque, built, and endowed by the Sultaness-Mother. It seem∣eth to be in the same place, that Strabo puts Chrysopolis; but we ob∣served nothing of Antiquity there. We went through the Town, up to the top of the Hill South-ward, and passed through a very large Burying-place of the Turks, containing, I believe, above ten or a dozen Acres; which is ordinary in Turkey, because they bury not in the place where another hath been buried. They therefore set a Stone upright, one at the Head, and another at the Feet of each Body.

Proceeding a little further on the Brow of the Hill, we had a good Prospect towards Constantinople, Gallata, the Propontis, and the Bosphorus: And here the Grand Signior hath a House of Pleasure, cal∣led as they do others, Serai, or as the Francks form it, Seraglio. They told us, That it was built after the Persian made by the Father, to this Grand Signior.

Hard by this we took Water,* 1.40 and passed a little reach, about a a Mile and half, to Chalcedon, now but a blind Town; as its Foun∣ders, for their ill Choice, were esteemed by the Oracle. It is more antient than Byzantium; but now famous for nothing, but the Me∣mory of the Great Council held there, in the Year of our Lord 327. and 20^th of the Reign of Constantine the Great. The first thing we did, was to visit the Metropolitan Church, where they say it was kept.

But Monsieur Nanteul assured us, That it was a Mile from thence; and that he had there read an Inscription, that mentioneth it. Beside, that it is but a small, obscure Building, uncapable to contain such an Assembly. The Turks call it Cadiqui; but the Greeks yet Chalcedona. Here we found some antient Sepulchral Monuments, and upon one an Inscription. We found another Inscription in the Wall of a private House, near the Church; which signifieth, That Evante, Son of Anti∣pater, having made a prosperous Voyage towards the Abrotanians, and the Islands Cyaneae, at the Mouth of the Euxin Sea, as I before noted; and hence desiring to return by the Aegean Sea, and Pontus, offered Cakes at this Statue, which he had erected to Jupiter, who had sent him such good Weather, as a Token of his good Voyage.

ΟΥΡΙΟΝ ΕΠΙ ΠΡΙΜΝΗΣ ΤΙΣ ΟΔΗΓΗΤΗΡΑ ΚΑΛΕΙΤΩ
ΖΗΝΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΠΡΩΤΟΝ ΩΝΙΣΤΙΟΝ ΕΚΠΕΤΑΣΑΣ
ΕΠΙ ΚΥΑΝΕΑΣ ΔΙΝΑΣ ΔΡΟΜΟΥΣ ΕΝΘΑ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΩΝ
ΚΑΜΠΥΛΟΝ ΕΙΛΙΣΣΕΙ ΚΥΜΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΨΑΜΑΘΟΙΣ
ΕΙΤΑ ΚΑΤ ΑΙΓΑΙΑΝ ΠΟΝΤΟΥ ΠΛΑΚΑΝΑΣ ΕΡΕΥΝΩΝ
ΝΕΙΣΘΩ ΤΩΙΔΕΒΑΛΛΩΝ ΨΑΙΣΤΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΩ ΖΩΑΝΩΙ
ΟΔΕ ΤΟΝ ΕΥΑΝΤΗΤΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΘΕΟΝ ΑΝΤΙΠΑΤΡΟΥ ΠΑΙΣ
ΣΤΗΣΕ ΦΙΛΩΝ ΑΓΑΘΗΣ ΣΥΜΒΟΛΟΝ ΕΥ ΠΛΟΙΗΣ

The End of the Second Book.

Notes

• * 1.1

  THE NAME.
• * 1.2

  LATITUDE.
• * 1.3

  SITUATION.
• * 1.4

  FIURE.
• * 1.5

  WALLS.
• * 1.6

  GATES.
• * 1.7

  PROSPECT WITHOUT.
• * 1.8

  WHAT WITHIN.
• * 1.9

  SERAGLIO.
• * 1.10

  MOSQUES.
• * 1.11

  SEPUE∣CHERS.
• * 1.12

  CUPRIOULI.
• * 1.13

  THE HIPPO∣DROME
• * 1.14

  HIEROGLY∣PHICAL PIL∣LAR.
• * 1.15

  THE OTHER PILLAR.
• * 1.16

  BRAZEN PILLAR.
• * 1.17

  ACHMETS MOSQUES.
• * 1.18

  THE PILLAR OF HONORI∣US AND AR∣CADIUS.
• * 1.19

  THE POR∣PHYRY, OR CONSTAN∣TINE'S PIL∣LAR.
• * 1.20

  MARCIAN'S PILLAR.
• * 1.21

  THE JANI∣ZARIES QUARTERS.
• * 1.22

  KANS.
• * 1.23

  BAZAR.
• * 1.24

  BAGNIOS.
• * 1.25

  OLD AQUEDUCT.
• * 1.26

  SEVEN TOWERS.
• * 1.27

  PATRIARCH AT BALLATA.
• * 1.28

  TURKS RE∣LIGION and LEARNING.
• * 1.29

  CONSTAN∣TINE'S PA∣LACE.
• * 1.30

  SULTAN ELIUB'S TOMB.
• * 1.31

  THE HARBOUR.
• * 1.32

  GALLATA
• * 1.33

  PERA.
• * 1.34

  OPIUM.
• * 1.35

  RUSMA.
• * 1.36

  BELGRADE.
• * 1.37

  AUQEDUCTS
• * 1.38

  PLANTS.
• * 1.39

  SCUTARI.
• * 1.40

  CHALCEDON