A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures.

THE First BOOK: CONTAINING A VOYAGE FROM VENICE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. (Book 1)

AFTER I had employed the greatest part of two years time in surveying the most eminent parts of France and Italy, I resolved, by God's assistance, to make this Voyage into the Levant; to which pur∣pose I hasten'd to Venice, where I arrived about the beginning of June, in the year 1675. The first thing I did there was to find out my Companion, Mon∣sieur Spon, Doctor of Physic, of Lyons, whom, by a particular acquain∣tance I had made with him at Rome, I knew to be a very discreet and ingenious person, and therefore had made choice of him, rather than any other, to be my Fellow-Traveller in this my intended Voyage. Of him I understood, that in a short time, a Bailo, or Ambassador from the State of Venice, was to part for Constantinople, to the Grand Signior's Court: Until which time we resolved to go to Padua, there to spend some time in seeing that illustrious University, and to inform

[illustration] map of Attica and Peloponnesus

Characterum seu Signorum Explicatio.

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Opppidum

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Episcopalis sedes

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Archiepiscopalis sedes

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Oppidum Semirurum

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Ruina mera

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Oppidusecudu Geographos Veteres

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Monsstei••ium

p. Portus

prō. Promontorium

Ins. Insula

m. Mons

L. Lacus

〈☐〉〈☐〉 Silve et arboceta

n. inmce.

[illustration]

ACHAIA VETUS & NOVA Cum Observationibus Geo. WHELERI Armigeri ANGLI.

[illustration]

our selves of some necessary particularities concerning the State of Venice, and then to return back again, and provide our selves with such things as our Voyage required. This I thought very convenient, in order to my better Information, great part of my Journey being like to be through the Venetian Territories; and therefore, I think, it may not be altogether impertinent to give a short Account of that so ancient, wise, and potent Republic.

The most serene Republic of Venice, as they are stiled, is the ancient∣est Free-State that now flourisheth in the World; and notwithstan∣ding the great losses they have sustained from the innumerable Armies of the Turks, have yet such large and fruitful Territories, as make them the objects of the Envy and Jealousie, not only of the Grand Signior, but also of most of the Christian Princes, their Neighbours.

Their Historians calculate their beginning from the fifth Century, about which time the Goths, Huns, and Vandals enter'd into Italy, de∣stroying and sacking great part of the chief Cities of it; among which was Altinum, situated at the bottom of the Gulph Northwards from Venice, the Ruines whereof retain still the name of Altino, which was (as they say) destroyed by Attila. From this Altinum, Aquileia, and other Neighbouring Cities, such as could escape the sury of Attila, fled to these little Islands, where now Venice standeth. Thus did they unen∣vied, and unsuspected, in the last extremity of Fortune, lay the first Foundations of one of the noblest, richest, and securest Cities in the World. And although in several Ages after, their encrease was not full so considerable, as to be feared or envied, yet so soon as they began to be so, they still defended themselves with so great success, as made their Neighbours content to be at Peace with them.

Their first Victories were over Dalmatia and Istria, and after having conquered the Anconians, and others, at Sea, they rendered themselves Masters of the Adriatick Gulph. After this, they encreased so in Riches and Strength, that by the fifteenth Century they had render'd themselves compleat Masters of Friuli, Padua, Verona, Vicenza, Bressia, Bergamo, &c. with those ample and most fruitful Territories about them. They had Romagnia under their protection, and Puglia their Feudatory, and at last became Masters of the Morea, and the greatest part of the Islands of the Archipelago, with Negropont, and the King∣doms of Cyprus and Candia; which last they defended bravely twenty three years, and at last parted with it with Honour, and it may be, with less prejudice to themselves, than to the rest of Christendom.

But now among the Islands of the Archipelago, they have only Cerigo and Tine; which, with Istria, and the Coasts of Dalmatia, Corfu, Cepha∣lonia, and Zant, are all that remain of the Levant part of their Domi∣nions: All which Provinces, and Cities in them, are commanded by Governours, dignified with particular Titles, according to the great∣ness and importance of the several places, as Generals, Proveditors, or Counts, who are chosen by the Senate, and enabled by their deputed Power to act and judge in all Causes; from whose Sentence no Appeal can be made, but only to the Senate of Venice. They are chosen out of the Families of the Nobles, and during their Government, are as Princes: But so soon as that is expired, they are reduced again to their

first Principles of a private Life; which they return to with so much evenness of Temper, and so unconcern'd, as shews they knew how to Obey, before they were entrusted with Command.

We had not stay'd above a Week at Padua, but News was brought us, that the Bailo was ready to part, which hasten'd us again to Venice; where, as soon as we were arriv'd, we found it so true, that we had but that day to prepare our selves for so great a Voyage, get License to Embark in one of the Gallies, and to order our Letters of Credit; which although they be necessary in so long a Journey, yet many things else are requisite to one who intends to make the best advantage of his time in those remote parts; especially a good Sea-Compass, a Quadrant, or other Instrument to take Latitudes, and a measure of a Foot, &c. But my hast gave me not leasure to get the second; which when I saw the Errors of our modern and ancient Maps, I too late wish'd for.

The 20th of June I again return'd to Venice, went to Signior Bene∣detto Sanudo, a noble Venetian, who was Captain of the Galley called Il Hercule in cunea, and one of the two that was appointed to carry and accompany the Ambassador. Of him, though with some difficulty, I obtain'd the favour of passage for my self, and Monsieur Spon, on Board his Galley.

About Midnight we set Sail from Venice, the Wind being fair, though so gentle a Gale, and the Water so smooth, that we hardly perceived we made way: Nevertheless by the next Morning we were in sight of the shore of Istria, and about two hours before Noon we arrived at the Scoglio, or little Island of St. Andrè, on the same shore,* 1.1 where there is only a Convent of Franciscan Fryars, made pleasant by the delightful Prospects of the Woods, Hills, and Sea, environing that little Scoglio.

It being determined, that we should spend the rest of the day here, and that Island affording but little other Entertainments, I went that Afternoon a Simpling; which was a Curiosity seldom failed to give me satisfaction, when all other Divertisements were wanting. And truly this little Spot afforded me Entertainment of that nature beyond expectation: There I found,

• 1. Scorpoides Limoniis foliis. This is a small Plant,* 1.2 that hath Leaves much resembling Limonium, among which are yellow Flowers, set on the top of a Stalk, like those of wild Lotus; after which succeed little Cods with Seed, in shape much resembling Caterpillars, turn'd round together, when touch'd.
• 2. Limonium reticulatum. This is a little Limonium, which hath very small Leaves close to the ground, but sends out several Branches a handful or two high, divided and formed into many small Twigs, that it much resembles a Net. Whether it hath any Flower succeeding it, I did not find.
• 3. Syderitis Spinosa.
• 4. Sicordica legitima Clusii.
• 5. Beupleurum angustifolium.
• 6. Prunella, flore albo.
• 7. Centaurium minus, flore albo; White-flower'd Centaury.
• 8. Nasturtium marinum.

• 9. Herniaria.
• 10. Draba Siliquosa, Caerulea, Cretica.
• 11. Doricnium Narbonense.
• 12. Doricnium Congener: Like the other, only it is a shrub, and perennial.
• 13. Convolvulus rectus, argenteis foliis, or Cantabrica Plinii. It is a small Plant of two handfuls high, set here and there with narrow Silver-colour'd Leaves, and on the top hath reddish Flowers, like the ordinary Convolvulus.
• 14. Polium Creticum.
• 15. Pentaphyllium rectum Agrimoniis foliis.
• 16. Asclepias flore albo; and many others, which I omit, because I had observ'd them before in other places of France and Italy.

Hard by this Island, upon the shore of Istria, is Ruigna, situated upon a little Peninsula, and inhabited altogether by Sea-men, who are most of them profess'd Pilots; and for their encouragement, all Ships, whe∣ther Venetians or Strangers, are obliged to touch there, and to take a profess'd Pilot of this place, to Steer them over the Flats that are before the entrance into the Venetian Harbours, which are very difficult and dangerous. I heard the Pilot say, that conducted the Vessel I return'd in, that it had sometimes but half a Foot, and sometimes not above an Inch of Water below its Keel. Ruigna hath a very good and secure Haven, and that by nature, without the help of Art. The Country about it is fruitful in excellent Wines and Oyl, which may be the reason that there are so many decrepit persons there, strong Wine being the producer of Gouts and Sciatica's. The Women wear Fardingals here, after the Spanish fashion. The Town is not big, but seems populous, and is a Bishop's see.

[illustration] map of Ruigna with insets

Lib. j. I. fig

The next day early we parted from St. Andrè; but the Sea running high, although there was but little Wind, (which the Mariners told us, was usual in those Seas about the Change of the Moon, as then it was) we put in at Pola, about ten Miles from St. Andrè.

[illustration]

IMP. CAESARI SEP∣TIMIO SERVERO.. H... PIO FELICI INVICTO AUG. RESP. POL. D.N.M.E.

Pola is one of the most an∣cient Cities of Istria,* 1.3 situated at the farther end of a little Bay, which makes a most secure and spacious Port, every way Land∣lock'd: But those that look upon the small number of its Inhabitants at present, scarcely amounting to seven or eight Hundred, would hardly credit its former greatness, without such eminent Marks of its An∣tiquity, as still remain. That it hath been a Free-State, or Commonwealth, we found upon the Pedestal of a Sta∣tue of the Emperour Severus, whereon is engraven the Dedi∣cation by Respublica Polensis, or the Commonwealth of Pola. The marks of its greatness are its Amphitheater, Triumphant-Arch, and Temple, dedicated to Rome and Augustus Caesar. Authors agree not concerning its first beginning. The Poet, Callimachus, affirms it was a Colony of Cholcis, who pursued the Argonauts by Sea; whom ha∣ving lost in the pursuit, and not daring to return to their King, they voluntarily banished themselves their Country, and planted this. Wherefore their City was called Pola; which signifieth (if we may believe Strabo) a banished people. Nor can they agree what way they took to come to this place. Some will have it, that they came by the Euxin-Sea, up the Danube, formerly called Ister; which made them give the name of Istria to the Country they came to inhabit; and that they afterwards sail'd in the Adriatick-Sea with the same Vessels: a thing impossible, unless they carried them upon their shoulders; the Danube having no communication with the Venetian-Gulph. Yet that they were a Colony of some of the Graecians, may be concluded from their main money still coyned with the name of their Country in Greek Letters; of which I have seen several, but especially one of un∣doubted antiquity in the curious Collection of the Earl of Peterbo∣rough, &c. which hath stamped on the one side two young faces, re∣versed to each other; and on the other an Eagle preying on a Dol∣phin, with these Letters circumscrib'd ΙΣΤΡΙΗΑ Istriea. Med. 1, 2. But however, the Antiquities that now remain, are of no ancienter date, than the Roman Emperors, as they themselves testifie. The chief of them are these. First the Temple of Augustus; the front of which is sustained by four Corinthian Pillars of a curious speckled Marble; and upon the Architrave is the Dedication written, viz. —CIT AUGUSTO CAESARI DIVI F. III. VIRI TRIBUNIC. POTEST.

To Rome and Augustus Caesar, as before said. There is also the ruins of another hard by: and the Dome, or Cathedral Church seemeth to be built upon another, by the ruins about it, and ancient Stones compiled in the building. The Font for holy Water hath been an ancient Fountain of white Marble four square. At each side the Wa∣ter flowed over, and made a pretty Cascade, descending by several degrees; first running over Nimphs on the two opposite sides, and two Scallop-shells on the other two opposite. The Triumphal-Arch was built in honour of one Caius Sergius, by his Wife Salvia Posthuma, and was adorned with his, and others of the Families Statues, as may be judged by the form of it. It is of the Corinthian-order, of White Marble: But is now become only the East-gate to the Town, though formerly one of the Principal Ornaments thereof. The Amphithea∣ter is without the Town northwards, and wants much of the Great∣ness, either of that of Rome, or that of Verona. It is of the Tus∣can-order, and is judged to have had no other seats within, than of wood. Beside these we found some Sepulchral-Monuments of lesser note; which if they be thought worth it, I shall make publick here∣after. It hath a Cittadel upon a Rock within the Walls, but inconsi∣derable for strength. It hath plenty of Provisions, and good Water. The long slip of Rocks, South of it, though barren enough, is not∣withstanding stored with many curious Plants. These I observed: 1. Acacia Poetarum. 2. Crista galli flore purpureo. 3. Trifolium Saxa∣tile, Hirsutissimum. 4. Genista Montana Arborescens. 5. Polygala re∣centiorum. 6. Leucoium Patavinum. 7. Pentaphyllon incanum; that which Gerard gives for this, hath but three leaves; but this hath five. 8. Cordilium Creticum. 9. Secoridaca flore albo, &c.

On Saint John Baptist's day, in the morning, we tried to get out of the Harbour; but the Wind being contrary, and higher than we thought, while we were in that calm Port, we were forced to return to a little creek at the mouth, just within the Promontory of the Southern-Harbour, and there stay till after Dinner. In which time I went, and climed up a Mountainous Rock hard by; where I found many other curious Plants. 1. Sage growing wild. 2. Tragoriga∣num Creticum, as some will have it; but I esteem it Satureia, or what we call in our Kitchins, Winter-Savoury; and that from the resem∣blance of smell, and substance of the leaves; which are not so thick and oyly as Tragoriganum; as likewise Polium, Roris marini foliis, or leaves like Rose-mary.

After Dinner we put out to Sea, but not without danger; the Wind continuing still high, and contrary. After we had made six miles, (which is the length of the Bay, which makes the Haven of Pola) a storm beginning to rise, we put in between the point, and the Island Veruda; which with the Land, and some other such Scoglio's about it, make a good harbour. Here the Holy Virgin is worshipped with great Devotion, by the name of Madonna di Veruda; Her Church, with the Convent, belongeth to the Minime-Fryers.

The next day early we parted hence, to pass a dangerous Gulph, called the Quarner, Thirty miles over. It hath at the bottom to the North the Mountain, Caldiera, which often sends forth such gusts of

Wind, as are fatal to the Vessels that must pass it. Its high ridges look a far off, like an overgrown Cammel, with a great bunch upon the back. When we had passed about Twenty miles of the Thirty, and had about Ten to the Mountains of Ossero, we saw a great storm pursuing of us, which overtook us about four miles from Shore; but with such fury, as made us immediately strike Sail; it being an Hurricano, or Whirl-wind, that had almost overset the Gally, before we could furl the Sails. It was accompanied with such Thundring, Lightning and Rain, as if the Elements had conspired to our destru∣ction. The Sea also ran so high, that we could neither Sail, nor Row; yet by Gods mercy, and the help of the Rudder, we were droven after an hours time (although we could no way see the Land) under the Mountains of Ossero, and thence we rowed into Porto-longo; which is on the North side of the Isle Unia. In this Isle there is but one Vil∣lage, encompassed with a fertile soil, containing in all about nine, or ten miles in circuit, abounding in Corn and Wine; but the rest very rocky and barren. Of Plants here are abundance, such as I before named, and over and above a Syderitis Angustifolia, flore albo.

The next day we endeavoured to get out to Sea; but finding the water too rough, we turned into Porto-novo, which is a little creek between the Mountains of Ossero. After noon, the weather proving better, we set sail, and passed between many little Islands (which along those Coasts are numberless) as Canigula and Sansio South of us, in the Gulph Quarnerette: which towards the Land hath the Moun∣tains of Morlaca: Towards the East San-Pietro in Limbo, being two little Isles, thorough which we passed, making a good Harbour with a little Fort at the East-end of the most Northern of them.

Hence we left Selva, with a pretty Town upon it, to the South: Opposite to which is L' Ulba; which hath North-Port Saint Nicola at one end, without any Town there; but hath one about three miles distant. Here groweth abundance of Samphire: of which the Mari∣ners gathered great quantity to boil, and eat with Oyl and Vinegar. Here I found a Plant with a Bulbous-root, which sent out a stalk about half a foot high, with a crest, or crown of little small flowers, striped with white and Cinnamon-colour. I should have taken it for a Moly, but that it had no smell: and for an Asphodil, had I found any leaves at the root. Another like Samphire, but that each leaf ended with a Pricket.

The next day we passed by many Rocks, lying in a row, South of us; as Melada, on which is a Town called Cestron. Then Rap••n∣tello, and some others beyond; until at last, as in a River between little Islands, we arrived at Zara.

[illustration] map of Zara

ZARA Lib: j. Fig: II:

Zara is situated upon a slip of plain ground, almost encompassed with the Sea;* 1.4 only the East-end is joyned to the Firm-Land of Dalma∣tia; if I may call it joyned. For there also is a ditch made from one Sea to the other; which is well supplied with water at high Tides. The Harbour is on the North-side, and is well secured by the City; which serves instead of a Mole, to defend it from the South-winds; there being no other, that annoy it from the adjoyning Land. It lieth in length East and West. The entrance of the Port is West; where it hath two round Bastions, with Cannon mounted on them: which saluted our Bailo, as also did the Musketteers from the Walls; and upon his arrival in the Port, the Count and Captain of the Mili∣tary-forces received him at his Landing. They were cloathed in crim∣son Suits and Gowns, made something like the Civilians Gowns at Oxon. The Bailo also was in a crimson sute, but made after the French fashion. These, with the Militia, conducted him to the Palace of the General of Dalmatia, who resides there. The East-side hath three Bastions, and is defended by a strong Cittadel, whose Fortification shews it had a good contriver, and a great deal of industry to bring it to that perfection. Its Fosses are hewed out of the hard Rocks; which is the substance of the greatest part of the ground thereabouts, and renders it very difficult to be mined. Its Bastions, Half-moons, and Counterscarps are well countermined, and mantled with hewen stone. The end of the Town, next the Cittadel, hath three regular Bastions, and is separate from it by a deep Fosse. There is no Hill near it, to command it from without: So that it may pass for a strong Town; as it is also the chief of Dalmatia. The Military-Forces then consisted of eight Companies of Foot, and three of Horse, being for most part Morlachs, Croats, and other People of the Mountainous and

Northern parts of Dalmatia, Men of tall stature, strong, nimble, and hardy; especially the Morlachs, who are used to the cold and barren Mountains, called by that name, extending themselves along those Coasts, and subject to the Venetians. They are inveterate enemies to the Turks, and never spare any of them, when they fall into their clutches. Whensoever they make Parties to go pillage the Turks on their Borders, still they return loaden with Booty. We were by many credible persons assured, that such was their strength, as four of them would take a man on horse-back upon their shoulders, and carry them both over the Streights and dangerous places of the Mountains, even sometimes twenty, or thirty paces at a time; which hath been tried, when some of their chief Officers have been to pass those Mountains.

[illustration] depiction of a local

Morlacus. Lib: j. Fig: III.

Their Habit is odd. For Shoes they have only a piece of Leather, or sometimes of a dried Skin, fitted to, and by thongs, or 〈◊〉〈◊〉, going cross-ways over the back of the feet, are tyed fast to their 〈◊〉〈◊〉. Their Legs are covered with Buskins of Cloth, or Leather; to which are joyned a pair of red breeches, being the colour they much de∣light in. Their Doublet has no sleeves, but are supplied by those of their shirt; which are long and wide, without any binding at the wrists; but open like a Surplice, and edged about with a Lace.

Their long Caps are of red Cloth, flapping, or hanging down on one side, and adorned with a Stone, wherein are set three pieces of Iron, in form of Feathers. The Peasants go commonly armed with a Pole-ax: but the ••oldiers wear, besides, a Cimeter.

In the Church of Saint Simeon they profess to have the Body of that Saint; who received our Saviour in his arms at his Presentation in the Temple. It was brought (as they say) from the Holy Land; and being worshipped with great Devotion, is often carried in Pro∣cession about the Town, as being their Patron and Protector. It hath a glass on one side of its Shrine, to expose it to the view of the devout, and yet to keep it from the injury of weather. It appears of a whitish colour, much like to those I have seen at Tholouse in France, at the Church of the Cordeliers; where all the Bodies buried there, in the space of one year, become as dry as any Mummy, and of a whitish colour. The moist parts being dried, the Skin, Nerves, and Muscles only return; and when pressed with the finger, return again. In a Charnel-house there I saw about four or five hundred: Such is the Miraculous Saint Catharine of Eolognia. And in the cu∣rious Repository of Signior Zani, Apothecary of Bolognia, I saw many Animals preserved after the same manner: Especially a Hen, which he told me was starved in a ceiling on the roof of an house. There are some good pieces of Painting in the Churches, of the hand of Tintaret, Palma, and Titian.

The Country about Zara hath been well cultivated, and planted: But since they had some Skirmishings with the Turks, they have not let a Tree stand.* 1.5 The Town was anciently called Jadera, and en∣joyed the Rights of a Roman Colony, and had Augustus Caesar to their Patron, who stiled himself their Parent, or Father: he built them Walls, and a Castle, which I learned by this Inscription, on the out∣side of a Garden, in the place near the Gate of Saint Chrysogono, near the Haven.

IMP. CAESAR DIVI F. AUG.
PARENS COLONIAE MURUM
ET TURRIS DEDIT.

Another Inscription just by it sheweth, that after the Towers were decayed with age, they were re-built by Titus, Julius Optatus adding Arms.

T. JULIUS O ••TATUS VETUSTATE
CONSUM P. TIS IMPENSU SUA RESTITUIT
CUM TILIIS ARMIS ADDITIS.

〈…〉〈…〉 this Inscription is another of some few 〈…〉〈…〉 Family the Captain of our Gally was 〈◊〉〈◊〉 guided, 〈…〉〈…〉 with the Title of its 〈…〉〈…〉 in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 two 〈◊〉〈◊〉.

〈…〉〈…〉 Marinus,
〈…〉〈…〉 Senatu.

Near the Greek Church, dedicated to Saint Helie, are two Corinthian Pillars, whose first Chapters and Bases, are of very good Work. It is judged to be the Rests of a Temple dedicated to Juno, from an Inscri∣ption taken hence, and made part of the Foundation of the Cupulo of Saint Donatus his Church by the Dome. The whole sence may be made out by the beginning and ending of two Inscriptions, which were formerly one Stone, by their shapes, but written on two sides. For one line is repeated twice.

JUNONI AUGUSTAE
APPULEIA M.F. QUINTA
SUO ET L. TURPILII BROCCHI
LICINIANI FILII NOMINE.

It is a Dedication to Juno, sirnamed Augusta, meaning Livia, by Appuleia Quinta, Daughter to Marcus, in her own, and Sons name, who was Lucius, Turpilius Brocchus Licinianus.

Upon the same Pillar of the Cupulo is a Bass-relievo of a Bacchanal, very well represented.

Upon the Wall of a Garden, near to the foremost Inscriptions, at the place Saint Chrysogono, upon an Altar is this Dedication to Isis and Serapis.

[illustration]

A Basso Relivo of Sera∣pis and Isis.

ISIDI SERAPIDI LIBER LIBERAE VOTO SUSCEPTO PRO SALUTE SCA∣PULAE FILI SUI P. QUINC TIUS PARIS S. L. M.

A Basso Relivo of Sera∣pis and Isis.

Upon one side of the Altar is the representation of Isis and Se∣rapis in Relieve, and perhaps on the other of Liber and Libera; for it is hid in the Wall; the Dedication being to them also.

[illustration]

S^t. Chrysogono gate Lib: j. Fig: IIII.

The North-gate, Saint Chrysogono, by the Harbour, is part of an Arch, brought (as some of the Town yet remember) from about a mile off. Whence it is evident, the City was much larger formerly, than now it is. The Inscription shews, that it was built by Melia Aniana to the memory of her Husband, Lupicius Bassus, and that it was in a Market-place, and adorned with Statues, and cost Six hun∣dred and Thirty Sestertia, which is a piece of money that weigheth about Two-pence halfpeny, and amounts to near Twelve pounds sterling; which was a great deal of money in those days. We heard there was a Theater, where now the Cittadel is; but destroyed, when that was fortify'd.

About a mile, or two, out of Town we saw some Ruins running Northward, and we were informed, they were continued near Thirty miles. Signior Valerio Ponte, Archdeacon of this place, assured us, that near these Ruins was found an Inscription of the Emperor Trajan; which made him believe he was the Donor of it. It was undoubtedly an Aqueduct, to supply the Town with Spring-water; whereof it is still destitute; having none, but what comes from the Heavens, and is collected into Cisterns under the ground, in several places of the City; as, near the Generals Palace by the middle Bastion, at the East-end of the City, at the West-end near the Gate, and in the Herb-Market. I know not well how these Cisterns are made here; whether they are cut out of the Rock the Town stands upon, or whe∣ther

the Rock lies as deep as the Water of the Sea. But most likely they are made as at Venice; where it is very strange, that they who lie so far into the Sea, having their ground soft and spungy, yet their Cisterns preserve water (without the least brackishness) always sweet, and as wholesome as any in the world. Wherefore, I guess, it may not be ungrateful to the curious, to have an account of what I observed at Venice, concerning them.

After they have dug the place as deep, and as wide, as will serve their purpose, they lay a good foundation, and pave it with Stone and Plaister of Paris, very well, laying a large Stone in the middle, or at such place as they intend to draw the water out: Upon which is built a Cylinder, in form of our Wells, of Brick or Stone, laid upon one another without any Mortar or Cement. The Walls also being well Terrassed, they bring a sort of fresh, stiff, blewish-colour'd Clay from the Land; which they first lay about half a foot thick upon the bot∣tom, beginning round from the Cylinder to the Walls: and then they begin to raise it a foot and half, or thereabouts. Then fill the whole Cistern with the best clear Sand they can find (which they fetch from Lido) near the City; and as they fill it with Sand up higher and higher, so they raise the Clay about the Walls until they come unto the top. After which they put fresh water all over the Sand, partly to make it settle; and therefore as it sinks, they fill it up with more Sand, until it hath its due proportion; and partly to take away all saltness from the Sand, which is taken from the Sea-side. And therefore they still draw it out of the Well as fast as it sinks into it, until they find no more saltness in it. After which they cover it with an Arch, leaving three, or four holes, or more, of a foot, or thereabouts, Dia∣meter, which they fill with spunges; and that is to hinder all dirt, that comes with the rain-water, from entring into the Cistern. These holes they cover with a small Iron Grate, or a Stone, pierced and bored thorough in several places, contriving the upper pavement over the Arch in such sort, that all the water that falls near the place, runs di∣rectly into the Cistern. This I learned of Signior Bartholomeo Morelli, Brother to a great and rich Banker of Venice; who, while I was at Venice, made one about his house for his convenience; which I saw, as I have related. This may be very useful to many Sea-Towns, which want good fresh water.

The Count, or Governour of this place, is Signior Antonio Soderino, of a Noble Venetian Family, who, besides his Eminent Quality, is a Person no less obliging, than ingenious, very curious in Medals; of which the number he hath is far less considerable, than the rarity, and neatness of the pieces. He hath travelled in all Parts of the Levant, where he collected the greatest part of them. Some of which indeed are so curious, as not only exceeded our expectation, but gave us hopes, that in our Travels into those Parts we might also find some worth the pains of collecting. We had a Letter of recommendation to him, to have the favour of seeing his Cabinet; upon which he received us with a great deal of obligingness, and shewed us, a∣mong many curious pieces, two Otho's of Brass, one Greek, the other Latin; which in Monsieur Spon's judgment, were un∣doubtedly

ancient; and an Antoninus Pius; the Reverse of which was Orpheus, playing on his Harp, with all sorts of Animals about him, as charmed by his Musick. Monsieur Spon speaks of Five Otho's; but I observed but Two of them in my Journal, which are those he hath caused to be engraven; and are these I give you.

I should abuse the Obligation we received of him, to pass it by with∣out mentioning his Courtesie; which was so extraordinary. After he had taken a great deal of pains in shewing us his Cabinet, he with as great kindness obliged us to sup with him; where he gave us a no∣ble Treat, and in the mean time, unknown to us, sent for all our bag∣gage from our lodging, where we should have had but bad accom∣modation, the small humber of strangers, that pass that way, giving but little encouragement to Inns, and obliged us to make use of a handsome Apartment he assigned for us in his Palace: At which we were much surprized, when we were to take our leaves of him that night. But his civility stop'd not here; for he engaged us to make his Palace our Inn, during our stay in that place; which was five days longer.

July the first,* 1.6 the Wind being fair, and a brisk gale; we soon passed by Zara Vechia, or Old Zara, which is about Eighteen miles from the other. We sailed between the Land and several little Islands, which make a Channel like to a River, deep enough for Gallies, but not for Ships of any burthen. The Inhabitants on both sides make the best they can of a shallow, and rocky soil. The surface of the Earth (as I was informed) is covered with a scaly rock; which being pared off, and laid in heaps, there appears a most fruitful soil, which they plant with Olives and Vines, which bear good Muskadel-Wines, and in great plenty.

In three hours time we came to Mortaro,* 1.7 Thirty miles from Zara. This Port is made between two Islands, lying together, with high, rocky Mountains round about. It is deep enough for great Ships, and hath a little Town of about 50 or 60 houses, water'd with a Spring of good water. Here on the Rocks I found, 1. A Plant with leaves, like Althea for shape, but of a deep green, and smooth, send∣ing up a stalk above a yard and a half high, full of Milk. The Flower I saw not, it not being yet blown. The Bailo's Doctor would perswade me, that it was Tithymalus Asperagoides, but I rather think it* 1.8 Campanula major lactescens lobeli. 2. A little Thlaspi Angustifol. flore purpureo. 3. Eryngium Luteum Monspeliense. 4. Paronychia al∣tera Mathioli. 5. Saxifraga Viridis Dioscoridis. 6. Centaureum luteum, non perfoliatum.

The next day we parted hence,* 1.9 and passed in sight of Sabenigo, the strongest City of Dalmatia belonging to the State of Venice. Its In∣habitants are esteemed seven or eight thousand Souls, and we could discern from the Gally by the help of a Perspective-glass four Forts. Of which we were informed one near the Harbour, is called Saint Nicholas. The other is the Works that mantle the Town. The other two are upon too little Rocks near the Town, called the Baron, and Saint Andrew. The Dome is much praised by the Venetians, be∣ing all of Marble, and the Architecture very good. There is a

little Island, just against the Town, called the Isola D'oro, the gol∣den Island, from its pleasantness. From Zara it is counted Fifty miles to this place. Hence we parted, and saw Trau more East∣wards. We passed by several Scoglio's Southward of us, as Saint Andrè, Buza, L'Issa, Girone, and Salta, which lie South of Spalato, where we arrived the second of July.

[illustration] map of Spalato

Lib. j: Fig V. Montes Septentrio SPALATO

Spalato, or as some call it Spalatro,* 1.10 seemeth to be a corruption of the word Palatium. For the Town that now is here, was the Palace of the Emperour Dioclesian. Its situation is very remarkable; the Land whereon it stands being a Peninsula, joyned to the Firm Land of Dalmatia by an Isthmus of about a mile over; where it is Walled in by a prodigious precipice of Mountains, ranged along those Coasts, thorough which it hath only one entrance into the Firm Land by a very narrow passage; which is defended by a Fort built upon a Rock just in the entrance, about eight miles Northward from the City. The Sea thus encompassing it, makes a very delightful prospect from some little hills lying Westwards from the Town. I take this Peninsula to be about four miles East and West; but it is esteemed eight miles from Spalato to Clissa Northwards.

The Town is situated on the South-coasts at the bottom of a Bay, in the bending shape of a half-moon, which makes a deep Haven, and of good Anchoridge, but somewhat open to the South-winds. Yet Gallies, and smaller Vessels have a Mole to secure them from those dangers. This place is about four hundred miles from Venice. It hath a very pleasing prospect, entring the Haven; one side of the Pa∣lace, now part of the Wall of the Town, first offering it self to the view. For it hath a Gallery of ancient Windows, adorned with Pil∣lars, and Cornishes between each of them, of the Dorick-Order; ex∣cept

one at each end, which are larger, and of the Corinthian. This Palace is square, and comprehends above two parts of three of the City; the rest, being a little oblong, added to the West-side, makes the whole oblong; but both one and the other are lately fortified, and encompassed by a Work of three Bastions Northwards, and two ran∣ging in the same line with the Wall of the Palace, and the Old City fronting the Haven. There is another little Fort N. E. of the Town against Incursions from the Mountains; and another upon the East-point of the Harbour. But this is only of Earth, and hath Five Bastions. On the West is a Hill unfortified, which commandeth the Town, and renders it very weak.

On the right hand, within the Mole, is a large Lazarett, as the Ita∣lians call a Pest-house; which are frequent in all the Cities of Italy, and under the Venetian Dominions. They are principally for those that come from any place suspected of the Plague, especially Turky, which is never free from it. And here new-comers stay forty days to clear themselves; which they call doing Centumaccia, or Quaran∣tine, from so many days allotted, before they can have Prattick, or any Commerce with the City. But this served instead of a Palace to en∣tertain the Embassadour, and also for want of an Inn in the Town for a Lodging for us. It hath three Quadrangles, each less than the other. The Chamber we chose was the best of half a dozen, at least of one side of the third Quadrangle. I should have been gladder, had we found nothing but the bare Walls, as my Comerade hath given an account. For we had both them, and the Floor, so furnished with Chinches, Fleas and Emmots, that I (who used still to have the greatest share in such Vermin) feared we should be devour'd before we parted thence, notwithstanding all we could invent to destroy them. This is a very commodious place for the Merchants, that come out of Turky in great Companies, which they call Caravans, both to lodg them and their Merchandize, which they unlade here, it being the chief Scale of Trade for Shipping of Goods from Turky to Venice. Our Beds were such as we had made at Venice, to lye on in the Gally, being our length and breadth of course Ticking-Cloth, well quilted with Wool; which did us great service afterwards in all our Voyage in∣to Turky.

We staied at Spalato eleven days, which gave us time enough to survey the place with more than ordinary diligence. But that which most employed our curiosity, was the Palace of Dioclesian; who, when the weight of the Empire seem'd uneasie to him, chose this place to retire to, near his native City Salona. It is built of Free∣stone, well hew'n, and cemented together: the Figure is an Equila∣teral square, each side containing two hundred paces in length, and the height that remains is above sixty foot. It hath a square Tower at each corner, and three Gates, and with Monsieur Spon favour no more; that side towards the Sea, having none according to the best of my re∣membrance; nor have I noted any more, in the design I made of the Town, or in my Journal: The Gate, which entreth the Town from the Haven, being no part of the Palace: The other are placed in the middle of each side.

[illustration]

Dioclesians Palace

• A The Court
• B y^e Portico about it
• C y^e plane of y^e Octogone temple.
• D y^e front of y^e Rotundo
• E y^e plane of itt
• F y^e square Temple
• G y^e Gates
• H y^e Towers
• I buildings or ruines

That side toward the Haven hath forty-five Windows, adorned with as many Pillars of the Dorick-Order, with Freezes, Architraves and Bases very well proportioned: Besides at each end one far larger, and higher than the rest, with Three Arches born up by Corinthian Pillars of Marble. The Windows of the other sides are not set off with Pillars, but plain. The North-gate (which is towards Salona) was well adorned with Statues, as the Niches shew. The weaving together of the Stones of the Architrave of the great entrance of this Gate is very pretty. This was for Horses and Carts to come in at. The two lesser entrances, at each side of it, were for the people, on foot. I give you the Figure as well as I could take it. The West-wall is, for the greatest part, razed to the foundations; yet what remains of the Gate, assures me, that it was beautified with two Hexagon-Towers on each side; and hence examining likewise the other two, I judg'd, that they also might have been adorned in the same manner. Concerning the West-Gate, there is a way streight thorough several ruins, seeming apartments of the Palace, which leadeth to a Court about fifty foot long, and seven∣teen wide, which I judge to have been the Center of the Palace, and equally distant from the Gates. This place, on the East, West, and South-side, is almost encompassed with a Portico of Pillars of the Egyptian Granate-stone, or a Stone very like it; of which I after∣wards saw a Rock in the Island Delos; and since that, great plenty at Milan, about their Churches; which they dig out of a Quarry near Lago Maior at the foot of the Alps. They are of the Corinthian Order, well proportioned, and their Capitals of white Marble. At the South-end is a round Temple, like the Pantheon at Rome, whose Frontispiece wanteth not the Beauty of the more ancient Roman Ar∣chitecture.

At the East-end is an Octogon-Temple, and opposite to it Westward a square one. The Plane of all which I here give, with its Dimensions, as I took them. The Octogon is now the Cathedral Church, dedicated to Saint Lucia. It is Eight square within and with∣out, as I find it by the Dimensions, and figure I exactly took of it. It hath on the outside a Portic round it, Eight-square also, whose curious - wrought Planches of Stone are supported by Twenty-four Corinthian-Pillars of the same Granate with the others. Each side of the Portick, is of Fourteen foot long, and each of the Temples Ten. The door four foot wide, and is ascended to by several steps out of the Court. Within, it hath two ranges of Pillars, one over ano∣ther; which placed in the several Angles, do make eight below, hold∣ing up a Gallery; and as many above; four of which are Granate, and four of Porphiry; and all of the Corinthian Order. Under it is a Vault, whose round-arched roof makes the floor of the Temple, which likewise is Arched, and built so strong, as if it were meant for Eternity. The round Temple hath a Frontispiece, being the breadth of the South-end of the Court, which is sustained by four Granate-Pillars of the Corinthian-Order; the two on each side sustain an Archi∣trave, on which is built an high Arch over the door; whose two Lintel-Posts, and Transome, are of three whole Stones, well wrought, but too high to be easily measured by me. Were they upon Salisbury-Plain, I doubt not, they would pass for such Stones, as we there won∣der at so much. Within this is the Rotundo, Arched all over for∣merly, but now part of it is fallen to decay. The Four-square Tem∣ple, opposite to the Octogone, hath nothing of extraordinary; it receiveth light only by the door, and is now dedicated to Saint John Baptist; and here they Baptize the Children of the Town.

There are many of these Pillars of Granate-Marble lying here and there about the Town; and I was informed, that those who have told them, have numbred, together with those that are standing, a Hun∣dred and fifty-four.

Notwithstanding our bad lodgings at night, we made a shift to spend the days with as much pleasure as we could wish; some new curiosity, or other, still presenting it self to us; besides the great plenty the place affords of every thing that is good, made us eat and drink as well as the Cookery of a German Soldiers Wife (the only one we could find in the Town to do us that favour) could make us; and that at very reasonable rates. For they pay not for Partridges above a groat, or five-pence apiece; for a Hare not much more, and Butchers meat not above a peny a pound. Here is plenty of little young Tor∣toises, which they sell very cheap, and esteem good meat. But the Trouts that are caught in the little River running thorough. Salona are held exquisite, and were famous in the time of the Emperour Dioclesian; who was so pleased with them, that he made a Channel from the River to his Palace, there to preserve them. There is plenty of good Fruit here; the season then yielded Cherries, Mulberries, Figs, and abundance of Apricots; but of the last, I never found any so fair, nor well-tasted as those of England.

We had time not only to see the Town, but the places circumjacent

also. The first excursion that we made was to see Salona, four miles or thereabouts, Northward of the Town, and thence as many more to see Clissa, thorough a most pleasant Country, full of Vines, Olives, Corn, Pomegranates, and other curious Plants.

Salona seemeth to have been about seven or eight miles in circuit,* 1.11 although they report it to have been more. It is now only Ruins, and Fields of Corn, as famous as it was in times past, for making conti∣nual War against the Romans. It was destroyed by Augustus Caesar, among other Towns of Dalmatia, as Strabo affirmeth, but was re∣stored by Tiberius Caesar, and reduced to a Roman Colony, as a frag∣ment of a Stone in the Steeple of Spalatro proveth.

—CAESAR DIVI AUGUST. F.
—STUS IMP. PONT. MAX.
—POTEST XXX. COS. II.
A COLONIA SALOMEN—

It hath the Mountains of Morlachia North, separated by a little Gulph, which probably was its Haven, and helps to make the Isthmus. West∣ward, by these ruins, runneth a little stream into the Gulph, whence the Trouts are taken. This turneth two, or three little Mills; hard by which is a small Church. Our Guides shewed us a Cave among the ••uins, which they told us was the Sepulcher of St. Domnus, the first Bishop of Salona, and St. Peters Disciple, and not far from thence the Se∣pulcher of St. Anastasius, and St. Rainerus, Bishops also of this place. Not far from the River are the Rests of an Aqueduct, ranged towards Spala∣tro; perhaps the Channel, that conveigheth the Trouts, or water at least, from the River to Dioclesians Palace. We passed over this River North∣ward to go to Clissa, four miles from hence, by the way that was an∣ciently called Gabiniana, as we learned among several Inscriptions that we found on the Steeple of the Dome at Spalatro, which was built out the Ruins of Salona. This way leads from Salona to Andetrium, and owes its being, as the Stone affirmeth, to the Munificence of Tiberius Caesar.

—ESAR DIVI AUGUSTI F.
AUGUSTUS IMP. PONTIF. MAX.
TRIB. POTEST. XXI. COS. III.
VIAM A SALONIS AD—ASTEL
DAESITIATIUM PER M—UUM
CLUVI MUNIT
ET IDEM VIAM ADIA—LN
QUOD FILI—IBUS
A SALONIS MUNIT PERM—SSUUM
CLVIII.
CUJUS VIA L. MILLIA PASSUUM SUNT
CLXVII MUNIT PER VEXILLARIOS
LEG. VII. ET XI
ITEM VIAM GABINIANUM
AB SALONIS ANDETRIUM APERUIT
ET MUNIT PER LEG. VII.

From hence we went to Clissa, which is supposed to be the strong Castle Andretrium (〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉) Strabo speaks of, and that Ptolemy calleth Andecrium: But if it is, he is very much mistaken in the Calcule, both of its Longitude and Latiutde. For suppose Salona to be 43 deg. 20 min. Latitude, and 43 deg. 10 min. Longitude, it is impossible there can be Ten Minutes difference in Latitude, and Twenty in Lon∣gitude, viz. 43 deg. 30 min. Lat. and 43 deg. 30 min. Long. as he puts his Andecrium: Clissa being not above four miles distant from Salona, and that almost North of it, something inclining towards the East. This Stone also proves it to have been called Andetrium, rather than Andretrion, or Andecrium, Stones being less subject to be altered, than Books; whose often copying may introduce faults, the first Authors were never guilty of.

Clissa is a very strong Fort,* 1.12 and that more by Nature than Art. The situation is upon a long Rock, made in the fashion of a Gally; of which the Governours Lodgings at the North-end are the Poupe: It stands just in the middle of the passage between the Mountains, whose height and precipices are such, as leaveth no other entrance into the Inland-parts from the Peninsula, but this. And this is so narrow, that not a man, or horse, can pass by without the License of the Castle. It was taken from the Turks by the Venetians, under the Conduct of Signior Foscolo, who was then Proveditor of Dalmatia; and that as much by an accident, as by the vigorous assaults that were made against it. For after a long and fruitless expectance of Succours, and their Provisions failing, the Turks were frighted into a Capitulation, by a Granado, that fell upon the Mosque, whilest they were at their De∣votions, and did such mischief as quite discouraged them from hold∣ing out any longer. They therefore surrendred on condition of free passage with bag and baggage; which although granted by the Com∣mander, yet was of little use to them. For the Morlachs, their invete∣rate enemies way-laid them in their passage, and cut all their throats, without his knowledge. It was assaulted from the West-side; where, upon a little rising-ground under the adjacent Mountains, they raised their Battery. They say, that it did formerly belong to the Emperour of Germany, and was built by a Queen of Hungary. Since the Ve∣netians had it, they have blown up part of the Rock on the North∣side, to make it yet more unaccessible. Other Walls it hath none, but the Rocks, and some few Mounds of Earth, without any regularity. On the top, which is very narrow, but long, I perceived some old Foun∣dations of Walls, which, with an Inscription or two, that we saw after at Trau brought from hence, made us believe, that it was a place of Antiquity. A Bow-shot from hence, Northwards, we entred the Grand Signiors Dominions. There are two Companies of Foot, and half a Troop of Horse that guard this Castle. But the greatest part of these commonly quarter at Spalatro, now they have Peace; only a sufficient number is left here to keep Guard. They have no Water but what falls from Heaven, or is brought up to them with much la∣bour from a Fountain in the Village, under the Castle.

Another day we went to see a Convent, that lieth North-West of the Town, situate at the bottom of a little Bay of the Sea. It is called

Madonna di Paludi, or our Lady of the Marshes. It hath a pretty Church, and pleasant Gardens. I think the Fathers are of the Order of Saint Antonio of Padua. Some time after we took a walk towards the West Promontory of the Haven, and passed along the Coast two or three miles. First by a Convent of Greek Monks, whose Church is dedicated to Saint Hierome; and a good way further, towards the Cape, or Lands-End, of this little Territory, is a small Fort, not con∣siderable, which serveth for no other use than a Watch-Tower. Re∣turning, we made towards a Rocky Mountain Northwards, thorough very pleasant Groves of Olives, that covered us from the heat of the Sun, which would otherwise have been very troublesome, from its re∣flection upon those Rocks in such direct rays. Here we climbed up to a Hermitage, cut in the Rock, which had two or three pretty Cells, but not very cleanly. Nearer the Town, I clambered up a high Rock, that commands it, to take a prospect of it with my Pencil; where I be∣gan to wish that I had had more skill to have designed one of the most delightful places that I had ever seen.

This Rock, amongst others, yieldeth great plenty of Aster, Verbasci foliis.

Jacea incana, or Argentea of Prosper Alpinus, in his Exoticks. And in the Plains thereabouts are these following.

• 1. Medica Variegata.
• 2. Lotus Odoratus.
• 3. Harminum Creticum.
• 4. Leucoium Patavinum.
• 5. Thlaspi Meclinense.
• 6. Libanotis Ferruli facie.
• 7. Satureia citreo odore: perhaps Tragoriganum, or Saturei legitima.
• 8. Aster Montanus folio odorato: forsan, Aster Montanus luteus glabro Salicis folio. [Bauhinus.]
• 9. Linum, flore luteo.
• 10. Genista Minor Spinosa.
• 11. Horminum, flore purpureo.
• 12. Convolvulus argenteus Minor.
• 13. Hieratium, flore incarneo.
• 14. Pruenella Variegata.
• 15. Miagrum.
• 16. Drabae species, exiguo folio, purpurascente.
• 17. Anchusa, Matthioli, flore pallido.
• 18. Centaurium luteum, non perfoliatum: forsan Luteum pusillum Bauhini.
• 19. Cichorium, Verucario semine, sive Chendrillae Verrucaria. J. B.
• 20. Libanctis, Foeniculi facie.
• 21. Satureia Vulg, or Savoury.
• 22. Thlaspi Saxatile, folio Casiae poetarum.
• 23. Scabiosa, flore albo.
• 24. Caucalis Platiphylla. Fab. Column. [Mr. Mart.] forsan Nodosa, Echinato semine. [B. P.].
• 25. Caucalis magno flore & fructu; forsan Caucalis, tenuifolia Mon∣tana. [B. P.]

Growing upon the Steeple here, and on other hard Walls, I found a Plant, which I knew not how to call, unless Equisetum Frutescens. It is a Perennial-Plant, which hath a weak, long, and slender Branch, in colour and substance like ordinary White Jessamine, and without leaves; full of joynts, at about an Inch distance from each other; out of each of which, in the fashion of ordinary Horse-tail, round the joynt, grow other Branches, that run out a great length, and are joynt∣ed like the first Stalk. Out of each joynt come little, yellowish, scaly knobs, by pairs, like that on the top of Horse-tail, but less. In a Mi∣croscope it looketh something like a Hop; between whose Scales issue forth three or four little flowers, with four leaves or knobs apiece. Whether this bears any fruit, I know not. At Troy I found another Plant, differing only from this, that That was Arborescens, and This Frutescens. The Noble Venetian, that there Commanded as Count of this place, was called Francesco Lauredano, who had been Provedi∣tour of Cerigo. He shewed us some Pillars, which he brought from thence, which look like Transparent Marble; but they are but Con∣gelations of Water, that petrifie in the Grotts of that Island. Great part of this Town follow the Greek Religion.

[illustration] map of Tragurum

Lib: j. Fig VII TRAGVRIVM

Having yet time to spare,* 1.13 we hired a Boat, and went to Trau, accounted thirteen miles by Sea, and eighteen or twenty by Land, Westward of Spalatro. We passed in a Channel between the shore and the long Scoglio, or little Isle Bua; to the Western-end of which it is joyned by a Stone-bridg, and to the Firm-Land by a Woodden one: So that it is now an Island, whatever it was anciently, and is surrounded by the Sea; although its learned Historian, Joanni Lucio proveth, that it was formerly a Peninsula; and that the Channel, that

now separateth it from the Land, is done by art, and not by nature, against Strabo and Ptolomy; to whom it was known by the name of Tragurium.

The situation is very pleasant, having good Gardens on the Land Northwards, and a handsome Bourg on the Scoglio South. The Dome is well built, and ancient. The Chappel on the North-side is set round with Statues; of which those of Saint Peter and Saint Paul are good. But the chief reason that made us take this days Voyage, was to see a Manuscript, that hath made much noise among the Learned concern∣ing its Antiquity; to wit, the fragment of Petronius Arbiter, which was wanting to his Works: Because for some ages this piece had not been seen, it was held to be but the fruit of the brain of some inge∣nious person, who had tried to imitate Petronins his Stile. Among others, Monsieur Valois was one, that esteemed it fictitious: But Signior Lucia, and the Abbot Gradi at Rome were of the contrary opinion; the first of whom had undoubtedly seen the Manuscript, Trau being his native Country. The Manuscript is in the hands of Dr. Statelius, a man of parts and learning, but sickly; not a young man, as Monsieur Valois stiles him, with more pride than good man∣ners; for he is near Threescore years old, and a grave and sober per∣son, who, it may be, thinks it not worth his pains to answer Mon∣sieur Valois, whose arguments can be but of little force against the credit of sight. The Remarks that I made of it, are these.

The Manuscript hath Tibullus, Catullus, and Propertius at the be∣ginning, and not Horace, as the Preface to the Padua-Edition affirm∣eth. In Propertius is to be noted the Cognomen Nautae, that Scali∣ger taketh notice of in his Notes.

After these followeth in the same hand, and on the same sort of paper, eaten alike by the Worms, on the corners of the Margent, Petrontus Arbiter, as it is printed; whose Title, written in red Let∣ters, is as followeth.

Petronius Arbiter.
Petronii Arbitri Satyri fragmentum ex
Labro Quinto Decimo, & Sex∣to Decimo.

In which, among others, the Coena Trimalcionis is very amply related, as it is printed at Padua, and in Holland. After which, in a more modern hand is written Claudian. Dr. Statelius made us also take notice, that at the end of Catullus (which is of the Book pag. 179.) at the lower corner of the Margent (the corner of which is eaten off with the Worms, with several other leaves) is the Date, written in the same ancient hand with the P. Arbiter, Thus:

1423.20. Nobr.
Chapt. 6. Vers. 200.

Here we waited on Signior Dragatzo, Doctor of the Law, an ingeni∣ous and civil person also; who shewed us, in his Garden, and other places about the Town, half a dozen of ancient Roman Inscriptions,

which he would have made a present of to us, could we have had con∣venience to have transported them. Hence we returned again to Spalatro the same evening.

The Embassadour, being weary of the Sea by that time he arrived at Spalatro, resolved to make the rest of his Journey by Land, to the Grand Signior's Court, which was then at Adrianople. But the Gallies that accompanied him, and carried the Presents, which the State makes by every Embassadour to the Port, and his other Bag∣gage, proceeded as far as Corfu. Therefore so soon as the Horses were come, which were sent for four or five days Journey off, in the Turkish Territories, he departed by Land, and we with the Galles for Corfu, where they were to put all on board the Ships which waited there for that purpose.

July the Thirteenth, on Sunday-morning, by two a Clock, after eleven days stay at Spalatro, we parted, and came by noon to Lesina, which lieth Thirty miles from Spalatro.

[illustration] map of Lesina

LESINAE PORTUS L: j. Fig: VIII

Lesina is the Isle Ptolomy calls Pharia,* 1.14 and Strabo, Pharos. It is very high, rocky, and mountainous, and by computation a hundred miles in circuit. It hath a good Haven at the South-end, where the Town is called by the name of the Isle. It represents the Form of a Theater; whereof the Town possesseth the place of the spectators; yet appeareth most beautiful to those that enter the Area; which is the Port; being built in several degrees one above another, according to the rising of the ground; having a Cittadel on the top of a steep Rock, backed with exceeding high Mountains. It lies against the South, and hath a Harbour, secured from that Wind by the Roeks, that lie before it. They have beautified the Shore, on each side,

with a good Mole, made out of the Rocks, which there are in too great plenty. To conclude, it hath good Moorage, and is deep enough for Ships of any rate. Here is very good Bread and Wine, and good cheap I believe, for our Captain touched here to furnish himself with Biscuit. Their greatest Trade is Fishing of Sardelli; which are like Anchovies, and some think the same. In May and June they are caught here, and upon the Shore of Dalmatia, near L'Isa, South of this Isle, in such abundance, that they furnish all Parts of Italy and Greece with them. The Turks take them as Phy∣sick, when they are sick. They follow a light, and flock together about a Boat that carries it in the night; and so are caught with great facility.

With no small difficulty I gat on the top of the highest Mountain, that overlooketh the Town, and was recompensed for my pains with an unbounded prospect. Hence I discerned a Promontory near Zara, which the Watch-men upon it assured me was a hundred miles off. Hence Spalatro lies North Thirty miles, and Lissa as much to the South. Hence Ships, Gallies, Barques, and other Vessels, are dis∣cerned a vast way off, by the Watch-men, who give notice by signs to the Fort below, how many, what they are, and which way they fail.

There are several good Buildings here; especially the Domo and Town-house; and in a word, the situation is very agreeable.

In climbing up to the Fort and Mountain, I observed, among others, these Plants:

• 1. Aconitum Lycoctinum, flore Delphinii: which I took to be a kind of Monks-head.
• 2. Aloe, in flower.
• 3. Asphodelus Min. Junci folio, seu fistulosâ, non bulbosâ radice.
• 4. Malva Romana rubra, or red Holihachs.
• 5. Juniperus Major, or Oxy-cedrus:
• 6. Linaria tenui folio.
• 7. Genista, or Spartium septimum Bauhini, as I believe. Its Root is thick, and of substance like Pimpinella; out of which spring some half a dozen, or more branches, of a handful or two high, without leaves, of a light, green colour, and of a substance like Spanish-broom, but beyond comparison less: It still divides it self into three twigs; sometimes one of those three points divides it self into three more. That which makes me doubt whether it be this, as Monsieur Mer∣chaund of Paris hath named it, is, That the Root seemeth hot, and of a spicy taste.
• 8. Pilosella major pilosissima. This Plant is very like to Great Mouse∣ear, in leaves and height, being half a foot high, or more, and the leaves near as long. But the hair is of such a prodigious length, that it is to be wondred at; being little less than an Inch long, and very thick.

We parted hence after Dinner, and arrived that evening at Cur∣zola, called by Strabo Corcyra Nigra. This Island belonged formerly to the Republique of Ragusa, and was taken from them by the Ve∣netians, by this pleasant stratagem. The Venetians had a little Island,

called Saint Mark; so near to Ragusa, that it commanded the Town, and yet nearer a little Rock, that had no more plain ground on the top, then would be sufficient to lay the Foundations of a little house. Hither the Venetians, upon some high disgust, sent men one night, that built a little Fort of Past-board, painted of the colour of Earth, which made it look like a strong Rampart, and thereon planted Wooden Cannons, to the great amazement of the Towns-people next morning; which in effect put them into such a fright, that they sent presently to parly, and were glad to come off for the Island of Curzola in exchange of that pittiful Rock. They stood for the Sco∣glio of Saint Mark also; but the Venetians would not part with that. And so they lost Curzola, which is of great use to the Venetians, who come hither often to mend and repair their Vessels, the Island being well covered with Woods. The Town is of the same name with the Island, and situated upon a Peninsula. They say, that the Walls of it were built by Dioclesian. The Domo also, now dedicated to Saint Mark, is an ancient Edifice, and stands upon an Eminence in the middle of the Town, where all the streets meet. Upon one corner of the Front, on the top, is the Bust of a Woman with a crowned head. The people there believe it was Dioclesian's Empress; to which my companion gave little credit, having never seen it, neither in Medals nor in Statue: But it is without doubt ancient; as also the Church, built of Marble, dug in the Isle: and so are most part of the Houses; but not polished like the Palaces of Genua. It is a Bishops seat, and governed by a Venetian-Count. There are five Villages besides upon the Island, which are supposed to contain fourteen or fifteen hun∣dred Souls apiece; but the City not above one thousand. For the compass of the Walls is but small. The abundance of the Woods serveth for a refuge for several sorts of wild creatures, especially an Animal (as they say) made like a Dog; but which maketh a noise like a Calf, or Peacock. When they light any fire near the Woods in the night, they hear numbers of them howl together; which make a hideous noise: Those that hear them, would think they were people that cry a-far off. Of these we heard many between Smyrna and Ephe∣sus, when we had the misfortune to lose our way on the Plains, in a wet and thund'ring night, as I shall have occasion again to remem∣ber. To the North of this place, on the Continent, runneth a long slip of Land, which maketh a narrow Channel between the Main-Land and it, called Sabioneira; and thereon stands a Town of the same name, just opposite to this, belonging to the Republique of Ragusa, where they have many delightful and fruitful Gardens, as we were in∣formed.

This evening we advanced a little further in the Channel to a Con∣vent of Cordeliers, called Madonna del Scoglio, upon the shore of Sa∣bioneira. It was formerly a Greek Church, but now belongeth to Latin Monks. It was robbed by the Turks about Ten years ago; who then carried away the Tabernacle, and took the Holy Sacrament, and trod it under foot; which was, without doubt, done in indignation to the Roman Superstition; which is the cause that those Infidels are so scandaliz'd at the whole Christian Religion, that they will learn Ita∣lian

enough to upbraid the Franks (as they call all the Western Chri∣stians) with it. Canagli di Christiani, fate il Vestro dio, e lo Mangiate. You rascally Christians, who make your God, and eat him when you have done. But it is our duty, who enjoy so much liberty, and have often the opportunity, to teach them, how to make distinction between the glorious light of the Gospel we enjoy and profess, and the Ro∣man Superstition they with so much reason abominate. The adjoyn∣ing hill yields a good prospect, and hath on the top a little Church, dedicated to Saint Catharine. There you see the Sea on both sides of this long Tongue of Land; which is pleasantly covered with Woods of Myrtle-Trees, that were then in the flower, and made the whole Air thereabouts most fragrant. Here I saw Aloes in the Flower; and I judge the Stems of it were five or six yards high.

The next day we sail'd between Sabioniera, and the Isle Meleda, leaving Augusta more out at Sea between Curzola and that; and having past several other Rocks, or Islands we came to the Port Santa Croce, which belongeth to the Republique of Ragusa, and is the best I had seen all along those Coasts. The entrance into it is very good, and the Port large, deep, and secure, being every way Land-lock'd, by Mountains round it, covered with Vineyards, Gar∣dens, and Houses of pleasure, of the Raguzians. The City Ragusa is very near, but not seen from thence, by reason of a high hill in∣terposing. We had not the satisfaction to see it, because we suspected it to be infected with the Plague, but passed in sight of it next morn∣ing. The Ragusians have not recovered themselves yet, since the terrible Earthquake, that happened there about twelves years ago; by which the greatest part of their City, and Citizens, were swal∣lowed up by the Earth. I heard a Seaman, that was then in the Port Santa Croce, affirm, that they looked every minute, when their Ship should have been shaken in pieces on the water; a thing not ex∣plicable by any Phaenomena in nature that I know of. He told me also, that the water boiled like a pot; which was undoubtedly caused by the vapours rising from the Subterraneous Parts beneath the water. They here voluntarily put themselves under the protection of the Turks, to whom they pay tribute for the security they enjoy. The next day we passed by this place, and Raguza Vechia (or Old Ra∣guza), where is supposed was Epidaurus of the Ancients. Thence by Castle-novo, on the Channel of Catoro; the first place on these Coasts, that belongeth to the Turks. Here we put in at a Port, called Madonna de Janici, from a Chappel so called on the shore. From this place we had a good prospect of Castle-novo, within the Chan∣nel; which I took as well as I could.

[illustration] map of Castel Novo

Lib: j. Fig: IX CASTEL-NOVO

Hence after dinner we stood out to Sea, that we might shoot the Gulph of Londrin; but still within sight of Land, until we had passed Budua, the last place of the Venetians on these Coasts, and Dul∣cignia, which perhaps were those which Ptolomy calls Bulua and Ulcinium. We had no sooner lost sight of the Dalmatian-shore, but that we descried the Mountains of Macedonia. This Gulph was called anciently the Gulph of Apollonia, where Caesar escaped nar∣rowly with his Life and Fleet. It is a very dangerous passage, and is above a hundred and eighty miles over. And therefore lesser Barques are forced to make the compass round by shore, as my companion did in his return, who hath given us this account of it.

Going along the shore,* 1.15 we saw Dulcigno (in times past Ulcinium) belonging to the Turks, which may contain seven or eight thou∣sand Souls, and is an indifferent good Scale, that is to say in the Levant-language, a City of Traffique. The Franks have there a Consul.

Next is Durazzo; which was the Dyrrachium of the Ro∣mans, and is now but a Village, with a ruined Fort. At length we came to the Gulph of Boyana, with a River of the same name, that emptieth it self therein, and which was called Drillo in times past. On the same shore runs the River Pollona, to which the nearness of Apollonia hath given the name. The Water remaineth, but the Town is utterly destroyed: and there also stands Aulen, which by corruption is now called Valona. Thirty miles thence to Landward is a Mountain, where riseth a Fountain of Pitch, of which the Ancients make mention, and with which they caren Ves∣sels, being mixed with Tarr. The Rock Sassino, about six miles from Valona, boundeth the Gulph of Lodrino to the South-East.

Not far from Sassino, North-East, are the Fats of Piscaria, where they catch abundance of Fish. The ••ows they salt and dry in the Sun; which maketh Botargo; and the rest they pickle:

Passing this Gulph, in the morning, as soon as it was light, we perceiv'd a far off a small Vessel, that we took to be a Pirate; which as soon as it saw us, tacked about, and fled; and thereby confirmed us in that opinion, especially so soon as we perceiv'd that he made towards Vallona. But we pursued them so hotly, that in less than an hour we came within Cannon-shot of them, and fired two or three shot so near, as obliged them to strike sail, and come by our Lee. It proved nevertheless to be only a Barque of Cephalonia, laden with Cheese and Oyl for Venice; who took us to be as very Corsaires, as we did them; our Officers being sorry to have miss'd the Booty they expected; and the others glad, that they had escaped so well the dan∣ger they fear'd, we, each of us pursued our course.

Over against Sassino we had the prospect of those high Mountains, called formerly Acroceraunii, now called Chimera.* 1.16 Towards the Sea-side there are five or six Villages, which defend themselves against the Turks, and will not pay him the Carattle, or Tribute of Pole∣money. The principal of these Villages is called Chimera, situate upon the top of a Rock, having Precipices on all sides; whither all the Country-people retire, when need requireth. If they should be assaulted by Sea, they retreat into the Mountains, which are almost inaccessible, and drive away with them all their cattel: But if they are set on by Land, there are so many narrow passages, that they may be able to defeat an Army, meerly by tumbling down Stones upon them. They have a Harbour called Porto-panormo. They follow the Greek Religion, and in Spiritual affairs are subject to the Arch∣bishop of Janina, a Town in Thessaly, about two days Journey from thence. They are esteemed good Soldiers, being descended of the stout race of the Macedonians; and are as bad Robbers as the Mag∣notti, who are come of the Lacedemonians: Two people, in times past, equally famous for War, though now the off-spring of both be as infamous for Robbery: For they say, They will sell Turks to Chri∣stians, and Christians to Turks. The Wind being fair, we staied not at Sassino, but sailed on, until we came at the Island Corfu.

Corfu was formerly called Corcyra,* 1.17 as I find in many Greek Medals I brought with me from thence. An Island of ancient Fame, which had, without doubt, the Emperour Septimius Severus, and his Family,* 1.18 for its Great Benefactors. For there is lately found abundance of his Medals, and of Julia Domna his Empress, and of his Son Antoninus Caracalla, and of Plautilla his Empress; and of Geta, his other Son, (who both succeeded him in the Empire.) Those of Plautilla are rarely to be found any where else. Of which, because I have several Medals, not ordinarily to be met with, and no-where printed as I know of, except by its Worthy and Nobly - descended Historian, Cavalier Marmero, I shall for the satisfaction of the curious, here present the Reverses of them to publick view.

[illustration] map of Cassopo

Casiopia N. Cassopo Lib j Fig: X:

• A y^e Mountain of Corfu
• B y^e Ruines of Cassiopia
• C y^e Convent of Madonna di Cassopo
• D y^e Sea

The first place we arrived at, is a ruin'd City, called now Cassopo; but anciently Cassiopia, famous for the Temple of Jupiter Cassius: of which I have several Medals; especially one, which hath Jupiter sitting,* 1.19 with these Letters about it, ZEUC KATCIOC; on the other side the Head of Apollo crowned, with an Olive-branch behind,* 1.20 and his Harp before, with these Letters, ΚΟRΚΥRΑ. There is only remaining the Ruins of its Walls, on a Rock almost com∣passed about by the Sea.* 1.21 And hard by it a Church, called Panagia, as they name the Blessed Virgin, kept only by three or four Caloyers, or Greek Monks. This little Church is famous for a Picture of our Lady, to which they attribute Miracles, and whereof I had a mind to try the skill. The way is thus:

Strangers, that have a mind to know whether their Friends are alive or dead, go to the Picture, and clap a piece of money upon it, thinking of some friend. If the person they think of be alive, the piece will stick fast; but if dead, it will drop down into a Sack placed un∣der-neath: so that, dead or alive, the Priest is sure of the money. I applied some Farthings, which I had, to try how, and where they would stick; but had no other thought, nor end, being before well satisfied, that it was but a ridiculous jugling. Some of them indeed stuck, but all to one and the same place; those that were clapt on any where else, falling still to the ground. The Picture is painted up∣on the Walls, and is very smooth and shining; so that I attribute the sticking to some clamminess of the Varnish; which they take care, shall never be wanting in some places of it. Among the Ruins of the Castle, I saw a vast, great Snake; I believe above two yards long, and big as the small of a mans leg, of a dark brown colour; thicker also at the tail, than ours are; so that I take it to be a different

Species from ours. I saw another afterward of the same kind; but not so big.

The next day, being the Eighteenth of July, we came to the City, now called by the name of the Island. It is not a hundred years, since this City was nothing but the old Castle, and the present Suburbs of Castati. But now it is a good large City, and well fortified with Walls on the South, and two Castles at the East and West-Ends; though the side towards the Harbour be not so well fortified, as not so much needing it. It would be a Town almost impregnable, were it not for a Rock that standeth towards the West, and commandeth the adjoyning Fort, with a great part of the Town. The other Castle, or Fort, stands upon a Rock every way inaccessible, running out like a Promontory in the Sea. This is the place of Residence of the Venetian-Generals of the Levant by Sea and Land; and to whom, from the other Proveditours of Zant and Cephalonia, &c. Appeals may be made, and a new Hearing had of all Civil Causes before him, as Chief Judg under the Senate, as well as Chief Commander of all their Forces. He who had this Command then, was Signior Priuli. We being taken notice of here for designing places as we past, were taken for spies: So that order was given by the General, that none should be admitted into the Forts; insomuch, that we could not at that time well know their strength. But as I returned, and touched here, I had so much time as to see this Castle; which is well provided with Ammunition and Artillery. To the Westward of it is a large place, which they call the Splanade; from the middle of which be∣ginneth a large street, that runneth Westward thorough the City. On the right hand, in this street, standeth the Cathedral Church, dedicated to Saint Spiridion, first Bishop of that place, whose Body they are perswaded they have, and there with great Veneration pre∣serve it. They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since, restoring the sight to a blind man, who came, and prayed to him, prostrating himself before his Body. And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since; which happened when we were here. They make profession of the Greek Religion; but are in most things Latinized, except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome, the Infal∣libility of the Pope, and the Procession of the Holy Spirit. They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them; but there is a Latin one, and a Protopappa Greek. This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps; and one of Gold, given by a Gentleman of Corfu; who, by his Will, left Five thousand Cichins (which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling) to buy it.

Here are several ingenious men, and moderately learned; especi∣ally Cavalier Marmero, who hath writ the History of this place in Italian; and hath a Collection of Medals; but most of them, such as concern the Antiquity of the place.* 1.22 He is a person of great Worth and Honour, both as to his personal Qualities, and his Extraction, being descended of the Family Comneno, Emperours of Greece. This little digression, Reader, I owe to this Generous Friend, whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude.

The Protopappa, or Chief Priest, called Panagiotti Bulgary, is but young; yet Learned not only in Greek, but Latin. He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion; with a rela∣tion of his Life, to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople.

Hierassimo Machi, Abbot of Palaiopolis, is also a Learned man; who retired hither from Candia, after it was surrendred to the Turks. He hath a Study of a great many M. SS; amongst which are twenty, never yet printed: as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John, Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek; one of which I bought afterwards at Athens, among other Manuscripts, and the Sermons of Ephrem, an ancient Monk. He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot, Ancient and Vulgar Greek, Latin, and Italian; as also a Systeme of Philosophy.

He hath a Nephew, named Arsenio Calluti, who is also Learned in Latin, Greek, and Divinity, and is esteemed a good Preacher. He Studied at Padua, and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii, or All-Saints, in Palaiopoli. Among his Books he shewed us a Manu∣script of Saint John Damascen, never yet printed as I know of, and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works. And another, being a Com∣mentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church. There are also several other Learned men there, as namely Dr. Cap∣pello, young, but skillful in the Civil Law, and in other Gentile Learn∣ing. He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek, Latin and Italian, more ample than any yet extant. The Doctors Justi∣niani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there.

But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti, who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals, a great lover of Antiquity, and a very civil person. He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable, taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place. Sometimes he went with us a foot, and at other times, when need required, furnished us with his own and friends Horses, and always favoured us with his good company.

2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful, as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn; but they are provided from the Continent; from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over, near to Cassiopa. It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl, and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs, Filberds, and Cur∣rant-grapes, then scarce ripe; the Figs being a large, green kind, they call Fracassans, having in the middle a round lump of Jelly, of the bigness of a Nutmeg, very delicious, and refreshing in the heats of Summer. Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees.

I found several curious Plants in this Island; among others these:

• 1. Thymus Capitatus, a very rare Plant, and scarce ever seen in our Parts. I have furnished our Gardens with its seed; but it did not come up. I judg'd it to have been Savoury, until I informed my self better; because in smell it resembles that, rather than ordinary Thyme. But is undoubtedly that, which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus.

• 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio.
• 3. Scabiosa, flore nigrescente, caule altissimo; forsan Peregrina. B.
• 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius.
• 5. Malva trimestris.
• 6. Scammonea.
• 7. Polium Creticum.
• 8. Acarna, flore patulo rubente.
• 9. Stoechas odorata.
• 10. Centaurium majus, album.
• 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum.
• 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens.
• 13. Centaurium ramosum album.
• 14. Origanum Heraclioticum.
• 15. Vitex flore caeruleo, & albo.
• 16. Consolida regalis foetida.
• 17. Glichyriza.
• 18. Pulegii species, erecto caule, Latifolio, incano, vel hirsuto.

I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli, the ancient Metropolis of the Island. It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City, separated from it by a little Bay, of about a mile or two over. The abundance of Ruins and Foundations, which are to be seen there, do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so. The ground it covered is almost an Island, and therefore anciently called Chersopolis. It had on the South-West a good large Port, for Vessels of those days; but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops. The mouth is narrow, and was secured by a Chain; the place to which it was fastened, being yet to be seen. There has been formerly an Aqueduct, to bring fresh water to it, from a Spring, which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side; from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters, of about a yard long, and an inch thick apiece, curiously joyned to one another; whereof great quantities are found thereabouts. Besides abundance of Founda∣tions of Temples, Arches, Pillars, and Marble Inscriptions, have been dug up here, and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City. Signior Marmero, in his History, hath given a Plane of the old City; which is now covered all over with Olive-trees, and here and there an old Church standing among them: the two chief, that still remain, are Panagia, of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot, and Pantagi, whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector. The Portal of the first, whose Architrave is sustained by Corinthian Pillars of white Marble, hath an Inscription, shewing that it was built by the Emperour Jovia∣nus, after he was converted to the Christian Faith, and had destroyed the Heathen Temples: the meaning whereof in English is thus:

ΠΙϹΤΙΝ ΕΧΩΝ ΒΑϹΙΛΙΑΝ ΕΜΩΝ ΜΕΝΕ ΩΝ ϹΥΝΕ ΡΙΘΟΝ
ΕΛΛΗΝΩΝ ΤΕΜΕΝΗ ΚΑΙ ΒΩΜΟΥϹ ΕΞΑΛΑΠΑΞΑϹ
ϹΟΙ ΜΑΚΑΡ Υ ΨΙΜΙΔΟΝ ΤΟΝ ΔΙΕΡΟΝ ΕΚΤΙϹΑ ΝΗΟΝ
ΧΕΙΡΟϹ ΑΠΟΝΤΙΔΑΝΑϹ ΤΟΒΙΑΝΟϹ ΕΔΝΟΝ ΑΝΑΚΤΙ

[J. Jovian, having received the Faith, Established the Kingdom of my Power, and having destroyed the Heathen Temples and Altars, have built

to thee, O thou blessed and most high King, a holy Temple, a gift of an un∣worthy hand.] It is built much after the ancient Greek fashion, with a Dome in the middle, and a Porch for the Catechumeni. The other Church is built much after the former manner, and hath an Inscription on it; which Monsieur Spon thinketh to have been made about the sixth Century. Count Marmero hath taken the pains to transcribe and interpret it. It sheweth, that it was built by one Stephanus, Bishop of the place, for the remission of his Sins.

On the South-West side of Paloeopoli, about two or three miles off, is a Plain, well watered with several Brooks of fresh water, which make the soil fruitful. It is judged to have been the Gardens of Alcinous, King of this place, famous in Homer. It is called now by the Virtuosi Chrysida, and by the Country people Pezamili, from some Mills that are there. Here we were full of Homer, especially his relation of the Kings daughter Nausica's adventure; who going to Bathe her self with her Attendants, met with Ulysses cast upon that shore by a Storm. My Comerade telleth us,* 1.23 that he had seen a Medal of this brave Dame at Balogna; which he hath caused to be engraven as a great rarity. I have therefore thought it worth the copying also.

The Inhabitants of Corfu are of a very revengeful nature, never forgetting any injury done them; which is often the ruin of whole Families. For they espouse the quarrels of their Relations, from gene∣ration to generation, and persecute them, till one of the Parties, and sometimes both, be utterly extinct. They themselves confess and re∣late most barbarous adventures of this nature, that have happened in the Island. One I remember, though not the names of the Actors of that Tragedy. There happened a quarrel between two families, upon no great occasion at first; but at last was brought up to such a height, that several persons were killed on both sides; especially on his side, who was the principal party offended. This man, dying, left only a young Son; to whom, when he came to age several years af∣ter, it was proposed, that he should Marry a daughter of his Fathers enemy, that so all differences might be ended, and a lasting Peace made between the two families. After much sollicitation he agreed to it, so that a Dowry was concluded on, and Married they were, with a great deal of seeming joy. But not long after, having carried his new-married Wife home to his house, and having thither invited her Parents, Sisters, Brothers, and other Relations of hers, he perswaded them to stay all night, and barbarously Murder'd every one of them, Wife and all.

After we knew what Ships were determined to go to Constantino∣ple, we went and waited on the General to desire his favour, that we might have passage in one of them. They were in all six Sail; whereof Two Men of War, and a Merchant-man, were bound for Con∣stantinople; and the other, Three Men of War, no further than Tine, thither to carry a new Proveditor. The General, after a very civil Conference, gave us Warrant to Embarque on the Guerriera Con∣stante; being now informed that we were Gentlemen, and that it was meerly curiosity that made us so inquisitive.

The Twenty-first of July we went on board, and set sail for Zant; but the Wind being contrary, and having but little Sea-room between the Island and the Continent, our Boats were so short, that we made little, or no way, until the Third day. The Wind then tacking about to the North, we soon got out, and doubled the Southern Cape of the Island; beyond which there are some Flats, and Rocks by it above water; called Paxo, and Antipaxo, by the Venetians; but by Sanson, Pascu, &c. Afterwards we left the Island Saint Mauro, and be∣yond that, Cephalonia, the chief Island of Ulysses his Dominions: of which before I say any thing more, Monsieur Spon must give me leave to correct an error or two he hath committed, concerning Corfu, comparing it with Cephalonia, where he says, Afterward we passed in sight of the Island of Cephalonia, twice as big as that of Corfu: For that hath about an hundred and forty miles in circuit, and this not above se∣venty. Whereas Count Marmero sheweth, that Pliny counted Corfu Ninety-seven miles long, as he supposes, taking the Island Paxo with it, now distant from Corfu, ten miles; and he at present reckons it about seventy miles in length, and twenty broad at the North-West end, and ten at the South-East. Whence he concludeth it a hundred and eighty miles about. But his Map added, and published with his Book, if measured by his Scale, maketh it eighty miles long, and from thence ten to Paxo; which Scoglio perhaps makes the other seven mentioned by him. However I do agree that Cephalonia is the bigger Island; for although it be not much longer than Corfu, it is as wide again.

Cephalonia is fruitful in Oyl, and excellent Wines,* 1.24 especially red Muscatels (which we call Luke Sherry), and in those Grapes whereof Currans are made, that yield considerable profit. The place of residence of the Proveditor is Argostoli, where there is a large Port, every way Land-lock't, but hath no good Anchoridge. At the mouth of the Port indeed is another Village, called Luxuri, but not many Curran-Merchants reside there, as he saith, for Zant is the place of their ordinary Residence, where they come yearly to buy up the Currans to transport. A little while since here happened a kind of Civil War between two families. They made a faction of fifty or threescore of a side; who gave combat to each other, and fought as bloodily, as Turks would do against Christians. The Venetian Governours had not power enough to appease the quarrel. But after they were weary, they made peace upon condition, that the one party should not enter into the others quarters on pain of death. There is a Harbour on the East-side of the Island, where we cast Anchor upon our return from Zant to Venice. It is called Pescarda, proper only for little Vessels. There is to be seen here a little ruined Village, where nothing now remains, but a small Church, and some few Caloyers.

Over against Pescarda is the Isle Thiaki, separated from it only by a Streight of three or four miles over; for which reason some call it Little Cephalonia. The likeness of its name hath made it be taken for Ithaca, one of the principal Isles of Ulysses his Kingdom, and is placed there by Sanson and Sophianus. But they may be de∣ceived.

For Strabo, speaking of Ithaca, gives it but eighty Stadia about, which maketh about ten Italian miles: and this Island is at least the double. Therefore I believe, that Ithaca is another little Island, seven or eight miles from hence, called yet Ithaca; which is much less than this; I believe anciently called Dulichium, because it hath at the East-side a Port, with the Ruins of a Town called yet Dolichia, as Strabo observed, it was called in his time; which to me is satisfaction enough; though Strabo notwithstanding seemeth to favour those that take Thiaki for Ithaca. But, perhaps, Strabo him∣self did not know the true situation; the ancient names being in his time changed. For, lastly, if we have recourse to what Homer hath said of it, it seemeth that Dulichium was none of the Isles Echinades, as the Geographers after-him have judged; however it is a question not so easily decided. Two English Ships go yearly to this Thiaki, to lade Currans. The Isle is cultivated by the Inhabitants, who are reduced to three Villages, called Onoi, Vathi, and Oxia. In a Wood there are to be seen the Ruins of an old Castle; which the Islanders tell you, was the Palace of Ulysses. As to the Isle Ithaca, it is de∣sert, and those of Thiaki go thither to till it in its seasons. The Isle of Cephalonia in Homer's time was called Samos, and had a Town of that name; which should not have been far from the Port Pescarda, of which we have already spoken. Cephalonia was the greatest Island of Ulysses his Kingdom; and I wonder that Strabo maketh it not above Three hundred Stadia in circuit; which amount but to Thirty-eight Italian miles; and Pliny no more than Forty-four miles; although indeed it hath more than a hundred and twenty miles in compass. But I will not find fault with the ancient Geographers, since our Moderns, who beside the old Geography, have the re∣lations of the ages since, do notwithstanding make most gross mi∣stakes in their Maps of these parts. Of Saint Mauro, he continueth thus:

Since we are in the Kingdom of Ulysses, let us not quit it so soon, but speak something of the Island Saint Mauro.* 1.25 This Island was an∣ciently called Leucada; and the Modern Greeks call it so yet: for the Castle only is properly called Saint Mauro, from a Convent which stood there, whilest it was under the Venetians. Returning to Venice we were obliged to touch at a Port of it,* 1.26 called Climeno, which is the best in the Island, having good Depth and Anchoridge. From thence the phansie took us to go see the Fortress, and to that end took a Boat, called Monoxylo, to carry us thither. We rowed four or five hours in the narrow Channel, that separates it from the Continent, before we arrived at it. Strabo-saith, that it was anciently joyned to the Land; and that this Streight was dug to separate it; which is likely enough. For in the streightest part it doth not much exceed fifty paces over, and almost everywhere three or four foot of water. It is in this narrowest part of the Streight, that the ancient City, Leucada, had its situation, upon an Eminence a mile from the Sea; of which some Remains are yet to be seen; having for its Port the whole Channel, especially those Parts, where there was Water enough. Ortelius and

Ferrarius are mistaken, in believing, that this City was, where now Saint Mauro stands. They have not been upon the place, to find, that Saint Mauro is three miles from thence, in the middle of the Channel, where it is a League over. The Fortress is good, and hath some round Bastions, situated upon a very low ground. But that, which renders it considerable is, that it neither can be approached to by Land, nor Sea, unless in those Monoxylo's, or little Barques, which draw not above a foot of water. It is separated by a ditch of thirty, or forty foot wide, from two little Islands, which are as the Suburbs to the Fortress, and are inhabited by Turks and Greeks. Their Houses are very low, and built of wood: But to make amends, they them∣selves go very well cloathed, and are great Pirats in those Seas. The Basha of the Morea came thither this year on purpose, to burn their Galliots, or little Gallies; whereof Durag Beg, a famous Pirate of Lepanto, had formerly seven or eight under his Command. We left our little Boat ashore, and went to Saint Mauro on an Aqueduct a mile long, which serveth as a Bridge for those that will go thither on foot, though it be not above a yard broad, and without any hold; which would make the stoutest man tremble in passing it, especially if he meet any other thereon. For it is as much as two can do to pass by one another. There is above Five or six thousand Inhabitants in the Cittadel and Suburbs. But we had made but very hard cheer there, without the Fish we carried with us; for we found nothing there, but bad Wine, bad Bread, and worse Cheese. There are about Thirty Villages in the Island, inhabited by poor Greeks, that manure the Land, and catch Fish; Being under the Jurisdiction of a Bishop, whose Re∣venues apparently are but mean. The Isle is fruitful enough in Corn, Oranges, Limons, Almonds, and Pasture for their Cattel; and is about Thirty, or Forty miles in compass. The Castle of Saint Mauro is not above a dozen miles from the Gulph of Ambracia, now called the Gulph de L'arta; near which was the renowned City, Actium, famous for the Battle of Augustus Caesar against Mark-Antony; but at present there is no more talk of this City.

Not being willing to go thither, we discoursed an Understanding man of L'arta; who assured us, that L'arta, or Arta, was not Ambracia,* 1.27 as our Geographers do warrant. But that the City of Ambracia, which gave name to this Gulph, is above a days journey from thence; and is yet called by the Country people Ambrakia; though now but a Vil∣lage about a mile from the Sea, just in the bottom of the Bay. That there is a Kanne there, which serveth for a Warehouse, for the Mer∣chandises, that are brought thither. That the Town Arta is at least sixteen miles from thence upon the River; which probably is the Ache∣ron of the Ancients; and which according to Pliny dischargeth it self into the Gulph of Ambracia. Vouro-potami is the Vulgar name of a River, which one passeth, coming towards Ambracia, and is, without dispute, that which in times past was called Aracthus; although it pass not so near the Town Ambracia now: perhaps, being bigger in old time, it extended it self even to it.

The mouth of this Gulph is not above a mile and half wide, al∣though it is above Threescore miles about. On the left hand there is a Fortress of Turks, not quite so well peopled, as Saint Mauro. It is called Prevenza, and is the place of the ancient Nicopolis, built by Augustus, in memory of his Victory over Mark-Antony. In Arta are reckoned seven or eight thousand Inhabitants; whereof the num∣ber of the Greeks exceedeth that of the Turks. Signior Manno Man∣nea, a rich Merchant of that place, told me, that the Cathedral Church of this place, called Evangelistra, that is, the Annunciation, is a great Building, that hath as many doors and windows, as there are days in the year, and that it is sustained by above Two hundred Marble Pillars. He added, that an Inscription over the door sheweth, that it was built by Duke Michael Comneno. This Town, and the Country round about, Traffick in Tobacco, Botargo, and Furrs; with which they drive a great Trade.

The Archbishop of Arta made his Residence, in times past, at Le∣panto; which he now hath left, because there are but few Christians there. He had anciently eight Suffragans: But the Emperour John Palaeologus divided his Province into two Archbishopricks, to raise that of Janina. The Cities, that are left to Arta, are, 1. Ragous, a little Town, ten miles from Prevenza. 2. Ventza, a Town and Castle, on the other side of the Gulph. 3. Astos, an inland Town, two days Journey from Arta: and 4. Acheloou, which taketh his name from the River Acheloous. The Bishop of this place maketh his Residence at Angelo-Castro; and hath also Zapandi, Massa-longi, and Anato∣lico in his Diocess.

Janina is a Town, bigger than Arta, peopled by rich Greek Mer∣chants. Its Archbishop has under him four Bishopricks. 1. Argiro-Castro, no great Town. 2. Delbeno, which is but a Village. 3. Bu∣trinto, under which are the Villages of the Mountain Chimaera. 4. Glykeon, so called from a River called Glyki: and this last Diocess is extended from Paramythia t•• Pourga, a Fortress belonging to the Venetians, upon the Sea-Coa••••. And thus far Monsieur Spon.

But it will not be amiss (perhaps) to let you know, what these Boats, called Monoxyla, are, so often made mention of. They are Boats made of the Body of a Tree, all of one piece, as the name implyeth, about fifteen, or twenty foot long, two foot wide, and a foot and half deep, or thereabouts. They were not unknown to the Ancients. Hesychius saith, that the Cyprians called them 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, perhaps because they were made of Oak, called in Greek 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Heliodo∣rus also mentions Monoxyla in his History. They sit in the bottom of them, and Row with two Padlers, or little Oars. Monsieur Spon saith, he saw two Horses pass in them over the narrowest part of the Streight, between the Land and Saint Mauro; which otherwise I could not have thought them capable of. I saw them used at Mesolongia, and Nathaligo, to carry Currans over the Flatts, on board Ships lying in the road before those places.

But its now time to pursue our Voyage to Zant; where we arrived the Twenty-fourth of July Old, and the fourth of August, New Stile.

[illustration] map of Zant

ZACYNTHUS N. ZANTE L. i. Fig: XI

Zant is but a little Island (I believe not above Thirty miles about);* 1.28 But to make amends, is one of the most fruitful and pleasant places I ever saw. It lieth in 36 degrees, 30 minutes of Northern Latitude, South from Cephalonia, about ten miles and more, off the Morea near thirty miles East, and hath the Gulph of Lepanto N. E. In old time it was called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Zacynthos, as I have seen on several Medals; especi∣ally on one, which I saw in Sir Clement Harbie's hands,* 1.29 the Consul of this place, who gave me leave to design it. It hath on the one side the head of some Deity, and on the Reverse Apollo's Tripos, under a ra∣diant Sun, with these Letters about it, ΖΛΚΥΝΘΙΩΝ. The Greeks still call it Zacynthos, the Italians Zanté, and we Zant. It hath been called by Boterus the Golden Island; which it well deserves, because of the fruitfulness and pleasantness of its foil and abode. But it now more truly merits that name from the Venetians, who draw so much Gold, by the Curran-Trade, from hence and Cephalonia, as beareth the ordinary charge of their Armada at Sea. It is governed by a Venetian Proveditor, and hath one good Port, though it lieth a little bleak to the North-East Wind; and another on the South-side; but is dangerous to those that are strangers to it. Between these two Ports runneth a long Promontory Eastwards, on which is a high Moun∣tain, called Madonna di Scoppo, from a Church there; where there is a Picture, that they perswade themselves works Miracles. The Town is stretched along the shore, and is very populous; as is also the whole Island; wherein, beside the City, are reckoned fifty Towns and Vil∣lages. The Town is backt towards the West with a Fort, situated upon a steep hill; which casteth such a reflexion of the Sun upon it, as ma∣keth it extreme hot in Summer, and almost an English Summer in the coldest Winter. This Hill abounds with many Springs of excellent

good fresh Water: which, although they rise, some not above twenty paces from the Sea, and others nothing near so much; yet they are so high above the surface of the water, as may confute the vulgar error, that would have all Fountains to take their Original from the Sea. For here from high Mountains they powre themselves into it, as from Monte di Madonna di Scoppo, the Fountain Grundinero doth. But if they understand that the Sun first draweth the water out of the Sea into Clouds, and lets it drop down again in Rain or Snow, upon the Hills; from whence it collects it self into subterraneous Channels, and so breaks out again in Springs, I will be of their opi∣nion: But not that it passeth from the Sea in subterraneous Channels to the Fountain, and thence back again from whence it came, above ground: Unless they first prove, that in Water the contrary Qualities of Gravity and Levity cohabit together. This is plain also if we consider, that Springs are never far from some Hill, or Mountain. And that in many dry Summers, where the Hills are not high, and large they abate in their Water, and are often dried quite up: which could never be, if they came immediately from the Sea. For that is never wasted, at least sensibly. We may therefore wonder, and adore the Wisdom of the great Creator of All things, that hath laid the Earth in heaps, and hath lifted up the Rocky Mountains to the Heavens; which we ignorantly call Barren, and the Fable Mocks for only bringing forth of Mice: when they like good, though aged Fathers, fur∣nish their children the Valleys with such plentiful supplies of streams, as render them so abundantly fruitful, and their Fields to stand so thick with corn, and every thing else that is good and beautiful, that they seem really to laugh and sing.

The Town is well built of Free-stone; but the Buildings not very high, by reason of the frequent Earth-quakes that happen there: which in the Spring are, some years, once or twice a week, and so shake all the houses, that the Stone-walls of them are all full of great cracks. One happened while I was there, at my return from Athens, during my Quarentine in the Pest-house. That day it happened the Sun looked of a yellowish colour, which was looked upon as ominous. I was sitting leaning upon a Table; when on the sudden the Earth was so prodigiously shaken, that I thought the place (which was but one story high) would have immediately fallen on my head, it gave such a crack, and the Chairs, Stools, and Table so clashed together, that they rattled again. The unusualness of the thing made so deep an im∣pression on my phansie, that I hardly believed the Earth stood still, so long as I staid on the Island after it. But the Inhabitants are so used to them, that they make little or nothing of them.

They profess the Greek Religion, but are much Latinized in Do∣ctrine, although they extremely hate the Roman Church. They are not allowed a Bishop, but a Protopappa; and submit themselves to the Bishop of Cephalonia. There is here a Latin Bishop; whom they are hardly constrained to use civilly. A new one arrived while I was there; and when he made his publick entry, the Greek Priests were commanded to attend him to the Cathedral Church in the Fort. He was likewise attended by the several Orders of Fryers, that have

Convents there; who sung his entry after the Latin way: but were derided by the Greeks that followed them. They have a great many little Churches, both within and without the Town. The best is that of Hagia-panda, or All-Saints; which is situated in the place leading to the Mole. Its Pappa hath the repute of a learned man, and a good Preacher. He is of Candia, hath a good Study of Manuscripts, which he brought from thence, and is called Pappa Agapito.

That of Saint Nicolo likewise is well furnished with the offerings of Seamen, and is situated upon the Mole.

2. The Church of Saint Helias lieth above the Town, on the right hand of the way leading to the Cittadel. It is a pretty pleasant place, set round with Orange-trees; and is beside remarkable for the fame of Cicero's Tomb, which (as some have written) hath been found there, with an Inscription upon it, mentioning him, and his Wife Tertia Antonia; whereof now there remains nothing but the bottom of an Urn of Porphyry. Nor could we learn what was become of the rest; there being none at Zant so curious concerning the antiquity of their Country, as at Corfu.

I. Towards the point that lieth opposite to Cephalonia is a little Greek Church, called Santa Veneranda, about which the English used formerly to bury their dead; but since upon some dispute with the Pappa, they have lately altered their place of burial; it being made a mile or two off the Town, at a little Church in the Plain behind the Castle. At the first are several Monuments of our English Merchants, who have left their Bodies there; but few marks of their Religion are to be observed, whether of the living, or the dead, in this, and in several other of our Factories abroad; to the great dishonour of the Reformed Religion; there being none to administer comfort to their Souls, by preaching the Word, or administring the Sacraments to them, when they are in health, or in the greatest extremities of sick∣ness and death. For they have neither Church, Chappel, nor Priest. So that they seem to the people of the place to live without Religion, and to dye without hope, as they really are buried without decency. This is a very great scandal to those without; and therefore a very great fault in those within our Church. You shall no-where see a Fa∣ctory of the Roman Religion, but they will have one, or more Priests, when, perhaps, they are not well able to maintain themselves. But ours on the contrary are rich, wealthy, and able to maintain many; but will keep none. I commend the piety of one of our Countrymen there; who, although he be not too great a friend to our Churches Discipline, yet hath offered to pay his proportion to the maintenance of a Priest of our Church, and to be his Auditor. But although this be the real fault of this and such other of our Factories; yet because it gives occasion of reflection upon our Church, and the Ex∣cellent Religion we profess, to its ignorant or malicious enemies abroad; it would, in my opinion, be a matter highly becoming the pious Zeal of our Reverend Fathers, to whom God hath committed the care of his Church, to consider of some proper Expedients, if any may be found, to prevent such Scandals, and supply the defects of this nature in Foreign Countries, with whom we have any, although but small Commerce.

3. There was, at that time indeed, at Zant an Athenian, called Demetrio Bernizelo, who hath the reputation of the Learned'st Man amongst the Greeks. He understands the ancient Greek and Latin well, as also the Modern Greek and Italian, hath studied Philosophy and Divinity, and is permitted to preach, though he be not in Orders. He told us, that Hieromonacho Damasceno of Athens, was dead not long since, whose Eloquence and Learning are much celebrated by Guil∣letier in his New and Old Athens; to whose Romantick Pen, the honest School-Master, I believe, was beholding, since his only Talent was to teach to Write and Read: which goes a great way in the Grecian Learning now-a-days.

This is now the chief Island from whence the Currans come, where∣of we make so many pleasant dishes here in England. They borrowed their name from Corinth, the famous City near the Isthmus of Morea, and are therefore called in Latin Uvae Corinthiacae, or Grapes of Corinth. But none of them now grow there; being (perhaps) neglected, be∣cause they have no Vend for them; the Turkish jealousie permitting no great Ships to enter into that Gulph. They grow not upon Bushes, like our red and white Currans, as is vulgarly thought: but upon Vines, like other Grapes; only their leaf is something bigger, and the Grape much smaller than others: They are also without stones; and in those parts are only red, or rather black. But when I passed by Piacenza in Italy, I saw White ones of this kind, only differing in colour. They grow in a most pleasant Plain, behind the Castle, encom∣passed about with Mountains and Hills, which hemm in the Island. This Plain is divided into Vineyards, mixed with Olive, Cypress-trees, and Summer-houses of pleasure: All which from the Castle, and the Top of Monte di Scoppo make a most pleasant Prospect. In August, when they are ripe, they are laid thin on the ground, until they are dry: then are they gathered together, cleaned, brought into the Town, and put into Ware-houses they call Seraglio's; into which they are powred through a hole above, until the Room be filled up to the top. By their own weight they cake so together, that they are forced to dig them out with piked Irons; and this they call Stirring. When they barrel them up to send into these Parts, a man getteth into the Fat with bare legs and feet; and as they are brought and powred in, he still keeps a stamping and treading of them down, to make them lye close together. They are worth here about Twelve Dollers the Thousand, or little more or less; and pay as much to the State of Ve∣nice for Custom. The Island beareth enough of them yearly to charge five or six Vessels: Cephalonia three or four, and Nathaligo, Mesalongia, and Patras one: of which some few are brought down from the Gulph of Lepanto.

To maintain this Trade, the English have a little Factory here, con∣sisting of a Consul, and five or six Merchants. The Dutch have a Con∣sul, and one or two Merchants; and the French have a Consul and Merchant in the same person. The English have the chief Trade here; and good reason they should: for I believe they eat six times as much of their fruit, as both France and Holland do. The Zantiots have not long known what we do with them; but have been perswaded,

that we use them only to Dye Cloth with; and are yet strangers to the luxury of Christmas Pies, Plum-potage, Cake and Puddings, &c. Amongst the English Merchants is Mr. Pendames, to whom I was much obliged; as for other civilities, so for his courtesie in shewing me the Island; and in it one of the greatest curiosities that I have seen any where. It is the Pitch, or Tarr-Fountains of Zant. They are not above seven or eight miles from the Town: But we made, I believe, twice as far by Sea. For we had to pass about, from this Port, a long Pro∣montory, stretched out toward the Morea, and thence to return to the Port on the other side of it. In that Bay are two other little Rocks, or Islands; one of which is called Marathronesa, or the Fennel-Island, from the abundance of that Plant, which groweth there, called in Greek 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. In it there is only a little Church, with a Caloyer or two, who look to a Woman they pretend is possessed with a Devil. But, as my companion saith, it is a foolish one. For it told us, that he was of Joadua, though it could not speak one word of Italian; nor could it tell of what Country we were, or whether Married, or Bat∣chelours; nor indeed make any pertinent answer, but speak all in Rhime, but little to the purpose.

The Pitch-springs rise at the foot of an high Mountain, at the bot∣tom of this Gulph, about a hundred paces from the Sea. The Pitch issueth out of the Earth, with the water, in Lumps, or Balls, sometimes as big as an Hasel-nut, sometimes as a Wall-nut; and riseth not pre∣sently to the top of the Water; but in a while after doth. It is like other Pitch in colour, but hath a strong smell, as near as I could guess, like Oyl of Amber. It is first soft, but by lying in the Sun grows hard. They gather about ninety, or an hundred Barrels thereof yearly: of which the State hath every Tenth, which they save as it rises, and Barrel it up, and the owners sell the rest for two Gazets the pound, which is not a half-peny English. When the Wind blowed West, that is, over the Mountain, at the foot of which this Spring lieth to the East; and when there are Earthquakes, it Vomiteth forth this Pitch in greater abundance, than at other times. Whence one may conjecture, that some subterraneous fire is the cause of it; which feeding upon sulphureous and bituminous matter; what by reason of its small Vent it cannot devour, it sends forth in this black sub∣stance. The manner, that I have seen Pitch made, confirms me in this opinion: which is thus. They find some bank of ground, wherein they dig a hole about two yards Diameter at ••e top, but very narrow at the bottom; into which they put the Wood of Pines, chusing the most sappy, and cleaving them into small splints; then place them an end, one above another, until the hole is full. When this is done, they set all on fire at the top, which by the Wood burneth still down∣ward; and as it burneth, the Pitch distilleth to the bottom; and so by a little hole is saved as it issueth forth. Thus may this great Moun∣tain be compared to a great Pitch-pit.

In the Duke of Modena's Dominions, not far from his Country-house of Pleasure, but nearer a Village called Sassolo, is a Mountain named Zebio, that sometimes burneth out in a light flame at the top. like that of Vesuvius and Aetna, but not with any great fierceness.

At the top is no hole to be seen, but only a place about a yard Dia∣meter, filled with a muddy water, which continually boileth up in bubbles, sometimes only of air, sometimes of water, streaked with a greasie, and sutty-colour'd substance. This Water is of a white muddy colour of it self, like the Soil of the Mountain, which is of a whitish Freestone for the most part. At the foot of this Mountain are two Springs of Oyl; the one of a reddish, and the other of a clear colour, like ordinary Oyl. Of this great part sweateth out of the Rock, and part issueth out with Water, and is called Petrolium in La∣tin, and Olio Disusso in Italian. Both smell alike, although they be not of the same colour; and both of the same smell with this of Zant. The subterraneous fire is undoubtedly the reason of this; and that it is clearer, and thinner of substance, may be, by reason that it is Fil∣trated thorough a more condensed matter, than that of Zant: But this is not peculiar to hot Countries, for I received lately from Scotland an account of a Well of Oyl, not far from Edenburgh, with a bottle of the same Oyl from my Worthy Tutor, Dr. Hicks, Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of Lauderdale. This is of a black colour, like that of Zant, but is thinner; the smell neither so grateful, nor so strong.

Beside the Curran-Grapes, whereof I have already spoken, and which are now ripe, the Island affords other Vines, that yield good, though very strong Wine; but which bears water so well, that it may be made as small as Venetian Garbo, and yet better tasted, and as brisk. The red Wine endures the Sea very well; but the Muskatels not; though they are very delicious, and in great plenty here. They make also abundance of excellent Oyl; but it is not permitted to be Exported by Foreigners, no more than the Wine: only what the Island can spare, is sent to Venice.

Here are the best Mellons (I dare confidently say) in the World, if I may compare them with what I have eaten in England, France, Italy, and Turky. They are especially of Two kinds, White and Yellow. The White hath its Pulp of a pale, green colour, and has a perfumed taste and smell, as if they were seasoned with Amber∣grease. Their shape is not so long, or oval, as ours commonly are, but a short, and flat round, in shape of a Boul: nor are the Ribs covered with such a Fret work, but smooth. The Yellow ones are like the White for shape, and are not known from them, until opened: but are not esteemed quite so good. The Peaches here are extraordi∣nary good, and big, w••••ghing from ten, to fifteen, or sixteen Ounces. Here are also Citrons, Oranges and Lemons in abundance. One sort of Lemon is very extraordinary, and seldom seen in England. For beside their largeness, and thinness of skin, filled with excellent sharp juice, they are without either seed, or stone. Here are also abun∣dance of curious Plants.

The curious Plants I here took particular notice of, are these:

• 1. Genista, seu Spartium, a small shrub, growing on the Cliffs, bearing many Silver-colour'd leaves, on little Twigs; which are suc∣ceeded with a knot of small Golden flowers; whose little cod, or seed,

• being pass'd, the twigs that remain become sharp thorns.
• 2. Convolvulus, with a large purple flower, and leaves like Sagit∣taria, or Arrow-head. This I found among the Pitch-Springs.
• 3. Prunella Spinosa.
• 4. Coris Matthioli. G. 544.
• 5. Gossipium. Here I first saw the Cotton Plant grow; which is an Annual lant, sown in Fields, as we do Hemp and Flax; but altoge∣ther unlike them. It hath a Stalk a foot high, beset with leaves like Maple, divided into three, sometimes four parts; from among which leaves come yellow flowers, like Mallows, or Holly-hacks in shape, set in a cup, consisting of three green leaves, nipped about the edges. This, the flower being past, filleth it self up with a shell, like a Nut, crouded full of Cotton, with two or three round seeds in it.
• 6. Anagallis Aquatica 3tia Lob.
• 7. Glaux Dioscordis, as hath been thought by some. It is like Gra∣men Burgundiacum in substance, and leaves, and the flower also ends in branches, but of a blewish purple colour: which are succeeded by cods, each divided into two or three round, rough, and flat shells, joyned to each other; in each of which is a seed like a Tare.
• 8. Cistus, Plantaginis folio. This hath four or five leaves lying flat on the ground, long, hairy, and sinewed, like the middle kind of Plantan; from which groweth a stalk of a foot high, beset, at several distances, with smaller long leaves; at the top it is divided into several branches of bright, and yellow flowers, with black bottoms. This I found only upon Monte di Scoppo.
• 9. Lychnis, with Flowers, speckled, like the Strawberry-pricks.
• 10. A small Plant like Hyssop, or Savoury, but thin, and downy, with small tender flowers on the top, like Geranium, not divided into leaves, but a certain cup of a reddish colour, full of purple veins.
• 11. Cicerum Creticum.

July the Twenty-eighth, after four days stay at Zant, we went aboard again our former Ship, called the Guerriera Costante, Com∣manded by Captain Zoane Bronze, Native of Perasto, a Town in Albania. He was formerly a Pirate, and for his Valour well known, and feared by the Turks, and reverenced by the Corsairs. He is esteemed one of the stoutest Soldiers the State of Venice hath in its service. They tell of him, that in his younger days he was at Perasto, on a time when it was assaulted by a party of Two thousand Turks, and they in the Town not above Fifty-nine persons: yet for all that they made such vigorous resistance, that they slew a great part of the Turks, razed their Batteries; and in conclusion, made such a Valo∣rous Excursion upon them, as made them desist from their enter∣prize.

By a North-wind we put out, and left the Promontory di Scoppo on the right hand; but not without saluting the holy Image on the top of it, for luck sake. Not long after we passed the Isles Strophades, called now Strovadi, or Strivalli, thought by the ancient Poets to be the refuge of the Harpies. They are judged about Fifty miles from Zant, and Thirty from the Morea, very low, and the biggest not above

Five miles in circuit: Nevertheless they report, that there is such plenty of fresh water there, that one cannot thrust a stick into the ground, but water gusheth out in the place; which makes them very fertile. They also say, that in the Fountains of this Isle are often found Plane-tree leaves; though none grow upon the place, but only in the Morea: which makes them believe, and not without reason, that their Original is from thence, and by subterraneous Channels they are brought thither. Here is a Covent of about fifty, or sixty, Greeks in it; who defend their miraculous Madonna, by several Bastions, planted with good Canons, for fear of the Corsairs; though they say, the very Turks of Barbary have a respect for those Reverend Fathers, and seldom put a shore here, but to take in fresh water. For great Ships they report it to be inaccessible, except in very moderate and calm weather; there being so many Flats about it, and no shelter for them.

About Threescore miles further we doubled the Cape Sapienza, an∣ciently called on the West-side Coriph Promontorium, on the East Acriti Promontorium; before which lie, in a row, the little Islands Sapienza, Carrera, and Venetica, well known to the Pirates of Bar∣bary, who use to skulk with their Vessels behind them, attending the Barques that come out of the Gulph of Venice, and others which they can master, bound that way for the Levant. We were not far from these Islands, passing the Gulph Corone, called formerly Sinus Messe∣niacus, when a Saylor from the Main-top-Mast made Ten Sail of great Ships, steering the same course as we did. Upon this we fired a Gun to give notice to the Commander of our Discovery, hoisting and low∣ring ten times our Ensign, to denote the number of Sail. He imme∣diately spared Sail, and made as little way as was convenient, con∣sidering a fair Nor-West Wind; which we had almost a poop. The like we did, and with all speed prepared for an Engagement; knock∣ing down all the Cabbins, and throwing Chests and Hammocks into the Hold. They loaded the Guns, put out the wast-cloaths, and quar∣tered the Soldiers in their several Posts, being as yet uncertain, whe∣ther they were friends, or enemies. They suspected them to be Alge∣rines, or some other Fleet of African Pirates. Some feared they were French-men, in whom they had no great confidence; because they had lately denied some of the French Kings Ships, coming from Me∣sina, liberty to take in Provision at Zant; and therefore they knew not how it might be resented. However, whether Friends, or Enemies, they thought it not safe to trust either, whereby they might be sur∣prized. It was three hours before they came up to us, although they made all the Sail they could: which made us believe, that they were either Dutch or English Merchant-men, (feeing they were so flow) and not Pirates, or Men of VVar; who use to be better Sailers. But at length, when they came nearer, we discerned them to be Hollanders by their Ensigns, which were striped of Blew, VVhite, and Red. Thus all our great preparations for fight ended in amicable salutes to each other, expressed by sound of Trumpets, Drums, and Cannon. Our Admiral carried the Banner of Saint Mark upon his Main-Top-Mast, as Capitan Denavi; which is the highest Charge at Sea under

this State. And therefore it fell to the Hollanders share to come by our Lee, and salute first. Their Admiral was young De Ruiter; who only as Vice-Admiral of that Squadron, carried his Flag on the Top-Mast head. His Ship passed first, and all the rest in order after him salu∣ting; which we still answered with the same respect. After which De Ruiter sent two Officers to complement the Capitan Denavi; and so took leave of us.

We were becalmed that night, so that we found our selves next morning in the same Gulph still opposite to Corone. But a moderate gale arising with the Sun, not long after we doubled the Cape Me∣tapan, called in old time Promontorium Taenarium. The Bay beyond it is called Brazza Dimagnio, from the City Magnia, situated at the bottom thereof. The Magnoti, who are the Inhabitants of that Coun∣try, are famous Pirates by Sea, and Pestilent Robbers by Land. They have always bravely defended themselves against the Turks, and main∣tained their Liberty, till lately by this stratagem the Turks were too hard for them. They got their consent to build two Forts upon their Coasts; which they did so advantageously, as soon made them Ma∣sters of their City, and them. And now none of them are exempted from paying Tribute, but a few in the Mountains. And some have quit their Country, and are retired into Ponglia, where the King of Spain hath assigned them an habitation. They are naturally such Thieves, that when any Vessel cometh into their Harbour, they will go by night, and cut the Cables of their Ships, when they can find nothing else to lay hold of; which sometimes endangers the Vessels running a shore, when not discover'd in time. Some Mariners of this place, that were on board of us, gave us this account of their Country, with many diverting Stories of the same nature; which they glory in. One of the Officers of our Ship, who had been at the Town, related a Story, that well expresseth their Thieving nature. Some strangers being at one of the Villages of these Magnoti, caused their Baggage to be brought into an old Womans house, whilst they baited them∣selves, and their Horses: But soon after their Hostess fell bitterly a weeping. The strangers surprized at it, began to enquire the reason. Then one of them answering for her, said, That perhaps it was, because the sight of other Country-men put her in mind of the miserable estate of the Magnoti were reduced unto. But she made them this short reply, and told them it was false; her weeping was because her Son was not at home, to rob them of their baggage. Such pleasant Conferences as these made our time seem less tedious, whilst our slow passing of this Gulph made it the Fourth day from Zant to Cerigo.

Cerigo hath the Morea North of it,* 1.30 and was called anciently Ci∣thaera; famous for being the Native Country of Venus and Helena: So that were we to frame an Idea of this place from the fame of these Beauties, we might imagine it one of the most charming places of the World. But, on the contrary, the greatest part of it is a barren, rocky, and Mountainous Soil, ill peopled, and can brag of no plenty, neither of Corn, Wine, nor Oyl: which undoubtedly made Venus change her own Country for Cyprus; and Helena so willing to be stollen and carried into the pleasant Plains of the Continent. What

Beauties it now produceth, I am ignorant of; for I remember not that I saw a Woman there. Its plenty consists in Mutton and Fowls, as Turtles (Venus beloved Birds) Quails and Partridges. Abundance of Hares and Falcons breed here; but the people, for what I could under∣stand, addict not themselves to Hawking.

The chief Town and Fort lieth on the South-side of the Island, strong only towards the Sea; on which it looketh from a Precipice. Under it is a Harbour, but open to the Southerly VVinds. Upon our entry in∣to the Port, whether by neglect, or unskilfulness of our Captain, we ran foul of another Ship of our company; and if we did not endanger, did at least considerable damage to both. It hath, about three or four miles South, a little Rock, called the Ovo, or Egg; the top of which they say is covered with Scorzonera, and is inhabited only by Falcons, that breed there. From the Fort also is to be seen Cerigotto, another little Island, inhabited only by VVild Goats. It belonged to Colo∣nel Macarioti, who served in Candia, before it was taken. He is re∣ported to have behaved himself at that Siege very gallantly. He made us taste of very good VVine of Cerigo, where he now liveth. From Cerigo, in clear and fair weather, Candia may be seen beyond Ceri∣gotto.

This Island is still under the Dominion of the Venetians, who send a Proveditor thither.

Our Vessel parted hence before the rest, to take in fresh water at Port Saint Nicolo, which lieth on the East-side of this Island; and is undoubtedly that, for which Strabo saith, The Island hath a good Har∣bour; there being, beside the Harbour for great Vessels, a natural Creek in the Rocks, large enough for Forty Gallies; which may easily be tied together, and secured from without with a Chain. Near the Shore here digging, you have very good VVater: which is indeed from a little Rivolet, that in the heat of Summer seems perfectly dry in the Channel; but still preserves it self some three foot under the ground. VVe found ancient Ruins near this place; which we took to be the Ruins of Menelaus his City, in old time King of this Isle. They are almost level with the ground. Among these Ruins are some Grotto's cut out of the Rock; which one of the Island pretending to be an An∣tiquary, assured us were anciently the Baths of Helena; affirming, that her Palace was not above three or four miles from thence on the Hills. VVe took this Antiquary for our guide, and went to see what we could find of it. But all we discover'd, were two Pillars standing upright, but without Chapitars; and the Bases so deep in the ground, that we could not judge of what order they were. They were neither Chanell'd, nor altogether plain; but their Fusts cut into Angles, about the breadth of an usual Channel; and that not the whole length of their Fusts, but some proportionable part only. I rather believe it to have been some ancient Temple, than a Palace. They now call the place Paleo-Castro, or Old Castle. The situation of it is such, that it looketh over the best part of the Island, having a good fruitful Valley on the VVest, and another, not barren, on the East, toward the Sea∣side. I went up a little higher a simpling; but discerning the rest of our Fleet under Sail, and our Ship ready to put out, it not only spoiled that

sport, but made me like to break my neek, in hastening down to give my companion notice of it; and for all the speed and diligence we could use, we were like to have been left behind. But this haste shall not make me forget to tell, what curious Plants I found upon this Island, now I am more at leisure.

I heard Dictamnus Creticus groweth here; but I found none but Dictamnus falsus, they call de Cerigo, in great abundance; which differeth from that we call so here, though not unlike it. The chief difference is in its Flowers, which are of a purple and white colour, coming out of a wide cup, as broad as a Silver two-pence. The leaves are also broader and rounder, and of a very thick hoary substance. I brought seed of it; and it grows in the Gardens of Oxford and Paris. I found two more, which I took to be Dictamnus Creticus; but after found my error. The first hath a large, thick and woolly Oval-leaf, set by pairs on a woolly stalk, of a handful high; which ends in a spike of small purple flowers, like a kind of Galiopsis, and grows in round bunches together upon the sides of the Rock. The other I believe to be Chamaedrys Alpina, minima, hirsuta, described the 4th in Prodromo Bauhini.

2. A second kind of Thymus Capitatus, differing in the leaves; which are smaller, and grow in little Tufts together.

3. Here is great plenty of Tragoriganum; which is a most Odorife∣rous Plant, something like Winter-Savoury.

4. Salvia Pomifera, sive Gallifera, Sage bearing Apples, or Galls. The leaves are ash-colour'd, and smell very strong.

5. Stoechas Citrina, with yellow Flowers, which hold their colour for many years, and are pretty in pots in the Winter.

August the Fifth we parted from Cerigo; and doubling the Cape Saint Angelo, we passed within sight of Malvasia, a strong Castle, built upon a Rock on the shore of Morea, or Peloponesus. Then having passed Bella-pola on the right, or, as some call it, Isola Brugiata, (because blown up, and burnt not many years since by subterraneous fires) and Carabia on the left: (〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is a much as to say the Ship-Island.) We left on our right hand Antemilo, and further off Milo, which is reported to have one of the best Ports in the World, and now a refuge for the Corsairs. Afterwards the Wind being North∣ward, we weather'd the Isle Falconeira; which Petro della Valle thinks to be called so from the abundance of Falcons breeding there. But they are not said to be more numerous in that place, than in the rest of the Isles of the Archipelago. We passed in sight of Argentera, called by the Greeks 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. They say, it hath a Mine of Silver, and some Inha∣bitants. The name, which the Greeks still retain, sheweth it to be the same, that ••tolomy and Strabo call 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; wherein our Modern Geo∣graphers have been mistaken, calling sometimes Polino, and some∣times Sicandro, by that name. Afterwards we passed by Siphanto; which hath ten Villages, celebrated for excellent Fruits, and beautiful Women. It hath also a great Monastery; where the greatest part of the Greek Nuns go to initiate themselves. A great way Eastward we discerned Paros, Renowned for its excellent White Marble; which after was so improved by the excellent Workmanship of Phidias and

Praxitiles; that of a Rock it became the objects of their Divine Wor∣ship, and honoured with the names of their false Gods. It was an∣ciently dedicated to Bacchus, because of its plenty of excellent Wines; which there is not worth above a Shilling the Barrel. With this Island Monsieur Nantuille, then Embassador for the King of France, was extremely pleased, and gave us, when we waited on him, a very good account, and an excellent Description thereof. But that which I retain best in memory, is the account he gave of the Grotto's under the Marble-Mountains there: especially of one, which openeth on the West-side of the Rocks, and whose entrance seemeth to have been by art hewen out of the Marble. It is three square within, and hath about the Walls some Inscriptions; but so defaced, that nothing can be made of them. Streight forwards, within this, is another little entrance, leading downwards; spacious within, but dark; which by Candle and Torch-light, presented to their view one of the most plea∣sant Scenes he ever beheld in all his Travels: and the more surprizing, in that it was the sole contrivance, and workmanship of nature; viz. the Figures of all sorts of Woods, Groves, Trees, Pillars, and a thou∣sand Poetical phansies, formed by the falling drops of water congealed into Marble, of a sudden presenting themselves to his sight, as if en∣chanted into this order by the harmonious sound they make in falling.

Some few paces within this Grotto is a place, fashioned like an Al∣tar, with several lovely Scenes behind it, rising by degrees higher and higher, till they lead the prospect insensibly out of sight. Here he caused High Mass to be celebrated according to the Rites of the Roman Church, with Musick, and the sound of Petarrs instead of Cannon: which made so horrible a noise, in that hollow place, as seemed far to out-do the loudest Thunder, both for the report, and continuance, having so little Vent to diffuse it self. The Consecration of this place he caused to be Engraven on the Rock in Latin Verse.

The Air is here so good, that a Noble Venetian, called Antonio Gigli, who retired thither above Thirty years ago, died there not long since, Aged a Hundred and fifteen years: and there is yet ano∣ther of the Family Baroci as aged, as several persons worthy of cre∣dit, who have lived in the Island, assured my companion.

The Embassador brought thence several ancient Inscriptions, and placed them in the Wall of his Gardens at Constantinople: of which more hereafter. About a Musquet-shot from the Island is a Rock; on which remaineth a most beautiful Arch of Marble; which is esteemed to have been the Temple of Bacchus.

August the seventh we had Seriphos, or, as the Greeks now call it short, Serfo, and our Maps Serphanto, on the right. It hath a Town and an Harbour on the South-side, with a Covent of Greek Monks, (which we discerned after we doubled the Cape) dedicated to Saint Michael, the Archangel; to whom they attribute many Miracles done there. Here are Mines of Load-stones; which nevertheless make not the Needle vary, although the Vessels come very near it. Our Pilot told us, he had tried them, but found them not so good, as from other Mines.

In the Evening, the Wind changing Westwards, we passed between

Thermia and Zea; the first of which our Maps call Firmia,* 1.31 and Fir∣minia; but the Greeks Thermia, from the abundance of Baths, and Hot-springs, which issue thence in a great abundance: Thermia in Greek signifying as much. It is much frequented by the Paralytick, Lame, and many other diseased people, being very Diaphoretick. Their Source is near the Port, called Therma. It hath but two Villages, as our Pilot, who is native of the place, informed us.

We plied still Northwards, and passed between Macronisa and Suda.

Monday morning, the Ninth, we approached near Tine,* 1.32 and dropped Anchor about noon in a Bay on the South-side thereof; there being no Port on that side of the Island. Tine was anciently called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as by some Medals we found there it appeared; which on one side bear the Head of Jupiter Hammon, and on the other a bunch of Grapes,* 1.33 de∣noting its plenty of Wine, with these Letters T H. Another I saw at Paris amongst the King of France's Collections, which had on the one side the Head of the Emperor Alexander Severus, and on the other a Trident, wreathed about with a Serpent, with these Letters about it, ΤΗΝΙΩΝ, because here was a noble Temple dedicated to Neptune; where, as Strabo relateth, the adjacent Islands used to perform the Ceremonies of their Religious Superstition.

The whole Island lieth high, being a large heap of Marble Rocks; but in many places covered with a fertile soil. On the South-shore was its ancient City; where nothing now remains, but two or three houses, called still 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or the City. Here are some ancient Remains, and an Inscription, which sheweth it, to have belonged to the Monument of Flavius Evergetes, erected by his Wife. Hence we ascended near four miles to a pointed Rock, in the middle of the Island; whereon now is its chief City and Castle. As we passed, we took notice of its plenty of Vineyards, Figs and Olives. They say they have Corn, but not to spare; rather wanting the help of other parts, by reason they are so very popu∣lous; this being now the only Island in the Archipelago, that have de∣fended themselves from the Turks; and the last in those parts under the Dominion of the Venetians: with whom the Inhabitants have made this agreement, viz. That whensoever they cannot, or will not protect them any longer, they shall be obliged to deliver the Castle to the Inhabitants; who are to have the freedom to chuse whom they will for their Protector.

There are Twenty-four Villages about the Island, which can in time of necessity retire commodiously to this Castle; it being in the midst of them, and having great advantages of nature to defend it self from any sudden assault: though I believe, scarce able to stand out a conside∣rable Siege, for want of Water and Provision. The Castle is on the highest point of the Rock, surrounded by the Towns, something lower than it; and not only over-looketh the whole Island, but almost all the Archipelago: which afforded our curiosity a most delightful pro∣spect of the same. Hence to the Nor-West we saw Andros, beyond that Euboea, now called Negroponte by the Franks; and more We∣sterly Zea. Beyond that Macronisa, anciently Helena. At a greater distance further we could discern Capo di Colouxi, anciently called Pro∣montorium Sunicum, the most Southern Promontory of all Attica. We

saw to the Southward (besides Thermia, Seriphus, &c.) two Islands they now call Sdilles, or the two Deloses, Rhenea and Delos: to the West Micone.

The Inhabitants of Tine employed themselves in VVorking their own Silk, and that of Andros; but they are no great Artists in that Trade. The women knit great part of it into Stockings, and sell them very cheap. Silk is worth about six or seven shillings the pound. There is plenty of fresh water about the Island, although not in the Town; and it did therefore bear the name sometime of Hydrissa. The Plants I took notice of more particularly here, were these: 1. Limonium, or, as Gerard calleth it Limonion,* 1.34 folio sinuato, or Sea-lavender with in∣dented leaves; where I believe either his Printer, or he is mistaken, in the naming it folio sinuato, for caule sinuato. 2. Another Thorny shrub, which I know not under what species to rank, unless Jacea. It rifeth from the ground in a thick, round bush, its branches hard and woody, dividing it self still into an infinite number of other small branches, which terminate in Thorns; amongst which are many jagged leaves of an Ash colour, and with small scaly heads, filled, when blown, with a stringy, white flower, in all respects like Jacea; but much less. It was now in seed; but I saw it after in flower at Athens, in the Spring of the year. 3. A kind of small Stachys, with silver leaves; and 4. a kind of Genista Spinosa, with red flowers; which I find not any where described, or mentioned.

Our Ships being to stay here some days, to discharge themselves of the Goods of the new General of this place, who (if I remember rightly) beareth the Title of General of the Archipelago, though my com∣panion calleth him only Proveditore; and also to take in the baggage of his Predecessor, who was to return to Corfu with half of our Fleet, we resolved not to let so good an opportunity slip, without seeing the anciently so renowned Island of Delos, which we had in view, not above eight, or ten miles from Tine. We hired a Bark with four Oars, and had the company of two other Gentlemen, whose curiosity was the same with ours. The one was Monsieur Angrand, Nephew to the French Embassador at Constantinople. The other Monsieur Salli, a Flemmish Gentleman; and for our Guide one Signior Nicolo Crescentio of Tine, D. D. who had studied at Rome, and understood the History of this Country well, and had often been at Delos, when the antiqui∣ties thereof were not so much defaced as now they are. This Gentle∣man with great civility offered us his company, to shew us the Island. The Wind being fair, and a brisk gale, we soon passed over to the Isle Rhencia, now called Great Delos; being the nearest, opposite to. Port Saint Nicolo, where our Fleet lay: and thence passing Eastward, we crossed a little Bay, which, they say, is a good Road, large and deep enough for Ships of the greatest burthen. From the further Cape of it we passed a Channel of about half a mile over, (according as Strabo affirmeth it to be) to Delos.

[illustration] map of Delos

Lib: j Fig: XII. DELOS INSVLA N. SDILES

This Island is but small, not exceeding five or six miles about,* 1.35 twice as long as broad, lieth low, but rocky, and consequently barren. It hath the Island Rhenia Westward; the Southern parts of Micone East, and the Channel between Micone and Tine to the North. It is utterly disinhabited now, and called Little Delos, or Zdeli in the plural number, comprehending the Isle Rheneia: which is a corruption of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which, being not observed by Strangers, hath been the occasion of mistakes in many Modern names of places in these Countries, reported by our late Travellers, Geographers, and Mariners. Now the great reason, why it was so celebrated among the Ancients was, be∣cause it was the reputed Birth-place of Apollo, as Pindar, Homer, and Callimachus tell us. In devotion to whom the circumjacent Islands, (therefore called the Cyclades) to make it the more famous, sent thither by publick order Priests, Sacrifices, and Quires of Virgins, instituting there great and publick Solemnities in the praise and honour of him. The number of these Superstitious Cyclades, at first were but twelve; but afterwards encreasing, comprehended the greatest part of the Islands of the Aegean-Sea, now called the Archipelago. That Super∣stition rested not there, but diffused it self through Greece, and the most Northern Countries beyond, (as from Strabo and Pausanias in his Attica is apparent) who sent presents thither; which by the Atheni∣ans, who claimed it as their right, were conveyed from the Conti∣nent to this place.

But the Destruction of Corinth by the Romans was the last great cause of its Riches and Wealth. For because of the convenience of its situation, the goodness of its Ports, but especially its freedom from all Impositions, Merchants flocked thither from all parts.

Corinth being afterward restored, the Athenians gained the Island, and were diligent Improvers of its Traffick and Mysteries. A Monument of which I saw at Constantinople, written upon a Marble brought from thence, by the Marquess of Nantell,

ΕΠΙ ΦΑΙΔΡΙΟΥ ΑΡΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΕΛΑΦΗΒΩΛΙΟΝΟΣ ΟΓΔΟΗ ΕΚΚΛΗΣΙ
Α ΕΝ ΤΩΧΕΡΩ ΤΟΥ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΟΣ ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΣ
ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΥ
ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΗΣ ΕΙΠΕΝ
ΕΠΕΙΔΗ ΠΑΤΡΩΝ ΔΟΡΟ ΘΕΟΥ ΤΩΝ ΕΚ ΤΗΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΥ ΕΠΕΛΘΩΝ
ΕΠΙ ΤΗΝ ΕΚΚΛΗΣΙΑΝ ΚΑΙ — ΗΝΙΟΥ ΤΗΝ ΥΠΑΡΧΟΥ
ΣΑΝ ΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΥΝΟΙΑΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΠΟΛΛΑΣ ΧΡΕΑΣ
ΠΑΡΑΙΣΧΗΤΑΙ ΑΠΑΡΑΝΑΚΤΩΣ ΔΙΑΥΤΗΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΑΠΑΝΤΟΣ ΕΩ
ΝΕΙΤΑ ΤΗΙ ΣΥΝΟΔΩ ΕΤΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΑΤΤΩΝ ΤΑ ΣΥΝΦΕΡΟΝΤΑ
ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΙΑΝ ΕΥΜΟΥΣΗΤΑ ΤΩΝ ΕΑΥΤΩΝ ΤΩΝ ΕΛΕΥΣΟΜΕΝ—
ΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΝΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΝ ΣΥΝΑΞΑΜΕΝΩΝ ΕΠΙΤ ΥΠΕΥΞΗΜΕ
ΝΗΣ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΛΑΙΑΣ ΕΥΝΟΙΑΣ ΠΑΡΑΚΑΛΕΣΑΝΤΑ
ΚΟΙΝΟΝ ΕΞΑΠΟΣΤΕΙΛΑΙ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΙΑΝ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΝ ΔΗΜΟΝ ΤΩΝ ΑΘΗ
ΝΑΙΩΝ ΟΠΟΣ ΔΟΘΗ ΚΑΤΑ ΕΚΕΥΑΣ ΟΥΣΙΝ ΤΕ—
ΜΕΝΟΣ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΤΟΥ ΤΙ—ΠΑΡΑΙΤΙΟΥ ΓΕ
ΓΟΝΟΤΟΣ ΤΟΙΣ ΑΝΘΡΟΠΟΙΣ ΑΡΧΗΣ ΟΣΤΙΣ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ ΥΠΑΡ
ΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΑΙΡΕΘΕΙΣ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΗΝ ΒΟΥΛΗΝ ΚΑΙ
ΤΟΝ ΔΗΜΟΝ ΤΩΝ ΑΘΗΝΑΙΩΝ — ΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ Ε
ΠΛΕΥΣΕΝ ΔΑΠΑΝΩΝ ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΠΑΝΙΣΑΣ ΤΕ ΤΗΝ
ΤΗΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΥ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΝ ΔΗΜΟΝ ΕΥΝΟΙΑΝ ΠΑΡΕΚΑΛΕΣΕΝ
ΑΥΤΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΑ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΤΗΝ ΑΙΤΙΑΝ — ΒΤΕΛΕΣΑΤΟ
ΤΗΝ ΤΩΝ ΘΙΑΣΙΤΩΝ ΒΟΥΛΗΣΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΤΩΝ ΘΕΩΝ ΤΙΜΗΝ
ΚΑΘΑΠΕΡ ΗΡΜΟΤΤΕΝ ΑΥΓΩΙ ΥΠΕΡ ΔΙΚΑΙΟΥ ΑΠΗΚΩΣ ΔΕ
ΚΑΙ ΠΛΕΙΟΝΑΣ ΕΝ ΤΟΙΣ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΟΥΤΩΝ ΚΑΙΡΟΙΣ ΕΙΡΗΚΕΝ
ΔΕ ΚΑΙ ΥΠΕΡ ΤΗΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΥ ΕΝ ΤΩ ΑΝΑΓΚΑΙΟΤΑ ΤΩ
ΚΑΙΡΩ ΤΑ ΔΙΚΑΙΑ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΣΗΣ ΠΡΟΘΥΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΦΙΛΟΤΙ
ΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΔΕΖΑΤΟ ΤΕ ΤΟΝ ΘΙΑΣΟΝ ΕΦΙΜΕΡΑΣ ΔΥΟ ΥΠΕΡ
ΤΟΥ ΤΟ—ΝΙ—ΝΑΟΥΝ ΚΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΔΟΙΠΟΝ ΧΡΟΝΟΝ ΑΠΑΡΑ
ΚΛΗΤΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΟΝ ΠΑΡΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΤΟ ΚΑΙ Η ΣΥΝΟΔΟΣ ΦΑΙ
ΝΗΤΑΙ ΦΡΟΝΤΙΣΟΤ ΣΑ ΔΙΑΝΕΥΜΕΝΩΝ ΑΝΔΡΩΝ ΕΙΣ. ΕΑΥ
ΤΗΝ ΕΥΝΟΙΚΩΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΞΙΑΣ ΧΑΡΙΤ'ΑΣ ΑΠΟΔΙΔΟΥΣΑ ΤΟΙΣ
ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΤΕΡΟΙΣ ΘΥΤΩΝ ΕΚ ΤΗΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΥ
ΔΙΑ ΤΗΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΙΑΝ Ε—Ω ΩΤΑΙ—
ΝΩΝΤΑΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΑΜΙΜΟΝΤΑΙ ΦΙΛΟΤΙΜΟΥ ΜΕΝΟΙΣ
ΠΕΡΙΠΟΙΕΙΝ ΤΙ ΤΗ ΣΥΝΟΔΩ ΚΑΙ ΑΓΑΘΕΙ ΤΥΚΕΙ
ΔΕΔΟΧΘΑΙ ΤΩ ΚΟΙΝΩ ΤΩΝ ΤΥΡΙΩΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΣ ΤΩΝ
ΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΝΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΝ ΕΠΑΙΝΗΣΑΙ ΠΑΤΡΩΝΑ ΔΩ
ΡΟΘΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΕΦΑΝΩΣΙ ΑΥΤΟΝ ΚΑΤΑ ΕΝ ΕΑΥΙΟΝ ΧΡΥ

ΣΩ ΣΤΕΦΑΝΩ ΕΝ ΤΑΙΣ ΣΥΝΤΕΛΕΣΜΕΝΑΙΣ ΘΥΣΙΑΙΣ
ΤΩΙ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΟΝΙ ΑΡΕΤΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΛΟΚΑΓΑΘΙ
ΑΣ ΗΣ ΙΚΩΝ ΔΙΑΤΕΛΩΝ ΕΙΣ ΓΟ ΚΟΙΝΟΝ ΤΩΝ ΤΥΡΙ
ΩΝ ΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΝΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΝ ΑΝΑΘΕΙΝΑΙ ΔΕ ΑΥ
ΤΟΥ ΕΙΚΟΝΑ ΓΡΑΠΤΗΝ ΕΝ ΤΩ ΤΕΜΕΝΕ — ΤΟΥ
ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΚΑΤΑ ΛΑΣ — ΧΗΟΥ ΑΝ ΑΥΤΟΣ ΒΟΥΛΗΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ
ΤΟ ΔΕ ΑΣΥ — ΟΣ ΑΛΕΙΤΟΥΡΓΗΤΟΣ ΕΝ ΤΑΙΣ
ΓΙΝΟΜΕΝΑΙΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΙΣ ΠΑΣΑΙΣ ΕΠΙΜΕΛΕΙΑ ΕΣΤΩ
ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΘΙΣΤΑΜΕΝΟΙΣ ΑΓΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΑΜΙΑΙΣ
ΚΑΤΩ ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΙ ΠΩΣ ΕΝ ΤΑΙΣ ΓΙΝΟΜΕΝΑΙΣ ΘΥ
ΣΙΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΣΥΝΟΔΟΙΣ ΑΝΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΙ ΤΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ
ΤΗΝ ΑΝΑΓΟΡΕΥΣΙΝ Η ΣΥΝΟΔΟΣ ΤΩΝ ΤΥΡΙΩΝ ΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ
ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΝ ΑΝΑΓΡΑΨΑΤΩΣΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΟ ΨΗ
ΦΙΣΜΑ ΕΙΣ ΣΤΗΛΗΝ ΑΙΘΙΝΗΝ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΗΣΑΤΩΣΑΝ ΕΝ
ΤΩ ΤΕΜΕΝΕΙ ΤΟΥ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΕΣΟΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΝΗΛΩΜΑ
ΕΙΣ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΜΕΡΙΣΑΤΩ Ο ΤΛΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΗΣ
ΕΠΙ ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΟΥ
ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΥ
ΙΕΡΑΤΕΥΟΝΤΟΣ ΔΕΤΟΥ
ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΥ
Within a Wreath of
Olive Branches.
O
ΔΗΜΟΣ
ΑΘΗΝΑΙ
ΩΝ
Within a Wreath of
Olive Branches.
Η ΣΥΝΟΛΟΣ
ΤΩΝ. ΤΥΡΙΩΝ
ΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ ΚΑΙ
ΝΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΝ

It is a Panegyrick in praise of one Patron, Son of Dorotheus, who had done several good Offices for the Company of the Tyrian Mer∣chants and Mariners, spoken by the Chief Priest in the Temple of Apollo, at a Meeting there, the Eighth of the Month Elaphebolion, the Year when Phaedrias was Archon of Athens, decreed and sub∣scribed by the Commons of Athens, and the Company of the Tyrian Merchants and Seamen. But this its Greatness and Glory being long since obscured, it now remains, that I give you an account of its pre∣sent miserable condition.

The first thing that we met with, at our arrival to a little Bay, on the West-side near the North-end, was a square Foundation, with eleven Granate Pillars yet standing about and within it, which they of the Island call the Schools, from a Tradition, that there were Schools anciently in that place. Not above a stones cast from thence,

more Southward, in a large oval Foundation, we found the Pedestal of a Statue dedicated to Mithridates Evergetes, in the time that Seleucus (of Marathon) was Gymnasiarch, or chief Governour of the Schools.

ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΣ ΜΙΘΡΑΔΑΤΟΥ
ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΟΥ ΣΕΛΕΥΚΟΣ
ΜΑΡΑΘΩΝΙΟΣ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΑΡΧΩΝ

Which would have served to have confirmed the vulgar Tradition of the first Ruin, had we not found another to the same effect, though differing in name, a great way from it; wherefore they serve only to prove, that there was a Gymnasium in Delos. But this oval Foun∣dation we judged to have been a Naumachia, or place to exercise Naval Recreations in; and the rather, that our Doctor Crescentio told us, that he remembred to have seen a Hole in the middle of it, which probably might have been to let in the Sea-water, seeing it lieth low enough, and not far distant from the Sea. It is about three hundred paces in length, and two hundred in breadth; and the Wall about four or five foot from the bottom, but even with the Ground above. Some Pillars yet remain standing on the brink of it, which made us conclude, that there had been a Portique about it, either for Use, or Ornament, or for both. This seemeth to be that which the Poet Calli∣machus calleth 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or the Round Lake; for his Scholiast, in the Explication of the Place, saying, that it may be understood of the Sea, because it encompasseth the Island, addeth, that perhaps there was a round Lake therein.

Proceeding yet more Eastward, we came to a vast heap of admi∣rable white Marble, which we knew to have been the Temple of Apollo, by the Trunk of his Statue we found among them. This goodly structure is so entirely ruin'd, that it is impossible to judge of its form, and the God himself so ill handled, that he hath neither hands, feet, nor head left him; yet what is remaining appeareth still most beautiful; his locks hanging round his shoulders are yet to be seen, having marks in each curl (as we judged) where Jewels had been set, with a sign about his waste of a Girdle, which had in like manner been richly adorned, and on his left shoulder a light Mantle. The Statue was above four or five times bigger than Nature, and no less than a Colossus; for the shoulders are six foot broad, and the remain∣ing parts of the body proportionable. The beauty of it is such, that I am apt to believe, if Michael Angelo had seen it, he would have admired it as much as he did that Trunk in the Vatican at Rome. It stood upon his Pedestal upright, until about three years ago (as Signior Georgio, our Landlord at Micone, informed me) an English-man who was there, call'd, as he said, Signior Simon, Captain of the Saint Barbara, endeavoured to carry it away, but finding it impossi∣ble, he brake off its head, arms, and feet, and carried them with him. But here I must observe, that my Note differs from Monsieur Spon's, Tom. 1. p. 180. who saith it was a Venetian. A little further, among these Ruins, we found the half body of a Woman, the

Drapery about which was carved so well, that it seemed to be the work of no less a Master than the former. Just by this, was the body and forepart of a Centaure, so admirably well cut also, that life and vigour appear'd in every Vein and Muscle: Upon his back appear'd a place cut, as we suppose, to set a sedent Figure in; whence we judged, that it might have been the Centaure Nessus, who would have committed a Rape on Deianira; which was no improper Orna∣ment to this Temple, Centaurs being consecrated to Apollo, as is to be seen in many Medals; especially of Gallienus, one of which I found at Smyrna of a mixed Metal, whose reverse hath a Centaure holding a Globe in its right hand, pierced behind with a Dart, and these Letters about it, APOLLINI CONS. AUG. Not far from these, we found other Fragments; one piece was the head and neck of an Horse; ano∣ther, which seemed to belong to the same part of the Bodie of a Horse, with a Fragment of a sedent Figure of a Woman, from the feet almost to the wast upon it, the hinder part of the Figure ending like a Fish with scales. I cannot well determin, whether the upper part of the Woman I before mentioned belongeth to the Centaure, or this. These all seem to have been the Ornaments of the walls of the Temple, and of the same manner of work in entire Relievo.

Here are seen also four other pieces; which we guessed to have been of the Lyons, that the Neighbouring Islanders remember to have seen formerly here. On the South corner, at the West end of these ruins (where perhaps was the entrance of the Temple) is a great piece of Marble hollow in the middle, and almost buried in the ground; which perhaps was part of the pedestal of the Gigantique Statue of Apollo, because on the one side are these Letters ΝΑΞΙΟΙ ΑΠΟΛΛ, which denote, that it had been dedicated by those of the Island Naxos to Apollo. The Letters on the other side we could not well tell what to make of; but-upon consideration they seem to me to be Vulgar Greek.

From the Temple of Apollo directing our steps Southward, and near the Western shore of the Island, we came to the Ruins of a wonderful Portico of Marble; whose vast Architraves, Pillars, and other the beauti∣ful parts Bury each other in as great confusion as time and bad Fortune could reduce them to. Upon one of the Architraves broken in two pieces, we sound these Letters of a span deep ΒΑΖΙΛΕΩΣ ΦΙΛΛΙΠΠ. Signior Crescentio remembers, he saw on a Fragment of the same Architrave ΜΑΚΕΔ, which sheweth, that Philip of Macedon was its Founder. Further upon a little eminence among other Marbles we found these Letters also, upon an Architrave: ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΥ ΕΥΤΥΧΟΥ, Dionysius the Son of Eutyches, another Grecian King. The Pillars were Angu∣lar towards the Base, and channel'd upwards, being of several pieces, and of the Corinthian order, as appeared by their chapetes; of which we found only three or four.

Not far from the South end of this Portique, and on the West side of a little rocky Mountain, which undoubtedly was the Mount Cynthus, is a Theater. It is something more than a Semicircle, whose Diameter comprehending the seats, and utmost wall is about two hundred Foot; on each side without its Circumference, are the Foundations of a Tower

Thirty Foot long, and Eighteen broad: Before the Scene are eight, or nine Vaults in a row, answering Parallel to the Diameter of the Theater; separated from each other by a wall, in which is a little Arch, serving for a passage from one to another. These some of us took for Cisterns to hold water; and others for Caves, to keep wild Beasts in, used to be baited in the Theaters of the Ancients, somewhat resembling our Bear-gardens: The whole Fabrick is of white Marble, and each Stone on the outside cut in the form of a Diamond. In the place of the Spectators there are some seats still remaining: The whole Theater leaneth on a hill, part of which seemeth to be dug away to make room for it.

[illustration] map of Mount Synthus

Lab.j Fig: XIII Mount Synthus & y^e Caste of Delos

From the Theater Eastwards, passing over a world of Ruins, we began to ascend the high Rock, called anciently Mount Cynthus: Which can be called high only in respect of the other hills in this Island, and not in respect of the circumjacent Isles, which are beyond proportion higher. It is very craggy and steep, and consists of a Granate Marble, of several colours; some reddish mixed with black, others lighter; other some yellowish, with black spots, and some a light grey. It is very hard, but I doubt endureth not the weather so well, as that of Egypt. For the Pillars at the Schools I but now mentioned, seem to be of the same stone, and are very much scaled by the weather: This makes me doubt, whether all the Pillars, that are seen in so many places, be of the Granate of Egypt. For although Monsieur Spon took no notice, where any stone hath been dug out of it; yet I believe the way up the Mountain, (which is deep, broad, and winding) was the quarry, where much of that Marble had been taken; for it resembles many quarries I saw afterwards in the Mountain Pentelicus in Attica: Besides, they would not have bestowed the pains to have dug so deep only for a way, nor is it apparent that it

was the way: For on the Right hand, as we ascended up a little distance from it, is a Port, or Gate, made of such vast stones, as I believe were dug not far from the place, which was the entrance to go up to the Castle on the top of the hill; where yet remain Founda∣tions of White Marble. Another quarry of such stone is on the Alpes, near Lago-Maiore; with Pillars of which the Frontispieces of most of the Churches in Millain are Beautified: And I believe those of Spalato may come from some quarrie in the Mountains of Croatia, as I before hinted. This side of the hill hath ascents one above another, distinguished by Walls on each side of the place, supposed to have been the way up: Which have been wonderfully Beautified with Porticoes, or Cloysters, and other Buildings; as the abundance of Pillars, Pedestals, Architraves, and other Fragments of excellent Marble, ranging streight and Parallel to each other, do sufficiently testifie: There are few Chapitels of Pillars to be seen here, or any where in the Island; because their Beauty made them esteemed worth carrying away.

ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ
ΤΟΥΤΩΙ
ΥΠΕΡΕ
ΤΩΝΙΔΙΩΝ ΣΑΡΑΠΙΔΙ
ΙΣΙΔΙΑΝΟΥΒΙΔΙ ΑΡΠΟ
ΧΡΑΤΕΙ ΔΙΟΣΚΟΥΡΟΙΣ
ΕΠΙ ΙΕΡΕΩΣ
ΣΤΑΣΕΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟ
ΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΚΟΛΩΝΗΘΕΝ

Among these ruins we found an Altar dedicated to Serapis, Isis, Anubis, Harpocrates and the Dioscouri; who perhaps had a Temple there, though not mention'd by Ancient Authors; or at least an Altar in some other Temple. For here was one dedicated to Latona, the Mother of Apollo; which Strabo calleth 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and another of Hercules, as appeareth by the Inscription of Patron, under the Archontship of Phaedrus, which I but now cited. The chief City of this Island reacheth from Mount Cynthus Northwards, to the streight between the Island Rheneia, and the place where we here first put ashore, and saw the Gymnasium: For the ruins are continued so far in length, and from the Sea Westwards near half the breadth of the Island: From the top of this Mountain I took the prospect of it; with its other hills and ruins, as I have here designed it.

In the evening we return'd to our Boat, purposing to get to our Vessel that Night; but we found the Sea so rough, that it was im∣possible to be done; and therefore the Boat being drawn ashore with Stoechas Citrina, and our Quilts that we brought for fear of such an accident, we took our Lodging up that Night, in hopes of a calm in the Morning: But the next day the wind was as high as before; yet we resolved to trie to get out, and keeping under the Lee shore, to cross over to Micone. Nevertheless, so soon as we were got out of the little harbour, the Sea running so high, that it had almost dash'd our Boat against a rock, we were forced to put into the next Bay Northward

of the former, and there draw our Boat ashore, and expect in God's good time a fairer opportunity. We had not only bad weather by Sea, but also a distress ashore to struggle with; being in a barren and desert Island, almost destitute of all sorts of Provisions, Victuals, Wine and Water: In this perplexity we went to the top of a steep rock, which makes the Northern Cape of the Island, there to cherish our hopes with the sight of our Fleet; from which we expected our relief. But to our amazement, and the increase of our sorrows, we perceived them to be under Sail, and our selves like to be left behind: Yet were our troubles somewhat alleviated, when we saw, that our Ships (the current running strong between Tine and Micone, and the wind contrary) could not pass that way, but were forced to bear over, and come to Anchor at Micone. Our provisions at this time were reduced to one Penny Loaf, and two or three Morsels of Bisquit, our water was spilt, and not an English pint of Wine left: nor knew we of any Water in the Island; we had searched before, but in vain, for the River Inopus, which Strabo mentions to have been in this Island; but now to be found no where, and perhaps it was only a torrent after some great Rain; or some little brook, that the heaps of ruins now keep hid; or else it riseth in some part so near the Sea-shore, that it scaped our most diligent search; unless it be in one place, which I shall hereafter mention. In a word we had no spade nor any other Instrument to dig, and find fresh water with: Thus pensive, and melancholy we separated, and went several ways to entertain our selves with solitary Contemplations. I fetched a walk towards a hill, on the North-east Corner of the Island; which we had not before searcht: It is near as high as Mount Cynthus; on the top whereof are the Foundations of the Wall of a square Town, or Castle, Fossed without, but not very deep: From whence below in the Valley, Eastward, I discovered many Ruins, Foundations, and Pillars, which we had not yet seen: As I descended, going along by the side of the hill, that I might see all with more ease, I found two Cisterns, but without water: The one was newly dried, as by the mud at the bottom appeared; from it goeth a ditch to the Ruins; beyond which, by the Sea-side, on a rising ground is a Foundation, with some Pillars standing, and others down; perhaps it hath been a Portico to some other great Building. This is the most pleasant, and fruitful part of the Island: Two stones-cast from this, Westward and South of the Isle, are the Foundations of two Temples; in one of which I found a Pedestal of a Statue dedicated to Mithridates Eupator, Son of Mithridates Evergetes, erected by Dionysius Nesanus, an Athenian, who was that time Gymnasiarch. The first was that famous King of Pontus, who made War with the Romans for so long a time,* 1.36 and was at last defeated by Pompey. Mithridates Evergetes, the Father, was a Friend and Allie of the Romans. This place I believe to have been the New Athens at Delos; of which the Inscription in Saint Marks Library at Venice makes often mention, and is Printed in Gruterus, Page CCCCV. the Community whereof, I think likewise subscribed to the Inscription of that stone, which was erected to the honour of Patron. This Town was Built at the charge of the Emperour

Adrian, by the Athenians, and called New Athens; which in all probability was the place Stephanus Byzaut saith, was before called Olympoeum in Delos. One of the Temples there might be that of Hercules, mentioned in the Inscription of Patron, and set in that Temple; and the other that of Neptune. In the celebration of those Sacrifices Patron's was to be yearly Crowned with a Golden Crown; and whither it is not improbable, but that a chanel might have come from the Cisterns to supply water for the publick service, and other uses in his Temple. I know not, whether I may properly call that a Cistern I now speak off; for perhaps it may sometimes be a spring making the River, Inopus; which had its overflowings like the Nile: for the place sheweth no art, but meerly a deep bed; where I perceived water had been: But whether saved there by Rain, or by rising out of the Earth, I cannot tell; yet the time of the year seemed to argue against the former, it being in the heat of Summer, when little Rain falls in those parts.

After I had ranged over this corner of the Island with some satis∣faction (though pensive enough, when I thought how miserable we were like to be, if the weather staied us, untill our Ships were gone) I returned to take my share of that little provision we had left; which we divided, with all the Geometry we had, into equal parts; wherewith though we filled not our bellies, yet all seemed satisfied. The Doctor and one of our Watermen were not yet returned; but we saved their parts: But for the next meal we were very sollicitous, not knowing whose turn it might first be, to have his haunches cut out, to serve for Venison to the rest. Some went a hunting with the Flemmish Gentle∣man, which brought his Gun and Dog with him; and found good sport with the Hares, and Rabbets, in which this Island yet abounds, being sometimes called Lagia for that reason. But Monsieur Engrand and I, being weary of our Mornings walks, stayed by the Boat, and tried some Philosophical experiments, how to make fresh water; and first how the Sea-water would do by passing it through sand; with which we filled our Basket, emptied of provisions: for I rememb'red I had read some such experiment; but this proved without effect. After this we fell a digging on the shore, at some distance from the Sea, with our hands, sharp stones, and the ends of our spears 'till we scraped so deep, that at length we found water but it was salt. Our Philosophy failing, after two or three hours, we return'd to the Boat, hot with the toyl, scorched with the Sun, and thirsty with tasting the salt water, and so in despair of relief laid our selves down in all the shade we could make, under the side of the Boat: For here groweth now no Palm-trees, or any other that can make one; committing our selves to the mercy of the great Preserver, as well as Creator of beings. But to lose no time I began to recollect what Plants I had. seen here; Besides the abundance of Stoechas Citrina I before spake of, here groweth Lentiscus, or the Mastick shrub, in great plenty, wild; upon which I observed Tears of Mastick, which made us believe, that if it were cultivated here as well as at Scio, it might bear as well as there.

Doctor Crescentio, (who knew that there was water in the Island, and therefore resolved never to give over looking, untill he had found

some) came within an hour after with this most welcome news, that he had sound a Cistern of water; this made us all though Greeks Romans, English, French, Dutch, and as differing in Religion, as in Country, agree in one to give praise to our great Preserver. Not long after returned our hunters, with a Rabbet and some Birds. So all together we went with the Mariners about a mile from thence, to the top of a little hill, to the North-East of the Island; where the ground riseth a little higher then the Theater, with Ruins round it; and hath on the top of all a little hollow place, wherein is a small hole broken into a large Arched Cistern, only big enough for a man to descend through by a Rope: For the water is not directly under the hole, but in a further corner not easily seen, the Cistern being much filled with rubbish. It proved excellent water. This I have been larger upon than ordinary, lest some whose curiosity should lead them thither, may have the same need of it, as we had. Having filled all the Vessels we had, we returned cheerfully to our Boat, to prepare our Venison for supper; which with a Loaf Monsieur Spon had laid by for a good time, we eat heartily, and with no little satisfaction; not doubting, but he that did this, would, when he saw it con∣venient for us, still the winds, and raging of the Sea also. After this we made a great fire on the hill, of Staechas Citrina, and such other combustible stuff, as we found there, to give notice to our Vessel, that we wanted help. This done, we laid our selves down as the Night before; but with no great mind to rest: Before day we found the wind much abated, and in effect a calm. Sowe took the opportunity, and put out to Sea; and although it ran high, yet the wind being low, by great providence we passed safe the Chanel, about four miles over, to the Port and Town of Micone.

Micone is so called by the Franks, and was by the Ancient Greeks, and is yet by the Modern, called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Micone. The Poets fancied this to be the Burying place of the Centaurs, conquered by Hercules: It is not so far distant from Delos, as Ferrarius in his Dictionary assureth; it being but four miles at the most. Between it and Delos is a Scoglio, called by the Franks Dragonera, by the Greeks Tragonisi, that is, the Island of Goats. Micone hath a good and large harbour towards the West-side of it; is rather bigger than lesser, then Tine, and may have twenty five, or thirty miles in circumference. It is fruitful in Wine and Corn, especially Barley, and is well peopled, and by Christians only; but now under the protection of the Turks. Their Governour is a Christian, sent by the Turks from Constantinople: Monsieur Bandrond is therefore mistaken, who hath augmented the Dictionary of Ferrarius, to put it under the Venetians. I had no information, whether it ever were, or when, taken by the Turks: Perhaps it was slighted in the War of Candia, because not tenable. For they have but one Town, without any Fortifications by nature, or art; which lieth within the harbour. There is about thirty Greek Churches, and only one Latin in the Town. They pay to the Turk a tribute which he sendeth for yearly; but as to the true Sum I know not how to decide the difference between my Companions Memoirs, and my Journal. For he saith it is Three Thousand and

Six Hundred Dollers; but I have noted only that they present the Turk, as often as he sendeth his Gallies, Two Hundred Dollers; besides the mischief they suffer from them in their Figs and Vineyards. Perhaps the first claimed as a duty to the grand Signior; and the last only as a present to the Carathi; who with great greediness extort presents for themselves, where ever they come. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Pyrats, and this place is a great Staple for their prey: Here they keep their Wives, Children, and Mistresses. The greatest part of the Town seems to consist of Women; who deservedly have a greater reputation for Beauty then Chastity; the Men being most of them abroad, seeking their Fortunes. Our Captain had here a Seraglio of them, when he was a Corsaire in these Seas, as I before mentioned. But those being now antidated, he was for new game at his coming hither; and therefore found out a pretty young Virgin for his Mistress, which he bought of her Brutal Father, as provision for his Voyage to Constantinople. The History of the taking her I will not let pass without relating it, because I was by accident at the Rape of this fair Helena. The Admiral of our little Fleet, unexpectedly hoisting Sail, before he had brought her aboard, he sent his long Boat to fetch her away, by some of his trusty Servants: I having left something ashore where I Lodged, begged leave of the Captain to go with the Boat; which I obtained with some difficulty, not imagining the reason of their putting ashore at that time. They went streight to the Captains house, while I went to fetch my things: When I returned back to them, I found them very merry, drinking with some other Women the Captain had formerly kept; and also some Pirats, who had been of the Captains Comrades, esteemed very stout Men. One, I remember, was extreamly civil to me, and offer'd me many Favours, I knew not how to accept of; and withall assured me, that if he had the fortune to meet me at Sea; that he would treat me with all civility imaginable; for which I thanked him, hoping never to have any need of his kindness. Those sent by the Captain went streight to the house of this young one; who with weeping and great seeming unwillingness, suffered her self to be carried to the Boat; whilst her Mother put the rest of the Women in the Town in an uproar; who in multitudes followed her to the water-side. The Mother stood raging on the shore, as if she had not known what her Husband had done; whilst some stood to look, and others (I Judge) to be looked on: For along the shore I believe, above a hundred Girls, from ten or eleven, to fourteen or fifteen years old, stood with their Coats as high as their middle (I guess to signifie they were ready to accompany her, so soon as occasion offered:) Thus she was conveyed aboard, and a Cabin built for her, where the Captain could retire to her himself, and oblige the rest of his Friends. He kept the next day a Feast, inviting his Officers as to his Nuptials; and had her dressed very fine in a Venetian habit. For the Women of Miconie's dress is very odd; although they seem to become them there: I have caused what I designed of it, to be cut as here you may see.

[illustration] depiction of Miconie woman

Lib: I. Fig: XIIII

Their Hair is twisted, and tied up ordinarily in a Hair-lace, with Pendants in their Ears; over which, when they go abroad, they wrap a Yellow, Silken Vail, as thin as Tiphany, with the end flying loose about their shoulders. They wear a Bodies of Red or Green Velvet, laced with Silver or Gold lace in the seams; out of which come their Arms, in a long and large linnen sleeve, sometimes laced, or wrought at the hands, wide at the ends, resembling a Surplice. About the wast is a long plaited skirt of Cloth made of Cotton: The thick plaiting sheweth it to tal•• up sufficient quantity of stuff; under which is another garment of the same stuff plaited; which reacheth down to their knees. To make this, they say, they ordinarily put a hundred yards of Fustian; and upon it they wear an Apron, that reacheth not quite so low; under which appeareth their smock again, reaching as far as the calf of the Leg, embroidered at the edges: And then their Legs and Feet in Cotton stockings almost to the Toes; which are hid with the top of their slippers, covered with Velvet, sometimes laced with Gold lace.

Here I saw no Monuments of Antiquity; only my Landlord, Signior Georgio, sold me a Silver Medal of the Country; which had the head, as I guess, of Jupiter, with a wreath about it on one side, and on the reverse a bunch of Grapes, and by it the end of a Launce, with these Letters MYKO, which assureth it to have been there Stamped. The Grapes signifie their plenty of Wine; as indeed there is now no

want of it, nor of any other provision. Wild Foul is there very cheap; a brace of Partridges cost not ordinarily above a Groat, or Six-pence, although they made us pay Ten-pence, because we were Strangers. If they had plenty of Powder and Shot, perhaps they would be much cheaper. Water and Wood are scarce; one great Cistern being all, that serveth the whole Town.

Friday, the Thirteenth of August we parted from Micone, and passed between it and Tine. On Saturday Morning we saw a far off, on the Right-hand, Nicaria, Anciently called Icaria, famous for the History of Icarus, and Daedalus: The North-wind arising drove us towards Samos; which we saw about Twenty Miles off, East-wards. Towards the evening we were driven almost into the Chanel, between the shore of Asia, and the Isle Scio: So that we were forced to make a great board, to double the Scoglio Venetico, near to which we passed. On Sunday Morning we discovered Scyros, and the little Isle Caloiro; which some (mistaken) take to be Giaros, now called Joura, as before. When one discovereth this Island a far off, one would think it to be the Sails of a Ship. At Night the wind coming about South-east, we passed between the Scoglio Pisara, and the Isle Scio. The wind continuing yet favourable, we left Metelin the Ancient Lesbos on the Right-hand. On Monday a good fresh gale rising with the Sun, carried us by Night in sight of Tenedos: Where two of our Ships, the Jove Fulminante and the Fortunetta, being better Sailers, cast Anchor; whilst we were that Night becalmed. The Seventeenth the North-wind rose again; insomuch that our Ship was forced to make two great boards to get under the covert of Tenedos, towards the Southern end in the Chanel, between it and the Country of Troy. Here we had so little shelter from the wind, that we were forced to cast out two Anchors to resist the stream; and the wind by this time was so high, that it endangered the Mast, and rent one of the Sails before it could be furled.

But before we proceed any further, I will give you an account of some other Islands in the Archipelago, which we passed by, and such other particulars, as we learned from our Sea-men.

But of Samos, Nicharia, and Patmos, I shall say nothing since Joseph Georgirenes, Archbishop of Samos, hath lately given the World an ample account thereof, Translated out of the Vulgar Greek, by a Learned Divine into English; to whom I refer my Reader.

Scio, Anciently Chios, is one of the noblest Islands in the Archipe∣lago:* 1.37 It lieth near the Asian shore between Smyrna and Ephesus, is well Inhabited, and Frultful; having one good City, and about a dozen, or fifteen Villages. They cultivate the Mastick, and Turpentine Trees, and make great advantage of both of them, their Gums being much valued all over Europe. The description of both Trees you may see in Gerard, Page 1432. they both grow in the Southern parts of France, but produce no Gum there, this place is renowned at present for good Wine, and handsom Women, and those very kind. The description you may see at large in Mr. Sands, who was so fortunate as to see it. They make there also some course Damasques; which they send into Barbarie: The Island hath a very good Harbour, and a good Fort;

where the Grand Signior keepeth a Garrison. It hath a bold shore round about it; but as to its Circumference I know not how to give my judgment, having had no information in that particular; and Authors disagreeing: For my Companion setteth it down about Sixty Miles; Peitro della Valle Ninety; and our Country-man, Mr. Sands, precisely Sixscore and five Miles. It looketh very high, and Mountainous from Sea, and sends down most prodigious gusts of wind,* 1.38 as I experienced returning from Smyrna. Of Lesbos likewise he hath given a good description; for it is much bigger then Scio, and hath plenty of Corn, Wine, and Cattle: Of the milk of which they make much Butter and Cheese, but have little Trade. Each of these Islands pay Eighteen Thousand pieces of Eight a year Carraeth to the Grand Signior. Those that gather it at Scio make the heirs, three years after the death of their Friends, pay it. They say also when a Greek changeth his habitation, they make him pay a double Pole-Money; one in the Country he left, and another in that where he cometh to live; unless they avoid it by some Artifice, as by concealing their native place, and true Name. Naxia payeth Six Thousand Dollers, Milo Three Thousand, Paros and Ause as much: Scyros Two Thousand, Zea Seventeen Hundred for Carraeth, and for Tenths Two Thousand Five Hundred: Andros Four Thousand Five Hundred, Carraeth, and Six Thousand Eight Hundred for Tenths. Negropont, which is the greatest Island in the Archipelago, payeth a Hundred Thousand Dollers for all its priviledges. The tenths are paid to the Beyes and Vayvodes; who are obliged out of them to keep a certain number of Gallies, without any expence to the Grand Signior. Smyrna maintains two Gallies, Naxia, Meteline, Samos, and Andros, each of them one: Scio two, Micone, and Seripho one; and so the rest in proportion to their Abilities.

But to return to our Vessel at Tenedos. This Island is about four or five Miles from the shore of Asia, about Twenty Miles in Circuit, and Truitful in Corn and Wine, especially Muskatels; great part of which is carried to Constantinople. It hath a Town and a Castle, which lieth on the North-end of it; but regarding the Promontory, Sigaeum, towards the East, now called Janizzari, by the Turks, it was taken by the Venetians in the War of Candia, and retaken by the Turks by means of a good round Sum of Money, given to the Treacherous Governour. Near this place was a famous Sea-fight, fought betwixt the Venetians and Turks, with great loss on both sides, though the Victory remained to the Venetians.

From our Ship at the South-end of Tenedos, we discovered the top of that famous Mountain Ida,* 1.39 and in the same line, upon the Asian shore, vast Ruins of a City; which we took to be the so much celebrated Troy; and therefore we longed very much to see it, nor had we therein our desires frustrated. For, Friday the Twentieth of August, the wind holding still contrary or calm, both Wood and Water was wanting to our Vessel; and therefore the long Boat being sent ashore for recruits, we closed with that opportunity of seeing the Valiant Trojans Country. We landed in a plain about three Miles North of those Ruins, which we saw from our Ship; where digging

in the sand (I suppose the hidden Chanel of some rivolet) the Sea men found fresh water. This plain is in some places tilled, and in some places neglected: It beareth Corn, Cotton, and Sesami (of which they make Oyl). Cucumbers and Melons of several kinds, as Water-Melons, which the Italians call Anguria, and another kind, which they here call Zucchi. I saw also in many places neglected, Fig-trees and Almond-trees, with Fruit upon them. Here groweth also abundance of Oaks, whereof I never saw any of the kind in England. It agreeth something with the description Gerard giveth of the Cerris Majore Glande, or the Holme-Oak with great Acorns; but not well with his Figure. It groweth to a large well proportion'd Tree, with a fair top and large branches; but whether it is good Timber, or no, I know not: Its small twigs bear a fair leaf, above as long again as broad, broad at the bottom and ending in a sharp point, snipped about the edges with deep sharp-pointed teeth, like a great saw, and of an Ashcolour, somewhat downy. It beareth an Acorn twice as big as our ordinary Oaks; which cometh out of a deep cup, that covereth half the length of it. It is rough on the outside, with a long, flat, and heavy substance; which before the Acorn appeareth, is like to those great excrescences, that sometimes are seen in the spring upon our young sappy Oaks.

In this walk I saw other curious Plants, as 1. Tragacantha,* 1.40 out of which Gumme Dragon issueth in some places: 2. Pastinaca Echi∣nifera, Fabij Columni: 3. Jacea Lutea, Capite Spinoso: 4. Tarton∣reina Massiliensium, of two kinds, Longifolio & Latifolio: 5. Papaver Caniculatum, horned Poppies, whose Flower is black at the bottom, fomewhat higher, of a deep red, and by degrees end in a Golden Colour: 6. Pancrasium in Flower: 7. Verbascum Marinum, laciniatis Folijs. So that I cannot with Mr. Sands, call this barren ground, but neglected: 'With these curiosities I entertained my self whilst the rest of our Company diverted themselves with the game they found in great plenty there; as Hares, red Partridges, Quails, Turtles, and a Bird about the bigness of a Thrush, the head and breast of a bright yellowish colour, the back and wings of a greenish grey, like a green Finch, the beak and head formed like a Thrush, and as fat as Hortu∣lans in France and Italie, and our Wheat-ears in England. Another kind, not much bigger, but shaped like a Bittern, with a long bill, long legs and claws; a crist of long Feathers on the Crown, and of a speckled colour like an Hawke.

When we came near to this ruined City, we saw abundance of broken Pillars of Marble and others, parts of Walls and Fundations along the shore, none standing upright, nor whole, but lying on the ground, and many a good way in the Sea, scaled by the weather, and eaten by the Salt-winds, that come from thence. A little further is the mole of a Port yet remaining, with a large and thick wall on the shore; which doubtless was beautified with those many Marble Pillars, that are now broken down all along under it: The mouth is now stopped up with sand, and remaineth very shallow. I cannot with my Companion, say, That this was the Port of Troy, so famous in Antiquity; nor yet this City that Ilium, or Troy, whose Wars have

been so Celebrated by the Unimitable Homer and Virgil; nor the An∣tiquities there remaining to be of any elder date then the Romans; although Bellonius is confident of it, and Petro della Valle, so won∣derfully pleased himself with the thoughts of it, that he fancied every great Tree a Hector, or Achilles, or an Aeneas, and all the Briers, and Bushes, that pricked his shins, their Armies; and could not forbear crying out, Hic Dolopum manus, hic saevus tendebat Achilles; Classibus hic locus, hic acies certare solebant. But rather that modern Ilium Strabo calleth of his time; which from a Village of the Trojans was begun to be Built by Alexander the great, and was finished by Lysimachus, and called Alexandria; afterwards made a Roman Colonie, and enriched with many priviledges. This our worthy Country-man, Mr. Sands, hath remarked, and discoursed of at large, having, I believe, followed Strabo for his guide. But to proceed:

A little above this Port are several Marble Tombs, some with the head of Apollo on them, and others with Bucklers; but I saw none here with Inscriptions. Monsieur Spon observed, that they were of the shape of those Roman Tombs at Arles in France; and therefore with all likely hood we judged them to be such, and not of the Ancient Trojans, as Petro della Valle phansieth. More South of the Port are two Pillars, lying upon the ground, of thirty Foot in length apiece; and another broken in three pieces, thirty five Foot, as Monsieur Spon Measured them; and the Diameter of this last, four Foot and nine Inches, of Granate Marble of Egypt. The Grand Signior hath had a great many Pillars carried from hence, to Build the New Mosque of the Sultane Mother. Going yet a little further along the shore we passed by some Ruins, that we supposed might have been an Aqueduct, to bring water to the Port: Some distance yet forward brought us to a Chanel, or Valley, which is long, streight, and deep, and undoubtedly made by Art; perhaps to let in the Sea, for Boats to come to the City: But it is now altogether drie. Streight up, beyond this Vallie, a little on the Right hand we came to abundance of considerable Ruins, which evidently discover the former greatness of this place. There is a Theater there, the Foundations and Walls of vast Temples and Palaces, with Arches above, and Vaults under ground.

There is also part of a little round Temple standing, which hath a curious Marble Cornish within, and hard by three Marble stones, made in the fashion of Altars, or Pedestals, with Inscriptions on them, differing only in the last Letters, as VIC. VII. and VIC. VIII.

DIVI JULI FLAMINI
C. ANTONIO M. F.
VOLT RVFO FLAMINI
DIVI AUG. COL. CL. APRENS
ET. COL. LUL. PHILIPPENS
EORUNDEM ET PRINCIPI ITEM
COL. IVL. PARIANAE-TRIB
MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUN
TAPIOR. TRIB. MIL. LEG. XIII.
GEM. PRAEF. EQUIT. ALAEI
SCUBULORUM VIC. VII.

They were erected in honour of Caius, Antonius, Rufus, Son of Marcus, of the Tribe Voltinia, Priest to Julius and Augustus Caesar, chief of the Colonie of Apros, of Claudius, of Philipi, of Julius; as likewise of the Parthian Colonie of Julius, the first two Cities of Thrace, and the last upon the Hellespont, a Tribune of the Militia of the XXXII. Cohort of Voluntiers, Commander of the XIII. Legion, called Gemina, and Captain of the first Wing of Horse of the Scibuli. Who these Scibull were I know not; whether a People, or a kind of Militia. Nor is the last line of every one of them easily understood. Monsieur Spon thinketh, that VIC. VII. VIC. VIII. VIC. IX. upon each of them, may fignifie Vicus Septimus, Vicus Octavus, &c. The Seventh, Eighth, or Ninth streets, in which these Statues were set up in imitation of the streets, and quarters of Rome, to which it was a Colony, planted by Augustus; who restored it again, as appeareth by many Medals; which shew it to have taken the name of Colonia Augusti Troas from him.

From the sea shore there is a very easy ascent unto the top of the hill; which is not high, but crowned with the Ruins of a most stately Building. What it hath been, whether Castle, Temple or Christian Church, is hard to determin: Which because none (that I have seen) hath yet done, I will endeavour to describe, according to the dimen∣sions I there took of it.

[illustration] floorplan of unidentified ruins

Lib. j Fig: XV

The whole length is about Four Hundred and thirteen Foot, from North, to South; the breadth from East to West, Two Hundred Twenty Four. The chief Front looked towards the West: where at the entrance you leave two Wings of Foundations, one on the Right∣hand, and the other on the Left, of equal length, and parallel to each other. That on the Left-hand is divided into two oblongs: Whereof that which is outmost, Northward, is Twenty four paces

wide, or Seventy four Foot; and hath meerly the Foundations of the out walls remaining, and plain ground within. The next is Thirteen paces wide, or Thirty nine Foot, and is the greatest part of it Vaulted and Arched underground. The other wing on the Left hand is of equal length, and Thirty three paces, or Ninety nine Foot in breadth. This hath nothing, but the Foundations of the Walls remaining, and plain ground within.

[illustration] ruins

Lib: j. Fig XVI

Between these two there seemeth to have been a large Court; which brings you to three great Arches, in a great and high wall; before which lieth a vast heap of Marble Pillars, Pilasters, Cornishes, and other great Square-pieces in such confused manner, that it is hard to judge in what form they were erected. But a Capital, and some Pillars shew them to have been of the Corinthian order, Channelled. I doubt not, but these made a most Magnificent Portico before those three Arches; which where the Gates, to enter into this Building. For the Wall it self is but of Free-stone, except the Frize on high, and some other Ornaments to the Arches which are of Marble; and above the Marble Freeze the wall beginning to bend forward, Arch-wise, as if it were to Vault a Portico, and the whole wall finisheth at each end about the length of the heap of Marble. The dimensions of this wall, and Arches are, as I took them by a French Foot (which differeth from ours but three parts of an hundred.) The middle Arch is Forty foot wide, and hath been walled up of the same stone and work; all to two little doors at each side. The two little Arches, on each hand of it, are Nineteen foot wide apiece, and filled up with stones, so that there is no entrance by them. The distance between the Arches is Ten foot; the distanoe from Arch to each Corner-end is Eleven and an half. The Front is thick Fourteen foot: So that I judge the Portico was a Hundred and Twenty foot

long, and about the breadth, that the great Arch is wide; which is Forty foot. Whose Vault was sustained within by those three Arches yet remaining, and without towards the Court by those Corinthian Pillars of White Marble, now lying in a heap before the Arches; which without doubt must have had a wonderful effect upon the Eyes of the beholders.

Where the wall of the Arches finish, begin the Foundations of another wall, on each hand, in a streight line of the same breadth, and reacheth about Forty one foot to the other Foundations I first mentioned; so that the whole of the Front within the Court is Two Hundred and three foot. Entring at the middle Gate, or Arch, presently you meet another Arch, which is low, and therefore (perhaps) was only an entrance to a Vault beneath. Going yet further you leave two square Foundations on each hand, and have before you, in the wall opposite to the Front, a great Arched Niche, a Hundred foot from the great entrance; and another about the same bigness on each side of it, opposite to the two walls, at each side of the Portico; with half a dozen small Niches between, on both sides of the great one. From the Northern Niche beginneth the Northern Wall, full of little Arches, as you may see in that I have endeavour'd to delineate.

The form of this Building would make me believe, that it hath bin a Christian Church; did not the Ancient Beauty of the Corinthian work in Marble on the Front forbid me. For in the Ancient Churches of Greece are every where seen a Portico, or Pronaos, before the entrance into the body of the Church; where the Catechumeni, or those which were not yet fully instructed in the Faith, or Penitents, who were not admitted into the more holy mysteries of Religion, were permitted to enter. Besides, the three great Niches at the East∣side, are not unlike to the end of a Greek Church: where that on the Right-hand resembles the Prothesis: the middle, the place where the holy Table used to stand: and the third, that where the holy Garments used to be laid. But it is also true, that in Heathen Temples many times such Niches are found, for Statues to be set in. However I believe it not the Castle of Priam, as the Country People now call it; nor of any earlier times then the Romans. Methinks, that it some∣thing resembles the form of the Temple of Diana at Ephesus; of which more hereafter.

From this hill is an easie descent every way. To the West, about two Miles is the Sea: Eastward is a large plain, stretched out between this hill and Mount Ida; which the River Simois watereth, and where in all probability stood the Ancient Ilum, unseen by any of our Company, we not going so far that way; but proved by Mr. Sands at large. Northward is a descent into a small plain; which then riseth again to another hill, making the Ancient Promontorium Sigaeum, now Capo Janizzari, entring the Hellespont about six, or eight Miles distant from the hill above mentioned.

The day ending sooner than our curiosity, we made hast to return to our Boat. In the way we stayed to drink at a well, about a Hundred paces from the shore, not above a Bow shot North of the Ancient Port I before spoke of. The water of it is very good. But

that they carried to the Vessel from the hidden Chanel, about two Miles more Northward, prov'd not so.

The twenty third of the same Month, after some days boarding against the wind, in sight of the Fort of Tenedos, (which I observed to have little strength either of Nature or Art, having only one Tower, furnished with about Fifteen pieces of Cannon) we came and dropped Anchor, near Capo Janizzari, before a Village called yet by the Greeks Troas. This Cape formerly had a Town called Sigaeum; whence that Cape, entring the mouth of the Hellespont, was deno∣minated. Here on the shore are two very good Fountains; from which our Vessel furnished themselves with water, and from the Town with Provisions, which are very cheap; especially Beans for Sea-men. Of Poultry, we had Fifteen fat Pullets for a Doller, which is less than a Groat apiece; and Eggs at least a dozen for a Peny; and Melons, of many sorts are so plentiful, that they sell them for any thing they can get. The Inhabitants are all Greeks, who live by their labour, and the fruit of the ground: Which consists in Corn, Wine, Saffron, Figs, Mellons, Almonds, and other Fruits. The Village may contain two or three hundred Families. The French piece of Money of five pence value, called in Turky a Timin, is very current Money every where, and there is worth Fourteen Aspers. But the Asper is but small, and will not pass at Constantinople.

Saturday, the twenty seventh of August, we set Sail, and the same evening dropped Anchor on the South-side of Imbros, to gain wind. This Island is a little bigger then Tenedos, from which it lieth North. It hath four Villages; of which the Principal is Imbros, guarded by a Fort: It lieth high, and is Mountainous, covered with woods, which are for the most part a kind of wild Pear-tree, and are well stored with game; as Hares, Rabbets, and abundance of Wild Boars; of which the Flemish Gentleman killed with his Dog and Gun, in two hours time a Boar and Sow,* 1.41 with four of their Pigs. But the pleasure cost him dear; for he was left behind on the Island; the chief Commander hoisting Sail sooner than was expected; yet the Captain being so kind to leave his Skiff, and four Sea-men to wait for him, they found us at Anchor within the Castles, after two days time and much danger by weather, and the Current still running very strong out of the mouth of the Hellespont. Monsieur Spon and I were almost in as bad a fear: For from the top of the Mountain, which we ascended to view the Island, we soon saw our Ships under Sail; and notwith∣standing all the speed we could make down, had almost lost the oppor∣tunity of returning to them. Nevertheless we observed that these Mountains had many pleasant Vallies between them, well tilled, and divided into Corn-fields: And many pleasant springs of excellent water, which falling, by many easie descents from the Rocks, make, as they pass, several pleasant little ponds to Bath in, under the shade of Fig-trees, Wild-Vines, Agnus Castus, and Oleander-trees.

The twenty ninth, Sunday evening, we came with a side-wind to the mouth of the Helles-pont, and in the Morning entred it, saluting the New Castles,* 1.42 placed on each side of the mouth, whose strength consists only in their great Guns, so mounted, that they can do execution

between wind and water. We gave them seven Guns, and they answered with one loaded, as the Turks still do: We returned thanks with five: for at Sea they still use an odd number in saluting; by which they signifie that they are Friends. I believe these new Castles were not Built in Mr. Sands's time, because he maketh no mention of them. That on Asia side is seen from Troas, whence it lieth not above two Miles, just within the Promontory Sigaeum, or Capo Janizzari, upon a flat ground. The other just within the opposite Promontory of the Thracian Chersonessus, on the side of a hill, with round Towers after the old fashion, and several ascents: The mouth lieth West, a little inclining to the North; and hath a reach, that continueth so about seven, or eight Miles within; and then, some two or three Miles, before ye come at the Dardanelli, or old Castles (called so now in opposition to the new) it turneth Northward, towards the Propontis.

As we entred in we passed very near a bank on the North shore, and dropped Anchor so near another about three or four Miles within, on the South-side of the Chanel, that we were forced to weigh again, to get more depth and better moorage; otherwise the Wind and Current would soon have driven us upon it. For it always setteth outward into the Archipelago with a strong Current. This Chanel hath been famous in History, and hath often changed name. For besides the name of Hellespont, or Sea of Hellas, Daughter of Athamas King of Thebes, drowned in passing it, when she fled from the snares of her Step-mother, Ino, it was also called the streights of Cestos and Abydos, two Cities Built on each side of its banks, opposite to each other, and famous for the Amours of Hero and Leander represen∣ted in some Medels of those parts. And in these latter times it is some∣times called the Dardanelli; which I believe, properly belonged to that they now call Old Castles; and by the Italians Labocca di Con∣stantinopoli; by us the Chanel, or Streight, of Constantinople.

The North-wind still continuing, as it sometimes doth in the Summer time two Months together, we could not get beyond this reach; and being tired with many days waiting for better weather, we resolved to go ashore, to a Village hard by on the Asian Conti∣nent, there to take Horses, or some other means to carry us to the Old Castles; where we might get Boats for our passage to Constanti∣nople. This Monsieur Spon took upno him, whilst I staid aboard to see all things in a readiness to part. But he not returning the next Morn∣ing, I went my self ashore to see what was the matter: And was carried to a Greeks house, where he Lodged with the Bishop of Micone, and Seriphus; who went ashore with the same design with us. I found them at breakfast on Grapes, Figs, Honey-combs, Eggs, Cheese, and Water-Mellons; for the Bishop, being a Caloyer (as they all are) never eateth any Flesh.

This Village is called Kainourio Chorio or New-town, consisting of about two hundred houses, all Greeks. It stands very pleasantly among Vineyards, and Almond-trees (Wine and Almonds being here extream cheap) and a kind of Juiuba, whose leaves shine like silver, and are long in shape, springing out from long, and tender branches like a willow, and yielding fruit, like in shape and colour to other

Jujubs, but of a more mealy-tast, perhaps, because they were over∣ripe. The branches grow ordinarily upon a thick-poled trunk, like a willow: I have seen another kind of these, about Smyrna, with a broader leaf, of the like silver-colour, resembling Portulaca Arbore∣seens, where they grow wild in the hedges.

But here we could get neither Horses, nor Boat. Wherefore Monsieur-Spon had provided each of us a conceited Chariot, or, to tell the truth, a Cart. The Carriage was wreathed round with wicker, the better to hold the Fruits they bring out of the fields; drawn upon two Wheels, without Spokes, of one solid piece of wood; and instead of Flanders Mares, by a pair of Boufaleaus, which marched in great state upon the Grand-pas. But they brought us to the Old Castles in as many hours as Miles, which I believe was seven or eight. The Consul for the English, Dutch and Genoeses, called Ezechiel Ruser, met us by the way, and very civily offered to provide us accommoda∣tions, either at his own, or his Friends house; which we were glad to accept of; and being better mounted then we, did as he had pro∣mised, and provided us Lodgings at his Friends, Abraham Corser's house, Consul for the Venetians; both Jews, but very civil persons.

This Castle is now called the Old Castle of Natolia, and the other the Old Castle of Romelia, as they now call the Continents of Greece and Asia. But were formerly called the Dardanelli: That of Natolia may contain two or three Thousand Souls. We expected, that they should have been better fortified, being places so considerable for the guard of Constantinople. But they are nothing so in effect; having only two or three round Gothick Bastions apiece: This of Natolia is situated upon a plain, low ground; the other upon the side of an hill, within Cannon shot of each other, no ways tenable by land. My Companion and I were of opinion, that these were not the Ancient Sestos and Abydos, so famous for the Amours of Hero and Leander: Because it is neither the narrowest place of these Streights, nor yet could we find any Marke of Antiquity for it. But at a place much narrower, which we passed, about three or four Miles further North∣ward, we found considerable Ruins on the shore of Natolia. This confirmed us in our opinion, and that the Dardanelli were Built after the Ruine of those places. But having since consulted Strabo, I am of opinion, that the City, Dardanus, was thereabouts; and that thence came the corrupted, modern, name of Dardanelli, applied to both Castles. For in Strabo's order Dardanus followeth Abydos; although his distance seemeth to differ from our remark; in which, without I had taken a more exact measure, I would give way to Strabo; who maketh it seventy Stadia, or about eight Miles.

After this we hired a Boat, about the bigness of a small Barge, for ten Dollers, to bring us to Constantinople, and parted from the Castles, accompanied, as the day before, with the Bishop of Micone, and an stalian Gentleman of Millain; being sometimes rowed, and sometimes drawn by our Water-men against the stream: which still setteth outward, though Petrodella Valle seemeth to make it run both ways. The Current is indeed stronger, when the North-wind blows, then when the South, or when it is a calm; but still it

cometh out of the Black-Sea by the Bosphorus, into the Mare Marmora, and thence into the Archipelago, as they now call the Euxin, Propontis, and Aegean Seas. After awhile we came to that place, which we suppose to be the true, Ancient Abydos, and there crossed the streight, about two Miles over, to the European shore; whence the Mariners, rowing all Night, brought us by break of day to Gallipoli.

Gallipoli is a large City, Situated at the mouth of the Propontis,* 1.43 in the Thracian Chersonessus, called of old by Strabo, Callipolis, not just opposite to Lampsacus, (as some say) but some Miles more North∣ward. It is almost an Island, having to the North and South two Bays for Gallies and Boats; and I judge that Ships may ride in the Southern most safe; though near the Current. On the shore are some old dry Stations for Gallies: The Town looketh better from without, then within; as do most of the Towns in Turky. For the Mosques (or Churches) and Bazestans, (or places of Traffick) have their high Cupuloes covered with Lead: which with the Minaretts (or high slender Steeples, from whence they sound out their shrill Voices instead of Bells, at their times of Prayer) and the goodly tall Cypress mixt among the houses, make a very pleasant prospect. But the houses are inconsiderable, and low, Built generally of Wood and Earth: the streets narrow, and sometimes covered with Wood to keep off the Sun. The Town is not walled, no more then most of the Cities, or Towns in Turky; except some Frontier Towns: But they say it is about six Miles about. At our arrival we were saluted with the news, that the Plague was in the Town, and much more at Constantinople; which is no great Noveltie in Turkey, being seldom, or never free. So we thought we had as good begin here to accustome our selves to its company: But with all care; putting our confidence in the great preserver of Mankind.

This place did not seem at all populous, considering the bigness; whether because of the Plague, or not, I am not certain; neverthe∣less they reckon the number of the Inhabitants, to be Twelve Thou∣sand Turks, Four or Five Thousand Greeks, and as many Jews. The Bezestan is the only thing worth seeing here; being Built Square, with six Cupoloes covered with Lead. We lodged in an open place, by the Southern harbour; being unwilling to venture our selves, where we knew no body, especially when the place was so infected. But had the Italian Consul (who was a Frier of the order of Saint Francis) been in Town, at his little Convent, of him we might have hoped for directions to better accommodation. This place hath the reputation of the best Water-Melons in those parts; and we had as many as we would for nothing; there lying great heaps of them neglected, in the place where we Lodged. There remain small marks of its Antiquity, and not much of its fame in Ancient Authors. On shore, by the Southern Port, lieth a Frize of Marble, very well wrought; and we found in the Town a small Inscription, where the name of one Theodotus and Bitana, Daughter of Anticles is mentioned.

ΠΑΝΤΑ ΘΕΟΔΟΤΟΥ
ΤΗΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ
ΒΑΤΑΝΑΝ ΑΝΤΙΚΛΕΟΥΣ

We hoped to find somewhat more considerable at Lampsaco;* 1.44 which is on the opposite side of the streight, on the Asian shore, something more to the Southward: And therefore, the wind being contrary for our proceeding forward, we took a bigger Boat and crossed over, notwithstanding a strong wind, that from the Propontis brought such foaming billows, as often was like to oreturn our little Vessel.

Lampsacus, now called Lampsaco, hath lost the advantage it had in Strabo's time of Callipoli; being now but a small Town inhabited by Turks, and some Greeks. Strabo counted the streight about five Miles over; and I believe it is not much more or less. Lampascus was one of the Towns Xerxes gave to Themistocles: Magnasia was for his Bread, Myuns for his Meat, and this for his Wine. And it hath yet indeed abundance of fine Vineyards all about it, especially on the South parts, well hedged with Pomegranate Trees. In this place the God Priapus, was worshipped before any of the rest, as Pausanias affirmeth: And was more Anciently called Petyusa. It had a good harbour, and was counted Twenty one Miles [or 170 Stadia] from Abydos: It now consists of about Two Hundred houses, and hath a fine Mosque; whose Portick is supported by Red Marble Pillars. It was formerly (they say) a Christian Church as they well prove by the Crosses that yet remain, carved on the Capitals of the Pillars. Entring into the Coffee-house, we met with one that could speak a little Italian, and was so kind, as for our Money to shew us the Town; and indeed shewed us many Inscriptions. The best were in the Garden of a Turk, called Achmet, Aga, Tchelebi.

The first is a Dedication of a Statue to Julia Augusta, complemented with the Titles of Vesta and new Ceres, by the Corporation; but the Cost of both the Basis and setting up was done at the proper Charge of Dionisius, Son of Apollonotimus, overseer of the decent distribution of the Coronets Priest of the Emperours and Coronet-bearer of all their Family, the second time Treasurer of the Senate.

ΙΟΥΛΙΑΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΗΝ
ΕΣΤΙΑΝ. ΝΕΑΝ ΔΕΜΗ
ΤΡΑ. Η. ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑ. ΤΟ ΔΕ
ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΑΓΑΛΜΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΒΑ
ΣΙΝ. ΚΑΙ. ΤΗΝ ΑΝΑΣΤΑΣΙΝ ΑΥ
ΤΟΥ ΔΑΠΑΝΗΜΑ ΠΟΙΗΣΑΜΕ
ΝΟΥ ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΥΠΕΡ. ΤΗΣ
ΕΙΣ ΤΟΥΣ ΣΤΕΦΑΝΟΥΣ ΕΥ
ΖΕΒΙΑΣ ΤΟΥ ΙΕΡΕΩΣ ΤΩΝ
ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΕΦΑΝΗΦΟΡΟΥ
ΤΟΥ ΣΥΜΠΑΝΤΟΣ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΟΙ
ΚΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΤΑΜΙΟΥ ΥΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΥ ΤΟ
ΔΕΥΤΕΡΟΝ
ΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΥ
ΤΟΥ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΟΤΕΙΜΟΥ

The second is the Basis of a Statue erected to the honour of one Cyrus, Son of Apollonius the most excellent chief Physitian to the City, erected by the Corporation for his many benefactions to the City, Anointing them splendidly and very sumptuously and bestowing a Thousand Atticks on the Corporation.

Η ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑ
ΚΥΡΟΝ. ΑΠΟΛΛΟΝΙΟΥ. ΑΡΧΙΑ
ΤΡΟΝ. ΑΡΙΣΤΟΝ. ΠΟΛΕΙ. ΤΗΝ. ΕΠΙ
ΣΗΜΟΝ. ΠΡΟΣ. ΠΟΛΛΟΙΣ. ΕΥΕΡΓΕ
ΤΗΜΑΣΙΝ. ΕΙΣ. ΑΥΤΗΝ. ΑΛΕΙΨΑΝΤΑ
ΛΑΜΠΡΩΣ. ΚΑΙ. ΠΟΛΥΔΑΠΑΝΩΣ. ΚΑΙ
ΑΣΥΝΚΡΙΤΩΣ. ΚΑΙ. ΑΠΟΧΑΡΙΣΑΜΕ
ΝΟΝ ΧΕΙΛΙΑΣ. ΑΤΤΙΚΑΣ. ΤΗ. ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑ

Another he shewed us, where he said were formerly many Pillars, and other Marbles dug up; and some other Ruins, which we judged to have been the Ancient Walls of the Town. Another we Copied at a Christians house; who told us, there had been some Vessels of Marble, with Inscriptions on them, found thereabouts in the ground, and are now in the hands of a Turk, though formerly belonging to a Priest, which we could not see, he not being then at home. He also conducted us about a Mile out of Town, through the Vineyards, to the Foundation of an Ancient Temple; where he told us was an Inscription, but we found it not. There lie about it a dozen of Marble Pillars, at the Front, heaped upon one another: of which they confidently tell, that part of these were carried by the Turks to the Town, to Build a Mosque with; but that they were brought back again in the Night by no body knows what means, and that twice after one another.

The Turks here are not so scrupulous, as in many other places; where they dare not plant Vineyards; Wine being forbidden them by their Law. Here they take the liberty of making them boiled Wines for Sorbet; and make Aqua Vitae, under the pretence of having Grapes to eat: Of which most of them drink more freely than we do.

We returned in the evening to Gallipoli, with the same wind as in the Morning, and little less danger. The next evening we parted from Gallipoli in the calm, and in the Morning found our selves at Peraste, Thirty Miles forwarder on the Thracian coast.* 1.45 It is a Town of about two hundred houses. Here the Aga, or Governour, sent very civilly for us his Son; (having seen the Abbot Charpentier before at the Old Castles: Who went the same way with us;) and entertained us with Coffee, and other Fruits. Here the number of the Turks and Christians are about equal. At a Church we saw the head of a Bacchus defaced, with some other Fragments of Antiquity, here and there upon the ground: But I cannot well guess at the Ancient name of the place; we bought Wine here, for our Voyage, at four Aspers the Oka, (a weight used in Turkey of about Forty two Ounces, as I remember) which is not above Three-half-pence the quart.

Half a dozen Miles further we stopped again, at a Village called Heraclissa,* 1.46 a good large Town on a hill.

About six or seven Miles further, at an other Town, called by the Greeks Myriophyton, and by the Turks Murfton, of about two hundred houses, here walking in the streets, we were dashed out of Countenance by the Children; who flocked after Monsieur Spon, making a noise we understood not: which I believe was, by reason Monsieur Spon had put on a pair of Turkish Slippers to his French Sute; which I confess made but a ridiculous show. We there∣fore returned to our Boats; and there were met by the Sangiac, that governed the place; who seeing us to be Strangers, accosted us very civilly with the little Lingua Franca that he had. He told us, that he had been taken a Slave about three years before, and carried to Malta, by one Captain Daniel of Marseilles, a Pyrate; of whose civility to him he gave great Commendations; and that it was but a little while since he got his liberty, which cost him six hundred Dollers. He was very civil, asked us whether we wanted any Provisions, and after we had taken our leave of him, sent us a Basket of admirable white Grapes, in bunches of a great length, and the Fruit as big as Pigeons Eggs.

Hence, four or five Miles further we came to a large Town, called Chora,* 1.47 situated very pleasantly on a little hill, whose ascent is steep on every side; which separates it, as by a large Trench, from the High-hills that encompass it on all parts, except towards the Sea. From thence parting in the evening, we made about twenty Miles,* 1.48 and found our selves in the morning over against Rodeste. A Town at least as big as Gallipoli, and more populous. It is situated upon the brow of an hill, at the bottom of a Bay, and maketh a goodly shew towards the Sea. We could number ten or twelve Mosques by the Minaretts. The Greeks have also they say many Churches there.

From Rodeste the shore of the Propontis (or mare Marmora) rangeth it self Eastwards. At the opposite Promontorie of this Bay we made a stop; because we saw the weather begin to gather: which made us look for a wind, but from what quarter we knew not; for it was till now calm. This gave me opportunity to search, what Plants this shore produced. Besides several that I had mentioned before in other places, I found a sort of Shrub Spurge, which by the Herbalists is named Esula Rara, Atractylis Purpurea; and one or two more, I have not yet names for.

We had not staid here long, but the wind we expected proved a brisque South-wind; which three or four hours before Night brought us thirty Miles over a Gulph to Heraclea. This Town hath a good harbour; whose mouth lieth East of it,* 1.49 turning about so, that it maketh a Peninsula. It bends round in the form of an Amphitheater, and may have about four or five Miles in Circumference. The Town lieth in the Streight, having the Sea on the one side, and the Port on the other; we made hast ashore, to employ what time we had in viewing it; soon discovering it to be a place of great Antiquity by the Foundations of the old walls, especially on the West-side, and towards the Haven; where strewed up and down, we saw abundance of Fragments of Marble

Statues, Cornishes, Bulls-heads, Wreaths of Plenty, and broken Pillars; and of such are compiled the present Buildings of the Town. Among those we saw some Inscriptions; which we went to Copy, but unfortunately my Comerades, and I both had lost our Pens; a damage in Turky not easily repaired: For they write with Pens made of Reeds which we could hardly have used. But by better fortune we cast our Eyes upon a Goose wing, lying in the streets, which furnished us again with Pens; and therewith we Copyed several good Inscrip∣tions, especially one, where we found the name Perinthus, which this City bare in the time of the first Roman Emperours; it being more Anciently called Heraclea; which it regain'd in the time of the latter Emperours, as Zozimus reporteth, and yet retains the same.

ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΑ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑ
Λ. ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΝ ΣΕΒΗΡΟΝ
ΕΥΣΕΒΗΝΠΕΡΤΙΝΑΚΑ
ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΝ ΑΡΑΒΙΚΟΝ
ΑΔΙΑΒΙΝΙΚΟΝ ΠΑΡΘΙΚΟΝ
ΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΝ Η ΒΟΥΑΗ
ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΩΝ
ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ
ΠΕΡΙΝΘΙΩΝ

This Inscription is on the Pedestal of a Statue erected to the honour of the Emperour Severus, whom they had reason to honour as their Benefactour, because he Sublected Byzantium to them; at which he was offended, because that Town had espoused the party of Pescennius Niger against him. Sir John Finch, the Kings Embassadour at Con∣stantinople as we were one day Discoursing concerning the Situation of this place, gave us an account of an Inscription, that he found at a Town called Chourly, in the way to Adrianople, erected in honour of the Emperour Herennius Etruscus, by the Perinthians; which being too big to be removed, he was of opinion, that that might be the Ancient Perinthus. But we concluded, that it was rather a Town under the jurisdiction of the Perinthians, as Byzantium was, a great deal further off. For this is not many Miles distant from Heraclea but could not be the Perinthus, because the Ancient Geographers make it a Port as Town Traclea is, but Chourly an In-land Town. And there∣fore the reverse of their Coyn was usually a Gally, of which I have a curious Medalion, that my Friend Monsieur Spon helped me to at my return. It hath the Head of the Emperour Septimius Severus on one side, and a Gally on the other, with the Sails hoisted, and these Letters about it ΠΕΡΙΝΘΙΩΝ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ of the Perinthians Neo∣corus: But what Neocorus signifies, so often seen in Medals and In∣scriptions, hath much puzzled the Antiquaries, and very little satis∣faction they yet give. Doctor Bon, a Grecian, now at Venice doth promise the World a Book concerning it.

ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΑ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑ ΤΡΑΙΑΝΟΥ
ΠΑΡΘΙΚΟΥ ΥΙΟΝ ΟΕΟΥ ΝΕΡΟΥΑ ΥΙΩΝΟΝ
ΤΡΑΙΝΟΝ ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΝ ΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗ
ΕΖΟΥΣΙΑΣ ΤΟΙ ΥΠΑΤΟΝ ΤΟ. Γ

We found here another Inscription of the Emperour, Hadrian, in the Cathedral Church; besides one more in the Town, being only a Sepulchral stone of a Roman. As poor a place as it now is, it is an Archbishops seat; whose Church is one of the best now standing in Turkey: And in times of the Christian Emperours this Metropolitane was one of the three, that with the Patriarch had the priviledge of Crowning the Emperour at his Inauguration.

In the Cathedral Church in a little Chappel, at the Right-hand is the Tomb of one of our Country-men, that died here, whilst he was Embassadour from his Majesty of Great Britain, &c. Sir Edward Guitts, written in Greek Characters thus: ΓΟΥΙΤΣ.

We parted about Midnight in a calm, and about Sun-rising passed Selimbria, which is an Ancient Town, on our Left-hand. It hath now several Mosques, a Bazarne, and several Greek Churches. Af∣terwards Pivadis, and Great Schecmashe, which lieth in the road between Constantinople, Adrianople, and several more Villages, four or five Miles distant from each other.

All about these parts are the Serraglioes, or Countrey-houses of the great Men among the Turks, (just as it is Ten, or Twenty Miles about London) with their Gardens, Vineyards, and Groves of Cypress-trees. The evening we came to St. Stephano's about nine, or ten Miles from Constantinople; a large Town, and most of the Inhabitants Christians. Here we lay all Night in our Boat; and parting early in the Morning we doubled the Cape of the Bosphorus Thracius; which is about three Miles from the Southern Walls of Constantinople; where we arrived Monday the Thirteenth of September.

The End of the first Book.

Notes

• * 1.1

  St. Andrè.
• * 1.2

  Plants of St. Andrè.
• * 1.3

  Pola.
• * 1.4

  Zara
• * 1.5

  Gruterus p. ccci. Jad. id. 8. JADRATI∣NAF. ccc.
• * 1.6

  Zara Vechia.
• * 1.7

  Mortaro.
• * 1.8

  Pinax Bau∣hini, lib. 3. sect. 1.
• * 1.9

  Sabenigo.
• * 1.10

  Spalato.
• * 1.11

  Salona.
• * 1.12

  Clissa.
• * 1.13

  Tran.
• * 1.14

  Lesina.
• * 1.15

  Ulcinium.
• * 1.16

  Chimera.
• * 1.17

  Corfu.
• * 1.18

  Med. 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11.
• * 1.19

  Med. 1, 2, 3, 4, &c.
• * 1.20

  ΚΟΡΚΥΡΑ.
• * 1.21

  〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
• * 1.22

  He derives his name from the Isle Marmero, in the Propon∣tis, of which his Family were once Masters.
• * 1.23

  Med. 12.13.
• * 1.24

  CEPHALO∣NIA.
• * 1.25

  St. MAURO.
• * 1.26

  CLIMENO.
• * 1.27

  L'ARTA.
• * 1.28

  Zant.
• * 1.29

  Med. 14.
• * 1.30

  CERIGO.
• * 1.31

  THERMIA.
• * 1.32

  TENOS.
• * 1.33

  Med. 15, 16, 17, 18.
• * 1.34

  Ger. p 412.
• * 1.35

  DELOS.
• * 1.36

  Ibid. Mac. VIII.
• * 1.37

  SCIO.
• * 1.38

  LESBOS.
• * 1.39

  TROY.
• * 1.40

  PLANTS.
• * 1.41

  IMBROS.
• * 1.42

  HELLES∣PONT.
• * 1.43

  GALLIPOLI.
• * 1.44

  LAMSPACO.
• * 1.45

  PERASTE.
• * 1.46

  HERACLIS∣SA.
• * 1.47

  CHORA.
• * 1.48

  RODESTE.
• * 1.49

  HERACLEA.