A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures.

THE Sixth BOOK Containing Several JOURNEYS FROM ATHENS, TO THE ADJACENT PLACES OF Attica, Corinth, Boeotia, &c. (Book 6)

AFTER we had staid a Month at Athens, rested our selves, viewed, and reviewed its Antiquities at our Leisure; we began to make some small Excursions, to see the Adjacent Places.

I.

Our first Expedition was to climb up Mount Hymettus,* 1.1 whose Foot is about three or four Miles from Athens, South-East of it: It lies in length, beginning North-East, and descends into the Saronick Gulph South-West; there making the Promontory Zoster. We hired Horses, made Provision for a Day, and had the Company of the Consul; who would have shewed us the Country round from the Top of it: But as soon as we were come up, a Cloud of Snow intercepted between us and the most charming Prospect my Eyes ever beheld: Which, though I was then prevented of seeing; yet another time, at my second being at Athens, I viewed it more at my Leisure, and with the greatest Satis∣faction

I could wish. For when I had long waited for a fair Day, with∣out a Cloud to hinder me, I immediately took Horse, and hasted to the highest Point of it, with all the speed imaginable, lest I should give time to bad Weather to disappoint me: For the truth is, while we were at Athens, we had, for the most part, such ill Weather, that ou•• Acquain∣tance would say, That i•• they wanted Rain for their Olive yards, they need but send to us to go abroad, and they should have it: And indeed, I confess, that the Evil Spirits of the Air had some reason to envy us the Pleasure of so excellent a sight. For hence I had not only all Attica in my view; but great part of the Archipelago, and Morea, as far as the Isthmus and Corinth, and on the other hand Negropont, almost to the Euripus. But more particularly, I observed with my Compass as follow∣eth, intending this to be the Basis, on which I resolved to fix the com∣posing my Map of Achaia.

• 1. First, I observed where Eubaea, or Negropont begins to appear, o∣ver Mount Parnes, to be North.
• 2. A Mountain of Eubaea, called now Delphi, North by East.
• 3. The most Southern Promontory of Eubaea from this Place, called now Caris••s, by the Greeks, East.
• 4. Andros Island, South-East by East.
• 5. M••cronisa, in times past, Helena, beginneth South-East, and end∣eth South-East by South.
• 6. An Island called S. Georgio di Alboro, toward Milo, South by West.
• 7. Cape Schil••o, or the Promontorium Schillaeum of the Morea, forming the Saronick Gulph, South, South-West.
• 8. The highest point of Aegina, by us called Engia, South-West by West.
• 9. Another Island, which I think is Lavousa, West by South.
• 10. Corinth, West by North.
• 11. Paleovouni, or Geranea mons, West, North-West. Macriplai in the same Line, a little more North: And between them, is Megara.
• 12. Helicon, now called Zagara, North-West by West.
• 13. Cithaeron, now Elataea, beginneth North-West by West, endeth North-West by North.
• 14. Parnes mons, now Chasha and Nozea, beginneth North-West by North, endeth North by East: Its highest Point, North: The way over it to Chalcis, now Egripus, North by East.
• 15. Pentelicus mons, its highest Point, North-East by North.
• 16. Porto Raphti, antiently Panormus Portus, on the Attick Shore, South-East by East.
• 17. Promen••or•••• 〈◊〉〈◊〉, now Capo Colonni, South by East.
• 18. P••troc•••• Insid••, now called Guidronisa, South.
• 19. Ph••lar••ns Port••••, Munichia, and beyond them the Island Salamis, now Colouri, West.
• 20. Piraens Portus, now Porto Draconi by the Turks, Porto Lioni by the Francks, West by North.
• 21. The Promontory Amphialia, and streight between Salamis and Attica, West, North-West.

• 22. Eleusis, now Lepsina, North-West by West.
• 23. A Hill, about a Mile from Athens, in the way to Cape Colonni: whence I took another Prospect of Athens; West, North-West.
• 24. The Wood of Olive-Trees, on the River Cephisus, begins West, North-West, ends North, North-West.
• 25. Athens-Castle, North-West by West.
• 26. Anchesmus, or Mount S. Georgio, id.

After I had done this, and taken some of the prospects of the Moun∣tains, as the little time I had would permit, I made all the haste I could down (although very unwillingly so soon) for fear of being benighted: as Mr. Vernon was on the same account, and shut out of the Town; putting the Consul to a great deal of care and trouble for his safety, be∣ing gone out alone, a foot, and without a Guide. The first time I went forth with my Companion and the Consul, we, losing our labour by rea∣son of the Snow that fell, returned down the nearest way we could, pas∣sing by three Monasteries, that lay on that side of the Mountain. The first in descending is called Hagio-Jani ho Carias. The second is now de∣serted, and they say the Italians had formerly a Church there in common with the Greeks, called Hagios Georgios ho Koutelas. The third is called Hagios Kyriani by the Greeks, and by the Turks Cosbashi; because of a Sheeps Head engraven on a Marble-Sepulchre, now made use of for a Cistern to the Fountain arising there, whose stream falls into the Ilissos. The Covent is well enough built for that Country, where they do not strive to excel in stately Buildings; but rather to hide themselves as much as they can in obscurity from the World. This Mountain is celebrated for the best Honey in all Greece, of which it makes a great quantity to send to Constantinople, where it is much esteemed for making Sorbets. They use therefore to bring all the Honey made hereabouts, to be marked with the Mark of this Monastery of Cosbashi, to make it sell the better. We eat of it very freely, finding it to be very good; and were not at all incommodated with any Gripings after it. This Mountain was not less famous in times past for Bees and admirable Honey, the Antients believing that Bees were first bred here, and that all other Bees were but Colonies from this Mountain; which if so, we assured our selves, that it must be from this part of the Mountain that the Colonies were sent; both because the Honey here made is the best, and that here they never destroy the Bees. It is of a good consistence, of a fair gold-co∣lour, and the same quantity sweetens more water than the like quantity of any other doth; which they sufficiently experience in making Sorbet. They wondred at my Comrade, in that he preferred the white Honey of France (as that of Provence is) telling him, the white Honey was raw, and not perfectly concocted, either by Nature or the Bees. Strabo, I remember, saith, The best Honey of Hymettus was by the Silver Mines: But where they were, is now unknown; unless hereabouts, by the same reason. Now the best Argument to prove that Bees had their original from hence, is, That here they never destroy or impair the Stock of Bees in taking away their Honey. A thing which I no sooner knew, but I was inquisitive to understand their Method in Ordering the Bees; which being an Art so worthy the Knowledge of the Curi∣ous,

I shall not think it beside the purpose, to relate what I saw, and was informed to that effect, by such as had Skill in this Place.

[illustration] a Greek beehive

Lib. VI. The Greek Beehive

The Hives they keep their Bees in,* 1.2 are made of Willows, or Osiers, fashioned like our common Dust-Baskets, wide at the Top, and narrow at the Bottom; and plaister'd with Glay, or Loam, within and without. They are set the wide end upwards, as you see here, (A. B.) The Tops being covered with broad flat Sticks, (as at C. C. C.) are also plaistered with Clay on the Top; and to secure them from the Weather, they co∣ver them with a Tuft of Straw, as we do. Along each of those Sticks, the Bees fasten their Combs; so that a Combe may be taken out whole, without the least bruising, and with the greatest ease imaginable. To increase them in Spring time, that is, in March or April, until the be∣ginning of May, they divide them; first separating the Sticks, on which the Combs and Bees are fastened, from one another with a Knife: so taking out the first Combs and Bees together, on each side, they put them into another Basket, in the same Order as they were taken out, until they have equally divided them. After this, when they are both again accommodated with Sticks and Plaister, they set the new Basket in the Place of the old one, and the old one in some new Place. And all this they do in the middle of the day, at such time as the greatest part of the Bees are abroad; who, at their coming home, without much difficulty, by this means divide themselves equally. This Device hin∣ders them from swarming, and flying away. In August they take out their Honey; which they do in the day-time also, while they are abroad; the Bees being thereby, they say, disturbed least. At which time they take out the Combs laden with Honey, as before; that is, beginning at each out-side, and so taking away, until they have left only such a

quantity of Combs in the middle, as they judge will be sufficient to maintain the Bees in Winter; swee ping those Bees, that are on the Combs they take out, into the Basket again, and again covering it with new Sticks and Plaister. All that I doubt concerning the Practice of this here in England, is, that perhaps they gather a less quantity of Ho∣ney; and that, should they take the like quantity of Honey from the Bees here in England, they would not leave enough to preserve them in Winter. But this hinders nor much: For by being less covetous, and not taking so much Honey from the poor Bees, the great enerease and multiplying of them would soon equalize, and far exceed the little Profit we make by destroying of them. This is done without Smoak; wherefore the Antients call this Honey 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Ʋnsmoaeken Honey: And I believe the Smoak of Sulphur, which we use, takes away very much of the Fragrancy of the Wax; and sure I am, the Honey can re∣ceive neither good Taste, nor good Smell from it.

This Convent payeth but one Chequin, for all its Duties, to the Vei∣vode. It is a piece of Gold of the Venetian Coyn, worth two Dollers, and an half, and about twelve Shillings, English. The reason of which small Tribute is, that when Athens was taken by Mahomet the Second, the Hegoumeno, or Abbot of this Convent was sent by the Town, to de∣liver him up the Keyes of the Gates; which Mahomet was so glad of, that to testifie his Joy and Content, and to recompense the Messenger, he exempted this Convent from all manner of Taxes and Customs; re∣serving only one Chequin, to be paid as a Quit-Rent for an Acknowledg∣ment. The present Abbot is called Ezekiel Stephaki, who lives at Athens, and is a learned Man for that Country; understanding the Antient Greek very well, and Latine indifferently, with a little Italian. He un∣derstands Philosophy too, so far as to be esteemed a Platonist; and not∣withstanding that he is an Abbot, yet he professes not to be a Divine, but a Physician. In my Return to Athens I was daily with him; and of him I learned to read Greek, according to the Modern Pronunciation. I found him to be really a good, discreet, and understanding Man: and what Piques soever have been between the Beninzueloe's and him, perad∣venture, have proceeded rather from the Emulation of the first, than from any just or real Cause given by him. I easily perceiv'd, he was not over-fond of some of the Greekish Superstitions: But for all that, he seems to be both a good Man, and a good Christian; and that whatever they talk of him otherwise, are but Trifles, and perhaps unde••erv'd. He hath some Manuscripts, especially S^t John Damasoen; which he offer'd to ex∣change with me for an Atl••s, if I sent it him. But I have not yet had an Opportunity to send it. The rest of the Convents about this Moun∣tain, are called Asteri: Hagios Ioannes Kynigos; and Hagios Ioannes o Theologos. There is another Convent near Mount S^t George, called A∣sωmatos.

Mount Hymettus is now called Telovouni, towards the North-East end, and Lambravouni towards the South-West end, by the Greeks, as my Comrade observes. This last they call Lambravouni, from a ruin∣ed Town, called Lambra, or Lambrica, situated under Mount Hymettus, South; and is a Corruption of the ancient Lampra, which they pro∣nounce Lambra. But this is only a Point of the Mountain, that lieth be∣hind

the other, and is scarce seem from Athens; being also separated from the rest of Hymettus by a narrow Valley, through which lieth the way from Athens to Capo Colonni. But I remember not, that I heard it called by the Athenians otherwise, than Imet, or Tis Imettes Vouni; that is, Hymettus Mountain. But the Francks call it Monte-Matto; which is but another manifest Corruption of Mount Hymettus.

In my Visits to this Mountain I observed many curious Plants, both upon it, and in the Plain of Athens about it. It was in the Month of February; and the chief of them, are these that follow: Viz.

• 1. First, Acacia secunda Muttheoli.
• 2. Anaemone of all sorts and Colours, in great plenty.
• 3. Arisarum.
• 4. Arisarum alterum Mattheoli.

[illustration] plant

Lib: VI Aristolochia Long{us} ibd clematitis

• 5. Aristolochia Clematites. This is a kind of Aristolochia Clematites; but differeth from the other, in that the Plant is more tender, and the Leaves end not in a sharp Point; but are notched at the end. The Root like the other, thick and long; and so the Smell. They call it here 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Aristolochia rotunda also, they say, groweth here; but I saw it not.
• 6. Aster Verbascum.
• 7. Aster frutescens, sive Herba terribilis.
• 8. Aster Atticus Verus.
• 9. Asphodelus.
• 10. Asphodelus, juncisolio.
• 11. Brassica frutescens.
• 12. Borago Variegeta, Cretica. This Plant, I believe, ought rather to be referred to the Bugloss, from the shape of the Flower. It is a small tender Plant, whose Leaves are long and rough, spotted with white spots:

• the Flowers growing in bunches on the top, in shape like Bugloss, of a whitish colour, speckled with spots of a deep Blue or Purple, and of a very fragrant smell too, something resembling Violets.
• 13. Cneoron, Mattheoli, sive Clusii.
• 14. Cistus mas, and other kinds.
• 15. Cistus, foemina. Ledum.
• 16. Cyclamen Vernale.
• 17. Coris, legitima Clusii.
• 18. Equisetum frutescent.
• 19. Flos Adonis, flore gilvo.
• 20. Jacea humilis.
• 21. Jacea spinosa.
• 22. Jacea Moschata. This Plant I have not seen in our Parts; in which, from a Root not unlike the others, rise many jagged Leaves, that lie upon the Ground, of a white hoary colour. Towards the Sprouts it smelleth like Musk. The Flower I saw not; but am inform'd, that it was white; of a good Savour also, and like in shape to our ordinary Knapweed.
• 23. Doricnium Narbonense.
• 24. Ilex Calamifera.
• 25. Frittalera: But of what kind, I know not; for it was then bud∣ded, but not blown.
• 26. Genista Spinosa.
• 27. Lentiscus.
• 28. Hypericon.
• 29. Leontopetalum, growing all over the Plain.
• 30. Oleander is here called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; that is, Bitter Laurel.
• 31. Papaver Orcas, flore variegato. This is different from ours, in that the black bottom is fashioned like a Heart, with a white Border about it.
• 32. Prunella Spinosa.
• 33. Papaver Corniculatum, flore Sanguineo.
• 34. Polium montanum praestantius, sive Creticum.
• 35. Papaver Corniculatum, flore Purpureo, sive Violaceo.
• 36. Ruta Agrestis.
• 37. Pinus Montana.
• 38. Raponticum.
• 39. Satyrion, Apii flore.
• 40. Scilla.
• 41. Scorzonera.

[illustration] bulbous plant

Lib. VI. Scoizanera bulbosa

• 42. Scorzonera Radice rotundâ. This is a kind of Scorzonera, un∣known in our Parts, and is thus form'd: From a round Bulbous Root, about the bigness of a Wall••••t, with one or two black Strings, arise several long and narrow Leaves, with a Silver-colour'd Hair upon them: After which cometh a Yellow Flower, like to Scorzonera, about a hands∣breadth from the Ground. The Greeks call it Galacorta, that is, Milk-Herb; for the whole Plant is full of it.
• 43. Scorzonera Cretica. This is a Plant much like the Asphodelus Fi∣stulosus, as to the Leaves; for they are hollow, like young Onyons. But the Root is thick, and grows deep in the Ground; being full of a thick, white, and well-tasted Milk. They call this likewise Galacorta; which the Women use to whiten their Faces with; and say. That being eaten, it is good to make their Milk come plentifully.
• 44. Salvia Pomifera.
• 45. Salvia Verbascum.
• 46. Stoechas Citrina.
• 47. Sabina Baccifera, or rather Cedrus Lyciae.
• 48. Siliqua Edilis. This groweth to a large Tree; whose Leaf is fashioned like to the Turpentine, but somewhat more shining: It bear∣eth the Flowers in bunches; and, if I remember right, they are of a Purple colour; and appeareth early in the Spring. The Fruit is a Cod, like to a French-Bean, bending somewhat in form of a Sickle, of a brown colour, with Seed like French-Beans in it. When it is ripe, the whole Husk is of a sweet Taste; yet joyn'd with an astringent Harshness. This was the Food the Prodigal in the Gospel was reduced to, when he fed with the Swine, having spent all his substance in lewd and riotous living with Harlots: For this is yet by the Greeks called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉;

• and antiently, by Dioscorides, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; which is the name, that in S^t Luke's Gospel is given to the Prodigal's Food: Wherefore I think, the word is not so properly rendred Husks, seeing these 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 were things in their nature eatable, though no good Food. The Greeks use to boyl them, and extract a sweet Syrup out of them; often eating them also raw. They are ordinarily sold by the Fruiterers in Italy, and by them called Carobi, or Carobs.
• 49. Tithymallus Spinosa.
• 50. Teucreum, sive Galeopsios Species.
• 51. Thymus Capitatus, called by the Greeks, Thymaro.
• 52. Tragoriganum, called by them also, Thymococino.
• 53. Thymelaea Argentata, sive Tarton rara Massiliensium. This is a beau∣tiful Shrub, its Leaves seeming like white Satten.
• 54. Thymelaeae Tomentosa; the Leaves of this are like Sedum Vermi∣culare, the Branches being covered with them; out of which come ve∣ry small Flowers, mix'd within with an Orange-colour. But the Branches towards the Root are covered with a woolly Roughness; and is a Shrub growing ordinarily two foot high.
• 55. Terebinthus.
• 56. Lychnis Frutescens.
• 57. One Plant I found here, to which I know not what Name to give. M^r M••••chani at Paris doubts, whether it be not Campanula Lu∣tea mortis Lupl. It is a Shrub growing hardly two foot high, and that with Branches, whose tops are set round very thick with small Silver'd Leaves, like Tartan rara of Marsels; out of which I found long dead Stalks to have grown, without any Heads; I suppose, because spoiled by the Winter. So that it is hard to say, unto what species we ought to refer it. I believe it would prove a Scabiosa, if ever any be so curious as to seek it, and so fortunate as to find it in Flower or Seed. I found it only in a prominent little part of the Rock of this Mountain, descen∣ding to the Convent Ciriani.
• 58. On the top of the Mountain I found an Herb, they call here Scor∣pido-corta, because the Root is like a Scorpion, swelling in the middle with a scaled Body, a sharp Tail, and the little Strings on each side seem∣ing like little feet. It runs in the Ground in such manner, that one would think it were several Scorpions, following one after another. The Leaves rise cut somewhat like Pile-wort, or small Colt's-foot Leaves; and, as I was informed, a yellow Flower followeth, like Dandelyon. They say, It cureth the Sting of a Scorpion. I believe it to be a kind of Dor∣nieium; and, perhaps, the second in Gerard; but groweth not so large here, as he describes it.
• 59. A kind of Rapistrum groweth in the Corn-fields about Athens; which differs from our Charlock, in that the Flowers are of a much pa∣ler yellow, and sometimes white, with dark-colour'd Veins, like Gera∣nium Variegatum.
• 60. Several kinds of the little Leucoium.

II.

At another time we went to see the Sea-Coasts of Athens,* 1.3 to∣wards the Saronick Gulph, and to survey the antient Harbours along that Shore. So taking Horses, we directed our Course to the Eastern Point of the Bay Phalara. In our way, about a couple of miles out of Town, we passed through the Athenian Vineyards, and came to the Ea∣stern end of a Marshy Lake, called by Xenophon, Phalaraea Palus, but now Tripyrga; because there were, as they say, three Towers by it: which probably were the ruines of the Town of Limne. This Lake stretcheth it self in length at least three miles along the Shore, and from the Eastern end of it runneth a little Rivulet into the Sea, not far from the Eastern Point of the Bay of Phalara; where stands a little ruined Church, called St. Nicholo. The place, I believe, was antiently called Colias Promontorium. From this to the Western Point, is about three miles? to which we went, continuing along the shore, making a great circumference, till we came where the Portus Phalareus was, situate at the North-West corner of the bottom of the Bay, and is called now only Porto. There remains yet the little Harbour to be seen, with part of the Walls that secured it: But it is now chok'd up with the Sand, and so shallow, that only small Boats lye there. Neither doth the Bay af∣ford any secure Harbour, as lying open to the South Easterly and Westerly Winds; and Ships that drop Anchor there, are forced to keep a•• large for want of sufficient depth: So that the Antients had very good reason to change their station for Ships from hence to Piraea. Hard by, are the ruines of the Town, and Castle belonging to it, be∣ing 〈◊〉〈◊〉 four miles from Athens.

Still coasting Westwards a mile or two, we came to another Harbour, called in times past Munichia; which was then, though but small, yet a very good and secure Harbour; but is now quite chok'd up, and useless. A little from the shore there are seen ruines of Vaults, pieces of Pil∣lars and hewn Stones under water; and on the shore, hard by, are many more, besides Caves digg'd in the Rocks, Vaults, Walls, broken Pillars, and the foundations of a Temple, which we guessed to be that of Diana of Munichia. Thence to the raines of Pitaea is but a little way, I do not believe much above a quarter of a Mile, going in a streight Line: But going by the Sea-Coasts, by reason of the crookedness of the Shore, it may be ne•••• two miles: Which shews the errour of Ptolomy, and our modern Geographers, that follow him; who make them at least ten miles distant from each other: whereas indeed Phalara, which is furthest off from P••••aea, is not at most above four miles distant. But the Shore indeed is almost formed into a Peninsula; in the Neck of which Phalard lyeth to the East, and Piraea to the West.

Portus Piraeus is called at present by the Greeks Porte-Dracone, and by the Franks Porto-Lione,* 1.4 by reason of a Lion of Marble, of admi∣rable work, placed at the bottom of the Bay, in a posture of sitting, but erected upon his fore-feet. It is ten foot high, and by a hole pier∣ced through it, answering to its mouth, appears to have been a Foun∣tain. There is such another in the way from Athens to Eleusis, in a

couchant posture. Our French old and new Athens told us of a third in the Castle, which we could have no account of, unless he took the fore part of an Horse, placed on the top of the Northern Wall, for a Lion. By occasion of this, my Comrade telleth a strange Story, viz. Of a Monster, supposed to have been caused by an impression made up∣on the Phantasie of the Woman that bare it, by a sudden view of it. I do not remember that I was present at the relation, yet because e∣steem the thing a matter of more than ordinary curiosity, I shall not pass it by. It happened in the month of October, in the Year of our Lord 1665. that a Turkish Woman was Delivered of it, in the Citadel, after she had gone with it nine months, as of a Child. So soon as it was brought into the world it leap'd down on the ground, began to go, and make a hideous noise, resembling somewhat the barking of a Dog. It had Ears standing upright like a Hares, and his Chaps like a Lion; its Eyes sparkled, and had two great Teeth sticking out of its Mouth; its Feet like a Child, but the Fingers of its Hands rather resembled the Claws of Birds of prey; and its Sex scarce discernable. The Veivode and Caddi, hearing of it, came to make their Inspection three days af∣ter its Birth, and presently gave Sentence of Death against it; com∣manding they should dig a great hole in the ground, and throw the Monster into it; and after that fill up the place again with Stones: which was done upon the Eight of October. A French Chirurgion, cal∣led Monsieur Fanchon, who lived then at Athens, desired to have the Body, that he might Embalm it, and send it into France: But it was denyed him; the Turks affirming, That it was a Devil; and that the memory of it ought to perish with it; insomuch that he was forbidden to come near the place where it was buried.

The mouth of Porto-Lione is so narrow that two Gallies can hardly enter in a-breast; having a little Rock, that appears like a heap of Stones, above water, just in the entrance: But within, it enlargeth it self into a considerable Harbour, with depth enough, and good Anchorage all over; except a little Bay at the utmost point of it: which seems to have been formerly a small Harbour for Barques; though now choaked up. But that which I judge most considerable is, that the nature of the place is such, that though a Ship should happen to be driven upon the shore, yet it may get off again without damage. Which was tried not long since by five English Ships, who riding there by force of a terri∣ble Storm, had all their Cables broken in one night; and though they were driven to the shore, received no harm at all besides. The Anci∣ents tell, That it was capable of receiving four hundred Vessels: But by our best observation, we could scarce judge it capable of holding more than forty, or fifty of the great Ships of our times. Along the Shore, on the East-side of it, one may perceive some Foundations of Walls, and Ruins: And near to the street, at the mouth, the Founda∣tions of two square Towers, over against each other. Near to the first was the Tomb of Themistocles, that made the Athenian Port. But whe∣ther it were that great Stone Sepulcher we saw a little further of, near to some Caves cut out of the Rock, we could not determine. Near the mouth of the Port, we were shewed a Well, among the Rocks, con∣taining very good fresh water, notwithstanding it is not above ten yards

from the Sea. The Town that was here in former times, is now utterly ruined, and deserted, with all the admirable Portico's, and Edifices, Pausanias describeth. The only Building that now remaineth is a kind of Ware-house, to receive Merchandises, to gather the Customs and Taxes; and where the Veivode, for the most part, layeth up his Velania, to sell to the Merchants.

••••om Porto-Lione they count it five miles to Athens, whence, in old time, it had a wall, which from the length was called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. It was destroyed by Syllae; but the Foundations thereof are yet seen in many places, lying in a streight line, as we observed returning again to the Town: which we did, most part of the way, through woods of Olive-Trees and Vineyards. Now, no more the street of Piraea as in Pausanius his time. About mid-way the Consul shewed us a Well, which Mon∣sieur Guilitier takes to be the Fountain, near unto which Socrates had a Temple dedicated unto him. There was another Wall also, which reached from Athens to Phalera: so that Phalera, Munichia, and Pi∣raea, with all that Peninsula, on which they stood, was joyned anciently to the City.

III.

The next fair weather that came,* 1.5 we went to visit the Isle Colouri, of old time Salavis. To go to it we left the way to Eleusia on our right hand, as soon as we were out of the Town; and about a mile or two further, we came to the Wood of Olives; through which we passed, by a place called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, where they dig a reddish and fat Earth, which they make Tiles and Pots of; and is, in all likelyhood, the place where the ancient Town Keramaea once stood: taking from the Potters trade both its old name and new. Near unto this Town was the famous Aca∣demia, from which all other places, celebrated for the liberal Sciences and Learning, have borrowed the name of Academy. Nevertheless, fa∣mous as it hath been, and is still in great renown, yet is the memory of it here utterly rased out, and its situation so obscurely marked and set out by ancient Writers, that it hath been almost an insuperable dif∣ficulty to determine where it was. Some have placed it in the way to Capo Colouni, from Suidas his calling it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, an high place: there being none such in this way, but only in that. Wherefore I was much of that opinion also: But my Comrade shewed me my error; be∣lieving that Suidas might have some other reason for his calling it a high place, than that which I thought of: And it seems very probable to have been only from the Tower that was there, from which they be∣gan their Races, they ran with lighted Torches in the Panathenian Games. Moreover it is plain by that passage in Cicero, that Ceramica, was but six Stadia from the gate Dipylon; called in times more ancient, Porta Thriasia, because it led to the Town Thria, which was most certain∣ly towards Eleusis,* 1.6 behind the Hill Corydalis. And it is no less certain out of ancient Authors, that Ceramicus and Academia were together, six Stadia from Athens, either upon, or nigh unto, the Eleusinian Road. But there is now nothing remaining of it, save only a small Church, hard by, which seems to be built out of more ancient ruins; among

which are some Inscriptions: and they call the place about it Palaeo-Chori, that is, Old-Towm.

Having passed through the Olive-yards, about a mile further, we left an old Tower, a little way to the left hand. My Companion stepp'd to it, and finding several Inscriptions upon Sepulchral Pillars, he copied them: and so we came at last to the end of the plain, to the Sea-shore; where Mount Corydalis, running with its Western point a little into the Sea, makes the Promontory Amphialia, about six or seven miles from Athens. Between this Promontory and Salamina is a Streight, which is not a mile over in the narrowest part, where we passed it over by a Ferry, attending there for Passengers.

Salamis is now called Colouri; and, as our Consul esteems it, is about fifty Miles in compass. It hath a Harbour on the West-side, eight Miles in length, and three Miles broad in the largest space. It is of an Ovael Figure; and, at the bottom of its Bay, hath a Town of the same name with the present name of the Island, viz. Colouri. This Town, at pre∣sent, consists of about an hundred and fifty poor Cottages, and perhaps of four hundred Persons. There are two other Villages in the Island; the one situate upon a Hill, on the South-side of the Harbour, about five or six Miles off, and in sight of Colouri; and is called Metropis. The other called Ambelachi, is situated near the Streight towards Athens: They consist of about thirty Houses apiece. The antient City Salamis was, by this last, remov'd a little more to the Sea-side; where it had a little Harbour: in which, at this day, appear many antient Foundations under Water, of carved Stone; and, according to the appearance of Ruins all thereabouts, the City ought to have been near four Miles a∣bout. Near the Ruins of an antient Temple, we found these Lines on a black Marble Stone, which hath the antient name ΣΑΛΑΜΙΝΑ, Sa∣lamis, engraven on it.

ΝΙΚΟΚΛΗΣ ΗΓΗΣΙΠΠΟΥ ΑΝ ΑΓΥΡΑΣΙΟΣ
ΕΙΚΟΝΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΕ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ ΝΙ.....ΜΩΝ ΠΑ∣ΤΡΟΣ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ
ΑΘΑΝΑΤΟΙΣΙ ΘΕΟΙΣ ΚΟΣΜΩΝ ΙΕΡΑΝ ΣΑΛΑ∣ΜΙΝΑ

That is, Nicocles, Son of Hegesippus of Anagyra.

NI.... Perhaps, Nicocles erected this Statue of his Father to the Immortal Gods, adorning holy Salamis.

This Island was the Kingdom of Valiant Ajax, and this was the chief City of it. Ajax was then so powerful, as Homer testifies, that he fur∣nished a dozen Sail of Ships, to joyn with the rest of the Navy of Greece, in the Trojan War. This Island, in after-times, was much con∣tended for between the Athenians and Megarians; but to whom soever of right it belonged, the Megarians were forced to submit to, and ac∣quiesce

quiesce in the Conquest of it, by their more powerful Neighbours, the Athenians.

We saw and copied several other Inscriptions, and a little Basso-relievo I found masoned in the Wall of an old Church; which I prevailed with the Pappa to remove, and is one of the three I described at Athens. Sala∣mis hath many high Rocks and Cliffs: but withal several fruitful Val∣leys, running between them, which bear good store of Wheat and Bar∣ley. Of the Pine-trees on the Hills, they make good store of Pitch; and of the Lentiscus Wood growing there in good plenty, they make Soap∣ashes. So that with these Commodities, and their Fishing, the Inhabi∣tants make shift to get a poor Living; Athens being their Market for all.

Above the Village Colouri,* 1.7 is a high cragged Rock; upon which, a∣mong other Plants, I gathered a kind of Medica; which creepeth on the Ground, and is beset with Leaves growing close to the Stalk, something like Kidney-Vetches; every Stalk being set with them, three, four, five, and sometimes six upon a Stalk, covered with a Silver Hoariness. The Flowers follow in little Tufts, of five or fix golden-colour'd Blossoms; these are succeeded by crooked flat Cods, like a Half-Moon, and not much unlike to Gerard's Trifolium lunatâ siliquâ, pag. 1217. It agreeth well enough with his Description, but not with his Figure; for the Leaves of this are not snipped at the Edges, as his. Monsieur Merchant called it Auricula muris Camerarii. There is another somewhat like to this; but the Leaves of it are shorter, and broader than the other. The ••••••wers grow five or six together, close to a creeping Stalk; each followed with a large Husk, swelled like a Bladder, of a shining Silver∣colour; which, when the Blossom is past, swells bigger: but what Cod it makes, I saw not. I gathered there also in the Fields, a little kind of Iris, or Flag, bearing a pretty white Flower, about a handful high from the Ground; and the Leaves no broader nor longer, than the ordina∣ry Grass.

About Salamis we observed several other little Islands;* 1.8 as between the Streight, and Porto-Lione, a desart one, called now Lipsocatalia; but by Strâbo, Psytalia. Beyond the Streight, towards Eleusis, are two other little Rocks, or Islands close together; the one called Megala Kira, and the other Micra Kira: On one of these it was, called antiently also Ke∣ra, that Xerxes built a Silver Throne, to sit and see the Battle fought between his and the Grecian Fleet; the Issue whereof was, That the Greeks handled his great and numerous Navy so, that in the end he hardly escaped himself in a small Boat. We contented our selves with the sight of the rest of the Islands in the Saronick Gulph, by viewing them from the Attick Shore. But our good Friend, the Consul, who had of∣ten visited them, gave us also a more particular Account of them; by the help of which, and our own Observation, we are enabled to give a more exact Account of it, than any hath been yet published: which I think very proper to insert in this Place; because the whole Saronick Gulph is so frequently mentioned in antient History.

This Gulph is contained within the Promontory Sunium, now called Capo Colonni, on the Attick Shore, and Schillaeum, now Capo Skillo, on the Morean, of Peloponnesian Shore; which I suppose to be about two

or three and twenty Miles distant from each other, by the Observations I have made as well upon Mount Hymettus, as the Promontory Sunium; and by the same Proportion from the Entrance to the bottom of the Gulph, to the Isthmus, is about fifty five Miles. There are many little Islands in this Gulph; but the principal are Aegina, Colouri, and Porus: and these only are inhabited. They had in times past a Veivode, and Caddi common to them all: But of late they have thought good to make an Agreement with the Captain Basha, and to pay him yearly se∣ven hundred eighty five Dollers for all their Duties: By which means they are left to themselves; and might grow Rich again, did not the Corsairs haunt them so much. For they have Ground enough to culti∣vate for so few Inhabitants.

Aegina is now the chief Island,* 1.9 and giveth Name at present to the whole Gulph, as the River Saron did in times past. It continues its an∣tient Name still among the Greeks, although our Seamen corruptly Tcall it Engia. Its highest Point from the Promontory Sunium, is seen West-North-West. From Mount Hymettus South-West by West; and from Colouri, or Salamis, it lieth almost South. It is counted eighteen Miles from the nearest Shore of Attica, and twenty five from Porto-Lione, and about a dozen from the Morea; being about thirty Miles also in Circum∣ference. It hath no Harbour for Ships about it: But towards the Mo∣rean Shore, between the little Islands Angostri, Douronist, Moni,* 1.10 and it self, the Venetian Armada often dropped Anchor, during the War of Candia. It hath no City, or Village now in it, save only that which is called by the same Name, with the Island Aegina: which, in the Year One thousand, six hundred, fifty four, was almost ruined by the Vene∣tians; who came hither with their Ships, and, as they say, took away no fewer than six hundred poor Christian Greeks, and put them to row in their Gallies. The Town consists of about eight hundred dwelling Houses, but now almost ruined. The Castle lieth above it, and is remark∣able for little, but the fair Prospects it affords into all Parts round about it. For from hence many of the Islands of the Archipelago are discove∣red, and the whole Attick and Morean Shore. In this Castle are six Ci∣sterns, and about fourscore Houses; two Churches, joyn'd near toge∣ther; one for the Greeks, the other for the Latines: in which last remains a fine Sepulcher of Marble, made for a Venetian Proveditor; being a Mark of the Dominion they had over it. The Remains of its Antiquity, are the Ruins of two Temples: The one, situate North-West of the Town, ought to be that of Venus, mentioned by Pausanias. It hath but two Pillars now standing, and a piece of an Architrave on them, with some Rubbish below. The other is on the other side of the Isle towards Athens, four Miles from the Town, in a Wood, upon a Hill. This is thought to be that Temple, which Aeacus, the first King of the Island, dedicated to Jupiter. It hath yet twenty one Pillars standing, with their Architraves on them, and many others lying on the Ground. They are of the Dorick Order, chanelled, twenty two foot and an half long; the Architrave thirteen foot and an half long, and about three broad. By the Order of placing them, there ought to have been fifty in num∣ber, standing at a pace and an half distance from each other.

Aegina hath great Plenty of Corn, Cotton, Honey, and Wax; also a∣bundance

bundance of Almonds, and Keratia, or Carobs. It abounds so with a sort of red-legg'd Partridges, that by order of the Epitropi, or the chief Magistrates of the Town, all, both Young and Old, Women and Chil∣dren, go out yearly, as the Pigmies of old did against the Granes, to war with them, and to break their Eggs before they be hatch'd; other∣wise, by their Multitudes, they would so destroy, and eat up the Corn, that they would inevitably bring a Famine every year upon the Place. But they say, There are no Hares at all in this Island.

Porus is situated near the Shore of the Morea,* 1.11 between Aegina and the Promontory Schillaeum: It is about eighteen miles in compass, and is inhabited only by the Albaneses; who have most of their Goods a Shore in the Morea. This Island was antiently called Calabrea, and is no∣ted for the Banishment of Demosthenes to it; where he afterwards poi∣soned himself, to avoid the Fury of Antipater.

The Situation of the rest of the Islands is as followeth, beginning at Promontorium Sunium, or Capo Colonni; and so coasting along the Attick Shore, Westwards.

The first is a little Desart Island,* 1.12 called now Guidronisa, or The Isle of Asses, hard by Capo Colonni, South-Westwards. It was heretofore cal∣led Patroclea, and is still by some. Here groweth yet some quantity of the Eliane-Wood; for which the Place is so famous, that it hath gained a third Name by some upon that Account; being call'd by them Eba∣nonisi, as the Consul affirmed. But the Wood thereof is now much spoi∣led by the Corsairs. I would have gone to search further concerning it, when I was at Capo Colonni; but I could get no Barque to go over.

Further is an Island, called now, if my Book be right marked, Be∣noni. I believe, it may be that, which was called, in times past, Belbina. And yet, a good way further, near Lambra, formerly Lampra, there is a Bay; which I judge to have been, in antient times, Hyphormius Por∣tus, and the Promontory that makes it, Astipalia: where there is ano∣ther little Island, called Elisso; which probably may be that Strabo names Eleussa. Four or five Miles further, near to a Promontory, which de∣scends from Mount Hymettus into the Sea, called antiently Zoster, there are five little Islands together, Combonissa, the Buttons, and, as the Con∣sal's Druggerman noted them to me, Halicas or Selicas, the Salt-Pits; but I suppose this Name belongs rather to the Promontory, with a ruin∣ed Church upon it, bearing the Name of Hagio Cosmo. There is ano∣ther little Island called La Flega, I believe the same that Strabo calls Phaura.

Lipsocotalia followeth, between Porto-Lione and Colour••. This is a little Island; but, contrary to what is said but now of Aegina, so abound∣ing with Hares, that they dye here of mere Age, for want of Hunt∣ing. The reason is, For that the Turks will not venture thither to hunt, fearing the Pyrates that infest those Seas; and the Greeks, poor Christians! have not leisure, from the labour of getting their living, to attend to such sports.

Colouri follows, between which and the Shore of the Plain of Eleu∣sis, are the two little Rocks, mentioned before, almost joined together, called Megala Kira and Micra Kira. Turning along the Shore of Megara and Colouri, at the entrance of the Harbour of Colouri, are two other

little Islands; the one called Canaki, and the other Prasouli; because there groweth a sort of Leeks they call so. Further on, between Co∣rinth and Aegina, are five little Islands, one called Hagio Thoma, ano∣ther Diaporia, another Hebraeo, another Hagio Jani, and the other Pla∣tonisi, because it is low and flat. There are hereabouts dispersed several other Scoglio's, or Rocks appearing out of the Sea, without any name. Between Aegina and Colouri there is an Island called Laousa, and by it four small Scoglio's. Between Aegina and the Morea are the little Islands, Angistri, Metopi, Dorousa, and Moni, as I said. From Aegina towards Capo Schillo, are, first, two small Islands, called Cophinidia, which signifie Baskets: Then Porus, a bigger Island; and near the Promontory are two little Scoglio's, called The Chevines: according as you may see them set down in the Map I have given of those Parts of Greece which I vi∣sited.

IV.

After this we resolved to take another journey, to see Eleusis,* 1.13 Me∣gara, the Isthmus, and Corinth at least, since we could not compass to see the Morea all over. We therefore made an agreement with an ho∣nest Fellow, Monsieur Giraud used to employ, to be our Agiati or Guide, called Jani; who furnished us with three Horses for ten Timins a day, that is, about three Shillings Six-pence English Money, he him∣self finding them Meat. He was an admirable Fellow for our purpose, following us always on foot; and if he saw any old Church or Build∣ing near the way, he would presently run to it, to see if he could find any Inscription, or other mark of Antiquity upon it: which if he did, he would immediately call out to us, Scrittione, Scrittione. He was so used to his work both by the Consul and us, that he seldom made us lose out labour. If he saw any Flower or Plant that he thought was not com∣mon, he would not fail to gather it, and bring it to me; saving me often the labour of lighting from my Horse, to gather those I observed my self. And he did indeed so accommodate himself to our curiosity, that we had all the reason in the World to be well satisfied with him, who ser∣ved us so well, Our Consul also was so kind to us as to lend us his Druggerman, armed with his Barrat, or Licence, from the Grand Seignior, to secure us against Examinations, and other hazards we might meet with from the Turks, and was so civil as to accompany us himself as far as Eleusis.

Thus on Shrove Tuesday in the Morning, being the 5^th of February 1675/6, directing our course North-Westwards from Athens, we passed a∣gain the Olive-yards, leaving the way to Colouri on the left hand. In an hour and halfs riding over the Plain of Athens, we began to ascend the Hill now called Daphne, from the abundance of Oleanders that grow there, they call Picra-Daphne, or Bitter Laurel. This Hill begins in the way from Thebes to Athens, and ends at the Promontory, that makes the Streight between Salamis and it. It is divided by this way into two high Points, whereof that towards the Sea was undoubtedly that which Strabo calls Coridalis mons; the other, Thucydides calls Aegalis. Moun∣ting between these two tops of the Hill, in half an hour we came to an

antient Convent of Caloyers, seated between the Ridges on it, called also Daphne. It is about half way to Eleusis; and founded, as they say, by the fair penitent Magelone. 'Tis fenced with high Walls about it; but for all that, it is so infested by the Turks and Corsairs, that there is seldom found above one or two Caloyers in it; the rest being retired commonly to an Hermitage up higher, among the Rocks of the Mountain. For it is a great Road that way to the Morea, and consequently haunted by the unruly Turks passing that way; and the Corsairs often visit it, be∣cause it is within half an hours riding to the Sea-side. The Church here is dedicated to the most holy Virgin, and hath been a Fabrick, very beautiful, having a large Cuppalo in the middle of it, encrusted within with antient Mosaick Work; of which the Picture of our Saviour is yet re∣maining. Without the Gate is a Well of very good fresh Water; from whence we descended between the two Ridges of the Hill; and in less than half an hour came to the Sea-side. Whence, winding about the Bay, which from Porto-Lione, and the Streight of Salamis runneth in Northwards, we came to a little Lake of Salt, and Bituminous Water; running out into the Sea by a little Stream, called by Pausanias, Scirus. The Lake seems to be the Rhaeti alvei, mentioned by Pausanias to be the antient Bounds between the Athenians and Eleusinians; not between Attica and Eleusis, as either the Interpreter, or Printer of Pausanias mi∣stakes. There is a Hill also North of it, which had a Town on it, and both called Scirus.

A little further we came to the River Cephisus, which then was but a little Stream; but after Rains, and melting of the Snow from the Mountains, it swells so big, that it overflows a good part of the Plains. It comes down from the Mountain Parnes-ward, and from those towards the Eleutherians, and Mount Cithaeron. It is now called only Palaeo-milo, from an old Mill, that stood there in times past: But now nothing re∣mains of it, save only the Pool that poured in the Water. But higher it hath yet some Mills under the Mountain Daphne; along the foot whereof it keeps its Course. This is that Cephisus, Pausanias mentions; which must not be any ways confounded with that, Strabo speaks of; which runneth West of the City of Athens; which some, by mistake, call Eridanus: of which, elsewhere. There is another Cephisus in Boe∣otia, that empties it self into the Lake Copais; and at Sycion another, that falls into the Gulph of Gorinth, now called the Gulph of Lepanto. On this side of the Eleusinian Cephisus,* 1.14 as Pausanias well distinguisheth it from the other, was the Sepulcher of Theodorus, a famous Tragedian; and on the Banks of it were the Statutes of Mnesitheus, and his Son, who consecrated the Hair of his Head to the River Cephisus; being the Cu∣stom of the Greeks in those days, to make that Offering to the Rivers, they esteemed their Gods.

Having passed the Stream, we continued our way over a spacious Plain, along a Causway, paved with large Stones, which then was beau∣tified with Anemonies of all sorts of Colours, mixed and shaded between White and Scarlet, and between a deep Blue and White. This was cal∣led the Via Sacra in antient times, from the great Processions made by the Athenians unto the sacred Mysteries of Ceres at Eleusis. We obser∣ved many Ruins, as we went along it, of Churches or Temples; especi∣ally

one, about some two Miles beyond the River; which we judg'd to be that of the Cyamites, so called, as Pausanias thinketh, from some Hero of that Name, who first taught them to sow Beans there: For 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 signifies a Bean.

About a Mile further we saw the Ruins of another Temple, of which one Panel of Wall was only standing, of a greyish-colour'd Sone; which we therefore judg'd might be some Temple of Venus, which Pausanias saith, was of ordinary Stone.

Just at the Ruins of Eleusis, is a little Church, dedicated to S^t George; which hath standing about it some beautiful Pillars, chanelled, and of the Ionick Order, as I knew by their Chapters, which lay not far off from thence. Before it are two great round Stones, either for the Basis to Pillars, or Pedestals for Statues, with Inscriptions on each of them; but much defaced. This, without doubt, was the Temple of Diana Pro∣pylaea; so called, because her Temple was situate without the Gates of the City Eleusis. One of these Inscriptions speaks of one Nicostrata, Daughter of Meneo..... of the Town Berenicida, initiated into the Mysteries of Ceres and Proserpina: For I take 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 to signify Proserpi∣na, the Daughter of Ceres.

ηΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΞΑΡΕΟΠΑΓΟΥ χΠυ Π....
δηΜΟΣ ΝΙΚΟΣΤΡΑΤΗΝ ΜΕΝΝΕΟ.......
βΕΡΝΕΙΚΙΔΟΥ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ ΜΥΗΘΕΙΣΑΝ.....
ΑΦΕΣΤΙΑΣ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕ
ΕΠΙΜΕΛΗΘΕΝΤΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΑΝΑΘΕΣΙΑΩΣ
ΤΟΥ ΕΠΙΤΡΟΠΟΥ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΑΙΟΥ
ΚΑΣΙΟΥ ΣΗΜΑΚΙΔΟΥ

Thus, in about four Hours time from Athens, we arrived at Eleusis,* 1.15 now called Lepsina, or Lephsina. Eleusis was heretofore a City of great Antiquity; and in those early times, vied with the Athenians for Em∣pire, until it was reduced by Theseus. In the most flourishing times of Athens, it was one of their principal Towns; but is now crushed down under their hard Fortune; having been so ill treated by the Christian Pirats, more inhuman than the very Turks, that all its Inhabitants have left it; there being now nothing remaining, but Ruins. The Place is situated upon a long Hill, stretched out near to the Sea, South-East and North-West, not far distant from the foot of the Mountain Gerata. The whole Hill seems to have been built upon; but chiefly towards the Sea: Where the first thing we came unto,* 1.16 was the stately Temple of Ceres, now laid prostrate on the Ground: I cannot say, not having one Stone upon another; for it lieth all in a confused heap together: the beautiful Pillars buried in the Rubbish of its dejected Roof and Walls; and its goodly carved and polished Cornishes, used with no more re∣spect, than the worst Stone of the Pavement. It lies in such a rude and disorderly manner, that it is not possible to judge of its antient Form; only it appear'd to have been built of most beautiful white Marble, and no less admirable Work. Some Chapters we saw of the Ionick Order, being three foot, nine inches and an half Diameter; which belonged to Pillars of two foot, and eleven inches Diameter. I took the Dimensi∣ons

of a very beautiful Corner-Stone likewise; being six foot, five inches square, two foot, one inch, and a quarter thick. We observed many other large Stones among them, carved with Wheat-ears, and bundles of Poppy, bound together, being the Characters of Ceres.

[illustration]

Simulacri Cereris Eleusiniae fragmentu Lib: VI

Hard by, a little more South-West, among the Ruins of old Walls, we found the Remains of the Goddess her self; viz. a part of her Sta∣tue from the Head to below the Waste, made of very white Marble, of admirable Work, and perhaps of no less a Master, than Praxiteles him∣self, as that was in her Temple at Athens. It is a Colossus, at least three times bigger than Nature. She is girt about the Waste, and two Belts cross each other on her Shoulders. Her Breasts appear very natural; but her Face is disfigured. Her Hair falleth back upon her Shoulders, and is tied together near her Neck. Upon her Head is a Basket, carved on the out-side with clusters of Wheat-ears, bundles of Poppies, Roses and Vessels. For it is she, that was said first to have taught the Grecians how to sow Corn at Eleusis; and Poppies were dedicated to her. Pansanias pretends to be forbidden to write of her Mysteries, by a Dream; it be∣ing held unlawful for any to hear, see, or know them, but those that were initiated in them: and none to reveal them. But Minutins Foelix knew them, and shews them to have been horribly wicked, and Diabo∣lical; which was the Reason of their Secresie. I designed the Statue per∣haps well enough, to give some rough imperfect Idea of it; but not to express the exquisite Beauties of the Work. A little higher on the Brow of the Hill we found a large Basis for a Statue, which we judg'd to belong to that of the Goddess. There was written upon it only ΝΟΥ ΝΙΓΡΕΙΝΟΣ ΙΕΡΟΚΗΡΥΞ Noumilius Nigrinus, Priest; which, perhaps, was the Name of him that erected the Statue. But that which

[illustration]

Lib. VI. Basis Simusacri Cereris Eleusinioe p. 429

is most remarkable about it, is a small Basso-relievo, representing the Pro∣cession of Ceres, used to be made by the Athenians, in Memory of her going about the World, in search of her Daughter Proserpina, stollen by Pluto, after she had lighted her Torches at Mount Aetna. The whole multitude carry Flambeau's, they called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; and to them be∣longed Officers, whom they call'd 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; being, I suppose, the chief Regulators of that Ceremony, as in this Inscription.

ΑΡΞΑΝΤΟΣ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΩ.....
ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΣΩΣΠΙΔΟΣ ΔΑ.....
ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΛΥΣΙΛΛΟΥ ΔΑ......
ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΛΕΩΝΙΔΟΥ ΔΑΔΟΥΧΟΥ
ΣΥΝΚΛΗΤΙΚΩΝ ΑΝΕΘ......
ΕΝΝΕΑ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΟ.....
ΔΙΑ ΒΙΟΥ ΔΙΠΛΩ ΤΩ Π....
ΛΟΓΙΣΤΗΝ ΚΑΤΑ ΠΕ.....
ΕΠΙΔΑΥΡΙΟΙΣ ΧΑΙΡΩ
ΚΟΡΩΝΕΥϹΙ ΘΗΒΑ......
ΤΗΣ ΤΕ ΑΛΛΗΣ ΑΡΕΤΗϹ

Here we found other Inscriptions also; some upon Stones above Ground, and in the Walls of old Churches; others we found almost bu∣ried in the Ground, and digg'd them out: For we carried a Mattock, and a Spade, usually from Athens with us. Some are Dedications to the Goddesses, Ceres and Proserpina; some to the Emperours, as Marcus Aurelius; which, for Brevities sake, I shall omit; only I shall add this belonging to the Deities of this, as pertinent to the Illustration of it.

ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗΙ
Η ΙΕΡΑ ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΝ
ΛΙΘΟΦΟΡΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΔΕΚΤΟΝ
ΠΙΣΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΥ ΚΕΦΑΛΗΘΕΝ
ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΣΑΝΤΑ ΠΡΟΙΚΑ
ΤΙΜΗΘΕΝΤΑ ΔΕ ΥΠΟ ΘΕΟΥ
ΚΟΜΜΟΔΟΥ ΤΗ ΡΩΜΑΙΩΝ
ΠΟΛΕΙΤΕΙΑ ΑΡΞΑΝΤΑ ΤΟΥ
ΚΗΡΥΚΩΝ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΑΡΞΑΝ
ΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑΣ
ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΑΣ ΕΝΕΚΑ
ΑΤΤΙΚΟΣ ΕΥΔΟΞΟΝ ΣΦΗΤΤΙΟΣ ΕΠΟΙΗΣΕΝ

While my Companion and I were thus busied, our Curiosities were sur∣prized on a sudden with the noise of two Guns going off. I presently ran to the next convenient place to look down at, to see what the mat∣ter was; which I had no sooner done, but saw Mouratis, our Drugger∣man, lie sprauling as kill'd. I quickly call'd to my Companion, and told him we were beset by the Corsairs, or Rogues. He thought I jested; but I assured him, I saw Mouratis lie kill'd, as I thought. Where the Con∣sul

was I could not tell; but we hasted to his Rescue, either to save him, or lose our Lives with him. So with all the expedition the Rocks and Ruins would give us leave, we ran to the Place; where we found the Consul rubbing Mouratis, to bring him to Life again: of whom, af∣ter we had shaken off our surprize, we understood the matter to be no more than being employed about providing us some Meat, they started a Hare just by them; which, as soon as they saw, our Guide took my Fowling-piece, and Mouratis a short Carbine, with a large Bore, charg∣ed with four Bullets, and shot at her. But the Carbine having been charg∣ed some days before, and perhaps with a greater quantity of Powder than was fit, in the Discharge, the Piece recoiled so, that it felled him down backward, and struck all the Breath out of his Body. When he came to himself, it was a good while before we could learn of him what was the matter; and then he could hardly be perswaded, but that he had broken some of his Ribs. But Jani, who had in vain run after the Hare, returning, gave us a more particular Account of the Accident, and made us content, that the poor Hare had escaped us, as well as we the danger we feared. It happened at the same time, some Athenians coming that way from Corinth, hearing the Guns go off, and seeing three or four Men of us traversing those Ruins, were frighted as much as we; and concluding us to be Corsairs, lying there in ambush, to rob and do Mis∣chief, ran away as hard as they could drive, and hid themselves in the Woods not far off: Where, having staid a pretty while, and beginning to doubt, whether they might not be mistaken, and their Fear ground∣less, sent out a little Boy as their Scout, to discover what we were; who coming nearer to us, happened to know some of us: Upon which he re∣turn'd, and shewed his Company their mistake. So having comforted Mouratis, as well as we could, causing him to drink a large draught of Wine; after Dinner we set forward again on our Journey, being very glad that we came off so well; and blessing God, that this once he suf∣fered us to fear, where no fear was. Our way lying along under the North-side of the Hill, where Eleusis stood, as we went we observ'd the Ruins of an Aqueduct, that came in a streight Line from the Mountains North of Eleusis; and amongst an heap of Rubbish, the Trunk of a Statue, without either Hands or Feet; which having removed, we found to be of a Sheep, dedicated to Ceres by the Megarians in antient times. The whole way was then covered with Anemonies of several Colours, and wonderfully beautiful. After a Miles riding, we turned about the Corner of the Hill to the left hand; and between that, and the Foot of the Mountain, we came to a Spring, which we believed was the Place, where Ceres sate her self down, when she arrived at Eleusis, weary with the fruitless search after her Daughter Proserpina. They called it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; that is, Floridus. It hath but a small Stream running from it; and I question, whether it be not lost, before it comes into the Sea, in its Pas∣sage through the Valley, between Eleusis, and the Mountain Gerata; which Valley, I suppose, was that antiently called Rharius; where they held, that the first Wheat was sown by Ceres Direction. The Valley is not above two or three Miles compass; but looks, as it were a Place both fruitful, and well cultivated. But the Plain of Lepsina, or Eleusis, which lieth between Eleusis, and the Mountain Daphne, is about seven

or eight Miles long Westwards, and three or four broad from the Sea Northwards; is not so well tilled, but abounds with those Oaks they make Vellania of: But Northwards, towards the Mountains, it is covered with Woods of Pines.

At this Fountain we parted with our Consul; and soon after began to climbe up the Mountain Gerata, by a way so ill, that we spent in go∣ing up, and coming down, from before two a Clock till after Sun-set. This Mountain is called now Gerata, as well as in antient times Kerata,* 1.17 from two piked Rocks on the top; which shew like two Horns. On one of them is a Tower, called now Gerata-pyrga.* 1.18 I observed much of the Herba Terribilis growing upon this Mountain, and of that Thorney Spurge I before mentioned; whereof I plucked up a young Root, which was long, and almost Bulbous; but hollow, and full of Milk. After this we passed through a plain for about an hour, and brought Night with us to Megara, and lodged at a Greek's House,* 1.19 where we were like to be choak't with Smoak; not could we have been accommodated a∣ny where better in the Town, as we were told. For Chimnies are not in fashion with them. The only way for the Smoak to go out, is either at the Door, or at a Hole made in the top of the Room. There is a Kan indeed belonging to the Town; but so ill kept, that there is no Lodging in it. The next day we spent in seeing the Place, and search∣ing for its Antiquities.

This Place hath preserved its antient Name, Megara; and is situated in a Valley, between the Mountain Kerata North, which hath a Ridge running North-Westwards, to joyn with Mount Cithaeron, at the Bot∣tom of a Bay of the Corinthian Gulph, called now Livadostro. The whole Mountain is called vulgarly Macriplai, or the Long Mountain. Westwardly, towards Corinth, the Plain is bounded with the Mountain, called now Palaio bouni, or the Old Mountain; and antiently Gerania; the Gulph of Engia, or the Saronick, South-Eastwards, and the Bay Livadostro North-Westwards. This Territory is not unfruitful, about it is twenty Miles compass; and was called in times past, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. The City was built upon two little Rocks, stretched out South, South-East, and West, North-West, about two Miles from the Shore of the Saro∣nick Gulph. It hath the Isle Egina in sight, South by East, and Colou∣ri South-East: The antient Bounds of it yet appearing, comprehend those two Rocks, and some part of the Plain Southwards. But now it is only built upon one of the Rocks, consisting of pitiful Cottages, whose Walls are sometimes only the broken Stones of her Ruins, or Clay dried in the Sun, covered only with Faggots, and those again spread over with Earth above them. They are built close together; but are only of one Story high; and may be about three or four hundred in num∣ber. In the middle of the Town, on the highest point of the Rock, is a Tower; where a Veivode lived, until the Corsairs came, and took him away: which hath ever since so skared the Turks, that they durst no longer stay there. So that they are now wholly without Turks in the Town. But the Christians that are, stand in such great fear of the Pirates, whether Turks, or Infidels, pretending to be Christians, that up∣on sight of every Boat in the day-time, and but hearing their Dogs bark in the night, they presently fall to packing up their few Goods, which

they hide as well as they can, and run away. Not long since the French Consul at Athens, made an Agreement between them and Crevelly, the chief of the Pirates of the Archipelago, to give him yearly an hundred and fifty Measures of Corn, to let them live in quiet. They get their living by tilling the Ground; for which they have half the Crop: The rest the Turks have, as their Landlords, under the Grand Signior. They also make Pitch, and saw out Planks and Boards out of the Pines, and Firrs, which grow in great abundance, on the Mountains about them. The Antiquities we observed here, were several fine Inscriptions.

ΣΑΒΕΙΝΑΝ ΒΑΣΙΛΙΣΣΑΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΗΝ ΝΕΑΝ ΔΗ∣ΜΗΤΡΑ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ
ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΑ ΠΑΜΦΥΛΟΙ ΥΠΟ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ∣ΜΕΙΛΕΙΑΝ ΙΟΥ
ΛΙΟΥ ΚΑΝ ΙΤΟΥ ΚΡΑΤΙΣΤΟΥ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ ΣΤΡΑ∣ΤΗΓΟΥΝΤΟΣ
..........ΑΙΣΧΙΩΝΟΣ ΤΟΥ ΔΑΜΟΚΡΑΤΟΥΣ

The first, as we entred into the Town, was of the Empress Sabina, Wife to Hadrianus, dedicated when Julius Canditus was Proconsul of Achaia, by the Pamphilians. But what Pamphilians these were, whether those of Asia minor, or the City of Macedonia, or of any other Town, not mentioned in these Parts, I determine not. They compliment Sabina, with the Title of New Ceres, ΝΕΑΝ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΑ. There is another of Herodes Atticus, of whom I have before spoken.

In the Walls, toward the Sea-side, at the left hand of the Gate, is the Foundation of a little square Building: At one side of which, are two great Stones; and between them was the Entrance into the Build∣ing. They seem to have had Statues set upon them, by the Marks where their Feet were fastened: And on the side is engraven a Catalogue of the several Athletick Games they were Victors in.

[illustration] map of Megara

MEGARA Lib: VI

ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ
ΕΝ ΠΕΙΣΗ
ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ
ΔΕΛΟΙΣ Β.
ΝΕΜΕΙΑ ΕΝΑΡ
ΓΕΙ Γ.
ΙΣΘΜΙΑ Β.
ΠΑΝΑΘΗΝΑΙΑ
ΕΝ ΑΘΗΝΑΙΣ Β.
ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ ΕΝ Α
ΘΗΝ ΑΙΣ
ΠΑΝΕΛΛΗΝΙΑ
ΕΝ ΑΘΗΝΑΙΣ
ΕΛΕΥΣΕΙΝΙΑ
ΕΝ ΑΘΗΝΑΙΣ Γ.
ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΑ ΕΝ ΘΗ
ΒΑΙΣ
ΤΡΟΦΩΝΕΙΑ
ΕΝ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΑ
ΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΕΙΑ
ΕΝ ΠΛΑΤΕΑΙΣ
ΤΗΝ ΕΥΖΑΡΤΗΣ
ΑΣΠΙΔΑ

ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ ΜΕΙ
ΛΗΤΩ
ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ ΜΑΓΝΗ
ϹΙΑ
ΚΟΙΝΑ ΑϹΙΑϹ ΕΝ
ΦΙΛΑΔΕΛΦΕΙΑ
ΑΚΤΙΑ ΕΝ ΝΕΙΚΟ
ΠΟΛΕΙ. Β.
ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ ϹΙΔΗ. Β.
ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ ΠΕΡΤΗ. Δ.
ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΝ ΘΕϹϹΑ
ΛΟΝΕΙΚΗ
ΑϹΚΛΕΠΙΔΕΙΑ ΕΝ
ΕΠΙΔΑΥΡΩ
ΚΑΠΗΤΩΛΙΑ ΕΝ ΡΩΜΗ
ΑΘΥΙΝΑϹ ΠΡΟΜΑΧΟΥ
ΕΝ ΡΩΜΗ. Δ.
ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΑ ΕΝ ΠΟΤΙΟ
ΛΟΙΣ
ϹΕΒΑΣΤΑ ΕΝ ΝΕΑΠΟΛΕΙ

I was of opinion, that it belong'd to some Gymnasium: But my Comrade said, It was a Sacellum, dedicated to some Great Heroes, expert in those Games: whose Names, although not written thereon; yet might, per∣haps, be engraven on some other Stone, on the Architrave of the Build∣ing. But Pausanias confirms me in my Opinion: For he speaks of an old Gymnasium by the Gate Nymphadia; which I believe to be this, by the Thread of his Discourse. For he cometh from the Market-place, by the way called the Streight-way;* 1.20 which was undoubtedly this. For it lieth as streight as possible to the Sea-side, to Nicaea. Not far thence is another great Stone, twelve foot long, with an Inscription up∣on it, in Honour of a Gymnasiarch, and a Grammarian, by the Senate and People.

η β{ou}λη ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ
...ΑΝ ΚΑΛΩΝΕΙΚΟΥ
...ΝΑΣΙΑΡΧΟΥΝΤΑ ΤΩ ΔΦΛΕΚΑ
...Ν ΚΑΙ ΕΚΑΤΟΣ ΤΟΝ ΕΤΟϹ ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟϹ
...ΚΑΛΛΕΝΕΙΚΟΝ ΝΟΜΙΑΔΑ
ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΥϹΑΝΤΑϹ ΓΥΜΝΑϹΑΡ
ΧΗϹΑΝΤΑ ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΛΗΜΟΣ
ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙΟΝ ΠΡΑΞΙΟΝΑ

On the same Stone is another Inscription of his Son, bearing the same Office; and another after that also, bearing the Decree of the Se∣nate and People; honouring Demetrius, Son of Praxion: and, I be∣lieve, the Statues of each of those Men, were placed upon each of these Inscriptions.

Thence we went down by the Streight-way to the Port; where, on a Rock by the Sea-side, are the Remains of Old Walls, I believe of some Fortress, belonging to the antient City Nicaea; which, in all probabili∣ty, stood there: And was built by Nisus, one of the four Sons of Pan∣dion; who, at his Death, divided his Kingdom of Attica into four parts, and gave Megaris to Nisus. About it, below, are the Remains of a do∣zen little old Churches; and therefore they call the Place Dodeca-Ecclesia, the Twelve Churches. But now there is not so much as one Church en∣tire, or dwelling House; no People, nor no Priest. This was the Port-Town of the Megarians; of which the two Rocks, which make the Harbour, were antiently called Minoa. Being return'd to Megara, we took our Horses, and went about three or four Miles Northward, to a ruined Town they call 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; that is, Old Town: where we found six or seven old Churches, built, as I conceive, out of the Ruins of some more antient Edifices; and in them some antient Inscriptions.

Q. CORTIO SALASSI L. POTHINO
EX TESTAMENTO ARBITRATV
THEOPHRASTI ET ..........
ANCELI L.

One in Latine, in memory of Quintus Curtius of Salassi, a City of Gal∣lia Cisalpina, or Piemont, as Ferrarius hath it: What Quintus Curtius this was, I shall not take upon me to determine.

Η ΒΟΥΛΗ
ΝΕΙΚΙΑΝ ΕΡΜΕΙΟΥ
ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣΑΝΤΑ
ΑΡΕΤΗϹ ΧΑΡΙΝ

There is another Inscription to the Memory of Nicias, the Son of Her∣mius; who, as Pliny testifies,* 1.21 was the first that invented the Trade of Fulling. The Stone shews, that he governed there. I believe, this Town was the antient Rhus, mentioned by Pausanias. I observed much Mandragora, or Mandrakes, growing in this Plain; it being then in Flower, and of a Purple or Violet colour.

2. Keratia, in great plenty; of which before.

[illustration]

Lib. VI. Astragali Species.

3. A kind of Astragalus; which Monsieur Merchant calleth Astra∣galus argentens; and doubts, whether it be not Astragalus Syriacus. It

was not then in its full growth; but hath a Root running deep in the Ground. The Leaves were set upon a long stem, small, and some∣thing like to that which is called Grecian Valerian; but covered over with a shining white, and hoary down. Among the Leaves I percei∣ved some Buds, not blown, but then of a light yellow colour; which, whether they change when blown, I know not: But their shape is like Bean-blossoms.

Next Morning,* 1.22 before it was light, we parted from Megara; that we might, if possible, reach Corinth the same day: For it is further from thence to Corinth, than it is from Athens thither, and the way worse. For not a Mile from Megara, we began to ascend the Mountain Palaio∣vouni, by the lower way. For there are two, the one over the top of the Mountain, and the other along the side of it. This hath a very deep precipice on the left hand, unto the Sea, and the Mountain a vast height above it; and is worthily called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Bad Way: For it is one of the worst I ever travell'd, for narrowness, raggedness, and danger of falling down, some a hundred Yards headlong into the Sea; which the least stumble of our Horses might easily effect. This way, in antient times, was famous for the Robber Sciron; who from thence threw head-long into the Sea, all such as he had robbed, until Theseus came; who was too hard for him, and justly made him taste the same Punishment he so barbarously had inflicted upon others, throw∣ing him into the Sea from a rocky Precipice: Whence it was antiently called Scironides rupes, or Scironiasaxa. The Road is at this time little less infested with the Ambuscades of Corsairs, than it was of old by that Thief. Turks themselves dread and tremble to go this way, when ne∣cessary occasions force them to it, for fear of these People; insomuch, that one Turk happening to be on this Road at the time we passed by, seeing us to be Francks, and knowing the English Druggerman that went with us, was glad to joyn himself to us, and for greater security, to pull off his Turbant, and make a Girdle of it, leaving only a red Skull-Cap upon his Head, like a Greek. This whole Mountain was called, in old time, Gerania; because Megarus escaped thither in Deucalion's Flood, being guided by the noise of Cranes, called in Greek 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; as I have elsewhere proved. It is a very high Mountain; of which these high Cliffs are but upon the side, a great way below the highest Point; though they themselves are of a great height from the Sea. As we passed along, I observ'd the Wind to precipitate it self strangely down from the top of the Mountain,* 1.23 into the Sea: some Blasts seeming to fall right down upon the Surface of the Water, and there to be divided three or four several ways, making the Waves to foam as it went. Sometimes I saw the Water agitated for several Furlongs round about, and in other parts smooth and calm at the same time, for a considerable while together; which was a Divertisement to us, while we passed along that dangerous Road. Much time we spent in scrambling up and down these Precipi∣ces; which done, we continued along the Shore under the Mountain, until we came to an antient Monument about mid-way from Megara to Corinth; being raised up three or four Yards from the Ground, and eight squard. About it lay several large Planks of Marble, some with Basso-relievd's upon them, and some without. One of which hath a Man

walking on foot, and a Horse passing by him the other way. Another hath a Figure in a lying Posture; but much defaced. Not far from hence the antient Cromium ought to have been situated; which was sometimes the Bounds between Attica and Peloponnesus: But whe∣ther this was the Pedestal to the Pillar, that King Theseus set up to be the Bounds between his Athenians, and the Peloponnesians, I dare not say; but rather think it was some Octogone Temple: For the Pillar should be further within the Isthmus, where the Isthmian Games were celebrated. It may well enough be that Temple of Apollo and Latona, which Pausanias speaks of, and placeth hereabouts.

From this antient Monument the plain Ground beginneth to enlarge it self, between the Mountain Palaio-vouni, and the Saronick Shoar; al∣though the Mountain and plain Ground considered together, rather be∣gins to grow narrow towards the narrowest Place of the Isthmus. It makes as much cultivable Ground, as the Plain of Megara; but it is utterly neglected, and uninhabited for fear of the Corsairs. This was that Spot of Ground, so much disputed for between the Athenians and Peloponnesians; and afterwards by the Megarians, and those of Corinth. Lauribegius calls it Smedis regio, and Heromelium.* 1.24 There is a small Ridge of a Hill, running along in the middle of it, that I should not have ta∣ken notice of, had not Thucydides put me in mind of it, calling it Mons Oneius, situate between the Port Cenchre and Cromium; which hindred that part of the Corinthian Army, left at Cenchre, from seeing how things pass'd at Cromium, with the other part of their Forces, who had joyned Battle with the Athenians, until by the Dust, that was rais'd in the Air, by means of the Engagement, they had notice thereof.* 1.25 Por∣tus Cenchraeus was in a Bay, which lieth below the Ruins of the Town Isthmus, and is yet called by that Name, Kenchre; which they pro∣nounce Chencri. Hereabouts the Isthmus is not above four or five Miles over from one Sea to the other. But nearer to Corinth there is a Village, they call Hexmillia, because there the Isthmus is six Miles over.* 1.26 We were here shewed the Place, where in antient time they began to cut a Chanel through the Isthmus, to joyn the two Seas together: But were forbidden to proceed in their Work, by the Oracle. We alighted to visit the Ruins of that famous Place, where the Isthmian Games were celebrated; which was on the Hill, being part of Mount Oneius before mentioned. There are yet to be seen the Ruins not only of the Town, old Walls, and several old Churches; but also the Remains of the Isthmi∣an Theater. Here were many more Temples, and excellent Edifices, mentioned by Pausanias; and many more he gives no Account of, we learned from a very fine Inscription we found half way in the Ground, by a little ruined Church: Which speaks of many Temples, Gardens, and Portico's, repaired by one Publius Licinius Priscus, Juventianus.

ΘΕΟΙΣ ΠΑΤΡΙΟΙΣ
ΚΑΙ ΤΗ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΙ
Π. ΛΙΚΙΝΙΟϹ ΠΙΑΙΜ ΠΡΕΙϹΚΟϹ
ΙΟΥΟΥΕΝΤΙΑΝΟϹ ΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΥΣ ΔΙΑ
ΒΙΟΥ ΤΑϹ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟΙϹ ΑΠΟ ΤΗϹ
ΟΙΚΑΥΜΕΝΗϹ ΕΠΙ ΤΑ ΙϹΘΜΙΑ ΠΑΡΑΓΕΝΟ
ΜΕΝΟΙϹ ΑΘΛΗΤΑΙϹ ΚΑΤΑϹΚΕΥΑϹΕΝ
Ο ΑΥΤΟϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΠΑΛΑΙΜΟΝΙΟΝ ΤΟΙϹ
ΠΡΟϹ ΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΑΓΙΟΤΗΡΙΟΝ
ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΙΕΡΑΝ ΕΙϹΟΔΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΤΩΝ
ΠΑΤΡΙsΟΗΝ ΘΕΩΝ ΒΩΜΟΥϹ ϹΥΝ ΤΩ ΠΕΡΙ
ΒΟΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟΝΑΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΕΝ ΚΡΙΤΗΡΙ
ΟΥϹ ΟΙΚΟΥϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥ ΗΛΙΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΝΑΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ
ΕΝ ΑΥΤΩ ΑΓΑΛΜΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΥΛΟΝ ΔΕ ΤΟΝ
ΠΕΡΙΒΟΥΛΟΝ ΤΗϹ ΙΕΡΑϹ ΝΑΠΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΕΝ ΑΥΤΗ
ΝΑΟΥϹ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΟϹ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΟΝΥϹΙ∣ΟΥ
ΚΑΙ ΑΡΤΕΜΙΔΟϹ ϹΥΝ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΑΥΤΟΙϹ ΑΓΑΛ
ΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟϹΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟΝΑΟΙϹ
ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΕΠΟΙΗϹΕΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΝΑΟΥϹ
ΕΥΕΤΗΡΙΑϹ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΠΛΟΥ
ΤΩΝΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑϹ ΑΝΑΒΑϹΕΙϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΑΝΑΛΗ
ΜΑΤΑ ΥΠΟ ϹΕΙϹΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΛΑΙΟΤΗΤΟϹ ΔΙΑ
ΛΕΛΥΜΕΝΑ ΕΠΑϹΚΕΥΑϹΕΝ Ο ΑΥΤΟϹ ΚΑΝ
ΤΗΝ ϹΤΩΑΝ ΤΗΝ ΠΡΟϹ ΤΩ ϹΤΑΔΙΩ ϹΥΝ
ΤΟΙΣ ΚΕΚΑΜΑ ΡΩΜΕΝΟΙϹ ΟΙΚΟΙϹ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟϹ
ΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΑΓΟΡΑ ΝΟΜΙΑϹ
ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ

The chief of which was dedicated to Palaemon, or Portumnus, as the Latines call him; in whose Honour the Isthmian Games, to which all Greece resorted, were instituted. The rest were dedicated, some to Neptune, others to the Sun; some to Ceres and Proserpina, others to Diana, to Pluto, to Plenty, to Bacchus, and the Nymph Nape. There are yet remaining in several places, Foundations of the Walls, that were built by the Lacedemonians, from one Sea to the other, to secure their Peninsula from the Incursions of their Enemies; which the Venetians repaired, when they had in possession the Kingdom of Morea, and were Lords of it.

Having taken as good a view, and survey of the Place, as the short∣ness of the time would permit us, we took Horse, and came to Corinth by that time it was dark; first watering our Horses by the way, at a ve∣ry fine Spring that rises at the side of the Hill Oneius, and falls into the Corinthian Gulph. The Isthmus is counted from Corinth between six or seven Miles, and is almost directly East from it.

[illustration] map of Corinth

Lib: VI. P: 459 pa: 442 CORINTHUS ET AB EIUS Acoeopoli Prosp••••tus

Corinth hath yet near upon preserv'd its old Name;* 1.27 for they still call it Corintho, or, for shortness, Coritho; seldom, now adays, pronouncing the Σ at the end of their words. It is situated towards the right hand, just within the Isthmus, on the Peloponnesian Shore, being distant from the Gulph of Corinth, about a couple of Miles, and from the Saronick Gulph, at least six or seven. It hath Athens East by South, and Mount Parnassus directly North; and by M^r Vernon's Calculation, thirty-eight Degrees, fourteen Minutes Latitude. It is not big enough now, to de∣serve the Title of a City; but may very well pass for a good conside∣rable Country Town. It consists of the Castle, and the Town below it, North of it, and at almost a Miles distance nearer the Sea. The low∣er Town lieth pleasantly upon an easie Descent of the Ground towards the Gulph of Lepanto. The Buildings are not close together; but in parcels, of half a dozen, or half a score, sometimes twenty together; but seldom more; with Gardens of Orange-trees, Lemons, and Cypress-trees about them, set with more Regularity, than is usual in these Coun∣tries; and such a distance is between the several Parcels, or Buildings, as that they have Corn-fields between them. The Houses are more spruce here, than ordinary; and the biggest quarter is, where the Bazar, or Market-place is, consisting of about fourscore, or an hundred Houses. There are two Mosques here, and one small Church, called Panagia; at

which the Arch-Bishop liveth, who was then absent: And few Marks either of his, or S^t Paul's Preaching, Pains, or Care of this famous Church of Corinth, are now to be observed there.

The next day we went first to see Panagioti Caballari, a Merchant of A∣thens, living most commonly here; and letting him understand our Cu∣riosity, by enquiring after the Antiquities of the Place, he shewed us presently, in his Cellar, a fair Inscription in Latine, of Faustina, Wife of the Emperour Antoninus Pius. Some distance Westwards off this, and upon a Ground somewhat higher than the Bazar, we went to see eleven Pillars standing upright. They were of the Dorick Order, cha∣nelled like those about the Temple of Minerva, and Theseus at Athens: the matter of which Pillars we found to be ordinary hard Stone, not Marble: But their Proportion extraordinary; for they are eighteen foot about; which makes six foot Diameter, and not above twenty foot and an half high; the Cylinder being twenty, and the Capitals two and an half. Whereas, according to Pliny, the Dorick Order should have the Shaft six times longer than the Diameter; as those of Athens, which have more, rather than less. But these are little above half so much. There is a Pillar standing within these, which hath the same Diameter; but is much taller than the others, although it hath part broken off, and neither Capital, nor Architrave, remaining near it: so that of what Order it was, is yet uncertain. The others are placed so with their Architraves, that they shew, they made a Portico about the Cella of the Temple: And the single Pillar is placed so towards the Western-end with∣in, as shews it supported the Roof of the Pronaes. There is also another Ruin on the North-side of the Bazar, of Brick-work; which looks like part of some Temple, or a Roman Bath.

This Town is governed by such Officers of the Grand Signior's, as other great Towns of his Empire are; that is to say, by a Caddi, a Vei∣vode, and Haga of the Castle. From the first of these we had a Summons, at our return Home to our Lodging, to appear before him, and give an Account of our selves, and of our Curiosity. For we had been ob∣serv'd to take the Measures of those Pillars, and to be very observing of the Place. But the Caddi, so soon as he understood by our Druggerman, that we were English, shewing him our Consul's Patent from the Grand Signior, to travel where we pleased; he told us, The English were Friends of his Emperour's that we were therefore welcom, and might go whi∣ther and when we pleased. This Caddi is counted to have at least three hundred Villages under his Jurisdiction: But these are little better, than so many Farms, up and down the Plain, between them and Sicyon; of which the Veivode, 'tis thought, hath the greatest share of the Profit. When it was known, how civilly the Caddi had used us, we obtain'd Leave to see the Castle, with less difficulty, by the Mediation of a cou∣ple of Dollers to one of the four Haga's, whose turn it then was to com∣mand the Castle. We went thither on Horse-back, it being a good hours work to get up to it from the Town; for it is a Mile thence to the foot of the Hill; and thence a very steep way up, with many Wind∣ings, and Turnings, before one arrives at the first Gate. The 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as the Castle was antiently called, is situated upon a very high Rock, having a great Precipice round about it; but not so deep on the

South-West side, where the Entrance is. For thence runs out a Ridge of the Hill, two or three Miles Southwards, in the Morea: And from thence it was, that Mahomet the Second made his Assault, when he took it from the Venetians, after fourteen Months Siege; that side of the Castle being the only place, where it is pregnable.

The first Gate we came to, is plated with Iron; where we were made to alight, to go in on foot. This side of the Rock is well covered with Houses: For not only those who still reside there, as well Turks as Chri∣stians, have their Houses and Families there; but for the most part, even those that dwell below in the Town, have Houses also in the Castle; where they keep all their best Goods safe from the frequent, but very uncourteous Visits of the Corsairs: and hither, upon the least Alarm, they come flocking with all they can bring with them. The Houses be∣low, being either Houses of Pleasure belonging to Turks of Quality; or such as have been built both by Turks and Christians, for the grea∣ter conveniency of Trade and Business. There are abundance of Ci∣sterns for Water, hewn into the Rock, and some Springs; especially one, which is toward the Southern-side of the Hill, which was called, in times past, Pyrene; being the Place where Bellerophon took the Winged Horse Pegasus, as he was there drinking.

There are three or four Mosques in the Castle, and five or six small Churches; but most of these ruined. The Catholica is kept in repair; but is a very mean Place for such an Ecclesiastical Dignity. In it we saw two old Manuscripts of the Scripture, divided according to the usual Readings of the Greek Church; and two Liturgies of S^t Basil: which we took to be very antient, because written upon long Scrolls of Parch∣ment, rouled upon Rolls of Wood, as Books used to be in antient times; whence they were called in Latine, Volumina. We observed moreover, That these Liturgies differed from those ordinarily printed at Venice, and used in their Churches, both in the Substance and Ceremony. But as to the Two Epistles written to this Church by S^t Paul, we had but little Account, and as little of their Zeal to his Doctrine as antiently. Under the Walls of the Castle towards the Town, is a little Chapel hewn out of the Rock, and dedicated to S^t Paul: Whence, when they rally, or speak with reproach of any of that Quarter of the Town, they usually tell them, They are of the Race of the Mockers, and those that laught at St. Paul's Preaching: Of whom it is reported, when one of them received the Sanctified Bread from the Hand of a Priest, according to the manner of their Liturgy, That he almost bit off the Priest's Finger; and after that, running mad, finally hang'd himself upon the Point of a Rock, that is over that Chapel. And the truth is, the Christians here, for want of good Instruction, and able and faithful Pastors to teach them, run daily into Apostasie, and renounce their Religion for the Turkish Superstition, upon every small Calamity, and Discontent that hap∣pens to them; and this not only among the common People, but even the Priests also: of which they say, There were three sad Examples, not long before our being there.

[illustration] map of Corinth

Lib: VI. P: 459 pa: 442 CORINTHUS ET AB EIUS Acropoli Prospectus

From the first Gate we mounted yet higher, and came to a second; which is well and strongly built, with two Towers on each side of it. This Wall I guess to be about two Miles in compass, having some Hou∣ses inhabited, but many more ruined within them. The two principal Points of the Rock are inclosed in them also. On the one, situated South-West of the other, is a Tower built; and on the other, being the highest Point, a little Mosque. To the Top of this last we moun∣ted; and had one of the most agreeable Prospects this World could give us. On the right hand of us, the Saronick Gulph, with all its little Islands, strowed up and down in it, to Capo Colonni, or the Promonte∣rium Sunium. Beyond that, the Islands of the Archipelago seemed to close up the Mouth of the Gulph. On the left hand of us, we had the Gulph of Lepanto, or Corinth, as far as beyond Sicyon bounded Northward with all those famous Mountains of old times, with the Isth∣mus, even to Athens, lying in a row, and presenting themselves orderly to our view. This, with all the little Skill I had, I designed, and wish∣ed my self a better Master in that Art, that I might have given you a more perfect Idea of it; the Particulars I observed, are these that fol∣low.

The Promontory by Sicyon, now called Basilico, where the Gulph of Lepanto turneth, bears North-West by North.

The Foot of the Mountain Cirphis, or the Promontory Cyrrha, now called Tramachi, North, North-West.

The Promontory Anticyrrha, now called Aspropiti, with the Bay of the same Name; and beyond it the highest Point of Parnassus, now cal∣led Heliocoro, covered with Snow, North.

The Foot of the Mountain Gerania, dividing the Gulph into two Bays; the one making the Bay of Corinth on this side, and the other making the Bay of Livadostro behind it. Above this, North, North-East, is the Mountain Helicon, with a high Bunch on its Back, like a Camel; and now called Zagara-Bouni, in the same Point.

The highest point of the Mountain Gerania, now called Palaio Bouni, between Megara and Corinth in the Isthmus, North-East by North.

The Isthmus it self, dividing the two Seas, viz. the Archipelago and the Mediterranean, runneth along hence East North-Eastwards, towards the highest ridge of Mount Cithaeron, now called Elatea.

Beyond Cithaeron Eastward follows Mount Parnes and Hymettus, and between them appeareth the White Temple of Minerva upon the Castle of Athens. By them the Island Coulouri. I noted them from hence East: But both by Monsieur Vernons account of the Latitude, and my own Ob∣servations on Mount Hymettus, it ought to be one point more South∣wards, to wit, East by South.

The Island Aegina in the Saronique Gulph South-East. Of the rest of the Isles in this Gulph I have already given an account. So I need only say, they appeared from hence as in a Map before me.

The Plain of Corinth, towards Sicyon, or Basilico, is well watered by two Rivulets, well Tilled, well Planted with Olive-Yards, and Vine-Yards, and having many little Villages scattered up and down in it, is none of the least of the Ornaments of this Prospect. The Town also, that lieth North of the Castle, in little Knots of Houses, surrounded with Orchards, and Gardens of Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, and Cypress Trees, and mixed with Corn-fields between, is a sight no less delightful. So that it is hard to judge, whether this Plain is more beautiful to the Beholders, or profitable to the Inhabitants. For it bears great plenty of Oyl, the best and sweetest I ever tasted. Nor do they want good Wine. But as to Corn it affords so great plenty, as supplyeth the Barrenness of its Neighbouring Countries. And its Plenty failing, brings most cer∣tainly a Famine upon their Neighbours round about them. So that this might soon grow to be a rich, and populous Country, were they under any Government, but the Mahumetans Tyranny; and not so often per∣secuted and spoiled by Christian Pirates, who give them many trouble∣some Visits. I was inform'd, at my return to Zant, that a considerable Party of Pirates had of late suddenly surprized them; and, having sack'd and plunder'd the Town as much as they could, they at last hamstring'd all their Horses also, lest the Turks should make a head and pursue after them. I saw not many great Guns planted here: but some there are planted Northwards, towards the Gulph of Lepanto. Under this Western Top of the Hill, is a place Walled in: which they say was the place where the Jews lived, when Corinth was under the Venctians. They make four distinct quarters of this Castle, each Governed by a distinct Haga. But their Forces consist now only of the Inhabitants, Turks and Christi∣ans: no Jews are now amongst them. The number of Turks and Christi∣ans seem to be equal, and are esteem'd not to exceed fifteen hundred in number, both in the Town and Castle; but there are many more dispersed up and down in the Zengaries, or Villages, in the Plain which I do not now reckon.

By that time we returned to our Lodgings it was Evening;* 1.28 and we resolved the next day to take our Horses, and ride over the Plain to see the ancient Sicyon; which lies about three hours riding from Corinth on the Gulph of Lepanto. A little way out of the Town, we turned out of the way on our right hand, to the House of a Turk called Monselim Narb, who is Assistant to the Caddi, to see an Inscription, we were in∣form'd was there; and found upon a Stone, that is the Transeant over his Door; to Copy which we were admitted with some difficulty, be∣cause he kept his Women there.

L. HERMIDIVS CELSVS ET RVTILIVS
AVGVSTI ET L. HERMIDIVS MAXIMVS ET L. HERMVS..
AEDEM ET STATVAM APOLLINIS AVGVSTI ET TABERNAS DECEM

We found the Inscription to be of one Lucius, Hermidius Celsus, and some others, who had built the Temple of Apollo, and dedicated his Sta∣tue in it, and Ten Taverns: from whence, and the ruins the House had been built of, we judg'd, that there abouts was situate the Temple of Apollo, and found it to agree well with Pausanias his acount of it. For, saith he, going from the Market place towards Sicyon, one leaves the Tem∣ple of Apollo on the right hand. This and the other Inscription we found here are, both, Latin ones, as are all the Medals found of this place. The reason is,* 1.29 because it being a Roman Colony from the time that Mem∣mius, the Roman Consul had destroyed the place, and Chased away all the Native inhabitants thereof; they used the Roman Language. Upon their Coins they used the Pegasus, and the Chimaera, half Lyon and half Stag: of each of which I have one in my Collection. And these are all the remains of the Antiquities we observed about Corinth. We found not the Tomb of Diogenes the Cynick: which was in times past by the entrance into the Town coming from the Isthmus. But we saw it and Copied his Epitaph at Venice, in the Palace of Signior Erizzo, upon a Marble, under the Basso-relievo of a Dog; which we suppose was brought from hence, when the Morea was under the Dominion of that State.

[illustration] dog

Diogenis Illoniunentum Sepulchrale. Lib. VI.

ΕΙΠΕ ΚΥΩΝ ΤΙΝΟΣ ΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΕΨΙΣΤΑΣ ΣΗΜΑ ΨVΛΑΣΣΕΣ
ΤΟΥ ΚΥΝΟΣ ΑΛΛΑ ΤΙΣΗΝ ΟΥΤΟΣ ΑΝΗΡ ΩΚΥΩΝ
ΔΙΟΓΕΝΗΣ ΓΕΝΟΣ ΕΙΠΕ ΣΙΝΟΠΕΥΣ ΟΣ ΠΙΘΟΝ ΩΙΚΕΙ
ΚΑΙΗΑΛΛΑΝΥΝΔΕ ΘΑΝΩΝ ΑΣΤΕΡΑΣ ΟΙΚΟ ΕΧΕΙ

On it is an Epigram, that importeth thus much. Supposing a Passen∣ger going that way, enquireth of the Dog, Whose Tomb he guardeth? He answers, The Dogs. But who is this man you call the Dog? Answer is made, Diogenes the Cynick, who lived in a Tub: But now being dead, inhabits among the Stars. This rigid Philosopher, Diogenes, who lived in a Tub, was native of Sinope; but his sowre and austere nature and discipline having chang'd his nature: It seems they changed his name from that of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 to 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, his nature being transformed from Hu∣manity to the Churlishness of a Dog. He was one of the Magistrates of his City; and flattered by the Oracle, aspir'd to the highest place in it by Coining of false money: But for this he was Chased from Sinope, and fled to Athens: where he came acquainted with that great Philosopher, Antisthenes, who disputed so much against the seeking of glory. He fell afterwards, passing by Sea, into the hands of Pyrats, who brought him to be sold in the publick Market-place: Where being asked what he could do, he answer'd Govern men, and seeing a certain Spendthrift of Corinth, he desired he might be sold to him, because he wanted a Gover∣nour: who bought him, and set him to teach his Children: where he lived and died.

After this we return'd into our way again, and left the Olive-Yards and Vineyards on our right hand, which are watered by the Rivulet Ornea, running down from the Mountains, that bound this Plain South, and South-Westwards: and from thence, I believe runs into the River Nemea; which we past about mid-way by a Bridge. This River then was not very considerable: but after rains is poured down from the Mountains in such abundance, that it fills many Channels on each side of it, which before were dry. In our way we passed by many lit∣tle

Villages, and arrived at Basilico after three hours riding.

Basilico, or as some call it, Basilica, was in old time a great City cal∣led Sicyon. When the Kingdom of the Morea was under the Tenetians, it was a considerable Town; now it is but a heap of Ruins, and Inhabi∣ted only by three Families of Turks, and about as many Christians. This final destruction, one of the Inhabitants told us, happened about twenty years ago by the Plague: which they held to be a Judgment of God up∣on the Turks, for profaning one of the Christian Churches there, turning it into a Mosque, by Command of the Vaivode; who fell down dead upon the place the first time he caused the Alchoran to be read in it: whose Death was followed soon after with such a Pestilence, as in a short time utterly destroyed the whole Town: which could never since be re-peopled.

It is situated upon a Hill about three Miles from the Gulph of Lepanto, and hath the River Asopus running under it on the East-side: on which are some Powder-Mills, as they told us; which are the first I ever saw in Turkey. There remaineth abundance of Ruins both ancient and mo∣dern. The Wall of the Castle, many Churches, and some Mosques: and a good way off the Castle Westwards is a Ruin they call the Kings Pa∣lace: which seems to be very ancient, but made of Bricks. I take it to have been a Bath, from the many Chanels down the Wall to bring Water. Beyond that at a good distance, is a Hill formed Semicircular, I believe by Art, and to have been a Theater, or Stadium. There are also abun∣dance of Caverns and Vaults in the ground; which we could not stay to examine with any exactness: but returned part of our way towards Corinth that Evening, and lay at a little Village about midway. The next Morning we passed along the shore by several little Lakes, and the anci∣ent Port of Corinth, called Lechaeum, now quite choked up. We left Corinth about two Miles off on the right hand, and went two or three Miles further to a Village they call Heximillia: where we spent the rest of a wet day, because we could not reach to Megara that Night: nor was there any where to lodge at in the way. This Village is called Hexi∣millia, because the Isthmus at this place is six Miles wide. The next day we came early to Megara; and the day following to Athens.

The Plants I took notice of, and gathered in the Isthmus, are these.

• 1. Sea-Pines, with small Cones.
• 2. Wild Olive-Trees.
• 3. Lentiscus, grown to the bigness of Trees.
• 4. Much of the Horncod-Tree, or Keratia.
• 5. A Tree called by the Greeks Kedros. It is very like Sabina bacci∣fera; but here it groweth to an extraordinary bigness, tall, and streight up like a Tree. But I could perceive no difference between it and Sa∣bina Baccifera besides. For the Berries and green of both are alike.
• 6. Cedrus Lyciae: part of whose Leaves are like Sabina Baccifera, and part like Juniper.
• 7. Scabiosa argentea, petraea, or Silver-colour'd rock-scabious. It is a little shrub, with long and narrow silver-colour'd Leaves; the Flowers I saw not.
• 8. Aristolachiae Clematitis Species. Of which before.

• 9. Linaria, Latifolia, Valentiana, Clusii. It is a kind of Toad-flax, with broad Leaves, and the Flowers are of several Colours, Blue, Yel∣low, and White: which look very beautiful.
• 10. Androsemum Ʋmbelliferum: of which before.
• 11. Scorzonera rotundâ radice, as before.

Before I quit Attica, I shall here insert another Journey I made to the Promontory Sunium; although I did it another time after my Camerade and I had parted in Greece: that what I have to say of the Attica may be together. Consul Gira••d, and a Merchant of Micone, were so kind to let me have their Company. We set out in Easter-Week, and resolved to take Port-Raphti in our way, to which our Road lay directly Eastwards from Athens. We passed by Mount Saint George on our left hand about a Mile, and made towards the end of Mount Hymettus, which we left on the right hand, about four Miles from Athens. About six Miles from A∣thens we saw on the left hand a Village called Agopi, where beginneth the Plain of Mescigia: which is all that Tract of Land that is between Hymettus and Promontorium Sunium, called in times past Paralia, and was the Portion of Pallas, another of the Sons of Panthion. ••e came, and Dined at a little Cell belonging to the Covent Kyriana, called Meto∣chi, which signifieth a Farm, where some Caloiroes live, to Husband their grounds. After Dinner we took Horse, and continued our Journey, un∣til we came to Porto Raphti; which is esteemed eighteen Miles from Athens: But I do not believe it above fourteen, or fifteen.* 1.30 The Bay that maketh this Harbour is situated on the Eastern shore of Attica, and hath the highest point of Mount Hymettus Northwest by North. The Southern Promontory of Negropont East. It is divided into two little Baies, by a sharp point, that runneth into the middle of it, and it hath two little Islands, or Rocks towards the Mouth: the biggest of which lieth East South-East off from the middle point, and giveth the name to the Har∣bour, from a Colossian Statue of White Marble, representing a Taylor, cutting Cloth; which the Greeks call Raphti. These secure the Port against all Winds coming from the Sea: so that it is not only a secure Port, but they say so convenient, that hardly any Wind can blow, but Ships may both go out, and come in with the same. I believe, this Port was anciently called Panormus: from whence the Athenians were wont to fail to Delos, to carry the Mysteries of Apollo, sent down through all Greece from the Hyperboreans. Here are also the Ruins of a Town upon the shore, which was the Town called anciently 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Prassae, being the Harbour, where in former times twenty Sail of the Issad•• join'd with the Roman Fleet, when they were called to help the Athenians against Philip King of Macedon.

We turned a little to the right hand thence, and after we had rode about six Miles further, we came to a Village called Marcopoli.* 1.31 The Ruins hard by it shews it to have been a considerable place in old time; but now it hath not above twenty or thirty Houses remaining. Perhaps it was anciently the Town, Aegilia, of the Tribe of Antïoch. Strabo calleth them Aeginenses: but Meursius corrects him out of Suidas and Stephanus. In some ruined Churches I found a few inconsiderable Inscrip∣tions, upon Pillars and Sepulchral Monuments.

The next Morning early we parted thence, and after about three

hours riding, came to a desolate Church, but kept in repair by the Vil∣lages about it; every one of which have an Olive Tree planted by it: I suppose to serve for Oyl for the Lamps in the Church. Before the Church, at the West end of it, is the Tomb of the Founder of the Church: upon which among the Stones, is an ancient Basso-relievo of a Woman in a sedent posture. Here groweth the biggest Lentiscus Tree I ever saw: Out of several places of the Body of it, Tears of Mastick Issued: Which convinced me, that not only at Scio, but in all these parts they would yield Mastick, if they were cultivated. I guess also, that hereabouts the Town, Anaphylista, was situated, if not at the Town following, to which after an hour and a halfs riding thence, Southward, we came, being called Kerateia from the Karobs, of which I saw several Trees growing wild. This hath been an ancient, and great City; and did preserve it self considerable, until destroyed by the Corsairs about fifty or threescore years ago. They had their Epitropi, or Archontes, un∣til then, who did wear High-crown'd Hats, like those of Athens. I could discern here, where an Amphitheater had been, by the Foundations, and some other remains of it. In the Church I found an Inscription; which I believe would have given me some light concerning the Antiquity of the place, had it been better preserv'd. From this place we were three long hours before we arriv'd at Promontorium Sunium, the way being very rocky and bad, up-hill and down-hill all along. About midway we past over a little Mountain, where in times past they digged much Sil∣ver, and now some Copper; out of which, they say, the Goldsmiths of Athens at present separate a considerable quantity of Silver.* 1.32 But they let not the Turks know so much, lest the Grand Signior should impose the Slavery of digging in the Mines upon them. I saw abundance of Cinders lying up and down in the wayes; which assured me, that in times past they had digg'd great quantities of Metals there. Xenophon calls this Mountain Laurium. Pausanias and many other Authors mention it: But whether there was a Town called by the same name, I know not. But if so, it was done by Xenophons Counsel, who advised them to build a Ca∣stle there, lest the Mines should be neglected in time of War: But if be∣fore, I believe it was nearer the Sea-side: where there is a kind of Har∣bour for Boats, to pass over to Macronisa.

Promontorium Sunium is now called by the Francks, Capo Colonni, from the White Pillars of the Temple of Minerva,* 1.33 that yet remain on the point of it, being seen a great way from Sea. The Temple is situated on the top of an high Rock, running far into the Sea. Nine Dorick Pillars are standing on the South-West side of it, and five on the opposite side. At the South end remain two Pilasters, and part of the Pronaos upon which are Engraven many names ancient and modern. The Temple seems to have been inclosed in a Castle by the Foundations of the Walls; below which are other Foundations of Walls: which were undoubtedly the Town Sunium, which was reckoned one of the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 or Burgess-Towns of the Athenians. On the right hand it hath a little Bay, which was its ancient Port: But it is now quite deserted, as well as the little Island Patroclea, lying about a quarter of a Mile South-West off it. They say here grows some Ebany yet; but much destroyed by the Corsairs. Whence it is, that some call this place Ebanonisi, or the Isle of Ebany.

Others call it still Patroclea: but most call it Guidronisa. The bad wea∣ther this day was a great prejudice to the good Prospect I otherwise should have had from hence, of most of the Islands of the Archipelago: notwithstanding which I observed with my Compass, as followeth:

• 1. The further end of Macronisa, anciently called Helena, North-East, the hither end East.
• 2. Zea, one end East; the other, South-East.
• 3. Thermia beginneth South-East, endeth South-South-East.
• 4. Seriphanto, or Seripho, a little more South-South-East.
• 5. Antimilo, South by East.
• 6. Sant. Georgio, de Albero, South-West.
• 7. Capo Schillo, or Promontorium Schillaeum, West-South-West.
• 8. The highest point of Aegina, West, North-West.
• 9. I found a shrub growing hereabouts, which hath Leaves, and smell something like Stoechas Arabica: But not so strong. The Flowers then blowen, were like Rosemary. I keep it dried; but I have not yet found what to call it.

We were forced to return on our way back again from the Promon∣tory that Evening, because we could have neither Meat, Drink, nor Lodging near that place. We directed our course therefore more to∣wards the Shore of the Saronick Gulph, than we did at our coming: and that Evening came to some Shepherds belonging to the Convent of Pendely; where with all the Covert they had, we could scarce sit dry, it was such bad weather: and our Inn being only a Tent made of a Hedge o•• Faggots, covered with some Blankets over them. Not far from thence, toward the Sea, is a Town situated upon a Hill,* 1.34 called Metro∣pis: which were probably the Azenenses, Strabo placeth next before the Promontory Sunium.

The next Morning we parted early, and after ten or a dozen Miles riding, we came to the Ruins of a Town, built on a Rock, called En∣neapyrgae, or Nine Towers; from so many Towers formerly standing on the Rock. This is near a Bay of the Gulph; which I believe was anci∣ently called Hyphormus Portus, and the Town it self 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Lampra Maritima, or Inferior. For there was another Lampra, called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or Superior: which without doubt was the ruin'd Town, about three or four Miles more towards the Midland, cal∣led yet Lambra: for so the Greeks pronounce 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is,* 1.35 π after μ as we do b. At this last we sate down, and dined: and after Dinner we kept on something North-Westwards, thorough a good and well cultivated Plain, to two or three Houses in the Fields, they call Fillia. The distance from Athens, and resemblance of the name, makes me be∣lieve, it was hereabouts the ancient Phlya stood: which in times past was a place adorn'd with many Temples, especially of Diana Lucifera, if Pausanias does not confound it with 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Phyla, on Mount Parnes: where also was an Altar to Diana, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, dedicated by Thrasibulus, when in a dark Night he was conducted to Munichia, by a light he attri∣buted to Diana; at that time when he went to deliver the City from the thirty Tyrants, the Spartans had then imposed upon the Athe∣nians.

Thence we turned yet a little further North-Westwards, and came

into the way to Athens, passing between two Ridges of the Mountain Hymettus: that on the left hand being called Lambra-Vouni, because of its nearness to Lambra, and the other Telo-vouni, which thence descends with a sharp point into the Sea, and making a Promontory now called Halikes; but anciently Zoster. Just before it are four little Islands, or rather Rocks; they call Cambonisia: The Button Island. When we were past these Ridges of Mount Hymettus, we came into the Plain of Athens: where leaving two Villages, as we passed, Cocouvannes and Me∣nidi, the one on the right hand, and the other on our left, we arrived at Athens by that time it was dark.

I shall now return to Monsieur Spon,* 1.36 and with less regret take my leave of Athens, and all its reverend Antiquities. Our design was to pass quite thorough Greece to Monte Santo, or Mount Athos, and so in∣to Germany. And to that intent agreed with Morates, our Druggerman, and Jani, our Hagoiates, or Guide, for himself and Horses, to Accom∣pany us as far as the Turkish Territories extended that way, or to some Caravan nearer, and more for our convenience.

Having thus Ordered our affairs, and made the best Provision we could against human Exigencies, we parted from Athens upon Wednesday the twenty ninth of February, 1675/6. Leaving the way of Porto Raphti on the right hand, and keeping under Mount Anchesmus on our left; first by the Covent Hagio Asomato, and then by the place, where the Waters are collected into Chanels, to be carried to Athens: after two or three Miles riding through Olive-Yards,* 1.37 we came to a place called Angelo-pico: where the better sort of Christian Athenians come to enjoy the pleasant shades in the heat of Summer, to their little Country Houses situate in a Wood of Olives, Cypress's, Oranges, Lemon-Trees; mixed with Vine-Yards. This may be the Angela of the Ancients, with whom those of Pallena would not marry, because of the Traiterous Herald, that disco∣vered to Theseus the design of Pallas, to set on the City at two places at once. But Theseus, being thus advertiz'd, set upon those that lay in Ambuscade, and wholly defeated their Army.

A Mile or two further we passed by a Village,* 1.38 called Callandri, which is also seated amongst Olive-Yards, and had some other ancient name: but what, I cannot at present determine. After two hours riding in all, we came to the Monastery Pendeli, which lyeth under a Mountain, bear∣ing the samé name;* 1.39 whose top is seen from Mount Saint George, and Athens North East. The Covent of Penteli is one of the most celebrated Monasteries of all Greece, and did undoubtedly take its name from the Mountain and Town Pentelicus or Pentela, although it be now called Pendeli,* 1.40 and by the more unlearned, sometimes Mendeli. For the Greeks pronounce T after N like a D, and so write the place 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Penteli, though they pronounce it Pendeli. They consist of above a hundred Caloiroes, and more than a hundred and thirty persons in number, having a considerable revenue belonging to them. They are under the Prote∣ction of the Sultaness Mother: for which they pay to the New Mosque she built, some years since, at Constantinople, yearly six thousand pound weight of Honey; and are obliged to furnish it with as much more at the price of five Dollars the Quintal. They seldom have less than five thousand Stocks of Bees, beside much Arable Land, and Flocks of Sheep,

and Herds of Cattel, together with large Vine-Yards, and Olive-Yards, and want no other conveniences that the manner of their life requireth. The Seniors of the House have all Chambers to themselves, with Novices to wait on them. Besides, I believe the situation of the place, in Summer time, must needs be very agreeable; being between the Ridges of the Mountain, with divers curious Fountains issuing out of it: which are received into Pools to keep Fish in, and turn their Mills as they pass. They are shaded with Woods of several sorts of Trees: which moderate the heat of the Summer, and furnish them with sufficient Fewel against the cold of the Winter; which is sharp enough there, the top of the Mountain being then still covered with Snow. They have not only this Provision for the Body, but have also a Library of Good Books, to in∣form their Minds, though I fear they make but little use of them.

Their Books are all Manuscripts, and consist chiefly of the Greek Fa∣thers; most of which we found there.

I took notice of Saint Chrysostom in six Volums.

Saint Basil upon the Psalms, and other his Works.

Saint John Damascen, his Works in Folio.

Saint Gregory Nazianzen, Saint Gregory Nyssen.

A Lexicon of Saint Cyrills. The Works of Saint Macarius the Great.

A very fine Saint Dionysius, the Areopagite, the Titles whereof are in Golden Letters, the whole Book very fairly written upon Velome, and ancient. His Works are highly esteemed at Athens, and to be undoubt∣edly his.

The Weather being very bad, Snowy, Rainy, and Windy, we were willing to spend that day there, being entertained by the Good Fathers with all the Courtesie imaginable: They made us an excellent Fire, which was but needful; For although there be no very great hard Frosts in these Countries, it is nevertheless sometimes extream cold; especially when the Winds blow over the Mountains covered with Snow; as then it happened to do, over Pendelico, with such a force, as we were scarce able to sit our Horses, nor hinder the Cold from passing thorough all the Cloths we could put on: But this bad weather did not cool our Curio∣sity: so much, but that after we had refreshed our selves, we took a Guide to go up and shew us the Quarries of White Marble, with the other curious Grottoes of Congelations, hewen into the sides of the Moun∣tain. We ascended about a Mile Northward of the Covent, and passed over a small stream in the way, not far from it.* 1.41 We found the Grottoes in the Rock are well worth seeing, being hewn a considerable way into the Mountain, and divided into a great many Caverns, or petty Cells, incrusted with curious Congelations. Some sparkle like Walls of Dia∣mond; which being broken splitteth into Talcum. Some shew like Scenes of Trees, and Woods afar off. We crept down to one near twenty Fathom, by a narrow way, on our hands and feet, to a Foun∣tain, they say in Summer is so cold, one cannot abide ones hands in it a Pater noster, which is a very short space of time: that work being usually dispatcht with great Expedition, as well in the Greek as Latin Church. They hold, that the ancient Christians used to hide themselves there in times of perseoution. The Mountain there is a perfect Rock of White

Marble,* 1.42 and hard by we saw the Quarries, where vast quantities of it had been hewed out, for the most eminent structures of Athens. Where∣upon we no longer doubted, but this was the ancient Mountain, Pente∣licus, so often mentioned by Pausanias for its Marble.

[illustration] plant

Lib: VI. Arbutus Dioscoridis vera Comarea dicta

About this Mountain I observed abundance of that kind of Arbutus I before spoke of; and of which Matthiolus, by his Commentary upon Dioscorides, seems wholly ignorant. For this agreeth well with Dioscori∣des his Description; But not that which we have growing in France and Italy. They call it here 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is not much different from Di∣oscorides his name 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. What he saith of it is to this effect.

Comarus, saith he, is a Tree, like a Quince Tree, with a thin Bark, the Fruit of it about the bigness of a Plum, without a Stone; which when it is ripe, is of a reddish colour, and is called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

This agrees very well with the Tree I speak of: but the Description is not perfect. For the Tree is indeed like a Quince Tree, the Leaves being broad like it, or rather like a Pear, and the Bark of it is thin. But withal, it should be observ'd, it is of a reddish Colour, smooth and shining, as if it were po∣lished. The Branches also grow at small distances in rundles, round the Body, like the Fir-Trees, beset with large broad Leaves, as big as those of a Quince, or Pear-Tree, and very like in shape. Within, it is of a shi∣ning dark Green, and without of a whitish Colour, and smooth at the Edges. At the top of the Branches I then saw bunches of small Flowers of a whitish Colour; which are succeeded with a Fruit, in shape like a Pipin, but not much bigger than Cervices, of a red Colour, but dark and smooth, and something lesser than the ordinary Arbutus: nor hath it any Stone, but seed. I believe it may be that which Bellonius calls Adrach∣nes of Candia. But here I observed also another kind of it, without any

considerable difference, that I could perceive, save only the length of the Leaves, and those a very little snipped at the edges. The Fruit I saw at Smyrna, ripe and green, going thence to Ephesus. But here the Trees seemed to be much larger.

We parted hence the next day about ten in the Morning, and turning about the North-West side of the Mountain; in the Plain of Athens we came into the way that leads to Marathon:* 1.43 wherein we passed first by a Village about two or three Miles from Penteli, called Gevisia, or Cevisia: of which 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 was the ancient name: Herodes Atticus above-men∣tioned had here one of his Country-Houses. It is situate upon the stream, that cometh from the Mountain Pentelicus. and falleth into the Cephisus. We perceiv'd some ancient Walls of Marble near the Mosque there, as we went thorough the Village.

Continuing on our way, we passed by another ruined Village, called Stamati;* 1.44 and then proceeding over a Ridge where the Mountains No∣zea and Pendeli meet, we descended to a Village at the foot of them called Ʋrania in the Plains of Marathon, about seven or eight Miles from Gevisia; It is inhabited by the Albanese Shepherds and Herdsmen, and situated as it were between two Buttrices of the Mountain. Its present name Ʋranna seemeth to be a corruption of the ancient Brauron; which probably stood hereabouts, and was celebrated for the Temple of Diana of Brauron. Here began that Province of Attica, called Diacria, or, sometimes, Hyperdiacria, and ended at the Mountain Parnes, as Hesychius telleth us. This part of Attica was left by King Pandion to his second Son, Lycus being that which lyeth opposite to Euboea, or Ne∣gropont, as Strabo out of Sophocles proveth. So that I believe Diacria might contain all that Country from the Cynosura Promontory, which is made by a Ridge of the Mountain Pentelicus, running out into the Sea from it, being not far from Brauron) and the Mountainous Country of Nosea and Casha, as far as Oropus, being the bounds of Attica and Boeotia.

From Ʋrania we turned towards the left hand, under the Mountain Nosea, and after two or three Miles riding left the Town Marathon, cal∣led still by the same name, as it was anciently, although now but a poor Village, on our left hand. There we passed over a little River, that cometh down from the Mountain, and passeth by Marathon over the Plain into the Sea: and thence proceeding a Mile or two further, we past by a Fountain, that presently seems to stagnate into the Lake of Marathon, so much celebrated for the overthrow of Xerxes his Army. Hard by this we passed by a ruined Tower, and an old Church; where, in all likelyhood, stood the ancient Tricorithus; and about a Mile further came to a little Village of the Albaneses, called Chouli: where we lodged that Night. The Inhabitants of this place have another Village, called by the same name, on the Mountains, this is too cold for them and their Herds in the Winter; and that is too dry, and too much infested with Flies, bred out of the Lake, to be inhabited in Summer. So that it is not to be thought Luxury but Necessity, that makes these poor people provide themselves Houses both for Summer and Winter.* 1.45 The Lake of Marathon is covered all over with Rushes and Weeds, more like Marshy and boggy ground than a Lake; and they say, that at sometimes 'tis al∣most

most dry. This was famous for the destruction of Xerxes's Army, but now only very large Eeles breeding in it; which those of the Covent Pendeli come and fish for: who have a Metochi, or Farm, thereabouts, where some of the Caloiro's live, and look after the Boufolo's; which love extreamly to feed and wallow in the mire of it.

The next Morning we took Horse, and rode three or four Miles fur∣ther Northward from the lower Chouli, and came to the Shore opposite to Euboea, to an old ruined Town they call Tauro-castro, sometimes He∣braeo-castro, fituate in the Isthmus of a Peninsula, that bounds the Plain of Marathon beyond the Lake Northwards: where the Shore of Attica makes a considerable Promontory. Thence the Promontory Sunium lies directly South: But thence towards Negropont it makes a crook, and turns North-West. This Promontory was undoubtedly called in ancient times Chersonessus Promontorium,* 1.46 and this ruin'd Town Rhamnus, celebrated all over Greece for the Temple of Nemesis that was there; the Work∣man-ship of whose Statue was much admired. The Ruins of this Temple are yet to be seen upon a Hill in the middle of the Isthmus; being at pre∣sent only a heap of White Marble. From the Castle here I saw a high Mountain of Euboea, North-North-West: which I believe, is that called now Delphi. Over against this place East-North-East, is a Harbour of the same Island, called Porto-Bufalo; and the Southern Promontory of it also called Capo Karisto South-South-East. From the Temple of Neme∣sis, turning about, we had Porto Raphti, and beyond that Capo-Colonni, South, Macronisa South by East. Some other Islands South, South-East, between that and Capo Caristo, as I think, Zea. We searched about for the Grotto of the God Pan, in old times very much celebrated in these parts; but could neither find it, nor hear any news of it.

From hence it would have been our nearer way to Negropont to have gone directly on; but they told us, there was no way thence over the Mountain Nosea: for that coming along from the Mountain Pentelicus it ends here towards the Sea in unpassable Rocks and Precipices. We were therefore forced to return as far back as Marathon, to recover our way to Negropont:* 1.47 Marathon is now but a pitiful ruined Village which we thought not worth alighting to see, therefore leaving it a little be∣yond it, we began to go up the Mountain Nosea, our way lying along the River I before spake of, which here and there makes little Cataracts, or falls of Water, as it descendeth into the Plain. What ancient name it had I know not unless Charadra, whence the Town was called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. After an hour and half's riding from Marathon, we passed by a ruined Village called Kalingi,* 1.48 upon the side of the Mountain; and about as far more on the Plain on the top of the Mountain, another cal∣led Capandritti,* 1.49 or Capodritti, famous for good Wine. One of these I be∣lieve was anciently the Town Oenoa of which the Proverb 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Thence we proceed almost to the highest point of the Mountain, by an easie ascent, an hours riding further. Whence I saw the highest point of Mount Hymettus, and Pentelicus Southwards, the Gulf of Ne∣gropont, or Euripus, North; Mount Casha, or Parnes, Westwards. On this Mountain is a large Plain, bounded with the high Mountains of Casha, and its own highest Cliffs towards the Plain of Marathon; being a great Portion, or part of Diacria above-mention'd. As to the ancient name

of this Mountain, although from Pentelicus hither I heard of no other present name that it hath then Nosea, or Nozea; yet I guess it had for∣merly two names: First, That part which reacheth from Ʋrania to Ma∣rathon, and again from the Plain of Athens towards Parnes, to have been called Brilessus: and that Thucydides teacheth me, saying,* 1.50 that the La∣cedemonians, being come with their Army into Attica by the Plains of Eleusis and Thryassius, leaving Parnes on the left hand, and Aegalis on the right, pitched their Tents at Acharna; and thence, when they saw the Athenians would not come out to fight, removing their Camp, they spoiled some of their Towns between Parnes and Brilessus, and so re∣turn'd by Oropus and Boeotia. Whence it is plain, that this part at least of Nozea confining upon Parnes, was called anciently Brilessus. As to the other part of this Mountain, beyond Marathon to the Gulph of Negro∣pont, it is not so clear; yet I believe it went by another name in times past; first, because it lay not so near the Lacedemonians way to Oropus, as this; which they must necessarily pass over to go thither. And then it seems naturally to be severed at Marathon by the River: whence it ri∣seth still higher and higher towards the North end, and also towards the South, making two distinct Ridges; but chiefly, because I know not where to place the Mountain Lycobettus, but here; and that with some probability from the name Lycabetus: which seemeth to be derived, either from 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, signifying a Wolf; with which the desart and rocky places of this Mountain might be infested: or lastly from Lycus, second Son to Pandion, King of Athens; whose Heritage, left him by the King his Fa∣ther, was all that Mountainous Country, lying towards the Island of Euboea, and was called Diacria and Huperdiacria, and therefore most likely the Mountain bearing his name was in his Country.

From the top of this Mountain we descended, about an hour and more, along a torrent, and came by that time it was dark, to a Town on the side of the Mountain called Marcopoli. The Inhabitants of this place were once, not long since, about to run away for Poverty and Debt: But the Benignity of the Captain Basha, who alloweth them the third of their labour, and the ground; hath hitherto kept about fifty or three-score Families of them together, to inhabit there. By some fragments of Antiquity still remaining; This place should have been, in ancient times, more considerable than now it seems. Perhaps it was Hyttania, afterwards called Tetrapolis, because it had four Towns under it, viz. Marathon, Pro∣balinthus, Tricorithus and Oinea. For so I understand Stephanus Byzan∣tinus, although others take it to be no particular Town, or City, but all the four Towns jointly to be called by that common name, Tetrapolis. But these seem not to have read far enough in the Lexicon, nor to consi∣der what Stephens there quoteth out of Androsion: 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Androsion saith, it is called Tetrapolis by reason of the four Towns above-named: But that it self was called in times before Hyt∣tania.

The next day we parted early, and descending yet lower on the side of the Mountain, we came to the shore of Euripus; along which continu∣ing our way two hours and a halfs riding, we came to the mouth of the

River Asopus, which we had formerly passed over in our way to Athens from Thebes, but was now there so swelled with the Rains that had fal∣len from the Mountain Parnes, that we could not pass it over on Horse∣back. Therefore we continued our way along the Banks, till we came to Oropo,* 1.51 a large Town, consisting, I believe, of two hundred Houses. This was undoubtedly the ancient Town Oropus, in the Confines of Attica and Boeotia, so much contested for between the Athenians and Thebans: It is situated two or three Miles from the Sea, upon the Attick side of the River;* 1.52 the Region about it being formerly called Pyrace; and is, I be∣lieve, the narrow Plain under Parnes and Lycobettus, on the Southside of the Asopus. About two or three Miles further, being Noon, we passed over the River Asopus by a Ferry, to a Village called Scamino; And then we judged our selves quite out of the Athenian Territories. And again in Boeotia.

Scamino is a Town almost as big as Oropus,* 1.53 and is situated on the other side of the River, under a steep Hill North-East of it; whereon, I be∣lieve also, the greatest part of the ancient Town was built. My Compa∣nion thinks, that it was called in times past Sycaminon, as I guess, from Laurenburgius: But I know not their reason. I believe it to have been a place more considerable than such an obscure Village, if such a one there ever was; for I can no where find it. The ancient Ruins of this place shew it to have been a large City; The Greeks have yet many Churches in it: among the rest Hagioi seranda, or the Church of Forty Saints, Pa∣nagia, and Hagios Elias: which are built out of ancient Ruins; among which we observed some Inscriptions. By one we should have judg'd this place to have been Oropus, had not the true Oropus so well preserved its ancient name. I take the Hill by it to be that called Cerycius Mons in more ancient times: And the Town to have been Tanagra, so much spo∣ken of, and described last on the River Asopus, by the ancients: It was called first Paemandria, after that Graea, and Tanagraea, as Pausanias; but now Scamino. Thence it is about three hours riding to Negropont: in the way to which we passed by a Village called Dramish,* 1.54 inhabited only by Fishermen: and within three or sour Miles of Negropont, a Port cal∣led yet Megalo Bathy,* 1.55 or Vathi: of which Strabo takes notice by the same name, signifying Portus Profundus. Near this there is another small Bay called Micro Bathy;* 1.56 and lastly there is a large Bay, which hath two nar∣row Entrances; one on this side, and the other at the City; making the famous Streight of the Euripus. This Bay hath good Moorage all over, and was the famous Port Aulis in times past, where all the Grecian Fleet assembled to go against the Trojans. But of the Town Aulis, we observed no remainder, although it was, for certain, near Chalcis. now called Ne∣gropont by the Francks: where we arrived in very good time, and went and lodged at the House of one Gioseppe Rosso, formerly a Slave of Mal∣ta; but now bears the Character of French Consul there.

Negropont is called by the Grecians Egripos,* 1.57 as well the City as the Island: which is very probably a corruption of the word Evripus: which the Greeks would pronounce Evripos, making the V after another Vowel, sound as the Latines, and we do the V Consonant, and sometimes like an F, or Ph. But the barbarous name, by which the Italians, and we from them, call it, hath no foundation for it, but the ignorance of the Lan∣guage.

For there is no such thing as a Black Bridge over the Euripus, for them to call it Negropont from it. Perhaps they might hear the Greeks say, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or is ton Egripon, or short, Ston Egripon; from which sound they might accommodate Negripon, or Negroponte, or the like, to their own Language, as is ordinary for both Francks and Turks to do of the Greek names, as I have often noted.

The City Egripus then is upon or hard by the place where Chalcis stood formerly; that is, on a Peninsula of the Island anciently called Euboea: and is there separated from Boeotia by a narrow streight: which is passed over first by a small Stone-Bridge of four or five Arches, to a little Tower built by the Venetians in the middle of the Chanel: from whence to the Town is a Draw-Bridge, no larger than to let a Gally pass thorough. The Walls of the Town are not above two Miles about: But there are more Buildings and People in the Suburbs of the Christians beyond, than in the City, where only Turks and Jews inhabit. The Turks have two Mosques within, and two without: where the Christians have also their Churches. The City is separated from the Suburbs by a deep Ditch; and the Inhabitants of both may amount, probably, to fourteen or fif∣teen thousand people. There are six or seven Families of the Francks among them; and a Seminary of Jesuits: who pretend to be there only to teach their Children; but withal, to do as much service to the Roman∣ists as they can.

This is the chief residence of the Captain Basha, or General of the Turkish Fleet, who is Governour both of this City and Island, and the Adja∣cent parts of Greece; having a Keiah, or Deputy under him. A Fleet of Gallies still lie here, to be ready upon all occasions to go out against the Pyrates, and those of Malta. His Palace is without the Town, upon the Shore, North-East off the Bridge: Fortified only by the Gallies fast∣ned to the shore above it. His Brother Achmet Basha lives in the Town, at the Palace, which was the residence of the Proveditore of the Veneti∣ans, before this Island was taken from them, by Mahomet the Second. This is situate on the shore on the Eastern-side of the Bridge, and therein we were shewed some Vaults, with secret Passages to go out with Boats to the Euripus: where the Proveditore of that unhappy time of the Fa∣mily Erizzo endeavoured to escape, but was discovered by Spies, taken, and most barbarously put to death by that Cruel Tyrant and Enemy to Christendom.

His fair Daughter, Signora Anna, though she had an equal share of her Fathers unhappy Fate, yet thereby purchased to her self such Glory as is worth many times the dying for. For she being courted to his Bed, by the offers of the Empire of the World, by the lure of Crowns and Scepters to tread on, to be made shine with all the glittering Jewels of the East, scorned and contemned them, chusing rather the bloody Pon∣yard than all that dazling Grandeur, with the impious and foul Embraces of that Incarnate Devil her Fathers Murderer. Insomuch that Mahomet being enraged to see his Lust, his Glory and his Power so mightily op∣posed and defeated by the Virtue of a tender and weak Virgin, drew out his Cimiter, and in his Fury hewed her all to pieces. Her Memory

is Sacred among the Venetians, and highly deserves to be Enroll'd among Glorious Martyrs.

On the Walls of this Palace we found an Inscription bearing date MCCLXXIII. which speaks of a work then begun in the Month of May 409. Years ago, and Dedicated to the Honour of God, and S^t Mark the Evangelist; by the Illustrious Nicolas Miliani Baiul of Negropont and his Counsellers Michael of Andros, and Peter Navaiarius. My Comrade thinks this was some Chappel, but I rather believe it was this Palace it self.

† ANNO AB INCARNATIONE DNI NRI IHV XPI
MILLE CCLXXIII MES MAIO HOC OPVS FEC.
INCHOARI NOBIL. VIR DNVS NICOLAVS
MLLIANI BAIVL. NIGROPONTIS ET EIVS CONSI
LARIIDNI MAHEL DE ANDRO ET PETRVSNAVAI
ARIO IN HONORE DEI ET BEATI MARCI EVAG.

By the Water on the same side of the City is an old Castle, where we were shewed among other great Guns several Mortar-pieces of such a prodigious Bore, as are capable to fling Stones of two Foot and three Inches Diameter.

Egripo is a place very well serv'd with all manner of Provisions, at very low rates. Mutton is scarce worth a penny a pound. Kids and Goats flesh not above an half-penny; Fish will not sell for more than a Far∣thing the pound. Wine is about two pence the Crondriry, that is, about our Wine-Gallon. Here also they make Sweetmeals of all sorts of Fruits, Quinces, Pears, Plums, Nuts, Wallnuts and Almonds for Sugar; they use Wine boil'd to a Syrup, and make them grateful enough to the tast; yet I believe they would hardly please some of our nice Ladies, unless, perhaps, because they were far fetch'd.

We should be extreamly to blame,* 1.58 if we had not endeavour'd to in∣form our selves, as much as possible, concerning the wonderful Ebbing and Flowing of the Euripus, so justly admired in all Ages, for one of the great wonders of the World. Our stay here was not long enough to ob∣serve all the various changings of its Tydes our selves: But I shall give you the best account of it I can, from the Informations we had from the Inhabitants and other ingenious men that have resided long there; and not content my self to tell you only, that it kept its Motion according to the Tydes of the Ocean, the two days I staid there, and observed it. The most exact account of it we had from the Jesuits, and that confirm'd by the Millers, who have Mills on it, and therefore by long experience and observation should know the truth best. They all agreed, that its Tydes were sometimes regular, and sometimes irregular, according to the different times of the Moon. But the Reverend Father Babin writ all the particulars of his Observations, in an ingenious Letter to his Friend, the Abbot Pecoil at Lyons: which I will not undertake wholly

to transcribe; but in short give you the sum of them, as followeth.

First he observeth, that this Ebbing and Flowing is perceived ten or a dozen Leagues off, on each side of the streight, in several little Bayes along the Shore, by the rising and falling of the Water.

Secondly, That its course may be considered as it is in divers times. For it is regular eighteen or nineteen dayes every Month, or rather every Moon, and eleven dayes irregular, or spoiled, according to the terms they use at Negropont, to explain this wonder of nature.

It is regular from the three last dayes of the old Moon to the eighth of the New. The ninth it is irregular, and continues so till the thirteenth inclusively. The fourteenth it recovereth it self again till the one and twentieth exclusively, when it begins again to be irregular until the twenty seventh: as it will be more easie to understand by the following Table.

A TABLE OF THE Flowing and Ebbing of the EƲRIPƲs, ac∣cording to the Days of the Moon.

New Moon	1.	Regular accord∣ing to the Ocean
	2.
	3.
	4.
	5.
	6.
	7.
Second quarter	8.	Irregular having 12, 13, or 14 Flowings, & as many Ebbings in 24, or 25 ho.
	9.
	10.
	11.
	12.
	13.
Full Moon	14.	Regular as the Ocean having two Flowings and two Eb∣bings.
	15.
	16.
	17.
	18.
	19.
	20.
	21.	Irregular.
Last quarter	22.
	23.
	24.
	25.
	26.
	27.	Regular as the Ocean.
	28.
	29.

The dayes that it is Irregular, it flows and ebbs, eleven, twelve, thir∣teen, and sometimes fourteen times in the space of four, or five and twenty hours, as the Father saith, he hath observ'd himself, and was assured by those that keep the Mills, and see the Wheels of them change very often every day, according to the different course of the Water. The Tyde therefore changeth here, not only seven times a day, as the anci∣ents did report, but a great many times more. For he saith, he staid at one time an hour and half, and saw it change his course three times, al∣though the Wind blew pretty hard against it. In these days the rising of the Water is about half an hour, and the falling about three quarters: But the days that it is Regular, it observes the same Rules, according to the Moon, as the Ocean and Venetian Gulph doth; that is to say, that in four or five and twenty hours, it hath two Flowings in, and as many Eb∣bings out, loseth near an hour every day, and is six hours mounting one way, and as many going back the other way. Thus it doth Winter and Summer, in high Winds and calm Weather.

The differences he observed between its both Regular and Irregular Tydes, and those of the Ocean are these. The Euripus at High Water

riseth ordinarily but a foot, or little more, and very seldom reacheth to two feet: Whereas the Ocean, in many places on the European shores, riseth eighty Cubits high, although in the Isles of America he observed it to rise no higher than in the Euripus.

The second difference that he observ'd, was, that the Ocean, when it Ebbs, retireth towards the full Sea; and when it flows, or riseth higher, it runs towards the Coasts. But the Euripus observes another Rule. For its rising Water is, when it runs towards the Isles of the Archipelago, where the Sea is greatest: and its Falling, or Ebb, when it runs towards Thes∣saly, that is, Northwards.

Between the Ebbing and Flowing of Euripus is a little space of time, wherein the Water seems to stand still: insomuch that Feathers or Straws cast on it cannot be perceiv'd to move in calm weather upon the surface of the Water; all these Observations this ingenious Father assures us he often made aboard the Vessels lying in the Harbour; where he had li∣berty to do it when, as often, and as long a time as he pleased. He pro∣ceeds also to make an ingenious Discourse concerning the Opinions of the ancients touching Euripus, and the causes of its various and irregular Motions; for satisfaction herein I refer my Reader to him: adding only that I observed, the Chanel of the Euripus here maketh such a turn, that its course from the Bridge runneth South-South-West, which is towards Attica and the Islands of the Archipelago; and the other towards Thessalo∣nica, and Constantinople, North-North-East.

On Monday the sixth of March 1676. we left Egripo, and arrived at Thebes after about six hours riding. In the way we passed over an indif∣ferent high Mountain, about two Miles from Egripo,* 1.59 called now Typo∣vouni: But I believe anciently Messapius Mons. From the highest place in the passage over it, we observed Egripo, East by North. The furthest part we could see of the Island Euboea, North; and the way to Thepes, which was before us, South-West. About midway we left another Hill on our right hand; which I believe was anciently called Teumessus: but the present name thereof is Asomata,* 1.60 so called from a Monastery of that name situated on it: though in old time it had Micalessus either on it, or very nigh unto it. By it I also observ'd the passage over Typovouni was East-North East, and Thebes in a streight line before us, West-South-West. Proceeding a little further we crossed a small stream, that I guess was called by Pausanias, Thermodon: which he saith, passed by the Mountain Hypatus, lying towards the River Cephisus, part of which pas∣sing formerly through the Theban Lake, came this way, taking Thermodon along with it about two hours riding off the right hand.

The next day early we parted from Thebes, and came to Livadia in the Evening, by the same way we had done before to Thebes from Liva∣dia, when we first came into Greece. The next day we parted from Li∣vadia Northward: and about an hour after passed the River, that I be∣fore said, riseth between Mount Parnassus and Cirphis, and runs this way,* 1.61 being probably that which is by Strabo called Triton. Hard by this place it joineth with another Stream coming from Livadia, which was called Hercyna. After this we went over a small Mountain, which I guess to be that Strabo calls Acontium,* 1.62 for it seems to be a Ridge derived from Mount Parnassus. From Acontium we descended into a large Plain, where

we passed three Rivers; and after five or six hours riding from Livadia we came to Turco-chorio.* 1.63 The first of those three Rivers is pretty large and deep, being called Maronero, or Black-water: whence it is easie to guess it is the same that in times past was called Melas, which signifies the same thing, that is, Black: and agrees very well with the situation Strabo gives it; to wit, that it descendeth from the Mountains of Phocis, as this doth.* 1.64 The third is a small stream, and may well enough be thought that, he calleth Charadrus, which falleth into the Cephisus; undoubtedly the last of these Rivers, having a large and deep stream watering the Plain in its course Westwards, running between Parnassus South, and Oeta Mons North: From whose Ridges where they meet bearing North-Westwards from Turcochorio,* 1.65 its Fountain should rise at an ancient Town called Lilaea. We passed the Cephisus by a stone Bridge not far from Tur∣chocorio, which is a small Village of Turks, and some few Christians, seated in the middle of the spacious Plain above-mentioned. It hath the high Mountains of Olta, and the Thermopylae, about two hours riding North: and those of Parnassus as much to the South. The highest Point of Par∣nassus is seen hence South by West, and is called now Heliocoro, or as my Camerade saith, Lycoura: I rather believe it Heliocoro, as it was told me from an observation I made at Turco-chorio; which was this. I rose be∣fore it was light the next Morning after our coming thither, and walking out I observed, that the Sun shined on the Snow, which lay upon the top of the Mountain, a good while before it was broad-day light in the Plain. But either one or the other may be but a corruption of the more ancient and true name Lycorea.

In the Kan, where we Lodged, were many ancient Pillars and Frag∣ments of Antiquity, as also about the Village: so that it is probable, the place was considerable in times past, though now it be reduced to almost nothing. The nearness to the River, which I suppose to be the Cephisus, makes me believe it was some Town of the Locri Epicnemides, to which and Phocis that River was the ancient bounds.

This was the unlucky place, where we received News, that the Moun∣tains were so covered with Snow that they were unpassable, and might continue so for a Month, or six Weeks longer: Which made my Came∣rade make a sudden resolution to stay no longer for the Weather; but to return with all the speed he could make by Zant and Venice into his own Country: which resolution of his I could no ways hinder by all the reasons I could give him to the contrary. Indeed to stay there, at such a miserable place, was neither convenient nor agreeable. But we might, in the mean time, have gone and seen some other places of the Adjacent Countries, not unworthy our pains, and that not far out of our way; for as I then believed, and afterwards found to be true, we might have passed another way, more to the Sea-side, and under the Mountains. For my self, I must confess, I could not so soon be reconciled to the Sea, in such bad weather, and that Season of the Year, to comply with him there∣in, therefore though with a great deal of unwillingness, after a few days staying there, we parted from Turco-chorio different wayes. He, with Morates our Druggerman, passing by Dalia, a Town at the foot of Parnassus, on the North-Eastside of it, about five or six Miles from Liva∣dia, (where the Fountain of Melas, or the River Maronero riseth; and

from thence by Distomo to Asprospiti, where he Embarqued for Zant and Venice, and from thence returned home to Lyons: I, on the con∣trary, going towards Thalanda, and the Mouth of the River Cephisus, with a resolution, after I had more particularly informed my self of Boe∣otia, to return again to Athens.

Thursday the ninth of March, being thus separated from my Compa∣nion, I left Turco-chorio, bending my course Eastwards, to go to Tha∣landa. The first thing that diverted me in that solitary condition was, that I soon found my self on a long streight way, fortified with a deep Ditch on each side, leading to certain Hills, which I saw a good way off be∣fore me. This I took as a good Omen, portending success to my Under∣takings, it seeming to admonish me, that I should not fail to be guarded by Gods good Providence, so long as I travelled in the streight way of Virtue and true Piety, to my Heavenly Country, which is on high. This way is raised high, seeming to have been anciently paved, about ten or a dozen Yards broad, and was most probably in times past a Roman Via Fossa. I continued on it about an hour and half, until I came to the foot of the Hill, that lay directly before us. Here the way ending, we saw the Ruins of an old Town, with a little Castle belonging to it, seated upon a Rock. Afterwards, ascending the Hill, near the top of it, we saw some old ruinous Churches, and about two hours further riding, we came by Noon to a Village called Calopodia.* 1.66 The top of this Hill is well cultivated, and planted with Vineyards, especially near about the Vil∣lage: But we found no good Wine there; although the good Woman, whose House we alighted at, was at that time Visited by a near Relation of hers, who stayed to dine with her. The Cheer she made her Friend, was indeed no more than mean; but the Welcome she expressed was very grateful, hearty, and Christian-like; and the chief Ceremony of Civility, which she used towards her Relation at Dinner was this; when we were set down, having baked her Bread upon the Hearth, she brought it whole as it was, and presents it to her Guest: who received it, kissing her hands, and then breaking it, restored it her again to be distributed about the Table. We met with no occasion here to stay us long after Dinner: So being quickly again on our way, as we passed out of Town, we observ'd many Ruins and ancient Foundations of Buildings on our right hand; particularly of a Temple built of white Marble; the Pillars whereof were Channel'd: but of what Order they were we could not find. We continued yet about three hours upon the same Mountain, up-hill and down-hill, till we came at length to the brow of it: which gave us the prospect of the Isle Euboea, the Sea, and of a fair Plain, stretched out a great length to the North-West and South-East; and is in breadth to the Seawards at least half a dozen Miles. The Sea here maketh a large Gulf between the firm Land and the Island; it being the Sea of Locris, as may easily be gathered out of Strabo: and the most Northern Promon∣tory of Euboea appearing from thence, as lying North-North-East. This Plain should be well tilled and peopled, from the many Villages which from this prospect appear strewed up and down upon it.* 1.67 The more Nor∣thern part of this Mountain should be Mount Cnemis; from whence the Locri of this Country were called Locri Epicnemides: But the Southern side of it, which seems to be but a Ridge of the greater Mountain, and

runneth along between the Lake of Libadia, this Plain, and the Sea; is more likely hereabouts to have been called Cirtonum mons.* 1.68 Hence also, beyond this Gulph Northwards, a great way off I discovered vast high Mountains, cover'd with Snow: which I took to be the famous Olympus of Thessaly. Descending this Hill into the Plain, there is a little stream coming out of it, which to me seems to be the ancient River Platanius, which of old separated Boeotia from Locris, at the Town Hala, as Pau∣sanias affirmeth, and Strabo seems to intimate: where after having spoken of Anthidon, the last Town of Boeotia on that shore, as Homer makes it, he says, that nevertheless going further, there are two other Towns, viz. Larimna, by which the River Cephisus runneth into the Sea; and going yet further this Hala, bearing the same name with those of Attica. The place is corrupted, as the Learned Casaeubon observ'd, but I wonder he did not observe where the mistake lay. For the Copists have written 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 instead of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as is evident out of Pausanias, and the very place it self. For Strabo, having before spoken of two Towns, whereof Larimna was one, why should he put 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 in the plural number for the other Town, without adding its proper name? But Strabo adds also 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 which demonstrates, that he wrote 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and not 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: of which name there were two Towns in the Country of Attica. But undoubtedly both Larimna and Halai here mentioned belonged in more ancient times to the Locri Opuntii, as may be easily shewed out of Pausanias.

Being descended into the Plain, we kept the Mountain on our right hand, and in about half an hours riding more, we came to a Town si∣tuated on the brow of it,* 1.69 called Thalanda. This is yet a large Town, and hath been incomparably greater in ancient times, as the Ruins for about a Mile out of Town, and the many old Churches and Towers that stand far above it on the Hill, do manifest. It is much too big, to be taken for the Village Hala, that Pausanias places on the right hand of the River Platanius upon the Sea shore; bearing the face of the Metropolitan City of a Country: which if I understand Strabo aright, can be no other than that famous City Opus of the ancients, which gave name to the Country, and Sea before it;* 1.70 viz. Locri Opuntii, and Sinus Opuntius. My Reasons for it are these. First, The distance that Strabo placeth it from the Sea: which is about two Miles, or fifteen Stadia. But the little Island that he speaks of before it, called then Atalanta, but now without a name; puts it out of question: And thence I guess the Town that now is, hath bor∣rowed its present name, time, and so many Ages intervening, having de∣voured its first Letter A, and new-modelled the rest after the Greek pro∣nunciation. For they write it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: but pronounce it Thalanda. T. after N, being still pronounced like D. And as to the Town Halae it might have been at the Mouth of the River; which in its course may bend more Eastwards, and so make the bounds of Boeotia and Locris: all that fruitful Plain between Thalanda and the Mountain Knemis,* 1.71 was, in all probability, that 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the happy plain, of which that Author speaks.

This Town may contain five or six thousand Souls, of Greeks, Jews and Turks, and is a Bishoprick subject to the See of Athens. My Guide being alone with me, was so timerous here, that he would not go up

and down the Town, as in other places we had used to do, for fear we should be taken for Spies: So that, as to what particulars of Antiquity remain here, and might have been observ'd by us, had we used our won∣ted liberty, I can at present give no account. We parted hence the next Morning Eastwards still under the Hill; The Plain growing now more and more narrow, between the Sea and the Mountains; in which man∣ner it held us about two hours riding, until we came to a little Bay, in∣to which there runneth five or six large Streams. They run from under the Mountain hard by; and turn four Mills under the Wheels, not full thirty Yards from their Sources: They come out from the Lake of Liva∣dia, hard by the Town of Polea, which is on the other side of this Hill, by the Lake, as I was afterwards informed. From thence our way, lying South-Eastwards, was rough, up-hill and down-hill, until about Noon we came to a Town called Proscina upon the same Hill.* 1.72 This Town con∣sists of about an hundred Houses of Christians for the most part; and seems an ancient place, being very probably that, which in Strabo's and Pausanias his time was called Acraephium, or Acraephnium,* 1.73 which was si∣tuated upon the Mountain Ptoos. After Dinner we mounted again up higher, according as our Road lay, over a well-cultivated Country on the Hills: which I doubt not, but in old time made the Plain of Athamas: nor can the Wooded Hills above them, be thought to want chace more now than they did of old. After three hours riding from Proscina we came to the other side of the Hill; to many of the Subterraneous Passa∣ges of the Lake of Livadia into the Sea;* 1.74 which they call Katabathra and Catabathos: our way hither lying still South.

These Subterraneous, or rather Submontaneous Passages of the Water, may very well be reckoned amongst the greatest Wonders of the World; to accomplish which, both Art and Nature seem to have been so indu∣strious, that it is hard to determine unto which of them we ought to give the glory of the work. For here Art seems to excel nature; and yet the greatness of the work is such, that it seems no less apparently to ex∣cell the power of human industry. Therefore since our Modern Writers are upon this matter wholly silent, and from the ancients so slender an account of it is come down to us as is altogether unintelligible; I shall be the more particular in my Observations of it, and shall give the best ac∣count of it I can.

Which that I may do to be the better understood, I shall first give an account of the situation of the Lake, and the Plain in which it is stagna∣ted, and then of the several Passages out of the Water of the Lake into the Euboean Sea.

This Lake is now called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Lake of Livadia, but by Strabo Copais, and by Pausanias Cephissis. It is situate on the North-side of that large Plain, which is call'd by the same name of Livadia, which is stretched out between the Plain of Thebes and the Town Liva∣dia: the whole Perimeter of which Country and Lake is so encompassed with high Hills and Mountains, so joined one to another, that there is not so much as space for the many streams and torrents that arise under, and fall from them to pass out above ground into the Sea: So that had not the Wisdom of the Creator provided at several places certain subter∣raneous Passages, as Chanels to receive and suck in the Waters, which in

so great abundance, at times, do flow and pour down these Mountains, and were not those Chanels either by nature, or art, and industry of men kept open and cleansed, all Boeotia must necessarily in a short space of time be drowned, and made nothing but a great Lake, or standing Wa∣ter. For beginning first at Parnes, that Mountain is join'd to Cithaeron, Cithaeron is join'd to Helicon, Helicon to Parnassus, Parnassus to Mount Oeta, that to Cnemis, Cnemis to the Cyrtonum Mons, That to Ptoos, Ptoos to Messapius, Messapius to Cerycius, and that again to Parnes: Which Mountains, although all, or most of them be well enough distinguished from each other by certain Chasms or Openings between them, yet are they all so tacked and link'd together by High-Grounds, that before the Waters could find Passage any way into the Sea above ground, the whole Country below them must unavoidably be drowned: which perhaps was one great reason of Deucalions Flood, in which these parts seem chiefly concerned.

But beside this Circle of Mountains that encompass all Boeotia, Phocis, and great part of Locris, there are other Mediterranean Mountains also, which are tacked to one another in such sort that they divide the whole Country into several particular Vallies; which from a high prospect look as if they were those places in the Earth, the Gyants laid open when in their War with the Gods they plucked up Mountains by the Roots, and set them upon one another, intending to scale Heaven thereby. For so is this Plain of Livadia divided from that of Thebes, Eastward by the Moun∣tain Phoenicius, or Sphingis; which joins Northwards to the Mountain Ptoos, Southwards to certain Ridges which descend from Helicon.

From those high Mountains, Helicon South-West, Parnassus and Oeta North-West, are poured down those quantities of Waters into this Plain; which stagnating, make the great Lake of Livadia, by falling towards the Ridge of the Rocky Hills of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons; against which the whole stress and fall of the Waters seems to lean; but are by them, as by a mighty Mound or Bank, kept in from discharging themselves in∣to the Euboean Sea.

Strabo counts this Lake no less than three hundred seventy one Stadia in Circumference; which amounts to about forty seven Miles and a half. But I believe it covers not so much ground at present. For then, in his time, it had one passage out above ground, into Hylica palus, now cal∣led the Theban Lake: But now the Waters are far lower than that Passage; and therefore are to be thought very much abated. The form of this Lake is long, being stretched out under the Mountains of Tha∣landa, or Cyrtonum Mons, North-West and South-East, as far as the Mountain Ptoos. In the middle it is narrow, but then enlarging it self again until it comes to be divided at the South-East end, into three se∣veral Bayes: At the two Northmost of these Bays are the principal Cha∣nels, in a wonderful manner pierced through the Mountains: The whole mass whereof consists of a very hard stone, considerably high and of a great extent in thickness, though in some places it be greater, and in others less; the shortest Passage to the Sea being towards Thalanda, and the North-West end of the Lake is at least four Miles through the Moun∣tain. Where this enters in, under the Mountain, is a Town called Pa∣lea, situate towards the North-West end of the Lake: where it riseth

again on the other side near the Sea, are those Mills I but now spake of, about two hours riding from Thalanda. This seems to be the place, which Strabo calls Anchoe, where the Town of Copais was also situated; that gave the old name to this Lake: and by the same rule on the Sea side, where the Waters come out of the Lake, should lye Larimna Superior, or that of Locris: where Strabo makes the Chanels to pass thirty Stadia, or about four Miles, under ground from Copais to Larimna. The other Chanels I saw on the North-West end of the Lake, are all a much greater distance from the Sea, many of them passing at least half a days Journey under the Mountain Ptoos. The Northmost of the two Bayes last men∣tioned, divides it self again into three Bayes: the first of which entreth under the Mountain by two Chanels: the second and third by three Chanels apiece. Another Bay also there is, that divideth it self into many other little Bays, and those again into Chanels: Insomuch that I easily believe what an Albanese, I met there, told me; to wit, that there were at least fifty of these under-ground Chanels, whereby the Lake emptieth it self into the Sea. For I saw above half the number of them my self. From Proscina hither, a considerable part of our way lay along one of those Chanels, in several places of which we saw holes down to it; but could neither see nor hear the Water, as it passed, by reason the Chanel was every where close covered, and much deeper. When we came to ascend the steeper part of the Mountain, we passed by ten or a dozen square Stone-Pits about a Furlong distant one from another; which I found still deeper and deeper according to the rising of the Mountain; until by the sound of the Stones I cast in, I could not judge them less than fifty Fathom deep; but I heard no sound of Water at the bottom: The reason whereof I found because the Chanel, which carries the Water, lyeth covered deeper under them. They are about four foot square a piece at the Mouth, and cut out of the hard Rock of the Mountain. From all which I began to be sensible of the vast labour, cost, and inde∣fatigable industry, that brought the whole work to such perfection. For by such Pits as these the rest of the fifty Chanels were first made, if made at all, and are now upon occasion cleansed, when ever they happen to be obstructed. Pausanias saith, that the ancients believed that Hercules made this Lake by turning the River Cephisus into the Plain of the Orcho∣meni; whereas before his time it past into the Sea by Chanels under the Mountains: I rather believe, that Hercules stopped the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Passage under the Mountain; which the Orchomeni opened again after∣wards; for that in Pausanias his own opinion seems very unlikely, be∣cause the Orchomeni, in the time of the Trojan Wars were the most po∣tent and rich of all those parts of Greece. But to me it seems altogether impossible, for supposing the Cephisus had another way under ground than where the Lake stands, which to me is no way probable. Yet there are abundance of other streams falling from the Helicon and Parnassus, sufficient to make this Lake, and drown the Country without that. But how ever this was, I am sure the greatness and difficulty of the work was such, that there was more need of an Army of Hercules's to have done it, than of one single person to spoil it. But by aid of which of the Gods, or by what mean it was perform'd I find not. I have seen none of the Roman Works greater, nor any thing in nature or art more worthy of admiration.

From the Northmost of these Bayes, where this Chanel entreth into the Mountain, I observed, that the highest point of Parnassus lay West-North-West: Some part of the Helicon, not covered by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis, West.

South, and South-Westward of these two Bayes, about six or seven Miles distant, there is another Bay of the Lake divided from these by a Ridge or Promontory, running out from the Mountain Ptoos: which Ridge is now called Cocino, from a Town on it of the same name. Near, or at the end of this Bay, the Mountain, which the ancients seem to call Phoenicius, or Sphingis, is joined to that of Cocino, only there is one narrow slit between them; which I judge can be no other than that only Passage of the Lake above ground into the Hylica palus, mention'd by Strabo Lib. IX. But at present no Water passeth that way above ground; nor, as I could perceive, under ground: yet there hath been an old Chanel under this gap, that is tumbled in, and now, as far as I could guess, quite stopped up. This Gap, or Passage, was also cut thorough the hard Rock, for a Mile or two, to bring it to the Theban Lake: which without doubt was the same with Hylica palus of the Ancients: of which I will next give an account in its due place.

From these Catabathra, as they call them, or Chanels under-ground, we were conducted about three or four Miles South-Westwards, up to the Village Cocino,* 1.75 on the Ridge of the Mountain that bears the same name. Hard by it I was shewed some ruined Churches, with two or three old Towns lying in the same condition; among the ruins whereof were some few pieces of Antiquity. Passing between these ruins and Cocino, I observ'd a Spring in the Mountain that waters the whole Town. The Inhabitants of this Village are all Albaneses; and, I believe I bely them not, the whole place little better than a Nest of Thieves, of which our Landlord was the Chief. For at Midnight there was Intelligence brought him by some of his Gang, that they had stollen a Horse, desiring his advice how to dispose of it; which our Guide understanding, gave us notice thereof, wishing us to stand on our Guard: which we did, keeping our Carabins close to our sides: But our Guide, I believe, had made them well nigh as much afraid of us, as we were of them. For our Host having been very inquisitive to know of him who I was, he made him believe (as these Greeks never want invention to help themselves out at a dead lift) that I was Scrivan, or Secretary to the Captain Basha of the Negropont. As to the ancient name of this place I can find no traces in ancient Authors to inform me.

The next Morning we parted from thence early, and turning about the side of the Mountain, whose top we always kept at our right hand, in half in hours time we came to a narrow Passage between the Moun∣tain Ptoos, and this Ridge of it now called Cocino; which gave us a fair prospect over the Lake of Thebes: which so soon as I saw, I alighted off my Horse, and climb'd up to the highest point of Cocino, to take the bet∣ter prospect of it, and Copais Lacus together; finding them so near to each other: which although it cost me no small quantity of the sweat of my Brows; yet I found it well worth my pains. For it gave me not only the prospect of both the Lakes together, but of much of the Country about them. I found the Catabathra on the other side of the Mountain,

North off me, and the Theban Lake on the opposite side South. The highest point of the Mountain over Thalanda, North-West by West; of Parnassus West-North-West. The beginning of Helicon, now called Za∣gara, West; where it joins with Cithaeron South-West. Thence South∣wards join Cithaeron and Parnes; which divide Attica from Boeotia. Hence I took the Scheme of both the Lakes as I have given you them in the Map. Of Copais I have already spoken: But of this of Thebes, or Hylica Palus, I shall now give you the Description.

This Lake is now called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Theban Lake;* 1.76 but anci∣ently Hylica palus. It is much less than that of Copais, and is inclosed with Mountains round about it. It is distinguished from Copais North, by the Mountain Cocino, and West by the Mountain Phoenicius, or Sphin∣gis: between which two it had formerly Communication with Copais, as I before said, but now I could find none. The Mountain Ptoos lyeth North-East of it; Mount Hypatus between it and Thebes South, and South-East: between which it findeth its way into the Sea, Northward of the Euripus: But whether wholly above-ground, I am not able to determine. From this Hill it seems like the leaf of some Plant; whereof its several Bayes are the divisions of the leaf, and the Chanel that runs Eastward out of it, looks like the stem. It seems not more long than large, and is about four or five Miles over. Great part of the Lake was then covered with all sorts of Wild-Fowl, and they say 'tis full of Fish: notwithstanding they tell a story, that every thirtieth or one and thirti∣eth Year it is quite dried up: From what hath been said, those that have good skill in the Greek Tongue, may be able to understand that very defective place in Strabo, where he speaks of these two Lakes, and restore it again.

When I returned again down the Mountain to my Guide, I found my Caravochero almost in despair of my returning again safe to him, fearing I had been set upon by some of the Albaneses of the Mountains. But thanks be to God it was otherwise: Descending therefore together from that passage, yet somewhat lower, we came to the Ruins of a Town, hear unto which, on the side of the Hill we observed a curious Fountain, run∣ning down thence into the Thebane Lake. This Town might be the an∣cient Hyla, which gave name to the Lake.* 1.77 Here also I found some frag∣ments of Inscriptions; but such as gave me no hint of the ancient name of it: Descending yet lower down the Mountain, towards the Lake, leaving the way to Thebes on the left hand, and turning under the Moun∣tain Cocino, which we kept at our right, we came in less than an hour to a small Village called Hungaro, just by the old Passage of Cephisus,* 1.78 into the Hylica palus, according to Strabo: When I had made all my Obser∣vations of it, according to what I have before said, by a very ill way Southwards we mounted up the Hill, now called Mazaraci,* 1.79 from a Mo∣nastery that is on it of like name. This is that Hill, or Mountain, which Strabo describes by the name Phoenicius, and Pausanias by the name of Sphingis mons. On the top of it is a good large Plain which lyeth desart; rather, as I judge, for want of Cultivation than of fertility. Thence after Dinner, and an hours further riding, we descended by the Covent Mazaraci into the Plain of Thebes, leaving a ruined Village about a Mile Eastward of Mazaraci. We might soon have crossed over this end of

the Plain, it being narrow, had not the Water after the Rains setled there, and made the ground so false and rotten, that we feared almost every step to be swallowed up both Horse and Man together; to pre∣vent which we went afoot our selves. But having, by Gods help, esca∣ped that danger, and crossed the way from Thebes to Livadia, we ascen∣ded again another Hill, bounding the Plain of Thebes, from the Plain of Rimocastri Southwards, and came to Rimocastri on the other side of it, an hour before Night.

I made a stop on the top of this Hill,* 1.80 and surveighed the Country about me. For thence I had the sight of a great part of Boeotia, that I had not before seen: especially the Plain of Rimocastri. But those parts I left behind, I observed to lie thus. The Mountain by Thalanda North North-West. The Passage between the Mountains from Cocino and the rest of Ptoos, North-East by North. A Mountain towards Egripo, I think Typo-Vouni, East-North-East. Chasha, or Parnes, East-South-East. Elatea, or Cithaeron, beginneth South-East, and descendeth somewhat upon the Corinthian Gulph; to wit on the Bay of that Gulph, called now Liva∣dostro, South, South-West. Whence ariseth a high Rock, off from it, and Helicon West, South-West. The top of the Helicon appears hence, West by North, being the nearest.

Rimocastri is situated upon the Brow of this Hill, over-looking a large Plain South, and hath an unlimited prospect towards the Morea, between Helicon and Cithaeron. It is divided into three little knots of Houses, two upon the Hill, and one below: which may in all consist of about a hun∣dred Cottages of Greeks and Albaneses: all Christians except a Sub-Basha that governs them, who is a Turk. That part of the Town which stands upon the point of the Brow, seemeth to have been in former times forti∣fied with a Ditch on the North-side: on the other, the Precipice of the Hill is its defence; though at present needless: their Poverty being secu∣rity enough for them. Here it is that I drank the best Wine, the most generous and well tasted that I had done in all Greece.

In this Plain are many ancient Ruins of Towns, and about this place, and just under the Mountain, are so many and great Ruins, that it hath made some to suppose this place to have been the ancient Thespia: But I am not of their opinion. I think rather it was the ancient Thisba, as I shall have occasion by and by again more expresly to conclude, shewing by most probable Testimony, where the old Thespia was. Here I met with Morat our Druggerman; who brought me news, that he had seen my Companion safely Embarked. Whereupon taking Horse the next day I made a Circuit about the Plain, bending my course Westwards, under the Hill; and after about a Mile we came to some Ruins, and old decay∣ed Churches,* 1.81 called Phria: where we also found some Inscriptions; es∣pecially one, which was a Pedestal, dedicated by the Town to one Titus Flavius Aristus. About a Mile further riding, we came to another ruin∣ated Town called Spatharia; the Church whereof, ruinated in like man∣ner with the Town, seem'd to have been built at first of ancient, ill car∣ved Marbles, with Basso-relievoes of the same, of men on Horse-back, with their names, and ΗΡΩΗ for title to each one of them. Thence turning more South-Westwards, we passed over by a Stone-Bridge, a River coming from the Helicon, and running Eastwards in this Plain, and

about two Miles further came to a Village called Neocoria, or New-town; just at the foot of the Mountain Zagara, or Helicon: hard by which are the Ruins of an ancient City, upon a Hill, with a steep descent from it every way except on that side where it is joined to the high Mountain above it. In the way going up to it is a ruined Church; which hath for the Altar a Cornish of a Pedestal of a Statue, about four foot long, and three foot large, and a foot thick: on the edge of which is an ancient Inscription, wherein the Town Thespia is twice mentioned.

ΘΕΣΠΙΩΝ ΟΙ ΠΑΙΔΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΟΙΚΟΝ ... ΠΡΜΑ......
ΟΜΕΝΩΝ ΕΝ ΩΕΣΠΙΑΙΣ ΠΡΩΤΟΓΕΝΩΝ ΑΡΩΤΑ∣ΧΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΚΡΙΣ..ΠΑΤΕ∣ΡΑ ΚΑΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ Ν.

Whence, because it likewise agrees with the Description Pausanias gives of it, I doubt not, but this was the Seat of the ancient Thespia.* 1.82 It is about four Miles distant from Rimocastri Westwards, and five or six from Cacos, a Town seated in one of the Bayes of the Corinthian Gulph, called now Livadostro. Thence we turned South-East-wards, and after two or three Miles riding over a little Hill, we came to other Ruins of a Town called Palaeo-corio, or Old Town; where we likewise found some Inscriptions, but less considerable.

Thence returning Eastwards we passed by another little Village called Tadza, where are some marks of Antiquity; and by it a curious Foun∣tain, which I guess to be that which was so celebrated in old times for the Fable of Narcissus: and if so, the Town should have been called Do∣nacon,* 1.83 or Hedonacon as some read it. I saw no Narcissus then growing, it being yet too early in the Year. But another time I saw abundance in the next Plain, and several other places adjacent. Yet what Pausanias saith of this Fountain agreeth with several other places in this Plain; es∣pecially Rimocastri; where there are many Springs up and down the Plain: which collecting themselves into streams, some run towards the Theban Lake, and others to the Corinthian Gulph. That which runs to∣wards Thebes, stagnates into a Lake, Eastwards of Rimocastri, as I saw at two or three Miles distance. We returned by the Ruins under Rimo∣castri, which they call now only Castri, where there are many Ruined Churches, with Fragments of Inscriptions about them. Amongst which I found a Stone in the Wall, where I read ΠΡΑΞΙΤΙΛΗΣ ΑΘΗΝΑ, which whether it was belonging to some piece of that famous Sculpture, I will not take upon me to know. Only this I can say, that Pausanias gives an account of an Image of Cupid, of his work, adored and much admi∣red by the Thespians: in whose Territories not only this place was, but also the whole Plain. As to the ancient names of this, and the rest of the Ruined Towns I saw there, I found not sufficient ground for me to determine any thing here; yet by Pausanias his Description, this should be Thisba of the ancients; which he placeth off from the Sea,* 1.84 after two Mountains in a Vally. For so many Hills, which the Greeks often magni∣fied into Mountains, are between it and the Corinthian Gulph, and be∣tween those two Hills another small Plain.

When I had thus far crossed the Country, I had a great mind to con∣tinue

still forward, until I came to the Corinthian Gulph, that I might have a fuller Idaea of it. But I had much ado to perswade my Drugger∣man to it: who pretended it to be dangerous by reason of Thieves and Pirates. But by means of a Dollar extraordinary I accomplished my de∣sign, and perswaded our Host to accompany us also. We passed over the Plain of Rimocastri South-Westwards, and mounted a Hill, which sepa∣rates it from another little Plain, bounded by Mount Cithaeron. From this Plain we yet further descended along the Cithaeron, by a bad way Westwards to the Bay of Livadostro; along by a stream, which often loseth it self among the Sand and Stones in its Chanel, before it can get to the Sea. There is no Town, nor Inhabitants there; only an old Tower, and a little Church for the Mariners to do their Devotions in, who come thither to lade Corn for Zant, Cephalonia, and those other parts. In our way we first passed by a little Village called Sta dendra, or The Trees; and then another called Parapagia: where I found some Inscriptions in an old Church, near unto a Fountaia. This place, I believe, was anci∣ently called Leuctra. For that was in the way from Thespia to Plataea, as this must needs be. This Port is in a large Bay at the end of the Corin∣thian Gulph: which I find no where mention'd in the modern Maps. The reason of which, as I guess, may be several mistakes the Interpreters and Commentators have made upon Strabo: of which I may have occa∣sion to speak something, before I end this Discourse.

This Bay is divided from the Bay of Corinth by the Mountain Gera∣nia, or Palaeo-Vouni, in the sthmus, which running out far into the Co∣rinthian Gulph,* 1.85 makes a Promontory, which Strabo plainly calls Olmeae Promontorium: on the Northside of which this Bay of Livadostro lyeth, and thence goeth far inward, until it is bounded by the shore of Megaris first, and then by the shore of Eleutherus, whence it turneth about, and hath some part of the high Mountain Elatea, or Cithaeron, over-looking it North; until it comes almost to the Harbour of Livadostro. Where Ela∣tea endeth, is another Harbour, called Santo Basilio, from a Ruined Town two or three Miles above it: whence ariseth another Ridge of high Rocks, but not considerable for height if compared with Elatea; beyond which is the Harbour of Livadostro: and then again riseth ano∣ther very high Rock, running a good way into the Sea: Beyond which is also another Harbour,* 1.86 and Town called Cacos: and thence the Helicon begins to lift up its head, till at last it reacheth even above the Clouds. From Livadostro we turned to the left hand along the shore, about a Mile further, and came to the Harbour of Sant Basilio; whence the Promontory Olmea lyeth West-South-West, with four little Islands by it, called Calanisia, or the good Islands. In one of them is a little Church, and a Well, as the Abbaneses told me, full of a kind of Serpents, which are not at all venemous nor hurtful; which I believe, if they be of the same nature with one I found on the Sea shore here, viz. petrified.

This Bay did not want a name among the ancients, although neglect∣ed by our modern Geographers, as may be collected out of Strabo his eighth and ninth Books,* 1.87 being by him called Alcyonum mare: which was, as he said, extended from Paga, a Port Town of Megaris, in the way from Megara to Boeotia unto Creusa, the Port-Town of the Thespians. But I will take the Learned Casuubons warning, which he gives in his Com∣mentary

upon this place; namely not to take it to be the sole Alcyonuma mare. For that, as to the generality of the name, was extended much further, even to Antirrhium, or the Mouth of the Gulph of Lepanto: But, by his leave, will esteem this to have been more peculiarly so cal∣led; that being, certainly, most properly the Alcyonum sinus, or mare, which extended it self from Pegas to Creusa: Which Creusa must un∣doubtedly have been either where Cacos or Livadostro now are. I judge rather the first, because it is nearer to Thespia than Livadostro. But Liva∣dostro is nearer Rimocastri; where I suppose the ancient Thisba was: and therefore that may be its Harbour, so well stored with Pidgeons as they say it was; and whence to Sicyon was a hundred and sixty Stadia, or twenty Miles, over the Corinthian Gulph; and as he saith, in an oblique line: of which the high Rock between this and Cacos makes one Crook, and the Olmaea Promontory another. The Harbour of S^t Basilio was, very probably, that which belonged to the ancient Typha; who valued themselves much for being the best Seamen of all Boeotia. At this place we lay all Night under the shade of a Pine-Tree; with which the Rocks there are covered.

Longer than next Morning we staid not in this cold Harbour; but leaving the Hill, and way on the other side of it to Rimocastri on the left hand, we turned on the right, by the way that leads thence to Thebes, near the foot of Mount Cithaeron, now called Elatea: whose high Ridge we had above us still on the right hand: having thus mounted at least an hour, till we came about, level with the Plain of Rimocastri, we came at last to Sant Basilio it self, a Town utterly ruined not long since by Pi∣rates. But beside the modern Remains of it, there are Rests also of ma∣ny Ages past. There is an old Church, with a Cupolo sustained by Corin∣thian Pillars of admirable white Marble, and curious work. Hard by it is a Well of pure Water, deep, but filled to the brim. Above this lyeth the Town, on a Hillock, higher than the rest: which is full of Ruins also. Between the Town and the opposite Hill, North-wards, in a deep furrow runneth a considerable stream; which in sight of the Town makes a most pleasing Cascade. This in all likely hood is the ancient Typha I be∣fore mentioned; and those beautiful Pillars of the ruin'd Church may have also served for the Temple of Hercules at Typha.

Continuing forward on our way, under the Mount Cithaeron, or Ela∣tea, we came to another ruined City, at the foot of it, situate so, as it hath a descent every way from it, except towards the Mountain, South-West: where the ground seemeth level for near a Mile, to a Village cal∣led Cocla: but these Ruins are called Palaeo-castro, or Old-Castle,* 1.88 as they call almost all such old Ruins. On the North-West side of it I observed a curious Fountain; which seemeth to run into that stream, that falleth into the Bay of Livadostro, by Sant Basilio. The Foundations of the ancient Walls that remain, are of large hewen Stone, and at equal di∣stances were crowned with square Towers: some of which are yet standing. It over-looketh a large Plain Northwards, well water'd with streams from the Mountains, and undoubtedly very fruitful. It hath North the Mountain Mezaraci, or Phoenicius; Rimocastri North-North-West: A Tower and Village on the point of a Rock, over-looking the Plain of Livadia, near Zagara, or Helicon North-West, that part of the

Helicon where Neocorio, or old Thespia stands, North-West by West. The largeness of it shews it to have been a considerable place; and the fragments of Antiquity, that are to be seen all about it, to have been very ancient. It agrees with the Description that the ancients give both of Hirria, called afterward Hyssia, and Plataea; to wit, being both un∣der the Mountain Cithaeron, at the right hand of the way, that leads from Thebes into Attica, Eleutherus, and Argos upon the River Assopus. But as for this last mark, I am at a stand how to judge. For there is indeed a little stream under this in the Plain: But it runs so slow, that I could not well determine which way it did run. But I judged, it might run into the Gulph of Lepanto by Sant Basilio. But whether some part of it runs not also towards the Euripus by reason of the level of the Plain, I cannot positively determine: especially considering, that not very far from hence we cross'd a stream that run from this Way-wards thither, as I before have shewed, and is undoubtedly the Asopus. Hirria, or Hyssia, being but a small Town, and Plataea a large City, and sometimes a Free State of it self, I rather believe this was the Plataea; and Hyssia another place I past by a little further off, nearer the way into Attica and Megara. The Plain under this Mountain undoubtedly was the Plain of Plataea, famous for the Battle and Victory of the Greeks over the Persians, Mardonius being then General of Xerxes his Army.

Hence proceeding about a Mile we endeavoured to get over the Mountain; but finding no Tract in the Snow, and that it was too deep to be passed over, we left that way, and descending again into the Plain, we went further Eastwards,* 1.89 and came to a small Village called Pigadia; whence, having stayed and refreshed our selves, we took Horse, and made again towards the Mountain, quickly gaining the way from Thebes into the Morea; and afterwards that from Egripo thither also: where we again went up the Cithaeron, or Elatea, as it is now vulgarly called, from the abundance of Firr Trees growing thereon, which the Greeks still call 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. We ascended it by the way now called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. The way of the Vizire; for it was he commanded it to be opened, made smooth, and covered with Sand, when he passed that way with his Army into the Morea, and thence into Candia, at the beginning of that War. We arrived to the top from the foot in an hours time, and descended as soon into a Valley, between Cithaeron and the Mountain called now Ma∣criplais. This Valley belonged in very ancient times to the Eleutherians; who being subject to those of Thebes, out of an inveterated hatred and emulation revolted from them and join'd themselves to the Athenians, as was pretended out of a great fancy and good affection they took to their way of Government. From thence forward this Mount Cithaeron was accounted the Confines of Attica towards Boeotia: whereas before the Eleutherians were the Borderers of Boeotia towards Attica. This Val∣ley I find no where describ'd by our modern Geographers; from which only their ignorance of it can excuse them. For neither for its Barren∣ness, nor its smallness, could it merit their neglect. For I believe it wants not much of being as big as the Plain of Eleusis: I am sure it is as long, or longer, and wants little of being as large from the foot of Mount E∣latea to Macriplais, parting it from the Plains of Eleusis and Megaris Southwards. There is one stream here that runneth down into the Co∣rinthian

Gulph, or rather into that Bay of it called Livadostro: another that runneth the contrary way into the Plain of Eleusis, and joins it self with the Cephisus in that Plain. There are four Villages also pertaining to this Valley; that is to say, Cassiotica, Calivia, Ta Zeugaria, and Ste∣phani: to which last we came in the Evening.

Where the ancient City Eleutherus was, I could no where find; though Pausanias saith, the ruins of it were towards the foot of Mount Cithaeron in his time. Some ruins of Towns I saw. First, descending the Mount Cithaeron, I saw at the left hand the Walls of a Town, which I believe was the Dryma of the ancients; and the next day, on our way, at the right hand, near the Mountain Macriplais, an old Tower, about which are the ruins of a Town; and lastly, about an hours riding from thence, in our descent towards the Plain of Eleusis, along the Torrent I before men∣tioned, there were more Ruins, and a Basso relievo, by a little old Church. Hence we descended a steep Hill, covered with Pines, into the Plain of Eleusis; and so the second time to Athens. What I did and saw then there, I have already given an account; and therefore shall now only let you know, that I staid there till the third of April: and then taking my final leave of it, I return'd by the same way, by the Eleutherians, and so again over Mount Cithaeron into Boeotia. But it being now better weather than it was at first, I must not forget to tell you the prospect I had at this time, from that Mountain into Boeotia. For being got to the highest place of the Mountain in our Road, and having left the way of Thebes and Egripo on our right hand, and taken the way of Romelia, lead∣ing towards Rimocastri, Zaitori, Larissa and Constantinople. I stopt at the first advantagious place for a Prospect; where these ways part was called by the ancients 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or, the Three Heads, signifying I suppose the same we do by Three Wents: From the brow of the Moun∣tain I had a very fair prospect down into the several Plains of Boeotia, comprehending the Northern half of the Compass. Under this Moun∣tain therefore is first the Plain of Platea; North of that the Plain of Thespia, divided from Platea by one or two Ridges of Hills, coming from that Hill which is between the Helicon and Cithaeron, or between Liva∣dostro and Cacos. Beyond this are the Plains of Livadia and Thebes; both of them bounded from Thespia, by a Ridge coming from the Helicon; which passing by Panagia, and Rimocastri, &c. reacheth almost to Thebes. The Plains of Livadia and Thebes are separated from each other by the Moun∣tain Phaenicius or Sphinx. Beyond Thebes North-East is the Campus Ionius, under Mount Hypatus, and Campus Tanagricus South of it. Thence, South of that, is the Plain called Parascopia, even to under the Eastern Ridge of Mount Cithaeron and Parnes: so that Parascopia lyeth Eastwards parallel with the Plataeenses, Tanagricus to that of Thespia, and Ionius to the Theban Plain East, and the Plain of Livadia West and North-West. The Mountain Cocino and Mezeraci above Hylica palus lies just North beyond the Theban Plain. The Hill bounding the Plain of Thebes and Livadia, North-North-West. Panagia being a ruined Tower and Town upon a pointed Rock on the Hill of Rimocastri, and not above three or four Miles Westwards of that Town lyeth North-West. In the same line, beyond the Plain of Livadia, is the highest point of Lycoria, or Parnassus. The highest point of the Helicon, now Zagara, West-North-West. Macriplais, the Mountain be∣tween

the Plain of Eleutherus, and the Plains of Eleusis and Megara, South-East, Nozea and Casha, in old times Parnes and Lycabettus East.

When I had taken my fill of this prospect we descended again into the Plain, passing by the Ruins of Hyssia, near the foot of the Moun∣tain, about a Mile further by Plataea: and a little further down into the Plain we staid to bait, near the small stream I before mention'd: where I now observed abundance of Narcissus growing along its Banks; and shot a Lapwing or Pewit, with sharp Spurs on the Wings, as Cocks and Pheasants have on their Legs: of which I observed something at Smyrna on Ducks. Thence we passed over some Hills, and arrived at Rimocastri an hour before Night, the second day of our departure from Athens.

The next day we parted from Rimocastri, keeping along the Hill it stands on, towards Livadia, and came to an old Ruined Tower, with the remains of a Town about it, seated upon a high point of a Rock, part of some Hill,* 1.90 called now only Panagia: which is the same, that I said lay North-West from the Passage over Mount Cithaeron. It over-looketh the Plain of Thespia South, and the Plain of Livadia North; and is not above a Mile from Neo-coria, or Thespia South. Between both is a little Valley, which hath a stream running thorough it, by the Plain of Thespia, into the Gulph or Bay of Livadostro. This I suppose was the River Ter∣messus; which Pausanias saith, floweth about the Helicon, as this doth a good part of it.* 1.91 This place is also most likely to be that Ceressus he speaks of, saying, it was a very strong castle of the Thespians, and whither they fled upon every occasion when they fear'd the coming of the The∣bans amongst them. Here in several Ruined Churches I met with some In∣scriptions: one especially of such odd Characters, and different from the ordinary, that I cannot but question whether it were so very ancient or no. Another upon half a large Pedestal of a Statue: of which Inscrip∣tion I was able to read so much, as shewed it to have been dedicated to the Emperour Commodus.

Here I was overtaken by a Messenger from the English Consul of Athens, to let me know, there was an English Ship arrived thither; whereby I might have convenience to send my Marbles, and whatever I would else, into England: which also in its return was to touch at Zant, whither I was bound. These Letters invited me very earnestly to return again thi∣ther. But I was not willing to go so far back again; thinking it more safe to go by Boat to Zant, the same way I came; we having then War with Tripoli, and the Ship at Athens had no Convoy to guard it. There∣fore I sent back directions for what other Marbles I would have to be sent by the Ship, and kept on my Journey; but first return'd to Rimo∣castri.

After Dinner I parted again from Rimocastri, and passed along that Hill towards the Plain of Livadia, leaving the way to Panagia on our left hand: not far beyond which I passed over a Torrent, coming down from the Helicon with a great Stream: and near where I passed it, I ob∣serv'd several Springs, with very plentiful Sources of Water. This may be that Stream which was anciently called Permessus; which descended from the Helicon, and together with Olmeus falls into the Lake Copais, by Haliartus, as Strabo, in his Ninth Book informs us. After I had forded this Stream, I pass'd over the Hill into the Plain of Livadia: where lea∣ving

Megalom••lci about three Miles on our right hand, we came that E∣vening to a small Village of the Albaneses, on the side of it, where we Lodged all Night. Thence, this Hill turning South Westwards towards the Helicon, and joining with it enlargeth the Plain of Livadia, to the foot of that Mountain: whence it is again streightened by another lit∣tle Mountain, stretched out towards Livadia: So that were this whole Plain filled with Water, this would be a considerable Bay of the Lake Livadia: This I judge to be the chief part of the Plain, called from the City Coronaea, Coronaei ager; which City without doubt was situated in some eminent place of this Plain near the Helicon: But where, I am not certain. I suppose it was either at S^t Georgio, which is at the foot of the Helicon, or at certain Ruins of a Tower I passed by the next day, going that way, or at least at the Ruins of Dyminia, in the way from Livadia to Thebes. As to the nearness to the Helicon, S^t Georgio seemeth to agree better with it than either Dyminia, or that Tower between them. But the Stream, which should be Coralius, rising at Dyminia, shews it rather to be there that it was situated. The forty Stadia, or five Miles, from Mount Libethrius, and twenty Stadia, or two Miles and a half, from Laphytius, seem to shew, that Libethrius Mountain was that to∣wards Panagia and Rimocastri; and that one of those towards Livadia, was Laphytius. But whether that agrees best to Dyminia, the Tower, or S^t Georgio, I cannot well determine. And indeed the Descriptions of the ancients are so defective for want of assigning the quarters of the Hea∣vens to them, that it is very hard for us that come so long after them, to determine positively the true situation of their places: and sometimes impossible.

If Dyminia was formerly Coronea,* 1.92 then the Ruined Tower may have been the place where the Temple of Minerva Itonia sometimes stood: which was the place where all Boeotia used to assemble in Council.

Thence coming nearer to the foot of the Helicon, I passed by a very pleasant Prospect into a little Plain, inclosed every way with prominent parts of the Mountain; except one narrow Passage for entrance to it like to a Sea-Port. Hence we soon mounted up to S^t Georgio, situate on the side of Helicon, having left a Village below it on the right hand. Either S^t Georgio, or this Village was probably the Alalcontenae of old time. This Town is called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or S^t George, from a Monastery there dedicated to him. There are two or three Churches here in which are some Inscriptions of Antiquity: But I could not see them, because my Guide was afraid of the Turks; and my Druggerman was re∣turn'd to Athens, to give the Consul an account of my Resolutions to proceed on my Voyage to Zant. So we staid not long in this place, but mounted up a considerable way higher, toward the top of the Helicon; with intentions to pass quite over it, unto the Convent of Saint Luke: But we were hindred by the Snow; which was not yet passable.

This Mountain is now called Zagara by the Turks,* 1.93 from the great abundance of Hares they say breed there; although there be plenty of other Game also, especially Wild Boars and Dear: But it is known out of Strabo undoubtedly to be that famous Helicon of the ancients. For, agreeable to his Description, it lyeth upon the Crissean, or Corinthian Gulph, bordering upon Phocis; which it regards Northward, somewhat

inclining to the West. And as the saith, its high Cliffs hang over the last Harbour of Phocis; which was therefore called Mycus: nor is it not far distant from Parnassus, nor inferiour to it, either in height, or the com∣pass of ground that it stands on. Finally, that they are both Rocky Mountains, and the tops of them perpetually covered with Snow. Mount Helicon was in old times consecrated to the Muses by the Thracians; and was the native Country of the ancient Poet Hesiod, who was born at As∣cra, an inhospitable Town on the side of it towards the Sea; whom Ovid seems to follow and imitate, but with more briskness and less gravity. Hesiod seems with more respect to celebrate the Gods, as it became his perswasion of them, and with more earnestness to press men to Justice, Vertue and Humanity: which is as much to be preferred before the others bawdy and lying stories of them, as all Moral and Christian Ver∣tues infinitely transcend the obscene Lampoons of our present Age, being really more beautiful and attracting Objects than any Mistresses in the World. I found not those Monuments, either of Hesiod, Orpheus, or the Muses, Pausanias in his time professeth to have seen there: And as to the Fountain Hippocrene, the famous haunt of the nine Sisters, it was then frozen up, if it were where I guess'd it to have been. So that were I a Poet, and never so great a Votary of those Heliconian Deities, I might be excused from making Verses in their praise, having neither their pre∣sence to excite, nor their liquor to inspire me. For having gone two or three Miles forwards on the top, till I came to the Snow, my further proceedings that way were hindred; only alighting I made shift to clam∣ber up the Rocks somewhat higher, until I came to look down into a place encompassed round with the tops of Mountains; so that the inclo∣sed space seemed to me to be a Lake frozen, and covered with Snow. But my Guide telling me be passed that way once in the Summer time with Monsieur Nantueil, the French Embassador, and then saw it a very pleasant green Valley, covered with Flowers, having a very good Foun∣tain in the middle of it; I am much inclin'd to think the Hippocrene was there, and there also in antient times the delicious Grove of the Muses.

I observed likewise great store of the Male-Fir-Tree growing on this Mountain; whose Turpentine is very fragrant, much resembling the smell of a Nutmeg, and some of that Leopards-bane, whose root is like a Scorpion. But her partly the cold of a backward Spring, and partly the time of Year, hindred me from making any further discoveries in that kind. I shall only tell you what Pausanias telleth me, viz. that the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is one kind of an Arbutus, or Strawberry-Tree, beareth sweeter fruit here than in any other place he knows: which may well be, although I took no notice of any there. I saw here also a very large Tortoise, newly come out of ground, to enjoy the warm Sun; and of which they say there is great plenty bred there.

We return'd to the brow of the Mountain by the same way we came, and thence I had a fair and large Prospect of the Plains of Boeotia North∣ward, and observed the Mountain Delphi of Egripo to lie exactly East of us, and another of the same Island to lie East-North-East. We left the way to St. Georgio, and turning to our left hand, descended into a Plain, between the Mountain Helicon, and another little Mountain; the Eastern end of which comes up near to it, and the Town of St. George,

but thence runs North-Westwards, beyond Livadia, which it hath un∣der it on the North-side. This Mountain from the Plain of Boeotia, seems not at all distinct from the Helicon; although it hath a Plain between it, and that in some places I believe three or four Miles wide. On the top of it, on the East end, we saw Granitza,* 1.94 which I was told was a Town and Bishoprick under the Jurisdiction of the Archbishop of Athens. Here is also a Convent of Caloires, or Greekish Monks: which is all I could learn of the place; only from the ancients I gather that this Mountain was cal∣led by two distinct names; to wit, Laphytius on this end,* 1.95 and Telphysium on the Western. In descending we turned still round the Helicon to our left hand; and in our way passed by many Fountains that issue out of the sides of that Mountain; some of which run down into the Plain of Livadia, as far as the Lake, into which they flow: others collect them∣selves into a Stream in this Valley, One makes a fine Cascade almost from the top of the Mountain, and I believe runneth from the Lake, I before spake of, on the top of the Helicon, by its nearness to that place. There was abundance of the Narcissus Flowers growing along the Banks of this Stream, so proliferous, that I had not before seen any the like; having seven, eight, nine, sometimes ten Flowers upon the same stalk, and very fragrant. Here my Guide proved to be near as ignorant and unacquain∣ted in the Country as my self; and it growing towards Night, we knew not whither to go to Lodge. A Village we saw two or three Miles high, on the Precipices of the Helicon; but how to get to it we knew not. At last, sensible of the distress we were in, and almost out of hopes of getting any shelter but the Heavens that Night; by the good Provi∣dence of God we over-took two or three Oxen, which we followed as Cadmus did a Heifer, by direction of the Oracle to the Building of Thebes:* 1.96 These brought us to a Shepherds Hutt; which we found to be too lit∣tle to hold us and the Cattle together. But the Shepherd inform'd us, there was a Village about two Miles further, which having found with much ado, by that time it was dark, being seated upon a little Hill, just under the Helicon, we were received courteously into the House of a good honest Albanese, the only Inhabitant at present of the place, the rest of the Inhabitants were all run away, not being able to pay their Ca∣ratch. Here is an old Church, with some remains of Antiquity about it. But I cannot conjecture the ancient name of the place, unless it should have been Atalcomenae, which Strabo seems to intimate, speaking of the Telphysium mons, which he placeth between Halyartus, Atalcomenae, and Coronea. Halyartus was near the Lake Copais, and as Pausanias reports, fifty Stadia, or six Miles, from this Mountain. But if this Village were the Atalcomenae of old, then the River that cometh this way out of the Helicon, should be that of Triton which passed by Atalcomenae; and not the other rising between Parnassus and Cyrphis, I before spoke of. All the entertainment we found here was the sad stories our Landlord told us of the Oppression they suffer by their hard Masters the Turks. My Guide made me take notice, that his Daughter did wear red Slippers, which was a sign she intended to be Married, when she could get her a Hus∣band; which I guess she could not long have wanted, had not the Town been so much depopulated; for natural Beauty was such as might

make her deserve the Courtship of the bravest Shepherd of the Boeotian Plains.

The next Morning we parted thence, and keeping still under the He∣licon on our left hand, in a very rotten, unsound way: I observed almost every step our Horses made, there sprung up a new Hippocrene; the fresh Water following each print of my Horses feet; especially at one place, where I was almost stuck fast, although the surface of the ground was covered with a green Sword. These Springs collect themselves to∣gether with the other River in this Valley, and I believe pass under ground to Livadia, and make the River Hercyna, when they arise there. For I know not which way otherwise they can pass: and the abundance of Water, which there ariseth again, confirmeth me in that opinion. Here the Helicon makes an Elbow Northward, almost joining with that of Granitza and Livadia in the way, to which from Salona and Delphos we came in about half an hours further riding: So soon as we were got into that way, we met with a Caratchi; a formidable Officer of the Turks among the Greeks, being the Grand Signiors Collector of Taxes. So con∣tinuing still our winding about the foot of this Mountain, and leaving the way to Delphos on our right hand, we arrived at the Convent of Saint Luca: of which and the Hermitage I saw there, when we came first into these parts, I have elsewhere already given an account. So that I have only now to tell you of my return thence; and so conclude.

April the tenth I sent a Messenger from hence to the Port of Asprospiti, to see whether any Barks lay there, bound for Zant: and word being brought me that there were two, I prevailed with the Egoumeno of the Convent, to let Pappa Carito, one of the Religious men, accompany me thither. So after Dinner I parted thence, and passed over the Plain be∣tween Parnassus and Helicon, by the way to Delphos; which I left, after an hour and halfs riding, on the right hand, and passing by Asprospiti in the Evening, we came to Bay of the Corinthian Gulph, called by the same name, by that time it was dark.

The next Morning we Embarked in the Calm, but were met presently with a contrary Wind and sudden storm in the middle of the Bay: So that not without much danger, we were forced to return again into the same Port. It was a strange and almost astonishing sight for us to see the Storm come upon us at three or four Miles distance, while we were be∣calm'd, yet on the sudden to fall on us with such a fury, as if it would immediately swallow us up, being accompanied with such a prodigious Rain and Hail, as we fear'd would fill all the vacant places in the Bark, that the Wheat, wherewith it was full laden, did not employ. But so soon as we were again got on shore, it immediately grew as fair weather as ever it was. But the Sun continuing again to shine, and the Marriners resolving to stay a while in the Port, and see the weather bet∣ter setled, I gave order to the men to make some further Provisions for us, while I went to divert my self upon the Rocks hard by; partly with the pleasure of a good prospect from thence into the Gulph, and partly by searching what Plants nature might be found there to produce.

As to the first, I found this Bay of Asprospiti a very large Bay, and this Rock to be a Peninsula at the bottom of it, of about three Miles

compass; making a good Harbour on each side of the Isthmus of it: Its Western Promontory being Mons Cyrphis; now called Stiva. Its Eastern Promontory, is made by certain Rocks descending from the Mountains about Saint Luca Striotes, and the Helicon: and I believe 'twas anciently called Plarigum Promontorium.* 1.97 For this Bay was certainly that which in older time was called Anticyrrha; and perhaps the old Town of that name might be upon this Peninsula: for I saw some Ruins there. Not far from Anticyrrha was also a Town of Phocis called Marathon; which, as I also conjecture, may have been the present Village of Asprospiti.

Nor was this all my Divertisement. For I found in clambering up those Rocks, one of the most pretty natural Grots I ever saw. It seem'd to be made on purpose for the habitation of some Hermite. The En∣trance was but small: But within was a very pretty room, receiving light by a hole in the rock above; and on the left hand about a mans height from the ground, is a place that lookt like the old Hermits Bed-Chamber; whoever he was. For that some such Religious man did once live there, the aptitude of the place would not suffer me to doubt. Here, within this Hermites place, I reposed my self awhile; and afterwards the weather continuing still fair, I went abroad, and found very many curious Plants growing upon those Rocks; which were a second Diver∣tisement to me, nothing less agreeable than the first. I specifie such only here, as I have not taken notice of elsewhere: and of those these that follow are the chief.

A kind of Syderitis, with a tuft of Blue leaves, like Horminum Cre∣tieum.

Another sort, which from a long tough root hath many thick, hoary, roundish, and scaloped Leaves, resembling the Lamiums; out of which runs a round. creeping, downy stem of a reddish colour, beset one above another with bluish Flowers, not divided into Leaves, but whole, till near the top, much resembling Trachelion; but scarce so much open, and much less. It hath been taken for Scutellaria: but I find it not to agree with Bauhinus his Description of that Plant.

A very small sort, or kind, of Eryngium: which I take to be that which Johnson calls Eryngium Pucillum, Planum; only he describes it much bigger than it groweth here; which may well be, by reason of the stoniness and sterility of the Rocks of this place.

When I returned to the Bark, I found them ready to depart, and wait∣ing only for me. I therefore immediately return'd to Sea; and in a short time doubled the Cape, or Western Promontory of the Bay, called by them Tramachi sto Crissa, The Cape to Crissa, and came and stayed that Night at Pendhagi, where we arrived also, when we first came into Greece. The next Morning we were soon out of the Bay of Crissa, or. Salona, and doubled the Western Cape of it; which they call Ψ〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, signifying a Fishes Fye, and got under the shelter of two or three Islands, between that and Lepanto; where we staid until Night, that so we might pass out between the Castles at the Mouth of the Gulph, unseen by the Turks.

From the first of these Promontories, Tramachi sto Crissa, so well as the motion of the Bark would permit me, I observed

• Corinth to lie South-East by South off us.

• Cape Psaromatia West-North-West.
• The Bay towards Crissa, or Salona, North by East.

From Psaromatia.

• Corinth South-East.
• Palaeo-Vouni in the Isthmus, in old time called Geranea mons, South-East by East.
• Halcyonum mare, or Livadostro, East-South East.
• Tramachi, Sto Crissa, East.
• Naupactum, or Lepanto, West-North-West.
• The Mountain above Salona, North by West.

So that now I think I am able, in some measure, to give you the Fi∣gure of the Corinthian Gulph, a place the most fam'd for Maritime ex∣ploits in all Antiquity and modern History. I give it you as I have cau∣sed it to be Engraven in my Map of Greece; and without much boasting recommend it for the most exact that hath been given in our times. It is only of those parts of Greece I have surveyed my self, and compre∣hends the greatest part of Achaia. I have made it my care to be exact in placing the Mountains, Promontories, Bayes, Rivers and Lakes accord∣ing to their natural situation. Of which only I have given the antient names with the modern: as to the Towns I have given only the modern names, having a design to give the ancient names of them in a Treatise by themselves, if I find it worth my pains.

The Night being come, and a brisk Gale with it, blowing out of the Gulph, we set Sail, and about ten of the Clock we passed between both the Castles unseen by the Turks: But not without very great apprehen∣sions, that we should have some great shot let fly after us. But Heavens, that had so many times wonderfully preserved me, did then also deliver me out of the hands of those Infidels, and brought me safely to Zant the next day by Noon. Whence by the first occasion I departed for Italy and France: where having further satisfied my curiosity, and congra∣tulated with my Friends my prosperous Voyage, I hasted to render my self to my Country, and to the long-wish'd-for Embraces of my Parents, Relations and Friends, and to give Praise to God for the Wonderful things he had done for my Soul.

That he had placed the Lot of mine Inheritance in a Land that he had blessed, and hedged about for himself: where nothing is wanting to supply the defects of frail nature; but where Peace and Plenty for this many Years have seem'd to embrace each other; where every Mans Right, from the Prince to the Peasant, is secured to him by the pro∣tection of good and wholesome Laws; And more, by a King who is the Indulgent Father of his Country, and not a Tyrant: and lastly, rendred me into the Bosom of a Church, that I had often heard, but now knew, to be the most refined, pure, and Orthodox Church in the World; freed from Slavery, Errour and Superstition, and without Novelty or Confu∣sion, established in Purity of Doctrine, Decency and Order.

Therefore arriving at Canterbury, its Metropolitan Throne, November the 15^th 1676. transported with unspeakable Joy at the singular Bliss of my Country, Relations and Friends, far exceeding any Nation I had seen beyond our Brittish Seas, I offered to God the Sacrifice of Praise and Thanksgiving, resolving for ever to call upon his Great Name, who is

the only mighty Preserver of Mankind. Whose Providence encompasseth all his Creatures, and who never faileth those that trust in him. Saying with the Psalmist,

Praise the Lord O my Soul, whilst I live will I praise the Lord; yea as long as I have any Being, I will sing Praises unto my God, Hallelujah, Hallelujah, Hallelujah.

Glory to God in the Highest! on Earth Peace, and good will towards men.

Glory be to him that sitteth on the Throne; and to the Lamb for evermore.

Glory be to the Holy of Holies; and to the Promised comforter abiding with us for ever.

For He is Alpha and Omega, the Beginning and the End, the Author and Finisher of us, and all our Works. Therefore to him only let Prayers ever be made, and daily let him be praised. For to him only belongeth Praise, Glory, Power, Might, Majesty, and Dominion for ever and ever, World without End, Amen.

Notes

• * 1.1

  I. TO HYMET∣TUS M.
• * 1.2

  ORDERING OF BEES.
• * 1.3

  II. To the SEA∣COASTS of ATHENS.
• * 1.4

  PORTO∣LIONE.
• * 1.5

  III. To SALAMIS or COLOURI.
• * 1.6

  See Meursius pop. Att. in Ce∣ramicus.
• * 1.7

  PLANTS at SALAMIS or COLOURI.
• * 1.8

  LIPSOCATA∣LIA.
• * 1.9

  AEGINA.
• * 1.10

  ANGESTRI.
• * 1.11

  PORUS.
• * 1.12

  PATROCLEA now GUIDRONI∣SA.
• * 1.13

  IV. To CORINTH, &c.
• * 1.14

  Paus. in Attic.
• * 1.15

  ELEUSIS.
• * 1.16

  TEMPLE OF CERES.
• * 1.17

  M. GERATA. KERATA.
• * 1.18

  PLANTS.
• * 1.19

  MEGARA.
• * 1.20

  〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• * 1.21

  L. 7. c. 16.
• * 1.22

  GERANIA, now PALAIO∣BOUNI.
• * 1.23

  WIND.
• * 1.24

  ONEIUS Mons.
• * 1.25

  CENCHRAEA.
• * 1.26

  ISTHMUS.
• * 1.27

  CORINTH.
• * 1.28

  SICYON.
• * 1.29

  M••d. 125, 126.
• * 1.30

  PORTO RAPHTI.
• * 1.31

  MARCO∣POLI.
• * 1.32

  LAURIUM.
• * 1.33

  PROM. SUNIUM, or CAPO CO∣LONNI.
• * 1.34

  METRO∣PIS.
• * 1.35

  LAMER.
• * 1.36

  V. From Athens to the Convent Pen∣teli, Marathon, &c.
• * 1.37

  ANGELO∣PICO.
• * 1.38

  CALLAN∣DRI.
• * 1.39

  MONS PEN∣TELICUS.
• * 1.40

  Pendeli Co∣vent.
• * 1.41

  Grottoes.
• * 1.42

  Quarries.
• * 1.43

  CEVISIA.
• * 1.44

  STAMATI, and URANIA BRAURON.
• * 1.45

  Lake of Ma∣rathon.
• * 1.46

  CHERSO∣NESSUS.
• * 1.47

  MARA∣THON.
• * 1.48

  KALINGI.
• * 1.49

  CAPAN∣DRITTI.
• * 1.50

  Thucyd. p. 115.
• * 1.51

  OROPUS.
• * 1.52

  Thycydidis lib. 2.
• * 1.53

  SCAMI∣NO.
• * 1.54

  DRAMISH.
• * 1.55

  MEGALO BATHY.
• * 1.56

  MICRO BATHY.
• * 1.57

  NEGRO∣PONT. EGRIPOS. EVRIPUS.
• * 1.58

  Of the Ebbing and Flowing of the Euripus.
• * 1.59

  TYPO∣VOUNI. MESSAPI∣US MONS.
• * 1.60

  ASOMA∣TA.
• * 1.61

  TRITON fl.
• * 1.62

  ACONTIUM.
• * 1.63

  MELAS fl.
• * 1.64

  CHARA∣DRUS fl. 1.
• * 1.65

  TURCO∣CHORIO.
• * 1.66

  CALOPO∣DIA.
• * 1.67

  CNEMIS Mons.
• * 1.68

  CIR TO∣NUM Mons.
• * 1.69

  THALANDA.
• * 1.70

  LOCRI OPUNTII. SINUS OPUNTIUS. ATALAN∣TA.
• * 1.71

  INEMIS.
• * 1.72

  PROSCINA.
• * 1.73

  ACR AEPH∣NIUM.
• * 1.74

  KATABA∣THRA.
• * 1.75

  COCINO.
• * 1.76

  The Thebane Lake Hylica Palus.
• * 1.77

  HYLA.
• * 1.78

  HUNGARO.
• * 1.79

  MAZARACI.
• * 1.80

  RIMOCA∣STRI.
• * 1.81

  PHRIA.
• * 1.82

  THESPIA.
• * 1.83

  Paus. Lib. 3. p. 589.
• * 1.84

  THISEA.
• * 1.85

  Strab. Lib. 8.380.
• * 1.86

  CACOS.
• * 1.87

  Pag. 39, 40.
• * 1.88

  COCLA.
• * 1.89

  PIGADIA.
• * 1.90

  PANAGIA.
• * 1.91

  CERESSUS.
• * 1.92

  MINERVA ITONIA.
• * 1.93

  M. ZAGARA the HELICON.
• * 1.94

  GRANITZA.
• * 1.95

  LAPHYTIUS and TELPHY∣SIUM, mm.
• * 1.96

  Ovid. Met. L. 3.
• * 1.97

  PHARIGIUM PROM. ANTICYR∣RHA. MARATHON.