III.

The next fair weather that came,* we went to visit the Isle Colouri, of old time Salavis. To go to it we left the way to Eleusia on our right hand, as soon as we were out of the Town; and about a mile or two further, we came to the Wood of Olives; through which we passed, by a place called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, where they dig a reddish and fat Earth, which they make Tiles and Pots of; and is, in all likelyhood, the place where the ancient Town Keramaea once stood: taking from the Potters trade both its old name and new. Near unto this Town was the famous Aca∣demia, from which all other places, celebrated for the liberal Sciences and Learning, have borrowed the name of Academy. Nevertheless, fa∣mous as it hath been, and is still in great renown, yet is the memory of it here utterly rased out, and its situation so obscurely marked and set out by ancient Writers, that it hath been almost an insuperable dif∣ficulty to determine where it was. Some have placed it in the way to Capo Colouni, from Suidas his calling it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, an high place: there being none such in this way, but only in that. Wherefore I was much of that opinion also: But my Comrade shewed me my error; be∣lieving that Suidas might have some other reason for his calling it a high place, than that which I thought of: And it seems very probable to have been only from the Tower that was there, from which they be∣gan their Races, they ran with lighted Torches in the Panathenian Games. Moreover it is plain by that passage in Cicero, that Ceramica, was but six Stadia from the gate Dipylon; called in times more ancient, Porta Thriasia, because it led to the Town Thria, which was most certain∣ly towards Eleusis,* behind the Hill Corydalis. And it is no less certain out of ancient Authors, that Ceramicus and Academia were together, six Stadia from Athens, either upon, or nigh unto, the Eleusinian Road. But there is now nothing remaining of it, save only a small Church, hard by, which seems to be built out of more ancient ruins; among Page  421which are some Inscriptions: and they call the place about it Palaeo-Chori, that is, Old-Towm.

Having passed through the Olive-yards, about a mile further, we left an old Tower, a little way to the left hand. My Companion stepp'd to it, and finding several Inscriptions upon Sepulchral Pillars, he copied them: and so we came at last to the end of the plain, to the Sea-shore; where Mount Corydalis, running with its Western point a little into the Sea, makes the Promontory Amphialia, about six or seven miles from Athens. Between this Promontory and Salamina is a Streight, which is not a mile over in the narrowest part, where we passed it over by a Ferry, attending there for Passengers.

Salamis is now called Colouri; and, as our Consul esteems it, is about fifty Miles in compass. It hath a Harbour on the West-side, eight Miles in length, and three Miles broad in the largest space. It is of an Ovael Figure; and, at the bottom of its Bay, hath a Town of the same name with the present name of the Island, viz. Colouri. This Town, at pre∣sent, consists of about an hundred and fifty poor Cottages, and perhaps of four hundred Persons. There are two other Villages in the Island; the one situate upon a Hill, on the South-side of the Harbour, about five or six Miles off, and in sight of Colouri; and is called Metropis. The other called Ambelachi, is situated near the Streight towards Athens: They consist of about thirty Houses apiece. The antient City Salamis was, by this last, remov'd a little more to the Sea-side; where it had a little Harbour: in which, at this day, appear many antient Foundations under Water, of carved Stone; and, according to the appearance of Ruins all thereabouts, the City ought to have been near four Miles a∣bout. Near the Ruins of an antient Temple, we found these Lines on a black Marble Stone, which hath the antient name ΣΑΛΑΜΙΝΑ, Sa∣lamis, engraven on it.

This Island was the Kingdom of Valiant Ajax, and this was the chief City of it. Ajax was then so powerful, as Homer testifies, that he fur∣nished a dozen Sail of Ships, to joyn with the rest of the Navy of Greece, in the Trojan War. This Island, in after-times, was much con∣tended for between the Athenians and Megarians; but to whom soever of right it belonged, the Megarians were forced to submit to, and ac∣quiesce Page  422quiesce in the Conquest of it, by their more powerful Neighbours, the Athenians.

We saw and copied several other Inscriptions, and a little Basso-relievo I found masoned in the Wall of an old Church; which I prevailed with the Pappa to remove, and is one of the three I described at Athens. Sala∣mis hath many high Rocks and Cliffs: but withal several fruitful Val∣leys, running between them, which bear good store of Wheat and Bar∣ley. Of the Pine-trees on the Hills, they make good store of Pitch; and of the Lentiscus Wood growing there in good plenty, they make Soap∣ashes. So that with these Commodities, and their Fishing, the Inhabi∣tants make shift to get a poor Living; Athens being their Market for all.

Above the Village Colouri,* is a high cragged Rock; upon which, a∣mong other Plants, I gathered a kind of Medica; which creepeth on the Ground, and is beset with Leaves growing close to the Stalk, something like Kidney-Vetches; every Stalk being set with them, three, four, five, and sometimes six upon a Stalk, covered with a Silver Hoariness. The Flowers follow in little Tufts, of five or fix golden-colour'd Blossoms; these are succeeded by crooked flat Cods, like a Half-Moon, and not much unlike to Gerard's Trifolium lunatâ siliquâ, pag. 1217. It agreeth well enough with his Description, but not with his Figure; for the Leaves of this are not snipped at the Edges, as his. Monsieur Merchant called it Auricula muris Camerarii. There is another somewhat like to this; but the Leaves of it are shorter, and broader than the other. The •••wers grow five or six together, close to a creeping Stalk; each followed with a large Husk, swelled like a Bladder, of a shining Silver∣colour; which, when the Blossom is past, swells bigger: but what Cod it makes, I saw not. I gathered there also in the Fields, a little kind of Iris, or Flag, bearing a pretty white Flower, about a handful high from the Ground; and the Leaves no broader nor longer, than the ordina∣ry Grass.

About Salamis we observed several other little Islands;* as between the Streight, and Porto-Lione, a desart one, called now Lipsocatalia; but by Strâbo, Psytalia. Beyond the Streight, towards Eleusis, are two other little Rocks, or Islands close together; the one called Megala Kira, and the other Micra Kira: On one of these it was, called antiently also Ke∣ra, that Xerxes built a Silver Throne, to sit and see the Battle fought between his and the Grecian Fleet; the Issue whereof was, That the Greeks handled his great and numerous Navy so, that in the end he hardly escaped himself in a small Boat. We contented our selves with the sight of the rest of the Islands in the Saronick Gulph, by viewing them from the Attick Shore. But our good Friend, the Consul, who had of∣ten visited them, gave us also a more particular Account of them; by the help of which, and our own Observation, we are enabled to give a more exact Account of it, than any hath been yet published: which I think very proper to insert in this Place; because the whole Saronick Gulph is so frequently mentioned in antient History.

This Gulph is contained within the Promontory Sunium, now called Capo Colonni, on the Attick Shore, and Schillaeum, now Capo Skillo, on the Morean, of Peloponnesian Shore; which I suppose to be about two Page  423or three and twenty Miles distant from each other, by the Observations I have made as well upon Mount Hymettus, as the Promontory Sunium; and by the same Proportion from the Entrance to the bottom of the Gulph, to the Isthmus, is about fifty five Miles. There are many little Islands in this Gulph; but the principal are Aegina, Colouri, and Porus: and these only are inhabited. They had in times past a Veivode, and Caddi common to them all: But of late they have thought good to make an Agreement with the Captain Basha, and to pay him yearly se∣ven hundred eighty five Dollers for all their Duties: By which means they are left to themselves; and might grow Rich again, did not the Corsairs haunt them so much. For they have Ground enough to culti∣vate for so few Inhabitants.

Aegina is now the chief Island,* and giveth Name at present to the whole Gulph, as the River Saron did in times past. It continues its an∣tient Name still among the Greeks, although our Seamen corruptly Tcall it Engia. Its highest Point from the Promontory Sunium, is seen West-North-West. From Mount Hymettus South-West by West; and from Colouri, or Salamis, it lieth almost South. It is counted eighteen Miles from the nearest Shore of Attica, and twenty five from Porto-Lione, and about a dozen from the Morea; being about thirty Miles also in Circum∣ference. It hath no Harbour for Ships about it: But towards the Mo∣rean Shore, between the little Islands Angostri, Douronist, Moni,* and it self, the Venetian Armada often dropped Anchor, during the War of Candia. It hath no City, or Village now in it, save only that which is called by the same Name, with the Island Aegina: which, in the Year One thousand, six hundred, fifty four, was almost ruined by the Vene∣tians; who came hither with their Ships, and, as they say, took away no fewer than six hundred poor Christian Greeks, and put them to row in their Gallies. The Town consists of about eight hundred dwelling Houses, but now almost ruined. The Castle lieth above it, and is remark∣able for little, but the fair Prospects it affords into all Parts round about it. For from hence many of the Islands of the Archipelago are discove∣red, and the whole Attick and Morean Shore. In this Castle are six Ci∣sterns, and about fourscore Houses; two Churches, joyn'd near toge∣ther; one for the Greeks, the other for the Latines: in which last remains a fine Sepulcher of Marble, made for a Venetian Proveditor; being a Mark of the Dominion they had over it. The Remains of its Antiquity, are the Ruins of two Temples: The one, situate North-West of the Town, ought to be that of Venus, mentioned by Pausanias. It hath but two Pillars now standing, and a piece of an Architrave on them, with some Rubbish below. The other is on the other side of the Isle towards Athens, four Miles from the Town, in a Wood, upon a Hill. This is thought to be that Temple, which Aeacus, the first King of the Island, dedicated to Jupiter. It hath yet twenty one Pillars standing, with their Architraves on them, and many others lying on the Ground. They are of the Dorick Order, chanelled, twenty two foot and an half long; the Architrave thirteen foot and an half long, and about three broad. By the Order of placing them, there ought to have been fifty in num∣ber, standing at a pace and an half distance from each other.

Aegina hath great Plenty of Corn, Cotton, Honey, and Wax; also a∣bundance Page  424bundance of Almonds, and Keratia, or Carobs. It abounds so with a sort of red-legg'd Partridges, that by order of the Epitropi, or the chief Magistrates of the Town, all, both Young and Old, Women and Chil∣dren, go out yearly, as the Pigmies of old did against the Granes, to war with them, and to break their Eggs before they be hatch'd; other∣wise, by their Multitudes, they would so destroy, and eat up the Corn, that they would inevitably bring a Famine every year upon the Place. But they say, There are no Hares at all in this Island.

Porus is situated near the Shore of the Morea,* between Aegina and the Promontory Schillaeum: It is about eighteen miles in compass, and is inhabited only by the Albaneses; who have most of their Goods a Shore in the Morea. This Island was antiently called Calabrea, and is no∣ted for the Banishment of Demosthenes to it; where he afterwards poi∣soned himself, to avoid the Fury of Antipater.

The Situation of the rest of the Islands is as followeth, beginning at Promontorium Sunium, or Capo Colonni; and so coasting along the Attick Shore, Westwards.

The first is a little Desart Island,* called now Guidronisa, or The Isle of Asses, hard by Capo Colonni, South-Westwards. It was heretofore cal∣led Patroclea, and is still by some. Here groweth yet some quantity of the Eliane-Wood; for which the Place is so famous, that it hath gained a third Name by some upon that Account; being call'd by them Eba∣nonisi, as the Consul affirmed. But the Wood thereof is now much spoi∣led by the Corsairs. I would have gone to search further concerning it, when I was at Capo Colonni; but I could get no Barque to go over.

Further is an Island, called now, if my Book be right marked, Be∣noni. I believe, it may be that, which was called, in times past, Belbina. And yet, a good way further, near Lambra, formerly Lampra, there is a Bay; which I judge to have been, in antient times, Hyphormius Por∣tus, and the Promontory that makes it, Astipalia: where there is ano∣ther little Island, called Elisso; which probably may be that Strabo names Eleussa. Four or five Miles further, near to a Promontory, which de∣scends from Mount Hymettus into the Sea, called antiently Zoster, there are five little Islands together, Combonissa, the Buttons, and, as the Con∣sal's Druggerman noted them to me, Halicas or Selicas, the Salt-Pits; but I suppose this Name belongs rather to the Promontory, with a ruin∣ed Church upon it, bearing the Name of Hagio Cosmo. There is ano∣ther little Island called La Flega, I believe the same that Strabo calls Phaura.

Lipsocotalia followeth, between Porto-Lione and Colour•. This is a little Island; but, contrary to what is said but now of Aegina, so abound∣ing with Hares, that they dye here of mere Age, for want of Hunt∣ing. The reason is, For that the Turks will not venture thither to hunt, fearing the Pyrates that infest those Seas; and the Greeks, poor Christians! have not leisure, from the labour of getting their living, to attend to such sports.

Colouri follows, between which and the Shore of the Plain of Eleu∣sis, are the two little Rocks, mentioned before, almost joined together, called Megala Kira and Micra Kira. Turning along the Shore of Megara and Colouri, at the entrance of the Harbour of Colouri, are two other Page  425little Islands; the one called Canaki, and the other Prasouli; because there groweth a sort of Leeks they call so. Further on, between Co∣rinth and Aegina, are five little Islands, one called Hagio Thoma, ano∣ther Diaporia, another Hebraeo, another Hagio Jani, and the other Pla∣tonisi, because it is low and flat. There are hereabouts dispersed several other Scoglio's, or Rocks appearing out of the Sea, without any name. Between Aegina and Colouri there is an Island called Laousa, and by it four small Scoglio's. Between Aegina and the Morea are the little Islands, Angistri, Metopi, Dorousa, and Moni, as I said. From Aegina towards Capo Schillo, are, first, two small Islands, called Cophinidia, which signifie Baskets: Then Porus, a bigger Island; and near the Promontory are two little Scoglio's, called The Chevines: according as you may see them set down in the Map I have given of those Parts of Greece which I vi∣sited.