The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French.

TRAVELS INTO THE LEVANT. PART I. (Book 1)

BOOK II.

CHAP. I. Of Alexandria.

IN the former Book, I gave an Account of our arrival at Alexandria, after a tedious Voyage, which is commonly performed from Chio in seven or eight days time. And now being in Alexandria, I stay'd some days for fair weather, that I might go with the Saique to Rossetto; but perceiving that the wind changed not, and that probably it might be a months time before the Saique could get to Rossetto, I brought my things a-shore, and resolved to go thither by Land. Before my departure, I saw all that is worth the seeing in Alexandria. This Town, called by the Turks Skenderia,* 1.1 heretofore so lovely, rich and famous a place, is at present so ruined, that it is no more the same; there is nothing to be seen in it but ruined Houses cast one upon ano∣ther, and the heaps of Rubbish and Stones which are on all hands, are higher than the Houses. The French are lodged there in a Fondick, which is a great House like a Han. There are other Fondicks also for the English, Dutch, Vene∣tians, and others, and they pay no House-rent; on the contrary, the Con∣suls receive Money from the Grand Signior yearly, to keep them in necessary repair. These Fondicks are every evening shut up, and the Keys of them carried to the Aga of the Castle, who takes care to send them back every next morning. They are also shut, and so is the Water-gate, every Friday, during the Noon-Prayer, as the Castle-gate is at Caire, and also in all places of the Turkish Empire, where there are Franks, because (they say) they have a Prophesie which threatens, that the Franks are to become Masters of them on a Friday, during the Noon-Prayer. Hardly any thing of the ancient Alexandria remains standing, but the Walls, and some Buildings toward the Fondick of the French, which are almost ruined; for the Buildings that are now towards the shore,

are not ancient, but have been built by the Turks, as may be easily seen by the Fabrick, being all low ill-contriv'd Houses. This Town hath three Ports, the first of which, called the Old Harbour, is pretty large, but few Vessels put into it, because the entry is difficult; there are two Castles to defend it, one on each side, and both well kept. The other two Ports are higher up, and separated one from another by a little Island, heretofore farther off from the main Land, than it is at present, and anciently called the Pharos: It is at pre∣sent joyned to the main Land by a Stone-bridge of some Arches, under which the water passes. This Isle runs out a great way in Meo; in the middle of it, there is a large square Tower,* 1.2 where the Grand Signior's Powder is kept. At the end of the same Isle, there is a good Castle, called Farillon, that stands in the same place where the heretofore so renowned Pharos stood, which was reckoned One of the Seven Wonders of the World; this which is now in the place of it; is neat enough, and well provided with Artillery, and a Garison of three hundred Soldiers, commanded by a Muteferaca; but it hath no other water than that of the Nile, which is brought into it from without upon Camels. The first of the two Ports divided by the Pharos, is the Harbour of the Galleys; and the other is the Great Port, or New Harbour, the mouth whereof is on the one side defended by the Farillon; and on the other side, by another little Castle at its entry, which is not so good as the Farillon; however it is kept by several Soldiers, and these two Castles easily succour one another. Both these Ports are very dangerous, because of the Stones and Rocks that are in them, and there is need of a good Pilot to bring Vessels in. The Great Port lyes much open to the North-east and North winds: The Harbour of the Gal∣leys, is the safer of the two, but it hath no great depth of water; and indeed, (as I have already said) it serves only for Galleys. The Custome-house of Alexandria, on which that of Rossetto depends, is upon the side of the Great Port:* 1.3 It is let out to a Turk, who therefore is called Multezin, or Farmer, and pays the Grand Signior three hundred Purses a year, which make two hundred twenty seven thousand two hundred threescore and twelve Piastres, fourscore Maidins: Nevertheless he is at no trouble about it, for he discharges the office by a Jew, to whom he gives a Purse yearly, which makes five and twenty thousand Maidins. The Jew who hath this employ∣ment,* 1.4 is called Maalem, and hath other Jews under him; he is Powerful, and by his intrigues, can do service or injury to a great many. Seing the Custome-house is kept by Jews, there is nothing to be done there on Saturday, because it is their Sabbath, and yet no Vessel can load or unload, unless the Custome-house be open. There is another Custome-house on the right hand, as you go from the Fondick of the French towards the shore, pretty near the Water-gate, and is called the Old Custome-house; it is now above four hundred paces from the Sea, though heretofore the water beat against the Walls of it. Some Janizaries are still there at the door, and exact some∣thing of all Goods that pass, that so they may not lose their Rights. There are in Alexandria two little Mounts, made of Ruines heaped together, and one of them may very well be seen from the French Fondick; it hath a little square Tower on the top, where a Man always stands Sentinel, and puts out a Flag assoon as he sees any Sail; and every Vessel that comes into the Port, pays somewhat for the keeping of that Guard. Alexandria depends on the Beglerbey, or Basha of Aegypt, who has his Residence at Caire; and in Alexan∣dria there is an Aga that represents his Person, and Commands there. There is also a Great Cady or Moulla, who hath other Cadies under him. There are also two Sous-Bashas, one of the Town, and the other of the Sea. All the Agas of the Castles of Alexandria, depend also on the Basha of Aegypt, who puts in and out whom he pleases.

CHAP. II. Of the Walls of Alexandria, the Pillar of Pompey, and other Antiquities.

I Said before that Alexandria is so ruined, that many Strangers ask where it is when they are in the middle of it; yet there are such fair remains to be found among the Ruines,* 1.5 as easily shew that this hath been a most rich and stately Town. One of the finest things that are to be seen there, are the Walls, which (though ruined) are still so magnificent, that one must needs confess they have been matchless; nay a good part of them are still entire; and they must needs have been strong Built to last so long. These Walls have false Brayes, and are flanked with great square Towers,* 1.6 about two hun∣dred paces distant from one another; and there is a little one betwixt every two of them; they are so neatly contrived, that there are stately Casemates underneath, which may serve for Gallery's and Walks. I had a very earnest desire to go into one of these Towers,* 1.7 that I might observe all the beauty of them, but as yet I durst not for fear of an Avanie or Fine; but being one day with another French man in the old Custome-house, which is only an open place, without any Building, and finding a Turk there who seemed to be good natured, we prayed him to lead us into the Towers of the old Walls, near to that place, which he very willingly condescended to do; we went into two of these Towers then, which are all alike; in each Tower below, there is a large square Hall, the Vault whereof is supported by great Pillars of Thebaick Stone; there are a great many Chambers above, and over all a large platform above twenty Paces square; in short, all these Towers were so many Palaces able to contain two hundred men a piece: The Walls are several foot thick, and every where Port-holes in them: in every one of these Towers there are several Cisterns, so that each of them required an Army to take them. All the ancient Town was encompassed with these lovely Walls, every way fortified by such Towers; of which most part are ruined at present; though those we went into were pretty entire: there is danger in going to see them, for the Turks finding Franks there, take occasion to amerce them, saying they are Spies, or some such thing, and then nothing but Money can bring them off; so that they pay dear enough for their Curiositie. When I went thither, there was a French man with me, who was so apprehensive of being surprized, that he had not the least satisfaction, though he had lived se∣veral years in that Country; but we had a little the more confidence that we had a Turk with us. Next to the Walls, the finest piece of antiquity that hath withstood the rage of time, is the pillar of Pompey,* 1.8 about two hundred Paces from the Town; it is upon a little height, which makes it to be seen a great way off, and stands upon a square Pedestal, above seven or eight foot high; and that Pedestal rests upon a square basis about twenty foot broad, and about two foot high, made up of several big Stones. The body of the Pillar is of one entire piece of Garnet, so high, that the world cannot match it; for it is eigh∣teen canes high, and so thick, that it requires six men to fathom it round, ha∣ving a lovely Capital on the top. Some have thought that this Pillar con∣sisted of three pieces, having heard Moors say so, who reckon three pieces in it, to wit, the Pedestal, the Body and the Capital, (as they themselves have told me) but the Body is all of one piece, as may plainly be seen. I know not what Engins they had in those times, wherewith they could raise such a piece; and I am very apt to believe with a great many more,* 1.9 that it hath been Cast or made of a certain Ciment upon the very place, though there be not a few that absolutely deny that; saying that the ancient Aegyptians got these Pillars and Oblisks, that are to be seen in so many places of Italy, at Saide, where they pretend that many have been cut out, and brought by Water

upon the Nile: If it be so, they must have had very extraordinary Barks or Carri∣ages to bring so great a weight, and in such Bulk: It is also true, that they had the secret of casting Stones, but we have lost it, since none of the Anci∣ents have Treated thereof. These Stones are very lovely, for they are greyish speckled with several colours, and extraordinary hard; the surface of them seems to be covered with little Grains. It is said that Caesar erected this Pillar in memory of the Victory which he obtained over Pompey. At fome Paces distance from thence is Caesars Palace,* 1.10 but all ruined, save some Pillars of Pomphyrie, that are still entire and standing, and the Frontispiece still pretty sound; which is a very lovely piece: About three or fourscore paces wide of that Pil∣lar there is a Khalis or Canal of the Nile,* 1.11 which was dug by the ancient Aegyptians, to bring the water of the Nile into Alexandria, having none other to drink. This Canal which is much about the breadth of that that runs through Caire, (whereof we shall speak hereafter) begins about six Leagues above Rossetto, on the side of the Nile, and from thence comes to Alexandria, and when the Nile swells, they give it a Passage through this Khalis, by breaking down a bank;* 1.12 as we shall take notice in speaking of that of Caire; this Water fills the Cisterns, which are purposely made underneath the Town, and are very magnificent and spacious; for Alexandria is all hallow under, being an entire Cistern; the Vaults whereof are supported by several fair Marble-Pil∣lars; and over these Arches the Houses of Alexandria were built; which made men say, that in Alexandria there was a Town under Ground, as big as that above Ground;* 1.13 and some have assured me that one may still walk under the whole Town of Alexandria in fair Streets, where the shops are still to be seen, but that the Turks suffer no body to go down. Now the Water of the Nile, which is so conveyed by the Khalis under the Town, serves the Inhabitants to drink all the year round;* 1.14 for every house has it drawn by Pouseragues, which pour it into their private Cisterns, as fast as it is drawn up. These Pousera∣gues are Wheels, with a Rope hanging round them like a string of Beads without an end, to which are fastened several earthen-Potts, which going empty down, come always full up again, and pour the Water into a Canal that con∣veys it whethersoever one pleases. But in the Months of August and Septem∣ber, which is the time when these Cisterns are filled; the new Water is un∣wholsome, and few that drink of it escape some Sickness or other; therefore several keep of the last years water until November. Besides that inconve∣nience, the Air of Alexandria is so bad during the months of July, August, September, and October, that many who ly upon the Ground at that time, fall into quartain Agues, which sometimes hold them several Years; I my self having known some who have kept them eight years. They who ly on Board of ships, (though in the Port) are not annoied with that bad Air. But to return to the Khalis, it has Gardens all along the sides of it, which are full of Limon and Orange-Trees, and a great many other Trees that bear a fruit like Oranges, but so big, that one cannot grasp them with both hands. These fruits are not good to be eaten raw, but they peal off the Rind of them, then cut them into quarters, and clearing them of the sower stuff, preserve them; which make a most excellent Conserve. As for the Limons, there are two sorts of them, some very great, which are not good to eat; and others as small as Wall-nuts,* 1.15 that are the best, because they are full of Juice, ha∣ving a very thin Skin, and the juice of them they squeeze upon Meat for Sauce, and likewise press it out with Presses, and therewith fill several Casks; which they send to Venice, and other places: And this juice serves for making of Sorbet. In these Gardens there are also Cassia-Trees, Carob-Trees, and the like; and the Fields about Alexandria are full of Palm-Trees, and Capers shrubs. Having seen these things, I returned into the Town by the Gate of Rossetto, where are many lovely Pillars of Porphyrian Marble; and I went to see the Chrrch of St. Catherine, held by the Greeks; there you may see the Stone on which that holy Virgin had her Head cut off.* 1.16 This Stone looks like a piece of round Pillar, is almost two foot high, and has a hole quite through it from one end to the other, big enough to receive ones Fist: the Greeks say, that just over that hole her Head was cut off, as may be seen by the marks that are in the hole, which is stained all round within with Blood

and Fat, as I could plainly see. This stone rests upon a marble-Pillar about four foot high, which the Greeks have purposely made to set it upon, Then I went to see the Church of St. Mark, held by the Cophtes,* 1.17 wherein is to be seen the Pulpit where that St. used to Preach, as also a Picture of St. Mi∣chael, which (they say) was drawn by St. Luke. St. Mark was the first Patri∣arch of Alexandria, where he suffered Martyrdom in the year 64. His Body was kept in that Church until Venetian Merchants transported it to Venice. After that, as I was going along the way that leads from Rossetto to the Town, they shewed me the ruines of the Palace of St. Catherines Father;* 1.18 which are hardly now considerable: Along that way also there are a great many fair Pillars of Porphyrian Marble to be seen. In another place I saw two very lovely Obelisks of Garnet, such as are in many places at Rome, with Hierogly∣fick figures upon them in the same manner: there is but one of them standing without a Pedestal, the other is buried in the Ground, nothing appearing above, but the Foot, about ten foot long; each of them are of one entire piece, of the same thickness, and perhaps are bigger than those of Rome. Near to these pillars are the ruines of the Palace of Cleopatra,* 1.19 which is ut∣terly defaced. They have so much Marble, Porphyrie and Garnet there, that they know not what to do with it; and adorn the Gates with them; as the Water-gate is beautified with four lovely Pieces of Thebaick-stone, or Gar∣net; one on each side, one cross over above, and one below, and yet that Gate is very high and wide; indeed, all they have to do, is to remove the Earth that covers these Stones, and transport them.* 1.20 Among the ruines of that Town, there are also some very curious stones to be found, which are little like Medals, and are Agats, Garnets, Emeralds, and the like; all En∣graved, some with a Head; some with an Idol; some with a Beast; and so all different, which heretofore have served for Medals, or Talismans;* 1.21 that is to say, Charms. But most of these Engraveings are so excellent, that certainly such cannot be made now a days, as I have seen, and have by me; so that the Engravers of those times, must have been excellent Artists; nay, it seems to me a doubt whether they might not have had the art of casting, or at least softning the Stones, for some of them are so little, that one has much adoe to finger them; and nevertheless they are Engraved to perfection. When it rains, the Moors search for them among the Ruines, and never fail to find some; then they come and sell them for a small matter to the Franks;* 1.22 but of late they hold them a little dearer, because of the emulation of the Franks, who come and out bid one another. When Strangers go to see these Antiquities, they take little Asses, which goe very fast, and stumble not; nay, will Gallop too, (if they be put to it) for Christians whether Franks or not, cannot ride on Horses through the Towns, but in the Country they may, if they please. The Asses stand ready in the Streets, and one has no more to do but to get up; they pay no more for a whole Afternoons use of them, but seven or eight Pence a piece; to wit, one half for the Ass, and as much for a Moor, who follows on Foot, and beats and pricks on the Ass now and then to make him go.

A farther Description of Alexandria, the Reader will find in the Second Part.

CHAP. III. Of Rossetto.

AFter I had seen what I thought fit in Alexandria, I resolved to go to Rossetto, and parted from Alexandria on Saturday Morning the sixth of January, with a Janizary whom the French Vice-Consul had given me to accompany me thither:* 1.23 we passed by Bouquier, twenty short miles from Al∣exandria; which is a Castle that defends a Road that is near to it, and lodged that night at the Maadie of Alexandria. Till you come to the Maadie there is no place to rest in, being all a Desart of Sand. This place is called Maadie, that is to say, Passage; because there is a Lake there to be crossed over in a Ferry-Boat, with a Rope fastened to both sides of the Water. The Maadie is thirty long miles from Alexandria. This water is very full of Fish, which renders a great Revenue to the Grand Signior. There is a little Kervanserai on the other side of this Water, where Travellers have a House over head for nothing, and may eat and drink, (if they have brought Provi∣sions along with them:) There we ate and drank, and lay upon the Field-beds that we carried with us.

Next day being Sunday, we set out in the Morning, and about noon came to Rossetto,* 1.24 threescore miles from Alexandria, but the miles indeed are short and all along the Sea-side. On our way we saw the place where the River of Nile discharges it self into the Sea, which is a very dangerous passage for Barks and Saiques;* 1.25 and close by shoar we saw the wrack of that Saique, which stranded the same day that the great Gallion was cast away in the Port of Alexandria, as I hinted at before. The danger is when the Sea is rough, for then it occasions an Eddy with the waters of the River, that turns the Vessel round and casts it on shoar, where it is sure to be split; and none can save themselves by Swimming, because of the force of the Waves, but the wise make the best shift they can in their Caiques.

* 1.26Rossetto, anciently called Canopus, lyes upon a branch of the Nile, which falls into the Sea five miles below the Town, next to Caire; it is reckoned the neatest Town of Aegypt; not only because of the lovely Piazza's but also the many fair Hans it contains, and yet they daily build new ones there; for indeed it is a Town of great Trafick, and very pleasant, as be∣ing all encompassed with lovely Gardens. The Houses of Rossetto are all high and well Built; it is good living there, as in all other places of Aegypt, where Victuals are very cheap, and wild-fowl especially, Water-fowl very plentiful, which they catch several ways; but the Town hath this Inconve∣nience, that in the Months of July and August. they drink no other water, but what they have gathered before into fair Cisterns, Leaded and made for that purpose; because (during that time) the Sea flows so high, that it mingles with the water of the Nile, and renders it Brackish. The branch of the Nile that runs by this Town makes a Port for Saiques, but great Ships cannot come up to it: this port is always full of Saiques, which come from the Archipelago to Trade in Aegypt. The Town is very carefully kept by the Sous-Basha, from all Disorders that might happen; but besides that Guard, there are threescore Men that in the Night-time march up and down to catch Robbers,* 1.27 who are Arabs of the Desarts: These Villains strip them∣selves stark-naked, then rub their Bodies over with Oyle, that one may not take fast hold of them, and in that manner come to the Town, where they Steal what they can find, and when they are pursued; cast themselves into the River, and swim over to the other side. I made no long stay at Rossetto; but knowing that every Tuesday and Friday Barks go off from Rossetto to Caire, I waited for the first opportunity, that I might go in company with several Barks, which is the way to be safe from the Pirates of the Nile, and having

hired a little Boat only for myself and my Servant, that I might be at more ease. I parted from Rossetto Friday the nineteenth of January, about Noon. These Barks are Caiques, or ordinary Boats, and I had a Tilt or Covering made of Matts in the Stern, to keep me from the Sun and the Dew, which on the Nile is very cold and piercing: It was very bad weather that day, how∣ever we went on, and Wednesday the twenty fourth of January, passed the place where the Chanel divides it self into two Branches, of which one goes to Rossetto, and the other to Damiette. The same day in the Evening we came to Boulac, which is the Port of Caire, though it be half a League from it.* 1.28 Boulac is a pretty big long and narrow Town, built upon the side of the Nile, and has many Gardens and country Houses about it. At Boulac we paid a Piastre a piece to some Jews; it being the custome that every Frank the first time he comes to Caire, pays a Piastre at Boulac. In my Voyage from Rossetto to Caire, I observed that all the land upon the Nile sides is excellently good; and really, Aegypt may be said to be an Earthly Paradise, but Inhabited by Devils; not only because the Inhabitants are Tawny, but also very Vicious, great Robbers especially, and such as will kill a Man for a penny; and indeed, they are very Poor; therefore when one goes by Water upon the Nile, he had need keep a good Guard against the Corsairs. During our Voyage in the night-time we lighted several Matches which we fastened round about our Bark on the out-side; and the Arabs seeing these Matches. easily take them for so many Musquets, which they are deadly afraid of, as not know∣ing the use of them; besides that, we had Fire-Arms, which we now and then Discharged, as well by night, as by day, that they might hear them: but notwithstanding all that, a Bark of Robbers came one night up with our Caiques, which one having discovered, he allarmed the rest, then all cried to them to keep off; thereupon they made answer in Turkish that we need not be afraid, for they were Friends, and would go in company with us; but when we called to them again, that if they did not stand off, we would Fire at them, they went their way. At Boulac we took Asses to carry us to Caire, half a League distant from thence; My Lord Honorie de Bermond, the French Consul, did me the favour to lodge me at his House. The French Consul, (as those of other Nations) resides at Caire, because the Basha lives there, so the Affairs of the Nation are the more conveniently managed: he hath two Vice-Consuls under him, whom he appoints as he thinks good, one at Rossetto, another at Alexandria; and sometimes one at Damiette, who depend upon none but him.

CHAP. IV. Of Caire.

THere are so many things to be seen at Caire, that a very large Book might be fill'd with the Relation of them; and seeing I made a conside∣rable stay there, and saw a good many of them, I shall here describe them in order, according to the several times I saw them in.

Caire, the Capital and Metropolitan City of Aegypt,* 1.29 before it fell under the Turkish Dominion, was in the later times Governed by Sultans, or Kings, who were taken from among the Mamalukes.* 1.30 These Mamalukes were all Circassian Slaves, bought of Merchants, who came and sold them to the Sultan of Aegypt, who presently made them renounce the Christian Religion; then committed them to the care of Masters of Exercise, by whom they were taught to bend the Bow, shoot exact, give a true thrust with a Launce, make use of Sword and Buckler, sit a Horse well, (for they were all Horse-men) and skilfully manage him. After that, they were advanced according to their merit, and the Cowards and Unhandy were left behind; so that all who were brave, might

rise to be Sultans; for by them the Sultan was chosen, and none who were not Mamalukes, could be Sultans; nor was any received to be a Mamaluke, that was not of Christian Extraction, those being excluded, who had either Mahometans or Jews to their Fathers. These Men were exterminated in the Year 1517. that Sultan Selim the First Conquered all Aegypt; and at the taking of Caire,* 1.31 their Sultan, called Tbomambey, who was the last Sultan of Aegypt, falling into his hands, he put him to an ignominious death, the Thirteenth of April 1517. causing him to be Hang'd at one of the Gates of Caire, called Babzuaila,* 1.32 and for ever rooting out the Mamalukes, who were cut off to the last man. Since that time, the Turks have always been Masters of it. This City stands ill,* 1.33 for it is at the foot of a Hill on which the Castle is built, so that the Hill covers it, and intercepts all the Wind and Air, which causes such a stifling heat there, as engenders many Diseases; whereas if it stood in the place where Old Caire is, in the first place, they would have the benefit of the River, which is of great importance, were it only for water to drink; for the water must be brought into all parts of Caire in Borachios upon Camels backs, which feth it from Boulac, above half a league from the City, and yet that is the nearest place: Hence it is that so much bad water is drank at Caire, because those who go to bring it on their Camels, that they make the more returns, take it out of the Birques or stinking Pooles,* 1.34 that are nearer than the River, and for all that, sell it very dear. They would besides have the advantage of the Wind, which blows on all hands along the River, so that the heat would not be so prejudicial; nay more, it would be a great help to Trade, in that it would ease them of the labour and charges of loading their Goods on Camels, to carry them from the City to the Port, or from the Port to the City: And indeed,* 1.35 the Antients chose a very good Situation for Memphis, on the other side of the River; and Old Caire hath since been built opposite to Memphis also, upon the River: But the Later, who ought to correct the faults of the more Ancient, (if they were guilty of any) have committed the greatest errours; for I can see no reason why they have pitched upon that incommodious Situa∣tion, unless it was (perhaps) to joyn the City to the Castle, that so it might be under the protection thereof.

Caire is a very great City, full of Rabble; it lies in form of a Crescent, but is narrow, and they are in the wrong, who perswade themselves that Caire is bigger than Paris; I once went round the City and Castle, with two or three other French-men; we were mounted on Asses, not daring to go on foot, for fear of some bad usage;* 1.36 but we went at a foot pace, and as near as we could, no faster than a man might walk, and we were two hours and a quarter in making that round, which is somewhat more than three, but not four French Leagues. I walked once on foot also the whole length of the Khalis, from end to end, which is exactly the length of the City of Caire, for it is a Street that goes through the middle of it, from one end to another. I set out early in the morning with a Janizary, that I might not be by any hindred in my design, or abused; and being come to the end, about St. Michael's, I alighted, and having set two Watches which I had in my pocket at the same hour, I began to walk pretty fast: when I came to the other end of Khalis, I found that we had been almost three quarters of an hour in going the length of it; and I could un∣dertake to perform it very well in half an hour, if I had not on Turkish Shoes, as I had at that time, which was a great hindrance to me, for at every turn my Paboutches slipt off my feet; and besides I was in my Vest, that likewise retarded my going. I reckoned also all the steps I made, putting at each hundred paces, a bean in my pocket, and at the end I found one and fifty beans in my pocket, which are five thousand one hundred of my paces, about two foot and a half each pace. It is to be minded also, that within the Precincts of it, there are several places not inhabited, as several Birques, about which there are goodly Houses; but to say the truth likewise, the places that are inhabited, are very full. Those who would have Caire to be bigger than Paris, when they speak of Caire, comprehend therein Old Caire, and Boulac; but that cannot rationally be done, else I may comprehend within Paris, all the Villages that are about it; for Old Caire is separated from the New, by Fields; and Boulac is another Town, divided from Caire by several ploughed Grounds: There is also near

Caire, on the way to Boulac, a very large place, called Lesbike, which contains many Acres of Land. When the Khalis runs, this place is under water, and continues so four or five months, after which they fow several things there, that grow a pace, the ground being very fat. This spacicus place is surrounded with many very lovely Palaces of Beys, and other Great Men of the Countrey, who go thither now and then to divert themselves for some days. But to my pur∣pose again, I think I may confidently say, that Caire is not so big as Paris; but I believe it is more populous, for there are in it ugly Sties or Holes, rather than Houses, full of Women and Children, who never stir out of doors, because in the Turkish Empire, the Women go neither to Market, nor any other place out of doors, but only to the Bath, and yet the streets are always full of people, and when a Plague sweeps away two hundred thousand Souls in Caire, it is not perceived. Several have written that Caire has no Walls, and that, perhaps, has made them confound Caire with Boulac and Old Caire, but they have not look'd well about them, for Caire is encompassed round with very fair and thick Walls; they are built of good Stone, which is still so white, that one would say they were newly built, if it were not to be known by the great cracks which are in many places, that they are very ancient. These Walls have very handsome Battlements, and at less than an hundred paces interval, lovely Towers, able to contain many People; they have been built very high, but are at present all covered with Ruines, which are so high, that I have pass'd over some places where they wholly hide the Walls, and are much above them; and in those places one would think there were no Wall, if (where the Ruines are lower) it were not to be seen carried on as the rest is: And though it would be very easie to clear the Rubbish, and by repairing what is wanting, make the Walls appear beautiful and high, yet the Turks make no Reparations, but suffer all to run to decay. And so have they suffered a large and the loveliest part of the Castle to fall to ruine, through their neglect in repairing it near to the said Walls. In many places there are great Church-yards, full of Sepulchres, ador∣ned with fair Stones, that yield a pleasant Prospect, and would suffice for building of a Town. All agree,* 1.37 that there are three and twenty thousand Precincts in Caire, and as many Mosques, in every Precinct there being one Mosque at least, and some having more. A Precinct is a Quarter, and in some of them there are several Streets: Each Precinct is watched by two Men, who are chained together by one Chain, that they may not separate: These Men voluntarily undertake the office, for the profit they make of certain Dues, and the Officers of the Sous-Basha keep the Keys of the Padlocks that lock up their Chains; there are more Mosques then, than Precincts; and indeed, I could never perswade my self that there were three and twenty thousand Precincts in Caire; it is true, all the streets of Caire are very short and narrow, except the street of the Bazar, and the Khalis, which is dry but three months of the year, and few people go in it too; there is not a fair street in all Caire, but a great many little ones that go turning and winding; which shews, that all the Houses of Caire have been built without any design of making a City, every one pitching upon the ground he lik'd best to build upon, without considering if the Houses stopt a street or not. As for the Mosques,* 1.38 I am apt to believe there are three and twenty thousand; but of that number, a good many are but Holes or liitle Chappels, not ten paces square: Not but that there are also several fair large Mosques, most magnificent Buildings, adorned with lovely Frontispieces and Gates, with very high Minarets; and the greatest of all is Dgemiel-Azem.* 1.39 The Houses of Caire are several stories high, with flat and Terrrasse roofs, as all over Turkie, and there they take the fresh air, when the Sun is down; nay seve∣ral lye upon them in the Summer-time: They make no Shew at all on the out∣side, but within you see nothing but Gold and Azure, at least in the Houses of Persons of Quality; and most of their Halls have an open round hole in the roof or feeling to let in plenty of fresh air, which is a very precious thing in that Countrey; and commonly there is a Cupulo or Lanthorn over that hole, with many windows round it, to let in or keep out the wind.

CHAP. V. Of the Pyramides.

HEretofore there have been such powerful Kings in Aegypt, who have un∣dertaken so great Works, that it is not to be thought strange, if in spight of Time it self (which devours all things) some pieces of them have re∣mained till our days; or rather it is to be wondred that so little remains of so many Magnificences, which heretofore made Aegypt so Renowned all over the World;* 1.40 but nothing has braved Time so much, as the Pyramides that are to be seen near to Caire, doubtless they deserve very well to be seen, since they have merited a place among the Wonders of the World. But there are some things to be taken notice of, in this little Progress from Caire to the Pyramides, and (if I mistake not) I have observed them here exactly enough. Having designed to go see the Pyramides, the Evening before, I hired Asses and Moors, that I might set out next Morning be-times; these Beasts are much used in Aegypt, and carry one conveniently enough at an easie Trot, and sometimes a good Gallop too. There are of them to be hired in the Corners of most of the Quarters of Caire, and are ready Sadled, so that there needs no more but to get up. The Franks put little Carpets over the Sadles, made for the pur∣pose, and Stirrups for greater Convenience: If you will, the Moor that letts the Ass will follow, to drive him on, and be careful to cry (Take heed.) And I found it necessary for a Frank, to take one with him, paying as much for the Moor as for the Ass; however no Body is obliged to take a Moor unless they please, yet in this Progress they are absolutely necessary, for clearing the Entry of the Pyramides, as I shall say hereafter. I hired Moors and Asses, not only to Ride on, but also to carry our Provisions, for one must Dine there. And seeing I had a design to go from thence to see the Mummies, I provided for two or three days; there is nothing to be found in those parts, but what Men carry along with them, and I acquainted a Janizary of the Consuls, to be ready with his Musquet to go along with me. Next day taking our Fowling-Pieces with us, both to shoot by the Way, and to defend us against the Arabs. We set out by break of Day with our Janizary, armed with Sword and Musquet, and took our way by old Caire, about half a French League from Caire, where being come, we crossed the Water over against the Pyramides. On the other side of the Water there is a Village, and some more beyond it towards the Pyramides,* 1.41 with several Birques also, where there is always Game; at length we came to the Pyramides, which are three Leagues from Caire. The Pyra∣mides which the Turks call Pharaon Daglary, and the Arabs Dgebel Pharaon, that is to say, Pharaoh's Hills, are cheifly three, which are seen from Caire, and a great way beyond it.* 1.42 There are others, as that of the Mummies, and and many more that are not considerable. One of these three Pyramides is little in respect of the other two, and is shut up; the other two are great, and many (not without reason) doubt which of the two is the bigger, how∣ever, the bigger is certainly that which is open, which Men mount and enter into. The other is shut, and by consequence, one can neither enter nor go up it. They say, that heretofore at the entry of that which is open, there was a great Stone cut purposely to stop the Mouth of it, when the Body that was to lie there was put in, which stopt it so exactly, that neither the place that was stopt, nor the Stone which stopt it, could be known or distinguished; but that a Basha caused that vast Stone to be removed, that there might be no way afterward for shutting up the Pyramide.* 1.43 I took the Dimensions of this Pyramide, and having compared them with the Measures of the Reverend Father Elzear the Capucin, I found him to have bene as exact as one possibly could be, there not being the third part of a Barley-corn difference betwixt him and me; and therefore I shall not at all scruple to use his own Terms in

some places. When you come to that Pyramide, you must lay aside what heavy things you have about you, and prepare to mount up to the top, whilst your Moors are clearing the passage to go in; for the Wind drives always a great deal of Sand into it, which stops the passage to the bottom, and the Moors cast out that Sand. Besides, if one should go in before he went up to the top, he would be so weary when he came out, that he would never resolve to go up; and then, it is best going up before the Sun be high. It is fit you should have a Guide to go before you when you ascend, I mean, some Frank, who hath been already there; for if you do not take the right Way, you'll soon come to such places, where you can neither go up nor down, without danger of tumbling headlong. The easiest place to go up at,* 1.44 is the Angle that looks betwixt East and North. This Pyramide has Two hundred and eight great Stone-steps, the thickness of a Stone making a step of about Two Foot and a half high one with another, for some of them are thicker, and above Three Foot high, as I measured them; this number of steps has been observed by several, though some reckon fewer, and others more. Nay, a Man coming again a second time, shall not find the same number that he had at first, if he begin not to ascend at the same place; because betwixt the Corners towards the middle of the Front, there is a little Hill of Sand driven there by the Wind, that covers several steps, which they that go up at that place reckon not: Besides, that the trouble in going up, makes one often miscount; for you must set your Knees upon several steps because of their heighth, and then some reckon half steps for whole ones. Many think that these steps have only been made by the Weather, but in all appearance, that could not have worn them out so regularly, though without doubt, it eats out a great deal, as may be seen by the pieces that lie all round below.* 1.45 This Pyramide is Five hundred and twenty Foot high, upon a Base of Six hundred and eighty two Foot square; about half way up, in one of the Angles of the Pyramide, that looks betwixt East and North, which is the place by which I should advise one to go up; there is a little square Room, but nothing to be seen therein,* 1.46 only if you be Weary you may rest in it: And I am not against what several do, who bring with them a little Bottle, or Gourd, full of Wine, to refresh them∣selves when they are got there, or up to the top, for it makes one very faint. When you are come up to the top, you find a fair Platform,* 1.47 from whence you have a pleasant Prospect. This Platform which from below appears to you like a Point, is made of twelve lovely large Stones, being sixteen Foot and two thirds square; there are some Stones wanting, and it is to be believed, that they have been pushed down by Men, for the Weather could not do it. A Man,* 1.48 unless he be extraordinary strong, cannot indeed, throw a Stone from the top, and make it fall beyond the steps of the Pyramide. For I got a pretty strong Man to throw one, and all he could do, was to make it fall upon the twelfth step, or a little lower. But I look upon it as a Fable, that one cannot shoot an Arrow beyond the foundation of the Pyramide; for it is certain, that an Arrow drawn by a good Arm, will easily flie Three hundred and one and forty Foot, which is one half of the breadth of the Pyramide.

Having considered these things,* 1.49 we came down the same way that we went up, and having taken a little rest, came to the Door of the Pyramide, which is at the sixteenth step as you go up, looking towards the North; it is not exactly in the middle, there being Three hundred and ten Foot of the side be∣low to the East of it, which being substracted from Six hundred eighty two, there remain Three hundred seventy two Foot to the West side; so that this side surpasses the other by Sixty two Foot. Caire lies Northward from it. Now to come to this Door, you must go up a little Hill,* 1.50 joyned to the Pyra∣mide on that side, which (as I said before) hath in my opinion, been made by the Sand which the Wind hath brought there, and so risen up to a heap,* 1.51 because it could go no further, by reason of the Pyramide. The Lintel over this Door is very considerable, being one Stone eleven Foot long, and eight Foot thick: Before any go in, they make the Janizary fire two or three Musquet-shot into it, to frighten away (as they say) the Serpents that are there; but I never heard of any that had been found in it. The entry is square, and all along of a like Dimension, being three Foot six Inches High, and three

Foot three Inches Wide: This passage, or rather sink-hole, as being very steep and shelving, continuing in the same heighth and breadth, goes sloaping down Seventy six Foot, five Inches and two Barley Corns in length: At the bottom of that Descent, you find an Ascent of the same wideness, and shelving in the same manner as the former, by which one goes up some three Foot; and the greatest difficulty of the Pyramide, is at this place. For fancy to your self, that this Descent butting in the Ascent, makes with it a sharp Ridg, over which there is a great Stone, which is the lowermost Stone of the Roof of the Descent, and is perpendicular to it, betwixt which and the Sand, there is not above a good Foots-space to pass through; so that one must slide upon his Belly close upon the Ground, and for all that, you rub and grate your Back against the aforesaid Stone, unless you be a very slender Man; and besides, you must advance with your feet up in the Descent, your Belly low betwixt the Descent and next Ascent, and your Head rising up in the beginning of the same Ascent. In short, in this narrow pass, one must crawl like a Serpent, and therefore it is very painful, so that a thick Man would be stiffled in the Sand, unless he were speedily pulled out by the Feet; for the Head must go first, it being utterly impossible that the Feet should. This passage however, might be made easie and passable enough, if the Moors would take the pains to clear the Hole well, I mean, take out the Sand: For I went thither another time, when we were told, some of the Basha's Servants had been there three days before, being curious to see what it was that obliged the Franks to go into it, because none but Franks go there; and we fonnd the passage so clean and easie, that we passed it without putting either Belly or Knee to the Ground. And I make no doubt, but it is as high there, as at the entry into the Pyramide, but the Wind driving in much Sand, it heaps up in this place; and the Moors, who are naturally Lazie, after they have removed two or three Load, carry out no more, unless they be very well pay'd, and threatned with a good Cudgel besides; which Christians dare not do, nor yet desire that their Jani∣zary should, for fear of an Avanie. Having past this streight, every one takes a lighted Candle (and for that end, you must not forget to bring seve∣ral with you) and a Steel and Tinder-box also, because of a great many Bats that are there, which sometimes put out your Candles, which may go out also by many other accidents. There you find a sultry stiffling Air, which nevertheless, you'll be soon accustomed to, before you go up the in∣ner Ascent. You'll find an ugly Hole on your Right hand, which reaches a pretty way, it hath not (in all probability) been purposely made, but only by the decayings of Time; and is as narrow at the end, as at the mouth. Having then gone about an Hundred and eleven Foot in the aforesaid Ascent, you find as it were two Passages or Galleries,* 1.52 one low and parallel to the Ho∣rizon, and the other high sloaping upwards like the former. There is a Well or pit at the entry of the first passage; of which I shall speak hereafter. This low passage is three Foot and three Inches square, and leads to a Room not far distant, with a sharp-ridged Seeling or Roof; and near to this, or at least pretty high,* 1.53 several affirm that there is a Window, which gives a passage into other places, but that one must have a Ladder to get up to it. For my part, I maintain that there is no such Window, with respect still to those who say there is, and they must have taken a kind of dampness which is in that place for a Window; for three times I assayed to find it out, and every time carried a Rope-Ladder, which I had made with Hooks to get up with; but having carefully searched about with several Torches, neither I, nor any that were with me could find it. From the first passage you go up to the other, seven or eight Foot high, putting youc Feet in holes that are made in the Wall. This other passage that mounts upwards, is six Foot four Inches wide, and reaches in that manner an Hundred threescore and two Foot, having on each side (as it were) two little Benches, two Foot and a half high, to lean upon, and Holes in the Ground at every step, to rest ones Feet in. At the end of this passage is the Hall,* 1.54 being thirty two Foot in length, nineteen in heighth, and sixteen in breadth; the Roof of it is flat, consisting of Nine Stones, the seven in the middle being sixteen Foot long, and four Foot broad a piece, the other two at each end, appear not to be above two Foot broad a

piece, but the reason is because the other half of them is built into the Wall; they are of the same length as the other seven, all seven reaching a cross the breadth of the Hall, with their ends resting upon the walls on each side. At the end of that Hall there is an empty Tomb all of one stone, that sounds like a great Bell; it is three foot and an Inch wide, three foot and four Inches high, and seven foot two inches long: this stone is very hard, looks like a kind of Porphyrie, and is very neat when polished, which makes many break off pieces of it to make Seals of; but it requires a strong Arm and good Ham∣mer to knock off a bit.* 1.55 The Walls of the Hall are faced with stones of the same sort, though to some they seem not so fine; but they are the very same.

It is the common opinion of all, that this Tomb was made for the same Pharao, who by the permission of God, was Drowned in the Red-Sea, he and his whole Army, who were in pursuit of the Jews, at that time the chosen People of God. As to the doubt that many people make, whether this Tomb was placed there before the Pyramide was Built; I think it is not at all to be doubted, but that it was set there before the Pyramide was finished; for though the entry be wide enough for the Tomb, yet the ascent that immediately succeeds to the descent, must have hindred the conveyance of it.

As to the Pit which I mentioned before, into which no man ever descended for ought we knew, before the Month of September, 1652. That the Reverend father Elzear, a Capuchin, with some others went down: finding what dan∣ger there was in descending, I would not attempt it, though I had brought Ropes purposely with me; especially since I knew from the relation of Father Elzear that there was nothing Curious therein; but a Scotish Gentleman with whom I was, fastened himself to Ropes, and having taken in his hand a little Wax-candle lighted, our Moors let him down; and that was the second time that any had descended into it. This Gentleman being come up again, gave me a relation wholly conform to that of Father Elzear; and since that, I have got others to go down, who told me the same things. As you go then from the first passage or Gallery we mentioned before on the right hand that is like a Door, you find this Well, which goes down in a perpendicular line, that nevertheless crooks a little, and makes in a manner the figure of a Spit, or of a Hebrew Lamed; so that sixty seven foot down from the top, there is a square Window, that enters into a little Cave hallowed in the Hill, which in that place is not a Rock, but like Gravel, or well compacted peble-stones, and this Grott or Cave reaches East and West fifteen foot from thence,* 1.56 and eighty two in all, from the top or mouth thither; there is a very steep shel∣ving and almost perpendicular hole or descent cut in the Rock, about two foot and a third part of a foot wide, and two foot and a half high, reaching downwards an hundred twenty three foot, and then it is full of Sand, and the dung of Batts, which so swarm there, that the Scot told me he was afraid he should have been ate up by them, and that he was forced to guard his Candle with both hands, lest they should have put it out; there are some stones in it also, which have been thrown down from the top, or have fal∣len of themselves, as it happened while my Scot was below; for setting a foot against the Rock on each side, as he was comeing up again, a Stone fell which had brained him, if it had fallen upon his Head, but it fell upon the Candle, put it out, and beat it down to the bottom.

In all probability this Pit hath only been made to let down the Bodies which were laid in the Caves that are under the Pyramide. When the Scotish Gentleman was come up, I made a man hold a Candle at the top of the second passage, and going down to the bottom near the streight turning, I looked up to the Candle, which was a pretty pleasant Object, appearing then no big∣ger than a little Star. At length when we were got out of this Pyramide, we were made sensible of an errour we had committed, for our Janizary that had never been within before, entred with us, and by good luck going out again a little after with some of our company,* 1.57 they espied six Arabs on Horse-back, making up to the Pyramide, but he having presented his Musquet and our Men their Fowling-pieces at them, they went back as they came: if they had come a moment sooner, they had taken all our Provisions,

and stripped us stark naked as fast as we came out. To prevent such a danger, the best way is to leave the Janizary and some of the company without to keep guard.

Having reflected a little on the danger which we had escaped, we viewed the second Pyramide,* 1.58 that is shut, and nothing of it to be seen but the out-side, which is six hundred thirty one foot square.

* 1.59The third is but little, and not very considerable. In all probability, it hath been heretofore faced with Stones like that of Pharaoh's Tomb, which are tumbled down, as may be seen by many pieces lying about the said Pyramide, some of them being very great. Pliny speaking of these Pyramides, says, That that which was open,* 1.60 was twenty years in building, by three hundred and seventy thousand Men; and that one thousand eight hundred Talents were laid out during that time, only in Turnips and Onions, a thing not hard to be believed by those who have seen these wonderful Structures, wherein there are such prodigiously great Stones, and raised so high, that they must have had extraordinary Engines for that purpose; and all men know, that the ancient Aegyptians were great Eaters of Onions, nay, and that the Jews longed for them in the Wilderness; and at this hour they retain much of their Fore-fathers temper, for they are great lovers of Turnips and Pulse.

Really these Pyramides are Wonders worthy of the ancient Kings of Aegypt, who for magnificence in Buildings, exceeded all others of their time; and I believe (without disparagement to any) that no Prince in the World is able to raise such Works, aswel for the difficulty of piling up so many huge Stones one over another, as for the tediousness of the labour. Many think it very strange whence they could have such large Stones, and in so great a quantity, seeing the Countrey all about is nothing but Sand; but they have not minded, that under that Sand there are Rocks, out of which they had the Stones; besides several neighbouring Mountains that abound in Stone; though (some say) that they were brought from Saide upon the Nile.

It is the Opinion of many, that these Pyramides were heretofore higher above ground, than they are at present, but that the Sand hath covered a good part of their Bases; and it is not unlikely, seeing the North-side is covered up so to the very door, and the three other sides are not, which makes men think, that it blowing more violently from the North, than from any other corner; the wind hath driven more Sand on that side, than other Winds hath on the other sides.* 1.61 Before each of the three Pyramides, the marks of certain square Buildings are still to be seen, which seem to have been so many Temples; and there is a hole at the end of the pretended Temple of the second Pyramide, by which (some think) there was a way down within the Temple to go to the Idol, which is a few steps distant from that hole. The Arabs call this Idol Abou el haoun,* 1.62 that is to say, Father of the Pillar, which Pliny calls Sphynx, saying, that the People of the Countrey believe King Amasis was buried in it: I am sure they believe no such thing at present, nor so much as know the Name of Amasis; and indeed, it is an erroneous belief. Others say, that a King of Aegypt caused this Figure to be made in memory of a certain Rhodope,* 1.63 a Corinthian Woman, with whom he was much in love. It is said, that this Sphynx, so soon as the Sun was up, gave responses to any thing it was consulted about; and hence it is that all who go into the Pyramides, fail not to say, that a Priest conveyed himself into that Idol, by the Pit or Well in the Pyramide which we just now described. But to shew how groundless an Opinion that is, we must know how the Idol is made: It is the Bust of a Body, at some steps distance from the open Pyramide, cut out of the natural Rock, from which it hath never been separated, though it seem to be of five Stones pieced together one upon another; but having very attentively considered it, we observed, that that which at first seemed to be seams or joynings of the Stones, are only veins in the Rock:* 1.64 This Burst represents the face and breast of a Woman, but it is prodigiously high, being twenty six foot in height, fifteen foot from the ear to the chin, and yet all the proportions exactly observed: Now what pro∣bability is there to believe, that every day a man would take the pains, and venture the breaking of his neck, by descending into that Pit, that being at the bottom, he might only have the labour of coming up again, for there is no

passage there, as they who have gone down have observed; a passage must have been cut in the Rock then, which would have cost a great deal of Money, and been known of every Body. It were more probable to think that they entered it by the Hole, which (as I said) is in the pretended Temple of the second Pyramide, or rather by another, which is at the side of that Idol, and very near it. These two Holes are very narrow, and almost choaked up with Sand, wherefore we entred not into them, not knowing besides, but that we might meet with Vipers, or other Venemous Beasts in them. But though there had been a way through the Rocks into that Idol, how could the Voice of that feigned Oracle have come out, since there is no hole neither at the Mouth, Nose, Eyes, nor Ears of it? It may be said, perhaps, that the Voice was uttered by the Crown of the Head, where there is a Hole, into which we en∣deavoured to have cast some Hooks fastened to Ropes, that I had brought pur∣posely with me, that we might get up, but we could not compass that, be∣cause of the height of it; only when we threw up Stones, they rested there. And a Venetian assured me. that he and some others, having got up by means of little Hooks and a Pole, which they brought with them; they found a Hole in the Crown of the Head of it, and having entred therein. perceived that it drew narrower and narrower proportionably, as it approached to the Breast where it ended. The Voice of him that entred then, by the above∣mentioned Holes, did not come out that way, and therefore it must be con∣cluded, that if any entred it, it must have been by a Ladder in the Night-time, and that he put himself into the hole that is in the Head, out of which his Voice came.

CHAP. VI. Of the Mummies.

HAving viewed the Pyramides and Idol,* 1.65 we went and Lodged in the Vil∣lage of the Mummies, called Sakara, three good Leagues from the Pyramides; we spoke to a Moor of the Village, who is the Master of the Mum∣mies, that he would take care to have a Mummie-Pit opened for us against next Morning. He carried us to a House,* 1.66 where we Supped on what we had brought along with us, and then went to rest upon a little Rising in the Court: When we were about to go out next Morning, they asked Money for Watching us (as they said) all Night; and it was to no purpose for us to tell them that we wanted none of their Watching, and that we had care enough to Guard our selves; for all our Huffing was in vain, and there they shut us in, till we gave a Piastre to be let out. They who would not be so imposed upon, ought to lie abroad in the Fields; but that's not safe, for they are very greedy of Money, and spare not to do any thing so they may come by it. And as they fancy, that the Franks carry always a good deal about them, when they have them in their Clutches, they squeese from them all they can. Wherefore when any one goes there, he ought to be well Accompanied, well Armed, and have a good stout Janizary, and with all that, one must not venture to beat them; for if he did, he would soon have all the Rabble about his Ears. We parted then from that Village early in the Morning, with the Master of the Mummies, and went to the Plain where the Mummie-Pits are, a little way from the Village,* 1.67 and (I think) it would be very convenient to set out two Hours before day, to avoid the heat of the Sun, for there is no shelter there. This Plain begins near the place where the stately City of Memphis heretofore stood, of which some marks are still to be seen near the Nile. There are several Pyramides in this Plain, and that for several Miles together; but not being very considerable, I shall only speak of a very fair one, which is four or five Miles from the Place, where they opened a Mummis-Pit for us. Having

then agreed with the Master of the Mummies, that for eight Piastres he would open me a Pit,* 1.68 that had never been opened before, and paid him down the Money, for otherwise they would not work; he with two Moors, fell to the Business. Whilst they were at work, we went to see the Pyramide, I men∣tioned before, which would be nothing short of the beauty of the first, if it had been finished. We went up to the top before we entred it, as we did at the former; it has an Hundred and forty eight steps, of large Stones like the other, the Platform of it is not even, the Stones being put together without order, which makes it easily appear that it hath not been finished, and yet it is much older than the other; as is evident by the Stones which are all worn out, and crumbled into Sand. It is Six hundred forty three Foot square, and hath its entry at the fourth part of its height, looking towards the North as the former; it hath on the East-side Three hundred and sixteen Foot, and by consequence, Three hundred twenty seven to the West. There is but one single passage into it, three Foot and a half broad, and four Foot high, which reaching Two hundred sixty seven Foot downwards, ends in a Hall with a steep Ridged Roof, Five and twenty Foot and a half in length, and eleven in breadth; in the corner of the Hall, there is another Passage or Gallery, parallel to the Horizon, three Foot square within, and nine Foot and a half long, which leads to another Chamber, that is One and twenty Foot in length, and eleven in breadth, with a very high Ridged Roof also, having at the West-end a square Window, Twenty four Foot and two thirds raised from the Floor, by which one enters into a passage indifferent broad, and of a Mans height, Parallel to the Horizon, and reaching in length thirteen Foot and two Inches: There is a great Room, or Hall, at the end of this passage, with a Ridged Roof, containing in length Twenty six Foot eight Inches, and in breadth Twenty four Foot and one Inch; the Floor of it is the natural Rock, which on all sides is rough and unequal, leaving only a little smooth and even space in the middle, encompassed round with the Rock, and much lower than the entry into the Room, or the foundation of the Wall. When we had viewed this Pyramide, we returned to the Mummies, and found them digging our Pit; but they Cheated us (as they do many others) opening a Pit that had been twenty times opened before, though they swore it was the first time. Now this advantage is to be had by going down into a Pit never opened be∣fore, that one may find Idols and other Curiosities there; but when these Rascals find any thing, they keep it, that they may sell it in the City to the Franks, and therefore never open a new Pit, but when they are alone. These Pits are square, and built of a pretty good Stone, but are full of Sand, which must be taken out.* 1.69 When they had removed the Sand, they let us down by a Rope made fast about our Middle, which was held by those that were above, and the Pit was two or three Pikes length deep; being at the bottom, we crept through a little hole upon our Belly, because they had not cleared it sufficiently of the Sand, and entred into a little Room, walled and arched over with Stone. There we found three or four Bodies, but only ore that was entire, the rest being broken into pieces, which easily convinced us, that that Pit had been opened before. We were then for having that opened which was entire, but they would not, unless they were paid for it; and therefore I gave them a Piastre, which did not content them. But when they perceived that I was about to break it up in spight of them, without giving them one Farthing more,* 1.70 they beat it into pieces. This was a long and large Body, in a very thick Coffin of Wood, shut close on all hands; the Timber was not at all Rotten, and we found it to be Sycamore-Wood, which in Aegypt they call Pharoah's Fig-Tree, that does not rot so soon as other Wood. Upon the Coffin,* 1.71 the Face of him that was within it, was cut in Embossed Work. Some Coffins there are also of Stone, with the Face of the Person within, cut in Boss, and Hieroglyphicks all along the length of it. There are two of these Stones in the House of Monsieur Fouquet, at St. Mande, and I had two of them also, of which one was broken at Alexandria, and the other I brought Home with me very whole, which weighs betwixt Seaven and eight hundred weight.* 1.72 Some of these Coffins are made of several pieces of Cloth pasted together, which are as strong as the Wooden ones. I have one

of this kind in my Closet, made of above forty Cloths glewed or pasted toge∣ther in thickness, which are not in the least Rotten; it is covered all over with Idols and Hieroglyphicks, painted on a very thin Plaister, with which the out-side Cloth is dawbed over, but it is a little spoil'd, the Plaister in some places being rubbed off. Among these Figures, there is a Compartement at the lower end, two Inches broad, and a Foot long, being painted cross-ways over the Coffin; wherein may be seen the manner how the Ancient Aegyptians Embalmed dead Bodies. In the middle of this Compartement, there is a long Table shaped like a Lion, on the back of which the Body that is to be Embalmed is laid at length, and hard by there is a Man with a Knife in his Hand opening the Body; this Man hath on a Vizard-Mask, shaped like the Beak of a Sparrow-Hawk, which (without doubt) was the custome of their Embalmers, who made use of that kind of Mask, that they might not breath in the Corruption that might evaporate from the dead Bodies, as the Physi∣tians of Italy do at present, who in time of a Plague never stir abroad without a Mask of this kind, in the long Nose of which they put Perfumes; though I make no doubt, but the Mask I speak of, is the Head of Osiris, which the Aegyptians represented with the Head of a Sparrow-Hawk, as they did Anubis with the Head of a Dog, the Nile with a Lions Head, &c. But as a surer mark that it is an Embalming, there are four Vessels without Handles upon the aforesaid Table, which could be nothing else but the Vessels wherein the ne∣cessary drugs were kept not only for the Embalming, as Balm, Cedria, &c. but also for the wrapping up and Incrustation of the Body, as Bitumen, and others; by the sides of the Table, there are several Persons standing and sitting in divers postures. Within this Coffin is the figure of a naked Maid, with her Arms streatched out.

But to return to my first Discourse, This Wooden Coffin I mentioned, be∣ing broken to pieces with Hatchets, we found an entire Body in it, which lay in this manner.* 1.73 The Face was covered (as commonly all the rest are) with a kind of Head-piece of Cloth fitted with Plaister, on which the Countenance of that Person was represented in Gold, and when we took off the Helmet, we found nothing of the Face remaining, which is commonly reduced to Ashes; I believe it is, because it will not admit of Gumming so well as the other parts of the Body. However I brought to Paris the Head of a Mummie, whole and entire, but it is all covered with Fillets of Cloth, so neatly fitted,* 1.74 that they hinder not but one may see the shape of the Eyes, Nose, and Mouth. The rest of the Body was swathed with little Bands of Cloth very neatly made, but wrapped about with so many casts and turnings, that I believe there were above a Thousand Ells in it; and certainly it is so rare a way of Swathing and Binding, that I think it cannot be imitated at present, as many Chirurgeons have acknowledged to me. Along the Breast and Belly, there was a band of Cloth three good Fingers broad, and a large Foot and a half long, it was fast∣ned to the other Bands, and upon it were several Hieroglyphicks done in Gold. I took this Writing and folded it, that I might the more conveniently carry it up with me. I hoped to have found Idols in that Coffin,* 1.75 knowing that they Interred many with their Dead, either of Stone, Copper, or Green Earth, as I have several that have been found in these Bodies, but finding none, I thought there might be some within his Body; for after they had Emboweled them, they pretty often enclosed Idols within their Bellies; for that end I had it broken up, but we could find nothing. I considered then that Balm which is now quite lost, it is Black, hard and shines like Pitch, having much such a smell, but more pleasant, that kept Bodies entire, and (I believe) the Sand contributed not a little thereto; for even in the great Desarts of Arabia, sometimes the dead Bodies of Men and Dogs are found entire, who falling asleep, and staying behind the Caravans,* 1.76 are covered over with an ocean of Sand driven by the high Winds, in which the Bodies being buried, are by the driness and salt that is in the Sand, which dries up all the humidity of them, preserved entire, and are afterwards found, when another Wind blowing, carries off the Sand again. Many think that the Bodies so dried, are the true Mummie; it is a mistake, and that which Merchants bring into Christendom, to be used in Medicine, is the Mummie we first described. Near the Room I

went in to, there were several others full of Bodies, but seeing the entries into them were full of Sand,* 1.77 I called to them above to pull me up again with the same Rope, with which I was let down, being much dissatisfied with my Moors, who had opened so sorry a Pit for me. When I was got up I looked upon my Cloth, whereon were Characters of Gold, but was much vexed to see that all the Letters disappeared, and that by my own fault, because I had folded it together when it was very humid, and so all the Gold and Paint stuck to the opposite sides; whereas I should have brought it up open and dried it in the Sun. But I have others that are finer. which are only a little spoilt in the bringing: I brought with me also some Hands of Mummies, which are as entire at present, as ever they were. I had also the good fortune to buy upon the place some Idols, of the Moors, who come and sell them to the Franks in the City.* 1.78 These Idols are of several sorts, and in many Postures, there are of them of Copper, of several sorts of Stone, and several sorts of Earth also; at least, I have some of all these kinds, all which I am very sure have been taken out of Mummies, and cannot be said to be counterfeit, for besides that, they have not the Art to do it, they sell them at so easie a rate, that the very Materials are worth more.* 1.79 This is all I could observe of the Pyra∣mides and Mummies: And hence it appears, that the Ancient Aegyptians spent more in their Tombs, than during their whole Lives; and one reason they gave for that was, That their Houses were only for living a short time in, and their Tombs the Palaces that were to be inhabited by their Souls for many Ages. Not far from these Mummies towards the Nile, are some remains of a large Town,* 1.80 which was Memphis, the Inhabitants whereof were Buried there; the Ancients never burying their Dead within Towns, for fear of in∣fecting the Air, none but Christians (who mind not that) bury their Dead any where. Now to prove that these great Ruines are the remains of Mem∣phis, Pliny affirms it, when he says that the Pyramides are betwixt the Delta of Aegypt, and the City of Memphis on the side of Africa. At length we returned by old Caire, and saw all that is Curious, or worth being seen in it.

CHAP. VII. Of Old Caire.

* 1.81OLD Caire is a Ruinous Town. though there be several good Houses in it, still pretty well Inhabited, and about a quarter of a League distant from New Caire.* 1.82 We went first to the Church of Abousargis, that is to say, Father Sergius, because it is built to the Honour of St. Sergius. Under this Church there is a low Chappel, where it is believed, our Lady lived a pretty while, with her dearest Son Jesus, and was formerly but a meer Grotto: In the Wall of this Grotto, there is a hollow place, like a Window, where the Monks sometimes celebrate Mass; this Church is held by the Cophtes. From thence we went to the Monastery of St. George,* 1.83 not far distant, and first entred into the Church, where the Greeks say, there is an Arm of the said Saint still preserved, but it is not to be seen, being kept in a very dark place, with two great Iron Grates before it, one over another, where there is a Lamp al∣ways burning. There is a thick Pillar also in this Church, to which an Iron Chain is fastned, which they say, was St. George's; and they tie Mad-men to it to be Cured. This Monastery is Inhabited by Greek Nuns, it is very Ancient, well Built, and exceeding high, having a place on the top of it, that affords a very distant Prospect: But we must take notice withal, that this Monastery is so full of Fleas, that so soon as you have set foot within, you are covered all over with them; and seeing they are very lean, they quickly crawl up, and fall on. Near to this Monastery is the Church-yard, where the Franks are In∣terred,

paying the Nuns a Chequin for breaking of Ground.* 1.84 After that you see the Granaries of Joseph, which (as they say) he Built, and filled with Corn, for a supply against the Famine which was shortly after to happen. They are very spacious Halls, and at present Corn is kept in them. Over against these Granaries, are the Ruines of an ancient Palace, which (upon mistake) they say was heretofore the Residence of the Kings of Aegypt,* 1.85 but more probably is the Fustade; it seems to have been very stately. Then you pass under an Aqueduct, that carries Water from the Nile to the Castle; this Aqueduct is supported by Three hundred and fifty high Arches, but narrow,* 1.86 and they appear to be the narrower, that the Aqueduct is very high, because of the Situation of the Castle. I went once up to that Aqueduct, and there∣fore I'll give an account of what I saw: You must ascend thirty or forty broad Steps, which are very easie to mount, before you come to the top, where you see eight Sakis turned all by Oxen, that discharge their Water into a great Ba∣son, from whence it runs through a little Conduit-pipe into the Aqueduct, at six Paces distance, and therein is conveyed to the Castle.

CHAP. VIII. Of the Matharee.

THE Matharee is two short Leagues from New Caire;* 1.87 it is a lovely and pleasant place, and deserves to be seen, were it for nothing else, but that it hath been Honoured with the presence of our Saviour; for they say that our Lady lived some time there with her Son Jesus. You see in it a little Hall almost square, which heretofore was a bare Grott, but at present is en∣closed by a Garden, that is carefully lookt after: As you enter into that Hall, there is on the Left hand a Bason even with the Floor, somewhat longer than broad; a Water runs into it (where it is said) the Blessed Virgin washed her Linnen, and in the mean time set our Saviour upon a little Window hollowed in the Wall, where the Monks sometimes say Mass. The Water that comes into the Bason of that Hall, and all over the Garden, is drawn by two Oxen, that turn a Saki in the Court, by means whereof they raise the Water. Many have said that this Water comes from the Nile, being not far distant (espe∣cially when it overflows) and a few others affirm it to be a Spring, of which opinion I am. For if it were the Water of the Nile, they that live there must needs know it, but they say it is a Spring. Besides, when the Water of the Nile is thickest, this is very clear, as it is at all times: And in short, the Etymologie of the word Matharee, seems to insinuate that it is a Spring;* 1.88 for the word Matharee comes from Matariih, which signifies Fresh-water. And why would they give it that name more than to all other Gardens where there are Sakis, if the meaning were not that there was a good spring of Fresh∣water there? Saki signifies a Watering-place,* 1.89 and is the same that in Province they call a Pouserague. Having seen that Hall, you go into a Garden walled in also, where there are many Trees, but among others, a very old Sycamore, or Fig-Tree of Pharaoh, which yearly bears Fruit. They say, that our Lady passing by it with her Son Jesus, and being pursued by Men, the Fig-Tree opened, and the Blessed Virgin going into it, it shut again till the Men were past, and then it opened again, and continued always so until the Year 1656. that the piece which was separated from the Trunk was broken off. This is a pretty pleasant Garden to rest in, and commonly they Dine there in a Walk shaded with Orange and Limon-Trees, that are in so great number, and cast such a shade, that the Sun passes not at all through them, and you must stoop very low when you go in some of the Walks, which have in the middle Chan∣nels made to convey the water all over the Garden, and they can bring the

water into any Walk you are in, where you may cool your Wine; but if you have a mind to eat any thing there, you must bring it with you; for you'l find nothing in the place but plenty of fair Oranges,* 1.90 and small Limons. There is a very lovely great Obelisk pretty near to this Garden, like to that which stands at Alexandria, and those others that are in Rome and other places. Many think that there has been some Town heretofore in this place, seeing there are Ruines still to be seen about it, and that it is not likely such a piece would have been erected in the open Fields. This Obelisk stands in a very low ground, where there is always water, and especially during the Inundation of Nile, that the whole place looks like a Pond. In this place it was that Selim encamped his Army when he took Caire;* 1.91 and there are very high works of Earth still to be seen, where his Trenches were. Betwixt the City and the Matharee, there is a Building, which (they say) is the Arsenal of the Red-Sea.

CHAP. IX. Of the Castle.

* 1.92THE Castle of Caire is one of the finest things in Aegypt; it stands upon a Hill, not in the middle of the City (as many have written,) but without the Town, almost at one of the points of the Crescent which the City makes, and in a manner over against Old Caire. It is founded on a Rock, and encompassed with very high and thick Walls: The ascent to this Castle is by a pair of stairs cut out in the Rock, so easie to mount, that Horses and Camels go up it with their Loads. There is a very large Place or Square before the Castle, called the Romesle; and near that place, the Mosque called Sultan Hasan, because it was built by Sultan Hasan in the time of the Mamalukes. This Mosque is all of Free∣stone,* 1.93 extraordinarily well built, and prodigiously high. Thomambey, the last King of the Mamalukes, fled to this Mosque, leaving the Castle to Sultan Selim, who fired several Guns at the Mosque, where the holes of the Bullets are still to be seen, especially in the Dome that is pierced all through by them. In this Castle are many stately Ruines, and several fair Vaults hid under ground. We find indeed, that the ancientest things fall into greatest ruine, and are not exempted from the power of time. It is certain that the greatest and best part of this Castle is ruined, and yet several fair Buildings remain still: But the finest and most curious thing that is to be seen in the Castle, is Joseph's Well, which is certainly a Wonder; one must have leave from the Basha Chiaoux to see it, and the French Consuls Interpreter having asked it for us, he gave him a man to conduct us thither; but however it cost us five or six Piastres, This Pit or Well is divided into two stories, or (to say better) into two Pits; the first is almost square, and is eleven foot long, and ten foot broad; there is a pair of stairs to go down to it, about seven or eight foot broad, cut in the Rock all round, and separating the Pit from the Rock; so that when you go down, you have one of the sides of the Well on the right hand, which serves for a rail to keep one from falling, or indeed, seeing into the Well, unless it be by windows that are at convenient distances, On the left hand, you have the wall, which is the Rock it self. This Stair-case hath been made very easie to go down and up, for the convenience of the Oxen that go down to labour, so that the descent is hardly sensible. You go down then 220 steps, finding on each side of the Pit two windows, each about three foot square; there are three windows in some places,* 1.94 but the Pit being very deep, they are not sufficient to give light enough, and therefore some Torches must be carried down. At the bottom of these two hundred and twenty steps, in the Rock on the left hand, there is a great hole like a door, but stopt up, and (they say) that that hole goes as far

as the Pyramides.* 1.95 There is another hole like the former on the right hand of the Pit, and stopt up in the same manner, and that (they say) goes as far as Suez upon the Red-Sea; but I believe neither of the two. Turning then to the right hand towards that hole, you come to a place which is the bottome of the first Pit or story; this place answers perpendicularly to the mouth of the Pit, being equal to it in length and breadth, so much of it as is uncovered; for after∣wards it strikes off to the right hand under the Rock, to the place of the second story or second Pit, which is narrow, but deeper than the former: At the top of this last Pit, in the afore-mentioned place that goes under the Rock, the Oxen are, which by means of wheels, draw a great quantity of water out of this narrow Pit or Well, which falling into a Channel, runs into a reservatory at one end of this place, and at the bottom of the first Pit; from whence at the same time it is conveyed up on high by little buckets fastened to a rope, which Oxen on the top continually keep going, by the means of other wheels that they turn, and then it is distributed through the Castle in several pipes. One may go to the bottome of this narrow Well, there being several steps in it, by which some have descended; but there is too much mud and slime in it. Now (what is most wonderful) all this Pit or Well is made out of the hard Rock, to a prodigious breadth and depth, and the water of it is from a Spring, there being no Spring (to the knowledge of man) in all Aegypt, but this,* 1.96 and that of the Matharee, which we mentioned before. Many, and almost all the Franks think, that the water of Joseph's Well, is the same that is brought from the Nile in that fair Aqueduct which comes by Old Caire to the Castle: But we informed ourselves as to that of many in the Castle, who all assured us, that the water that is brought by that Aqueduct, served only for the Bashas Horses, (as indeed it comes streight to the Stables in the Bashas Appartment,) and that it enters not at all into Joseph's Well, which is in the Quarter of the Janizaries; besides, the water of Joseph's Well is sweetish, (as the water of most Wells is) and differs in taste from that of the Nile.* 1.97 Joseph's Hall is also to be seen in the Castle, but much ruined; it hath thirty lovely great Pillars of Thebaick∣stone, and a good deal of Gold and Azure still to be seen on the seeling. Pretty near to that, is the Hall also of Joseph's Steward, which is more curious than the other, but there remains still ten or twelve Pillars, such as those of Joseph's Hall. It is to be observed, that all the fine things of the Antients that still remain in Aegypt, are attributed to Joseph; and all that is ugly or infamous, to Pharaoh. There is to be seen also in the Castle, a large old Hall, well built, the seeling whereof is in many places gilt and painted in Mosaick: In this Hall the Vest which is yearly sent to Mecha, is embroidered. Then you have many high Terrasses, from whence you may see all the City of New Caire, the Old, Boulac, and a great way farther into the Desarts.* 1.98 The Dungeon or Arcane is still remaining in the Castle, which (they say) is the Prison whereinto Joseph was cast, and where he interpreted the Dreams of the King's Butler and Baker; but nothing makes it considerable, but the Name of Joseph, for it is a Prison composed of some dark, nasty and stinking passages like Dungeons, by what I could discover on the out-side; and some who have been Prisoners there, told me, that it is far worse within; and Prisoners are so cruelly used there, that it deserves not to be look'd upon; nay, woe be to them who are shut up there; for so soon as a Man is clapt up in it, his feet are put into the Stocks, and his body chained to the wall by a heavy Chain, where he must sit on his breech; then the Gaolers demand of him ten or twenty Piastres, more or less,* 1.99 according as they judge him able, and if he give it not, they throw pales of water under his breech; and when he has feed the first, that he may not be abused, next day others come into office, who use him in the same manner, if he see them not also as he did the former; and in a word, this Prison is a Hell upon Earth: People are put in there for small matters, as for Debt, or Batteries, especially the Christians and Jews. The Aga of the Janizaries lives in the Castle, and Commands there.

Being come out of the Castle, you must go see the Basha's Appartment, sepa∣rated from the Castle only by a Wall, and (I think) all together made but one Castle before; but the Turks make a distinction betwixt them, calling the Basha's Appartment, the Serraglio of the Basha; and the rest, the Castle; you

must see then the Appartment or Serraglio of the Basha, which is very neat, as that of the Kiayas is also: Both these places have a very pleasant Prospect, for from them one has a full view of Caire, Old Caire, Boulac, the Desarts, and all places about. The Hall of the great Divan is in the Basha's Appartment; it is long, but the seeling a little too low: against the wall of that Hall, hang ten wooden Bucklers, a fingers breadth thick a piece, all joyned together, and pierced through by a Javelin about five foot long, with an iron Head about a good foot in length; this Iron pierces through all these Bucklers, and reaches a hands breadth farther.* 1.100 Sultan Amurat (as they say) threw that Javelin, where∣with he pierced the Bucklers through, and sent them to Caire sticking thereon, as they are to be seen at present, to shew his strength to the Aegyptians; this is kept as a Miracle, and covered with a Net. Sultan Amurat was indeed, the strongest Man of his time, and marks of that are to be seen in several places.

In this Appartment of the Basha, there is a very large court or place, called Cara Meidan, at the end of which are his Stables, where the Aqueduct which comes near Boulac,* 1.101 and conveyeth the water of the Nile, discharges itself for the use of his Horses. This Castle might pass for a great Town, and is the finest that ever I saw, not only for Strength, but also for the stately Buildings that are in it,* 1.102 the lovely Prospects, and good Air: In a word, it is a work worthy of the ancient Pharaoh's and Ptolomy's who built it, and corresponds very well with the magnificence of the Pyramides. This Castle looks great also on the out-side, but chiefly on the side of the four Gates, which they call Babel Carafi, and which enter all four into the Romeile: On that side, the Castle Walls are very high and strong, being built upon the Rock, which is two mens height above ground. These walls are very entire, and look as if they were new: Near to that, all along from the first of the four Gates to the last, and not far from the Castle, there are fair Burying-places.

* 1.103The Fountain of Lovers is within the City; It is a great oval Bason, or rather Trough, made of one entire piece of black Marble, six foot long, and about three foot high, and all round it there are Figures of Men and Hieroglyphicks rarely well cut: The People of the Countrey tell a great many tales of this Fountain of Lovers, and say, that in ancient times Sacrifices were offered at it. Not far from thence,* 1.104 there is a great Palace, called Calaat el kabh, that is to say, the Castle of Turpitude, it seems to have been formerly a neat Building, but at present it falls to decay; several lovely Pillars are to be seen in it. They say, that Sultan Selim lodged in that Palace, after that he had made himself Master of Caire; and many very ancient Fables they tell of it. A few steps from thence is the Garden of Lovers,* 1.105 whereof the Moors relate the same thing that Diodorus Siculus reports of Sesostris, the Second King of Aegypt, who having lost his Sight, and been told by the Oracle, that he should not reco∣ver it, if he did not wash his face with the Urine of a Woman that had never known Man, beside her own Husband; he washed with his Wife's water, then tried several others, without recovering his Sight; and at length having washed with the water of a Gardener's Wife, who was Master of this Garden, his sight came to him again; whereupon he married that Woman, and caused all the rest who had been adulterous, to be burnt.

CHAP. X. Of the Palaces, Streets, and Bazars of Caire.

HAving seen all the places that I have mentioned before, no more remains but to walk through the City, and see the lovely Mosques and fair Pala∣ces; and if you could have any occasion to go into the Houses of the Beys, there you would see brave Appartments, large Halls, paved all with Marble, with Water-works, and Seelings, adorned with Gold and Azure. You would see like∣wise neat Gardens. As to the Frontispieces of Houses, there is not one that looks well, and (as I have said already) the finest Houses are but dirt without.* 1.106 All their Locks and Keys are of wood, and they have none of iron, no not for the City Gates, which may be all easily opened without a Key. The Keys are bits of timber, with little pieces of wire, that lift up other little pieces of wire which are in the Lock, and enter into certain little holes, out of which the ends of wire that are on the Key having thrust them, the Gate is open. But without the Key, a little soft paste upon the end of one's finger, will do the job as well.

There are some fair Streets in Caire; the Street of Bazar, or the Market,* 1.107 is very long and broad, and the Bazar is held there on Mondays and Thursdays. There is always such a prodigious croud of people in this street, but especially on Market-days, that one can hardly go along. All sorts of things are sold in this street, and at the end of it there is another short street, but something broad, wherein the shops on each side are full of rich Goods; this is called Han Kalil, that is to say, the little Han. Then at the end of that short street,* 1.108 there is a great Han, in which there is a large Piazza or Square, and very high Buildings. White Slaves are sold there, aswel Women and Girls,* 1.109 as Men and Boys. A little farther there is another Han, where are great numbers of Black Slaves, of both Sexes. There is a little street near Han Kalil, where on Market-days, that is to say, Mondays and Thursdays, there are Slaves stand∣ing in ranks against a wall, to be sold to them that have a mind to buy, and every body may look upon them, touch and feel them like Horses, to see if they have any faults. The Hospital and Mosque of Mad People,* 1.110 is very near Han Kalil; they are chained with heavy iron chains, and are led to the Mosque at Prayer-time. This is one of the largest Mosques in the City, as far as I could see, going by the doors of it. The Hospital is called Morestan, and it serves also for the sick Poor, who are well entertained and look'd after in it.

It seems worth one's curiosity too, to see them make Carpets; for a great many fine ones are made at Caire, and are called Turkie-work Carpets:* 1.111 Many People are employed in that work, among whom are several little Boys, who do their business so skilfully and nimbly, that one could hardly believe it; their Loom stands before them, and in their left hand they have several ends of round bottoms of Woorstead of many colours, which they place in their several places; in the right hand they hold a Knife, wherewith they cut the Woorsted, at every point they touch with the Knife. The Master comes to them now and then with a Pattern, and looking upon it, tells them what they are to do, as if he were reading in a Book; nay, faster too than he could read, saying, So many points of such a colour, and so many of such another, and the like; and they are as quick at their work, as he is in directing them.

CHAP. XI. Of the Ovens that hatch Chickens.

ALL that I have related hitherto, are such things as may be daily seen, and whoever Travels into that Countrey, may see them at his leisure, when he thinks fit. But there are also several other curious things that are casual and temporary; and others again, which yearly happen but at such a time and season. I shall relate what I have seen of both, according to the order of time they happen in, and I saw them. The first of these extraordi∣nary things I saw at Caire, was the artificial way of hatching Chickens; one would think it a Fable, at first, to say that Chickens are hatch'd, without Hens sitting upon the Eggs; and a greater, to say, that they are sold by the Bushel: Nevertheless both are true, and for that effect, they put their Eggs in Ovens, which they heat with so temperate a warmth,* 1.112 which imitates so well the natural heat, that Chickens are formed and hatched in them. These Ovens are in a low place, and in a manner under ground; they are made of Earth, round within, the Hearth or Floor of them being covered all over with Tow or Flocks to put the Eggs upon. There are in all twelve of these Ovens, six on each side in two ranks or stories, there being two stories on each side, and three Ovens in each storie. These two sides are separated by a Street or Way, through which they who work in them (who are all Cophtes) and those that come to see them, pass. They begin to heat their Ovens about the middle of February,* 1.113 and continue to do so for almost four months space. They heat them with a very temperate heat, only of the hot ashes of Oxen and Camels-dung, or the like, which they put at the mouth of each Oven, and daily change it, put∣ting fresh hot dung into the same place. This they do for the space of ten days, and then lay the Eggs upon the Tow and Flocks that are within the Ovens, ranking them all round; and they'll put about eight thousand in an Oven. After twelve days time that the Eggs have been there, the Chickens are hatch'd, and come out; so that the time of heating the Ovens, and the time the Eggs have been in them, make in all two and twenty days: But it is pleasant to see these Chickens, in one side some thrusting out their heads, others stri∣ving and struggling to get out their bodies, and others again (which on the other side are quite out of the shell) tripping up and down upon the rest of the Eggs; for if you stay there but the least, you'll see all these progresses. When they are all hatched, they gather them up, measure them in a Bushel that wants a bottom, and sell them by that measure to all that please to buy, and then divide the profit betwixt the Owners and the Masters of the Ovens. During the four months that they plie this business, they use above three hundred thou∣sand Eggs, but all do not succeed. Such as have a very nice palate, think that these Pullets are not so good as those which are hatched by a Hen, but the dif∣ference is but little, or rather it is only in fancy; and it is still very much to imitate Nature so near. Many think that this cannot be done but in Aegypt, because of the warmth of the Climate; but the Great Duke of Florence having sent for one of these Men, he hatched them aswel there as in Aegypt: The same also (as I was told) had been done in Poland; and I certainly believe it may be done any where, provided it be in some place under ground, where no Air comes in; but the great difficulty is to proportion the heat to such a temperate degree, that there be neither too much nor too little, either of which would prove unsuccesful.

CHAP. XII. Of the Burying-place where the Dead rise.

IT is strange to see the Superstitions that reign among People, and there is no Country that can pretend to be free from them; only some have more, and some less; but the strangest thing of all is that they will not be undeceived, and if any man offer to lay open the Cheat, he is presently taken for an Atheist and wicked Person. No People that I know are certainly more Superstitious than the Aegyptians, as I shall hereafter make it out; but at present it shall be enough to give one instance of it. Upon the River∣side near to old Caire, there is a great Burying-place, where many dead Bodies are Interred: All the Inhabitants of Caire, not only Cophtes and Greeks, but also Turks and Moors are fully perswaded that on Holy Wednesday, Thursday,* 1.114 and Friday, (according to their account, who follow the old Calendar) the dead rise there; not that the dead People walk up and down the Church-yard; but that during these three days, their Bones come out of the Ground, and then when they are over, return to their Graves again. I went to that Burying-place on the Holy Friday of the Greeks and other Christians, who follow the old Calendar, that I might see what Ground they had for this stupid Belief; and I was astonished to find as many People there as if it had been at a Fair, for all both small and great in Caire flock thither, and the Turks go in procession with all their Ban∣ners, because they have a Scheikh Interred there, whose Bones (as they say) come out every year, and take the Air with the rest; and there they say their Prayers with great Devotion. When I came to the place I saw here and there some Sculls and Bones; and every one told me that they were just come out of the Earth; which they so firmly beleive, that it is impos∣sible to make them think otherwise; for I spoke to some (who one would think ought to have more sense than the rest) and they assured me it was a truth; and that when you are in a place where the Ground is very even, while you are looking to one side, Bones will come up on the other side, within two steps of you. I who would willingly have seen them come up before my Face, not doubting but the Bones which were to be seen, had been secretly scattered by some Santo's, fell a jeering the Men;* 1.115 but finding that they were in the same errour with the rest, I durst not say all I thought, for fear of meeting with some abuse. In the mean time I think that that folly may be put in the same rank with the Well that is in the Nunnery of the Cophtes, in the quarter of the Greeks, where they say the Blessed Virgin appears on a certain day of the year; as also with the Church called Geniane, that is to say the two Churches, which is three days journey from Caire, where the Cophtes imagine that they see Saints appear in the Dome, and therefore they have it in great Veneration.

CHAP. XIII. Of the Cavalcade of the Hazna.

* 1.116MOnday the eleventh of June the Hazna or Grand Signior's Revenue came down from the Castle. This Hazna amounts to six hundred thousand Venetian Chequins which make 1500000 Piastres, which the Basha of Aegypt sends yearly to the Grand Signior,* 1.117 under the guard of a Sangiack Bey well accompanied. This Hazna came down from the Castle, and about eight a Clock in the morning went through Caire with a lovely Cavalcade in great pomp. First went many of all the Sangiacks Servants well mounted, then came the Saraf Basha, and the Saraf of the Basha, each with a Caftan, which they had received from the Basha, and next eight Clerks, and other Officers of the Custome-house, who had every one a Caftan given them by the Basha; these were followed by all the Chiaoux's with their great Turbans, after whom came the rest of the Sangiacks Servants, and behind them thirty Mules loaded with the Treasure, environed with several Janizaries on Foot: a little after came above two thousand Janizaries on Foot, march∣ing two and two with their Musquets on their shoulders, and their Sha∣bles by their sides; next to them came the Sangiack Bey, who was to accom∣pany the Treasure to Constantinople; he wore a Chiaoux Cap, and had on a Caftan given him by the Basha; he was followed by many men on Horse∣back carrying Colours, and among others one that was made of several Flakes of Wooll, fastened to the end of a Staff; then came a great many men, (most part Moors) playing upon Flutes, Drums, and Timbrels, with many Trumpets: in the Reer of all came the whole Family of the Sangiack Bey, who made the Journey, and it consisted of several very handsome Young∣men. In this Cavalcade were above two hundred Horse; but the chief beauty of it, was the Order wherein they marched, for they went all two and two leisurely, and without the least noise, so that it was easie to reckon them; they were all mounted on very good Horses, all Armed, some with Bows and Arrows, others with Harquebusses, Pikes and such-like Arms. They went out by the Bab Nasra, that is to say, the Gate of Victory, and encamped a League off, in Tents; where they stayed about a Fortnight, and then departed for Constantinople.

CHAP. XIV. Of the Turks Carnaval.

TƲesday Evening the twelfth of June, 1657. happened the Carnaval of the Turks, or the Ceremony of the beginning of the Ramadan, which (though it be but a trifle) yet deserves once to be seen. This Cavalcade is called Laylet el Kouvat,* 1.118 that is to say, the night of power, because the Maho∣metans believe that that night the Alcoran descended from Heaven. So soon as it is night, Lamps are lighted in the streets, and especially in the Bazar street, through which the Procession passes; it is a very long broad and streight Street, where you see a great many Ropes stretched from one side to the other, to which Iron-Hoops are fastened, with many Lamps hanging to them; there are also Baskets hanging full of Lamps: these Hoops hang at about ten paces distance from one another, and in every one of them there are above thirty Lamps; which being all in a streight line, make a very

pleasant shew and great light: there are besides many other great figures likewise full of Lamps; and all the Minarets or Towers of the Mosques are also decked with them. Vast numbers of people are abroad in the streets, the shops and all places full: but the Franks who would be Spectators of this Festival, ought to take a room in the street of the Bazar, only for the time of the Cavalcade that so they may conveniently see, and be out of danger of the Rabble. About the shutting in of the Night, the Santos, Chiaoux, and all that are concerned in the Cavalcade, go to the House of the Cadilesquer, who tells them if they are to begin the Ramadan that night. being then certain that the Moon hath been seen, and that by consequence the Ramadan begins that night: They begin their solemnity in this manner; about an hour or two after night a great many Santos on Foot armed with Clubs and Torches in their hands, and accompanied with several People carrying Links march up and down dancing, singing, roaring and making a noise, with a Scheikh on a Mule, in the middle of them, whom they call Scheiks el arsat, which is to say, Scheikh, or prime of the Cornuted, and with them is a Scheikh of great reputation; for when he passes the People shout and make great acclamations; after him come several men mounted on Camels, playing upon Drums, Timbrels, and other sorts of Instruments, who make a sad noise; then follow men in Masquerade who walk on foot, some with Link-men about them, and others carrying at the end of long Poles, Hoops full of Fire-Launces, which after they have burn'd and given light a pretty while, bounce and leap among the People on all hands, and during that time, they let off a great many Squibs and Serpents. After that come the Officers of the Bey on Horse-back, all with their Harquebusses, then the Chiaoux also on Horse-back, next several Janizaries with their Musquets and Cimeters, and after them the Sous Basha, Muhtesib, and many publick Magistrates well attended by Janizaries and Link-men: the whole is concluded by a great many Santo's that sing some joyful Songs for the coming of the Ramadan. All this Solem∣nity consists only of a company of Rogues got together, but is pleasant enough however. It is some pleasure still after all is over to see them break most of the Lamps with Stones and Sticks. Then are the Shops kept open all night, and so during all the Nights of the Ramadan, but especially the Coffee-houses, which are full of Lamps, in some of which I have seen two thousand; and all sorts of People Christians and others may go abroad all night long as securely as by day. I have spoken at large of the Ramadan in the description of Constantinople.

CHAP. XV. Of the going out of a Basha Mansoul.

THE thirtieth of June, 1657. the Basha was made Maasoul or Mansoul, that is to say turned out of his Government, which is done two man∣ner of ways, the one when the Beys of the Countrey make him Maasoul, and demand another from the Grand Signior, making one of themselves, in the mean time Caimacan or Lieutenant, to supply his place, as he who was im∣mediately before this last, was served, who was made Maasoul in my time. the other way is, when an Olac or Courier from Constantinople in name of the Grand Signior comes, and staying without the City, demands the Divan to be held, which is done the next day, and all the Beys being there at that time, the Olac comes into the Divan and presents his Letters to the Basha, and then turns up a corner of the Carpet on which the Basha is, which is an intimation that he is Mansoul. This Basha was made Mansoul in the last manner. Im∣mediately the Beys of the Country, who commonly have received their Let∣ters

before the sitting of the Divan, secure the Basha,* 1.119 and one of them who is declared Caimacan by the Grand Signiors Letters, takes upon him all the care of the Government, until the coming of the new Basha. In the mean while the Beys make the Basha Mansoul, give an account of all the Money he has received, and take from him what he has remaining. This lasts several days, during which, his Servants pack up, and take all that they can catch in the Basha's appartment, which belongs not to their Master, as Carpets and the like. After that the Basha hath made up his Accounts with the Beys, he sets out from Caire that he may go to Constantinople, and render an account of his Administration, and then his Enemies declare themselves, and seek all occasions to do him Prejudice, objecting against him all the In∣justice that he hath committed during his Government. Sometimes he is put to Death upon the Road by orders from the Grand Signior, and sometimes also he is made Grand Visier upon his arrival at Constamtinople; so that many of these Bashas return not to Constantinople, but Rebel, and with such men as they can get together, roam up and down Anatolia, laying Contributions on Towns and Villages; and this they do chiefly when they are afraid to appear before the Grand Signior.

* 1.120This Basha having cleared his Accounts, went out of Caire the six and twentieth of July in the morning, and the Cavalcade was in this order. First went all the Servants of the Beys two and two on Horse-back; and as the Family of one Bey was past, there was a short interval, then came another, and so in order till all were gone; in the Rear of the Family of every Bey, which consisted of about one hundred Horse-men more or less according to the Estate of the Bey, came a led Horse well accoutred, having a Buckler fastened upon the Saddle; and some of the Beys have two or three such led Horses. After the retinue of the Beys, came a part of the Basha's Servants, all well Armed like men who are upon a March; of them about thirty of the first carried the Banners of the Basha, and were followed by many of the Officers of the Castle on Horse-back; after whom came the Chiaoux, next the Sous-Basha, then all the Beys two and two, every one with a Page walking before them on Foot; next in order marched the Azapes two and two, well Armed, most part covered with the Skins of Tygres, then the Janizaries, who are called the Janizaries of Mehkieme, or of the Justice, followed by the Janizaries and all the Officers of the Divan: after them, came the Peiks or Lackeys of the Basha on Foot, with their Caps of Silver gilt, then his Pages on Foot also, and at length the Basha himself, mounted on a stately Horse, with a rich Houze embroadered with Gold; he wore on his Head a Chiaoux Cap, but without a Herons top. After him came all the rest of his Officers and Servants, with several Trumpets, Drums, Timbrels, and such kind of Instruments. They went all out of the City to a place where the Basha and his People Encamped in Tents, and stayed there some days, till he set out for Constantinople, takeing two or three hundred men in company with him.* 1.121 While he lay Encamped near the City, Monsieur De Bermond the French Consul went to visit him in his Tent, because he was his Friend, and we accompanied him. It was a very lovely Tent, and reckoned to be worth ten thousand Crowns, it was very spacious and encompassed round with walls of waxed Cloath: in the middle was his Pavillion of green waxed Cloth, lined within with flowered Tapistery all of one set; within the Precincts behind, and on the sides of his Pavillion, there were Chambers and Offices for his Women: round the pale of his Tent within a Pistol shot were above two hundred Tents, pitched in such a manner, that the doors of all of them look∣ed towards the Basha's Tent, and it is ever so, that they may have their eye always upon their Masters Lodging, and be in a readiness to assist him, if he be attacked. These Tents together yielded a pleasant prospect in the Field, and especially the Basha's, which on the top of the Pavillion had se∣veral great gilt Balls, which made a glorious shew when the Sun shin'd upon them.

CHAP. XVI. Of the coming down of Mahomet's Vest from the Castle, and of the setting out of the Emir-Adge.

ALL the Presents that are yearly sent by the Grand Signior to Mecha,* 1.122 are by the Franks called Mahomets Vest, they are wrought in the Castle of Caire; for Caire sends Ornaments to Mecha, and Money to Medina. and Damascus sends Ornaments to Medina. When the time is come that the Caravan is to set out for Mecha, the Presents are brought in great pomp from the Castle through the City, to the House of the Emir-Adge.* 1.123 The Captain of the Cara∣van of the Pilgrims of Mecha, is called Emir-Adge. Now seeing I would not let any thing slip that was to be seen, I went to see that Cavalcade which was performed on Saturday, the One and twentieth of July, 1657.* 1.124 in this Order. All the Families of the Beys past, then the Chiaoux, next the Azapes, then the Janizaries, and after them the Beys, of whom he that was the Emir-Adge, had a Caftan, which he had received from the Basha, as many other Officers had, who were to be there. After them came the Janizaries of the Divan, who were followed by Men carrying four very long pieces of Crimson Velvet, Embroidered all over with Arabick Letters of Gold, as long, broad, and thick as ones Finger: Others carried a large and long Door-piece of Velvet, Embroidered in the same manner; and then came a Camel well Harnessed, carrying a great Pavillion, or Tabernacle, of Crimson-Satin, all Embroidered with Gold, and chiefly in some places, where there were great long letters Embroidered in Gold; it was shaped like a Bell, with a Gilt Ball over the top, and four such others about it: Then another little square Pa∣villion of far less value, carried by a Man; after that came eight pieces of Searge, and a Man with a burden of Ropes. All these things were for adorn∣ing the Kiabe, or Mosque of Mecha, and were accompanied by many Proces∣sions with Banners, and all the Santo's, with several Drums and Timbrels. But strange was the pressing and crowding of the People, to touch all the things that were sent in Present; every one strove to get near, and those who were so happy, touched them most devoutly with the ends of their Fin∣gers, nay, not so much as the Ropes that were Consecrated to that holy place, but were touched with as much respect and devotion as the rest; and they, who because of the Crowd could not come near, got up upon some Stone, and undoing their Turban, threw one end of it upon the Relicks, and held the other in their Hand to pull it back by; so that if they could touch them with any thing that they could afterwards kiss, they were satisfied.* 1.125 They have the same Reverence for these things that Catholicks have for their Relicks, and that only because they are to be presented to the Kiabe, for adorning that place which they esteem holy. All those things were carri∣ed from the Castle to the House of the Emir-Adge. Two days after, to wit, Monday the twenty third of July, the Emir-Adge went out of the Town, that he might Encamp abroad, and prepare for the Journey to Mecha; it was much the same as at the other Cavalcades, as for the order of the Families of the Beys, the Chiaoux, and the rest.* 1.126 But there was this more in this last Caval∣cade, that after the Families of the Beys, came six Field-pieces, every one of them drawn by two Horses; which the Emir-Adge always carries with him in that Expedition. There were besides a great many little Children, some mounted on Camels, some on Horses, and all in Caftans presented to them; these were the Sons of the Emir-Adge's Cooks, Grooms, and other Officers. The first of these little Boys was the Son of the Smith, who goes to shooe the Horses, Mules, and Asses of the Caravan; and as a sign of that, he was

upon a Camel covered with a very pretty Pavillion, and had on the Camels back before him an Anvil, with a great Hammer in his Hand, wherewith he now and then struck upon the Anvil. Then passed a great many Camels load∣ed with Provisions for the Emir-Adge, after them came the Beys, and then the Emir-Adge. A quarter of an Hour after, came all the Santo's, or Mad-men, in far greater number than ever I had seen in any place; some Dancing, others making a thousand wry Mouths and strange Faces, and clad in divers Fashions, much like our Masquers in time of Carnaval: Then at length came the blessed Camel, which carries the Pavillion I mentioned before; the other things were under that Pavillion, and horrible was the crowding to get near and kiss, or at least touch that same Pavillion. This Camel was in goodly Trappings of Gold and Silk,* 1.127 and was followed by another very well Accoutred too, but not Loaded; he went this Journey to carry the Pavillion, when the other was weary: Four Camels are kept for that Service, of which two are employ∣ed every Year, whilst the other two take their rest. It is wonderful to see how many People come yearly from all places, to perform that Journey; for there are five Caravans, to wit, that of Caire, which consists of Aegyptians, and of all that come from Constantinople, and the places about; that of Da∣mascus, wherein go from Syria, all who have a mind to go; that of the Magre∣bins, or Westerlings, comprehending those of Barbary, Fez, and Morocco, who meet at Caire; the Caravan of Persia, and that of the Indies, or the Mogul. But, in my opinion, they who come from Fez and Morocco, are put to the greatest trouble; for they Travel always by Land, over great Desarts, that takes them up a long time, and indeed, they employ a whole Year in the Journey, and more than one half of them die by the way. This Caravan of Caire was very numerous, for in it there was four Beys, one Janizary Agasi, one Bostangi Basha, and several other mighty Lords, who made the Journey, having all a great many Camels with them. As for the Emir-Adge, who tra∣vels that Journey yearly, and is chief of the Caravan, he has commonly Fifteen hundred Camels to carry his Baggage, and to sell, or let to those who want; for many die by the way: He hath Five hundred Camels to carry Water, only for his Family, and they load them with Fresh-water, whereever they find any. This Caravan (as it was said) consisted of about an Hundred thousand Per∣sons, and of above an Hundred thousand Beasts, as well Camels as Horses, Mules and Asses, and that seemed indeed, to be a great deal; but we were informed afterward by the Gentleman of the Horse to the Bey of Suez, that that Cara∣van consisted only of Eight thousand Camels, and that when it amounts to Fifteen thousand Camels, it is thought to be very great.

CHAP. XVII. Of the Departure of the Caravan of Mecha, from the Birque, and of its Journey to Mecha.

THE day that the Emir-Adge parted from Caire, he Encamped in Tents, close by the City,* 1.128 and a few days after he Encamped at the Birque, which is a great Pond about Twelve Miles from Caire, near to which they Encamp:* 1.129 This place is the Rendesvouz of all the Caravans. The Emir-Adge parted from thence with the whole Caravan, Wednesday the eighth of August, it being the custome for the Caravan of Caire, to set out Seven and fifty days after the beginning of the Ramadan, that so it may be there punctually at the time. It is very pretty to see them Encamped in the Night-time, because of

the infinite number of Lamps that are in the Tents and Pavillions. Next day, the Ninth of August, the Caravan of the Magrebins parted also from the Birque, and there all of Barbary who intend to make the Journey, meet, and make a distinct Caravan; which depends not on the Emir-Adge of Caire, but have a Chief of their own. That Caravan never sets out but a day after the Caravan of Caire; they travel commonly by night, and rest in the day time,* 1.130 as all other Caravans do that go to other places, that so they may avoid the heat, which is almost insupportable; and when the Moon does not shine, there are Men who carry Links before the Caravan. In all Caravans, the Camels are tied tail to tail, so that let them but go, and there is no trouble of leading them.

Here I'll give the Reader an account, how many Stages there are betwixt Caire and Mecha, how many days they stay in them, how many hours travel∣ling there is betwixt them, and at what Stages the Waters are sweet or bitter, all along the way. This little Itinerary I had from a Prince of Tunis,* 1.131 who made that Journey whilst I was at Caire. From Caire to the Birque, it is reckoned four hours Journey; there is fresh water there. From the Birque to Misana, that is to say, Cistern, ten hours; no water there.* 1.132 From Misana to Kalaat Aadgeroud, which is to say, the Castle of Sand-Pits, twelve hours and an half; there is bitter water there. From the Castle of Aadgeroud to Navatir, seven hours and an half; no water there. From Navatir to Rastagara, ten hours; no water there, and the way bad. From Rastagara to Kalaat el Nahhal, that is to say, the Castle of Palmes, fifteen hours; there they stay a day, and have fresh water. From the Castle of Nahhal to Abiar Alaina, fourteen hours; only b••tter water there. From Abiar Alaina to Sath el Akaba, that is to say, the Plain of the Hill, fifteen hours; no water there. From Sath el Akaba to Kalaat el Akaba, that is to say, the Castle of the Hill, (that's upon the side of the Red-Sea) sixteen hours; there they stay two days and an half, the way is very bad, but they have fresh water. From the Castle el Akaba to Darel Hhamar, six hours and an half; no water there, (Dar el Hhamar signifies Asses Back, and it is like the Mountain in Italy, where there is an Inn called Scarga l'asino.) From Dar el Hhamar to Scharafe Benigateie, fourteen hours; no water there. From Scharafe Benigateie to Magare Chouaib, that is to say, the Grott of Jethro, fourteeen hours; fresh water there; that is the Countrey of the Midionites. From Magare Chouaib to Eyoun el Kaseb, fourteen hours and an half; fresh water there: It was in that place where Jethro's Daughters going to water their Cattel, and the Shepherds offering to hinder them, Moses protected and defended them against those who would have hindred them to draw water. From Eyoun el Kaseb to Kalaat el Moilah, which is by the Sea-side, fifteen hours; there they rest two days and an half, and have fresh water. From Kalaat el Moilah to Castel, eleven hours; bitter water there. From Castel to Kalaat Ezlem, fifteen hours and an half; bitter water there. From Kalaat Ezlem to Istanbel antir, fourteen hours; fresh water there. From Istanbel antir to Kalaat el Voudge, that is to say, the Castle of the Face, thirteen hours and an half; fresh water there. From Kalaat el Voudge to Ekre, sixteen hours; no water there, but what is bitter. From Ekre to Hank Krue, that is to say, Gulf, twelve hours and an half; no water there. From Hank Krue, (going to Hhawre, they enter into the Territory of Mecha,) to Hhawre, it is thirteen hours; only bitter water there. From Hhawre to Nabte, fifteen hours; fresh water there: From thence come the Nabathean Arabs, Eurus ad auroram Nabathaeaque regna recessit. From Nabte to Hazire, thirteen hours and an half; no water there. From Hazire to Yanbouh, that is to say, Fountain, fourteen hours and an half; there they stay two days and an half, and have fresh water. From Yanbouh to Soucaife, thirteen hours; no water there. From Soucaife to Beder Hunein, that is to say, the Moon of Hunein, eight hours; fresh water there: Hunein was a Man that shew'd the Moon in his Well. From Beder Hunein to Sibil el Mouhsin, that is to say the way of Benefaction or Benefit, fourteen hours; fresh water there. From Sibil el Mouhsin to Rabij, seventeen hours; fresh water there: Rabij is a Sacred Place, that is to say, not to be entered into, without being well prepared and purged from all sin: Hence it is that there are two places which are called Haramein, Sacred Places, to wit, Mecha and Medina, that is to say, which are two Holy Places, where one should

take heed not to set his foot,* 1.133 unless he be well washed from all Sin. From Rabij to Kawdire, fifteen hours, no Water there. From Kawdire to Bir el fan, four∣teen hours; fresh water there. From Bir el fan to Vadi Fatima, fourteen hours; fresh water there. From Ʋadi Fatima to Mecha, six hours.

CHAP. XVIII. Of Mecha.

THE Musulmans have so great a veneration for Mecha, not only because Mahomet was Born there, but more especially for the Temple called Kiaabe, that is to say, square house, that they think all who are not Musul∣mans, are unworthy to come there; and therefore they suffer them not so much as to come within some days journey of it; and if a Christian or any other (who were not Mahometan) should be apprehended in that Holy Land, he would be burned without mercy. I never made the journey then, but seeing in the conferences that I have had with a great many who have made it, I have learned some things relating thereunto; I think I may tell what I know, especially since no man (that I know of) hath as yet given us any true relation of it.

* 1.134Mecha is an ancient Town scituated among the Mountains, and built all of Stone and Morter; in the middle of this Town is the Kiaabe, which is a square House, surrounded with a wall, that hinders people from approaching it, there being a void space betwixt the House and the Wall; the House is covered with a Dome. Within it there is a well of indifferent good Water, at least in respect of the other Waters of Mecha, which are so bitter, that one can hardly drink of them. There is besides on the right hand near the door as they enter into that House, a black stone as big as a mans Head, which (they say) came down from Heaven;* 1.135 and that heretofore it was white, but that through the Sins of men, it became black, as it is at present. He that first can kiss it at the time when they give one another the Selam, after the Prayer of Kouschlouk,* 1.136 on Friday that falls within the three days that they sojourn there, is held to be a Saint, and every one strives to kiss his Feet; so that most frequently he is stifled in the crowd upon the very spot. They never enter this Sacred place but four times in a year, and one of these times at the Ramadan to wash it with Rose-water, if any Person of Quality have a mind to go into it, paying an hundred Chequins he may. This House is covered all round on the outside with Stuffs, which the Grand Signior and other Princes of the Musulman Law offer to it, and the old ones belong to the Grand Signior, when the little Bairam or Easter of Sacrifice falls upon a Friday; who gives pieces of them to new Mosques, which serve them for a Consecration; but those years when the litte Bairam falls not on a Friday, the Sultan Scherif who commands there, takes off the Gold, and cutting the Stuff into small pieces, sells them for Relicks at the rate of several Chequins.* 1.137 This Sultan Scherif, is chief at Mecha, and of great Authority there; he is rich, and from the Pilgrims squeezes money by a thousand inventions, all pretexts of Devotion. Heretofore his predecessours made Pilgrims pay vast sums of money; but one year the Sultana of Aegypt being at Mecha, the Sultan exacted a great sum of Money from her, saying that he owned no King but himself: this Lady upon her return, would not enter the City of Caire, but sent word to her Husband, that he was not King unless he revenged her. Immediately thereupon the Sultan of Aegypt set out with a mighty Army, fell upon the Sultan of Mecha,* 1.138 and defeated him, obliging him and all the Scherifs of Mecha his Relations, never to ride on Horse-back but bare-footed, which to this day they observe. when the Pilgrims come to Mecha, there is a great Fair kept there, whereall sorts of Commodities are brought from the Indies, and are sold in Caves made in the Mountain.

CHAP. XIX. Of the Ceremonies to be performed by the Pilgrims of Mecha upon their Journey.

OF those that make the Pilgrimage of Mecha; many go out of Devotion,* 1.139 others to trade and buy Commodities, and others to avoid the Punish∣ment they have deserved for some great Crime; for this Pilgrimage absolves from all, and howsoever guilty a man may be, if he can make his escape and perform that Journey, he is not called in question afterward, but reckoned an ho∣nest Man. Now though the intentions of all that go thither, may be very differ∣ent, yet they perform the Journey with a great deal of Devotion, either real or counterfeit; for all along the way they do nothing but sing verses of the Alcoran, and bestow Charity according as they are able.* 1.140 Two days before they arrive at Mecha, all strip themselves stark naked at a place called Raback, and have nothing upon their Bodies but a Napkin to cover their Privities, and another about their neck; they say that it is out of respect they do so, and wear Sandals also, that they may not tread upon so holy a Ground, and in this state they continue eight days, during which it is not lawful for them to be shaven, to buy or sell any thing, to kill any thing, no not a Louse or Flea; to quarrel with their Servants, nor to speak an unseemly word: and if any trespass against the least of these things, he is obliged in Conscience to give some Alms to the Poor, as to kill a Sheep after the eight days are over, and distribute it among the Poor. Such as are indisposed and sick strip not, but instead of it give Alms. When they are come to Mecha,* 1.141 they stay three days there, during which they visit the holy places, and on one of them every one must seven times go a pretty long way round the Kiaabe, saying certain Prayers, but it is a very pleasant way of Praying; for Don Philippo Prince of Tunis, (of whom I shall speak hereafter) told me that being at Mecha, he fell sick, so that he could not practice much Devotion, but that he could not forbear to laugh when he saw others say their Prayers, especially a Brother of his own, who went with him. They have an Imam that goes before them, to shew them how they are to act, and all have their eyes fixed upon him, that they may imitate him in every thing. At first they walk softly muttering their Prayers, then at certain intervals they run and skip, shrugging and turning their shoulders this way and that way in a most ridicu∣lous manner; then fall to the gentle soft pace again, and so continue by turns till they have done. After they have been three days at Mecha, they go to Minnet, where they arrive the Vigil of the little Bairam;* 1.142 and the day of little Bairam or Easter of Sacrifice, they all Sacrifice Sheep, every one accor∣ding to his ability, distributing a good part of them among the Poor; and that day they shave themselves, put on their Cloaths,* 1.143 and appear in the same condition as they were eight days before: Then they go to Mount Arafat, which (as I think) is a short days journey from thence; but every one must provide two and forty stones by the way, for there are none to be found there. They stay there three days more, and the first day they go to the foot of the Hill, (after they have said their Prayers) and throw seven stones against the Mount; the second day they throw four∣teen, and the third, twenty one; saying that they throw these stones at the Head of the Devil, who in that place tempted Abraham, when he was going to sacrifice his Son Ishmael; for they will have this to be the Mountain whe∣ther he led his Son, and that it was Ishmael, and not Isaack, whom he would have Sacrificed. They tell a great many other pleasant tales of this Mountain, where they say that Adam and Eve sought one another for the space of two hundred and twenty years, after they were driven out of the Earthly Para∣dise, the one going up the Hill on one side while the other went down on

the other, and that at the end of two hundred and twenty years they met on the top of this Mountain. When all these Ceremonies are over, the Sultan Scherif (who comes with them to the Mount) says some Prayers, then gives them the Benediction, to which all answer Amen, and so the work is concluded.

* 1.144From thence they go to Medina, where Mahomet's Tomb is; but the greatest Devotion is at the Kiaabe.* 1.145 In the mean time, there are many in Christendome who believe, that they only undertake this Pilgrimage to visite the Tomb of Mahomet, but they are mistaken; for a great many do not go thither at all. Nor can I tell neither whence the Fable may have arisen, which is believed by many, that Mahomet's Tomb is in a Room, the Walls whereof are all faced with Loadstone; and that his Shrine, which is of iron, hangs in the Air by the vertue of the Loadstone that equally attracts it on all hands: For not only it is not so, but indeed, never was; and when I made mention of it to Turks, I set them a laughing, and they jeered me for it; the Shrine is only encompassed with great Grates of Iron, and upon occasion of that, they relate another foppery. They say, that one time two Christians being resolved to carry away that Body, put themselves into the habit of Dervishes, and were so con∣stant and diligent at their Devotion, that all took them for great Saints: But upon a time a report being raised and spread over the City, that there was a design to carry away the Body of Mahomet, though no body could tell who was Authour of the Intelligence: The Governour invited all the Dervishes to dine at his house, that he might advise with them about that business; When they were met, the two Christians were missing, who were sought after, and being found, brought before the Governour; but that so soon as they appeared, they were struck with such a confusion, that they confessed their crime, saying, that they had dugg a hole under the Mosque opposite to the Body, and that their design was to break through the floor at that place, and make the Body fall down, that so they might carry it away. Wherefore to prevent the like danger for the time to come, they have encompassed it with a great Iron-grate, above, below, and on all sides.

CHAP. XX. Of the Aga sent to meet the Caravan upon their return, and of the Gains of the Emir-Adge.

* 1.146ABout six weeks after the setting out of the Caravan of Caire, when they know that it is ready to return from Mecha, an Aga goes from Caire to guard the fresh Provisions that the People of the Countrey send to their Friends and Relations in the Caravan, every one sending according to their abilities and friendship; all which are well sealed up, and delivered to those they belong unto. For this effect, the Aga has many Camels with him, and gets considerably by the Caravan, which he meets half way. This year it returned on Tuesday the Thirteenth of November, and encamped at the Birque, where the Caravan of the Magrebins arrived the day before. Several come to Caire the same day, and their Friends go as far as the Birque to welcome them; whereupon meeting, they kiss again and again five or six times, and all who know them, salute and kiss them in the same manner; and indeed, for some days after, there is nothing to be seen in the City, but people kissing one ano∣ther, or lamenting their Relations who died in the Journey, Men, Women and Children,* 1.147 who howl and make fearful gestures, when they hear the news from the first of the Caravan, whom they meet. These Pilgrims are forty five days in going, and as much in coming back to Caire, besides some days they stay there; but they make but easie Journeys, it being impossible that so great a

Body should march fast; for they must often stop to load the Camels whose loads have fallen off, to unload those that fall or die, or to bury their Dead, and a thousand such other accidents; and when one Camel stops, all the rest must wait. They Travel commonly (as I said) in the Night-time with Links, that they may avoid the heat. In this Journey they find but little water, and that exceeding bad too: As for fresh Provisions, they find none, and eat only what they carry along with them: But the worst thing they meet with in the Journey, are certain hot Winds, which stifle the breath,* 1.148 and in a short time kill a great many people. The Prince of Tunis told me, that in one day several hundreds died of that Wind, and that he himself was much afraid that he should have been one of the number. In fine, in this expedition there died six thousand, what of Fatigue, Thirst, and these hot Winds. In that Journey, People are to be seen riding on Camels, and singing Verses of the Alcoran, who suddenly fall down dead. Those who return with life, are so altered and extenuated, that they can hardly be known; and nevertheless vast numbers of People from all Parts yearly perform that Pilgrimage, and there passes not a year wherein Women and little Children do not make it. They who have performed that Journey, are called Adgi, that is to say, Pilgrims, meaning though,* 1.149 only the Pilgrimage of the Kiaabe, and they are much respected by all as long as they live, and highly credited. The Emir-Adge gains much by this Journey,* 1.150 for the Goods of all that die, belong to him, besides a vast deal of other profits that he makes on several occasions; and it is thought that every expedition, he gets above an hundred thousand Piastres; but this year, he got above three hundred thousand, for many people died. The greatest Prerogative of this Office is, that during the whole expedition, he is absolute Master of the Field, and administers Justice as he thinks fit.

Having in my hands another exact Description of Mecha, besides what now I have given; and considering that few or no Travellers have spoken of it with any certainty, I thought it would not be amiss to add it to the former, and make a particular Chapter thereof.

CHAP. XXI. Of Mecha and Medina.

MEcha is seven and thirty days Journey from Caire, and all over Desarts;* 1.151 it is a days Journey from the Red-Sea; the Port of it is called Gidde,* 1.152 which is a little Town, wherein are two Castles on the two sides of the Port, one on each side, and the Turks say that Eve lyes buried there; they shew her Sepulchre, which is in length thirty eight or forty steps of a Man's walk, and hath no other Ornament, but a Stone at each end.

Mecha is about the bigness of Marseilles,* 1.153 in the middle whereof is the Kiaabe or Beytullah, that is to say, the House of God, which (the Turks say) was first built by the Patriarch Abraham: This House is about fifteen foot in length, eleven or twelve in breadth, and about five fathom high. The Threshold of the Door is as high from the ground as a Man can reach his hand, being within filled up even with the Threshold. The Door is about a fathom and an half high, and a fathom wide, and is in the corner to the left hand, when one faces the House: This Door is of beaten Silver, and opens with two leaves; they go up to it by a Ladder supported by four Wheels, two wherof are fastened to the lower end of the Ladder, and the other two to two wooden Posts about the middle of it, by means of which Wheels the Ladder is run to the wall, when any body is to enter into the Beytullah.

This House has a flat Roof, supported by three Pillars of an Octogone Fi∣gure, which are of Aloes-Wood, as big as the Body of a Man, and about three

Fathom and a half long; they are of one entire piece each, and yet run in a streight Line, the length of the Building, which is hung with Red and White Stuff, having here and there these words upon them, La Illah Illallah, Mouham∣med Resoul allah.

* 1.154At the same corner where the Door is (but on the other side by the Wall) is the black Stone, which they call Hadgiar Asuad, and is had in Veneration by them, because (as they say) Abraham stood upon it when he built that House; and that it served him for a Scaffold, to the end he might make no hole in the Wall, it rising higher or lower as he pleased, and being for that purpose brought him by the Angel Gabriel.

There is a Court about this House, which the Turks call Haram, and it is encompassed with Walls, with three rows of Pillars, and Arches on the inside of it.* 1.155 The four Sects of Mahomitanisme, have their places of Prayer in this Court, which are the Hanifi, Chafii, Maliki, and Hambeli, each in one of the four parts of the Court, with their Faces turned always towards the Beitullah, or House of God.

This House is begirt with two Belts of Gold, one below, and the other on high.* 1.156 On one side of the Terrass that covers the Beitullah, there is a Spout of beaten Gold, about a Fathom long, that jets out, to carry off the Rain-wa∣ter that falls upon the Terrass.

* 1.157The same House is covered on the out-side with Hangings of Black Silk which is a kind of Damask; and every Year there are new ones sent from Caire at the Charges of the Grand Signior.

* 1.158Ten days Journey from Mecha, upon the Road to Damascus, is the City of Medina, three days Journey from the Red-Sea; the Port of it is called Iambo, which is a little Town of the same shape and bigness as Gidde.

Medina is about half as big as Mecha, but it hath a Suburbs as big as the Town it self. Much about the middle of that Town there is a Mosque, in a corner whereof is the Sepulchre of Mahomet,* 1.159 covered in the same manner as the Monuments of the Turkish Emperours are at Constantinople. The Sepulchre is in a little Tower, or round Building, covered with a Dome, which the Turks call Turbe.* 1.160 This Building is quite open from the middle up to the Dome, and all round it there is a little Gallery, of which the out-side Wall has several Windows with Silver Grates to them; and the in-side Wall, which is that of the little Tower, is adorned with a great number of precious Stones, at that place which answers to the head of the Tomb. There are rich things there also, of an inestimable value, sent by the Mahometan Kings, during so many Ages,* 1.161 which are fastened within this Gallery, all round the said Turret. Among others, at the place which answers to the head of the Tomb, there is a great Diamond, half as long as ones Fore-finger, and two Fingers broad, over which is the Diamond which Sultan Osman, the Son of Sultan Ahmet, sent thither, and is equal to that which the Ottoman Emperours wear on their Finger. These two Diamonds were heretofore but one, which Sultan Osman caused to be sawed in two in the middle. Lower down there is a Half-Moon of Gold, set with Diamonds of great worth.

The Pilgrims see not Mahomet's Tomb, because that Turret wherein it is enclosed, hath no Windows, being only open above, as hath been said; but such as make any stay at Medina, have liberty and leisure to enter into the Turbe and see it, when there is no clutter of strangers there, that is to say, three or four Months after the departure of the Pilgrims, who see no more but the aforesaid Gallery, and the riches that are within it, through the Silver Grates of the Windows, which we mentioned before. Those then, who enter into the Turbe, see that the Tomb hangs not in the Air, as many have falsely written; and (which is more) never did hang so, but is upon the flat Ground, raised and covered like the Tombs of Turkish Emperours and Bashas.

The Turbe is hung all round with Hangings of Red and White Silk, like Damask, which cover all the Wall, except at the place where the great Dia∣monds are; for there they are tuck'd aside, that the Diamonds may not be covered. Round all these Hangings, are the aforementioned words in Chara∣cters of Gold, La Illah Illallah, Mouhammed Resoul allah. These Hangings are

renewed every seven Years by the Ottoman Emperours, unless when a new Em∣perour succeeds, before the seven Years be accomplished; for in that case the Emperour renews them so soon as he comes to the Throne.

The Door by which they enter into the Gallery is of Silver, and so is the other that goes out of the Gallery into the Turbe.

When the Pilgrims (to the number of Two hundred thousand Souls) are come to Mecha at the usual time, which is a short while before the little Bai∣ram, and that it is the day before the Vigil of the said Bairam; they go and lie at a place called Myne, half a League from Mecha,* 1.162 and next day being the Vigil of Bairam, they go half a League farther off, to another place called Arafa, which is a great Plain, in the middle whereof there is a Rock,* 1.163 or rising Hillock, and on the top of it a Member, or place for Preaching in,* 1.164 into which steps a Scheikh, who preaches to all the People about in the Plain.

The Mahometans believe, that after Adam and Eve had sinned, God as a punishment separated them, making them wander over the World like Vaga∣bonds, and that after many Years, they met on the top of this Hillock, the one coming from the East, and the other from the West; there they stopt, and after they had continued in some suspence, before they knew one another, calling to mind what had formerly past betwixt them,* 1.165 they came to know one another, Saying Arof, Arof, which in the Arabick Tongue, signifies I know, I know; and from thence that place hath had the name of Arafa. In memory whereof the Turks believe, that God made the two Fountains gush out of the two sides of that Hillock, which are to be seen at present, the streams of the one running Eastward, and of the other Westward.

The Pilgrims then being all assembled in this Plain, about half an Hour, or a quarter of an Hour before Sun-setting, they make a long Prayer, lifting up their hands to Heaven, and imploring the Mercy of God, for the Remission of their sins (which they hope to obtain) as they believe God pardoned our first Parents, in the same place, and at the same hour. The Prayer being ended, the Pilgrims make haste to be gone,* 1.166 and without looking behind them by the way, return and lie at the aforesaid Myne, which is a Village in the middle of another Plain, where there is a Rock, in which they hold that Abraham made his Sacrifice. There is a Cave in that Rock, where the Mahometans say their Prophet often prayed, nay, and shew in the upper part of the Cave a dent, that represents the Crown of a Man's Head, which they affirm was made there, when Mahomet rising up after he had been prostrate in that place, struck his head against the Roof of the Cave which was a little low, and that the Stone became soft like Wax; the figure of the head having remained there ever since. They have built a Mosque in that place, part of which stands upon that Rock, and encloses the said Cave, which makes this place to be held in great Venera∣tion, besides the Devotion they pay to it because of Abraham's Sacrifice; in commemoration whereof on the day of the little Bairam,* 1.167 the Pilgrims sacrifice in the Plain, above Four hundred thousand Sheep, and stay there till about Noon the third day of the said Bairam, when all begin to dislodge and return to Mecha.

Next night after the Pilgrims are gone, so much Rain falls,* 1.168 that one would think it were a Deluge, which makes a Torrent that washes away the blood of the Sacrifices, and carries along with it all the Bones that remained in the Plain; whether that happens naturally, or by the craft of the Enemy of Man∣kind, who causes that Rain to confirm the Infidels in their Errours, perswading them, that God sends the Rain as a sign that their Sacrifice is acceptable unto him; the Divine Majesty permitting it should be so by the secret Council of his Eternal Providence, which we ought rather humbly to adore, than curi∣ously pry into. However it be, the thing is the more remarkable, that the Sacrifice being offered the first day of the Bairam in the Morning, this Rain falls not till the night after the third day: Besides that, the said Bairam falls every Year sooner by ten days, making the whole period of our Solar Year in the space of five and thirty Years, or there-abouts: Nevertheless the Rain falls constantly the night after the third day; as hath been said be∣fore.

The Pilgrims being returned to Mecha, divide themselves in several Cara∣vans, because of the different Countrys they come from, and are to go back to them again. The Caravan that met at Damascus, upon their return pass by Medina, and visit Mahomet's Tomb, seeing it is upon their Road; of the rest, those who are prompted by Devotion go thither, but a great part return back to their several Countrys, without turning out of their way to visit the said Sepulchre,* 1.169 their Law not obliging them to that, as it does to visit the other places above-mentioned; so that they are grosly mistaken, who have affirmed, that the Pilgrimage of the Turks is to the Sepulchre of Mahomet, who obliged them to it. For that false Prophet told his followers, when he drew near his death, that if any one returning from Mecha, had the curiosity to come and see his Sepulchre, he should say a Fatha for his Soul (which is a Prayer taken out of the Alcoran, resembling in some manner our Pater Noster) and be gone.

CHAP. XXII. Of the Opening of the Khalis.

SEeing the Fruitfulness, or Barrenness of Aegypt, depends on the overflow¦ing of the Nile, according as it rises more or less: The Aegyptians make much rejoycing when it it very high. And the opening or cutting of the Khalis, is one of their greatest Festivals; of which I must say somewhat in this place. The River of Nile begins commonly to swell in the Month of May, and on St. Peters Day, the twenty eighth of June, they begin to cry about the Streets, how much the River is encreased. In all the quarters there are such Criers who have a Head,* 1.170 to whom they pay somewhat for the Privilege; for it is a Farm, and there is a Chiaoux, who rents it of the Basha for a yearly Sum, and and the chief or head of the Criers takes it of the Chiaoux; as the Criers take it of this Head, one for one Country, and another for another. There is a little Isle opposite to old Caire, wherein the Basha has a House, in this House the Water enters into a place where there is a Pillar, divided into Pics, and other smaller Measures; the Pic is a Measure of six Hands breadth. Every day that Pillar is viewed to know how much the River is risen, which is made known to the Criers, who then go and cry it, every one in the quarter that he hath taken, going about all the Houses of the said Country, and have now and then some Maidins given them. When the River is high enough, the Khalis is cut. This Khalis is a low Street, that goes quite through the City of Caire, beginning at the Nile towards old Caire, and ending in the Fields to∣wards St. Michaels. When the River begins to swell, they cast up a Bank of Earth at that end of the Street which is near the Nile, to keep the Water from running into the Khalis,* 1.171 and when it is high enough, they cut through that bank of Earth, and give the Water passage in the Khalis through the Town. When the Basha is at Caire, it is performed with great Ceremony, and many Fire∣works. In the Year, 1657. there was no Ceremony, no more than the Year before, but the Year after, I saw that Festival with all the Rejoycings; as I shall hereafter relate in order. In the mean time I'll here tell, how I saw it in the Year,* 1.172 1657. Thursday the ninth of August, the Sousbasha attended by his Guards, and two Men mounted on Camels, and beating upon Timbrels, went to the end of the Khalis towards the Nile, where being come, he alighted from his Horse, and gave the first blow to the breaking of the Bank with a Hammer, then he took Horse again, and whilst several Moors that were there, broke down all the Bank, he went along the Khalis almost an Hour before the Water came; he stopt before the Houses of the Consuls of the Franks, who have back Doors and Windows that look into the Khalis, and received a due

of some Piastres, which that day is payed him by these Consuls, and then went on his way. Then came a crowd of the Rabble, some Singing, and others pelting one another with Cudgels. Some time after came the Water, which was signified to us by a great Noise of roguish Moors, both Men and little Boys that came along in it, keeping pace with the Water; some Swam, and others threw one another into it, playing a thousand foolish Tricks. This Khalis filled up fifteen Foot high, and all the time it was running, there came Boats full of Merry Sparks who diverted themselves, Singing and Playing on Instru∣ments, as they passed along. As the Nile ceases to rise in the beginning of October, so the Khalis leaves off to run about the end of the same Month; and therefore in the said Month of October, Proclamation is made in all the Streets,* 1.173 forbidding all Sakas, or Water-carriers, to take any more Water out of the Khalis, even before it hath wholly ceased to run; because when it runs gently, the filth of the City mingles too easie with it. But when it has done running, there is a most noisome smell, not only because of the corruption of that standing Water, but also because of all the filth and nasty stuff, that they who have Windows upon the Khalis throw into it, besides all the Carrion. In short, the Infection is so great, that not only the Money and Plate in the Houses that are near to the Khalis, is tarnished, but also the Pictures and Painting are spoil'd; as I have seen in several Houses, which nevertheless recovered their former beauty, when the Khalis was dry. When I arrived at Caire, the Kha∣lis was in this manner full of standing Water, and being told that it was the Khalis of which I had heard so much talk, I had the curiosity to look into it out of a Window; it was then Morning, and the Water was so thick, that the surface of it seemed to be all porphyrie, appearing Green, Blew, Red, and of all Colours: But when the Sun had shone a little upon it, and dissolved that scum, I was soon undeceived; for the scent which is smelt at a great distance, made me well know what it was, and I have often wondred, that the horrible infe∣ction of it, does not occasion a Plague every Year. If the Sousbasha pleased,* 1.174 that inconvenience might be remedied, for the Water might be drained out; but he lets it stand and corrupt so, that he may afterwards sell it to the Gar∣deners, who make use of it for watering their Gardens. When then they have a mind to dry the Khalis, they cast up Dams in several places of it, and throw the Water from one into another, and afterward take it out and sell it. When a good deal of the Water hath been taken out, the Ground drys very soon; and when it is very dry, which happens in the Month of May (at least in the Year, 1657. it was compleatly dry by the middle of May) they set Men to work with Pick-axes to level the Ground, in those places where heaps of Earth are cast up; so that the Street being full of ups and downs,* 1.175 they make it even and smooth from end to end, carrying away the Earth they take out upon Asses-backs into the Fields. If they did not do so, in three or four Years time the Khalis would be so choaked up, by the abundance of new Earth that is brought into it by the Water of the Nile, that all the Houses would be laid under Water.

CHAP. XXIII. Of the Arrival of the Basha, and his entry into Caire.

THursday, the twenty seventh of September, the Basha whom the Grand Signior sent to Caire, in place of the Mansoul, arrived before the City, having been three Months on the way betwixt Constantinople and Caire, but he had stopt some days at Damascus, and other good Towns; for from Constanti∣nople to Caire, it is reckoned but Five hundred Leagues by Land. A day be∣fore he approaches the City, the Caymacam, with several other Persons of Quality goes out, and Encamps under Tents some Miles from the Town, on the Basha's Road; next day he waits for the Basha at his Tent-door, and when he passes by the Tent, the Caymacam salutes him; then the Basha comes near the City,* 1.176 to the place where his Tents are pitched: There he finds one, that the Inhabitants of Caire have prepared for him, which is very stately; for it hath long walls of Wax-cloth, five or six Foot high, Green and Red, and within there are about twelve Pavillions, all for the Basha's use; one for giving Audience, another for Sleeping in, and another for a Kitchin, and so of the rest. In the midst of all, is the Pavillion that serves for the Hall; it is large, and of Green, Red, and other Colours, of Cloth, over which there are a great many gilt Balls; all these Pavillions are of Wax-cloth, of several Colours, and lined within with sets of lovely Tapistry. Before the gate of the walls are two great Trees, on which hang above Two hundred Lamps, that are lighted in the Night-time; there is the same also before the Tents of the Principal Officers,* 1.177 as in the Caravan of Mecha. Now the Feast is prepared in the Hall of the Basha's Tent, a Bey takes the care of it; for the Beys chuse one of their number, to whom they give five Purses for this Feast, and he takes all upon him. When the Basha comes to the Tent that is prepared for him, the Bey who takes care of the Feast, meets him at the Wall-gate of the Tent, and there they kill a Bullock and a Sheep for a Sacrifice; then the Basha enters into the Hall, where he finds Dinner served in upon the ground along the Hall, according to their Mode; it consists of about Two thousand Dishes, ranked one upon two others (these Dishes have feet like our Salvers, but almost half a Foot high) and in that manner they are seven or eight Rows high. The dishes are all of Rice, Broths, and the like, Green, Red, Yellow, and of several Colours; they have also good Joynts of Roast-meat, but without any Sauce; however they make some Ragoes of the Nuts of Pine-Apples, Almonds, and such other things, they mind not the dainti∣ness and variety, but only the quantity of Victuals, and that they be not spoil'd. Dinner is prepared in the same manner in the Tents of the Kiaya, or the Basha's Lieutenant, and of his other Officers. When the first have filled their Bellies,* 1.178 they rise and give place to others, who Dine also, and then make way for the rest so long as any remain; and so several companies Dine, without any new Service. When the Basha has Dined, he withdraws into another Pavillion, where he is visited by all the Beys, and other persons of Quality, every one in his turn. The Basha stayed there two days, and the third which was Saturday,* 1.179 the Nine and twentieth of September, he made his Entry in this manner. First went the Servants of the Beys on Horse-back, their Sword by their side, and Harquebuss in hand, with the but-end on their Knee; they made near Five hundred Horse, and among them were several of the Retinue of the Basha. Next came the Spahis, divided into three Banners, the Green,* 1.180 the Yellow, and the Red. The Green called the Troop of the Charquese, or Circassians, marched first, every Trooper having a green Guidon on the top of his Pike; they were near Four hundred Men, and in the Rear

of the Troop came their Aga, having in his hand also a Pike, with a green Guidon, as the rest had; and after him the Timbrels and Pipes of the Troop. Next to that came the Yellow, all the Troopers carrying yellow Guidons;* 1.181 they made about four hundred and twenty, and were brought up by their Aga, followed by the Timbrels and Pipes. The last was the Red Troop,* 1.182 consisting of near five hundred Men, carrying every one a red Guidon; their Aga was in the rear, and after him the Timbrels and Pipes, but in greater number than with the two former; for that is the most honourable Troop of the three,* 1.183 and next to it is the Yellow. After the Spahies came a Troop of Tartarian-Horse, who belonged to the Basha; there were above an hundred of them all apparelled after the Tartarian fashion, with Pike in hand, and a Guidon strip'd white, yellow and red. These were followed by the Muteferacaes; then the Chiaoux with their great Caps of Ceremony, who made about three hundred in number. Next came all the Beys, every one with two Pages walking a foot before them. After them came seven Horse-men, every one leading a Horse of the Bashas; these Horses were covered with rich Housses, all embroidered with Gold and Silver; the Sousbasha followed them, having the Master of the Horse of the Basha on his left hand. All this body of Horse, made about two thousand five or six hundred Men. The Azapes followed them, covered for the most part with the Skins of Tigres all entire, and their Muskets on their shoulders, being in all above three hundred Men. And after them came the Janizaries, of whom two marched before, the one carrying on his shoulder a great wooden Club, and the other a great wooden Hatchet, as their Custome is when they march in Pomp; these Janizaries made in all near a thousand Men. After them marched the forty Janizaries of the Mehkeime or Justice, with their Caps of Ceremony,* 1.184 (Mehkeime signifies a place where Justice is rendered to all,) then sixteen Peicks or Bashas Lackqueys, marching two and two, with their Caps of Silver gilt on their heads, and Plumaches of Feathers in them. Then at length came the Basha, mounted on a stately Horse, with a Housse embroidered all over with Gold: He wore a Chiaoux Cap, with two black Herons tops standing upright upon it, and a lovely Vest of white Sattin lined with excellent Samour or Sable. After him came his Selihhtar and Tchoadar, each with his long tail'd Cap hanging down behind his back; and then came a great many Trumpets, Flutes, Drums, Timbrels, and such like Instruments, with all his domestick Servants on Horse-back. This Basha brought one thousand seven hundred Men with him, of whom some were in Armour to the very fingers ends; and two thousand three hun∣dred Beasts, Horses, Camels and Mules: It was easie to distinguish them from the rest, being all much harrassed by the Journey. When he entered into his Appartment, which had been prepared for him several days before, they killed two Bullocks.

CHAP. XXIV. Of the Journey from Caire to Suez.

BEing at Caire, I had a design to go see the Red-Sea,* 1.185 and knowing that there was a Caravan ready to part for Suez, I went to wait on Haly Bey, the Bey of Suez, who was then at Caire, and made him a Present of a Box of five or six pound weight of Sweet-meats, made by a French man, and he (when I had opened my design to him) promised me his protection. I went next to the Gentleman of his Horse, and having retained Mules for myself and Com∣pany, I made Provisions of Bread, Wine, Meat,* 1.186 and other things necessary to serve us to Suez, where they assured me I should find all things, but especially Water, nor forgetting neither a Quilt, Coverlet, and a Capot for every one of the company. We should have had a Tent also with us, but we carried

none, because the Beys Gentleman of the Horse, promised us the use of his to Suez.

Having made ready our Provisions, we loaded them on a Camel, and then I parted from Caire on Thursday, the seventeenth of January, in the Year 1658. with a Capucine, and a French man of Provence, who understood Arabick very well; and a Moor Servant who used to serve the French, and could speak a little Lingua Franca, having left my own Man, who was indisposed, at Caire. We went from Caire to the Birque, which is but four leagues distant, and encamped there, waiting for the rest of the Caravan, that consisted of two thousand Camels loaded with Timber, for building a Ship for the Grand Signior; Novali Bey had orders to get her built, and was gone a little before. The Bey of Suez went along with this Caravan in a Litter carried by two Camels; he made the Journey, because one of his Galleys was arrived; and that was the cause also of the Capucins going, that he might Confess the Slaves on board. This Birque is spacious, and has always water in it; there are some who pay so much a year to the Grand Signior, for liberty to catch Wild-duck and Fish in it. Friday all day long the rest of the Caravan was a coming, and Saturday Morning a Man cried aloud, that all should make ready to depart at Noon; for it is the custome in Caravans that are any thing big, to give notice of parting some hours before; but towards Noon there fell so great a Tempest,* 1.187 (for in Sandy Desarts there are Tempests, aswel as at Sea) that we could not set out that day. It blew so furiously, that I thought all the Tents would have been carried away by the Wind, which drove before it such clouds of Sand, that we were almost buried under it; for seeing no body could stay abroad, without having mouth and eyes immediately filled with Sand, we lay under the Tent, where the Wind drove in the Sand above a foot deep round about us: We had two Pasties not as yet opened, and they were wrapt up in napkins at the bottom of a Maund, well covered with a napkin sewed over it. When the Storm was over, which lasted not above three or four hours, we opened our Pasties, but found them so full of sand, that no body could eat of them (so subtile and penetrating the sand is) so that we were forced to throw them away; and these are the occasions, when one finds the advantage of a good Tent.

Next day, the twentieth of January, we parted at eleven a clock in the Morning, and at three in the Afternoon rested, that we might drink Coffee; then half an hour after, the Timbrels sounding, we marched on till one a clock next morning;* 1.188 for in the Caravans there is commonly a Man mounted on a Camel, who now and then beats two Timbrels or Kettle-drums that are on each side of the Camel before him; the Cases of these Timbrels are of brass, and they serve not only to chear up the Camels (who delight much in such a noise, and in singing) but also to give warning to those that stay behind.

Monday afternoon we parted, and having rested a little about five a clock, half an hour, we set forward again, and marched on till four of the clock in Tuesday morning, travelling always a good league an hour: About half an hours march beyond the place where we had rested, we saw a very handsome Turkish Sepulchre, where the Kiaya of a Caravan lies buried, who coming from Suez, was set upon by many Arabs: The Kiaya having for a long time fought with the Arabs in defence of the Caravan, as his office obliged him, (for the Kiaya of the Caravan is the Lieutenant of the Governour of Suez, and is obliged to guard all the Caravans that come or go from Caire to Suez;) this Kiaya (I say) after a long fight, received a thrust with a Pike in the Belly, of which he presently died, and was interred in the same place. Since that time, the Vessels on the Red-Sea pay five thousand Piastres at Suez to maintain an hundred Soldiers, whereof fifty are to abide in a Castle near to Suez, to guard the Countrey; and the other fifty with the Kiaya, wait upon the Caravans. An hours journey beyond that Sepulchre, we found a great long Cistern, built of fair Free-stone, which is filled by Rain-water. A little farther, and a good hour before one arrives at Suez, there is a fair Well, but the water of it is not good.* 1.189 Tuesday the two and twentieth of January, we arrived at Suez in the Night-time.

CHAP. XXV. Of the Journey from Suez to Tor.

BEing come to Suez, I had a great mind to go see Mount Sinai,* 1.190 called in Arabick Dgebel Mousa, which is in Arabia the Stony, and for that purpose we spoke to an Arab Scheick, who commanded above ten thousand Arabs; we had him before Haley Bey, the Bey of Suez, who recommended us to him, saying, that it was his pleasure we should be treated as his own head;* 1.191 this Scheik said he would answer for us, and gave us two Arab Scheiks for Guides; besides that, the Bey ordered a Letter to be written in our presence to the Governour of Tor, wherein he kindly recommended us to him, and gave us the Letter. These Arab Scheiks furnished us with Camels, and we paid them twelve Aslanies for each Camel to carry us thither and back again; they made us take six, to wit, one for every one of us, even for our Moor Servant, and two for themselves, and for carrying our Provisions: We gave them beside sixteen Piastres for some Caffaires which must be paid to the Arabs upon the Road, (Caffaire signifies Money given for the Redemption of any thing,* 1.192 as what is paid to the Arabs in nature of Caffaire is, that one may not be robb'd.) More than that, we were obliged to give them their Diet; so that all they had to do, was to guide us and feed the Camels. We provided for their Diet three Septiers (measures) of Flower, Butter, Honey,* 1.193 and twelve pound weight of Coffee, and ordinary Tobacco; and for ourselves we took what we could get, for there is nothing to be found to eat in all that Journey. We caused Bread then and Bisket to be made for us of part of our Flower, and finding no Wine at Suez, because the Jew who us'd to sell it was gone to Damiette to buy some, we took Brandy made of Dates, Meat ready drest, and in short, all that we could get to serve us till we came to Tor, where the Slaves of Suez assured us, we should find all things; but above all, we were sure not to forget six Borrachios, which we filled with water,; we carried no Tents with us, because the Slaves told us, that if we travell'd in so much state, the Arabs might set upon us, thinking they should find great Booty; but we did very ill in omitting them, for we were in no danger, considering how we were recommended, and having with us Arab Scheicks, who bore rule among them.

All our Provisions being then in a readiness,* 1.194 every one mounted his Camel as if we had been takeing Horse, and parted from Suez on Friday the five and twentieth of January, about four of the Clock after noon, keeping along the side of the Red-sea till we came to the end of it, where we crossed over dry to the other side; there we saw a Bear about an hundred paces from us, but so soon as it perceived us, it took the Water and swam over to the other side, so that we soon lost sight of it; we found many more of them afterwards on our Journey. We travelled till eight a Clock at night, and then rested in a place where there was some Broom; for they never brought us to rest any where but in Places where they could find some fewel, not only to warm them, but for boyling their Coffee and Mafrouca. This was the first time that ever I rode upon a Camel, and indeed, it made me very weary, for their Pack-saddles are so broad that they are very uneasie to ones Legs, which must straddle very wide; the fatigue of this lasted with me about two days, but after that, I grew accustomed to it. Camels are so well known at present,* 1.195 that I think it would be super∣fluous to give a description of them. I shall only say that there are two kinds of them, to wit, those which are called Camels, and those whom they name Dromedaries; at least I think they may be ranked under one kind;* 1.196 for all the difference that is betwixt them is, that the Camels have one bunch of flesh upon their Backs, are great and high, go constantly at one pace, which is fast, but hard, and travel (when they are loaded with seven or eight

hundred weight) about thirty good leagues a day. The Dromedaries have two bunches of flesh on their back, shaped naturally like a Saddle, are less, smaller and lighter than the Camels, and are only for carrying of men; they have a good soft trott, and will travel with ease forty Leagues a day; all that one has to do, is to sit them well, and indeed, there are some that tye themselves to them, for fear of falling; in all things else they are like Camels, they have Ears and a short Tail like them, a cloven foot, and as soft as a Spunge, the neck long, and hair just like a Camels, both kneel when they are loaded and unloaded, and then rise as they are bid; their Food is the same, and both endure thirst well, continuing upon occasion five days without drinking however the Camels can abstain longer than the Drome∣daries.

But to return to our Journey, we parted from our first Stage Saturday the twenty sixth of January about five a Clock in the morning, and during all this Journey,* 1.197 it was very cold in the mornings, until the sun was up. Shortly after we found several waters, which they call Ain el Mouse, that is to say, the Wells of Moses; there we filled our Borrachios, as we did where ever we found fresh water. About half an hour after ten, we rested, and having baited, we went forwards about eleven, and travelled till six a Clock at night, having the Red-Sea always on our right hand, about half a league wide of us. We travelled at such a rate, that it would have been all a good Foot man could do to have kept up with us.

Sunday January the twenty seventh, we set out about five a clock in the morning, and had not advanced above five hundred paces, when passing by the side of a Bush,* 1.198 we heard a Voice that called to us, and being come to the place we found a poor languishing Arab, who told us that he had not eaten a bit for five days; we gave him some Victuals and Drink with a provi∣sion of Bread for two days more, and so went on our way. We were not afraid of the Arabs,* 1.199 (whom we met on the way) for when we found any, they civilly saluted us, and departed after we had given them some Bread and Tobacco, which they very courteously desired of us, for they durst not do us any hurt, seeing us guarded by two Scheiks, who told them that they had an∣swered for us: when we rested in any place to feed, some of them came often, who having saluted us, fell a eating with our Arabs, and when none came, one of our Arabs cried out (as loud as possibly he could) That if any body had a mind to eat they might safely come, and made this proclamation on all sides, so that such as heard the invitation, failed not to come with their half-pikes, and laying down their Arms, fell a feeding together on the Ma∣frouca, (of which I shall speak hereafter:) but there was no necessity of mak∣ing proclamation at night, for so soon as they saw the fire we made, they came immediately to see what it meant. After we had given that poor famished Arab some Victuals, and travelled on in very good way, about ten a clock in the morning we entred among the Hills on very stony ground, loseing sight of the Sea:* 1.200 on these Hills we saw a great many Antelopes, and nothing else, though there be abundance of wild Beasts in these Desarts; as Woolves, Bears, wild Boars, Foxes, Hares, Chacales and Estridges; these are all very common there, and all know that the Chacales are engendred of a Dog-Wolf, and Bitch-Fox, or of a Dog-Fox and Bitch-Wolf. As for the Estridges they also live only in the Desarts, where some of them are of a pro∣digious bigness. Every one knows how Estridges are shaped, which have a neck, head and bunch on the Back like Camels, with which they agree in many things,* 1.201 so that the Turks call them Deve Cousch, that is to say, Bird-Camels; they go in the Fields always in an even number, as two, and two or four and four. They always beget a Male and a Female, and run swifter than a Horse, but tire likwise sooner; and while they run, they throw with their feet the stones that they find, with so much force against those that pursue them, that if they hit a man, they would do him a great deal of hurt. I saw one once give a great Dog such a blow with his foot, as left him sprawling with his four legs up in the Air.* 1.202 When they would catch Estridges, an Arab pursues them on Horse-back, at first gently, and they run away in the same manner, but still tiring a little. After two or three hours time, he

rides faster, and then when he sees his Fowl almost spent, he puts on to a speed; and having taken and Killed it, he makes a hole in the Throat of it, and then having tied streight the neck under the hole, three or four of them take hold of it, and for some time toss and shake it from side to side, just as one would rinse and wash a Barrel; when they think it is enough shaken, they untie the Throat of it,* 1.203 and then a great deal of Mantegue or a kind of Butter comes running out at the holes, insomuch that they say some of them will yield above twenty pound weight of that stuff; for by that shakeing, all the flesh of the Creature is dissolved into Mantegue, nothing remaining but skin and Bones. This would have seemed fabulous to me, if several Barbary men had not assured me of it. They say that this Mantegue is a very delicious food, but very apt to cause a looseness. We travelled among these Hills till noon, when we rested in a place where there were a great many fair Trees. Near to that is a place where the Rain-water that falls from the Mountains is kept, (and that water is very good.) Here it was that the People of Israel came out of the Red-Sea, having passed it over dry, to the ruine and confusion of Pharaoh and all his men, who pursued them, as may be seen in the Book of Exodus, where this place is called Shur, Chap. 15.* 1.204 It is at present called Corondel. Not far from thence there are hot waters in a Grott, which the Arabs call Haman el Pharaon; that is to say Pharaon's Bath. They tell a thousand stories of it, amongst others, that if you put four Eggs into it you can take out but three, and so many as one puts in, there is always one fewer taken out again, and that the Devil keeps for himself; we did not see that place, for our Arabs would not take us to it, because it was a little out of the way. They say also that over against Corondel the Sea is always Tempestuous, about the place where Pharaoh and the Aegyptians were Drowned. We parted from thence at one of the clock, and continued travelling till seven, then we rested in a place where there are Trees also.

Next day, being Monday the twenty eighth of January, we set out at four a Clock in the Morning, and having passed over several Hills, we came into good way again near to the Sea, but there is one place to be passed over just by the side of it, being white and smooth Rocks, where the Camels had much ado to keep from sliding, chiefly because they are wet with the Sea-water, but that lasts not long: we rested at Noon, and half an hour after set for∣wards again, and towards the evening entred among Hills, where we travelled till six a Clock that we rested in the hollow of a Rock, where we spent the Night at that Stage, and we could find no wood, not to boyl so much as our Coffee.

Tuesday the twenty ninth of January, we parted at five a clock in the Mor∣ning, and entred into a plain, where we travelled till Noon, and then having rested a little, after one a Clock we marched on over the same Plain, until six a Clock at Night, and then rested.

Next day Wednesday the thirtieth of January, we parted at four a clock in the Morning, and four hours after arrived at Tor: about an hour before we came to Tor, we found a great many Palm-trees, and a well of very bad Water.

CHAP. XXVI. Of Tor, and of our arrival at Mount Sinai.

* 1.205TOR is no considerable place, nevertheless it has a good harbour for Ships and Galleys. This Port is guarded by a little square Castle on the Sea-side, with a Tower at each corner and two small Guns on the out-side before the Gate: an Aga is Governour of this Castle where none but Turks lodge: Near to it there is a Convent of Greeks dedicated to St. Catherine and to the Apparition of God to Moses in the Burning-Bush. We delivered the Aga the Letter from the Bey of Suez, but because we had no present for him, he made no great account of us. We lodged in the Convent, which is very fair and spacious; there we were very well received, entertained with the Best, and ate Fish of the Red-Sea; at that time there were thirty Monks in it. We searched for Provisions there, but could not find any; only the Monks commiserating our condition, gave us Olives, Dates, Onions, and a Jar of Brandy, which we husbanded as well as we could: we stayed a day there because the Monks told us that we needed two Septiers more of Flower; so that having bought the Corn and got it ground, they baked Bread of one half of it, to give our Arabs by the way and upon the Mount, and all this they did in a very obliging manner. While we were there, we bought of these poor Greeks several stone-Mushromes, which in that place are got out of the Red-Sea; as also small Stone-shrubs, or branches of Rock, which they call white Coral, and many great shells, all taken out of the Sea, and very plea∣sant for artificial works: But they could not furnish me with any thing of a certain Fish,* 1.206 which they call a Sea-man; however I got the hand of one since. This Fish is taken in the Red-Sea, about little Isles, that are close by Tor. It is a great strong Fish and hath nothing extraordinary but two hands, which are indeed, like the hands of a man, saving that the Fingers are joined together with a skin like the foot of a Goose, but the skin of the Fish is like the skin of a wild Goat, or Shamois. When they spie that Fish, they strike him on the back with Harping-Irons, as they do Whales, and so kill him: They use the skin of it for making Bucklers, which are Musquet proof.

Having payed all and made a Present of some Piastres to the Monks, for their kind reception, we prepared to be gone, but were obliged first to pay a due of twenty eight Maidins a head, to wit, four for Tor, and twenty four for the Mount, and all to the use of the Arabs.

We parted from Tor on Thursday the last of January, about eleven a clock in the Fore-noon, with a Monk whom they sent with us, to shew us the chief Places of the Mount, and we payed for a Camel to carry him thither and back again. He spoke to us Turkish and Arabick, for he understood not a word of Lingua Franca. we saw on our way the Garden of the Monks of Tor, which is not far from it; this Garden is the place which in Holy Scrip∣ture is called Elim,* 1.207 where when the Israelites went that way there were only seventy Palm-Trees, and twelve wells of bitter water, which Moses made sweet, by casting a piece of Wood into them: these Wells are still in being, being near one another, and most of them within the precincts of the Garden; the rest are pretty near, they are all hot, and are returned again to their first bitterness, for I tasted of one of them where People Bath themselves,* 1.208 which by the Arabs is called Hamam Mousa, that is to say, the Bath of Moses; it is in a little dark Cave. there is nothing in that Garden, but abundance of Palm-Trees, which yield some rent to the Monks, but the seventy old Palm-Trees are not there now. After we had seen these things, we filled our Borrachios with the water of a Well near to that place, which

belongs to the Monks; I told them that it stunk a little, and they made answer that they had not Scowered it that year as they used every year to do, but withall, that it was the best water thereabouts. Heretofore they had a Church near to that Well, which the Turks Demolished, and with the stones of it built the aforesaid Castle called Tor. We travelled in the Plain till six a clock at night and then rested. This Plain is in Holy Scripture called the Desart of Sin,* 1.209 where the Israelites longing after the Onions of Aegypt, God sent them Manna. In this Plain we saw many Acacia-Trees, from which they have the Gum that the Arabs call also Akakia: It is to be obser∣ved that the Acacia-Trees which are now so common in France, came at first from America, and do not yield that Gum; and that which in the Shops is called Acacia, is the inspissated Juice of wild Plumb-Trees, and comes from Germany; these Trees are neither bigger nor higher than our ordi∣nary Willows, but the leaves of them are very thin and prickley. The Arabs gather the Gum in Autumn, without pricking the Trees, for it runs of it self, and then they sell it in the Town.

Next day, Friday the first of February, we set out about five a Clock in the Morning, and entred among high Mountains, where we rested near a Brook, and putting on again about eleven a clock, we travelled till about half an hour after four, that we came into a little Plain, where finding some Cottages of Arabs, our Guides would go no farther that day,* 1.210 but feasted merrily on the Milk that we bought for them in these Cottages. There we saw a great many Women, and little Children, most of them Sucking.

We parted from thence Saturday the second of February, about two a clock in the Morning, and travelled a Foot over other Hills, where the way was very bad; about eight a Clock in the morning we found little Houses pretty well built; where Arabs live at present.* 1.211 This place is called Raphi∣dim in holy Scripture. A little further we saw several Gardens belonging to the Monks, very well walled round and full of all sorts of fruit-Trees, and Vines too, kept in good order.* 1.212 Then we found the Rock out of which Moses brought Water, when he had smitten it twice with his Rod; it is only a Stone of a prodigious height and thickness, rising out of the Ground; on the two sides of that stone we saw several holes by which the water hath run, as may be easily known by the prints of the Water, that hath much hollowed it; but at present no water issues out of them. This Stone in Holy Scripture is called the Stone of Strife. About ten in the Morning we came to a Monastery of Greeks, dedicated to the honour of the forty Martyrs: from this to the great Monastery where the Body of St. Catherine lyes, it is two hours travelling. This Monastery of the forty Martyrs is pretty neat, it hath a fair Church and a lovely large Garden, wherein are Apple-Trees, Pear-Trees, Walnut-Tree, Orange-Trees, Limon-Trees, Olive-Trees, and all other Fruit-Trees that grow in this Country; and indeed, that little of good Fruit which is eat at Caire, comes from Mount Sinai; besides that, there are fine Vineyards, and very good water there. A Greek Monk lives always in this Monastery, and he whom we found there, told us that he had been twenty years in it; he takes care to see the Gar∣dens dress'd and kept in order, by some Arabs who willingly serve him. We rested in this Monastery at the foot of the Mountain of St. Catherine.

CHAP. XXVII. Of the Mountain of St. Catharine.

* 1.213HAving reposed our selves in the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs, we went out at One of the Clock, and ascended the Mountain of St. Catharine, that is before it, taking with us a little Arab Boy, who carryed a small Lea∣ther Bucket full of Water, that we might drink when we were dry. We were near three Hours in getting up that Mountain, we stopt (indeed) seve∣ral times by the way to drink Water; but besides, the Hill is full of sharp cutting Stones, and many steep and slippery places to be climb'd up, that hinder People from going fast. There are many Stones to be found in ascending this Hill, on which Trees are naturally represented, that being broken retain the same Figure within; of which Stones, some are prodigiously big. About the middle of the Mountain there is a lovely Spring of clear Water, with a great Bason in the Rock. This Spring was discovered by a Quail, when the Monks having brought down the Body of St. Catharine so far, were ready to die for Heat and Thirst, and that Spring began at that time to run. This water was so hard frozen in the Bason, that we could not break the Ice with good blows of a Stick. In many places of the Mountain, we saw also a great deal of Snow, and at length, got up to the top of it, where there is a Dome, under which is the place whither the Body of St. Catharine was brought by Angels, immediately after she was Beheaded in Alexandria; that holy Body remained Three hundred Years there, until a good Monk, having had in the Night-time a Revelation, that the Body was in the top of the Hill, went next Morning with all the Religious, who in Procession brought it down to the Monastery, where it was put in a lovely Silver Shrine, that is still there. Under the Dome where this Body lay, there is a great piece of Rock rising a little out of the Ground, whereon (they say) the Angels placed it, and it bears still the marks, as if a Body had been laid on the Back upon it, for the form of the Reins appear there. The Greeks hold that this Cave was made by Miracle, but there is some likelihood that it hath been done by the Hands of Men: They made this little Dome about the Rock, in form of a square Chap∣pel. Having in this place paid our Devotions, we came down again with a great deal of trouble, and were two long hours by the way; so that we were tired enough, when we arrived at the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs at six a clock at night.

CHAP. XXVIII. Of the Mountain of Moses.

* 1.214WEE set out of our Lodging on Sunday the third of February, about seven a clock in the morning, that we might go see the Mountain of Moses, which is not so high, nor so hard to ascend as the former: But there is much Snow upon it, aswel as upon the other, and many good Cisterns in several places, especially near the top, there is a fair and good Cistern. After several rests, we got to the top about nine a clock. On it there are two Churches, one for the Greeks, and another for the Latins; from the Greek Church, you enter into that of the Latins, which is dedicated to the Ascension of our Lord;

there we heard Mass said by the Capucin who was with us. Near to that, there is a little Mosque, and by the side of it a Hole or little Cave, where Moses fasted Forty Days. There is a small Grott also at the side of the Latin Church, where Moses hid himself, when having desired to see God's Face, the Lord told him, that he could not see his Face and live; but that he should hide himself in that Rock, and that when he was passed by, he should see his back parts: His Back and Arms are very well marked on the Rock under which he hid himself. It was upon the top of this Mount that Moses received from God the Ten Com∣mandments written upon two Tables. From this place one may easily see down into the Convent, which is at the foot of the Mount, and as it were just under those who are on the top of it. There you see a fair large Church covered with Lead, where (they say) the Body of St. Catherine is in pieces. Before the door of the said Church, within the Precincts of the Monastery, there is beautiful Mosque. As we were coming down again, we found by the way a great Stone, and (as the Greeks say) this is the place to which the Pro∣phet Elias came, having fled from Mount Carmel, because of the Persecution of Jezabel, Queen of Syria; being come to that place where the Stone is, an Angel appeared unto him, and with a Rod, smiting that great Stone, made it fall down in the way, and forbid Elias to go any farther, telling him, that since Moses had not been in the Holy Land, he should not go to the top of this Mount. A little lower, is the Foot of a Camel, so well imprinted on the Rock, that it cannot be better stamped upon the Sand over which a Camel passes; the Moors and Arabs say it is the print of the Foot of Mahomet's Camel, which it left there as he passed that way upon it, they kiss it with great devotion; but it is credible that the Greeks have made it to captivate their friendship, to the end they may reverence those places. After that, in several places of the Mount, we saw little Chappels, which have all little Houses near them, and Gardens full of Fruit-Trees. Heretofore these places were inhabited by Her∣mites, in so great number, that it is said, that in the Mountain of Moses there were in ancient Times above fourteen thousand Hermites; afterwards the Greeks kept Monks in all these Hermitages, to celebrate Divine Office; but at present there are none, because the Arabs too much tormented them. We dined upon this Mountain on Bread, Onions, and Dates that we had brought with us, and then went to see the Hermitages, and first we found three of these Chappels altogether, with a passage from one to another: Behind the Altar of the third, which is dedicated to the Honour of St. Elias, there is a Hole in the Rock, where Elias lived all the while that he sojourned in that Mount, because of the Persecution of Jezabel. Then we came to another place where there are three Chappels more, dedicated one to the Honour of the Bles∣sed Virgin, another to the Honour of St. Ann, and a third to the Honour of St. John; after that, to a Chappel dedicated to St. Pantaleon, then to another dedicated to the Holy Virgin, another to David, another to the Baptism of our Lord Jesus Christ, another to St. Anthony the Hermite; to another place where there are three little Cells, in which (the Greeks say) that two Elder Sons of the Greek Emperour shut themselves up, each in his Cell, causing the Doors to be walled up, and leaving only a Window in each, still to be seen, by which they received Victuals from a Servant who lived in the third Cell, that was not shut up, and that both of them died in their several Cells. All these Chappels are scattered up and down upon the Mount, so that one must go a good way before he can visite them all: Near to every one of them, there is a little House, a Garden, and good Water. From thence we went down to the great Mona∣stery at the foot of the Mountain, by steps whith heretofore reached from the said Monastery up to the top of the Mount, and were in number fourteen thou∣sand; at present some of them are broken; those that remain, are well made, and easie to go up or down.* 1.215 One may judge of the height of St. Catherine's Mount, by this, which certainly is not so high by a third, and yet hath fourteen thousand Steps up to it. Upon the way as we came down, we found two fair stone Porticos, by which we passed, and where (the Greeks say) that they who performed the Pilgrimage, paid heretofore a certain small due. After that, we came to the great Monastery at the bottom, which is welt built of good Free-stone, with very high smooth Walls; on the East-side there is a Window,

by which those that were within drew up the Pilgrims into the Monastery, with a Basket which they let down by a Rope that runs in a Pully, to be seen above at the Window, and the Pilgrims went into it one after another, and so were hoisted up; by the same place they also let down Victuals to the Arabs with a Rope. We entered not into that Monastery, because it was shut. To understand the reason of this, you most know the History of this Monastery.

CHAP. XXIX. Of the Monastery of St. Catherine.

* 1.216FOR these thousand years, the Greeks have been in Possession of this Mona∣stery, which was given them by a Greek Emperour, called Justinian; and they afterwards living there, on a certain day, Mahomet, who (as the Greeks say) was their Camel Driver, weary after the toyl of bringing in Provisions upon the Camels, fell a sleep before the Gate of the Monastery; while he was a sleep, there came an Eagle and hovered for a long time over his Head,* 1.217 which the Por∣ter of the Monastery observing, ran in great amazement to acquaint the Abbot with it, who immediately coming, saw the same thing, and reflecting there∣upon, as soon as Mahomet awoke, asked him, whether or not, if being a Great and Mighty Lord, he would be kind to them? Mahomet made answer, that he neither was, nor ever like to be such; but the other still insisting upon that Supposition, Mahomet told him, that he ought not at all to doubt of it, but that if it were in his power, he would do them all the good he could, because he had his livelihood from them;* 1.218 the Abbot would needs have that Promise from him in writing, but Mahomet affirming that he could not write, the Abbot sent for an Ink-horn,* 1.219 and Mahomet having wet his Hand in the Ink, clapt it upon a leaf of clean Paper, and made thereon the impression of his Hand, which he gave them as a confirmation of what he said. Having sometime after attained to that Grandeur which was presaged to him by the Eagle, he called to mind his Promise, and preserved to them their Monastery, with all the Land belong∣ing to it, but upon condition, that they should give Victuals to all the Arabs of the neighbourhood. And for that reason, when there are any Monks in the Monastery, they are obliged to give Half a Peck of Corn to every Arab that comes, and these Arabs grind it in a little Mill that they carry always about with them, who come sometimes to the number of an hundred and fifty, two hundred, nay, four hundred in a day, and must all be served; so that it amounts sometimes to many Quarters of Corn, and to some they give three or four Piastres a year, more or less, according as they deserve it. Now about two years before I was there, Provisions coming to the Monastery, the Arabs robb'd them; which made the Greeks forsake the Convent, the Gate whereof is walled up, and the Walls so high, that they cannot be scaled, and without Cannon, that place cannot be taken, if there were any within to defend it: But now for two years there has no body lived in it, because they would punish the Arabs, by depriving them of the sustenance which they daily had of them, till they can bring them to reason; and therefore it was that we found so many Monks in that Monastery of Tor, whither they were almost all retired, for there are not so many there, when the Convent of Mount Sinai is open. These Monks had many Rents in Candy, which they lost by the Invasion of the Turks. They have a Bishop, who is called the Bishop of Mount Sinai, on whom depend all these Convents and Chappels, even the Convent of Tor too; and this Bishop depends not on the Patriarch, he was at that time at Caire. We were fain to rest satisfied then, with what we saw of that Monastery from the top of the Mount.

CHAP. XXX. Of Mount Horeb, and of the Place where the Golden Calf was molten, &c.

AFter we had walked round that Monastery, we returned,* 1.220 and saw at some small distance, Mount Horeb, on which Moses fed his Flocks, when he saw the Burning Bush. And near to that, are the Mountains upon which Aaron prayed for the People, all little ones. There is a fair Garden adjoyning to the Monastery, and within the Walls of it, a lovely Chappel, dedicated to the Holy Virgin. Upon our return from the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs, about half a quarter of a league from the said Garden, we saw the Stone, or rather Place where the Golden Calf was molten; it is in the very Rock,* 1.221 where one may see a great Head of a Calf cut to the life, and within that place it was (as the Greeks say) that the Riches and Ornaments of the Israelites were cast, of which they made the Head of the Golden Calf that they worshipped while Moses was with God upon the Mountain: But it is more probable that the Greeks have in that place cut the Head of the Calf in the Rock, to shew the place where it was Cast, or where it was placed upon a Pillar. Something near to that, there is a high and great Stone, with some Inscription upon it, but so defaced, that none of it can be read. The Greeks say that this Stone was to mark the place where Jeremiah hid the Vessels of Gold and Silver, and other costly Furniture of the Temple of Salomon, when the Israelites were carried away Captives to Babylon, and that it is not known how it hath been brought thither, but that there is a very ancient Authour that speaks of it, as being on Mount Sinai. Father Kercher explains it in his Prodromus Copticus,* 1.222 where he forges an Explanation of these Characters, which are unknown to all Men besides himself, as if they were Hieroglyphicks, whereof without doubt he hath had the meaning by Revelation. I relate all these things according to the Tradition of the People of the Countrey, which not being authorized by Texts of Scripture, nor ancient History, I leave it to the Reader to believe or not believe, as he thinks fit.

Having seen what was to be seen, we returned to the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs, very weary after so much mounting and descending. Our luck was good that no Wind blew when we went up these Mountains, for whether hot or cold, it would have kill'd us.

CHAP. XXXI. Of our Return to Suez.

WEE had so bad entertainment on Mount Sinai,* 1.223 that we thought of nothing but of returning as soon as we could to Suez, where we hoped to refresh ourselves; and therefore Monday the Fourth of February, having made a Present of some Money to the Monk who lives in the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs, we set out at eight of the clock in the morning, to go see what still remained to be seen, being unwilling, notwithstanding all our fatigue, to leave any thing unseen; we went first to the Church of the Twelve Apostles,

and then having travelled about an hour, and one half of it up hill, we went down into a very low place, where there is a little Habitation, with several Gardens full of Fruit-trees, and a large Spring of excellent Water. There there is a little Church dedicated to St. Cosme and St. Damian. Having ascen∣ded a little, we went down by the very place where the Earth opened and swallowed up Corah,* 1.224 Dathan and Abiram, because they had mutinied against Moses.

About eleven of the clock, we came to a place where our Camels stay'd for us, and having dined, and given some Piastres to the Monk who had shew'd us every thing, for his pains, we set out about noon, and followed the same way we came till four of the clock in the afternoon, that we left it and struck off to the right, leaving the Red-Sea at a pretty good distance from us on our left hand. We travelled in good way, being the streightest, plea∣santest and shortest Road from Mount Sinai to Suez: But as we went, we took the way by Tor, partly to see it, and partly to take a Monk to guide us in our visitations. About half an hour after five, we rested in a great Plain.

Next morning, Tuesday the Fifth of February, we set out at four of the clock, keeping still in good way, and rested about ten of the clock in a place where there was Water. We went from thence about eleven, and came to rest again about half an hour after five in the evening.

Next day, Wednesday the sixth of February, we parted at five a clock in the morning, and about eight, some two or three hundred paces wide of the Road, we found a Well of good water, where we provided ourselves. About half an hour after one of the clock we rested, and at two went forwards again, till six at night, when we took up our rest.

Next day, Thursday the seventh of February, we parted about five of the clock in the morning, about six we entered again into the way by which we came, and found a Caravan of about two hundred Camels belonging to Arabs, loaded with Coal, and going to Caire: When they have gathered their Gums, they carry them in this manner in Caravans to the City. We rested at Corondel about ten a clock in the morning, and setting out again at eleven, travelled till seven at night, where we rested in a little Wood. From whence we departed next day, Friday the eighth of February, about four of the clock in the morn∣ing, and rested at eleven. From thence we set forward at noon, and came to rest at six of the clock at night, at the place which we had made our first Stage, when we came from Suez.

The same evening at seven of the clock we parted, and arrived at Suez on Friday the eighth of February, at eleven of the clock at night, but lay with∣out near the Gate until day, that it was opened, suffering a great deal of cold, for we had no wood to make fire.

All the way back from Mount Sinai to Suez, was very good and even, and we were very merry upon the Road, for I took great pleasure to hear the Arabs tell the several passages of their Life, putting them now and then in the humour by questions I put to them.

Here I shall relate what I learn'd from them.

CHAP. XXXII. Of the Arabs.

THE Arabs are of the Race of Ishmael, and of his Twelve Sons, who were the Patriarchs of the Tribes of the Arabs, as the Twelve Sons of Jacob, were Heads of the twelve Tribes of Israel. These Arabs are divided into those who live in Towns, and those who inhabit the Desarts; these last are the Arabs whom the Ancients called Scenitae, and are now adays called Bedouins, of whom particularly I intend to Treat. One good quality they have, that they willingly rob Caravans when they can, and do no other hurt, but strip Travellers stark naked, unless they make resistance; but when they catch any Turks, they give them not so good quarter, especially if any of their Coun∣trymen have been lately used severely in the Towns. These People who are very numerous, live in the Desarts, where (though they lead a most wretched life) yet they think themselves most happy. Their Cloathing is a long blew Shirt, sewed up on both sides from top to bottom, and then with a great piece of white Searge, they wrap themselves about the Body, under the Arm-pits, and over the Shoulders, giving it several turns about them; some of them also have Drawers, and a kind of Furred Vest, or else a great many Sheeps Skins sewed together, putting the rough side towards their Shirt to keep them warm, and turning it the contrary way again, when they would be cooler: Several wear also a kind of Pabouches, which are almost like our Shoes. Their Wives are also miserably ill Cloathed, all cover their Faces with a Linnen-cloath with holes in it for their Eyes, and wear great Rings of Lattin in their Ears. Most of these People have flocks of Camels, Sheep, and Goats, which they feed here and there, according as they find Grass; and where they find Pa∣sture, they pitch their ugly Tents made of Goats-hair, in which their Wives and Children live; but when that is eaten up, they pack up Bag and Baggage, and loading their Camels with all they have, House, Goods, Wives and Chil∣dren, they go in search of Pasture somewhere else. They live on Camels or Goats Milk, and on the flesh of Camels, with water for their Drink; they also eat Cakes or Buns, among others they have the Mafrouca,* 1.225 which is a great regale to them; and indeed, they eat but seldom of that, I have seen them many times make it on our Journey to Mount Sinai, where they had it daily, Morning and Evening at my cost, for I grudged them nothing. They mingle Flower with Water in a Wooden-Bowl, which they carry always about with them, and knead it well into a Paste, then they spread it upon the Sand, ma∣king it round, very thin, and a Foot and a half in Diametre, after that they lay it upon the Sand where the Fire was made, covering it up with hot Embers; and live Coals over them, and when it is baked on one side, they turn it upon the other: When it is well baked, they break it into small pieces, and with a little Water knead it again of new, adding thereto Butter, and sometimes also Honey; they make it into a thick Paste, and then break it into great pieces, which they work and press betwixt their Fingers, and so feed on them with delight; and they look like those Gobbets of Paste that are given to Geese to fatten them. Their Desarts are divided into Tribes, and the Tribes into Families, which possess different Quarters. Each Tribe hath a Scheik el Kebir, or great Scheik, and every Family hath its Scheik,* 1.226 or Cap∣tain. The Scheik el Kebir commands all the other Scheiks,* 1.227 and these Scheiks administer Justice to the Arabs, having power over them of Life and Death, and are punctually obeyed in what they Command, for they can Fine those in Money who are refractory; the Offices of Scheiks are Hereditary, descending from Father to Son, and when the Scheik of Family dies without Children, all the Family assemble together; and having set forth the praises of those whom they think worthy of the Charge, they chuse the most vertuous, and

entreat the Scheik el Kebir to approve of their Election. It is the same thing in the Election of the Scheik el Kebir, only it is made in an Assembly of the whole Tribe. The Bashas commonly give some pay to the Scheik el Kebir of the Tribes that are scattered in their Governments, being very unwilling to have any quarrel with them; and the Caravans also allow him a sum of Mo∣ney yearly, that they may safely pass without Molestation; to the other Scheiks they give Provisions, Money, Vests, and Cloth for Shirts, in certain proportions, and these Blades think themselves in their Tents happier than Kings. Sultan Amurat heretofore would have confined them to live in Towns exempted from all Payments, but they would not hear of it. They keep constantly Spies abroad on all hands, to know if there be any Plots in hand against them, and to be always ready to defend themselves, or flie farther off; and certainly there is no great hurt to be done unto them in those Desarts, for seeing there are no High-ways in them, an Enemy would soon lose themselves. Besides that, they must carry with them Provisions for all the time they must be there, for nothing is to be found in those places, nay, they would soon die of thirst too; for though there be several Wells on all hands, yet none but the Arabs know where they are. The Arms of the Arabs are Lances, or Half-pikes, Swords or Sha∣bles, and long Daggers; Fire-arms they have none, but are much afraid of them, and it is prohibited to sell them any, though indeed, they know not at all how to use them. For I know a French Merchant, who one time meeting with Arabs, they stript him stark naked, and before they left him, made him shoot off his Fire-lock and Pistols, which they suffered him to keep. They have also Bucklers, made of the Skin of a Fish, called the Sea-man. They have pretty Horses,* 1.228 that are small, but indefatigable, and run so fast that they seem to flie; where they alight, they leave them without making them fast to any thing, and these Horses stir not from the place where they have been left.* 1.229 And indeed, when they find them for their purpose, they are careful to feed them with Camels Milk, Butter, Camels flesh dried in the Sun, and Wheat, all which things make them very strong. Those who have any competent Estate, keep a Camel to save their Life in time of danger. They feed him from a Colt with Camels Milk, Butter, Camels flesh dried in the Sun, and Wheat, and give him nothing else to eat, which makes them very strong and swift, as well as their Horses. The Arabs of different Tribes, are many times in Wars one with another, and the Scheik el Kebir marches at the head of them. When one of them kills another in time of peace, if the Friends apprehend the Malefactor, they carry him before the Scheik el Kebir, who condemns him to death, or to pay so much to the Relations of the deceased, according as they desire it; but commonly those of the same Family, revenge the death of their Relation, and they are so obstinate in their revenge, that they'll keep it an Hundred Years; the Mother ever now and then shewing her Children the Bloody Shirt of their Father. When any one of them dies, he is buried in the same place where he Expired, and some Stones put upon his Grave.

They told me a great many things more of their Customs, as among others, If an Arab marry a Maid, he kills a Camel or two, according as he is able to make a Feast, and gives so much to the Maid: If at any time after, a near Re∣lation of the Maids (who was absent when the Wedding was made) happen to come, and be displeased with the Marriage, he pays back the Husband what Money he gave to his Kinswoman, the Camel which he killed, and breaks the Marriage, though the Maid be deflowred. Though these People be Musul∣mans, yet they make no other Prayers, than now and then to say Bismillah, that is to say, in the Name of God.

To conclude, they have a wonderful slight in stealing, and one of the Scheiks who went with me to Mount Sinai, told me, that if he pleased, he could in the Night-time, kill the Bey of Suez in his Bed, in spight of all his Guards, and though all his Doors were shut. And a little before I came to Caire, three Arabs contending together which of them was the nimblest Rogue, one brag'd that he could steal all that was in the Kitchin of the Basha; the other thinking that to be but a small matter, said that he would steal the Basha's Signet, or Seal; and the third offered to do more than they both, saying, he would

kill the Basha in his Bed. The first made a shift to slip into the Kitchin, and in the Night-time carried all away, not leaving so much as a Skillet; the second thronging in among those, who one day entred into the place where the Basha was Sealing, got pretty near to him, and the Basha having sealed something, and offering the Seal to some body to hold, this Knave stretched out his hand, and having received it, shortly after disappeared: The third went so far that he slid into the Basha's Appartment, and entring into his Chamber in the Night-time, came to his Beds-side, where having drawn his Cangiar, his hand was up to have stabbed him, when a little Boy, who was in the Bed, and saw the glittering light of the Cangiar, cried out so loud, that the Basha starting up, avoided the blow: Immediately Servants came in, and seized the Villain, who was next day Empaled for it.

CHAP. XXXIII. Of Suez and the Red-Sea.

BEing come back to Suez, we went and thanked the Bey for his kindness, and seeing there was no Caravan ready to set out, we had time enough to consider Suez, and the Red-Sea: This Sea which many think is so called because its Water is Red, others more rationally because the Sand of it is Red, is no Redder than any other Sea, neither in its Water nor Sand; only I observed as I went to Mount Sinai, some Mountains all over Red upon the sides of it, but I believe, the reason why it is called Red, is: That the Translators of the Greek into Latin, having in the Greek found the Erythrean Sea, have taken that word in Greek for Red, not considering that it is the Name of an ancient King called Erythra; who hath given his Name to that Sea,* 1.230 which Name reaches a good way beyond the Gulf of Arabia, comprehending all the Sea that is betwixt the Eastern Coast of Africa, and the Indies. See Arrian's Na∣vigation of the Erythrean Sea. This Sea in the holy Scripture is called Yam Souf, that is to say, the Sea of Rushes, because the Banks of it are full of Rushes. And the Arabs call it Buhr el Calzem,* 1.231 as if one should say the Sea of Clysma, because of the Town named Clysma, which was heretofore built at the most Northern point of that Sea, which is a Gulf of the Ocean, growing narrower and narrower the more Northward it runs; and during the space of five days that I kept along the Coast of it in going to Mount Sinai, I could not observe it to be any where above eight or nine Miles over. This Sea ebbs and flows like the Ocean. Two Galleys that belong to Haly Bey, Trade on it, and many Ships also, which for the most part belong to Beys of Aegypt, but every Year some of them are lost; because being narrow and full of Rocks, the Ships want Sea-room. It was a Sea of great Trade, before the discovery of the way to the East-Indies by the Cape of Good Hope, by which the Portuguese, English, Dutch, and others, sail now to the Indies, and bring us the Drugs, Spices, Pretious Stones, Pearls, and many other Commodities, which for the most part came formerly only by Aleppo, or by the Red-Sea, and were unload∣ed at the Port of Cossir, from whence they were carried to the Town of Chana,* 1.232 lying upon the Nile, and from thence conveyed down the River to Caire, and so to Alexandria. Strabo observed this way and passage, when he writes that Coptos,* 1.233 a Town of the Thebais (the Ruines whereof are still to be seen betwixt Cossir and Chana) was a place of Traffick common to the Arabs and Indians. There are very good Oysters taken in this Sea, as small as those of England, and many other good Shell-fish, besides several extraordinary Fish, and among others that which they call the Sea-man, (mentioned before) and the Chagrin,* 1.234 which is a Fish shaped like a Sea-dog, and about seven or eight Foot long, at least that which was sent me from Caire is so. Upon the side, and at the

beginning of this Sea (famous for the passage of the Israelites) stands Suez,* 1.235 which some will have to be the Ancient Arsinoe, so called from Arsinoe the Sister of Ptolomy Philadelphus, who built that Town, and called it by the name of his Sister; it is a little Town, containing about Two hundred Houses. It hath a pretty Harbour, but so shallow Water, that Ships cannot put into it, and the Galleys themselves must be half unloaded before they enter into it; never∣theless, Ships and all ride safe enough in the Road. These Galleys are very little, they carry no great Guns, but only a Petrera to salute the Ports where they arrive. Close by the Harbour there is a Baraque, railed in with great wooden Palissadoes, where are nine Culverines, every one longer than another, of which the biggest is of a prodigious length, and I take it to be much longer, and of a far wider bore, than the two which are at Malta upon the Baraque, and in the Castle St. Erme; they are of the Turkish make, and nothing of Workmanship about them. There are also thirteen pieces of very great Can∣non there, and upon one of them a Flower-de-Luce; however it is easily dis∣cernable, that it hath been made in Turkie, perhaps by some Renegado French man, for it is altogether Turkish, without any Workmanship, as all the rest are. These Guns are not mounted, and were sent thither from Constantinople by Sultan Amurat, on a design he had of attempting an Expedition into the Indies, with a Fleet fitted out on that Sea. Close by the Gate of Suez there is an Eminence, where heretofore stood a Castle built by the Franks, and upon the same Eminence there is still a great Gun. The Slaves told us, that the People of the Country believe, there is some Treasure near that place guarded by Hobgoblins; for my part, that Night we arrived from Mount Sinai, I lay at the foot of that Eminence, and the Sprights did not at all disturb my rest. There is in this Town still a Greek Church, but in bad order. There are some pretty well built Houses in Suez, and an indifferent good Market-place. To conclude, this Town is very Populous, when any Ship arrives, or when the Galleys are in the Harbour, but at other times it is very Desolate; and indeed, there is not so much as any good Fresh Water within two Leagues round it.

CHAP. XXXIV. My Return from Suez to Caire.

* 1.236AFter I had seen Suez at leisure enough, I prepared to be gone with a Ca∣ravan of Two hundred Camels, which the Emir-Adge had provided to carry from Suez to Caire, the Coffee that was brought in the Galleys, and twelve Ships which were in the Road; there was in all Thirty thousand Load, each Load weighing three or four hundred weight, and every Camel carried two of these Loads. I hired a Camel for my self, there being no Mules to be got, and we parted from Suez, Thursday the fourteenth of February, about eight a Clock in the Morning; the Caravan was attended by a guard of Arabs from sundry places. We left several thousands of Camels in Suez, and met abroad several great Troops belonging to Arabs and others, who came to let their Camels for Transporting of the Coffee. I soon found the diffe∣rence betwixt the Camels of the Arabs, and those of the Town, for being accustomed to Ride upon the Camels of the Arabs, I could not make use of this which I had hired to carry me to Caire, one half days Journey; so that I hired a little Ass from a man of the Caravan, and rode upon it to Caire. The truth is, the Camels of the Arabs go a great deal more easily than the others do. At Noon we past by a Castle called Adgeroud, which we saw not as we came, because we past it in the Night-time, only three persons live there who drink Salt-water. We rested at Two a Clock, and put on again at

Six, travelling till three a clock in the morning of Friday the fifteenth of February, when we rested; we parted again at noon, and travelling till three a clock after, we rested; then we set forwards again at seven a clock at night, and kept travelling till next day Saturday the sixteenth of February, that about eight a Clock we arrived at Caire.

This Caravan from Caire to Suez, and from Suez to Caire, travels com∣monly very fast, because it cannot spend much time by the way, for other∣wise they would fall short of provisions, having none but what they carry with them, both for Men and Camels, and therefore they never stay above two or three days at Suez, and if they stayed longer, they would starve that Town, where there is nothing but what is brought in from the Countrey about, when the Galleys or some Ships arrive; and indeed, these Camel drivers are always so weary and spent, that they can hardly stir, they have not so much as time to sleep, and now and then they run before the Caravan and tumbling down uPon the ground, fall presently a sleep, taking there a short nap till the Caravan be past, when some take care to awaken them. In this Journey from Suez to Caire, for a days time and more we had so hot a Wind, that we were forced to turn our backs to it,* 1.237 to take a little breath, and so soon as we opened our mouths, they were full of Sand: our Water was so extreamly heated with it, that it seemed to be just taken off of the Fire: and many poor People of the Caravan, came and begged of us a cup of water for Gods sake; for our parts we could not drink it, it was so hot, The Camels were so infested with this Wind, that they could not so much as feed; but it lasted not above six hours in its force; and if it had continued longer, one half of the Caravan would have perished. It was such a kind of wind that the year before so infested the Caravan of Mecha, that two thousand men died of it in one night.* 1.238 In this Journey I observed that when the feet of the Camels were cut and galled, the Camel drivers took the Bones of dead Camels, (of which all the way from Caire to Suez is so full, that following only the tract where these Bones ly, one may go the streight way to Suez) they took these Bones (I say) and with the marrow they fonnd in them anointed the sore place of the Camel. Such as would travel to Mount Sinai, ought to make provision at Caire of all that they may stand in need of, and not trust to Suez or Tor, for a Camel will carry all. I'm sure for want of that counsel, we suffered much, and when we came back to Caire, were all troubled with a Rheum that fell down upon our Lungs like to have choaked us, by reason of the cold icey waters that we were forced to drink upon that Mountain; nay our Moor Servant had almost lost his Life by it.

CHAP. XXXV. The Journey from Caire to Gaza.

BEing recovered from my Journey to Mount Sinai,* 1.239 I resolved to travel to Jerusalem, and seeing that which most recommends these places to us, is the Birth, Life and Death of our Lord Jesus Christ, I stayed till Lent, that I might be there at the time when the Church celebrates the memory of his dolorous Passion. There is a Caravan that yearly in Lent goes from Caire to Jerusalem; and with the Master of the present years Caravan, (who was a Christian of the Countrey) I made a bargain for eighteen Piastres each Coune, and all Caffaires payed to Jerusalem.* 1.240 These Counes are Hampiers like Cradles carried upon Camels Backs one on each side, but they have a back, head and sides, like the great Chairs that sick people sit in. A man rides in each of these Counes, and over them they lay a covering,

which keeps them both from the Rain and Sun, leaving as it were a Win∣dow before and behind upon the Camels back. We wanted four Counes, for we were four in company, to wit, a Capucin, a Provencial, my self and my Servant,* 1.241 but the Capucin payed only sixteen Piastres; the Religious not pay∣ing so much as the Seculars. We had Biskets made for us, French Bread, Wine in Flasks, Rice, Lentils, and other Lent-Provisions; carrying with us a Tent, a Pot or Skillet, and in short, all that was necessary, not forgetting Candles, Candlestick and Leather-Buckets, to draw Water with. All this we had carried upon a Camel over and above the Bargain.

Being thus provided, we parted from Caire Saturday the three and twen∣tieth of March, at one a Clock after noon, every one mounted on his Ass, and by four a Clock came to Hhanque,* 1.242 which is a little Town where the Caravans of Jerusalem make their first Stage. There we lay, and next day came the whole Caravan, consisting of six Score Camels, with several Horses, Mules and Asses.

We parted from Hhanque Monday morning the twenty fifth of March, and rested without the Town till Noon; at which time we set out on our jour∣ney,* 1.243 and at eight a Clock at night came to ly at Bulbeys; we had a tryal then of these Panniers, and for my part I was much at my ease, for I had under me a good thick quilt and a Pillow, and lay at full Length, turning my feet sometimes towards the neck and sometimes towards the tail of the Camel, though the Camel-drivers kept a heavy clutter, crying that I spoil'd their Camel, for they would have had me sit after the Turkish manner, as all the rest did.

Next day Tuesday the twenty sixth of March, we parted from Bulbeys at one a Clock after Noon, and came to lodge at Corede, where we arrived at eight in the Evening, and we parted from thence next day,

Wednesday the twenty seventh of March at Noon, and at eight a Clock in the Evening we came to Salahia;* 1.244 there are very pleasant Woods of Tamarisks about all these places; but though all of them were good Towns and Villages, yet we lay abroad in Tents, making a little Camp, and in the Night-time Guards with Musquets were placed on all the Avenues of the Caravan, who suffered none to come in or goe out, they are payed for that, and it is a very good course to prevent being Robbed.

Next day Thursday the twenty eighth of March at Noon we parted from Salahia: and about ten a Clock at night crossed over a fair Bridge, under which runs the Water of the Mediterranean Sea, that remains on land, when that Sea makes any Inundation, (so we were told) but it is probable it may be the Sirbonite Lake.* 1.245 We travelled on till five a Clock in the morning next day, when we encamped in a place called Elbir Devedar, because of a dirty Well of salt Water that is near to it,* 1.246 for Bir in Arabick signifies a Well; the Beasts are watered there, but such as have not provided them∣selves of fresh Water, know what it is to want it at that place.

We parted from thence the same day, Friday the twenty ninth of March about noon, and betwixt three and four of the Clock we found upon the Road a Well called Bir like the former, but continued traveling till nine a Clock at night,* 1.247 when we arrived at Catie, where we rested the next day, being Saturday the thirtieth of March, because of the Jews, who do not travel on Saturday, and there being a good many of them in the Caravan, they had credit enough with the master of the Caravan to obtain this. Catie is a Village where there is indeed a well of water, that is not indeed salt, but still unpleasant for drinking, as being very sweetish; but two miles from Catie there is a well of Water, which is good after that it hath stood a little: at Catie we ate fresh Fish half as long as ones Arm, as broad and thick as Carpes, and of as good a rellish; they did not cost us a Maidin or five farthings a piece.

* 1.248Saturday after noon the Cachef of Catie pressed our Camels th fetch wood from the Sea-side, which is but a little way off, and they did not come back till the next day, Sunday at One a clock in the Morning, which hindred us from Parting from Catie till the day after. The Cachef of Catie sent for me, to shew me some Books; he had got a great many Latin and

French Books of Physick and Chirurgery, that had belonged to a Dutch Chi∣rurgeon, who died there some Months before, as he was coming from Caire with the Caravan, which the Cachef signified by Letter to the French Con∣sul at Caire; he told me that he had a Chest full of them: he shewed me also holy Sepulchres, and other such Relicks of the same Dutch-mans, and gave me some of them; having afterward treated me with Coffee, he asked me wherein he could serve me; I thanked him heartily for his civility, and being returned to my Tent, made up a Box of Raisins, Almonds, and such other Fruits, (which are there a great Treat) and presented it to him.

We parted from Catie Monday the first of April at nine a clock in the Morning, and four Turks armed with Muskets and Shables, waited on us as a guard to Riche, because we were afraid to be set upon by the Arabs. About two a clock we found a shallow and narrow but very long Pit full of very white Salt,* 1.249 and they assured us that that Salt was made only by the Rain-water, the sand of that place having such vertue, as being without doubt very Salt, and the like is to be seen in Alexandria.* 1.250 We came to Birlab about ten a Clock at night, which is a Desart without any Hibitation, but hath three wells of Salt-water.

We set out from thence next day Tuesday the second of April, about ten a Clock in the morning, and about noon came to a well of good fresh water lately made by a Sangiac of Aegypt, for all Travellers:* 1.251 About six a clock at night we arrived at a place called Bir Acat, which is also in the Desart, having neither habitation nor water to water Beasts; and all these ways are full of Quick-Sands.

We lay there, and parted on Wednesday the third of April, about six a clock in the Morning, and about one of the clock at noon we found a Well called Sibil el bar Acat, newly made by an Aga, who passed that way a little before on his Journey to Constantinople. (Sibil signifies a place where all may have water for God's sake.) This Well is covered with a Dome, supported by four walls of free-stone, built square; the entry into it is by two Doors over against one ano∣ther, but one must first ascend four or five steps. The Cistern is covered all over with free-stone, except in two round places, big enough to let a Bucket down, by which the water is drawn that rises pretty high, half a fathom of Rope being sufficient to reach it. This Aga left a fond to main∣tain some Arabs, who daily bring thither so many Camels laded with fresh Water, which they take at a place near the Sea. Having there made a provision of Water, we entered again into the Quick-Sands,* 1.252 which lasted as far as Riche, where we arrived about four in the Afternoon. A quarter of an hour before we got there, we were overtaken by a Storm, which lasted above thirty hours. Riche is a Village not far distant from the Sea, it hath a Castle well built of little Rock-Stones, as all the Houses are; and the Cachef of it, as well as he of Zaka, depends on the Cachef of Catie.* 1.253 They have so many lovely ancient Marble-Pillars at Riche, that their Coffee-Houses and wells are made of them, and so are their Burying-places full.

We parted from Riche, Thursday the fourth of April, about one a clock at noon, having eight Turks with us, who guarded us to Cauniones,* 1.254 for fear of the Arabs. An hour after we parted from Riche we found a Sibil of Salt Water. We still travelled on through Quick-Sands, though it blew very hard, Rained, Thundered and Lightened, and about midnight came to Zaka which is in the Desart, without any Habitation, but has only three Wells of bad Water, and yet the Corsairs come often there to take in fresh Water.

Friday the fifth of April the Wind after a great deal of Rain calming, we parted from Zaka about nine a Clock in the Morning, and travelled in good way; a little after twelve of the Clock we found three fair Marble-Pillars, two standing, and one lying along upon the ground, and a little after a large Well of good Water, where there are Sakis, there we began to see a very pleasant Countrey, and some Corn-Land: sometime after we found a Sibil of bitter Water, which is close by Cauniones, where we arrived about three in the Afternoon: they have so many Marble-Pillars there also, that their Coffe-Houses stand all upon such. There we began to see

abundance of Trees, and a great deal of good Meadow ground; and indeed, both the Cattel and Inhabitants of that Place, from the biggest to the least are extreamly Fat. There is a very fair Castle there, with a large open place in it. The Turks lodge in the Castle, where there is a Saki of very good Water, and the Moors and Felas live in the Houses without. This Castle is commanded by a Muteferaca, who has but a small number of Soldiers with him in it; he depends immediately on Caire, from whence he has his pay, and his Soldiers are payed by the Cachef of Catie; Cauniones is in Aegypt, which here ends.

We parted from Cauniones on Saturday the sixth of April, before five in the Morning, guarded by seven or eight Turks of the Place; who went with us to Gaza, for fear of the Arabs. About six a clock we found a Sibil of bitter Water, and about seven another better; a little after, we discovered the Town of Gaza: half an hour after eight we found a Bridge, under which runs the water of the Meadows, which are very spacious, and at the end of that Bridge there is a well of good Water; the Countrey abounds in fair Cattle, and all sorts of Fruit-Trees: about an hour after we found two Sibils not far distant from one another, and about half an hour after ten, we arrived at Gaza, where we Encamped near the Castle, in a little Burying-place walled about.

CHAP. XXXVI. Of the Cities of Gaza and Rama, and our arrival at Jerusalem.

* 1.255THE City of Gaza is about two miles from the Sea, and was anciently very Illustrious, as may be seen by its Ruines, for you have Marble-Pillars every where, and I have seen Burying-places there, where the Tombs were wholly made of Marble; among others, there is one enclosed with a wall, which belongs to some particular Turkish Family, and is full of lovely Sepulchres, made of large pieces of excellent Marble, which are the remains and evidences of the ancient splendour of that Town: It was one of the five Lordships of the Philistins,* 1.256 to which Samson did so much hurt, nay, and one day carried away upon his Shoulders the Gates of this City, and left them upon a little hill at a miles distance. The Castle is near the Town, and is round, with a Tower at each corner, four in all; it is kept in good order, and has but a small circumference, but two Iron-Gates. Hard by this Castle is the Serraglio of the Basha's Wives, and joining to it above, some pieces of old wall, of a matter so compact that it cannot be broken with a Hammer; it is the ruines of the Castle of the Romans. The Town is but very little, it hath a Bezestein in very good order, and a pretty large Greek Church, whereof the arched Roof in the middle is supported by two great Pillars of Marble, with their Corinshes of the Corinthian order; they say, that our Lady was three days there, when she fled into Aegypt: The Arme∣nians have a Church there also. Near to the Castle of Gaza behind the Burying-place, (where we Encamped) is the place where the Palace of the Philistins stood, which Samson pulled down, Smothering himself and all that were within it; it is now no more but a heap of Earth. Without the Town there are several goodly Mosques, all faced with Marble on the out∣side, and I beleive they were places that belonged all to the ancient City. From Caire till we came thither we found no Wine, but there we had some pretty good, wherewith we provided ourselves, and might have had pretty good Brandy too, if we had had occasion. We stayed at Gaza all Sunday

the seventh of April, waiting for the Jews, who had stopp'd to celebrate their Sabbath at Cauniones.

On Monday morning when we thought of parting, the Basha put a stop to it, who having had intelligence that the master of the Caravan carried money for some Jews in Jerusalem, (who were his Debtors) would needs pay himself with it.

The matter being taken up, we parted from Gaza Tuesday the ninth of April, at six a Clock in the Morning, with some Turks for a Convoy; about nine a Clock we passed over a very high and broad Bridge, but of one single Arch, which has at the higher end a Sibil joining to it, and another a little beyond it; about half an hour after ten we found another Sibil, and about eleven, two high-ways,* 1.257 of which leaving to the left hand the one that at a hundred paces distance passes through a Village called Megdel, we took the right hand way, at the entry into which we found a Sibil, and at noon another, besides these, there are a great many Birques upon the Road.* 1.258 At three a Clock in the Afternoon we arrived at Hhansedoud, travelling all the way from Gaza thither in a lovely plain full of Corn, Trees and Flowers, which yielded a rare good smell.* 1.259 This Plain is all embroadered with Tulips and Emonies, when the season is, but then it was past; and these Flowers would be reckoned beautiful in France. Hhansedoud is a pitiful Village, where there is a Han for Caravans, built of small Free-stone, and the doors faced with Iron, but we went not into it, because we would make no stay, designing to make up our Mondays journey which we lost at Gaza, and therefore we encamped upon a little height about two hundred paces beyond the Village, from whence we parted the same day, Tuesday the ninth of April, at nine a clock at night, and at one a clock in the morning passed a Village called Yebna, at the end of which we crossed over a Bridge that is very broad; about half an hour after three we found a lovely large well, and a Sibil close by it, as a little farther another.

Wednesday, the tenth of April, about four of the clock in the morning,* 1.260 we arrived at Rama, called in Arabick Ramla; we went not into it, because we had no mind to lye there, but encamped in a Plain over against the Town, and then went to the Town to see the French Merchants that live there. Rama is a Town depending on the Basha of Gaza, and therein is the House of Nicomedes,* 1.261 where some French Merchants and their Chaplain live. In the same House, there is a pretty Church; and it is the House where the Franks who are on Pil∣grimage lodge, when they pass through Rama: The Door of that House is not three foot high, and so are all the Doors in the Town, to hinder the Arabs from entering into their Houses on Horse-back. The Church of the Forty Martyrs is also in this Town, and hath a very high square Steeple, which in times past was as high again. Heretofore there was a stately large Convent there, of which the Cloyster seems still to be very entire, by what we could observe in passing by the Gate, for we were told that Christians were not per∣mitted to enter it. There is another Church there also, dedicated to the Honour of St. George.

We parted from Rama on Thursday, the eleventh of April, at six of the clock in the morning, and a little after came to a stony way, which grew worse and worse all along till we came to our Lodging. About nine of the clock, we saw to the right hand the Village of the Good Thief,* 1.262 called in Arabick Beth∣lakij; after that we paid the Caffaire, and took a Guard as far a Jerusalem; before we came to that Village, we found two Ways, of which that which is the good Way is on the right hand, and passes through the Village; and the other is on the left hand, which we took, to avoid a Caffaire, but it led us among Hills in very bad Way, and at length we encamped amidst the Mountains about half an hour after two in the afternoon, in a place close by a ruinous old Building, which heretofore was a Convent of Franciscan Friers; there are still some Arches standing, and many others under ground, wherein at present the Arabs put their Cows. Near to it, there is a Spring of very good Water issuing out of a Rock, which perhaps was formerly enclosed within the Convent.

Friday, the twelfth of April, about five of the clock in the morning, we parted from that place, and about seven were got out from among the Hills, which last about six or seven miles, and are all covered with very thick Woods, and a great many Flowers in Pasture-ground. After that, we travelled in pretty good Plains, though there be many Stones in the way. About eight of the clock,* 1.263 we saw to the right hand a Village, called in Arabick Dgib, which was heretofore the Town of Samuel; it stands upon an Eminence, and in it there is a Mosque covered with a Dome; they say Samuel is interred there, and the Jews visite it out of Devotion. About half an hour after nine, we discovered a little on the right hand the beginning of the Holy City of Jeru∣salem,* 1.264 called by the Turks Coudscherif, and after about a quarter of an hours travelling, we saw it plainly before us, and arrived there after ten a clock in the morning, but we who were Franks stay'd at the Gates of the City till the Religious sent for us. When he had waited about an hour at the Gate, which is called Damascus-Gate, we were introduced into the City by the Trucheman of the Convent, who came with a Turk belonging to the Basha, that visited our Baggage; for if a Frank entered the Town of Jerusalem before the Reli∣gious had obtained a permission for him from the Basha, he would have an Avanie put upon him. They led us to the Convent of St. Saviour, where the Monks live, and where after we had dined, we were shew'd into an Appartment to rest ourselves. This is a very commodious Convent both for the Religious and Pilgrims.* 1.265 About three of the clock in the afternoon, a Monk came and washed our Feet with warm water, and at four, we were conducted to the Church, where after the Compline, the Reverend Father Commissary, (for at that time there was no Guardian there) attended by all the Monks and Pilgrims that were in the Convent, making us sit down on a Couch of crimson Velvet, washed the Feet of us four, one after another, in Water full of Roses, then kissed them, as after him did all his Monks, singing in the mean time many Hymns and Anthems. When this Ceremony was over, they gave to each of us a white Wax-taper, which they told us we should carefully keep, because they carried great Indulgences with them; and then we made a Procession about the Cloyster, singing Te Deum laudamus, to thank God for the favour he had shew'd us, in bringing us sound and safe to that Holy Place: They made us perform the Stations at three Altars, to wit, at the High Altar, dedicated to the Holy Ghost, at the Altar of our Lord's Supper, and at the Altar of our Lord's appearing after his Resurrection to the Apostle St. Thomas, singing at every one of these Altars, the proper Hymns for the places.

CHAP. XXXVII. The first visiting of the Dolorous Way, and other Holy Places.

I Shall not much enlarge in describing the Holy Places, because I can say nothing of them, but what hath been already said by so many who have visited them, and especially by Monsieur Opdan, who hath lately published a Book, wherein all the Holy Places are very well, and as fully as they can be described: I shall therefore only speak of them as a Traveller, and observe them in the order I saw them in.

The day we arrived, we stirred not out of the Convent, but next day after, the thirteenth of April, which was the Saturday before Palm-Sunday, we went out of the Convent about eight of the clock in the morning,* 1.266 with the Father who takes care of the Pilgrims, to begin our Visites of the Holy Places, and first we passed near to the Judgment-Gate, through which our Saviour went

out bearing his Cross, when he went to Mount Calvary; and it is called the Judgment-Gate, because those that were condemned to Death, went out of the City by it, to the place of Execution; at present it is within the City. Having advanced a few steps, we saw on our right hand the House of Veronica,* 1.267 who seeing our Saviour coming loaded with his Cross, and his Face besmeared with Sweat and Spittle, went out of her House, and having made way through the Croud, took a white Veil off of her Head, and therewith wiped our Lord's Face, who in testimony of his thankfulness for that charitable office, left the Image of his Holy Face stamped upon her Veil, which is shewn in St. Peter's, at Rome, four times a year: There are four Steps up to the Door of this House. Next to that, on the right hand, is the House of the Rich Glutton; then on the left,* 1.268 the place where our Saviour said to the Women of Jerusalem who wept, Weep not for me, but for you and your Children. A little after, is the place where Simon the Cyrenean helpt our Lord to carry his Cross, when he fell down under that heavy burthen. Then on the right hand is the place of the Blessed Virgin's Trance, who fainted away when she saw our Lord bearing his Cross, and so spightfully used. Proceeding on our way, about an hundred paces farther, we passed under the Arch upon which Pilate set our Lord, saying, Behold the man; it is a large Arch, reaching from one side of the street to the other:* 1.269 This Arch hath two Windows that look into the street, which are separated only by a little Marble Pillar: Under these Windows, is this Inscription, Tolle, Tolle, Crucifige eum. Beyond that Arch, at the end of a street on the left hand, is the Palace of Herod, where our Lord was cloathed with a white Robe in derision, and sent back to Pilate, with whom Herod being formerly at variance, was that day reconciled. Leaving that street on the left hand after a few steps, you come to the Palace of Pilate on the right hand,* 1.270 which is at present inhabited by the Basha: The Stairs of that Palace are to be seen at Rome, near to St. John de Latran, being sent thither by St. Helen; they are at present called Scala Sancta, because our Lord ascended them,* 1.271 when he was led before Pilate, and came down again the same Stairs, to go before Herod; then being sent back by Herod, he went them up again, and afterwards descended them when he went to execution. In place of that Stair-case, there is another of eleven steps, which are now sufficient, because since that time the Street is much raised by the Ruines. Having gone up these eleven steps, you come into a Court, and turning to the Left Hand, you enter into the Basha's Kitchin, which is the place where Pilate washed his Hands; in that Kitchin there is a Window that looks into the Court, or open place that is before the Temple of Salomon, from that Window we saw the Front of the said Temple, at one end of the Court; there are several Arches that make a lovely Porch before the Door of the said Temple, supported by several fair Pillars. There is a hole in that Kitchin, which serves at present to lay Coals in, and is thought to have been the Prison into which our Lord was put. Heretofore there was a passage from this Palace to the Arch of Behold the Man, (that we mentioned before.) Coming out of the Palace, we went over to the other side of the Street, into a Chappel, called the Place of Flagellation,* 1.272 because our Saviour was Scourged there; the Turks make use of it at present for a Stable. In that place ends (according to the way we went) or rather begins the Dolorous Way, which reaches from the House of Pilate, to Mount Cal∣vary, about a Mile in length. Having seen these things, (to avoid the heat) we resolved to see the most distant places before the Sun were too high; and therefore went out by St. Stephen's Gate, anciently called Porta Gregis,* 1.273 or the Sheep-Gate, without which, we saw the place where the Blessed Virgin let her Girdle fall to St. Thomas, when he saw her Body and Soul carried up to Hea∣ven; then we went up to the Mount of Olives,* 1.274 in the middle whereof is the place where our Lord wept over Jerusalem, foreseeing its future Ruine: The truth is, one has a very good view of it from that place, and may at leisure there consider all the external beauties of the Temple of Salomon, as also the Church of the Presentation of our Lady, which joyns the said Temple, and is magnificently built. Here it was that the Blessed Virgin was by her Father and Mother presented to the good Widdows, who lived near to the Temple, and taught young Girls Breeding and good Manners. The Turks have con∣verted

this Church into a Mosque, and suffer no Christian to enter into it. On the top of the Mount is the place of Ascension,* 1.275 which is a Chappel with eight Fronts, having a little Dome covered with Lead, and supported by eight Pillars of white Marble; in this Chappel you may still see the print of our Saviour's Left Foot on the Rock, the impression of the other was also there, but the Turks cut off part of the Rock, on which the other Foot was imprin∣ted, and have carried it into the Temple of Salomon, where they preserve it very honourably, as they do this; nay, they have a little Mosque in this Chap∣pel, and they suffer Christians to come and kiss that holy Foot-step, for a few Maidins. In this place a Gentleman enflamed with the love of God, and desi∣rous to follow Jesus Christ, whose Steps he had traced so far, yielded up his Soul to the Lord.* 1.276 A little below this place we saw the Grott, where St. Pelagia a famous Courtizan of Antioch did Penance; then coming down again, we passed by the place where our Lord made the Prayer, (which we call the Lord's Prayer) and a little lower to the Right, the place where he Preached the last Judgment, for a Memorial of which, there stands a Pillar there. Afterwards we came to a Grott or Church,* 1.277 wherein are twelve Arches, in this place it was that the Apostles made the Creed, which goes by their Name, and then to the Burying-place of the Prophets, where there are many Grotts cut out in the Rock. Next we saw two square Sepulchres, each square cut out of the Rock in one entire piece; the one is of Absolom, the Son of David, and it is encompassed with several Pillars cut out of the natural Rock, and covered with a Pyramide: The other is the Sepulchre of Jehosaphat, who gave the name to the Valley; others say it is the Sepulchre of King Manasses. Abso∣loms is easily known, by the many Stones that are always there, because no Body goes near to it, whether Christian, Turk, or Moor, Man, Woman, or Child, but throws a stone at it, as detesting the memory of that Prince, be∣cause of his Rebellion against his own Father. Then we saw the Grott where St. James the younger hid himself when our Saviour was taken, and continu∣ed there without eating or drinking, until the Resurrection. Being come out from thence,* 1.278 we saw the Sepulchre of the Prophet Zacharias, the Son of Bara∣chias, who was slain betwixt the Porch and the Altar, by the command of King Joas: It is cut in a Diamond-point upon the Rock, with many Pillars about it.* 1.279 From thence we came to the place where the Brook Kedron runs, which is many times dry, without water, as it was then, and there we saw a Bridge hard by, of one Arch, under which that Brook passes when there is any water in it; and upon that Bridge our Saviour fell, when after his apprehen∣sion in the Garden, the Jews brought him into the City, using him so barba∣rously, that as he went over that Bridge, they threw him down from the top to the bottom, and in the stone the prints of his Feet and Elbows are to be seen. Having narrowly observed these Holy prints, and passed the Brook dry-shod, we came to the Valley of Jehosaphat,* 1.280 which is about a League in length, but not very broad; it serves as a Ditch to the City of Jerusalem. The Jews give a Chequin a day for permission to bury their Dead there, besides what they pay for the Ground, and all, that they may be the sooner dispatched at the day of Judgment;* 1.281 because (as they believe) it will be held in that place. There we saw the Garden of Olives, and entring it, we came to the same place where our Lord having been kissed by Judas, was taken by the Jews; it is a very little narrow place, enclosed with a pitiful Wall. Afterwards we came to the place where the three Apostles, St. Peter, St. James and St. John the Evangelist, fell asleep whilst our Saviour Prayed, which made Him say to them, Cannot you watch one Hour with me? Then to the Garden of Bethsemanie, where our Saviour left the Eight Apostles, when He went to Pray in the Garden of Olives, taking only Three with him; to wit, St. Peter, St. James and St. John.* 1.282 At present the Garden of Bethsemanie, makes but one with the Gar∣den of Olives. The Grott where our Lord sweat Blood and Water, saying, Father, if Thou be willing, remove this Cup from Me. And where the Angel came to comfort him, is Painted since the time of St. Helen, and receives light by an opening in the middle of the Vault,* 1.283 which is supported by four Pillars. Near to that is the Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary, which is a Church almost under Ground, of which nothing but the Front is to be seen. It stands at the

entry into the Valley of Jehosophat, pretty near St. Stephen's Gate. In the first place, you go down by six steps into a Court or Walk, and crossing over that, descend One and fifty very large broad steps, at the top whereof on the right Hand, there is a Door walled up. In the middle of this Stair-case there is a Chappel on the Right Hand,* 1.284 wherein are the Sepulchres of St. Joachin and St. Ann; on the other side, to wit, to the Left Hand there is a little Chappel, where are the Sepulchres of St. Joseph (the Virgins Husband) and St. Simeon. Towards the bottom of the Stairs, there is a place on the Left Hand, adorned, but no body can tell for what; for there is nothing to be seen in it but the Floor, which is all of Mosaical Work, and looks as if it were newly done. At the end of the steps, to the Right Hand, there is an Altar of the Arme∣nians, and a lovely Cistern to the Left; behind which there is an Altar of the Abyssins. After that you come into the Church, wherein turning to the Right Hand, you see the Sepulchre of the Virgin,* 1.285 which is almost in the middle of the Church, in a little square Chappel, four Paces long, with two little Doors to enter into it. The length of the place on which her Body was put is nine Spans, the breadth four, and the height as much. It is covered with a Stone of a greyish Marble, with Veins in it, and in some places is broken. This Chappel belongs to the Latin Monks, and none but Latins can say Mass there, which is Celebrated every Saturday; behind that place there is a Chappel be∣longing to the Greeks. On the Right Hand of the Virgins Sepulchre, there is a Turkish Mosque, and on the Left a Chappel of the Jacobites. This Church is pretty dark, receiving no light but by the Door, and a Window that is over the Altar of the Greek Chappel. There are One and twenty Lamps in this Church. Near to it is the place where the Virgin seeing St. Stephen stoned,* 1.286 prayed to God to grant him constancy enough to suffer that Martyrdom; and next to it, the place where that Saint was stoned. Being after this come into the City by St. Stephen's Gate, we saw pretty near to that Gate the Sheep-Pool, close by which is the Temple of Salomon. Then we came to the House of St. Ann, the Mother of the Virgin. St. Helen built a Church over this House, which was served by Nuns, but the Turks have since turned it into a Mosque; and nevertheless, Christians are permitted to enter into it, for a few Maidins, which they give to the Santo that keeps it. There is a lovely Cloyster still to be seen there, by which one goes down to the House of St. Ann, which is under the Church: It hath two Rooms, in one of which there is an Altar in the place where the Blessed Virgin was Born. After we had seen all these things, we returned to the Convent, at eleven a Clock in the Morning.

CHAP. XXXVIII. Our first Entry into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

WHen we had Dined in the Convent, we made ready to go to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and that very Evening entred into it, pay∣ing Four and twenty Piastres a piece;* 1.287 for all Franks are Taxed at so much for the first time they go into it, but the Religious pay only Twelve, as also when one hath been once in, he may enter it again as often as it is opened, giving a Maidin to the Turks who keep the Door. Before you enter into this Church, you must pass over a large open place that is before it, and Paved with fair broad Free-stone, which the Jews dare not tread upon.* 1.288 Then you see the Steeple, which is on the left-side corner of the Front of the Church, and looks great; it is square, and on all sides has three stories of Windows, two in front, separated and supported by two Marble-Pillars; and heretofore

there were eighteen Bells in it.* 1.289 After that, you come to the Door of the Church, which is stately and Magnificent; having over it many Figures in Bass-Relief, representing several sacred Histories. This Door is always shut, and sealed up with the Basha's Seal, unless when some Pilgrims or Religious Persons are to enter into it, and then the Turks open it, and immediately shut it again. There are three holes in this Door, two whereof are but small, and made on purpose that they who are within may speak through them to those that are without, and the third bigger to let in Victuals to such as stay within; but there is a Bar of Iron cross it, to hinder any from entring in that way, there is another Door close by this, but it is Walled up. Betwixt these two Doors there is a kind of Stone-bench, where the Turks that keep the Door sit. So soon as we were within the Church of St. Sepulchre, we went to the Chappel of the Apparition,* 1.290 so called, because they say our Lord appear∣ed first in that place to the Blessed Virgin his Mother, immediately after his glorious Resurrection. Here the Monks put themselves and the Pilgrims in order of Procession, every Monk had a Wax-Taper given him, and a Book containing proper Prayers for every station. We began our Procession before the Pillar of Flagellation,* 1.291 and having there sung the Prayers proper for that station, we went two and two to the Prison of our Lord, where the proper Prayers for that place were sung; then to the Chappel of the parting of his Garments. We next went down to the Chappel of St. Helen, and from thence (without stopping) to the Chappel of the Invention of the Cross; having there sung the Prayers, we came up again to the Chappel of St. Helen, where having made the station,* 1.292 we ascended into the Church again, and there went to the Chappel of Exprobration, from thence to Mount Calvary, where having performed our station, we came down again from that holy place, and went to the Stone of the Ʋnction,* 1.293 then to the holy Sepulchre, and turned thrice round it; then entred into it, and having there (as in all other places) sung the proper Prayers for the place, we returned to the Chappel of the Ap∣parition, where we made the last station before the holy Sacrament, and there we ended our Procession, by the Litanies of the Blessed Virgin. When that was over, every one had liberty to go and perform his Devotions where he pleased, and view all the works and corners of that Church; of which I shall give a little Description hereafter.

Next day being Palm-Sunday, the fourteenth of April, every one of us recei∣ved a Palm Branch, blessed upon the holy Sepulchre, from the hand of the reverend Father Commissary, who afterwards sung a Mass upon an Altar made on purpose before the holy Sepulchre; we had there a Monk, who played upon a little Organ, purposely brought thither, which exceedingly delighted all the Turks, and Oriental Christians, who much wondered, how by the motion of the Fingers, one could make so sweet an Harmony. At the end of Mass, we all received the Communion, from the hands of the reverend Father Com∣missary, and then went to Dinner in the Convent of St. Saviour.

CHAP. XXXIX. Of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

BEfore I leave these holy Places, I must (according to my promise) say something of them. This Church is very spacious, the Nef or Body of it is round, and receives no Light but from the top of the Dome above, which is much like the Dome of the Rotunda at Rome. This Dome is on the out-side covered with Lead, within it is Wainscotted with Cedar Wood, which St. Helen gave for that use when she built that Church, because it rots not. The opening of the Dome is covered with a Wire Lettice, that hinders Birds from coming into the Church. In the middle of this Nef, and just un∣der the opening of the Dome, is the holy Sepulchre, but before you enter into that so holy place, you must pass over a place raised a Foot high from the Floor of the Church, there being on each side a Seat or Bank of White Mar∣ble, about two Foot and a half high, where the Religious that assist at the Celebration of the Mass of the holy Sepulchre (where none but Latins can Cele∣brate) sit. From thence you pass through the Chappel of the Angel, so called, because in that place the Angel told the three Maries, that our Lord was Risen; it is about fourteen Span long, six in breadth, and about nine Foot high. This Chappel hath not been cut out of the Rock, as that of the holy Sepulchre, but hath been built for Ornament, and joyned to the Chappel of the holy Sepulchre. In this Chappel there is a little Altar, and three little Windows, to give light to the place. Before the Door of that Chappel there is a Lamp, and seventeen Lamps within it. In the same Chappel just before, and within a Foot and a half of the Door of the holy Sepulchre, there is a square Stone cut out of the Rock, and raised about a Foot from the Ground, it served for a support to the Stone which shut the Sepulchre, and upon that Stone the Angel sat, when the three Maries came to look for the Body of our Lord. Next to that, you enter into the Chappel of the holy Sepulchre, the Door of which is three Foot high, and two Foot wide; all enter into it bare∣footed, and it is so little, that it cannot contain but three Men kneeling, and four make a great crowd. On the Right Hand as you enter, is the place where the Body of our Lord was laid, and not within it, as many believe; for in those times the Sepulchres were little Grotts cut in the Rock, wherein there was a Table of the same Rock, on which the Body was laid, and the entry into the Grott was shut with a great stone, which was supported by a little Bench cut on the out-side of the Rock. This Table is about two Foot and a half, raised from the Floor, taking up one half of the breadth, and the whole length of the said Chappel; it hath been faced with White Marble, because all the Christians that went thither, strove to have some little bit of it. It serves for an Altar to the Latin Priests who Celebrate Mass, none else being permitted to Celebrate there. This place inspires great Devotion even into the most undevout; as I found by my self. The Chappel is cut out of the Rock, and there are three holes in the Roof of it, through which the smoak of the Lamps that burn there does evaporate, there being no other opening into this place, but the three holes and Door, so that it is very hot being in it. There are four and forty Lamps in it, all sent by the Emperours, and the Kings of France and Spain. This whole place is faced within and without with White Marble, and environed on the out-side by ten lovely Pillars of White Marble, and Lamps round about it, It is covered with a Plat-form, in the middle whereof, just over the holes by which the smoak of the Lamps evaporates, there is a little Dome, about six Foot high covered with Lead, and this little Dome stands upon twelve little Pillars of the colour of Por∣phyrie, placed two and two upon the Plat-form, and so making six Arches, under every one of which hang three Lamps. When it Rains, the Water falls

through the Airie in the Dome of the Church upon this little Dome, and from thence is conveyed by a Conduit-Pipe into a hole.* 1.294 The Cophtes have built a little Chappel at the back of the Holy Sepulchre, which takes from it some∣what of its beauty. Before the door of the holy Sepulchre, at an equal distance from it and the door of the Quire, there is so vast a Lamp of Silver, that two Men can hardly fathom it about, it is pulled down and up with a Windless. The Arms of Spain are cut on it in eight places, and all round below is this Inscription, Philippus III. Rex Hispaniarum me donavit. The Turks have many times had a great mind to take this Lamp, and send it to Mecha. Just before the door of the holy Sepulchre,* 1.295 is the Quire of the Church, which belongs to the Greeks, and is encompassed with great Pillars, and shut in with Walls; it is covered with a Dome of Free-stone all close, and rough Cast on the out-side. This Quire hath three doors, to wit, one over against the entry into the holy Sepulchre, and one on each side towards the High Altar: There are several Lamps in it, and a very neat Candlestick of Copper shaped like a Crown, sent by a Duke of Moscovy for the holy Sepulchre, but seeing there was no room for it there, it was given to the Greeks, who hung it up with Iron chains towards the door of the Quire within; it can hold sixty four Tapers, and a great many Lamps, Under this Candlestick, there is a Marble-stone in the Pavement, in which there is a little hole, and the Oriental Christians say it is the Middle of the World,* 1.296 because it is said in Holy Scripture, that God wrought salvation in the midst of the earth, Psal. 74. Before the door of this Quire, there is an Altar, which serves only for a refuge to the Patriarch, when he flies thither, and gets up upon it after he hath lighted his Tapers at the Holy Fire, that he may not be stifled in the croud.* 1.297 The Nef or Body is round (as I said already) and is supported all about by a great many Pillars, that make as it were a low Gallery. Behind these Pillars, all round the Church, the Oriental Christians have made their Lodgings. The same Pillars and Columns bear a second story in form of a Gallery, that ranges round the Church: Upon this Gallery there are several other Pillars, which support the rest of the Church, and make as it were several Windows to this Gallery, over which there are some Mosaical Pictures representing the Prophets, Apostles, St. Helen and Constantine. All that Gallery belonged to the Latin Monks, but the Armenians have so far prevailed, that they have obtained a good part of it, which they have separated by Partitions, so that one cannot now go all round. Below there are many Chappels round the Church,* 1.298 and first that of the Apparition, where the Latin Monks commonly celebrate the Service: It is so called, because it is said to be the place where our Lord appeared to his Holy Mother immediately after his Resurrection; this is a large Chappel, paved with Marble, Jaspir and Porphyrie, and always adorned with Tapistry, and furnished with Desks and Pulpits, for performing the Service honourably, where you may often see several fine Copes and Chasubes, with other Ornaments richly embroidered with Pearl, Gold and Silver, and given by the Kings of France and Spain. There are three Altars in this Chappel, two on the sides, and a third in the middle, over which there is a large Window, that gives light to the Chappel. The Altar in the middle is dedicated to the honour of the Virgin Mary; the Altar on the left hand, to the Honour of the Holy Cross, which in this place was tryed by St. Helen upon a dead Body that was raised by the touch of the Cross of our Lord, the other two having been applied to it without any effect. A piece of the same Cross was kept there for a long time, till the Armenians stole it away. The Altar on the right hand is dedicated to the honour of the Pillar of Flagellation,* 1.299 because behind this Altar a good piece of the Pillar, (to which our Saviour was tied and scourged in the house of Pilate) is kept in a window made in the Wall, and secured by an Iron Grate; it is easily seen, but no body can touch it, and is betwixt two and three foot high. The Lodgings of the Monks are behind the aforesaid Chappel of the Apparition, from whence there is a way up to the Gallery above, wherein there are little Chambers made for Pilgrims; some Monks always lodge and are shut up there for some time, not only for taking care of the Lamps, but also for performing the Office, who at a Month or two Months end are relieved, and others put in their place; it being impossible for any to live long there withou falling sick for

want of Air. Stepping down three steps from the Chappel of Apparition into the Church, before the door of the said Chappel you find two round Marble-stones set in the Pavement,* 1.300 one of which marks the place where our Lord was when he appeared to Mary Magdalen, and is called the Stone of Noli me tangere, (Touch me not,) and over it there is a large Silver Lamp kept burning; the other shews the place where Mary was, who would have advan∣ced and embraced our Lord, but our Saviour thrusting her back, said to her, Touch me not, and there are two Silver Lamps over this Stone. Then on the left hand, you find a little Chappel taken out of the Wall, dedicated to the honour of St. Mary Magdalen,* 1.301 because that close by that place our Lord appeared to her in the likeness of the Gardener, as I have just now said; but seeing there is no Mystery in that Chappel, it is left without any Lamp, nay without any Cross too: It belongs to the Nestorians or Jacobites, and is railed in. After that, you find a little Court, where the Necessary Places are;* 1.302 then the Chappel of our Lord's Prison, which is a very little and dark place, where (they say) our Saviour was put, while they were digging a hole in Mount Calvary to plant his Cross in; you must go down to it by three steps. The Vault of this Chappel is supported by two Pillars, and it belongs to the Greeks, who keep a burning Lamp there. Near to that Chappel there is an Altar, supported by two Stone-Pillars, and before it there are two holes in the Pave∣ment, where (they say) our Saviour's Feet were put, as in the Stocks: The Oriental Christians pass willingly betwixt the Wall and the Pillars, though the passage be very narow, because all but Bastards can go through that way, and I have seen big bellied Woman pass through it with much pain, and the danger of destroying their Foetus; there are two Lamps before this Altar. After that, you see another obscure Chappel,* 1.303 wherein (they say) the Inscription on the Cross of our Lord was long kept, and is now at Rome, in the Church of Holy Cross, In Atrio Selleriano: This Chappel belongs to the Abyssins. Then you come to the Chappel of the Parting of the Garments, behind the middle part of the Quire, which is so called, because it is the place where the Soldiers cast Lots for our Saviour's Garments, and divided them among them: This Chappel belongs to the Armenians. A little farther, there is a Door, by which you enter upon a very large pair of Stairs of thirty Stone-steps, upon which there are four Lamps, and five at the foot of the Stairs, where you find the Chappel of St. Helen; and leaving it to the left hand, after you have descended eleven steps more, cut out in the Rock of Mount Calvary, you come to the Chappel of the Invention of the Cross:* 1.304 This is but a little place cut out of the Rock, and there it was that the Cross of our Lord, the Nails, Crown of Thorns, Inscription on the Cross, and the Head of the Lance were found: This place was heretofore a Ditch at the foot of Mount Calvary, called by the Prophet Jeremiah, The Valley of the dead bodies, Jer. 31.* 1.305 whereinto those who were put to Death, with the Instruments of their Execution, were cast: It belongs to the Latins and Greeks, for there are two Altars in it, of which that of the Crucifix on the left hand (which is the very place where the Cross of our Lord was found) belongs to the Latin Monks, and there are twelve Lamps before it; the other on the right hand belongs to the Greeks,* 1.306 and at it there are thirteen Lamps. In this place one may easily see the Cleft of the Rock that clove asunder when our Lord yielded up the Ghost. Being come up again the eleven Steps that are cut in the Rock, you see the Chappel of St. Helen, which is spacious; it hath a Dome, supported by four great Pillars of white Marble, which (the Christians of the Countrey say) weep for the Death of our Lord, because the damp∣ness of the place keeps them always moist: There are two Altars in that Chappel, one of which is very large, and all of Marble, having eighten Lamps before it; the other is to the left hand, and hath eight Lamps before it. In that Chappel also on the right hand, near the great Altar, there is a Marble-Chair, of an Antick Form, and Engrav'd, wherein that Holy Empress sate, while they searched for the Cross of our Lord below: That Chappel belongs to the Armenians. Having come up again the thirty Steps, you turn to the left,* 1.307 and find the Chappel of Exprobration, shut in with a wooden Lettice; in this Chappel there is an Altar supported by two Pillars, and under it the said Pillar of Exprobration, about two foot high; it is of greyish Marble, and may be seen through an Iron-Grate

that shuts it in: It is called the Pillar of Exprobration, because that after the Soldiers had buffeted our Lord, they made him sit down in Pilate's Hall upon that Pillar, then crowned him with Thorns, and mocked him, saying, Hail King of the Jews: This Chappel belongs to the Abyssins, and has five Lamps in it. Having passed this Chappel, you come to a narrow Stair-case, of which the first Steps are of wood, and the rest cut in the Rock, being nineteen in all; where after you have put off your Shoes, you come upon Mount Calvary, upon which there are two Chappels separated by a Pillar that supports the Roof, and so divides them, that one may still go from the one into the other: These two Chappels are adorned with Marble, and the first of them, which is on the left hand as you enter, is the place where the Cross of our Lord was planted; and in the middle of a neat Table of white Marble, in form of an Altar, which is about ten foot long, seven foot broad, and two foot raised from the floor,* 1.308 is the hole wherein the Cross of our Lord was fixed; this hole is round, a large half foot in diametre, two foot deep, and has a Silver-Plate about it, on which the Mysteries of the Passion are embossed; the Christians thrust their Arms into this hole, and have their Chaplets touched there. On our Saviour's right hand, about five foot distant from him, was the Cross of the Good Thief; and on our Lord's left hand, six foot distant, that of the Wicked Thief: These three Grosses were not in a streight line, but made a kind of triangle, our Lord standing more backward; so that he could easily see the two Thieves. Where these two Crosses stood, there are at present two little Marble-Pillars, and Crosses upon them. Betwixt the hole where the Cross of our Lord was placed, and the Cross of the Wicked Thief, is the Cleft of the Rock that was rent; it is a foot wide, and covered with a Wire-Lettice: This Chappel belongs to the Greeks, and there are in it eight and and forty Lamps, and two Candlesticks of twelve branches a piece: Near to the Cross of the Good Thief, there is a Door by which the Greeks go into the Quire that belongs to them, and into their Lodgings. The other Chappel is called the Chappel of Crucifixion,* 1.309 because in that place our Lord was laid upon the Cross, and had his Hands and Feet pierced and nailed to it, from whence he was carried to the place where the Cross was set up in the hole about six foot distant: This Chappel is covered all over with Mosaick Work, and upon the Pavement in the middle thereof, there is a place marked with Marble of several colours, and that is the very place where our Lord was Cruci∣fied and shed much Blood, when his Feet and Hands were pierced: This Chap∣pel belongs to the Latin Monks, and has two Altars, before which are sixteen Lamps, and a Candlestick of twelve branches. Near to that, there is another Chappel, where (they say) the Blessed Virgin and St. John were, while they Crucified our Lord, and heretofore there was a Door to enter into it, but at present there is no more but a Window with a Grate, and the entry into it is without the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Going down the way you come up,* 1.310 you come to the Chappel of our Lady of Pity, which is under Mount Calvary, where are the Tombs of Godfrey of Boulloin and his Brother Baldowin, Kings of Jerusalem; that of Godfrey of Boulloin is on the right hand as you enter the Chappel, it is made with a ridged Roof, supported by four Stone-Pillars, bearing this Epitaph Engrav'd on the Marble in Gothick Characters, Hic jacet inclytus Dux Godefridus, qui totam istam terram acquisivit cultui Christiano, cujus anima regnet cum Christo, Amen. And Baldowin's Tomb is on the left hand, but all of white Marble, supported also by four little Stone-Pillars, with this Epitaph, Rex Baldewinus Judas alter Machabaeus, spes Patriae, vigor Ecclesiae, virtus utriusque, quem formidabant, cui dona tributa ferebant Cedar & Aegyptus, Dan ac homicida, Damascus, proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc tumulo. At the bottom of the same Chappel on the right hand,* 1.311 there is a great Tomb of curious Porphyrian-Marble, about three foot high, which (they say) is the Monument of the High Priest Melchisedeck. Behind the Altar of this Chappel, you may see the Cleft of the Rock underneath the place where the Cross of our Lord stood, and (they say) that Adam's Skull was found in that place, from whence Mount Calvary took the Name of Golgotha, that is to say, a Dead Man's Skull, which we explain by the word Calvary: There is always a burning Lamp in that Chap∣pel, entertained by the Georgians, to whom it belongs: They say that this

Chappel is the place where the Blessed Virgin took our Lord in her arms, when he was let down from the Cross; and it is therefore called the Chappel of our Lady of Pity. As you go out of that Chappel, you see on the left hand, before the Church-Door along the Wall, four fair Sepulchres of white Marble, where the Children of Baldowin are interred,* 1.312 on one of which is this Epitaph upon well cut Marble, Septimus in tumulo puer isto Rex tumulatus est Baldewinus, regum de sanguine natus, quem tulit e mundo sors primae conditionis, & paradisiacae loca possideat regionis; but one hath much a do to read the latter part of it, because it pleased the Greeks heretofore to spoil these Tombs, that they might abolish the memory of the Western Kings, but at present they are not suffered to do it. Near to that, is the Stone of Unction,* 1.313 upon which Joseph of Aramathea anointed the Body of our Lord, after it was taken down from the Cross; it is almost seven foot long, and two foot broad, and is now covered over with greyish Marble, because the Pilgrims broke always bits off of it; it is adorned all round with a chequered border of little white and red Marble-Stones; and that no body should tread upon it (for it is but about a foot above ground) it is enclosed within an Iron-Grate, the ends of which are leaded into the Pave∣ment of the Church; and there are two Copper-Candlesticks, one at each end, leaded in in the same manner, in which the Latin Monks keep two Wax-Tapers burning: There are always eight Lamps burning over that Stone, which are entertained by all the eight Nations that are in the Holy Sepulchre, to wit, the Latins, Greeks, Abyssines, Cophtes, Armenians, Nestorians and Jacobites; but the Stone belongs to the Latins. After that, continuing to go round the Church, you come to a pair of Stairs, before which there is a round white Marble-Stone even with the Pavement, and set in it; they say that the Blessed Virgin was in that very place, when the Body of our Lord was anointed. When you have ascended that Stair-case of seven and thirty Steps, you enter into the Church of the Armenians, wherein you find nine and fifty Lamps, and two Candlesticks of sixteen branches a piece; and in the Quire there are seventy Lamps, and two Candlesticks, of six branches a piece: At the side of the Quire, there is also a Chappel, and three and forty Lamps, with a Candlestick of eight branches within it. Being come down from thence, you find the Chappel of the Abyssines; then that of the Syrians or Jacobites, which hath its entry at the back of the Holy Sepulchre, wherein are one and thirty Lamps, and at the end of it there is a Grott, in which are the two Sepulchres of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea, cut in the depth of the Rock,* 1.314 with a Lamp before each of them: This good Man, Joseph of Arimathea, having laid our Lord's Body in the Sepulchre which he had prepared for himself, caused another to be made for him, accounting himself unworthy to be laid where the Body of our Saviour had lain. Then you find a Door, by which ascending some steps, you go to the Lodgings of the Greeks, and from thence to the Chappel of the Apparition, and so you have made the whole circumference of the Church. This Church formerly belonged wholly to the Latins, but the other Christians have for Money obtained their shares in it; it is pleasant to see this Church on High Festival Days, for then it shines with an infinite number of Lamps, some red, some green, because of the water within them, to which they give what colour they please, and that especially when the Greeks and other Christians who follow the old Calendar, have Easter on the same day with us, as it happened this year: But there is a great deal of trouble with it also, for there are near four thousand Christians, who come from all Parts, and all for a Maidin a piece get into St. Sepulchres; so that then one can hardly perform his devotions well, not only because of the noise, but also because there is always a great croud of people at the Holy Places; for though every Nation have their own distinct, yet all have liberty to pay their devotions at what place they please. There you'll see some, both Men and Women, rowl upon the ground at the Holy Places, without any respect to mo∣desty: Others bring with them whole Pieces of Cloth, which they measure upon the Holy Sepulchre and Stone of Unction, and cut them in pieces accor∣ding to the length of these Sanctuaries, which serve them for Shrouds to be buried in, and all this in pure devotion. And if for more convenience you take the night-time to perform your devotions in, or the dawning of the morning,

you must step over a great many people, Men, Women and Children, lying and tumbling confusedly in the Church; besides, all these People have their Chil∣dren with them, who do their needs in the Church just where they are; for though there be a Court with Necessary-houses, yet that signifies but little for so many, insomuch that all these things together do much incommode and distract you.* 1.315 When these Christians would Ring to Office, they have pieces of Wood about a fathom long, somewhat crooked, a hand broad, and two fingers thick, which they hang by a Rope in the middle; upon this Board they knock with two pieces of Iron, which gives a sound something like to that of our Bells, and makes an horrid din, especially when several ring at the same time: Others again have a kind of Drums and other Instruments, all which together make mad Musick.

CHAP. XL. Of the Burying-places of the Kings, and of the Grott of Jeremiah.

ON Palm-Sunday after Dinner, we went out of the City by the Gate of Damascus, to go see the Burying-Places of the ancient Kings of Jerusalem, which is a rare thing. You enter first into a great Court cut out and made even in the Rock, which serves for Walls to it, and on the left hand there is a Gallery cut also out of the Rock, with several Pillars, all very much beautified with many Figures engrav'd upon the stone; at one end of this Gallery there is a little open place, by which you must creep upon your belly into a large square Room, cut also out of the Rock, in which there are other Rooms, and several fair Tombs cut in the Rock. This is a very stately and magnificent Place, and many think that the Doors (wbich are very thick, and of the same stone) have been cut with their Hinges and Pivots in the same place where they are, and by much labour divided from the rest of the Rock; but that is not so, as may be easily known, if one will but take the pains to scrape a little below, and put aside the dust; for then he'll see the joyning of the stones that have been put there; after that, the Doors have been placed with their Pivots in the holes. Being come out of this fair Palace of the Dead, we went to the Cave where the Prophet Jeremiah composed his Lamentations, which is near to that place of the Sepulchres. It is a large very light Grott made in the Rock, having a Pillar in the middle that supports the Roof of it.

CHAP. XLI. Of the River of Jordan, of the Dead-Sea, and of the Mount of the Forty Days Fast.

MOnday the fifteenth of April, which to the Greeks and Latins was Holy Mon∣day, we prepared to go to the River of Jordan; and therefore the Monks having made necessary Provisions for the Journey, we took Horse at the Door of the Church of the Sepulchre of the Blessed Virgin, from whence we parted at eight a clock in the morning to go to that River, whither the Christians go not, but on the Greeks Holy Monday, because then the Basha gives a Guard of

four or five hundred Men, for fear of the Arabs, and unless there be a great many Christians, they cannot raise a sufficient summ of money to defray the Charges of it; for the Greeks and other Christians that are Subjects to the Grand Signior, pay upon account of this Journey, three Piastres and a half the head, and the Franks five Piastres.

Now the year I went thither, the Easter of the Greeks fell on the same day with that of the Latins,; and the Greeks, Armenians, and other Christian Subjects of the Grand Signior's, made in all above four thousand. The Basha sent with us a Convoy of three hundred Horse, and two hundred Foot, under the Command of the Musellem. About nine of the clock, we came to the Fountain of the Apostles, and a little after, to Bethany:* 1.316 Our way lay all along among Mountains, and the Road was very stony from Jerusalem to the Plain of Jericho, where we arrived and encamped about two in the afternoon. We took no care to carry with us Tents, Victuals, nor any other Necessaries in all that Journey; for the Monks made it their business to provide us with Horses, Victuals and Tents, and to shew us all, without paying any thing but for our Horses.

The Town of Jericho is about a quarter of a league from thence,* 1.317 which formerly was a famous City, but at present consists only of thirty or forty Brick-Houses, inhabited by Arabs. These Houses were all forsaken when we went that way, because the Arabs had fled for fear of the Turks that went with us. Near to these Habitations, we saw the House of Zacheus,* 1.318 about a quarter of a league from the Camp, as I said already, and then we returned to the Camp. In the Plain of Jericho,* 1.319 there are Roses of Jericho (as they call them) but they have not the vertues as many ascribe to them, for they blow not unless they be put into water, and then they blow in all seasons, and at any hour, contrary to the Opinion of those who say, That they blow not but in Christmas Night; and others, on all the Festival Days of our Lady; with a great many such idle tales. I found of them also in the Desarts of Mount Sinai. Next day, Tuesday the sixteenth of April, we set out about three of the clock in the morning, and travelled on still in the Plain, till about half an hour after five we came to the River of Jordan, which is something deep,* 1.320 and per∣haps half as broad as the Scine at Paris; it is very rapid, and the water of it thick, because it passes through fat Land, but they say it corrupts not,* 1.321 and I filled a Bottle of it to try the experiment, but the Corsairs whom I met with, threw it into the Sea: this River has its source from two Springs towards Mount Libanus, called Jor, and Dan, which joyned together, make Jordan: It runs from East to South, passes through the Sea of Tiberius, and loses it self in that nasty and stinking Lake, Asphaltites, called the Dead-Sea:* 1.322 It is very full of Fish, and on both sides beset with little thick and pleasant Woods, among which, thousands of Nightingales warbling all together, make a most pleasant delightful and charming Consort.* 1.323 Here our Monks quickly erected an Altar, upon which, they sayed two Masses, at the first of which, I received the Sacrament, but it was very incommodious, for it behoved one (besides he that Celebrates, to hold the Chalice, Veil, &c. Lest the Wind which blew high might overturn and carry them away, and another to hide the Tapers, lest they should be blown out. During that time, all the Greeks, Cophtes, Armenians, &c. Performed their Devotions also; most part go into the Water stark-naked, (especially the Men) and the Women in their Smocks; they had of the Water of Jordan poured upon their Heads, in memory of our Lords Baptism, and washed their Linen in it, carrying away Jarrs and Bottles full of Water, with Mud and Earth, which they took up by the River side, not forgetting Sticks, which they cut in the adjoining Woods, and all to be kept as Relicks. This River is rendred Illustrious by many Miracles, as having stopt its course to let the Children of Israel pass over. The Prophet Elisha passed it over dry-shod, upon his Masters Cloak, &c. I was very desirous we might have gone afterwards to the Dead-Sea, but the Turks would not; and therefore I shall here relate what I have learn'd of it from those that have been there.* 1.324 It was in this Sea that the five Cities of the Plain, Sodom and Gomorrah, &c. Were swallowed up. The water of it is very clear, but extreamly Salt; and in some places of it they find Salt as resplendant as Cristial. It bears up all

who wash in it, though they move neither Hand nor Foot, as many have found by Experience: But I do not at all believe what some say, that it bears up only Live things, and lets things Inanimate sink to the Bottom; nay, that if a lighted Candle be plunged into it, it will float above, But if put out, it will sink to the bottom. There is no sort of Fish in this Sea, by reason of the extraordinary saltness of it: which burns like Fire, when one tastes of it; and when the Fish of the Water Jordan come down so low, they return back again against the Stream, and such as are carried into it by the Current of the Water,* 1.325 immediately Die. This Sea is an hundred miles in length, and twenty five over: The Land within three Leagues round it is not Cultivated but is white and mingled with Salt and Ashes: They say that there are Apple-Trees upon the sides of this Sea, which bear very lovely Fruit, but within are all full of Ashes. In short, we must think that there is a heavy Curse of God upon that place, seeing it was heretofore so pleasant a Countrey. There are many Camels load of Bitumen daily got out of this Lake.

* 1.326Having no liberty then to go see that Sea, we parted from the River of Jordan about seven a clock in the Morning and returned back the same way as we came; about nine a clock the Musellem, who (as I said) commanded the Convoy, halted in the middle of the Plain of Jericho, and went into a Tent, (which was purposely pitched for him, then he caused all the Latin Monks to pass by before him,* 1.327 who were numbered; Then we (who were secular Pilgrims) passed by also, and the Musellem ordered us to be set down eight, though we were but six, and though the Trucheman said that there was but six of us, and offered to make us pass by him again, yet nothing would be abated, which was an Avanie of twenty Piastres for the Monks,* 1.328 for every Secular Frank payes ten Piastres, but they pay it in the City because the Convent answers for them. after we had been thus mustered, we went and Encamped in the same place where we did the day before; and having taken some refreshment, we went to the Mount of the Quarantine,* 1.329 ar forty days Fast, not far from thence, while the Musellem mustered the rest of the Christians, who payed down in ready Money four Bokels and twenty Maidins a Head, though the years before they payed no more but three Bokels.

We parted from the Camp about ten a Clock in the Morning, then went to the Mount of Fasting, a League distant from the Town of Jericho; it is so called because our Lord (when he came out of Jordan) spent forty days and forty Nights there without Eating or Drinking: It is not so hard to go up, as some have been pleased to say, unless it be in some places, which are very dangerous, for one must climb with Hands and Feet to the Rock, that is smooth like Marble, and when we went up it Rained, which rendered it more slippery, but we assisted one another.* 1.330 We came to the place where our Lord fasted forty days; which is a Grott, wherein there is an Altar, on which one of our Monks said Mass; the Greeks heretofore held this Place, and there are still some Greek Pictures there. Some of our company went up to the top of all the Hill,* 1.331 to the place whether the Devil carryed our Lord, and Tempting him, shewed him all the Kingdoms of the Earth, saying, All these will I give thee, if thou wilt fall down and Worship me. But I was so spent and weary, that I would not go up. There are dangerous places in it, where the way is not two foot broad, and there is a great Precipice on the side of it. There are some ruins still of an ancient Monastery that was heretofore on the very top of the Mount. After we had seen that Mountain, we came down again, and upon our return,* 1.332 saw the Well of the Prophet Elisha, the Water whereof was formerly bitter, but that Prophet sweetened it by casting Salt into the Fountain; so that at present the Water is excellently good. It is a quarter of an hours going from the foot of the Hill towards the Camp, where we arrived at two of the Clock in the afternoon. When we were come, some Greeks (to the number of ninety seven) after they had been mustered before the Musellem and payed their four Bokels and twenty Maidins a piece, would needs go see the Mountain also;* 1.333 but seeing they have not the permission as the Franks have, to go thither, upon their return the Musellem ordered them to be bound with Cords, and demanded of them three Bokels and a half a piece, but the Procu∣rator of the Religious Franks compounded the business for somewhat less.

We parted from thence next day Wednesday the seventeenth of April about four a Clock in the morning, and all the way in Rain, and came about eleven of the Clock to Jerusalem. The truth is there is a great deal of reason in what is said, that those who would visit the Holy Places, ought to arm themselves with Patience; for in all these places they suffer injuries of all kinds from the Turks, besides a great deal of Fatigue, for they must visit all the Holy places about Jerusalem on Foot, and to the more remote, they ride on Beasts, which are commonly very bad; and they who bear with all purely for Gods sake, may merit much, but though there were no merit in the case, yet they must take Patience per force; For he that would huff and play the Bravo, would pay and suffer dearly for it.

CHAP. XLII. Of our second entry into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

THE same day we returned from Jordan, which was Holy Wednesday the seventeenth of April, after we had dined in the Convent of St. Saviour, we entred a second time into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but the Greeks entered not till the nineteenth of April, (which was Holy Friday) in the Afternoon, so that we had two days quietly to perform our Devotions in. On Holy Thursday the eighteenth of April in the Morning, we received the Blessed Sacrament from the hands of the reverend Father Commissary, and in the Afternoon went in Procession to the holy Sepulchre, at the door whereof, the reverend Father Commissary washed the Feet of twelve Monks and Pilgrims, of the number of whom, we were; for when there is a sufficient number of Pilgrims, they take no Monks, but when they are fewer than twelve, the num∣ber is made up with Monks; as also when there are more than twelve Pilgrims, they cast Lots who shall be admitted, (as it happened the year before I was there) when there was one and twenty, of whom, nine were excluded by Lot; we sat down then all twelve upon the two seats of Marble that are near to the Chappel of the Angel,* 1.334 and the Reverend Father Commissary washed all our Feet and kissed them, giving to every one of us afterwards a Cross full of Relicks. All the Oriental Christians who were in the Church, (for some went in with us) crouded much to see that Ceremony, most part weeping and cry∣ing aloud when they saw the good old man on his knees washing our Feet. On holy Friday the ninteenth of April, when the evening Office was over, we went in Procession through all the Sanctuaries of the great Church, where all the mysteries of the Passion were represented to the Life;* 1.335 in this Procession there were two Monks who carried the one a Box of Aromaticks, and the other a Bottle of odoriferous Oyl; every one of the Monks had a lighted Wax-Taper, and the R. F. Commissary carried a Crucifix; we (who were Pilgrims) marched two and two, every one with his burning Taper, and the Father of the Pil∣grims after us, to tell us what the places were, and the Prayers that were to be said there; and certainly the Janizaries who were with us, did us a great kindness in making way for us, laying about them with Sticks, for they took great care that the Pilgrims should not be squeezed in the terrible croud of Christians that were there to see our Procession, and who pressed one another almost to Death; and indeed, the Latin Monks perform all their Ceremo∣nies with great Order and Devotion; such as was admired and reverenced, not only by all the Christians, but also by several Turks who were present,* 1.336 whereas the other Christians perform theirs without any Order, but with great noise, insomuch, that the Janizaries who make way for them, beat them

themselves with their Sticks, having no veneration for their Ceremonies, as they have for ours. We stopped first at the Chappel of the Pillar of Flagel∣lation, where having sung the Prayers that are for that place in Books which were given us, an Italian preach'd upon that Subject; then we went to the Prison of our Lord; where having sung the Prayers for that place, a French man made a very good Sermon. From thence we went to the Chappel of the parting of the Garments, where after Prayers there was an Italian Sermon; then to the Chappel of Exprobration, where after Prayers, we had a French Sermon: being gone up to Calvary, we came to the place where our Saviour was nailed to the Cross, and there having sung the proper Prayers for that place, there was a Sermon in high Dutch. From thence we went to the place where the Cross was planted, and having put the Crucifix into the same hole where the holy Cross stood, on which our Saviour was Crucified, and then Sung the Prayers of the place; there was a Sermon made in Greek, which wrought much upon the Greeks, who were very attentive, and shed many Tears; then the Crucifix was taken off of the Cross, and wrapped in a Linen-Cloath: After∣wards being come down again, we went to the Stone of Unction, on which the Crucifix in the sheet was laid, and after Prayers was said, there was a Latin Sermon; after which the R.F. Commissary anointed the Crucifix with the Oyl and aromatick Spices, then wrapped it up in a Sheet, and from thence we proceeded towards the holy Sepulchre; but hardly were we risen up from about the stone of Unction, when all the other Christians (who followed the Procession) cast themselves in crouds upon the said Stone, rubbing Linen-Cloaths upon it, that they might dry up what of the Oyl and Aromaticks had fallen upon the Stone, as a great Relick, all kissing it with great Devotion. Being come to the holy Sepulchre, the Crucifix was laid upon it, and then having Sung the proper Prayers for the place, we had an excellent Sermon in Spanish. Saturday the twentieth of April, the Reverend Father Commissary performed the Office before the holy Sepulchre, and made use of the ornaments given by Lovis the thirteenth, late King of France, which are all most richly Em∣broadered, and a compleat Service of them. There was a great croud of Christians and Turks to see and hear the little Organ that a Monk played upon which they much admired.

CHAP. XLIII. Of the Holy Fire of the Greeks and other Schismatical Christians.

* 1.337WHen our Office was ended, we made ready to have the pleasure of the Holy Fire of the Greeks, Armenians and Cophtes, which the Priests make the People believe comes down from Heaven into the Holy Sepulchre on Holy-Saturday, and for that make every one of their Pilgrims pay so much Money, who are always very numerous. This Solemnity looks more like a Comedy or Farce, than a Ceremony of the Church, and would be more proper for a Stage than for such a Sacred place as the holy Sepulchre is; and indeed, the Turks take up their places betimes, and come in great numbers to have the pleasure of it. We took our places in our Galleries. After we had con∣cluded our Service then, (which was about eight a clock in the morning) they put out all their Lamps, and the Lamps of the holy Sepulchre, and then began their folly, running about the holy Sepulchre like mad men, howling, roaring, and making a horrid noise, without any respect to the place where they were: Every time they passed before the Holy Sepulchre, they cried Eleeson, and it was pleasant to see them run one after another, kicking one another on the Breech, and with Ropes-ends laying one another over the

Shoulders: Several of them joined together in a body, and carrying men upon their Arms, as they passed by the holy Sepulchre let them fall, and then burst out in Laughter, while they who had fallen, run after the others to be revenged of them: In short, one would have taken them all for down right mad People; and it was not only little Boys, but men both old and young that did so. From time to time they lifted their Eyes up to Heaven, and stretched out their hands full of Wax-Tapers, crying all together Eleeson, as if they were weary of expecting the holy Fire, and would obtain it from God by force. This con∣tinued till about three a Clock in the Afternoon, when two Greek Arch-Bishops and two Bishops being cloathed in Patriarchal Robes, (for the Patriarch was not at that time in Jerusalem) came out of their Quire with all their Clergy, and began the Procession about the holy Sepulchre; the Armenians came also and followed that Procession, there being four Armenians with Mitres after the Latin fashion; then came a Cophtish Bishop with his Clergy and People, going all distinctly, but yet following close after one another. After they had con∣tinued their Procession three times round the holy Sepulchre, a Greek Priest came out of the Chappel of the Angel and told him who supplied the place of the Patriarch, that the holy Fire was come down from Heaven, then he went into the holy Sepulchre, having in each hand a bunch of Wax-Candles; he was followed in by him that represented the Armenian Patriarch. and the Cophtish Bishop, the door of the Chappel of the Angel, being in the mean time guarded by Janizaries. When they had been a little while there, we saw the Greek Arch-Bishop comeing out in a very pleasant posture, he marched with his head down, having in each Fist a bunch of Wax-Candles all lighted; no sooner did he appear, but they all fell a striving who should first light his Candle at the Arch-Bishops, it being the best Fire that is soonest lighted; in the mean time the Janizaries hands were not in their Pockets, they hurled the Greeks Caps and Calpecs from one end of the Church to the other, and laid about them on all hands with their Cudgels, to make way for the poor Arch-Bishop, who was doing on his part the best he could to make his escape too. The Arch-Bishop being freed a little, got quickly upon a stone-Altar, that is before the door of the Quire, over against the entry of the holy Sepul∣chre, where the People immediately flocked about him; those also who having lighted their Candles, endeavoured to get out of the Croud, were run down by the rest; in short, there was a horrible confusion, and plenty of Blows bestowed. After that the Greek Arch-Bishop was come out, the Armenian came next, and made his escape towards the Church of the Armenians, as the Cophtish Prelate did towards his own Church; in the mean time the Janizaries kept the door of the holy Sepulchre, and suffered none to enter but such as gave them several Maidins, that they might light their Candles at the Lamps of the holy Sepulchre, where the holy Fire first was: All made so much haste to catch this holy fire, that in a short time their candles were all lighted, so that in a trice there were above two thousand bunches of Candles flaming in the Church; then began all to cry again and play more foolish tricks than before, and immediately a man with a Drum upon his back, fell a running with all speed round the holy Sepulchre, while another at his heels beat upon the Drum with two sticks, and when he was weary, another instantly supplied his place, however by little and little the noise lessened, and we began to look about towards all the parts of the Church both above and below, and there consider men and women, who having by them pieces of Cloath, enough to set up a shop, unfolded them, and at every spans length made Crosses with their lighted Candles in them; this Cloath serves them to be buried in, and for that end they keep it, as if it were a Relick; during this Solemnity, one would certainly think himself in Hell amidst a Legion of Devils let loose, and nevertheless, the most serious cannot forbear Laughing at it: After that is over, they perform their office and then go eat, for they neither eat nor drink that day, before they have had the holy Fire. Now it is impossible to know how they make this holy Fire, for they have a special care that nobody comes near the holy Sepulchre to observe them, but I am apt to beleive that a man hid within it strikes Fire with a Steel, and so lights the Lamps. The Turks discovered the Cheat, and would have punished them for it, but the Patriarch represented to them, that

he could not pay them so much Money as he did, if they took from him the profit of the holy Fire, and therefore they are suffered to continue the Juggle. Next day the one and twentieth of April, being Easter day, the R. F. Com∣missary said high Mass upon an Altar, purposely erected before the door of the holy Sepulchre, a Father playing upon the Organ, to which the Turks were very attentive, but in the mean time purfumed us with the Smoak of their Tobacco, and one of them fairly lighted his Pipe at one of the Tapers upon the Altar, during the time that high Mass was saying. At this Mass we all received the Sacrament from the hands of the R. F. Commissary. That day we used Ornaments given by the King of Spain, which are very rich in Em∣broadery; but seeing it is not a compleat Service, they made up what was wanting, out of those that were given by the King of France. The R. F. was very apprehensive that the Greeks might disturb our Service, because they had resolved to perform theirs before ours, but all was very well, and we performed our Service first, though they made as if they would come out of the Quire and begin their Procession at the same time we began our Mass; however they durst not, and perhaps they would have got nothing by it, for we had Jani∣zaries that would have hindred them. They stayed then till our Service was over, and then began theirs. For our parts so soon as Mass was said, we went out of the Church of St. Sepulchre, and dined in the Convent of St. Saviour, where every one of us found two Chaplets and two Crosses, (which had been touched at the Holy places) upon our Plates. The Convent treated both the Pilgrims and Monks with these.

CHAP. XLIV. Of the places that are to be seen on the way from Jerusalem to Bethlehem.

MOnday the twenty second of April, we put it to deliberation, whether we should go to Emaus, (as the day seemed to require) but it was not thought fit that we should go because it was in our way as we returned back, so that we might not make the journey twice, we went not, for we had no time to lose; but after Dinner we set out from the Convent at one a Clock, to go to Bethlehem, and going out by the Gate of Bethlehem, and leaving Mount Sion to the left hand, (of which, and of all that is to be seen there, I shall speak hereafter) we went first to a place where a Turpentine-Tree grew,* 1.338 under which, (as the People of the Countrey say) the Blessed Virgin going one day from Bethlehem to Jerusalem, rested her self to avoid the heat of the Sun, and that then the Tree bent downwards to give her the greater shade. Some years since, it was set on Fire by the Arab Shepherds, which the Monks hearing of, ran thither in all haste, and took what remained of it, whereof they still make Chaplets and little Crosses. Leaving that place to the left hand, and keeping on our way, we saw to the right hand out of the Road, the House of Righte∣ous Simeon,* 1.339 who made the Hymn Nunc Dimittis, &c. After that, we found to the right hand, the Cistern where the three Wise Men found again the Star which had appeared to them in the East, and which they had lost as they entered into Jerusalem. A little beyond that on the right hand, is the House of the Prophet Habbakkuk,* 1.340 wherein the Angel took him by the Hair of the Head, and carried him to Babylon, to give Daniel Food, when in that City he was put into the Lyons Den, Dan. 14. To the left hand there is a Greek Monastery,* 1.341 dedicated to the honour of the Prophet Elias, who was Born in that place, and before that Monastery there is a Stone on which the figure of his Body is imprinted, and which (they say) was his Bed, and a Well called Elias Well. A little farther is the place where the Prophet Amos was Born.

After that, we found on our right hand the Field of Stone-pease, where the People of the Country say, that the holy Virgin going from Bethlehem to Jeru∣salem, found a Man sowing Pease, and asking him what it was he sowed, he made answer, Stones; whereupon (by Divine permission) the Pease were changed into Stones, retaining only the figure of Pease, and there are of them to be found at present. Then wide of the way to the right hand, we saw the House of the Patriarch Jacob, next,* 1.342 the Sepulchre of the Beautiful Rachel, made in the Vault of the Rock, which is said to be so hard, that Iron cannot hurt it; it is under a little Dome open on all sides, and supported by four square Pillars. This Sepulchre is enclosed within a little Wall three Foot high, having only a little entry to which one ascends by four steps. It is all still so entire, that it would seem to have been newly made. Heretofore it was a Church, which the Turks have now changed into a Mosque. As we went on our way, we found about twenty paces wide of the Road to the left hand, David's Cistern, made with three Mouths,* 1.343 whereof mention is made in the 23 Chapter of the second Book of Samuel; a little after, about two in the Af∣ternoon, we arrived at Bethlehem.

CHAP. XLV. Of Bethlehem.

BEthlehem was anciently a Town of the Tribe of Juda,* 1.344 whither Joseph came with the Virgin Mary, to be Enrolled, as being of the Tribe of Juda, according to the Edict of Augustus Caesar, the Roman Emperour, who commanded that all should give in their Names and Qualities in their Towns, that he might know how many Souls were under his Government. At present it is a pretty big Village, where the Inhabitants get a Livelihood by making Chaplets, Crosses, &c. There is a fair Convent in it,* 1.345 where Latin Monks live, consisting of a large Court, through which you go into a second, where∣in there are three Cisterns, and on the Right Hand of them, a place Vaulted over, the Arch whereof is supported by six Pillars of Garnet: It was in this place that St. Jerome Read and Taught the Holy Scriptures,* 1.346 but the Turks at present have made a Stable of it. From this second Court, you go through a little Door, only three Foot high, and two Foot wide, into a third little Court, which serves for a Porch to the Church; this was a very large Door; but it is walled up, to hinder the Arabs from entring into the Church with their Horses, the Door also which is of Wood, is very thick, and shuts with a strong Bar behind it, to hold out the Arabs; after that, you enter by ano∣ther Door into the Church, which is very spacious, and we shall speak of it here∣after. Turning to the Left Hand, you go into a Cloyster, by a little very thick Door, and covered all over with Iron on the side of the Cloyster, with a great Bolt and strong Bar, for resisting the Arabs: In this Cloyster being the Lodgings of the Latin Monks,* 1.347 whose Church is Dedicated to the Honour of St. Catharine; having there said our Prayers, and heard Te Deum sung, the R. F. Guardian, gave each of us a white Wax-Taper, like to that which had been given us in the Church of St. Saviour, the day we came to Jerusalem, and we went in Procession to visit the holy places that are in the Convent. We descended eighteen steps, and came to the place where the Birth of our Savi∣our is represented; for since the Greeks (as we shall hereafter relate) had taken the holy places from our Monks;* 1.348 they have built a Chappel over against the real place where our Lord was Born, and another over against the Manger, being only separated by a Wall that is betwixt them; and the Popes have granted to these two Chappels the same Indulgences, as to the true ones. Next, we went to the Altar of St. Joseph, then to the Sepulchre of the Inno∣cents,

so called,* 1.349 because many Innocent Infants, whom the Mothers had hid with themselves in that Grott, were Murdered and Buried there. Then to the Oratory of St. Jerome, where he Translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latin, and to his Sepulchre which stands in a Chappel, where there are two Altars: to wit, one over his Tomb, which is on the Right Hand as you enter, and another upon the Tomb of St. Paula, and her Daughter Eustochium, where there is an Epitaph made by St. Jerome,* 1.350 in these terms; Obiit hic Paula ex Nobilissimis Romanorum Corneliis & Gracchas orta, cum 20. Annos vixisset in coenobiis a se institutis, cui tale Epitaphium posuit Hieronymus: And this other be∣sides, Scipio quem genuit Paulae fudere parentes, Gracchorum soboles: Agamemnonis inclyta proles, hoc jacet in tumulo, Paulam dixere priores. Eustochii genitrix, Ro∣mani prima Senatus, Pauperiem Christi & Bethleemiti rura sequuta. We made a station at the Tomb of St. Jerome,* 1.351 and another at the Tombs of the said Saints. After that we went to the Tomb of St. Eusebius, the Disciple of St. Jerome, singing at these several stations, the proper Prayers for the places. All these stations are in Grotts under Ground, where there is no Light but what they bring along with them. Then we come up again into the Church, where the Procession ended. The Church of St. Catharine, was heretofore a Monastery; they say, that it was in that Church that our Lord Espoused St. Catharine, who came to visit these holy places, and the same Indulgences are there, as in Mount Sinai. There is a very good Cistern in that Church, near the Door on the left hand as you enter: It is a very pretty Church, and was with the whole Convent built by St. Paula. After the Procession, we went to the great Church, lately come into the Possession of the Greeks, which for Money they gave the Turks, they wrested from our Monks. This Church was built by St. Helene, and is a most beautiful and spacious Church; it has a high Roof of Cedar-Wood, extraordinary well wrought, and Leaded over, with many fair Windows, that render it very light. The Nef, or Body, is supported on both sides by two rows of high and great Marble Pillars, all of one entire piece, there being Eleven in each row, so that it maketh five Isles, separated one from another by these four rows of Pillars, on every one of which there is the Picture of a Saint; and over these Pillars all the Wall is pain∣ted in lovely Mosaick Work of Green, upon a ground of fine Gold. Hereto∣fore all this Church was lined with beautiful Marble, as may be easily seen by the Cramp-Irons fixed all over in the Wall, which have held the pieces; but the Turks have removed these Ornaments for their Mosques. As you enter that Church, you see on the right hand behind the third and fourth Pillars the Greeks Font, which is very fine. The Quire is still very large, and closed all, round with a Wall; the Armenians have a third part of it, which was given them by the Latins whilst they possessed the Church; and they have separated it from the rest by wooden Rails. As you enter this Quire, you see on each side a kind of Chappel, and almost at the farther end of it stands the high Al∣tar, which with these two Chappels makes a Cross; in that which is on the right hand, there is an Altar, where you see the Stone on which our Lord was Circumcised: In the other Chappel, on the left hand, which belongs to the Armenians, there is an Altar, which they say, is the place where the Kings alighted from their Horses, when they came to adore our Lord. On the right side of the high Altar, there is a pair of Stairs, by which you go up to a Tower on the out-side of the Quire, it was formerly the Steeple of the Church, and serves at present for Lodgings for the Greeks. There are also many Pillars in the Quire like to those in the Nef, and which with these of the Nef, make in all fifty Pillars. Near to the high Altar in the Quire, there are two little Mar∣ble Stair-cases, one on each side, having thirteen steps apiece, and being gone down six of them, you find a neat Brazen Door well wrought, and pierced through to let in light from above; passing it you come to the foot of the Stairs, which lead into a little Church, reaching only in length from the one Stair-case to the other: Much under the great Altar of the Quire, at this end betwixt the aforesaid two Stair-cases, there is an Altar, under which is the place where our Saviour was Born; this place is faced with lovely Marble, in the middle whereof there is a Glory of Silver like the Sun, with this In∣scription about it, Hic de Virgine Maria, Jesus Christus natus est. About half a

Foot from this Glory, there is naturally upon a Marble Stone,* 1.352 a figure in red Colour of a Virgin on her Knees, and a little Child lying before her, which is taken for the Blessed Virgin, and her Son Jesus; on whose Heads they have put two little Crowns of Silver-Plate, Nine and twenty Lamps are kept burn∣ing before that Chappel. Then you go down by three Marble-steps, into a little Chappel, where was the Wooden Manger into which the Virgin laid our Lord, so soon as She had brought Him into the World; this Manger is now at Rome, in Santa Maria Majora. And in the same place St. Helen caused another of white Marble Tables to be put, on one of which set against the Wall, is the natural Figure of an Old Man with a Monks Hood, and long Beard, lying on his Back; and they'll have this to be the Figure of St. Jerome, which God was pleased should be marked upon that Stone, because of the great love he had for that place. Ten Lamps are kept burning before that Chappel; two steps from which, and just over against it, is the Altar of Adoration of the Three Kings, where there is a little Stone for a mark of the place,* 1.353 on which sat the holy Virgin with Her dear Son in Her Arms, when She saw the three Wise Men come in, who having laid down their Presents upon a little Bench of Stone at the foot of the Altar, on the side of the Epistle, adored Jesus, and then offered him their Presents. The Vault in this place is very low, and supported by three Pillars of Porphyrian Marble; before this Altar, three Lamps burn. At the other end of this place, there was heretofore a Door, by which one came down from St. Catharine's Chappel into this Grott, before the Latin Monks lost it, but at present it is Walled up; and close by that Door there is a hole, into which the Oriental Christians say, the Star sunk after it had guided the Magi into this holy place. This Grott is all faced with Mar∣ble, both the Walls and Floor, and the Seeling or Vault, is adorned with Mo∣saick Work, blackened by the smoak of the Lamps. It receives no light but by the two Doors that are upon the Stairs, which affords but very little. Now this place is held in very great Veneration, even by the Turks, who come often and say their prayers there:* 1.354 But it is a very incommodious and un∣seemly thing, that all the Turks who pass through Bethlehem, should Lodge in the great Church, with their whole Families, there being no convenient Lodg∣ing in Bethlehem, which is a great Eye-sore to the Christians, who see their Church made an Inn for the Infidels: But it is above all, troublesome to our Latin Monks, whom they oblige to furnish them with all things necessary, both for Diet and Lodging.

CHAP. XLVI. Of the Way of making what Marks Men please upon their Arms.

WE spent all Tuesday, the Nine and twentieth of April,* 1.355 in getting Marks put upon our Arms, as commonly all Pilgrims do; the Christians of Bethlehem (who are of the Latin Church) do that. They have several Wooden Moulds, of which you may chuse that which pleases you best, then they fill it with Coal-dust, and apply it to your Arm, so that they leave upon the same, the Mark of what is cut in the Mould; after that, with the left hand they take hold of your Arm and stretch the skin of it, and in the right hand they have a little Cane with two Needles fastened in it, which from time to time they dip into Ink, mingled with Oxes Gall, and prick your Arm all along the lines that are marked by the Wooden Mould: This without doubt is painful, and commonly causes a slight Fever, which is soon over; the Arm in the mean time for two or three days, continues swelled three times as big as it ordina∣rily

is. After they have pricked all along the said lines, they wash the Arm, and observe if there be any thing wanting, then they begin again, and some∣times do it three times over. When they have done, they wrap up your Arm very streight, and there grows a Crust upon it, which falling off three or four days after, the Marks remain Blew, and never wear out, because the Blood mingling with that Tincture of Ink and Oxes Gall, retains the mark under the Skin.

CHAP. XLVII. Of what is to be seen about Bethlehem, and of the Grott of the Virgin in Bethlehem.

WEdnesday the Four and twentieth of April, we parted from Bethlehem, at five a Clock in the Morning, and went to see the holy places that are about it. In the first place, we saw on a little Hill on our right hand Boticella,* 1.356 which is a Town wherein none but Greeks live; and the Turks cannot live there, for they say, that if a Turk offer to live in it, he dies within eight days. Then a League from Bethlehem, we saw the Church of St. George, where there is a great Iron-ring fastened to a Chain, through which the Peo∣ple of the Country,* 1.357 both Moors and Christians pass, when they are troubled with any Infirmity; and (as they say) are immediately cured of it. We went not thither, because the day before, the Greeks having been there, met with some Turks, who made every one of them pay some Maidins, though it was not the custom to pay any thing; and our Trucheman would by no means have us go thither, that we might not accustome them to a new Imposition. We left St. George's on the right hand, and went to see a Fountain, called in holy Scripture Fons Signatus,* 1.358 the Sealed Well, which is in a hole under Ground; where being got down with some trouble, and a lighted Candle, we saw on the right hand, three Springs one by another, the Water whereof is by an Aqueduct that begins close by the Fountain Heads, conveyed to Jerusalem. Near to that place there is a pretty Castle, built some fifty or sixty Years since, for taking the Caffares of the Caravans of Hebron, a little farther are the three Fish-Ponds of Salomon;* 1.359 they are three great Reser-servatories cut in the Rock, the one at the end of the other, the second being a little lower than the first, and the third than the second, and so communi∣cate the Water from one to another when they are full; near to this place his Concubines lived. Continuing our Journey, we saw in a low Valley the Garden of the same Salomon,* 1.360 called Hortus Conclusus, because it is on both sides shut in by two high Hills, that serve it for a Wall. Then returning back towards Bethlehem, we passed the Mount Anguedy, where the Cave is in which David cut off the Skirt of Saul's Garment: And about half a League from thence, we saw a Castle upon a high Hill, called Bethulia, which the Franks maintained forty Years, after they had lost the City of Jerusalem; then we came to the Well, where the Virgin desiring to drink, when she fled from the Persecution of Herod; and the People of the Country refusing to draw Water for her, it swelled of it self up to the Wells mouth. Next we went to the place where the Shepherds were, when the Angel brought them the joyful Tydings, saying, I bring you good Tydings, and Glory be to God on High, which with great Devotion we sung there, in an old ruinous Subterranean Church, built by St. Helen in that place. All the Inhabitants thereabouts, are to this day Shepherds, because it is a fertile Country. We returned to Beth∣lehem about ten a Clock in the Morning, and in the Evening went into the Grott, where (it is said) the holy Virgin hid her self with the Child Jesus,

to avoid the Tyranny of Herod, when he put to death the innocent Babes. We carried Candles with us thither, for you can see nothing, unless you have a light with you. This is a round Grott cut in the Rock, and in it there is an Altar, where the Latin Monks sometimes say Mass. They say, that the Virgin having in this place shed some of her Milk, the Stone became white,* 1.361 (as it is at present) and that by Gods permission it obtained this Vertue, That it makes Womens Milk return to them; nay the Turks and Arabs give the powder of it in water to their Females which have lost their Milk, and that makes it return again. About sixty paces from thence, is the House where St. Joseph was, when the Angel appeared to him, bidding him flee into Aegypt, with the Virgin and the Child Jesus.

CHAP. XLVIII. Of the Mountains of Judea, and of the Convent of Holy-Cross.

THursday the twenty fifth of April, we parted from Bethlehem about seven a Clock in the Morning, and went to the Mountains of Judea,* 1.362 passing by the Town of Sennacherib, so called, because the Army of Sennacherib was cut to pieces there in the Night-time by an Angel. Then after we had ascended a little, we passed close by Botirella, which we left on our left hand, and came to the Fountain where St. Philip Baptized the Eunuch of Candaie Queen of Aethiopia; the Brook which runs from that Fountain is called in holy Scripture the Brook of Eshcoll, Numb. 13. That is to say, the Brook of Grapes,* 1.363 because it runs near to the Vineyard of Sorec. Leaving that Fountain to the left hand, we went near to the said Vineyard of Sorec, that is to say, Chosen Vineyard, where the Spies whom Moses sent to view the Land of Promise,* 1.364 took a great cluster of Grapes; then we pass'd by the Village of Battir, and from thence by very bad way came to the Desart of St. John Baptist, where after a pretty long Ascent, we found a very old ruinous Building, which heretofore was a Monastery: under these ruines there is a Cave, where that Saint lived, and there you see the Bed whereon he lay, which is the hard Rock cut in shape of a Bed.* 1.365 This Grott is on the side of a Hill, at the foot of which, there is a very stony Valley or Precipice, then another Mountain, which intercepts the View, so that it is encompassed round with Hills. There is a Spring of excellent water by the side of this Cave, and near to it we Dined. Being gone from thence, we came to the House of St. Elizabeth where are the ruines of a fair Church that was built by S. Helen; that is the place where the Virgin visited St. Elizabeth,* 1.366 and made the Magnificat. which we Sung there: Then going down about five hundred paces, we found on the right hand the Well of St. John, where St. Elizabeth washed his Clouts when he was an Infant: Keeping on our way, we came to a Village, wherein is the House of St. Zacharias,* 1.367 the Father of St. John Baptist, which was converted into a Church, wherein on the left hand of the Altar that is at the end of it, as you enter, is the Room where St. John was Born, and where his Father at the Birth of that Son (who was blessed from the Womb) recovered his Speech, and made the Benedictus, which we sung there; on the other side of the Altar, (to wit, on the side of the Epistle) there is a little hole, where (it is said) St. Elizabeth kept St. John long hid, to avoid the fury of Herod. The Arabs lodge their Cattel many times in this Church. When we came out from thence,* 1.368 we passed through the Village of St. John, Inhabited by Arabs: All the ways in the Hilly Country of Judea, are very bad. We came next to a Convent of Greeks, called Holy-Cross, built with very strong Walls: we went into the Church, which is fair, very light, and full of the pictures of Saints, after the Mosaical way, and paved also in that

manner.* 1.369 It is covered with a Dome. There is a great hole under the high Altar, where the Olive-Tree grew, that was cut down to make the Cross of our Lord of. When we had seen all these things, we took our way streight to Jerusalem, where we arrived about four a clock in the Afternoon. We en∣tered by the Castle-Gate, called also the Gate of Bethlehem. This Gate is called the Castle-Gate, because there is a good Castle in that place.

CHAP. XLIX. Of Bethany, Bethphage, Mount Sion, the Houses of Caiaphas and Annas.

FRiday the twenty sixth of April, we went out by the Gate of Bethlehem, about seven a Clock in the Morning, and saw first on our right hand at the foot of Mount Sion,* 1.370 the two Fish-ponds of Bathshebah, where she bathed her self; and very near over against it, (but about fifty paces higher upon the same Mount Sion) is the Palace of David, from whence he saw, and fell in Love with her; then the Field called in holy Scripture Aceldama, that is to say, The Field of Blood, because it was bought for the thirty pieces of Silver, which Judas got for betraying of our Lord, and afterwards threw them back, being in des∣pair for having sold his Master: They were taken up and laid out in purchasing this Field, which was appointed to be a Burying-place for Strangers, and the Armenian Strangers are buried there at present.* 1.371 Afterwards we saw the Grott where the eight Apostles hid themselves, when our Lord was taken; there are some Pictures of the holy Apostles still to be seen there; then the place where the Strangers Greeks are Interred,* 1.372 and the pit where the Jews hid the Fire of the Altar, by orders from the Prophet Jeremy, when they were carried away Slaves to Babylon by Nebuchadnezer King of Babylon; and many years af∣ter they were delivered, the high priest Nehemiah causihg search to be made for the Fire in that place, they found nothing but a fat Clay, which being by the said Priest laid upon the Burnt-Offering, it took Fire and was Consumed. Close by this Pit there is a Mosque with a reservatory of Water. We came afterwards to the Pool of Shiloah,* 1.373 whither our Lord sent the Blind man to wash,* 1.374 after he had anointed his Eyes with Clay and Spittle, which restored his sight to him. Then we came to the place where the Prophet Isaiah was Sawn a live in two by the middle with a wooden Saw, by command of King Manasses; then the Fountain of the Virgin, so called, because there, (as it is said) she washed our Saviours Clouts. There are thirty steps to go down to it, and they say that such as are sick of Feavers, by bathing in that water and drinking of it, (it being very good to drink) are presently Cured. From this Well comes the water of the Pool of Shiloah. Not far from thence we saw the Mount of Scandal, so called, because the Concubines of Salomon made him commit Ido∣latry in that place, by Sacrificing to the Idol Moloch, and the Idol of Chamos. Not far from thence is the place where Judas Iscariot Hanged himself, after he had betrayed our Saviour; then we went to Bethany, where we saw the ruines of the House of Simon the Leper, where Mary Magdalen poured the precious Ointment upon the Feet of our Lord. Advancing sixty Paces further, we saw the place of the Castle of St. Lazarus, nothing remaining but the ruines upon a little Mount, at the foot of which is the Sepulchre that our Saviour raised Lazarus out of, when he had been four days Dead, and the very stone that was rolled against the mouth of it; there are twenty uneasie steps down to it, cut in the Rock, and at the bottom of them are six wooden steps, that lead into a little Chappel, out of which you go into the said Sepulchre that is on the left hand. This Sepulchre is a little square Grott, containing a Table, on which all the Priests of the Nations that Inhabit Jerusalem say Mass, and the Body of

Lazarus was laid upon this Table. Not far from thence, is the stone on which our Saviour coming from Jericho, sat down and bewailed the Death of Lazarus,* 1.375 when St. Martha told him, Lord if thou hadst been here, my Brother had not Died. Within a few paces of that stone stood the Castle of Mary Magdalen, called Magdalon; and close by it is the place where the house of Martha stood; after that we came to the place of the Fig-Tree, which our Saviour Cursed, because it bore no Fruit, whereupon it instantly withered. Then we passed through Bethphage, where we saw the place where the Ass was when our Saviour sent for it, to make his entry into Jerusalem on Palm-Sunday riding on the Ass. Next we went to the Grott where St. Peter wept bitterly for his Sin,* 1.376 after that the Cock had Crow'd; from thence we came to the place where the Jews would have taken the Body of the Virgin from the Apostles, as they were carrying it to the Sepulchre, for which they were immediately punished. Then we went to Mount Sion, about five or six hundred paces distant from the City,* 1.377 which is the place where our Lord celebrated his Holy Supper with his Apostles, washed their Feet, and instituted the most August Sacrament; the eighth day after his Resurrection, he entered into it when the Doors were shut, and said to his Disciples Pax vobis, Peace be unto you; the Holy Ghost also descended there upon the Virgin and the Apostles, on the day of Pentecost.* 1.378 In this place are the Sepulchres of David and Salomon. About an hundred years since, that Mountain was within the Town, possessed by the Religious of the Order of St. Francis, but after that Sultan Solyman rebuilt the Walls of Jerusalem,* 1.379 it was excluded, and the Friers dispossessed of it. The Turks have built a Mosque there, into which the Christians are not suffered to enter; close by, we saw the place where the holy Virgin died, at present there being no building there: a little lower is the Church-yard of the Roman Catholicks: On the left hand towards the City, is the place where St. John the Evangelist many times said Holy Mass: About an hundred and fifty paces from that Mount, as you go towards the City, there is a Church held by the Armenians, in the same place where the House of Caiaphas stood; we went into it, and saw upon the Altar,* 1.380 the Stone which shut the door of our Saviours Monument, which is near seven foot long, three foot broad, and a foot thick. On the right hand is the Prison, into which our Lord was put, whil'st Caiaphas (after he had examined him) consulted with the rest what should be done with him. As you go out of the Church, on the left hand in a low Court, there is an Orange-Tree, which is the place where St. Peter warmed himself, when he three times denied his Master; seven or eight steps from thence is the place of the Pillar where the Cock Crew: After that, we entred the City by the Gate of Sion, and went to see the House of the High Priest Annas. which now is an Armenian Church.* 1.381 In the Court before the Church there is an Olive-Tree, which they affirm for a certain to be the same to which our Lord was Bound, till he received the Sen∣tence of the High Priest. Going from thence, we went to another very fair Church, called St. James, still held by the Armenians, which was built by St. Helen;* 1.382 in this Church there is a little Chappel on the left hand as you en∣ter, which is the place where St. James the Minor, first Patriarch of Jerusalem was Beheaded, by command of Herod Agrippa. This Church has no light but by the opening in the Dome above, where there is an Iron-Grate very well wrought: Over against this Church is the House of St. Thomas the Apostle, into which the Turks dare not enter, because (they say) that in times past, such as entered it, died there. Afterwards we entered into the House of St. Mark, where there is a Church held by the Syrians; it is the first that was built by St. Helen in Jerusalem; when Herod cast St. Peter into Prison, the other Apostles with the Disciples were in that House, praying for his deliverance; near to that we saw the Iron-Gate through which the Angel brought St. Peter,* 1.383 when he delivered him out of the Prison, from whence St. Peter went to the House of St. Mark, and found the other Apostles there. We then visited in order the House of Zebe∣dee, the Father of St. James the Major, and St. John the Evangelist,* 1.384 which is also the place of their Nativity: at present there is a Church there held by the Greeks. Then we came into the Court or open place of the Church of the holy Sepulchre, and on the right hand (where Mount Calvary is) we entered a little Door, and ascending nine and thirty steps of a winding stair-case, we saw two Churches

held by the Abyssins. And then a Chappel near to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, with a Dome, and fifteen steps up to it, under which St. Mary the Aegyptian did Penance,* 1.385 when she could not get into the Holy Sepulchre. This Chappel is the place where the Holy Virgin and St. John the Evangelist were when the Jews Crucified our Lord. Then we went through a place where we saw the Ruines of a great Pile of Building, where heretofore the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem lived; we went into the Prison where Herod put St. Peter, from whence he was delivered by an Angel, as we have said. After we had seen all these Places, we came back to the Convent about eleven a clock in the Forenoon.

CHAP. L. Our third Entry into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Of the City of Jerusalem.

SAturday the seven and twentieth of April, we entered into the Holy Sepul∣chre, where we stayed till next day, being Sunday the eight and twentieth of April, that the Pilgrims went to Dinner in the Convent; for my part, I stayed still in the holy Sepulchre,* 1.386 where I was honoured with the Order of a Knight of the holy Sepulchre, with the customary Ceremonies. This Knighthood costs an hundred Crowns, and has many Privileges, but not acknowledged in many places. That which chiefly made me desire this Knighthood, was, that that they assured me in several places, that the Spaniards did not detain the Knights of Jerusalem Prisoners, though they were French men; and seeing I was afraid I might meet them at Sea, upon my return into Christendome, I thought my self obliged to take shelter under that protection. After I had dined in the Refectory which the Monks have in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I went to the Convent, and we prepared to leave that Holy City next day.

I shall say nothing of the Ancient Jerusalem, only give the Reader an account of the present State of it.* 1.387 The City of Jerusalem is the Capital of Judea: It stands on a dry and mountanous ground that bears nothing; so that for three or four leagues about, the Land is very barren, but good at a farther distance. The Streets of this City are narrow and crooked:* 1.388 It hath six Gates, to wit, the Sheep-Gate, at present called St. Stephens Gate, the Gate of Ephraim, that of Damas∣cus, that of Jaffa or Bethlehem, that of Sion and the Dung-Gate. It hath also be∣sides these six Gates, the Golden Gate, by which our Lord entered upon the Ass in Triumph, but it is walled up, because the Turks have a Prophesie, That the Christians are to take Jerusalem by that Gate:* 1.389 And every Friday all the other Gates of the City are shut at Noon, and not opened till their Noon-Prayers be over, because they have another Prophecy, That the Christians are to become Masters of them on a Friday, during Noon-Prayer: The same thing they also do in many other Cities.

Not far from the Golden-Gate, there is on high, on the outside of the City-Wall, towards the Valley of Jehosophat,* 1.390 a little Pillar peeping out of a nich in the Wall, like a Cannon out of a Port-hole; and the Turks say, that at the day of Judgment, Mahomet shall sit upon that Pillar, and observe whether our Lord Judge the Chri∣stians well or not; if he Judge righteously, Mahomet will give him his Sister in Marriage with a great deal of Money; that then, the same Mahomet shall change himself into a Sheep, and all the Turks shall nestle in his Wool, being all like Flees, and so he shall flie in the Air, shaking himself very hard, and that those who stick fast to him, shall be happy, and such as fall off, be damned. The Walls are fair and strong, much like to the Walls of Avignon, and look as if they were new.

CHAP. LI. Of Emaus and Jaffa.

MOnday morning, the nine and twentieth of April, the R. F. Commissary led us to the Church of St. Saviour, where having sung the Benedictus, and some Prayers he gave us his Blessing, and so having taken leave of him and of all the Monks of the Convent, after we had given some Piastres to the Truchemen for their pains, and Money to the Procurator or Steward for our diet (which is given by way of Charity, every one according to his liberality, for they ask nothing,) we parted from the said Convent, extremely well satis∣fied with the Entertainment we had received from these good Fathers, who certainly are at a loss how to Treat the Pilgrims, for they say, if they treat them well, when they return into their own Countrey, they give it out, that there is no need of sending any thing to the Monks, because they are too rich; and if they treat them not well, they hinder others from sending them any Charity, saying, that they do not so much as entertain Pilgrims with what is given them. In the mean time they need support, considering the great summs of Money they yearly pay the Turks, without which they would not so willingly be tolerated, though indeed, the League betwixt the Grand Signior and the French King be the real cause of their Toleration. For many years these Monks have held the Holy Sepulchre and other Holy places: They were given to them in the beginning of the year 1304, by Sanche Queen of Sicily, whose Husband was King of Jerusalem, and since that time they have always retained them with the Approbation of all men.

We parted from Jerusalem on Monday the nine and twentieth of April,* 1.391 about seven a clock in the morning, and went to Emaus, two leagues and a half distant from Jerusalem. We went out by the Gate of Bethlehem, and the first thing they made us observe, was about half way, the place where our Lord joyned his two Disciples Cleophas and St. Luke: Then on the left hand, we found the Well of water where they drank together; and afterwards, about nine of the clock in the morning we arrived at the Castle of Emaus, which is the place where these two Disciples knew our Lord, in breaking of Bread: It is a place quite ruined, where there are some marks of an old Castle, and a Chappel whereof one half is thrown down; one of our Monks apparelled in an Alb and Stole, read there in the same place where the House of Cleophas stood, the Gospel on that Subject. We dined close by on the side of a Well, where having taken leave of the Monks who had accompanied us so far to see that place, we parted about ten of the clock, taking the way of Ramah to go to Jaffa, and there take water for Acre, that from thence we might go to Nazareth; we had with us the Drogoman of Ramah, who for fourteen Piastres a piece which we had given him, was obliged to furnish us with Horses and Carriages, and to conduct us to Jaffa; this is a rate established long agoe, and all that Travellers have to do, is only to look out for a Passage at Jaffa, he being obliged by the same bargain to find us Diet for three days: The Monks pay only twelve Piastres, and there were several of them going to Nazareth with us. There is another way by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth, which I shall describe hereafter, but because of the excessive Caffares which the Arabs exact upon the Road, few go that way.

We came to Ramah about four in the afternoon, having had bad way from Jerusalem till eleven a clock in the fore-noon, but the way afterwards very good till we arrived there. Ramah is eight leagues from Jerusalem.* 1.392 We stayed a day there, because there was a Bark at Jaffa taking in Goods for the French, and was bound for Acre, whither we were going, and therefore we stay'd till she should be ready, of which the Merchants having sent us notice, we parted from Ramah on Wednesday the first of May, about six a clock in the morning, and about nine a clock came to Jaffa, four leagues distant from Ramah.

* 1.393Jaffa was heretofore called Joppa; it is a Town built upon the top of a Rock, whereof there remains no more at present but some Towers, and the Port of it was at the foot of the said Rock. There it is that the Fables relate how Andro∣meda was bound to a Rock,* 1.394 and exposed to the Sea-Monster, but delivered by Perseus, who killed that Monster. There it was also where the Prophet Jonas embarked when he fled from the Face of God, who commanded him to go and Preach Repentance to the People of Nineveh. Into the same Port also came the Cedars, which Salomon caused to be cut upon Mount Libanus, for building the Temple of Jerusalem. It was in that Town, where St. Peter living in the House of Simon the Tanner, raised Tabitha, Act. 9. In the same place he saw a Sheet full of all sorts of Animals let down from Heaven, Act. 10. It was in the same place that Mary Magdalen, with her Sister Martha, and Brother Lazarus, were by the Jews put on board of an old shatter'd Vessel, without Rudder, Sails or Oars.

Jaffa is at present a place of few Inhabitants, and all that is to be seen of it, is a little Castle with two Towers, one round, and another square, and a great Tower separated from it on one side. There are no other Houses by the Sea-side, but five Grotts cut in the Rock, of which the fourth is in a place of retreat for Christians. The Franciscan Friars had made some Rooms there for the convenience of Pilgrims, but they had an Avanie put upon them, saying, That they would have built a Fort to Command the Countrey, and all was thrown down again. There is a Harbour still in the same place where it was for∣merly, but there is so little water in it, that none but small Barks can enter the same.

CHAP. LII. Our Departure from Jaffa. Our Rancounter with a French Corsair. And our Arrival at Acre.

WE stayed some days at Jaffa, not only because the Bark had not in as yet all her Lading, but also because of the Weather. At length, every thing being in readiness, we went on board a Bark of the French Nation of Acre, Sunday the fifth of May, about seven a clock in the morning, and making all the sail we could,* 1.395 we saw in passing, Antipatris, Caesarea, Tortosa, called by the Franks Castel Pelegrino. Then we made Mount Carmel, and shortly after Acre, where we made account to be in two hours time, when we began to make tryal of the misfortunes to which all Sea-faring Men are obnoxious; till that time I had never met with any bad rancounter at Sea, and since that, I never made any Voyage without such, though God in his great Mercy hath brought me always safely off.

Being got near then to Mount Carmel, which runs out a great way into the Sea, we saw on the other side of the Point, the top of a Mast, which at first we took to be some Bark at anchor near the shore, but afterwards seeing a Caique full of Men making towards us, our Reys, (who was a Turk,) told us they were Christians, and presently went into his Caique, and put into shoar, where were a great many Arabs both on Foot and on Horse-back, who called to us, and we were so near land, that we plainly heard them call in Arabick, Taala, Corsa min Malta; Come, it is a Corsair of Malta; calling all Vessels in course such, because they often receive Visites from these Gentlemen: But at this time they said true, and the same Arabs fired Small-shot briskly at them, which for all that, hindred them not from making up to us: When I knew them to be Christians, I perswaded a Greek that remained behind, and stood by the Helm, to steer right towards them, since taking them for Friends, I would not go a-shoar where we would have been stript by the Arabs, who left our

Reys stark naked as soon as he had landed. We had no Arms, and though we had had, we would not have thought of making any defence against those whom we took to be our Friends; nevertheless seeing their is no boarding, without firing a Volley of small Shot, it was thought fit we should go under Decks, though all standing upon the point of Honour, no body would hide, for fear of being a reckon'd Coward. Within a very little after, these Blades came up with us, and though a Capucin of our company called to them at a distance, that we were French, and that being near, they saw nobody upon the Deck, nevertheless when they were broadside and broadside with us, they fired a Petrera, charged with Musket-Bullets, and all their small Shot into our Bark; I shall not name that Knight for his Honours sake. These Rascals (because of their bad conduct) at that time deserved to have met with about thirty Turks on board of us, who might easily have mastered them, having discharged all their Shot. When they had done this brave act, they made haste up, and we came out to shew our∣selves; but these young Villains cursing and swearing like Devils, that they might appear more terrible to unarmed men, would not know us, though they themselves were all French men too, and presently fell a stripping of us; for my share I was better served than a Prince, for though I told them I was a French man, I was beset by five Valets de Chambre with a vengeance, of whom some were the Captains Brothers and Kinsmen, who holding a Pistol to my Breast, and a Sword to my Belly, commanded me presently to strip, then pulling and halling one forwards, another backwards, one at the head, ano∣ther at the feet, in the twinkling of an eye they left me stark naked: I thought then that all was past, when they began again to make some passes at me, and perceiving that it was for a sorry Ring that I had on my finger, I quickly pull'd it off and threw it to them, for I began now partly to understand what these Blades were able to do; nay, when we were carried on board their Ship, one of them espying an inconsiderable plain Gold Ring on my Man's finger, seemed very angry that he had not taken it, and when my Man told him that he himself could not get it off, he made him this free answer, That with all his heart he would have cut off the Finger for the Ring. When at length they had left me naked to my Shirt, I asked them who was their Commander, but to that they made me no answer. In the mean time, after all this din and clutter, (to which I was not at all accustomed,) I began to feel it cold, and one of our Monks in pity covered me with his Mantle, for they had not stripp'd the Religious, though they seemed to have a great mind to rifle them, to see if they had got any Money, and in that they had not lost their labour, for a Spaniard of our com∣pany cunningly slid his money into the sleeve of a Monk, and by that means saved it. But now, (all being taken from me even to my very Cap,) I felt much cold in my head, because I was shaved once a week, as being dress'd in the Habit of the Countrey. I prayed them to give me a Cap, and presently they clapt upon my head one of their Caps, which they had recovered out of the Sea, wherein it was fallen. By that time all the hurly-burly was over, it it was night, and so dark, that our Guards lost sight of their Ship, which had put under sail so soon as they knew that their Men were Masters of our Bark, and stood off to Sea, for fear of danger from the Shore. However the Lieutenant who Commanded the Crew that had taken us, had orders to follow the Ship with the Bark so soon as he was Master of her, and therefore he fired several Squibs from our Barks head, that the Ship might answer, and let him know where she was: I was then extremely afraid they would have set our Bark on fire, being full of Cotten, the Bags heaped one upon another; if that had happened, they would have made their escape in their Boat, and left us to be burnt alive, but God preserved us. Their Ship made answer with a Squib, and coming up with her a quarter of an hour after, we went on board. Presently the Captain sent us to the Poop, intending to make us lye abroad in the cold Air without Supper, and had the Monks into his Cabin, who having told him what I was, he came and called me by my name, and carried me down into his Cabin, where he presently gave me Cloaths, and made many excuses for the bad usage I had met with, assuring me that I should lose none of my Cloaths, and withal telling me that he had seen me at Malta. Our Supper was but very mean, for he had no Provisions. In the mean time he

gave me his Bed, the next day, the sixth of May, he took a great deal of pains to make us recover our things again, but all in vain; only he got my Capot, a pair of Drawers, and some other Trifles, to be restored unto me, and at that the Rascals murmured too, saying, That if they had killed us, they would not then be obliged to restore any thing. Then the Captain told us, that he must needs set us ashoar, because he had not Provisions enough for us; we thereupon prayed him to let us go in our Bark, which was loaded wholly for Frenchmen, but he told me that he was accountable to his Owners for that Bark, so that he resolved to turn us ashoar, though I told him, that was the way to put us in danger of being burnt alive, if the Arabs should but fancy us to be Pirats; he ordered his Caique then to be made ready, but seeing it could not carry us all at a time, was resolved she should do it at twice. For my part, I would not go off with the first, judging the worst of every thing. And the truth is,* 1.396 this first Voyage succeeded as I had imagined; for being pretty near Land, off of a fair Village called Caipha, at the foot of Mount Carmel, they put out white Colours, but instead of answering them with the same Colour, they fired a Volley of small shot at them, so that they were forced to come back again. The reason why they answered not with a white Flag was, that there was a French Merchant in the Village, who came from Acre to buy Goods, and he being informed by our Reys, that there were French Passengers on board of that Bark, he went to him that Commanded in the Village, telling him that if he put out a white Flag, they would set us ashoar, and carry off the Bark and Goods, whereas if he did it not, they would be obliged to let both Bark and Men go, not knowing what to do with us: It happened so, indeed, for the Captain finding himself in great Perplexity, and not knowing what to resolve upon, made us give a Certificate under our Hands, attesting that the Goods belonged to Frenchmen. When we had sign∣ed this, he let us go in our Bark, giving us three Greeks, whom he had taken before he met with us. We left him about Noon, and came to Acre about an hour after, being every way in bad Equipage, and much out of Order, not having so much as a Caique to come ashoar in. Monsieur de Bricard, the French Consul, sent us one, and did me the favour to offer me both Money and Cloaths, for I had lost both Cloaths, Money and all, except a Bill of Exchange for Acre, which by good luck they left me in an old Cloak-bag, having torn and thrown overboard some Papers, wherein I had written my Observations of Jerusalem. All our Relicks were broken, mislaid, or thrown into the Sea, and the Gourd that I had filled with the Water of Jordan was emptied, and then filled with Wine; for when I asked them news of it, they shewed it me full of the Wine, which they had taken from us. So soon as we came ashoar, the Basha fitted out four French-Merchants Ships, that were in the Harbour, to fall upon that Corseir, for they had seen us taken from thence; and all the French Merchants knew their own Bark, having a Sail striped with Blew. He put an hundred Turks on board every one of these Ships, but the Consul (whom it would have troubled to have seen so many Frenchmen made Slaves) having recommended the matter to the Prayers of the Monks, ordered the Captains of these Ships, to use all means they could not to take him, and prayed me to dishearten the Turks that went on board; which I did the best way I could. For the Turks having asked me before they went, what number of Men they were? I told them they were betwixt three and four hundred, though they were not sixscore; and that they were well Armed, and resolved to defend themselves to the last. In short, the Basha himself went on board one of the four Ships, and made towards the Corseir, who was lying at Anchor much about the place where he had taken us. He had a design (as we were since informed) thinking them to have been French Merchantmen, to have met them, and got Provisions from them, (for they were all ready to starve) and if the Basha had had the skill to have put out French Colours, he might have taken them without striking a blow; but the Captains not steering right upon them, and firing purposely at them at a distance, made them know that they were coming to take them, wherefore they quickly cut their Cable, and getting un∣der Sail, stood presently away; and the Basha being very well satisfied that he had made them leave his Coast, returned to Acre.

CHAP. LIII. Of Acre.

ACRE is a Town of Palestine, lying on the Sea;* 1.397 it was anciently called Acco, afterwards Ptolemais, long held by the Knights of Malta, and hath been a very large and strong place, as appears by the marks that remain, but at present it is almost wholly Ruined, and the Harbour of it (which is very great) now filled up with Rubbish. This Town depends on the Basha of Sephet. History mentions, that heretofore there were as many Churches in this Town as there are days in the Year; at present there are only the Ruines of about thirty to be seen; among others there are some stately remains of one, where (as they say) the Knights of Malta heretofore had a Treasure, which they marked with a piece of Marble, and which, not many Years since, they brought away in a Ship that came purposely to Acre, under pretext of buy∣ing Goods. The Palace of the Great Master is to be seen there still, but very Ruinous; there is in this Palace a back Gate towards the Sea, by which the Knights abandoned the Town, and went on Shipboard, when they could no longer defend the place. There remain still a fair Stair-case, and some Build∣ings, made there by the Emir Farr Eddin, with several other very lovely Ruines. There is also a square Tower in Acre, which serves for a Castle, with a House close by it that serves for a Serraglio to the Basha, when he is in that Town, which is not much Inhabited, for there are not fifty Houses in it, and these too rather Huts than Houses: Nevertheless there is a little Han there, where the French Company of Sayde lodged at that time, but they were so streightned in it, that there were no fewer than four of them in one Room. The cause of the French Companies removing from Sayde to Acre, was that he who Com∣mands at Sayde, having done them an Injury, and refusing to make Repara∣tion, Monsieur de Bricard the Consul, resolved to have Justice of him, and having given Orders for all things necessary, he pretended one day to go a Hunting, but being abroad in the Fields with all his Merchants, he made all haste to Acre, where he was kindly Welcomed by the Basha of Sephet: The other finding this, sent to entreat the Consul to return, promising him all Satis∣faction, but the Consul was so far from condescending to it, that he sent De∣puties to Constantinople to make his Complaints against this Turk of Sayde, who seeing that he could not prevail with the French by fair mains, gained an Arab Scheik, who promised to bring the Consul and all the Merchants back by force. But the French being informed of this, stood upon their Guard, so that the Arab finding his design blow'd upon, durst not undertake it. In short, this Man of Sayde being now at his Witsend, threatned to Plunder their Ware∣houses, which were full of Goods at Sayde, if they did not return; but that did not at all move them, as knowing he would have a care how he did that, for he would have been forced to restore all back again one day, and if they had thought fit, more than he had taken, by pretending that there was ten times as much in them as indeed there was: But at length, some Months after, the Consul and Nation having received all Satisfaction from Constantinople, re∣turned in Triumph to Sayde.

CHAP. LIV. Of Nazareth, and the Places about.

* 1.398WE set out from Acre on Wednesday, the eighth of May, about four in the Afternoon, to go to Nazareth, eight Leagues distant from Acre; we took four Turks with us, each armed with a Musquet, to defend us from the Arabs if we should meet any, and we our selves had each of us a Fowling-Piece, and a Case of Pistols, that they had lent us at Acre. We stopt a little to eat, about six a Clock at Night; and then taking Horse again, continued our Journey through places where there was no Road, but Grass up to our Horses Bellies,* 1.399 and at ten a Clock at Night arrived at Nazareth. Nazareth is an ancient Town, standing upon a little height at the end of a large Plain, called Ezdrelon.* 1.400 It is a Town at present almost desolate. We lodged in the Convent, which is commodious and neat enough, being new built; for it is but about forty Years since that place came into the hands of the Monks of the Holy Land, being given them by the Emir Farir Eddin. Thursday, the ninth of May, we went into the Church, where we heard Mass, and said our Pray∣ers;* 1.401 this Church is on the same place where the Angel Gabriel Annunciated the Mystery of the Incarnation to the Virgin Mary, when she was at Prayers, so that that Grott was her Oratory; you go down to it by seven or eight steps in the Court, and by more in the Convent. There are two lovely Pillars of greyish Stone in it, which were put there by St. Helen, one at the very place (as they say) where the Virgin was when she received that Heavenly Message, and the other at the place where the Angel appeared; from the lower part of that where the Virgin was, there is about two Foot broken off by the Turks, so that the rest hangs (as it were) in the Air, sticking to the Vault to which the Capital of it is fastned.* 1.402 Even with this Grott is the place of the Virgins Chamber, which was by Angels Transported to Loretto; so that there are two Nefs, one of the Grott, and another of the Chamber, in the space whereof there is another Rebuilt exactly like that of Loretto. It is thirteen paces long, and four broad, the Chamber and Grott together, being also thirteen paces in length. We went out of Nazareth the same day, May the ninth, about three in the Afternoon, to go visit the holy places about it: And in the first place, about three quarters of a League South from Nazareth, we saw a great Hill, called the Precipice,* 1.403 which is the place where the Jews would have thrown our Saviour down headlong, but He rendering himself invisible to them, retreated (as they say) into a little Cell, that looks like a large and deep Nich; this Nich is about the middle of the Precipice, and heretofore the prints of his Body were to be seen in it. In this Nich there is an Altar, on which some∣times they say Mass; and the ruines of a Chappel still to be seen by it. From the top of that Precipice, you may see the Town of Naim, where our Lord raised the Widows Son from the Dead; it lies at the foot of the Hill called Hermon,* 1.404 mentioned in the Psalms. Betwixt the Precipice and Nazareth, there are some ruines of a Nunnery,* 1.405 where there was a Church, dedicated to our Lady of Fear; because they say, the holy Virgin following our Lord, whom the Jews led to precipitate him, and being afraid they might put him to death; as she was going fell down in this place, and her Knee is very well marked in the Rock. The Monks say, that they caused a piece of the Rock to be cut off, that they might have carried away that Impression; but that after they had gone a few steps, they could not carry it away. Then upon a little Mount, about six hundred paces from the Convent, they shewed us a great Stone,* 1.406 called our Lord's Table; because they have it by Tradition, that our Saviour eat many times upon it with his Apostles: Close by it is the Fountain, called St. Peter's Well, because our Lord returning back to the Town with his Apostles, and St. Peter being dry, our Saviour made that Well to spring

out, and the Water is very good: After that, we entered into the Town, which is close by, and about five a Clock at Night, came to the Con∣vent.

CHAP. LV. Of the House of the Cananean, the Mount of Bea∣titudes, the Mount of the two Fishes and five Loaves. the Sea of Tiberias, of Mount Tabor, and other holy Places.

NEXT day being Friday, the Tenth of May, we parted from Nazareth, about five a Clock in the Morning, and a little after, found the Fountain where the Blessed Virgin used to draw Water;* 1.407 and there are some steps to go down to it. Then on the left hand we saw the Tomb of Jonas, to whom the Turks bear great respect, as they do to all the Prophets: We saw a print of his Foot on the Rock, the same Foot being marked on four places of the Rock, at some paces distance from one another. We came next to the Well where the Water was drawn, which our Lord turned into Wine, at the Marriage of Cana. In the Sacristie of the Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins at Cologne, I saw one of the Pots wherein our Saviour wrought that Miracle, changing the Water that was in it, into so good Wine, that the Guests who had not seen the Miracle wrought, complained to the Master of the Feast, that he brought forth the good Wine last; seeing it was the custom to give the good Wine first, and the bad last: then we went into the House where our Lord wrought this Miracle. St. Helen built there a Church, with a little Convent where some Monks lived, it is still standing, but the Moors have changed it into a Mosque; however we entred into it. Having seen that place, we Travelled a pretty while in the Plain where the Apostles pluck'd the Ears of Corn, and rubbed them in their hands on the Sabbath-Day,* 1.408 then from a little height we discovered the Sea of Galilee, from whence we also saw Bethulia, where Judith killed Holofernes. We saw also from that place, pretty near the said Sea, the top of Mount Libanus, all white with Snow; and about Ten in the morn∣ing we came to the Mount of Beatitudes, so called,* 1.409 because it is the place where our Saviour made to his Apostles the Sermon of Beatitudes; we went up to it, and after we had heard the Gospel on that subject read by one of our Monks, we came down again and continued our Journey,* 1.410 and half an Hour after, we came to the place where our Lord fed Five thousand men, with two Fishes and five Loaves, and twelve Baskets full of Fragments remained. Ha∣ving the Gospel read to us, we eat in that place upon a Stone, upon which (they say) he blessed the said Fishes and Loaves; from thence we went to the Town of Tiberias, which is upon the side of the Sea of Tiberias, having been restored by Herod, and named Tiberias from the name of the Emperour Tiberius. We got there about Noon; its Ruines and old Demolished Walls, demonstrate it to have been a very large place. The Walls of it having been ruined, a Jewish Widow afterwards built new ones in form of a Fort, with its Courtines, and Jews lived there, until about fifteen Years ago, that the Ty∣rannie of the Turks made them abandon it. Among the ruines of the Town, and even within the Precincts of it, a great many Palm-Trees grow; within this last Precinct, there is a Castle upon the Sea-side, which seems to have been a strong place. A hundred paces from thence, within the said Precinct, we saw a Church, five and twenty paces in length, and fifteen broad, dedicated to St. Peter, which is still entire. They say, that St. Helen caused it to be

built in the place where our Lord said to St. Peter,* 1.411 Thou art Peter, and upon this Rock will I build my Church, &c. There we had that Gospel read to us. Others say, it is the place where our Lord eat Fish with his Apostles after his Resurrection, when He appeared unto them upon the side of this Sea. We Dined in that place, and then washed our selves in the Lake; the Water whereof is fresh, very good to Drink, and full of Fish. It is about twelve or fifteen Miles long, and five or six over. It was heretofore called the Sea of Galilee,* 1.412 or Lake of Genezareth. From thence on the left hand, upon the side of that Sea, we saw the ruines of the Town of Capernaum, where St. Matthew left the Custom-House, to follow our Lord, and where our Saviour Cured the Centurion's Servant, and the Son of the Nobleman, and raised a Maid from the Dead. About an hundred paces from the Precinct of the Town of Tibe∣rias, close by the Sea-side, there is a natural Bath of hot Waters, to which they go down by some steps. The ancient Walls of Tiberias, reached as far as this Bath. We parted from Tiberias about two in the Afternoon, and about seven a Clock at Night, arrived at a Village called Sabbato, near to which we lay abroad in the open Fields,* 1.413 for our Monks would by no means have us to Lodge at the usual place, which is at the Castle, called Aain Ettudgiar, that is to say, the Merchants Well, as being afraid of some Avanie. Next day, Saturday the eleventh of May, we left that bad Inn about five a Clock in the Morning, and half an hour after, came to a Castle called Eunegiar, which is square, having a Tower at each Corner; close by it there is a Han, which ap∣pears to be pretty enough,* 1.414 and is also square: It was at this Castle (as they say) that Joseph was by his Brethren sold to an Ishmaelite Merchant; the Pit or Well, whereunto they had put him first, is still to be seen, but we went not to it, because it was quite out of our Road. This Castle is commanded by a Sous-Basha; and there we payed a Piastre of Caffare a piece, of which one half goes to the Sous-Basha, and the other to the Arabs. From thence we went to∣wards Mount Tabor,* 1.415 by the Arabs called Gebeltour, and came an hour after to the foot of it, where alighting from our Horses, though one may ride up on Horse-back, as some of our Company did, we got up to the top, about nine a Clock: It is easie to be mounted, seeing one may go up on Horse-back, but it is also very high, being almost half a League from the bottom to the top. Ha∣ving taken a little breath, we entred by a low Door into a little Grott, where we found on the left hand a Chappel, built in memory of the place where our Lord was Transfigured, and of what St. Peter said, It is good for us to be here, let us make three Tabernacles, &c. This Chappel is made up of four Arches cross∣ways, one of them is the entry of the Chappel, that which is opposite to it, is the place where our Lord was when he was Transfigured; that which is on the right hand of it, but on the left hand of those that enter into the Chappel, is the place where Moses was; because in holy Scripture, Moses is mentioned before Elias. The fourth (which is over against that of Moses) is the place where Elias was; and a Monk read to us there the Gospel of the Transfigurati∣on. Near to this place there is a little Plain, and a Cistern of excellent Wa∣ter. This Mount is shaped like a Sugar-Loaf, and is covered all over with Trees, for most part hard Oaks. After we had eaten in that place, we came down about ten a Clock in the Morning, and took our way towards the Con∣vent of Nazareth, where we arrived about one of the Clock. In the Evening we went to see the House and Shop of St. Joseph, very near to the Convent; there is an old ruinous building there, which appears to have been a Church, wherein were three Altars,* 1.416 built by St. Helen, and a few steps farther, we saw the Synagogue where our Lord taught the Jews, when they had a mind to precipitate him.

CHAP. LVI. The way by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth.

ONE may Travel by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth,* 1.417 and besides avoiding the dangers that offer by Sea, see a great many other curious places; but, (as I have already said) the Arabs exact such unreasonable Caffares upon the Road, that few go that way at present; however I shall set it down in this Place.

Parting from Jerusalem after Dinner, you come to Lodge at Elbir;* 1.418 there there is a very curious Village standing upon a height, and Inhabited by a few People. There is also a Church half ruined, which was heretofore a fair Fabrick: The Walls that yet stand are of great Flints. They say that this was the place where the blessed Virgin lost her dear Son Jesus, and therefore returned to Jerusalem, where she found him in the Temple Disputing with the Doctors. Next day you Lodge at Naplouse, Travelling all the way over Hills and Dales,* 1.419 which are nevertheless Fruitful, and in many places bear plenty of Olive-Trees. Naplouse is the Town which in holy Scripture is called Sichim,* 1.420 near to which Jacob and his Family most frequently Lived; it stands partly on the side, and partly at the foot of a Hill. The Soil about it is fertile, and yields Olives in abundance. The Gardens are full of Orange and Citron-Trees, watered by a River and sundry Brooks. About one hundred paces from the Town towards the East, there is a spring under a Vault, which discharges its water into a reservatory of one entire piece of Marble, ten spans long, five broad, and as much in height: in the front there are some Foliages and Roses cut in Relief upon the Marble. About half a quarter of a League from thence, (upon the Road from Jerusalem) is the Well of the Samaritan,* 1.421 as the Christians of the Country say who keep it covered with great Stones, least the Turks should fill it up. When these Stones are removed, you go down into a Vault by a little hole, opposite to the mouth of the Well; and there another great Stone is to be removed, before you come at the Well, which is sixteen fathom deep, Cimented narrow at the top, and wide at the bottom. Over the aforesaid Vault, there are some ruines of the Buildings of a Village; two little Pillars are to be seen still standing, and many Olive-Trees all round. Near to that is the portion of Land which Jacob gave to his Son Joseph; it is a very plea∣sant place, and his Sepulchre is in it.* 1.422 Mount Gerezim (mentioned in holy Scripture) is on the right hand as you go to that Well. There is a Chappel at the foot of this Mountain, where the Samaritans heretofore worshipped an Idol. On the South side of the Town there is another Mount, called in Arabick Elmaida, that is to say Table,* 1.423 where (they say) our Lord rested himself being weary upon the Road: There is a Cushion of the same Stone raised upon the Rock still to be seen, and some prints of Hands and Feet; and they say, that in times past, the figure of our Lords whole Body was to be discerned upon it: This is a pleasant place, having a full prospect of the Town. To the West of it there is a Mosque, heretofore a Church, built upon the same ground where the House of Jacob stood; on the other side there is a ruinated Church,* 1.424 built in honour of St. John Baptist. In this Town Travellers pay a Caffare. Next day after an hour and an halfs travel, you strike off the high Road to the right, if you would see the Town of Sebaste standing upon a little Hill,* 1.425 about half a League wide of the Road, where you still see great ruins of Walls, and several Pillars both standing and lying upon the Ground, with a fair large Church, some of it still standing upon lovely Marble-Pillars: The high Altar on the East end must have been very fine, by what may be judged from the Dome which covers it, and is still in order, faced with Marble-Pillars, whose Capitals are most Artfully fashioned, and adorned with Mosaick Painting, which was built by St. Helen (as the People of the Country say). This Church at present is divided into two parts, of which the Mahometans hold the one, and the

Christians the other. That which belongs to the Mahometans is paved with Marble,* 1.426 and has a Chappel under Ground, with three and twenty steps down to it. In this Chappel St. John Baptist was Buried, betwixt the Prophets Elisha and Abdias. The three Tombs are raised four Spans high, and enclosed with Walls, so that they cannot be seen but through three openings a span big, by Lamp-light, (which commonly burns there.) In the same place (as they say) St. John was put in Prison, and Beheaded at the desire of Herodias. Others say,* 1.427 that it was at Macherus, which is a Town and Fort where King Herod kept Malefactors in Prison. This Town of Sebaste, was also called Samaria, from the name of Simri, to whom the Ground whereon it is built belonged, or from the name of the Hill on which it stands, which is called Chomron. Having pass'd Sebaste you are out of Samaria,* 1.428 which terminates there, and pursuing your Journey, you come to lodge at Genny. They say, that in this place our Savi∣our cured the ten Lepers. There is a Mosque there still, which was formerly a Church of the Christians; the Han where you lodge is great, and serves for a Fort, having close by it a Fountain and a Bazar where Provisions are sold. The Soil is fertile enough, and produces plenty of Palm-Trees and Fig-Trees, There is a very great Caffare to be payed there. Next day, after about two Hours march,* 1.429 you enter into a great Plain, called Ezdrellon, about four Leagues in length, at the west end whereof you see the top of Mount Carmel, where the Prophet Elias lived, of which we shall speak hereafter. At the foot of this Hill are the ruines of the City of Jezreel, founded by Achab, King of Israel, where the Dogs licked the Blood of his Wife Jezebel,* 1.430 as the Prophet Elias had foretold. In the middle of this Plain is the Brook of Gison, where Jabin King of Canaan and Sisera his Lieutenant were slain by Deborah the Prophetess, and Judge of Israel, and by Barak chief of the Host of Gods People. Many Battels have been fought in this Plain, as may be seen in holy Scripture. After you have passed this Plain, and travelled an hour over Hills, you come to Nazareth, of which, and the places that are to be seen about it, I have already said enough. Now I'll set down the way from Nazareth to Damascus.

CHAP. LVII. The Road from Nazareth to Damascus.

SUCH as would go to Damascus, may lye at Aain Ettudgiar, which is a Castle about three Leagues from Nazareth, mentioned by me before in the fifty fifth Chapter; and there is a Caffare to be paid there. The next day you lye at Menia,* 1.431 by the Sea-side of Tiberias. The day following, you see from several places on the Road the Town of Sephet, (where Queen Esther was Born) standing on a Hill.* 1.432 About four hours Journey from Menia, you see the the Pit or Well of Joseph, into which he was let down by his Brothers; there is no water in it, the mouth of it being very narrow, but the bottom indiffer∣ent wide, and may be six fathom deep. It is covered by a Dome standing on four Arches, to three of which so many little Marble-Pillars are joined, as But∣teresses for the Dome; the place of the fourth Pillar is still to be seen, and it appears to have been not long agoe removed. Close by this Pit there is a little Mosque adjoining to an old Han. Two hours journey from that Pit you cross over Jacob's Bridge,* 1.433 which the Arabs call Dgeser Jacoub; this is the place where this Patriarch was met by his Brother Esau, as he was returning with his Wives and Goods from Laban his Father in law: The Bridge consists of three Arches, under which runs the River of Jordan, and falls afterwards into the Sea of Tiberias, about three hours going from thence. On that side the River runs, there is a great Pond to be seen. When you have passed this Bridge you are out of Galilee, and there you pay a great Caffare. Then you come

to Lodge at Coneitra, which is a little Village,* 1.434 wherein there is a very old large Han, built in form of a Fort, with three Culverines; within the precinct of it there is a Mosque, a Bazar, and a Coffee-House;* 1.435 and there also you pay a Caffare. Next day you lye at Saxa, and have bad way to it, the Countrey being so stony that it cannot be Cultivated.* 1.436 About mid way you find a Han built of black stones and called Raimbe, over the Gate whereof there is a square Tower with four Windows after the manner of our Steeples. Saxa is a pretty Han, having a Mosque in the middle, and a Fountain by the side of it. With∣out it you see a little Castle, near to which runs a River, that divides itself into four and thirty Branches, and there you find three Bridges, where there is a Caffare to be paid. The day following you come to Damascus, seven hours traveling from Saxa; but first, about an hour and a halfs journey from Saxa, you cross over a Bridge upon the River that comes from Saxa. For the four first hours the way is stony, after that, betwixt two little Hills, and on the right hand of a ruined Village, called Caucab, that is to say, Star,* 1.437 is the place where our Lord said to St. Paul, Saul, Saul, why Persecutest thou me? The rest of the way, is over most fertile Plains.

CHAP. LVIII. Of the City of Damascus, and the places that are to be seen about it.

THE first thing that may be seen at Damascus, is the Bezestein,* 1.438 which is Beautiful enough, and hath three Gates; from whence you go to the Castle, which is all built of Stones cut in Diamond cut; but it is not easie for Franks to enter it. At first you come to a Court of Guard with several Arms hanging upon the Wall, and two pieces of Ordnance, each sixteen spans long. About fifteen steps further is the Mint, where the Jews Work. A little beyond that, there is a Dome of no great Workmanship, but supported by four so great Pillars, that three men can hardly fathom one of them round. Fifty paces from thence, you enter through a large Arched Hall into the Divan where the Council is held, painted with Gold and Azure after the Mosaick way; and in it there are three Basons full of excellent water: When you come out of the Castle, you see the Ditches half a Pikes depth, and twenty paces over, wherein on the side of the Town a little Canal of water runs, which waters the Gardens about, that are full of Orange, Limon, Pomgranet, and several other Trees. Through the middle of the Castle runs a branch of the River, with which they can fill the Ditches, when there is occasion. On the outside of the Walls of the same Castle, hang two Chains of Stone, one of which contains sixteen Links, and the other fourteen, cut one within another by matchless Art, each Link being about two fathom long, and one and a half wide, and the two Chains are of one entire Stone a piece, From thence you come to a fair Mosque about twenty Paces Square, painted all over with Mosaick work in Gold and Azure, and paved with Marble;* 1.439 in the middle of it is the Sepulchre of Melec Daer, Sultan of Aegypt. After that, you must see the House of the Tefterdar, wherein there is a little Marble Mosque of most lovely Archi∣tecture, and painted with Gold and Azure. There are several lovely Rooms in it of the same fashion, at each Window whereof, you have a little Fountain of most clear Water, which is artificially brought thither in Pipes. In this House there is a door and several great Windows, with copper-Lettices which look into the great Mosque, and thence one may see without molestation, but Christians are forbidden to enter it, upon pain of Death, or turning Turk. From that door and the Windows, one may perceive a great part of the Mosque which may be about three hundred paces long, and threescore wide. The

Court is paved with lovely Stones, most part of Marble, shining like Lookin-glasses. Round about this Court there are several Pillars of Marble, porphy∣rie and Jasper, incomparably well wrought, which support an Arch that ranges all round, painted with several pieces in Mosaick work. The Porch of the Mosque faces this Court, and the entry into it is by twelve large Copper-Doors embossed with Figures, with several Pillars, most part of Porphyrie, whose Capitals are gilt. The walls are painted with lovely figures in Gold and Azure. The Turks themselves have so great a veneration for this place, that they dare not pass through the Court without taking off their Pabouches; and certainly 'tis one of the loveliest Mosques in all the Turkish Empire. It was heretofore a Christian Church, built by the Emperour Heraclius, in Honour of St. Zacha∣rias, the Father of St. John Baptist, and they say, there is a Sepulchre in it where the Bones of that holy Prophet rest. You must also see the Fountain where St. Paul recovered his sight, and was Baptized by Ananias, which is in the Streight-street, so called in the Acts of the Apostles, under a Vault in the Bazar, near to a thick Pillar, called the Ancient Pillar; then you go up to the House of that same Judas, with whom St. Paul Sojourned, to be instructed in the Christian Religion, and Baptized: there you see a great door armed with Iron and huge Nails; within which is the Chamber where the said Saint Fasted three Days and three Nights. After that, you go out of the Town by a Gate called Bab cherki,* 1.440 That is to say, East Gate, near to which (in former times) there was a great Church, built in honour of St. Paul, but at present the Turks have made a Han of it; the Steeple remains still, and is very ancient Work. Continuing your way along the Town-Ditches, and about fifty paces Southward, from the said gate, you see a great square Tower joining to the walls, in the middle of which there are two Flowers de luce cut in Relief, and well shaped, and at the side of each of them a Lyon cut in the same manner: Betwixt these Flowers de Luce, there is a great Stone with an Inscription upon it in Turkish Characters. About three hundred paces further, you come to the Gate called Bab Kssa,* 1.441 that is walled up, under which is the place where St. Paul was let down in a Basket, to avoid the persecution of the Jews. Sixty paces from thence over against the Gate,* 1.442 is the Sepulchre of St. George the Porter, who had his Head struck off upon pretence that he was a Christian, and had made St. Pauls escape: The Christians of the Countrey reckon him a Saint, and have commonly a Lamp burning upon his Tomb. Returning the same way back to the Town,* 1.443 you pass by the House of Ananias, which is betwixt the East Gate and St. Thomas Gate; and there you find fourteen steps down to a Grott, which is the place where Ananias instructed St. Paul, and taught him the Christian Doctrine: And on the left hand is the hole, (but now stopp'd up) by which Ananias went under ground to St. Paul in the House of Judas. They say that the Turks have several times attempted to build a Mosque over that Grott but that all that they had built in the day-time, was in the Evening thrown down in an instant. You may also go to a little Hermitage two miles from the City, where Dervishes live; it stands upon a little Hill, above a great Village called Salahia.* 1.444 There you may see the Cave where the seven Sleepers hid themselves when they were Persecuted by Decius, who would have made them renounce the Christian Faith, and where they slept till the time of Theodosius the Younger. This is a very pleasant place, and the more, that from thence one may see all the Countrey about Damascus. Three Leagues from thence towards the way of Baal bel,* 1.445 is the place where they say, Cain slew his Brother Abel, and where also they Sacrificed. You must also go to a Village called Jobar, half a League from the City, inhabited only by Jews, who have a Synagogue there, at the end of which on the right side there is a Grott four paces square, with a hole and seven steps cut in the Rock, to go down to it: They say, that this is the place where the Prophet Elias hid himself, when he fled from the Persecution of Queen Jezabel. The hole by which the Ravens brought him Victuals for the space of forty days,* 1.446 is still to be seen there. There are three little Presses in this Grott serving to set three Lamps in. A League and a half from thence is the place where (as they say) the Patriarch Abraham gave Battel to the five Kings, who carried away his Nephew Lot,* 1.447 and overcame them. Damascus which the Turks call Cham,

is very well situated; seven Rivers run by it, and it is encompassed all round almost with two Walls, and little Ditches. The Houses are not handsome on the out-side being built of Brick and Earth, but within they are most Beautiful, and have all generally Fountains. The Mosques, Bagnio's and Cof∣fee-Houses are very fair and well Built. But let us return to Nazareth, which I passed not, hoping to see Damascus by another way, as I shall relate hereafter.

The Reader may find a more ample description of Damascus in the Second Part Of these TRAVELS.

CHAP. LIX. Our return to Acre. A Description of Mount Carmel.

AFter we had seen Nazareth and all that is to be seen about it, we took leave of the Father Guardian of Nazareth, and parted on Sunday the twelfth of May, about two a Clock in the Afternoon.

Monday the thirteenth of May we parted from Acre about four a Clock in the Evening in a small Bark, to go to Mount Carmel ten miles from Acre; we had a fair Wind, but so high, that our Rudder broke, which being quickly mended again with some Nails, we sailed only with a fore Sail, and about six a Clock at night, arrived at the Village of Cayphas,* 1.448 before which we were taken by the Corsair mentioned before. This Village which was formerly a Town, stands at the foot of Mount Carmel; we went up the Mount, and about seven a Clock came to the Convent, which is held by barefooted Carmelites.* 1.449 There we found two French Fathers and an Italian Brother, who had been twenty years there. They observe a very severe Rule, for beside that they are removed from all Worldly Conversation, they neither eat Flesh nor drink Wine, and if they need it, they must go to another place, as the Superiour at that time did, for being asthmatick, and pining away daily, he was forced to go to Acre, there to recruit himself for some days: Nor do they suffer Pilgrims to eat Flesh in their Convent, only they allow them to drink Wine. This Convent is not on the top of the Mount, where they had a lovely one, before the Christians lost the Holy Land, the ruines whereof are still to be seen; but is a very little one somewhat lower, and needs no more but three Monks to fill it, who would have much adoe to subsist, if they had not some Alms given them by the French Merchants of Acre, that go often thither to their Devoti∣ons. They have possessed this place thirty years, since the time they were driven out of it, after that the Christians lost the Holy Land; it is the place where the Prophet Elias lived, and their Church is the very Grott where sometimes he abode, which is very neatly cut out of the Rock: From this Con∣vent they have an excellent Prospect, especially upon the Sea, where there is no bounds to their sight. About their Convent they have a pretty Hermitage very well Cultivated by the Italian Brother, who hath brought all the Earth that is in it thither; and indeed, it is very pleasant to see Flowers and Fruits growing upon a Hill that is nothing but Rock. These good Monks gave us a very neat Collation of nine or ten Dishes of Fruit, and then we went to rest in the apartment of the Pilgrims; for though it be a very little place, yet they have made a small, commodious and very neat Lodging for Pilgrims, but they must not exceed the number of six. Next day the fourteenth of May, we

performed our Devotions in that holy place, and then left the Convent about eight a Clock in the morning, that we might go visit the places of Devotion about it. Our guide was one of the French Fathers, who fearing we might be Robbed by the Arabs, made us carry upon our shoulders sticks in the manner of Musquets. At a good Leagues distance from the Convent, we saw a Well that the Prophet Elias made to spring out of the Ground, and a little over it, another no less miraculous, the waters of both are very pleasant and good. The Arabs say, that all the while the Monks were absent after they had been Banished from thence, they yielded no Water. Close by this last Fountain are stately ruines of the Convent of St. Brocard, who was sent thither by St. Albert, Patriarch of Jerusalem, to Reform the Hermites, that lived there without rule or community;* 1.450 it hath been a lovely Convent. Not far from thence is the Garden of the Stone-Melons, and they say, that Elias passing that way, demanded in Charity a Melon from a man that was gathering some, who in contempt answered Elias that they were Stones and not Melons, where∣upon all the Melons were immediately turned into Stones; when I prayed them to conduct me to that Garden, They made me answer, that they knew not the way, but after that, they told me privately, that they were unwilling to carry me thither, because we were too many in company, and that there being but few of these Melons there at present, if every one took what he listed, no more would remain; but they made me a present of one. After we had seen these places, we returned to the Convent about eleven of the Clock, and having Dined on good fresh Fish,* 1.451 we went to see the Grotts of the holy Prophets, Elias and Elisha, that are near to the Convent; there is also a third, but it is full of Earth, and the door walled up. Lower down, towards the foot of the Mountain, is the Cave where the Prophet Elias taught the People; it is all cut very smooth in the Rock both above and below; it is about twenty paces in length, fifteen in Breadth, and very high; and I think it is one of the lovliest Grotts that can be seen. The Turks have made a little Mosque there. Mount Carmel and all the Country about,* 1.452 is commanded by a Prince named the Emir Tharabee, who pays yearly to the Grand Signior a Tribute of twelve Horses. Having thanked the Fathers for their Civility, which we acknowledged by a charitable Gratuity, we embarked again about four a clock in the Afternoon, in the same Bark that had brought us, and arrived at Acre about seven at Night.

CHAP. LX. The way from Acre to Soursayde, Baruth, Tripoly and Mount Libanus; and from Tripoly, to Alep∣po, with what is to be seen in these places.

I shall here make a little digression from my Travels, and observe what is to be seen in those quarters. The first night you leave Acre, you Lodge at Sour; about half way there is a Tower near the Sea, where a Caffare must be paid. About an hour and a half before you come to Sour, a few steps from the Sea-side, you find a Well of an octogone figure, about fifteen foot in diameter, which is so full of Water, that one may reach it with the Hand, and (as they say) they have often attempted to sound the depth of it, with several Camels load of Rope, but could never find the bottom. It is taken to be the Well of Living Waters, mentioned in the Canticles.

The Town of Sour is upon the Sea-side, and was anciently called Tyre; there it was that our Lord Cured the Canaanitish Womans Daughter. There

are lovely Antiquities to be seen in this place. From Sour you have a days Journey to Sayde, and there is a Tower upon this Road also, where there is a Caffare to be paid. Sayde is a pretty Town upon the Sea-side, and the Ancient name of it was Sydon. Before the Town there is a little Fort Built in the Sea. The Countrey about Sayde is lovely, and full of Gardens; among others, there are two about two Musquet Shot from the Town,* 1.453 that are full of ex∣cellent Orange-Trees, wherein they shew the Sepulchre of Zebulon, one of the twelve Sons of Israel. Next day you may go and lye at Baruth. About an hours travelling from Sayde to Baruth, there is to the right hand a Village called Gie, with a great deal of Sand about it; and they say, that that is the place where the Whale cast out Jonas, after he had been three days in the Belly of it. There are two Caffares to be paid on that Road. The Soil about Baruth is pleasant and good, bearing abundance of White Mul∣berry-Trees, for the Silk-Worms. Having next day travelled half a League from Baruth, you see a Cave on the right hand, which was heretofore the Den of a huge Dragon. Two hundred paces further, there is a Greek Church upon the same Ground, (as they say) where St. George Killed that Dragon, when it was about to have Devoured the Daughter of the King of Baruth. Half an hours travelling from thence, there is a Bridge, called Baruth's Bridge, of six Arches; and there is a Caffare to be paid there. About two hours Journey from that Bridge, you find another, under which, runs a River, called in Arabick Naor el Kelb, that is to say, the Dogs River, without doubt, because there is a Ring cut in the Rock, to which is fastened a great Dog, cut on the same Rock, that is still to be seen in the Sea. They say, that in times past, that Dog Barked by Enchantment, when any Fleet came, and that his Bark was heard four Leagues off. A little above the descent where the Dog is, this Inscription is cut in great Characters upon the Rock. IMP. CAES. M. AURELIUS. ANTONINUS. PIUS. FELIX. AUGUSTUS. PART. MARI. BRITANNIUS. At the end of this Bridge, there is a Marble-Stone eleven Span long, and five broad, on which is an Inscription of six lines in Arabick Characters. From thence you go and lodge at Abrahim. The day follow∣ing, you lye at Tripoly; by the way on the Sea-side,* 1.454 you see the Towns of Gibel, Patron, and Amphe. Tripoly is a very pretty Town with a neat Castle, at the foot of which, a little River runs; several Gardens full of Orange-Trees, and White-Mulberries, encompass the Town, which is a mile from the Sea, where there are several Towers planted with Cannon to defend the Coast. Here it was that St. Marina being accused of Incontinence, did Penance in Mans Apparrel. Next day you go to Mount Libanus,* 1.455 about five Hours and a halfs travelling from Tripoly, you come to Lodge at Cannobin, which is a Village where the Patriarch of Mount Libanus Lives; there is a Church and Monastery in it. The day following, you go to the Cedars, which are an hour and a halfs going from Cannobin, and you pass through a pretty Village, called Eden, which is about an hour from Cannobin.* 1.456 It is a Foppery to say, that if one reckon the Cedars of Mount Libanus twice, he shall have a different number, for in all, great and small, there is neither more nor less, than twenty three of them. All that Inhabit this Mountain, are Maronite Christians. Having seen Mount Libanus, you come back to Tri∣poly; from whence, if you have a mind to go to Aleppo, you must take the following Road from Tripoly;* 1.457 you come to lodge at a Castle called the French Castle, standing upon a high Hill, which was Built in the time of Godfrey of Boulloin. From thence you have a days Journey to Ama, which was here∣tofore a fair large Town, but at present is half ruined, tho' it still contains some lovely Mosques, and Houses Built of black and white Stones interming∣led. At the end of the Town, there is a great Castle upon a Hill, almost all ruined and uninhabited; the Walls of it are very thick and high, built of pretty black and white Stones disposed in several Figures, and the little of them that remains, shews their ancient Beauty. The Gate of the Castle is adorned with Inscriptions in Arabick Letters, and the entry into it, is made like a Court of Guard. There is an Oratory on the South side of it, like to those wherein the Turks say their Prayers. There are several Grotts well wrought in it, and a great many Magazines, which served formerly to

hold Provisions and Amunition.* 1.458 The River Assi, or Orontes, runs by the side of this Castle, and fills the Ditches about it, that are cut in the Rock, and very deep: It runs also through the whole Town, where it turns eight∣teen great Wheels, which raise the Water two Pikes height into Channels that lye upon great Arches, and convey it not only to the Fountains of the Town, but also without, into the Gardens. You must also see a Mosque that stands near the River, and over against the Castle, before the door of which there is a Pillar of most lovely Marble erected, with the figures of Men, Birds, and other Animals, very well cut in Demy Relief upon it. In this Mosque there is a very pleasant Garden,* 1.459 full of Orange-Trees, by the River-side. From Ama, you go and lodge at Marra, which is a sorry Town commanded by a Sangiac, and there is nothing in it worth the observing, but the Han you lodge in, which is covered all over with Lead, and is very spacious, being capable of Lodging eight hundred Men and their Horses, with ease. In the middle of this Han there is a Mosque with a lovely Fountain, and a Well two and forty Fathom deep from the top to the Water, is still to be seen there. About sixscore Years ago, that Han was Built by Mourab Chelebi, great Tefterdar, when he made the Pilgrimage of Mecha. About fifty paces from thence, there is another old Han half ruined, having a door of Black Stone, of one entire piece seven span long, four and a half broad, and a span thick; on which two Crosses like those of Malta, with Roses and other Figures, are cut in Demy Relief. From Marra you go and lye at Aleppo.

CHAP. LXI. The Road fram Tripoly to Aleppo, by Damascus.

THose who have never seen Damascus may go to it from Tripoly, in three good days Journey, and from thence to Aleppo, by the way following. From Damascus, the first nights Lodging is at Cotaipha; one half of the way thither, is over most pleasant and fruitful Plains, abounding with Fruit-Trees, Olive-Trees, and Vines, and watered by seven little Rivers, and several Brooks, where you see by the way a great many Villages in the Countrey about, to the number, (as the People of the Countrey say) of above three hundred and fifty. The rest of the way is very Barren and Moun∣tainous.* 1.460 There is at Cotaipha the lovelyest Han that is to be seen in the whole Countrey. In the middle of this Han there is a Fountain that dis∣charges its water into a great Pond. There is plenty of all things necessary therein, and a thousand Men and Horse may be commodiously lodged in it. About fourscore years since, Sinan Basha the Grand Visier, passing through that Countrey upon his way to Mecha and Hyemen, caused it to be Built; as you go into it, you must pass through a great Square Court, walled in like a Castle. It hath two Gates, one to the South, and the other to the North, upon each of which, there are three Culverines mounted, to defend the Place. There is a Caffare to be paid there. From Cotaipha, the next Nights Lodging is at Nebk; and upon the Road, five hours travelling from Cotaipha you see an old Castle, called Castel, or Han el Arous, that is to say, the Brides Han, standing in a very Barren place, and environed by Mountains. Nebk is Situated upon a little Hill, at the foot of which are Gardens full of Fruit-Trees, and watered by a small River, over which there is a handsom Bridge of four Arches. Next day when you have Travelled two Hours, you pass by a Village called Cara, which contains two Hans and a Greek Church, Dedicated to the Honour of St. George. For half a League round this Vil∣lage there is nothing but Gardens full of Fruit-Trees, watered by little Brooks. Two Leagues from thence, you find a Castle called Cosseitel, and without

the walls of it, is a Fountain that runs into a Pond twenty paces long; then you come to Lodge at Assia, which is a Han for lodging of Travellers. As you go to it, you pass through a large Court, walled in like a Fort, having a very lovely Fountain in the middle, which discharges its Water by four Pipes, and at the Back of the Han there is a Spring of Water that fills a Pond. From Assia you go next day to Hems: About mid way, you find a sorry Han,* 1.461 called Chempsi.

Hems is a pretty Town indifferently big, the Walls whereof are of black and white Stones, and half a Pikes height almost all round, fortified with little round Towers, to the number of six and twenty; formerly they were begirt with Ditches, which at present are for the most part filled up with ruines. This Town hath six Gates, and there are five Churches in it. The first is very great, and is supported with four and thirty Marble-pillars, most part Jaspirs, it is threescore and ten paces long, and eighteen broad: Within on the South-side, there is a little Chappel, where you may see a Stone-Chest or Case set in the Wall, five spans in length, and three in breadth, wherein the people of the Country, (not only Christians,* 1.462 but Moors) believe the head of St. John Baptist to be, and therefore the Moors make great account of it, and have commonly a Lamp burning before it. They say, that on certain days of the year, some drops of Blood distill from that Case. There are also many other long and round pieces of Marble built in the Wall, inscribed with Greek Characters, and very artfully engraven with Roses and other Figures. St. Helen built that Church, which was long possessed by the Christians of the Countrey, but, at length, about an hundred and sixty years ago, was usurped by the Turks, and serves them at present for their chief Mosque; the Roof that is supported by these Pillars, has been lately renewed, and is only of Wood ill put together. Christians are suffered to enter into it. By the side of it without, there is a great Pond where the Turks make their Ablutions before they go into it. At the door of this Mosque, there are two Marble-Pillars twenty span long, lying along upon the Ground. From thence, you go to another Church held by the Moors, called St. George's; the Christians of the Country may perform their Devotions there, paying for half the Oyl that is consumed in it. The third is dedicated to the Honour of our Lady, and is possessed by the Christians of the Countrey.* 1.463 The fourth is held by the Greeks, and is called Arbaine Chouade, which is to say, forty Martyrs; it is very neat, supported by five Pillars, whereof four are Marble, and the fifth Porphyrie, wrought and cut in the form of a Screw.* 1.464 The fifth Church is called St. Merlian, alias St. Julian; the People of the Countrey say, that his Body is there, in a Sepulchre of most excellent Marble, standing behind the Altar, made like a Beer or Coffin, with a high ridged cover: At the four Corners there are four Balls of the same Marble, and twelve Crosses round it in Demy Relief. This Sepulchre is ten Spans long, five broad, and as much in height, seeming to be all of one entire piece.* 1.465 Six hundred paces West-ward from the Gate, called Bab Jeoundy, that is to say, the Jews Gate, there is a Pretty big Pyramid, wherein the People of the Countrey believe, that Caius Caesar the Nephew of Augustus, is buried. Upon a Hill to the South of the Town, there is a Castle built like that of Ama, which I mentioned in the foregoing Chapter, but it is not so ruinous, though it be uninhabited, as well as the other. They say, that heretofore both of them were held by the Christians, who endured long and hard Sieges, before they surrendred them to the Turks; and that's the reason that the Grand Signior has commanded that they should not be Repaired nor Inhabited. The Han where Travellers lodge, is fifteen paces without the Walls of the Town, on the North-side from Hemps. The next Lodging is at Ama. About half way there is a little Oratory, which they say, was built by the Franks; it is at present Inhabited by a Moorish Scheik. A little further there is a ruined Village upon a Hill. Near to that is the Han where Travellers (that have a mind to stop there) may Lodge. After that, you pass over a Bridge of ten Arches, called Dgeser Rustan, that is to say Rustans Bridge, which is very neat, and has the River Assi running underneath it. I have said enough of Ama in the Chapter before.* 1.466 Betwixt Hemps and Ama is the Countrey, which the People that live there

say, was inhabited by Job and his Family, but half of it is not Cultivated. The day following you Lodge at Scheicon Han, that is to say, the Han Scheick; it is a very old Han, having on the Gate a Marble-Stone, six spans long, and four spans broad, upon which are engraven six lines in Arabick Characters, and on the two sides there are also two round stones of Marble,* 1.467 upon each where∣of there is a Chalice with its Paten, very well Engraven. From Scheicon Hani you go to Marra; of which I have spoken in the preceeding Chapter. Next day you go to Han Serakib. Upon the Road you see some ruinous Villages, whereof that which is most entire, is called Han Mercy, built in form of a Castle, having four Towers in the four Corners, three square, and one round; this Han is four Hours going from Marra, and about twenty paces short of it on the left hand, you see five great Sepulchres, in one whereof a Basha is In∣terred, having his Turban cut in Marble, at one end of his Tomb. In an old Building fifteen paces distant from the Gate of that Han Serakib, there is a Well almost square, which is two and forty Fathom deep before you come at the Water, as well as that of Marra; about fourscore paces from thence, there is a pitiful Village little Inhabited, though there be good Land about it.* 1.468 From Han Serakib, you have a days Journey to Han Touman: Upon the Road to the left hand, you see a pretty handsome Town, called Sermin, and three or four ruinous Villages, having been forsaken because of the Robberies of the Arabs. About forty Years since, Han Touman was rebuilt by a Basha of Aleppo, called Hisouf Basha, who put into it an Aga with fifty Soldiers, and ten little Culverines,* 1.469 to keep it against the Arabs, who formerly committed frequent Robberies thereabouts. The River of Aleppo, called Singa, runs hard by it, and turns two Mills not far from thence. From Han Touman, you go to Aleppo, in three or four Hours time.

CHAP. LXII. Our setting out from Acre to Damiette, and our meeting with Italian Corsairs.

* 1.470WE staid at Acre four days, expecting a passage for Damiette, but at length, finding two Sanbiquers of Cyprus, which were both bound for Damiette, we resolved to go along with them; and having sent for the Reys of that Sanbiquer that was a Greek, Monsieur de Bricard the Consul, took the pains to make a Bargain for us,* 1.471 and recommended us to him. Sanbiquers are Vessels made like Galliotts, but longer; the Stern and Stem of them, are made much alike, only in the Poop, there is a broad Room under Deck; there are several Banks for Rowers, according to the length of the Sanbiquer, and each Oar is managed by two Men. Ours had twelve Oars on each side; but besides, it had a great Mast with a very large Sail; so that being light Loaded, no Galley could be too hard for one of them, if their Oars were long enough, but they have them very short. The Wind offering fair for us, we took our Provisions and went on board our Sanbiquer, Sunday the nineteenth of May, about three a Clock in the Afternoon, the other Sanbiquer being in company with us. We were much afraid of Corsairs still, and especially of him who had taken us be∣fore; not only because his Men had said, That if they had killed us, they would not have been obliged to make Restitution of any thing, but also least they might have accused us of being the cause that the Turks had come out against them, and so used us the worse for that. However we met with nothing consi∣derable till next day, being Monday the twentieth of May, that about Sun∣setting we passed by a Tower, about twelve Miles from Jaffa; when we were come near to that Tower, they fired some great and Small shot at us, which

much surprised us, but more when we saw that they made great Fires all along the Coast, and especially upon the Towers. We knew not the cause of this, (which I shall tell hereafter) only we concluded that they took us for Pirats. When we came near to Jaffa, we perceived a great Fire upon the Tower, and then about nine a Clock at Night, offering to put into the Harbour to take in Wood and Water, they fired at us both great and small Shot: Then our Reys went upon the Poop, and called out as loud as he could, that he was such a Man, Reys of a Sanbiquer, calling by Name those whom he knew at Jaffa; but we had no other answer from within but Alarga, that is to say, that we should stand off, and with that another Volley of great and small Shot: When this Musick had lasted about an Hour, they continually Firing, and our Reys calling to them and making a heavy Noise, the other Sanbiquer stood in nearer than we, and the Reys calling as loud as ever he could, made them at length hear him, and the Greeks who were at Jaffa to know him: Then in stead of Alarga, they called to us Taala, which exceedingly rejoyced us; and the meaning of that was, that we should come in, so that we entered the Port about ten a Clock at Night. For my part, I was afraid it might have been a Trick, that so they might have easily sunk us when we were got nearer. But it proved other∣wise, for we were received as Friends. We found all the People in Arms, ready to flie, and the Women and Children were already gone from Jaffa. Here we had the comfort to be pittied, that we should have been Rifled even by Christians, for they knew us as having been once before at Jaffa, and had had intelligence of our being taken. We stayed at Jaffa for fair Weather until Friday, the four and twentieth of May, when the Wind presenting, we set out about Noon, and within two or three Hours after, were got out of sight of Land; the Wind calming in the Evening, we came to an Anchor, and next Morning, Saturday the five and twentieth of May, by break of day we weigh∣ed, and sailed upon a Wind; about three or four a Clock in the Afternoon we made Land, and standing in to it, came to an Anchor at Sun-setting, not being able to weather a Cape on head of us, because the Wind was contrary. Next day being Sunday, the six and twentieth of May, we weighed by break of day, and presently made two Sail, whereof the one seemed to be a Ship, and the other a Galliot; we rowed off from them as much as we could, and at length (after some hours) lost sight of them, but about Noon again we saw the Galliot a stern of us. Our Consort ran presently ashoar, and instead of doing the like, we rowed and made all the sail we could, so that in a short time we lost sight of the Galliot once more; but making her again a little af∣ter, we rowed again a little, and so lost sight of her the third time. At first when we made those Sails, my mind misgave me that some Misfortune attended us; and indeed I was an unlucky Prophet, for I told the rest, that as yet we were too far from Damiette to be taken, and that as we had been already taken within ten Miles of Acre, so we should be taken within ten Miles of Da∣miette. Having then lost sight of that Galliot once more, about six a Clock at Night we came to an Anchor at a place, from whence we could see three Vessels riding at an Anchor also. Our design was, so soon as it should be Night and calm, to endeavour to double a point of Land that we were not far short of, and then we would have been pretty near Damiette, and avoided that which befel us, but our Company slept too long; for Monday, the seven and twentieth of May, they turned out about two hours before day, and having weighed Anchor, made all the way they could with Sails and Oars, but at break of day when we were not twenty miles from Damiette, we saw two Cayques full of Men coming against us; then would our Company have stood back again, but it was too late. And the Cayques making up with all speed, a Turk who was a Passenger with us, tied his bundle about his Neck, and jump∣ing over-board, got quickly ashoar without the loss of any thing; the rest, whether it was that they could not Swim so well, or that they hoped we might gain shoar before they could board us, did not imitate him. I had then some apprehensions, that they as well as the Corsairs, might discharge their choler upon us who were Franks. But at length the Cayques being come within Mus∣quet-shot of us, all the Turks who were Passengers in our Sanbiquer, leaped over-board to save themselves on shoar, and the Greeks having fired the two

Petreras they had, did the same. It pitied me much to see these poor People flie from their own House (for so I call their Sanbiquer) and to leave all their Goods to the Plunder and Discretion of those Mad-men, carrying nothing with them but a Chaplet or two of certain Bisket, which they sell strung upon Chap∣lets. Presently one of the Caiques fired a Cros-bar Shot out of a Blunderbuss into our Poop,* 1.472 which had it hit but a hands breadth lower, would have killed us all, and sunk the Sanbiquer to rights; but seeing no body appear on board of us, they made after those who were making their escape to shoar, for being near land, the water was very shallow, which made the Soldiers (finding ground) to jump into the Sea, with a Sword in one hand and a Pistol in the other, and pursue the poor Wretches, firing at those whom they could not overtake: In the interim, I prayed our Capucin and another French Monk that was with us, to go up upon the Deck, and put out a white Flag, which they did; and putting up a Handkerchief upon the end of a stick, called in French to those who remained in the Caiques, that we were French; they bid us lower our Sail, which we easily did, but it was so great that we could not furl it. In the mean time, it covered all our Sanbiquer, and they fearing there might be more still hid underneath, durst not come; but having told them, that with∣out their assistance they could not furl it, and that they need not fear any thing, they came on board, where knowing us to be Franks, they offered us not the least injury as the former had done, only took of our baggage and things what they found here and there in the Vessel, though we ourselves kept still a good share of them.

It was then a sad spectacle to see the Soldiers return loaded with Spoyl, lead∣ing by the hand those whom they had taken a-shoar, and who were all stript to the shirt as soon as they had been taken. When they were come on board our Sanbiquir, they search'd in all places to see if they could find any thing worth the taking, and made Captive seven Turks in all: Being all on board our San∣biquer or in their own Caiques, they carried us to their Ships; and by the way, told us, how they had made us the evening before, but that not having seen a Galliot which they had in company, for two days, they took our Sanbiquer for her, till next morning, when we stood close in by the shoar, they were con∣vinced it was not she, and that if they had not taken us for their Galliot, they would have given us a visite the same evening that they saw us.

CHAP. LXIII. Of what happened on Board the Corsairs so long as we were with them, and our Arrival at Damiette.

WIthin an hour, we came on board the Corsairs, being two Ships, the one Commanded by Captain Santi, called otherwise Ripuerto of Legorn, and the other by Captain Nicolo of Zante. We were made very welcome by these Captains, who divided us betwixt them: Our Monks went on board of Cap∣tain Santi, and we who were Seculars were taken into the Ship of Captain Nicolo. These two Ships were Consorts, and had on board each an hundred and forty Men, with fourteen Oars aside, which they could use in case of neces∣sity, setting two Men to each Oar. The Ship we were in had four and twenty Petreras, and two great Guns all of Brass, besides a great number of Muskets and Blunderbusses; and the other was as well armed: They had besides a Galliot which they had made of a Sanbiquer they had taken near to Scandaroon, and armed with six brazen Petreras, and a fair brass chase-Gun, having manned her with eighty of their Men, forty a piece, and that was the same Galliot which had given us the chase the day before: One of these Corsairs had been six and thirty, and the other forty Months out at Sea.

I wondred to see on board the Ship where we were, several Slaves, Men, Women and Children, and they told me that they had taken most of them at Castel Peregrino some days before, having surprised the Castle in this manner. When they had took this Sanbiquer, which (as I said) they turned into a Galliot, a Turk about Scandaroon who was taken in her, made a Proposal to them, that if they would give him his liberty, he would put them in a way of taking many Slaves: They presently made him a Promise, but he not trusting to their Word (for all he was a Turk) made them Swear it before an Image of our Blessed Lady, and another of St. Francis. When they had given their Oath, he made them steer their course toward Castel Peregrino, which is a pitiful little open Castle betwixt Acre and Jaffa, ten miles below Mount Carmel, on the way to Jaffa. They took their measures so well, that they were not at all perceived, and having immediately landed, they went without any noise to the Habitation, where being come, they began to appear in their Colours,* 1.473 carry∣ing away all living Creatures, Men, Women and Children, and killing all, without regard to Age or Sex, that would not willingly go along with them; insomuch that some Soldiers told me, that they had killed young Maids, who notwithstanding they had seen others that would not follow, killed before their faces, chose rather to be put to Death, than to be made Slaves. They shewed me one of their Officers, to whom a Soldier brought a Child four months old, telling him, Here is a Slave for you; who in a barbarous manner taking the innocent Infant by one foot, and saying, What would you have me to do with this, threw it from him (as if it had been a stone) as far as he could on the ground. They made on this occasion above fifty Slaves, Men, Women and Children.

The Turk who was their Guide, having brought them on board, they took off his Chain, and he went to look for more, never thinking of making his escape, either because he trusted to their Oath, or else perhaps, because he was afraid to have met in that Countrey with the reward of his Treachery. They killed more than they took, and left not so much as a living Soul in the place; and that was the cause of the great allarm they were put into on that Coast, when we sailed along it from Acre to Jaffa.

It was a sad spectacle to see on board this Ship so many poor Women, with their Children at their breasts, having no greater allowance than a little mouldy Bisket and two glasses of stinking Water a day, which was all the Men had also; but among others, there was one Woman Slave on board, with her Husband, Brother, seven Children, and one in her Womb: All this together caused a great clutter and nastiness in the Ship; nay, there was one little Child ill of the Small-pox, which made me afraid of catching the same Disease.

We were no better treated than the Slaves,* 1.474 for they were in great want of Provisions, and had so little Water, that they were obliged to distribute it by measure, giving every one two glasses a day. Our Diet then, consisted of two meals a day, both alike, one at noon, and the other at night, and these were a little mouldy Bisket of all colours, which, to season and soften it, was steep'd in Water that stunck so horridly, that it smelt all over the Cabin, and getting into our throat as we broke the Bisket with our teeth, was like to have turned our stomacks: A little Cheese we had also that might have kept along time, for it needed a Hatchet to cut it: Our Drink was the same stinking Water, with a very little coat of Wine upon it; and in the night-time we lay upon the deck, amidst the Vermine and filth of the poor Wretches; our Monks were better accommodated, as they told us afterwards. However I was not alto∣gether disheartned by this adversity, on the contrary, was fain to encourage the rest, who thought themselves half dead already, and apply'd my self to consider what way we might be delivered out of this misery. With their two Ships they had a great Saique, which they had taken a few days before, and some Greeks coming to redeem her, had offered a thousand Piastres for her; but these Gentlemen demanding fifteen hundred, the Greeks went away, promising however to come back again; which I having understood from the Captain (who was as willing to be rid of us as we were to be gone, because we lessened his stinking Provisions,) we prepared to go to Damiette with them: The Corsairs would willingly have set us ashoar, if we had pleased, but we would by no

means accept of that offer, for fear of having been taken for Corsairs, and so immediately burnt alive; and it was too fresh in my memory what I had been told of other Franks, who having escaped from Shipwreck, and coming a-shore, thought they came very well off when they were only made Slaves. In the mean time, the Galliot came up with the Ships, Tuesday morning, the eight and twentieth of May; she had taken a Saycot, which was the sail we had seen with her, but she let it go, as not worth their while to stay for it.

On Wednesday the nine and twentieth of May, about an hour before day, a Polaque fell in among us, and running foul of our Sanbiquer that was towed at the stern of one of the Ships, made a hole in her side: The Corsairs were immiediately allarmed, and firing some small Shot into the Polaque, manned their Boats to take her. On the other hand, those on board the Polaque, who were either drunk or asleep, awaking at the knock which their Polaque gave in striking against the Sanbiquer, and being sensible of their fault, betook them∣selves in all haste to their Caique, and endeavoured to make their escape by rowing, but being closely pursued, they were soon come up with, and of one and twenty Turks that were in it, twelve leaped into the Sea to swim, though the nearest land was above six miles off, and the nine that remained, were brought on board the Ship: I asked them how they came to be so neg∣ligent in looking after their Vessel, and they told me, that thinking themselves to have been near the mouth of the Nile before Damiette, they were fallen asleep, which was the worst excuse they could have made, seeing they ought to have been afraid that their Polaque might have run a-ground. There were some Bales of Soap in that Polaque.

The same day, the Corsairs finding that the Greeks (to whom the Saique that they had taken belonged,) came not again, resolved to burn her; but know∣ing that the more mischief they did, the harder it would be for us to get a-shore, I prayed the Captain not to burn her, and at my request, having taken away all her Sails and Rigging, they let her go a drift, and not long after, we saw her run a-shore. In the same manner they unrigg'd our Sanbiquer, and having set her a drift also, she was cast away in our sight.

After that, we steered our course toward Damiette, to take in fresh water at the mouth of the Nile: This resolution made us greatly rejoyce, for good fresh water would have been (at that time) a great Treat for us, besides that, being near to the place where we desired to be, we hoped still to find some expedient of getting safe a-shore: We stood in as near as we could, and next day, being Thursday the thirtieth of May, about ten a clock in the morning, we were got before the mouth of the Nile, and the Galliot went in to take fresh water, in spight of the Guns of the Fort: Our Ships had a mind to do the like, and put out a white Flag, that they might see whether they would let us come a-shore, or ransome any of the Slaves they had on board: We expected with great impatience that they should have put out a white Flag on the Castle, and were making ready to go quickly to Damiette with all safety, when (as ill luck would have it) he that look'd out from the main top-mast head, made four Sail: Immediately they changed their white Flag into a red, though I offered to tell them, that it was ill done to fall foul of those Sails, which perhaps, only stood in because they had seen white Colours abroad; but they made answer, that seeing the Castle had not put out a white Flag, they were no ways obliged; so that they gave chase to those four Vessels, and the Castle fired several Shot at us, without any effect, unless perhaps they served to give warning to those Saiques to make away as fast as they could: Three of them made their escape, and the fourth (wich was a Saycot) run a-shore, and all that were on board, got to land and saved themselves: Our Caiques were manned out, who finding in her nothing but Wood, wherewith she was loaded, and the Reys all alone (who was a Greek) they left her there, and him in her, and so came back to the Ships.

Next day, being Friday the last of May, having by break of day made a Saique, we gave her the chase also till about noon: While we were in pursuit of her, we heard four Guns, and our Corsairs thinking it might be some other Corsair come upon the Coast, who was in chase of some Saycot, made all the speed they could with Sails and Oars after the Saique; for our parts, our wishes

were contrary to theirs, for we always prayed to God, that they might not come up with her; still reckoning, that the less mischief they did, the bet∣ter it would be for us; however they laboured so hard, that they gained ground on her, and manned out their Cayque to Board her; then they who were in the Sayque, (finding that they could not make their Escape) surrendred themselves; and another Saycot seeing this, though she was above six miles off of us, came without being pursued, and Surrendred of her own accord, in hopes of better usage; and both these two, were only loaded with Carob Beans. Towards the Evening, the Galliot, which had been out a Cruising, (as she daily did) came up with our Ships, and told us that they had met with a Turkish Galliot, and having laid her a thwart the Hass, they met with stout resistance; the Turks who were on board of her, having a naked Sword between their Teeth, and a Musquet in their hands; so that finding they could do no good on her that way, they left the Head, and set upon her on the Stern, but they found as hot service there, as they had done before, and were even in danger of having been taken by the Turks: They Boarded her again the third time, but could make nothing on't; on the contrary, the Turks were like to have mastered them; so that having three of their Men Killed, and seven wounded, they were fain to come off with Disgrace. Du∣ring that Engagement, they had fired some shot with their Chase-Gun, which were the Guns we had heard in the Morning, and if the Ships had stood that way, from whence they heard the Guns, as the Maximes of their trade requi∣red, they would have easily taken that Galliot; but being unwilling to save a certain for an uncertain Booty, they missed of that fair hit.

This Engagement afflicted us, because it made our condition worse and worse, nevertheless, we prayed our Captain to let go that Saycot, which had voluntarily surrendred, to the end, that she going to Damiette, we might go with her, and that these men might tell a-shoar, that they had been obliged to us for having begged their Saycot for them. This Saycot being of small value, they easily granted our desires, and having taken out of her ten Sacks of Carobs, they set us on board and let her go, on Saturday the first of June. We entreated the Captain also to give us that Turk who had put them upon the exploit of Castel Peregrino; for seeing they had promised him his Liberty, before an Image of the Virgin, as their Soldiers told us, he might tell all People at Damiette, that we had procured him his freedom; not daring to tell the real cause of it, and so would have put us out of all danger; but they made us answer, that they would carry him back to his own Countrey; which made some of the Soldiers murmur a little, saying they could not fail of falling into some mischance, seeing they falsified their Promise made before the Image of the Blessed Virgin. We went then in that Saycot which came from Cyprus, and was bound for Damiette, and were not as yet out of dan∣ger; for if these Greeks had been malicious Rogues, they might have taken an opportunity to throw us over Board; not only to make themselves satisfaction for the small matter that was taken from them, by the little Goods we had, but also in revenge of the wrongs which the Franks daily do to the Greeks their Countrey men; and indeed, we took that resolution only that we might be delivered out of the miseries that we endured a Board of these Ships; for besides the bad entertainment we had there, (which we could not have born with much longer,) we were daily in danger of being taken and burn'd a live, or at least made Slaves if these Corsairs had been taken; as indeed it was to me a great wonder, that the Turks should suffer these Blades to stop the entry into Damiette, seeing they needed do no more but man out five or six good Sayques, with an hundred and fifty or two hundred men a piece, and fall upon these Corsairs, whom they might easily have taken. Besides that, we were hourly in danger of being wounded, if the Ships came to an Engage∣ment, and durst not defend our selves, for if we had once taken Arms, we must have laid aside all thoughts of setting Foot on Turkish Ground, where we might be known by one or other that had Escaped, or been Ransom'd out of the hands of the Corsairs. In reality, the life of a Corsair is a most wretched life, both for this World and the next; and certainly, there is nothing but I could do, rather than be engaged in it. When we left our

Corsairs, we were fifteen miles from Damiette, where we arrived in three hours time; and so soon as we came to the place where the water of the Nile mingles with the Sea, which is a good mile out at Sea from the mouth of the River, for the different colours of the River-water and Sea-water may easily be seen. There came out some Germes to unload our Saycot, because at this place, loaded Vessels cannot come in, for want of Water. These Germes are great Boats with high sides and very light; they are Lighters open fore and aft, having no Deck, that they may take in the more Goods. They came about us in such numbers, every one striving to be the first, that some of them were like to have run down our Saycot. When they had light∣tened us a little, and we were got into the mouth of the Nile, we took our Goods in again out of the Germes, and in half an hours time, went up the River to Damiette, about two miles from the mouth of it. For defence of this entry, there is only a sorry tower, in form of a Castle, wherein are some Guns mounted, which were those that Fired at the Corsairs. Being upon the Nile, we drank our Bellies full of good Water, thinking our selves to be come out of Hell into Paradice, as we came from Sea into a River; however we were still fearful of going a-shoar at Damiette; where being come, we quickly dispatched a Monk to find out the House of a French Man whom we knew to be there, the danger not being so great for a Religious Person, as for us: He speedily came back to us again, and having given some Crowns which we had saved from the Corsairs, to the Greeks of the Saycot, for they would needs be paid for our Passage, and that at a dear rate too, without calling to mind that we had begg'd their Saycot for them. We step'd a-shoar over the Galliot which had been the day before attacked by our Corsairs. We went to that French Merchants House, who made us very welcome, and told us, that that Galliot came from Satabia, and that they on Board were three hundred Men, having with them fifteen thousand Piastres, wherewith they were going to Trafick at Mecha, and that they had had one Man Killed, and three Wounded. Had our Corsairs minded their business as they should, they would have enriched themselves, for all these Turks were well Cloathed, and able to pay Ransoms, being all Rich; after we had rested our selves a little, we went to the Bishop of the Greeks, to acquaint him with our Disaster, and to desire his Protection and Certificate, that we were not Corsairs. Afterward we kept very private within doors, but the People of the Countrey were so far from abusing us, that they pitied our misfortune, and three Turks came to see us, and told us that they were of those that were on Board that Polaque, which ran foul of our Sanbiquer in the night-time, and had swam a-shoar. They asked us news of their Comrades that were made Slaves; and we desired to know of them what was become of the other nine, who jump'd into the Sea with them, but they told us that they could not tell what was become of them, they were certainly Drowned; and indeed, it requires a very good Heart to swim above two Leagues. We had no sight of Damiette,* 1.475 but upon our Arrival, not daring to walk abroad in the Streets; all we could observe was, that it is a very handsome well built long Town, yet not so long as Rossetto. It was anciently called Pelusium, and lyes upon a Branch of the River of Nile, which discharges it self into the Sea, two miles below this Town, that makes one Angle of the Delta.

CHAP. LXIV. Our Departure from Damiette, and Arri∣val at Caire.

TƲesday the fourth of June,* 1.476 we Embarked in a little Bark that we had hired for our selves, but the Wind not being good, we made but little way, till Thursday the sixth of June, when a fair Wind presenting, we past by Mansoura on the left hand. This is a pretty neat long Town,* 1.477 but we stopt not at it. Friday the seventh of June, we passed by Sammenud, on our right hand, which appears to be a Handsome Town, but it is ancient and rui∣nous. Saturday the eighth of June, we left Metegamr to the left hand,* 1.478 a pretty neat Town, half way betwixt Damiette and Caire. Monday the tenth of June, in the Morning, we passed by that place, where the River divides it self into two Channels, one whereof goes to Damiette, and the other to Rossetto, and at length, about eleven a Clock in the Forenoon, we arrived at Boulac, where we paid a Piastre a piece, and from thence we took Asses and rode to Caire, where the Merchants wondered to see us in so bad plight; for I had not so much as a pair of Pabouches, having lost them on board the Corsairs, and all the Cloathes I had were a Wast-coat, a pair of Drawers, and my Capot. How∣ever they had been informed that we had been twice taken by Corsairs, for it was known all along the Coast. And they thought we had been carried to Malta, and so many times I thought we should; for the Corsairs told us, that if they could but take a Prize that might be worth the pains, such as a good Sayque loaded with Rice, they would stand away for Malta.

CHAP. LXV. Of the Publication of the Growth of the Nile.

THE publication of the wonderful growth of the Nile,* 1.479 begins to be made on St. Peter and St. Paul's day, or the day before, that is to say, the eight and twentieth, or nine and twentieth day of June, and though that River begin almost always to encrease from the sixteenth or twentieth day of May, yet they publish it not before one of the days aforementioned, when it is already pretty well encreased; that is to say, betwixt six and a half, and eight Pics. The Pic is a Measure of twenty four fingers breadth. The Year before, the day when they begin to cry the growth of the Nile, it had encreased seven Pics and a half, according to what the Criers said; who nevertheless, though the Nile encreases seven, eight, or ten fingers a day, yet they never cry com∣monly more than two, three, or four, according as they agree about it among themselves, and keep the overplus till towards the end, when the Bank is near to be cut: They then add every day part of that which they have reserved to the real growth of that day they cry it on; and though it have not encreased above five or six fingers breadth, they'll cry that it is risen 23 or 24 fingers, to the end they may make the People joyful with the hopes of a good Year, and gain the more to themselves; so that at the end, their account is always just. They have another reason also why they reserve some fingers till the

end, and that is, If they cried all, some malicious person would look upon the Water with a bad eye (as they call it).* 1.480 For if a Man look upon a pretty Child, or any thing else, and saying it is lovely, if he add not presently, God grant it long life, or some such Benediction; they call that to look upon it with an evil eye, and believe that misfortune will befal the Child. It is the same with Beasts, and every thing else, as with Children: Wherefore they apply Garlick, and such other stuff, to their Children, to make them look ugly. And in the same manner, if they should declare all the growth of the Nile, they would be afraid some body might say, the Water is bravely increa∣sed in a short time, without wishing a blessing to it, and by such words occa∣sion the decrease of the Nile, which (as they believe) would bring a Famin all over the Land of Aegypt.* 1.481 They began then on the 28. of June, the Eye of St. Peter and St. Paul, to publish the growth of the Nile, which was encreased according to the Grand Signior's Measure, 8. Pics. The 29. it rose two fingers, the 30. 2. f. The first of July, 3. f. the 2. two f. the 3. 2. f. the 4. 3. f. the 5. 2. f. the 6. 3. f. the 7. 4. f. the 8. 2. f. the 9. 3. f. the 10. 4. f. the 11. 3. f. the 12. 3. f. the 13. 5. f. the 14. 4. f. the 15. 4. f. the 16. 5. f. the 17. 4. f. the 18. 4. f. the 19. 3. f. the 20. 3. f. the 21. 3. f. the 22. 4. f. the 23. 3. f. the 24. 4. f. the 25. 3. f. the 26. 3. f. the 27. 4. f. the 28. 5. f. the 29. 7. f. the 30. 8. f. the 31. 6; f. The first of August, 7. f. the 2. 4. f. the 3. 4. f. the 4. 3. f. the 5. 3. f. the 6. 4. f. the 7. 3. f. the 8. 3. f. the 9. 3. f. the 10. 4. f. the 11. 5. f. the 12. 10. f. the 13. 15. f. the 14. Ouff allah, which is to say, Abundance from God; and thereby it is understood, that the River is risen 16. Pics, of which if there wanted but one fingers breadth, they would not cut and open the Khalis. For if the Basha should open it before it were en∣creased 16. whole Pics, and the Year not prove good, the Grand Signior's Farmers in Aegypt, would not be obliged to pay any thing to the Grand Signior, and the Basha must answer for it; and opening it after it hath encreased 16. Pics, he is not responsable for the plentifulness or scarcity of the Year, but if being risen 16. Pics, he did not open it, and that afterwards it should diminish, he is answerable, as if he had opened it too soon. That day they cried 12. fingers. The 15. day the Khalis was opened (as I shall say hereaf∣ter) and they cried nothing but Ouff allah, and next day the sixteenth, how much more it was encreased, saying so many fingers upon the following Pic, to wit, The 16. 8. f. which are 14. f. of the 17. Pic. the 17. 4. f. which are 18. f. of the 17. Pic. the 18. 3. f. which are 21. f. of the 17. Pic. the 19. 2. f. which are 23. f. of the 17. P. the 20. 2. f. which are one finger of the 18. P. the 21. 2. f. which are 3. f. of the 18. P. the 22. the Nile grew none at all, and nothing was cried; the 23. 2. f. which are 5. f. of the 18. P. the 24. 3. f. which are 8. f. of the 18. P. the 25. 1. f. which makes 9. f. of the 18. P. the 26. 2. f. which are 11. f. of the 18. P. the 27. 4. f. which are 15. f. of the 18. P. the 28. 7. f. which are 22. f. of the 18. P. the 29. 6. f. which are 4. f. of the 19. P. the 30. 4. f. which are 8. f. of the 19. P. the 31. 4. f. which are 12. f. of the 19. P. The first of September 6. f. which are 18. f. of the 19. P. the 2. 5. f. which are 23. f. of the 19. P. the 3. 6. f. which are 5. f. of the 20. P. the 4. 4. f. which are 9. f. of the 20. P. the 5. 5. f. which are 14. f. of the 20. P. the 6. 4. f. which are 18. f. of the 20. P. the 7. 4. f. which are 22. f. of the 20. P. the 8. 5. f. which are 3. f. of the 21. P. the 9. 3. f. which are 6. f. of the 21. P. the 10. 3. f. which are 9. f. of the 21. P. the 11. 4. f. which are 13. f. of the 21. P. the 12. 3. f. which are 16. f. of the 21. P. the 13. 2. f. which are 18. f. of the 21. P. the 14. 3. f. which are 21. f. of the 21. P. the 15. 2. f. which are 23. f. of the 21 P. the 16. 3. f. which are 2. f. of the 22. P. the 17. 2. f. which are 4. f. of the 22. P. the 18. 2. f. which are 6. f. of the 22. P. the 19. 3. f. which are 9. f. of the 22. P. the 20. 2. f. which are 11. f. of the 22. P. the 21. 2. f. which are 13. f. of the 22. P. the 22. 3. f. which are 16. f. of the 22. P. the three and twentieth nothing, because it began to de∣crease. And the four and twentieth, which is Holy-Cross-Day, according to the Calender of the Greeks, they neither reckon nor cry any more, though it should encrease, as sometimes it does till October; and it is to be observed, that it decreases gently, and much in the same manner as it encreased, until the Month of May following.

CHAP. LXVI. Of the Ceremonies and Publick Rejoycings at the Opening of the Khalis.

WEdnesday the fourteenth of August,* 1.482 he that daily measures the encrease of the Nile, receives a Caftan from the Basha, because the Water was risen 16. Pics; and Thursday the fifteenth of August, we went to Boulac, to see the preparations that were making for the cutting of the Khalis; there we saw all the Acabas ranked in order. Acaba, they call great Barges or Barks,* 1.483 in the stern whereof they make a Hall or Divan of Timber, Painted, Gilt, and contrived like the Rooms of their Houses. This Hall may be fourteen or fifteen good Paces broad, and about the same in length, with Rails and Balisters of Joyners Work all round them; all this is Gilt, and full of Arabick Chara∣cters in Gold, and within they have several lovely Carpets and Cushions, after their way, Embroidered with Gold, and a Lanthorn; but in the Basha's, there are three Lanthorns. Besides that, they make a large Blaze or Flame aloft upon the Yard, and in the Head have several pieces of Cannon; upon the Basha's there were ten, and on the Snout of the stem, there is a Wooden Fi∣gure of some Animal, Gilt, as a Lyon, Tygre, Eagle, or the like; on the Basha's there was a Hydra. All the several Beys, the Sousbasha, and many other Officers have also each of them one, besides several other smaller made like Galliots. About seven or eight a Clock in the Morning, the Basha arri∣ved with the usual Cavalcade. When he goes to any such Solemnity, he is mounted on a stately Horse, in rich Trappings; and at this time he wore on his Head a lovely Flower of Diamonds. As he passed they killed Sheep in three or four places, and when he was about to enter into his Bark, three or four more were killed upon the River-side. Being with all the Beys entred into his Barge or Acaba, he went towards old Caire, and then all the Acabas salu∣ted him with their Guns, and followed him in order. The Basha's Acaba, be∣sides that it was Towed by three Barges, spread a Sail of many Colours, with a set of five great Red-Roses upon it, and after it came a little Galliot all covered over with Flags and Streamers, wherein were several Drums, Flutes, Trumpets, and such like Instruments, many others also had the like Galliots full of Musicians. And in short, all that Fleet together, made a very pleasant shew; for it was a delightful sight to see upon the Nile all these Aca∣bas, which were above forty in number, and all these pretty party-coloured Sails, with their sets of Flowers, all the Flags and streaming Flames, which look'd very fine. Nor did the noise of Cannon, the sound of infinite numbers of Instruments, and the shouts and acclamations of the People, contribute a little to the Magnificence of the Solemnity. In this manner they went gently along, firing now and then their Guns, till they came to the Bank which keeps out the Water from the Khalis. We could not see the opening made, be∣cause of the great crowd and confusion, but it signifies no great matter; for all that is to be seen, is a vast number of Rabble, who wait till the Basha pass; and on each side of the Dyke a Paper-Tower, with Walls of the same reaching to the Dyke, and stuck full of Squibs and Serpents, which as soon as the Basha passes are fired, and set one another on fire, whilst the People break down the Dyke with Pick-axes, Shovels, and such like Instruments, and removing the Earth make way for the Water. There are Boats loaded with Fruit and Sweet-meats (such as they make) which are thrown among the People, and one may have the pleasure to see them jump in, and swim for a share. In the mean time the Basha goes forward to his Serraglio, which is in the middle of the Nile hard by, and over against old Caire, and there stays during the three days that the Bonfires last. So soon as they have begun to break down the Bank, the Sousbasha, or his Lieutenant (as it happened this

Year) comes on Horse-back along the Khalis, and about eleven a Clock in the Forenoon, stops before the House of the French Consul, where he orders two Rockets to be played; and the Consul gives him five or six Piastres, which are his due every Year at that Ceremony; the like he does to all the other Consuls. About Noon the Water passes by the Quarters of the French, and advances with pretty much Rapidity, being full of Rabble. (As I related in the Description of the opening of the Khalis the Year before.) Much about the same time the Khalis of Alexandria, that fills the Cisterns of that Town, and all the other Khalis are opened. The same day in the Evening, we took a Cayque and went to old Caire, and as soon as we came near it, we began to see on all hands a shoar, and upon the Water a vast number of large Figures made of Lamps, placed in such and such order, as of Crosses, Mosques, Stars, Crosses of Malta, Trees, and an infinite number of the like, from one end of old Caire to the other. There were two Statues of Fire, representing a Man and a Woman; which at the farther distance they were seen, the more love∣ly they appeared: These Figures were two square Machines of Wood, two Pikes length high, each in a Boat, and both were placed before the Palace where they measure the Water, and where the Basha tarries during the three days of Rejoycing. One of them is on the one side of the Water, and the other on the other side, each ten paces from Land, leaving a broad passage betwixt them for Boats and Barges. These Machines are filled with Lamps from top to bottom, which are lighted as soon as it is Night. In each of these Figures there are above two thousand Lamps, which are so placed, that on all sides you see a Man and a Woman of Fire. Besides that, all the Acabas, or Barks of the Basha and Beys, are also full of Lamps, and their Musick of Trumpets, Flutes, and Drums, which keep almost a continual Noise, mingled with that of Squibs, Crackers, Fire-Lances, great and small Shot; so that the vast num∣ber of Lamps, with the cracking of the Gun-powder, and noise of Musick, make a kind of agreeable Confusion, that without doubt, chears up the most De∣jected and Melancholick. This lasts till Midnight, and then all retire; the Lamps burning all Night, unless they be put out by the Wind and Squibs. This Solemnity continues for three Nights.* 1.484 The opening of the Khalis, hath in all times been very famous, even among the Ancient Egyptians, as being that which nourishes the Country; and at that Solemnity, they yearly Sacrificed a Boy and a Girl, upon whom the Lot fell, first cutting their Throat, and then throwing them into the Nile. In memory whereof, the Turks at this day, make the above-mentioned Figures of a Man and a Woman, which they fill with Fire; and in this manner they divert themselves, during the three Nights allotted for that rejoycing, and when the Water is very high, there are Men who Swim in the Khalis,* 1.485 with Iron-Chains. One of these Swimmers I saw pass by, and not without Ceremony: Before him went a great Boat full of People, of whom some beat the Drum, others had Fire-locks to shoot at those who should throw stones, and then he came in the middle of twenty Persons that Swam about him. His Hands were tied behind his Back, and his Feet bound with a Chain of Iron, that weighed ten pound weight, he stood up∣right in the Water, and discoursed with those that were about him, not seeming in the least to move. He was followed by five or six Boats full of People, ready to take him up if he chanced to sink: In this manner he came in the Water from old Caire where the Khalis begins, to the place where it ends, which is a long League. For a reward he has from the Basha, a Vest, and a thousand Maidins; and besides that, he goes about the Town with a Box, and gets somewhat more. In this manner he goes twice, on two several days. There is another also who Swims in Chains, surrounded as the other, from end to end of the Khalis, and holds in each hand a dish of Coffee, with a Pipe of Tobacco in his Mouth, without spilling the Coffee. He performs this twice, and has the same reward as the other had. These Swimmers shew only on Fridays, so that one may see them once a Week, during four Weeks.

CHAP. LXVII. Of the Arrival of the Bey of Girge at Caire.

WEdnesday the fourth of September, Mehmet Bey,* 1.486 who was then Bey of Girge, arrived near to Caire, and Lodged at Bezeten beyond old Caire, in Tents. This Bey had been a Slave to one Haley Bey, who died very Rich, in the year One thousand six hundred fifty five, when he was Bey of Girge, which is fourteen or fifteen days Journey from Caire, up the Nile. In his Life∣time he had made four of his Slaves Beys, of whom this was one; and after his death Bey of Girge. When Haley Bey died, he left behind him Fourscore thousand Camels, and about as many Asses; and besides that, a vast Treasure of Coyned Money and Jewels, among which there was a Cup made of a Tur∣keis, worth above an Hundred thousand Crowns. This Man lived at a very high Rate, and there was not a day but he spent a thousand Crowns in his House at Caire, though he were not there, but much more when he was. His Suc∣cessor (Mehmet Bey I speak of) was sent for by two Agas, one after another, and commanded in name of the Basha, (who had no kindness for him) to come to Caire, and account for what he was in Arrear to the Basha, for that is a Bey∣ship depending on the Bassaship of Caire. The design of the Basha was to draw him to Caire, under this pretext, then to deprive him of his Beyship, and give it to another; which was a secret he had discovered to no Man living. The Bey who suspected the Basha's design, having at first slighted his Commands, resolved at length to come; but seeing the Basha knew that he came with a great Retinue, he sent an Aga to command him back. This Aga found him at three days Journey from Caire, and acquainted him with his Orders, which the other slighted, and proceeded on his Journey till he came near to Caire. Thursday the fifth of September, all the Beys and other Persons of Quality, went out to visit him, as also all the Militia of the Country. The Beys, and the Cadi∣lesquer, (who was no friend to this Basha) had laid their Heads together to make the Basha Mansoul, in case he gave bad Reception to this Bey, because, besides that they were all his friends, they always stick together against the Basha. He made his entry into Caire, on Saturday the seventh of September, and that I might have a full view of that entry, I went to Cara Meidan, which is a great Court or Square in the Basha's Palace, at the end whereof the Stables are. This is a large and spacious place, but longer than broad. The Basha came down, and went into a Kieusk, which is about the middle of the length of this place, on the right hand as you enter it from the Romeille: The Basha staid for him here, because the Bey would not go to his Appartment, fear∣ing he might not be strong enough for him there. Thither came all the Men of the Beys, and all the Spahis, Chiaoux, Muteferacas, and in a word, all the Militia, ready to fight: For seeing they knew not the Basha's design, and saw on the other hand that the Bey was well accompanied, they doubted it might come to blows. These Men of the Beys played for the matter of two Hours with the Dgerit, or Zagaye, which was a great Diversion to me; for there I saw them at near distance with safety and ease, whereas when they see a Chri∣stian abroad in the Fields, they many times dart their Dgerit at him. After that, they drew neatly up into very close Order: And at the same time, by the Gate opposite to that which goes into the Romeille, the Arabs of this Bey en∣tred the place, armed with Pikes, and Shables four fingers broad, every one with his Iron-Hook a finger broad, and as big as ones Hand, with a Wooden Handle, to take up their Pikes without alighting from Horse-back as they run, after they have darted them at any Body; as they who make use of Arrows, have such another Iron-Instrument, wherewith they hook up their Arrows from the Ground; and both are very dextrous at it. These Hooks they car∣ried

in their Sleeves; and were all very well Mounted, and not ill Clad for Arabs. They were in number above Three thousand, and among them march∣ed the sixteen Caschefs or Bailiffs,* 1.487 who are Subjects of this Bey, and his Sous∣basha. After these came the Toug of the Bey, which is a Horses Tail at the end of a Pike, and a large fair pair of Colours: Then came above Two thousand Harquebusiers on Horse-back well clad, carrying all their Harquebuses before them, and their Shables by their sides; and of these the last forty had on Coats of Mail,* 1.488 Vambraces, Steel-Caps, Neck-pieces, and in a word, they were all in Mail, and followed by the Beys foot, who are called Semhin, or Serban. These are Men who have no Pay but from him, receiving none from the Grand Signior. They were about four hundred in Number, all in good Order, every one with a large Musquet on his Shoulder, well Gilt; nay, some of them carried Blunderbusses as big as little Faulcons, with their Shables by their side: After them came six led Horses, as if it had been before the Basha him∣self, then many of the Chiaoux of Caire, Agas and Janizaries, all with their Caps of Ceremony; then the two Pages of the said Bey of Girge, and the eight of the Basha, with their Gilt Silver-Cap, and lovely Plumes of Feathers, and at length, came the Bey of Girge. He was a Man of good presence, about forty Years of Age; after him came his Household, to the number of three hundred Men, all in good Order. The ten first were cloathed in Green Vel∣vet, with a large Collar of the same Stuff, covered over with Plates of Gold, having neat Bows and Quivers full of pretty Arrows, with Shables by their sides: The ten that came next were Apparelled in Yellow Satin, carrying each a Pike, a Shield and a Shable. The rest were all well Cloathed too, every one carrying a Carbine and Shable, and in the Rear of them, ten play∣ed on Timbrels, and as many on Trumpets and Flutes; besides all these, there were above sixty Men playing on Timbrels, every one mounted on a Camel, who being dispersed here and there through the Cavalcade, made a great Noise. They drew all up in the Cara Meidan, but though it be a large place, yet it could not contain both them and the Militia of Caire, so that a good many of them were forced to March out into the Romeille, to make room for the rest. When the Bey came near the Kieusk, he alighted from his Horse, and went unto it, where the Basha expected him; and treated him with Coffee, Sorbet, and a Perfume, presenting him and every one of his Officers with a Caftan a piece. Whilst he was there, I went to a narrow Avenue at the end of the Romeille, through which he was to pass; soon after, we saw him and all his Men pass that way in File. I reckoned all those of his Retinue who had Caftans, and found them to be an hundred and eight, and they marched in the same Order as they came. The Kiaya of the Basha waited upon the Bey back to his House, which was not far distant: However that was a thing extraordinary, for it is not the custome for the Kiaya of a Basha to wait upon a Bey; he saluted all the People on both hands as he went, who all shouted, and wished him a thousand Bles∣sings. The Turks and People of the Country, were much surprised to see so many Men, saying, That there was no King so powerful as he. The truth is, the Bey of Girge is a very mighty Prince when he is beloved of his Subjects, who are all Warlike, so that when he is at Girge, he values not the Grand Sig∣nior himself. And nevertheless, a Year after this solemn entry, the Basha of Caire having made War with him (who seemed to be very well beloved of his Subjects) he took him, and caused him immediately to be Strangled. His Arabs, who were his greatest strength, and in whom he put most Confidence, having forsaken him; but it was thought they were corrupted by the Basha. This Bey kept in his House about him a Guard of Two thousand Men, and the rest of his Forces returned to Bezeten, and the Rode, which is a Country-house belonging to him, over against old Caire, but they came daily to the City to know how the Affaires of their Master stood, because he mistrusted some bad design against him; and therefore when he went abroad in the Town, he took always Three thousand Horse along with him. This Bey presented the Basha in Money and Horses, to the value of eighty Purses, and it was judged, that that Journey would cost him Three hundred Purses; and indeed, he had brought Two thousand Purses with him, which amount to fifty Millions of Maidins, or

a Hundred and fifteen thousand an hundred and one Piastres, seventeen Maidins. When this Bey was at Girge, they killed an hundred and fifty Sheep a day for his Family.

CHAP. LXVIII. The arrival of an Ambassadour of Aethiopia at Caire, With the Presents he brought for the Grand Signior.

IN the month of October an Ambassadour of Aethiopia came to Caire,* 1.489 with several Presents for the Grand Signior, and among others an Ass that had a most delicate Skin, if it was Natural, for I will not vouch for that, since I did not examine it. This Ass had a black List down the Back, and the rest of its Body was all begirt with White and Tawny streaks, a finger broad a piece; the Head of it was extraordinarily long, striped and partly coloured as the rest of the Body: its Ears like a Buffles, were very wide at the end, and black, yellow and white; its Legs streaked just like the Body, not long ways, but round the Leg in fashion of a Garter down to the Foot, and all in so good proportion and Symmetry, that no Lynx could be more exactly spotted, nor any Skin of a Tygre so pretty. The Ambassadour had two more such Asses, which died by the way, but he brought their Skins with him, to be presented to the Grand Signior, with the live one. He had also several little black Slaves of Nubia, and other Countreys, confining on Aethiopia, Civet, and other costly things for his Present. These little Blacks, (as I said before) serve to look after the Women in the Serraglio, after that they are Gelded. The Ambassadour was an Old Man, and had the end of his Nose, part of the upper and under Lip cut off, but was otherwise a shapely Man, and of a very good Presence: He was Cloathed after the Cophtish fashion, wearing a Turban like them, and spoke very good Italian, which gave me the opportunity of conversing with him: He told me his name was Michael, that he was a Native of Tripoly, in Syria, and that he had made three or four Voyages into Christendom; he even confessed to me, that he was a Roman Catholick, but that he durst not make profession of it in Aethiopia, but only of the Abyssin, that is to say, the Reli∣gion of the Cophtes. That eighteen months before, he had parted from Gontar, the Capital City of Aethiopia, and was so long retarded by the way, because of the contrary Winds he met with on the Red Sea, by which he came. That of an hundred Persons whom he had brought with him, of his own Servants and the Slaves he was to present to the Grand Signior, thirty or forty were Dead. If he had come by Land, he had not been so long by the way; for from Gontar to Schouaquen, it is about six weeks Journey,* 1.490 and from Schouaquen to Caire, forty or fifty days by Camels; but he could not take that way because of his Train. He told me many things relating to the Kingdom of Aethiopia, which I shall here give the Reader an account of.

CHAP. LXIX. Of Aethiopia.

* 1.491AEThiopia or the Countrey of the Abyssins, called in Arabick Abesch, from whence comes the word Abyssin, is a great Empire, being above seven months travel in Circuit; on the East-side it is bordered by the Red-Sea and Zanguebar, on the South, with Zeila, Avousa, Naria, &c. On the West by the Countrey of the Negros and Nubia, and on the North with the Countrey of Nubia and Bugia;* 1.492 because to come from Aethiopia into Aegypt, one must cross Nubia down the Nile. About an hundred years ago, Greyn Mahomet, King of Zeila, of which the Inhabitants are all Moors, Invaded Aethiopia, and forced the King to save himself on a Mountain, from whence he sent to demand assistance of the King of Portugal,* 1.493 who immediately sent it him; but hardly was he who commanded these Auxiliaries entered the Countrey, when he resolved to return back again, finding that they ate raw Flesh there: However his brother Don Christopher had more Courage, and would not return without doing some Exploit; he marched up into the Countrey with about three hundred Musqueteers, Fought, Vanquished, and killed the Moor∣ish King, and then Re-established the lawful King of Aethiopia. For reward of which Service, the king of Aethiopia, gave Lands and Estates to all the Portuguese that stayed within his Dominions, and their Off-spring are still in that Countrey. The Father of this present King was a good Catholick, but he dying some thirty odd years agoe, the Queen his Wife, who was a great Enemy to the Jesuits, and no Catholick, and who suffered impatiently that they should govern (as they pleased) the late King her Husband, wrought upon her Son that succeeded him,* 1.494 to Persecute all the Roman Catholicks, in such a manner that the Jesuits were obliged to make their Escape, and he put to Death all the Capucins whom he found. Since that time, three Capucins more were put to Death at Schouaken; for the King of Aethiopia knowing that they had a mind to come into his Kingdom, sent to the Governour of Schouaken, praying him to put to death those three Religious Franks. The Governour of Schouaken caused their Heads to be immediately struck off, and sent them to the King of Aethiopia, who as a reward, made him a Present of three Bags of Gold-Dust, promising him as many Baggs of Gold-Dust, as he should send him Heads of Franks; and fifteen or sixteen years since, two others have been put to Death, in the Province of Oinadaga, whose names were Father Fioravanti, and Father Francesco. In short, this King is a declared Enemy to all Franks, whom he accuses of being Hereticks, and of having con∣spired to put the Crown upon the Head of one of his Enemies; so that a Frank who would go into that Countrey,* 1.495 must pass for an Armenian or Cophte; for the King and all his People, are of the Cophtish Religion. They believe but one Nature in Jesus Christ: At the end of eight days they Circumcise, as the Jews do, and Baptise a Fortnight after. Before the Jesuits went thither, they Baptised none before they were thirty or forty years of Age. They say Mass as the Cophtes do, but their Church-Books are in the Aethiopick Language.* 1.496 Their Patriarch depends on the Patriarch of Alexandria, and when the Patriarch of the Abyssins dies, they send Deputies to Alexandria, to entreat the Patriarch to send them another; and he Convocating his Clergy, chuses out the fittest among them, whom he sends, but is never any more heard of in Aegypt, till he be Dead. After all, the Ambassadour told us that most of the People of the Countrey are Catholicks in their Heart.

* 1.497There are four Kings that pay Tribute to the King of Aethiopia, to wit, The King of Sennar, who pays his Tribute in Horses. Sennar is a very hot Countrey. The King of Naria, who pays his Tribute in Gold. The King of Bugia, and King of Dangala. Naria is a good Countrey; and in

that Countrey are the Mines out of which, they have the Gold that passes on the Coasts of Soffala and Guiney. These Mines are not deep, as in many other Countreys. From that Countrey also comes the Civet. I think it will not be amiss, here to say somewhat of Civets, which are so rare in our Countrey, as that they deserve to be taken notice of where one can find them. They are called Civet-Cats, come from Naria, (as I just now said) and are taken in Snares. The Jews in Caire keep many of them in their Houses, where for buying a few drachms of Civet, one may see them. It is a Beast almost as big as a good Dog;* 1.498 it hath a sharp Snout, small Eyes, little Ears, and mustachios like a Cat; the Skin of it is all spotted black and white, with some •••…•••…wish specks, and hath a long bushy Tail, almost like a Fox. It is a very wild Creature; and I believe the bite of it would put a body to no small pain, The Jews keep them in great square wooden Cages, where they feed them with raw Mutton and Beaf, cut into small Pieces.* 1.499 When they would get from them that which is called Civet, (and is the Sweat of this Beast, that smells so sweet) they make him go back with a stick which they thrust in betwixt the Bars of the Cage and catch hold of his Tail; when they have that fast, they take hold also of his two hind Legs, pulling him half out of the Cage by the Door, which falls down upon his Back, and keeps him fast there, then another opens a certain Cod of Flesh that these Beasts have, which is shaped like a split Gyserne, and with an Iron-Spatula scrapes all the Sweat off of it within. The Males have that piece of Flesh betwixt their Stones and Yard, which is like a Cats. The Females have it betwixt their Fundament and Privities; and it is emptied of the Sweat but twice a Week, each Beast yielding about a drachm at a time, by what I could discern. When that Sweat or Excrement is taken out, it is of a whitish grey, but by little and little in some short space it turns to a very brown colour. It smells very sweet at a distance, but near hand it stinks and causes a Head-ach. There are as many kinds of Civet-Sweat, as there are of Civet-Cats, for it is more whitish, greyish, or yellowish, and dryer in some than in others, and yet they mingle all together.* 1.500 After all, it is in vain to think to have pure Civet, for the Jews falsifie it; and if a Man imagine it to be pure because he has seen it taken from the Beast, he is mistaken, for before People come to their Houses, they rub the inside of that piece of Flesh, with a little Oyl or some such stuff, that so the Sweat and it together may make more weight, but when no body is present, they take it out pure, and mingle it afterwards. To find out the truth of this, I went one day to the House of a Jew that kept Civet Cats, without giving him notice before, (for because I had bought a little of him, and promised to come again another time, he asked me as often as he saw me, what day I would come) and having desired him to get me some fresh Civet, he told me that it was not the day he used to take it out; and ha∣ving returned without acquainting him before, upon one of the days when he said he was accustomed to gather it, he refused then also to do it, pretending business, which confirmed all that had been told me of that maitter. In the mean time, they hold these Beasts very dear, for havihg asked that Jew, and others also, how much they would have of me, for a Civet Cat,* 1.501 they all told me, an hundred Chequins. Dangala, is the Capital City of Nubia, the King of Dangala, is King of the Barberins, who are a kind of Blacks, of the Musulman Religion, that came in crouds to Caire to get Services; they are somewhat silly, but very faithful, and serve for a small matter; for two Maidins a day, or a Maidin and their Diet; you may make them do whatsoever you please. They wear a blew-Shirt, plat all their Hair in Tresses, and then rub it over with a certain Oyl, to keep their Head from being Lousie. At Caire when they have any falling out, they go before the Scheiks of their own Nation, who make them Friends, and if they think It convenient, adjudge them to pay a Fine, with which they Feast and make merry together. They are great lovers of Crocodiles Flesh; and when any Frank has got one for the Skin, they come and beg the Flesh, which they dress with a pretty good Sawce. When these blades have scraped together ten or twelve Piastres, they return home again wealthy to their own Countrey, provided they escape being Robbed by the Arabs upon the way, who many times serve them so, therefore they

commonly return in companies, as they came. The King of Dangala pays his Tribute to the King of Aethiopia, in Cloath. The Provinces of Aethiopia, are Gouyan, (where the King keeps a Vice-Roy.) Beghandir, Dambia, Amara, (which is a great Province full of Mountains and good Castles) Damoud Tegre, and Barnegas. Besides, there are several Provinces Governed by Princes, who are Vassals to the King of Aethiopia. In short, the Kingdom of Aethiopia, comprehends twenty four Tambours or Vice-Roys. The Capital City is called Gonthar, and is in the Province of Dambia. Aethiopia, (as the Ambassadour told me) is as cold as Aleppo or Damascus, only the Countries near the Red-Sea, and the Countrey of Sennar are hot. The King of Aethiopia has above an hundred Wives, and keeps no Eunuchs to look after them, because they look upon it as a Sin to Geld a Man; so that the Women have the same liberty there as in Christendom. He is a King of very easie access, and the poorest have the freedom to come and speak to him when they please. He keeps all his Children on a Mountain, called Ouohhni, in the Province of Oinadaga, which is a Mountain two days Journey distant from Gonthar; there is a place like a Cistern on the top of the Mountain, into which they are let down every night, and taken up again in the day-time, and suffered to play and walk about. When the King dies, they chuse out one of the wittiest of them, and make him King, without any regard to Birth-right: and when he comes to have Children, he sends his Brothers Prisoners to some other place, and places his Children at Ouohhni. The place where the Kings are Buried, is called Ayesus, and is a kind of Grott; where the Aged are laid in one side, and the young in the other. Heretofore there was a Church there of the same name, in time of the Jesuits; and in the same place, there is an excellent Library, where are all sorts of Books in all kinds of Languages in great plenty, and may be seen by those who have the Curiosity. The Ambassadour assured me, that he had been in that Library, and I fancy it is the old Library of the Ancient Aethiopians. Aethiopia is a good and fertile Countrey, producing Wheat, Barley, &c. The greatest Desarts of it, are not above three or four days Journey over; and nevertheless, when the King makes any progress, he always lodges in Tents. The Houses of the great Lords, are like those of Caire, that is to say, very mean in respect of the Houses of Europe, and the rest are only of Mud. The Countrey affords men of all Trades, except Watch-makers. They have no Camels there, but Mules, Asses, Oxen and Hor∣ses. All the people of this Countrey eat raw Flesh, except the King, who has it dress'd, and drinks Wine of Grapes; the rest drink only Wine made of Millet or Sarasin wheat, but as strong as ours, and Brandy made of the same Grain. They are Cloathed after the fashion of the Franks, and wear Cloath, Velvet and other Stuffs imported to them by the Red-Sea. They have Harque∣busses from the Turks, and of those People, there are not above three or four hundred, who serve in the Wars with Harquebusses. In Trading they make no use of Coined Money, as the Europeans do, but their money are pieces of fifteen or twenty Pics of Cloath, Gold, which they give by weight, and a kind of Salt, which they reduce into little square pieces like pieces of Soap, and these pass for Money. They cut out that Salt upon the side of the Red-Sea, five or six days Journey from Dangala, as you go from Caire, and the places where they make it, are called Arho. Among them is the Nation of the Gaules, whom in Aethiopick they call Chava, and are a Vagabond people in Aethiopia, as the Arabs are in Aegypt; these Gaules are rich in Cattel, and are always at Wars with the Aethiopians, They have no Harquebusses, nor other Fire-Arms, but make use of Lances and Targets. After all, they speak so many different Languages in Aethiopia, that the Ambassadour said to me, If God hath made seventy two Languages, they are all spoken in Aethiopia. I asked his Excellency if he knew any thing of the Source of the Nile, and this he told me concern∣ing it. The head of Nile is a Well that springs out of the Ground in a large Plain, where many Trees grow; this Fountain is called, Ouembromma, and is in a Province called Ago. It makes that a very delightful place, casting up Water very High in several places: And this Ambassadour of Aethiopia assured me, that he had been above twelve times with the King of Aethiopia to spend several days about that Fountain, which is twelve days Journey from Gonthar,

the Capital City of Aethiopia. This Spring sends its Water Northwards through a long tract of Land, which having passed seven Cataracts or Falls, that are very high places, from which it falls plumb down, making a roaring noise at every one of these Cascades, and having run through all Aegypt, it discharges itself into the Mediterranean Sea, by the two mouths of Rossetto and Damiette. Now the cause why Nile overflows so regularly in the Summer-time, is only because when they have Summer in Aegypt, it is Winter in Aethiopia, where for three months time, the Rain that continually falls running by Torrents into the main River, makes it to swell extraordinarily, and never∣theless, there are no Mountains near to that Spring head; for the Mountains that are nearest to it, are the Jews Mountains, whereof I shall make some mention hereafter, and these are three Weeks Journey from it. It is a Vul∣gar errour then, that this River has its Source from an unknown place;* 1.502 as also that those who live near the Cataracts of Nile, are deaf; and a greater still what some say, that the Grand Signior pays Tribute to the King of Aethiopia to let the Nile run in its usual Channel; for it is not in his power to divert it. The Mountains of the Jews are but two in number, of which the one is called Semain; and the other, Sallemt.* 1.503 They were heretofore Inhabited by Jews, who became powerful under the command of one called Ghidhon, which the King of Aethiopia perceiving, marched out against them, reduced them to duty;* 1.504 and at length that they might attempt no Innovation for the future, he dispossessed them of the Mountains, and brought them down into a Plain Inhabited by Christians, whom he sent into their Mountains; on which there always lyes a great deal of Snow.

CHAP. LXX. Of the Esine that was kept at Caire in my time.

IN the month of November there was an Esine kept at Caire, that is to say,* 1.505 a publick Rejoicing, because the Turks had taken two Castles in Hungary. It was proclaim'd on the eighth of November after noon, there being a man who cried it in every Quarter; and the chief Cryer went in a Caftan to adver∣tise the Beys and Consuls, and got money in the Streets: They Cried it for seven days, to begin on Saturday the ninth of November, at the hour of Evening Prayers, though it used not to last above three days. This Saturday morning the Guns were fired from the Castle, which continued to be done every mor∣ning as long as the Esine lasted, and then all fell to work before their doors, the poorest Man that is, being ready on such occasions to lay out somewhat on Lamps and Stuffs: It is a very pleasant thing to be seen, especially in the Night-time, when one may go abroad with greater safety and freedom than in the day at any other time; for by Lamp-light they cannot tell whether your Turban be white or of any other Colour, and so they know not whether you be Christian or Turk. All the streets are full of Lamp-lights, but especially some, wherein there are a vast number of Lights, not only before the Gates, but within the Houses of the Beys, and other Persons of Quality. Besides that, the streets are hung with lovely Hangings of Cloath of Gold, and other rich stuffs; among others, there are some Streets where∣in all the Shops are hung with Cloath of Gold, and rich silk Stuffs flowered with Gold. In many places also, you may see pleasant figures of Christian Franks, which to them is a great Diversion. Besides the Tapistery and Lamps which are to be seen in the Houses of the Beys, they make a shew also in the entry of all sorts of Arms and Armour; as Head-pieces, Corslets, Coats of Mail, Musquets, Swords and Targets, &c. which are ranked in very good order. The Consuls are likwise obliged to act their parts in the Solemnity,

though it were even a rejoycing for a Victory obtained by the Turks over their own Country, else they would have an Avanie put upon them, and therefore when they keep an Esinie for a Victory over the Venetians, the Consul of Venice is obliged to do as others do, if he had not rather pay the next day a swinging Avanie. There they expose, besides Lamps and Tapistry, several excellent Pictures, which the Turks look upon with a great deal of pleasure, especially when it is some good Face; thinking it impossible that we should have such Beauties in Christendom, nay, that there can be any such in the World. The Women came also, being allowed then, as at Bairam, to go abroad and see the Festival, yet not the great Ladies, as those of the Basha's, Beys, and others of higher Quality, but only those of an inferiour Condi∣tion. This is very expensive to the Consuls, and to all that would make any shew; for besides some hundreds of Lamps, and the Tapistry which must be hired; it is the custom to treat all those who come to see what is before the House with Coffee, and if they be People of Honour and Fashion, they must give them Sorbet also, nay, and Sweet-meats too. And for that end, every Consul had before his House a piece of Tapistry, hung out on each side of the Street, and Hangings all round, leaving only a Passage between; under these kind of Pavillions on each side of the Street, there were some hundreds of Lamps, and a great many Pictures, as likewise at the Avenues of the Street, with Chairs and rich Cushions for those that come to see, to sit on. And no sooner did any come, how mean soever he was, but he had Coffee and Tobacco brought to him, so that the Expence went high; for betwixt morning early, and three a Clock after Midnight, many thousands of People came. This Festival ended on Friday Morning, the fifteenth of November, so that the Esine lasted but six days, though it had been cried for seven, because the Infe∣riour sort of People were at too great Charges, and got nothing, for during that time, no Man was suffered to Work.

CHAP. LXXI. Of the Desarts of St. Macharius.

* 1.506ONE should also see the Desarts of St. Macharius, where there are four Monasteries, to wit, of St. Macharius, the Syrians, Balsarion, and of our Lady. I did not see them, having still put it off from day to day: However, I will here give you a Relation of them, which I got. You must take Water at Boulac, with a Janizary or two, and fall down as far as a Village called Terrana, where there is a Cachef, to whom it will not be a miss to make some small present of Sweet-meats, or the like, that you may be the better prote∣cted by him. Then the Janizaries wait upon the said Cachef, and inform him that their Company have a desire to go to the Desarts of St. Macharius: Imme∣diately the Cachef gives orders to two of his Men, and to Arab Scheiks, to make ready to attend the Travellers, and provides Beasts to carry them. For the price, you must endeavour to agree as cheap as you can, and it must be made in presence of the Cachef, before you set out, for if you delay till you come back, they'll exact the more. The hire commonly for going and coming is two Piastres for each Horse or Camel, and one Piastre for each Ass, besides three or four Piastres for every Horse-man that accompanies you, which pays both for Man and Horse. Such as would spare Charges, should at Caire strike in with one of the Monks of some of the Monasteries of the said Desart, who will oblige himself to Conduct them thither and back again to Caire,* 1.507 and they are to go down the River with him, to a Village called Dris, where these Monks have a House. There the Monk will do well to take with him an Arab that is known in the Moun∣tain, and every one being mounted on an Ass, they may begin their Journey.

First, They go to the Manastery of St. Macharius,* 1.508 a days Journey from Terrana, and lies right West. This is a very ancient Monastery, the Walls are very high, but it is much decaied. There are many holy bodies in it, but only one of these approved of by the Church of Rome; to wit, that of St. Macha∣rius, as also five or six Altar-Tables of lovely Marble. Within the Precinct of this Monastery, there is a kind of a big square Tower, into which you enter by a Draw-bridge; and wherein there is a Church, a Well, and all that is necessary for the Service of the Church, and the sorry sustenance of the Re∣ligious, who sometimes retreat into it. For when they find themselve abused, and pursued by stranger Arabs, they betake themselves to this kind of strong Hold, and pull up the Draw-bridge after them, keeping there whatever they have of Value in the Monastery, especially all their Books which they so esteem, that no Monk dares to Sell, or put out of the way any of them, under the pain of Anathema. In this manner, all the three other Monasteries, (of which we shall speak hereafter) have Towers in them. This Monastery is the greatest, but also the most ruinous, and especially the Church that seems to have been very fair in times past. There is no Garden belonging to it, and the Water which the Monks drink is somewhat brackish.

From St. Macharius, you go to another, called Ambabichoye,* 1.509 lying North∣ward of the former, three or four Hours journey only. Upon the way thither, you see a great many little Eminences, or Risings, about a step over, which cut the way, and reach far into the Western Desart: The Religious say, and find it Recorded in their Books (which are very ancient,) that this Rising was made by Angels, to serve for a path to the Hermites, who many times lost their way, when on Sundays they were coming to Mass in the Monastery, and therefore they call it Tarik el Melaike, that is to say, the Angels Way.* 1.510 By the way also you see many old Walls, which are the ruines of several Mona∣steries that heretofore have been there, and as the Monks say, to the number of three hundred, round that Mountain; but the Ruines which remain at pre∣sent, make it not appear that the number has been so great. It is true, one must not think, that they have been perfect Monasteries, but only little Houses built by Seculars, who had a mind to retire into the Desart, and lead a Reli∣gious Life there; being obliged on Sundays and all Holy Days, to come to Mass in the next Monastery, there to assist at Divine Service. And in that Monastery there was an Abbot, with a certain number of residing Monks, who when they had a mind to lead a more austere Life, and were found to be suf∣ficiently qualified for that, by their Superiour, were suffered by him to leave the Convent, and go live more solitary further off in the Mountain, where they built little Hermitages, and there spent their lives in great Austerity, Silence, and continual Meditation; and this is the account the Religious give. It is not good to follow that Angels way, nor to be too curious in ask∣ing questions of the Arabs about it, for then they would presently conclude, that you were come to the Mountain to search for some Treasure hid in it, which they fancy the Franks know of. Among these old buildings, you see the ruines of a Monastery, built in honour of St. John the Little, and is called Juhhanna el Kasir, where there is still a Dome, and the dry Rod, which being watered by that good Hermite, at the command of his Superiour, was changed into a fair Tree, which is to be seen at this day, as a monument of the merit of Obedience. The Monks call this Tree Chadgeret el Taa, that is to say,* 1.511 the Tree of Obedience. The Monastery of Ambabichoye, is the pleasantest of all the four, for it has a fair Church, a lovely Garden, and good Water, with a big Tower in it, as in that of St. Macharius. There were a great many holy bodies therein, which on Palm-Sunday, in the Year 1656. were burnt by a spark that fell from a Taper that had been left burning there; whereupon the Monks being vexed that they had lost their Saints, gave it out that they had been carried away by a French Merchant, who came into those Quarters to buy Natron. But finding that the device would not take, though it cost the Merchant Money, (for the Turks would not let slip that occasion,) they raised some dead bodies and brought them into their Church, publishing that they were the bodies of their Saints, which had escaped out of the French Ships, and were come back to their Church. From Ambabichoye you go to

another Monastery,* 1.512 called the Monastery of the Syrians, a quarter of a League distant from Ambabichoye; it is but small, but very pleasant, has good Water, and is the best in order of all. There you see two fair Churches, one for the Syrians, and another for the Cophtes, in which are many Relicks. In this last is the Staff of St. Ephrem, who being come to visit another Hermite, and ha∣ving left his Staff at the Door, whilst he was in discourse with the other whom he came to see, his Staff took root and blossomed, and is now a lovely great Tree, and the only in Aegypt of its kind. From the Monastery of the Syrians, you go to the Mountain of the Eagles Stones, and by the way you see the dry Sea, which was dried up (as the Monks say) at the Prayers of the Hermites who at that time lived by it, and chiefly of St. Macharius; because the Pirats of that Sea much infested them,* 1.513 it is called Bahr el Malame, that is to say, Mare Convicii. There you may find a great many petrifications of Wood, and some Bones converted into Stone, which are pretty curious. On the side of that Sea to the West,* 1.514 is the Mountain of Eagles Stones, called Dgebel el Masque; where digging in the Earth, and especially in time of heat and drought, they find several Eagles Stones of different bigness, so called, because the Eagles carry them to their Nests, to preserve their young ones from Serpents; they have many Vertues, and the Monks say, that there are commonly many Eagles to be seen there. You must make as short a stay there as you can, for fear of the Arabs. From the Mountain of Eagles Stones, you go (making a Triangle) to the fourth Monastery, and all the Journey from Ambabichoye to this Mona∣stery,* 1.515 is performed in one day: This Monastery is called Dir el Saydet, that is to say, the Monastery of our Lady; it is very spacious, but a little ruinous. It hath a fair Church and Garden, but the Water is brackish, and nevertheless, there are more Monks in this Monastery than in the other three, because the Revenue of it is greater, and they have some Relicks also. From this Mona∣stery you go to the Lake of Natron,* 1.516 called Birquet el Natroun, only two Leagues distant from it; this Lake is worth ones Curiosity to see, and it looks like a large Pond frozen over, upon the Ice whereof, a little Snow had fallen: It is divided into two, the more Northern is made by a Spring that rises out of the Ground, though the place of it cannot be observed; and the Southern proceeds from a great bubbling Spring, the Water being at least a Knee deep, which immediately as it springs out of the Earth congeals, and makes as it were great pieces of Ice; and generally the Natron is made and perfected in a Year by that Water, which is reddish. There is a red Salt upon it six or seven Fingers thick,* 1.517 then a black Natron, which is made use of in Aegypt for Lye, and last is the Natron much like the first Salt, but more solid. Higher up there is a little Well of Fresh-water, which is called Aain el Goz; and a great many Camels come dayly to the Lake, to be loaded with that Natron. From this Lake you go to another, where there is Salt at Whitsontide, made in form of a Pyramide,* 1.518 and therefore is called Pyramidal Salt, and in Arabick Melh el Mactaoum. From the said Lake you return and Lodge in one of the Monasteries, and next day come back to the Nile, where you must stay for a passage to Caire, or Rossetto, if you have not retained the Boat that brought you.

CHAP. LXXII. Of Aegypt, the Nile, Crocodiles, and Sea-Horses.

AEGypt called by the Hebrews Mis Raim,* 1.519 and by the Arabs at present Masr, and in Turkish Misr, is bounded on the East by the Red Sea, and the Desarts of Arabia; on the South by the Kingdoms of Bugia and Nubia,* 1.520 on the West by the Desarts of Lybia; and on the North by the Mediterranean Sea. This Country lies so low, that the Land cannot be seen till one be just upon it; and therefore those that sail to it, ought to be upon their Guard. Aegypt has no Ports on the Mediteranean fit for Ships, except Alexandria and the Bouquer, which is rather a Road than a Port:* 1.521 The River of Nile runs through the length of it, and having its Course from South to North, dis∣charges it self into the Mediterranean by two mouths, upon the sides of which, stand two fair Towns, to wit, Rossetto to the West, and Damiette to the East, two miles below which, it mingles its Waters with the Sea, and by that division makes a Triangular Isle in Aegypt: This Triangular Island was by the ancient Greeks called Delta, because in Figure it resembles the Character Δ.* 1.522 One side of that Triangle is beat by the Mediterranean Sea on the North, and the other two are bounded by the two branches of the Nile, which divide at the point of this Triangle; so that the three points or angles of this Tri∣angle are, the first at the place where the Nile divides it self into two; the second at Rossetto, and the third at Damiette: The first Angle is at an equal distance from the other two, to wit, from Rossetto and Damiette, and from that Angle it is five or six Leagues to Caire, so that the Nile has only those two mouths which are Navigable for great Vessels; for though there be some others, yet they are no more but Rivulets.* 1.523 This River is broader than the broadest part of the Seine, but it is not very Rapid, unless it be at its Ca∣taracts, where it falls from so great a height, that (as they say) the noise of it is heard at a very great distance. When it overflows, it seems to be a little Sea. The water of it is very thick and muddy, but they have an Inven∣tion to clarifie it: For in that Country,* 1.524 they make use of great Vessels of white Earth, holding about four Buckets full of Water; when they are full of Water, they rub the inside of the Vessels with three or four Almonds at most, until they be dissolved, and in the space of a quarter of an Hour, the Water becomes very clear; and for that end, most of those who bring Water to Houses, have a Paste of Almonds, wherewith they rub the Vessels, as I have said. After all, this Water is so wholesome, that it never does any harm, though one drink never so much of it, because it comes a great way over Land, to wit, from Ethiopia. So that in so long a course, and through so hot a Country, the Sun has time to Correct it, and cleanse it from all Crudities, and indeed, it is sweated out as fast as one drinks it. In short,* 1.525 they have no other Water to drink in Aegypt, and therefore most of the Cities, Towns, and Villages are upon the sides of the River, and there are so many Villages, that you no sooner leave one, but you find another, and all the Houses in them are built of Earth. This River abounds not much in Fish, and we had but one good Fish of the Nile at Caire, which they call Variole, and that is rare too;* 1.526 but there are a vast number of Crocodiles in it, which perhaps is the cause of the scarcity of the Fish. Crocodiles are Amphibious Animals, for they live both in the Water, and upon Land: They have a Head flat above and below, the Eyes indifferently big and very darkish, which has made many say, that they always weep after once they are taken, but it is a fable. They have a long sharp Snout, full of long and sharp Teeth, but no Tongue. The Body is large and all of a bigness, the Back covered with high Scales like the heads of the Nails in a Court-Gate, of a greenish Colour, and so hard, that they

are proof against a Halbard; they have a long Tail, covered over with Scales like the Body, their Belly below is white and pretty tender. They have four short thick Legs, there being five Claws in each of the Fore-feet, and only four in the Hind-feet. In a word, a Crocodile resembles very much a Lizard, and grows as long as it lives; some of them are above twenty Foot in length, but I have seen little ones half a Foot long. This and the Hippopotamus are the only Animals, who in eating move the upper Jaw, and move not at all the under. The Crocodile is very strong, and one day as I caused one of them, which was eight Foot long, to be skinned, four Men stood upon it, whilst they were slitting up his Belly, but it stirred and strugled with so much force, that it threw them all four off; it is also very strong liv'd, for when they skin it, after they have cut the Throat and opened the Belly of it, if it catch hold of any thing in its mouth, it will never part from it. As it happened once to a Moor whom I knew, who having skinned one for a French-man, (who had a mind to keep the Skin) and cutting the Throat, had separated the Head from the Body, so that there remained no more but the Head sticking to the Skin, all the flesh being taken out; he untied the Snout, but immediately thereupon the Jaws opening, caught hold of one of his Fingers, which with its Teeth, it cut clear off. The flesh of a Crocodile is not bad, but it is somewhat insipid, and not at all poysonous, as many believe, for I have tasted of it, and found it to be good; the Barbarians eat heartily, and make a great Feast of it. These Crea∣tures are great lovers of Mens flesh, and therefore they are very terrible all along the Nile, not only to little Boys, whom they frequently devour when they come to the River-side to do their Needs, for these cunning creatures hide themselves; but also to Men, whom they surprise sometimes in their Boats. For in the Night-time they rise upright, and thrusting their Snout into the Boat, endeavour to catch hold of a Man, and if they can but pull him into the Water, they quickly master him; and that is the reason that no Body will willingly venture to Swim in the Nile. It is another most erroneous fable also, that a Crocodile will weep like a young Child, to draw People about it whom it may devour;* 1.527 it is a thing altogether unknown in that Country. To catch these Creatures, they make a great many Pits by the River-side, which they cover over with Sticks, and such other things, and so when they come to pass over these Ditches, (especially when the Water encreases, which is the time when most of them are taken, because then they venture farthest out) they fall into them, and cannot get out again. They let them fast there for several days, then let down some Gins with running Nooses, wherewith they muzzle their Snout, and so pull them up, and carry them to the Quarters of the Franks. The Moors say, That at old Caire there is a Talisman against the Crocodiles, which makes that they never pass beyond old Caire; but that is false, for there are of them at Rossetto and Damiette, and they are to be seen upon the way to Caire, not indeed, in any great number, because commonly they keep off from the Sea; but there some at least to be found there. They never come into the Khalis, because (as I think) it is narrow; but if they did, they might do a great deal of mischief, for when the Water runs in it, it is full of Swimmers.

* 1.528There are Hippopotamuses, or Sea-Horses, also in this River, and there was one taken at Girge, in the Year 1658. which was immediately brought to Caire, where I saw it in the Month of February, the same Year. This Creature was of a kind of Tawny Colour, the hinder part of it was much like to a Buffler, however its Legs were shorter and bigger; it was about the bigness of a Ca∣mel, and had a Muzzle like an Ox. The Head of it is like to a Horses, and very great, but its Eyes small. It had a very thick Neck, a little Ear, wide and open Nostrils, thick large Feet, and almost round, with four Toes in each, like a Crocodile, a little Tail like an Elephant, and little or no Hair upon the Skin, no more than an Elephant. In the lower Jaw it had four great Teeth half a Foot long, two whereof were crooked, and as big as the Horns of an Ox, and one on each side of the Jaw; the other two were streight, and of the same bigness as the crooked, but standing out in length. Many said at first, that it was a Sea-Buffler, but some others and I, knew it to be a Sea-Horse, because of the description that is given of it by Writers. It was brought

Dead to Caire, by some Janizaries, who shot it on Land, where it was come to feed; they fired several shot at it, before it fell, for the Bullets hardly pierced through its Skin, as I observed, but they fired one shot which hit it on the Jaw, and made it fall. For many years before, such an Animal had not been seen at Caire.

But to return to the Nile, this River causes all the fruitfulness of Aegypt, and if it failed to overflow one year, there would be a Famine in the Land; nay if it did not rise sixteen foot, there would be great Scarcity; as also if it grew four and twenty foot, it would likewise occasion a Dear 〈◊〉〈◊〉; because the water covering all the Land too long, Seed-time would be lost, when it ebbs off; it leaves a fat nitrous slime upon the ground, which so fattens the Land, that it would produce nothing, through too much Fatness, if they did not sow Sand upon it, before they plant or sow any thing therein; so that they are at the same pains to put Sand on their Land to unfatten it, as we are to Dung ours. Not that it never rains there, as many Dreamers would have us believe in Christendom, squeezing their Brains to give a reason for that which is not in Nature, for it rains much at Alexandria, and Rossetto also; but at Caire, which stands higher, it rains less; and yet I have seen it rain very hard every year for two days together in the Month of December, and at the same time, it Thundered so much, that the eleventh or twelfth night of the said month, a man in the Castle was killed by Thunder, (though it had never been heard before that Thunder had killed any body at Caire. It is cold weather also in December, which I found by experience, but it is never so cold that one stands in need of a Fire. In the other Seasons it is extream hot, but especially in Summer. From January till March, they catch Snipes in Aegypt, in May, yellow Birds or Nitrials,* 1.529 which are nothing but a lump of Fat, and wild-Turtles, which are very good, but for the house-Pigeons they are good for nothing: In September also yellow Birds and Turtles, which come again, and at the same time Larks, that last till the years end. This Countrey indeed, is not only most fertile, but also very pleasant; and it is not without reason that I said elsewhere that Aegypt is an Earthly Para∣dise, inhabited by Devils: but certainly, the oppression the people lye under from their Governours, abates much of their Pleasure, as I shall say here∣after.

This Countrey produces a great deal of Corn, and Herbs of all sorts, but no Fruits nor Wine, for it yields but very few Grapes, which are of those great red Grapes, that have a very thick Skin, and little Juice in them.* 1.530 Many fair Trees grow there, which we have not in this Countrey, and especially Palm-Trees, and the Sycamores or Fig-Trees of Pharaoh, which differ from those Trees we call Sycamores, for those of Aegypt are the true Sycamores; they bear Figgs that stick to the stock, which are not good, and yet the Moors for all that eat them; there are also Cassia-Trees there, which are very lovely; they bear always both Blossoms and Fruit, the Blossoms of them being yellow, and having a very pleasant Scent, which may be smell'd at a great distance.

I wave many other plants, as the Colocasse and Papyrus, &c. which are described in Prosper Alpinus.

CHAP. LXXIII. Of the Manners of the Aegyptians; the Woman who pulls Worms out of Childrens Ears, and of the Arabick Language.

* 1.531CAire the chief City of Aegypt, called in Arabick Masr, and in Turkish Misr, as the whole Province of Aegypt is, (whereof it is the Capital) is peopled by several different Nations,* 1.532 who may be reduced into some kinds, for there are the people of the Countrey, who are either Musulmans or Chri∣stians; the Musulmans of the Countrey, are the Moors the Christians, and the Cophtes. Besides these, there are the Stranger Christians, Turks and Jews; the stranger Christians are either Franks or Greeks. I shall here speak first of the Moors, after I have said a word or two of the Aegyptians in general. The People of the Countrey,* 1.533 (generally speaking) both Musulmans and Christians are all swarthy, they are exceeding wicked, great Rogues, Cowardly, lazy, Hypocrites, Buggerers, Robbers, treacherous, very greedy of Money, and will kill a man for a Maidin; in short, no vice comes a miss to them: they are Cowards to the highest degree, and are very loath to fight, but when they fall out, they huff, scold, and make a terrible noise, as if they would cut one anothers Throats, and nevertheless, they refer their controversie to the next man they meet, who makes them good Friends again; then Spectators and all together, (for they soon gather to a croud) lifting up their Hands, say the prayer which they call Fatha, (I mean when they are Moors) and then they are better Friends than ever they were before. These wretches are used by the Turks like slaves, or rather like Dogs, for they govern them with a Cudgel, and a Turk will knock a Moor on the head, and he not dare to resist, and indeed, when they speak to a Turk, they do it with great respect. They labour and cultivate all the Land, and yet the Bread they eat, is very bad, and have not their Bellies full of that neither, though it be a most plentiful Countrey; and indead, they are of so bad a nature, that they want to be well beaten, and love those the better for it, who beat them like Dogs, serving very well when they are soundly drubbed, whereas they are insupportable, and will do nothing when they are gently used.* 1.534 They live a wretched life, their most ordinary Diet being salt Cheese, which they call Dgibn Halum, with very course Bread; their Bread is as broad as our Plates, made like thin Buns, and consists only of two round pieces of paste, and as thin as Parchment, clap'd together and shewed to the Fire, so that one of them may very well be eaten at three mouthfuls; but it is so bad, not only for the blackness of it, but as being ill kned, worse bak'd, and full of Coals and Ashes, that I could never accustome my self to it: It is cheap enough indeed, for you may have eight of these Cakes for a Maidin, which is worth about three half pence. For their Desert or after-course, they suck Sugar-Canes; they are also great eaters of ordinary Melons, water-Melons and the like, whereof they have great plenty, and many sorts which we have not, yet all cannot attain to them, though they be extraordinarily cheap. They are Apparrelled like the Turks when they are able; I mean the Moors, (for the Christians wear neither any green, nor the white Turban) but most part of them are half naked, and many have no more but a blew shirt upon their body. They are a very ignorant sort of people, and yet have Secrets which surprize the most knowing, many thinking them to be knacks of Magick; for to see a man take up a Viper in the Fields, handle and stroak it, open the mouth of it, and put his Finger therein, without the least hurt, seems very strange to me. They bring whole Sacks full of them into the City, and sell them to the Apothecaries: They come often to the Quarter of the French, and boldly thrusting their hand into their Sacks, pull

out a whole handful of them. One day one of these blades handling his Vipers in this manner in the quarter of the French, they brought a Pullet and made one of the Vipers bite it, which immediately thereupon died; so that it evidently appeared, that the Moor had something about him which preserved him against their Poyson. But I cannot tell what to say of a Moorish Woman who lives in a corner close by the quarter of France,* 1.535 and pulls worms out of Childrens Ears. When a Child does nothing but cry, and that they know it is ill, they carry it to that Woman, who laying the Child on its side upon her knee, scratches the Ear of it, and then Worms like those which breed in musty weevely Flower, seem to fall out of the Childs Ear; then turning it on the other side, she scratches the other Ear, out of which the like Worms drop also; and in all there may come out ten or twelve, which she wraps up in a Linnen-Rag, and gives them to those that brought the Child to her, who keep them in that Rag at home in their House; and when she has done so, she gives them back the Child, which in reality cries no more. She once told me that she performed this by means of some words, that she spake. There was a French Physician and a great Naturalist there, who attentively beheld this, and told me that he could not conceive how it could be done; but that he knew very well, that if a child had any of these Worms in its head, it would quickly die. In so much, that the Moors and other Inhabitants of Caire, look upon this as a great Vertue, and give her every time a great many Maidins. They say, that it is a secret which hath been long in the Family. There are children every day carried to her, roaring and crying, and such as would see the thing done, need only to follow them, provided they be not Musulman Women who carry them, for then it would cost an Avanie; but when they are Christian or Jewish Women, one may easily enter, and give a few Maidins to that Worm-drawer. The Language that is spoken in Aegypt is the Arabick, which is a dialect of the Hebrew, but very copious,* 1.536 and the most ample Language that ever I heard spoken, and is indeed used in a great many Countreys; it is very difficult to be pronounced, because it has many gut∣tural words; and therefore when the Turks at Constantinople would make them∣selves merry, they make Arabs speak that Language before them, and yet it is their holy Language for their Alcoran, and all their Prayers are in Arabick; it is a common saying with them, That the Turkish Language serves in this World, the Arabick shall be spoken in Paradise, and in Hell the Persian, which never∣theless is a fine Tongue, and makes the greatest part of the Turkish Poems and Songs; but seeing they extreamly hate the Persians, they revile every thing that concerns them.

CHAP. LXXVI. Of the Circumcision of the Moorish Females; and of the Santo's of Aegypt.

THE Moors are Mahometans, but they have some Superstitions,* 1.537 which the Turks have not, for the Moors Circumcise their Daughters, cutting off a little bit of that which is called the Nymphe, and that Circum∣cision is performed by Women. The Turks do not do so, they only Circum∣cise their Boys. As the Moors are great Hypocrites, so have they many sorts of Santo's among them. They have dancing Dervishes, of whom I wrote when I was at Constantinople, but they have a great many others besides these, whom they much honour; among the rest, there are some as horrible as the Dancers are pleasant; I saw none of them at Constantinople, because they perform

their Ceremonies too late, (though there be some of them towards Tophana) but at Caire I have often seen them very easily, because they have a little Mosque in the quarter of France. They are cloathed much in the same man∣ner as the Dancers, and have felt-caps after the same fashion. These men say their prayers much oftener than the other Musulmans do, but chiefly on Tues∣days and Thursdays about ten or eleven a clock at night. They all meet at the Mosque at the call of him who goes up to the top of the Tower, then they fall a singing some verses of the Alcoran, which they often repeat, so that they have enough to last them till day, clapping their hands now and then against one anothers, playing on certain Drums and such like Instruments; but about the middle, after they have long sung the Alcoran, they all rise upright and put themselves into a Ring one behind another; then he who is the chief, sings some prayers very loud; and in the mean time the rest instantly say over and over, almost without fetching breath, Allah, which is to say God, making at every time a very low bow: so that their straining to pronounce that word, which they draw out from the depth of their Breast, without intermission or taking breath, with the frequent bending of their Body in these inclinations, make them look like men possessed, and especially towards the end, when being quite out of Breath, one of them beats his Drum as fast as he can and the rest pronounce the word Allah as fast, and almost as often as he strikes upon his Drum; so that they foam like mad Dogs, and some with the violence of straining, void Blood at the Mouth. This lasts about half an hour; but towards the end, they say no more but Hou, that is to say, he, which is as good as if they had said God, because they want strength to pronounce Allah; insomuch that to hear them about the end, one would think he heard so many Hogs grunting, when that is done, they sit down as before, and take a little rest, singing other Prayers; then towards the end they start up and begin their sweet Musick again, which they do three times, and then continue on singing as before. I have often been stun'd with this at Rossetto, where I fancy they do it more than in any other place, for my Chamber-Window looked into their Mosque: I lodged in a Han because I would not part from the Chiot Gentleman, with whom I came from Chio. But at Caire they have a little Mosque in the quarter of the French, in which every Tuesday and Thursday they fall to that Catterwouling about ten a Clock at Night; there they may easily be seen from the street, standing over against the door of their Mosque; for one must have a special care not to enter into it, nor indeed to set foot upon the threshold of the door. These are a sort of men that take a great deal of pains to damn themselves. In their Processions you always see some of these fools, who foam at the mouth like mad Men, and with shut eyes pronounce the word Hou, having a man on each side, to support them for fear of falling; and they who can keep longest in that Extasie, (for they think they are in an Extasie) are the greatest Saints: There are Santo's also in Aegypt who go stark naked, many of whom I have seen without the least rag to cover their Nakedness, either in Winter or Summer, but it is not very cold there, and they suffer all their Hair to grow as long as it can, for greater Mortification. These men are highly honoured, and going to the Houses of the chief Persons of the City at dinner-time, they sit down at Table, dine, and so go their way, and that is look'd upon as a blessing to the House, they are very lascivious Rogues, and that for both Sexes; and it is no fiction, that many Women who cannot be got with Child, kiss their Priapus with great veneration, nay sometimes they procure a Great-Belly by them. There was one of these blades hretofore carried a great Stone hanging at his Glans, and the Women heartily kissed it for a Big Belly. Others eat Serpents, and in my time there was one of them at Caire, whom they called the Scheik of the Serpents; this Man had always a great train of Scheiks and other people after him, when he went out, or returned home to his House. I did not see him eat Serpents, but several who have seen him assured me of it, and it is a thing no body doubts of. I saw also at Caire a Santo who had a Turban as broad as a Mill-stone,

and weighed above half a hundred weight; it was all patched up of several little pieces of different colours: Every one came and kiss'd his hand with great respect, the weight of his Turban making him walk very softly, and with a great deal of Gravity. There are many other sorts of Santo's, and in a word, enough in Aegypt to man out several Galleys. The Turks who are nothing near so superstitious as the Arabs, have no such esteem for them; and formerly there was a Basha who sent as many of these lazy Lubbards as he could find to the Galleys. They have also dead Santo's to whose memory they bear a singular Reverence; some of them are Interr'd upon the High-ways and upon Bridges, and when the Moors find any of these Sepulchres, they ask leave of the Santo who is within, to go that way, or cross over that Bridge. But I think the chief of the dead Santo's whom they reverence in Aegypt, is Sidi Ahmet el bedoui; for being at Caire on the ninth of July, I saw a great many people go to a certain Fair that is kept at a Village called Meni∣tegamr in the Isle or Delta of Aegypt, on the side of the Channel of Rossetto.* 1.538 That Fair is held there, because the said Scheik is Interr'd in that place, where they pray at his Grave, and from all parts of Aegypt People come to this Fair and Devotion. They say that at that time, this Sidi Ahmet el Bedoui, yearly delivers three Slaves out of Malta, and three Moors fail not to be there, and affirm that the night before, they were brought from Malta, where they had been Slaves. One day a Turk of Quality, who had been a Slave in Malta, went thither, and finding these Rogues to assert a Lie with so much boldness, put so many questions to them, that he convicted them of the Cheat. They relate a great many vertues of this Hellish Saint, of which it was none of the least, that he never knew Woman, only lay with his own she Ass They also tell how this Santo having some priviledge granted him by a Basha, and that another Basha offering to take it from him, he went on a time to the appartment of that Basha, and being brought in before him, told him that he had had that priviledge a long time, and prayed him to let him enjoy it; but finding after much entreaty, that the Basha was inexorable, he turned up his cap a little that the point of it might encline to one side, and said to the Basha, thou wilt not then suffer me to enjoy my priviledge? and the Basha answered him no; then turning his Cap a little more to one side, thou wilt not then, (said he to the Basha) let me enjoy my priviledge; who replied no; then turning his Cap a great deal to one side, the Basha percei∣ved that the Castle leaned all to one side, and was ready to fall, for the Castle turned side-ways proportionally as he had turned his Cap, whereupon the Basha in a great fright assured him that he would preserve his Priviledge unto him, and prayed him to set the Castle upright as it was before, which he did, by setting his Cap by little and little to rights again. They have so much Devotion for that Saint, that when the Caravan of Mecha sets out in time of that Fair, many leave the Caravan and Pilgrimage of Mecha, and pay their Visits to that Saint. This devotion lasts a fortnight, and all Persons Moors, Christians and Jews, are suffered to go to that Fair. When they have visi∣ted that Saint, they go to another not far distant, then to another, and so to four or five; in short, they spend a Month in these Devotions.

CHAP. LXXV. Of the Cophtes.

* 1.539THE Cophtes are Christians, but Jacobites, that is to say, who follow the Heresie of Eutyches and Dioscorus, though some however among them be Orthodox, and are called Melchites. They have a Patriarch in Alexandria, whose Authority reaches very far, for he chuses one of his Clergy and sends him to be Patriarch to the Abyssins in Aethiopia, as I said before. The Cophtes are so very ignorant and unpolished, that they have much ado to find a man among them fit to be their Patriarch, and so in my time, the Patriarchate had been vacant for some years; the truth is, there was another reason for it also, for they could not raise a sum of Money that must be given to the Basha, for the admission of every new Patriarch. They retain a great many Fa∣bulous stories taken out of Apocryphal Books, which they have still among them. We have no History of our Saviours life during his Minority, but they have a great many relations of it; for they say, that every day an Angel brought him Victuals down from Heaven, and that he spent his time, in making little Birds of Clay, which afterwards he breathed upon, and so throwing them up into the Air, they flew away. They say, that at our Lords Supper a roasted Cock was served up, and that then Judas being gone out to sell and betray our Lord, he commanded the Roasted Cock to rise and go after Judas; which the Cock did, and afterwards brought back word to our Lord, that Judas had sold him, and that therefore that Cock was admitted into Paradise. They say Mass in the Cophtick and Arabick Tongues, and when they sing the Passion, and come to the place where it is said that Judas betrayed our Lord, all the people cry Arsat, that is to say, Horned Beast, (Cuckold) in this manner avenging our Lord, by reviling of Judas. And when they read that St. Peter cut off the ear of the High-Priest's Servant, all the People cry Asia Boutros, that is to say, well fair you for that, Peter, as if they would encourage St. Peter by their Applause. The Cophtes serve for Clerks to the Divan of the Beys and Villages.

CHAP. LXXVI. Of the Franks that live in Aegypt, and the Ava∣nies which are put upon them.

* 1.540THere are Franks who live in several places of Aegypt, to wit, in Caire, Rossetto, and Alexandria; but the Consuls live at Caire, because the Basha resides in that City; they have Vice-Consuls in Rossetto and Alexandria, and sometimes in Damiette.* 1.541 There is in Caire a French Consul, a Venetian, an English, and a Dutch; all other Nations that Traffick in that Countrey, or in any part of the Turkish Empire, go under the Banner of France, as the Messines, Geneose, &c. and the French Consul protects them.

The Consuls in Aegypt have from the Grand Signior a yearly Pension of six thousand Maidins, which amount to two hundred Piastres; but the Consul of Venice, has only two thousand Maidins, and yet is obliged to make a Present of about two thousand Piastres to every new Basha, whereas the rest are excused

for about a thousand; for it is the custome when a new Basha comes, or a new Consul enters into Office, to send the Basha a present of so many Vests, and so many besides to some other Officers, which are rated at above a thou∣sand Piastres,* 1.542 not reckoning a great many other Vails that are to be given every day almost to the Sous-Basha and several other Knaves. When the Consul hath sent his Present, he demands Audience of the Basha, who having assigned him a day, he goes to wait upon him, and the Basha makes him to sit down over against him in a Chair or Couch, or else near to himself upon a Divan, and when the Consul takes his leave, the Basha gives him a Vest of Cloath of Tissue to put on, and one to the chief Trucheman, on whom also he bestows a small Pension, and raises the pay of the Consuls Janizaries. Herteofore the Consuls had the honour of Beys, but at present they are pul∣led down very low, and so little regarded, especially in Aegypt; that a Basha makes no scruple to put Avanies upon them when he pleases; and while I was in Aegypt I knew the Turks and Jews squeeze from the French Nation above fourscore or an hundred thousand Piastres in one year, because the Jews are very powerful in Aegypt, and govern all the affairs of that Kingdom; the Customes being in their hands, and they being the only Serats or Bankers. Besides that, they enjoy some Offices about the Basha, which make them have his Ear; and they daily put new inventions into his Head, for raising of Ava∣nies: He has three principal Officers, to wit, the Basha's Schelebi, which is an Office instituted within these few years; the Saraf Basha, and the Saraf of the Basha, who set their Wits continually a devising, and think of nothing else but of ways how to persecute the poor Franks. A Turk told me one day, that the Jews were the Turks Hounds for catching Money from the Franks; for the Turks of themselves are neither malicious nor cunning enough, to chase the Prey; but when once the Jews have made sure of the Game, the Turks come in and carry all away. I have known the Consuls several times put in Prison, and always most unjustly. An English Merchant-man bound for Aegypt was met and pursued by six Turkish Ships coming from Candie;* 1.543 in the Chase he fired several Guns. and killed three Janizaries; but so soon as the Ships arrived in Aegypt, and this was known, the English Consul was put into Pri∣son, and for some days kept there; but this is nothing, in respect of what happened some time after:

The Turks having freighted two French Ships with goods in Alexandria,* 1.544 the one commanded by Captain Durbequi, and the other by Captain Civilliers, and one English Ship, to all which they gave a good Freight; Captain Durbequi instead of going to Constantinople, (as he ought to have done) went to Legorn, with a design to make the best of his Cargoe; Captain Civilliers and the English Captain followed the Example; upon this, Ships durst not come from Christendom to Aegypt, fearing the loss might be revenged upon them; but in the mean time, the Jews having had advice from Legorn that the Ships were arrived in that Port, presently acquainted the Basha with it, who at that time dissembling his Indignation, sent an Aga to assure the Consuls that the Ships of their Countrey were in no Danger, and that they might come as freely and with as much safety as they did before, entreating the Consuls to send this advice into Christendom; each Consul presented the Aga with a Vest to the value of fifty Piastres; for it is a general rule that Aga's never come in Message to any person whatsoever, Consul or private man, Christian or Turk, but they must be presented according to the merit of the business, whether good or bad. A few days after, when they thought that the Consuls had sent Letters into Christendom, according to the orders sent to them, on which the Consuls did really rely; one morning an Aga with a Chiaoux and such other Rogues, came to their several Houses, and halling them out like Thieves and Robbers by force, put them upon ugly Horses without allowing them time to dress themselves, one being in his Slippers, and another in his Night-Cap, and with all imaginable rigour carried them Prisoners to the Castle, being even in danger of being knocked on the Head in the Streets, for the Villains spead about a report that the Franks had robbed the Grand Signior's Money, which much incensed the People. The Dutch and Venetian Consuls were carried away in the same manner, though they were not at all

concerned in the business, but they were no sooner come into the Castle, when they were sent home again to their Houses; though for all that, it cost them an hundred Piastres a piece to the Aga's and Chiaoux, as a reward for the pains they had been at. The other two Consuls lay several days in Prison, nay, and were for the first day put in Chains, and at length were not released, till their Nations paid great sums for their liberty, and promised the Basha to pay within a few Months, the value of the Ships Loadings; for which all the Merchants were obliged under hand and Seal. If the Capitulations made by Monsieur de Breves, were observed, such violences would not be used, as I my self have seen practiced by the Sous-Basha, who sent his Officers one night into the quarter of the French, some Merchants walking then in the open place, which is at the end of their Quarter, having perceived them coming, retired to their homes, but the Villains pursuing them to the very tops of their Houses, halled them out, and with all the speed they could dragged them to a nasty Prison, upon pretext that they had found them abroad at unseasonable hours, for it is prohibited to walk abroad in the streets in the Night-time; but the French are excepted by the Capitulations, which specifie that the Sous-basha is not to enter into their Quarter: They ran away with them in all haste, for fear they might be taken from them; and to make them run the faster, each of them was led by two Cowas, one holding one Arm and the other the other.* 1.545 These Cowas are Moorish Recors or Officers, tall strong fellows, who wear no other Cloaths but blew-Shirts, sewed close like Womens Smocks; they carry staves as long as themselves, and as big as a Mans Arm; and when they carry any man to Prison, they give him now and then a blow with their Cudgel, which they hold in both hands by the end, that they may lay on the better. Thus were these Gentle∣men dragg'd away, each of them by two of these great Devils, who empti∣ed their pockets by the way, and pulled even the Rings off of their Fingers: but what was worst of all, other Cowas followed them at the back, who so banged their fides with their poles, that they were forced to keep their Beds for some days after. In the mean time the other Merchants, who thought that if they let them alone till next day, the Charges would be the greater, went immediately with the Consul, (though it was eleven a clock at night) to the Sous-Basha, and presented him with a Purse, in consideration whereof he released the Prisoners, and let them go home with the rest. Two days after, the Basha threatened to Imprison the fame Merchants, under pretext that the Sous-Basha's Officers had found them with Women, though it was false, and though they could draw no evidence of the matter from some Bar∣berins whom the Sous-Basha's men found at the same time in the French Quarter, and purposely clap'd into Prison when they apprehended the French Merchants; however it cost them three Purses more to take up that affair. Monsieur Honore de Bermond, in whose Family the Consulship of Egypt continued for many years, had a design to remedy all these Disorders, who being a man of Resolution and very well beloved in that Countrey, purposed to raise his Office to as high a pitch as ever it had been, and for that end, sent his Chief Trucheman to Constantinople, with instructions to sollicite the Grand Signior for several Orders, and among the rest, for one to have two or three of the chief Jews Hanged before their own Doors in Caire, thereby to terrify the rest from putting their tricks upon the French: and another of no less importance, to wit, that the Jews should not demand from the French, re∣payment of the money they had lent them, because they had received double the principal in Interest, (for they take one percent Usury a month, adding the Interest to the Principal every month, which amounts to considerable gains, doubling almost the debt in twenty six months time.) He spared not Money to accomplish these things, and would easily have obtained them, if Monsieur de Begue had not come at that time, for his coming broke all the others measures, bred a confusion among the Nation, and cost them above threescore thousand Piastres, for he promised the Basha great sums of Money to admit of him to be Consul, and to send off Monsieur de Bermond, who for some time was obliged to give way to that violence. Had he obtained these orders from the Port, they might have contributed somewhat to the prevent∣ing

of so many Avanies; but the best course that could be taken, would be, to have the Capitulations made by Monsieur de Breves with Sultan Amurat, at that time Grand Signior, renewed at Constantinople: It is true, that would cost a round sum of Money, for the Turks do nothing gratis, but then it would exempt from Indignities, such as go into those Countries, that are remote from Constan∣tinople, as Caire in Egypt is.

When a Frank goes along the streets, you shall have one rascally Moor spit in his face, another give him a blow with a Cudgel, and in the mean time he dares not so much as look them in the face, for fear of a present Avanie; for many times after they have beaten a Christian, or it may be, given him a stab with a knife, though the Christian hath not revenged himself, they'll go and complain to the Cady, saying that the same Christian hath beaten them, and to lift the hand against a Turk, is a Crime that deserves (with them) the cutting off of the hand; but the matter must presently be compounded for Money, and the longer it is delayed, the more it will cost; nay, you shall see a Turk, who ha∣ving killed a Christian that did him no hurt, go and complain to the Cady, that that Christian had beaten him, or blasphemed against the Law of Mahomet, which is a Crime for which a Christian must be burnt, or turn Turk; and though commonly the Cady knows very well that all is false, yet he still Condemns the Christians, that he may get money; and if the party who is so unhappy, have nothing to give, they Charge the Nation with it, and exact it from them by force.

I saw also a Woman, who passing by a French man, purposely josled him,* 1.546 and then went and complained that he struck her a blow on the breast, and that she had a big Belly, which cost him an hundred Piastres.

There are likewise Rascals, who will inform against a Christian, that they saw him with a Woman, but that they could not apprehend him, because he made his escape, and they want not false Witnesses for that; if it be a Turkish Woman with whom he is accused to have been, he must turn Turk, or Burn for it; if it be a Christian or Jewish Woman, the rigour is not so great; but whether Turk, Christian, or Jew, that (as any other Vanie) is compounded for Money.

In short, they'll do any thing to suck Money from the poor Franks, obliging those who live near to them, even to keep their Windows always shut, preten∣ding that they would not have them look upon their Wives, but in reality, to get some Present from them.

I could make a whole Book of the Avanies, which I have seen practised when I was in that Countrey, but it is sufficient to have mentioned some, to shew how much these Rascals despise and insult over us. I wave this among others, that all Christians (whether they be Franks or not) must have a care to alight from their Asses,* 1.547 not only when they pass by the Mehkieme (which is the Hall of Justice,) but also when the chief of the Scherifs passes, or when they meet seve∣ral Persons of Quality, and especially the Black Eunuchs coming from the Grand Signior's Serraglio, who are Men of Power; now seeing these Devils are very proud, they have always a great Train with them, and make the Christians render them that testimony of Respect, which nevertheless is not their due, but a Custome abusively introduced; but if a Christian did not alight as they passed by, their Cowas would dismount him, and drub him soundly with their Cudgels.

CHAP. LXXVII. Of the Vestments which the Greek Patriarch of Alex∣andria wears when he Celebrates.

* 1.548I Have but little to say of the Greeks in this place, having spoken of them else∣where. There are many of them in Aegypt, and have a Patriarch there, who (aswel as the Primate of the Cophtes) carries the Title of Patriarch of Alexan∣dria, but he resides commonly at Caire. I saw him Celebrate Mass at Caire on a Holy-Thursday, and shall here relate in few words, what I observed of that Ceremony. This Patriarch, when he Celebrates, is cloathed in the same Vestments as the other Patriarchs are,* 1.549 except that he has a Stole over these Vestments, which the others have not, and which was given to a Patriarch of Alexandria by a Pope. Over that Stole he wears the Pallium, which is bigger and longer than that of the Latin Arch-Bishops; then he puts upon his head a lovely Tiara, or Cap of Silver gilt, set thick with fine Pearls, some of which are pretty big, with many large Rubies, Emeralds, and other such Precious stones, but it hath not three Crowns, as the Tiara of the Popes has. This Cap was presented to him by the Duke of Muscovy, who is never omitted in all the Prayers of the Greeks: It is certainly a very rich Cap, though it come far short of the riches of the Crown of the Popes, which is kept in the Castle of St. An∣gelo. The Patriarch Celebrates Mass as all other Greek Priests do; only after the Epistle hath been read in Greek, it is also read in Arabick; it is the same with the Gospel, and some other Prayers, which the Patriarch says aloud in Greek, and then repeats in Arabick.

As to the Communion, when the Patriarch hath consecrated some pieces of Bread, then the Wine in a very great Chalice, because of the great number of Communicants; he crumbs some pieces of that Consecrated Bread into the Chalice, then having publickly asked Forgiveness of all that are present, he Communicates of the Lord's Body; afterwards taking the Cup, and having said some Prayers, he says, In Name of the Father, and takes a little of the hallowed Cup; then having said, and of the Son, he takes a little more; and lastly, and of the Holy Ghost, he takes a third sip. When that is done, he Communicates the Priests, giving each of them the Bread, which they receeive in one hand, and holding the other under to receive any thing that might fall, they go to the side of the Altar, where after some Prayers, they ask Forgiveness of the rest, and then Communicate; after that, they go to the Altar, where the Patriarch gives them the Cup at three times, as he took it himself, saying, In Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.

The People Communicate without the Chancel from the hand of a Priest, who taking the Chalice, goes to one of the side Doors of the Chancel, where in a gilt Silver-Spoon he gives of the Consecrated Bread crumbled into the Wine (as I said before) to all who come to receive; but the truth is, they go to the Communion with far less reverence than the Latins do.

Mass being over, the Patriarch went in the body of the Church, to a place Rail'd in, raised about three foot from the ground, at the end whereof there was a Chair for him, and on each side, six Chairs, for twelve Priests that fol∣lowed him; and there being all in Copes, they sate down. These twelve Priests represented the twelve Apostles; then a Priest went to the Chancel-door, and turning his back to the Altar, read the Gospel for Holy-Thursday in Greek: In the mean time, the Patriarch put off his Patriarchal Ornaments, without the assistance of any, and putting on again his Tiara, he tied one Nap∣kin about him, and put another by his side; then setting a great Bason and Ewer upon the ground, he poured a little Water into the Bason, making the sign of the Cross, giving the Ewer to a Clerk, who poured water upon the foot of the first of the twelve Apostles, whilst the Patriarch washed and rubbed it well with his hands, then wiped it with his napkin, and offered to kiss it, which the

Priest would not suffer. He did so to the rest, pouring always out water for every one of them, with the sign of the Cross; but when he came to the twelfth, that Priest (who represented St. Peter) rose and made as if he would not suffer the Patriarch to wash his Feet, in imitation of St. Peter, who was unwilling that his Master should render him that service; but at length, after he had spoken a little, and that the Patriarch had made answer, he sate down, as St. Peter did, who being told by Jesus Christ, That he could have no part in the Kingdom of Heaven, if he suffered him not to wash his Feet, said, Not my Feet only, but my also Head and Hands.

During this Ceremony, nothing was to be heard in the Church, but the groans and lamentations of Men and Women, which were so loud, that they moved even the most obdurate almost, to shed tears also, and yet the subject of all this weeping, was, only to see the Patriarch wash the Feet of these Priests. After this, the Patriarch put on his Patriarchal Habits again, and the Ewer and Bason were carried away; then came such a Croud about him that carried them away, that I thought they would have stifled him, every one strove to dip a Handkerchief into that Foot-laver, and came on so fast, that before the Clerk had made six steps, the Bason was as dry as ever it was. Then the Gospel was read, the Heads whereof the Patriarch explained in a Greek Sermon, and so the Ceremony ended.

CHAP. LXXVIII. Of the Jews and Turks that are in Aegypt.

IT remains now that I speak of the Jews and Turks who are in Aegypt.* 1.550 As for the Jews, I have spoken of them before, and shall only add here, that there a great many Jews at Caire, who have a Quarter where they all live by themselves; this is a large Quarter, and contains a great many Streets, but all short, narrow, nasty and stinking. The Jews manage all the Customs in Aegypt, and all the Serafs are Jews. Aegypt is Governed by a Basha,* 1.551 sent thi∣ther by the Grand Signior, and it is the second Bashaship of all the Turkish Em∣pire; that of Buda is the chief, but it is only in Honour, for it yields no Profit; on the contrary, the Grand Signior is obliged to send Money thither for maintaining the Garison: But this is a profitable Government, for the first day the Basha of Aegypt arrives at Caire, he hath an Hundred thousand Piastres, and every Month after, seven Purses, not reckoning the many casual Profits which he has on all occasions. And indeed, he buys this Government, paying for it sometimes two or three hundred thousand Piastres; and besides that, he must furnish vast Sums from the Revenue of Aegypt, before he put a Penny into his own Coffers, paying yearly five Hazna. Now a Hazna or Treasure,* 1.552 consists of 1200. Purses, which make thirty Millions of Maidins, that is Nine hundred and nine thousand and ninety Piastres Royals, and thirty Maidins; so that five Haznas are fifty millions of Maidins, or Four millions five hundred forty five thousand, four hundred fifty four Piastres Royals, and eighteen Maidins. One of these Hazna is sent to the Grand Signior in Money, another in Provisions, a third is employed in paying the Soldiers, and all Officers in Aegypt; the fourth is for the Present of Mecha, and the last for the Basha. He is besides all this, obliged now and then to give great Sums, for securing himself in his Place, at least till he be reimbursed the money that he hath laid out. For instance, One at Constantinople, may perhaps, offer the Grand Sig∣nior Two hundred thousand Piastres, to be made Basha of Caire; this is made known to him that is in place, who (if he have a mind to keep his place) must give the same sum that the other hath offered, and so has the Preference. I believe the Grand Signior often imposes upon them in this manner. So in the Year 1658. on the first of July, an Olak arrived at Caire from Constantinople, who

brought the Basha a Sword and Caftan from the Grand Signior, as a Testimony that he continued him in the Bashaship of Aegypt. It was thought at first, that the Olak was come to make him Mansoul; because it commonly happens, that at the end of the Ramadan, when they have sent the Hazna to Constanti∣nople, they are made Mansouls. But this Man, (that he might be before-hand with his Enemies) had ordered three thousand Purses to be given some time before at Constantinople, for his Confirmation in the place; for which the Grand Signior continued him in the Government.* 1.553 This Olak entred the Castle in the Morning with the Caftan and Sword, and then the Guns went off for joy. It is not to be thought strange, that this Basha so tyrannically oppresses People, but rather that he does not do it more. Every Basha brings with him from Constantinople, the Charavalla, who takes care to Collect all the Customs of Aegypt, which wholly depend on him, and he Lodges in the Serraglio of the Basha. Every one brings with him also his Seraf, who manages his Money: As for the Seraf Basha, who is another Jew taken at Caire, he takes care of the Grand Signior's Revenue. Then there is at Caire the Cadilesquer, or chief Judge, who is at Caire what the Mufti is at Constantinople, and is Independent of the Basha, being sent or recalled immediately by the Grand Signior: After them,* 1.554 there is in Aegypt Twenty four Sangiack Beys, and of those who are called Charkish Beys, there are above forty. The Charkish Beys were Instituted before the Sangiacks, and their care is to Guard the City; yet they are inferi∣our to the Sangiack Beys, whose province is to keep the Country. Each Bey has a Purse a Month, and to procure the place, it costs at least an Hundred thousand Piastres,* 1.555 partly given at Constantinople, and partly in Aegypt. Most of these Beys are Renegadoes that have been Slaves, who endeavour at their own cost, to make some of their slaves Beys, in their own Life-time, that they may have them at their devotion. These Beys are the Lords of the Country, and are very powerful; some of them can command Ten thousand Arabs in the Country, at an hours warning. There is one of these Sangiack Beys al∣ways at old Caire, who keeps Guard there, and another upon the Road from the Matharee to Boulac, and at some other places of Caire, for fear of the Arabs; and these Sangiack Beys mount the Guard by turns, and stay on every one his Mouth.* 1.556 There are two Custom-Houses belonging to Caire, to wit, one at Boulac, for what comes from Rossetto and Damiette; and another at old Caire, for what comes from Sayde, or the Thebais. There is in Caire also a Sous-basha, who is as it were a Mayor or Provost; he hath three Officers under him,* 1.557 to wit, the Asar Basha, who is a Chorbagi, the Devedar, who is his Lieutenant, and the Oda Basha. There is a Sous-basha also at Boulac, and ano∣ther at old Caire.* 1.558 As to the Militia, there are Twelve thousand Janizaries in Aegypt, of whom there is Seven thousand in Caire; besides Thirty five thou∣sand others, who are under pay in the Country. When the Janizaries march in body, about ten in Front, a Janizary carries a Borachio full of Water, with several Cups, to give his Comerades who are dry, Water to drink; and this charge is so Honourable, that when they are removed from it, they are made Chorbagis.* 1.559 The Officers of the Janizaries are, the Aga, who is General, the Kiaya, who is his Lieutenant, the Basch Chaousch, who is Ensign, the Beitul∣mal Chaousch, the Alai Chaousch, who is Serjeant Major, the Koutchu Chaousch, who calls the Chorbadgi, that is Captain of a Company, the Oda Basha, who is the chief of a Division. To rise to any of these Offices, one must have been Saradge to the Kiaya or Aga, then they mount up from the lowest to the highest of these places. The Chorbagis are made either for Money, or some signal piece of Service;* 1.560 Oda Bashas are presented according to Seniority. No Moors are made Janizaries, and they exclude them, that they may keep them always under. Nevertheless, the strength of Aegypt consists chiefly in the Arabs of the Country, who will get together into a Body of several thousand Horse, in the twinkling of an Eye.

CHAP. LXXIX. Of Punishments in Ʋse in Aegypt.

THE usual Punishments in Aegypt are Beheading,* 1.561 which they dextrously perform: For the Sous-basha finding a Robber, or any one that looks like such, seises him, and making him kneel, one of his Men cuts off his Head at one blow with a Shable, and yet not striking with great force neither; but drawing towards him the Shable, and so usiing the whole length of it, he never fails at the first blow to sever the Head from the Body.* 1.562 Impaling is also a very ordinary Punishment with them, which is done in this manner. They lay the Malefactor upon his Belly, with his Hands tied behind his Back, then they slit up his Fundament with a Razor, and throw into it a handful of Paste that they have in readiness, which immediately stops the Blood; after that they thrust up into his Body a very long Stake as big as a Mans Arm, sharp at the point and tapered, which they grease a little before; when they have driven it in with a Mallet, till it come out at his Breast, or at his Head or Shoulders, they lift him up, and plant this Stake very streight in the Ground, upon which they leave him so exposed for a day. One day I saw a Man upon the Pale, who was Sentenced to continue so for three Hours alive, and that he might not die too soon, the Stake was not thrust up far enough to come out at any part of his Body, and they also put a stay or rest upon the Pale, to hin∣der the weight of his body from making him sink down upon it, or the point of it from piercing him through, which would have presently killed him: In this manner he was left for some Hours, (during which time he spoke) and turning from one side to another, prayed those that passed by to kill him, ma∣king a thousand wry Mouths and Faces, because of the pain he suffered when he stirred himself, but after Dinner the Basha sent one to dispatch him; which was easily done, by making the point of the Stake come out at his Breast, and then he was left till next Morning, when he was taken down, because he stunk horridly. Some have lived upon the Pale until the third day, and have in the mean while smoaked Tobacco, when it was given them. This poor wretch carried the Scales and Weights, of those who go about to visit the Weights, to see if they be just, and he had so combined with such as had false Weights, that he brought false ones also with him; so that the Searchers not perceiving the change of their own Weights, thought the other to be just. When Arabs, or such other Robbers are carried to be Empaled, they put them on a Camel, their Hands tied behind their Backs, and with a Knife make great gashes in their naked Arms, thrusting into them Candles of Pitch and Rosin, which they light, to make the stuff run into their Flesh; and yet some of these Rogues go chearfully to Death, glorying (as it were) that they could deserve it, and saying, That if they had not been brave Men, they would not have been so put to death. This is a very common and ordinary Punish∣ment in Aegypt, but in Turkie it is but very rarely put into practice. The Na∣tives of the Country are punished in this manner, but the Turks are strangled in Prison.

CHAP. LXXX. Of the Inconveniencies and Ordinary Distem∣pers at Caire.

* 1.563THE first Inconvenience to be felt at Caire, is the excessive Heat, which is so intolerable, that one can scarcely do any thing, and what is worse, there is no sleeping hardly there in Summer. For when you go to Bed, you'll find the Sheets full of Sand, and so hot, that I think they could not be more, after long warming with a Warming-pan. What you drink there, is commonly as hot as your Blood, for you must not think of Ice, Snow, or a Well there; all that can be done, is to put the Water into certain Pots of a white Earth, that Transpires much, and leave them abroad in the Night-time, having done so, the Water is indeed pretty cold in the Morning; but in the Day-time they put those Pots in Windows, which receive any little breeze, and there the Water cools a little, or at least loses somewhat of its heat; and it is a great happiness in that Country, to have a Window that lies well for a breeze, and a Bardaque, or Pot, that is Transpirable. Besides these Inconveniencies, there is that of little Flies, or Musketto's, which I reckon the greatest of all. No Man can believe but he who hath felt it by Experience, how uneasie and troublesome these Insects are in Aegypt; there are always swarms of them buz∣zing about People, and continually pricking of them, so that they make themselves fat and plump with Man's Blood. There is no other remedy against these Gnats, but to have a very fine Cloth all round your Bed, which shuts very close; and for all that, some always get in, when you go to lie down.

A pain in the Stomach is very common in that Country, and all New-comers are subject unto it, who finding themselves in a hot Countrey, leave their Breast and Stomach open, and will not take Counsel. Nevertheless, the Air (which is subtile and penetrating) chills their Bowels, and causes dangerous Fevers and Bloody-Fluxes, especially in Autumn when the Nile overflows, and therefore one must always keep the Stomach warm and well covered. There is another Distemper that reigns there also, and that is a swelling of the Scrotum, and to some (I may speak without Exaggerating) their Cods swell bigger than their Head, which is occasioned by the Water of the Nile; and I my self was troubled a little with it, for the space of eight days, but then it went away of it self. To cure this Distemper, they make Incision with a Lancet in the swelled Scrotum, and let out the Water that is got into it. Sore Eyes are very common there, and very dangerous in the Summer-time; that is caused by the burning heat of the Sun, which reflects from the Ground upon the Eyes, and scorches them, as also from the Dust, which is very subtile and salt, and is blown into the Eyes by the Wind, which is the reason that there are many blind in that Country. Whilst I was in Aegypt, a French Merchant lost an Eye so, and I have known other French troubled with that Distemper, who for a fortnight or three Weeks could not sleep, because of the sharp pain they felt, which made them cry out and roar both Night and Day. In the Summer-time you hardly see any abroad in the Streets, but who are afflicted with that evil, and carry pieces of blew Stuff before their Eyes, and certainly, you shall find nine of ten whom you meet, with such de∣fensives before their Eyes: Every one threatned me with that Distemper, and yet (thanks be to God) I never had the least touch of it; perhaps, I took care to prevent it, because in that bad Season, every Morning and Evening I washed my Eyes with fair Water, and when I returned from Abroad I did the like, to wash out any Sand that might have got into them. Pains in the Legs are very bad at Caire, and a great many have their Legs swollen to a prodigious bigness. There is also another Distemper, or rather inconveni∣ence,

for it is more uneasie than dangerous, which happens when the Water of the Nile begins to rise; there is a kind of Inflammation, or Wild-fire, that runs over the whole Body, which exceedingly torments People by its pricking and stinging; and when you drink to ease and refresh your self, whilst you are drinking, and after, you feel such sharp prickings, that you would think there were an hundred Needles stuck into you all at once; the Provencials call that Des Arelles, and it is an Inconvenience that lasts almost three Months.* 1.564 In March, 1658. after some days of high Winds, a certain Distemper broke out, which began with a Head-ach and Fever, and continued with a great Rhume: The Fever lasted not above two or three days at most, but it ren∣dered Men so feeble, that all the Limbs seemed to be broken, and if Preserva∣tives were not used, the Patients relapsed into a Fever, that held them three Weeks of a Month, all in Caire from the highest to the lowest, both Aged and Young were seised with it, and there was nothing to be heard every where but Coughing; this Distemper was so contagious, that it infected by the Breath. They called it Abou Chamaa,* 1.565 because of a certain Song made some Months before, which began with Abou Chamaa, and ended with Ha, ha, ha. Now seeing that Distemper caused great Coughing, it was thought every one sung Ha, ha, ha; wherefore the Basha prohibited the singing of that Song with so much Rigour, that when the Sous-basha found any one singing it in the Streets, though it had been but a Child, he ordered him to be laid down and Basto∣nadoed; because they fancied that the Song was the cause of the Distemper, which spread so far, that afterwards we learnt at Jerusalem, and in other Places about, that they had been troubled with it at the same time, nay, the Corsairs who took us, had all had it at that time. I was told at Caire, that ten Years before, such another Distemper had raged there, which they called Makassa, that made those who were troubled with it, think all their Limbs to be broken; and they were Cured by eating of Oranges, which made them so dear at that time, that an Orange was worth half a Piastre, so long as that Disease lasted. Once every seven Years they have a Plague in Aegypt, making (during that time) the Circuit of the Turkish Empire, and yet it had been there a little before I came, two Years one after another, sweeping away each Year, (as I was told) an Hundred thousand Souls. All Diseases in Caire are more dangerous during the Hhamchin, than in any other time.* 1.566 Hhamchin, is as much as to say a Cinquantine, because during fifty days time, bad Winds blow. In the Year 1657. the Hhamchin began the seventh of April, and it begins every Year much about the same time. During these fifty days there blows a hot Wind, which brings a great deal of Sand into the Town; so that it gets not only into the Chambers, but also into Trunks, let the Windows and Trunks be never so close shut; and when you go to Bed, you'll find the Sheets full of it. These Winds are so hot, that they stop the Breath, and kill many People in the Caravans; as I said before. Whilst this Hhamchin lasts, all Diseases are dangerous, and continue to be so commonly from that time until the 13, 14, 15, 16, of June,* 1.567 when the Drop or Dew falls infal∣libly in the Night-time, after which, Diseases are not Mortal. This Drop is a Dew which falls in one of the aforesaid Nights, and after that the Plague it self is no longer Mortal.

CHAP. LXXXI. Of the Remedies used by the Moors in their Sicknesses.

THE Moors make no great deal ado about Physicking when they are Sick, and they never think of sending for a Doctor, not only because it would cost them Money, but also becaue they look upon it as a Sin to make use of a Physician, admitting of none other but God Almighty; they make use of very Plain Receipts. And one day I saw a Moor, who had his Face all bruised and broken, with blows of a Cudgel, as if he had been cut with a Sword, apply to it (in my presence) Gun-powder, with Cotten over it; and when I saw him again two days after, no marks of it appeared. When they are stung by a Scorpion, they eat a Raddish, and then all their apprehension of danger is over. They let blood in the Fore-head,* 1.568 to make them more watchful; and some, to cure their sore Eyes. I have seen many Barberins let blood in the Fore-head, for a pain in the Head, and for sore Eyes; they bind a Turban about the Neck, but not so streight as to strangle them, then he who lets Blood, feels for the Vein in the Fore-head, which being found, he puts the cutting end of a Rasor upon it, and giving the Rasor a philip, opens the Vein very neatly, and easily stops it again after it hath bled a good deal, with a little Cotten or some such thing, nay, sometimes with Camels dung.

CHAP. LXXXII. Of the Money and Weights of Aegypt.

* 1.569IN Aegypt, they reckon Money by Purses. A Purse consists of Five and twenty thousand Maidins, which make an Hundred fifty seven Piastres Ryals, and nineteen Maidins, or Eight hundred thirty three Boquells, and ten Maidins. The Turkish Chequin, which they call Scherif, is worth seventy Maidins, and the Venetian, seventy five. The Piastres are worth Thirty three Maidins, the Boquelles, thirty. They are by corruption so called, for their name is Abou Kelb, that is to say, that hath a Dog, because on one side of it there is a Lyon, which they take for a Dog; nay, the Jews call them in Spanish Perros. They have other pieces of Money besides.* 1.570 The Maidin is of Silver, about the bigness of a French Double, but very thin, with some Arabick Characters upon it; it is worth two Aspres and a half, which is somewhat more than three Half-pence English. In a Maidin, there are eight Forles or Bulbes, which are pieces of Copper,* 1.571 as big as French Doubles, but thicker, and are in value somewhat less than an English Farthing; there are half Forles also.

The Weights of Caire, are as at Constantinople; the Quintal, contains 150. Rottes, the Rotte 12. Ounces, the Ounce 12. Drachms, the Drachm 16. Quirats, the Quirat 4. Grains; the Medical, a Drachm and a half, the Oque, 400. Drachms, so that the Oque contains three Rottes, two ninths less.

CHAP. LXXXIII. The History of Don Philippo, Prince of Tunis.

HAving Sojourned a pretty while in Aegypt, and found no Company to Tra∣vel with farther, some other Considerations likewise prompting me, I resolved to return into Christendom. I took the occasion of a great English Ship, called the Recovery, which lay at Bouquer, ready to set sail for Legorn; there were good French Ships at Alexandria, where I might have been very well Accommodated. But for greater Security, I chose rather to go in an English Ship, because the English were at that time in Peace with those of Barbary. I also chose that Passage, as having a great desire to see Tunis, where that Ship was to touch, to land Don Philippo, with several other Barbary Men who were on Board of her; and because I had got a pretty familiar Acquain∣tance of him during this Voyage, I think it will not be amiss to give here a short view of his History, according as I had it from himself by pieces, and a certain Sicilian, who had waited upon him ever since he arrived in Sicily.

Don Philippo, whose Turkish name is Mahomet, is the Eldest Son of the late Dey Ahmet, fourth Dey of Tunis, who was a very austere Man, but yet fond of this Son, that was the Eldest of several other Boys he had. This Prince Ma∣homet being very young, was made General of the Galleys of Biserta, and made an Expedition with them; after which, (being as yet but seventeen or eighteen years of Age) his Father Married him to the Daughter of the Basha of Tripoly, against his Inclination, who loved not the Lady, though she was very Beautiful; but he was forced to Dissemble, for fear of provoking his Father, who was so violent a Man, that his Anger was always Fatal. The Marriage was Celebrated with all imaginable Magnificence, and for the space of three days, there was nothing but Feasting, Plays, Tilting, and other Di∣versions, the Father sparing no Charges in Celebrating the Solemnity of the Wedding. In the mean time, though this Prince was greatly Respected, yet he resolved to quit all his Hopes, and escape into a Country where he never had been, and was unknown; he carried on his Design so cunningly and se∣cretly, that nothing of it was suspected till he was gone. Pretending one day to go take the Air in some place beyond Goletta, he went into a little Boat with four or five Christian Slaves, and some Moors, to row them. When he was past the Goletta, and got a pretty way from it, he put ashoar some of his Moors upon pretext of sending them for something, and then going off to Sea, and a little after, making a sign to the Christians, that it was now time for them to declare themselves, and begin; he shot one of the Moors that remained with an Arrow; and the Christians assisting him, all the rest were quickly killed, or forced to leap into the Sea, of whom some swam ashoar. They then directed their Course towards Sicily, and succeeded so well in it, that in two days time they arrived at Mazara. The Vice-Roy of Sicily was no sooner informed of it, but he sent for the Prince to Palermo, where he was lodged in the Profess-House of the Jesuits, and being there instructed in the Christian Religion, he was afterwards Baptised in the Cathedral Church, by the Arch-Bishop of Palermo, the Vice-Roy being God-Father, and the Vice-Queen God-Mother, who named him Don Philippo. He went from thence to Rome, where he was well received and much honoured by the Pope, who gave him good Presents. He went to Spain, where the King allowed him a Pension, and re∣tiring to Valentia, he fell in love with a Spanish Lady, of no great Fortune, but very Witty, who played very well on the Lute, and Sung to admiration (which was enough to engage the Prince, who is a passionate lover of Musick) he Married her privately, and was at some Charges about it. In the mean time the King of Tunis being informed that his Son was fled into Christendom, fell into such a Rage, that he put about twenty to Death, Slaves and others, and among the rest, the unfortunate Wife of this Prince Mahomet, (whom for

the future we shall call Don Philippo) whom he caused to be strangled, as ha∣ving favoured the flight of his Son. But then, it being out of his Power to Chastise his Son in Person, he Disinherited him, leaving him not so much as one Farthing. Now the Mother of Don Philippo, who was no less afflicted for the loss of her Son, (whom she passionately loved) bethought her self of all ways how she might recover him, and prevailed so far with an English Captain, that he promised to bring him back. This Traytor in execution of his design, came to Valentia, where having soon got acquaintance of this Prince, he found that he wanted Money, and supplied him. Don Philippo ha∣ving got Money, made an Equipage, and soon squandered away two or three Thousand Crowns, that were lent him. But some time after, the Captain de∣manding payment of his Money, put the Prince to a great plunge: He offer'd the Captain a Letter to his Mother, who would pay him all that he had Bor∣rowed of him; but the Captain would not have it. Saying, That he was no more owned in that Country, now he was turned Christian, but that he advi∣sed him to return to Rome, where he had been well received, that his Holi∣ness would still receive him in the same manner, and quickly put him in a condition to repay him; offering him at the same time to carry him thither in his Ship. The Prince embraced the offer, and taking his Wife and some Christian Servants on board with him, put to Sea; but the Captain in stead of directing his Course toward Rome, stood away for Tunis, so that the Prince was all in amaze when he knew Goletta. He had had intelligence in Sicily of the death of his Father, and therefore finding himself betrayed, he made a Vertue of Necessity; and writing a Letter privately to some Friends that he had at Tunis, he sent it ashoar by some of the Ships Company, who secretly brought him an answer. He acquainted those his Friends with his arrival, and asked their advice what way he should enter Tunis. They sent him back an an∣swer, That they would come next day with a Brigantine, and carry him away as by force. Wherefore next Morning he went out in the Ships Boat, that he might go Fish near the shoar, and took with him the Sicilian I mentioned be∣fore, who hath always served him. This Man, who was made believe that they were cast upon Tunis by foul Weather, would have dissuaded him from that Fishing, telling him that he might be known: But he answered, That he was so much altered, that he did not at all fear that, for he had now been several Years absent. They were no sooner got off from the Ship, but a Brigantine full of Armed Men came up towards them, who having fired some shot in the Air, entred the Boat, and with great respect saluted the Prince. But the poor Sicilian (who steered the Boat) was much surprised, not knowing what to do. Immediately they were carried to Tunis, where being arrived, Don Philippo went to see the Dey first, and then his Mother; who expected him with great impatience. The Dey ordered him, as a Punishment for his flying into Christendom, to walk through the Town in the Spanish Apparel he then wore, so that he was a Laughing-stock to all the People; but if he had not had good Friends, he had lost his Head for his flying. After he had seen his Mother, they put him into Turkish Apparel: But when they came to cut off his Hair (which was very lovely and long) he told me, he had much ado to consent to it, and thought that he could more willingly have suffered Death, than parted from his Hair. Nevertheless, having sent for direction from his Confessor concerning the matter: His Confessor sent him this Resolution, That the Chri∣stian Religion consisted not in Hair, and that therefore he should suffer it to be cut off. Then he sent for his Wife to Tunis, (she being with Child) but he had much ado to preserve his Servants liberty; for the Dey and Aga of the Divan, would have had them made Slaves, nevertheless they retained both their Liberty and Religion. Two years after, he would have sent his Wife back again into Christendom, but they would not suffer him; however after many difficulties, she went away attended by a Servant of the Princes, leaving a Son behind her, and came to Genoa, where she put her self into a Nunnery, and hath since continued.

Now Don Philippo having been Disinherited by his Father, had nothing to Live on but what he had from his Mother, who is very fond of him: Nor is he put into any Place, because they still believe him to be a Christian, there

being none great nor small in Tunis, but knew him by the name of Don Philippo; for my part the first time I went to his House when I was at Tunis, having asked for the House of Don Philippo, every body told me the way to it.

Now to dispossess them of the belief they have that he is still a Christian at Heart, he resolved some years after his return, to undertake the Pilgrimage of Mecha, and so wheadled a Brother of his own, that he engaged him in the Journey, who bore Don Philippo's Charges and his Sons, whom he took with him. So soon as he came to Caire, he made acquaintance with the Franks, and then hired a House in the quarter of the French, where he came two or three times a week to drink Wine and make merry with the Franks; and the time being come that the Caravan parts for Mecha, he travelled thither in company of the Megrebins, and upon his return, the occasion of this English Ship presenting, he resolved to return by Sea to Tunis.

This Prince is a tall and handsome well shaped Man, and was not then above thirty years of Age, he has a great deal of wit, and speaks Italian and Spanish naturally well. He is a lover of Musick, and therefore has several Slaves, who played some on the Harp, others on the Flute and Lute. His Son was then a little Boy about seven years old, handsome and witty, like his Father.

This same Don Philippo for all he is so poor, makes his Brothers so stand in fear of him, that there is none of them dares to look him in the Face.

CHAP. LXXXIV. Our Voyage from Caire to Alexandria. What the Hhouames are.

FRiday the third of January, 1659. I parted from Caire, and embarking at the Gissiere, which is a pleasant place, upon the side of the Nile. where many go to divert themselves, and where our Boat stayed for us, with a fair wind we sailed as far as Tono, which is half way from Caire to Rossetto: Some hours after we parted from Caire, we met the Boat of Don Philippo, which we Saluted with some Volleys of our Fowling-pieces: We arrived at Tono Saturday the fourth of January after Midnight;* 1.572 but there the Wind turned contrary, which put us to a great deal of trouble, and a main Rope of our Tackle breaking, we had almost been cast away Boat and all, but having quickly recovered it out of the Water, and re-fitted it with all haste, we continued our course, making still a little way, though the wind was full against us; at length perceiving that the Wind was like to continue so, we put a-shoar at Derout Tuesday morning the seventh of January, and went by Land to Rossetto, six hours Journey distant from Derout;* 1.573 we arrived the same day, Tuesday the seventh of January, at Rossetto.

Upon the way from Caire to Rossetto there are some pretty Towns, which I had not observed as I went from Rossetto to Caire, as Foa, Sewdion, Derout,* 1.574 and some others. We stayed for our Boat wherein our luggage was at Rossetto, where it arrived on Wednesday morning the eighth of January, and Thursday the ninth, we parted from Rossetto, about two a Clock in the Morning.

Betwixt Rossetto and the Sea-side, there are eleven Pillars fixed in the Ground, and a Palm-Tree, at some hundreds of Paces distant one from ano∣ther; they are put there to mark the way, because it is a Desart, and besides, the ways most commonly are covered with Rain-water; and if a Man should miss his way in that Desart, it would take him above a day to find it again. We followed then these marks by Moon-light, and being got to the Sea-side,

came to Casa Rossa,* 1.575 which is half way betwixt Rossetto and Media, where we arrived about three hours after day. Media is above half way from Rossetto to Alexandria.

Having rested there about an hour, we crossed over in the Ferry-boat, pay∣ing a Maidin for our House-room and passage; and after we had travelled a good way, about two a clock in the Afternoon we came to Alexandria, twelve hours Journey distant from Rossetto, betwixt which two Towns there is no other Inn but Media, where you have nothing but Water and House∣room, so that what you eat and drink, you must carry with you.

From Caire to Alexandria it is about an hundred and fifty miles by Land, which is commonly travelled in three days, because they travel day and night, resting a little in the Morning and Afternoon. I saw nothing in Alexandria but what I had seen the time before, when I was there, only they shewed me a Hhouame,* 1.576 and told me that these Hhouames are a sort of Vagabond People among the Arabs, who lodge as they do, under Tents, but have a certain particular Law to themselves; for every night they perform their Prayers and Ceremonies under a Tent without any Light, and then lye with the first they meet, whether it be Father, Mother, Sister or Brother; and this is far worse than the Religion of the Adamites. These People though, sculk and keep pri∣vate in the City, for if they be known to be Hhouames, they are Burned Alive.

CHAP. LXXXV. Our arrival at Bouquer; a Ship cast away in the Port of Alexandria. A description of Bou∣quer.

I Stayed at Alexandria till the Ship was ready, whereof the Purser having given us notice, we sent away our Goods and Provisions, which we had prepared before hand, for one must not delay those preparations till the Ship be just ready to sail. When a man is alone it is no bad way to agree with the Captain for Diet, especially with the English, who treat well, but besides that, one must still have some small provision for himself in private. For our parts being five in company, to wit, three Marseillese, my self and my man, we provided all things for ourselves.

We took Boat then on Thursday the thirtieth of January, to go on board the Ship, which was at Bouquer, (but not before we and our Goods had been searched at the Custome-house) where we were encompassed with an Army of Rogues that begged something of us, and to say the truth, it is no easie matter, for a Stranger to Embark there, for there are so many of these Ras∣cals to whom some Maidins must be given, that one is quite Stunned with them. At length being in the Boat, we went to the Block-house to give in our Cockets, to shew that all our Goods had been searched at the Custome-house; and there it behoved us also to pay three Maidins a piece; but those that are at Bouquer, cannot be searched, for they are without the reach of Cannon shot.

From the Farillon or Block-house, we went streight to Bouquer, where we arrived about six a Clock at Night, but it blew so hard, that we durst not go a board the Ship; so that we put a-shoar and lodged in a Coffee-House, keeping our Boat with us, for there was none to be found there, and that was the reason we came by Sea, and not over Land, knowing very well that we should find no Boats there; besides it is more convenient and cheaper

to go by Sea, than over Land, when one has any quantity of Goods. We staid then some days a-shoar, waiting for a fair wind to carry us on Board; during which time, I observed that place as well as I could, though it signified no great matter.

Bouquer is a Castle built upon a point of land,* 1.577 that runs out a little into the Sea. It is square, having on each corner a little Tower, mounted with some small Guns, a Dungeon or great Tower in the middle, with a light House on the top of it, and a Mosque. The Castle is like an Island, there being a gut of Sea-water two steps over, betwixt it and the main Land, to which it is joined by a wooden Bridge, that joins to one of Stone; it is beside encompassed all round with Rocks, but they have no other water, but what they fetch from a Well at a pretty distance from the Castle. Heretofore there was an Aqueduct that brought water from a Fountain, at the old port of Alexandria, to this Castle; and this Aqueduct is still to be seen.

The Castle has in it a great many Soldiers, commanded by a Muteferaca, but it does not seem to be well provided of Cannon; for while I was at Caire, Papachin a famous Corsair, came with Spanish Colours and took both an English and a French Ship, that had put themselves under the protection of its shot, the Castle firing only two Guns; but the Aga was made Mansoul for it. It has some Guns however, and two among the rest, whereof the one has the Arms of France, and the other of Marseilles; the Turks, (who are very bad Historians) say that they are as old as St. Louis, who left them at Monsour near to Damiette.

There is about a score of Houses near to this Castle, and a little farther off, as many more; but the French are not suffered to water at Bouquer. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, there blew so violent a North wind, that on Friday night or Saturday Morning a Dutch Ship, called the Soldatero, was cast away in the port of Alexandria: The evening before, that disaster hap∣pened, the Aga of the Block-house, sent word to the Captain of that Ship, that he should have a care of himself, that he thought his Ship made too much travel, and that he had best put out another Anchor, but he slighting the advice, and his Cables firing in the night-time, the ship struck against the Rocks, with so much Violence, that she broke into small bits no bigger than ones hand, (as Don Philippo who saw it told me) and eight Men Per∣ished.

The same night, a Ship of Messina which arrived at Bouquer two days before, broke her Cables, and having quickly got under Sail, to save her self, was forced in by the Storm, near to Madia, not without danger of being wracked there, for it is almost at the Mouth of the Nile, where there is no Water for a Vessel of any Burthen. Our ship had also some share in the danger, occasioned by that Storm, for she lost two Cables, and saved only one that held out; The chief Mate also going in the Evening to the head, to see if it was not like to Fire, was thrown over Board, but five and twenty or thirty Ropes being immediately thrown out to him, he caught hold of some of them, and so was pulled in. The Captain would have reckoned his Ship as good as lost, if that Mate had been cast away, for he confided much in him, and indeed, he was a skilful Sea-man. In short, if that Cable had given as the other two did, the Ship must unavoidably have been lost, for they had not one good Cable more, having lain three or four Months at an Anchor.

CHAP. LXXXVI. Our departure from Bouquer, and our getting on Board the Ship.

MOnday the third of February, the Wind flackening a little, (though it blew still a strong gale from West) we went into our boat and put out from Bouquer about eight a Clock in the Morning: In a good hours time we came to the Ship, and immediately after Don Philippo came. This ship carryed thirty Guns, of which the greatest eighteen pound Ball, the smaller twelve Pounders, except two little Brass pieces in the Cuddie, which carried but five pounders a piece.

There were two of these Guns in the steerage, which were charged with Bunches of Grapes, that is to say, clusters of little leaden Bullets, split in the middle, that yet stick all together, but when they are shot, scatter into so many pieces: In this place there were two port-holes to run out the Guns, if the ship were attacked, and came to a close Fight: so that there being two also in the Fore-castle, and two more in the Cuddie, charged in the fame manner, they would so scower the Deck fore and aft, that I believe if two hundred men should have come on Board, they would all have had their share.* 1.578 These Guns in the Streights are called Scopa Coperta, that is to say, a covered Broom, and when they fire them, they ring a little Bell, that those of the ships company who are at the other end of the ship, may fall flat on their Bellies, and receive no hurt.

Our ship had sixty four men a board, she was very great, had fair large Cabins, and two Decks. In the lower Deck they had a very convenient Pump; it is an Iron-Chain in form of a Chaplet, that reaches down to the Sink, having little pieces of Leather about half as long as ones hand, and some∣what hollow, and fastened to it at every half foots distance; this is turned by two Handles, one on each side, and it is incredible how much water it will raise; insomuch, that if a ship were full, she might be emptied by such a Pump in two hours time. So soon as we were come on Board, we hired every one of us a Cabin to lye in; for my part I hired one for six Crowns upon the Deck in the Ships Wast. These Cabins are like presses made along the ship side: I put my quilt into mine, and crept into it by a little hole, but being within, I neither felt cold nor the tossing of the Vessel, for I was in the middle of the Ships length. There were so many such Cabins in this Ship, that not only the Officers, but all the Sea-men likewise, had every one his Cabin; some also lay in Hammocks, made fast to the Deck above, which is very commodious, for let the Ship toss never so much, it is not to be felt in these Hammocks which hang always perpendicular. The English are very good Sea-men, and observe excellent order on board their Ships, not dismayed at all at bad Weather, and so exact in keeping account of the ships way every day, that during all our Voyage, I never knew them six miles out in their reckoning. They measure the Ships way with a Log or little flat and very thin piece of Wood tied to a line, and when they throw it into the Sea, they turn a half minute Sand-Glass, (there being an hundred and twenty of them in an hour) and then drop the Log from the Stern, letting the line run off, till the Glass be out; then they pull in the line and reckon how much of it hath been in the water, every seven fathom of the line making a mile in an hour; this they did every time the Wind encreased or abated, never grudging their labour, and the four Mates were always present when they heaved the Log, who after it was done, went to their several Cabins, and set down how much the ship had run, for every one of them keeps a Journal. This is very useful to know how far the ship is from Land, and to prevent running a-shoar in the Night-time; in

short, the English are very expert in that. That which only displeased me in this Voyage, was the great number of Candles, that were lighted in the Night time betwixt Decks, and in the Cabins, for there were above thirty Barbary Men on board who had been at Mecha, and were returning into their own Country; all these Men lay upon the lower Gun-Deck, (there being a rank of Beds on each side, and a passage in the middle betwixt them) and had all their lighted Lamps stuck to the Deck, and burning in the Night-time, which made me always extremely afraid the Ship might be set on fire; and besides that, since the least glipse of light, is in the Night-time seen a great way off at Sea, I was apprehensive it might have directed some Corsair, or some Ship of the Venetian Fleet towards us: For I had smarted already, and knew very well what Blades they were, nay more, I fancied that they were not careful enough in smoaking their Tobacco. However they told me still, that there was no danger in what I feared.

CHAP. LXXXVII. Our Ships sailing from Bouquer.

TƲesday the fourth of February, the Purser who was still at Alexandria, came on board with some Provisions, and then having taken in our Boats, we set sail from Bouquer. Wednesday the fifth of February, we steered our course North, with an easie West-wind; it was a calm in the Evening, but in the Night it blew hard from West, with several storms of Rain and Wind, which lasted till next day at Noon, Thursday the sixth of February: All that while we bore away North-north-west, in the Evening the Wind shifted about to North-west, and lasted till next day the seventh of February, when after Noon the Wind turning North-north-west, we tackt and stood away West-south-west, least the Wind might force us too near the Isle of Rhodes. The night following the Wind slackned, and Saturday the eighth of February, we were becalmed from Morning till Noon, when we had a little Gale from South; then we steered away West-north-west, but the Wind lasted not. After that (to our great trouble) we were becalmed for several days. Saturday-night, or Sunday-morning, the sixteenth of February, there fell a great deal of Rain, which lasted till day, when we were still becalmed, and about eleven a Clock in the Morning, with a breeze of Wind from West-north-west, we stood away South-west, the Wind blowing fresher in the evening until Midnight; du∣ring that time, we tackt and stood away towards the Isle of Candia, and the Night being very dark, we ran so far till we saw a Light close on Head, which the Men could not discern whether it was ashoar, or in a small Pinnace, which in the day-time we saw making for Candia; at length, for fear of stri∣king on Ground, they tackt about again before Midnight, bearing away South-west. Monday the seventeenth of February, after Midnight the Winds so chopt and changed, that we had all sorts of Winds, and about Morning it blew so hard from West-north-west, that we were forced to furl all our Sails, except the Main-sail, and tye the Helm to Midships; this Wind brought with it many storms of Rain, that lasted not long. About one a Clock after Noon it Hailed, which changed the Wind to the North, but seeing it blew harder than it had done in the Morning, we could not carry high Sails, but continued the same Course. If the Wind had not been so violent, we would have steered our Course West-north-west: This Wind lasted till Tuesday the eighteenth of February, when about an hour before day it slackened a little, and then we spread our Fore-sail, the Wind being still too high to carry our Maintop-sail, however we stood away West; the Wind abating a little after,

we spread our Maintop-sail, and shortly after that, the Mizzain and Foretop-sail: After noon the Wind chopt about to North-west, and blew so fresh, that we were forced to furl our Foretop-sail, and steered away West-south-west, till Wednesday Morning, the nineteenth of February, when the Wind changing to North-north-west, we put abroad our Foretop-sail again, and stood away West, and a little after, we spread all our Sails. About two hours after day we made Cape Rasaxarra,* 1.579 in Barbary, and stood in within almost thirty Miles of it; it is a very low Land, then we tackt about again towards the Gozo of Candia. About two hours before night we were becalmed, and about two hours after Night was in, we had the long look'd for East Wind, but it was easie; however with it we steered our course West-north-west until Thursday Morning, the twentieth of February, when after a little Rain that fell, the Wind chopt about to South-south-east, whilst in the mean time we made all sail, and stood away North-north-west; a little after, we turned our Ships-head to West-north-west, running above eight Miles an hour upon a Wind, which we would have continued to do, had we not been afraid to have been embeyed within a bad Gulf,* 1.580 called Hihal, that runs out into the Sea, and therefore we stood away before the Wind, till we had weathered it; all this while the Fore-sail and Sprit-sail did us no service. We ran at a great rate in this man∣ner for the space of three hours, then the Wind turned West, which brought us a Flurry, with a great scud of Rain, for half a quarter of an hour, but the main Wind was easie enough, and with it we bore away North-west; in the evening the Wind freshened a little, and we steered the same Course, till about ten or eleven a Clock at Night, that we tackt and stood away South-west. About midnight we had a sudden gust of Wind, with Hail and Rain, which was so violent, that it laid the Ship on her side, and if she had been a small Vessel, would certainly have overset her; it tore the Main-sail in pieces, and blew so very hard, that the Sea-men could not furl their Sails, but at length all Hands coming aloft, they made a shift to furl them, till the storm was over. They saw the Flurry a coming, and then they should have minded their Sails, so that we needed not to have feared any damage, but through Laziness, they let them alone, saying, that perhaps it might pass over them. In fine, we spent the Carnaval in this manner, dancing more than enough, in spight of our Teeth, and without Musick. When the storm was over, we spread all our Sails, and tackt about again Northwards, with the same West-north-west Wind, until Friday the one and twentieth of February, that the Wind turning South-west, we bore away West-north-west, till after Dinner, that the Wind got into the North-north-west, and we stood away West. This lasted till Saturday, the two and twentieth of February, when we were becalmed, and in the Evening the Wind turned North-west and by west, but an easie Gale, and we steered South-west till Sunday, the three and twentieth of February, that the Wind turned Northerly, but so gently, that it look'd like a Calm, and we steered our course West-north-westward; we were after∣wards becalmed until Evening, when we had an easie North-east Gale, which freshened a little in the Night-time, and in stead of steering away West (which was our Course) we stood away North-north-west, to bear in with the Gulf of Venice, where we hoped to have found a North-wind, that would have carried us streight to Tunis. We kept that Course till Tuesday, the five and twentieth of February, when the Wind blew so hard, that we made nine or ten Miles an hour, always North-west, for fear of being carried to far to the Leeward, and losing the Wind: This Wind lasted all Wednesday, the twenty sixth of February, and Thursday morning, the twenty seventh we made Malta, which we left to the Starboard, running betwixt Tripoly and Malta, leaving Lampedosa and Linosa to the Larboard;* 1.581 Linosa is about seventy Miles distant from Malta. We saw them not, because we passed them in the Night-time. Our Lady of Lampedosa is well known and Reverenced both by Turks and Christians; and though I had not the satisfaction to go ashoar there, yet I will say two or three words of it.

CHAP. LXXXVIII. Of Lampedosa and Pantalaria. Of several Corsairs we met with, and our Arrival before Goletta.

LAmpedosa is a little Isle, or Rock of small Circumference,* 1.582 about an hun∣dred Miles distant from Malta. It is an Island that produces nothing, and is only inhabited by Coneys; but because there is good Water upon it, and a good Harbour, Ships put in there for Fresh-water. In that Isle there is a little Chappel, wherein there is an Image of the Blessed Virgin, which is much Re∣verenced both by Christians and Infidels, that put ashoar there; and every Vessel always leaves some present upon it. Some Money, others Bisket, Oyl, Wine, Gun-powder, Bullets, Swords, Musquets, and in short, all things that can be useful even to little cases; and when any one stands in need of any of these things, he takes it, and leaves Money or somewhat else in place thereof. The Turks observe this practice as well as the Christians, and leave Presents there. As for the Money no body meddles with that, and the Galleys of Malta go thither once a year, and take the Money they find upon the Altar, which they carry to our Lady of Trapano in Sicily. I was told that six Christian Ships having some time since put into that Port, and that when they had watered, the Wind offering fair, they all sailed out of the Port, except one, which having set sail with the rest, could not get out; at which the Master was strangely surprised. However, taking patience, he waited for another more favourable Wind, which offering, he attempted to get out again, but as yet he could not, which seemed very strange to him; and therefore he resolved to make a search in his Ship, whereby he found that one of his Soldiers had stollen something in that place; which being carried back again, he made sail, and got easily out of the Harbour. Many Miracles are wrought in that place, at the inter∣cession of our Blessed Lady, which are not so much as doubted of, neither by Christians nor Turks. We past that Island then, with the same Wind, which lasted till Friday the eight and twentieth of February, when we were becalm∣ed about three a Clock in the morning, the Wind leaving us pretty near Pantalaria.

Pantalaria is a little Island, about twelve or fourteen Miles in Circuit; it is distant from Malta about an hundred and thirty Miles, and is fruitful in Wine, Fruits, and Cotten. It belongs to the King of Spain, who keeps a Spanish Governour in it, that lives in the Castle; which (as the Turks told me) is so strong, that two hundred Galleys could not take it. About two a Clock in the Afternoon, we had a Gale at North-north-east, and we stood away West. About three in the Afternoon, we made two Ships to the Windward, which bore down upon us with full sail; they were got already so near us, that we wondred we had not made them sooner. We made ready to receive them the best way we could, in the short times warning we had. Immediately we launched our two Boats, then cleared the Gun-Deck, of Chests, Hamocks, and of all incumberances, that our Guns might have freedom to play, so that in a trice, the Deck look'd like a great Hall; all the Goods and Baggage were laid aloft on the Poop, and upon the upper Deck, but betwixt the Masts, that they might not hinder the execution of our Guns, Scopa Coperta. The Main∣yard was chained to the Main-mast, all the great Guns loaded, every one took his Musquet and Bandileers, and all with so much expedition, that by that time they were got within Cannon shot of us, we were ready. The headmost Ship put out Red Colours, and then all took them for Spaniards, because we were so near Sicily. For though we perceived the Turkish Colours, yet we knew that Corsairs have all sorts of Colours on board, and put out many times false ones, that they may the more easily surprise. We put out English Colours, which they saluted with a Gun without shot, and we answered the

like. Being come within Musquet shot, we heard their Trumpets sounding French Levets, which made the Turks who were on board of us, take them for Ships of Tunis; being come nearer, they again saluted us without a Bullet, which we did not answer, only furled our Main-sail, to shew them that we resolved to Fight, and not to Run for it. We were then on board in all an hundred and fifty Men, and expected to spend the Night in fighting and not sleeping, for the Sun was set, and we had no Light but from the Moon, which shone out very clear. Our Mate hailed them from the Poop, and demanded who they were? Who having answered, They were Friends. The Mate then called to them,* 1.583 That if so, they should fall to the Leeward; which they did, sailing so near our Stern, that our Turks easily spoke to them. And having asked who they were? They answered, they were Ships of Tunis. An English Renegado, called Solyman Reys, commanded them, and they belonged to the Dey. The biggest and best Sailer of the two Ships, carried thirty six Guns, and the other which was less, five and twenty, having each two hundred Men on board. When they knew that the Prince Don Philippo was on board of us, they saluted him with three Guns, and our Captain ordered the salute to be rendred, but to the Windward, because all our Guns were loaded with Shot, and these Gentlemen were to the Leeward of us, the Gunner fired two Guns to the wind∣ward, but the third missing fire, he ran in all haste to that which was nearest, (without considering what he did) and it happening to be to the Leeward, and they just off and on with us, he fired it, and shot a Bullet into the middle of the biggest Ships side. This put our Captain into a great Passion against the Gunner, who ran away and hid himself: Immediately they came on board of us in their Boat, and complained highly of that Action, demanding him who had fired the Gun, to be delivered unto them; because they said they had a Man killed, and two wounded by the shot. Which we believed to be false: Because one said, one man Killed, and two wounded; another, two Killed; another, two wounded; and another, three. Our Captain told them, That it was an Accident, and that many times Ships upon their entring into a Port, intending to salute the Town, have by Inadvertency, shot Bullets into the place. But they still persisting in their demand, he told them, That if they would needs have him, they should go on board their Ship again, and then come and take him. Which perhaps they might have attempted, had we not had Turks on board, who would have suffered for it. For it was an Article in their Peace, that he that first shot a Bullet, broke the Peace. When they found that there was nothing to be done, they drank a Cup or two, and returned to their Ship, giving us two Letters for Tunis. After that, they bore away Eastward, and we held on our Course till towards Midnight that we tackt about, but then the Wind turning West,* 1.584 we tackt again, standing away North-north-east, and sailed by Cape Bon, and the Castle of Galippa.

Saturday the first of March, we tackt, and leaving the Castle of Galippa to the Leeward, bore away North-west, but the Wind chopping into the North, which blows full from Tunis, we stood away West-north-west, and coming close up with the Castle of Galippa, (which is a small square Castle upon a Hill) we left it to the Leeward, and then tacking again, bore away East-north-east, that we might also weather Cape Bon, and so get where we desired to be. We kept beating in this manner a pretty while, the Current carrying us always off of Cape Bon, and the same day had sower gusts of Wind and Rain.

Sunday Morning the second of March, we made a Corsair near to Pantalaria, whom we waited for without breaking our Course, and so soon as he was come within Masquet shot of us, we halled up our Main sail, he putting out Red Colours, and we the English. Then he came under our Stern, and we infor∣med our selves that a Turk, called Ahmet Reys, commanded the Ship that be∣longed to private Men of Tunis. She was a small Ship, that two years before had been taken by them from a Captain of Marseilles, she carried then four∣teen Guns, and had about two hundred Men on board; having saluted one another each with a Gun, we steered on our several Courses.

Monday Morning the third of March, we had another kind of Allarm, when a Seaman on the Maintop-mast head cried, he saw four Sail, which proved only to be Rocks; that day we began to sail farther upon a Tack, to wit, from

Pantalaria to Sicily, and were got very near to it in the Evening, when we Tackt about and stood back again for Pantalaria. We had so bad Luck, that when the Wind was fair, some Corsair or other, made us lose the occasion of it for doubling the Cape, for then we must make ready to Fight, and by that time they knew us to be Friends, the Wind was gone. Or otherwise, when we were in one place, a Wind offered that would have been very good for us if we had stayed where we were the day before; and when the Wind was good, we had a high Sea on head, as on Tuesday the fourth of March, when with a North-wind, we were got above twenty Miles to the Windward of Cape Bon, but making no way forward, (because of a high Sea we had on head) we found our selves in the Evening to the Leeward of the said Cape, and tacked about for Sicily; from whence standing off again, next day the fifth of March, and with the same North-wind bearing West-north-west, we were got so far to the windward of Cape Bon, that we were in hopes to have weathered it; but a high Sea on Head, the Current and contrary wind drove us so to the Lee∣ward, that being within a League of the said Cape, we could not double it, though we wanted but a little of having done it. We therefore stood off again to∣wards the East-north-east. Friday night and Saturday morning, the seventh of March, we had storms of Rain, and all sorts of Winds, and yet were so for∣tunate, that in the Morning we found our selves forward enough in our Course to have doubled the Cape. The same Morning we had the Wind at North-east, which made us bear away West-north-west, and freshening a little, put us in hopes of doubling the Cape, but half an hour after, it shifted about to the West, and that made us bear away South-west: An hour after, it chopt about to North and by East, and blowing pretty fresh, we made all the Sail we could, standing away West-north-west, and so about two a Clock in the Af∣ternoon, with much joy we doubled Cape Bon, called in Turkish Kara Bouroun,* 1.585 having been eight days beating about it, all the while with West-north-west, and North-winds. Our Mates told us, that they were always a long time in doubling that Cape, and sometimes spent three Weeks about it. About five a Clock in the Evening, we Sailed betwixt the Isle of Zimbre, and an Isle or Rock, that is almost mid-way betwixt the Main-land and Zimbre.* 1.586 Zimbre is Inhabited, has convenient Anchorage by it, and good Water in it. From Zimbre it is but forty Miles to Goletta. Having passed Zimbre, we stood off from Land, intending not to enter Goletta till next day, because of the many Flats that are on that Coast. Friday night and Saturday morning, the eighth of March, we had greater gusts of Wind and Rain, than before; and if we had not doubled the Cape, we must have been a long time still before we could have done it, considering the Weather that happened afterward. During these storms, a Moor on board of us died, who had been ill of a Bloody Flux, almost ever since the beginning of our Voyage, and next morning he was thrown over-board. At length, on Saturday the eighth of March, about seven a Clock in the Morning, we came into the Port, or rather the Road of Goletta, for it is not a Harbour, but a Road that lies open to the South east Wind; and in all Barbary, there are but two good Ports, to wit, Porto Farina,* 1.587 and Porto Stera. The Harbour for the Galleys of Tunis, is Biserta, a little Town threescore Miles from Tunis. Biserta was formerly called Ʋtica; and here it was that Cato killed himself, wherefore he was called Cato Ʋticensis. We came to an Anchor near a Point of Land where the Sepulchre of Dido is,* 1.588 and a Marabout or Sheick is Interred there. So soon as we had dropt Anchor, Don Philippo sent ashoar one of his Men, who having informed a poor Moor whom he met, that Don Philippo was arrived, the poor Man ran with all the speed he could to the Town, to carry the news to Don Philippo's Mother, who was over∣joyed thereat, and gave him twenty Crowns for a Reward; he was no more expected at Tunis, and it was thought he was gone back again into Christendom, having been absent almost two Years. Sunday the ninth of March, we went ashoar, and when Don Philippo left the Ship, they fired fifteen Guns. He found several Men on Horse-back, and amongst them all his Brothers, who were come out to receive him.

CHAP. LXXXIX. Of Goletta, and our Arrival at Tunis.

* 1.589GOletta is no more but two Castles, whereof the one was built by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and the other by Ahmet Dey the Father of Don Philippo, who perceiving that the Galleys of Malta came and took ships in the Road, without any damage from the Guns of the Castle, built this last, which is very low, and has seven or eight great Gun-holes two foot above the Water, by which the Guns play level with the surface of it. This Castle is round on the side next the Sea, and that of Charles the fifth is almost square; Between these two Castles there are three Houses, one belonging to the Family of Don Philippo, the other to the Bey, and the other to Schelebi the Son of Hisouf Dey, who is called barely Schelebi, because he was Born during the time his Father Reigned.

When we had refreshed our selves a little in the House of Don Philippo, we took Boat and went to Tunis, by the Canal or rather Lake, which in the begin∣ning is very narrow, there being many Canes fixed all round in the bottom of the Water, for catching of Fish, afterwards it grows very wide. It is not commonly above five span deep in Water, then it was very shallow, and had many dry places in it, which with the least Wind are quickly covered, and that very high with Water.

Don Philippo went by Land with his company mounted on a stately Horse that was brought him. The first thing we saw upon that Water, was a Hill to the left hand very near the Sea-side, where there are natural Baths of Water almost boyling hot: There is a Bagnio built there, and it is called Hamarmulf;* 1.590 then a little further on upon the same side, they shewed us a high Hill called Zagouam, which is a great way from this Lake, and a days Jour∣ney distant from Tunis, there there is a little Town of Tagarins, or Andala∣ous, called also Zagouam.

When the Christians possessed that Countrey, there were Aqueducts that brought Water from thence to the City of Carthage; at present they are broken, but some Arches with the Fountains and Cisterns still remain to be seen. As we came near to Tunis, we saw a great many Olive-Trees, and abundance of other Trees, which denote a good Countrey. In four hours time we arrived at Tunis, though with a little wind they go it many times in two hours, but we were many times imbayed.

By Land it is eighteen miles from Goletta to Tunis. If they pleased, they might make a good Port at Tunis, but then the Town would not be so strong, or at least not so secure. From the place where you Land, it is a mile still to the Town, where being arrived, we went to lodge at the House of Monsieur Le Vacher, a Perisian Priest, and Father of the Mission, who was then Consul for the French, and he received us very Affectionately.

CHAP. XC. Of the Countrey-Houses and other places that are to be seen about Tunis.

TWO days after our arrival, Don Philippo sent for us to shew us a Coun∣trey-House he had half a League from the Town. The Countrey about Tunis is full of these Countrey Houses, which are built like the Bastides about Marseilles. Don Philippo's is very pretty, it is built in form of a square Tower, and higher than any about it; from the Hall to the top of the Tower, there are an hundred and eleven steps up, and from thence there is an excellent Prospect, which discovers on all hands a lovely Plain reaching out of sight, full of Olive-Trees. In it there is a great Hall open above with covered Galleries round it, which have the Roof supported by several Pillars. In the middle of this open place, there is a great reservatory of Water, which serves for several Water-works. All this place is adorned with Marble, as also all the Halls and Chambers, which are beautified with Gold and Azure, and very pleasant Plaister-work, there being Fountains every where, that play when one pleases. One should also see the Bardes, which are three Houses built by the Bey for his three Sons, a League from Tunis. This Bey is as it were the Basha's Farmer, to whom he gives so much of the Revenue due to the Grand Signior in the Countrey, which he gathers, and the rest he keeps to himself. He was not at that time Bey, but Basha, and his eldest Son was Bey. In these Houses there are a great many Fountains with lovely Basons of one entire piece of Marble, brought from Genoa; and as in the House of Don Philippo, an open Hall, with a great reservatory in the mid∣dle, and walks all round it, roofed over, and supported by several Pillars; this, as also all the Rooms, are paved with black and white Marble, adorned with Gold and Azure, and that kind of Clay or Plaister-work. There are several fair appartments in all these Houses, which have lovely Gardens full of Orange and several other Fruit-Trees, planted in as good order as in Christendom, with many neat Beds and borders of Flowers at the ends of Walks, all made by Christian slaves. These Houses are called Bardes, from the Moresco word Berd, that signifies Cold, because there is a fresh Air about them. Near that place, there is an Aqueduct built by a Dey, which brings Water four or five miles off to Tunis. A few steps from that, there is ano∣ther Aqueduct somewhat older, yet still modern, which is parallel to the former, and carries Water also to Tunis. Another day I went to see the Cantre, which belongs to Schelebi, whom I mentioned,* 1.591 the Son of Hisouf Dey, and is four leagues from Tunis. As you go thither, you pass by the old Aqueducts of Carthage, which are about half way; they are at that place very entire still, raised high, and built of very great stones. From Tunis to the Cantre most of the way is over large Fields planted with Olive-Trees, some steps distant from one another, but in so streight a line, that they look like Walks, which would be very pleasant, were it not that these ways are always full of Rain-water and mire, as all the Countrey about Tunis is, because it lyes upon a level. We came then to the Cantre, so called from a Bridge, which Hisouf Dey, the Father of Schelebi, built over a River called Magerda,* 1.592 for Cantre in Moresco signifies Bridge. This River Magerda is neither very broad nor rapid, but enough to deserve the name of a fair River; it runs near to the House of Schelebi, and his Father built a stone Bridge to cross over it, the spaces betwixt the Pillars of the seven Arches, being built up from the bottom to the surface of the Water, with huge pieces of Free-stone; so that the water passing through the Arches, and finding it lower on the other side, makes at every arch a very pleasant Cascade two foot high, where the Water falls with a great noise. Upon that River there are several Iron-Mills,

as also for grinding Corn, and fulling the Caps called Fez-Caps, which are made at Zagouaro by Tagarins. All that work in these Mills are the slaves of Schelebi. At the end of the Bridge is the House of Schelebi, built in form of a Castle; it hath one very large Court and other smaller ones; the Rooms (as in other Houses) are beautified with Gold, Azure, and Plaistering, with Fountains every where, and all paved with Marble; so that they are more magnificent than those I had seen before. There are lovely Pictures in those Rooms, for formerly this Schelebi was very rich, his Father having left him a vast Estate, and among other things eighteen hundred Slaves, but he hath run out a great deal in his Debaucheries; he is a man of a generous Heart, and if he were once in Christendom, he would never leave it again. He keeps open table for all Franks that come to see his House, and is so cour∣teous, that he never refuses any thing, and if he have not what is asked from him, he uses means to procure it at any rate, that he may freely give it. When I went to his House, he was not there, for he was then at Tabarque, a little Island in the Kingdom of Tunis, within a Musquet shot of the main Land, but three days Journey from Tunis. That Island belongs to the Genoese, who have a very good Fort, and drive a great trade there, and among other things, in Horses, which are called Barbes. The Schelebi was gone thither to buy Timber for building of a Galley. About three Leagues from the Cantre, there is a place called Tabourbe, where there are some ancient ruines, and chiefly an ancient Temple, but I went not to see it, because then I must have lain there, or at the Cantre, and I had not time to spare, for our Captain put us in hopes daily that he would sail next day. That was the reason also that I went not to Suze neither, which is a long days journey from Tunis, it is the place where there are more Antiquities than any where else in the Kingdom of Tunis, and I believe that thereabouts there are ruines of Churches and other things, relating to St, Augustin, to be seen.

CHAP. LXXXXI. Of Tunis, and of the Slaves that are there.

TƲNIS the Capital City of the Kingdom, of the same name, lyes in a Plain; it is pretty big, and the Houses are indifferently well built, though they make no shew, but they are all Marble, Gold and Azure within. The Suburbs of this City are as big as the City itself, which is all paved, but dirty as heretofore Paris was, so that after rain, there is hardly any going in the Streets. There is a Castle upon an Eminence within the Town, which commands it, and it makes a very pretty shew: There are some Guns before the Gate, and the front of it looks well, which is all that I could see of it, nor indeed durst I eye it attentively; for I had warning given me, that it was dangerous for Christians to be curious in viewing that Castle. I past by it then, but very fast, and hard by over against it there is a Burying-place. Not far frem the Castle there is Bazar for Drapers; it is a long broad street with shops on both sides, all which have the fore part supported by four Pillars, two on each side; none but Drapers keep shop there; but there are several other Bazars also for other Commodities.

* 1.593There are thirteen Baths in Tunis, where all the Slaveslodge, except those that are kept in their Masters Houses, and (as several Slaves told me) there may be there in all ten or twelve thousand Christian Slaves, who carry every one a great ring of Iron at their foot,* 1.594 but the Knights of Malta have besides that a huge Iron-Chain above five and twenty pound weight, which is fastened to the Ring, that Chain is very troublesome to them, for they must either turn it quite round their Leg and make it fast there, which is

very heavy when they walk, or hang it by a hook that they have by their side, which commonly gives them a pain in the side, or else must carry it on their Shoulders. In these Baths there is a great Hall where they are shut up in the Night-time, there they lodge as well as they can, some having little Rooms made of wood, to which they go up by Ladders, and are stowed three or four together in one, the rest lye upon the Ground, but all horridly bad, for being very numerous, and lock'd in in the Night-time, they do their needs where they are in Pots, which raises a noysome stench; besides when one has a mind to sleep, some fall a talking, and others a quarelling and fighting, making constantly a hideous din, which seems to me a Hell upon Earth.

In the morning this Prison is opened, and those that are to work, are let out, who are conducted to their Labour by men that take care of it; they are employed in building and other works of that nature; and I have known Knights of Malta of noble Families there, who have been made serve as Labourers, some carrying Sand and others Stone, and they were thus used to oblige them to ransom themselves the sooner, and at the higher rate. They who can get any thing by their own industry, pay so much a day to their Master, and so are not forced to work. Many of them keep taverns, and these live the best of all, for they get money, and work not, but yet they must give their Master part of their Profit. None but slaves sell Wine at Tunis, it is all white, and grows in great plenty in the Countrey about, but they put Lime to it to make it intoxicate. They sell their Wine cheap, and it is the custome, that if you go to a Tavern and call for a quart of Wine, they will set Bread before you, and three or four dishes of Meat or Fish, with Sallads and other appurtenances, and when you are to go, you only pay for the Wine, and at a reasonable rate too; besides, these Slaves have power to beat the Turks if they are rude and insolent in their Taverns, and to pull of their Turban and keep it till they have payed their reckoning, if they refuse to do it.

The Slaves who neither work nor gain any thing, cannot step out of the Bath, without leave from the Keeper thereof who gives them a man to wait on them, to whom they ought (at least) to give three pence for his pains, and he is to answer for them. Our Knights were of the Number of those last, for having written to Malta that they were forced to work, the Turks that were slave at Malta were severely Bastonadoed, who immediately wrote to Tunis, that if they continued to make the slaves of Malta work at Tunis, they would be Cudgeled to death in Malta, and since that time, they are no more put to work.

CHAP. LXXXXII. Of the Dey and other Officers of Tunis.

MƲstafa who was Dey in the year 1657. was the sixth Dey: Before they had Deys, the Basha commanded in name of the Grand Signior, and lived in the Castle, but has been turned out ever since the Moors made an Insurrection, and made one Osman their first Dey. This Dey is almost absolute,* 1.595 Coins money, (which consists in little square pieces of Silver of the value of Maidins) and obeys the Grand Signior no farther than he thinks fit, nay, and sometimes puts to death those whom the Grand Signior sends, if the business they come about displease him, as it happened to a Chiaoux sent from the Grand Signior, a little before I was there: And indeed, when the Ambassadours of the Franks complain to the Grand Signior of the Corsairs of Barbary, all the answer they have is, that they must make reprisal upon them, and that they are Subjects whom the Grand Signior cannot command. At present the

Basha of the Grand Signior is so much a slave there,* 1.596 that he cannot stir abroad out of his House, without leave from the Dey, of whom he must send to ask it every time he goes out, which costs him besides above an hundred Piastres, that he must give to the Deys Guards, and that is the reason he goes seldom abroad. They have a Bey there also, made by the Grand Signior; his business is to go into the Countrey, and gather the Caradge and other the Grand Signiors Dues, which he pays in to the Basha, who sends it to Constantinople; but this Bey has a part in it himself, gives part to the Dey, and the rest to the Basha.

When a Dey dies, his Children conceal his Death, least another Dey should be chose against their will, and in the morning every one coming (as the custome is) to wish the Dey a good day; his eldest Son tells them how his Father before his Death,* 1.597 declared to him such a one for his Successour, who is commonly his Kiaya, or some other Friend of theirs, for they make a compact with him whom they would have to be Dey, before they make any Declaration; then his friends joyn with him, and immediately the Imam going up to the top of the Minaret of the Mosque in the Castle, publishes the death of the Dey; he never goes up thither but at the usual hours, un∣less it be at the death of a Dey; and therefore whenever he is seen there at an unusual hour, it is known that the Dey is dead, and then a man speeds through the City on Horse-back, crying God save Dey such a one, and all shut up shop, and stand to their Arms, until the Forts be put into the hands of the Officers of the new Dey, for fear some other in the mean time should usurp the Dey-ship.

When it is generally known who is Dey, all the Cadys and others, who stand in need of his favour, bring him Presents, (but in the Night-time) and in great Dishes covered with Fruit or Meat, under which there may be five, six, seven or eight Purses; so that the first night he receives above two hundred Purses in Presents. They bring them in the night-time, that they may not be perceived, least it should be said, that he was corrupted by Bribes; and if they were brought to him by day, he would refuse them, and fall into a great Passion against him that should offer to bring him a present; they come then in the Night-time, and only kiss his Vest, having one or more Servants carrying dishes of Fruit or Meat, with the present at the bottom, and as they kiss his Vest, they whisper to him, what they have brought in these Dishes. After all, the Dey keeps no great Court, nor carrys it out with any great Majesty, but shews himself familiar enough with every Body; I saw him once as he was coming back from a Mosque in the City, he walked on foot, was cloathed in a scarlet Justacors lined with Samour, and had but a small Retinue The Dey cannot procure that his Son should succeed him after his Death; having asked Don Philippo the reason of that, he told me, it was because when Young-men find themselves all of a sudden advanc'd to so great power, they fall into such debauched courses, that they render themselves insupportable to all People, forcing all the Women and Boys they meet with; so that if a Dey would have his Son to succeed him, he must get him made Dey in his own Life-time.* 1.598 They have at Tunis also an Aga of the Customes, who has a vast Revenue, and is a man of great Authority.

The Moors of Barbary are not altogether Apparrelled like the Turks, for instead of a Doliman and a Vest, they wear a Wastecoat, which they call Gillet, and over it a Justacors, which reaches down to the knee, girt about with a large Girdle; on their head they wear a Fez-cap shaped like a Bell, and a thick Turban round it. They are all Apparrelled after this manner, except some Officers: as for instance, there are six Chiaoux's of Justice, who wear a sharp pointed Cap with a Turban about it, and a kind of Hanging-sleeve that is interlaced with it behind their back; the Oda Bashas go much after the same manner, but there is this difference, that their Hanging-sleeve ends as it were in a pair of Horns. They have no Janizaries, but men of pay, and generally all Renegadoes; so that Italian is very commonly spoken at Tunis, and if a Christian would say any thing that he would not have known, he should not speak French neither, for he might easily be understood, and pay dear for it.

CHAP. LXXXXIII. Of the Punishments which are in Ʋse at Tunis.

THE Punishments used at Tunis, differ according to the quality of the Per∣sons. When a Turk in pay deserves Death, he is Executed in a Cham∣ber, and not Publickly. They make him sit down in a Chair, and two Chri∣stian Slaves pulling each an end of a Cord, that is put about his Neck, quickly strangle him. The Turks of mean condition, or Moors, are Hanged upon the outside of the Walls; they set them upon the Wall, put about their Neck a Halter, made fast in a hole purposely made in the Wall, and then pushing them down, they are also soon dispatched. As for Maids or Women, that have deserved Death, they choak them in the Oaze by the Sea-side, putting their Head into it, and a Man setting his Foot upon their Neck. They have other very cruel Punishments for the Renegadoes, that turn Christians again: They wrap them up in Pitched Cloth, put a Cap of the same upon their Head, and then make a Fire round them. Or otherwise they put them to a crueller Death: For they wall them up so, that there is nothing but their Head with∣out the Wall, and having rubbed over their Head and Face with Honey, leave them so exposed for three days, and as many nights, to the discretion of the Flies, which pain them to Death within less time. The Slaves are punished with Bastonadoes, or they cut off their Ears or Nose, according to the qua∣lity of the Offence. But if a Slave kill his Master, or any other Turk, they break his Legs and Arms, then tie him to a Horses Tail, and after they have dragged him so about the Town, strangle him, giving the Body to the Franks to be Buried; but most commonly the Boys take him from the Executioner, (as they did a French Man a little before I came to Tunis) for there are no wickeder Boys in the World, than in that Town. They snatcht that dead Body out of the Executioners hands, in spight of the Mezoar,* 1.599 who is the Officer whom in Turky they call the Sous-basha) and having dragged him about for some time longer; they Roasted him a little with Straw, which they kindled under him, and then threw him into the Ditch, out of which the French afterwards took him, and buried him in their Burying Place, called St. Anthony; for the English have one by themselves. When I was at Tunis, the Franks lived severally, in the Houses which they Hired; but they were a Build∣ing a pretty commodious Oquele, where they must all Lodge with their Con∣suls, as in other places of the Levant.

CHAP. LXXXXIV. Our Departure from Goletta, and the Conti∣nuation of our Voyage.

AT length our Captain having done all his Business, and the Wind offer∣ing fair, it was time for us to leave Tunis. We parted from thence on Wednesday, the six and twentieth of March,* 1.600 about eleven a Clock in the Morn∣ing, and went by Land on Horse-back, that we might see somewhat of Car∣thage. We went close by the Ruines of it, which are above three Leagues from Tunis, and there saw the remains of stately Aqueducts, which conveyed

water from Zagouan to Carthage, many of the Arches whereof are still stand∣in the Road to the Cantre, as we said before. The Ruines of Carthage signifie but little, being only heaps of Stones, and some places under Ground, where there are great Cisterns; nay, from these Ruines they daily carry away Marble and other Stones, for their Buildings in Tunis, and the Country Houses about. We came to the Sea-side, about three a Clock in the Afternoon, and being got on board, we stayed still there all that day, because our Captain had some Business to do with him that Commanded at Goletta, concerning the dues that he is to have from every Ship. Next morning, Thursday the seven and twentieth of March, we set sail with a good South-east Wind, steering away North-north-west; but about Noon the Wind slackened a little, and the night fol∣lowing it turned Northerly, which made us put back again to the Road of Goletta, where we arrived on Friday the twenty eighth of March, about ten a Clock in the morning.

Saturday the nine and twentieth of March, the Wind veered about to North-east, and the night following we had all sorts of Winds: At length, Sunday the thirtieth of March, we had a gentle Gale from South-west, and an hour after day we set sail, steering our course North, but about ten a Clock we were becalmed, and about Noon it blew a breez from North, which within an hour after changed to North-east, and an hour after that to East; so that we still kept on our Course. Two hours within Night, the Wind turned South-south-west, and we stood away North-north-east.

Monday morning, the one and thirtieth of March, we were becalmed, and continued so till Tuesday, the first of April, when about ten a Clock in the Morning, we had a small Gale from North-west, and we steered away West, towards Sardinia. In the Evening, two hours after Sun-set, the Wind turned Easterly, and we stood our Course again North-north-east; in the night-time we had a calm, which lasted all next day, Wednesday the second of April: However, it always blew a little breez, sometimes one way, sometimes ano∣ther, though the Sea was still smooth and calm. In the Evening, from the Maintop head, we made a Sail off of Sardinia, which followed its Course, as we did ours Northward, with a gentle Gale from East. We were becalmed in the night-time, and continued so till next day, the third of April, when about nine in the morning, it blew a breez from South-west, which within half an hour after, changed into a stronger Gale from East; and we continued our course Northwards. We had a calm again about Noon, which lasted till next day, Friday the fourth of April, when about eight a Clock in the morning, it blew a gentle South-east Gale, which about Noon turned full South, and about three or four a Clock next morning, it blew a good fresh Gale from West; half an hour after, we discovered a Polaque a-stern, and close up with us, which made very quick way. We called to him Alarga, and turned all out and stood to our Arms. At length he sailed by to the Windward, within a Pistol shot of us, which our Captain observing commanded a Broadside to be fired at him, but the chief Mate dissuaded him, telling him that if he was a Corsair, his Con∣sorts (who probably could not be far off) would hear the noise of the Guns, and so come up with us; in the mean time, he made very great way. Here∣upon various Judgments past: Some said they were Spaniards, who would have surprised us. Others, that it was one of the Polaques, that Trade betwixt Le∣gorn and Sardinia for Cheese, and such like Commodities, and carrying but three or four Men, they might have been asleep, and so did not see our Ship. But most part thought it was a Prize taken by the Barbary-men, which they sent into Barbary; seeing when they passed by us, they called Cbaban, who was Reys of a Tunis Man of War then out at Sea, taking our Ship (perhaps) for Chaban Reys his Ship. About three a Clock in the morning, we passed Sardinia, and all that we could see of the Land, for two days space that we sailed along the Goast of it, were only very high Mountains. And now we were got into the entry of the streight that is betwixt Sardinia and Corsica; there the wind blew so fresh, that we made above seven Miles an hour, which was a great deal for such a heavy Ship as ours. We kept our Course still Northward, and about ten a Clock in the Morning made Monte Christo, a little after Elba, and on the other side Corsica, and then we steered North-north-west About eleven a Clock in

the Forenoon, the Wind changed to South-west, and blew pretty hard, and about that time we made a Sail, which strove to get the Wind of us; about Noon he was got to the Windward, and being within Cannon shot, put out English Colours, and we did the like; but he still bearing down upon us, we halled up our Main-sail, and waited for him. When he was come up with us, our Men knew it to be a Flemish Pinck, commanded by an English-man, who had bought it. He told us that he came from Legorn, and was bound for Tunis, that the Palaque we met was a Prize, taken by a Caraveue, and Bark of Tunis, that were Consorts; that he had met with them, but that he had seen no Spanish Ship, which much rejoyced us. After that, he drank our Captains health, and fired a Gun, which our Captain having answered, he went his way, and we followed our Course. The Wind slackened much in the Afternoon, and about five a Clock in the Evening, we made two Sail near the Land of Corsica, which strove for the Wind of us. We thought they had been the two Barbary men they told us of, however we stood upon our Guard. About six a Clock at night, we were almost becalmed, and we discovered Fires a-shoar in Corsica, which (as I think) they made because of those two Corsairs. About seven a Clock the Wind turned Easterly, and we held on our course North-north-west, leaving Monte Christo a-stern of us. About nine a Clock, the head-most of the two Corsairs, sailed by a pretty way to the Windward of us, and continued his Course. I believe they were afraid of us; however we were all night upon our Guard. We were then becalmed till next day, Sunday the sixth of April, when about five a Clock in the morning, an easie Gale be∣gan to blow from East, which by little and little freshened, and we stood away North-north-east. About six a Clock in the morning, we made a Sail coming upon us afore the Wind, and we kept on our Course to meet him; when he was come within a League, or thereabouts of us, he put out White Colours, and we look'd upon that to be but a Trick of a Spanish Corsair: In short, we shew'd the English Colours, and he continued following us, till eight a Clock in the morning, when he Tackt about, and stood away the way that we came. Perhaps he was afraid, when he saw our Guns out, and that we did not run for it. Some thought that it was one of the two Corsairs, whom we had seen the day before: Others, that it was a Spaniard: And others again, that it was a French-man. In the mean time we made way still, and within a little passed the Isle of Elba, of which the Spaniards have one half.* 1.601 It hath two good Ports, the one is called Porto Ferraro, and belongs to the great Duke; and the other Porto Longone, and belongs to the Spaniards. The French took it in the Year One thousand six hundred and forty six, but lost it again One thousand six hundred and fifty. About ten a Clock we were becalmed, about two in the Afternoon, we had an easie Gale from North-north-west, and steer∣ed our course West-north-west. An hour after, we made a Ship and a Bark a-stern and another Ship on head of us. About four a Clock, we saw the Ship a stern give chase to the Bark, and afterwards take her. About six a Clock, we passed the Isle Caprara, leaving it to the Starboard,* 1.602 because of the contrary Wind. When we were come near to it, they made a Smoak upon the Tower, to give warning to the Coast; and there we put out our Colours. From that place we made a Ship at the point of the Island, and on the other hand a Fi∣sher-Boat. This Isle belongs to the Genoese; it is small, not being above ten Miles in Circuit, but fruitful in good Wine. On the South-side of it there is a little Tower, and a Castle on the North-side, which has fifty Soldiers in Garison, and about an hundred Inhabitants, who are so much given to Shoot∣ing (there being great store of Game upon the Island); that for five or six pound of Powder, they'll give you a Barrel of Wine, and thanks to boot.* 1.603 There, and before the Isle Gorgona, they fish for Anchoves, and in Fishing-sea∣son, so many Boats come there upon that account, that about the Month of May, there are above five hundred Souls lodged in the Castle.

CHAP. LXXXXV. The Relation of an Engagement we had with three Spanish Corsairs.

SƲnday night, and Monday morning, the seventh of April, the Wind was fickle, sometimes Westerly, sometimes Easterly, but blew always fresh, and we still kept on our Course; but Monday the seventh of April, (which was Monday in the Holy Week) about four a Clock in the morning, we made two Ships and a Bark, or Sloop, that bore up towards us, there being so little Wind, that it was almost a Calm. About eight a Clock, having perceived the Spanish Colours abroad upon the Ships and Bark, we put out the English Colours, and furled all our Sails but the Maintop-sail. This put them to a stand, when they saw with what Resolution we waited for them. So that be∣ing within Cannon shot of us, they all three came to Counsel together, and we prepared to make a vigorous Defence, for it was too late for us now to flatter our selves with the hopes that they might be Friends; the storm had hovered so long, that it must needs break at last. I could not then but reflect upon my Luck, that I should be Shipwrack'd in the Harbour; for having been now almost seven Years absent out of France my Native Country, when I thought my self (as it were) sound and safe at Home again, I saw my self upon the point of losing at least my Liberty. I made no doubt but that we should be worsted in the Engagement, where the Match was so unequal. How∣ever, we were all in good heart, and I look'd upon the Isles of Caprara and Gorgona, as two Theatres, wherein the Inhabitants were to behold (at ease, and out of all danger) the engagement we were about to enter in, like Gla∣diators destined for their Diversion; for we were at an equal distance from both these Isles. In the mean time we made all things ready, that were neces∣sary for our Defence, all the Chests, Hamocks, and other Goods and Clothes that were in the Cabins, and upon the Gun-Deck, were carried aloft upon the Poop, that they might be no hindrance to the Traversing of our Guns, and that produced a good effect. For the Enemies being busied in plundering them, were in the mean time killed, and besides, it hindered them from breaking in with their Hatchets to the Cabin where we were; which they must have done to master us. A hole was made in the Floor of the Masters Cabin to go down to the Gun-Room, and so all through the Ship, where there was occa∣sion; and in case the Enemies should have rendered themselves Masters of the great Cabin, we would quickly have got down into the Gun-Room, and ha∣ving made fast the Passage, blown up the Poop, and all that were upon it. The Main-yard was Chained to the Mast with a great iron-Chain, which no Hatchet could easily cut; for if the Enemies could have brought the Main-yard upon the Deck, they would have made a great clutter in the Ship, and we should have been half overcome. All the Guns were Loaded, and the six Scopa Coperta Pieces were charged with bunches of Grapes, (the small shot, I mentioned before). Water was put in all places of the Ship, to put out Fire, if it should happen any where. All things being thus prepared, our Captain gave the necessary Orders, then made a short Speech to his Men, and gave them all a drachm of the Bottle, and then all cried, God save the Captain. So bidding one another farewel, every one went to his several Post; some to the great Cabin, others to the Gun-Room, some to the Gun-Deck, and others to the Fore-Castle, there being a Man to command in every Post: For my part, I stayed with the Captain in the great Cabin.* 1.604 The Chirurgion went down into the Hold, where he prepared his Medicines, and stayed to take care of the Wounded Men that should be brought down to him. After these Gentlemen had been in Counsel almost two hours, their Boats carrying Men often from one to another, they came up with us. The English Mate who spoke French,

told me, that we should have the Honour to fire the first and last Gun; and immediately we let flie three or four great shot at them, the first of which would certainly have sunk the biggest Ship, if the Bullet had been but half a foot higher, but it fell in the Water close by the Ships side; which seemed to put Courage into them, for they thereupon made loud shouts. And the biggest Ship making a great Noise and Bravado, with a Trumpet he had, having fired some great shot among our Rigging, which only grazed upon our Masts, about ten a Clock laid us on board, and grappled with us on the Starboard side, ly∣ing along our Quarter, from the Stern to the middle of our Waste. Immedi∣ately we shut our selves into the great Cabin, and then the Guns went off Pell Mell on all hands; the Patache and Bark came up and fired their Broad-sides, endeavouring chiefly to shoot our Masts by the board, which would have been a great advantage to them. They fired also several Petreras, charged with Musquet shot, which would have done great Execution, if we had been Aloft; but our Walls were Musquet-prooff, and we could hear showers of Bullets bat∣ter against the Ships sides. Presently several of their men came on board of us, who ran up the Shrouds to endeavour to let fall the Yards; and we brought them down with small shot, which we fired through holes purposely made. When they found themselves so well plied with Musquet shot, and that all who were above Decks (both in their own Ship, and on board of us) were fallen, for we fired out of the Port-holes and Skuttles, upon all that appeared on board of them, and cleared the Deck fore and aft, of all that came on board of us; many of them got up to the top of our Masts, thinking that the securest place they could find, and no man was more to be seen upon the Deck, or any other part of the Ship, they who were aloft hiding themselves the best way they could. The Bell rung twice or thrice from the Fore-Castle, and presently we fell upon our Bellies, but they who were upon the Poop hearing the Bell, got immediately upon the Shrouds, so that there was no hitting of them; but some being perceived one time upon the Poop, (without ringing the Bell) they fired a Scopa Coperta from the Fore-Castle, which killed three or four of them. In the mean time, we kept firing with great and small shot, and if any of the Enemy attempted to get upon our Poop over the Skuttles of the Cabins, we easily prickt them, or run them through with our Swords. At length, about three a Clock in the Afternoon, finding that the Enemies fired no more, we came out with our Swords and Pistols, and saw the Patache and Bark, towing off with their Boats, and the great Ship grappled with ours, but no body ap∣pearing upon the Deck. We sent some great shot after those that fled, and had we fired but as many more, perhaps they would have struck Sail and yield∣ed themselves. So we had the Honour to fire the first and last Gun. Then we offered Quarter to those who were aloft upon our Masts; and as fast as they came down, we disarmed them, and clapt them down into the Hold. The Captain was for sending Men on board their Ship, but it seeming to me strange that they should so lose their biggest Ship, I told the Captain, That perhaps they only pretended to flie, to tempt our Men on board of that Ship, where lying in Ambush, they might Blow them all up, that so coming back again, they might have less trouble to take us. He had some regard to my advice, and sent no body. For my part, I would not suffer my Man to go, though he had a great mind to it; not only because I was afraid he might come to some harm, but also that it might not be said the French had Plundered any thing. At length, perceiving that the Enemies Boat carried several out of that Ship on board the Vessels that fled, and was coming back for more, And being told by a Man who had leapt into the Sea, to save himself by Swimming, (but was taken up) that there was no danger; though we assured him that he should die for it if he told a Lye: Our Men boarded the Enemies Ship, and presently took down the Spanish Colours. They easily afterwards made themselves Masters of the Men that remained, whom they brought on board of us; most part all Bloody, and more than half dead for fear, for they expected no Quarter. Among the rest the Captain was taken, who was a young Dutch-man in the Spaniards Service; he had two Musquet shots in his right Side, and right Arm His Ship was called the Great Alexander, and was the very same which Papachin. had taken by Surprise and Treachery, from the Chevalier de Bious, and this

Fleman had bought her from Papachin. She carried eight and twenty Guns, and sixteen Petreras, and the Captain told us, that the Patache which was gone with the Bark, carried sixteen Guns, and six and twenty Petreras, and the Bark four Guns, and twenty four Petreras; and that among them, they had in all betwixt three and four hundred Men.

He then gave us an account, how the day before, they put to Sea out of Porto Ferraro, that having made us, they had born up towards us, and that next morning (which was the same day of this Engagement) being come up with us, they had held Counsel, and resolved that the Great Alexander should lay us aboard, and the Patache and Bark shear along our side, and fire their Broad-sides into us; that afterward the Bark should fall a Stern and rake us from Stern to Stem, to beat our Men from the Guns, whilst the Patache lay by our side, and kept continually firing, and therefore they had put Two hun∣dred and twenty men on board the Great Alexander, an Hundred and fifty into the Patache, leaving thirty remaining in the Sloop or Bark. Their resolution was in part executed, for the great Ship laid us aboard and grappled with us, but when the others as they sheared by us, saw no Man above Deck, but only six Guns to scower the Deck, and many of their men fell, they fired their Broad-sides according to their promise, and then made the best of their way, leaving the great Ship engaged, who finding themselves worsted by us, would have been gone also, and therefore sent several Men to cast loose the Grap∣plings; but their design being unknown to us, we knocked them down as fast as they shewed themselves, so that no more of them durst appear. He also told us, That about the end of the Engagement, his Boat went three times to the Patache, or smaller Ship, and carried away from him every time, as many Men as she could hold, it being out of his power to hinder them; and that several attempting to save themselves by Swimming, were Drowned. He seemed to be enraged against the Captain of the Patache, who had so abandon∣ed him, and said, That he would willingly give Three thousand pieces of Eight, that he might kill him. We killed on board the Great Alexander, three∣score and five Men, and wounded above fifty.

We were since informed at Legorn, that (by their own confession) they lost and had disabled in the Engagement, an Hundred and fourscore Men, partly killed on board their Ships, partly dead of their Wounds ashoar; among whom was the Lieutenant of the Great Alexander, and partly Maimed. The Great Alexander had four or five shot betwixt Wind and Water, which would have sunk her to the bottom, if our Men had not speedily stopt the Leaks; and the Patache that ran for it, had also three or four shot betwixt Wind and Water, which would likewise have sunk her to our view, if there had been any rough Sea. We took Ninety three Prisoners, among whom were some French, who having taken on, some with Captain Lantier, a Fortnight; and some with Captain Fugane, eight days before this Engagement, had left the Ships of these two Captains at Porto Ferraro.

We lost but two Men, both killed by one Cannon Bullet, that going through and through the Gun-Room where they were, carried off one half of their Head, and dashed their Blood and Brains against the Tillar. We had also two Men wounded in the Leg with small shot. The Prisoners being searched and riffled, they untied their Hands, and clapt them down into the Hold, where they had Victuals and Drink given them, and the Wounded were carefully drest; so that our Chirurgeon had none but Enemies to dress. And the Chi∣rurgeon of the Great Alexander told us, That he had never had so much Pra∣ctice as that day, for they brought him down Wounded Men, faster than he could well turn to. In short, all the Prisoners were so civilly used, that they wondered at it, and said, that they lived not so well on board their own Ship: But there was a good Guard placed at the Hatches, both to hinder them from attempting any thing, and to hand down what they wanted; as for the Captain he was lodged in the great Cabin with our Captain, where he was well look'd after, and wanted for nothing. I prayed our Captain to give the French their Liberty, which he presently did very generously, saying, That the French might command any thing on board of his Ship. The chief Mate and some Sea-men, were sent to sail the Prize. The two other sail with

much ado rowed off to the Isle of Elba, and went back to Porto Ferraro. When all things were put in order in our Ship, I went along with the Captain to see the Prize; we found that poor Ship sadly shattered, our Cross-bar-shot had made great Havock in her, one of them had split a Petrera in two, and another so mangled a Gunner, that we found an Arm, a Belly, and two Legs, and no body could tell what was become of the rest of him. These Cross-bar-shot are round Bars of Iron, three Fingers thick, and a Foot long; ha∣ving at each end a round knob of Iron, all of one piece, they are put long-ways into the Gun, but when they come out, they flie cross-ways, every way doing terrible Execution. There were dying Men still on board that Ship, who could not be removed, because of their Mortal Wounds; and the Dead were thrown over-board, so soon as we were Masters of the Ship. We found on board a great many Bales of Stuff, fine Cloth, and other things, which they had taken some days before in the two French Ships, I formerly menti∣oned, and four thousand pieces of Eight in ready Money.

We observed that that day was St. Alexander's Day, and the Ship which we took, was called the Great Alexander. After we had rejoyced a little, and heartily praised God for our Adventure, we made the best of our Way; about seven a Clock at night, we had the Wind at South-west, and stood away North. Tuesday the eighth of April, about two a Clock in the Morning, we sailed by Gorgona, a little Island belonging to the Great Duke;* 1.605 leaving it to the Larboard, and steered on our Course, with the Prize a-stern of us. About five a Clock in the morning, from the Main-top we discovered the Light of Legorn. About seven in the morning, we spied a Sail to the Starboard, bear∣ing towards us, but shortly after it steered away its first Course. About two a Clock in the Afternoon, we came into the Road of Legorn, and entered in Triumph, having on the Poop, and Maintop-mast head, the Spanish Colours under the English, and the Trumpet of the Prize sounded, whilst the Prize came after us without any Ensign abroad. So soon as we came into the Road, the Prize fired all the Guns and Petreras with shot, and then our Ship fired seven Guns, and came to an Anchor. All the People were come to the Harbour to know what the matter was, for they had heard the Guns when we were Engaged; and besides a Bark having set out from Legorn, and seen our En∣gagement at a distance, came back again, alledging that they were obliged to do so, because they had seen four Ships engaged, two against two. When we were come in, and that from shoar they saw a Ship without Colours, they soon concluded it was a Prize, but when they saw the Spanish Colours under the English, their Affections were much divided. So soon as we were quiet at Anchor, all the English Ships saluted us; then the Health-boat came, and put Waiters on board of us, to keep the People of the Town from mingling with us. To these we gave a full account of our Engagement, which they punctu∣ally wrote down, how many Prisoners we had taken, and how many were Killed and Wounded, that they might send the news of it to the Great Duke. After that, all the English in Legorn, and several French, came in Boats on board to visit us, and congratulate our Victory, we saluted them all with three Guns a piece; so that our Ship fired above two hundred Guns that day. Then they went to see the Prize, which the Captain called his Child. Every Body was astonished at this Victory, for it had never been known before, that a Merchant-man took a Man of War, which had two others to assist her. Our Captain was so Just to us, as to tell all that came on board of him, that the French had had a great hand in saving his Ship, which the same day went over all Legorn, and afterwards all over Italy.

It is certain enough we had our share in that Victory, though we were but five French-men in all, to wit, three Merchants of Marseilles, my self, and my man. For the English are very nimble in Charging and Discharging their Guns, and will Fire three shot, before others can do two, and all the Officers of the Ship fought very well; but the Common Sea-men were in such a Maze, that they knew not what they did, and were put in heart much by the French, who fired without intermission: So that my Man, called John Guillerval, with thirteen shot, killed so many Men, (as all that were on the same Quarter affirmed who easily saw what Execution every shot did.) Hardly any Guns

but those in the Poop were used, and every time they were to be Traversed, the French must lend a hand to it; for the English Sea-men seemed to be a sleep, and laughed to see the French tug at it. My man also served there so eagerly, that he crushed one of his Fingers betwixt a Rope and a Pully of a Gun which he was bringing to, and I was afraid he should have been maimed by it. I thought my self obliged to say of him in this place, what all the men of the Ship have every where published, seeing it is all the Reward he had, for though the Captain promised him his share in the Booty, (as in right it did belong to him as well as to all who fought); nevertheless he gave him nothing, nor to any other of the French, nor indeed, did we ask any thing. In the mean time, (though we were in the Port) yet we kept good Guard aboard in the Night-time, having all our Guns loaded with shot, because we had a suspicion that some Dutch Ships, that were also in the Port, had a mind to take our Prize from us, and the Great Duke seemed unwilling to allow us his Protection. Our Captain told me, That if the Great Duke would not re∣ceive him into Protection, he was resolved to kill and throw over-board all the Prisoners, and then set sail for England with his Prize. This design wrought horrour in me, and I was much in fear they might put it in Execution; for I perceived they were inclinable enough to do so: But at length, on Good-Friday, about four a Clock in the Afternoon, the Health-boat came aboard of us, and gave us Prattick, entring the Ship and mingling with us, which was a singular favour; for we expected at least to have made a Week or a Fortnight of Quarantine. All the Prisoners were set at Liberty, and put a-shoar, and next day, Saturday the twelfth of April, we also went a-shoar.

Laudate Dominum de Caelis, laudate eum in excelsis, quonian confirmata est super nos Miserecordia ejus, & veritas Domini manet in Aeternum.

There is come into my Hands, a Relation of the taking of Babylon, other∣wise called Bagdat, by Sultan Amurath, Translated out of Turkish into French, which I here give the Reader in the same Terms as I had it.

FINIS.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Alexandria, or Skenderia.
• * 1.2

  Farillon.
• * 1.3

  Muhezin.
• * 1.4

  Maalem.
• * 1.5

  Fine Antiqui∣ties of Alex∣andria.
• * 1.6

  The walls of Alexandria.
• * 1.7

  Magnificent Towers of the walls of Alexandria.
• * 1.8

  Pompey's Pil∣lar in Alexan∣dria.
• * 1.9

  An opinion concerning the matter of the Pillar of Pompey.
• * 1.10

  Caesars Palace in Alexandria.
• * 1.11

  Khalis.
• * 1.12

  The Cisterns of Alexandria.
• * 1.13

  A Subterra∣nean Town in Alexandria.
• * 1.14

  Pouseragues.
• * 1.15

  Juice of Li∣mons.
• * 1.16

  The Stone on which St. Ca∣therine was Beheaded.
• * 1.17

  A Picture of of St Michael made by St. Luke. St. Mark.
• * 1.18

  The Palace of St. Cathe∣rines Father. Porphyrian pillars in Al∣exandria.

  Obolisks of Garnet in Al∣exandria.
• * 1.19

  The palace of Cleopatra.
• * 1.20

  Stones engra∣ved.
• * 1.21

  Talismans.
• * 1.22

  Good Asses in Aegypt.

  Christians in Aegypt cannot ride on Horse back through Towns.

  Asses stand ready in the streets of the Towns of Aegypt.
• * 1.23

  Bouquier.
• * 1.24

  Rossetto.
• * 1.25

  Tht mouth of the Nile at Rossetto.
• * 1.26

  Rossetto.
• * 1.27

  The cun∣ning of the Arabs who rob in Rossetto.
• * 1.28

  Boulac.
• * 1.29

  Caire.
• * 1.30

  Mamalukes.
• * 1.31

  Thomambey.
• * 1.32

  Babzuaila.
• * 1.33

  Caire stands ill.
• * 1.34

  Birques.
• * 1.35

  Memphis.
• * 1.36

  The circum∣ference of Caire, how many leagues
• * 1.37

  23000 Pre∣cincts, and as many Mosques in Caire.

  Two Men chained toge∣ther, watch every Quar∣ter of Caire.
• * 1.38

  The number of Mosques in Caire.
• * 1.39

  Dgemiel-azem.
• * 1.40

  The Pyra∣mides of Aegypt.
• * 1.41

  The di∣stance of the Pyramides from Caire.
• * 1.42

  The number of the Pyra∣mides.
• * 1.43

  A very exact measure of the Pyra∣mides by Fa∣ther Elzear, a Capucin.
• * 1.44

  The side by which one should go up the Pyramide
• * 1.45

  The heighth of the Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.46

  A Room.
• * 1.47

  A Platform upon the Py∣ramide.
• * 1.48

  A Stone thrown from the top of the Pyra∣mide falls not beyond the steps.
• * 1.49

  The Door of the Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.50

  A little Hill joyned to the Pyramide.
• * 1.51

  A very great Stone over the Door of the Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.52

  Two other passages in the Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.53

  A Window which many alledg.
• * 1.54

  A Hall in the Pyramide.
• * 1.55

  The Beauty of the walls of the hall of the Pyramid.
• * 1.56

  A hole in the pit of the Pyramide.
• * 1.57

  Arabs rob those that go to see the Pyramids.
• * 1.58

  Second Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.59

  Third Pyra∣mide.
• * 1.60

  370000 work∣men in build∣ing the first Pyramide.

  Twenty years spent in the work; and one thousand eight hundred Talents laid out in Tur∣nips and O∣nions.
• * 1.61

  The marks of Buildings near the Py∣ramides.
• * 1.62

  Abou el haoun. Sphynx. King Amasis.
• * 1.63

  Rhodope.
• * 1.64

  The Figure of the Idol or Sphynx.

  The height of the Sphynx.
• * 1.65

  Sakara the Village of the Mummies.
• * 1.66

  How People sleep at Sa∣kara.
• * 1.67

  Memphis. The Field of Mummies. A lovely Py∣ramide to∣wards the place of the Mummies.
• * 1.68

  Mummie-Pits.
• * 1.69

  A descent in∣to a Mummie-Pit.
• * 1.70

  An entire bo∣dy of a Mum∣mie.
• * 1.71

  The Coffin of the Mummie. Stone Coffins.
• * 1.72

  Coffins made of Cloth.
• * 1.73

  The face of the Mummie. The Head of the Mummie.
• * 1.74

  The Bandages Mummies.
• * 1.75

  Idols in the Coffins of the dead.

  Idols within the dead bo∣dies.

  The Balm wherewith bodies were anointed in Aegypt.
• * 1.76

  Bodies pre∣served in Sand.
• * 1.77

  Rooms full of bodies in the Mummies.
• * 1.78

  Idols of Mummies.
• * 1.79

  The reason of the Egyp∣tians expens∣fulness in their Tombs.
• * 1.80

  Memphis.
• * 1.81

  Old Caire.
• * 1.82

  The Church of Abousargis served by Cophtes.
• * 1.83

  The Church of St. George in old Caire.
• * 1.84

  Granaries of Joseph.
• * 1.85

  The Fustade.
• * 1.86

  An Aqueduct at old Caire.
• * 1.87

  Matharee.
• * 1.88

  The Etymo∣logie of Ma∣tharee.
• * 1.89

  Saki.
• * 1.90

  An Obelisk near the Gar∣den of Matha∣ree.
• * 1.91

  The Camp of Selim, when he besieged Caire.
• * 1.92

  The Castle of Caire.
• * 1.93

  The Mosque of Sultan Ha∣san, at Caire.
• * 1.94

  A hole in Jo∣seph's Well, that goes to the Pyra∣mides.
• * 1.95

  Another hole in Josephs Well, which the Aegyptians say, reaches as far as Suez.
• * 1.96

  Onely two Springs of Water in Ae∣gypt.
• * 1.97

  Joseph's Hall. Thirty Pil∣lars of The∣baick stone in Joseph's Hall.

  The Hall of Joseph's Ste∣ward.
• * 1.98

  Joseph's Dun∣geon.
• * 1.99

  The bad u∣sage of Priso∣ners by the Gaolers of the Arcane.
• * 1.100

  The strength of Sultan A∣murat.
• * 1.101

  A most love∣ly Castle in Caire.
• * 1.102

  The Castle of Caire, ancient.
• * 1.103

  The Fountain of Lovers.
• * 1.104

  Calaat el Kabh.
• * 1.105

  Garden of Lovers. Sesostris.
• * 1.106

  Locks and Keys of wood in Caire.
• * 1.107

  Bazar.
• * 1.108

  Han Kalil.
• * 1.109

  Slaves sold in a Market.
• * 1.110

  The Hospital and Mosque of Mad Peo∣ple. Morestan.
• * 1.111

  Turkie-work Carpets made at Caire.
• * 1.112

  The manner of the Ovens for hatching of Chickens.
• * 1.113

  How the O∣vens are hea∣ted.
• * 1.114

  An imagi∣nary Resur∣rection of the dead in Aegypt
• * 1.115

  An Appariti∣on of the bles∣sed Virgin in a Nunnery of the Cophtes. Gemiane.

  An Appariti∣on of Saints among the Cophtes.
• * 1.116

  The Grand Signiors reve∣nue in Aegypt.
• * 1.117

  The Caval∣cade at the setting out of the Grand Sig∣niors hazna for Constantinople.
• * 1.118

  Laylet el Kou∣vat.

  The night when the Al∣coran came down from Heaven.
• * 1.119

  What the Beys of Caire do when a Basha is Man∣soul.
• * 1.120

  The Caval∣cade at the going out the Basha Mansoul.
• * 1.121

  The encamp∣ing of the Basha Man∣soul of Caire.
• * 1.122

  Mahomet's Vest.
• * 1.123

  Emir-Adge.
• * 1.124

  The Caval∣cade of the coming down of Mahomet's Vest.
• * 1.125

  The respect of the Maho∣metans for the Presents that are sent to Mecha.
• * 1.126

  Six Field-pieces for the Journey of Mecha.
• * 1.127

  Four Camels kept for the service of Mahomet.

  Five Cara∣vans make the Journey of Mecha.

  The Caravan of Caire.

  The Caravan of Damascus.

  The Caravan of the Ma∣grebins.

  The Caravan of Persia.

  The Caravan of the Mogul. The Emir-Adge in the Journey of Mecha, takes with him 1500. Camels of his own. The number of Men and Beasts in the Caravan of Caire for Mecha.
• * 1.128

  The Birque.
• * 1.129

  The depar∣ture of the Caravan.
• * 1.130

  The Caravans travel only by night.
• * 1.131

  An Itinerary from Caire to Mecha.
• * 1.132

  Misana. Kalaat Aadge∣roud. Navatir. Raftagara. Kalaat el Nah∣hal. Abiar Alaina. Sath el Akaba. Kalaat el Aka∣ba. Dar elHhamar. Scharafe Beni∣gateie. Magare Chou∣aib. Eyoun el Ka∣seb. Kalaat el Moi∣lah. Castel. Kalaat Ezlem. Istanbel Antir. Kalaat el Voud∣ge. Ekre. Hank Krue. Hhawre. Nabte. Nabathean A∣rabs. Hazire. Yanbouh. Soucaife. Beder Hunein. Sibil el Mouh∣sin. Rabij. Haramein.
• * 1.133

  Kawdire. Bir el fan. Vadi Fatima. Mecha.
• * 1.134

  A description of Mecha. Kiaabe.
• * 1.135

  A black stone come down from Heaven.
• * 1.136

  A great hap∣piness for him that first kis∣ses that stone on a certain day.
• * 1.137

  Reliks of the stuffs of Mec∣ha. Sultan Scherif
• * 1.138

  Why the Sche∣rif of Mecha ride on Horse∣back barefoot¦ed.
• * 1.139

  For what use the Pilgrims of Mecha is
• * 1.140

  Eight days nakedness in the pilgri∣mage of Mecha.

  Great conti∣nence during these eight days.
• * 1.141

  Arrival at Mecha.
• * 1.142

  Minnet. Little Bairam
• * 1.143

  Mount Arafat, where Abra∣ham went to sacrifice his Son.

  Throwing of stones.

  The place where the Devil temp∣ted Abraham.

  The place where Adam and Eve met after a search of two hun∣dred and twen¦ty years.
• * 1.144

  Journey to Medina.
• * 1.145

  Mahomet's Tomb.
• * 1.146

  The return of the Cara∣van, & of the Aga that goes to meet it. Fresh Provi∣sions for the Caravan.
• * 1.147

  The time the Caravan takes in going and coming from Mecha.
• * 1.148

  Perhaps, the Samiel which the Authour treats of in the Second Part of his Travels. How many died in the Journey to Mecha.
• * 1.149

  Adgi.
• * 1.150

  The Gain of the Emir-Adge
• * 1.151

  Mecha.
• * 1.152

  Gidde.
• * 1.153

  Kiaabe. Beytullah.
• * 1.154

  The black Stone of Mecha.
• * 1.155

  Four Sects of Mahometans.
• * 1.156

  A Spout of beaten Gold.
• * 1.157

  The House covered with Hangings.
• * 1.158

  Medina. Iambo.
• * 1.159

  Mahomet's Tomb.
• * 1.160

  Turbe, where the Sepulchre of Mahomet is.
• * 1.161

  Rich stones about the Tomb of Mahomet.
• * 1.162

  Myne.
• * 1.163

  Arafa.
• * 1.164

  Member.
• * 1.165

  The return of Adam and Eve.
• * 1.166

  The place of Abraham's Sa∣crifice.
• * 1.167

  The Sacrifice of the Maho∣metans.
• * 1.168

  A Miracle af∣ter the third day of the little Bairam.
• * 1.169

  The Pilgri∣mage of Me∣cha is not per∣formed for visiting of Mahomet's Tomb.
• * 1.170

  Criers of the growth of the Nile.

  The Farm of the Criers of the growth of the Nile. A Serraglio of the Basha in an Isle op∣posite ro old Caire.

  A Pillar whereon the encrease of the Nile is measured.
• * 1.171

  Khalis.
• * 1.172

  The cutting of the Khalis by the Sous∣basha.
• * 1.173

  Sakas. The Sakas prohibited to take Water out of che Khalis when it runs no more.

  Great scench and infection of the Khalis when it runs not.
• * 1.174

  The Sousbasha lets the water of the Khalis stand and corrupt for his own profit. How the Kha∣lis is dried.
• * 1.175

  The Nile brings much earth into the Khalis.
• * 1.176

  The Tent prepared for the Basha.
• * 1.177

  Preparations for a Feast to the Basha of Caire, which a Bey takes care of.

  How much it costs.

  At his arri∣val they kill a Bullock and a Sheep.

  The Feast at the entry of the Basha of Caire, how ordered.

  Of what it consists. Kiaya.
• * 1.178

  A Feast for many persons in one ser∣vice.
• * 1.179

  The Basha's entry into Caire.
• * 1.180

  The Green Troop.
• * 1.181

  Yellow Troop.
• * 1.182

  Red Troop.
• * 1.183

  A Troop of Tartars.
• * 1.184

  Mehkeime.
• * 1.185

  The Journey from Caire to Suez.
• * 1.186

  Provisions for going from Caire to Suez.
• * 1.187

  A Tempest in the Desart.
• * 1.188

  The march of the Cara∣vans.
• * 1.189

  Arrival at Suez.
• * 1.190

  Mount Sinai. Dgebel Mousa, the Mountain of Moses.
• * 1.191

  Orders given to the Scheiek to answer for the Traveller
• * 1.192

  Caffarie.
• * 1.193

  Provision for two Scheicks.
• * 1.194

  The Journey to Tor.
• * 1.195

  Camels.
• * 1.196

  Dromedaries.
• * 1.197

  Ain el Mouse.
• * 1.198

  An Arab who who had not eaten in five days time.
• * 1.199

  Meeting with Arabs in the Desart.
• * 1.200

  Antelopes, a Beast betwixt a Goat and a Deer. Chacales. Estridges.
• * 1.201

  Deve Cousch.
• * 1.202

  How Estridges are taken.
• * 1.203

  The Eutter or Mantegue of an Estridge
• * 1.204

  Exod. Chap. 15. Corondel Haman of Pha∣raon.
• * 1.205

  Tor.
• * 1.206

  A Sea-man.
• * 1.207

  Elim.
• * 1.208

  Hamam Mousa
• * 1.209

  Desart of Sin. Acacia.
• * 1.210

  Cottages of Arabs.
• * 1.211

  Raphidim.
• * 1.212

  The Rock which Moses smote with his Rod.
• * 1.213

  The Moun∣tain of St. Catharine.
• * 1.214

  The Moun∣tain of Moses.
• * 1.215

  The height of the Moun∣tain of Moses.
• * 1.216

  The Monaste∣ry of St. Ca∣therine.
• * 1.217

  An Eagle o∣ver Mahomet's Head.
• * 1.218

  Mahomet's Promise.
• * 1.219

  Mahomet could not write.
• * 1.220

  Mount Horeb.
• * 1.221

  The place where the Golden Calf was molten.
• * 1.222

  Father Ker∣cher.
• * 1.223

  Return from Mount Sinai to Suez.
• * 1.224

  Corah, Dathan and Abiram.
• * 1.225

  Mafrouca.
• * 1.226

  Scheik el Kebir.
• * 1.227

  The Scheiks of the Arabs.
• * 1.228

  Arabian Horses.
• * 1.229

  The food of the Arabian Horses.
• * 1.230

  Erythra.
• * 1.231

  Buhr el Cal∣zem. Clysma.
• * 1.232

  Cossir. Chana.
• * 1.233

  Coptos where situated.
• * 1.234

  Chagrin a fish.
• * 1.235

  Suez. Arsinoe. Ptolomy Phi∣ladelphus.
• * 1.236

  Return from Suez to Caire.
• * 1.237

  A dangerous hot Wind.
• * 1.238

  A great Mor∣tality by that Wind.
• * 1.239

  From Caire to Gaza.
• * 1.240

  Counes.
• * 1.241

  A Clergy man pays less than a Secular.
• * 1.242

  Hhanque.
• * 1.243

  Bulbeys.
• * 1.244

  Salabia. Tamarisks.
• * 1.245

  Sirbonite Lake.
• * 1.246

  Bir.
• * 1.247

  Catie.
• * 1.248

  Cachef.
• * 1.249

  Salt of Rain-water.
• * 1.250

  Birlab.
• * 1.251

  Bir Acat.
• * 1.252

  Riche.
• * 1.253

  Zaka.
• * 1.254

  Cauniones.
• * 1.255

  Gaza.
• * 1.256

  Lordships of the Philistins.
• * 1.257

  Megdel.
• * 1.258

  Hhansedoud.
• * 1.259

  A Plain of Tulips and Emonies.
• * 1.260

  Rama. Ramla.
• * 1.261

  The House of Nicomedes.
• * 1.262

  Bethlakij.
• * 1.263

  Dgib, the Town of Sa∣muel.
• * 1.264

  Coudscherif.
• * 1.265

  The recepti∣on of Pil∣grims at Je∣rusalem.
• * 1.266

  The Judge∣ment-Gate in Jerusalem.
• * 1.267

  The House of Veronica.
• * 1.268

  The House of the Rich Glutton.
• * 1.269

  The Arch of Ecce Homo.
• * 1.270

  The Palace of Pilate.
• * 1.271

  Scala Sancta.
• * 1.272

  The place of Flagellation.
• * 1.273

  Porta Gregis.
• * 1.274

  Mount of O∣lives.
• * 1.275

  Place of As∣cension.
• * 1.276

  St. Pelagia.
• * 1.277

  The Grott where the Creed was made.

  The Sepul∣chre of Abso∣lom.

  The Sepul∣chre of Jeho∣saphat.
• * 1.278

  The Sepul∣chre of Za∣charias.
• * 1.279

  The Brook Kedron.
• * 1.280

  The Valley of Jehosaphat.
• * 1.281

  Garden of Olives.
• * 1.282

  Garden of Bethsemany.
• * 1.283

  The Sepul∣chre of the Virgin Mary.
• * 1.284

  The Sepul∣chres of St. Joackin and St. Ann.

  The Sepul∣chres of St. Joseph and St. Simeon.
• * 1.285

  The Sepul∣chre of the Virgin.
• * 1.286

  The place where St. Stephen was stoned. Sheep Pool. Salomon's Temple. The house of St. Ann.
• * 1.287

  A Tax for entering into the holy Se∣pulchre.
• * 1.288

  A fair Steeple of St. Sepul∣chre.
• * 1.289

  The Door of the Church of St. Sepul∣chre.
• * 1.290

  The Chappel of the Appa∣rition.
• * 1.291

  Pillar of Fla∣gellation. Prison of our Lord.
• * 1.292

  Mount Cal∣vary.
• * 1.293

  Stone of Ʋnction.
• * 1.294

  A curious Lamp before the Holy Se∣pulchre.
• * 1.295

  The Quire of the Church of St. Sepulchre
• * 1.296

  The middle of the World in St. Sepulchre
• * 1.297

  The Body of the Church of St. Sepulchre.
• * 1.298

  The Chappel of the Appa∣rition.
• * 1.299

  The Chappel of the Pillar of Flagella∣tion.
• * 1.300

  The Stone of Noli me tan∣gere.
• * 1.301

  The Chappel of St. Mary Magdalen.
• * 1.302

  The Chappel of our Lord's Prison.
• * 1.303

  The Place of the Inscripti∣on of the Ho∣ly Cross.

  The Chappel of the Part∣ing of the Garments.
• * 1.304

  The Chappel of the Inven∣tion of the Cross.
• * 1.305

  The Valley of the Dead Bo∣dies.
• * 1.306

  The Cleft of the Rock at the Passion. The Chappel of St. Helen.
• * 1.307

  The Chappel of Exprobra∣tion.
• * 1.308

  The place where the Cross of our Lord was planted.
• * 1.309

  The Chappel of Crucifixion
• * 1.310

  The Chappel of our Lady of Pity.

  The Tombs of Godfrey of Boulloin, and his Brother Baldowin.

  The Epitaph of Godfrey of Boulloin.

  The Epitaph of Baldowin.
• * 1.311

  The Tomb of Melchisedeck.
• * 1.312

  The Tombs of the Chil∣dren of Bal∣dowin.
• * 1.313

  The Stone of Unction.
• * 1.314

  The Sepul∣chres of Nico∣demus, and Jo∣seph of Arima∣thea.
• * 1.315

  The way of Ringing to the Office in St. Sepulchres.
• * 1.316

  The fountain of the Apo∣stles. Bethany.
• * 1.317

  Jericho.
• * 1.318

  The House of Zacheus.
• * 1.319

  Roses of Jericho.
• * 1.320

  The River of Jordan.
• * 1.321

  The course of Jordan.
• * 1.322

  Lake Asphal∣tites.
• * 1.323

  Devotions at Jordan.
• * 1.324

  The Dead-Sea.
• * 1.325

  The extent of the Dead-Sea.
• * 1.326

  Return from Jordan.
• * 1.327

  The Musel∣lem numbers the Pilgrims.
• * 1.328

  An avanie for the Pilgrims Franks.
• * 1.329

  The Mount of forty days Fasting.
• * 1.330

  The Grott where our Lord Fasted.
• * 1.331

  The place of the Mountain where our Lord was tempted by the Devil.
• * 1.332

  The prophet Elisha's Well.
• * 1.333

  The inconve∣nience of see∣ing the Holy places.
• * 1.334

  Washing of Feet.
• * 1.335

  The Processi∣on of Holy Friday.
• * 1.336

  The Ceremo∣nies of the Franks.
• * 1.337

  The holy Fire of the Greeks, Armenians, Cophtes, &c.
• * 1.338

  The Turpen∣tine-Tree of the Virgin.
• * 1.339

  The house of St. Simeon.
• * 1.340

  The House of the Prophet Habbakkuk.
• * 1.341

  The place where Elias was Born.
• * 1.342

  The House of Jacob. The Sepul∣chre of Ra∣chel.
• * 1.343

  David's Ci∣stern.
• * 1.344

  Bethlehem.
• * 1.345

  A Convent of Monks.
• * 1.346

  The place of St. Jerome.
• * 1.347

  St. Catharines Church in Bethlehem.
• * 1.348

  The place of the Represen∣tation of the Birth of our Lord.
• * 1.349

  The Sepul∣chre of the Innocents. The Oratory of St. Jerome.
• * 1.350

  The Epitaph of St. Paula.
• * 1.351

  St. Jerome's Tomb.
• * 1.352

  The figure of the Virgin and of her Son naturally im∣printed on Marble.

  The place of the Manger of our Lord.
• * 1.353

  The place of the Kings Adoration.
• * 1.354

  The Church of Bethlehem serves for a lodging to the Turks that pass that way.
• * 1.355

  The Pilgrims of Jerusalem marked in the Arm.
• * 1.356

  Boticella.
• * 1.357

  A Ring that eures the Sick.
• * 1.358

  Fons Signa∣tus.
• * 1.359

  The three Fish-ponds of Salomon.
• * 1.360

  Hortus Con∣clusus. The Mount Anguedy.
• * 1.361

  A Stone be∣come white by the Virgins Milk.
• * 1.362

  Mountains of Judea. The Town of Sennacherib.
• * 1.363

  Brook of Esh∣coll. Vineyard of Sorec.
• * 1.364

  Battir. The Desart of St. John Baptist.
• * 1.365

  The Bed of St. John Bap∣tist.
• * 1.366

  The House of St. Eliza∣beth.
• * 1.367

  The House of Zacharias.
• * 1.368

  The Village of St. John. The Convent of Holy Cross
• * 1.369

  The place where the Olive-Tree was cut down of which the Coss of our Lord was made.
• * 1.370

  The Fish-ponds of Bath∣shebah. Mount Sion. The Palace of David. Aceldama.
• * 1.371

  The Grott of the Apostles.
• * 1.372

  The pit where the Fire was laid during the Captivity of Babylon.
• * 1.373

  Pool of Shiloah
• * 1.374

  The place where the Prophet Isai∣ah was Sawn in sunder a live. The Fountain of the Virgin The Mount of Scandal. The place where Judas hanged him∣self. Bethany The Castle of St. Laza∣rus. The Sepul∣chre of Laza∣rus.
• * 1.375

  The Castle of Mary Magda∣len. The House of Martha.
• * 1.376

  The Grott of St. Peter.
• * 1.377

  Mount Sion. The place of the Lords-Supper.
• * 1.378

  the Sepulchre of David and Salomon.
• * 1.379

  The place where the Virgin died.
• * 1.380

  The Stone that shut the Sepulchre of our Lord.
• * 1.381

  The House of the High Priest Annas.
• * 1.382

  The place where St. James was Be∣headed. The House of St. Thomas. The House of St. Mark.
• * 1.383

  Iron-Gate.
• * 1.384

  The House of Zebedee.
• * 1.385

  The place where St. Ma∣ry the Aegyp∣tian did Pe∣nance. The Prison of St. Peter.
• * 1.386

  Knighthood of Jerusalem.
• * 1.387

  Jerusalem.
• * 1.388

  The Gates of Jerusalem.
• * 1.389

  A Prophecy of the Turks.
• * 1.390

  The Valley of Jehosophat. A Pillar on which Maho∣met will sit at the Day of Judgment. The trans∣formation of Mahomet.
• * 1.391

  Departure from Jerusa∣lem. Emaus.
• * 1.392

  Ramah.
• * 1.393

  Jaffa, Joppa.
• * 1.394

  The place where Andro∣meda was bound.
• * 1.395

  Antipatris. Caesarea. Tortosa. Castel Pele∣grino. Mount Car∣mel.
• * 1.396

  Caipha.
• * 1.397

  Acre. Ptolemais.
• * 1.398

  From Acre to Nazareth.
• * 1.399

  Nazareth.
• * 1.400

  Ezdrelon.
• * 1.401

  The place of the Annunci∣ation.
• * 1.402

  The Cham∣ber of the Virgin.
• * 1.403

  The Preci∣pice.
• * 1.404

  Hermon.
• * 1.405

  Our Lady of fear.
• * 1.406

  Our Saviour's Table. St. Peter's Well.
• * 1.407

  The Tomb of Jonas.
• * 1.408

  The Sea of Galilee. Bethulia.
• * 1.409

  The Mount of Beatitudes.
• * 1.410

  The place and stone up∣on which our Lord blessed the two fishes and five loaves. Tiberias.
• * 1.411

  Mat. c. 16.
• * 1.412

  Lake of Ge∣nezareth. Capernaum. Mat. 9. Mat. 8. John 4.
• * 1.413

  Aain Ettud∣giar.
• * 1.414

  The place where Joseph was sold.
• * 1.415

  Mount Tabor or Gabeltour.
• * 1.416

  The House and Shop of St. Joseph.
• * 1.417

  The way by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth.
• * 1.418

  Elbir.
• * 1.419

  Naplouse.
• * 1.420

  Sichem.
• * 1.421

  The Well of the Samari∣tane.
• * 1.422

  Mount Gere∣zim.
• * 1.423

  Elmaida.
• * 1.424

  The House of Jacob.
• * 1.425

  Sebaste.
• * 1.426

  The Sepul∣chre of St. John Baptist, Elisha and Abdias.
• * 1.427

  Macherus. Samaria.
• * 1.428

  Genny.
• * 1.429

  Ezdrellon.
• * 1.430

  Jezreel. Brook Gison.
• * 1.431

  Menia. Sephet.
• * 1.432

  Josephs Pit.
• * 1.433

  Jacobs Bridge. Dgeseer Jacoub
• * 1.434

  Coneitra.
• * 1.435

  Saxa.
• * 1.436

  Raimbe.
• * 1.437

  Caucab, the place of St. Pauls Conver∣sion.
• * 1.438

  Damascus.
• * 1.439

  Melec Daer.
• * 1.440

  Bab Cherki.
• * 1.441

  Bab Kssa.
• * 1.442

  The Porter St. George.
• * 1.443

  The House of Ananias.
• * 1.444

  Salahia. The Cave of the seven Sleepers.
• * 1.445

  The place where Cain slew his Bro∣ther Abel. Jobar. Elias's Grott.
• * 1.446

  The place where Abra∣ham Fought.
• * 1.447

  Cham.
• * 1.448

  The Village of Cayphas.
• * 1.449

  The Convent on Mount Carmel.
• * 1.450

  Stone-Melons
• * 1.451

  Another Grott of Eli∣as.
• * 1.452

  Emir Tharabe.
• * 1.453

  The Sepul∣chre of Zebu∣lon. Baruth. Gie.
• * 1.454

  Tripoly, Gibel. Patron. Amphe.
• * 1.455

  Mount Liba∣nus. Cannobin.
• * 1.456

  Eden.. Twenty three Cedars in Mount Liba∣nus.
• * 1.457

  French Castle Ama.
• * 1.458

  Assi, or Oron∣tes.
• * 1.459

  Marra.
• * 1.460

  Cotaipha. A fair great Han.
• * 1.461

  Hems.
• * 1.462

  The Case wherein is the Head of St. John Bap∣tist.
• * 1.463

  Arbain Chou∣ade.
• * 1.464

  The Sepul∣chre of St. Julian.
• * 1.465

  The Sepul∣chre of Caius Caesar, the Nephew of Augustus.
• * 1.466

  The Country of Job.
• * 1.467

  Scheicon Hani.
• * 1.468

  Han Touman. Sermin.
• * 1.469

  Singa.
• * 1.470

  From Acre to Damiette.
• * 1.471

  Sanbiquer.
• * 1.472

  Corsairs that were Franks.
• * 1.473

  The Surpri∣sal of an Ha∣bitation by Italian Cor∣sairs.
• * 1.474

  Entertain∣ment on board the Corsairs.
• * 1.475

  Damiette.
• * 1.476

  Departure from Dami∣ette for Caire.
• * 1.477

  Mansoura. Sammenud.
• * 1.478

  Metegamr.
• * 1.479

  The growth of the Nile.
• * 1.480

  A Supersti∣tion in Aegypt concerning the Nile.
• * 1.481

  The publica∣tion of the growth of the Nile.
• * 1.482

  Ceremonies and publick rejoycings at the opening of the Khalis.
• * 1.483

  Acaba.
• * 1.484

  The custome of the anci∣ent Aegypti∣ans at the o∣pening of the Khalis.
• * 1.485

  A Swimmer loaded with Chains.
• * 1.486

  The arrival of the Bey of Girge.
• * 1.487

  Caschefs. The Toug of the Bey.
• * 1.488

  Semhin, or Serban.
• * 1.489

  The arrival of an Ambas∣sadour of Aethiopia at Caire.

  An Ass of ex∣traordinary Beauty.
• * 1.490

  Gontar.
• * 1.491

  Aethiopia.
• * 1.492

  Greyn Maho∣met.
• * 1.493

  The King of Portugal assists the King of Aethiopia.
• * 1.494

  A persecution of the Roman Catholicks in Aethiopia.
• * 1.495

  The belief of the Aethiopi∣ans.
• * 1.496

  The Patri∣arch of Aethi∣opia depends on the Patri∣arch of Alex∣andria.
• * 1.497

  Sennar. Naria.
• * 1.498

  Civet.
• * 1.499

  The way of getting Civet
• * 1.500

  There is no pure Civet to be had.
• * 1.501

  Dangala. Baberins.
• * 1.502

  The source of the Nile is not unknown.
• * 1.503

  Semain. Sallemt.
• * 1.504

  Ghidhon chief of the Jews.
• * 1.505

  Esine.
• * 1.506

  The Journey to the De∣sarts of St. Macharius.
• * 1.507

  Dris.
• * 1.508

  Monastery of St. Macharius.
• * 1.509

  Ambabichoye.
• * 1.510

  Tarik el Ma∣laike.
• * 1.511

  Chadgeret el Taa.
• * 1.512

  The Mona∣stery of the Syrians in the Desart of Macharius. The Staff of St. Ephrem.
• * 1.513

  Bahr el Ma∣lame.
• * 1.514

  The Moun∣tain of Eagles Stones. Dgebel el Masque.
• * 1.515

  Dir el Saydet.
• * 1.516

  Birquet el Natroun.
• * 1.517

  Natron.
• * 1.518

  Pyramidal Salt. Melhel Ma∣ctaoum.
• * 1.519

  Aegypt. Masr.
• * 1.520

  The borders of Aegypt.
• * 1.521

  The course of the Nile in Aegypt.
• * 1.522

  The Delta of Aegypt.
• * 1.523

  The breadth of the Nile.
• * 1.524

  An invention for clarifying the water of the Nile.
• * 1.525

  The number of Villages upon the Banks of the Nile.
• * 1.526

  Variole. Crocodiles.
• * 1.527

  How Croco∣diles are ta∣ken.
• * 1.528

  Hippopotamus.
• * 1.529

  Fowling in Aegypt.
• * 1.530

  Trees of Aegypt.
• * 1.531

  Caire. Masr or Misr.
• * 1.532

  The Nations that Inhabit Caire.
• * 1.533

  The manners of the Aegyp¦tians.
• * 1.534

  Dgibn Halum
• * 1.535

  A Moorish Woman that pulls Worms out of Chil∣drens Ears.
• * 1.536

  The Arabick Language.
• * 1.537

  Circumcision of Moorish Girls.
• * 1.538

  Sidi Ahmet el bedoui. Menitegamr.
• * 1.539

  Cophtes.
• * 1.540

  Of the Franks in Caire.
• * 1.541

  Consuls of Franks at Caire.
• * 1.542

  The Consuls expence to∣wards the Basha.
• * 1.543

  An Avanie upon the English Con∣sul.
• * 1.544

  An unlucky business for the Franks in Aegypt.
• * 1.545

  Cowas.
• * 1.546

  Diverse sorts of Avanies.
• * 1.547

  Mehkieme.
• * 1.548

  A Greek Pa∣triarch in A∣lexandria.
• * 1.549

  Ceremonies at the Greeks Mass, on Ho∣ly-Thursday.
• * 1.550

  Jews in Caire.
• * 1.551

  Aegypt the se∣cond Bashaship of the Turk∣ish Empire, and Buda the first.

  The Profits of the Go∣vernour.
• * 1.552

  Hazna in Aegypt.
• * 1.553

  The cause of the Avanies of the Basha of Aegypt.

  Officers of Aegypt.

  Charavalla. The Seraf of the Basha. Seraf Basha. Cadilesquer of Aegypt.
• * 1.554

  Sangiack Beys of Aegypt. Charkish Beys of Aegypt.
• * 1.555

  Beys of Aegypt.
• * 1.556

  Custom-Hou∣ses in Aegypt.
• * 1.557

  Asar Basha. Devedar.
• * 1.558

  Payed Soldi∣ers in Aegypt.
• * 1.559

  Basch Chaousch Alai Chaousch. Koutcbu Chaousch. Chorbadgi. Oda Basha.
• * 1.560

  No Moors Janizaries.
• * 1.561

  Punishments in Aegypt.
• * 1.562

  Impaling.
• * 1.563

  Ordinary In∣conveniencies that happen at Caire.

  Heat in Egypt. Drink in Egypt.
• * 1.564

  Arelles.
• * 1.565

  Abou Chamaa.
• * 1.566

  Hhamchin.
• * 1.567

  The Dew or Drop of Egypt.
• * 1.568

  Bleeding in the Head.
• * 1.569

  A Purse.
• * 1.570

  Maidin.
• * 1.571

  Forles. Quintal. Rotte. Quirat. Medical. Oque.
• * 1.572

  Tono.
• * 1.573

  Derout.
• * 1.574

  Foa. Sewdion.
• * 1.575

  Casa Rossa. Media.
• * 1.576

  Hhouames
• * 1.577

  Bouquer.
• * 1.578

  Scopa Coperta.
• * 1.579

  Rasaxarra.
• * 1.580

  Hihal.
• * 1.581

  Linosa.
• * 1.582

  Lampedosa.
• * 1.583

  The meeting of two Ships of Tunis.
• * 1.584

  Cape Bon. Galippa.
• * 1.585

  Kara Bouroun.
• * 1.586

  Zimbre.
• * 1.587

  Porto Farina. Porto Stera. Biserta. Ʋtica.
• * 1.588

  The Sepul∣chre of Dido. Marabout.
• * 1.589

  Goletta.
• * 1.590

  Hamarmulf. Zagouam.
• * 1.591

  Cantre.
• * 1.592

  Magerda.
• * 1.593

  Baths for Slaves at Tunis.
• * 1.594

  Knights of Malta at Tunis
• * 1.595

  The Dey of Tunis abso∣lute.
• * 1.596

  The Grand Signior Basha can do no¦thing at Tunis
• * 1.597

  The establish∣ment of the Dey. The death of the Dey.
• * 1.598

  The Aga of the Customes at Tunis. Gillet.
• * 1.599

  Mezoar.
• * 1.600

  Carthage.
• * 1.601

  Elba.
• * 1.602

  Caprara.
• * 1.603

  The Ancho∣vy Fishing.
• * 1.604

  An Engage∣ment with three Cor∣sairs.
• * 1.605

  Gorgona.