The present state of the Morea, called anciently, Peloponnesus which hath been near two hundred years under the dominion of the Turks, and is now very much depopulated : together with a description of the city of Athens, islands of Zant, Strafades, and Serigo / faithfully described by Bernard Randolph, who resided in those parts from 1671 to 1679.

A Description of the CITY of ATHENS.

IT is the Head City in the Province of Attica, and was once the greatest Mistress of Learning in all Europe. The Plain is about Sixteen Miles Long, and Five Broad, being surrounded with Mountains, all but towards the South, where it is washed by the Egean Sea. The Olive-trees stand so thick to the West of the City that they seem to be a Wood, reaching Six Miles in Length, and Two in Breadth. Whilst I was there, a Tahrirge (or Surveyor) came down from Constantinople to Survey the Place; he found above Fifty Thousand Olive-trees in this Plain, and other places about the City. There are several small Villages, where are very pleasant Gardens, which afford all sort of Fruit and Saleting, having Walks round them covered with Vines, of which there are two sorts; the one is in the Turkish Language called Barmak Ʋzumi, a long White Grape; the other Hevengh Ʋzumi, a round Red Grape, both which growing in very large Bunches. Of the latter Mr. Vernon weighed one Bunch which was near Four Oaks (about Ten Pound English.) These Red Grapes are not ripe till September, then they cut them off, and hang them up in their Houses for Win∣ter store. Neither of these Two sorts grow in Vine∣yards. The Vine-yards are planted most betwixt the City, and the Sea. The City is now not above Three Miles about: Being Four Miles from Porto Lion, (which formerly was call Pirea) having a Castle to the South. The Houses are better built here than in any part of the Morea, most having little Courts, with high Walls,

in which are Arches with Marble Pillars; few Houses above Two Story high: They also patcht up with the Ruines of old Palaces, and in most Walls are abun∣dance of old Inscriptions. The Governors are in the same manner as they be in other Cities under the Turks. The Greeks live much better here than in any other part of Turky, (Scio excepted) being a small Com∣mon-wealth amongst themselves. They choose eight Magistrates, who adjust all differences, and appear in all Publick Matters. Their Protector (at the Port) is the Grand Seigniors Chief Eunuch, who hath the disposing of that Government. The City is not Walled about, but has Gates at the Streets end, which every Night are shut, to keep out Privateers, who often Land and do much mischief. Here is an Arch-Bishop whose House stands to the South West of the Town, near unto the Mount Ariopagus: He lives in great esteem amongst them. Below his Palace towards the North, stands intire the Temple of Theseus, which is a fair and large Building, all of White Marble, having a Portico about it with Pillars. The Temple is Seventy Three Foot long, and Twenty Six in Breadth: The Length of the Portico (which goes round it,) is One Hundred Twenty Three Foot: It is now a Greek Church, and Dedicated to St. George. To the South East part of the Castle are Seventeen Marble Pillars, being the re∣mainder of One Hundred and Twenty, on which the Emperor Adrian had his Palace: And upon some of the Pillars which stand towards the East, is to be seen part of the Foundation. These Pillars are of a pure White Marble, with blewish Waves, Schollop-work, being Fifty Foot in heighth, and Nineteen and a half round. The Ground is very even about them, which they say was formerly Paved with Marble. Close to these Pillars Eastward, is a square Piece of Ground, which is Walled in with a low Wall, being Green: It is

kept very smooth and free of Stones; at the South End close to the Wall, is a place (raised with Two Steps) about Two Foot high, almost in Form of a Throne. In the time of their Byram, the Turks come to this place, where their Emam or Priest (sitting on the raised place) Preacheth to them, shewing them the Vanity of the World, the Greatness of their Em∣perour, and the Valour of the Ottoman Forces, conclu∣ding with a Prayer for the Grand Seignior, which is answered with Three Shouts from the Auditors, with a loud Voice crying, Amen.

The Castle stands on a Rock, which is high and steep, having but one way up, and three Gates to pass through into the Body of it: The Walls are much out of re∣pair. The Scituation makes it strong. This Castle stood almost in the middle of Old Athens: The Place most worth Observation in it, is the Temple of Mi∣nerva, which remains entire, being esteemed (by all who have seen it) to be one of the Most Glorious Buildings in Europe. It is all pure White Marble: The Length of the Body of the Temple is One Hundred Sixty Eight English Feet, and the Breadth Seventy One: There are Seventeen Pillars at each Side, and Eight at the Front: The Circuit of the Pillars are Nineteen Foot and a Half: The Length of the whole Temple Two Hundred and Thirty Feet. The Temple is very dark, having only some Lights to the Eastward. The Greeks did Consecrate, and Dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin. Since that, the Turks have perverted it with their Worship. The Turks have White-wash'd the Inside, notwithstanding it is all of pure Marble. In and about Athens, are Two Hundred Greek Churches, (most of which have been Temples) but not one quar∣ter of them are now used. In the Plain and on most of the Hills, there are many small Chappels. The Ruines are above Six Miles about, of which the Reader

may have full satisfaction by reading the Travels of Sir George Wheeler, who hath given a large and true Account of this City. Some Geographers call it Set∣tines, which name was never known to the Inhabi∣tants; the Turks call it Atinna, and the Greeks Athine. The Air is very good. The Soyl rich. It hath a River to the South, close by the Ruines of Adrians Palace, called Illisus or Calleroy; which is almost choaked up, and in Summer is dry. The Harbour of Porto Lione is very secure from the danger of any Wind, but there is no Fortification, so that it is frequented by Pyrats. In all the Villages and Country about Athens, the In∣habitants are most Albaneses; and they are here more populous than in the Morea. It affords the same Com∣modities: and all Provision is as reasonable, but their Wines in general are not so good.