The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK VIII.

Containing how to make several sorts of Puddings.

How to make a Quaking Pudding.

TAke a pinte of Cream, and a manchet grated: take three or four spoonfuls of the Cream, and mingle it with two spoonfulls of Rice flower, beat it into a batter so it doth not clod, put it into the aforesaid Cream, then beat six eggs, mix them all together, and beat them very well with a little Rose water, Nutmegg, Cloves, Mace, and Cinamon beaten, with a little salt; if it be too thick, you may add a little more Cream, then take a thick cloth washt over with butter; spread it over a narrow Bason, your Pudding being well beaten together, put it in gather up your Cloth close together, tying it hard with a pack∣thred, giving it some liberty to rise: your liquor boyling very hard, take up your pudding in your hands, and turn∣ing it up and down, so that your bread and cream be mingled very well, then put it into your boyling Liquor; let it boyl for three quarters of an hour covered close, keep it constantly turning for the first quarter, but it must boyl fiercely, lest it soak water; when its enough take it up, open it and turn it forth into a dish; stick it all over with blancht Dates, and dried Cittern, all over; perfume a little Rose water with musk, with some Vi∣negar, drawn butter, and a good quantity of sugar; when its very hot, pour it on your pudding, scrape hard sugar on the brims of your dish, and send it up.

Another way.

TAke a light Manchet, slice it exceeding thin, put it into a Quart of Cream, then put it over the fire, and let it boyl with a stick or two of Cinamon; you may pour into it before it boyles, two spoonfulls of flower beat into a

batter, and keep it stirred, then pour it forth into a ba∣son, put to it a grated Nutmegg, a little Cinamon and Ginger, some Orangado, and dryed Cittern, cut very thin; when this is cold, put to it half a dozen eggs beaten, with some rosewater, and mix them all together; if it be too thick you may add more cream, so that it may become a quaking pudding when it is boyled (as the aforesaid.)

To make a dish of Puddings of several Colours.

TO this end you must have five or six dishes bespoke on purpose of the Turner with Covers to fit them; you must butter over all your dishes in the Inside; fill one of them with the Ingredients aforesaid, put on the Cover, and bind it down with a Cloth prepared for the same pur∣pose, and packthred: take a quantity more of the said stuff, that will fill a dish, Colour it with Spinnage: if you think it will thin it too much, add part of an egg to it, and beat it together: Put on the Cover, and bind it up so that no water may run in, then take a handfull of Cowslips, a handfull of Violets, a handfull of Clove Gil∣ly flowers: mince each of these by themselves, and beat them severally in a Morter: so add as much of the afore∣said stuff to each as will fill three several dishes, you may thin them as you please, by mixing more Cream to either of them, so bind them up as aforesaid, and when your pot boyles very fiercely, shake your dishes: that the mat∣ter may mingle together, and put them in: When they are boyled, uncover your Dishes, turn out your puddings into a large dish: Stick them as before: Else with any Rich Suckets: your Leare, is Butter, Vinegar, Rose water and good store of Sugar; scrape on Sugar, and send them up: they are an exceeding handsome, and Rich service, fitting for any feast: you may make but one or more of the above four sorts of puddings, as you please.

To make Marrow Puddings to boyl in Skins.

TAke a pottle of Cream, two rowls of French bread, sliced very thin, being cut over again the contrary way. you may put it over the fire a soaking with a little whole Cina∣mon,

till it begins to boyl, then beat a dozen of eggs to∣gether: and when your Cream is almost cold, beat them in, put to them the Marrow of five Marrowbones minced, with some minced Orangado, and Cittern, beaten Cina∣mon, Ginger, Cloves and Mace, Rosewater and Sugar, with some salt: you may thin it with cream, if your Manchet swells too much: (for it must be but a little thicker then Pan-cake batter) then having your hoggs guts th•• smal∣lest of the great ones, being well scoured, and cleans••d, fill up your guts and tye them up like beads▪ being about the bigness and length of an egg (or something longer) you must give two Inches scope to every one of these in the tying, else they will break, not having room to rise: boyl them very softly in Kettle, for the space of above half an hour, then take them up and keep them for your use, and heat them for service for pleasure.

To make Black Puddings to be kept.

TAke a gallon of great Oatmeal, and put to it two gallons of very good strong broth, let it boyl soft∣ly over the fire about half an hour, keeping it continually stirred, then put it out into a great earthen pan; let it be cold, and put to it about a gallon of hogs blood strained; mix it together with the congealed Oatmeal; if it makes it not thin enough, add to it a quart of milk or more, let it steep together all night; then take a good handful of Wintersavory, as much Pennyroyal, a little Hysso••, and Rose∣mary, half a handfull of Time, a handfull of Sives: if not, take Onions or Leeks, and a handfull of Sage, mince all these exceeding small, and put them into your puddings: season it with Pepper beaten small, Cloves, Mace Ginger, Cinamon, and Nutmegs, with a quantity of Salt; then having about two flecks of Lard cut with your knife, twice as big as a die, put all in together, with about sixteen Eggs, mingle it all well with your hands: if it be thick and not high-coloured with blood, add more to it, your small guts of a hogg being cleansed and watered for a day before; cut your gutts an ell and half long, and blow them up all, to see where they are sound, then fill a taste of these puddings, and observe what scope you give to your

taste that you may know how they swell, as also to know what they want in their seasoning, softness or hardness; for they ought not to have so much blood in them to con∣geale them hard; and according to this Tryal, you may order the rest; so fill up your lengths, and tye them up in six links, or but four if you please; you must allow at least three inches scope in each link; let your water boyl very sober, and when they have boyled half an hour, take them forth, and put others in; then afterwards put them in for half an hour again: as you fill your Puddings, you must supply your Pan still with Hogs suet, and order your hand in the filling, that the ingredients may all carry a due proportion; these Puddings, with some white Puddings made with Beef suet, after the manner of the little ones, (but of a span length) will be a very good service for a common diet, especially at night; you may add to your white Puddings a pretty quantity of flower, with your grated bread, but then you must put in the fewer eggs, but the more Beef suet minced exceeding small.

To make Polony Sassages to keep all the year.

YOu may take a piece of a Gammon of red Bacon, and half boyl it, mince it very small: if your Gam∣mon be not fat, take half as much bacon lard, mince it likewise: mingle them together, and beat them in a Morter: season them with Time and Sage minced very small, and good store of Pepper beaten to dust, with a little Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg, and a pretty quantity of Salt, for they ought so to be; add to them the yolks of two eggs, and so much Red wine as will bring them up into a stiff body; mingle them well with your hands, fill them into middle skins, as big as four of your ordinary Sassages, so hang them in your Chimney for a time, and when you will use them, they must be cut out very thin round wayes, and put them in your dish with Oyl and Vinegar, and serve them for a Sallet for the second course, or for a Collation before you drink.

Another way for Sassages.

TAke Pork, not as much fat as lean, mince it exceeding small together, then take part of the fleck of Pork in pieces about the bigness of the top of your finger, season each apart with minced Sage, good store of Pepper and Salt, some Cloves and Mace, mix in your seasoning into each of these; take your small sheeps guts and cleanse them, so fill them with your funnel, alwayes putting some of the pieces of fleck between the minced; you may sprinkle a little wine on the top of your Sassage meat, it will fill the better. I have made rich Sassages of Capons and Rab∣bits, and could shew a receipt for it; but none so savoury as those of Pork, by reason that Sage and Pepper is not so suitable to the nature of the other; so tye up your Sassages in links, and keep them for your use.

To make a Pudding of Hogs-Liver.

BOyl your Hogs-Liver and grate it; put to it more grated bread then Liver, with as much fine flower as of either; put twelve eggs to the value of a gallon of this mixture, with about two pound of Beef-suet minced small, with a pound and half of Currans, half a quarter of a pinte of Rose-water, a good quantity of Cloves and Mace, Nut∣meg, Cinamon and Ginger, all beaten, and as much Salt as it requires, with some Winter-savoury, Penniroyal, Sweet Margerum and Time, all minced very small: mix all these with sweet Milk or Cream; let it be no thicker then Fritter Batter, so fill your Hogs gutts; you may make one for the Table in the maw, to be eaten hot: in your knitting up the guts, you must remember to give them three or four inches scope: in your putting them into your boyling water, you must handle them round, to bring the meat equal to all parts of the gutt: they will ask above an hours boyling: the boyling must be sober; if the wind rise in them, you must observe to prick them.

To make a baked Marrow Pudding.

SEt a quart of Cream a boyling, with Cinamon, and large Mace: take eight eggs, casting away the whites of four, beat them well together, with a little more Cream, or Milk: when your Cream boyls, take it off the fire, and stir in your eggs, let it not be too hot lest it curdle, season it with Rose-water, Sugar, and grated Nutmeg: your dish being ready, with a garnish of Paste about the brims, cover the bottom of your dish with thin sippets of light bread, lay raw Marrow thereon all over, also Dates and Raisons, with Orangado and other suckets: then put in a ladleful or two of your Cream boyled up, and lay on the top of that a laying of sippets, put also a laying of Marrow and suckets (as before) on the top of that; then pour in your Cream again; if your dish be deep enough, you may go three stories high; fill it not too full till it comes in the Oven, lest it spill over, it will not ask half an hours baking; you may garnish it if you please with Lozenges, or other∣wise.

To make an Oatmeal Pudding.

TAke two handfuls of great Oatmeale, and beat it ex∣ceeding small in a Morter, set on three pintes of Milk in a skillet, put into it two or three sticks of Cinamon, and large Mace, stir in this Oatmeal into your Milk be∣fore it is hot, so much as will make it reasonable thick, fit to be eaten; boyl it for the space of half an hour, but keep it stirring; put therein a good handful of Beef suet shred small; then take it off the fire, and put it in an earthen Pan, and let it stand until it is almost cold; if it grows thick, thin it with a little more Milk; beat in four eggs, with almost a handful of Sugar, a grated Nurmeg, and some Rose-water; butter the bottom of your dish, and pour in your Pudding, for it ought to be as thin as batter; bake it softly; it will ask but half an hours time; so scrape on Sugar, and send it up.

To make a Pudding of Rice flower.

THicken three pintes of Milk, with about a handful of Rice flower beaten into a batter, put in Cinamon and large Mace in the boyling; keep it continually stirred till it be thick, put into it a piece of butter, let it boyl a quar∣ter of an hour, then put it in an earthen Pan, and let it be cold; add to it two handfuls of Currans a little Sugar, beaten Cinamon, and a handful of Dates minced, beat half a dozen eggs, (casting forth three whites) beat them to∣gether, put butter in the bottom of your dish, and pour in your Pudding; you must add Salt, and all things else in this nature, according to your discretion; you ought to have a garnish of Paste on the brims of your dish; when it is baked, scrape on Sugar, and serve it up, adding a little Rose-water.

To make a hastie Pudding.

SEt on three pintes of Cream, two grated Manchets or French rolles sliced thin and minced, put to this a grated Nutmeg, a little Cloves, Mace, Cinamon and Ginger beaten; add thereto half a handful of flower, mingle it together, and stir it into your milk; when it boyls, throw in a piece of Butter; then having four or five eggs beaten, with the whites of half cast away, put them also into your Pudding, with a handful of Sugar, and a little Rose-water, stir them together again, till they begin to boyl and thicken, then put it out into your dish you serve it up in, set it on a heap of coals, put a fire-shovell to be red hot in the fire, then hold it close to your Pudding untill it is brown on the top, so scrape on Sugar and send it up.

To make Andolians.

TAke the great guts of a Hog, let them be clean scoured and shifted in several waters, for four and twenty hours together, then take a handful of very good sweet herbs and Parslee, with a piece of Beef-suet, mince it together very small, and put to it a good quantity of Cloves, Mace, Ginger, a little Pepper, Salt and beaten Nutmeg; add to it a handful of grated bread, mingle it altogether; then cleanse and stroke your gutts from the water and slime, through a cloth very clean, and season the fat side of them with your aforesaid ingredients; so pull one length over another, your least underneath, and your greatest on the outside; you may put five or six lengths over one ano∣ther; but for the more sure way, for after-service, you ought to wash every length over with eggs, and then season it, before you pull over the other length; when you have done all, bind them up at both ends, and boyl them softly until they are enough, then sowce them: When you use them, you may cut them in slices, and fry them, so serve them up with Mustard; but if you think they will be better, you may dip them in the yolks of eggs, and so fry them.