The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK VI.

Containing strong Broths, and Pottages, with other prepara∣tions of Cookery.

To make Strong Broth for your use in dressing of meat.

TAke a leg of Veal, or other knuckles of Mutton and Veal, being well soaked in divers waters, and the blood dryed clean out: put it a boyling in fair Running-water: keep it scumming during the boyling: when it is almost boyled, you may add a faggot of sweet herbs, large Mace, and a little Salt: your meat may be used for ser∣vice, but preserve your Broth in a Pipkin.

An excellent Cordial Broth.

TAke a Cock or two, cut off their wings and legs: cleanse all the blood out of the inside, parboyle them very well, that when they are boyled, there may arise no more scum: then wash them again in fair water, put them in a pitcher with a pinte of Rhenish wine, and as much of your aforesaid strong Broth as will cover them, add thereto a few Cloves, large Mace, sliced Ginger and Nutmeg, a little whole white Pepper, if desired, with a small quantity of Chainie, and an onnce or two of Harts-horn; put in a little Salt, and stop up your pitcher close, that no steam may come forth: then having a Pot over the fire, let your Pitcher boyl therein about six hours, then pour out your Broth through a strainer, into a bason and scruise in the juice of two or three Lemmons: this may be heated as you have occasion. It is not only Cordial, but good against a Consumption also.

To make a Pottage of broth, to serve up with a Bisk, or grand boyled meat.

WHen you boyl up your Fowl, or other meat for that purpose, you may use the strong Broth (before cited) and boyl as much meat therein, as you have when it is at the full strength; take a quart the••eof; add a pinte of gravie drawn with wine, half a dozen of Anchovies, two or three whole Onions a quarter of a pinte of Oyster liquor, one handful of Raspine of your French Bread, the juice

of two or three Lemmons; the yolks of a couple of eggs beaten into it, when you are ready to use it, with a sliced Nutmeg; so draw it up all together; this is a Pottage or Broth fitting for savoury boyled meats; if you please, you may use some herbs in the said Broth, for some of your boyled meats; as Spinnage, Sorrel. Endiff, Lettice, Purslin, or the like; however forget not some faggots of sweet herbs in the boyling of it up: This is a rich Broth, with a very high hogo.

Another way.

TAke a quart of strong Broth, put to it four whole Onions, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, some large Mace, a handful of Goosberries, with Lettice and Endiff hackt, the yolks of two eggs beaten in half a pinte of white-wine, two Lemmons, cut dice wayes; when your Broth is boyled with your herbs, put in your eggs and wine, adding to it a sliced Nutmeg; so draw it up till it boyls; then cast in a ladleful of drawn butter; if it should be too thick, you may add any quantity of Broth you please to it; this is a savoury sharp Broth, and may be served up with Veal, or Mutton, or what Fowl you please. But let not your Goosberries be boyled too much, for fear they turn to mash.

To make a Broth or Pottage, called Skinck.

TAke a leg, or legs of Beef, according to the quantity of broth you would have; cut off the meat in pieces bigger then an egg; break the bone in pieces, let them lye a soaking in water, washing and cleansing it clean from the blood; put it in your Pot, and a little more then cover it with water; set it over the fire, watch the boyling and scumming thereof; then put a quantity of Pepper tyed up in a rag or cloth, and when it is above half boyled, add four whole Onions, a little Cloves and Mace whole, a Race or two of Ginger sliced; take forth a ladleful thereof, and steep a ragg full of Saffron in it, bruise it with the handle of your knife, until you have coloured it, or the vertue of the Saffron gone; then put in the ladleful of Broth again, and let it boyl until your meat be exceeding tender, or to the consuming of half your Broth; season it with salt to your pallate, and dish it up on sippets of French bread, with some of the meat in the middle of the dish; this is the Skinck; but you may alter it; sometimes by putting a handful or two of chopt clove-Cabbage; otherwise by bruised Spinnage and Endiff cut; your herbs in this case must not be shred small; you may add sliced Manchet to it

which way you please. If you put in any of these, they must boyl out their time, which is about half an hour, otherwise they will lose their colour.

To make white Broth.

TAke a pinte or a quart of white-wine, put it on the fire in a Pipkin, with three or four quartered Pippins, being pared, eight Dates cut in halves, a faggot of sweet herbs, large Mace, whole Cinamon, a quartered Nutmeg; let them all boyl together; (if you want liquor, add a pinte of strong Broth) take the Marrow of three Marrow-bones, put it also in (when your aforesaid Broth boyls) but if you please, wrap it up in the yolks of eggs, and a little grated bread, lest it melt away; then take the yolks of four eggs well beaten with wine, or strong Broth; (your Broth and ingredi∣ents being boyled) stir it therein; so season it to your pallate with white Sugar, and take it off the fire; some add a pinte of Cream to the eggs, but there is great danger therein, that it turns when the wine and Cream comes together; let both of them be boyled first, and almost cold before you compound them together; then you may set them on, and heat it again, by a continual stirring of them toge∣ther; this Broth you may serve up with boyled Capons or Chickens; garnish the Marrow and Dates upon the breast; you may if you please use Spanish Potatoes boyled and sliced, or skirrets in this Broth; but for dishing and sending away your meat, you may see further in the Book of boyled meats.

To make Stewed-Broth.

TAke your shins of Beef or Mutton, otherwise what meat is allow∣ed, being washed and set on, scum it clean; then slice your brown bread, and soak it in the said Broth; when it is so soaked, rub it through a strainer with your hands, put in as much as you judge will make your Broth thick in the boyling; when it is half boyled, add thereto your Raisons, Currans and Pruins, according to the quantity of your Broth, with beaten Cloves, Mace, Cinamon and Ginger; taking a good quantity of your Pruins up when they are boyled, mash them together, and strain them as you did the bread with Clarret; so let it continue till its boyled, then season it further with Sugar and Rose-water, and serve it up with some of the best of your meat.

Another, a Consumption Broth.

TAke the Broth that certain pieces of Marrow-bones have been boyled in, which you may have for nothing at any Feast; boyl therein a great quantity of great Turnips: when they are boyled, press out all the liquor out of them, and put it again into the pot: then take two red old Cocks, scalded, beaten to pieces with the back of a Cleaver: then put them into the said Broth with a pair of Calves-feet; let them boyl together, being well scummed: when they are half-boyled, put in some Raisons of the Sun stoned, sliced Lickerish, a few Anniseeds, with a handful of Pine-apples and Pistatious beaten in a Morter: then put in Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, adding to it a pinte of red wine: when this meat is boyled all to pieces, strain it forth into your Bason or Pipkin: then put to it white Sugar-candy: and you may clarifie it too with the whites of eggs when you boyl it again (if your mind be to have it clear) and so run it through your jelly-bags: you may take this Morning, Evening or Noon (the Dose being a quarter of a pinte.)

To make Red Pottage.

TAke a hanch of Venison, cut him in five or six pieces, and place them in the botom of a pot or pan: then do more then cover it with fair water; after it boyls, and is scummed, add to it a good quantity of whole Pepper, and when it is half enough, put in four whole Onions, Cloves and large Mace, of each a little, sliced Gin∣ger and Nutmeg, three or four faggots of sweet herbs, (with good store of Time in the faggots) let it boyl together until the Venison he very tender, and a good part of the Broth consumed: so done, pour out the Broth from the meat into another Pipkin; keep your Venison hot in the same Pot, either by being covered, or adding other hot Broth: then take a couple of great red Beet-roots, being above half boyled before, cut them in square pieces, three times so big as Dice, and put them into your Broth taken from the Venison; then set it over the fire again, and let it remain there until the roots are boyl∣ed tender, but not masht to pieces; only add more in the boyling four Anchovies minced, then dish up your Venison on sippets of light bread, in order as it was in the hanch: then pour in your Broth, so much as will almost fill the dish: then take your roots by themselves, and toss them in a little drawn Butter, and lay them all over the Venison: you may make use of boyled Colly flowers, to garnish it out further if you please. Let your red Broth be seen round about the

dish sides: if the Beet be good, it will be red enough: if not, you ought to colour it with Sanders: this is savoury red Pottage, and to be esteemed above the Venison.

I have explained this here for the Broths sake rather then for the boyled-meats: in that Book I shall also speak of more variety of Broths.

Another Broth.

TAke a pottle of strong Broth, infuse twelve sliced Onions therein▪ this Broth may you use to make any of your sauces for wild-fowl, and to draw gravie out of your meat: you may add to it a piece of Lemmon-pill, and a faggot of sweet herbs.

How to draw gravie.

WHen your meat is above half roasted, put underneath thereof a dish with a good quantity of the Onion Broth (before cited) then you may stab and cut your meat, when you think the gravie will run best: so lade on your Broth on the meat, to draw down the gravie: and likewise White-wine or Clarret, if you have it: when your gravie meat is roasted enough, cut it off, and press it, that you may lose none of the gravie thereof: so preserve this gravie in your Pipkin, adding half a dozen of Anchovies, with a little Nutmeg to each quart or three pintes of gravie; you may also put some Oyster-liquor therein: this will be called for in your Feasts, to use for sauce for much of your meat, especially your Range.

How to draw Butter.

TAke a quarter of a pinte of strong Broth, and put it into a Pan or Pipkin: break in two pound of butter, set it upon a heap of coals, keeping of it drawing or stirring with a Ladle; then break in two pound more, or as many as you have occasion for, so you add liquor proportionable to it; still keep it drawing up to the end, till it be dissolved: when it looks white, thick and smooth it is in a good condition, and you need not fear the oyling of it: but if it looks yellow and curdled, you will hardly recover it, but it will oyl.

How to Recover it.

TAke a ladleful of strong Broth, put it on the fire in another Pipkin, then put to it half a pound of Butter in pieces, and when it is drawn white, you must pour in your oylie Butter; and as you pour it, be sure to keep it alwayes stirring together; see that the oylie Butter overcomes not the drawn Butter, by putting it in too fast: but in case you have no Butter in the house, yet there is a way to fetch the oylie Butter again; let it settle in a cold thing for a pretty while, then pour forth the most oylie of it, leaving the dreggs and whey be∣hind, add a little strong Broth to the said dreggs, and put it on a hot heap of coals, and ladle it up until it become like to drawn Butter in a body; then take it off the fire, still keeping it drawing and stirring; in the mean time, pour in the oylie Butter very softly; so set it on the fire and draw it, and when it becomes strong, take it off and pour in your oyl again, so that the lesser may comprehend the greater, and draw it all into a body again.

How to make Barley Broth.

TAke a knuckle of Veal, and a neck of Mutton, cut your Mutton in pieces, put them in a Pot with asmuch water as will contain to boyl them; then take a quarter of a pound of French Barley, having had two or three walms before, in two or three several waters; so put it out of your Cullender; and put it into your meat, scum your Broth well when it boyls; put in two or three great Onions, two or three faggots of sweet herbs and Parslee, almost one pound of Raisons of the Sun, some whole Cloves, large Mace, two races of Ginger, a piece of Lemmon-pill; season it with salt, and let it boyl soberly until it be enough; so serve up your meat with Raisons and Barley on the top of it, and garnish your dish with Raisons; But if you please to have it with herbs, you may add Endiff and Spinnage hacked with a knife, and put it in a quarter of an hour before it be enough, or in the Summer, you may use Lettice, Purslin, or any other good herbs.