The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK III.

To Sowce, Pickle, or Marble Fish.

To Coller Eeles.

TAke your greatest Eele, and cover it well with salt, split it down the back close to the bone, then cut out the bone, as bare as you can, wash them and dry them well, and lay them upon a dresser∣board strowed with salt, that he may not slip when you go to Coller him, then take a handful of minced Oysters, with a little Time, sweet-Margerom, Winter savory, one Onion minced small, then some Nut∣megs, Cloves and Mace beaten small; all this being mingled, strow it on the inside of your Eeles; the salt that lyes on the slippery side of the Eele, will be enough to season it; if not, add some more there∣unto, so roul them up close, and bind them with Tape, boyl them in fair water and salt, with a little Vinegar, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, and two or three whole Onions, and sliced Ginger, let that be your pickle; then at your pleasure, you may serve them up to the Table, garnish them with Fennel and flowers, as you see good.

To Sowce a Tench, to be served in jelly.

TAke a Tench, and split him down the back, only cut off the head whole, when you have washed them clean from the blood, boyl them up with white-wine, water, Vinegar and salt, with large Mace, sliced Ginger, Nutmegs, slices of Lemmon, so let them boyl in no more liquor then will cover them, and keep them down under liquor with a dish or plate; when he is boyled, take him up with your scum∣mer, and lay him in the dish that you intend to send him up in; then take all the chine bones from the back, and stick them on the fish, and take a quantity of the said liquor, and put it on the fire again; and in case it will not jelly by the strength of the fish, then boyl a piece of Izenglass, till you find it comes to a jelly; so let it stand till it is almost cold, that it will but run, then pour it over your fish into the dish, you may keep some to beat; for the garnishing of your dish, you may mince Sives and Taragon together, and strow the brims of your dish with your fish, if you please, when you send it up; after the same manner you may use for Turbert, Breme, or Perch, or any other fish that you have a desire to serve up in jelly.

To pickle Smelts white or red.

TAke your large Smelts, and being geld, lay them in a pan, on them a row of Lemmons, slice Ginger, Nutmeg, large Mace and whole Pepper, then a row of Smelts, so continue till they are placed, then put to them white-wine Vinegar, and salt, and bay-leaves a top; but if you would pickle them Red, your pickle must be Red wine, well mingled with cutchenele, they will be ready in a week after they are pickled; part them in halves, as you do Anchoves, and dish them up; strow upon them Lemmon cut square like dice, with Broom-buds and Barberries, so pour it upon them; garnish them with sliced Lemmon, and serve them up.

To Marble Sowls, Plaice, Flounders, Smelts, or any other fish that is fitting to Marble.

FIll your Frying-pan with sweet sallet-oyl, and when it is very hot, your fish being dryed and flowered, put them into the said pan; when they are fryed brown and stiff, put them into a large earthen pan, put thereto sliced Nutmeg, large Mace, and whole Pepper, and two or three sliced Lemmons; when you have done frying of all your fish, fry a quantity of Bay-leaves, and put them in a top of your

fish, then put to it so much white-wine, and a little Vinegar, as will cover the fish, strow a little salt in it, so dish them up for second course, when you have occasion.

To pickle Lobsters, and to preserve them.

IN case you are afraid your Lobsters will miscarry after they are boyled, and that they will keep no longer, then take Fennel and bruise it in Vinegar, add salt thereto, and with a branch or two of Fennel, wash them between the carkaise and the tail, leave your branched Fennel under the tail, and set them down in a cold place, or a moister with salt; but if you will be at so much charge, you may preserve them in the said pickle; however you may preserve the meat for your use, the tail and claws being broke, in the pickle afore∣said, and use them as a sallet. Thus must you preserve your Pranes, or Shrimps, or Crafish.

To pickle a Conger-Eele.

YOu must scald your Eele, and scrape it till the outward skin is scraped off, then boyl your Eele, being cut in pieces, and bound with Tape, in water, salt, and Vinegar, and an handful of green Fennel, and when it is boyled, put it into your Sowsing-pan, with some of the same liquor and Beer-Vinegar, with an handful of Fennel on the top of the fish, so serve it up cold to the Table.

To Pickle and Sowce Sturgeon.

OPen your Sturgeon and take out the entrails; if it be a female, take out the spawn thereof, and preserve it to make caveere, then cut out your Sturgeon in lengths, being split equally through the back, first cut off your Joul to the body ward, then your first and second Ronde very fair, so that the tayl may be the least, so that you will have eight pieces in your Sturgeon; bind it up very close with braces or tape, strow good store of salt thereon; your liquor boyling very hard, put it in, then let it boyl for an hour and an half softly, take it up carefully without breaking, and let it cool, then put it into your Caggs or Barrel; let your pickle be half white-wine, half stale-Beer with two or three handfuls of salt, so put it to your Sturgeon afore∣said, then hoop up your Barrel, and keep it close, so that you may take off the head at your ease, which you must do ever now and then, and supply with liquor, alwayes scumming away the oyl; otherwise your Sturgeon will be rusty.

To pickle Caveer.

WAsh it with Vinegar, season it with salt, then press it two or three dayes, so that all the liquor or excrements may run away from it, then take it again forth, and mix it together with a quantity of Pepper beaten small to dust, and salt as before, then put it into your press again; let it stand two or three dayes, then taste it if it be season∣ed high enough; if not, you must do so the third time; then take it and put it into an earthen Pot, and strow on salt on the top of it; when you make any use to serve up any of it, take out a quantity thereof, and wash it with Vinegar, and with your knife separate your Caveer from the strings, and bring it into small certain parcells, as big as a sprat; dish it up in your dish round about, and in the middle put slices of Lemmon between, pour on oyl and Vinegar, and garnish it with Lemmons and Barberries.

To Coller Sowls.

TAke out the bone of the Sowl from the head to the tail, in the white side of him; you must only scale the Sowl, and not strip him, then take a little piece of Salmon, a handful of set-Oysters, the tail of a Lobster, Pranes or Shrimps; mince all this together with the yolks of half a dozen eggs, boyled hard, with half a dozen of Anchovies, then take a handful of sweet herbs, minced very small, put them all together, make them up into a body with your yolks of eggs, and grated bread, season them with Nutmegs, Cloves, Mace, Ginger and a little salt: This same forced meat will serve for most fish: Your Sowl, as aforesaid, being washed and dryed, and washed over with a few yolks of eggs, spread part of the forced meat all over the Sowls, then wash it over with eggs again, and dip your Oysters in the yolks of eggs, with Pranes, Shrimps, or sliced Lobster, and stick upon the forced meat, sprinkling some salt, and more spices, if occasion shall require, then roul up your Sowl in Coller, and bind him hard with Tape; you may force as many as you please, and boyl them in water, wine, vinegar and salt, and seasoned with whole spice, with a faggot or two of sweet herbs; let your liquor boyl before you put in your Coller, pickle them in the same; when they are boyl∣ed, if you serve them up, you may cut them in the middle, and then the middle of your Sowl stands upwards in the dish.

To Coller Salmon.

TAke a side of Salmon, you may cut off a handful of the tail, it being dry and washed; wash it over with the yolks of eggs, strow on a good handful of sweet herbs, with a little Fennel, season it with a pretty store of salt, and a good quantity of your aforesaid spice, adding a little Pepper thereto, bind it up in Collers with your broad Tape; let your water, vinegar and salt boyl together, then put in your said Coller with a faggot of sweet herbs, with sliced Ginger and Nutmeg; it will ask an hour and halfs boyling, if it be a great Col∣ler; so put it into your Sowce-pan with your liquor, until you go to dishing of your cold-meats.

To Sowce Lumps.

SOme flea your Lumps before they boyl them, but that is not proper for any Sowced fish, to be served in cold; you must only scald and scrape him with your knife, then boyl him up as the aforesaid fish, and serve him to the Table; you may serve him with jelly, as you were shewn before.

After the same manner of boyling fish, or pickling, you may do M••llets, Dace, Gurnets, Pikes, Carps, Perches, Tenchs, Roches, and many other sorts of fish, in the nature of this.