The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK II.

How to Sowce, Pickle and Coller all manner of Flesh.

To Coller and Sowce Brawn.

YOur Bawn being scalded and boned, of each side you may make three handsom Collers, the neck Coller, the sheald Coller, and so the side or flank Coller; if your Brawn be very fat, you may make also the gammon Coller behind; otherwise boyl it and Sowce it; this being watered two dayes, shifted three or four times a day and still kept scraped, then wash it out, and scrouse out the blood, and dry it with clothes; when it is very dry, sprinkle on salt; so begin at the belly, and wind it up into Collers; but in case you can, stoe more flesh in the flank, or in the Coller; you may cut it out of other places

where there is too much, or from the Gammon; this being bound up, as you will bind up a trunk, with all the strength that can be obtain∣ed, put it in your Furnace or Copper; when it boyls, scum it; you must be careful it be kept full of liquor, and continually scummed, for the space of six hours, then try it with a wheat-straw if it be very tender, cool your Boyler by taking away your fire, and filling of it constantly with cold water; so shall your Brawn be white; but if it stands, or settles in its liquor, it will be black; then take up your Brawn, and set it up on one end, on a board; your Sowce-drink ought to be beer brewed on purpose; but if it be of the house beer, then boyl a pan of water, throw therein a peck of wheaten bran, and let it boyl, strain it through a hair sieve, and throw in two handfuls of salt, so mix it with your beer aforesaid, and Sowce your Brawn therein; you may take half a peck of white flower of Oatmeal, and mix it with some liquor, and run it through your hair sieve, and it will cause your Sowce to be white: Milk and Whey is used in this case; but your Milk will not keep so long; you may put both, in the boyling thereof; it will cause it to boyl white; keep your Sowced Brawn close covered, and when it begins to be sour, you may renew it at your pleasure, with adding of fresh liquor.

To Coller Venison.

TAke your Venison and cut it fit to be Collered, or to put into your Pot, it being something deep, and slender, so that you may make about three Collers of a large side, or hanch; season your Venison (being larded before) with Pepper, a little Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and as much salt as will turn your spices grayish; then roul up your Collers, put them into your Pot, put butter thereunto, so cover over your Pot with some course paste made a purpose; this will ask four or five hours baking; draw them out of the Oven, and let them stand until they are cold, then may you take off your lid, and take out your Venison whole, pour away your gravie, and make clean your Pot, put a little clarified butter in the bottom thereof, then put your Coller in again, and fill it up with Clarified butter, so put on your lid, with a sheet of brown papertyed over it; this way shall you keep Venison a twelvemoneth. In a great feast you may break three of your Pots to pieces, then take out your Venison whole, being con∣gealed, rowed with butter, set your three Collers upon a great dish, and plate; then stick all your butter round about with bay-leaves, and a branch of bayes on the top of each Coller; in your Common dyet one is enough for a dish, but you must break your Pot, otherwise your butter will not come forth whole with it; you must also dip your

Pot in hot water to loosen your butter from the sides. This is as rich and honourable a second-course dish, as your Brawn is for the first: you may also if you please, slice it out of your pots at your pleasure: The same way may you do with Venison baked in Rye-dough; that is, Take out all your Venison when it is baked, scrape out all your gravie and jelly out of your bottom and sides of your pie, pour in clarified butter, place in your Venison again, and cover it overwith clarified butter, then put on your lid in its place; it will congeal to the clarified butter, that none can tell that ever it was cut; but you must remember to lard all this Venison, before you Coller it, or put it in your baked meat.

To Coller Beef Red.

TAke a good flank of Beef, and cut out a Coller three quarters of a yard long, and almost half a yard broad; then take a small quantity of Cutchenele prepared, and a little Allum: put this into the value of a pint of Red Wine, then season your Beef with Salt-peter Salt, and put it into a Boul or Tray, with your aforesaid wine, mix it all well together, and let it lie four and twenty hours; then season your Beef with a handful of sweet herbs minced, two Nut∣megs, with a little Cloves and Mace beaten, and a quantity of small Pepper not to be discerned, so Coller up your Beef, and bind it with your Tape; if you have a Pot high enough, you may bake it, put a little liquor therein; otherwayes you may boyl it in Pomp-water with a soft fire; when it is cold put it into your pickle, being of white-wine, strong broth, and Vinegar, with a little salt, if the Coller be too fresh, otherwise you need put none; When you go to dish this at a feast, you may cut it into four Collers; it will be of a lovely red, stick it with bay-leafs, and garnish your dish with flowers and green: You may also cut many dishes of your Coller in slices, it will be an handsom Service for your second course.

To Coller Veal.

TAke a breast of Veal and bone him, and beat him square, fitting to be Collered, soak him well in several waters, till all the blood is soaked out, then take him and dry him, and season him with beaten Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Ginger, put a handful of sweet herbs, about a spoonful of salt, strow this all over it, then have your slices of fine thin fat bacon, seasoned with a little Sage and Pepper; dip each piece in the yolks of eggs, and arder all over your Veal, so be∣gin at the neck end, and roul it up into a fast Coller, bind it up fast

with Tape, so boyl it with your bones, with a faggot of sweet herbs, keep it constantly scummed, till it is boyled, then put it into your Sowsing-pan with the same broth, adding some Vinegar and Salt thereto, with some large Mace; when you serve it up, you may cut it in thin slices, and fill a great dish, and garnish it with flowers, and serve it for the first course.

To Coller Pigg.

YOur Pigg being split and boned, and soaked well in several waters, dry it, season it with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, a little quantity of Pepper, with a handful of sweet herbs, and sage, about a spoonful of Salt; all this being mixed, cast them on both sides of your Pigg; then Coller it close, beginning at the tail, and bind it up: wash it clean from the herbs, and put it a boyling in fair water, keep it constantly scummed; when it is more then half-boyled, put in a faggot of sweet herbs, some large Mace, a race of two of Ginger sliced, with half a pint of Vinegar, and a piece of Izenglass or at least boyl your Izenglass and your Spice in so much of it that you intend to jelly; The Pigg being boyled, put it forth into your Vessel or pan, take away the top and the bottom of your broth or jelly, melt it, and pour it to your Pigg again, dish up your Pigg, when you are ready, cut your Coller into three or four, and dish the head in the middle, on the top of them, with an apple in his mouth; beat your jelly, and garnish your Pigg and dish with slices and gobbets (with some slices on the back) as also with flowers and Bay leaves.

To Coller Porck.

YOu may take a piece of Porck out of the side, as you did before of Brawn, being watered all night, and well squeezed from the blood, seasoned with a good handful of Sage, sweet Margerom, Time and Parslee minced together very small; then having cut out of a fillet of Veal so many thin collops, hackt with a back of a knife, and washed over with yolks of eggs, cover over your said Coller, with your eggy side of your Veal downwards, then wash over your Veal on the upper side with eggs, and throw on your seasoning, with so much Salt as you may imagine may season it, and it will congeal together by reason of the eggs: so Coller it, and bind it up, and when it is boyled, Sowce it with some of the said liquor, and a little Vinegar, beaten Pepper and Ginger: You may slice a Coller thereof when you dish it; it will fill three or four great dishes or chargers, or you may send it up in a Coller; garnish about your dish with sage

and flowers, and stick your Porck with Bay-leaves, or Rosemary and flowers.

To Coller Mutton.

TAke a breast of Mutton and bone it, cut off the neck part of it, slice it about the brisket, soak it very well in water from all the blood, it being dryed and spread abroad, season it with an Onion, a little Sampier, a few Capers, a pickle Cowcumber, add to it a little Time; all this being small minced together, throw it on your meat, with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a little Ginger and Salt, with some pieces of Anchoves all over; sprinkle a top thereof with your feather, the yolk of an egg, then wind up your Coller exceeding close, and boyl it with water and salt, with a faggot or two of sweet herbs; you may cut a neck in five or six pieces, and lard it with Lemmon-pill and boyl with it; thus you may do with your Chines also; but if you Sowce your Chines, you must lard them with bacon, being boyled, put Vinegar into the liquor; This will also serve for a hot boyled meat, the lear being made as you shall see in the hot boyled meats; if you send it up cold, you may cut it into so many slices, as you have larded pieces; put the highest Coller in the middle, then garnish your dish with Sampier or Capers, your meat with Lemmon.

To Coller Goats flesh.

TAke your Goats flesh, breast or neck, bone it, cut it, and beat it out as thin at one place as another, season it with Pepper, Salt, some Cloves, Mace, a little Time, sweet Margerom, Winter-Savory and Ginger beaten; Coller it, bind it, and bake it in a Pot, put a pint of white-wine and strong broth thereto, when it is baked, add more wine to the liquor, cut it in the middle, and let it lye in the pickle, so you may send it up in slices, or how you please.

To Coller Geese.

BOne your Geese, and cut them square, fit to be Collered, let them soak one night in their seasoning, it being Cloves and Mace, Pepper and Salt, so in the morning take it forth, and put small pieces of An∣choves all over, and Westphalie bacon minced, then roul it up, as afore∣said, and boyl it in strong broth, with a little whole Pepper and large Mace, pickle them in the same liquor; when you dish them, cut them in halves, then the two sides will stand upwards, dish them up, garnish the brims of your dish with Westphalie bacon minced.

To Coller Swan.

BOne your Swan, and part the two sides, season it as the Geese afore∣said, only instead of the Westphalie Bacon and Anchoves, take thin slices of fat bacon, almost the breadth of the sides, season them with small Pepper and Sage minced, and dip them into yolks of eggs, and so lay them on upon the sides of your Swan, and roul them up into Collers; let your pickle as aforesaid, be as to the Geese; boyl the head to set upon your Collers in the middle of your dish.

To Coller Brand Geese or Wiggens.

DO as you did by your Geese before, only add thereto an Onion or two, before you have Collered it; this will all serve for second course, in case you want number of dishes, or else you may use them for the first course.

By the same rule you may do any other fowl, according to their nature in the time of season.