The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK X.

Containing Frigasies and Frying.

How to fry all manner of Garnishing.

YOu must beat the yolks of eggs, put in the beating a little flower, and Sack, make them into a batter, add to the batter some grated Nutmeg; if you make much, you may put in four whites amongst eight eggs: let it be thick.

How to fry Oysters in Batter.

LET your Pan be hot with your Clarified Butter or tryed Suit, and your Oysters being set and dryed, dip your Oysters in the aforesaid Batter, and put them into your pan; do not over charge your pan; if you do, it will Rise up in a froth, and spoil that which you fry; hold your pan on a hot fire with your Oysters, and when they are come to a lovely brown, take them out with your cum∣mer; thus you may fry sliced Lobsters, Pranes, or Peri∣winkles, the tayls of Crafish, to serve for the garnish∣ing of your fish; you may fry Rosemary dipt slightly in Batter: your Pan must be very hot to fry Bay-leaves, Fennel, or Parslee; your scummer must alwayes be in your hand; for assoon as they become green and crisp, they will turn black if you take them not forth; these

things you must not dip in batter: you may fry Skirrets, sliced Potatoes, and bacon in thin slices in the said batter; If you would fry green, then you must scald some Spin∣nage in boyling water, and mince it with your knife ex∣ceeding small; you may strain in a little of the juice of it, but then you must add more flower; beat this in with the yolks of eggs, and fry your green away (with your pan seasoned) as your other before; To know if your Pan be hot, if it leave ••ishing, and begin to smoak, then it is hot: take it off, else it will burn and spoil all: If you would fry any other thing in batter: you must fry it after the manner afore prescribed: thus much for a garnish.

A Frigacy of a Henn or Capon.

THey being either roast or boyled before, almost enough, and carved up, the Pinnions being out off from the wings, and the brawn of the Capon cut off from the joynt, and be∣ing so ordered that it may lye handsome in the pan: put to them (as they are in the dish) the yolks of four eggs, with a little minced Time and sliced Nutmeg: then mingle them up together beeween your hands: your pan being on the fire, with clarified butter (or sweet suit) half hot, put them in, and let them fry untill they be yellowish, then turn them: so take a little White wine, and beat it with three or four yolks of eggs: add to it a little strong broth and gravy, an Onion or two cut in quarters, two Anchovies minced with a grated Nutmeg, then pour out all your stuff from your Capon or Henn, and put to it a ladleful of drawn butter: so put this Leare into your pan, and keep it continually shaking over a sober fire, untill it turns thick, or is ready to boyl, then dish up your Capon or Hen in order; if your Leare in your pan be too thick, you may thin it with Gravy, Wine, or strong broth: so pour over your Lear: strow it with the yolks of eggs minced, and garnish it with Lemmon.

To make a Frigacy of Chicken brown.

TAke about four Chickens, scald them, and cut them in quarters: beat them flat with your Cleaver, and break their bones, dry them with a cloth very well, and flower them all over the skinny sides; your pan being hot with clarified butter, put them in with the skinny side down∣wards, fry them brown, then turn them: let your Lear be a little Claretwine and gravy: then put your liquor out of your pan, and put in your leare, with pieces of sas∣sages wrung off as long as your thumb, and a pint of Oysters, two or three onions, with a faggot of sweet herbs, a grated Nutmeg, and two or three Anchovies, let them boyle up in the pan; then beat the yolks of four eggs with a little strong broth, take the pan off the fire, and put them in: if it turns too thick, you may thin it with Wine, Gravy or strong broth: keep it shaking whilest its on the fire, then dish up your Chickens on Sippets, and pour on your Leare, and Oysters, with your pieces of Sassages by the sides of your dish, and garnish it with Lemmon.

Another way for Chickens or Rabbets.

TAke your Chickens or Rabbets, and let them be almost half boyled, cut them in halves or quarters: put them into your pan with a little fresh butter, (heat not your pan at all for them) then lay your pan on the fire, and let them fry soberly: Let your Leare be ready, the yolks of three or four eggs beaten, with about half a pint of Verjuice, a little White wine, and strong broth, a Nutmeg grated, and a handful of parslee, boyled up green and minced, with about a spoonful of Sugar, adding one handful of scalded Goosberries, Grapes, or sliced Artichoke bottoms; put all these in the pan to your Chickens, being kept shake∣ing over the fire, untill it be ready to boyl, then dish your Chickens, or Rabbets on Sippets, shake your Leare, and let it be as thick as drawn butter, so pour it all over your Chickens, strow on a Lemmon cut like dice, and garnish it with boyled parslee and Barberries.

To smear Collops of Veal.

TAke a piece of your Fillet of Veal, and cut it into thin Collops, and hack it with the back of your knife, and lard them with Bacon very thick, then put them into your pan, it being pretty hot, and fry them with clarified but∣ter very brown on both sides▪ And let them be so hastily done, that they may not be fryed quite through; then having half a pint of Claret wine, and half a pint of Gravy, put it in your pan (with four Anchovies, three or four Onions, a little minced Time, and grated Nut∣meg) amongst your burnt Butter; when it is boyled up, thicken it with the yolk of an egg▪ so dish up your Col∣lops, and pour on your Leare on the top: if your Pan be little, you may fry them at twice, and let them boyl up af∣ter the same manner, in your stewing dish, Garnish them with Lemmon.

To fry a dish of Lamb stones and sweet breads.

Blanch your Lamb stones, taking off the outward skin, and split them through, also slice your Veal sweet breads, let your Lambs be whole, so let your pan be very hot, and your Lamb stones and Sweet breads flowred exceeding well; you may fry them up into a pure brown, if you do not overcharge your pan; let your sawce be gravy, butter and vinegar, dish them up, and strow over them parslee fryed crisp.

How to make a Frigacy of Lamb.

TAke a legg of Lamb, and cut it into Collops, and beat it with the back of the knife; put it into a dish with the yolk of four eggs, a handfull of Parslee, Time, Sweet Margerum and Spinnage minced very small, put to it a little beaten Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and a little Salt, mixt them all together, your Frying pan being over the Fire with clarified Butter almost hot; put them in, and fry them softly, let them not be brown, but rather green; when they are almost fried, put to them a little White wine

and strong broth, three Onions in halves, and a laddle of drawn Butter: let it boyl up in the pan, then beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little Vinegar, a little Nutmeg, and a little gravy; dish up your Lamb on Sip∣pets, and pour on the Lear, and garnish it with Lemmon sliced.

A Frigacy of Veal.

YOur Veal being cut from the fillet, very thin, but not very large, do by it as before, by your Lamb, add yolks of eggs, and green minced herbs, until your Veal looks green; fry it up as before, and put it into a stewing dish, wish a little White wine, and strong broth; then cut some thin slices of Bacon, and throw into the dish amongst the sweet herbs, where the Veal was before; season it with a little Pepper, and minced sage, throw in the yolk or two of an egg: your pan being hot, fry it a little on both sides, so put it into the Leare with the Veal, and also that in the pan, it was fried withall, so let it boyl up together, and beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little Vinegar; put it into your meat, and toss it up together, with a ladle of drawn butter, and two Nutmegs grated; dish up your Veal with your Bacon about it, and pour over your Lear.

A dish of Collops of Mutton with a savoury hogo.

CUt your Collops of your Mutton through your Loyn, and beat them with the flat of your Cleaver; sprinkle them with Salt, and put them in your Pan, with some but∣ter to them, fry them pretty brown on each side, then put them out into your stewing dish, with some Claret wine and strong broth; set them on the coals to boyl, then •…•…ince two or three Onions; (as many as your hand will •…•…tain when they are minced,) put your pan on the fire 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a piece of sweet butter, let it continue until it burn, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 throw in your Onions, when they are crisp, put them 〈…〉〈…〉 steaks with the burnt butter, with two or three An∣•…•… minced, a handful of Capers, and Sampier minced, with a couple of sliced Nutmegs; let it all boyl up together,

take the yolks of one or two eggs beaten in, when they are enough; if you have gravie, make use of it also, dish up your steaks, and pour on your Leare.

To fry Collerd Pork.

YOu may see how to Coller it, as before; all that you have to do, is to slice the Coller, and your Pan being very hot, fry it with clarified stuff: you may eat it with Mustard as you do Sowse; this may serve when you have occasion to add a dish to your common diet.

Another way.

BReak the yolks of eggs, and beat them with a little Nutmeg; then dip in your Collers, and your Pan be∣ing hot as for eggs, put them in, and fry them away; you may dish them about a forced legg of Lamb, or fil∣let of Veal, or any other dish of that nature; you may also fry your Collerd Veal up with eggs, as you did your Pork, so dish it up, with a slice of one, and a slice of the other, and put to it a little Gravie, Butter and Vinegar boyled up to a heighth, and garnish it with Lemmon.

A Frigacy of Partridge or Woodcocks.

THey must be first almost roast, and then carved as at the Table, and fryed with sweet Butter, and an O•…•…∣on minced exceeding small, put to them half 〈…〉〈…〉 Gravie, and two or three Anchovies, half a 〈…〉〈…〉 grated bread, a grated Nutmeg, a little dra==•…•… 〈…〉〈…〉 and the yolk of one egg, beaten with a 〈…〉〈…〉 wine; so toss them all together, when they 〈…〉〈…〉 come to a thickness, so dish them up, and 〈…〉〈…〉 with Lemmon.

A Frigacy of Ducks or Widgeons.

YOu must cut them out raw in quarters, and beat them with the flat of your Cleaver; then dry them well, and put them into your pan with some Butter, and fry them well; when they are pretty well fryed, put into them one handful of minced Onions, and a little while after, put in some Claret-wine and eight slices of Bacon, having been boyled before, you may add a handful of Spinnage and Parslee boyled up green, and minced small; when it is stewed up in your Frying-pan, beat in a couple of yolks of eggs, with a grated Nutmeg, and a little Pepper; so toss it up with a ladleful of drawn Butter, and dish it up; pour on your Lear over it, and your Bacon on the top of your Ducks.

A Fryed meat of Bacon.

FIll your pan very full of slices of Bacon very thin, then take of Time, Winter savoury, sweet Margerum, and Pennyroyal, all minced; strow a little of this over all your Bacon in the pan, with a grated Nutmeg; then beat fourteen eggs together, and when your pan is hot with your Bacon in it, and begins to fry, take a ladleful of eggs, and pour it round by the Bacon, all along by the pans side; then pour it cross wayes from side to side, both wayes, then fill up all the vacant places, so that you hide all the Ba∣con; let it fry very soberly, then butter a plate, and put it into your pan, so turn it thereon; put more butter in your pan, and shift it into the pan, off your plate, so pour on some eggs on that side of the Bacon, but do it very lightly; and when the underside is fryed, you may turn it on your plate again, and fry the upper side; then take it up, and dish it on a dishing-plate, and scruise on Lemmons; garnish it with quartered Lemmons.

To make a fryed meat, called an Amlett.

BEat in according to your pan, sixteen eggs, (more or less) with a grated Nutmeg, and a Lemmon cut in the likeness and quantity of Dice, beat them together well, put butter in your pan, set it over the fire, let it be indifferent hot (but not to burn) then put in your eggs, keep them stirring that they grow not to the pan, put in butter by the sides, to make them shift up and down, and when they be∣gin to harden and congeal, shake them round; by constant putting in of butter, they will move round, then turn them on your plate, put butter into your pan, and turn the other side downward; fry it of a pure yellow brown, so take it out of the pan on your plate, and dish it up, scruise on a Lemmon or two, garnish it about with Oranges, and scrape on Sugar.

Another way.

TAke twelve eggs, whites and yolks, and about a pinte of Cream, with two handfuls of grated Manchet, beat these together, with a little Rose-water and Sugar, grated Nutmeg, and some Cinamon, put a little melted butter into a skillet, set it on the fire, and pour your eggs and cream into it; keep it stirring until it grows thick into a body, and clears it self from the bottom of the skillet; your pan being hot with butter in it, put it out of the skillet in∣to your pan, and flat it with your slice about your pan, fry it brown, and turn it with a plate, put more butter in your pan, and shift in the other side; when it is enough, take it out upon your plate, and dish it up; scruised on it a Lemmon or two, and garnish it with Oranges.

To fry Primose-leaves in March with eggs.

TAke a handful or two of Primrose leaves, mince them very small, beat them into a dozen eggs; your pan being very hot, cool it a little, and put in a piece of butter, so put in your eggs, fry them very soberly; when it is enough on that side, turn it, and lay it in again on the other side;

when it is enough, scrape on Sugar, scruise on the juice of a Lemmon or two.

To fry Clary.

GAther the youngest Clary and string it, then beat some yolks of eggs, a grated Nutmeg or two; (in the num∣ber of eight eggs, you may put in two whites) put on your pan with some butter on the fire, that it may be hot enough for eggs, then dip your Clary into your yolks of eggs, and put it into your pan; fry it of a lovely brown on both sides; dish it up, and strow on Sugar, adding a little Butter, Vinegar and Sugar to it; it is good for break-fast, or second course dish.

To fry Apples.

YOu must first half coddle your Apples, then cut them in slices, and having a dozen eggs beaten together, and your pan hot with sweet butter, put so many eggs in as will run round your pan, and will make it no thicker then a Pancake; when it begins to harden and turn round, cover it all over with the slices of your Apples, and sprinkle over them good store of Cinamon, Ginger and Sugar; then pour on eggs all over your Apples, (as much as you put under them before) take them off the fire, and with a red hot fire-shovell harden them on the top; butter your plate and turn them, so fry them on the other side; then dish them up, and scrape on Sugar.

How to make an Orangado Phraise.

MInce your Orangado very small, with some Cittern amongst it, then beat them in a Morter to mash, put to them twelve eggs, casting away the whites of four, add to that a little Rose-water, with two Naple Biskets grated, let your pan be hot with a little sweet butter, this being mixed together, put it into your pan; when it is fryed, so that it turns round, take a red hot fire-shovell, and congeale it on the top, then turn it on a plate, and put it into your pan again with some butter, and when it is fryed tenderly,

dish it up; scrape on Sugar, and garnish it with Orangado and Cittern.

A Tanzie of Cowslips or Violets.

BEat your Cowslips or Violets in a Morter, put into them a pinte of Cream, a handful of grated bread, a dozen of eggs, casting away four whites, some beaten Cinamon and Nutmeg, half a handful of Sugar, with a little Rose-water, put a piece of Butter into a skillet over a fire, and stir them until they come into a body; then put a little butter into your pan, being hot, and proportion it in your pan, and fry it; when it is fryed on that side, turn it on your plate, being washed with butter, so turn the other side into your pan, and when it is fryed, dish it up, scruise on the juice of Lemmon, and garnish is with quartered Oran∣ges, and scrape on Sugar.

A Tanzie of Spinnage.

TAke a pinte of Cream, a handful of grated bread, fourteen eggs, cast away the whites of six, season it with a grated Nutmeg, and Sugar, and green it with the juice of Spinnage; so bring it into a body, in a skillet, and fry it, as before you did the other; this will be a very tender Tanzie; but if you intend to cut it according to the vul∣gar way, you must add the other whites of eggs, else de∣minish in your Cream; dish it up, scruise on the juice of a Lemmon, and garnish it with quartered Oranges, then scrape on Sugar. After this way and manner aforesaid, have I made Tanzies of Wallnut-tree buds in Lent, and of Pine-apples and Pistaches, at other seasons.

To fry Artichokes, or Spanish Potatoes.

WHen they are boyled and sliced, fitting for that pur∣pose, you must have your yolks of eggs beaten with a grated Nutmeg or two; when your pan is hot, you must dip them into the yolks of eggs, and charge your pan; when they are fryed on both sides, your Lear to your Arti∣chokes is drawn Butter, and to your Potatoes, Butter, Vi¦negar,

Sugar and Rose-water; these for a need may serve for second course dishes.

To make Fritters.

TAke a pottle of flower that hath been dryed in an Oven, put to it six eggs, and the curd of a pottle of Milk, made with Sack and Ale, scruise all the Whey out of it, season it with Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and Ginger beaten, with a little Salt; then make it into a batter with milk, and put therein a dozen of Pippins sliced thin, beat it all well together, let it be so thick with the Apples and the Batter, that it may not run apart if it be put upon a pie-plate; then let your tryed lard be hot in the pan, continuing over the fire; put a ladleful of batter upon a pie-plate, and put it off into your boyling lard upon the point of a knife, to the value of a small Wall∣nut at a time; you must be very quick to scrape it from your plate into your pan, till it is fully charged; keep them stirring about until they are brown and crisp, then take them forth, and dish them up into a hot dish, and strow them with Cinamon and Sugar; you may also slice the Pippin through the Apple, to the tail-ward, being cored, and dip them into a thick batter, and so put them into your liquor as before.

To make Pancakes.

PUt to a pottle of flower eight eggs, casting by four whites, season it with Cinamon, Nutmeg, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, and Salt, then make it up into a strong Bat∣ter with Milk; beat it well together, and put in half a pinte of Sack, make it so thin, that it may run in your pan as you please; put your pan on the fire, with a little butter or suet; when it is very hot, take a cloth and wipe it out, so make your pan very clean, then put in more butter, and hold on your pan till it is melted, put in your batter, and run it very thin, supply it with little bits •…•…f butter, so toss it often, and bake it crisp and brown.

Another way to dress a dish of Collops of Veal.

CUt a piece of a leg of Veal into thin Collops, with part of the dugg, beat it thin with the back of a knife, and lard it very well, then mince very small a good handful of Spinnage, a handful of Parslee, a little Time, sweet Mar∣gerum, and Wintersavoury, season them wirh a little Pep∣per, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Salt, then beat about eight yolks of eggs, and dip your Collops therein, so roul them in your green herbs, that they may stick to them, and put them into your pan with clarified Butter (being hot, as for eggs) when they are fryed on both sides with a fine green colour, put to them some strong Broth, a little white-wine, two or three spoonfuls of Vinegar, two or three Onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, with a grated Nutmeg, and let it stew altogether, then add the yolks of two eggs beaten with some of their own liquor, and a ladleful of drawn Butter, so shake it altogether, dish up your Collops, and pour on your lear; garnish it over with Bacon fryed in the yolks of eggs.

To fry Calves Feet, or Sheeps Trotters.

WHen they are boyled very tender, and split in the middle, cutting away the bunchy hair between the toes of your Trotters, season them with a little small Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg beaten; then take about the yolks of ten eggs, with the whites of three or four put to them, a handful of Parslee, Spinnage, Time, sweet Mar∣gerum, and Wintersavoury, minced exceeding small, beat them together in batter; your pan being hot with clarified butter, dip your feet into this batter, and put them in, fry them soberly on both sides, then put to them a little strong Broth, Vinegar and Sugar, so let them stew together, beating them up thick with the yolk of an egg and drawn Butter, dish them on sippets, and scruise a Lemmon over them.

How to Frigacy Neats Tongues and udders.

WHen they are boyled enough, take your Tongue and Udder, and cut them in slices or Collops, beginning at the butt end, until you come within five inches of the tip, and cut that in sippets length wayes, both of your Ud∣der and Tongue, then take a handful of Spinnage, Parslee, Time, sweet Margerum and Wintersavoury minced exceed∣ing small, and put it into your dish with the Udder and Tongue; put to it Cloves, Mace and Cinamon beaten, with a little Salt, the yolks of six or seven eggs, and mingle it all together very well with your hands, then fry it in clarified butter, put it forth into a great stewing-dish on a heap of coals, with Clares-wine, beaten Cinamon and Ginger, Sugar, a little Vinegar, a branch or two of Rose∣mary, and a handful of grated bread; when it boyls up together, add a ladleful of drawn butter, so dish it up with the slices of your tops of Tongues, &c. round about like sippets, and pour on your Lear.

To potch a dish of Eggs for a weak stomach.

TAke a handful of very good Sorrel beaten in a Morter, strain it forth with the juice of Lemmon, and a little Vinegar: put to it a little Sugar and grated Nutmeg, then take some sippets hardened upon a Gridiron, and lay them on the bottom of your dish; put on them a little strong Broth, and a spoonful of drawn butter, then pour in your Sorrell, and set it on a great heap of coals; your eggs be∣ing potched in a little water and salt either in a clean frying pan, or a broad bottomed skillet, with a little more water then will cover them; then take them up, drain them from the water, and lay them on your sippets, so cover them and send them suddenly away; you must observe that your sauce must never be no hotter on the fire, then that you may eat it without cooling it again; for if you do, it will change the colour of your Sorrell, and give your Lemmon and it a bad taste.

Another way rich and strengthening.

PUt sippets in your dish, as aforesaid, then beat half a handful of Pistaches, and put them into half a pinte of very good Mutton gravie, distill them over the fire, adding a grated Nutmeg, and the juice of a Lemmon, with two or three Anchovies dissolved in some of the gravie; then put it to or on your sippets, being on a great fire, then dish up your potched eggs (drained clean from the water) on your sippets, put all your Pistaches over your eggs, with a little drawn Butter, to make them look handsom.

Another way.

FIll your dish with toasted sippets, as aforesaid, put to them a pinte or half a pinte of Tent, or Muscadine, grate a Nutmeg on them; your eggs being very rarely done, and drained clean from the water by a little false bottom, or spoon made for that purpose; lay them on your sippets and wine, being moderately warm, send them up.

How to Butter Eggs.

BReak about sixteen eggs, or what you please; beat them and put them into a deep dish, with about half a pound of Butter or more in pieces, and almost melted; set them upon a great heap of coals until they begin to come to∣gether in the bottom; then have about a dozen toasts ready (through the roul) put them all over the bottom of your dish, and with a great spoon rake them round from one side to the other, and lay the fleaks as they rise, upon your toasts in the dish; this must be done with much quick∣ness and diligence, lest it burn to the bottom; when all is laid on the toasts, pour over every one of them drawn Butter, stick them with small toasts, and send them up.

Another way.

BReak them on Butter, as aforesaid, then bring them up into a tender body with your spoon; dish them into a dish with toasts round about; this is your common way.

To fry Collops and Eggs.

CUt your Collops out of middling Bacon, exceeding thin, and about four inches long, so cutting of it off the rine at once, part it into a dish of fair water, and let them lye an hour or two to take away the Salt; then take them forth and dry them from the water, and fry them in a pan with Butter or tryed stuff, keep them tossed while they are a frying, put them in a dish before they are through crisp, and set them before the fire, then pour the liquor out of your pan, and make it exceeding clean, by scouring of it with the shells of eggs, then almost fill your pan with pure clarified dripping or butter; when it is hot, but not to blister your white much, break in your eggs one by one, then put them on your Trivett on Charcoals, and part them asunder with your knife, and shake your liquor all over them, so will they fry on the top, your need not turn them; in case your pan be not full enough, you may just turn them, and dish them upon your Bacon, and part of the Bacon on the top of them; this way they will be as white or whiter then potched.

Many more things of this nature, is or may be used in Frigasying or Frying; but by the knowledge of these, all other things according to their nature, may be performed by an ingenious Practitioner.