A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.

A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. To D. W.

VOL. II.

LETTER XXIII.

I Cannot express the Pleasure with which I read your long Letter, that part of it especially which assures me that my Letters have given you some Satis∣faction.

I do not intend to trouble you with Reflexi∣ons on the present Occurrences in your Coun∣try, of which you have given me an Account: For besides, that such a Design would engage me into long and useless Digressions, I am per∣swaded, that an Answer to those new Questions

which you propose concerning Venice, will be more acceptable to you. I will endeavour then to answer them succinctly, and in the same or∣der in which you have rank'd them; and after∣wards proceed to entertain you with my Obser∣vations concerning Rome.

I. Your Venetian Gentleman may affirm as positively as he pleases, That Venice contains Two hundred and fifty thousand Souls; but you must not imagine, that because he is a Citizen of Venice, he must be a competent Judge of the number of its Inhabitants; that is a thing which neither his Eyes nor mine can ever be able to determine, nor can it be known without a very diligent and nice Enquiry: And therefore I am still of the opinion, that this Controversie ought to be decided by the Authority of those who have grounded their Calculations on a careful and particular Examination. I told you, that the Computation which I follow, comprehends the Inhabitants of la Giudeca, for I look upon that Island as a part of the City of Venice; but I do not include the Isle of Murana. In the mean time you must give me leave to tell you, that you carry the point too far, when you pretend, that 'tis impossible to make a judgment of the number of the Inhabitants of a great City; for, if you consider what has been done by Sir William Petty, you will be convinc'd, that there are rational methods to make such a computation, without any conside∣rable Error.

II. The two great Columns of Granite, which are near the Sea, at the end of the place call'd the Broglio, were brought from* 1.1 Egypt, or, as some say, from Constantinople. The Lyon of St. Mark holding an open Book, with the Inscri¦ption of Pax tibi, Marce, &c. is upon one of these Columns; and those are the Arms of Ve∣nice. The Statue of S. Theodore is on the other Pillar. I think I told you, that 'tis the Custom of the Signiory to erect such Columns in all the Cities under its Dominion.

Your Friend has misinform'd you, who told you, that the three great Banners, which on Festi∣val days are set up on the Brazen Pedestals over against S. Mark's Church, represent the State of Venice and the two Kingdoms of Cyprus and Candia. This, I confess, is the generally-receiv'd Opinion, but 'tis as false as common; for the Republic's Arms are to be seen, without the least difference, on all the three Banners; nor is there any Design to represent either Cyprus or Candia, which are not so much as nam'd. I cannot comprehend the meaning of those who have assur'd you, that the Republick has no Coat of Arms, and that the above-mention'd Lyon is too highly respected at Venice to be put in a Scutcheon. That same Lyon is to be seen in all those places where the Arms of the State ought to be: And it is no less ridiculous to say, that it serves instead of Arms, but really is no such thing, than it would be to pretend that the Venetians wear no Shirts, but that they make

use of certain pieces of Linnen, that are cut and sew'd exactly like our Shirts, which only serve them instead of Shirts. It cannot be reasonably suppos'd, that the Respect they have for their Lyon should hinder them from using it for their Arms, since we commonly see Saints and Cruci∣fixes apply'd to the same use. And you know the story of a Venetian Ambassador, who told an Emperor that ask'd him, in what part of the World the Republick had found those wing'd Lyons which are to be seen in its Coat of Arms, That he believ'd they found them in a certain Country where all the* 1.2 Eagles have two Heads. Moreover, the Lyon of St. Mark derives its original from Ezekiel's Vision† 1.3, which I have already mention'd in another place, and not, as you have been inform'd, from a pretended Me∣tamorphosis of St. Mark, who was turn'd to a Lyon, to extinguish the incestuous Love of his Sister.

III. I remember I told you, that the Air of Venice is good; but I must confess that 'tis very bad in the Lagunas. And even I am credibly inform'd, that the Inhabitants of the little Isles are forc'd to leave their Habitations during the great Heats.

IV. 'Tis so universally known, that the Doge of Venice continues for Life, whereas the Doge of Genoua is chang'd every two years, that I thought it needless to inform you of a thing which I presum'd you knew as well as I.

The Revenue of the Doge of Venice amounts to near* 1.4 Three thousand Pounds Sterl. according

to my best information. The present Doge is not marry'd. The Dogesses are excluded from having any share in those shadows of Honour which are paid to their Husbands, which is an Effect of the Frugality of the Government; and indeed, the Republick has no need of two Mock-Soveraigns.

V. In my former Letters I said nothing, or very little, concerning the Libertinism and De∣bauchery that reigns in the Monasteries, because I am not particularly acquainted with the Fashi∣ons of those places. I can only tell you what is generally known and acknowledg'd, That the Nuns receive Persons in Masquerade at the Grate; that they put themselves into all man∣ner of Disguises, that they go incognito to see Plays, and elsewhere; that they joyn in publick Feasts, and have Tables made for that purpose, of which one half is within and the other with∣out the Grate; that they are concern'd in a thousand Intrigues, and are often the Principal Actors in them. I leave you to judge of their private Employments, for I am resolv'd not to pry into them. As for the bouncing Brothers of the Cowle, they are such horrible Debauchees, that 'tis impossible to fancy any Excess of which they are not guilty.

VI. I am not at all surpriz'd at your Friend's Exclamations against the Account that I gave you of the Venetian Government, and parti∣cularly against the Soveraignty of the ancient Doges; but let him strut and swagger as he pleases, 'tis folly either to deny or strive to

conceal a thing which is known to all the World.

VII. According to the Estimate which some judicious and well inform'd Persons have made of the Revenues of this Republick, it has been computed, that reckoning one year with ano∣ther, the total sum of all their Revenues, com∣prehending also the sale of Offices, and of Nobili∣ty, Confiscation of Estates, and all other casual Profits, amounts to no more than Six millions of Crowns. I will not undertake to warrant the exactness of this Calculation, but when you propose a Question, you must content your self with such an Answer as I am able to re∣turn.

VIII. There are some Jews as Venice who drive a great Trade, especially the Portuguese, who are very rich here, as well as at Amsterdam and elsewhere. That part of the City which is allotted to them is call'd il Ghetto, or the Jewry. They wear Hats cover'd with Scarlet, doubl'd and edg'd with Black; but the poorer sort use wax'd Linnen instead of Cloth.

IX. The number of those Noblemen who are capacitated by their Age to be Members of the Great Council, may, as I am inform'd, amount to about One thousand and Three hundred; but al∣most one half of them reside in other places, being employ'd either in Civil and Military Offices, or on Embassies to foreign States; so that the Great Council is usually compos'd of Six or Seven hundred Persons at most: Yet even these

are too many, and 'tis partly the numerousness of this Assembly that has given occasion to this Proverb concerning Venice, Troppo Teste, troppo Feste, troppo Tempeste; Too many Heads, too many Festivals, and too many Tempests. Nor are the two last parts of this Apophthegm less true than the first; for the number of Festivals in Venice exceeds those that are observ'd in France by above a third part; and I am assur'd that Storms happen very frequently here in the Summer.

X.* 1.5 The Golden Book which you mention is a bare Catalogue of Names, in which all the Sons of the Noblemen are enroll'd as soon as they are born. All the Brothers have an equal Title to Nobility, and enjoy the same Privi∣leges.

Before I leave this Head, I must answer the Objection that was propos'd to you against the account that I gave you of the Venetian Noble∣men, in which I represented them as very haughty and almost inaccessible persons. Justice obliges us to give a reasonable Interpretation to every thing, and 'tis a ridiculous Victory that is obtain'd over imaginary Foes. 'Tis certain, that the Noblemen of Venice are extreamly con∣ceited of their Nobility; nor will the Politicks of that Country permit them to be very affa∣ble. 'Tis not an easie matter for a Stranger, whose Quality distinguishes him from the Vul∣gar, to get access to them at their Houses, for they are only willing to be seen at the Broglio: Besides, tho' they cannot be accus'd of spa∣ringness in their Salutations, yet they usually treat the Citizens with a great deal of coldness,

and appear always very reserv'd in their com∣pany: Neither are they wont to give and re∣ceive Visits, even among themselves. Thus you see that the Character that I gave of them was not so injurious to them as some persons would have perswaded you; for all these are shrewd signs that they do not abound in Courtesie: Nevertheless it must be acknowledg'd, that in private, when their Conveniency permits them, or at least when their Interest obliges them, they can be as kind and civil as any Men whatsoever. Neither is it altogether impossible for a Stranger to obtain the Favour of a familiar Conversa∣tion with them, especially when both the No∣bleman and the Foreigner are persons of no great note. Moreover, I would not have you imagin that I design'd only to break a Jest when I told you that the great Sleeve does sometimes serve instead of a Basket, when a Nobleman goes to the Market; for I once saw a large Sallad, and at another time a delicate Tail of a Cod thus honourably lodg'd. I know not whether I did not forget to tell you, that there are Two or Three hundred poor* 1.6 Barnabotes, who beg about the Streets, and instead of being at the charge of a Penny for the carriage of their small Provisions, would willingly turn Porters them∣selves, and earn a Penny by carrying the Provi∣sions of others. These poor Gentlemen serve for a Foil to the rich Noblemen.

It is true, that in the Summer the Noblemen take away the Furs from that which you call the Vest, and we in French la Robe; but the Edges, and that part which is turn'd up, re∣main still furr'd.

XI. It was not Ignorance of your Inclination, or rather Love to Painting, that made me guil∣ty of that Negligence with which you upbraid me, in giving you so imperfect an account of those curious Pieces that are to be seen at Ve∣nice; however, in obedience to your desire, I shall endeavour in some measure to supply that Defect, by adding some new Observations, tho' I'm afraid my Memory will not furnish me with many.

There were formerly in the Hall of the Great Council some Pictures, done by Gentilis Bellini, and John his Brother, which excell'd the best Pieces of that* 1.7 Age; but they were all lost in the Fire, which consum'd almost the whole Pa∣lace in the year 1577. The same† 1.8 Histories were copied five years after, by Frederick Zuc∣chero, and set up again in the same order in which they still remain.

Pordenone's Pictures in Fresco, in the Cloyster of St. Stephen, are very much esteem'd; as are likewise his S. Sebastian, and S. Roch, at S. John de Rialto. Pordenone was an excellent Painter; his Designs are esteem'd very judicious, and his Colours admirably well laid. He emulated Titian.

The St. Peter Martyr of Titian is reputed to be one of the finest Pictures that ever was made, but it begins to be much defac'd. The best Judges are charm'd with this Piece, tho' it has lost almost all that lustre which is wont to ra∣vish an unskilful Eye. They think they can ne∣ver enough admire the Beauty and Richness of the Colours, the judicious Disposition of the Lights, the Roundness of the Figures, the Pas∣sion

and Life that is observ'd in the Face, and that strength of Expression which reigns thro' the whole piece. There are several other Pictures by the same hand in the Churches, St. Mark's Pa∣lace, the Library, Convents, and Fraternities.

There are also some Pieces by Schiavoni, in the Library, which have been frequently taken for Titian's: Horace Vecelli his Son has almost equal'd him on some occasions; and the Picture in the Hall of the Great Council, which represents the Battel fought by the Romans against the Troops of Frederick, is the Work of Horace, tho' it be commonly ascrib'd to his Father.

The Picture of the Marriage at Cana, by Paul Veronese, in the Refectory of the Benedictine Monks in the Isle of S. George, is esteem'd to be the Master-piece of that Painter, who, you know, is famous for the same Excellencies that we admire in Titian: His Works are particular∣ly remarkable for the beautiful disposition of the Figures, judicious Choice of Colours, a great Genius, vast Ideas, the greatest Easiness imagi∣nable, and the most charming Variety. The Piece that I mention'd is Two and thirty Foot broad, and contains a Hundred and twenty five Figures.

In the Church of S. Sebastian, the Feast of Si∣mon the Leper is one of the most celebrated Pie∣ces of the same Artist. There are also three other Pictures, by the same Hand, in the Arch of S. Mark's Library, which, if my Memory do not deceive me, represent Geometry, Arith∣metick, and Glory acquir'd by Learning.

The Paradise, by Tintoret, in the Hall of the Great Council, is a famous Piece. It was said of

Tintoret, That he united the Designs of Michael Angelo with the Colours of Titian; which cer∣tainly was a very noble Character. Besides, he had the most fruitful Invention, and the quickest Hand of all the Artists of that Age. A Painter who was with me in the Fraternity, or (as they call it at Venice) the School of S. Roch, made me observe with admiration that rare Picture which Tintoret finish'd almost in a moment, while Paul Veronese, Salviati, and Frederick Zucchero his Com∣petitors in the same Work, were still busie on the rough Draught, which was to be presented to those who design'd to employ them. I have seen several other Pieces by the same Hand in the above-mention'd School, S. Maria dell' Orto, S. Mark's School, and other places.

There are some of Bassani's Works at S. Mary major: Schiavoni's Pictures in the Library are, I think, Emblems of Valour, Soveraignty, and Sanctity.

XII. I told you, That the Gondola's are co∣ver'd with black; and I think I also inform'd you, That none here are allow'd to give Live∣ries to their Servants, which may be reckon'd among the Doge's peculiar Privileges. 'Tis true, the Noblemen's Wives, during the first, and, I suppose, also the second year of their Marriage, are permitted to please their own Fancy in the choice of Colours for the Habits of their Gonde∣liers: This little Favour is granted them at the same time that they are suffer'd to adorn them∣selves with their Jewels; but as soon as the limited time is expir'd, this Mark of distinction ceases, and they are never suffer'd to resume

their Jewels, unless on some high Festivals, and during the Carnaval. The rich Curtezans chuse rather to pay the Fine, than submit to so rigo∣rous a Law.

No Man that is not in love with Contradicti∣on will dare to affirm, That the Venetian La∣dies enjoy greater Liberty than those of England or France; and 'tis impossible to alledge the least shadow of a Reason in confirmation of such a ridiculous Assertion. The Ladies of Venice are sometimes permitted, during the Carnaval, to walk abroad in disguise, to go to see a Play or an Opera, or perhaps to visit the Fairs or Ga∣ming-houses: But, what does all this Liberty signifie? Their Vizards and Disguises are more prejudicial than advantageous to them, which serve only to hide what they would willingly show, and to confound them with the worthless and ignoble Crowd. Besides, this time of Di∣version is very short liv'd: And after. all, how can they be capable of enjoying Pleasure, while they remember a thing that they ought never to forget, that 'tis impossible for them to stir a Foot without the attendance of those cursed Spies which are more insupportable to them than the heaviest Chains; not to mention their Husbands? What is all this pretended Liberty, but a conti∣nuation of that Confinement which they are forc'd to undergo for ten or eleven months in the year? And is not their Condition more tole∣rable, when they are suffer'd to walk without disturbance from one end of their Chamber to the other? I will not aggravate their Slavery by the opposition of that entire Liberty which is enjoy'd by our English and French Ladies, their

Walks, Visits, Meetings, and all the other Di∣vertisements which are allow'd to them without the least constraint or limitation of Time; for it would be altogether needless to insist on this Parallel.

XIII. The young Noblemen are suffer'd to gratifie their own Fancies in the splendour of their Equipages; nor do they usually spare any cost in Gold or Silver Stuffs, Laces, Plumes of Feathers, Purflings, and Embroideries of all co∣lours. At fifteen years of age they put on the Gown, tho' they are not permitted to enter the Council before five and twenty. On the Continent they wear what Habits they please, and enjoy a full and uncontroul'd liberty; for the Jurisdiction of the Tribunal that regulates the Habits reaches not beyond the Lagunas.

XIV. When we visited the Treasury, we heard no mention of St. Mark's Thumb, neither did our Guides acquaint us, that this Saint was dismember'd to prevent his being chosen Priest. The truth is, we never ask'd them about it, and perhaps they forgot to speak of it. They have a Tradition, that his Ring was unfortu∣nately lost, not long after he gave it, but they assur'd me that it was since recover'd. The Story will perhaps divert you, which is briefly thus:

In the year 1339. the Sea being furiously agitated, three Men accosted a Gondolier, who was endeavourieg to preserve his Boat from the extraordinary Violence of the Waves; they constrain'd him to carry them two miles from

thence, near to a place call'd The Lido: when they arriv'd there, they found a Shipful of Devils, who were raising a Tempest by their Hellish sorceries; but as soon as these three Men had chid the Fiends the Storm ceas'd. The first of the three made the Gondolier car∣ry him to the Church of S. Nicholas, the second to that of S. George, and the third to that of S. Mark. This last, instead of paying the Boat-man, gave him a Ring, with orders to carry it to the Senate, who, he assur'd him, would not fail to satisfie him for his pains. And at the same time he inform'd the Gondolier, that he that went ashore at St. Nicholas's was Mr. St. Nicholas himself, that the second was St. George, and that he himself was St. Mark, in proper Person. The Gondolier, full of astonishment at so many Wonders, related the whole story to the Senate, who not only believ'd him, but gave him a bountiful Reward.

XV. Protestants are suffer'd to be interr'd in the Churches, if the Parents of the deceased desire that Privilege: The reason is, because it is not known that there are any Protestants at Venice; for all those that are neither Jews, Greeks, nor Armenians are reputed to be Roman-Catholicks.

XVI. Your Admirer of the Venetian Palaces mistakes the state of the Question. I do not deny that there are stately Buildings in that City, which deserve to be call'd Palaces; and you may remember that I mention'd some of 'em; but every ti•••• 〈…〉〈…〉 what I told you in ge∣neral

concerning the Palaces of Italy is most cer∣tainly true; and all his Objections against it amount to no more than a bare wrangling about Words: besides, you ought not to depend on his Opinion, since you tell me, that he has no skill in Architecture. Neither ought you to re∣ly on the account he gives you of the Machins of the Venetian Opera's, since he never saw any others. And I can assure you, that he errs pro∣digiously, when he compares the Neatness of Venice to that of Holland.

XVII. You do well not to take that part of the account which I gave you of this City, ac∣cording to the utmost rigour of the literal sence of the Words, in which I assur'd you that there is a passage by Water to all the Houses in Ve∣nice: There may perhaps be five or six in a thousand that cannot be approach'd but by Land; tho' I would not be oblig'd to make good that number: But your young Traveller speaks at random, when he affirms so positively, that there is not a Canal within five hundred paces of the House where he lodg'd; and, that there are twenty such places in the City: for, by his leave, this is a monstrous Absurdity. How many spaces, at this rate, would there be in Venice, of a mile in diameter? You may easi∣ly judge, by the Platform of that City which I send to you, of the truth of my Assertion, in which I still persist, and which is grounded on undoubted Evidence.

* 1.9The City of Rome has been often describ'd by Persons who had all the Opportunities and Qualifications that were necessary to fit them for so vast an Undertaking. I will not pretend to give you a particular account of all that I observ'd in it, but only endeavour to represent to you a general Idea of that famous City, and afterwards proceed to communicate to you some particular Observations: I will entertain you with nothing but what is either new or little known, unless when I am oblig'd to resolve your Doubts, or answer your Questions. We see every day an infinite number of things which have no coherence, nor any other rela∣tion than that of the Neighbourhood of the Places where we find them; so that you must not expect any methodical connexion or con∣formity of Matter in those Observations which I promis'd to impart to you.

You are not ignorant that Rome was known by the name of Septicollis, or the City on Seven Hills: Before the Reign of Servius Tullius it had no more; but since that time it has been much enlarg'd, and at present contains* 1.10 Twelve: You must not imagine that these Hills are so many considerable Mountains, they are only small Hillocks, the ascent to which is scarce sensible.

Vopiseus, who liv'd under the Reign of Dio∣clesian, asserts positively, That the Walls with which Rome was enclos'd by Aurelian were fifty miles in compass. But this is either not well express'd, or misunderstood, or 'tis absolutely false; for it has been clearly demonstrated, that the present Walls are in a great measure the

same which Aurelian caus'd to be erected, and yet they are not above thirteen little miles about, which is the largest compass that ever Rome had. 'Tis true indeed, the Suburbs extended very far on all sides, and made the City in a manner infinite.

There is not above a third part of that ex∣tent which is comprehended within the Walls, inhabited at present; for the other two thirds on the East and South side are nothing but Gar∣dens and Ruins: so that if, during the splendor of ancient Rome, Propertius had reason to say,

Hoc quodcunq, vides, Hospes, quam maxima Roma est Ante Phrygem Aeneam, Collis & Herba fuit. At{que} ubi navali stant Sacra Palatia Phoebo; Evand••i profugae procubuere Boves.

We may now use the words of another Poet concerning the present condition of that City,

Haec, dum viva, sibi septem circumdedit Arces; Mortua nunc, septem contegitur Tumulis.

The Houses are for the most part built of Brick, plaister'd and whited over on the outside. The Roofs are ridg'd, but the Angle at the top is very obtuse, and many of them are also fa∣shion'd, as we say in France, à la Mansarde. Nei∣ther the Houses nor Streets are equally beauti∣ful, and the Pavements are neither large nor neat. I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of some of the most remarkable Buildings.

Which way soever you come to Rome, you still perceive St. Peter's Dome, which appears above all the Spires and the tops of the highest Structures in the City.

The Tiber makes a little* 1.11 Island here, and the course of that River is from North to South. That part of the City which stands on its right Bank, is not above a fifth or sixth part of the other; it is call'd Trastevera.

The first and general Prospect of Rome does not present any surprizing Beauties to the Eye of the Beholder, especially if he has already seen several other famous Cities; but the lon∣ger he stays in it† 1.12, he will still make new dis∣coveries of things, that deserve to be consider'd with attention. 'Tis impossible to walk fifty paces in or about that City without observing some Remainders of its ancient Grandeur. You know that haughty Mistriss of the Universe was wont to enrich her self with the best Spoils of her conquer'd Provinces. Porphyries, Granites, and the finest Oriental Marble, were more com∣mon there than Bricks, or the Stones that were dug out of the neighbouring Quarries.* 1.13 The Statues of Rome have been call'd a Great Nation; and we may add not unfitly, that the Colosses were the Gyants. This proud City was adorn'd with Temples, Palaces, Theatres, Representati∣ons of Sea fights, Triumphal Arches, Baths, Cirques, Columns, Fountains, Aqueducts, Obe∣lisks, Mausoleums, and other magnificent Stru∣ctures; but now all these things may be truly said to be buried in their own Ruins, tho' these Ruins, as dismal as they are, seem still to re∣tain a great deal of their ancient splendor.

The Country about Rome, for ten or twelve miles, ill peopl'd, extreamly unhealthful, and even altogether barren in some places: It is ge∣nerally flat, but very uneven.

I could not make an exact estimate of the number of the Inhabitants of this famous City;* 1.14 'Tis generally believ'd, that it contains Two hundred thousand Souls, but in such cases there are always various Opinions; it is even very difficult to reconcile the passages of ancient Au∣thors concerning the numbering of the People of Rome under the Reign of Augustus; some tell us of Three millions One thousand and Thirty seven, and others have rais'd the number to Four or Five millions; but these Calculations do not at all agree with the account of Suetonius, who com∣putes only One million and Six hundred thousand, or a few more, under Tiberius, who was the im∣mediate Successor of Augustus; and, how can it be suppos'd with the least shadow of Reason, that such a prodigious alteration could happen within the narrow space of a few years? Some Criticks will perhaps endeavour to elude the force of so pressing an Argument, by botching the Text of Suetonius, or, at least, by starting new Difficulties concerning it; but all their stu∣died subtilties will never amount to a certain de∣cision of the Controversie. This brings to my mind a passage in* 1.15 Fasciculus temporum, where the Author, speaking of the Reign of Augustus, has these words; Roma in flore, & numerati sunt ejus cives & descripti nonagesies Tricentena millia, & Octoginta millia. The number of the Citi∣zens of Rome amounted to Seven and twenty mil∣lions and Eighty Thousand: A jolly company in∣deed!

but perhaps he meant all those who had a right to the Privileges of Roman Citizens, throughout the whole extent of the Empire.

Two days after our return from Naples, we had the fortune to see a pleasant Ceremony, which I cannot forbear relating to you: You must know that a Club of sixty Gentlemen did voluntarily agree to raise a sufficient Fund to make either Wives or Nuns of Three hundred and fifty Maidens every year. Now the Cere∣mony is perform'd thus: On the Festival of the Annunciation, the Pope and the sacred College meet at the Minerva, where the Pope says a high Mass, or at least some Cardinal is appointed to officiate in his absence, and all the Girls con∣fess, and receive the Sacrament, being cloath'd in white Serge, and muffl'd up, like Ghosts, in a great piece of Cloth which covers their Head, leaving only a small passage for their sight, and oftentimes only a little peep-hole for one Eye; then they enter by two and two into the Quire where all the Cardinals are assembl'd, and pro∣strate themselves at the Feet of the Pope, or of the Cardinal who officiates for him, at whose side stands a certain Officer appointed for that purpose, with a Bason full of little white Bags in his Hand, each of which contains either a Bill of Fifty Crowns for those Maidens who chuse Marriage,* 1.16 or a Bill of a Hundred Crowns for such of them as are willing to enter into a Nunnery. Each Maiden having humbly de∣clar'd her Choice, receives her Bag hanging by a little String, and having kiss'd it, makes a low Courtesie, and files off, to make room for the rest. The future Nuns are distinguish'd

by a Garland of Flowers, which crowns their Virginity, and they are rank'd in the most ho∣nourable place at the Procession. Of all the Three hundred and fifty, there were but Two and thirty who chose St. Paul's better part, and the rest contented themselves with doing well.

Give me leave to trip from the Minerva to the Borghese Palace,* 1.17 without obliging me to give you any other reason why I do so, than that I must follow my Journal thither. This Palace is very beautiful, and contains many Rarities. The Portico's are supported by fourscore and sixteen Antique Pillars of Egyptian Granite. A∣mong the Pictures in the lower Apart∣ments, there are seventeen hundred Ori∣ginals by the most celebrated Masters: The Venus blindfolding Cupid, while the Graces bring him his Arms, is Titian's, and is esteem'd the best. Paul the Fifth, who was of this Family, is painted in such fine Mosaic Work, that his Picture is said to contain above a million of Pieces: My Calculation assures me, that this cannot be true, but, without Criticising upon a Trifle, it must be acknowledg'd that 'tis an excellent Picture. Here they shew'd us a Crucifix of the same bigness with that of the Carthusians at Naples, and assur'd us, that this is that famous Original of Michael Angelo, which I mention'd before. To reconcile this Difference, I think I may affirm, without any scruple, that the whole story is a meer Fable.

It was the common People that gave the name of Rotonda to the Pantheon, because of the roundness of its Figure. When Boniface the Fourth dedi∣cated this ancient Temple to the Virgin and all

the Martyrs, he nam'd it S. Maria ad Martyres. Afterwards some other Pope would have all the Saints in general comprehended with the Mar∣tyrs. I must ingenuously acknowledge, that I cannot give you the satisfaction you desire concerning the true reason why this Temple was of old call'd the Pantheon. Some say, that it had that name from the resemblance between its Figure and that of the Heavens, Quod forma ejus convexa fastigiatam Coeli similitudinem ostenderet. Others think that it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter and all the Gods; or, perhaps to Ju∣piter only, and to Cybele the Mother of the Gods: but after all, my opinion is, that this Contro∣versie is not well decided.

'Tis true, there are Niches all round the inside of the Temple, and I think we may rea∣sonably conjecture, that these Niches were for∣merly full of Idols, but this is the only Infe∣rence that we can draw from them. Varro tells us of Thirty thousand Deities that were worship'd at Rome; and the Philosopher Bruxil∣lus, in his dying Speech to the Senate, assur'd them, that he had left Two hundred and Eighty thousand; so that there must have been a great number of Niches indeed to ac∣commodate all those Deities. Your Niches then will not furnish you with one Argument to prove that the Pantheon was consecrated to all that multitude of Gods that were ador'd at Rome. Tho' this Temple hath lost its fairest Ornaments, it is still one of the most beautiful and entire antique Edifices in Italy. There is to be seen at Castle St. Angelo, of which I shall quickly give you some account, a Cannon which

is a seventy pounder, that was made, as well as the four Columns of the great Altar, only of the brazen Nails with which the Roof of the Portico was fasten'd.* 1.18 The Columns of this Portico are of Granite, of the Corinthian Order, and all of one piece. I measur'd them with as much exactness as you could desire: they are not all equally big, but I found that they were fifteen foot in compass, within a few inches more or less: I give you the measure of them in English feet, and you may judge of the rest by the proportion that is between each part. That piece of Granite, in which the opening of the great Gate is cut, is also of a very con∣siderable bigness; for it is forty foot high, and very near twenty broad.

The illustrious Raphael lies interr'd in this Church: Bembus made this beautiful Distick to serve for his Epitaph;

Ille hic est Raphael timuit quo sospite vinci Rerum magna parens, & moriente mori.

La Guillitiere says, that the Pantheon at Athens seem'd to him to be a far more magnificent Structure than that of Rome. But Spon has censur'd this Author for fancying the Temple of Minerva to be a Pantheon. Meursius had faln into the same Error, and their common Mistake is grounded upon the faulty description which Theodosius Zygomala, whose words they only transcribe, gives of that famous Temple, in his Letter to Martin Crusius, or perhaps on the name of Parthenion, which Pausanias gives it. I

will not exercise your patience with tedious de∣scriptions of Churches, but shall content my self to communicate to you some particular Ob∣servations concerning them, as occasion shall offer. That of St. Peter is generally esteem'd to be the largest and most magnificent Temple in the World: He that would make a right judgment of it, must go thither often; he must even walk on the top of the Arches, and into the very Ball which is over the Dome, and must also view the Church which is under Ground. At your first entrance you see no surprizing Objects; the harmony and proporti∣ons of Architecture are so judiciously observ'd, and every thing is plac'd so exactly where it ought to be, that this unparallel'd Order does rather compose the Mind than disturb its tran∣quillity; but the longer you consider this vast Structure, the more indispensably you will find your self oblig'd to admire it. Since you are willing to rely on my Fidelity and Diligence, rather than on those who have already given you some dimensions of this Edifice, I will send you the principal of them, as I measur'd 'em my self more than once, with the assistance of skil∣ful and experienc'd persons. You will very much oblige me, by giving me an Account of what resemblance or difference you shall find between these Dimensions and those of your St. Paul's.

[illustration] depiction of St. Peter's Church

S^t Peter's Church

Vol. 2^d. Pag. 24

	Engl. feet.	inch
1. The length of the Church, mea∣sur'd on the outside, comprehend∣ing the wideness of the Portico, and the thickness of the Walls,	722
2. The length of the Church, mea∣sur'd within, without comprehen¦ding either the Portico, or the thickness of the Walls,	594
3. The length of the Cross of the Church, on the outside,	490
4. The length of the Cross within,	438
5. The breadth of the Body of the Church,	86	8
6. The perpendicular heighth of the Body of the Church,	144
7. The bigness or outward circum∣ference of the Dome,	620
8. The diameter of the Dome within	143
9. The breadth of the Front of the Church,	400
10. The entire heighth of the Church, from the Floor to the top of the Cross which is over the Ball,	432
11. The diameter of the Ball,	8	4
12. The heighth of the Statues which are on the Cornish of the Second Order of the Front,	18

Bramanti, under Julius II, and Michael Angelo, under Paul III, were the two principal Archi∣tects of this Building: And indeed, there is no part of it which is not noble and majestical.

The Chair of St. Peter, supported by the four Doctors of the Church, whose Statues are of Brass gilt; the Tombs of Ʋrban VIII, Paul III, Alexander VII, and the Countess Maud, who, you know, was Gregory the VII^th'^s* 1.19 dear Friend, are Works of a finish'd beauty and magnificence.

There is nothing to be seen in this admira∣ble Structure but gilt Work, rare Pictures, em∣boss'd Work, Statues of Brass and Marble, and all these things are dispos'd in their proper places by so wise and happy a Contrivance, that the abundance of them does not cause the least Confusion. The inside of the Cupola is of Mo∣saic Work, the Arch of the Nave is of a cer∣tain fine Clay, with Compartments of rais'd work gilded; and all the Pilasters will be short∣ly overcast with the same matter, as well as the remaining part of the inside of the Church.

The great Altar is directly under the Dome, in the middle of the Cross; it is a kind of a Pavilion, supported by four wreath'd Pillars of Brass, that are adorn'd with Foliages, and strew'd with Bees, which were the Arms of P. Ʋrban VIII. Over every Column there is an Angel of Brass gilt, seventeen foot high; and there are Figures of Children playing and walking on the Cor∣nish. This Piece is extreamly valued; and the heighth of the whole amounts to ninety feet. Under this Altar there is a pair of Stairs,

which leads to the Chapel where St. Peter's Body is pretended to be kept, and to the other holy places in the Vaults of this Church.

At the entry of these Grottoes I observ'd a Bull engrav'd in Marble,* 1.20 by which Women are for∣bidden to enter into that place, save only on Whitsun-Monday, on which day it is declar'd un∣lawful for any Man to come there; and who∣soever shall act contrary to either of these Pro∣hibitions, are anathematiz'd. These places are dark, and the Sexton told us, That this Order was occasion'd by a certain amorous Adventure. There is an Indulgence of seven years for every Step of the Stairs that lead to St. Peter's Chapel, granted to such as descend them with Devo∣tion.

The double Range of Pillars which encloses the great Place that is before the Church,* 1.21 and leads to the same Church, by a double Portico on each side, is an unusual sort of Ornament, which surprizes the Beholder. There are in the Place two magnificent Fountains, which cast forth very large Streams. The Obelisk which stands in the middle is of one entire piece of Granate, it is* 1.22 seventy eight foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross, which Sixtus V. caus'd to be plac'd on the top of the Obelisk, when he set up that ancient Monument. 'Tis commonly, but falsly, reported,* 1.23 That the brazen Globe which was there formerly con∣tain'd the Ashes of Augustus. Dominicus Fontana the Architect, that was employ'd by Sixtus V, having examin'd that Ball, found that it could not have serv'd for that use; and it was nothing else but a simple Ornament. 'Tis true, the Obe∣lisk

was consecrated to Augustus and Tiberius; as it appears plainly by this Inscription, which is still very conspicuous, and may be read di∣stinctly,

Divo Caesari, Divi Julii F. Augusto: Tiberio Caesari, D. Aug. F. Augusto, Sacrum.

The Palace of the* 1.24 Vatican is adjacent to St. Peter's Church: This is certainly a conve∣niency to the Pope; but it must be acknow∣ledg'd, that the too near Neighbourhood of that Palace is by no means advantageous to the Church, but rather occasions a very unpleasnat confusion; for, the prospect of that Church would be infinitely more glorious and delight∣ful, if a great part of it were not hid by other Edifices, and if it were on all sides expos'd to the unobstructed view of the Beholder. The Vatican is not a regular Building, but rather a heap of beautiful Pieces ill tack'd together: It is said to contain Twelve thousand and Five hun∣dred Chambers, Halls, and Closets; and this computation may be easily examin'd on the Mo∣del which is shew'd of it in Wood. The Bel∣vedere is a part of the Vatican; you know, with∣out doubt, that it derives its name from the lovely prospect which is discover'd from this place.

The excellent Pieces of Raphael, Michael An∣gelo, Julius Romanus, Pinturicchio, Polidorus, John de Ʋdina, Daniel Volterra, and several other fa∣mous Masters, found us more Employment than all the other Beauties of the Palace: The History of Attila, by the incomparable Raphael,

is always surrounded with Admirers.* 1.25 I have several times observ'd with pleasure the earnest∣ness and attention with which the most compe∣tent Judges are wont to examine all its Beauties. Look, says one, what a graceful mixture of Strength and Sweetness there is in that Figure: Would you not swear that this other were alive? Does it not seem to breath? Is it possi∣ble to express a more lively Passion, or to ima∣gine a more charming posture? Admire, crys another, that prodigious variety of Faces, and that admirable disposition of Light and Shades. Did ever Michael Angelo design better, or Titian lay his Colours more happily? Never was there any Piece more noble and exquisitely beau∣tiful throughout. But 'tis time to leave them to their Raptures; neither would a whole day suffice to relate all that I have heard on this oc∣casion. The Merit of Raphael, and his glorious Reputation, sets the Wits on work every day to invent new Expressions to praise his Works. But, after all, even the greatest Examples of Perfection are not* 1.26 faultless, and Raphael him∣self is guilty of a considerable Error in the same Picture, where Pope Leo the First, and two Cardinals that attend him, are represented in the same† 1.27 Habits that are now usually worn by persons of their Rank; which is somewhat too bold a violation of the Truth of History. This puts me in mind of Titian, who forgot himself so

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

far as to hang Rosaries at the Girdles of those two Disciples, whom Christ met in their way to Emaus; and of another famous Painter, I mean Rosso, who introduces Monks in their Frocks, as Guests at the Virgin's Wedding. But leaving the Vatican, was there ever any Painter guilty of a more ridiculous design and fantastical disposition of the Parts in a Picture, than Mi∣chael, in that of the Last Judgment? There you may see Angels without Wings, and the old Ferry-man Charon transporting a Boatful of Souls; there you may behold the Resurrection of Persons of all Ages, with brawny Muscles like so many Hercules's, shoals of naked Persons huddl'd confusedly together, and Bodies expos'd in unseemly postures. Michael Angelo design'd boldly, and painted whatsoever his heated Fancy suggested to him.

Since I am upon this subject, I cannot for∣bear taking notice of the Murder of Admiral* 1.28 Co∣ligny, the History of which is describ'd in three large Pictures, which are to be seen in the Hall where the Pope gives Audience to Ambassadors. In the first Coligny is represented as he was carried to his House, after he was wounded by the Ruf∣fian Morevel, and at the bottom of the Picture is this Motto, Gasper Colignius Amirallius accepto vulnere domum refertur. Greg. XIII, Pontif. Max. 1572; that is, Gasper Coligny the Admiral is carried home wounded: In the Pontificate of Greg. XIII, 1572. The second exhibits him murder'd in his own House, together with his Son-in-law Teligny, and others, with these words, Caedes Colignii & Sociorum ejus; i. e. The Slaughter of Coligny and his Companions. And in the third,

the News of the Execution is brought to the King, who seems pleas'd with it, as it appears by the Inscription, Rex Colignii necem probat; The King approves of the Slaughter of Coligny.

The Pope did not content himself with setting up the History of this Massacre as a Trophy in his Palace; but the better to eternise the memory of so remarkable an Action, he caus'd Medals to be coyn'd, with this Inscription about his Image, Gregorius XIII, Pont. Max. An. 1. and on the reverse a destroying Angel, holding in one Hand a Cross, and in the other a Sword, with which he seems to thrust, with these words, Ʋgonottorum Strages, 1572; i. e. The Slaughter of the Hugonots, 1572. These Medals are be∣come very scarce, yet I obtain'd some of them by the assistance of my Friends.

I shall say nothing of the Gardens of Belve∣dere, nor of the Statues with which they are adorn'd: You have heard that the* 1.29 Laocoon is infinitely valu'd; and the† 1.30 Trunk, the Antinous, the Apollo, and the Cleopatra are also particularly admir'd.

* 1.31The Vatican Library has been encreas'd not only by the addition of that of Heydelberg, but also of the Duke of Ʋrbin's. The Pictures with which it is replenish'd represent the Sciences, Councils, most celebrated Libraries, Inven∣ters of Letters, and some passages in the Life of Sixtus the Fifth. The old Manu∣script

* 1.32 Virgil is in quarto, of greater breadth than length, in capital Letters, without distin∣ction of Words, or the use of Points. The Character is somewhat Gothic, which does not at all agree with the first▪ Ages of Antiquity, in which some pretend it was written, no more than the Miniature which is the product of an ignorant Age.

I observ'd among the Manuscripts of the last Ages some Letters written by, and to Cardinals; in which they stile one-another Master Peter, or Master Julius, without further Ceremony.

I saw the German Bible which you mention; they pretend that it was translated by Luther, and written by his own Hand; but the credit of that Story is destroy'd by the extravagant Prayer at the end of it, which is apparently of the same hand with the rest. Thus it is in the Original:

O Gott, durch deine gute, Bescher uns kleider und hute, Auch mentel und rocke, Felle kalber und bocke, Ochsen, Schafe, und rinder, Viele weiber, wenig kinder.

Schlechte speis und trank Machem einen das jahr lang.

That is, O God, be graciously pleas'd to grant us Clothes and Hats, Cloaks and Gowns, fat Calves and Goats, Oxen, Sheep, and Bulls, many Wives, and few Children▪ Bad Meat and all D••••••k make Life

uneasie. It must be acknowledg'd, that they who would perswade us that Luther was the Au∣thor of this Prayer, must have a very earnest desire to make him pass for a Debauchee.

From the Library we went to the Arsenal, where, if you will believe them, there is a suffi∣cient number of Arms for Twenty thousand Horse and Forty thousand Foot. But I can assure you, that there are not half so many; and besides, the Arms that they have are in a bad condition. And 'tis no wonder, for these are not the principal Thunders of the Vatican.

If on one side the Pope may descend from this Palace to S. Peter's Church, on the other he may escape unseen to the Castle of St. Angelo. Alexander the Sixth built a Gallery of Commu∣nication for this very purpose: and indeed, such a wicked man as that Pope was, had reason to provide for his security. Ʋrban VIII. fortified the Castle with four Bastions, and gave 'em the Names of the four Evangelists. There is a Picture in the Chapel, which represents Gregory the First with his triple Crown prostrating him∣self before an Angel that appears to him on the top of Adrian's Mausoleum, and puts up his Sword into its Sheath. This was done, says the Story, to advertise the Pope of the approaching Deli∣verance of Rome from a raging Plague that had wasted the City for a long time: and from hence that Mausoleum had the name of the Castle of St. Angelo.

In the little Arsenal that belongs to this Castle we saw an Armory full of prohibited Arms, and were inform'd,* 1.33 that almost all those in whose possession they were seiz'd had been

put to death. Among the rest, they show'd us Ranuccio Farnese's Pistols; I believe the Story of 'em will not be unwelcome to you, of which you may take the following brief Account, as I have heard it related by several persons here.

Sixtus the Fifth having by repeated Orders expresly prohibited the carrying of secret Arms, was inform'd; that the young Prince Ranuccio, Son and Heir of Alexander Farnese Duke of Par∣ma and Governor of the Netherlands, went usually arm'd with Pocket-pistols.* 1.34 The Pope, who was naturally the most rigid and severe man in the World, joyfully embrac'd all occasions to display the greatness of his Power, without re∣garding who might be sufferers by it. Besides, the Dutchy of Parma being a Fief of his De∣means, he look'd on that Prince as his Vassal: He commanded Ranuccio to be arrested, and to aggravate his Guilt, order'd his Pistols to be taken from him in one of the Chambers of the Pope's Palace, as that Prince was going to desire an Audience of his Holiness. Ranuccio was im∣mediately carried to the Castle of S. Angelo, and the Cardinal Farnese his Uncle left no means unessay'd to procure his Liberty, but all in vain. Whether the Pope had resolv'd on the Death of that poor Prince, or only intended to terrifie him, is a Question which I cannot determine. How∣ever, about Ten o'th' clock at night, at the same time that the Cardinal was return'd to re∣new his sollicitations, Sixtus sent an express Command to the Governor of the Castle to cause Ranuccio to be beheaded; and not doubt∣ing but that his Orders had been instantly exe∣cuted, he rid himself of the Cardinal, by grant∣ing

him a new Order to the Governor, by which he commanded him to set Ranuccio (whom he concluded to be already dead) at liberty at Ele∣ven o'th' clock. The Cardinal, who was ig∣norant of the first Order, ran to the Castle with∣out losing a moment, and was extreamly sur∣priz'd to find his Nephew all in Tears, in the Arms of a Confessor, and to hear that his Death had been only delay'd, because he had begg'd a little time to prepare himself for it. The Governor seeing this new Order, and conclu∣ding that the Pope had at last yielded to the im∣portunate sollicitations of the Cardinal, deliver'd up his Prisoner, who, by his Uncle's Command, immediately took post, and so escap'd from the very Jaws of Death.

The Cavalier Borri, a Milanese Gentleman, who is a great Chymist, and expert Physician, is at present a Prisoner in the Castle of St. An∣gelo; he is accus'd of some Heretical Opinions, but at the same time 'tis believ'd, that he is not perfectly Master of his Reason, which is the cause that he is not kept under a very close confinement, and even is sometimes permitted to visit persons of Quality in the City, who desire his assistance for the cure of their Distempers. We were inform'd, that he pretends to revive the Errors of the Collyridians in the Fourth Age, who paid a sort of Adoration to the Virgin; and 'tis even reported, that he makes her a fourth person in the Godhead.

This man puts me in mind of Dr. Molinos, of whom you desire me to send you some certain News, which 'tis impossible for me to do. 'Tis true, I have seen those Propositions that are

either heretical, or pretended to be so, of which he is said to be the Author; nor would it be very difficult to obtain a Copy of his Accusa∣tion; but all this signifies nothing. I must hear Molinos himself, before I can judge of the merit of his cause: for, 'tis certain, that all the ac∣counts that we have of him are guilty either of Aggravation or Alleviation. Of these Proposi∣tions, which I mention'd, some are dangerous, several are ambiguous, many indifferent, and others very reasonable and orthodox. How∣ever, I can assure you, that his Reputation is generally very bad in this place: He is esteem'd a Villain, a lewd Fellow, and a Seducer, who has so cunningly insinuated himself into Nunne∣ries by his Cant of Insensibility, Extasie, &c. that a great number of these poor Creatures have been deluded by him. They relate a thousand Stories to confirm the Opinion they have of him, but I must tell you once more that they are of doubtful Credit. We may easily perceive that 'tis their Interest to blacken the Character of that unhappy Man, and to load him with Reproa∣ches, since they have condemn'd him in so igno∣minious a manner to pass the rest of his days in a Cell. Besides, I observ'd, that even his bitte∣rest Enemies are wont to make a distinction be∣tween him and his Followers. Molinos, they say, is void of all Religion and Virtue; he is a man of no Principles, and believes nothing at all, but there are some well-meaning Molinists, who are unacquainted with their Master's Heart, and are sincere Professors of that Quietism, and those other Opinions, which you have heard so often mention'd▪

I am, Sir, Your &c.

Rome, March 30, 1688.

LETTER XXIV.

SIR,

THAT I may observe some Order in that variety of Matter which is the Subject of my Letters, I follow sometimes my own Journal, and sometimes yours. Some days ago M. B. made his Court to the Heroin, whom you mention, and was receiv'd with a great deal of Civility and Respect. The Company began immediately to talk of England, of its Court, the Excellency of the Country, the various Cu∣stoms of the Inhabitants, and particularly the Liberty that is allow'd to the Women; the op∣position of their easie and pleasant manner of living in that Country to the perpetual con∣finement of the poor Italian Ladies, made the condition of these last seem doubly miserable. It was however alledg'd, That this Custom which appears to be so injurious to the beauti∣ful Sex, is a necessary piece of Caution in Italy, where three quarters of the Men living under the insupportable restraint of a forc'd Celibacy, would make a dreadful havock of their Neighbor's Property, if some means were not us'd to prevent such Disorders. Why do we not then take St. Paul's Advice, reply'd one of the company, who exhorts every Man to have his own Wife, and every Woman her

own Husband? But lest we should have been insensibly engag'd in Controversie, by continuing to talk on that Subject, the Discourse was dex∣terously charg'd: And the Queen being in∣form'd, that there was a French Gentleman in the company, ask'd News concerning the late Mission of Dragoons; and after she had atten∣tively heard his Answer* 1.35,

I knew all that you have told me, said she, and have learn'd much more from the Mouths of Eye-witnesses; and even Jesuites themselves have given me an ac∣count of† 1.36 infamous Villanies; They have added Scoffing and Insolency to Treachery and Barbarity.

After these words, and some particular Stories relating to the same Subject, we discours'd of the Pope, of his Health, and of his famous Dif∣ference with the Court of France about the Immu∣nities, and at length the Queen withdrew.

You are not ignorant of the Learning and Merit of this Princess, but since you desire me to give you some account of her Person, I will make her Picture in few words. She is above sixty years of age, of a very low stature, extreme fat and thick: her Complexion, Voice, and Countenance are masculine, her Nose is great, her Eyes are large and blew, and her Eyebrows yellow; she has a double Chin strew'd with some long Hairs of a Beard, and her un∣der Lip sticks out a little. Her Hair is of a bright Chesnut colour, about a hand-breadth long, powder'd and bristl'd up, without any

Head-dress; she has a smiling Air, and is very obliging. As for her Habit, imagine a Man's Justaucor of black Sattin, reaching to the Knee, and button'd quite down; a very short black Coat, which discovers a Man's Shoe; a great knot of black Ribbon instead of a Cravat, and a Girdle above the Justaucor, which keeps up her Belly, and makes its roundness fully ap∣pear.

After the Queen had left us, we visited the principal Apartments of her* 1.37 Palace, where we found a great number of Pictures and other Antique Pieces of rare and exquisite beauty; I shall only name some part of 'em to you at present; as, the Augustus, of Oriental Alabaster, transparent as Amber; the Head and Feet are additional Pieces, of Brass gilt, but the rest is very entire. The sixteen ancient Columns of Giallo, with two Pillars of Oriental Alabaster se∣ven foot high, the finest Agat cannot look fairer. The Venus, which might contend for the Golden Apple with that at Florence, if her Legs had not been mangl'd by that general Devourer, Time. 'Tis true, they have supply'd these Defects by the addition of new pieces, which are so admirably well fitted to the rest, that 'tis almost impossible to perceive that they have been added. The Castor and Pollux on each side of their Mother Leda, all of one piece of Marble; the Sons are bigger than the Mo∣ther, and she has but one of her Eggs. The Altar of Bacchus of fine white Marble, and adorn'd with excellent Sculptures in Basso relievo. I took notice of the old Silenus, who has carous'd so briskly at the Festival of his Foster-child, that

he is not able to walk without Supporters. I observ'd also the Bacchantes in the posture of mad Women, some of which are playing on Pipes, like the Fawn on the Vessel at Cajeta. In another corner there is a* 1.38 Goat flay'd alive for brousing on Father Liber's Vines; and a Boar, who is wash'd in order to be sacrific'd.

Among the Pictures, I shall only take notice of the Amours of Jupiter in the shape of a Swan, with Leda, which is one of the finest pieces of Correge. The Virgin, with the Infant Jesus, and the little St. John by Raphael, and Danae by Ca∣rachio. There are also many other Pictures by the same Hands, and some by Titian, Paul Veronese, Guido, and several other famous Ma∣sters.

It would be an endless Labour to describe all the rare Medals that we saw in this Palace, but since I promis'd to leave no subject wholly un∣touch'd, I shall only name the Otho of Brass an Egyptian Medal, which has on the reverse the Image of Serapis; the Pertinax, a little Latin Medal, on the reverse of which that Emperor is represented offering a Sacrifice; the Antoninus Pius, having on the reverse Hercules sitting and Diana standing; another Antoninus Pius, being a little Latin Medal, which has on the reverse the same Emperor crown'd by Victory and Abundance, bringing him Fruit: this Medal has been well kept, and is in very good condition, in which its value principally consists: a third little Latin

Medal of the same Antonin, which M. Bellori calls l' Anno nuovo, or the New Year, by reason of the four Letters on the reverse, A. N. F. F. which he interprets Annum novum, faustum, faeli∣cem: and the Nero, a Latin Medal, with Hercules on the reverse.

The Cicero a Brooch of Onyx being a white Head on a brown Ground, is one of the most valuable pieces in this Cabinet.

I shall pass from these Rarities to others of a different sort. In St. Sabina's Church on Mount Aventine they shew a great Stone, which the De∣vil of Colen hurl'd from the top of the arched Roof, with a design to knock out poor St. Domi∣nic's Brains: which he did out of spight, if our Informers do not bely the Devil, because he had fail'd in his attempt to beat down the Chapel of the Three Kings.

Regum Reliquias quas sancta Colonia servat, Cum torvus Satanas laedere non valuit: Orantem voluit Sanctum trucidare; sed ecce, Declinat rupes, & Patriarcha valet.

Beelzebub spied a holy Bone, Which set his Guts a grumbling; He leer'd, but durst not filch, for one Who o'er his Beads lay mumbling, Pox take the Rogue, cry'd Pug, e're I Be starv'd, I'll spoyl his Whoring: But Satan hurl'd the Stone awry, And Dominic 'scap'd a scowring.

You have heard of the* 1.39 Crucifix at St. Paul's which spoke to St. Bridget; and therefore I shall only tell you, that it was made by P. Cavallini, and that this is not the only Image in Rome that has learn'd to prattle. Another Crucifix at St. Mary Transpontin's has discoursed several times with St. Peter and St. Paul: And our Lady† 1.40 of S. Cosme and Damian chid S. Gregory very sharply for passing by without saluting her: Besides, I know two others at St. Mary's the Empress, and St. Gregory's on Mount Celio, whose Tongues upon occasion have wagg'd very briskly: and how many more, d' ye think, there are whom I do not know? There are others also who have wept and bled, at St. Mary's of Peace, St. Mary's in Vallicella, and another St. Mary's call'd del Pian∣to; besides that in the Church of the Holy Ghost, which shed whole Floods of Tears a little before the last sacking of Rome, insomuch that all the Monks in the Convent could hardly dry its Eyes.

If you desire a more particular account of St. Gregory's Adventure with the Image that found fault with his clownishness, you will find the Story in the following Verses, which some ascribe to the Abbot Joachim, and others to the Venerable Bede; however, 'tis certain that the Author of 'em was very little acquainted with St. Gregory, yet I hope they may serve to divert you.

Heus tu! quo properas, temerarie Claviger! heus tu! Siste gradum. Quae reddita vox mihi percutit Aures? Quis Coeli Regis me sceptra vices{que} gerentem Impius haud dubitat petulanti laedere lingua?

Siste gradum; converte oculos, venerare vocantem. O mirum! O portentum! effundit imago loquelas! (At forte illudunt sopitos somnia sensus) Mene vocas? O Effigies! hanc labra moventem, Flectentem{que} caput video. Quid quaeris, Imago! Nomen, Imago, tuum liceat cognoscere. Mater Sancta tui Domini, libidine est ignota Gregori? Virgo parens, ignara tori, taclus{que} virilis; Regia Progenies; Rosa mystica; Faederis Arca; Excelsi Regina Poli; Domus aurea; sponsa Tonantis, Justitiae speculum & Clypaeus; Davidica Turris; Janua Coelorum, tibi ne est ignota Gregori? Ignaro veniam concede, insignis Imago. Virgo Maria priùs nunquàm mihi visa: loquentem Nunquam te prius audivi: quis talia vidit? Parco lubens: posthac sed reddere verba salutis Debita, mente tene. Quò te nunc semita ducit? Supra Altare tuum, Missam celebravit odoram Presbyter Andreas; animam liberavit, & ecce, Impatiens Semicocta jacet prope limina clausa Gurgitis, ille viam petit à me. Perge Gregori.

Image.

Hark ye, Mr. Turnkey, whither so fast, you boldface you?

Pope.

What prophane noise invades my sacred Ears? Who dares revile with his unhallow'd tongue The great Vicegerent of the King of Heaven?

Image.

Stop, turn thy Eyes, and worship her that calls thee.

Pope.

O Miracle! O Prodigy! a speaking Image! Some Dream perhaps my drowsie Senses cheats: No, 'tis no Dream; but didst thou call me, Image? What art thou? or, what wouldst? speak, I conjure thee.

Image.

Dost thou not know the Mother of thy Lord; The Virgin-Mother never touch'd by Man; Offspring of sacred Princes; Mystic Rose; Ark of the Covenant; Queen o'th' Starry Sky; Temple of Gold; the Thund'rers much-lov'd Spouse; Mirror and Shield of Justice; David's Tower; The Gate of Heaven; dost thou not know her Gregory?

Pope.

Pardon, illustrious, sacred, much-wrong'd Image; Forgive an Injury ignorantly done My Ignorance caus'd; let it excuse my Crime. I never saw thy glorious Face before, Nor ever heard thy Heav'nly Voice till now: What Mortal ever saw or heard such Won∣ders?

Image.

I do forgive thee, willingly forgive thee; But ask not pardon for a second Error: Still with a decent Salutation greet Me, in thy passage.—Whither was thy Journey?

Pope.

My Brother Julio lately on thy Altars Aton'd Heav'ns Anger, sav'd a Soul; and lo, The half-boyl'd Ghost, impatient of delay, Lies at the close-shut Gates of Paradise, And, longing, waits my coming for admit∣tance.

Image.

Go thy ways, Gregory.

The rarest Picture in Rome is at S. Syl∣vester's, in the Field of Mars, which is an * 1.41 Image of Christ, done, as they say, by him∣self.

If you desire Relicks, I can furnish you with some that are very curious. The Ark of the Covenant, Moses and Aaron's Rods, and the Fore-skin of Christ, are kept at S. John de Lateran. One of the pieces of Money that Judas receiv'd, the same person's Lanthorn, by the good leave of another Pretender at S. Denis in France, and the Cross of the St. Good Thief are at the Church of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, with the Tail of Balaam's Ass, and St. Paul's Thorn. And S. Roch's Bowl may be seen at S. Marcel's. They tell us also, that some Beams of the Star that conducted the Wise Men were formerly preserv'd, with the Horns of Moses; but 'tis long since these Rays were eclipsed or evaporated, as well as the sound of the Jerusalem Bells; and Moses's Horns were transported to Genoua, where (if we may be∣lieve the common report) they are still safely preserv'd.

The Navel of Christ is at S. Maria del Popolo: The story of that Church's Foundation is very pleasant. In the very place, say they, where it now stands, there was formerly a large Walnut-tree, on the Branches of which a great many Devils did constantly perch, to guard the Ashes of Nero, that were enclos'd in an Urn near that place. Now, the People, as you must needs suppose, were extreamly plagu'd by such trou∣blesome Neighbours. Pope Paschal II, mov'd with compassion at their Miseries, endeavour'd by Fasting and Prayer to drive away this Hel∣lish Fry; and it was reveal'd to him, That he must pull up the Tree by the Roots, and in the very same place erect a Church to the Honour of Mary. This Advice was put in exe∣cution

with a great deal of solemnity; all the People contributed to the work, which gave occasion to the Name of St, Mary of the People.

I must also say something of* 1.42 S. James Shake-horse, where they show the Stone† 1.43 on which Christ was circumcis'd, with the impression made by one of his Heels upon the Marble; and also‖ 1.44 another Marble Table, on which Abraham design'd to have sacrific'd his Son. The Empress Helena, says the Story, sent these bulky Relicks to be plac'd in St. Peter's Church; but as soon as the Waggon came over-against St. James's, the Horses stopp'd suddenly, and could not be made to go one step further: This unexpected Freak of theirs, you must needs think, surpriz'd the Drivers, but they perceiv'd at last that the Stones were really grown heavier, which made 'em imagine that these Relicks had a secret inclination to lodge at St. James's, rather than at St. Peter's. At first indeed this Fancy did not appear very reasona∣ble; but there being by chance one in the com∣pany who remember'd that St. Paul calls St. James as well as St. Peter, The Pillar of the Church, they were all confirm'd in the Belief, that this Acci∣dent was not brought to pass without some mysterious design: However, tho' all the Buf∣falo's in Italy had been there, the Waggon would have sooner pull'd them backwards than they could have drawn it forwards; and there∣fore they were e'en forc'd to leave 'em at St. James's; and to preserve the memory of so great a Miracle, they gave that Saint the sir∣name of Shake-horse.

You have reason to believe that I have had the Curiosity to hear some of their Preachers; neither are you deceiv'd when you suspect, that I am no Admirer of their way of* 1.45 Preaching, and, you might have added also, of their Ser∣mons. The Preachers here, generally speaking, are meer makers of wry Mouths and ug∣ly Faces. They have indeed some natural Endowments that have a tendency to some parts of Oratory, but they are per∣fectly ignorant of sublime Elo∣quence. All their Motions are extravagant Agitations of the Body, or apish Tricks; the variation of the Tone of their Voice throws 'em from the loudest Treble to the lowest Base twenty times in a quarter of an hour; and their Discourses have neither Strength nor Gravity. They bawl, they tor∣ment themselves, their Pulpits are for the most part like so many Balconies, where they run about with a great deal of Noise and Hear, but there is neither Senee nor Reason in all this. They are perfect strangers to that admirable way of pronunciation, which by an agreeable and well-order'd mixture of softness and vehe∣mency does at once charm, and move, and ra∣vish the Souls of the Hearers: And besides, their whole Discourses do usually consist of a ridiculous Medley of insipid Jests and childish Tales. I heard a Carmelite the other day, who

in a Sermon that he preach'd before the penitent Whores of the Holy Cross, concerning Mary Magdalen, set his Fancy on a furious gallop. In order to display the Merit of that Sacrifice which his Penitent made of the Pleasures of the World, he spent at least a quarter of an hour in paint∣ing her forth as the most charming Creature under Heaven. He forgot not the least Feature of the compleatest Beauty, and spoke rather like a skilful Painter than a Preacher. Perhaps also he imitated Perrin del Vague, who was wont al∣most always to make the Picture of his Mistriss, when he had a mind to describe any beautiful Lady in a History.

You must address your self to some other person for a satisfactory Answer to that Que∣stion which you propose, Whether there are more Curtezans at Rome or at Venice. I must acknowledge I do not see so many of 'em here as at Venice: but that is no Argument of their scarcity, especially since I am assur'd by several persons that their* 1.46 number is almost infinite. As bold an Undertaker as Sixtus V. was, and how eagerly soever he strove to purge Rome of that kind of Cattel, you know he was never able to compass his Design; and even after he had banish'd the lewdest of 'em, he was forc'd to re∣call 'em, and settle e'm again, with as much so∣lemnity as they had been by his Namesake Six∣tus IV. This was done, they say, to prevent greater† 1.47 Disorders. St. Paul says, That 'tis bet∣ter to marry than to burn; the Romans indeed are

not willing to burn, but they find the best Ex∣tinguishers at the Bawdy-house.

This puts me in mind of the ancient Picture of a Wedding at the Aldobrandin Palace: 'Tis a piece of a* 1.48 Frize, which has been brought hither with that part of the Wall on which it is painted. It is a famous and much valued piece, both for its Antiquity, and the excellency of the Workmanship. You know that the Cere∣monies of Marriage were very different, and subject to many alterations among the Romans: here the Bride is seated on the side of the Bed, whereas she was sometimes wont to sit on a Sheep's Fleece, or on a Figure of the God Priapus; she bows down her Head, and coun∣terfeits a certain Grief and Coyness, whilst a † 1.49 Matron with a smiling countenance comforts, instructs, and perswades her, and labours to make her sensible of her Duty. The Bride∣groom, crown'd with Ivy, and undress'd, sits near the Bed, with a brisk Air, waiting with a great deal of impatience, I warrant ye, till his whining Spouse has made an end of all her simperings. In the mean time four or five Maids are busied in several places, in prepa∣ring Baths and odoriferous Oyntments; and a She-Musician plays on a Harp, whilst another seems to sing some Hymen io, O Hymenaee, some Epitha∣lamium or luscious Song to dispel the Charms.

The Pictures on the Pyramid of Cestius, and the above-mention'd Frize, are the only Remains of the Ancient Painting which I have yet seen in Rome. I doubt not but this Mau∣soleum of Caius Cestius has been already describ'd; yet since 'tis a very rare and beautiful Monu∣ment,

I cannot forbear giving you some ac∣count of it. The Pyramid is square, and ends in a very sharp point; it is a hundred and twenty foot high, and ninety four foot broad at the Base. The Body of the Monument is of Brick, but cover'd over with square pieces of white Marble. It was repair'd by Alexander the Seventh, in the year 1673, and almost en∣tirely restor'd to its primitive Beauty. It ap∣pears, by the fair* 1.50 Inscriptions that are still to be seen upon it, that it was erected in memory of† 1.51 C. Cestius, one of the seven Officers who were appointed to take care of Religious Feasts. We enter'd this Mausoleum by a low and nar∣row passage, which pierces thro' the thickness of the Building to the middle of it, where we found a little arch'd Room nineteen foot long, thirteen broad, and fourteen foot high. This Chamber is plaister'd over with a certain white and polish'd Mortar, on which there are still seen several Figures of Women, Vessels, and other Ornaments. I will not undertake to de∣scribe all these things particularly; much less will I attempt to write a Dissertation on so diffi∣cult a subject; I will only tell you, that ha∣ving had the fortune to discourse several times with learned Antiquaries concerning these Pi∣ctures, I found their Opinions very different: some pretend, that in respect to the Monument they represent the Preparatives for a Funeral Show; and others think, that they contain a representation of a Banquet, as a Memorial al∣luding to the Office of the Deceas'd. One of the Figures holds a Vessel, in which some pour Lustral Water, and others Wine Another Figure

bears great Pipes, which, according to the first Opinion, were design'd for Mirth, and accor∣ding to the last, for Mourning; and both the disagreeing Parties pretend, with equal proba∣bility, to confirm their Suppositions by this Di∣stick in Ovid's Fasts:

Cantabat Fanis, cantabat Tibia Ludis, Cantabat moestis Tibia funeribus.

The Pipe, with sov'raign and resistless Art, In Temples, fans Devotion's sacred Fire; With Songs it warms, with Dirges chills the Heart, While those expel the Grief which these inspire.

But one thing especially seems to confirm the latter Opinion, if I may be permitted to declare my Thoughts on this subject, namely, That the Habits of the Figures are of several colours, which does not at all agree with the Funeral Ceremonies that were us'd in those times. It appears by the Inscription of a Pedestal that was dug up near the Pyramid, and on which a Statue of Cestius seems to have been plac'd, that this Roman dy'd in the beginning of Augu∣stus's Reign; and those who have enquir'd in∣to the Customs of that Age, assure us, that the Women who assisted at Burials were cloth'd in white, and that the Fashion of Mourning in black was abolish'd about the beginning of Caesar's Dictatorship. Besides, I know not what should hinder me from adventuring to main∣tain that these Pictures were only design'd for an Ornament of the Tomb, without regard ei∣ther

to Feast or Funeral. The Sepulchre of the Nase's, so exactly describ'd by Mr. Bellori, is also full of Histories and other Ornaments, which are the meer product of the Painter's Fancy. And the same Observation may be made concerning several other Tombs, and espe∣cially Urns, which are adorn'd with Sculptures in basso relievo, that represent an infinite num∣ber of indifferent things.

The durableness of these Pictures, and the lasting beauty of their Colours, deserve to be consider'd. You know that* 1.52 Painting in Oyl is a late Invention; and it appears that the Colours on this Monument have been only moi∣sten'd with Water, and even do not penetrate the Plaister; tho' there are some places in which they seem to have lost nothing of their first liveliness.

This Pyramid is Two hundred paces distant from the little Hill commonly call'd il Doliolo, or Monte Testacio, that is, The Hill of Potsheards. This Hillock is about half a mile in compass, and a hundred and fifty foot in perpendicular heighth. Those who treat of such Curiosities differ much in their suppositions concerning this great heap of broken Pots, but the most general Opinion is this: The Hillock being near the Tiber, 'tis suppos'd that all the Potters wrought in this place, both for the nearness of the Wa∣ter, which is of necessary use in their Employ∣ment, and for the conveniency of transporting their Ware. 'Tis also believ'd that they threw all the broken pieces of their Vessels into one place; and this supposition is confirm'd by ano∣ther Conjecture, That they might have an

express Order for so doing, to prevent the inun∣dation of the River on that side. And they conclude, that if we consider the vast number of Idols, Ornaments of Temples, Bathing-tubs, Statues, Vats, Tyles, and all sorts of Vessels that were made in the great City of Rome, it will not appear strange, that the above∣mention'd Hillock was rais'd out of their Frag∣ments. This supposition seems reasonable at the first view, but, in my opinon, it is not well grounded, because the Authors of it have not examin'd the matter with due attention.

Some Wine-Merchants have thought fit to dig Cellars under this Hill, to preserve their Wines cool: and I have been present several times, and in several places, when they were at work in digging these Caves, so that I had both Time and Opportunity to consider all that they drew out of them, yet I could never find any Fragments of Images, Tyles, or Orna∣ments, nor any Remainder, or the least appea∣rance of those things that I mention'd. And in more than twenty Cartloads of these broken pieces, I observ'd only Fragments of Urns, or at the least of Vessels that seem'd to have been Urns; which being suppos'd, we must proceed to establish more probable Conjectures.

'Tis well known, that in ancient times only the poorest sort of People were buried with∣out the City, in certain Pits call'd Puticuli. The Custom of burning dead Bodies continu'd very long, during which time there was made a prodigious quantity of Earthen Urns for the ordinary sort of people; and 'tis impossible to conceive that all the care that was taken to pre∣serve

'em could prevent their being frequently broken. May it not then be suppos'd, that out of reverence to those Vessels, which had been employ'd to so sacred an use, and might still contain some part of the Ashes of the Dead, that superstitious people esteem'd it a Duty of Religion to gather all these Fragments, and lay 'em in heaps together? Neither should such a Custom appear strange to us, since 'tis so little different from the common practice of Christians at this very day: for, instead of suffering the Bones of deceas'd persons, that are dug up when a new Grave is made, to be scatter'd about, do we not endeavour to preserve 'em with some sort of Honour and Respect, by piling them up in heaps?

Since the Reputation of the famous* 1.53 Pasquin makes you desirous to be inform'd more parti∣cularly concerning him and his Companion Marforio, I will endeavour to satisfie your Cu∣riosity. The first is a mangl'd and disfigur'd Statue, which, some think, was made for a Roman Souldier; it stands leaning against the Wall of a House, at the† 1.54 corner of a place where several Streets meet. I know not whe∣ther you have heard of that pleasant Answer which Alexander VI. is said to have given to those who advis'd him to throw Pasquin into the Tiber, because of the continual‖ 1.55 Satyrs which

[illustration] depiction of Pasquino

Pasquin

Vol. 2. P. 54.

Pazzia Sapienza

••o dico Altrifanno

••e Diis quidem parco

••on dir mai mal Sevoi viver ••n Corte

〈◊〉〈◊〉 comio sto 〈◊〉〈◊〉 cantar unpoco il vero

Vivere qui sancte cupitis,discedite Româ:Omnia cum liceant,non licet esse bonus.

[illustration] depiction of Marforio

Marforio

Vol. 2. P. 55

that critical Statue made against him;* 1.56 I should be afraid, said he, lest it should be turn'd to a Frog, and trouble me both day and night with its croaking.

Marforio is another maim'd Figure, by some said to have been a Statue of Jupiter, or, accord∣ing to others, of the Rhine, or of the Nera, which passes by Terni; but all this is uncertain, as well as the Etymology of the Names of our two Censurers. 'Tis very probable that it was formerly the Mode to affix the Pasquinades on the Statue of Pasquin, but that Custom is laid aside, and all the Satyrical Invectives are still father'd on Pasquin, tho' they never come near him. 'Tis usual to make him answer the Questions that are propos'd to him by Martorio, which stands in one of the Courts of the Capitol.

The Apophthegms of this sincere and impar∣tial Statue put me in mind of those which I read at the Villa Benedetti; all the Walls of that House are lin'd with Proverbs and Sentences on all subjects, some of which I transcrib'd, and have here subjoyn'd.

Chi non s'avventura, non ha ventura. He that nothing ventures, nothing wins.

Regia, crede mihi, res est succurrere lapsis. To succour the distress'd, is soveraign Virtue.

Inter cuncta, leges, & percunctabere Doctos, Qua ratione potes traducere leniter aevum. Consult the Dead and Living wise, And square your Life by their Advice.

Per mangiar assai, convien mangiar puoco. He that would eat much, must eat little.

Cum fata sinunt Vivite laeti,— Stygias ultro quaerimus undas. Let's live while we may, And husband to day, E're we have pass'd its Noon; For we may prodigally waste, But never can enjoy too fast A Life that ends so soon.

Splendida magnificis Paupertas regnat in Aulis. Courtiers are but gaudy Beggars.

Chi paga debito, fà capitale. He that pays his Debts gets an Estate.

Qui procul à curis, ille laetus: Si vis esse talis, Esto ruralis. Mirth and Care can ne'r agree Where this is absent, that appears; The Country only boasts to be The Seat of Mirth, and void of Cares.

Donna virtuosa, non sà star otiosa. A virtuous Lady can never be lazy.

Si qua voles aptè nubere, nube pari, Elige cui dicas, Tu mihi sola places?

How happy's the Man, and how happy is she Who are equally yok'd, and wou'd never be free?

Vive tibi, & longe Nomina magna fuge. Let not Ambition rob thee of thy self.

Donna che duona, difficilimente è buona. A Woman that gives is easily gotten.

Si Fortuna juvat, caveto tolli. Si Fortuna tonat, caveto mergi. When Fortune shines, let not its Beams Raise Vapors in thy Breast; Nor let its thund'ring Hurricanes Disturb thy peaceful Rest.

Fortiter ille facit, qui miser esse potest. That man is brave who dares be miserable.

Ʋn nemico è troppo, & cento amici non bastano. One Enemy is too much, and an hundred Friends are not enough.

Decet timeri Caesarem, at plus diligi. A Prince displays the Glory of the Sovereign Pow'r Much in his People's Fear, in their Affection more.

Sequitur superbos, à tergo Deus. The Wrath of Heaven pursues the proud.

Grand pazzia il viver povero, per morir ricco. He's a Fool that lives poor, that he may die rich.

Quis Dives? qui nil cupiat: Quis pauper? Avarus. What Man is happy, great and rich? He that nothing doth desire: And who's a miserable Wretch? He who still does more require.

Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil. He that can hope for nothing, should despair of nothing.

Pax optima rerum: Pax Materia Gaudii, Dulce Paeis nomen, Candidas pax homines, trux decet Ira feras. Lasting Bliss and true Delight Peace, and only Peace imparts: While jarring Brutes contend and fight, Let humane Minds seek humane Arts.

Nobilitas sola est at{que} unica Virtus. Virtue alone is true Nobility.

Omnes una manet Nox Et calcanda semel via Leti. 'Tis appointed for all Men once to dye.

I'm sorry that I cannot relate to you so many Wonders of Tivoli and Frescati as you seem to expect. They are indeed very pleasant places, and rather than give offence, I will e'en adven∣ture to call 'em fine places. But, if once this Maxim be establish'd, That when we consider things which are reputed beautiful, we ought

to proportion the Esteem that we have for 'em, by comparing 'em one with another; as, the beauty of Roses and Gilliflowers does so darken the fainter lustre of a Field-Daisie, that we pass by it without reflexion. If, I say, this Principle be laid down, I must sincerely ac∣knowledge, that if we compare Frescati to Ver∣sailles, or even to several other pleasant Seats in France, that are not Royal Houses, I am per∣swaded, and dare positively affirm, that the ce∣lebrated Wonders not only of Frescati, but also of Tivoli, and all the most beautiful places about Rome, I mean as to Gardens and Water-works, deserve no higher Title than that of Pretty Toys.

Frescati is a very small Town,* 1.57 seated on the Brow of a Hill, twelve miles from Rome. There are several Houses of Pleasure in it, of which the three principal are Monte-dracone, belonging to the Prince Borghese, Belvedere to the Prince Pamphilio, and the Villa Ludovisia to the Dutchess of Guadagnola the Constable Colonna's Sister; and all deserve no more to be compar'd to Versailles, than Frescati to Rome, or two or three Trees to a fine Landskip.

Monte-dracone is a large Structure, situated on a rising Ground, from which you may dis∣cover Rome and the whole extent of the inter∣jacent Plain; but that City is at too great a distance to be seen from hence with pleasure, and the Verdure of the Plain is too uniform and unadorn'd with that variety of Beauties with which a Landskip ought to be embellish'd. The view of Paris from S. Clou is infinitely

more charming. 'Tis true, the Prospect is more diversify'd on the side of Monte-Porcio, but 'tis also much more limited. The Avenues of this House are very difficult; and, to speak plainly, there are at present neither Fountains nor Gardens about it, that merit a particular de∣scription.

The situation of Belvedere is not unlike to that of Monte-dracone. There is a pretty Cas∣cade in it, and a Grotto, where you may see Apollo with the Nine Muses on Mount Parnassus. We were inform'd, that all these Statues play'd on Pipes, when the Machins were in order.

The Cascade at the Villa Ludovisia is also the principal Ornament of its Garden. The Fur∣niture of all these three Houses is mean; and every thing about 'em appears neglected.

* 1.58Tivoli is another little Town, seated on a Hillock, eighteen miles from Rome; the Duke of Modena has a House of Pleasure in it, which is commonly call'd the Cardinal d' Este's Palace, because it is set apart for the use of the Cardi∣nals of that Family, when there are any. This Palace is large, and makes a handsom show, but has neither fine Apartments nor Furniture. The greatest Rarities that it can boast of, are three Chambers painted in Fresco, by Raphael, with some ancient Statues. The Garden is not very large, but it is embellish'd with pleasant Terras-walks and Water-works, which far exceed those at Frescati, and are even thought to excel all the Works of that nature in Italy: but the greatest part of the Canals are unfortunately stopp'd, the Machins out of order, and the

whole House appears* 1.59 at present in so forlorn and neglected a condition, that 'tis impossible to behold the remainders of its Beauty with∣out a Pleasure mix'd with Grief. 'Twould be certainly very unjust to refuse the Praises that are due to a place, which if it be consider'd singly and by its self, must be acknowledg'd to have a great many Charms, and to contain a great number of Curiosities: Neither do I pre∣tend in the least to derogate from its true value: My design is only to give a just Idea of it, and to remove those Prejudices with which ma∣ny persons are possess'd concerning it. I will not strive to refute the Opinion of those who believe that the Gardens and Water-works of Italy did formerly surpass those of France; but since the Face of Affairs is alter'd, we ought also to change our Language. I must confess I was strangely surpriz'd at the sight of the tri∣fling Curiosities of this Country, after I had heard the Water-works of Italy so extravagant∣ly commended, as if there had been nothing in the Universe that could with Justice be compar'd to 'em. They tell us, that the Palace and Gardens of Este cost Three millions, and I will not pretend to contradict 'em, but I must beg leave to assure them, that Versailles has incom∣parable Beauties; that the Water-works of that place exceed a million of such as those that are at Tivoli; and that the very Lead of the Canals at Versailles cost ten times more than all Tivoli.

The Cascade of the† 1.60 Treverona is the most remarkable thing in this little Town. This River forms a very large and pleasant Pool,

but the Fall is not very high. Not far off are the Ruins of an ancient Building, said to have been the Sibyl's* 1.61 House; but that is a fabulous Story, which might be refuted by good Argu∣ments. There are in the Court two ancient Statues of a reddish Granite speckl'd with black, which, in M. Spon's Opinion, do both represent the Goddess Isis. The same Author supposes that Adrian caus'd 'em to be brought from Egypt to adorn his Pleasure-house at Tivoli.

The Hill of Tivoli has furnish'd, Time out of Mind, the greatest part of the Stones that are us'd at Rome. This Stone is usually call'd Travertin, by corruption of the word Tyburtin. The Collisea was cover'd all over with it, and the Front of S. Peter's Church is built with the same. 'Tis plain, that this Stone is excellent for some uses, but it is yellowish and porous, and your Portland Quarry, as well as those at Paris and Caen, are better for service.

These Quarries put me in mind of a memo∣rable Accident related by Alexander Tassoni, in his Various Thoughts, an account of which will not be unpleasant to you. Not many days† 1.62 ago, says that Author, the Workmen that were em∣ploy'd to dig Stone at Tivoli, having cleft a great Mass, observ'd in the middle of it an empty space, in which they found a living Crayfish that weigh'd four pounds, which they boyl'd and eat. I have read in another‖ 1.63 Alexander, That he found a wrought Diamond in the heart of a great piece of Marble, and a considerable quan∣tity of sweet and odoriferous Oyl in another piece of like Marble. Tassoni also relates, That the same year a Cat suckl'd a Rat in Tivoli. If

these Stories were well attested, I believe you would not be less pleas'd with 'em than with the Cascades in the Gardens of Este.

Three miles from Tivoli,* 1.64 in our way home∣wards, we pass'd by a little Lake call'd Lago de Bagni, or Solfatara, and by the People nam'd the Sixteen Barges, because of a like number of floating Islands that are upon it. It resembles a Pond, being almost round, and Two hundred paces in diameter: its Water is extream clear, and seems to be of a very blew colour. It sends forth a pretty large Brook, which, after a short and rapid course, loses it self in the Anieno. Both the Lake and Rivulet exhale a sulphureous odour, which is very strong,* 1.65 and is smelt at a great distance. The late Cardinal d' Este having in vain attempted to sound the depth of this Lake, perswaded two Divers to enter into it, one of whom was never after∣wards seen, and the other related, that he found the Water so hot, tho' at the surface it is cold, that he was not able to descend to any consi∣derable depth. The Land is dry and hollow underneath about the Banks of the Lake, as it appears by the deaf sound made by the tread∣ing of Horses upon it. 'Tis probable that the visible part of the Lake is only a narrow Mouth of a vast Abyss, which widens and extends it self under Ground very far on both sides. And I think it may be conjectur'd concerning the first Diver, that either he ventur'd too deep, and was surpriz'd by the heat of the Water, or that having wander'd into some subterraneous Gulf, he struck his Head against the impend∣ing Arch, instead of rising at the Mouth of

the Lake. But not to insist upon the first con∣jecture, we must necessarily conclude, that the Body was carried into some subterraneal Vault, since it never afterwards appear'd on the surface of the Water.

On the Bank of this Lake we saw certain old Ruins, which Antiquaries call the Baths of Agrippa. The largest of the floating Islands makes a perfect Oval, and is about fifteen foot long; they are still crowded together on that side whither the Wind drives 'em; and the least touch puts 'em in motion. Two of our Company went into one of the smallest of 'em, and push'd it from the Land only by thrusting against the Bank with the points of their Swords.

I have several other Observations to commu∣nicate to you concerning the principal Houses of Pleasure in Rome, tho' I do not design to describe 'em particularly, as I intimated to you before.

The Villa Borghese is, in my Opinion, kept in better order than any that I have hitherto seen. 'Tis certainly a very pleasant place, and fit for a great Prince. The House is almost cover'd over on the out-side with Antique Basso relievo's, which are dispos'd in so natural an order, and with so much Symmetry, that you would be tempted to think they had been purposely made to fill those places where they are now set. Of all that multitude of Statues with which the Apartments of this Palace are re∣plenish'd, I shall only take notice of the* 1.66 Gla∣diator, of which you have a Copy in Brass at the

end of the Canal in St. James's Park, the Juno of Porphyry, Romulus's Wolf of fine red Mar∣ble of Egypt, the Busts of Hannibal, Seneca, and Pertinax, the Hermaphrodite, and the old Silenus holding Bacchus in his Arms.

The David throwing a Stone out of a Sling at Goliah, the Aeneas carrying his Father, and the Transformation of Daphne, are three mo∣dern Pieces made by Bernin, which deserve to be rank'd among the first. It would be an endless Labour to enumerate all the fine Pictures. The St. Anthony, by Caracchio, and the Dead Christ, by Raphael, are esteem'd the two prin∣cipal.

I cannot forbear repeating once more, That the Villa Borghese is a delicious place. If all the Royal Magnificency which adorns some other places does not appear in this with so much Splendor, yet it must be acknowledg'd, that its Beauties are more soft and charming, such ten∣der and natural Beauties as touch our Hearts more sensibly, if they do not inspire us with so much awe. And even I will add, That Rome being the Source of Antique Statues and Scul∣ptures, some of which are inimitable, all the rest of the World must yield the precedency in this point to the House of a Roman Gentle∣man.

As we were walking in the little Flower-Garden, the Gardner made us take notice of a double white Hyacinth, the Root of which, he assur'd us, cost Five hundred Crowns a year be∣fore. I know that Tulips have been sold in Flanders for Four or Five hundred Pistols, so great was the Fondness that some Persons had

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

for these Flowers. We need not longer won∣der at the great price of Jewels, since the least durable Beauties in the World are valu'd at so high a rate.

The Villa Ludovisia is very much out of re∣pair, by reason of the absence of the Prince of Piombino, who is Lord of it. There is a pro∣digious multitude of ancient Statues to be seen in this place. The Faustina in love with a Gla∣diator, whom she embraces before he goes to fight; the two Gladiators, one* 1.67 expiring, and the other resting himself; the Statues of Bacchus, Mercury, and Concord, are all admirable Pieces. The best Pictures have been carried to other places, with the richest Furniture; yet they shew'd us a Bedsted enchas'd with several sorts of precious Stones, to the value, as we were inform'd, of Twenty thousand Pistols, but at present 'tis out of order. In the same Chamber we saw a heap of Bones which, they assur'd us, was the Skeleton of a petrefy'd Man; but they are mistaken, for the Bones are not turn'd to Stone, only they are cover'd over with a candy'd Film, or stony Crust, which has given occasion to their Error: Not that I imagine Bones uncapable of Petrefaction, as well as other things, for I believe there is nothing in the World that may not be subject to such an alteration. In the several Cabinets of Curiosi∣ties that I have seen in my Travels, I have observ'd a prodigious Variety of petrefy'd Bo∣dies, Fruits, Flowers, Trees, Wood, Plants, Bones, Fishes, Bread, pieces of Flesh, and Ani∣mals of all sorts. Pareus relates an Instance of a Child that was turn'd to a Stone in the

Mother's Belly: And which is far more sur∣prizing, we are inform'd by the Histories of our Age, that an entire* 1.68 City in Afric was pe∣trefy'd in one night, with Men, Beasts, Trees, Houshold Furniture, Tools, and every thing that was in the Town, without exception.

The Villa Chigi abounds with little Water∣spouts, which never fail to besprinkle the Cu∣rious, if they do not take care to prevent those Showers, by feeing the Gardener when they enter. There is also a Cabinet of Curiosities, of which the little Adrian of Oriental Jasper is the most celebrated Piece.

The great Alleys of the Villa Montalto or Sa∣velli, with its Statues and Pictures, make it vye with the finest Country-houses about Rome. Here is still to be seen Sixtus the Fifth's little grey Chamber, while he was yet only Cardi∣nal Montalto, and, as you know, a Franciscan. The Germanicus, the Pescennius Niger, the Scipio, the Goddess Naenia, the Adonis, and the Gladia∣tor, are reckon'd among the principal Antiqui∣ties: And among the Pictures, the Dead Christ by Raphael, the S. Francis by Caracchio, the Virgin and the Bacchus by Guido, with the S. John by Pomarancia.

The Gardens of the Villa Pamphili, would be in my Opinion the fairest that I have seen, if they were kept in better order: for here I ob∣serv'd a more judicious design, more Symme∣try,

and a more regular disposition of all the Parts than any where else. The House is adorn'd on the outside with fine Antique Basso relievo's, like that of the Villa Borghese, and it is no less replenish'd within; but the best Statues were very much disorder'd by an Accident which I shall relate to you. The Prince Pam∣philio, while he was yet very young, was im∣portunately sollicited by the Jesuites to enter into their Society. He was not altogether averse to this motion, and those designing Fathers em∣ploy'd all their Cunning to gain him under a Pretext of Devotion, to which they knew he was very much enclin'd. Among other Strata∣gems which they us'd, they exclaim'd loudly against the Indecency of those naked Marble Figures which he kept in this Palace; and the tender Consciences of these rigid Casuists oblig'd him at length to order several parts of these Statues to be cover'd. This poor young Prince, to humour his ghostly Fathers, caus'd Shirts of Plaster to be put on all his Marble Subjects, Men, Women, and Children. This Reformation was very grievous to some persons, especially to Painters, Sculptors, and Antiquaries, but no humane Consideration could prevail with the Priest-ridden Prince to desist from his pious de∣sign to hide so many tempting and dangerous Objects. They were all daub'd and plaster'd over without mercy, save one little Bacchus, who had the good fortune to escape this holy Fury as the young* 1.69 Lord of Force was preserv'd from that of the Parisian Massacre. A poor Ve∣nus, one of the Masterpieces of the famous Ca∣racchio was smutted all over from head to foot,

and transform'd into I know not how many Fi∣gures, which fill at present the corner of a Pi∣cture of which she was formerly the fairest Ornament.

But the Prince having at last chang'd his Mind, and being resolv'd to prefer the Com∣pany of his Princess to that of the Society, was desirous to redress all these Disorders, and to restore his good People to their ancient Privi∣leges. In pursuance of this design, he order'd the nasty Clay with which they were cover'd to be taken off; but the clumsy-fisted Masons had unfortunately mangl'd several parts of the Mar∣ble to make their Plaster stick the better; so that the greatest part of these curious Pieces were very much damag'd.

I must not forget to tell you, that I observ'd at the Villa Savelli, an unusual Figure of Abra∣ham's Sacrifice by l'Espagnolet; for, whereas Isaac is commonly painted on his Knees, and blind-folded, and his Father with a short two-handed Sword, like a Switzer's, or with a Turkish Sci∣mitar, ready to cut off his Son's Head like a Frenchman; L'Espagnolet has only given him a plain sacrificing Knife, as if he were going to cut Isaac's Throat; which certainly agrees better with the Truth of the History.

Julius Romanus was the Architect of the Duke of Parma's House of Pleasure, commonly call'd Vigne Madame. This Building is neither great nor magnificent, but its beauty is regular and unaffected, and its situation extreamly delight∣ful. On one side it enjoys a prospect of Rome, with several Gardens, and many pleasant Seats;

and on the other the Eye is ravish'd with a beautiful Landskip of little and well cultivated Hills: over-against it the Tiber creeps thro' the Fields and Meadows; and at a distance the Snowy tops of the Appennin do insensibly mingle with the Clouds: behind it is a shady Wood of tall Trees, adorn'd with cool and solitary Walks, which are incomparably charming. The Gar∣dens rise into Terras-walks, and want neither Fountains nor Statues.

I might add several other Observations con∣cerning the Pleasure-houses of Medicis, Matthei, Lanti, Caesarini, Justiniani, and some others; but I ought to pity you, for I'm confident you could not much longer have Patience to hear of nothing but Statues and Pictures. And besides, 'tis time to put an end to this long Scroll. I am,

SIR,

Your &c,

Rome, April 11. 1688.

LETTER XXV.

SIR,

I shall begin this Letter by answering the Questions you Propose concerning the Tiber.* 1.70 'Tis certain that this River has nothing in its self that could have render'd it so famous as it has been; and without doubt it ows the Honour it has to be so generally known, to the Reputa∣tion of that Noble City which it waters, unless per∣haps some part of its Fame may be ascrib'd to the noise which its frequent Inundations have made in the World: Nevertheless it must be acknow∣ledg'd that it has been often treated with too much contempt; the great Rivers are jealous of its Glory, and would have it pass for a muddy Brook, such as I perceive it has been represen∣ted to you. But you may rec∣kon that,* 1.71 by a general Compu∣tation, the breadth of the Tiber at Rome amounts to about three hundred Feet; and besides it is rapid and of a great depth. Sue∣tonius relates, that Augustus caus'd it to be cleans'd, and somewhat enlarg'd it's Chanel to facilitate it's Course. Other Princes have also endeavour'd to prevent the Disorders that attend it's Inun∣dations, but with little or no Success. The Sirocco

Levante, which is the South-East of the Mediterra∣nean, and is here call'd the Sea Wind, does some∣times blow with so terrible an Impetuosity, that it drives back, or at least stops, the Waters of the Tiber at it's Mouth. And when it happens at the same time, that the melted Snow of the A∣pennins swells the Torrents, which fall into that River, or the same effect is produc'd by continu∣al Rains; the Conjunction of these various Ac∣cidents must necessarily increase its Waters, and cause those Inundations, which may be term'd the Scourge of Rome, as the fiery Eruptions of Vesuvius are call'd the Scourge of Naples. There are Inscriptions fasten'd in several Places against the Walls to denote the Year and Height of the Inundations.

The Water of this River is always thick and yellowish; but if it be suffer'd to stand a whole night it grows clear and limpid, and they assur'd us also that 'tis very good. Nevertheless I per∣ceive that some Persons in all Ages have been at prodigious charge to bring other Waters to Rome, in order to which they have diverted the course of Rivers, pierc'd Mountains, and built great Aqueducts. And they continue still to make new Attempts to compass the same de∣sign. The Aqua Felice was twenty Miles di∣stant from Rome, and cost Pope Sixtus the V. near four hundred thousand Crowns to bring it thither. And 'tis probable that* 1.72 Fountain of Montorio cost a great deal more; since its Wa∣ters are brought from a much greater distance.

Since I have mention'd the Montorio, I will add some other Remarks concerning it. There is to be seen on the high Altar of the Francis∣can Church, that admirable Picture of the Trans∣figuration which is the last Work and Master∣piece of Raphael. And not far from hence they visit with great devotion, the Chapel which is built on the very same place where they believe St. Peter was crucify'd. In the middle of this Chappel they have made a deep hole where they affirm the Cross was fixt. You know what Platina and others have related that St. Peter desir'd to be crucify'd with his Head down-ward, not esteeming himself worthy to suffer in the same manner with Christ. The Picture of this Crucifixion is to be seen at St. Paul's at the three Fountains, by the hand of Guido: And in the same Church they show the Pillar, on which they pretend St. Paul was beheaded. This may serve to exercise the Wits of those Critics, who are lovers of such Curiosities, to show how a Man could be beheaded on a Pillar.

This Column puts me in mind of another, which we saw some days ago in the Cloyster of St. John de Lateran: 'Tis that on which St. Pe∣ter's Cock crew. In the same place there is another, which was cleft asunder from top to bottom on the day of the Passion. They show also the Measure of Christ's Height, to which they pre∣tend that never any Person was yet found exactly equal. And here they also keep the * 1.73Stone on which Pilat's Soldiers cast lots for Christ's Garments; the Dice, they say, are at Ʋnbriatico in Calabria. I will not trouble you with a description of the Altar, that was pierc'd

by a Host which flew out of the Hands of an Incredulous Person, nor of the other Curiosities that are to be seen under the Portico's of this Cloyster. But I cannot forbear telling you that I have seen the bor'd Chair, about which you desire to be imform'd, that was formerly made use of in the Ceremony instituted to prevent all doubts concerning† 1.74 the Pope's Sex. 'Tis a kind of arm'd Chair of one single Piece of Porphy∣ry.

Whether the Reason and End of that search gave occasion to the ancient use of this Chair; or it was made only to put the Popes in mind that they were not Gods, but Men, and subject to all human infirmities; or whether that Cere∣mony was ordain'd for both these ends together, as Platina seems to think, who speaks very obscure∣ly on this occasion, is a Controversy which I am as willing as you, to leave undecided. But as for the She-Pope I am resolv'd to take another Course, and since you have given me a fair oc∣casion to add some Reflexions to all that has been said, by so many different Persons on this subject, I must tell you freely, that I find not the least solidity either in your Objections, or any of those that have been rais'd by others against the Truth of this History.

'Tis true, some Protestant Authors have reje∣cted it as a Fable, as well as the Roman Catholic Doctors of these last Ages: Whether the For∣mer did really esteem it to be such, or were acted by a Spirit of Singularity, or a certain sort of Complaisance which might have been very well spar'd, I will not pretend to determine; but e∣very Man will have his humor: And you must not blame me, if I am resolv'd to believe my own Eyes. Let us consider the matter of Fact then, and examin the Arguments on both sides, with all possible Brevity.

I cannot perceive the least shadow of a Rea∣son, that should hinder us from ranking this Ad∣venture among an infinite number of other ex∣traordinary Events recorded in History, to which we cannot without Injustice refuse to give credit. We find* 1.75 Seventy or Eighty Authors, who have at several times related the same thing. These Authors are Men of Sense, whom no conside∣ration, either of Profit or Honour, could have prompted to make such a Declaration: Quite the contrary, the Interest of their Religion, and Fear of Punishment might have deter'd 'em from publishing that Adventure. What Folly then, or rather Madness must we suppose so many grave Authors to have been seiz'd with, which could intice 'em to invent a Fable of this na∣ture, with all the Circumstances that attend it: And what Evidence or Authority can henceforth perswade us to believe that which we never saw.

I must acknowledg it to be my Opinion, that the aiery and humorous Wit of Incredulity ne∣ver made a worse Figure than on this occasion.

But you will perhaps tell me that they do not in∣sist upon a bare Negation of the matter of Fact, but that they alledge several weighty Arguments to confirm their Opinion, which deserve to be considered, and that after a careful and serious Examination of the whole Controversie, they find reason to conclude that the History of the pretended She-Pope is an ill-contriv'd Fable.

Very well, Sir, I will hear these boasted Argu∣ments, immediatly, and perhaps confute 'em too; but first give me leave to tell you, that when a matter of Fact which does not imply a Con∣tradiction, is positively attested by sufficient Au∣thority; we must not pretend to call the Truth of the History in question, meerly on the Score of certain Criticisms, on some intricate and not com∣mon Passages in it. In the present case we pro∣duce a multitude of Authors of undoubted Cre∣dit, who confirm the Truth of our Assertion; and all your halfdifficulties can never invalidate the Testimony of so many credible Witnesses. The controversie must he decided by the force of Authorities; and whatever reluctancy you may have to confess your self foil'd, you must either quit the Cudgels or defend your self bet∣ter.

The Question is not whether it would be an easy matter at this time of the* 1.76 Day, to set the triple Crown on the Head of a disguis'd Wench. Without doubt such an Attempt wou'd be ridi∣culous; and the Non-impossibility of the success, wou'd be an ill Argument to justify the Pru∣dence of the Undertaker: But we must not rea∣son concerning what is already past, as we do of that which is still to come. We daily see

long Series's of extraordinary and unexpected Adventures, the truth of which we do not at all question, tho' none but a Mad-man would fancy himself able to atchieve such Enterprises.

'Tis certain then that the word Difficulty is e∣quivocal; and that the Arguments that are groun∣ded upon it, are for the most part meer So∣phisms. There may be a great deal of Difficulty in the performance of a thing, and yet the very same thing may be sometimes easily done, and as easily believ'd after it is done.* 1.77 The Switzer William Tell had reason to say it was a ve∣ry difficult Task to shoot down with an Arrow, the Apple that was plac'd on the Head of his Child. Yet if we consider attentively the nature of the thing, we must acknowledge there was no reason to suppose that the motion of the Arrow should be guided to any other particular part, than to the Apple. Should I desire you to find out some simple Shepherdess, and to perswade her to take a Helmet and Sword, to ask of the King the supreme Command of an Army, and after∣wards to fight and rout his Enemies, you wou'd be apt to imagin that I were either mad or had a design to abuse you. But if you call to mind the Story of the‡ 1.78 Maid of Orleans, who was both a Shepherdess and a great General; you must change your Opinion, and own that the Possibi∣lity of the thing is a sufficient Reason why you should not contradict the Truth of it.

All that has been said may be easily apply'd to our Popes; but without insisting longer on the Comparison, I challenge you to renounce all those shadows of Arguments which you ground on some pretended difficulties, if I can make it ap∣pear

that these difficulties are not unanswerable▪ and that the controverted Story is probable or 〈◊〉〈◊〉 least possible.

Rid your Self I beseech you of your unju•••• Prejudices against the Capacity of the Female Sex. A thousand Examples of lllustrious Wo∣men might suffice to convince us that it is only the want of that Education which we enjoy, that makes 'em seem incapable of the Manage∣ment of Affairs; tho there were not other Rea∣sons to force our Assent to so evident a Truth.

* 1.79Let not the Beardless Chin of Her Holiness perplex you: For a Beard has not always bee•• thought a necessary Qualification for a Pope▪ And even the Papal Throne has been sometimes fill'd by† 1.80 Youths that could not have been di∣stinguish'd from Women by their Chins. Be∣sides, you know* 1.81 Semiramis perform'd the Office of a King, in the Quality and Habit of a Man▪ and why might not our German Lady act the Pope under a like disguise. And what do you▪ or I know, whether they were not both of the number of those Virago's who have a Mascu∣line meen, and are not destitute of Beards. S•• long as your mind is full of the Idea of a Maid Young, Soft, Pleasant, Innocent, Fearful, without Knowledg and Experience, and Cloth'd as other Wo∣men are, you will never be able to lay aside your Prejudices. But if instead of that young Ideot, you represent to your self some bold Virage, some CHRISTINA with a Masculine Voice and hairy Chin; some learned, witty and daring Creature dis∣guis'dlike a Man, all your Prejudices will vanish, and you will quickly acquiesce in the Truth and Evidence of our History.‡ 1.82 And after you

have made these Suppositions which are certain∣ly very reasonable, you will find it as easy to advance a Woman so qualifi'd to the Papal Chair, as a begging Vagabond, such as Adrian the IV. or a Swine-herd like Sixtus the V. And several o∣ther Popes who have been rais'd to that Dignity from the lowest degree of Meanness.

But, you proceed, how can it seem probable that a Woman could so long hide her great Bel∣ly, and at last be so much a Fool as to expose her self to the Danger of being deliver'd of a Child in the midst of a solemn Procession.

I answer, in the first place, that probable, or not probable 'tis all one to me, so long as the thing is Possible. But secondly, as to the first part of your Objection, I say, that a Woman may contrive several ways to prevent the Discovery of such a Secret, especially when she is general∣ly believ'd to be a Man: And if any of your Friends should be troubl'd with a swelling in his Belly, would you presently imagin him to be with Child. In the third place, I shall offer two considerations in answer to what you alledge concerning the Imprudence of our Female Pope. The first is, that we sometimes meet with una∣voidable Difficulties, through which we must force a passage over all the dangers that attend 'em. And the other is, that we have no rea∣son to believe that she was come to the end of her ninth Month, when this Misfortune hap∣pen'd. 'Tis not improbable that she was deli∣ver'd before her due time, or at least the thing is possible; which being allow'd, she can neither be accus'd of Imprudence, nor we have any

reason to wonder that she was able to conceal her great Belly.

* 1.83But you tell me, that Chronologers do not agree in their calculations about the Time of this accident. 'Tis true they do not, and the rea∣son of their difference is obvious. They who expunge our Popess's Name out of the Catalogue of Popes, are oblig'd dexterously to lengthen the Lives of her Predecessors to fill up the Breach which they have made. But as you have Chro∣nological Supputations that are accomodated to your Opinion, so I have others that are agreea∣ble to mine: And therefore our Controversy must be decided by other Arguments.

The Objection which is grounded on her Voyage to Athens, under pretence that the Stu∣dies that were prosecuted there at that time, were not sutable to a young Scholar, is a meer frivo∣lous Cavil. For in the first place you suppose without the least proof, that she was a young Scholar at the time of her Voyage; and what reason can you alledge, why I may not suppose that she was old enough to be admitted among the Hearers of the Athenian Philosophers, or other Professors in that Academy? But secondly, I ob∣serve that some of those Authors who relate this History, carry her straight to Rome without men∣tioning Athens.

You will perhaps look upon this Concession as very advantageous to your Party, and reproach me with the Contradictions of my Authors; but I can easily ward this Blow. Consider, I beseech you, that the same Action as to the Main is not always related with the same Circumstances; and even Sacred History might furnish me with seve∣ral

Instances of such Variations. I acknowledg indeed, that we ought not to rely upon the Te∣stimony of a Historian who contradicts himself: but tho we should observe some circumstantial differences between two Authors who relate the same thing, but live perhaps in different Coun∣tries; we could not in Justice give these Varia∣tions the ignominious name of Contradictions, but only conclude that they were occasion'd either by forgetfulness, want of necessary Intelligence, or some Ambiguity in the Expression. Besides, if there had been a Combination of false Wit∣nesses to cheat the World, and if they had de∣liberately invented the pretended Fable of Pope Joan; they would certainly have taken better measures, and agree'd upon the Circumstances of the story. 'Tis plain then, that such petty Variations do not destroy, nor so much as wea∣ken the Credit of a Relation. A remarkable E∣vent makes a great noise in the World, and Men both talk and write variously concerning it.

Your last and (in your opinion) strongest Ar∣gument is grounded on the silence of those Au∣thors, who were Joan's Cotemporaries: This seems to make a great Impression upon you; but you must give me leave to tell you, that it is as weak and trifling as the rest.* 1.84 Marianus Scotus † 1.85Sigebert, and some other more‡ 1.86 antient Authors who relate this History, five or six hundred years ago, did probably take it from those who wrote before 'em;* 1.87 for it is not at all credible that they invented it, for the Reasons that I alledg'd be∣fore. But besides, your Argument is grounded upon a false supposition; for the Editions of

Anastasius that have escap'd Gelding give an ex∣act account of the whole story. And I must likewise add, that tho we could not find the least mention of a Female Pope in any Author of the Ninth Age, you could not from thence infer, that they were all silent in this case. For before the Invention of Printing, the Monks left no means unessay'd to suppress all that seem'd contrary to their Interest; and several other Accidents have occasion'd the loss of a great number of good Books.

Besides, we have no reason to wonder that a History of this Nature was kept very secret: since Fear and Shame were Motives strong e∣nough to impose silence on the Writers of that Age. There are some things which are never divulg'd till after a certain time; Some Princes that are detested by all the World, have been flatter'd during the Age in which they liv'd, whom Posterity, not aw'd by Fear, has* 1.88 painted forth in the most hideous colours.

After all, I cannot conceive what should make the Church of Rome so unwilling to own her She Pope, as if Monstruous Popes were Rarities. I am sure Cardinal Baronius makes no scruple to bestow that Title on a great number of 'em. And as for Vacancies, there have been some that have lasted longer than the whole time of her Ponti∣ficate: You know there was an Interregnum of almost nine Years between Nicholas the I. and Adrian the II. Nor can they want a remedy for the Nullity of Administration; for the Mini∣sters of the Court of Rome have Salves for all Sores.

But, all things being duly consider'd, I would willingly know, what it is in this Adventure that appears so strange and surprizing. Is there any Contradiction or Prodigy in it, or even any thing that is rare and wonderful? As for me, I assure you, I can perceive nothing but what is very natural and easy. If, as I intimated before, instead of an innocent Agnes, you suppose a Crea∣ture, whose Manners, Capacity, Humour and outward Behaviour represent a Man; I cannot imagin upon what grounds you can raise the least shadow of an Objection.

If I thought it necessary to imitate Henry Ste∣phen in the Introduction to his Apology for He∣rodotus, I could quickly find a sufficient number of stranger Events, than that for which I contend, to fill a whole Volume. But without wandring from the Subject of our Controversy, or leaving the Holy See, tell me, I pray you, whether any Person that were a perfect stranger to the Histo∣ry of the Popes, would suffer himself to be per∣swaded, that these Gentlemen retaining still the quality of Priests, have notwithstanding rais'd themselves to the Empire of the Christian World, and to the Power, and even the Practice,* 1.89 of distributing Scepters, treading Crown'd Heads under their Feet, inflicting ignominious Punishments upon 'em, as on guilty Slaves, and * 1.90

driving 'em out of their Kingdoms by the Ter∣ror of their Anathema's? Or could our suppos'd Stranger, d'ye think, be made to believe that some extravagant Flatterers have presum'd to ascribe to those Priests a Power to turn Virtue into Vice, and Vice into Virtue; to excommu∣nicate Angels, and to dispense with the Aposto∣lical and Evangelical Laws? I would also desire you to employ some hours in perusing the old Legends, for the new ones are not so curious; and there you will find a numerous Medley of Stories related as sacred Truths, that will not only appear incredible to you, but such mon∣strous Fables, as Posterity will hardly be in∣duc'd to believe that ever any persons in the World were capable of inventing and writing 'em.

I shall add but one word more: When People in after-Ages shall read the History of what has lately happen'd to the Protestants of France, written by a Maimbourg, a Varillas, a Bishop of Meaux, and others of that Gang, who strive to out do one-another, in exalting the sweetness and extream Moderation with which those unfortunate Creatures were us'd in that Execution; can it be suppos'd that these future Readers will believe, or even imagine that there are no Cruelties so barbarous which these poor Protestants did not suffer?

* 1.91I cannot forbear mentioning another incre∣dible Prodigy, which just now comes into my Mind. I mean the Book entitul'd, The Rates of

the Apostolical Chamber. Who could have be∣liev'd that the Vicar of Christ would com∣pose a List of enormous Crimes and unheard of Impieties, with the Price of* 1.92 Absolutions to be granted for 'em? I bought this Book three days ago in Rome. 'Tis true, they are asham'd of it, they have endeavour'd by all means to suppress it, and it is inserted in the Index Ex∣purgatorius of the Council of Trent; but the Blot will never be wip'd off; and after all these Gri∣maces, Dispensations are sold here daily.

Before I bid adieu to Pope Joan, I must not forget to put you in mind of what† 1.93 Mezeray writes concerning the Story that is the subject of our Controversie, That this Opinion was generally receiv'd as an undoubted Truth, for the space of Five hundred years.

If you desire to know the reason why the Use of this Chair is laid aside, the following Epigram by‖ 1.94 Pannonius will satisfie your Curio∣sity.

Non poterat quisquam reserantes Aetherae Claves Non exploratis sumere Testiculis. Cur igitur nostro mos hic nunc tempore cessat? Ante probat quod se quilibet esse Marem.

Or this:

Les petits Enfans qu'ils font, Sont preuves assez r••é••es, Que les Saints Peres ne sont Ni Coquatres, ni Femelles.

The Sence of both which may be thus ex∣press'd;

Of old, e're Popes had learn'd to kiss, None were (then sure they kept no Miss) Made Porters of the Bow'r of Bliss, Till Rev'rend Fist had grop'd 'em:

But now, thank Heav'n, we've surer Signs; For th' Offspring of their Sacred Loins Displays the Vigor of their Groins Before they claim the Popedom.

Pasquin's Verses on Paul II, and Innocent VIII, are much to the same purpose:

Pontificis* 1.95 Pauli Testes ne Roma requiras; Filia quam genuit sat docet esset marem. Octo† 1.96 Nocens Pueros genuit, totidem{que} Puellas Hunc merito poteris dtcere, Roma Patrem.

The Church of‖ 1.97 St. John de Lateran is very large and magnificent; She assumes also the lofty Title of the‡ 1.98 Head and Mother of all

Churches. Sixtus V. built a vast Palace near this Church* 1.99, which was never inhabited.

Near adjoyning to that Building is the Lodge call'd Sancta Scala, from the 28 Steps that were transported thither. They are of white Mar∣ble, very much worn; and they pretend that these are the Steps by which Christ ascended to Pilate's House. At present none are permit∣ted to ascend 'em but‡ 1.100 kneeling, which cannot be done without trouble; but to make amends for that, they obtain at every Step Indulgences for Three years and as many times Forty days. The Chapel at the top of the Stairs is call'd Sancta Sanctorum, or the Holy of Holies, from an Image of Christ, which, they believe, was made by Angels, and is religiously preserv'd there. I have seen this Piece, and can assure you, it is very ugly and ill shap'd. Women never enter into this most Holy place.

In our return from the Sancta Scala, we pass'd by St. Mary major, which is a vast and magnifi∣cent Structure A certain Roman Lord full of Devotion to the Virgin, being one night warn'd in a Dream to go next morning to Mount Esqui∣lin, and there to build a Church to the honour of the Mother of God, in the place where he should find Snow; and Pope Liberius having also had the same Vision, they walk'd together to the place appointed. It was on the Fifth of † 1.101August, yet they found Snow, which they re∣mov'd with their own Hands, and immediately laid the Foundations of this Temple.

You never saw any thing more rich or finely built than the Chapels of‖ 1.102 Sixtus V. and Paul V. in the last of which they preserve the

Manger of Bethlehem, and an Image of the Vir∣gin made by St. Luke, about which they have several times found Angels singing Litanies.

Not far from thence is the little Church of St. Anthony, whither all the Horses of the City are brought on that Saint's Festival, to receive a Benediction at the Door of the Church.

* 1.103But to change the Subject of my Observa∣tions, that their Variety at least may please you, I shall in the next place give you some account of our Voyage to Castel-Gandolfo. This House has nothing remarkable in it, tho' it belongs to the Pope. Cardinal H— has an Apartment in it; and sometimes goes to pass a few days there, where he may be free from the Encum∣brances of the Ceremonies of Rome, than which nothing can be more troublesome to a Cardinal.

During our short stay at this place, we took several turns into the adjacent Country: About a mile from the Castle we visited the little Town of Albano,* 1.104 where the famous City of Alba was formerly seated, extending, accord∣ing to the common Belief, from the brink of the Lake of Castle Gandolfo to the new Town of Albano; but this Opinion is controverted, and I will not undertake to decide the Question.

We saw at Albano a kind of Tower or ruin'd Mausoleum, commonly call'd the Tomb of Ascanius; but this Opinion seems only to be grounded on a very uncertain Tradition.

But I may speak more positively of another ancient Tomb near Albano, which is generally believ'd to be the Sepulchre of the Two Horatii,

and the Three Curiatii. 'Tis plain, that the Five Pyramids which are on the Tomb have given occasion to this Opinion; but this Reason is of no force, for Titus Livius expresly affirms, That the Sepulchres of these Heroes were erected in the same places where each of 'em expir'd; those of the Horatii towards Alba, and those of the Curiatii nearer Rome.

The Lake of Castel Gandolfo is, as we were inform'd, six or seven miles in compass; and the rising Grounds which environ it form an exact Amphitheater. There are two parts where the depth of the Lake cannot be sounded; but, which is more wonderful, its Waters do from time to time suddenly swell, and rise to the very top of the Banks, which doubtless proceeds from its communication with subterraneous Gulfs, that disgorge themselves into it.

Half a mile from thence, near Gensana, we saw another little Lake, call'd by the Moderns Lago di Nemi, and by the Ancients Speculum Dianae, from a Grove and Temple consecrated to that Goddess, which were formerly on the Bank of this Lake.

Between Albano and Castel-Gandolfo, we ob∣serv'd the Ruins of an Amphitheater, and were surpriz'd to behold certain great Trees among 'em, that had formerly taken root, and, in a wonderful manner, wrought a passage for them∣selves between the best cemented Stones and Bricks, which they have cleft asunder, and pierc'd the Walls, where they are grown great in spite of all opposition.

* 1.105The whole Country about Albano and Gensana is fruitful; the Wine especially and Fruits which it produces are much esteem'd. The Inhabi∣tants do still observe their ancient Custom of cultivating Leeks and Onions with a great deal of care.

Since I have already entertain'd you with an account of the Houses of Pleasure in the Neigh∣bourhood of Rome, I will also add some Obser∣vations concerning the chief Palaces in the City. But I will not insist long upon 'em, that I may avoid telling you what you know already.

The Catalogue of the Antiquities which we saw at the Palace Justiniani, amounts to 1867, and that of the rare Pictures to 638. Nero's Head, the Minerva, Venus coming out of a Bath, and the three little Cupids sleeping and leaning upon one another, are the most esteem'd Pie∣ces.

Cardinal Chigi's Palace is one of the finest Houses in Rome. All the Gates are overlaid with Antique green Marble. Among the Sta∣tues, the two Venus's, Marsias flay'd, and the dy∣ing Gladiator, are chiefly remarkable.

* 1.106You have heard, without doubt, that Michael Angelo was the principal Architect of the* 1.107 Far∣nesian Palace. The Front of this beautiful Structure is 180 foot broad, and 90 foot high. The Gates, Corner-pieces, Cross-bars of the Windows, Cornish, and all the principal Stones

were taken from the Colliseum. I shall take this occasion to tell you, that a great part of this admirable Monument has by such means been destroy'd. The great Palace of the Chancery, as well as* 1.108 St. Lawrence's Church, is almost wholly built with its spoils: and even some parts of the City-walls have been repair'd with the same. Instead of repairing and preserving those precious Remainders of Antiquity after the Example of Sixtus V, to whom Rome owes the greatest part of its beauty, some brutish per∣sons endeavour to compleat the destruction of its Ornaments. Innocent VIII. broke the Arch of Gordian to build a Church. Alexander VI. de∣molish'd the beautiful Pyramid of Scipio, to pave the Streets with its Stones. The Marble Steps which serve for an Ascent to the Church of Ara Coeli, were taken from a Temple of Romulus. St. Blaise's Church was erected out of the spoils of a Temple of Neptune; St. Nicholas's of the Soul is built out of the Ruines of the Circus agonalis; and I might easily add several other Instances.

All the World knows, that the Farnesian* 1.109 Her∣cules and Bull are two famous Pieces. The Gal∣lery by Caracchio, the Hall by Salviati, the Venus and the Adonis by Titian, are also universally known.

The Library in the Palace Altieri is numerous and in good order. The Stair-case is very fine:* 1.110 The Apartments are great, and adorn'd with rare Pictures and magnificent Furniture. Here I observ'd a Looking glass of Crystal of the Rock ten inches long, and six broad, in a golden Frame, cover'd all over with Jewels of great value.

They also magnified extreamly a little Earthen Dish, which is carefully preserv'd in a very rich Frame, as being painted by Raphael. It is of the same kind of work with those Vessels at Loretto, which I mention'd before. And I saw some more of 'em here that are preserv'd with equal Esteem, or rather Veneration.

Perhaps I should not have had the Courage singly to attack that common Prejudice that puts the Reputation of Raphael in a Threepenny Dish, which he never saw or touch'd; tho' I am pretty well acquainted with the History of that Artist, and had several good Arguments to confute that Opinion. But having had the Fortune to discourse with the famous Carlo Ma∣rotti on the same subject, I dare confidently as∣sure you, that Raphael never drew a stroke on any of these Dishes, notwithstanding the great value that is set upon 'em, and the common∣ness of the contrary Opinion. I acknowledge indeed, that these Pictures have some resem∣blance to Raphael's way of working, from which we may probably infer, that either they were made by some of his Scholars, or in imitation of some of his Designs.

* 1.111The Palace Barberini, call'd the Palaestrin, is reputed to be the greatest in Rome next to the Vatican. Among its Antiquities, which are very numerous, the little Diana of Oriental Alabaster is particularly esteem'd. The Tullia, Daughter of Servius Tullius, and Wife of Tarquin the proud, is a very rare Piece, and said to be the only one of the kind in Rome. I observ'd also the God Osiris, with his Hawk's Head on a Human Body, which was found with the Obelisk of Mi∣nerva,

under the Ruins of Isis's Temple.

In this Palace also I took notice of a Marble Bust of Pope Ʋrban VIII, which was made by a blind man, and yet is the best Representation we have of that Pope.

The other Palace Barberini towards the four Fountains, is a heap of Rarities, Antiquities, and all sorts of Curiosities. They assur'd us, that its Library contains Forty thousand Volumes.

The first Halls of the Palace Colonna are adorn'd with the Pictures of* 1.112 two Popes, nineteen Cardinals, and fifty four Generals of Armies, all descended from the noble and an∣cient House of the Colonna's. There are in the same Palace nine great Apartments, Eight thousand original Pictures, a little Arsenal, Busts, antique Basso-relievo's, Statues, and a great deal of rich Furniture.

I will not insist upon the Architecture of these Palaces, for I'm perswaded I cannot inform you of any thing of that nature, with which you are not already acquainted. I think I told you before, that 'tis much more usual in this place to cover the Houses with ridg'd than flat Roofs, tho' people generally differ much in their Opinions concerning these two ways of building. Those sharp-pointed Roofs that are almost equal in heighth to the Body of the Edifice, are in some measure contrary to Rea∣son, by destroying the symmetry and decent proportion that ought to be between the whole, or at least the main body, and the other less remarkable parts of a Building. But, since you are desirous to know my Opinion, I must

tell you, that I prefer the middle way found out by our famous Mansard before your flat Roofs.

Besides, you must give me leave to entreat you to lay aside that partial Opinion you seem to have of the Roman Architecture in gene∣ral. It must be acknowledg'd, that there are in this place very beautiful Structures, both ancient and modern, but you must not imagine that every thing is in perfection; for here, as well as in other places, there are certain modes of Building peculiar to the Age and Country, and not at all conformable either to the Regu∣larity or Magnificence of Architecture.

I thank you for your excellent Remarks on those admirable Egyptian Obelisks, which are at present to be seen in this City, and ought, in my Opinion, to be reckon'd among its noblest Ornaments. I have learn'd many cu∣rious things from what you have written on this subject, and therefore am oblig'd in Justice to answer the Questions you propose, and at the same time to give the best solution I can of some of your Doubts concerning those rare Mo∣numents.

All the Obelisks in Rome are quadrangular, and end in a sharp point. They resembl'd the Rays of the Sun, that great Divinity ador'd by the Egyptians under the name of Osiris, and esteem'd by 'em to be the Habitation of Beings, Genius's, and the Souls of the Ʋniverse. Their Angles respected the four Corners of the World, and denoted the four Elements.

The Hieroglyphic Characters on these Obelisks have been suppos'd by some to contain the Elogies of some Princes, or Histories of certain memorable Transactions; and they believe that these Monuments were erected by the Egypti∣ans, both to serve for Ornaments, and to ho∣nour the Heroes of their Nation: but those who have penetrated furthest into these Myste∣ries, have, in my opinion, demonstrated clearly, that these were open Books, which expos'd to the Eyes of the publick the Secrets of their Divinity, Astrology, Metaphysics, Magic, and all the other Sciences that were cultivated by the Egyptians. 'Tis certain, that the Vulgar was not capable of unriddling the Mysteries of these Oracles; but then, as well as now, the unthink∣ing part of Mankind amus'd themselves with Shadows and Obscurities.

All these Obelisks are of Granite, which is a kind of very hard and lasting Marble, and able, as they assur'd us, to resist the Fire for a considerable time.* 1.113 Without doubt the solidity of the Matter was one of the Reasons that recommended it to their choice. The Obelisk of St. John de Lateran has subsisted Three thousand years; and that of* 1.114 St. Peter is Nine hundred years older. The first is the greatest of 'em all, being 108 foot high, without reckoning either the Pedestal or the Cross. There are also some Granites of Corsica in this place, but they have not so fine a Grain as those of Egypt. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Rome, April 24. 1688.

LETTER XXVI.

SIR,

YEsterday, upon a second perusal of your Letter, I observ'd a marginal Note that I had not taken notice of before, in which you desire me to consider what Mr. Chevreau has written concerning Pope Joan, in the second part of his History of the World, and to give you an account of my Thoughts of his Arguments against that Story, which makes me conclude that you have a good opinion of 'em. How∣ever, Sir, I am ready to obey you; for I have read Mr, Chevreau's Book, and have made some Reflexions on that passage in it.

In the first place he acknowledges, that a considerable number of famous Authors have men∣tion'd that Story, and positively asserted the Truth of it. Now, according to the known Rules of Justice and Reason, this concession alone is suffi∣cient to decide the Controversie; for when se∣veral Witnesses of unquestion'd credit do una∣nimously attest a Matter of Fact, we are oblig'd to believe their Testimony, if the thing be possible, and we have no Evidence to the contrary, more especially if these Witnesses speak against their own Interest.

These Authorities, says Mr. Chevreau, have made a strong impression on credulous Minds▪ but the more judicious and cautious part of Mankind, relying on

the Silence of several other Authors, have examin'd and rejected this Fable. This is certainly a very strange and surprizing Maxim, Seventy or Eighty Men, who cannot with the least appearance of Justice be suspected of a Design to cheat the World, who were all of the Roman Religion, almost all Clergy men, and even some of 'em Canoniz'd Saints; all these Authors, I say,* 1.115 do positively affirm, That there was a Female Pope. Other Authors make no mention of her; and the Silence of these must invalidate the Testi∣mony of the former. May we not probably suppose, that† 1.116 Leo X. reason'd after the same manner, when he call'd the Gospel The Fable of Christ. Some Authors bear witness to the History of our Saviour; others who liv'd at the same time do not mention it, and that ju∣dicious and cautious Pope relying on the Silence of so many Writers, examin'd and rejected the Story. I will not lose time to demonstrate the weakness of this way of reasoning, it destroys it self, and does not merit a serious confutation.

Mr. Chevreau assures us, that Anastasius the Bibliothecary makes no mention of our Popess; which is also the great and boasted Argument of Onu∣phrius, but they are both mistaken; you may consult Mr. le Sueur's Ecclesiastical History, and Colomesius's Historical Miscellanies, where you will find an Anastasius of the French King's Library, containing an exact account of the Female Pope; besides two other Copies of* 1.117 the same Author at Augsburg, and one at Millain, which relate the same Story. These Books will also inform you how the Jesuits of Mentz having suffer'd only two Copies to be wrought off, conform to

the Original, had the Impudence to* 1.118 suppress all that displeas'd 'em in the rest of this Edi∣tion.

* 1.119Before I take leave of Anastasius, I must en∣treat you seriously to weigh the Authority of his Testimony. He was a man of Learning, he liv'd at Rome, and was co-temporary with our Popess: He speaks as an Eye-witness, and two words of such an Author are sufficient to destroy all the frivolous Objections and little Shifts of those who contradict the Truth of this Relation.

In the next place I shall proceed to consider Mr. Chevreau's Reflexions on† 1.120 Martinus Polonus, or the Polander, Archbishop of Cosenza, and Penitentiary to‖ 1.121 Innocent IV. M. Chevreau calls him a silly Monk, and alledges three or four poor Reasons to prove his Simplicity. Since that Monk, says he, in his Treatise of the Wonders of Rome, mistakes the Gate of Ostia, or of St. Paul, and of Capena, and St. Sebastian, for another which he calls Collina, instead (as we may probably suppose) of Collatina or Pinciana, the Pantheon for a Temple of Cybele, and the Am∣phitheater for a Temple of the Sun, we may the more easily forgive that Blunder in his History, where he mistakes a Pope for a Popess. In answer to these Reflexions, I say in the general, That tho' M. Polonus were really guilty of some Errors in giving an account of things of little impor∣tance, or in explaining some hard and obscure Questions, we could not from thence infer, that he had given us a false Relation of the Fe∣male Pontiff. He took one Gate for another, and therefore he took a Pope for a Popess, is rather a

Jest than an Argument; or, if it must pass for an Argument, it may be easily retorted upon its Author; for, I may with equal reason affirm, that if Mr. Chevreau's Reflexions on M. Polonus be false and groundless, therefore all his Argu∣ments against the Story that is the subject of our Controversie are meer Sophisms, and he mistakes a Popess for a Pope. That the Antece∣dent is certainly true, will appear from the fol∣lowing Considerations.

(1.) 'Tis plain, that Mr. Chevreau knew not that there was a Gate call'd Collina, when he wrote, That Polonus takes the Gate of Ostia, and the Gate Capena for another which he call'd Collina▪ instead of Collatina or Pinciana. But 'tis certain that Collina was the name of a Gate as well as Collatina; it took its name à Colle Quirinali, and is mention'd by Ovid;

Templa frequentari Collinae proxima portae Nunc decet; —

Fast. 4.

This Gate is now call'd Salara.

(2.) The Gate Collatina, so call'd from the Town of Collatium, is different from the Pinciana, as F. Nardin has clearly demonstrated.

(3.) Mr. Chevreau had no reason to find fault with Martinus Polonus, for calling the Pantheon a Temple of Cybele, since several learned Anti∣quaries are of the same opinion. 'Tis true in∣deed, and I think I have already told you, that Authors are not agreed in their Conjectures concerning the Denomination of the Pantheon:

But there are many who believe that it was so call'd because it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter* 1.122, and to† 1.123 Cybele the Mother of all the Gods. However, since Opinions are divided, and the Question is at the best problematical, Polonus cannot without Injustice be accus'd of an Error, for what he has written on this sub∣ject.

(4) Mr. Chevreau is not easily to be under∣stood, when he talks of the Roman Amphitheater, for there were several Amphitheaters in that City, and the Ruins of some of 'em are still remaining. I suppose he meant the great Amphitheater call'd Colliseum, which was built by Vespasian, and dedicated by Titus.

(5.) I confess I have not read Polonus's Trea∣tise concerning Rome, but 'tis very improbable that he took the Colliseum for a Temple. This is certainly too great an Absurdity to be be∣liev'd, and I vehemently suspect that some of his Expressions are misunderstood. He might indeed speak of a Temple of the Sun near that Amphitheater, but he could not possibly imagin, that the Colliseum was its self a Temple.

I must further tell you, that what you relate concerning a Manuscript Polonus which you have seen, where this Story is written on the margin, and by another Hand, does not at all reach the bottom of our Controversie. You may easily conceive that some interess'd Person having geld∣ed our Author, that Defect was afterwards sup∣ply'd

by a more equitable Hand: And thus your Manuscript is only a particular Instance, from which nothing can be concluded against the Credit of other Copies. If some person should think fit to restore the History of our Popess, by way of a marginal Note, in the mu∣tilated Copies of Anastasius, this could not de∣stroy the Authority of those Originals where the same Relation is to be found in the Text. Thus we may reasonably suppose, that the Story of Pope Joan was left out in your Manuscript, and afterwards restor'd by another Hand: And even Bellarmin confesses, that Martinus Polonus wrote the History of our Popess.

But to return to Mr. Chevreau. You may observe how much he was puzzl'd to give some probable account of the first occasion of that Controversie, since he is forc'd to have recourse to the Opinion, or rather Evasion, of Onuphrius, tho' he conceals the Name of the Author. He pretends that Pope John the Twelfth had a Con∣cubine call'd Joan, who was his Favourite, and govern'd him so absolutely, that he was usually nick-nam'd Joan. Besides, he goes further than Onuphrius; for whereas that Author speaks only conjecturally, Mr. Chevreau asserts positively, That John the Twelfth was call'd Pope Joan, because of the blind Complaisance that he had for his Concu∣bine. Onuphrius's Conjectures are meer airy No∣tions and groundless Suspicions: and Mr. Chev∣reau's Assertion is rash and precarious; he can produce no other Argument to prove, that John the Twelfth was call'd Pope Joan, but his own bare Authority; and neither Onuphrius nor he

can make it appear, that* 1.124 ever Pope John had such a Concubine. 'Tis true, they both cite Luitprand to confirm their Hypothesis, but they cite him falsly. The Name of the Widow men∣tion'd by Mr. Chevreau was Ann, not Joan; and without doubt he was ignorant that our illustri∣ous† 1.125 Du Plessis had already discover'd the For∣gery which Onuphrius made use of to strengthen his Conjecture. Besides, it may be observ'd, that this Pope John was advanc'd to the Papal Chair a hundred years after Pope Joan, which is another Absurdity that attends Mr. Chevreau's Opinion.

He adds, That the Story of the pretended bor'd Chair is not better grounded, and that the Chair is not bor'd. But, by his leave, I have seen it more than once, and if I may believe my own Eyes, it is bor'd, and that after the usual manner of Close stools. I have already told you that it is of Porphyry; but there are two of 'em, one broken and the other entire, and they are both made of the same matter, and after the same fashion.

Platina affirms positively, after* 1.126 Chalcondylas and other approv'd Authors, That the new elected Pope is plac'd on the bor'd Chair, and that the youngest Deacon thrusts his Hand thro' the hole, to feel whether he has the surest marks of Virility. Such, probably, was the primitive use of this Chair; for, what Reason could have prompted these Authors to invent such a Fable? 'Tis true, this Custom was by degrees laid aside, but they continu'd for some time to set the Popes on the same Chair, to put 'em in mind,

[illustration] depiction of chair

The Groping Chair

Vol. 2. Pag. 102

as Mr. Chevreau affirms after Fauchet, that they were still subject to the common Infirmities of Humane Nature. However, I will not insist longer upon this subject, since 'tis altogether foreign to our Controversie.

To proceed to Mr. Chevreau's last Argument, he tells us, That the Fathers of the Council of Soissons having written to Pope Leo the Fourth, to desire his Approbation, their Deputies found that he was deceas'd before their arrival, and return'd the same year from Rome to France, with the Subscri∣ption of his Successor Benedict III. You have seen with how little certainty this Author has pro∣ceeded hitherto; and his End is suitable to his Beginning, He mentions a* 1.127 Council of Soissons, without any other Mark of Distinction: He tells us a Story without the least proof, and, which is worse, he cannot prove it; for we must not rely upon the Testimonies of Sirmond and Binius, or on the Authority of the late Editions of the Councils. To prove his Asser∣tion, especially in such a doubtful Case as this, he ought to produce Manuscripts of uncontroverted Antiquity and Credit; but we must excuse him, since his Story is not to be found in such au∣thentick Originals. If he could certainly fix the time of the departure of that Council's Envoys to Pope Leo, and of their return after his death, the duration of his Pontificate might be also determin'd, which none of all those who deny the Story of Pope Joan have hitherto been able to do. This is an important Remark, and deserves to be consider'd with attention. Onu∣phrius, and the rest of his Party, are forc'd to lengthen the Lives of the Popes that preceeded

and follow'd our Popess, and by confounding the order of their succession, have thrown themselves into inextricable Labyrinths. Bellar∣min, one of the most subtle and dextrous of all these Chronologers, in his Treatise of Ecclesia∣stical Writers, extends the time of Nicholas the First's Pontificate to† 1.128 Ten years, which in his Chronology he reduces to Nine years and a half. Examine all these Authors, and you shall not find one who does not contradict himself, so difficult a Task it is to counterfeit the Truth. Bellarmin has not forgot to calculate the time of the Pontificate of any one Pope, but only of Leo IV, which is a shrewd sign that he was strangely puzzl'd how to dispose of the Two years during which the Papal Throne was fill'd by Joan, aliàs John VIII. But this is not the only Inconvenience with which his Opinion is clogg'd; for he and his Companions, by ex∣punging that Woman out of the Catalogue of Popes, have entangl'd themselves in new Diffi∣culties. And whereas they who make Truth the Standard of their Relations reckon four and twenty Popes that bore the Name of John, the rest count only twenty three, and by so doing confound the whole History. Thus their John the Twelfth, whom we mention'd before, is John the Thirteenth, according to Platina,* 1.129 Ga∣renza, and all faithful and unbyass'd Histo∣rians.

I have nothing more to add concerning Mr. Chevreau, for I will not trouble you with an account of all the Faults that I have ob∣serv'd in his History. And indeed, it is no great wonder that he was not able to carry on so vast

and general a Work without falling into some Errors.

I shall only subjoin three or four short Re∣marks for a further illustration of our present Controversie.

You must not be surpriz'd to find our Popess call'd both Anglicus and Moguntinus, as if that were a plain Contradiction; the* 1.130 Author of Fasciculus Temporum has unriddl'd the whole Mystery in these words, Joannes Anglicus cognomine, sed na∣tione Moguntinus. Her Name was Joan English, and she was born at Mentz.

The Variations that are observ'd in Manu∣scripts ought not to trouble you. I acknow∣ledge, that this Story is to be found in some of 'em, and not in others; but you are not ignorant of the Forgeries of Transcribers, or how they were wont to mangle the Books with which they were intrusted. I might easi∣ly fill a large Volume with Instances of their Impostures.

I see no reason why it should appear strange that some of those who relate this History seem to speak doubtfully of it; for, besides that it seems at first view to be encumber'd with some odd and intricate circumstances; 'tis certain that they could not express much Zeal in de∣fending the Truth of such a Relation, without exposing themselves to visible Dangers. The Force of Truth prompted and compell'd 'em to speak; and the Fear of giving Offence to the Court of Rome was a Bridle to restrain 'em. All this may be easily conceiv'd; however, we see several Authors have broken thro' all these Difficulties, and have given us such clear and

exact accounts of that Event, that we could not have deserv'd a more positive confirmation of it.

Two or three such Testimonies as these would be sufficient to convince any reasonable Person of the truth of our Assertion. And, what tho' they are contradicted by Hundreds, and by Millions? Truth can never be over∣power'd by the numbers of its Enemies▪ The History of the Popess does not imply the least contradiction; it is attested by several Men of Honour, who were constrain'd by the Evidence of Truth to speak against the Interest of their own Party; our Adversaries themselves cannot pretend that it was foisted into the Writings of these Authors by the Enemies of Popery; and it was receiv'd without contradiction during the space of Five hundred years, by the confession of those very persons who call it a Fable. 'Tis plain then, that all the Negative Authorities in the World are not capable of invalidating the Credit of so many Authentick Witnesses, and of a Relation so solidly and generally attested.

I have already given you an account of my Thoughts, in answer to that part of your Letter where you mention some of our Doctors, who deny the Story of Pope Joan; but since I perceive you insist on this Argument, I must tell you plainly, that it is a very unwarrantable piece of Partiality, not to give it a worse name, blindly to embrace the Opinions of any Man not divinely inspir'd, whatever figure he may make in the World. A Man of Sence will never suffer his Judgment to be byass'd either by the Voice of the Publick, or by the Numbers

or pretended Authority of Writers that are dignified by great Titles. Three quarters of the Christian World are meer Slaves to those ancient Writers whom they call The Fathers; tho', 'tis certain, the good Instructions they have left us are mix'd with a great number of dangerous, false, insipid, and ridiculous Opi∣nions.

I thought to have ended our Controversie here, but I believe it will not be improper to remove another Difficulty before I leave this Subject. I must confess, I was somewhat sur∣priz'd to find that, instead of Mr. Chevreau, you had conjur'd up against me so terrible an Adversary as the famous* 1.131 Blondel, who is the Pillar and Bulwark of Antipopessism, and whose bare Name has gain'd abundance of Proselytes to his Opinions. He was a man of Learning and Wit; besides, he was a Protestant, and consequently was believ'd to have no other Interest than that of Truth in the Success of the Quarrel which he had espous'd. 'Tis cer∣tain, his Authority has been always a Stone of Stumbling to those who are wont to make Pre∣judice their Rule of Faith. The Name of the Author is the strongest Argument in his Book, and it is that alone which has given the greatest Blow to his Enemies.

I have read this Piece over and over with at∣tention, and can assure you it is written after a manner very proper to blind the Eyes and con∣found the Judgments of the generality of Rea∣ders. But those who will not suffer themselves to be impos'd upon, and still look for something that is solid and material, will not find any

thing in the whole Book worthy of that Cha∣racter.

I could fill a Volume with Observations and Criticisms on this Work, for I have made some Reflexions on every Page, and perhaps every Period in it. This is not a proper place for 'em; but I may find an opportunity hereafter to communicate 'em to you; in the mean time I shall content my self with giving you a general Idea of it, accompanied with a few particular Remarks, according to the method by which I have anatomiz'd it.

Mr. Blondel begins with a Declaration that gives a wound to his Cause, which all his Arti∣fices can never palliate. The Force of Truth and of authentick Testimonies, which he re∣ceiv'd from* 1.132 those to whom he neither would nor durst refuse to give credit, extorted this in∣genuous Confession from him, That the History of the Female Pope is contain'd in the Augsburg Copies of Anastasius; which I mention'd before. You see what Advantage he has given to his Enemies; and, what Stratagem d' ye think he uses to recover his Ground? Could you ima∣gine that a man of his parts would have recourse to the poorest Evasion that ever baffl'd Au∣thor was guilty of? or, that he would start an imaginary Difficulty, that he might afterwards the more easily grapple with this Wind-mill in his own Brain? He is sensible there is no∣thing but dry Blows to be got by meddling with these original Manuscripts, and that they would be too hard for all his Rhetoric, and therefore he e'en very fairly leaves 'em as he found 'em, without ever mentioning 'em after∣wards,

and finds out another Anastasius at Paris, written about Two hundred years ago, which contains also the same History, but accompa∣nied with some circumstances which, he assures us, imply several Contradictions. And, It seems, adds he, that the Parisian Anastasius should give light to those of Augsburg. At first he dares not advance such a Paradox, but with an it seems, and without considering whether that which seems to him does also seem so to others; he builds his Discourse on this uncertain Foundation, and at the same time, tho' tacitely, establishes his Supposition for a certain Truth. Thus, with his Anastasius of Two hundred years, he has found the Secret to confute all the other Copies of that Author, without citing one of 'em.

But, what is still worse, his Anastasius is a private Piece, which he shews only by Shreds, and dares not produce. If I were not restrain'd by fear of injuring Mr. Blondel's Sincerity, I should be strongly tempted to suspect that his Manuscript was never seen by any Man but him∣self: and at least I think I may be allow'd to sup∣pose that he durst not quote the whole passage, lest it might furnish his Adversaries with Wea∣pons against himself.

In the first place then, we must believe Mr. Blondel upon his own single Testimony, that there was really such an Anastasius, and such a Passage in it, as he cites; but his Manuscript might have been supposititious, or at least a mo∣dern and even, by his own confession, an uncer∣tain Copy, since he tells us it had been often taken for a Platina. 'Tis strange, that any man

that can read should not be able to distinguish Anastasius from Platina.

Secondly, After we have blindly believ'd all that this Author is pleas'd to tell us concerning his pretended Anastasius, we must extend our Com∣plaisance further, and, upon the credit of his bare it seems, either believe or suppose his tacite Infe∣rence, that this Manuscript not only may serve to illustrate the Anastasius's of Augsburg, as he pretends at first, but is a true Copy of these, and even of the most ancient and exact Anasta∣sius's; for, if this supposition be false, all his Arguments must fall to the Ground.

I may venture to affirm, that this Conside∣ration alone is sufficient to discredit Mr. Blon∣del's famous Book, the main design of which should have been to destroy and confute, by clear and solid Reasons, the positive Testimony of such a learn'd and uninteress'd Eye-witness as Anastasius.

Before I proceed to communicate to you some other Remarks on Mr. Blondel's Treatise, I must desire you not to expect to find 'em all accompanied with Demonstrations; I may per∣haps, for brevity's sake, omit the Proofs of some of my Assertions, but I shall be ready to supply that Defect when you please.

In the general 'tis certain, that this Book may be entirely and unanswerably confuted out of it self; and that far from destroying the History of the Popess, the Truth of that Event may be solidly demonstrated by Reasons drawn from this very Treatise. These are two Positions which I dare confidently assert, and undertake to maintain.

Among all the Contradictions with which this Discourse is stuff'd, I shall only desire you to observe, that two thirds of it are spent in litigious Chronological Cavils, and vain Rhodo∣montadoes against the Authors of our History. After which he forgets himself so far,* 1.133 as to make a long Harangue to demonstrate the un∣certainty of Chronology, and the weakness of those Arguments that are drawn from it, either to confirm or invalidate the Truth of a Relation. When he finds that Chronology may be accom∣modated to his Hypothesis, he flies at it greedi∣ly, and triumphs as in the Testimony of an Oracle; but every thing that looks a skew up∣on his Calculation, is a Trifle or Mistake.

There is a certain Air of Ostentation spread over all his Book, which makes him on all occasions leave the subject of his Discourse, that he may at any rate make a vain Show of his Reading. And even, not unfrequently, this itching Desire to show his Learning makes him utter things extreamly disadvantageous to the Interest of his Opinion; but he must display all that he knows, whatsoever it may cost him.

He heaps up a multitude of needless and impertinent Quotations, not only to satisfie his Vanity, but also to confound his Readers, and to stun 'em with a multitude of noisie Au∣thorities? 'Tis plain, that he endeavours to weary People, and to bar the access to his Book with heaps of useless Digressions and empty Cavils, which serve only to encrease the Obscurity and Intricacy of the controverted Question. He very seldom pursues his De∣sign

closely, and oftentimes picks up some tri∣vial Story which Chance throws in his way, and makes as great a noise with it, as if it were tne main Point for which he contends. He triumphs out of season, and confutes petty Circumstances with a great deal of Solemnity, to amuse his Readers. He exaggerates Diffi∣culties, and when he meets with one that plea∣ses him, splits it perhaps into half a score. He fills his Refutations with scurrilous and injuri∣ous Reflexions. He commonly gives the Lye to his Adversaries, and upbraids 'em with Im∣postures and Blunders, that he may insensibly accustom those that will suffer themselves to be influenc'd by so bad an Example, to rail per∣petually against the Asserters of the opposite Opinion. His Jests are also too spiteful and biting, and he lays about him on all hands without Mercy. This Peevishness and ill Humour is an evident sign that he was non-pluss'd; and sometimes he visibly bewrays a great deal of Fear and Hesitancy in the ma∣nagement of his Attacks: Neither is he very sollicitous to be understood, if he can but hoodwink his Readers, and draw 'em after him into the Labyrinth in which he has engag'd himself.

'Tis certainly very pleasant to observe how these doughty Critics, after they have exhaust∣ed their Wit in Reflexions on the History of our Popess, are puzzl'd to divine the original occasion of that pretended Fable. Some, with Baronius, run as far as Constantinople, to find out an Imaginary Patriarchess of that See, with∣out considering that by so doing they confirm

the probability of Pope Joan's Adventure. O∣thers, as Onuphrius and Mr. Chevreau, transform an Ann to a Joan, as I intimated before, and by a second Metamorphosis turn this Joan into a Maud, or an Olympia, who govern'd Pope John the Twelfth; and at last they squeeze a sort of a Popess out of this Concubine, whom, after all, they are forc'd to bury a hundred years before she was born, that they may bring her again upon the Stage in time and place conve∣nient. Allatius has also forg'd a certain Thiota, a pretended Prophetess of Mentz, whom he transfigures as dexterously as he can into a Fe∣male Pontife. Mr. Blondel relates several other Conjectures, and confutes 'em all; he is won∣derfully modest on this occasion, and acknow∣ledges that this is a Mystery which he is not able to unriddle. But this is not the only place where he displays his Candour; for he imploys fourteen or fifteen Pages of his Pamphlet in a Panegyric on Truth and Justice; and while the Fit of Generosity is upon him, he cannot suffer those unjust Calumniators of the Papal See to escape unpunish'd; which, he assures us, was the only Motive that oblig'd him to draw his Pen. Let us only make two short Reflexi∣ons on this Pretence, and then, if you please, we will proceed to some other subject.

Whether there ever was a Woman-Pope, or not, 'tis certain things are otherwise in such a posture, that this Circumstance singly consi∣der'd can neither be advantageous nor prejudi∣cial to the Interest of the Church of Rome. I never could endure to insult over 'em upon this account, as some among us are wont to do,

for I'm perswaded that 'tis impossible to draw any Inferences from this Adventure more to the disadvantage of that Party, than those that may easily be deduc'd from the Stories of several Popes who were far worse than our Popess. If, excepting only this Creature, all the rest of the Popes had been Men of Probity, good Chri∣stians, and vigilant and faithful Pastors; had their Lives and Morals been unblemish'd, and their Doctrine pure and uncorrupted, I should not be surpriz'd that those of that Profession could not bear so scandalous a Reproach. But since the most bigotted Authors of the Roman Communion acknowledge that there has been a prodigious number of abominable Popes, why should our She-Pontife be esteem'd a more hide∣ous Monster than the rest, meerly because she was of another Sex? The Church of Rome then ought not to make such a terrible pother about an affair of so little consequence: and certain∣ly Mr. Blondel had much less reason to take Pep∣per in the Nose on the same occasion: his Zeal is at best but impertinent, and his Charity un∣profitable. Such an insignificant Remedy as that which he administers can never purifie the whole Mass of the Papal Blood, which, by the unani∣mous confession of Historians of all Religions, is extreamly foul and corrupted. And it must be acknowledg'd, that Mr. Blondel's Harangue on those Principles of Generosity that prompted him to undertake this Work, is too tedious and full of Affectation, to perswade a judicious and unbyass'd Reader of the Author's Sincerity.

But I must at last conclude this Subject, by telling you all I think, and even all that I know of my Adversary. And, to speak freely on this occasion, I may venture to assure you, he was acted by Interest as well as by Ostentation. A Man of Honour who liv'd at Paris, and knew that Writer particularly, inform'd me, that he learn'd from the first hand that he was hir'd to write a Treatise against the Story of Pope Joan. My Author is in all respects worthy of Credit; nor is Mr. Blondel the only Man in the World who has been perswaded by Silver Ar∣guments to act such a part.

'Tis not without Reluctancy I mention any thing that may be made use of to blacken the Character of a Man, who, to take him in the general, was certainly a Person of Merit; and you must give me leave to say in his justificati∣on, that perhaps he really believ'd the Story to be doubtful: Besides that, all things consider'd, he did a Favour to the Church of Rome, by writing against the Popess, without doing the least Injury to Ours. Our Religious Differences do not at all depend on the Truth or Falshood of that Story; and therefore Mr. Blondel might look upon it as a matter of Indifference.

I can say little or nothing in answer to your Questions concerning the Greeks and Armenians that are in this City. They have each of 'em their particular Ceremonies, and officiate accor∣ding to their peculiar Rites; but they are forc'd to subscribe to the Pope's Supremacy, be∣fore they can obtain leave to settle at Rome. Antiquaries believe, that the little Armenian

Church was heretofore one of the Temples of the Sun and Jupiter.

The Jews at Rome enjoy'd some measure of Liberty, and liv'd somewhat easily before the Pontificate of Paul the Fourth; but that Pope was a terrible Enemy to 'em: For whereas be∣fore they were permitted to live in any part of the City, he confin'd 'em to one corner of it, whither he order'd 'em to retire at the close of the Evening. He forc'd 'em to sell their Posses∣sions, and suffer'd 'em only to trade in old Clothes. He commanded 'em, for a mark of distinction, to wear yellow Hats, and issu'd out an express prohibition, That no Christians should either eat or converse with 'em. I am inform'd, that by a Decree of Gregory XIII, they were oblig'd, or at least a certain number of 'em, to hear a Christian Sermon every Saturday in the Afternoon, but I have not yet had an opportunity to see that Assembly. The Italian Jews, and particularly those of Rome, as some of themselves assur'd me, do scrupulously ob∣serve the Law that enjoins 'em to marry at Twenty years of age at farthest, under the pain of Ignominy, and being treated as persons li∣ving in Sin. The number of the Jews at Rome may at present amount to between Six and Seven thousand.

When any Jew, or other Infidel, is willing to embrace the Christian Religion, the Solemnity of his Baptism is put off to Saturday in the Holy Week, unless some urgent Consideration require greater haste. This Ceremony is perform'd in the Church of S. John de Lateran, where, they

believe, Constantine the Great was baptiz'd. We saw six Turks baptiz'd in this Church; they wore a Cloak of white Damask, and a Lawn∣band, with a Silver Cross hanging at their Neck. The Cardinal that was to officiate be∣ing come with the Canons of that Church, the Ceremony was begun with blessing the Wa∣ter; after which the Proselytes, presented by their Godfathers, advanc'd, every one in his turn, and declar'd their desire to be baptiz'd; then they lean'd over the Font, and the Cardinal baptiz'd 'em, and gave 'em their Names, by pouring Water on their Heads out of a large Silver Spoon; afterwards taking Wax Tapers in their Hands, they were confirm'd in the Cha∣pel of the Baptistery, and from thence went to hear Mass in the same Church.

We were present also, the Thursday before, at the Ceremony of washing the Feet of Thirteen Pilgrims, in one of the Chapels of the Vatican; they were likewise cloth'd in white, and besides had a kind of Hood, with a square Cap. Be∣ing set all in a row upon a Bench, they pull'd off their Shoes and Stockings, and a Priest came to see whether they were ready; afterwards a great Bason was brought in, and Ewers of Vermilion, one for every Pilgrim: Then the Cardinal that officiated in the Pope's absence wash'd their Feet in the Bason, rubbing 'em with his own Hands, and then wip'd and kiss'd 'em. After which every Pilgrim receiv'd two Gold Medals, and all in a body went to one of the Chambers in the Palace, where a magnifi∣cent Entertainment was prepar'd for 'em: all the Thirteen Pilgrims were plac'd on one side of a

Table, and the Cardinals sate at another in the same Room.

I will not trouble you with a particular Ac∣count of the rest of the Ceremonies that we saw during the Holy Week, since they have been exactly describ'd by others.

The* 1.134 Pope is really old and infirm; but, 'tis plain, that he makes his want of Health serve for a Pretext to excuse his absence at all those numerous Ceremonies. I am very credi∣bly inform'd, that he did by no means approve of the French Dragooning; and I learn'd from a good hand, that he could not be brought to take notice of those Steps that were lately made by that Crown towards a Reconciliation. The Minister that was entrusted with the manage∣ment of that Affair could never obtain a posi∣tive Answer to his Proposals, nor so much as a free Audience.

The extream Privacy of that Retirement in which this Pontife spends his days, not only hides him from the Eyes of Strangers, but they are even hardly able to perceive that he is in Town; for they never meet with any Lac∣queys, Coaches, or Retinue that belong to him: when he goes abroad, which he does very rarely, he is carry'd in a Litter. These Litters are very large, lin'd with crimson Velvet with∣out and within, with Gold Galoons and Fringes; and the Harness of the Mules are adorn'd after the same manner. The Pope is always alone in his Litter, in the fore-part of which there is a little Table instead of a Seat. All Popes have the same Livery, which is scarlet, with a double Velvet-Galoon of the same colour. Almost all

the Apartments of the Vatican and Monte-Cavallo are likewise hung with red Damask, adorn'd with Bands of Gold-Galoon, and above with Gold-Fringes.

The situation of the Gardens of Monte-Cavallo is very pleasant, but the contrivance of 'em is irregular, and they appear'd to us to be very much neglected.

The two Marble Horses that stand before the Palace were by Sixtus the Fifth's Order brought from Constantine's Baths. It is, and has always been, the general Opinion, That one of 'em is the Work of Phidias, and the other of Praxi∣teles, the Names of those two famous Sculptors being engraven upon 'em. 'Tis also said,* 1.135 and many Authors have written, That these Horses are the Statues of Alexander's Bucephalus, which these Artists made in Emulation of one-another, but there must certainly be some Mistake in this Tradition. Phidias flourish'd a whole Age before Praxiteles, and Alexander the Great liv'd Fifty years after Praxiteles. 'Tis plain then, either that these Statues are not the Work of the above-mention'd Sculptors, or that they were not made for Bucephalus.

The two other Horses of Marble, that are to be seen in the Court of the Capitol, were taken from Pompey's Theatre; and the Statue on Horse∣back of Brass which stands in the same place, was erected there by Paul III. 'tis thought to be the Statue of Marcus Aurelius.

The Capitol is a modern Structure, rais'd up∣on the Ruins, and even on part of the* 1.136 Foun∣dations of the ancient Edifice: it would require a whole Volume to describe all the remarkable

Antiquities in this place; I shall only name some of the principal. The She-Wolf of Brass, giving suck to the Illustrious Twins, on which may be seen the mark of the Thunderbolt mention'd by* 1.137 Cicero; the four great Basso∣relievo's, which represent several Passages of the History of Marcus Aurelius; the Columna rostrata of the General, or Admiral and Consul Duillius, the first that was honour'd with a Naval Tri∣umph in Rome; the Courier pulling a Thorn out of his Foot after he had deliver'd his accepta∣ble Message to the Senate, who chose rather to endure that pain during his Journey, than to retard the public Joy; the Bust of Cicero, with his Vetches; the† 1.138 four ancient Measures; the Bust of Virgil; Nero's Nurse holding that little Monster by the Hand; the Goddess of Silence; the God Pan; the three Furies; a Statue of Caesar with his Cuirass; another of Augustus; those of Castor and Pollux; the Fragments of the Colosses of Apollo, Domitian, and Commodus; the Lion devouring a Horse; and the Trophies which some think are Trajan's, tho' others ascribe 'em to Marius.

The Pictures in Fresco in the great Hall are by the Hand of Cavalier Joseph; I am of opinion that they represent the first Battel between the Romans and Sabins.

I know not well what account to give you of the Pillar call'd the Milliarium, for I'm per∣swaded that it would not be an easie Task to explain the true meaning of it; It is of white Marble,* 1.139 eight foot and a half high; the Cy∣pher I is mark'd on the top of it, and on the Chapiter a Brass Globe about two foot in dia∣meter:

The common Opinion is, That this Column is in the Center of Rome, and that from hence they began to compute the distances from that City, which were divided into Miles by other Pillars that were erected on all the great Roads in Italy; but there are two or three Dif∣ficulties that destroy the probability of this supposition. The Column in the Forum Romanum mention'd by Suetonius, Tacitus, and some other ancient Authors, was, according to their Re∣presentation of it, of Brass, or Brass gilt, and the Names of the great Roads were engrav'd upon it, with the computed distances of the principal Cities; but no such thing appears on the Milliarium in the Capitol. You will perhaps tell me, that the brazen Column might be lost, and the Milliarium set up in its place; but you do not consider that this last was found adjoin∣ing to the Appian Road, as it appears by the† 1.140 mo∣dern Inscription engrav'd on one of the Faces of its Pedestal: nor is it at all probable that this Pillar was transported from the middle of the City to a mile's distance from the Walls. Be∣sides, how is it possible to explain the meaning of these Expressions Primus, or Secundus ab Ʋrbe Lapis, if these Stones or Columns were not with∣out the City, since the word ab urbe does evi∣dently imply that they were not in it? If I had never heard or read of the gilt Milliarium in the heart of the City, where some Authors pretend that all the Consulary Roads met, I should have certainly concluded from the words Ab Ʋrbe, from the City, that Primus Lapis, the first Column, or Milliarium, such as that in the Capitol, had been erected at the distance of one Mile from

the Walls of Rome. Since this Milliarium was found in one of the Suburbs of the City, and near to one of the Highways, I should have believ'd that its proper place was there, and that the number of those First Columns equall'd that of the great Roads. Whether we suppose that the gilt Milliarium was the only first Pillar, and that the second Columns were plac'd at the distance of one mile from it, which ne∣vertheless seems to imply a contradiction; or that the gilt Column in the center of the City was only a Mark from which all the Distances were computed, and that the nearest Columns were call'd first Milliariums, and distinguish'd by an Inscription like that in the Capitol: 'tis obvious from either of these Suppositions, that, considering the Greatness of Rome, none of all these first or second Columns could be within the City, and consequently that this Expression Primo ab Ʋrbe Lapide was very improper, and even false; for the primus Lapis must have been in Ʋrbe, and not ab Ʋrbe.

I am confirm'd in this Opinion by another Circumstance. There is an ancient Inscription in the Palace call'd Palaestrinum, which contains the Statues of a College of Aesculapius, and of Health, to which one Salvia Marcellina bequeath'd a Temple, a Place or Court, and a Walk, the whole being situated on the Appian Way, near the Temple of Mars, Intra Miliarium primum & secundum ab Ʋrbe euntibus; that is, Between the first and second mile as you go from the City.

'Tis the common Opinion of Antiquaries, that there was a Temple of Mars without the City, and on the Via Appia; and all these Con∣siderations

put together, do almost fully con∣vince me, that* 1.141 the gilt Milliarium was erected only to mark the place where all the great Roads begun, and to compute the Distances of the chief Cities; but that all the First Columns were each One Mile distant from the Walls of Rome.

The Information I receiv'd from those whom I consulted on this occasion, was not very material to confirm either of the opposite Opini∣ons; however, I will think of some other way to clear my Doubts, and in the mean time you will oblige me, by sending me an account of your Thoughts on this subject.

To compleat the Description of the Millia∣rium in the Capitol, I shall subjoin two Inscripti∣ons that are engrav'd on the Body of the Pil∣lar.

IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANUS PONTIF. MAXIM. TRIB. POTESTAT. XVII. IMP. XVII. P. P. CENSOR COS. VII. DESIGN. VIII.

IMP. NERVA CAESAR AUGUSTUS PONTIFEX MAXIMUS TRIBUNITIA POTESTATE COS. III. PATER PATRIAE REFECIT.

Adjoining to the Right Wing of the Capitol, there is a Church call'd Ara Coeli; 'tis said, that Augustus having consulted the Oracle at Delphos, to know who should succeed him in the Empire, could not for a long time obtain an Answer to his redoubl'd Sollicitations; and, that at last the Oracle desir'd the Emperor to retire, declaring, that it was not able to satisfie him, because its Mouth was stop'd by the Hebrew Child, who was

the Son of God, and true God himself. The Story adds, that Augustus finding this Declarati∣on to agree with the Sibyllin Prophesies, imme∣diately order'd an Altar to be built in the Ca∣pitol, to the honour of the Hebrew Child men∣tion'd by the Oracle, calling it Ara Primogeniti Dei, The Altar of the First-born of God. The Church call'd Ara Coeli is built in the same place, so that Augustus's Altar remains still near the Quire.

The Prison to which, they believe, St. Peter and St. Paul were sent, after they had receiv'd the Sentence of Death, is very near this place: It is at present a Chapel, by the name of S. Pietro in carcere. 'Tis the general Opinion of Antiquaries, that this is the Tullianum which was finish'd by Servius Tullius, or Tullus Hostilius, where only condemn'd Malefactors were imprison'd. Here they show a little* 1.142 Spring, which, they say, gush'd out of the Rock at the Prayer of St. Peter, that he might baptize certain Prose∣lytes. They made us also take notice of the Im∣pression of that Apostle's Face on the Wall, which they told was made by the yielding of the Stone, when he was thrust against it by a Blow which he receiv'd from a Soldier.

There is a prodigious multitude of ancient Ruins scatter'd about behind the Capitol, but I dare not engage in these Labyrinths; I shall only touch upon some short Remarks by the by.

* 1.143The famous Rupes Tarpeia, that Precipice for∣merly so dreadful, is at present an inconsiderable Rock about twenty foot high.

The Triumphal Arcb erected for Titus, after he had taken Jerusalem, is remarkable, among other things, for the Basso relievo's which represent the Candlestick, Table, Trumpets of the Great Jubilee, and some Vessels that were taken out of the Temple.

Constantin's Arch is almost entire, only some of its Statues have lost their Heads, which they say Lawrence de Medicis stole, and carry'd to Flo∣rence. It has been observ'd by curious Inspe∣cters, that the Basso relievo's on this Monument are not equally beautiful, which makes 'em suspect that the best Pieces were taken away when it was erected.

The Lake of Curtius was in the middle of the Forum Romanum. Ovid tells us, that even in his time there were no marks of it to be seen.

Curtius ille Lacus siccas qui sustinet aras, Nunc solida est Tellus: sed fuit ante Lacus. Fast. 6.

The prodigious Amphitheater‡ 1.144 call'd Colli∣seum is round on the outside, tho' the Arena or Place of Combat is oval. It contain'd† 1.145 Eighty and Five thousand Spectators, four times more than the Amphitheater at Verona. I observ'd, that the Pillars of the Third Order, and the Pilasters of the Fourth have Corinthian Chapi∣ters.

You must excuse me for not satisfying your Curiosity by answering the Questions you pro∣pose concerning the Senate of Women establish'd by Heliogabulus. The little Building at Monte-Cavallo, by some thought to have been a Tem∣ple of the Sun, and by others a Temple of Health, is suspected to have been the meeting place of that Sage Assembly; but this Conceit is grounded only on some uncertain Conjectures.

The Columns of Trajan and Antonin are so famous and magnificent, that I cannot forbear mentioning 'em, tho' doubtless they have been sufficiently describ'd by others. Both these admirable Monuments are adorn'd with Basso relievos, ascending in a spiral line from the Base to the Chapiter, which represent the Wars and memorable Actions of those Princes.

* 1.146The first was erected by the Senate to the ho∣nour of Trajan, and also serv'd him for a Mau∣soleum, his Ashes having been plac'd in a golden Urn on the top of it. This Urn was succeeded by a Statue of St. Peter, of Brass gilt, which Sixtus the Fifth caus'd to be put in its place. The heighth of the Body of the Pillar amounts to 128 Roman, or almost 124 English Feet, and is ascended by One hundred and Twenty three Steps.

* 1.147The second was also built by the Senate to the honour of Antoninus Pius. The Statue of that Emperor was plac'd on the top of it, where that of St. Paul stands at present, which is of Brass, and gilt like St. Peter's. The Stairs con∣sist of Two hundred and six Steps, and the Trunk of the Pillar is One hundred and sixty Roman Foot high, which are equivalent to

One hundred and Fifty five Feet of your mea∣sure.

I have several times enjoy'd the learned and delightful Converse of the Abbot F. We visi∣ted together some of the Caves call'd Catacombs, and several Ruins of the old Edifices, besides other Antiquities. I shall take this occasion to acquaint you, that we enter'd one day into the* 1.148 Mausoleum of Cecilia Daughter of Metellus, sir∣nam'd Creticus. At the entrance of this Monu∣ment he shew'd us a hole, into which, some weeks ago, a† 1.149 Gentleman drop'd, unperceiv'd by those who accompanied him. His Friends were seiz'd with astonishment when they miss'd him, and could not imagin what was become of him. The Pit was deep, and either he was so stunn'd by his Fall, that he could not cry out, or if he did call none of 'em heard him, and at last they return'd without him. About sixty hours after, the poor Gentleman having fortunately scratch'd open a passage, clamber'd out of the Pit, and, tho' not without difficul∣ty, got to the next House, his Legs being scarce able to sustain his pale, weak, starv'd, and spent Body, The People of the House where he enter'd, mov'd with Compassion, pre∣par'd some comfortable Broths for him, and as∣sisted him so effectually, that he quickly reco∣ver'd his Strength.

Never were there so many subterraneous places seen, as there are in and about Rome; the Earth is faln down in some parts, and has stop'd the Entries of many of those famous Caves so universally known by the name of Catacombs, but there is still a prodigious number

of 'em remaining. You must not fancy those Vaults, I mean every Catacomb, if I may be allow'd to use that Expression, to be one single Room; for the Catacombs of St. Agnes, for example, or those of St. Sebastian are Labyrinths of subterraneous Lanes, which turn, wind, and cross one another like the Streets of a City, Such of these Caverns as seem never to have been made use of for Sepulchres, as those of the Gate Pinciana, and those others near St. John and St. Paul's, are only nam'd Grottoes, and the rest are call'd Catacombs, which is a modern Name without any signification, for all the various Etymologies that are given of it are meer un∣certain Conjectures.

The Roman Catacombs spread themselves un∣der all the Suburbs, but at Naples they are found only under one part of the City. These Caves are dug out of the Rocks, and extend very far on every side; each Vault is commonly about fifteen or eighteen foot wide, and the heighth of the Arch amounts to twelve or fifteen feet: on each side there are hollow Niches in the Walls, fram'd like Chests of all sizes, plac'd in rows above one another, without any regular Symmetry, where the Bodies were laid without Coffins, and cover'd with flat Stones or large Tyles, cemented with Chalk and Sand, as it appears distinctly in some places to this very day. Besides the Niches in the Catacombs of Naples, there are some Tombs of a reasonable bigness, adorn'd with diverse Pictures, among which there are many Figures of Heads and half-Bodies, with the Names of the Persons, Paulus, Nicolaus, Proculus, &c. and sometimes a

hic jacet, or hic requiescit, is added to the Names.

On one of these Tombs I took notice of a yellow and blew Cross, after this fashion, and accompanied with these Characters:* 1.150

[illustration]

The Greeks formerly wrote their Σ almost like our Latin C, as you may observe particularly in the Inscriptions of the Three First Ages; but tho' Custom has again introduc'd the ancient Σ, yet they still retain the other in the contracti∣ons of these words, ΙΗΣΟΥΣ and ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ, as you may see on the top of this Cross, and as I have often observ'd in modern Inscriptions.

Of all the Catacombs we view'd at Rome, those of St. Sebastian are the grearest; the Ar∣ches are commonly as high as those of Naples, but the Vaults are but about two foot and a half broad. In several places we saw a great number of cover'd Niches in the higher rows. A Priest, whom we happen'd one day to meet there, had the Curiosity to open one of 'em, in which we found a Skeleton almost moulder'd away into whitish Ashes, yet we might perceive

that the Body had been laid on its Back. The reason why these Catacombs were not made wider, is because the Ground is sandy, and could not be underpropp'd, whereas those of Naples are hewn out of the solid Rock.

They pretend here, that these Vaults were dug by the Christians; that during the First Ages of Christianity, Divine Service was perform'd in 'em; that these burying-places were peculiar to the Christi∣ans, and never us'd by the Heathens; that a great number of Saints and Martyrs were interr'd in 'em; and consequently, which is the Cream of the Story, that they are inexhaustible Store-houses of Re∣licks.

Tho' these Suppositions were true, they could not justifie the Practice of those who pick up every Bone they meet with in a Catacomb, and meerly because they found it there, conclude that it ought to be rank'd among those things call'd Relicks. But this Consideration would lead me into a Controversie which I am not willing to examine at this time; neither will I undertake to write a long Dissertation con∣cerning the first part of the above-mention'd Hypothesis, which would require more time and Books than I am Master of at present; on∣ly in obedienee to your desire, I shall make a few short Remarks on these Propositions.

Since we are not oblig'd to give credit to the single Testimony of any man in his own Cause, 'Tis a general Rule that admits of no Excepti∣ons, that every Man that expects to be believ'd must prove what he affirms. 'Tis plain then, that they who maintain so positively, That the Catacombs were made by Christians for their own pe∣culiar

use, ought to demonstrate the Truth of their Assertion. This they have not done, and therefore I might justly reject their Opinion without being at the charge of an Argument to confute it. Yet, by way of supererogation, and out of complaisance to you, I shall subjoin some Considerations which will very much weaken, if not entirely destroy, their Hypothesis.

(1.) The first thing that comes into my mind on this occasion, is a Passage which I observ'd not long ago in Horace, where that Author speaking of the Puteculi, or public Burying-places, where the poorer sort of People in Rome were usually interr'd, makes a descri∣ption of 'em which agrees exactly with the ac∣count I have given you of the Catacombs.

Huc priùs angustis ejecta Cadavera Cellis Conservus vili portanda locabat in arcâ: Hoc miserae plebi stabat commune Sepulchrum.

Thomas Goodwin an English Author has repre∣sented 'em after the same manner in his Antho∣logy of the Roman History; see the Chapter that treats Of Funeral Ceremonies.

(2.) I am not ignorant that the Christians were wont to imitate the Heathens on many oc∣casions, but the words Fata, diis Manibus, Domus aeternae, and several other such like Expressions, that are often found in the Epitaphs on these Tombs, were so peculiar to the Heathens, that it is not conceivable they were ever us'd by Christians. I might, if it were necessary, con∣firm my Opinion by the Authority of no less

famous an Antiquary than Mr. Spon; for you may observe in the Collection of ancient Inscri∣ptions with which he has enrich'd the account of his Voyage to Greece, that he could not be perswaded to believe that the Epitaph on a Tomb at Thebes, which they assur'd him was St. Luke's Sepulchre, was made by a Christian, meerly be∣cause of the word MOIPHC, which he found in it, tho' it also mention'd the Immortality of the Soul. The same Author speaks more positively to this purpose, when he refutes the common Opinion concerning the pretended Tomb of a Saint near Valentia. He says expresly, that the words Aethera and Superis mention'd in the In∣scription are, in his opinion, sufficient Argu∣ments to prove that it is the Tomb of a Heathen, and subjoins this Maxim, That the Stile of Epitaphs ought to be distinguish'd from that of Poesie, by reason of the liberty claim'd by Poets of all Religions; whereas he assures us that he has always discover'd evident marks of the Pie∣ty and Simplicity of the Primitive Church in the Inscriptions on ancient Tombs. What opi∣nion then do you think this learned Antiquary would have had of the Gods Manes, and Eter∣nal Houses of the Catacombs?

(3.) The Glass Vials and little Metallic Vessels that have been frequently found in those Sepul∣chres are also marks of Paganism. The Asser∣tors of the common Opinion concerning the Catacombs pretend that these Vessels serv'd to contain the Blood of the Martyrs; but this is a bare Conjecture, without the least Proof or Illustration. And besides, we have reason to conclude, that these are true Lachrymatories,

such as the Heathens were wont to put both in∣to their Urns and Tombs. You know that they were not only desirous to be lamented, which made 'em hire Women to weep at their Fu∣nerals, but also took care to gather these Tears, and to preserve 'em with their Ashes or Bones.

I confess, this Reason alone could not have convinc'd me, since 'tis certain, as I intimated before, that the Christians borrow'd several less innocent Customs from the Heathens. But this Observation may serve to illustrate and confirm the first.

(4.) There is a Passage in Tertullian's Apolo∣getic that does not at all agree with the Opinion of those who believe that the ancient Christians were usually buried in the Catacombs. That Author complains of the Fury of the Heathens who took the Bodies of the Christians out of their Tombs, and drag'd 'em about the Streets; and 'tis probable, that if once those Persecutors had discover'd these Caves, they would have for ever depriv'd the Christians of 'em.

(5.) If I should enquire how the Christians were able to dig and empty these Caves with∣out alarming their Neighbors, and how they dispos'd of all the Rubbish, my Adversaries would doubtless tell me, That this Work was not done in secret; and, that the Peuzzolane or Sand of the Catacombs was sold by the poor Christians, who, for this reason, were nick∣nam'd Arenarii; that in the mean time they perform'd the Duties of Religious Wor∣ship in these holes, under pretext of burying their Dead. But this Answer is by no means

applicable to the Catacombs of Naples, that are hewn out of a Rock.

And as for the Nick-name of Arenarii, it may be observ'd, that this Derision of the Mi∣sery and Poverty of the Christians does not prove that they were the only Persons in Rome who were reduc'd to trade in Sand, which is the thing that ought to have been demonstra∣ted, to remove the Difficulty which may arise from our supposing that other persons besides the Christians were employ'd in digging these Holes. Tho' the Jews of Frankfort, for exam∣ple, are oblig'd to run to any part of the City where a Fire happens to break forth, and to carry Water to quench it; it does not fol∣low, that the Christian Inhabitants of that City remain idle Spectators of their Labours.

[illustration]

(6.) The Cyphers of the Name of Christ, Palm branches, Doves of Peace, Crosses, Crowns, and other marks of Christianity, that are found on the Stones which cover these Sepulchres, instead of proving what our Adversaries pretend, That these Burying places were peculiar to the Chri∣stians, seem rather to evince, that they made use of such Symbols for Marks of distinction, to prevent their being confounded with the In∣fidels.

'Tis the common Opinion here, That these Cyphers represented in the Margin are com∣pos'd of a Latin P, for Pro or For, and a Cross, which signifies Christ; so that these Cha∣racters

are call'd Pro Christo's. They conclude from hence, that such Figures are the sure Marks of the Tomb of a Martyr, or of one that suffer'd Pro Christo, for the Name of Christ, and accordingly raise the price of the Relicks. But 'tis plain, that these Cyphers consist of a X, Chi, and a P. Rho, which are the two first Letters of ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ; as ΜΑ and ΘΥ signifie ΜΑΡΙΑ ΘΥΓΑΤΗΡ, as I observ'd in the Mosaic Work on the Front of St. Mary major, and in several other places.

The Christian Epitaphs that are found here serve as little to confirm the adverse Opinion as the above mention'd Symbols; for the Question is not, whether the Bodies of some Christians were buried in the Catacombs, which is a certain and undoubted Truth. Not only Eusebius and Miltiades Bishops of Rome under the Empire of Constantine, but Cains and Marcellus their Prede∣cessors, who suffer'd Martyrdom with some other Christians, by the express Order of Dioclesian, were all interr'd in these Vaults, if we may believe Platina. Besides, it appears by the dates of a great number of Epitaphs, that several Christians were buried here during the First Ages: And I have sufficient ground to believe they appropriated these Sepulchres entirely to themselves in the succeeding times of Peace and Liberty.

Thus we may easily comprehend how those Christian Epitaphs are to be found in these Cells, but after all the Controversie remains untouch'd; for the burying of Christians here, is not a Rea∣son to exclude others from being interr'd in those

Holes that were set apart for the Dregs of the People.

The Pictures of diverse sorts and ages in the Catacombs at Naples, the Fashions of the Altars both there and at Rome, and several other Cir∣cumstances from which some pretend to draw Inferences, give no light to the Controversie, and deserve not to be consider'd. The reason of which is, because the Popes of these last Ages having always look'd upon their Catacombs as a profitable Source and Magazine of Relicks, have repair'd 'em in several places, and made such alterations as they thought most proper to strengthen the Opinion of the People, and especially of the Pilgrims, who come from all parts to visit these Holy Places. Panciroli makes a long description of these Reparations, by the help of which we may easily resolve the Diffi∣culties that might arise from several things that are observ'd in these Catacombs.

I must not forget to tell you, that during the time of the Plague which rag'd at Naples, about forty years ago, the Catacombs were the most usual places of burial; and all the Bodies that are to be seen there at present, are such as were interr'd on that occasion.

Near the Church and Catacombs of St. Agnes there is an old round Temple, which some think was a Temple of Bacchus. This Conceit is grounded only on certain ancient Representa∣tions of Vines and Vintages which are on the Roof, and on the Figures of Grapes, Vine∣branches, little Cupids gathering and pressing the Grapes, Vessels, Tuns, Panniers, and such

other Appurtenances of Bacchus that are to be seen on a Tomb of Porphyry in the same Temple. But all these Circumstances are not sufficient to prove, that this Temple was con∣secrated to him, or that the above-mention'd Tomb is his Sepulchre, especially if we call to mind that Bacchus dy'd not at Rome.

Since this Temple is but a hundred or sixscore paces distant from St. Agnes Church, which was undoubtedly built by Constantine, it may with much greater probability be conjectur'd, that the former was built at the same time to serve for a Baptistery to the latter, according to the general Custom of those times; and there is also another like Building, which was erected by the same Emperor for a Baptistery to S. John de Lateran. Neither the Ornaments of the Roof, nor those of the Tomb, are inconsistent with this Opinion, since they are also Symbols of Christianity.

But I need not insist longer on these Conje∣ctures, since the Controversie was decided long ago by Pope Alexander the Fourth, who taking it for granted, that the Bones of Constantia Daughter to Constantin, were enclos'd here,* 1.151 took 'em out, and having plac'd 'em as Relicks un∣der the Altar which he built in this little Tem∣ple, dedicated both to St. Constantia.

The Tabernacle of the high Altar of St. Ag∣nes is supported by four pretty large and ex∣treamly-well polish'd Pillars of Porphyry. We were inform'd, that the little Statue we saw there, was formerly the Statue of a Pagan Deity, but has since been adopted, and consecrated to be for the future the Statue of St. Agnes. Its

Mantle deserves to be attentively consider'd.

I might entertain you with an account of many other Antiquities which I observ'd in the Cabinets we have visited, and particularly in that of the Cavalier Pietro Paulo Manini, but my Letters are already so stuff'd with such Descri∣ptions, that I shall content my self with men∣tioning some of those that I had time to consider in the Cabinet of Mr. Bellori. The Curiosities it contains are not extraordinarily numerous, but they are all well chosen, and every thing in it is absolutely rare and perfect. His Fortuna Pan∣thea is a little Signum of Brass half a foot high, and extreamly well preserv'd. How odd were the Imaginations of the Heathens! The Gods govern'd the World, while they themselves were subject to the fantastical Humours of For∣tune! This little Goddess is surrounded with, or to speak more properly, compos'd of all the Marks and Characters of Divinity that were proper to other Deities; She has the Beauty of Venus, Juno's Crown, Diana's Crescent, the Miter of Isis, Ceres's Horn of Abundance, Minerva's Robe, the Wings of Fame or of Victory, Cupid's Quiver, the Goats-skin of Bacchus, Esculapius's Serpent, Fortune's Rudder, and several other marks of Gods and Goddesses.

I observ'd also the Deify'd Faustina, with her blown-up Veil strew'd with Stars; the Magna Mater, or Natura rerum parens, who suckles diffe∣rent Animals at all her Breasts; the Goddess Fortune, holding in one Hand the Horn of Abun∣dance, and in the other the Nail of Necessity; the Bust of a young Roman Nobleman, with his Bulla aurea hanging at his Neck; the Cistrum,

an Instrument which the Egyptians us'd, before the Romans, to assemble the People to the Sacrifices. This is a rare Piece, resembling a little Racket, the Wood pierc'd with four pieces of Brass like Cords or Rods, which play and make a noise: This Instrument denoted the four Elements and the Hurry of the World.

The ancient Vessel of brown Earth, but fine, and sounding like Porcelane, is another of the Rarities in this Cabinet. The Pictures about the Vessel contain Representations of their Cu∣stoms in bathing; and among others there is a Woman holding in one hand a Strigil or Instru∣ment for rubbing off sweat, and in the other a Vessel call'd Guttum, which contain'd odoriferous Waters. Besides, there are Ʋrns, Sepulchral Lamps, Lachrymatories, rare Pictures, and a hun∣dred other things, which I have not time to de∣scribe.

Father Kircher's Cabinet in the Roman Col∣lege was formerly one of the most curious in Europe, but it has been very much mangl'd and dismember'd: yet there remains still a conside∣rable collection of natural Rarities, with several mechanical Engines.

It may be justly said, That the Roman Col∣lege, which is the great College, and principal House of the Jesuits at Rome, is one of the finest Palaces in the City; the Library is good and nu∣merous, but there are no ancient Manuscripts, nor other considerable Rarities in it.

In a great Hall, which is adorn'd with the Pictures of the Jesuits that have suffer'd Martyr∣dom, we took notice of the famous Garnet, that bold Servant of the Society, who was drawn,

hang'd, and quarter'd for the Gun-Powder Treason. At his side there is the Figure of an Angel, who encourages him, and shews him the Heavens open'd.

During the three last days of the Holy Week, we met with almost nothing else in the Streets of Rome but Processions of Penitents of all sorts, and in all shapes, who were seeking after Pa∣radise by another way than that of Garnet. They had tapering Hoods which cover'd their Heads, leaving only two holes directly opposite to their Eyes: some of these Penitents were cloath'd in white, others in Violet colour, blew, yellow, and several other colours; some* 1.152 lash'd their own naked Backs with Whips of small twisted Cords, which made more noise than they did execution: these are only the puny Scholars of the Druids and Brachman's, or, if you will, of the Indian Faquirs; but they come very far short of the Scotopitae or Circumcelliones of the Fourth Age, who were wont to burn themselves, to cut their own Throats, or to break their Necks for the love of God. There are, and always have been, Fools of all Pro∣fessions; This puts me in mind of an Accident that I cannot forbear relating to you, and of which I was an Eye-witness. In June 1683. there was an unhappy Creature hang'd at† 1.153 Niori, for murdering her own Child; immediately after the Execution was over, a certain comical Fellow started out of the Crowd. He was about Thirty years old, and wore the Habit of a Franciscan Hermit; he lodg'd in holes under ground, where he liv'd on Roots and Wild-Fruit, and was the Son of a‖ 1.154 poor man in the

Town. He went straight up to the top of the Ladder, which was not yet taken away, and untying the Rope that serv'd him for a Girdle, he put it about his Neck with a running Knot, and fasten'd it to the Gibbet: after which he began very gravely to harangue the Specta∣tors, alledging several Reasons to excuse the dead Wench, for whose Ransom he said he had offer'd his Life. He added, That his Crimes exceeded hers, and that he was resolv'd to ex∣piate 'em by a sudden and voluntary Death: in the mean time the People laugh'd at him, not imagining that he was Fool enough to hang himself; for he was generally known, and the Bigots had a good opinion of him. However, he ventur'd on the fatal leap, and his Tongue hung out of his Mouth a large minute before any person came to his assistance; but at last* 1.155 one of the Company, more charitable than the red, cut the Cord, and, tho' not without some difficulty, sav'd the extravagant Wretch. I had almost forgot one material circumstance; his Mother was present, and would not suffer those about her to baulk her son's Humour; she entreated 'em to let him alone, For, said she, I'm sure the Rope was bless'd, and no harm can come on't.

There was not so numerous a concourse of Pilgrims this year as has been formerly. I have read in a Description of Trinity Hospital, that in the year 1600, which was the last of the great Jubilee, that House receiv'd, according to the usual Custom, or took care to provide for Four hundred and Forty thousand and Five hundred Men, besides Five and twenty thousand and Five

hundred Women. The Italian Pilgrims are lodg'd and entertain'd here three days, but those who come from beyond Sea, or from the other side of the Mountains, are allow'd one day lon∣ger. Princes, Princesses, Cardinals, and the Pope himself, wash their Feet, and serve 'em at Table.

I must not forget to tell you, that we never yet met the Sacrament in Rome, nor in any other Town in Italy, save only at Venice, where we saw it twice, under a magnificent Canopy not unlike to the Doge's Ombrella, and surrounded with a great number of Torches. The People of this Country are not at all possess'd with a spirit of Hatred or Persecution against Strangers of what Religion soever; and I must do 'em the Justice to acknowledge, that in our Travels through Italy, and even at Rome and Loretto, we were ne∣ver in the least molested by those Adorers of Relicks and Images; for they are accustom'd to see Strangers enjoy a great deal of Freedom, and the roughest treatment we ever receiv'd from 'em was, to be greeted now and then with a Non sono Christiani.

'Tis impossible for a Traveller to leave Rome without reluctancy, but he must not stay there for ever; we are resolv'd to depart to morrow, early in the morning, and I have still some little Affairs to dispatch; I must beg leave therefore to conclude my Letter, and to assure you that I am,

SIR,

Your &c,

Rome, May 4. 1688.

LETTER XXVII.

SIR,

WE found little or nothing worth our Observation between Rome and Viterbo, only there are some* 1.156 Pieces of the Via Emilia still remaining, which I measur'd and found to be of equal breadth with other Consulary ways. The ancient Lake Cyminus, now call'd the Lake de Vico, is at the foot of a Hill of the same name, from the top of which we discover'd the Sea. This Mountain is very high, but the ascent to it is easie. It is almost all cover'd with Sycomores and Chesnut-trees, and we observ'd a great number of Primroses, Narcissus's, Hya∣cinths, and other Flowers now in season growing upon it.

Viterbo is a City of indifferent bigness, almost wholly built of Stone, and enclos'd with a Wall.* 1.157 Beside the Steeples of the Churches, there are eight or ten square Towers which are seen at a distance, and make an odd kind of prospect: These were Forts or Retiring places, built by the richest Inhabitants, adjoining to their Houses, during the Fury of the Guelph and Gibelin Factions.

* 1.158You may find an Account of the Restaurati∣on of the ancient Tuscan Name Viterbo, in the following Inscription, of which I took a Copy at the Town-house. Desiderius ultimus Insubrium Rex, Longulam, Vetuloniam, at{que} Volturnam, moeni∣bus cingit, & Etruriae priore nomine inducto, Viter∣bium mulctâ capitis indictâ appellari jubet. Sal. An. DCC. LXXIII.

There is another Inscription in the same place, which confirms the Donation made by the Countess Maud, of her Estate to the Papal See; Aeternae memoriae inclytae Mathildis, quae ob praestabile Religionis studium ac pietatem sedi Pontificiae suum hoc Patrimonium Divi Petri in Thusciâ dein nuncu∣patum elargitur; & in veteran Ʋrbis ejus splendorem intuens Paschalis II. Bledem Pontifex Maximus, ejus Metropolim ut ante Viterbium constituit. An. S. 1113. It would be a hard task to produce such an au∣thentic Testimony for the* 1.159 Donation of the first Patrimony by Constantine. I remember I have somewhere read a pleasant Repartee of a Venetian† 1.160 Ambassador concerning this pretended Donation: The‖ 1.161 Pope being one day in a merry humour, ask'd him, in what part of the Venetian Annals their Title to the Adriatic Gulf was re∣corded:

If your Holiness, reply'd the Ambassador, will give your self the trouble to look upon the Con∣tract of the Donation made to the Holy See by Con∣stantine the Great, you will find our Title written on the back of it.

Tho' Desiderius's Inscription mentions only three Cities that were united under the Name of Viterbo, I have observ'd that this City is sometimes call'd Tetrapolis, and its Inhabitants Quaterni Populi. And you will find the Names of all the four Cities in the following Distick, which is on the top of the Stair-case of the Town-house.

Hanc Fanum, Arbanum, Vetuloni, Longula quondam Oppida dant Ʋrbem: prima Elementa F.A.U.L.

Thus they pretend that the ancient Etrurian Viterbium was built by Isis and Osiris; and to confirm this Opinion, they produce some Greek and Latin Inscriptions, which mention the Anti∣quity of their City. But having been inform'd at Rome, that these Inscriptions are Suppositious, and that 'tis generally believ'd they were made by John Annius the Dominican, commonly call'd Annius Viterbiensis, who made a Trade of such* 1.162 Forgeries, I would not lose time in transcri∣bing 'em: and besides, they are very long, and written in a small and difficult Character.

In one of the Halls of this House there is a Picture that was made to preserve the memo∣ry of a very extraordinary Accident. It re∣presents innumerable swarms of Grashoppers; the Sun is darken'd, and the Earth cover'd with thick Clouds of these Insects, which* 1.163 gnaw and devour every thing about Viterbium. All the People are in the Fields, endeavouring by se∣veral means to deliver themselves from that Egyptian Plague. And the Cross and Banner are carried in procession, with the Holy Water, to conjure and curse these destroying Animals.

* 1.164I remember Mezeray relates an Instance of the same kind: In the Year 873, says he, about the Month of August, a prodigious number of flying Locusts made an incredible havock in France. They were an inch in thickness, and their Teeth were harder than Flints. They laid waste the bloom∣ing Fields in an instant, and devour'd even the Barks of the Trees. They were driven by a strong Wind into the Britannic Sea, where they were drown'd; but the Waves throwing 'em upon the Shore in great heaps, their Corruption rais'd a Plague in the neigh∣bouring Provinces. This Story is related at length in the Life of Charles the Bald.

* 1.165As we drew near to Montefiascone, a little Town seated on a Hillock, eight miles from Viterbium, the Children came out to meet us, asking whether we would see the Est, Est, Est. Perhaps you have already heard the Story; but 'tis so singular, that I'm resolv'd at all Ad∣ventures to give you an account of it. A cer∣tain

Gentleman, or perhaps an Abbot or Bi∣shop, as you will afterwards perceive, travelling from Germany to Italy, us'd to send his Servant before him, says the Tradition, to taste the Wine in all the Taverns on the Road, with Orders to write the word Est over the Door, where he found the best Liquor. Now, it happen'd that the Moscatello of Montefiascone pleas'd Mr. Taster's Palate to such a degree, that he thought it deserv'd a triple Encomium, and therefore wrote three Ests over the Door. And, it seems, the Master was no less pleas'd with it than the Man, for he drank so much of it, that he fell sick and dy'd on the spot. We went to see his Monument in St. Flavian's Church, about Two hundred paces from the Town, where he is represented with a Miter on his Head, and on each side of him there are two* 1.166 Scutcheons, with as many Drinking-glasses. At his Feet are these words in worn and half-Gothic Characters; Est, Est, Est, propt. nimium Est, Jo. de Fuc. D. meus mortuus est; that is, Est, Est, Est, for taking too much Est, my Master† 1.167 Jo. de Fuc. lost his Life. 'Tis plain that this Epitaph was made by his Servant; I remember I have seen it quoted in three or four places, but never without some Error.

In our Journey from this Town to Bolsena, we coasted, tho' at some distance, the Lake that bears its Name. This Lake is almost of an oval figure, and, as we were inform'd, forty miles in compass. There are two Islands in it call'd Martana and Passentina, to the first of which the unfortunate Amalasuntha Daughter of Theodoric King of the Goths was banish'd: she was

afterwards* 1.168 strangl'd there by the order of her ingrateful Cousin Theodat, whom she had asso∣ciated with her in the Government.

* 1.169Bolsena is a little inconsiderable Town; it was formerly an Episcopal See, but the Bisho∣pric was afterwards transl••ted to Orvieto. On a rising ground behind it are the Ruins of the ancient† 1.170 Volsinium, which, as Pliny relates, was reduc'd to Ashes by a Thunderbolt.

There cannot be a worse Country seen than all the way between Bolsena and Aquapendente.* 1.171 The last-nam'd Town is very poor, and ill Peopl'd; yet it has enjoy'd the Title of a Bi∣shopric ever since the destruction of Castro.

The utmost limit of the Pope's Dominions on this side is at the little Village Centino, at the foot of the Hill Radicofani.* 1.172 The Town and‡ 1.173 Citadel which bear that Name, if you take the whole year round, are half the time wrapp'd in Clouds on the top of that high Mountain. A furious Storm forc'd us to lye there; and we heard the Thunder as it were rumbling under our Feet during the whole night. Leaving Radicofani to proceed on our Journey towards Siena, we saw nothing but bare and almost wholly barren Mountains; but about eight or ten miles further the Land begins to grow better, towards the Burrough of St. Qui∣rico: 'Tis true, this lasts not long, for about Torrinieri the Land is worse than ever, and we observ'd the same variety in all the Country thro' which we pass'd, till we approach'd Siena, which stands on a little and very rich Hill.

Siena is an Archbishopric,* 1.174 the third City in Tuscany, and one of the most pleasant places in it. Its situation being high and low, makes it somewhat incommodious; but it enjoys a good Air, and its Streets are near, and almost all pav'd with Bricks laid sidewise: besides, the Houses are handsom, and the Waters excellent. Here the Tuscan Language is spoken in perfecti∣on, without the roughness of the Florentines; and Strangers oftentimes chuse to reside here, when they apply themselves to the Study of the Italian Tongue.

The Cathedral is a Gothic Structure,* 1.175 yet its beauty is so much the more remarkable that it is compleat in all its parts; for very few great Churches are ever perfectly finish'd. This is all cover'd over with Marble without and with in; and the Ornaments of its Architecture are not inferiour to any of their kind. The Pave¦ment is of white and black Marble, the pieces of which are join'd together in the Quire after the manner of Inlaid or Mosaic Work. This Building was begun by Duccio, and finish'd by Dominic Beccafumi. The part next the Quire

is the least damag'd, and is adorn'd with the Pictures of Abraham's Sacrifice, and the Passage thro' the Red Sea. The Arch'd Roof is azur'd, and strew'd with Stars of Gold.

From the Church we enter'd, without ascen∣ding, into the place where the Library was formerly kept, to see those fine Pictures in Fresco, which represent the whole Story of Pope Pius the Second. They were design'd by Raphael after his first way of Drawing, but the Painting was perform'd by Pietro Perugin his Master,* 1.176 with Bernardin and Pinturicchio; they are finish'd Pictures, and inferiour to none of that nature in the World.* 1.177 The Pope's Soul flying up under the figure of a Bird of Paradise, and the ho∣nest Hermit gazing on it, is a much esteem'd Piece.

If you are a stranger to the History of St. Katherine of Siena, you must first learn the Etymology of her Name, which, according to the Legend, is deriv'd from Katha; that is, says my Author, All, and Ruine, which signifies a falling down; because all the Devil's Edifice fell down in her: so that St. Katherine was form'd by a corruption of the word from St. Katharuine. I hope this will please you who are a Lover of Etymologies.

You must know, in the second place, that this Saint, while she liv'd at her House in Siena, was frequently visited by Christ, in propria persona, who after he had for some years entertain'd a holy and intimate correspondence with her, at last marry'd her according to the usual form of Matrimony, and would have his Wedding so∣lemniz'd with a great deal of Ceremony. He

made a Present to his Bride of a Gold Ring set with a Diamond between four Pearls. He invited his Mother to the Feast, with St. Peter, St. John, and St. Dominic, and order'd King David to entertain 'em with some Tunes on his Harp. I read this Story at Rome in a Description of the Church of St. Katherine in Strada Giulia, and I have seen the Picture of it in several places. At Siena they shew'd me the Saint's Chamber, and the very Window thro' which Christ was wont to enter, when he design'd to visit her incog∣nito.

A Painter coming by chance into St. Domi∣nio's Church, where she lay entranc'd, made bold to draw her Picture, without leave ask'd or given. They shew'd me this Image, and assur'd me, that it wrought abundance of Mi∣racles, and that it has a singular Vertue to drive away Devil's, when 'tis presented to such as are possess'd with 'em.

You know, without doubt, that it was this Saint who gave the fatal Blow to the Scotists, in their Controversie against the Thomists, con∣cerning the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin. For, besides several Arguments which they al∣ledg'd to confirm their Opinion, they produc'd a Revelation of St. Bridget's, which had almost put their Adversaries to silence; but as ill luck would have it, up starts St. Katherine in the very nick, with a contrary Revelation, declaring po∣sitively, That the Virgin was conceiv'd in Sin as well as other Women; and therefore she has been ever since as much slighted by the Scotists as she is honour'd by the Thomists.

There is a good Citadel at Siena, and fifteen or twenty square Towers like those at Viterbo. The Tower call'd Mangiana is particularly taken notice of by some for its extraordinary heighth, but they are only such who never saw any other that make this Observation.

The City of Siena bears for Arms the fa∣mous She Wolf giving suck to the Royal Twins; and the same Animal is represented in several places on a Column. This proceeds from the fabulous Relations of some Authors, who pretend that Siena was built by the Chil∣dren of Remus. The great Place is hollow like a Boat or Scollop-shell, and may upon occasion be fill'd with Water when any Fire happens in the City.

In our Journey from Siena towards the River Arno, we observ'd that the farther we proceed∣ed, the Country grew still more level and fruitful. About Camiano, Granayola, Ponte d'Era, and between Pontgibon and Pisa, we found a se∣cond Campagna felice, where there is abundance of every thing, and the Ways are extreamly pleasant.* 1.178 Poggi-bonzi is only famous for its Tobacco.

* 1.179The present season of the Year inspires all the World with Joy and Good-humour; and this Month is every where particularly remar∣kable for Sports and Holy-days; but I never saw a more diverting Object than the Troops of young Girls, who regal'd us with Dances and Songs on all this Road, tho' perhaps the Ra∣rity of the Sex might in some measure contri∣bute to heighten the Pleasure we took in seeing 'em. Five or six of the prettiest and best attir'd

Girls of the Village meet together, and go from House to House singing, and wishing every where a Merry May. All their Songs consist of a great number of Wishes, which are common∣ly very pleasant; for they wish you may at once enjoy all the Pleasures of Youth, and of the blooming season; that you may be still possess'd with an equal Love, Morning and Evening; that you may live a hundred and two years; that every thing you eat may be turn'd to Sugar and Oyl; that your Clothes and Lace may never wear old; that Nature may smile eternally, and that the goodness of its Fruits may surpass the beauty of its Flowers, &c. And then come their spiritual Wishes; That the Lady of Loretto may pour down her Favours upon you; that St. Anthony of Padua may be your Guardian Angel; that St. Katherine of Siena may intercede for you. And for the Burthen of the Song, after every Stanza, A merry, merry May.

I observ'd near Certaldo, according to the Ad∣vertisement you gave me, several Hills of Sand stuff'd with diverse sorts of Shells. Monte-mario, a mile from Rome, is also full of 'em; besides, I have found some of 'em on the Alps, in France, and elsewhere. Olearius, Steno, Camden, Speed, and many other Authors, both ancient and mo∣dern, have taken notice of this Phaenomenon; and I read with a great deal of Pleasure the Dissertation you sent me on this subject: yet, since you desire me to deal plainly with you, I must tell you, that I am not of your Opinion as to the main.

If these Shells were the Remainders and an Effect of the Deluge, I would willingly be in∣form'd why it did not rather leave 'em in deep Bottoms and Valleys, than throw up whole Mountains of 'em; and also, why they are so rarely found: for, it seems more agreeable to Reason, that they should have been scatter'd more universally upon the Face of the Earth, and not gather'd into heaps, as the few that are left are always found. I confess, 'tis not impos∣sible that these Shells might be preserv'd ever since the Deluge, and therefore I will not insist on that Difficulty; only give me leave to tell you, that you seem to have a false notion of the Waters of the Deluge: for, to give a reason why those Shells, which you imagin to be Sea∣shells, are found in the middle of the Land, you suppose that the Deluge was a Sea. But as for me, I conceive that the Water of that Inunda∣tion which fell from Heaven, and was conse∣quently sweeter and lighter than Salt-water, was not so thorowly mix'd and confounded with the Waters of the Sea, but that the one still preserv'd its freshness, and the other its saltness or bitterness, and each of 'em their particular Qualities. Which being granted, this Consi∣deration alone will furnish us with Inferences (which I leave you to deduce) that are sufficient to destroy all your Conjectures.

Nor is it less in vain to have recourse to Winds, Storms, and Inundations for a solution of this Mystery. The way of Eruption, by which the new Vesuvius or Monte-nuovo was form'd, is not, I confess, to be altogether re∣jected; for such Hills as are compos'd of Mud

or Slime, and of sandy Earth mix'd with Shells, and other Marine Bodies, especially in Countries subject to Earthquakes, may well admit of such an Explication. But after all, I see no reason that should oblige us to take so wide a compass for a satisfactory solution of this Phaenomenon; for, to give you my thoughts of it in few words, I think it may be easily comprehended, that the same Vertue and Pro∣perties by which Shells are generated in the Sea may also form 'em in the Land, since there are Substances equally fit for their production in both, and all the circumstances and means re∣quir'd for their formation may be found in the latter as well as in the former. I will not en∣ter into a nice enquiry, whether they are form'd by Vegetation, or to use the Phrase of some Authors, by Intro susception, almost after the same manner as Plants are suppos'd to be nourish'd; or by Juxta position and Incrustation, as Bezoar (whether Fossile or otherwise generated) is produc'd, or Stones grow in the Kidneys. But chuse which Hypothesis you will, and after you have dili∣gently examin'd the Formation of Shells in those places which you call their natural Beds, it will appear, that the same account may be given of the Shells on the Hills of Certaldo as of those that are found on the shore at Leghorn, excepting only those that are said to be genera∣ted with the Animals by the Seed in the Eggs.

I foresee one Objection which you will in∣fallibly urge against me, if you be not prevented by a timely Answer. You will tell me, that Shells are inseparable from Fishes, Snails, or

other such like Animals, for whose use alone Nature produces 'em, according to the common Axiom, That Nature does nothing in vain.

To dispatch this pretended Difficulty without wandering from the subject of our present Con∣troversie, I shall only put you in mind of those Shells that are sometimes found in the Kidneys, Imposthumes, and Stomach, of which we have such* 1.180 exact and late accounts, that the Matter of Fact is undoubtedly certain: for if I should ask you for what Creatures these Shells are ge∣nerated, you must be forc'd to have recourse to some Distinctions of your Aphorism, which may be easily accommodated to my Hypothesis.

If you think to elude the force of these In∣stances, by saying, That a Shell in an Im∣posthume is a sort of Monster, from which we must not draw a general Conclusion; I answer, That I will neither dispute about Words, nor make too general Conclusions. If Shells in the Kidneys, or in Imposthumes, be call'd Monsters in your Dictionary, you may, if you please, bestow the same Title on those of Certaldo. Neither must you start new Difficulties, by com∣paring the multitude of these with the small number of those others; for if the Kidney were as big as a Mountain, and contain'd as great a quantity of Matter fit for the formation of Shells, as the Hill of Certaldo, we should doubtless find Ten thousand Shells instead of one in that part of the Body; and Ten thou∣sand Monsters of the same nature, form'd at the same time, in the same place, and by the same Accident, ought not to be reckon'd more than One.

I could easily answer all your Objections after the same manner, but, for a further illustration of my Hypothesis, I shall consider more particularly the word in vain, Nature does nothing in vain, 'tis true; but that Shells without Fishes are useless Productions of Nature, I deny. The variety of the Works of God in all his Creatures is universally acknowledg'd, and the reason of it is plain. Thus those Fossil Shells that are found in the Heart of Stones and Marble, were not made in vain; tho' they never enclos'd a Fish, nor any other living Creature. The Stones call'd Ammon's Horns, were not form'd in vain; tho' they never grac'd the Forehead of a Ram. The Tongue-like Stones, or* 1.181 Glossopetra's of Malta, were not produc'd in vain; tho' they never wagg'd in the Mouth of an Animal. The same may be also said of the Stones call'd Astro∣ites, Belemnites, Dactyli Judaei, and an infinite number of other variously shap'd Fossils resem∣bling Plants, Fruits, Flowers, Animals, and Human Faces. And why then should Nature be confin'd from sporting her self in the pro∣duction of Shells, and at the same time suffer'd to act on all other occasions with an uncon∣troul'd Liberty, or, to speak more properly, with a perpetual and admirable Variety.

Pisa, the second City of Tuscany,* 1.182 Seat of an Archbishopric and University, and formerly a potent Republic, is situated on the River Arno, in an even and exactly level Plain. It is a great City, and once deserv'd the Name of a very lovely place. The Streets are large, streight, and pav'd with great Stones; and, generally

speaking, the Houses are still well built. The Arno is navigable, twice as broad as the Tiber at Rome, and divides the City into two almost equal parts: 'tis pity that so fine a place should be so poor and ill inhabited; for the Grass is pretty high in several parts of it. This deso∣late condition of Pisa is doubtless an Effect of the Miseries it suffer'd during its last War with the Florentins, for it was pillag'd and almost wholly ruin'd by those pitiless Conquerors. And 'tis plain, that the City of Leghorn lately built at the Haven of Pisa, has robb'd it of a great number of its Inhabitants▪

The structure of the Cathedral is not much unlike to that of the Church of Siena, but the former is greater than the latter, and much more advantageously situated in the middle of a fine Court or Yard. The Baptistery and fa∣mous leaning Tower are two considerable Build∣ings, in the same Court, about thirty or forty paces from the Church, on each side of it, and in the same line. It is overlaid with fine Mar∣ble, and of an uniform Architecture.

* 1.183The Baptistery is round and arch'd, ending in a Cupola like St. Peter's Dome, or the Domes you have seen at Paris. There is an Eccho here that magnifies a Noise extreamly; and the sound of a Blow or Cry lasts as long in it as the tingling of a great Bell.

As for the Tower, some Authors are of opi∣nion, that it was the Mason's Fancy to build it thus

leaning; others say, That it does not really lean; but that the Eye is cheated by a secret and artificial contrivance of the Architect: And there are some who pretend, that it seems to lean to all sides, ac∣cording to the different position of the Spectator. But they are all equally mistaken, and in vain strive to find out a Mystery where there is none; for any reasonable and attentive Considerer will be easily convinc'd by his own Observation, without further Proof, that the Tower does really lean, and that its inclination was acciden∣tally occasion'd by the sinking of part of its Foundation. The heighth of this Tower amounts to One hundred eighty and eight feet,* 1.184 and it has the Figure of a perfect Cylinder: The Platform or Balcony on the top is surroun∣ded with Rails, from whence having let fall a Plummet on the side that enclines most, after se∣veral Tryals to the right and left hand, I found that my Lead touch'd the Ground exactly at the distance of fifteen feet from the Foundation.

The Burying-place call'd Campo Santo, be∣cause of the Earth which the Pisans* 1.185 brought from the Holy Land in the year 1228, is a kind of Cloyster, 190 paces long and 66 broad, comprehending the breadth of the Portico's. It contains a great number of Tombs: Here I ob∣serv'd an ancient Inscription fix'd against the Wall under one of the Portico's, which is a De∣cree of the City of Pisa, occasion'd by the death of Caesar, ordaining the People to wear Mourn∣ing a whole year, and in the mean time to ab∣stain from all public Divertisements.

I will not trouble you with a description of the Garden of Simples, or of the Collection of Natural Curiosities in the School of Physic; for I could not find any Rarities in 'em which I had not already seen in other places.

The* 1.186 Knights of St. Stephen have their resi∣sidence at Pisa. You are not ignorant that this is the Great Duke's Order, and that it was in∣stituted by Cosmo I, in the year† 1.187 1561. The Church of the Order is very full of Standards, Ship-Lanthorns, and other Spoils taken from the Turks; and over against it, in the Place, is the Statue of the Founder.

* 1.188Pisa is fourteen miles distant from Leghorn: The interjacent Country is flat, and the Way lies for the most part through Woods of ever green Oaks, Cork-Trees, and Wild Myrtles. 'Tis said, that all these Forests were formerly cover'd by the Sea, which reach'd within three miles of Pisa, to a place where there is now a great Church, at the entry of the Woods. They tell us, That one day, as St. Peter was fishing, there arose a Tempest, which drove him to this very place, where he was shipwreck'd. And they add, That he erected an Altar there, about which the Church was built by a certain Pope some Ages afterward. It would be needless to relate the rest of the Story.

I have already told you, that Leghorn is a modern City; it is situated on a flat Ground, and surrounded with handsom Fortifications cover'd over with Brick: the Streets are large, streight as a Line, and parallel; the Houses are generally of equal heighth, and almost all painted on the outside.* 1.189 The Harbour is not so well stor'd with Ships as several others, but the Trade of the Bank is very considerable. This is the only Sea-Port in the Dukedom of Tuscany, and the station of the Great Duke's Galleys. There is a House built on purpose for the Slaves, or a kind of Hospital, in which they lye, contrary to the Custom of all other pla∣ces.

In our Journey from Leghorn to Lucca we were forc'd to pass a second time thro' Pisa, three miles on this side of which we saw the rugged Mountain of St. Julian, which divides Tuscany from the Signiory of Lucca.

Lucca is situated in the midst of a fertile Plain, which extends fifteen or twenty miles,* 1.190 according to its various dimensions, and is sur∣rounded with very rich and well-inhabited Hillocks. The Fortifications of the City are pretty regular, and well lin'd, but their Foun∣dations are level with the Plain. We walk'd round the Ramparts in one hour, which is an Argument of the smallness of the Town; but to make amends, it contains many great Hou∣ses, and exceeds Pisa in the number of its Inha∣bitants by almost one half.

Here they carried us to see the Palace of the Republic, where the* 1.191 Gonfalonnier lodges with his nine Counsellors call'd Anziani. We were inform'd, that these Magistrates do also usually eat together in this Palace, while their Wives and Families in the mean time live at home. The State of Lucca is a Fief of the Empire, and under its protection: The Government is purely Aristocratical, for the Soveraignty is lodg'd in the Council of Two hundred and forty No∣bles, who are divided into two Bodies, which succeed one another every six months, with the Gonfalonnier at their Head. The Office of this Chief Magistrate of the Republic is not unlike to that of the Doges of Venice and Genoua, save only in this respect, that he continues but two months in the possession of the supreme Digni∣ty, by which he receives no other Advantage than the maintaining of his Table at the pub∣lic Charge, during that time. He wears a Bon∣net and Stole, with a Robe of Crimson Velvet, and has the Title of a Prince, tho' he is only stil'd His Excellency. He may be chosen again to the same Dignity, after an interval of six years; and his ordinary Guard consists of threescore Switzers.

From the Palace we enter'd into the Arsenal, where there is a considerable quantity of Arms for so small a State, and besides, they are kept in good order.

From thence we went to the Cathedral, to see the Chapel of the Volto Santo. 'Tis said, That Nicodemus having often attempted in vain to paint a Crucifix, the Angels that beheld his fruitless Labours took his Pencil from him, and

finish'd this Piece. They cannot give a posi∣tive account how this Picture was first brought to the Church of St. Fredian, but they assur'd us, that it remov'd from thence to the Cathe∣dral, and remain'd hanging in the Air in the same place where we saw it, till they had built an Altar under it, on which it rested, and about which they afterwards built a magnificent Cha∣pel. This Image does not work so many Mira∣cles as several others; but every thing that it does is wonderful in the highest degree. 'Tis the principal Object of the Devotion of these People, and they stamp it on their Coyn with the Arms of the Republic.

You may easily imagin that this Crucifix met with a very kind reception at the Cathedral;* 1.192 yet 'tis hard to divine the Reason why it pre∣ferr'd St. Martin to St. Fredian, since 'tis certain that this City was much more oblig'd to the latter than to the former. The number of the Favours and good Offices it receiv'd from him is almost infinite; but his saving it from the Inundation of the Cerchio deserves to be parti∣cularly remember'd. One day, when St. Fre∣dian was at Lucca,* 1.193 the River began to swell prodigiously, and threatned the City with a dreadful Inundation; but the holy Man com∣manded it immediately to change its course, and to follow him without murmuring whither∣soever he should conduct it; and his Orders were instantly obey'd, to the great Joy and Astonishment of all the People.

In the same Saints Church there is a Marble Table seventeen foot long, about six and a half broad, and fourteen inches thick, the Story of

which is contain'd in the following Inscription. O quisquis legis, lapis es, ni lapis hic te moveat in admirationem & culium D. Frediani, qui templo huic construendo, molem hanc in montibus ad quar∣tum lapidem nactus, viribus impar, sed spiritu fervens, mirâ facilitate manibus humerisque suis & Canonico∣rum in plaustrum binis indomitis vacculis trahendum impositum, sexto salutis saeculo, hac in Aede statuit sa∣crum Monumentum.

In the middle of the same Church we took notice of a Tomb-stone with these words in∣scrib'd upon it, Hic jacet corpus Sancti Riccardi Regis Angliae: Here lyes the Body of St. Richard King of England. I cannot imagine who this Royal Saint should be,* 1.194 Richard I. if my Memo∣ry does not deceive me, dy'd in France of a Wound, after his return from his Voyage be∣yond Sea, and was interr'd in the Abbey of Fontevraut. Richard II. was dethron'd by the Parliament and the Duke of Lancaster, and af∣terwards stabb'd at Pomfret, from whence his Body was carried first to St. Paul's, then to Langley, and at last to Westminster, where his Tomb still remains. And Richard III, who was no more a Saint than his two Predecessors of the same Name, but rather a very wicked man, was slain at Bosworth in Leicestershire, and buried in the City of Leicester. Besides, I do not re∣member that ever there was a King Richard in England before the reunion of the Heptarchy. So that this Epitaph puzzl'd us all: However, I will not at present entertain you with our Conjectures concerning it, but you will do us a singular pleasure by communicating yours to us.

I cannot forbear relating to you the Story of our Lady of St. Austin's, for perhaps you never heard of a more pleasant Trick play'd by an Image. A certain Souldier having lost conside∣rably at Dice, fell into a rage, and at last laid the blame of his ill Fortune on our Lady, who was then plac'd against the Wall of the Court of Guard, and after he had call'd her a thou∣sand hard Names, to crown his Insolency, he threw a Stone at her, which was levell'd direct∣ly against the Head of the little Jesus. But our Lady, says the Story, perceiving the danger, pre∣vented the blow, by tossing her Child so nimbly from her right Arm to her left, that he receiv'd not the least hurt.

To preserve the Memory of this Event, the little Jesus stuck so close to his Mother's left Arm, that she could not with all her strength bring him to his former place; so that she was e'en forc'd to let him have his Humour, and he re∣mains upon her left Arm to this very day, which is look'd upon as an undeniable Argument of the Truth of the Story, by the devout Pilgrims who come to visit this Image. To make an end of the Story, the Earth open'd on a sud∣den, and swallow'd up the impious Soldier. The Hole is still there, and these charitable Devotees are very careful to admonish the curious Stranger not to come near it, because it is, in their Opinion, the very Mouth of Hell: but certainly such a dangerous place ought to be rail'd in.

You are not ignorant that several noble* 1.195 Fa∣milies of Lucca retir'd to Geneva, about the time of the Reformation.

The Country between Lucca and Florence is fertile and well cultivated.* 1.196 Pistoya is in the middle, twenty miles distant from each of 'em. This is a very poor and desolate City, especial∣ly since it lost its liberty; for tho' it can make a shift to live on the fat of the Land, it can ne∣ver grow rich without Trade, of which it is wholly destitute. It is bigger than Lucca; its Streets are large and streight, and the Remain∣ders of its ancient Beauty are sufficient to con∣vince us that it was formerly a fine City.

The Inhabitants of Pistoya have a particular veneration for St. James, because they were for∣merly assisted by him, and have still a great num∣ber of his Relics. He has a Chapel in the Cathedral,* 1.197 where I observ'd a Prayer directed to him, in which he is call'd the First or Chief of the Apostles; Tu qui primatum tenes inter Aposto∣los, imo qui eorum primus, &c.

Some think the Factions of the Guelphs and Gibelins were so call'd from Guelph and Gibel, two Brothers and Gentlemen of Pistoya, of whom the elder espous'd the Quarrel of Pope Gregory the Ninth, while the second asserted the Interest of the Emperor Barbarossa. But I should rather embrace the Opinion of those who derive the Names of those Factions from the illustrious and potent† 1.198 Families of the Guelphs and Gibellins, who were at enmity with one another, long be∣fore their Jealousies and Animosity were rais'd to the utmost heighth, by their declaring, one for the Emperor, and t'other for the Pope.

The above-mention'd Etymology of St. Kathe∣rine will, I'm afraid, appear so ridiculous to you, that you will perhaps be tempted to susp••ct I invented it; but I assure you I took it from the famous Golden Legend: and both to clear my self of such a suspicion, and to divert you after so long a Letter, I shall sub∣join some other Etymologies of the same stamp, which I read not long ago, and remember pret∣ty exactly.

To begin with St. Christina, my Author tells you, That her Name signifies anointed with Cream, because she had the Balm of Sweet Odour, and the Oil of Devotion. Would you not have dis∣cover'd this rare Etymology at the first glance?

Damian, he proceeds, had his Name from the Hand of God, Main de Dieu, because he wrought divinely. Beatrix is an Abridgment of two Words, Blessed and Sad, Benoiste and Triste. Martin was so call'd, because he kept the Field of Battel against Vices; or as one should say, Ung des Mar∣tyrs, des Martyrs ung, d' Martyrs in, Martyrin, Martin. And is not this as plain as the deriva∣tion of Equus from Alfana, or of the word Lackey from Verna? George comes from Ge or Earth, and Orge, Barley, that is a Cultivater of Barley. Siphorian is deriv'd from Symphony, for he chanted the sweet Tunes of Virtue. Maurice comes in a streight line from Amen and Cis, that is Vomiting hard, and Us, which signifies Counsel∣lor, or Hasty. Vomiting, by reason of his throw∣ing off Superfluities; Hard, because be endur'd Tor∣ments; Counsellor, because he admonish'd the Knights his Companions; and Hasty, from the ardour of his Zeal. This is as clear as a Sun-beam.

S. Gorgonian is originally deriv'd from Gorgos, which signifies Subject, or from Gonos, that is, an Angel, and Denan, which is interpreted Fruit, for he was Subject to God without an Angel, and was afterwards made new Fruit by Martyrdom. Alexis is as one should say issant de Loy, issuing out of the Law, for he issued from the Law of Marriage to pre∣serve his Virginity. Jerome comes from Norma, a Rule; Cecilia from Lis du Ciel, the lilly of Hea∣ven; Cyprian from Cypris; Saturnian from Sa∣turace nuce, because the Pagans and Heathens glut∣ted themselves with his Torments, as the Crow gluts her self with devouring Nuts. When you have a mind to a second Service, my venerable Legend will furnish you with a plentiful one; but I be∣lieve you have enough at present. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Florence, May 17. 1688.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

I Would not neglect the occasion of writing to you the day after our arrival at Florence, tho' I could not then give you any account of this lovely City. We have seen so many things in it since, that my Journal would furnish me with sufficient matter for a Volume. But, in pursuance of my wonted method, I shall in the first place give you a brief description of it, and afterwards proceed to communicate some particular Observations, which perhaps will be new to you.

Florence, the chief City of Tuscany, Seat of an Archbishop, and Residence of the Great Duke,* 1.199 is situated on the River Arno, as it were in the middle of the Arena or bottom of an Amphi∣theater. At the distance of four or five miles, excepting only the side that looks towards Pi∣stoya, it is surrounded with very fertile Hillocks, which rise insensibly, and by degrees unite themselves to the high Mountains. The vast number of Houses which cover both the little Hills, and the interjacent Plain, make a very delightful and admirable Prospect. If from one of the Towers of Florence you took a view of this large Bottom, so full of Villages and Hou∣ses

of Pleasure, you would think it were an al∣most infinite continuation of the Suburbs of the Town; and it may be justly said, that this rich and delicious Valley is the best inhabited place in the World.

I was inform'd by a curious and exact Per∣son, that the Walls of this City are just Fifteen thousand Two hundred and forty Brasses or Fathoms in compass; and that the River Arno, which runs thro' it, is Five hundred Fathoms broad; so that reckoning the double breadth of the River, with the circumference of the Walls, the Circuit of Florence amounts in all to Sixteen thousand Two hundred and forty fa∣thoms. Three of these Fathoms make exactly five Feet and eight Inches English measure; and consequently 16240 Fathoms amount to Thirty thousand six hundred and seventy five Feet, which you may reduce as you think fit. The City is pretty round.

The same Person assur'd me, that Florence contains within its Walls Eight thousand and eight hundred Houses, Sixty thousand Souls, Two and twenty Hospitals, Eighty and nine Convents, Fourscore and four Fraternities, a Hundred fifty and two Churches, Eighteen Halls or Galleries belonging to Merchants, Seventy and two Courts of Justice, six Columns, two Pyramids, four Bridges, seven Fountains, seventeen Places or Courts, and a Hundred and sixty public Statues. The Streets are pav'd with large pieces of a greyish Stone, call'd Pietra forte, which is brought from the neigh∣bouring Quarries. A good number of the Houses are built with the same Stone, and

many of 'em are extraordinarily large and beautiful. And even there are some who pre∣tend that the Florentine Palaces, to speak after the Italian manner are the handsomest Structures in Italy.

The* 1.200 Palace Pitti, where the Great Duke lodges, is a magnificent Building, and extoll'd beyond measure by the People of the Country. Yet I observ'd one fault in it, which is the lit∣tleness of the Court with respect to the Build∣ing: you will be of the same opinion after I have told you, that the heighth of the Palace to the Cornish of the third Order amounts to a hundred and twenty two feet, and yet the Court is but a hundred and sixty foot long, and a hun∣dred and forty broad: so that you cannot chuse a place in all the Court to view the Palace, with∣out lifting up your Head in a very troublesome manner.

Before we enter'd into the old Ducal Palace,* 1.201 where all those rare and precious things are to be seen that make so great a noise in the World, we took a view of the Statues in the Place or Court. I shall only name these following; the David, by Michael Angelo; the Judith, by Dona∣telli; the fair Sabin Woman violently carried away, by John of Bologna; the Perseus of Brass, by Cellini; the Hercules and Cacus, by Bandinelli; and the Brass Statue on Horseback of Cosmo I, by John of Bologna. These are all admirable Pieces. The three Basso-relievo's on the Pedestal of the last-nam'd Statue represent Cosmo I. kneel∣ing before the Pope to† 1.202 receive from him the Title of Great Duke; the same Prince making his public entry into Florence in a kind of trium∣phal

Chariot; and the Ceremony that was so∣lemniz'd when the Senate of Florence resign'd the Soveraign Authority to him, by investing him with the Ducal Dignity.

The great Gallery of the Palace is almost Four hundred foot long; the underfretting of the Roof is painted; and we walk'd between two Ranks of Statues and Busts, which are al∣most all Antique Pieces. On the top, against the Wall, are the Portraictures of the ancient Philosophers on one side, and those of famous Captains on the other.

* 1.203Among the most beautiful and rare Statues they made us observe in the first place that of Brass which is cloth'd and thought to be Scipio's; the Leda receiving Jupiter's Embraces with a pleasure mix'd with shame; the antique Bacchus, accompanied with a Copy by Michael Angelo not inferiour to the Original; the Julia Daughter of Augustus, the Pomona, the Venus, the Diana, the Apollo, another Bacchus, the Peasant striking a Boar, the Busts of all the Emperors to Galienus, and especially those of Adrian, Pertinax, and Severus.

From this Gallery we pass'd thro' several Chambers full of Rarities. I observ'd in the first a branch'd Candlestick of great pieces of Amber, a fair Column of Oriental Alabaster, a Rhinoceros's Horn of an unusual bigness, many Basso-relievo's, and other antique Sculptures; Me∣dals, Idols, and Sepulchral Lamps; Stones, Mi∣nerals, and other natural Curiosities.

In the second there is nothing but Pictures.* 1.204 The third is call'd the Chamber of Mathematics, where among other things there are Globes and a Sphere, which contain seven feet in dia∣meter. The fourth is hung with Pictures, which exceed those of the second; besides which, I took notice particularly of a Cabinet of Ebony, with its Ornaments of Amber, Ivory, and pre∣cious Stones; the great rough Emerald rooted in its Rock; and the Platform of Leghorn de∣scrib'd on a Table of Lapis Lazuli. The Pi∣ctures of illustrious Persons of the present Age are the principal Ornaments of the fifth Cham∣ber. Among the Generals of Armies and great Captains, I observ'd three Englishmen, Cromwel, General Monk, and the late Earl of Ossory, Son to the present Duke of Ormond. In the sixth there are a Hundred thirty and seven Pictures of the most famous Painters, done by them∣selves. The seventh is adorn'd with Vessels of Porcelain. And the five following are full of an amazing number and variety of Curiosities. They contain also great store of Arms of all Fashions and of all Countries, among which we took notice of a Musket with a Golden Barrel. Here is also the great Magnet, which us'd formerly to lift up fifty pounds of Iron, but at present its Vigor is much diminish'd. And the* 1.205 Horse-Tail, which is twenty foot long, may be justly reckon'd among these Curio∣sities.

The most precious and valuable Rarities are kept in the Octogonal Room, call'd the† 1.206 Tribune, which is twenty foot in diameter, and is co∣ver'd with an arch'd Dome. The Floor is

pav'd with several sorts of Marble artificially laid together; the Walls are hung with Crim∣son Velvet, beautified with an infinite number of rare Ornaments; the Windows are of Cry∣stal; and the inside of the Dome is overlaid with Mother of Pearl. Nothing is admitted into this place but what is of great value and exquisite Beauty. You have doubtless read, in Tavernier's Travels, the description of that love∣ly* 1.207 Diamond which justly claims the first rank among the Jewels of this Cabinet. Among other Rarities these deserve to be mention'd: an antique Head of Julius Caesar of one entire Turquoise as big as an Egg; a Cupboard full of Vessels of Agat, Lapis Lazuli, Cornelian, and Crystal of the Rock, the whole garnish'd with Gold and fine Jewels; a large Table and Cabi∣net of inlaid Work, wholly compos'd of orien∣tal Jasper, Calcedony, Rubies, Topazes, and other Precious stones admirably well wrought; a Collection of very rare Medals; a prodigi∣ous number of antique Pieces of carv'd and engrav'd Work, very entire, and extreamly well kept; select Pictures, or, to speak more properly, Masterpieces of the most excellent Painters; six Grecian Statues unconceivably beau∣tiful; two Men wrestling; the Peasant whet∣ting his Bill, and at the same time listening to Catiline's Conspiracy; a Fawn; a sleeping Cupid; a Venus six foot high, and another smaller by a foot, both of white Marble.

You will quickly know the last, when I have told you, that it is the famous Venus of Medicis. It must be acknowledg'd that this is the most charming Body, and the finest piece of Work∣manship

in the World. The Head of this in∣comparable Statue is turn'd a little towards her left Shoulder;* 1.208 she holds her right Hand be∣fore her Bosom, but at some distance; and with the other Hand she covers the part which Ladies blush to discover, which she does also without touching it. She bows down gently, and advances her right Knee, as it were to hide her self better if she could. That decent bashfulness which is so becoming an Ornament of the Fair Sex, with a spotless Modesty and Chastity are painted on her Face, and accom∣panied with a Sweetness, Beauty, Delicacy, and Air of Youth, that are altogether inexpressible. She wants nothing but Voice and Colour. Her round and tender Arm cleaves insensibly to her lovely Hand; her Neck is admirable; and, to conclude, this rare Masterpiece is a perfect imi∣tation of the fairest Nature.

From this Palace we pass'd thro' a little Gal∣lery of Communication to the ancient Palace of the Republic, where we saw the Furniture of the Wardrobe, and the rich Coach that was made for the solemnity of the Great Duke's Marriage. The great Hall of this Palace is a hundred seven∣ty and two foot long, and seventy four in breadth.

The Cathedral is a very large and stately Building, tho' several parts of it are of a Gothic Architecture. It is all cover'd over, within and without, and pav'd throughout with polish'd Marble of several Colours. Its length amounts to Four hundred and ninety feet, and its height to the top of the Cross on the Globe to Three hundred and eighty. 'Tis impossible to be wea∣ry

of viewing this noble Structure; but 'tis pity that it has not a Frontispiece.

The finest Statues in this Church are, the St. James, by Sansovin, against one of the Pillars which support the Dome; the Adam and Eve behind the great Altar, by Bandinello; the Statue of God the Father, the Dead Christ, and the An∣gel supporting him, on the same Altar, and by the same Hand. Critics find fault with Eve, because she is of greater stature than her Hus∣band.

The Painting in the Dome represents the Resurrection, and is the Work of Fred. Zucchero. It is highly esteem'd, tho' the Painter is blam'd for representing his Rising Bodies cloth'd and of different ages.

* 1.209But we observ'd a more considerable Fault, or rather an intolerable Blunder, in a Picture in the same Church, which nevertheless was made by Paul Ʋccello, a very skilful and celebrated Artist. He has painted a* 1.210 General of an Army on Horseback, and has made the Horse rest on the two Legs on the same side, while the other two are in motion: such a Mistake might per∣haps be excus'd in a Venetian, who was never out of that City, where Horses are as great Rarities as Elephants.

The Pieces of Moses's and Aaron's Rods are two of the most curious Relics in the Cathedral, tho' they seem to be of doubtful credit, since both the entire Rods are said to be at St. John de Lateran.

The Steeple is very near the Church, which is a square Tower a hundred and eighty foot high, overlaid with square pieces of red, white,

and black Marble, and adorn'd with several Statues. The old bald Man, by Donatelli is an excellent Piece. 'Tis said that Sculptor pre∣ferr'd his Zuccon before all his other Works, for that Figure represented one of his Friends, and really merited a particular Esteem.

The Baptistery is lin'd in the same manner as the Church, and its Structure is almost like to that of the Baptistery at Pisa; 'tis believ'd that it was formerly a Temple of Mars. After the Alterations that were made in it, when the Ca∣thedral was built, it was appointed to serve for a Baptistery, and dedicated to St. John Baptist. The Mosaic Work on the arch'd Roof is much valu'd; and among the Statues contain'd in this Temple, the Magdalen of Wood, by Donatelli, is particularly esteem'd. But the most admir'd Pieces are, the three brazen Gates, adorn'd with Basso-relievo's representing some sacred Histories. That on the Back-side, with this Inscription, Andreas Ʋgolini de Pisis me fecit 1330. is the least considerable, the other two are singularly beau∣tiful. They never forget to tell Strangers, that Michael Angelo thought he could not admire 'em sufficiently, and esteem'd 'em worthy to be the Gates of Heaven.

Dum cernit valvas aurato ex aere nitentes In Templo Michael Angelus, obstupuit. Attonitusque diu, sic alta silentia rupit,* 1.211 O Divinum Opus! O Janua digna Polo!

In the Court opposite to the middle Gate of this Baptistery, there are two Columns of Por∣phyry chain'd together, tho' they stand at some distance from each other. The Story says, That the Florentins having assisted the Pisans to conquer some part of the Isle of Majorca, ask'd two Pillars, which they found among the Spoils of the Enemies. Some add, That the Pisans being loth to part with these Monuments, but not daring to refuse 'em to their Allies, spite∣fully tarnish'd their Lustre in the Fire, and sent 'em in that condition cover'd with Velvet. But this Circumstance is deny'd by others.

I had almost forgot to mention the other Column which stands not far from the former: it was set up for a Memorial of a pretended Miracle which happen'd in that place, when the Body of St. Zenobius was remov'd from St. Law∣rence's to the Cathedral. His Shrine, says the Tradition, touch'd by chance the Trunk of a dry Tree which lay there, and immediately the Tree blossom'd, and put forth both Flowers and Fruit; I have forgot the rest of the Story.

St. Lawrence's Church is very large and rich; and I may venture to say, without being guil∣ty of a Hyperbole, that the famous Chapel, on which they have wrought so long, and with so much assiduity, will, when finish'd, be the finest Edifice of that nature in the World. I dare not undertake to describe it, but I cannot forbear to give you some Idea of it.

This magnificent Chapel is very large and high. In the middle of each Face of the Hexagon there rises a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a double Chapiter of Brass gilt, the Base being also of the same matter. On the Pedestal

of each Pilaster there are several Emblematical Figures compos'd of Precious Stones joyn'd to∣gether with all the Art imaginable. In the six Angles there are six stately Tombs of Porphyry, Oriental Granate, and some other of the most precious kinds of Marble. On each Tomb there is a great* 1.212 Pillow of Jasper enrich'd with divers sorts of Jewels, and on each Pillow a Crown, which is yet a great deal richer. The Pedestal or Base that supports the Tombs is overlaid with Porphyry and Calcedony, on which will be engrav'd the Epitaphs of the Princes for whom these Tombs are design'd. Their Statues of Brass gilt, twice as big as the Life, will be plac'd in the Niches of black Marble that are already prepar'd in the Wall over the Tombs. The inner Roof of the Dome will be of pure Lapis Lazuli, with Roses and other Ornaments gilt. All the rest of the Walls is lin'd in Compartments with fine Agats, rare Granates, Onyxes, and all sorts of Stones that are esteem'd precious; each Pannel being divi∣ded into squares, and embellish'd with other Or∣naments of Copper gilt. The Altar will surpass all the other parts of this admirable Structure; and to comprehend the Beauties of 'em all, your Imagination must rise higher than my im∣perfect Description is able to carry it.

The Library of St. Lawrence is particularly fa∣mous for its Manuscripts.* 1.213 I shall take this occa∣sion

to tell you, that M. Magliabecchi could not favour me with a sight of St. Chrysostom's Letter to Caesarius, having receiv'd express Orders from the Great Duke not to communicate it to any person whatsoever. But you may inform our Friend, that M. Magliabecchi positively assur'd me, that the Passage cited by Martyr is contain'd word for word in that Manuscript.

We went also to the Church of the Holy Cross, principally to see the Tomb of Michael Angelo; which is certainly a very considerable Monument; tho', in my opinion, not altogether suitable to the Merit of so great a person. In the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Zanchini, in the same Church, we observ'd on the Altar a Picture by Angelo Bronzini, in which Christ is represented delivering the Souls of the Fathers; among whom there are many Female Spirits that ap∣pear too gay and airy for an Altar-piece. And even some say, That she who bears the Name of Eve is the true Resemblance of the Painter's Mistriss. They add also, that the Figure of a Man at the right corner of the Picture below, looking stedfastly on the pretended Eve, is Bron∣zini's own Phiz. This puts me in mind of Pin∣turicchio, who, in the Vatican, painted Pope Alexander the Sixth prostrate at the Feet of Julia Farnese, under pretext of making him adore the Virgin.

Among the holy Rarities we observ'd in the Churches, besides the Rods of Moses and Aaron, which I mention'd before, I shall only name the Hood St. Francis wore when he was stigma∣tiz'd, which is to be seen in the Church of All-Saints. Two of Judas's thirty pieces of Silver

which are preserv'd in the Annunei••••••, and the Crucifix that spoke to St. Andrew•••• Ʋrsina, which is in the Church of the Carmelites.

The Monks of St. Mark make excellent Bal∣sams, and prepare all manner of Perfumes: we bought some of 'em, and had sometimes the pleasure to walk in their Cloysters and odorife∣rous Gardens, where we breath'd nothing but Oranges and Jesmins: But the truth is, there is not any part about Florence that is not altoge∣ther charming. The Great Duke has several fine Houses, of which we only saw Poggio Imperiale, and Pratinola. These are very pleasant places; and I may even venture to say they have Beau∣ties that are not common. But the magnificency of Gardens and Waterworks is advanc'd to such a heighth in France, that the best way to save the Credit of Frescati and Pratinola, is to pass over in silence all their petty Wonders that were for∣merly so highly extoll'd.

We visited also the Arsenal, and the Citadel of St. John Baptist, which is a strong place, and kept in good order. But the two Forts of Belvedere and St. Miniato are in a manner wholly neglected.

The Great Duke has diverse Nurseries for se∣veral sorts of Animals. Villani relates,* 1.214 That in the year 1331, two young Lions were cubb'd at Florence, who liv'd to grow great: The same Author writes, That at another time a Lion made his escape out of his Hole, and terrified the whole City; that having met a young Child,

whom he lifted up between his Paws without hurting it, the astonish'd Mother ran with Cries and Tears to the ravenous Animal, who looking stedfastly upon her, restor'd the Child, without offering the least Violence to either of 'em.

I must not conclude this Letter without men∣tioning those Stones found on the Mountains near Florence, which being saw'd thro' the mid∣dle, and afterwards polish'd, some of 'em re∣present several sorts of Trees, and others are mark'd with the Figures of Towns and ruin'd Castles. Kircher calls the former Dendrites, from the Images of Trees that appear on 'em; and the same Author makes several curious Remarks on this occasion, which I will not insist upon in this place, since doubtless you remember 'em as well as I.

There is one thing more which I must not forget to tell you; for tho' Florence is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World, and has the advantage of a most delicious situation, yet it must appear a very sad and melancholy place to those who are accustom'd to enjoy the Pleasures of Society. Sir — D. who, you know, has resided here for several years, is not able to express his uneasiness under the intolerable Con∣straint and eternal Ceremonies of this place, and particularly exclaims against the Invisibility of the beautiful Sex; and indeed, these Customs can never be endur'd by any but such as are ac∣custom'd to 'em from their Infancy. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Florence, May 23, 16••••.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

WE could not find one Litter at Florence, to carry us to Bologna; I know not by what Accident the whole Country was cover'd with a Deluge of Monks, who took up all the easie Carriages: We had two days Journey to make thro' a very rough and mountainous Country; 'tis true, 'tis not impassable in a Ca∣lash, but we should have been oftentimes forc'd to alight and walk afoot, and therefore we re∣solv'd to make use of Horses.

The Way between Florence and Bologna is a perpetual Chain of the Apennin Mountains; the highest we met with in our passage is call'd Monte Juovo. The Country, generally speaking, is barren and desart, only the Valleys of* 1.215 Scar∣peria, and† 1.216 Fiorenzola deserve a somewhat better character: the first of these places is famous for Cutler's Work, where for five or six pence you may buy a Knife, with a dozen of Blades to one Handle; and you may have some of all prices.

'Tis observ'd, that towards the Village of Pietra-mala the Air sparkles sometimes during the night.

A little on this side, between Pietra-mala and Loyano, at the Village of Scari calassino, are the limits of Tuscany; the Great Duke of Tuscany's Arms are on one side of a Post, and the Pope's on the other.

From the top of the last Hills which end at Bologna, we discover'd the Sea on our right hand, and directly opposite to us we had a full view of the vast and admirable Plain of Lombardy, which spreads its self along the Po, between the Alps and Apennine Hills: the surface of the Sea is every where spherical, and therefore we can see but a little part of it at once; but Lom∣bardy being exactly level, discovers a prodigious extent of Land, especially if it be view'd from a rising Ground.

The Apennin sinks by degrees into little fertile Hills,* 1.217 as it approaches Bologna, which is* 1.218 seated at the foot of the Hills and opening of the plain Country: to take a full prospect of it, you must go up to the Convent of St. Michael in Bosco, where at the same you will have the plea∣sure to see one of the most magnificent Mona∣steries in Italy. 'Tis certain, there are few sove∣raign Princes whose Palaces are near so beauti∣ful. I know not whether the Monastery of the Dominicans, and that of St. Saviour, are inferiour to this; but in the general I can assure you, the Convents in Bologna are extreamly large and very magnificent.

Bologna is the Seat of an Archbishop,* 1.219 and the second City in the Ecclesiastical State; 'tis reckon'd to be somewhat greater and even richer than Florence, and to contain more Inhabitants by a third part: 'tis enclos'd only with a single Wall, and has no Citadel. After it had been cruelly harass'd by Foreign Wars and Intestine Broils, it was forc'd at last to throw its self in∣to the Arms of the* 1.220 Pope. But tho' the People of Bologna surrender'd up their Liberties, and became a part of his Holiness's Dominions, yet they made a kind of honourable composition with their new Master, and submitted only on these terms,† 1.221 That he should never put 'em un∣der the Lash of a Citadel; that the Estates of the Citizens should never be subject to confisca∣tion under any pretext whatsoever; and that they should still have an Auditor of the Rota, and an Ambassador at Rome. All which Con∣ditions have been faithfully observ'd hitherto.

The Ʋniversity was founded in the year 425,* 1.222 by Theodosius the younger, but it ows its chief splendor to Charlemain: It is with respect to this University that the City stamps upon its Coin Bononia docet; and the word Libertas is also ad¦ded in the Coat of Arms.

The little River Arno that passes by the City could not make it a fit place for Traffic, but for the Canal of Communication by which it is join'd to the Po. There are in this City Four hundred Silk-mills; and besides, the Inhabitants trade in Wax, Hemp, Flax, Hams, Sauciges, Soap, Tobacco, and Perfumes: They sold their

little Dogs very dear when they were more in fashion than they are at present. They tell a pleasant Story of a certain honest Traveller, a Native of Limoges in France, who in his pas∣sage thro' this Town observing what vast sums were paid for these little Creatures, went im∣mediately home to his own Country, and re∣turn'd with a whole Kennel of Mastiffs, hoping to sell 'em at much dearer rates, proportiona∣bly to their weight and bulk.

The Houses are generally built of Stone or Brick, plaister'd over; and there are also some of hewn Stone. Almost all the Streets have double Portico's, as at Padua, but here they are both larger and higher, not unlike to those in Covent-Garden. The Streets are also pretty streight, and, all things consider'd, it may be said, that Bologna is both a good and a fine Town. The Women are not so much confin'd as at Florence; we saw a considerable number, and some of 'em are very handsom. The richer sort endeavour as much as they can to imitate the French Fashions, as they do almost every where else.

General Caprara's Palace is one of the finest in the City. Here we saw many rich Spoils which he took from the Turks.

* 1.223The Cardinal-Legate, and the Gonfalonier with his Counsellor's Lodge in the public Palace, above the Portal of which there is a Statue in Brass of Gregory XIII, and on one side of it that of Boniface VIII. In the same Palace we saw the Cabinet of Curiosities of* 1.224 Aldroandus. That of the Marquiss of Cospi is united to it, and the whole belongs to the City. Every

Piece in these Cabinets has its Name written upon it.* 1.225 We observ'd the Picture of a Wo∣man, whom Aldroandus says he saw, who had a long and thick Beard like a Capuchin Fryar.

But there is nothing in both these Cabinets so rare and surprizing as what I am going to relate to you. In a Chamber at the side of this we saw a hundred and eighty seven Vo∣lumes in folio, all written by Aldroandus's own Hand, with more than two hundred Bags full of loose Papers: 'Tis true, the Margins are large, and the Lines at a considerable di∣stance.

I forgot to tell you, that between the Sta∣tues of the Popes, on the Front of this Palace, there is a Latin Inscription, which says, That the Emperor Charles V, and Pope Clement VII. meeting together at Bologna, in November 1529, gave Peace to all Italy; after which the Pope* 1.226 crown'd the Emperor in the Church of St. Pe∣tronius; that afterwards they made a triumphant procession thro' the whole City, and remain'd all the succeeding Winter together in it.

Another Inscription relates the Miracle wrought by an Image of our Lady, who deli∣ver'd Bologna from the Plague. It begins thus: Adeste O Sol & Luna Testes, &c.

In another place, one nam'd† 1.227 Ʋgolino is pain∣ted on the Wall, hanging by a Foot, with these words, Ʋgolino traditore filatugliero alla Pa∣tria.

The great and beautiful Fountain over-against the Palace is the Work of the famous John of Bologna, a Flemish Architect and Scul∣ptor.

St. Petronius's is the greatest Church in the City. Here we observ'd Cassini's Meridian Line, which is drawn on a Copper Plate set in the Pavement, and is Two hundred and twenty two foot long. The situation of the Church is al∣most East and West; so that the Line begin∣ning at the entrance of the great Body on the left hand, passes between the Pillars without any Obstacle, almost to the end of the little Nave. Directly over the Noon-point of this Line there is a little hole in the arch'd Roof of the last Nave, thro' which a Ray of the Sun enters, and marks the Solstices and Equinoxes upon the Line. This is an unerring Sign, and the Ope∣ration may be easily perform'd in a convenient place;* 1.228 for the whole Secret consists in measu∣ring the degrees on the Line, proportionably to the heighth of the hole thro' which the Ray enters.

At the Church of Corpus Domini they shew an embalm'd Body, which is black and dry, like a Mummy, and pretend that 'tis the Body of a * 1.229 Saint that works many Miracles. She is sea∣ted on a Stool, and muffl'd up in a hundred sorts of Hoods, with many Rings on her Fin∣gers. Her Nails and Hair, if you will believe our Informers, grow as much now as when she was alive; which was the first and principal

Mark of Holiness that laid the Foundation of her Fame. 'Tis impossible to behold such a ghastly Spectacle without Horror.

They have also an extraordinary veneration for an Image of our Lady, made by St. Luke, and are perswaded that she would infallibly come once every year to visit 'em, if they did not go to her: But they are too complaisant not to take a Journey of five miles to wait up∣on her at the place of her residence;* 1.230 and for three days afterwards they carry her about the City with more Pomp and Ceremony than was us'd in the Reception of Charles the Fifth, and Clement the Seventh. The Companies of Arti∣ficers, the Fraternities, Convents, Parishes, Ma∣gistrates, Gonfalonier, and Legat, assist all toge∣ther at the solemnity of this Procession. The Image is carried under a rich Canopy, and when she passes by, the Spectators throw them∣selves upon their Knees with Sighs and Groans that put us in mind of your Quakers in England.

We saw also the magnificent Chapel and Tomb of St. Dominic in the Church of the Do∣minicans. The Benches in the Quire are adorn'd with inlaid Work of several colours, done by Fryar Damian of Bergamo. The same Praises are given to this Work now, that were wont to be bestow'd on it formerly; for commonly one half of our Actions proceeds meerly from Cu∣stom: Nevertheless, that Art has been very much improv'd since those times; they have found out the Secret of imprinting natural Co∣lours on Wood; and in the general such Works are now perform'd with quite another turn, a great deal more delicacy and exactness.

In the same Church we saw the Tomb of * 1.231 Hentius King of Sardinia and Corsica, Bastard Son of the Emperor Frederic II. That young Prince was taken Prisoner by the Bolognians, as he was coming to assist their Enemies the Peo∣ple of Modena. His Father left no means un∣essay'd to procure his Liberty; he strove in vain to move the Bolonians, both with Prayers and Threatnings, and at last promis'd to† 1.232 sur∣round their City with a Circle of Gold; but they would never be perswaded to deliver their Prisoner. 'Tis true, they maintain'd him at the public charge, and treated him as a King, but as a captive King. He liv'd Two and twenty years, nine months, and sixteen days in con∣finement, and died in March 1272. There is an Epitaph on his Tomb that gives a particular account of the whole Story.

When I reflect on the Emperor's Offer, and the Obstinacy of that little Republic, I cannot forbear suspecting that there was some Myste∣ry in the Golden Circle: If Frederic had intended to make his promis'd Chain heavy, 'tis probable he would have offer'd some particular Sum, without using the ambiguous Expressions of Circles and Surrounding. And the Bononians would not have been so inexorable, if they had not fear'd to be deceiv'd, and perhaps imagin'd that the Circle would at last dwindle into a Thread.

Near the great Tower‖ 1.233 Asinelli there is ano∣ther, call'd Garisenda, which leans like the Tower

of Pisa. The general Opinion is, that its In∣clination is an effect of the singular Art of the Builder, whose Wit is no less admir'd here than the Timorousness of certain Monks is deri∣ded, who were so terrify'd by the leaning of the Tower, that they resolv'd to leave their Convent, which lay under it.

The Opinion of those who pretend that this Monument was purposely erected in a leaning posture, does certainly proceed from their Ig∣norance. It is a square and even Tower built of Brick, like that of Siena and Viterbo, men∣tion'd in one of my preceding Letters; it was not design'd for an Ornament, nor erected to display the Wit of the Architect; and, without doubt, it was more for the Interest of those that built it to secure the stability of its Foun∣dations, than to affect an useless singularity in its Structure. And, after all, it would not be a very difficult task to build an enclining Tower; you are not ignorant of the Reasons on which such an Operation might be ground∣ed, and you may try the Experiment when you please, by making a pile of the Men on your Tables. This Tower puts me in mind of a Story related by Childrey, one of your English Naturalists, that there is a Steeple in Bristol which is variously agitated, according to the motion of the Bells.

Before I came hither I had seen the Epitaph of that Proculus who lies interr'd in St. Proculus's Church in this City;

Si procul à Proculo, Proculi campana fuisset; Jam procul à Proculo, Proculus ipse foret.

But I always fancy'd, according to the common Opinion, that St. Proculus's Bell had knock'd out his Namesake's Brains; whereas I'm inform'd here, that this Proculus being a very studious person, accustom'd himself for several years to rise every Morning at the sound of that Bell; which was at last the occasion of his death.

The shining Stones so generally known under the name of the Bononian Stones, are found on the Hill of Paderno, three miles from the City. Barthol. Zunicheli is the only person that knows how to prepare 'em.

We find the Heats no less troublesome here than among the sandy Mountains of the Apen∣nins; but to make amends, we have Ice and all sorts of cooling Liquors: thro' all the Country the Men use Fans as well as the Women; there are some made of Paper, not unlike to a Fane or Weather-Flag, and sold for a penny. In our Inn we had a Machine that play'd on the Table to drive away the Flies.

We were frequently entertain'd with Lake-Tortoises, about the bigness of Trenchers; their Flesh is firm, and of a pretty good savour.

Last night about Sun-setting we left Bologna, and travell'd ten miles to San••ogia, a little Village equally distant from that City and Modena. We are assur'd, that henceforward the whole Coun∣try, as far as the Alps, is as smooth and even as a Bowling green, and that all the ways are bor∣der'd with till'd Grounds, and Vines supported by Trees planted Chequerwise: we have been already accustom'd to such Objects in several parts of Lombardy, and must expect to meet with almost nothing else: such a Disposition of

the Country is certainly good in its own nature, and very pleasant, but at last it grows offensive to the Eye of a Traveller; for the Sight is perpetually bounded with rows of Trees, and wants the necessary diversion of Variety.

Yesterday in the Evening,* 1.234 as we drew near to the above-mention'd Village, we saw a thing that appear'd very unusual, and not unpleasant to us, tho' 'tis not at all heeded by the People of the Country, by reason of its commonness. All the Hedges were cover'd with prodigious Swarms of Shining Flies, and every Bush seem'd to be on fire. The Fields and Trees were no less full of 'em, and the whole Air was brigh∣ten'd by their lustre. You would have sworn, that either it rain'd Stars, or that these Lumi∣naries flew thro' the Skies; at least Philo would have been of that Opinion, who imagin'd all the Stars to be living Creatures.

These little* 1.235 Insects are almost of the shape of Locusts, but they are not above two Lines and a half long, and one Line in breadth. The shining part is a little pale yellow Hair under their Belly, which is stretch'd at every motion of their Wings, and at the same time darts forth a very bright glance of Fire.

We set forwards this morning very early, and in two hours arriv'd at Modena. By the way we saw the Fort of† 1.236 Ʋrban VIII, and a little on this side of it we cross'd the River Panaro, which separates the Territory of Bologna from the Dutchy of Modena.

Modena is situated in a good Country,* 1.237 but it is destitute of Trade, and consequently poor. Its Fortifications are in a decaying condition,

and its Streets are little and dirty. The Portico's with which almost all the Streets are border'd, as at Bologna, are low and narrow; neither are any of its Churches very remarkable. Fine Houses are Rarities in this place; and, all things consider'd, I may venture to assure you, that it would be hardly taken notice of, but for its an∣cient Reputation, and the residence of its Duke in i•• at present. The old Palace is an inconsi∣derable Building, but the new one, which is partly founded on the Ruins of the former, has very promising Beginnings: The Stables are handsom, and well stor'd. These are all the Beauties of Modena, with its Street appointed for Races, and the Walks on the Ramparts. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Modena, May 28. 1688.

LETTER XXX.

SIR,

OUR Calashes brought us in four hours from Modena to Regio.* 1.238 There is nothing particularly remarkable in this City; but in the general 'tis better built, and more pleasant than Modena. They boast much of their* 1.239 Church of St. Prosper, but they who have seen Rome and Naples will hardly be perswaded to admire the Churches of Regio. They strive also to gain some Reputation by their Works in Bone, and Spurs; as those of Modena do by their Masks; but these are poor Exploits to acquire Fame. Their finest Works in Bone are paltry little Rings, sold for Six-pence a dozen, Death-heads, Shrines for Relicks, Agnus Dei's, and Crosses, all which are made with Tools like Hedging Bills. They have store of† 1.240 Madones, and Relicks. I am inform'd, that some ancient Inscriptions have been found at Regio, in which that City is call'd Regium Lepidi, without mentioning who that Lepidus was. The other Regio in Calabria ulte∣rior bore the name of Regium Julium; and 'tis observ'd, that the Inhabitants of the first were by the Latin Authors call'd Regienses, whereas those of the latter were nam'd Rhegini. And the last Regium or Rhegium is also thought to be de∣riv'd from the Greek word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, because Italy

is divided, and as it were broken from Sicily at that place.

The Inhabitants of our Regio stile their Prince Duke of Regio and Modena; as, you know, the Scots put the name of their Country before that of England, in the Title of the King.

Eight miles from Regio we pass'd over the River Ensa on a Bridge, and enter'd, on the other side, into the Dutchy of Parma. The Country is still plain, but we meet with many Pastures; whereas about Bologna and Modena al∣most all the Grounds are till'd.

Parma is seventeen miles from the Bridge of Ensa; we perceiv'd the City at a considerable distance, because of the breadth and streight∣ness of the Road that leads to it, which disco∣vers its highest Spires. The entry into it is very pleasant, and the City it self deserves the same Character. Over the Gate thro' which we enter'd we saw the Arms of Pope Paul III. You know that Pontife created his Bastard Son Lewis, Duke of Parma and Placenza, these Terri∣tories having been before united to the Ecclesiasti∣cal State. The Citadel of Parma was built on the Model of that of Antwerp; and the Fortifi∣cations of the City are also very good. It is divided by the River of Parma, which runs thro' the middle of it; but this River is not navigable.

There is nothing extraordinary in the Ducal Palace, but they are building another which will be larger and more regular. The Stables are handsom, the Coaches very rich, and the Wardrobe well furnish'd. The great Theater

is a very rare Structure, and neither Paris nor Venice can boast of the like. It is extreamly large, and yet the softest Whisper may be heard thro' all the parts of it. Instead of Boxes, the Floor is surrounded with Benches, rais'd after the manner of an Amphitheater: It is also much larger than the Floors of Theaters are usually made, and may be fill'd with Water to the heighth of above three feet. This little Lake is cover'd with gilt Boats, which make a very charming Spectacle, by the help of a fine illumination.

Besides the ordinary Schools of the Universi∣ty, there is a large and fair College, call'd the College of the Nobility. They receive Scholars of all Nations, who are capable of being ad∣mitted Knights of Malta. Not only the Scien∣ces, but all manner of Exercises are taught here; and the Pensions are different, according to the variety of the Studies. The Scholars eat toge∣ther in a Refectory, and their number at present amounts to Two hundred and thirty.

The Dome of the Cathedral was painted by Corregio; and there are several good Pictures in the* 1.241 Principal Churches.

We saw a great deal of good Company at the Race, especially fair and handsom Women, but they observe the ridiculous Customs of Rome: for Persons of different Sexes never go into the same Coach; you may see a heap of Men in one Coach, and a troop of Women in another; and they would be as much asham'd to be seen together, as to walk stark naked about the Streets. Is there not a strange Medley of Humours and Prejudices in the World?

Parma is 35 miles distant from Placenza. In our Journey thither we pass'd by a little disman∣tled Town call'd St. Donino; we saw neither Villages nor Rivers on all this Road, that de∣serve to be mention'd.

* 1.242Placenza is seated in a Plain, five or six hun∣dred p••ces from the Po. It is a pleasant Town, bigger than Parma; the Houses are low, but very prettily built. The Race-street, which they call the Stradone, is streight as a Line, and of an equal breadth throughout. Next the Houses, on each side of it, there is a Foot-path fenc'd in by a row of Three hundred Posts, as at London; these Posts are just ten foot distant from each other; whence 'tis plain, that the whole Street is 3000 foot long.

The Statues of Alexander Farnese Governor of the Spanish Netherlands, and of his Son Rainuccio the First, are in the great Place.

We went up to the top of the highest Stee∣ple, according to our usual custom, from whence we discover'd an admirable Landskip, extreamly embellish'd by the course of the Po; and even saw Cremona distinctly, which is twenty miles distant from this place.

* 1.243I have not thought fit to mention the Chur∣ches of this City, and am resolv'd hereafter to trouble you very rarely with Descriptions of that nature; for, as I intimated to you before, when one's Head is full of the Idea's of such magnifi∣cent Churches as we have seen, 'tis almost a pain to him to look upon any others.

I shall only add concerning Placenza, that it is thinly inhabited; that the Houses are gene∣rally built of Brick; and that its Weights, Mea∣sures, and Coyns are different from those of Par∣ma. Its Fortifications are not very considerable, tho' they are commonly much extoll'd. The Pomaerium is surrounded with Posts, without any Buildings; I know not whether I made the same Observation concerning Leghorn, in one of my former Letters.

We follow'd the course of the Po, at some distance, till we came over against Cremona, where we cross'd over the River in a Ferry-boat. There are no Bridges on the Po below Turin.

Cremona is seated on the left Bank of that River, in the Dutchy of Milan.* 1.244 'Tis a pretty large City, but even poorer and less populous than Placenza. There is nothing at all to be seen in it, tho' its Tower and Castle are very much extoll'd. One of their Authors has the confidence to tell the World, That the Tower is reckon'd to exceed all others in heighth, and for that reason esteem'd one of the Wonders of Europe; and That the Castle is the strongest and most formidable Citadel in Italy. If I had not been accustom'd to the lofty and hyperbolical Expressions of the Italians, I should have been strangely surpriz'd, after all these Rhodomontades, to find nothing at Cremona worth observation. The Castle is an old, shapeless, and half-ruin'd Mass, which in its best state deserv'd not to be compar'd to a well contriv'd Fort, but perhaps might have been reputed tolerable in the days of Cross-bows. And the Tower is neither handsom nor very

high, but inferior to a thousand that are not so much as mention'd. It was built by Frederic Barbarossa, An. 1184. There is a Tradition, that the Emperor Sigismond and Pope John XXIII, went up to this Tower, with a certain* 1.245 Lord of Cremona, who repented afterwards, as he se∣veral times declar'd, That he did not throw 'em down from top to bottom, meerly for the rarity of the thing. And perhaps it was this Story that gave the first occasion to the Reflexions that have been made on the heighth of this Tower.

The Inhabitants of Cremona boast much of the Antiquity of their City, but they produce not any Monuments to confirm it. The Antiquity of Cremona has a very near resemblance to that of the Po.

In the distance of Forty miles from Cremona to Mantua, we saw nothing but Hamlets that deserve not to be nam'd.* 1.246 Only Bozzolo is a sort of a little City, enclos'd with certain Works which pass for Fortifications. It gives Title to a Duke, who, besides this place, is Soveraign of a Territory that ex••ends four or five miles. We pass'd the Oglio in a Ferry boat, a great and rapid River, that falls from the Lake of Isseo into the Po.

I soon perceiv'd, that neither the Geographi∣cal Charts, nor the other Descriptions I had seen of Mantua had given me a just Idea of its situa∣tion;* 1.247 for it is usually but falsly represented in the midst of a Lake, with which it is almost equally surrounded. To rectifie this Mistake,

it must be observ'd, that the* 1.248 River Mincio meeting with a flat Country, makes a kind of Marish about twelve or fifteen times longer than broad: and that the City is built on a spot of firm Land, within the Marish, but towards one side of it. Before we enter'd the City, we pass'd over a Causey,* 1.249 which is not above two or three hundred paces long; but on the other side which looks towards Verona, the Marish, or Lake (if it must be so call'd) is much wider. In some parts of it the Water is always in mo∣tion, but in others it stagnates and infects the Air to such a degree, that during the great Heats, the City is only inhabited by such who cannot conveniently leave it.

The situation of Mantua is not unlike to that of Peronne, but with this difference, that the last, besides its Marish, is well fortified; whereas Mantua is enclos'd only with a Wall, tho' 'tis also defended by a strong Citadel.

This City is of an indifferent largeness, about the bigness of Cremona, but much superior to it both in Riches and in the number of Inhabi∣tants. Some of the Streets are broad and streight, but the Houses are generally unequal, and almost all very indifferent. I have seen a printed description of the Ducal Palace, in which that Building is extoll'd as the most magnificent Structure in Italy. 'Tis plain, that the Author wracks his Fancy to invent new Terms, as if those that are now in use were not strong enough to express the Grandeur of his Subject; but such a groundless Zeal must either be an Effect of an excessive and unwarrantable Complaisance, or proceed from an unjust Prejudice. The out∣side

of this Structure is neither beautiful nor regular; and I can assure you from my own Experience, that a Stranger may pass by it, and even look upon it and touch it, without imagining it to be a Palace. 'Tis true, there are many Galleries and Apartments in it, and therefore it may be call'd large and commodious, which are the highest Epithets that can be be∣stow'd on it, as well as on White hall.

Our Guides assur'd us, that this Palace was very richly and magnificently furnish'd before it was* 1.250 pillag'd by the Imperial Army. It seems succeeding Princes have been discourag'd by the greatness of that loss from endeavouring afterwards to repair it; for many of the Rooms remain still empty. Nevertheless, it must be acknowledg'd, that there is not the least defect in the Duke's Apartment: the Hall of Anti∣quities is full of rare and fine Pieces, and the Cabinet of Curiosities is extreamly well fur∣nish'd.

Of seven or eight Pleasure-houses that be∣long to the Duke of Mantua, we saw only Mar∣mirol and la Favorite, which are very lovely Seats. Marmirol especially is a charming place, admira∣bly well furnish'd, adorn'd with Pictures and Antiquities, and embellish'd with several Gar∣dens, Orange-walks, Bird-houses, and Foun∣tains; besides which it enjoys the advantage∣ous Neighbourhood of a Wood, and of a deli∣cious and limpid Brook.

* 1.251The Reverend Mr. St. Longin is the most precious Relic in Mantua, together with some Drops of that miraculous Blood which was found in this City in the time of Leo III,

and* 1.252 afterwards gave occasion to the Institution of the Duke of Mantua's Order. Both these venerable Rarities are kept in St. Andrew's Church, at the entry of which I observ'd ano∣ther extraordinary Piece; 'tis a Bell almost six foot in diameter, with eight openings like Win∣dows, three foot high, and one broad in its cir∣cumference. They told us some Stories con∣cerning the oddness of its Fabric, but without the least appearance of Truth.

'Tis impossible to leave Mantua without re∣membering Virgil, who was born in the Village of Andes near this City.

Mantua Musarum domus, at{que} ad Sidera cantu Evecta Andino. Sil. Ital. l. 8.

Besides the Cathedral, Strangers usually visit the Churches of the Jesuites, of St. Barnabas, St. Maurice, St. Sebastian, St. Ʋrsula, and St. Bar∣bara; the Town-house, Theater, Manufacto∣ries, Mill of the Twelve Apostles, Synagogue, and Shambles.

Two and twenty miles from Mantua we pass'd over a River which separates that Dutchy from the Signiory of Venice; and eighteen miles further we arriv'd the same Evening at Bressa,* 1.253 where we lodg'd. The first Object that struck our Eyes as we enter'd into this City, was the sight of Women in the Streets and Shops, as 'tis usual in France and England; for we had seen none of that Sex since our arrival at Verona. Bressa seems to be pretty well stor'd with Inha∣bitants, and a place of Traffick; People stir

about here after quite another manner than in most Towns of an indifferent largeness, we have hitherto seen in Italy.

The Fortifications of this City are inconside∣rable, but it is defended by a very strong Cita∣del, which stands on a little Hill adjoining to the City, and as it were on the first step of the Alps.

The Palace of Justice is a great and fair Building of a certain hard Stone resembling Marble. On the Pediment of the Front are these words written,* 1.254 Fidelis Brixia Fidei & Ju∣sticiae consecravit. Opposite to this Palace there is a Portico five hundred paces long, and almost quite fill'd with Armourers Shops. The Fire-Arms that are made here are famous thro' all Italy.

The Neighbourhood of the Alps furnishes this City with a great number of fine Springs, and a very commodious Rivulet.

In the Cathedral they preserve with a great deal of Veneration that which they call Constan∣tine's Oriflame, but we could meet with none that were able to give us an exact description of it, because it is never fully shown. The Sexton, who entertain'd us with a Relation of its Vir∣tues, told us only that it is a blew Cross, of un∣known matter, and that it is the same that ap∣pear'd to Constantine with this Motto, In hoc Signo vinces, in the Battel which that Empe∣ror fought against Maxentius; but we must not give Credit to this account of it. The Cross or Figure of a Cross mention'd in that Story, was only a sign that appear'd in the Air, and not a palpable Cross; nor can it be properly

call'd an* 1.255 Oriflame, which signifies a sort of gilt Banner or Standard. Mezeray tells us, That under the second Race of Kings, St. Martin's Cope was born at the Head of the French Armies. But he adds, That the Race of the Capets having a particular Veneration for St. Denis, made use of the Banner call'd Ori¦flame, which belong'd to that Saint's Church. Perhaps then the Oriflame at Bressa may be the † 1.256 Labarum, to which Constantine added the Name of Christ, after his Victory over Maxentius. But to speak more reasonably, give me leave to say, that this Vision seems to be the Product of some Enthusiastical Brain, as well as that shining Image of the Virgin, holding the little Jesus in her Arms, which the Tyburtin Sibyl shew'd to Augustus in the Air.

[illustration]

All the way from Bressa to Bergamo we coast∣ed the Ridge of the Alps on our right hand, at the distance of two or three miles. We pass'd over the River Oglio a second time at Palazzuolo, which is seated exactly in the mid∣dle between the two above-mention'd Cities, being Fifteen Miles distant from each of 'em.

* 1.257Bergamo is a strong Town, and a place of Traffic, seated on a little Hill at the foot of the Alps. Besides its Fortifications, which are well lin'd, and in good repair, it has a Citadel with some Forts and advanc'd Works, which defend the rising Grounds that command it. It has al∣so five Suburbs, which are singly worth a little Town.

* 1.258When Travellers visit the Cathedral, they shew 'em the Tomb of the brave Barth. Coglione Commander of the Venetian Forces against Mi∣lan, and the first General who brought* 1.259 Ca∣nons into the Field. They make 'em also take notice of the inlaid Work of the Benches in the Quire of the same Church. It is of the same nature, and done by the same Hand as that we observ'd in the Church of the Dominicans at Bo∣logna.

The Bergamese Jargon is reckon'd so ridicu∣lous, that all the Italian Buffoons affect to imi∣tate it. But there is another thing that makes the People of this City far more unpleasant and disagreeable; one▪ half of 'em have Wens or lumps on their Throats, which disfigure their Countenances, and in my Opinion are very unseemly Blemishes. These Swellings are in a manner natural to 'em; and, if we may give credit to the common Report, they doubt whe∣ther it be a greater Imperfection to have or to want these Tumors.* 1.260 You know, without doubt, that the Princes of the House of Austria pretend

to cure this Distemper, by giving a Glass of Water to drink; and to untye the Tongues of Stammerers by kissing 'em.

The Territories of Bergamo and Milan are water'd throughout with Rivulets which fall from the Alps, and are upon occasion divided by the Inhabitants into an infinite number of Ca∣nals, which by moistening the Fields prevent the ill consequences of Droughts, and make the Lands extreamly fertile.

The Inundation of the River Adda, which comes from the Lake of Como, oblig'd us to leave our Calashes at a Village call'd Canonica, twelve miles from Bergamo, where we pass'd over the River in a Boat, tho' not without a great deal of difficulty, by reason of its extraordina∣ry rapidity. We embark'd on the other side, on the Canal call'd* 1.261 Navilio, which begins at Trezzo two miles above Canonica, and reaches in a streight line within half a mile of Milan, its whole length amounting to twenty miles. It derives Water from the Adda, the course of which River is in many places very steep, and meets with several Falls before it reaches the level of the flat Country, so that it is lower than the Canal by five and twenty or thirty feet over against Canonica.

'Tis said, that many Engineers had in vain attempted to bring the Waters of the Adda to Milan by way of a Canal, till at last Leonard de Vinci, the most accomplish'd man of his Age, undertook and finish'd the work.

I read t'other day with equal Admiration and Pleasure, the Account Mr. Felibien gives of that great Man, who, I'm apt to think, had a larger

stock of Merit than ever any Man before him could boast of. I cannot forbear making a short digression on this occasion, which I hope will not offend you. That illustrious Florentine was a man of great stature, of a good aspect, and sweet temper: he was prudent, courteous, full of Wit, Courage, and Generosity. He was so prodi∣giously strong, that he was able with one Hand to twist the Clapper of a Bell. He was an ex∣cellent Horseman, danc'd admirably well, was brave and dextrous in managing all sorts of Weapons, and a perfect Master in all genteel Exercises. All the World knows, that he was one of the best Painters of the Age▪ and that he and Michael Angelo made Raphael leave his first way of Drawing. Besides all these excellent En∣dowments, our Leonard was a skilful Architect, a good Sculptor, a great Master in Mechanics, a learned Mathematician, Musician, Anatomist, Philosopher, Poet and Historian. Providence could not in Justice put an end to so rare a Life without a distinguishing Event. At the age of Seventy and Five years he fell sick at Paris, and Francis the First honour'd him with a Visit; he endeavour'd to express his acknow∣ledgment of so great a Favour, by raising him∣self up, and expir'd in the King's Arms, who ad∣vanc'd to hinder him from rising.

The Merit of this great Person was the Sub∣ject of our Discourse in our passage along his lovely Canal, which gave us the prospect of a delicious Country on both sides, and is in ma∣ny places border'd with pleasant Houses, Or∣chards and Gardens, like that which leads from Delft to Leyden, or from Amsterdam to Ʋtrecht.

I did not intend to have written to you be∣fore our departure from Milan; but I could not forbear adding this to the other Letters I am oblig'd to write on this occasion. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Milan, June 7th. 1688.

LETTER XXXI.

SIR,

THO' the City of Milan has been often wasted,* 1.262 and even* 1.263 utterly destroy'd by the terrible Scourges of War and Pestilence, it is so well recover'd at present, that it may be justly reckon'd among the best and finest Cities in Europe. Its Figure is pretty round, its Walls are ten miles in compass, and I'm positively as∣sur'd, that it contains no less than Three hun∣dred thousand Inhabitants. There are not ma∣ny Instances of so great a City built in the middle of the Land, without the conveniency of the Sea, or of a† 1.264 River.

I remember a certain Latin Author informs us, That Mediolanum or Mediolana took its name * 1.265 à Sue dimidiâ lanatâ, from a Sow half cover'd with Wool, that was found in the place where the City was founded.

The first thing that our Guide carried us to see was the famous† 1.266 Cabinet of the late Canon Manfredi Settala, a Person equally noble and rich, and no less dextrous in working with his own Hands than ingenious and skilful in all the various parts of Learning. Such a man could not but make a good choice; neither is there any thing in this Cabinet that deserves not to be consider'd with attention.

Here we observ'd several sorts of very in∣genious Machins, contriv'd for finding out the perpetual Motion, Looking-glasses of all sorts, Dials, Musical Instruments both ancient and modern, some of which were invented by Set∣tala himself; Books, Medals, curious Keys and Locks, Seals, Rings, Pictures, Indian Works, Mummies, Arms, Strange Habits, Lamps, Urns, Idols, with an infinite number of other sorts of Antiquities; Fruits, Stones, Minerals, Animals; a prodigious variety of Shells; Works in Steel, Wood, Amber, and Ivory; a great piece of Cloth made of the Stone Amianthos; and, with∣out engaging further in those tedious Enumera∣tions I promis'd to avoid, all the most rare and curious Productions of Art and Nature, not for∣getting Monsters.

The Dish of yellow Amber, two foot in diameter, is a Piece that deserves to be parti∣cularly mention'd.

There are also several rough Pieces of the same sort of Amber, enclosing Grashoppers, Spiders, Ants, Flies▪ and several other sorts of Insects, which appear distinctly in the middle of 'em. This, in my Opinion, is an evident Argument, tho' there are many different Opi∣nions concerning the Nature of Amber, that it is nothing else but a kind of Gum or Bitumi∣nous Matter, harden'd in the Air or Sea, or per∣haps by some other cause, which I will not exa∣min at present. When an Ant, for example, happens to pass over a raw and clammy piece of this Bitumen, she is entangl'd by it, and the mass of that soft and unctious matter growing harder and bigger by degrees, the Insect is for ever entomb'd in it. And this is exactly the Opinion of Martial.

Dum Phaëtontaeâ formica vagatur in umbrâ, Implicuit tenuem succina Gutta Feram, Sic modò quae fuerat vitâ contempta manente, Funeribus facta est tunc pretiosa suis.

'Tis certain that Ʋnicorns are meer Chimera's, and that the Horns usually ascrib'd to 'em are the Horns or Pricks of a certain Fish found in the Northern Seas. Yet there are three or four of these Horns in this Cabinet, which, they pretend, grew on that imaginary Animal. The Venetians have the same Opinion of the Horns in their Treasury; and many others are possess'd with like Prejudices. Never any man

saw an Ʋnicorn, and yet the whole World is full of its Horns; I'm sure, for my part, I have seen above a hundred. 'Tis to be observ'd, that there are also Fossil Horns exactly like to those that grow on Fishes, tho' of a different mat∣ter.

* 1.267The Remora that stopp'd the Galley of the Unfortunate Anthony, is another fabulous Animal▪ which, for all its Fame, may be plac'd in the rank of Ʋnicorns. Yet this also must encrease the number of the Curiosities of well-furnish'd Cabinets, lest any thing should seem to be wan∣ting. They chuse for this purpose certain small and rarely-observ'd Fishes, about the bigness of Herrings. I have seen at least a dozen of 'em and am sure that of the whole number there were not two of the same kind.

* 1.268The Cathedral Church is a prodigious Work. 'Tis, according to my observation, less than St. Peter's at Rome by almost a sixth part, but in∣finitely superior to it in the laboriousness of its S••ructure. 'Tis cover'd all over, without and within, with Sculptures and Ornaments in Mar∣ble; so that you cannot perceive the Ground, nor lay your Hand on any even or unwrought part. You are not a stranger to the Gothic way of Building; and to form a just Idea of this Edi∣fice, you must imagin a Medley of Roses, Boughs of Trees, Animals, Grotesque Figures, Pyramids, Niches, Statues, and Representations of a Thousand different things, which dazzle the Eye of the Spectator by their Variety and Confusion.

There are only some parts of this Church perfectly finish'd; for 'tis the Interest, and very probably the design of the Chapter, to leave it still imperfect. The Legacies and other Do∣nations that are bestow'd upon 'em for the building of the Church, bring vast Sums into their Coffers, which they apply to other uses. Here I observ'd an Inscription in Gold Letters engrav'd on Marble, which says,* 1.269 That one John Carconus a Milanese left at his death the sum of Two hundred and Thirty thousand Crowns of Gold, to be employ'd in building and adorn∣ing the Front of this Church. They have per∣haps receiv'd a thousand times as much for the same use from other Testators; nevertheless the Front remains still almost naked: but this is a sure Device to drain the Purses of supersti∣tious Persons.

Besides, to speak ingenuously, I believe there was another reason that retarded the building of this Front. If they consider'd the Rules of Uni∣formity, they found that it ought to be made Gothic, as well as the rest of the Church; but a nicer and more refin'd Judgment requir'd it to be more regularly built. I observ'd both sorts of Architecture in that part of it which is already begun; from whence 'tis plain, that the Contrivers of it were very much puzzl'd, and uncertain what methods to follow. But their best course is to be still taking, and not trouble their Heads with other mat∣ters.

Martin the Fifth having* 1.270 bless'd the Al∣tar, before St. Charles Borromeo consecrated the Church, the† 1.271 Statue of that Pope was erected in the Quire. He is represented without a Beard, and with the Face of a young Man, tho' he was Fifty years old when he was advanc'd to the Papal Chair. Behind the Quire the Cata∣logue of the Relicks in this Church is engrav'd on two Tables of Marble, among which I ob∣serv'd a piece of‖ 1.272 Moses's Rod. The‡ 1.273 Nail of the Crucifixion of which they say Constantine made a Bit for a Bridle, is the most respected Relick in Milan. 'Tis kept on the great Altar, surrounded with five Lights which burn night and day. In the year 1576. Cardinal Borromeo, call'd St. Charles, carried it in a solemn procession to stop the Plague; he walk'd bare-foot, with a great Rope about his Neck, tho' he was also cloth'd with the usual Ornaments of a Cardinal.

The* 1.274 Pavement of this Church is finer, and more solid, than that of St. Peter's at Rome,

where the Floor is laid with thin Leaves of Marble, which begin already to cleave, and will in a short time be quite rais'd up, whereas here the pieces are very thick.

There are always Masons hewing Stone, and Women spinning, sewing, and selling Fruit in the middle of the Church: besides, 'tis dark, and many parts of it imperfect. All which Considerations laid together, will easily convince you, that the inside of it can neither charm nor surprize the Eye of a curious Beholder.

We went up to the Steeple, from whence we had a view not only of Milan, but of four or five other Cities in the vast Plain of Lombardy. We discover'd also the Alps, which are united to the Appennine Mountains towards Genoua. The great Bell bears the name of St. Ambrose; it contains seven feet in diameter, and weighs Thirty thousand pounds.

Over against the Church there is a pretty large Place, where, in the Evening, I usually observ'd about thirty Coaches, which mov'd and stopp'd from time to time, that the People within 'em might see those who pass'd along. The place for taking the Air in Coaches is a great unpav'd Street, in the Suburbs, which is sprinkl'd e∣very day with water* 1.275, as the Voorhout is at the Hague.

The Ambrosian Library was so nam'd by Car∣dinal Frederic Borromeo,* 1.276 Archbishop of Milan,

who founded it, and dedicated it to St. Am∣brose. I read in a little Description of this Li∣brary printed at Tortona, That it contains twelve thousand Manuscripts, and seventy two thou∣sand printed Volumes; but we must not depend on that Author's Testimony, for it appears plainly to the Eye, that there are not so many: and besides, the Library-keeper told us, that there were not above Forty thousand in all. This Library is kept open two hours every Morning and Afternoon; there is a Fire in it during the Winter, and there are also Seats and Desks, with all the other Conveniencies that are to be found in the Library of St. Victor at Paris.

They shew'd us a great Book of Mechani∣cal Draughts, which they told us Leonard de Vinci wrote with his own hand. The Writing is extreamly awry, and can hardly be read without a Perspective-glass. There is an In∣scription on the Wall, which says, That a cer∣tain King of England, whose Name is not men∣tion'd, offer'd Three thousand Pistols for this Volume.

Adjoining to this Library there is an Aca∣demy for Painting, where we saw many good Pictures. Among the rest, I remember one of Clement the Tenth, which resembles a Print so exactly, that we were all deceiv'd by it.

The Citadel is a regular Hexagon, well lin'd, furnish'd with store of Cannon, and surrounded with a good Ditch and Counterscarps; but the old Walls should be pull'd down, with all those Towers, Forts, and other antique Works which are contain'd in the Citadel, besides a considera∣ble number of Houses; for, if all this useless

Rubbish were taken away, the place would be infinitely better. After we had walk'd round the Ramparts, we enter'd into a Hall in the Governor's Lodgings, to see a score of Soldiers who were exercising their Postures, and practi∣sing Spanish Sarabands against the Solemnity of Corpus-Christi-day, when they were to dance be∣fore the Procession.

The principal Buildings in Milan, without mentioning the Churches and Convents, are, the Palaces of the Governor and Archbishop; the Houses of the Marquess Homodeo, Count Barth. Arese, and Signior T. Marini; the* 1.277 Se∣minary; the Colleges of the Switzers, of Breva, and of the Jesuits; the Town-house, and the chief Hospital; the great Court of the last-nam'd Structure is a Hundred and twenty paces square, with two rows or stories of Portico's about the inside, both which are supported on every side by Two and forty Pillars of a kind of Marble found in the neighbouring Alps, every Pillar consisting of a single Piece. The Body of the Edifice is of Brick, moulded and fa∣shion'd into several Ornaments of Architecture. The old Hospital is join'd to this, and both to∣gether make but one.

The† 1.278 Lazaret or place appointed for the en∣tertainment of those that are sick of Pestilential Distempers, depends on the great Hospital, and is situated about two or three hundred paces from the City. It consists of four Galleries join'd in a square, each containing Ninety two

Chambers, and surrounded on the inside with a Portico supported by Marble Pillars, every Chamber being twenty foot broad, or some∣what less; 'tis plain, that the length of each Gallery comprehending the thickness of the Walls must amount to about Eighteen hundred Feet. The great Place within is a Meadow wash'd by several Brooks of running Wa∣ter; and in the middle of the square is an Al∣tar under a Dome supported by Columns. The Doors of the Chambers are so contriv'd, that all the sick Persons may see Mass said from their several Beds.

The Church, which at present bears the name of St. Ambrose, is the same into which that ancient Doctor refus'd to admit Theodosius. There are Pictures and Sculptures in it, which are the Productions of the most ignorant Ages. They made us also take notice of a Dragon of Brass, that stands on a Marble Column. Do∣nato Bossi thinks it is a Figure of Aesculapius's Serpent:* 1.279 Morigi, Besozo, and some others, say, That this is a Representation of the Serpent that Moses erected in the Wilderness, and pro∣duce some Passages of Chronicles that seem to favour their Opinion. Others pretend that it was cast out of the Fragmenta of that Serpent: and the People are firmly perswaded that this is the Serpent of the Wilderness in proper Per∣son,* 1.280 and in that belief have recourse to it on certain occasions, as to one of the most effectual Relicks. Bossi and Charles Torre declare, That they have been several times Eye-witnesses of the Adoration paid to this Image.

In the Church of St. Eustorgia they preserve the Tomb that contain'd the Bodies of the Three Kings, before they were remov'd to Colen. They pretend that the Odour of Sanctity which re∣mains in this Sepulchre compleats the Cure of Diseases, tho' it never undertakes any that are difficult. But you must not imagin that they are destitute of Remedies in such cases, for they have as good Madona's and as powerful Relicks at Milan as any are in Italy. At St. Alexander's alone there are a hundred and forty four thou∣sand Martyrs of the Catacombs of St. Se∣bastian.

The other Curiosities of this place are Works in Steel, and in Rock-Crystal, which is found not far off in the Alps; they make Looking-glasses of the largest pieces, which rarely amount to a foot square.

The Proverb says, that He that would do a Kindness to Italy must destroy Milan; which some think alludes to the Trade of Milan, that would be dispers'd thro' the rest of the Country: but others believe this Apophthegm was occasion'd by reason that the most* 1.281 fatal Wars to Italy have always had their Original in this City.

We had the Curiosity to go two miles from Milan to the Marquess of Simonetta's House, to hear an Eccho that repeats the last Syllable above‡ 1.282 forty times. We made the experiment in a cover'd Gallery in one of the wings of this Building, and the Eccho answer'd from the other

Wing. The Sound decreases gradually, like the reboundings of an Ivory Bullet.

In our Journey from Milan to Pavia, which is but fifteen miles distant, we went a little out of the way to see the famous† 1.283 Monastery founded by‖ 1.284 John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. The Body of the Church is of a Gothick Architecture, but the Chapels and Altars are not inferiour to the richest and finest Pieces in the Churches of Naples. The Cloyster is also very fair, and the Parks, Gardens, Rivers, Avenues, and other Ornaments of this House, make it a very charming Solitude. There are at present Fifty eight Monks in it.

* 1.285The poor little City of Pavia has lost its an∣cient lustre. 'Tis impossible to divine by what remains of it at present that it was once the Metropolis of a Kingdom, and the Residence of twenty Monarchs. The Castle is an old neg∣lected Heap, and the Fortifications are in a very mean condition. A Traveller may satisfie his Curiosity by passing thro' the great Street, the rest of the City being almost desolate.

* 1.286As far as we could judge, the University is much decay'd as well as the Town. It consists of Five Colleges, among which that of Borromeo is chiefly remarkable for the beauty of its Buil∣ding. The Scholars walk thro' the City in their Gowns, and those of every College have diffe∣rent Robes.

Over-against the Cathedral, which is an old, low, and dark Structure, and built awry, there is a Figure on Horseback of Brass, which is is thought to be a Statue of Antoni∣nus Pius; 'tis commonly call'd the Regisol,* 1.287 tho' for what reason I know not. I find it had the same Name in the time of Platina, who thinks it was brought from Ravenna, when that City was taken and sack'd by King Luitprand.

It was the same King Luitprand who, accord∣ing to the Tradition, brought the Body of St. Austin from Sardinia to Pavia, and buried i•• in St. Peter's Church, which at present belongs to the Augustin Friars; but the place where the Body lies could never be discover'd, and the magnificent Tomb of Marble in the Chapel, at the side of the Church, is only an honorary Monument erected by the Monks.

In a Bookseller's Shop at Pavia, I found by chance the History of that City written by Bernard Saccus, one of its Inhabitants, who, among other things, gives an account of the Translation of St. Augustine's Body; the Story is thus, as I transcrib'd it out of the Author: In Templo D. Petri à Luitprando edificato, conditum Augustini corpus fuit; & ne facilè resciri posset, fe∣runt Luitprandum tribus locis effossis, structisque sepulchris, alibi deinde nocte, paucis operi adhibitis, jussisse corpus condi, omnibus sepulchris eâdem nocte, occlusis, ut certâ corporis sede ignoratâ, difficilior in aevum fieret occasio, ejus perquirendi rapiendique. Constructum deinde alio seculo Sacellum Divo Augu∣stino fuit, juxta Templum divi Petri, in quo Sacello, Arca marmorea ac celebris, composita est, Augustini, Sepulchrum repraesentans.* 1.288

The same Author says, That the Land about Pavia produces naturally very good Asparagus twice every year; and, that the Country People for the most part eat the Roots raw.

He relates also, That the Po, which at pre∣sent is five or six miles distant from Pavia, did formerly change its course; and that its ancient Channel is still to be seen about Five hundred paces from the City. This gives light to cer∣tain Passages in old Geographers, who place Pavia near that River. Padus, adds that Au∣thor, saepe totus ab alveo prosiliens, alium sibi ex∣templo alveum sine fossoribus eruit. Si ab Apennino aquarum copia irruat, fluctus in adversam ripam tor∣quet; contra verò, si ab Alpium latere, aquarum impetus fiat. Si ex utrâque parte, effertur supra modum.

* 1.289Coming out of Pavia we pass'd the Tesin on a cover'd Bridge. This is a very rapid River, and the greatest of all those that fall into the Po. Its Inundations are dreaded by the People of the Country, because its Waters are fatal to the Fields which they overflow. When these Inundations last eight days, which happens but seldom, the coldness of the Water kills the Herbs, and the Land hardly recovers its fertility for some years after. How different are the Waters of this River from those of the Nile.

Pavia was formerly call'd Ticinum, from the name of the River that washes its Walls. Sac∣cus relates, That its name was chang'd when Odoacer,* 1.290 after he had destroy'd it, granted an Immunity of five years to the Inhabitants, with permission to rebuild their City: they call'd it

Papia quasi piorum Patria, from the Piety of its Citizens; not, as some vainly imagin, because they receiv'd the Christian Religion at that time, for they were Christians long before, but to de∣note the Love, or (as the word is sometimes us'd) Piety, which those Patriots express'd for their Country, who went to Ravenna to beg the King's Mercy and Pardon. Me si audieritis, said one of those Deputies after their return, nomen inveniemus quod nostrae pietatis officia in Patriam restituendam, paucis Syllabis posteritati attestabitur; & Ticini nomen aquis restituetur. Papia piorum Patria, &c.

I shall add only one Observation concerning this City; That two Kings had the Misfortune to be taken Prisoners here: Desiderius by Charle∣main, and Francis the First by Charles the Fifth. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Pavia, June 12. 1688.

LETTER XXXII.

SIR,

FIfteen Miles from Pavia, we din'd at the Town of Voghera,* 1.291 and the same day ar∣riv'd at the little City of Novi,* 1.292 which is seated at the foot of the Apennine, thirty miles from Genoa, and under the Dominion of that Re∣public. The way between Novi and Genoa is very mountainous, and we met with nothing worth our Observation on all this Road.

* 1.293You know the City of Genoa is situated at the end of a Gulph, partly on the brow of a Hill which forms a Crescent round the Gulph,* 1.294 and partly on a little Plain between the foot of the Hill and the Sea-shore. The Streets in the general are extreamly narrow, and the Houses consist of six or seven Stories in the lower part of the Town; but by degrees, as the ascent ri∣ses, the Houses are lower, and built at a greater distance. This situation is certainly very plea∣sant to the Eye, but in other respects very trou∣blesome and inconvenient, especially for Coaches, which are not much us'd here: the Ladies are carry'd in Litters, and the Men of Quality have either Chairs or Calashes, which they guide them∣selves.

The Town is surrounded with a double For∣tification, which covers it behind, and reaches on both sides to the Shore. The nearest and best of these Fortifications properly encompasses the City, and the second encloses all the rising Grounds that command it.

My Eyes have often convinc'd me of the Falshood of what I had formerly heard, but I never observ'd a wider or more remarkable difference between the Accounts I receiv'd from others, and my own Observation, than with respect to this City. 'Tis confidently reported and generally believ'd, that Genoa is built of Marble.* 1.295 They who live at a distance from it scarce ever mention it without adding this Ob∣servation concerning it, which is grown so com∣mon, that 'tis almost turn'd to a Proverb. But, which is still more surprizing, several Persons that have seen it, are so accustom'd to that way of speaking, that they cannot forbear re∣lating the same Story, either because they have seen it without considering it attentively, or because they chuse rather to leave the World in an Error than to disturb so pleasant a Dream. And perhaps some are willing to take advan∣tage of this general Prejudice, which gives 'em so fair an opportunity to embellish that part of the History of their Voyages.

But, after all, I can assure you 'tis absolutely false, that Genoa is built of Marble; Brick and Stone, or both mix'd together, are the ordinary Materials of its Houses, and they are almost all cover'd with Plaster.

'Tis true, there are some Houses in the Strada nu••va that are richly adorn'd with Marble, and even the Fronts of four or five of 'em are al∣most wholly built of it, but these are all the Marble Houses in Genoa; and I leave you to judge whether this be a sufficient Reason to pretend that the whole City is built of Marble, or whether it might not be affirm'd on better grounds, That London is wholly built of Stone, or Paris of Brick.

But tho' Genoa is not wholly built of Marble it may justly boast of some very beautiful Stru∣ctures; for the Houses are extreamly large and fair in the five or six Streets that are of a considerable breadth, and in the magnificent Suburb of S. Pietro d'Arena. And besides, Slate and Glass are as common here, as they are rare in most other parts of Italy.

I have heard so often of the Gardens in the Air, that are to be seen in this City, that I think my self oblig'd to give you some account of 'em. If the Relations of Travellers were exact∣ly true, and things were call'd by their own proper Names, those who never saw Genoa would not form such lofty Ideas of these pre∣tended Gardens in the Air, as if they were Machins of an Opera, or Imitations of the fa∣mous Gardens of Semiramis. There is so lit∣tle even Ground in this City, that, as I inti∣mated before, they are oblig'd to make the Streets narrow, and the Houses very high, from whence you may reasonably conclude, that there is not much spare room for Gardens. To supply that Defect, several Persons adorn the Balconies of their Houses with Flower-pots,

and some perhaps cover 'em with Earth, when the Buildings are all to bear the weight of it; these are the Gardens in the Air that make so great a noise in the World, tho' there are many other things that are not so much as heeded, which in this sence may be said to be in the Air.

The most beautiful Edifices receiv'd no hurt by the French Bombs, which were level'd direct∣ly at the Heart of the City, where the Houses were thickest; and 'tis but too apparent they were not thrown there in vain; for notwith∣standing all the Reparations that have been made since, there are at present above Five hundred ruinous Houses in one part of the City. And most of the private Sufferers in that gene∣ral Calamity had the double misfortune to lose all that they had, by losing their Habitations; so that they were not only incapacitated to re∣build 'em, but even were not able to pay the charge of removing the Rubbish. 'Tis plain then, that they who have a mind to see Genoa the Proud, must not look for it here.

In the Church of Our Lady of the Vineyards they show'd us a Bomb which fell there with∣out doing the least execution, and I believe would gladly have told us, that this was an Effect of its Reverence to so sacred a place, if some less respectful Bombs had not thrown down four or five other Churches, and as many Convents.

During that fatal showre of Fire and Brim∣stone, the Doge, with thirty Persons more, took shelter in the great Hospital call'd the Albergo, which being very high and large, not only

afforded a safe retreat to a great number of the Inhabitants, but preserv'd a considerable part of their Goods, for they brought thither all that could be carried. They are at present working on a Third Mole, which will stretch further into the Sea than the other two, and (they hope) secure 'em against the danger of a second Assault.

The Haven of Genoa is large, and of a con∣venient depth, but it lies open to the Lubeccio or African Wind, which is almost South West, and is the most dangerous Wind that reigns in in this part of the Mediterranean. So that they were forc'd to make a little secure Harbour within the Port for their Galleys, of which at present they have only six; to so small a num∣ber are the once formidable Navies of Genoa now reduc'd.

The Pharos or Watch-Tower is very high, which here, as at Rochel, is call'd the Lanthorn Tower. To see the whole City distinctly, it must be view'd from three several places; from the top of this Tower, from the Sea about the distance of a mile, and from the top of its Hill. These three different Prospects are sufficient to give a compleat Idea of the Town.

The Palace of the Republic, or the Public Palace, call'd Palazzo Reale, is extreamly large. Here the Doge and Dogess lodge, and two or three Senators, with their Families, besides some inferiour Officers of the State. We visited the little Arsenal in this Palace, where we saw a Rostrum of the old Roman Ships, which is made of Iron, and ends in a Boar's Head: there is an Inscription at the side of it, which says, That it

[illustration] portrait of the Doge of Genoa

The Doge of Genoa

Vol. 2. P. 229.

was found in the Harbour of Genoa, by some that were employ'd to cleanse it. They also made us take notice of some Cuirasses, which they told us were worn by certain Genoese La∣dies in a Croisado against the Turks; and we con∣cluded from the Figure of the Breast-pieces that they were made for Women.

The Ladies usually appear in Gowns after the French manner; and the ordinary Women wear little Fardingales.

The Noblemen never wear Swords. They are not ty'd to any particular sort of Habit, but they are usually cloth'd in black, and in Cloaks. They stile themselves Dukes, Mar∣quesses, Counts, &c. whereas the Noble Vene∣tians, as I told you before, assume none of these Titles.

We saw all the Members of the Senate as∣sembl'd in a body, and in their Formalities, at the Procession on Corpus-Christi-Day. The Doge was in a Crimson Gown, with a sort of square Bonnet. Two Battel-axes and a Sword in the Scabbard were carried before him, and a Sena∣tor march'd on each side of him, in black Gowns of the same fashion with his own.

The Doge is stil'd, His Serenity; the Senators,* 1.296 Their Excellencies; and the Noblemen, Most Illu∣strious. 'Tis true, this last Title is not very honourable in Italy, where 'tis usually given to any man that wears a Ribbon in his Cravat, yet the Genoese Noblemen, as well as those of Ve∣nice, compose the Great and Soveraign Coun∣cil, both these States being purely Aristocra∣tical.

The Doge of Genoa has no more Authority than the Doge of Venice; yet the first is crown'd with a Royal Crown of Gold, and a Scepter is put into his Hand, because of the Kingdom of Corsica, which is actually under the Dominion of that Republic.

When the two years of the Doge's Admini∣stration are come to an end, Deputies are sent to the Palace to tell him, that His Serenity's time is expir'd, and that His Excellency may retire to his own House.

To return to our Procession; the Streets were hung with Tapestry, and spread with green Herbs; all the Windows were full of Ladies dress'd to the best advantage, and deck'd with the richest Ornaments they could procure; they had Baskets full of Flowers, which they strew'd on the Procession, according to the diffe∣rent Inclinations of their Hearts, sometimes out of Devotion to* 1.297 the Most Holy, and sometimes out of Civility or Affection to the young Gen∣tlemen of their acquaintance, who follow'd the Procession: all their Peruques were powder'd with 'em, and for every handful of Favors they receiv'd, they made low Reverences to their fair Benefactresses.

The Church of the Annunciata is the finest in Genoa, but notwithstanding all its Beauty and Magnificency, 'tis far inferiour to many that I have already describ'd; and therefore I will not trouble you with a particular account of it, I shall only observe that it was built at the charge of one† 1.298 Citizen of Genoa, which is the most remarkable thing that can be said of it.

I will not lose time in relating the Story of the Crucifix at St. Jerome's, which spoke to St. Bridget; tho' the rare Discourse that pass'd between 'em might perhaps divert you for some Moments.

At St. Mary's of the Castle there is another,* 1.299 which is particularly honour'd by Maids, for the following reason. A Gentleman who had for a long time courted a young Lady with a design to deceive her, resolv'd at last to have recourse to the usual Stratagem of gaining his Mistriss by a Promise of Marriage, which he did, says the Story, in a place of the City where this Crucifix stood at that time: I will not undertake to describe all that pass'd be∣tween 'em on this occasion; but the Gentleman refus'd to fulfill his Promise. The abus'd Lady enter'd an Action against him, but could pro∣duce no Witnesses to prove her Accusation. The Case was just going to be decided against her, when she remember'd that the Promise was made in the presence of a Crucifix, to which she appeal'd, and beg'd the Judge with Cries and Tears to go to receive the Testimo∣ny of her new Witness. Her Request was granted, and some Persons were deputed to in∣terrogate the Crucifix, which answer'd only with a Nod; but considering the manner in which the Questions were propos'd, that Sign could not be otherwise interpreted than as a confirma∣tion of the poor afflicted Lady's Pretensions: and therefore the Court ordain'd, that the Mar∣riage should be solemniz'd the same day. Thus the injur'd Lady obtain'd her desire, and to crown her good Fortune, the Gentleman's

Heart was touch'd, he obey'd the Sentence with Joy, and the happy Pair became a memorable Instance of Conjugal Affection.

* 1.300St. John Baptist and the Emperor are the two Protectors of this Republic. The Image of the former is stamp'd on its Coin, which is the fairest in Italy, and besides, of the richest Alloy.

The Trade of Genoa is very much decay'd; it consists particularly in Velvet, Point, Gloves, dry Confections, Anchoveys, and several sorts of Fruits. There are some private Persons very rich, but the Republic is poor. Neither Corn nor Wine are sold in the Markets, for the Government reserves that Trade for its self: There is not a Pint of Wine sold by the Inn-keepers, but what is brought from the Cellar of the State; and since they gain nothing by the sale of Liquors, they make the most of their other Commodities. The Bakers are also oblig'd to fetch their Corn from the public Granaries.

These are the most material Observations I have made during my short stay in this City. The Canon Ferro has a Cabinet of Curiosities. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Genoa, June 20, 1688.

LETTER XXXIII.

SIR,

IN our Journey from Genoa to Cazal we were oblig'd to return by the way we came, to Novi, where we hir'd a Coach to Turin, and the next day din'd at the little City of Alexan∣dria.

The Art of besieging Towns was hardly known when Frederic Barbarossa's Army lay six months before Alexandria,* 1.301 without being able to take it. The Fortifications of this place are very mean.

That Emperor call'd it Caesarea, but Pope Alexander III. would have it nam'd Alexandria. 'Tis false that ever any Emperors were crown'd in this City with a Crown of Straw: and I be∣lieve 'tis hard to prove the Truth of another Story, which says, that Frederic in derision call'd it Alexandria of Straw. However, it re∣tains that name to this very day.

Cazal is a well fortified City,* 1.302 seated on the right Bank of the Po. The old Castle is not useless, but the new Citadel is a very impor∣tant place. It has six great Royal Bastions, Half-Moons before the Curtains, a broad and

deep Ditch full of Water, and an Arsenal fur∣nish'd with Arms for Ten thousand Men. There were formerly some Irregularities in the Fortifications, but the French have put all things in order. I must not forget to tell you, that they have doubl'd all the Bastions; for the old Bastions were so large, that there was room enough within 'em to make a second Rampart, which without the least confusion forms a new Bastion in the middle of the former. The Town belongs still to the Duke of Mantua, who receives some inconsiderable Duties from it, and the French Garrison keeps it for him.

Leaving Cazal, we pass'd a fourth time over the famous* 1.303 Eridanus, and our Coach for a long time after follow'd the Banks of that Ri∣ver. We pass'd by the Gate of Trin, a little fortified Town, in that part of Montferrat which belongs to the Duke of Savoy. Verrua is a much stronger place, on a rising Ground, on the right side of the Po.

Eight miles from Cazal we enter'd into Pied∣mont, the Land being still level. As we ad∣vanc'd further, we found our selves engag'd among the Mountains, in a large and flat Valley almost entirely surrounded with the highest Alps. Where this Plain is good, no∣thing can be better, but there are some places in it that do not at all merit that Character.

Hail is the Scourge of Piedmont. As we pass'd along we took notice of two or three large spots of Ground, where but two days be∣fore it had made a prodigious havock on the finest Corn-fields in the World. The Straw

was chop'd and driven into the Ground; and even the Walnut-trees, Vines, and other Trees were half broken.

They reckon but Five and forty miles from Cazal to Turin, but the miles in Piedmont and Montferrat are much larger than the common miles of Lombardy.

Turin is situated in a Plain,* 1.304 on the River Doire, Three hundred paces from the Po. 'Tis a very pleasant Town, all its Avenues are chearful and delicious; and that which makes us more sensibly charm'd with the free and agree∣able Humour of the Inhabitants, is our Abhor∣rence and late Experience of that intolerable Sowreness and Unsociableness that reigns over all the rest of Italy, where we convers'd more with Statues than Men. With respect to the manner of living, Turin is not inferiour to the politest Cities in France: the Language of that Kingdom is as commonly spoken here as the Italian; the People are generally well bred and handsom, and there is not a Court in Europe more sprightly and gay than that of the Duke of Savoy.

The old part of Turin cannot boast of much Beauty, but the new half is built after a quite different manner. The Streets are broad, and streight as a Line, the Houses large, high, and almost all uniform. There cannot be a finer Street than that which passes thro' the two open Places, and reaches from the Castle to the new Gate. Both these Places are large, and of a re∣gular Figure; but the new one is encompass'd

with Houses in exact Symmetry, and a large Portico runs all about it.

* 1.305The Duke's Palace makes not so fine an ap∣pearance on the out-side as the Apartments within it are beautiful. The Palace of the Je∣suits, and that of the Prince of Carignan, are but just finish'd, and seem to be very magnificent: I name that of the Jesuits first, because it ex∣cels the other.

Tho' this City was almost doubl'd under the late Duke, 'tis still of a very indifferent large∣ness: the same Prince enclos'd it with a regular and well-lin'd Fortification, The Citadel is very strong and handsom, tho' not yet quite finish'd; 'tis countermin'd throughout, and has the conveniency of a good Well, where Horses go down and come up without meeting, by a sort of double Stairs without Steps, which wind about so often, that the Descent is very easie.

The Rows of Oaks on the Ramparts of the Town make a very pleasant Walk, which has also the advantage of a very fine Prospect, especially towards the Rivers; but the greatest Concourse of People is usually about Valentin, a House of Pleasure on the Banks of the Po, about a mile from Turin. The Duke has se∣ven or eight others, all well furnish'd, and kept in good order.

I must not forget to give you some account of the* 1.306 Chapel that is almost finish'd at the Cathedral, to the honour of the Holy Handker∣chief. 'Tis certainly very magnificent; but, instead of telling you as some have done, that

it excels the Chapel of St. Laurence at Florence, I can assure you 'tis not at all comparable to that noble Structure. If you have not forgot the Description of that Florentin Chapel in one of my former Letters, you may easily make the parallel between that and this of Turin: af∣ter I have told you that they are both of al∣most the same figure, but that the last is less than the former, and will be only embellish'd with black Marble.

The* 1.307 pretended Holy Handker∣chief is the most important and valu'd Relic in Turin, as you may judge by the honour that is shown to it. Tho' this Relic ought to be the only one of its kind in the World, 'tis reproduc'd or mul∣tiply'd in five or six several pla∣ces at the least, to mention on∣ly such as I know. There are, I think, two of 'em at Rome, at St. Peter's and St. John de Lateran, one at Cadoin in Perigort, one at Besancon, one at Compeigne, one at Milan, and another at Aix la Chapelle. I can't imagin how the Controversie between these Competi∣tors can be decided, since they all produce Pa∣pal Bulls to confirm their Titles; but the Handkerchief of Cadoin seems to have the advan∣tage over the rest, as being authoriz'd by four∣teen Bulls, whereas that of Turin can only shew four.

Since we are just going to take leave of Italy, I shall take this occasion to entertain you with some Observations which I either forgot or had not opportunity to insert in my former Letters.

Our short stay in the places thro' which we pass'd would not suffer us to spend much time in making acquaintance with the People of the Country, and consequently we could not be very particularly inform'd of their Customs: neither do I intend to enter on that Subject, but only to communicate some Remarks to you without any other order, than as they shall offer themselves to my Memory.

I said nothing of the Princes or Courts either in Germany or Italy, because I thought it not convenient to describe 'em with all that Sin∣cerity and Freedom which I must necessarily have us'd to acquaint you with their true Cha∣racters. When a Prince is the Subject of a Discourse, 'tis almost impossible to avoid Flat∣tery and Lies, and therefore I chose rather to be silent, than to hazard the being guilty of either. I shall only tell you, that Mr. B. was every where receiv'd with all the Honour and Respect that are due to his Personal Merit and High Birth; and these Civilities were sometimes redoubl'd, by reason of the Acquain∣tance and Friendship between some of those So∣veraigns and his Grandfather the Duke of Or∣mond, and the Knowledge they had of his Fa∣ther the late Earl of Ossory, and several other Persons of that illustrious Family.

The Duke of Modena is of great stature, handsom, and resembles the Queen his Sister considerably, tho' he is of a brown Complexi∣on. He is Master of several Qualifications that are able at once to inspire both Love and Re∣spect. He discours'd with me almost an hour concerning some particular Observations we had

made in our Travels, and especially concerning England.

I could not give you an account of those Academies of the Curious, that are establish'd in almost all the Towns of Italy, because I had not time to enquire particularly about 'em; but if I may give credit to the Information I re∣ceiv'd from several Persons, they are certainly very inconsiderable Societies. The affected oddness of their Titles is very singular, for they are not much unlike to the Names which the Grooms in France give to their manag'd Horses; I shall only mention a dozen of 'em: Thus the Academists of Genoa call themselves(a) 1.308 Drowsie; those of Naples,(b) 1.309 Burning; those of Alexandria(c) 1.310 Immoveable; those of Rome(d) 1.311 Fantastical or Humorous; those of Viterbo(e) 1.312 Obstinate; those of Siena(f) 1.313 Benumb'd or Sottish. At Perusa they stile themselves(g) 1.314 Mad; at Parma(h) 1.315 Name∣less; at Bologna(i) 1.316 Idle; at Milan(k) 1.317 Con∣ceal'd; at Ancona(l) 1.318 Obscure or Confus'd; at Mantua(m) 1.319 Amorous; at Rimini(n) 1.320 Easie or Pliable; and at Macerata(o) 1.321 Chain'd. I perceive I have skip'd from place to place, without observing any order, but that is not material.

We were treated with a great deal of Civi∣lity and Kindness by the Italians, as far as we could judge by outward appearances: but, to deal plainly, their Complaisance is a mixture of Flattery and Design. We found also by expe∣rience, that the People of this Nation are very sober. The Inns in the little Towns, especially on certain Roads, are very ill furnish'd with

Provisions. The first Course, which by way of excellence they call the Antipasto, is a Plate of Gizerns, Ends of Wings, and Birds Feet boil'd with Salt and Pepper, and mix'd with Whites of Eggs; after which course, come two or three small Dishes one after another of different Ragou's. Between Rome and Naples the Travel∣ler is sometimes regal'd with Buffalo's and Crows, and he's a happy man that can meet with such Dainties: the Buffalo's Flesh is black, stinking, and hard; there are none but the most beg∣garly Jews at Rome who eat it, and the Beast must be hunted, otherwise 'tis impossible to chew its Flesh.

They have all the various kinds of Wine in Italy, but the best sorts are least abundant: about Rome there is the Wine of Gensana, Alba∣no, and Castel Gandolfo, in all which places the Soil is the same. The Greek Wine of Naples, and the Lacryma Christi are strong, but the small Asprino bianco, and the Chiarello piccante seem'd more agreeable to our taste, tho' they are much less esteem'd. At Florence and Montefiascone the richest Wines are pleasant, and have no more Fire than what is convenient for ordinary Drink, but there is no great quantity of 'em; the Great Duke's delicate Moscadello grows in a little Vine∣yard, and is consecrated to his own use, or to be sent as Presents, but never dispers'd thro' the Country: there are also some good sorts of Wine near Verona, and in the State of Genoa.

About Loretto the Casks are made short and broad like a Dutch Cheese; but towards Pavia their length amounts to seven times their diame∣ter.

Towards Parma and Placenza,* 1.322 where there are excellent Pastures, they make Cheese of all their Milk. Butter is scarce in Italy, in∣stead of which they use Oyl in all their Ra∣gou's and Fricasies; but tho' they draw it from their own Olive Trees, 'tis oftentimes worse than in those Countries where none of these Trees grow; for the Fruit that will yield the best price and keep longest is always transpor∣ted.

We have not seen the chief Season for Fruit in this Country. At Venice, where we stay'd two months in the Winter, we had white Grapes of Bologna very firm, and of a most delicious taste. At Naples we eat Winter-Melons; and at Genoa we were entertain'd with all sorts of small red Fruits, and I never saw so good and large Cherries as there. The Country about the River of Genoa is peculiarly excellent for Fruit.

It may be truly said of Genoa, that its Hills are without Wood; but all the rest of the Pro∣verb is false, Men without Faith, Ladies without Shame, and a Sea without Fishes. There are both Rogues and Honest men every where, and we found by Experience that there are very good Fishes in the Sea of Genoa. I took plea∣sure two or three times to go in the morning to see the Fishing at Naples, where I observ'd se∣veral sorts of Fishes that I had never seen in other places. The Gulf of Cajeta abounds with Sturgeon, some of which are also found in the Tiber.

In all our Travels thro' Italy we never saw either a Hare or Partridge in the Fields; and I might also add, that we saw as few in the Inns. 'Tis very strange, in my opinion, that these Animals are not more plentiful, since the Coun∣try is not wholly destitute of 'em. My Rea∣sons are these: In the first place, there are large extents of Ground in Italy, which are almost uninhabited, and consequently ought to abound with Game, proportionably to the like places in the New World. And, secondly, it might be reasonably suppos'd that the Game should be more plentiful here than in other places, because the Lords of those Grounds are never wont to reside on 'em, and yet are no less jealous of their Rights than the Gentlemen of other Coun∣tries.

In England and France there are many Persons of Quality who pass their time in the Country; but that is not the Custom in Italy, where all Persons of Note live in the Cities, out of which there are neither Castles nor great Houses to be seen, which belong to private Persons, or at least they are very rare, especially if we com∣pare this Country with France, for I am not so well acquainted with England,

To return to our Game; it must be ac∣knowledg'd, that Quails are not so great Rarities here as Partridges, for when the Spring approa∣ches they come in Flocks from Afric, and cover the whole Country. These poor little Crea∣tures are so tir'd with their long Voyage, that they throw themselves into Ships, and whereso∣ever they can find a place to repose themselves.

They may be caught in heaps without the least trouble, but since they are extreamly lean, those who take 'em usually feed 'em for some time before they eat 'em. I believe 'tis uncertain whether these Birds fly over the Sea, or whether they do not sometimes swim to take breath: 'tis indeed hard to conceive that the Quail which has not a strong Wing, and flies heavily, should be able to continue its flight so long. But, on the other side, I'm inclin'd to believe that the Water would so moisten and drench its Fea∣thers, that it could never spread its Wings again. And, besides its leanness and weariness, the Dangers to which it exposes its self, and its ea∣gerness to find a resting place, are, in my opi∣nion, convincing Arguments that it flies all the way without intermission.

I saw but one Scorpion in Italy, and I could not learn that these Animals are very mischie∣vous in this Country. There are several ways to guard against 'em; but I never saw any of those hanging Beds that are usually talk'd of. The People about Verona make use of Iron Bedsteads, which they place at some distance from the Walls, that those Insects may neither breed in 'em nor be able to come up on the Beds; and the Feet of the Bedsteads are fil'd and polish'd, partly for the same reason. If the Animal its self can be caught, and bruis'd on the part which it stung, 'tis a certain Remedy; and there are also Salts and Oils extracted out of it, which produce the same effect. But af∣ter all, the stinging of Scorpions is not mortal in Italy; and besides, such Instances happen so

very rarely, that they who are desirous to travel into Italy ought not to be discourag'd by 'em.

* 1.323There are two sorts of Animals to whom the Italians give the name of Tarantula; one is a sort of Lizard, whose Biting is reputed mortal, 'tis found especially about Fondi, Cajeta, and Ca∣poa; but this is not that which other Nations call the Tarantula: the true Tarantula is a Spider, and lives in the Fields. 'Tis said, there are many of 'em in Abruzzo and Calabria, and they are also found in some parts of Tuscany. They that are stung by this Creature make a thousand different Gestures in a moment: they weep, dance, vomit, tremble, laugh, grow pale, cry, swoon away, and after few days of torment, expire, if they be not assisted in time: they find some Relief from Sweating and Antidotes, but Music is the great and only Remedy. A learned Gentleman of unquestion'd credit told me at Rome, that he had been twice a Witness both of the Disease and of the Cure: they are both attended with cir∣cumstances that seem very strange,* 1.324 but the Matter of Fact is well attested and unde∣niable. I think I could pro∣duce natural and easie Reasons to explain this Effect of Music, but, without engaging my self in a Dissertation that would carry me too far, I shall content my self with relating some other Instances of the same kind, which may satisfie any ingenious person. Every one knows the infallible efficacy of David's Harp to restore Saul to the use of his Reason.* 1.325 I remember Lewis

Goyon, in his Lessons, has a Story of a Lady of his acquaintance,* 1.326 who liv'd a hundred and six years without ever using any other Remedy than Music, for which purpose she allow'd a Salary to a certain Player on Instruments, whom she call'd her Physician. And I might add, that I was particularly acquainted with a Gen∣tleman very much subject to the Gout, who infallibly receiv'd Ease, and even sometimes was wholly freed from his Pains by a loud noise. He us'd to make all his Servants come into his Chamber, and beat with all their force upon the Table and Floor, and the noise they made, in conjunction with the sound of a Base-Viol, was his soveraign Remedy.

Highway Robbers are no more dangerous in this Country than Scorpions or Tarantula's; for there have not been any Banditi at Rome since the Pontificat of Sixtus V, and I think I told you, that the Marquess del Carpio has extirpated 'em out of Naples. I do not remember that ever any person was put to death in all the places thro' which we travell'd, during the time we stay'd in 'em. There is not a City perhaps in the whole World where Executions are so rare as at Venice; the Hangman has a very poor Trade on't. They who are under the Patro∣nage of a Nobleman, which is a thing very ea∣sily obtain'd, may rob and cut Throats as often as they please, only they must take care never to commit a Villany in a public place, or that may make too great a noise.

At our Entry into most Cities our Pistols were taken from us, but we always found 'em at the other Gate at our departure. This is a consi∣derable Circumstance, for at the end of the Voyage the Charge amounts to as much as the Pistols are worth. 'Tis not lawful to wear Swords either at Genoa or Lucca, but that Privi∣lege is readily granted to Strangers when they desire it. The Bayonet is prohibited in Cities; but in the Country every one may wear what Arms he pleases, and even they who travel on Horseback oftentimes carry Fusees. The Stiletto's of Milan are famous for the genteel Stab, and they do their Work effectually.

Love and Jealousie are the two Furies that shed most Blood in Italy. The Italians are said to be Jealous without any reason, and the least suspi∣cion puts 'em into a Fit of Rage.

Not only at Venice, as I intimated before, but every where else, the Girls are sent to Nun∣neries in their Infancy, and they are usually mar∣ried without seeing their future Husbands; on∣ly the Girls of the lowest rank are suffer'd to remain with their Parents; and 'tis not with∣out much difficulty that they are able to find Yoke-fellows. I am not so well acquainted with the Customs of other places, but at Rome there are several Funds establish'd, either to marry poor Maids, or to confine 'em for ever to a Convent. These Charities are distributed with almost the same Ceremonies that are ob∣serv'd in the Minerva, which I describ'd in one of my former Letters.

I observ'd in the Churches at Rome, that in Lent the Women are shut up in a place under the Pulpit, enclos'd with Rails six foot high.

There are several Trees and Plants in Italy, which grow neither in England nor (for the most part) in France, unless perhaps in the Southern parts of it.* 1.327 The Palm-tree is a Stranger in Italy, and rarely bears Fruit there. In the Gar∣den of Simples at Pisa there is a male and fe∣male Palm-tree planted together, agreeably to the ancient Error of those who thought such a Marriage was necessary to make those Trees fruitful. But this is a meer Fable; for I ob∣serv'd a Palm tree alone full of Dates, at the Villa Mellena, on Monte-Mario.

We went to the Pope's Chapel on Palm Sunday, where all the Cardinals were assembl'd, and he who officiated for the Pope presented a Palm-branch to every one of the rest; these Bran∣ches were almost five foot long, and the Leaves were woven together into Knots of several Fi∣gures. We saw that which was sent to the Pope: all the Prelates and other Ecclesiasticks had also Branches, which were either greater or smaller, according to the Dignity of those who bore 'em. The Laicks use only Olive-branches.

I have already told you,* 1.328 that we saw seve∣ral Trees growing in this Country which I had not observ'd so commonly any where else; I shall now proceed to name some of 'em besides the Palm-tree, such as the great Maple, the Cork

tree, the Jujub tree, Carob tree, Olive-tree, Myrtle, Pomegranate tree, the Caper shrub, Scarlet-Oak, Cypress, Sena, Lentisk or Mastic-tree, the great Indian Fig-tree, the Oak that bears Galls, the Shrubs that bear Cotton and Fistic-nuts, and several sorts of Orange and Citron-trees. The Ways are al∣most every where border'd with White Mulberry-trees, for the nourishment of Silk-worms.

Those who love Simples will find enough to gratifie their Curiosity on the Appennin Moun∣tains between Loretto and Rome, and every where in the Alps; but they must have more leisure than we had.

I gather'd some Sponges on the Sea-side to∣wards Terracina, of which two were in a man∣ner rooted on very hard Flints, the rest lay loose on the Shore.

These Sponges put me in mind of Pumice-Stones; and I must not forget to tell you, that I spent some time to no purpose in searching for these Stones on Mount Vesuvius, tho' 'tis gene∣rally said to be full of 'em. This must certain∣ly be a Mistake: there are indeed many po∣rous and calcin'd Stones on that Mountain, which resemble Pumice-stones, but after I had consider'd 'em attentively, I soon perceiv'd the difference. I have not any certain knowledge of the formation of Pumice-stones, or of the pla∣ces where they are found, but I believe they are natural Productions.

The Mountains of Italy, and particularly the Appennin Hills, are well stor'd with Metals, Mine∣ral Waters, Crystal, Alabaster, a kind of Agat, and several sorts of Marble, but the Marble of the Archipelago has brighter colours. The White

Marble of Carrara is one of the finest sorts in Italy, and a great deal of it is transported to France.

The Winter has been very sharp and long, almost all the Oranges and Citrons were frozen, and the Ground under the Trees was cover'd with 'em in the above-mention'd places, where those Fruits are most common.

I observ'd that they take a great deal of care at Rome to preserve themselves from the Incon∣veniences occasion'd by the Heats, which are usually very troublesome in that place. The great Lords have low Apartments, where the Sun ne∣ver appears, which are pav'd with Marble, and furnish'd with Fountains and Water-spouts; and besides, the Doors and Windows are so contriv'd, that they are never without a cool Brize. The Beds are encompass'd at some di∣stance with a Circlet of Gawze or Tiffany, which is join'd close to the Boards of the Floor and Ceiling above and below, and hinders 'em from being tormented with Gnats.

'Tis also the Custom to sleep two hours im∣mediately after Dinner, but they never lye down; for they have a sort of folding Chairs which are usually garnish'd with Leather, and have Backs that rise and fall with a Spring.

The use of Ʋmbrello's is common every where.

The Serain or Evening Dew in Campagna di Roma is esteem'd mortal, during three or four months in the Summer, and great care is taken to avoid it. Travellers double their pace to ar∣rive at Rome in time, or stay at the distance of eighteen or twenty miles from it.

I found the following Verses over the Gate of a House at Rome; they contain the Rules that ought to be observ'd for the preservation of Health in that City.

Enecat insolitos residentes pessimus Aer Romanus; solitos non bene gratus habet. Sospes ut hic vivas, lux septima det* 1.329 Medicinam; Absit odor foedus; sit modicus{que} labor. Pelle Famem & Frigus; fructus femur{que} relinque; Nec placeat gelido fonte levare sitim.

That is, The Roman Air is fatal to Strangers, and troublesome even to the Natives. If you would live securely here, observe the following Rules; Take Physic every seventh day, avoid stinking Smells, use moderate Exercise, Fence your self against Cold and Heat, abstain from Fruit and Women, and quench not your Thirst with cold Water.

You may observe by the bye, that the Author chose rather to run the hazard of a false quan∣tity, than to lose the Jingle of his four F's. He might have said Venerem instead of Femur, the first Syllable of which is short, Et corpus quaerens femorum, &c. Mart.

I have not given you an account of the Antiquity of several Cities. I confess, Enquiries of that nature are very curious, but besides that they require a great deal of time and labour, and have been prosecuted already by very able Pens: I find that these Controversies are usually meer Questions concerning Names of Places, for in many of these Cities there are not the least Re∣mainders or visible Marks of their ancient Foun∣dations; and they have been subject to the same

Alterations which the Vessel of the Argonauts underwent of old. To conclude, the sight of the Places might perhaps raise a Traveller's Curiosity; but that wears off by degrees when they are only the Objects of his Imagination.

I must tell you, now I think on't, that in all Italy we observ'd but one Wind-mill, or rather the Ruins of one at Leghorn.

They use no Tin-Vessels in this Country, because of the scarcity of that Metal. All their Vessels are made of Earth leaded, or of _____ _____ . We have seen _____ _____ made in se∣veral places, but there is none that resembles Porcelain so exactly as that of Delft.

Whereas we place the begin∣ning of the natural Day imme∣diately after Midnight,* 1.330 the Ita∣lians make it begin after Sunset∣ting, and their Clocks strike al∣ways Four and twenty hours from one Sunsetting to another: you may easily perceive that ac∣cording to this computation, the Hour of Noon varies daily; for when the Sun sets at Four a-clock according to our calculation, they reckon One when we count Five, and consequently the next day 'tis Noon at Twenty hours. And in like manner, when the Sun sets at Eight on our Dials, 'tis One a-clock with them, when we reckon Nine, and 'tis just Noon at sixteen hours. Nevertheless, with respect to the artificial Day between Sunrising and Sunsetting, they use the words Yesterday and To morrow, as we do.

I cannot forbear acquainting you that we left Rome without having seen the Pope; there were doubtless some Reasons that would not permit him to appear in public, and there were others that hinder'd us from paying him a Visit.

I shall conclude this Letter with telling you, that we bought some modern Medals at Rome, from the famous Hameranus, who is reputed to excel in that sort of Workmanship. Of all the Medals we saw of Queen Christina, this, in my opinion, is one of the most Heroical and most worthy of that great Princess: Her Do∣minions are on the Reverse with the whole He∣misphere, and this Motto, Ne mi bisogna, ne mi basta; I want nothing, and yet I have not enough. Alexander the Great could use the last part of this Motto, but instead of reigning over himself, his Ambition made him desire more Worlds.

I shall only add an Inscription, which one of my Friends transcrib'd just now from the Pede∣stal of a Statue of Justice in the Convent of the Jesuits.

Quae Dea? Sacra Themis. Quae Patria? Regna Tonantis. Qualis Origo? Fuit Sanctus uterque Parens. Cur Frontem Facies aperit formosa severam? Nescio corrumpi, non amo Blanditias. Aurium aperta tibi cur altera, & altera clausa est? Una patet justis, altera surda malis. Cur Gladium tua Dextra gerit? cur laeva Bilancem? Ponderat haec causas, percutit illa Reos. Cur sola incedis? Quia copia rara Bonorum: Haec referunt paucos saecula Fabricios. Paupere cur cultu? Semper Justissimus esse Qui cupit, hic magnas vix cumulabit opes.

What Goddess art thou? I am Sacred Justice. What happy Region boasts thy presence? Heaven. Whose Offspring art thou? I'm of holy Race. What sullen Glooms hang o'er thy lovely Face? I cannot fawn nor bribe, nor will be brib'd. Why hast thou one Ear shut, and t'other open? This to the Good, that to th' Unjust I turn. What mean thy brandish'd Sword and well-pois'd Bal∣lance? That strikes the Guilty, this gives Righteous Judgment. Why stand'st thou thus alone?All Men avoid me. Why in so Poor a Garb? Few Just are Rich.

I am, SIR, Your &c.

Turin, June 29. 1688.

LETTER XXXIV.

SIR,

* 1.331WE lay at Veillana the first night after our departure from Turin, next morning we pass'd by the Gate of Susa,* 1.332 a little City, seated among the Mountains, by which 'tis commanded almost on every side, and din'd at Novalesa,* 1.333 at the foot of Mount Cenis.

This is the highest Mountain of the Alps, over which there is a Passage; but you must not conclude from thence that it is another Caucasus or Tenerif; neither must you fancy it to be a single Hill, or that the Way lies over the top of it. For when a Traveller comes to the highest part of the Passage, he finds him∣self in a Plain, or a new Valley, with respect to the lofty Mountains that surround it.

At Novalesa we took Mules to ascend the Hill. The Way is pretty broad, and free from Precipices, but uneven and full of Stones. On the highest accessible part of it there is a Cross that divides Piedmont from Savoy, and conse∣quently is one of the Boundaries of Italy. In the middle of the Plain there is a Lake of so great a depth, that, if we may believe the com∣mon Report, its Bottom could never be reach'd by sounding; it is a large mile in compass, and

sends forth a great Brook, which falls into the little Doire near Susa.

The Snow was almost all melted on the Hill; 'tis true, the highest tops of the Mountain on both sides were cover'd with it, but there were only some Heaps left here and there in the pas∣sage. The tumbling of the Snow makes the passage dangerous in some places, and in some Seasons of the Year, otherwise there is no dan∣ger at all in it.

The side of the Hill towards Savoy is much rougher than the other, and Travellers are usually carried this part of the way by Men, tho' they might pass it on Horseback, as Char∣lemain's Army did heretofore. They made us sit down in ordinary Chairs, to which they had fasten'd Arms like the Shafts of a Litter. We were each of us attended by four Men, two who bore the Chair, and two more to relieve their Fellows.

At the foot of the Hill we pass'd the little River Arche, on a Bridge of Wood, to the Village of Lasneburg.

I have almost nothing to relate concerning Savoy. The Country is generally mountainous, and we found hardly any thing remarkable in that part of it thro' which we pass'd.

Chambery, the Metropolis of the Dutchy,* 1.334 formerly the Residence of the Dukes, and now the Seat of a Parliament, is a very small and unfortified City, seated at the foot of the Mountains near the Confluence of the Lessa and Orbana, neither of which is navigable. We were

told, that its Inhabitants are very civil and the Ladies handsom.

* 1.335St. John de Maurienne is situated in a pleasant Valley of the same name. We pass'd by with∣in two hundred paces of the City, without en∣tring into it, being credibly inform'd that it was not worth the while to go so far out of our way to see it.

* 1.336Neither did we stop at Montmelian, which is a little City on the right Bank of the Isera, defen∣ded by a Citadel indifferently strong.

* 1.337Aix is much frequented by reason of its Baths. I know not whether you have observ'd that the French Name of those Towns that are call'd Aix is deriv'd sometimes from Aqua, and some∣times from Augusta: Aqua Sextiae, Aix in Pro∣vence; Aquisgranum, Aix la Chapelle; Augusta Alorum, Ais or Auchs in Annagnac.

About Annecy we found the whole Country in a general Consternation for fear of the Vau∣dois; there was a Report, That above Two thousand of these poor Exiles were enter'd into Savoy, towards Evian, and had already burnt five or six Villages: but there was not the least Ground for such an Alarm.

The Dutchy of Savoy is separated from the Territory of Geneva by the River Arve, over which there is a Bridge of Wood that leads al∣most to the Gates of Geneva. The Arve is a great Torrent, which falls from the Mountains, and always brings some Gold-dust along with it,

but it happens very rarely that a Man is able to refine so much of it in a day, as he might earn at some other Work; and therefore this Gold is almost wholly neglected.

I will not undertake to give you an account of the Antiquity, Government,* 1.338 or History of Geneva, of which we have had so many De∣scriptions. I shall content my self with giving you a general Idea of this City, to which (since I had occasion formerly to be pretty well ac∣quainted with it) I shall add some particular Observations.

The Rhone, at its coming out of the Lake, forms a little Island. On the right Bank of the River, or rather toward its right Channel, the Land is low and even, but on the other side there is a Hillock that rises insensibly. The principal part of the City is seated on this Hil∣lock, the rest of it is in the Island, and beyond the Rhone; and the whole is encompass'd with a Fortification.

The Republic of Geneva is in League with the Switzers,* 1.339 particularly with the Cantons of Zurich and Bern, and in this their great Strength consists. Their Ramparts may preserve 'em from a sudden Surprisal, and might perhaps protect 'em against all the Force of Savoy. But tho' these Fortifications are not contemptible, they could not long resist a more potent Ene∣my, if the State had nothing else to depend on.

They have good store of Cannon, and a well-furnish'd Arsenal, where they preserve the famous Ladders that were made use of by the Savoyards* 1.340 in the Scalado of which you have

doubtless read an account. In the same place they keep the Petard that was design'd to burst open the new Gate. These are two lasting Monuments of their Deliverance, in memory of which they still continue to solemnize a* 1.341 Fe∣stival, with Thanksgiving, and extraordinary Sermons suitable to the occasion, and also with little Feasts, or rather with joining the Meals of several Families, according to the various Tyes of Relation and Friendship, by which they are united: They never part without sing∣ing a Song that was made about the time of that Action, of which it comprehends the prin∣cipal Circumstances, and is now become an essen∣tial part of the public rejoicing.

The Republic keeps some Gallies on its Lake, and there are also others belonging to the Duke of Savoy and the Switzers. I say its Lake, for the Lake was given to the City by its Masters when it was a Roman Colony, and the common way of Expression at present seems to confirm that Donation.

The Duke of Savoy keeps a† 1.342 Fort on the Bank of the Lake, at the distance of a large league from Geneva, contrary to the Treaty of St. Julian, in which, among several other Arti∣cles, it was concluded and ratified, That the Duke of Savoy should neither draw any Forces together, nor make Fortifications, nor keep a Garrison within four leagues of Geneva.

The Opinion of some ancient Authors, that the Rhone passes thro' the Lake without min∣gling with its Water, is not only fabulous, but absurd and impossible, considering the length

and crooked figure of the Lake. C. Frey* 1.343 main∣tains the same Error in his Admiranda Galliarum Rhodanus in Lacum Lemanum influit, & impermix∣tis aquis & aquarum colore, ex eo effluit. But my Eyes have often convinc'd me of the Falshood of this Assertion.

The Water of this Lake is extreamly pure and limpid; it affords several kinds of excellent Fishes, but its Trouts are most famous:* 1.344 I have seen several of 'em that weigh'd Fifty pounds each,and I know there have been some found bigger than these by a third part. These Fishes are seldom found so big in other places; but this is not a thing without Example, as some imagin. In one of the Halls of the Arsenal at Munick I saw a Figure of a Trout that was taken out of a little Lake in that Country, and weigh'd Seventy three pounds.

Perhaps an account of the usual way of catching Trouts at Geneva will not be unplea∣sant to you. You must know, that at a certain time of the year that Fish descends from the Lake to the Rhone, and at other times returns back to the Lake: now, to take advantage of these Comings and Goings, which constantly happen at the usual times, they have planted Piles cross the River, where it comes out of the Lake, at such a distance, that the great Fishes, whether ascending or descending, cannot pass thro' 'em, unless at certain open places which are

the Mouths of great Weels of Wire, where they remain till they are taken out. This Fishery is let out to Farmers by the State, and makes a part of its Revenue. The Piles are thus dispos'd:

[illustration]

They kill great store of Fowls on the Lake in the Winter. It was frozen in the year 1572. and sometimes it rages like a little Sea.

Geneva is neither large nor very fine; yet it may be justly call'd a very lovely Town. 'Tis impossible for a Stranger that has staid some time in it to leave it without reluctancy. It has the advantage of pleasant Walks; and the Conversation of the Inhabitants is very familiar and easie. The common People are clownish, but honest; and the Persons of note are ex∣treamly kind, civil and ingenious.

Their Academy is furnish'd with able Profes∣sors, and they have also several learned Mini∣sters. I know not whether you have heard that Mr. Chouët is advanc'd from his Profession of Philosophy to the Office of a Counsellor; the public Advantage makes amends for the loss of others by his removal. Mr. Mestrézat is so old and infirm, that the Theological Auditory is in a manner already depriv'd of that excellent Person; but Mr. Tronchin is still one of its great Luminaries; and Mr. Picctet supplies with a great deal of Success the place of his Uncle the famous Mr. Tu••retin.

I cannot forbear finding fault with the Peo∣ple of Geneva, for allowing their Ministers in∣considerable Pensions, and yet making 'em work too hard. There are in each Church two Mi∣nisters call'd Semainiers, who both preach six or seven times following, from week to week, re∣lieving one another. Suppose a Preacher to be one of the ablest and most diligent men in the World, yet it must be acknowledg'd, that Leisure is always a great Help for making a good Sermon. However, these Ministers preach in a very edifying manner. Mr. du Four, and Mr.* 1.345 Calendrin, the two indefatigable Ministers of the† 1.346 principal Church, have long undergone the toil of so rigorous a Task, and continue still to perform the Duties or their Office with a general Approbation.

The late Revolution in France has lessen'd the number of Students of Divinity; but to make amends, since all those Exercises are taught here that young Gentlemen are wont to learn, there are many Protestants in Germany and else∣where, who, for the sake of Religion, chuse ra∣ther to go to Geneva than France.

The poor Vaudois, who were brought hither in a manner half dead, were receiv'd by the In∣habitants with all imaginable marks of Compas∣sion and Charity; and the French Refugiés were also very kindly treated by 'em.

'Tis very remarkable, that before the Refor∣mation the Citizens of Geneva, as if they had foreseen the Day of Grace that was reserv'd for 'em, accompanied their Arms with this Devise, Post tenebras spero lucem;* 1.347 I expect or hope for Light after Darkness. But after the pure Light of the

Gospel shone upon 'em with unclouded lustre, they made some alteration in their Motto, in∣stead of Post tenebras spero lucem substituting Post tenebras Lux, Light succeeded Darkness.

Tho' the Purity of their Manners is not perhaps perfectly agreeable to that of their Doctrin, yet if we compare Geneva, not to some abominable Towns in Italy, but to many others that are not reputed worse than the rest of the World,* 1.348 this City will appear to be the Seat of Sobriety and Moderation. There are vicious Persons here as well as in other places; but Debauchery is not upon the Throne. The Pastors and Consistories labour earnestly to sup∣press it, and the Magistrates assist their pious Endeavours, by publishing Laws against Luxu∣ry in Clothes, and severe Orders against Licen∣tiousness. Formerly they punish'd Adultery with Hanging and Drowning, as they still do in some parts of Switzerland.

There are several rare Books and Manuscripts in the public Library, and among others, a very old Manuscript Bible of St. Jerom's Translation.

In St. Peter's Church they show the Tomb of Henry II, Duke of Rohan. I observ'd also the Sepulchre of the Great d'Aubigne, Grandfather of the Marchioness of Maintenon, in the Cloister at the side of the Church. Calvin was buried in the Church-yard of Plainpalais, without either Tomb or Epitaph.

I must not forget to tell you, that there is a Church for Germans, and another for Italians in this City; and there was also an English Church formerly. The most considerable Italian Families I know, besides those mention'd in my Letter

from Lucca, are those call'd Gallatin, Sartoris, Pue∣rari, Leger, Minutoli, Stoppa, Diodati, Offredi, Cerduini, and* 1.349 I think there are eight or ten more.

The† 1.350 Savoyard Language is commonly spo∣ken here, but all that are rais'd above the Dregs of the People speak also French. 'Tis true, their Dialect is none of the purest, but 'tis at the least as good as any that are us'd in most Provinces of France.

About four small leagues from Geneva, be∣tween the Fort of Sluys and Mount Credo, the Rhone tumbles down a Precipice among the Rocks, and disappears entirely for some space: and therefore they who intend to go from Geneva to Lyons by Water, are forc'd to embark at Seissel, below the Fall and Rising again of the River. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Geneva, July 12, 1688.

LETTER XXXV.

SIR,

THERE cannot be a more pleasant way than the Road between Geneva and Lau∣sanne; for, the whole way seems to be one con∣tinued Hillock, very populous, and well till'd. We rarely lost sight of the Lake; and some∣times on the other side we saw Piles of lofty and forked Mountains glittering with Snow.

The first night after our departure from Ge∣neva we lay at the little Town of Morges,* 1.351 on the Bank of the Lake; from thence we disco∣ver'd the Smoke of a Fire that did a great deal of mischief at Vevay, towards the end of the Lake, as we were inform'd next morning.

* 1.352The situation of Lausanns is extreamly rough and uneven. We stop'd not there, nor in any of the little Towns we met with afterwards, there being nothing in 'em worth observa∣tion.

* 1.353On the Bank of the Lake Morat we took notice of a kind of Chapel, which is quite fill'd with the Bones of those Burgundians that were defeated in that place,* 1.354 to the number of

Eighteen Thousand, by the joint Forces of Lorrain and Switzerland.

Bern is not a large City,* 1.355 tho' 'tis the Metro∣polis of the most potent Canton in Switzerland;* 1.356 it is almost wholly built of hewn Stone, but the Buildings are more solid than beautiful; the Streets are clean, parted by a Rivulet that runs in the middle, on each side of which there are cover'd Walks under Portico's, but they are too narrow. This City was built in the year* 1.357 1175, by Berthold IV, Duke of Zeringhen; and the common Opinion is, that it had its name from a Bear that was taken there, when its Foundations were laid, the word Bern signi∣fying a Bear in the German Language, for which reason also it bears that Animal in its Coat of Arms; and there are Bears kept and fed here, as those of Geneva breed Eagles.

In this City we only visited the Arsenal and the great Church, the first of which is very well furnish'd, and in good condition. In one of the Halls there is a Statue of that† 1.358 Citizen of Switz, who with an Arrow shot down an Apple that was plac'd on the Head of his own Child, fifty paces from him; and they are both re∣presented in that posture. You know that cruel and extravagant Humour of the Gover∣nor Grisler, join'd to several other Grievan∣ces of the same nature,‖ 1.359 gave birth to the Swiss Republic. Childrey relates, among other English Prodigies, That one Robert Bone of Cornwal shot a little Bird on the Back of a Cow: but this last Archer did not run so great a hazard as the other.

The following Inscription was lately plac'd over the Gate of the House appointed for Ma∣nufactories:

* 1.360 Tempore quo crassa Clericorum Ignorantia, cum gratia & Privilegio Regis, in verum Dei cultum fu∣reret; atque DRACONUM operâ eos quos Huguenotes vocant, ferro, flammâ, & omnis gene∣ris cruce, è Regno pelleret: Supremus Magistratus è ruderibus Coenobii olim Praedicatorum has Aedes ex∣truxit, ut Pietatem simul & Artem Galliâ exulantes, hospitalibus tectis exciperet. Faxit Deus T. O. M. ut Charitatis hoc opificium, sit incremento Patriae. When the blind Ignorance of the Cler∣gy, supported by the King's Favor and Authority, rag'd against the true Wor∣shippers of GOD; and by a Mission of Dragoons with fire and Sword, and all manner of Torments, drove those whom they call Huguenots out of the Kingdom: This House was erected by order of the Supreme Magistracy, out of the Ruins of an old Monastery of Praedicant Fryars; that Religion and Art, banish'd together out of France. might here find a Hospitable Entertainment. May it please the most Great and Good GOD, that this Work of Charity may turn to the Advantage of our Country.

In the Church that belong'd to the Domi∣nicans they preserve some Monuments of that memorable piece of Roguery acted by the Jaco∣bin Fryars, of which you may have read an account

in Lavater's Treatise of Specters. Henry Stephen relates it at length; and Nicholas Manuel, who translated it into the German Tongue, says, That it has been publish'd in all Languages. The Story, in short, is thus: After several violent Debates between the Jacobins and Cordeliers con∣cerning the Conception of the Virgin, whom these last maintain'd to be exempted from Ori∣ginal Sin;* 1.361 four Jacobins of Bern, at the ear∣nest solicitation of several others of the same Order, undertook to prove their Assertion by a Miracle; to carry on which design, they re∣solv'd to counterfeit Apparitions, and under borrow'd shapes to speak in the night to a sim∣ple† 1.362 Novice; and after many subtile Contri∣vances, they proceeded to make the Virgin her self tell him, that she was conceiv'd in Sin, hoping to perswade the People by the noise of these Apparitions. The Plot succeeded for some time according to their desire, the Novice was deceiv'd, he related his Visions, the People repair'd to him as to a Saint or Prophet, and the Opinion of the Virgin's immaculate Con∣ception began to be publickly discredited: But the Monks push'd the matter too far, Jetzer at last perceiv'd the Cheat, and they finding themselves discover'd, at the first endeavour'd to gain him by Promises and Prayers, but after∣wards proceeded to Threatnings, and attempted several times to poyson him; which he obser∣ving, made his escape out of the Convent, and declar'd the whole matter to the Magistrate, who ask'd and obtain'd‖ 1.363 extraordinary Judges of the Pope to decide so intricate a Case. The four Monks, whom the management of their

Intrigue had engag'd in a complication of the most enormous Crimes, were put to the Tor∣ture, and confess'd all the Villany; after which they were deliver'd over to the Secular Power, degraded and* 1.364 burnt in the public place. The Novice also underwent the Torture, but was at last acquitted.

* 1.365Soloturn is seated in a fertile Valley on the Ri∣ver Aar, which passes also by Bern; it‡ 1.366 boasts much of its Antiquity, and in that respect as∣sumes the Title of the Sister of Triers. Its Latin Name is written several ways by modern Au∣thors, but in the Itinerary of Antonin 'tis call'd Solothurum, from a Tower, as some think, that was erected here in honour to the Sun. 'Tis encompass'd with regular Fortifications, which are lin'd with great pieces of a sort of white Marble. The French Ambassador always re∣sides here, and 'tis the Opinion of the People, that he fortified the Town.

The People of Guastalla in the Dutchy of Milan are of the same opinion concerning their† 1.367 Fortifications, on which Five hundred Men are constantly at work. 'Tis impossible to per∣swade 'em that the Fund of that Expence is in their Duke's Coffers: they acknowledge indeed that he might defray the Charge himself, but they have their own Reasons to believe the con∣trary.

Basil is the largest, fairest,* 1.368 and richest City in Switzerland, tho' 'tis surrounded only with a Wall defended by some Towers; and 'tis also famous for its University. The Rhine is already very broad and rapid at this place; it runs thro' the City, dividing it into two parts, which are join'd by a lovely Stone Bridge. That part of it next Germany is much less than the other, which is seated on a rising Ground.

The Bishop that takes his Title from this City has his Residence at Poirentru, as the titular Bishop of Geneva resides at Annecy; but neither of those Prelates have any Power or Jurisdiction over these Cities.

There are several considerable Libraries in this City, with some* 1.369 Cabinets of Curiosities. The Body of the Senators assembl'd in Council with their venerable Beards and Accoutrements, is look'd upon as one of the most remarkable Rarities in this City, by those who are not accu∣stom'd to such Sights.

Those who love Painting usually go to see the fine Pictures at the Town house, and espe∣cially the Dance of Death, by the famous Holben, who was born in this City, and learn'd his Art without the help of an Instructor: and 'tis observ'd, that there is a certain peculiar turn in his Works. He was call'd to England by Henry VIII, and 'tis said he embrac'd that occa∣sion with Joy, to get rid of his peevish Impor∣tance at home. His Dance is to be seen in a public place, on the Wall of the French Church-yard; it represents a Train of all sorts of Per∣sons, holding one another by the Hand, and carried to the Grave by Death, who leads the Dance: 'tis a Medley of Persons of both Sexes, and all Ages and Conditions.

'Tis a general Custom over all Switzerland, and even in the little Towns, to send a Present of Wine to Travellers of great Quality. They who bring it have a set form of Speech which serves indifferently for all sorts of Persons, only they must take care to insert the word Excel∣lency and other Titles of Honour in their pro∣per places, according to the Dignity of their Guest, which is sometimes as difficult a Task for 'em to perform, as for the Person to whom their Complement is address'd to forbear laugh∣ing at their fine Harangue. But, after all, they expect to be answer'd in Money.

* 1.370An easie Descent leads from Basil to Hun∣ninghen, along the left Bank of the Rhine. The Cavalier erected in this place, on the Bastion that looks towards Basil, with the Battery of great Guns level'd against that City, are suffi∣cient

Indications that 'tis not far from the Vil∣lage of Hunninghen to the City of Basil.

I will not undertake a particular description of the Fortifications of Hunninghen, but content my self with telling you in the general, that no Cost was spar'd to make 'em very good: the Rhine fills the Ditches, and forms a little Island over against the place, so that they were oblig'd to build a double Bridge over the two Arms of the River; and these Bridges are admirably well fortified, both in the Island and on the side next Germany.

From Hunninghen we came to Friburg,* 1.371 ano∣ther important place four leagues from the Rhine; 'tis seated in a Plain at the Foot of the Hills, and tho' it encloses a large extent of Ground, the Fortifications that surround it are very good and regular. The Mareschal de Crequi took this place, after a Siege of nine days, in the year 1677. It has oftentimes chang'd its Lords, but never chang'd its condition so much as since the last Conquest. Its present Masters have in a manner fill'd the neighbouring Hill with heaps of Forts and Trenches pil'd upon each other, and by so doing have not only possess'd themselves of the high Grounds that command the City, but cover'd it with the Cannon of Forts.

They make several little Knacks in this City of a sort of Agat found in the Neighbourhood.

'Tis four hours Journey from Friburg to Bri∣sack.* 1.372 I am not at all surpriz'd that this City was formerly call'd the Pillow of the Empire, for both

its Figure and Strength deserve that Title. Imagin you see a Hillock, which seems to have been artificially rais'd of Beds of Earth laid on purpose, in the middle of a Country smooth as Ice. On one end of this little Hill or Pillow stands the Town; the Citadel is on the other; and both are encompass'd with an excellent For∣tification at the Foot of the Hillock. There is a Stone Bridge over the Rhine, extreamly well fortified on the side next France.

* 1.373Schelestat is in the lower Alsatia, four leagues from Brisack, and three from the Rhine. It is situated in a flat Country, not commanded by any Enemy, and enclos'd with Fortifications that are of the same nature with those of the last-mention'd Cities. These places cannot be de∣scrib'd without repeating the word Fortification a hundred times in a quarter of an hour.* 1.374 Stras∣burg is a Prodigy which in that respect surp••sses all the other fortified places on the Rhine. The Plat-form I have sent you will give you a clearer Idea of it than the exactest description I could make. It was formerly an Imperial City, and follow'd the Doctrin of Luther.

You may remember that this Great, Fair and Potent City fell into the French King's Hands Sept. 30. 1682.

The* 1.375 Steeple of the Cathedral is the highest

Pyramid in Europe, and the Church is at present in the possession of the Roman Catholics. The Bishop said Mass there, and harangu'd the King, a few days after the Conquest of the City.

I can assure you (as one that has seen 'em both) that the great Clock of Strasburg does much exceed that of St. John's at Lyons, both in the variety and curiosity of its motions. They say at Strasburg, that the last-nam'd Clock is the best in France, but that theirs cannot be paral∣lel'd in the whole World. There is a printed Description of it, with a very exact Figure.

The little River Ill runs thro' this City, and afterwards is branch'd out into several Channels. The Rhine is about a mile distant, towards the right hand.

The Arsenal, which not long ago was cele∣brated over all Europe, is now almost quite dis∣furnish'd.

The Womens Habit is very odd and fantasti∣cal.

I must tell you, before I conclude my Letter, that all the Towns and Villages we have hither∣to seen in Alsatia are either wholly ruin'd, or half burnt, this lovely and unfortunate Country having been several times laid waste during the Wars. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Strasburg, Jul. 22 1688.

LETTER XXXVI.

SIR,

SOME particular Reasons having oblig'd us to leave Strasburg, and make all the haste we could to Brussels, we resolv'd to embark on the Rhine, tho' not without some reluctancy, because we had already travel'd the same way between Mentz and Colen.

Between Strasburg and the little City of Ger∣mensheim we stop'd at Fort-Lewis,* 1.376 which is ano∣ther French Fort, and not inferiour to the rest in Strength. Here the Rhine makes an Island, which is cover'd with a Fort of four Bastions, and the two Bridges are fortified on each side, on the Banks of the two Arms of the River.

Night coming on somewhat sooner than our Boatmen expected, we were oblig'd to land at a miserable Village, where we could neither find Beds nor Victuals: but that was not our grea∣test Misfortune, for an innumerable multitude of Gnats tormented us the whole night on our Straw in a Barn, and would not suffer us to rest a mo∣ment.

* 1.377We went ashore afterwards to see Philipsburg, which is a small Cannon-shot distant from the Rhine, on the German side. It was formerly a* 1.378 Village, fortified by Christopher Sotteren Ele∣ctor

of Triers, by reason of the conveniency of its situation, being naturally of difficult access, in the middle of a Marish, and not commanded by any rising Ground. 'Tis a regular Heptagon with Half-Moons before each Curtain. This Town is a Fief, and under the jurisdiction of the Bishopric of Spire;* 1.379 it was taken from the French after a long Siege, in the year 1676, by the Germans, who relying on the Faith of the Truce, have not a very strong Garrison in it.

Spire is a pretty little City,* 1.380 weak and with∣out Trade, tho' it was famous heretofore: that which makes it considerable at present is the Im∣perial Chamber, which, after it had mov'd from place to place for above Two hundred years, was fix'd here by Charles V. This Chamber is a Soveraign Court, where all the Affairs of the Empire that are brought before it, are judg'd without appeal, unless in some few Cases. The Chief† 1.381 Judge represents the Emperor's Person, and has the Imperial Scepter laid before him, as a mark of the Dignity with which he is cloth'd.

There is also another great Tribunal in Ger∣many call'd The Council of the Court, because 'tis held at Vienna, or follows the Imperial Court. This‖ 1.382 Council is not perpetual, nor, in all re∣spects,

of equal Dignity with the Imperial Cham∣ber; yet Cases of the same nature are also de∣bated, and soveraignly determin'd here. No Suits can be remov'd from one of these Cham∣bers to the other; only in some cases a review of the Judgment may be obtain'd before the Empe∣ror himself.

The express Orders which the Mareschal de Turenne receiv'd during the last Wars, not to disturb or interrupt the ordinary course of Ju∣stice in the Chamber of Spire, makes the Mem∣bers of that Court believe that they shall be still treated with the same Respect. And they are so firmly perswaded of the* 1.383 French Civi∣lity, that tho' they lye open to an Invasion, in case of a Rupture, they never think of remo∣ving either the Court or Original Records.

I shall pass from Spire to Colen, having no∣thing to add to the account I have already gi∣ven you of the Cities that lye between 'em.

* 1.384At our departure from Colen we took the Road to Juliers, the Motropolis of the Dutchy of the same Name. As far as we could judge by the slight view we had of it, 'tis pretty well for∣tified. Here the Protestants enjoy the free exer∣cise of their Religion, by vertue of the Treaty which I mention'd before.

* 1.385Leaving Juliers, we pass'd thro' a good and pleasant Country, and in four or five hours came to Aix la Chapelle. That famous City is

still large and beautiful, tho' it has lost much of its ancient lustre. It has also preserv'd its Liberty entire; only the Duke of Newburg, as Duke of Juliers, within whose Lands it lies, has a Right to name the Burgo-master. 'Tis under the Protection of the King of Spain, as Duke of Brabant.

This* 1.386 City was almost wholly rebuilt by Charles the Great, having lain desolate for almost four Ages, after it was sack'd by Attila. The same Emperor endow'd it with several Privi∣leges, made it the capital City of Gaul beyond the Alps, and honour'd it with his usual Residence. He built also the great Church, from which the Town took the Name of Aix la Chapelle, where∣as before it was call'd Aquisgranum, from a† 1.387 Ro∣man Prince nam'd Granus, a Brother or Kinsman of Nero, who having discover'd Mineral Wa∣ters in this place, built a Castle, and laid the first Foundations of the City. Charles the Great‖ 1.388 dy'd here, and his Tomb remains to this day.

For the space of above Five hundred years, several Emperors that succeeded Charles the Great were desirous to be Crown'd at Aix; and I think I told you that Charles IV. made a posi∣tive regulation of this Ceremony, by one of the Constitutions of the Golden Bull, which ordain'd that the Emperors should afterwards receive their first Crown here; but that Custom has been laid aside for some time, and there remain only two Marks of the ancient Privileges of this City; first, there are Deputies sent both to Aix

and Nuremburg, to acquaint 'em with the Electi∣on of a new Emperor, that they may send the Imperial * Ornaments and other things necessa∣ry for the Solemnity of the Inauguration,* 1.389 that are deposited in their hands. And secondly, wheresoever the Ceremony is perform'd, the Emperor declares solemnly, That tho' for some particular Reasons he could not receive his first Crown at Aix, that Omission shall not be inter∣preted to the prejudice or diminution of the Privileges of that City. The Emperor is always a Canon of Aix, and takes an Oath for that pur∣pose, on the day of his Coronation.

Some Persons here assure me, that both Reli∣gions enjoy equal Privileges at Aix; but I must confess I forgot to enquire, when I pass'd by that City, and therefore I will affirm nothing positively.

I read t'other day, in a short description of the Country of Juliers,* 1.390 that two Canoniz'd Prelates gave themselves the trouble of rising from the Dead on purpose to be present at the Dedication of the Chapel of Aix, after which they march'd back to their Tombs. Does not this Story put you in mind of L. Q. Cincinnatus, who after he had been Dictator, and gain'd a Battel, return'd peaceably to his Plough.

* 1.391We stay'd but two or three hours at Ma∣streicht, a City of an indifferent largeness, pretty well built, and strongly fortified; the Garrison consists of between Nine and Ten thousand Men, and we saw the† 1.392 Prince of Orange take a review of 'em. Some Battalions perform'd se∣veral Martial Exercises, and they are all extream∣ly

well disciplin'd. The little part of the City on the right Bank of the Meuse is call'd Wyek▪ I know not whether you have observ'd that the Names of Mastreicht and Vtrecht are both deriv'd from the word Trajectum, which is their common Name in Latin. Ʋtrecht was call'd inferius or ulterius Trajectum, and was the passage of the Rhine. And Mastreicht was nam'd Mosae Trajectum, the passage of the Meuse, and Traje∣ctum superius, or the upper Passage.

About Three a-clock in the Afternoon we left Mastreicht,* 1.393 and arriv'd the same Evening at Liege, which we found so full of People,* 1.394 by rea∣son of the Ceremony of the Bishop's Election, that we could not be accommodated with Beds.

Liege is a pretty large City, populous, and adorn'd with some fine Structures, of which the Cathedral Church and the Bishop's Palace are the two principal. Formerly there was not a Chapter in the whole Empire so honourable as that of Liege. The Annals of this City relate, that in the year 1131, when the Emperor Lo∣tharius II. was crown'd in this place by Pope Innocent II, the Chapter that assisted at the Ce∣remony was compos'd of nine Sons of Kings, fourteen Sons of Dukes who were Soveraign Princes, nine and twenty Counts of the Sacred Empire, and eight Barons. But now any Li∣centiate Doctor in the University of Lovain may be a Canon of Liege.

This City is divided by the Meuse into two parts, of which that on the left side of the Ri∣ver is the principal. They are join'd by a fair Stone-bridge, which gives a passage under its

Arches to great Barks, which bring all sorts of Merchandise, and are very convenient for Trade.

* 1.395There are many Armorers in this place, who are drawn hither, without doubt, for the con∣veniency of Coal, which is found here, and burnt as commonly as at London. 'Tis call'd Houille, from a certain Smith nam'd Good-man le Houilloux, by whom, they pretend, it was first discover'd. They add, that a Ghost, under the shape of an old Man cloth'd in white, shew'd him the Mine.

The Vineyards with which the little Hills of Liege are almost wholly cover'd, deserve to be taken notice of, because of the Climate, tho' the Wine is not strong. The same Hills contain Quarries of very fine black Marble.

Departing from Liege we pass'd in sight of Tongres and Saintron, and lay at the little City of Tilmont.* 1.396 The next day we din'd at Lovain, and arriv'd in the Evening at Brussels, where we still remain.

* 1.397Lovain, the second City of Brabant, is very large, and pleasantly built; 'tis said there are some Monuments in it of the age of Caesar. We visited several fair Churches, the Town-house, the School of Medicine, and some other consi∣derable

Structures; but, in my Opinion, the Ʋniversity is its greatest Ornament, which was founded by John IV, Duke of Brabant, in the year 1425. It contains Five and forty endow'd Colleges, with Schools of Divinity, Law and Physick.

An Inhabitant of Lovain, who happen'd to be in an Inn where we were, offer'd to carry us to a Convent a quarter of a league from the City, where he promis'd to procure us a sight of several Curiosities, but we had not time to accept of his Kindness. He told us, that among other things there was in that Monastery a Genealogical Stem of the House of Croüy, by which it appear'd, that the Head of that Fa∣mily now living was descended in a right line from Adam. An English Gentleman, to whom I related the Story t'other day, assur'd me, that he knew several Families in Wales, who produce like Catalogues of their Ancestors. But don't ye think they might content themselves with deri∣ving their Pedigree from Noah? If these Gen∣telmen had read* 1.398 Le Feron's Heraldry, who in∣forms us, that Adam bore Three Fig-leaves in his Coat of Arms, 'tis probable they would not make use of any other Scutcheon. I hope we shall meet with some noble Preadamites some time or other.

At Mr. Gutschoven's House, who is a Physician and great Anatomist, we saw several embalm'd Bodies, dissected after divers methods, and very well preserv'd, in which the Veins, Arteries, Muscles, Nerves, &c. are separated and distin∣guish'd from each other, so that almost the entire Contexture of the Parts of a Human Body may

be perfectly discern'd. The Veins, Arteries, and even the least Fibres, are fill'd with a cer∣tain red matter, which makes 'em appear like so many Branches of Coral. This is esteem'd a rare Curiosity.

I must not forget to mention another Rarity which we saw at Milan. Some Dutch Mariners shew'd for Two-pence a Sea-Calf, which they had taken on the Coast of Greenland, and was grown so tame, that he who had the chief care of it could make it play a hundred apish Tricks. 'Tis about the bigness of a Lamb fifteen days old; its Hair is smooth, soft, and almost of an Olive colour; it has a short Head, with two Whiskers like a Cat,* 1.399 and its four Feet end in Toes or Claws join'd like those of a Goose; it walks and stands on its fore-feet, and draws the other two after it, which are always stretch'd backwards. This Amphibious Creature is at pre∣sent nourish'd with Milk. I remember, as we pass'd by the Hague, almost a year ago, a Lady of Zealand told me she had seen a tame Sea Dog at Tergoutz, who eat all sorts of Victuals, and bark'd like other Dogs, but made a duller noise.

I have been long expecting, with impatience, to hear from you; I entreat you to do me the favour to write to me as soon as you can. I am very sincerely,

SIR,

Your &c.

Brussels, Aug. 12. 1688.

LETTER XXXVII.

SIR,

YOUR Reflexions on my last Letters, and several other Passages in that which I re∣ceiv'd from you, might furnish me with suffi∣cient matter for a very long Answer; but since I hope to have the honour to see you very spee∣dily, I shall defer the further consideration of these points till our meeting, and at present on∣ly communicate to you some of those Observa∣tions I have made during our stay at Brussels,

I need not tell you,* 1.400 that this is the capital City of the Dutchy of Brabant, and the ordina∣ry Residence of the Governors of the Spanish Netherlands.

This City is of an oval Figure, large, popu∣lous, enclos'd* 1.401 only with a Wall and Ditches, and situated partly in a Plain, and partly on the Brow of a little Hill. The low Town is divided by great Canals, which are fill'd by the little Ri∣ver Senne, and communicate with that of the Scheld. These Canals are navigable by Barks of a considerable burthen, and are very convenient for Trade. The Air of Brussels is very good; the public places are adorn'd with Fountains, the Streets are of a convenient breadth and well pav'd, the Houses large and commodious, and the whole neighbouring Country is extreamly fertile.

The People of Brussels, and generally of all Brabant, are free, kind, civil, and perhaps a little too easie; but notwithstanding all their Simpli∣city, they change their Humor when they are provok'd, and have on some occasions given suf∣ficient Proofs of their Bravery.

The Palace, usually call'd the Court, where the* 1.402 Governour resides, is neither regular nor magnificent, and at most can be call'd moderate∣ly beautiful; but the prospect of the Park from its principal Apartments is extreamly pleasant.

Descending from the Palace to the Park, on the end of a Wall near the little Garden, I ob∣serv'd a great Gun, the Story of which deserves to be related; but that I may not detain you too long, I shall only subjoin the† 1.403 Inscription which is engrav'd on a piece of Marble beneath the Cannon:

Dederit ne viam Casúsve Deúsve? Mirabili certe casu Hostilis navis tormentis Regiis perforata Cum accenso pulvere crepuisset; Hoc tormentum, & unà Juvenculam Altè sublatam in Regis Praetorio deposuit. Adeo tutum in Rege non solum Innocentia Sed etiam supplex hostilitas perfugium habet ISABELLA CLARA EUGENIA BELGII PRINCEPS in rei monumentum Tormentum hîc deponi, Juvenculam ali jussit.

From the Garden or Flower-plot you ascend to the Park, which is planted with Oaks, Beech-trees, and Walnut-trees, and contains a great

number of Deer. Its lovely Alleys make one of the pleasantest Walks about the City; and you may also walk quite round the Ramparts, almost always between two rows of Trees.

On the other side of the Park there is a little House of Pleasure, which was* 1.404 built by Charles the Fifth, and where among other things the Cradle of that Emperor is still preserv'd. In the great Hall of the other Palace he resign'd the Kingdom of Spain to his Son Philip.

Not far from thence they shew'd us a large Gallery full of several sorts of Arms and Fur∣niture for Turnaments, besides ancient Suits of Harness or Armour of several Emperors, Kings, Archdukes, and other Princes or great Captains.

In the same place they have also taken care to preserve the Memory of three illustrious Hor∣ses, whose Skins are glu'd on artificial Horses of the same stature with the Originals. They told us, That one of these Horses was sold for 12000 Crowns to Philip II, who made a Pre∣sent of him to Lewis de Requesens, great Com∣mander of Castil, and† 1.405 Governour of the Ne∣therlands. The second had the Honour to bear the Infanta Isabella, when she made her Entry into Brussels. And the third sav'd the Life of Archduke Albert, at the Siege of Ostend.

One of my Friends gave me the Epitaph of the last of these Animals, whose Name was Noble; you will find in it a Reflexion worthy of a Horse of Merit.

Siste gradum, Spectator; ego de nomine dicor Nobilis; at Virtus nomine major erat. Archiduci Alberto prostravi terga, tenacem Cum circa Ostendam Martia Erinnys erat. Hunc ipsum eripui pugnantem hostilibus armis, Cum Mors sanguineum falce parabat opus. Me magis ardebat Miles, quia Virginis instar, Cernebat niveâ crescere fronte jubam. Hinc, ut me raperet, crebrò sua spicula & enses In caput ignoti struxerat Archiducis. Evasi, eduxique Virum, meque ipse reduxit Incolumem. Nostrae non erat hora necis. Ast anno vertente, die quo evasimus ambo, Nobilis interii. Cernite qualis eram.

There is a very odd Custom in this City, that Coaches are drawn by Dogs as usually as by Hor∣ses.* 1.406 They Harness three or four Mastiffs, whom they place at one another's side, and make 'em draw prodigious weights. I am certainly in∣form'd, that, on a Wager, two of those Ani∣mals drew five Men in a Coach from one end of the City to the other. Besides, which is the main conveniency in this way of carriage, Dogs may be kept at a much easier rate than Horses, and here there are Eating houses or Half-penny Ordinaries for 'em, where they may fill their Bellies with Flesh taken from the Dunghills, and such other Victuals.

† 1.407Since it has been observ'd by some Authors that the Roman Censors caus'd the * Filth that

was taken ex latrinis, or out of the Common-shores, to be* 1.408 sold, and that the price of it in one year amounted to Six hundred thousand Crowns, I may venture to acquaint you, that they drive the same Trade at Brussels. They gather all the Filth of the City very carefully into one place, and after it is duly fermented, it is bought and sold like other Commodities. I had the fortune one day to pass by that place just as three or four Dutch Barks were taking in their sweet Lading; this put me in mind of Juvenal's Reflexion, which I think could never be more fitly apply'd;

—lucri bonus ex re Qualibet.—

You know Vespasian's Answer to Titus concerning the Imposition on Urine. As they are great Lo∣vers of Flowers in Holland and Flanders, they take particular care to preserve this sort of Dung to make Beds for 'em; and I fancy the odori∣ferous Smell of those Flowers might furnish matter for a Riddle, not unlike to that of Sam∣pson's Honey.

To change the Subject of our Discourse, I can assure you that there are few Cities in this Country so well furnish'd with good Company as Brussels. Almost all the Inhabitants speak French; there is a great number of Persons of Quality; the Ladies are handsom, and a Stran∣ger may be easily introduc'd into the best com∣pany.

Four or five great Streets of the low Town form an Island, and at the same time a kind of

Circle, where they usually take the Air in Coaches every Evening, and even in Winter as well as in Summer; for they chuse rather to take their Pleasure in Coaches than to walk a foot, whereas at Paris the Tuilleries are more fre∣quented than the Walks for Coaches.

I told you before, that at Rome, and in some other Towns of Italy, the Men never enter into the same Coach with Women; and the same custom is also generally observ'd here when they go to take the Air. But whereas at Rome they are possess'd with an opinion, that Decency will not admit the Women to be seen in com∣pany with Men, here they separate out of pure Gallantry. Perhaps you will imagin this to be a Paradox, but you must consider that the Men go on one side and the Women on the other, and that they meet, and talk, and ogle as they please. Thus their division occasions a more general So∣ciety, which would be very diverting, if every one were not oblig'd to salute all that pass by, and to repeat his Salutations as often as he meets another Coach.

There is a pleasant Ceremony observ'd by the Citizens on the 19th of January. The Wo∣men undress their Husbands and carry 'em to Bed, and on the morrow the Husbands treat their Friends. I cannot give you a positive account of the Original of this Custom, but I had the fortune to be in a company where there were two different Reasons given for it, and both the opposite Parties persisted obstinately in their several Opinions.

Some alledg'd, that on a certain time (which they did not think fit to mention more particu∣larly) the City being reduc'd to Extremity after a long Siege, at last surrender'd on Condition, that the Women should be suffer'd to depart unmolested with their little Children, and all that they could carry with 'em besides; and that in∣stead of packing up their Toilettes, every one march'd out with her Best-beloved between her Shoulders, and so cheated their Enemies.

Others, who laugh'd at this Story and call'd it a Fable, assur'd us, that a considerable num∣ber of the Inhabitants of Brussels follow'd St. Lewis in his first Croisado, and had the good fortune to suffer less than most other Troops which compos'd that numerous Army when it was totally routed: For, continu'd our Infor∣mers, the greatest part of 'em either escap'd or were redeem'd, and afterwards they join'd in a Body to return home. Now their Wives hear∣ing of their approach, ran to meet 'em, and in a Transport of Joy caught 'em up, and carried 'em home in their Arms. But, if I durst pre∣sume to mend the Story, instead of overloading the Women with so unreasonable a Burden, I would content my self with making 'em undress their Husbands the first night after their return, by reason of the good Humour of the former, and the Weariness of the latter.

These Warriours put me in mind of a sort of Monument that is to be seen over the Gate of Flanders, where there are Figures of Men arm'd with Spits. An honest old Man, who made me take notice of 'em, told me, that they were plac'd there for a Memorial of the Valour of

his Countrymen, on the following occasion. When the People of Ghent revolted under the Government of the Queen Dowager of Hunga∣ry, Charles the Fifth's Sister, and came to sur∣prize and plunder this City, the Rabble of the Town sallied out of the above-mention'd Gate, arm'd with Spits and Pitchforks, and bravely repuls'd the Enemy.

The finest Churches in Brussels are those of St. Gudula and of the Jesuits. These Fathers have great Bells, such as are us'd in Parish Churches, contrary to the usual Custom. They made use of the Pretext of certain extraordinary Catechi∣zings, to obtain leave to ring a small Bell; but by degrees they left off that troublesom Exer∣cise, and in the mean time augmented their * Bell. This piece of boldness stirs up the Jealousie of the other Monks, who were not over-fond of the Jesuits before.

The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament of Miracles is particularly taken notice of at St. Gudula's, be∣cause of the Relicks that are kept in it. There is a Tradition, that certain Jews having bought several consecrated Hosts of a Priest, stab'd 'em with a Knife, and that a great deal of Blood flow'd out of the Wounds. The Jews were burnt on the highest Tower of the City-walls, so that the Fire was seen at the distance of Ten miles, and the Hosties were found and plac'd on the Altar of the Chapel, in a Shrine of Gold. This Story is painted on the Wall near the Quire.

The Church of the Capuchins is one of the finest Temples that those Fryars have in any part of the World.

There are several Rarities in the Library of the Jesuits, and among other things the Chair of Leather gilt, in which Charles V. perform'd the Ceremony of his Resignation.

The Chapel of the Family of Tassis, in the Church Des Sablons, deserves to be particularly consider'd.

I'm inform'd, that of Five and thirty thou∣sand Acres which the Province of Brabant con∣tains, Nine and twenty thousand are possess'd by Ecclesiastical Societies.

There are some few Protestants at Brussels, but they are not allow'd the least degrees of Liber∣ty, neither do they own their Religion openly; yet this Country is not under the Power of the Inquisition, for the States would never suffer that Tyrannical Court to be establish'd among 'em.

I design'd to have given you some account of the Academy, the Theater, the public Place, the Town house, with its Pictures and fine-Tower, the Duke de Bournonville's Gardens, the Count of Egmont's Hall, the Carmelites Garden, and the Glass-house; but I am forc'd to con∣clude my Letter. You know that Lace and Tapestry make a part of the Trade of this City.

We are just going to take a turn to Antwerp, from whence we design to return hither, and after two or three days to proceed on our Jour∣ney homeward, by the way of Ghent, Bruges, Ostend, and Newport, where we expect to find the Yacht. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Brussels, Sept. 23. 1688.

LETTER XXXVI.

SIR,

FROM Brussels we made use of the or∣dinary Passage by the Canal, and in five hours came to the Village call'd little Villebroeck, where we embark'd on the Ruppel, and by the help of a favourable Wind and Tide, in less than two hours, arriv'd at Antwerp.

At our departure from Antwerp we hir'd a Coach, which carried us by the way of Mechlin to the little City of Vilvorden, where we took Boat for Brussels, which is but two leagues distant.

* 1.409Mechlin is famous for its neatness, in which nevertheless, if I may judge by what appear'd to us, it exceeds not other places. There is a great deal of Lace made here, and the River Dyle, on which the Town is situated, fills the Canals, which open a communication between this and most of the neighbouring Cities. The Women of the Lordship of Mechlin go fre∣quently to Brabant to be brought to Bed, that their Children may enjoy the Privileges of the Natives of that Province. I have subjoin'd an Abstract of these so much talk'd of Privileges:

I. The Duke (who at present is the King of Spain) shall not call a Meeting of the Prelates or

inferiour Clergy, without the Knowledge, Consent, and particular Approbation of the Two other States, the Nobility and Common People.

II. The Duke shall not prosecute any of his Sub∣jects or Inhabitants of the Country, but by the usual methods of Justice, that the accus'd Person may de∣fend himself by his Counsel, and plead his own Cause publickly.

III. The Duke shall not be impower'd to impose Taxes, or any other Exactions, on his Subjects, with∣out the Consent of the States of the Country.

IV. No honourable Office shall be bestow'd on For∣reigners, excepting only some inconsiderable Employ∣ments.

V. When the Duke calls a Meeting of the States-General, to require any thing to be granted to him, those of Brabant shall not be oblig'd to go out of their own Province, or to come to any conclusion, but in the same,

VI. If the Duke shall by Force, Fraud, or any other way infringe or violate any of the said Privileges, the People of Brabant, after they have duly and civilly protested against him, shall be held to be absolv'd from their Oath of Fidelity, and may freely do as they shall think fit.

The Province of Brabant, and Lordship of Mechlin, by an ancient Custom, never receive any particular Governor. The great Council Royal, which was instituted by Charles Duke of Burgundy, in the year 1473, and formerly fol∣low'd the Court, was fix'd at Mechlin An. 1503. It judges Soveraignly, and without Appeal, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, nor can its Judg∣ments

be review'd. I could not hear of any Rarities worth observation in this City.

* 1.410The famous City of Antwerp deserves to be more particularly describ'd. 'Tis seated on a smooth and level spot of Ground, on the right Bank of the Scheld; its Figure approaches to a Semicircle, the diameter of which is wash'd by the River, and I'm credibly inform'd that it contains Five thousand six hundred and thirty five Geometrical paces in compass. The Houses are built partly of Wood, and partly of Brick, after an unusual manner, with Battlements on the Pinacles on the tops of 'em, and very high Roofs, according to the common Fashion of the Coun∣try, yet they are generally handsom. The Streets, for the most part, are large, streight, and well pav'd.

The Fortifications are indifferent; the Ram∣parts are adorn'd almost throughout with dou∣ble Alleys border'd with great Trees, which make very pleasant Walks; the Citadel is strong, but somewhat neglected; 'tis a regular Pentagon.

It was built in the year 1567, and I'm told it cost Five hundred thousand Ducats: the Duke of Alva's Statue in Brass was erected in the mid∣dle of the Place of Arms; he was represented in compleat Armour, but without a Headpiece, his right Arm was extended toward the City, and his Hand open. Under his Feet was a mon∣strous Figure with two Heads and six Arms; it had two Dishes hanging at its Ears, and at its Neck a Wallet or Satchel, out of which

issu'd two Serpents. The six Hands held a Torch, a Leaf of Paper, a Purse, a torn Cloak, a Club, and an Ax, and at the Feet of the Mon∣ster there was a Visor: On the Face of the Pede∣stal that look'd toward the City were these Let∣ters:* 1.411 F. A. A. T. A. D. P. S. H. R. A. B. P. Q. E. S. R. P. R. P. I. C. P. P. F. R. O. M. F. P. This Statue was not long after broken by the People.

I find a pleasant Story in Chappuys, which I cannot forbear relating to you. When the Spa∣niards made the Duke of Arschot Governour of this Citadel, the Duke putting his Hands be∣tween the Person's Hands who was to receive his Oath, pronounced these words; I swear by the Name of God, and of the Holy Mary, that I will faithfully keep and preserve this Citadel, &c. After which the following Answer was return'd to him as part of the Ceremony: If you do so, God as∣sist you; if not, the Devil take you, Soul and Body: And the whole Assembly answer'd Amen.

The Scheld is large and deep over against Antwerp, and two leagues on each side of it; this was formerly the richest and most frequen∣ted Port in Europe. I read not long ago in some Fragments of the Annals of this City, that the Trade of it, in the year 1550, amounted to a hundred and thirty three millions of Gold, without reckoning the Bank. In the same Me∣moirs* 1.412

I found the following Story, which may serve for a Specimen of the ancient Riches of Antwerp.

One John Daens, a Merchant, lent a million of Gold to Charles V, (I think) toward the prosecution of the War of Hungary: the Em∣peror, at his return from that Expedition, came to Antwerp, and was invited to Dinner by his Creditor; he accepted the Invitation, and was splendidly entertain'd; and the Merchant, af∣ter he had burnt a Fire of Cinnamon all the while, at last, to crown the Treat, threw the Emperor's Obligation into the midst of it.

I need not tell you, that there have happen'd great Alterations since that time. The Port of Antwerp is destitute of Ships; the Exchange is desolate and unfrequented, and the City, tho' still beautiful, enjoys a sad Tranquillity, yet there are many rich Families in it.

London and Antwerp were the two principal Cities of the German Hanse or League. That great Society had a* 1.413 large and fair public House in the last of those Cities, which is still to be seen: the Bourse or Exchange is Ninety Foot long, and Seventy broad, comprehending the wideness of the Portico's that surround it on the inside. It was built in the year 1531, and took its Name from a House that stood former∣ly in the same place, on which there was a Scutcheon charg'd with three† 1.414 Purses, and from that time the public places appointed for the meeting of Merchants have almost every where retain'd the Name of Bourse. The Town house is also a very fine Structure.

The first time I saw the Churches of Antwerp I confess I was surpriz'd with their Magnificence, and especially I admir'd that which belong'd to the Jesuits, where there is nothing to be seen but Marble and rare Pictures; but since that time I have seen a hundred Churches in Italy which surpass those of this City. Nevertheless that Country cannot boast of such a Pyramid as the Steeple of the Cathedral of Antwerp, which is almost as* 1.415 high as that of Strasburg, and more finely wrought: 'Tis true, the Italians have Domes and Towers separated from the Body of the Church, but they are perfect Stran∣gers to such Steeples as that of this Cathedral.

Thirty paces from the same Church there is a Well, where we observ'd that the Iron bran∣ches on which the Pully hangs are adorn'd with Foliages, and were told that they were wrought by a famous Smith call'd Quintin Mathys. This Anvil-beater became enamour'd of a Painter's Daughter, and had the good Fortune to touch her Heart; he was handsom, witty, and ingeni∣ous, and besides was Master of a considerable Fortune for a man of his Profession; but the Painter would by no means be perswaded to give his Daughter to a Black-smith. The old man's Obstinacy did not dishearten Quintin; his Love animated him, and taught him to over∣come that difficulty: he exchang'd his Hammer for a Pencil, and in a little time equal'd and even surpass'd the best Painters in Antwerp; after which he receiv'd the dear Reward of his La∣bours. This generous Lover dy'd Anno 1529, and was buried at the Foot of the Cathedral,

near the great Portal; the following Verse is en∣grav'd on the Wall over his Tomb.

CONNƲBIALIS AMOR DE MƲLCIBRE FECIT APELLEM; Love metamorphos'd Vulcan to Apelles.

Plantin's Printing-house remains in some mea∣sure to this very day; 'tis now in the possession of Moretus, who is also a very skilful Printer.

The Water of the Scheld being always brackish before Antwerp, and the Fountains of the City not sufficient to serve the Brewhouses, they were forc'd to be at the charge of bringing a new supply of Water by a Canal, which empties its self into a great Cistern, out of which the Water is rais'd by Engines to a large Bason, from whence 'tis distributed by forty Pipes to as many Brewhouses. The Brewers are fix'd to that number by reason of the great scarcity of Water, which they have only at certain hours, and every one knows when to open the Cock of his Pipe.

Some Authors relate, That Charles the Fifth passing thro' Paris, to show his contempt of that City, said he would put it in his* 1.416 Glove, mean∣ing, That it might be contain'd in Ghent. The Jests of great Princes are commonly receiv'd as Oracles; and this little Story, whether true or false, has doubtless occasion'd the ridiculous mi∣stake of several Authors, who speak of Ghent as

of the greatest City in Europe. I know not whether it might not be contain'd in the Suburb of St. Germans; but I'm sure it will appear very inconsiderable if it be compar'd to Paris. 'Tis true, Ghent is a City, but Paris is a little World.

After all, it must be acknowledg'd, that Ghent is a very pleasant place; 'tis a fine City, neat, prettily built, in a good Air, and convenient situation: whereas at Paris the Houses hide the City; here they are not so thick, but that the Town may be easily view'd. The French King took it in six days, notwithstanding the Inunda∣tions of its Sluces, Ann. 1678.

It receives great Advantages from the neigh∣bourhood of the Scheld and Lys; there is a Bridge over the latter, on which there are two Statues of Brass representing one Man ready to cut off another's Head. The same Figures are to be seen in a large Picture in the Town-house, with this Inscription written below;

Ae Gandt le en Fandt fraepe sae Pere se taete desuu maeis se heppe rompe si graece de Dieu, 1371.

I know not whether you can understand this Gaulish or rather old Walloon Tongue without the help of an Interpreter. A Gand, says the Inscription, l'Enfant frappe son Pere dessus la teste, mais son épée romp, par la grace de Dieu. To ex∣plain the meaning of it, they told us the fol∣lowing Story: A Father and his Son being convicted of a certain Crime, receiv'd Sentence of Death, but afterwards a Pardon was offer'd to either of 'em that would be the other's Exe∣cutioner.

This rigorous Mercy inspir'd both the unhappy Wretches with a desire of dying, and they contended obstinately for that which they esteem'd the more advantageous part of so cruel a Choice; but at last the Father prevail'd, he had a greater Strength of Mind, and the length of his Life had weaken'd the desire of it. After the Son had resolv'd to take away the Life of him to whom he ow'd his own, and had already put himself in a posture to give the fatal blow, the Sword either broke in the Air, or the Blade flew out of the Handle; which Accident being interpreted as a particular Effect of Providence, both the Malefactors were set at liberty.

The ancient Building, call'd the Princes Court, was heretofore the Palace of the Counts of Flanders. We went thither to see the Chamber where Charles the Fifth was* 1.417 born, which is so little a Room, that 'tis impossible there could ever be a Bed in it; and yet there is an ancient Inscription which proves evidently, that this is the place where that Prince came into the World. However, Ghent has no reason to boast of giving birth to so great a Prince,* 1.418 for he us'd it so roughly afterwards, that it had been better for that City he had never been born. 'Tis observ'd that his birth happen'd on St. Matthias's day, and that afterwards on the same day he was pro∣claim'd Emperor, and took King Francis I. Prisoner.

The Cathedral is a vast Structure, dedicated to St. Bavon. Here I observ'd an Epitaph on a certain Prelate, which (tho' plain and short) is perhaps more expressive than the most studied Elogies.

Ecclesia Antistitem amisit, Respublica Virum.

The Church has lost a Bishop, And the Commonwealth a Man.

From Ghent we embark'd on the Canal that leads to Bruges, which, without controversie,* 1.419 is a very large and fair City. It does not com∣prehend so large an extent of Ground as Ghent,* 1.420 but 'tis much better inhabited, and its Buildings are more uniform. Ships of Five hundred Tun may come up to it by the great Canal, but Hol∣land has drawn the Trade from hence as well as from Antwerp.

The Order of the Golden Fleece was instituted at Bruges, by* 1.421 Philip the Good Duke of Burgun∣dy, in the year† 1.422 430. I shall give you a brief account of three or four different Opinions I have observ'd concerning the institution of that Order. Some think it was occasion'd by that Prince's‡ 1.423 falling in love with a Maid of mean

Parentage* 1.424, whose Gown was furr'd with Lamb-skin. Others relate, that esteeming the extraordinary Plen∣ty and Abundance of the year of his Marriage with Elizabeth or Isabel of Portugal to be a presage of Future Happiness; and ob∣serving that the initial Letters of the five Months of Harvest, July, August, September, October, and November, make the word JA∣SON, he instituted this Order with allusion to the celebrated Fleece of Colchis. There are others, who pretend that it was instituted upon occasion of a cer∣tain extraordinary Adventure that happen'd to that Prince; which had some relation to the Story of Gideon's Fleece.* 1.425 And in the last place, some are of Opinion, that the great Encrease of his Revenue, by the importation of the En∣glish Wooll, gave occasion to the institution of this Order.

I observ'd at Brussels, either in St. Gudula's Church or the Town-house, an ancient piece of Tapestry adorn'd with the Arms of Burgundy,* 1.426 and with a representation of the Story of Gi∣deon's Fleece, which probably may have some relation to the Badge of this Order. I remem∣ber also that† 1.427 la Marche relates, in his Memoirs, That at the magnificent Entertainment call'd The Feast of Vows, which Philip the Good‖ 1.428 made

in the City of Lisle, among several other Di∣vertisements, Sports and Comedies, with which the Solemnity was accompanied, the whole History of Jason, and the Conquest of the Gol∣den Fleece, was represented. And the same Au∣thor makes frequent mention of the Mystery of the Fleece of Burgundy, both which Observati∣ons laid together, seem to confirm the second Opinion; and after all, who knows whether Duke Philip had not all the four above-mention'd Considerations in his view when he instituted this Order?

You know that the King of Spain, as Duke of Burgundy, is Soveraign of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

Departing from Bruges, we embark'd again on the Canal, and in three hours arriv'd at the little City of Ostend.* 1.429 The Fortifications are prettily contriv'd, but the great Sluces by which it receives Water from the Sea, and communi∣cates the same to Bruges, is the most remarkable thing about it.

'Tis almost impossible to speak of Ostend with∣out calling to mind the most famous* 1.430 Siege that the World perhaps ever saw. This little Fisher-town, meanly fortified, sustain'd the shock of a potent Enemy for almost three years and three months, during which time it receiv'd above Three hundred thousand Cannon-shot, oftentimes under the covert of heaps of dead Bodies, with which the besieg'd repair'd the Breaches, lost above† 1.431 Seventy thousand Men, and kill'd a‖ 1.432 greater number of its Enemies; and after all, this little mass of Ruins, overpower'd

by the numbers of the Besiegers, and unable to hold out longer against so unequal a Force, ex∣torted Articles of Capitulation from its Enemies.

There is a Canal between Ostend and Newport, but for the conveniency of a quicker passage, we chose rather to hire a Coach.

* 1.433I have nothing to add concerning the little City of Newport, but that it puts an end to our Peregrination, on this side of your British Seas.

By the good Providence of God, our little Voyage has been in all respects happy, and the Pleasure that attended it was never inter∣rupted by Sickness or any Accident. And in particular I must own my self extreamly oblig'd to our common Friend M. S. Waring, whose good Company we enjoy'd all the way. He is Master of many excellent Qualifications, which charm all those that converse with him.

To conclude, whatever Satisfaction may be found in Travelling, I can assure you, that 'tis always a very sensible Pleasure to return home. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Newport, Ostob. 3. 1688.

The End of the Second Volume.

Notes

• * 1.1

  They might have been brought from Egypt to Con∣stantinople, and from thence to Venice.

  It was one Nic. Baratier who undertook to fix them in the place where they still remain. He ask'd no other Recompence, but that he might have leave to set up a Priviledg'd Gaming-house between the two Columns; which was granted him.
• * 1.2

  Alluding to the Arms of the Empire.
• † 1.3

  See Vol. 1.
• * 1.4

  Near Forty thousand Livres Tournois.
• * 1.5

  The Great Coun∣cil was esta∣blish'd in the Year 1289. and all the Noblemen were register'd in that List.
• * 1.6

  They are cal∣led Barnabotes from the name of the place where they live, which is in a re∣mote corner of the City, where the Houses are to be let at low rates.
• * 1.7

  Gentilis Belli∣ni dy'd in the Year 1501, being 80 years old. And John dy'd 1512, aged 9•• Years.
• † 1.8

  They represent the Wars of A∣lexander III. with Frederick Barbarossa.
• * 1.9

  ROME call'd The Holy.
• * 1.10

  Monte Capi∣tolino, Palatino, Aventino, Celio, Esquilino, Vimi∣nale, Quirinale or Monte Ca∣vallo, Janiculo Pincio, Vatica∣no, Citorio, and Giordano.
• * 1.11

  Insula Tiberina olim excrevisse dicitur ex sege∣tibus Tarquinii superbi, in al∣v••um fluvii con∣jectis. J.J. Boiss. See Tit. Livius.
• † 1.12

  Grata Roma tam sapientibus quam insipien∣tibus: sine amore esse nullo modo potest. Bern. Sacca.
• * 1.13

  Statuas pri∣mum Thusci in∣venisse referun∣tur, quas am∣plexa posteritas paene parem po∣pulum Urbi de∣dit, quam Na∣tura procreavit. Cassiodor.
• * 1.14

  Lampridius tells us, that Helio∣gabalus made a collection of the Cobwebs in Rome, which weigh'd Ten thousand pound. From which pas∣sage some would draw Inferences to confirm the Computations of the pro∣digious num∣ber of the Inha∣bitants of that City; but this is a very lame way of reason∣ing.
• * 1.15

  Wernerus Roolwinck.
• * 1.16

  Pope Clement IV. gave a Hun∣dred Crowns in Marriage with his eldest Daugh∣ter, and only Ten Crowns to her that went into a Nunnery. Plat.
• * 1.17

  You must see at the Minerva that famous Statue of Christ embracing the Cross, by Michael Angelo.
• * 1.18

  The two Lyons of Porphyry which are under the Portico of the Pantheon, did heretofore serve to adorn the Front of the Temple of Isis. F. Nardin.
• * 1.19

  Poene comes individua.

  Lamb. Abbot of Hirtzaw.

  By the Tomb of Paul III. there are two Marble Statues, which they were forc'd to cover with a Drapery of Brass, to remove the occasion of Scandal that was given by two Spaniards, who were enamour'd of these Figures.
• * 1.20

  Huc mulieribus ingredi non li∣cet, nisi unico die Lunae post Pentecosten: quo vicissim viri ingredi prohi∣bentur. Qui se∣cus faxint, Ana∣thema sunto.
• * 1.21

  286 Pillars.
• * 1.22

  Saxum mirae magnitudinis. Petrar. lib. Ep. 2.
• * 1.23

  It was set up in the year 1586. It weighs with∣out reckoning the Base 956148 pounds. See J. J. Boissard.
• * 1.24

  It was belie∣ved that the God Vaticanus gave his Oracles or Vaticinia in this place.
• * 1.25

  Raphael was born on Good-Friday, 1483. and dy'd on ano∣ther Good-Fri∣day 37 years af∣ter.
• * 1.26

  See pag.
• † 1.27

  Platina writes, That Pope Con∣stantine, and the other Popes of that Age, (250 years after Leo I) wore only a plain Chamlet Garment. Concerning the Cardinals, see Vol. 2. It has been observ'd, that Albert Durer seldom made a Face without Whiskers. At Soest in the County of Mark, in Westphalia, there is a Picture of our Saviour's last Supper, on a Glass Window in a Church, in which a Gammon of Bacon is put for the Paschal Lamb. Since Images are the Books of the Ignorant, it is to be wish'd that they were made agreeable to the Truth.
• * 1.28

  The Parlia∣ment of Paris had promis'd Fifty thousand Crowns of Gold to any person that should ex∣hibit him alive or dead. The word in the French is repre∣senter.
• * 1.29

  See the History of Laocoon, in the second Book of the Aeneids. The Laocoon is of one piece of Marble; 'tis the Work of Agesander, Pylodorus, and Athenodorus, three Grecian Sculptors.
• † 1.30

  'Tis a Body without Head, Arms, or Legs: the Sculptor's Name is engraven on the Pedestal, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Apollonius the Son of Nestor, an Athenian.
• * 1.31

  There are very different Opini∣ons about the number of Books contain'd in this Library. And I am so little able to decide the •• Question, that I chuse rather to say nothing of it.
• * 1.32

  The Virgil and Terence of the Vatican were written a thou∣sand years ago; Spon.

  They shew'd us here a Volume of Letters of Henry VIII. to Ann of Bolen, which is in quarto, about the thickness of a Finger.
• * 1.33

  The Pope's triple Crown is kept in this Castle.
• * 1.34

  Asperius nihil est humili qui surgit in altum.
• * 1.35

  You may see the Letter which that Princess wrote on this Subject to the Chevalier de Terlon. It is inserted in the Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres, May 1686.
• † 1.36

  Not many months ago some German Jesuits told me, said the Queen, that they had seen Dragoons, Priapos suos immanes in os faeminarum intromittentes, ibique urinam fundentes. I chid 'em severely, added she, for suffering such horrible Insolency, but they only laugh'd at it.
• * 1.37

  She lives in the Palace Riari.
• * 1.38

  Baccho Caper omnibus aris Coeditur. All Bacchus's Altars reek with Blood of Goats. Of old humane Victims were offer'd to him; but after his Voyage to India, that Custom was abolish'd, and instead of Men, they sacrific'd only Asses and Goats.
• * 1.39

  It was made in the year 1360.
• † 1.40

  This Church was formerly the Temple of Remus, or of Remus and Ro∣mulus.
• * 1.41

  They affirm, That this is the Image mention'd by J. Damascen, which Christ sent to K. Abgarus. Eusebius recites the Let∣ters that past between Christ and Abgarus but says nothing of an Image. See Reiskii Exercitationes de imaginibus Christi.
• * 1.42

  S. Giacomo Scossacavalli.
• † 1.43

  On the Altar of the Presenta∣tion,
• ‖ 1.44

  On St. Ann's Altar.
• * 1.45

  Their finest Discourses are those which give the Hearers most di∣version. 'Tis true, every Order has a particular Way of Preaching: The Jesuites are esteem'd very good Declaimers, and their Gesture is not so extravagant as that of other Monks; but their Stile is the most fantasticall. The Capuchins are everlasting Thunderers, and preach nothing but Death and Destructi∣on, if it be not a day set apart for Buffoonry. Hell, Purgatory, and the Last Judgment are the Sub∣jects of almost all their Discourses. They pull their Beards, clap their Hands, and roar out hideously. I found t'other day a very plea∣sant Remark, in a Book that treats on this Subject; the Author of which assures us, that always when a Capuchin preaches the Dogs run out of the Church.
• * 1.46

  Urbs est jam tota Lupanar. Rome now is one vast Brothel. Bapt. Mantuan.
• † 1.47

  Roma quid est? quod te docuit praeposterus or∣do. Quid docuit? Jungas versa elementa, scies: Roma Amor est. Amor est qualis? Praeposte∣rus. Unde hoc? Roma mares—Noli dicere plura, Scio. These Verses can∣not be english'd without losing the Pun.
• * 1.48

  Or the broad Band under the Cornish.
• † 1.49

  Pronula,
• * 1.50

  C. Cestius. L. F. Pob. Epulo, Pr. Tr. Pl. VII. Vir Epulonum.
• † 1.51

  Blondus pre∣tends that this Sepulchre was common to the whole Society of the Septemviri Epulones. But he is the only person that I know who is of this Opinion.
• * 1.52

  It was inven∣•••••• by John de ••••••ge, a Native 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Guelderland, in the year 1450
• * 1.53

  There was a certain Taylor, call'd Pasquin, who liv'd near this place, and whose Shop was the usual Ren∣dezvous of Newsmongers. This Taylor was a man of Wit, of a jovial Hu∣mour, Satyrical, and a great lo∣ver of Jests; his Lampoons were usually call'd Pasquinades, and all the satyrical Libels about the Town were ascrib'd to him. To perswade the World that he was the Author of all those cutting Jests, they took care to affix them on the Statue that is here describ'd, which was at his Gate, and by degrees came to be known by the Name of Pasquin.
• † 1.54

  Ad angulum Arianae redis. Boiss.
• ‖ 1.55

  Vendit Alexander Claves, Altaria, Christum. Emerat ille prius, vendere jure potest. Sextus Tarquinius, Sextus Nero, Sextus & ipse, Semper sub Sextis, perdita Roma fuit. Conditur hoc Tumulo Lucretia nomine, sed re, Thais Pontificis Filia, Sponsa, Nurus.
• * 1.56

  This Thought is by some ascri∣bed to Pope A∣drian IV.
• * 1.57

  FRESCATI, anciently call'd Tusculum.
• * 1.58

  TIVOLI, of old Tibur. That which by the ig∣norant People is call'd Tivoli Vecchio, is the Villa Hadriani of the Ancients.
• * 1.59

  April 8. 1688.
• † 1.60

  In this River are found little white and smooth Flints, which are call'd the Hail-shot of Tivoli. Du Val.
• * 1.61

  Others pre∣tend that it was a Temple of Hercules.
• † 1.62

  He wrote a∣bout Fifty years ago.
• ‖ 1.63

  Alexander, Alexandr. Bapt. Fulgosus mentions a li∣ving Worm that was found in the middle of a Flint.
• * 1.64

  Lacus Albuneus.
• * 1.65

  They pretend that the Water of the Anieno is endow'd with a singular Vertue to whiten the Teeth, and Ivory. Schrad.
• * 1.66

  On the Base 'tis written, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Made by Agasias Son of Dositheus, the Ephesian.
• * 1.67

  He is usu∣ally call'd the Dying Mirmillo. There were three principal sorts of Gladiators; An∣dabates, Retiarii and Myrmillo∣nes. Galtruch.
• * 1.68

  The Town of Biedoblo. See Kircher's Mun∣dus Subterra∣neus.

  Aventinus in his Bavarian Annals speaks of several Persons in that Country, who as they were milking their Cows were suddenly transform'd into Statues of Salt, by the force of certain spirituous Steams, that broke forth in the place where they were, during a great Earthquake in the year 1348.
• * 1.69

  He was after∣wards made a Duke.
• * 1.70

  The Tiber was formerly call'd Rumon, Teren∣tus, and Albula. It receives forty Rivers before its arrival at Rome, Martian.
• * 1.71

  The Bridg of S. Angelo is 330 foot long; and that of Sixtus 300. Some Antiquaries affirm that it was not lawful to build Houses on the Banks of the Tiber, out of re∣spect to that sacred River. But this is an Error, which might be easily refuted. Clandian and seve∣ral other Authors have left posi∣tive accounts of the great number of noble Structures that were erect∣ed on the Banks of this River. The greatest Inundation happen'd under Clement VIII. in the Month of December 1598.
• * 1.72

  Paulus V. Pont. Max. aquam in agro Braccinensi saluberrimis •• fontibus colle∣ctam, Veteribus aquae Alseatinae ductibus restitutis, novisque additis, XXXV. ab Urbe Milliario duxit. An. Dom. 1612. Pontificatus sui septimo.
• * 1.73

  It is of Por∣phyry, four foot long, and three bread.
• † 1.74

  After the Ex∣amination of the Witnesses, they cry'd with a loud voice, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Mas nobis Dominus est. We have a Male Lord or Pope, Leo Calchond. —alta voice exclamabant Testiculos habet, dignus est Papali corona. —at nemo jam ad Pontificatum promo∣vetur, qui suae Virilitatis, non dederit antea satis efficax testimonium. I. I. Boissard. They proclaim'd aloud, says that Author, He has Stones, and is worthy of the Papal Crown. But, adds he, none are now advanc'd to the Pontifical dignity, who have not already given sufficient Proofs of their Virility.
• * 1.75

  Blondel ac∣knowledges Se∣venty one Greek and Latin, Cano∣niz'd Writers and others.
• * 1.76

  We must also consider the dif∣ference of Times. That was an Age of Ignorance, Stupidity and Confusion. But the Times are al∣ter'd; and men are not now so ea∣sily bubbl'd as formerly. We live in an Age that is wonderfully improv'd in Craftiness and Subtlety; how lit∣tle reason soever we have to boast of our Improve∣ments in Probi∣ty and Goodness.
• * 1.77

  See afterwards page.
• ‡ 1.78

  Joan of Arc, a poor Shepherdess of the Village of Damremy on the Meuse at the Age of 18. or 20. years, she was entrusted by Charles the VII. with the Com∣mand of part of his Forces. She reliev'd Orleans, beat the English, reconquer'd Champaign, and caus'd the King to be solemnly inaugurated. See Mezeray in the Life of Charles the VII. Ann. 1429.
• * 1.79

  See afterwards page
• † 1.80

  Benedict the IX. was made Pope at the Age of ten years; some say eleven; and others twelve; but however 'tis certain that he was a Child; all agree that he was one of the most monstrous and abominable Creatures that ever liv'd in the World. John the XII (alias XIII) was also chosen Pope before he was eighteen years old.
• * 1.81

  I might easily make a long Ca∣talogue of Wo∣men who have discharg'd all sorts of Offices, and have past for Men.
• ‡ 1.82

  Aristotle tells us that the Pro∣phetess of Ca∣ria in Asia mi∣nor, were beard∣ed Women.
• * 1.83

  If Chronological Difficulties a∣mount to a suffi∣cient Argument against the Ex∣istence of Pope Joan: By the same reason we may conclude that several o∣ther Popes are meer imaginary Names.
• * 1.84

  A Scottish Monk who died in the Abby of Fuld in Germa∣ny, about the 58. year of his Age, 1086. Bellarmin gives him the Chara∣cter of a diligent Writer.
• † 1.85

  A very learn'd Monk of the Ab∣by of Gem∣blours, who dy'd about the begin∣ning of the Twelfth Age.
• ‡ 1.86

  Several Au∣thors related this History be∣fore Marianus Scotus.
• * 1.87

  Anastasius, call'd the Bibli∣othecary, was a Roman Abbot, a Man of learn∣ing and great Merit: And Pope Joan's Cotemporary.
• * 1.88

  See the Begin∣ning of the next Letter.
• * 1.89

  These are all Historical Instances of un∣question'd Truth.
• * 1.90

  LEWIS, the Great Subverter of the World, Who spar'd no Crime to please his frantic Humor; A wicked Son, and an unnatural Father, An unjust Brother, and a Faithless Husband, A thankless Master, and a dangerous Friend; Reign'd without Counsel, Piety, or Justice, Fraud was his Sport, his Vertue was a Cheat, &c. Mezeray, concerning Lewis XI.
• * 1.91

  Prostat Liber palam ac publice hic (scilicet P••∣risiis) impressus, & hodie ut olim venalis: Taxa Camerae seu Cancellariae Apostolicae, quibus plus scelerum discas licet, quam in omnibus vitiorum Symmystis & Summariis. Claud. Esp. Ep. ••d Tit. c. 1.
• * 1.92

  Gaude Mater nostra Roma, quoniam aperi∣untur Cataractae Thesaurorum in terra, ut ad te confluant rivi & aggeres num∣morum in mag∣na copia. Lae∣tare super ini∣quitate filiorum hominum, quoniam in recompensationem tantorum malorum, datur tibi pre∣tium. Jocundare super adjutrice tua discordia, quia erupit de puteo inferna∣lis abyssi, ut accumulentur tibi multa pecuniarum praemia. Habes quod sem∣per sitisti, decanta canticum, quia per malitiam hominum▪ non per tuam Religionem orbem vicisti, Ad te trahit, non ipsorum devotio aut pura con∣scientia, sed scelerum multiplicium perpetratio, & litium decisio pretio com∣parata. Cour. Abbas Ursp. —Venalia nobis Templa, Sacerdotes, Altaria, Sacra, Coronae, Ignis, Thura, Preces, Coelum est venale, Deusque, B. Mant.
• † 1.93

  Mezeray in the Life of Charles the Bald.
• ‖ 1.94

  John, Bishop of the Five Churches in Pannonia, or Hungary.
• * 1.95

  Paul II.
• † 1.96

  Innocent VIII.
• ‖ 1.97

  So call'd from Plan. Lateranus, a Roman Lord, who had Gar∣dens in this place. He was kill'd by Nero's Order, after he had been nominated to the Consulship.
• ‡ 1.98

  These two Verses are engrav'd on the Portico; Dogmate Papali, datur simul Imperiali, Ut sim Cunctarum Mater, Caput Ecclesiarum.
• * 1.99

  I hear that it was since made a Hospital.
• ‡ 1.100

  There are two little Stairs, one on each side, by which those that please are per∣mitted to walk up to the Sancta Sanctorum.
• † 1.101

  Ann. 355.
• ‖ 1.102

  Dominick Fontana was the Architect of this Chapel We were inform'd, that it cost Seven hun∣dred thousand Roman Crowns
• * 1.103

  Castel-Gandol∣fo is 16 miles distant from Rome.
• * 1.104

  ALBANO.
• * 1.105

  Mittit praecipuos nernoralis Aricia Porros. Mart.
• * 1.106

  Ant. de St. Gallo begun it.
• * 1.107

  Tertius has Paulus struxit Farnesius aedes, Quarum forma oculos ponitur ante tuos. Aspicis immensos, Hospes, qui frontis honores, His similes dices, Roma nec Orbis habet.
• * 1.108

  St. Lawrence in Damaso.
• * 1.109

  It is the Work of Glycon a Grecian Sculptor. 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
• * 1.110

  At the foot of the Stair there is a Statue of a Captive King, which was found four or five hun∣dred years ago in the Place call'd Navona. Spon.
• * 1.111

  The Palace con∣taons Four thou∣sand Chambers.
• * 1.112

  Adrian I. and Martin V, two of the honestest Popes that ever fill'd the Chair.
• * 1.113

  There is not one of 'em that was made at Rome.
• * 1.114

  We were in∣form'd, that it weighs 956148 pounds.
• * 1.115

  This is ac∣knowledg'd by the Roman Ca∣tholicks.
• † 1.116

  That Pope was made a Cardi∣nal at the age of fourteen years. It is agreed by all Histori∣ans, that he was an impious Per∣son.
• * 1.117

  Mar. Freher and Salmasius saw these Copies: nor does Blondel disown 'em.
• * 1.118

  This they themselves con∣fess to be true.
• * 1.119

  Anastasius wrote the Lives of the Popes to Nicho∣las ••, who suc∣ceeded Benedict the Third.
• † 1.120

  M. Polonus flourish'd in the middle of the Thirteenth Age.
• ‖ 1.121

  Some Authors write, That he discharg'd the same Office un∣der Nicholas III.
• * 1.122

  Jupiter the Avenger.
• † 1.123

  'Tis not alto∣gether improba∣ble that Cybele her self was a multiply'd Dei∣ty: for she was worship'd under the several Names of Ops, Rhea, Vesta, Berecynthia, Dindymena, Tellus, Magna Pales, and Magna Mater. She was also call'd Natura rorum Parens.
• * 1.124

  Platina calls him the most pernicious and infamous of all the Popes that preceeded him. Some Writers relate, adds that Author, That he was slain in the act of Adultery.
• † 1.125

  M du Plessis Mornay.
• * 1.126

  Laonicus Chalcondylas an Athenian, who flourish'd about the middle of the Fifteenth Age.
• * 1.127

  It was the se∣cond Council or Conventicle held at that place, which Nicholas the First would never be per∣swaded to ap∣prove.
• † 1.128

  Platina com∣putes Seven years, Nine months, and Thirteen days.
• * 1.129

  Or Bartholo∣mew Caranza, call'd also Mi∣randa, Archbi∣shop of Toledo, in his Abridg∣ment of the Councils.
• * 1.130

  Werner Rool∣winck a West∣phalian.
• * 1.131

  David Blon∣del.
• * 1.132

  He means Salmasius.
• * 1.133

  Above all, the Chronology of the Bishops or Popes of Rome is a dreadful Labyrinth.
• * 1.134

  Innocent XI.
• * 1.135

  Opus Phidiae, Opus Praxitelis.
• * 1.136

  The old Foun∣dations appear.
• * 1.137

  Orat. 3. con∣tra Cat.
• † 1.138

  One for Oyl, two for Wine, and the fourth for Grain.
• * 1.139

  Primus, Secun∣dus, Tertius ab Urbe Lapis.
• † 1.140

  Columnam Milliariam pri∣mi ab urbe La∣pidis Indicem, ab Imperatore Vespasiano & Nerva restitu∣tam, de Ruinis suburbanis Viae Appiae in Capito∣lium transtulit.
• * 1.141

  Since the first Edition of this Book, I find that Holstenius is of the same Opi∣nion.
• * 1.142

  They pretend that the Water of this Spring has a milky taste.
• * 1.143

  So call'd from Tarpeia a Ro∣man Damsel slain in this place by the Sabines.
• ‡ 1.144

  Because of a Colossus that was near it. Hic ubi conspicui venerabilis Amphitheatri Erigitur Moles, Stagna Neronis erant. Mart.
• † 1.145

  Without rec∣koning the Ex∣cuneati, who stood in the Pas∣sages, to the number of Twenty thou∣sand.
• * 1.146

  It consists of 24 Stones, each of which contains eight Steps. Boiss.
• * 1.147

  This Column consists of Eight and twenty Stones. Idem.
• * 1.148

  Capo di Bovi.
• † 1.149

  D. Malatesta Strinati, of Ce∣sena.
• * 1.150

  〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Jesus Christus vincit, Jesus Christ overcame.
• * 1.151

  Ann. 1255.
• * 1.152

  'Tis well known that se∣veral of 'em are hir'd to play these Tricks.
• † 1.153

  The second City in Poictou.
• ‖ 1.154

  Call'd La Val∣lee.
• * 1.155

  Bourdin a Turner, and Keeper of a Bil∣liard Table on the Castle-ditch.
• * 1.156

  Towards the Wood of Bacca∣no.
• * 1.157

  VITERBO.
• * 1.158

  Schrader re∣lates, That he saw in this City an ancient In∣scription, which deserves to be inserted here: Marcum Tulli∣um Ciceronem ob egregias ejus virtutes, singu∣laresque animi dotes, per totum Orbem nostris Armis virtuteque perdomitum, Salvum & incolumem esse jubemus.
• * 1.159

  You may find a Latin Version of it in Barth. Picerna and Aug. Steuchus, which is said to be a Translation of the pretended Greek Original at the Vatican. It is also inser∣ted in Gratian's Decretals; but St. Antonin of Florence proves, that it is not mention'd in the old Decretals. And besides, N. Everard, L. Valla, R. Volaterranus, A. Alciat, J. Aventin, F. Vasquius, Cardinal Cusa, and Pope Pius II. himself, have solidly refuted this Fable. See also the Figmen∣tum Donationis Constantini, by the Jesuite Jos. Cantelius, in his Treatise of Metropolitan Cities.
• † 1.160

  Hieronymo Donato.
• ‖ 1.161

  Alexander VI.
• * 1.162

  Joannes An∣nius dum Glo∣riam quandam aucupari cona∣tur, cudit novum Metasthenem (pro Megastenem) Berosum, Manethonem & Philonem, quos commentariis auctos in publicum emisit, & pretiosis hisce veterum Autorum titulis, toti Mundo fere imposuit. —Megasteni historias attribuit, de qui∣bus nunquam cogitavit. Calvis Isag. Chron. c. 28.
• * 1.163

  Ann. 1576.
• * 1.164

  You may find an account an Orosius, of an Accident of the same nature that happen'd in Afric, in the year of the World 3825. He adds, That this Judgment was succeeded by so terrible a Plague that in Numidia alone there died Eight hundred thousand Men, and Thirty thousand Ro∣man Soldiers. Surius, Baronius, and all other Writers of Chronicles, have stuff'd their Works with such Relations.
• * 1.165

  MONTEFI∣ASCONE.
• * 1.166

  Quarterly in the first — a Lyon,— in the second — two Fesses.— The Shield is not blazon'd.
• † 1.167

  His Name, ac∣cording to the Tradition, was John de Fucris. This is the Name of one of the greatest Fa∣milies in Augs∣burg.
• * 1.168

  Or poinarded.
• * 1.169

  BOLSENA.
• † 1.170

  Or Vulsinium.
• * 1.171

  AQUAPEN∣DENTE.
• * 1.172

  Radicofani.
• ‡ 1.173

  It was first built by Deside∣rius the last King of the Lombards.
• * 1.174

  SIENA.
• * 1.175

  There is a Cor∣ridor that runs about the Body of the Church on the inside, a∣dorn'd with the Statues of the Popes. Among the rest, there is one smooth∣chin'd young Creature, said to be plac'd in the room of Pope Joan. I re∣member I saw these Statues, but I must con∣fess I did not examine 'em carefully. They are somewhat too high to be view'd without difficulty; and besides, I had not time to observe 'em. All the Authors I have yet seen, who deny the Story of the Popess, and mention this Statue, affirm unanimously, either that it is still remaining, or did really sub∣sist heretofore. Baronius says, that it was taken away, and broken to pieces. Launoy, who wrote in the year 1634, assures us, that it was to be seen at that time. Blondel acknowledges the same as to the main, neither does he deny the Story of the other Statue at Rome, mention'd by Theodore de Niem, which was erected in the place where Pope Joan was deliver'd, and after∣wards thrown into the Tiber by Sixtus the Fifth's Order; but he forgets to tell us what became of the first. Father Mabillon, who is the latest of all these Authors, not only confesses that there was such a Statue, but informs us that the Name of the Popess was express'd (Adpositum Statuae nomen fuit; Johannes VIII. Foemina de Anglia). But he adds, That under the Pontificat of Clement VIII, it was disfigur'd and transform'd into a Prophet Zachary, whose Name was written at the side of it.
• * 1.176

  Most of these Faces represent Persons who were then alive.
• * 1.177

  Peter Damian says, That Souls fly every Sunday out of the Lake of Purgatory, in the shape of Birds, to take the fresh Air.
• * 1.178

  Pongibon.
• * 1.179

  The Palace of the Signiory, and that of the Piccolomini built by Aeneas Sylvius, deserve a Traveller's Observation.
• * 1.180

  See the Nou∣velles de la Re∣publique des Lettres for De∣cember 1686. See also Pareus, and other Ana∣tomical Writers.
• * 1.181

  Or Calchariae. The German Journal for the year 1661 makes mention of a Turnep that exactly resem∣bled a Hand; and of a Mush∣room from which six half-body'd Human Figures issu'd out.
• * 1.182

  PISA.
• * 1.183

  By an Inscripti∣on engrav'd on a Pillar in the Baptistery, it appears, that the Church was finish'd Anno 1153. The Ba∣ptistery is 180 foot round. There was formerly a Pillar in the Baptistery, in which all the private Machinations against the State were discover'd, as in a Mirror.
• * 1.184

  The Stairs that lead to the top of the Tower consist of 193 Steps.
• * 1.185

  When they assisted Frederic the First, call'd Barbarossa, who took Jerusalem.
• * 1.186

  They wear a red Cross on a black Cloak, and a flamecolour'd Collar.
• † 1.187

  On the 6th of August, after he had gain'd the Battel of Mar∣ciano. The Knights must be of Noble Blood, and born in lawful Wedlock. They vow Conjugal Chastity. Their Cross is like to that of Malta. Every one of 'em is oblig'd to say a hundred Pater Nosters, and as many Ave Maria's daily, and on certain occasions they double the Dose.
• * 1.188

  LEGHORN.
• * 1.189

  Most of the Painting was done by Aug. Tasso, a Native of Bologna.
• * 1.190

  LUCCA.
• * 1.191

  Vexillifer, or Standard-bearer.
• * 1.192

  The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Martin.
• * 1.193

  The River is at present two or three miles di∣stant from Lucca.
• * 1.194

  Sirnam'd Coeur de Lion.
• * 1.195

  Calendrini, Burlamachi, Turretini, Micheli, and some others.
• * 1.196

  PISTOYA.
• * 1.197

  The Altar is co∣ver'd with Plates of Silver, and surrounded with Lamps of great value. Citta Pistoyese, chiare case, oscure Chiese. The City of Pistoya has light Houses and dark Churches.
• † 1.198

  About the Confines of Italy and Germany, on the Upper Rhine. See Maimb. of the Decadence of the Empire, l. 5.
• * 1.199

  FLORENCE the Fair.
• * 1.200

  Near the great Gate of this Palace there is a large Magnet, which was spoil'd by the Fire. Spon says, that it weighs 5000 pounds.
• * 1.201

  The four Statues of white Marble on the Bridge of the Trinity re∣present the four Seasons. They were made by Michael Angelo.
• † 1.202

  Obzelum Re∣ligionis, praeci∣puumque Justi∣tiae Studium.
• * 1.203

  The Characters on the Hem of his Gown are thought to be of the ancient He∣truscan Lan∣guage. It is a very fine Statue.
• * 1.204

  Here they us'd formerly to show an Iron Nail, one half of which, they pre∣tended, was chang'd to Gold; but they have left off exposing it, since 'twas discover'd that the Miracle con∣sisted wholly in the Sodering.
• * 1.205

  This Horse was presented to the last Great Duke by the late Duke Charles of Lor∣rain.
• † 1.206

  Built by Buontalenti.
• * 1.207

  This Diamond weighs a hun∣dred thirty and nine Carats and a half. 'Tis pity says Tavernier, that the Water or Lustre of it approaches to a Citron-colour.
• * 1.208

  On the Base, which is of the same piece of Marble with the Statue, these are written, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Made by Cleo∣menes Son of Apollodorus the Athenian.
• * 1.209

  See before Letter XXIII, & XXV.
• * 1.210

  G. Acutius an Englishman, General of the Pisan Forces.
• * 1.211

  Near the Church of the Trinity there is a fair Column of Por∣phyry, which supports a Statue of Justice greater than the Life. 'Tis said, that this Column was formerly in the Pantheon, and that it was given by the Pope to Cosmo I, Gal. Guald. Prior. There is a Proverb at Florence, which says, That Justice stands so high that none can reach it.
• * 1.212

  'Tis said, that each Pillow cost Sixty thousand Crowns.
• * 1.213

  It is Fourscore Brasses or Fa∣thom in length; and Twenty in breadth. The Fathom of Florence is equal to two Roman Feet; and the Ro∣man Foot is shorter by six Lines than the English. See the Instructions to a Traveller at the end of this Volume. In this Library there is a Manuscript Virgil, of the Age of Theodosius. There is also a large Greek Manuscript, con∣taining the Chyrurgery of the Ancients, of Hippocrates, Galen, Asclepiades, Bithynus, Apollonius, Archigenes, Nymphodorus, Heliodorus, Diocles, Rufus Ephesius, and Apollodorus Citiensis; with the manner of curing Dislocations describ'd in Figures painted on Vellum. This is a great Treasure, being the only Work of this nature now known to be extant. Spon.
• * 1.214

  In the Hospital ad Scalas there is the Tomb and Epitaph of a hu∣man Monster who had two Heads and four Hands on one Body. This dou∣ble man (nam'd Peter and Paul) had different Affections. One of the Heads wept, while the other laugh'd; and slept while his Companion was awake. This Monster liv'd Twenty years and Twenty days. Schrader.
• * 1.215

  On the third of July 1642, this little Town was destroy'd by an Earthquake. Schrad.
• † 1.216

  Fiorenzola was built by the Florentins, An. 1332. Villani writes, That they laid the Foundations of it under the Ascendant of the Sign Leo, that it might become a potent and durable City: But he adds, That these Precautions were very unsuccessful. Some think this is the Fidentia of the Ancients.
• * 1.217

  BOLOGNA the Fat.
• * 1.218

  On the Via Aemilia.
• * 1.219

  The Archbishop has the Title of a Prince of the Empire.
• * 1.220

  Pope Nicholas Ann. 1278.
• † 1.221

  Bolognesi sen∣sa Fisco & Cita∣della.
• * 1.222

  In one of the Halls of the U∣niversity there is a Monument erected to the honour of Ga∣briel Tagliacoz∣zo, an expert Surgeon, who made artificial Noses, Ears, and Lips, of live Flesh. Huguetan.
• * 1.223

  Bonifacio VIII. P. M. ob eximia erga se merita S. P. Q. B. A. M. CCC. I.
• * 1.224

  Ulysses.
• * 1.225

  M. Lotier a Ban∣ker has an ex∣cellent Cabinet of Medals. He has two Otho's of Brass, of uncontroverted Antiquity. They are only ignorant Persons, who pretend that there are no ancient Otho's. Spon.
• * 1.226

  Charles V. had been crown'd be∣fore at Aix la Chapelle, on the 22d of October 1520. He was crown'd King of Lombardy at Bologna.
• † 1.227

  Perhaps this was Count Ugo∣lin of Pisa, one of the Heads of the Guelphs, whose Story and miserable End is related by J. Villani, l. 7. c. 120, 127.
• * 1.228

  The Neptune and other Fi∣gures in Brass were made by John of Bologna. Antonio Lupi was the Archi∣tect, and Lau∣reci the Designer of this Structure. L'Ascoso writes, That the Fountain cost Seventy thousand Crowns of Gold.
• * 1.229

  Katherin Vi∣gri.
• * 1.230

  At Mount la Guardia. They are making a cover'd way to go in procession from the City to that Mountain; and the Work is already far ad∣vanc'd.
• * 1.231

  Call'd also Enzelin.
• † 1.232

  — Cum tan∣tum Auri pro redimendo Filio polliceretur, quantum ad moenia Bononiae circulo aureo cingenda suffi∣ceret.
• ‖ 1.233

  This Tower was erected by Gerard Asinelli, An. 1109, it is 376 foot high. The Garisenda was built by Otho, and Philip Garisendi, Ann. 1110. Its heighth amounts to 130, and its inclination to 9 feet. Gal. Guald.
• * 1.234

  I have read in an English Re∣lation of the A∣merican Islands, that there are great shining Flies in Barba∣does, which might serve for Candles: and that the Indians usually tye 'em to their Arms and Legs, when they travel in the night.
• * 1.235

  They are call'd Lucciole.
• † 1.236

  This Fort has four Bastions, which bear the names of St. Ma∣ry, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Petronius.
• * 1.237

  MODENA▪
• * 1.238

  REGIO.
• * 1.239

  Huguetan says there are two famous Pictures in it, one by Cor∣regio, and the other by Guido: but he forgets to tell us what they are.
• † 1.240

  Or Images of our Lady.
• * 1.241

  At St. John's and St. Antho∣ny's.
• * 1.242

  PLACENZA.
• * 1.243

  There are some Pictures by Ca∣rache in the Cathedral; and an Image of our Lady by Ra∣phael, at St. Sixtus's. Hug.
• * 1.244

  CREMONA.
• * 1.245

  Gabrino Fon∣dulio Tyrant of Cremona. C. Tor.
• * 1.246

  BOZZOLO.
• * 1.247

  MANTUA.
• * 1.248

  Which comes from the Lake of Guarda.
• * 1.249

  The Marquisat of Mantua was ad∣vanc'd to the Title of a Dutchy by Charles V, An. 1530.
• * 1.250

  The 18th of July, 1630.
• * 1.251

  See Mezeray in the Life of Charlemain.
• * 1.252

  This Order was instituted An. 1608, by Vincent Gonza∣ga, at the mar∣riage of his Son with Margaret of Savoy. He created Twenty Companions of the Order, and put this Devise about the Collar, Nihil isto Triste recepto.
• * 1.253

  BRESSA.
• * 1.254

  Justiciae with a c.
• * 1.255

  Some derive the word Ori∣flame from Flammula, a Banner or Stan∣dard, and Au∣rea, Golden, be∣cause it was fa∣sten'd to the end of a gilt Lance. Others think it was so call'd be∣cause it was made of a sort of Gold and Flame-colour'd Stuff. It was adorn'd with green Tassels. Du Cange.
• † 1.256

  The Labarum was a purple Banner, which was never made use of, but when the Emperor commanded the Army in person. It was en∣rich'd with Fringes of Gold, and Jewels. Constantine order'd this Cypher to be written on it, which consists of the first Letters of the Name of Christ,
• * 1.257

  BERGAMO.
• * 1.258

  Ambrose Cale∣pin lies interr'd at the Austin's He was born at Calepio a Vil∣lage near Ber∣gamo.
• * 1.259

  Angli in op∣pugnatione Ce∣nomanorum primum Aeneis Tormentis utun∣tur, & Urbe po∣tiuntur, An. 1425. Pol. Virg.
• * 1.260

  Henry VIII. King of England us'd to bless Gold Rings, which, he pretended, cur'd the Cramp. But his Son Edward slighted this kind of Talisman. William III, now reigning, has also rejected and abolish'd the superstitious Custom observ'd by the Kings his Predecessors since Edward the Confessor, to touch those who were troubl'd with Scrophulous Tumors, or the King's Evil.
• * 1.261

  Navilio della Marresana.
• * 1.262

  MILAN the Great.
• * 1.263

  An. 1162. Fre∣deric I, call'd Barbarossa, rac'd it, and sow'd it with Salt, spa∣ring only some Churches.
• † 1.264

  The Country abounds with good Springs and Rivulets. Besides, the Ca∣nal brought from the Adda fills the Ditch of she inward En∣closure of the City wiih running Water. The Fortifications, or outward En∣closure, were erected since the destruction of the City by Barbarossa. Galeazzo Visconti, Father of Azzo, attempted to make a navigable Canal between Mi∣lan and Pavia, but the execution of that Design was prevented by the death of the Undertaker. The beginning of that Canal is still to be seen near the Gate of Pavia.
• * 1.265

  Circa annum Mundi 4809. Mediolana Civi∣tas conditur, sic dicta quod ibi apparuit Sus, quae pro media parte portabat Lanam pro pilis, Wern. Roolwinck. Et quae lanigera de Sue nomen habet. Sidon. Apoll.
• † 1.266

  There are two descriptions of this Cabinet, one in Latin, by Paulus Maria Tarzago; and the other in Ita∣lian, by Pi. Fran. Scarabelli.
• * 1.267

  Montaign pre∣tends that the Remora is a Shell-fish.
• * 1.268

  The Foundations of it were laid on the 13th of June, 1386, by John Galeas Visconti, first Duke of Milan. There was for∣merly in the same place a Church call'd St. Mary major, it stands in the Center of the City.
• * 1.269

  Templi hujus frontierigendae, at{que} ornandae, CCXXX. Au∣reorum millia legavit, Jo. Pe∣trus Carcanus Mediol. &c.
• * 1.270

  October 16. 1648, above an hundred thou∣sand Strangers came to Milan, to see the Cere∣mony: and ma∣ny Persons were stifi'd in the Croud. Morigi.
• † 1.271

  This Statue was made by one Jacobinus, who, in the In∣scription under it is said to ex∣ceed Praxiteles.

  Praestantis Imaginis Author, De Tradate fuit Jacobinus in arte profundus, Non Praxitele minor sed major farier ausim.

  The last Verse limps. Near this Statue is that of Pius IV.
• ‖ 1.272

  This Rod or Wand is said to be entire at St. John de Lateran. Besides this Piece, there is another at Florence, as I intimated before; and Baronius relates, after Glaber, that there was a third found at Sens, Anno 1008. Rabbi Abarbinel, after a long dissertation, and many trifling Conjectures concerning this Wand, concludes, that Moses carried it to the Mountain where he dy'd, and that it was afterwards plac'd in his Tomb. But, after all, it was never known what became either of this or of the Ark.
• ‡ 1.273

  'Tis the Opinion of some Authors, That Theodosius the Great gave this Nail to St. Ambrose; others say, that Saint went to look for it in the Shop of a certain Ironmonger at Rome, call'd Paolino, where he was warn'd in a Dream that he should find it.
• * 1.274

  This Pave∣ment is not yet finish'd. The Charge of it will amount to Threescore and six thousand Two hundred and ninety Crowns, without reckoning that of the Quire, which has already cost Five thousand Two hundred and fifty. Morigi.
• * 1.275

  And therefore call'd Strada Marina.
• * 1.276

  Ph. Vannema∣chero, and Ch. Torre, affirm, That this Library contains Fourteen thousand Manuscripts; but mention not the number of the printed Books. It was much augmented by the addition of Vincent Pinelli's Library, R. Lassels. Rufinus's Version of Josephus is one of the oldest Manuscripts in this Library. G. Burnet. Fabio Mangoni built it. It contains several Apartments. The great Hall is 75 foot long, and 30 broad. It could not be made larger, because of the Churches and Houses that surround it. Besides the Books and Pictures, 'tis enrich'd with several Collections of very fair Medals, and with rare and curious Pieces of antique Sculpture and Architecture, with others moulded on the Originals. Boschi wrote a Treatise De Origine & Statu Bibliothecae Ambrosianae C. Torre.
• * 1.277

  This Structure was founded by Charles Bor∣romeo, and built by Joseph Mela. A double Portico 176 foot and 3 inches long, and 16 foot 10 inches and a half broad, goes round the great square Court on the inside. The first Order is Doric, and the second Ionic. Over the great Portal stands Piety, having on her Breast the Sun, who is the Father of Light; and on the other side Wisdom, with swel∣ling Breasts full of Provision for her Children. C. Torre.
• † 1.278

  Begun 1489, by Duke Lewis Sforza, call'd the Moor, and fi∣nish'd by Lewis XII, 1507. Bra∣mante was the Architect of this Structure.
• * 1.279

  Tristan Caleo suspects that it is a Memorial of some extraordi∣nary Event, like the Goose in the Capitol. See the Exercitationes Sacrae of Georg. Maebius, de Ae∣neo Serpente.
• * 1.280

  II Kings 18.4.
• * 1.281

  This City has been 40 times besieg'd, and 22 times taken. Du Val.
• ‡ 1.282

  Lucretius extols an Eccho that answer'd seven times:

  Sex etiam septem loca vidi reddere voces Unam cum jaceres — l. 4.
• † 1.283

  In the Plain of Barco.
• ‖ 1.284

  The same who founded the Ca∣thedral of Mi∣lan. All the Pictures in the Chapel of St. Mi∣chael were done by P. Perugini, Raphael's Master. In the Vestry there is a Christ crown'd with Thorns, by Passignani, which is much esteem'd. The Pictures in the Quire were made by Daniel Crespi.
• * 1.285

  PAVIA.
• * 1.286

  Founded by Charlemain, and re-establish'd by Charles IV. Boetius was a Native of Pa∣via.
• * 1.287

  In the Life of Pope Gregory the Second. There is a kind of Mast of a Ship to be seen in the Cathedral, which is thought by the People to be Or∣lando furioso's Spear.
• * 1.288

  B. Sac▪ l. 10. c. 3.
• * 1.289

  The Tesin is so rapid, that in less than three hours, with one Rower, we sail'd above Thirty miles, says D. Burnet.
• * 1.290

  In the year 472.
• * 1.291

  Voghera.
• * 1.292

  Novi.
• * 1.293

  GENOA the Proud.
• * 1.294

  From the Year 1494 to 1528, the State of Genoa was sub∣ject to above twelve kinds of Government.
• * 1.295

  Rubens com∣pos'd a Treatise of the Palaces, of Genoa.
• * 1.296

  The Doge ought to be Fifty years old compleat.
• * 1.297

  So they call the Sacrament
• † 1.298

  Of the Family Lomellino.
• * 1.299

  In the Cathe∣dral there is a great Dish made of one single Emerald, in which, if you will believe the common Tradi∣tion, the Pas∣chal Lamb was serv'd up when Christ eat the Passover with his Disciples. Venerable Beda says, the Lamb was brought in a Silver Dish; but Madam St. Bridget thought fit to substitute one of Ivory; and why might not you or I with as much reason venture to say, that it was an Earthen Dish. Du Val thinks this Emerald Dish was one of the Presents which the Queen of Sheba made to Solomon.
• * 1.300

  The Ashes of this Saint are kept in the Ca∣thedral, in a Shrine supported by four fine Co∣lumns of Por∣phyry, which were brought from Smyrna Ann. 1098. Gal. Guald. Prior.
• * 1.301

  ALEXAN∣DRIA.
• * 1.302

  CAZAL
• * 1.303

  The Po.
• * 1.304

  TURIN.
• * 1.305

  There is the old and new Palace.
• * 1.306

  Of Guarini's Architecture.
• * 1.307

  Mr. Reiskius has written a Dissertation de Imaginibus Chri∣sti, where you may find many curious Remarks on this Relick: He demonstrates, that neither this nor several others were ever heard of, till Venerable Beda publish'd his vain Imaginations in his Treatise de locis Sanctis. This Reverend English Priest died about the middle of the Eighth Age.
• (a) 1.308

  Addormen∣tati.
• (b) 1.309

  Ardenti.
• (c) 1.310

  Immobili.
• (d) 1.311

  Fantastici & Humoristi.
• (e) 1.312

  Ostinati.
• (f) 1.313

  Intronati.
• (g) 1.314

  Insensati.
• (h) 1.315

  Innominati.
• (i) 1.316

  Otiosi.
• (k) 1.317

  Nascosti.
• (l) 1.318

  Caliginati.
• (m) 1.319

  Invaghiti.
• (n) 1.320

  Adagiati.
• (o) 1.321

  Catenati.
• * 1.322

  Leand. Alberti says, he saw at Parma four Cheeses which weigh'd Five hundred pounds each.
• * 1.323

  The Tarantula had its Name from the Terri∣tory of Taren∣tum, where there is abun∣dance of those Animals. See the Treatise which Sanguer∣dius wrote con∣cerning 'em.
• * 1.324

  Alex. ab Alexandr. assures us, that he was an Eye-witness of the same; and relates several curious Instances on this occasion. Dier. Ge∣neal. l. 2. c 17.
• * 1.325

  1 Sam. 16.23.
• * 1.326

  Albert. Krant∣sius writes, that Henry IV King of Denmark hearing that a certain Musician boasted that he could either vex or please those who heard his Music, and even lay 'em asleep, or put 'em into a fury, was desi∣rous to try the Experiment in his own Person; which succeeded so effectually, that the King in the heighth of his Fury kill'd several of his Courtiers with his Fists. Theophrastus and A. Gellius affirm, That Music charms and asswages the Pains of the Gout.
• * 1.327

  The greatest Palm-tree in Rome is in the Cloister of St. Peter ad Vin∣cula.
• * 1.328

  In M. Badoueri's Garden at Ve∣rona there are Cypress-trees a hundred foot high, and two hundred years old. The Citrons of Florence, call'd Cedrats, are the most excellent of all these kinds of Fruit. Silk-worms were brought to Europe from Japan and China.
• * 1.329

  Mark 2.17.
• * 1.330

  The Babylonians, began their natural Day at Sunrising, and the Jews at Sunsetting, as the Italians do at present. The Inha∣bitants of the Province of Um∣bria, with Ptolomy, and some others in former times, reckon'd the beginning of the Day at Noon, and the Egyptians at Midnight, as we do. The ancient Romans did also begin the Day at Midnight, but their Hours were unequal.
• * 1.331

  Veillana.
• * 1.332

  SUSA.
• * 1.333

  Novalesa. Mount Cenis.
• * 1.334

  CHAMBERY.
• * 1.335

  S. JOHN DE MAURIENNE.
• * 1.336

  MONTME∣LIAN.
• * 1.337

  AIX.
• * 1.338

  GENEVA.
• * 1.339

  The Republic of Geneva enter'd into a perpetual League with that of Bern, An. 1536, which has been fre∣quently renew'd since. J. Simler.
• * 1.340

  In the year 1602.
• * 1.341

  Decemb. 12/22.
• † 1.342

  Belle-rive.
• * 1.343

  After Polybus. Tarcagno is guilty of the same Mistake; and a thousand other Authors besides, who bor∣row'd it from that ancient Historian.
• * 1.344

  The pound of Geneva contains Eighteen Oun∣ces.

  The Lake is well stock'd with ex∣cellent Fish, but their numbers do sensibly de∣crease, and one sort is quite lost, it is not only to be ascrib'd to the ravenousness of the Pikes that abound in it, but to another sort of Fish, that they call Mou∣tails, which were never taken in the Lake till within these six years last past; they are in the Lake of Neufchastel, and some other Lakes of Switzer∣land, and 'tis likely that by some convcyance under ground they may have come into Channels that fall into this Lake. G. Burnet.
• * 1.345

  Since the first Edition of this Book Mr. Calen∣drin is made Professor of Di∣vinity, in Mr. Mestrezat's place.
• † 1.346

  St. Peter's Church.
• * 1.347

  Ephes 5.8. Rom. 11.13.
• * 1.348

  Anagram. Respublica Ge∣nevensis. Gens sub Coelis vere pia.
• * 1.349

  Rubbati, Franconi, Mal∣content, Butini, Bartolone, Car∣nelli, Servini, Mirollio, Lambercier, Pelissari, Martini, &c.
• † 1.350

  If there is any credit to be gi∣ven to the little Book call'd Sca∣ligerana; the Savoyard Tongue was us'd in the Council in Jos. Scaliger's time; and all Men were prohi∣bited, under pain of being fin'd, to speak any other.
• * 1.351

  Morges.
• * 1.352

  LAUSANNE.
• * 1.353

  Morat.
• * 1.354

  On the 20th of July 1476, we observ'd the fol∣lowing Inscription: D. O. M. Caroli inclyti & fortissimi Ducis Burgundiae Exercitus Muratrum obsidens ab Helvetiis caesus hoc sui monumentum reli∣quit. A. 1476.
• * 1.355

  BERN.
• * 1.356

  Only married Persons are ad∣mitted into the Council. G. Burnet.
• * 1.357

  Others say, 1191.

  On the 6th of March 1352, this City enter'd into the Swiss Confederacy. J. Simler.
• † 1.358

  William Tell.
• ‖ 1.359

  An. 1307, un∣der the Empire of Albert I.
• * 1.360

  I'm inform'd this Inscription was remov'd in October 1692, at the desire of the French Am∣bassador.
• * 1.361

  John Vetter, Stephen Boltz∣horst, Francis Ulchi, and Hen. Steniker.
• † 1.362

  John Jetzer.
• ‖ 1.363

  Two Bishops and the Pro∣vincial of the Jacobins.
• * 1.364

  An. 1509.
• * 1.365

  SOLOTURN. The People of So∣loturn are very superstitious; they had for∣merly an Image of Christ on the Cross, habited like a Switzer.
• ‡ 1.366

  In Celtis nihil est Soloduro antiquius, unis Exceptis Treviris, quarum Ego dicta soror.

  Simler pretends that Soloturn was built by Ninus.
• † 1.367

  Dr. Burnet assures us, that in Sept. 1685 the Fortificati∣ons of this place had already cost the Inhabitants above Two mil∣lions.
• * 1.368

  BASIL. This City was united to the Cantons 1327. J. Simler.
• * 1.369

  In that which belongs to Mr. Sebastian Fesch there are many rare Pictures, and several ve∣ry singular Me∣dals, that are not to be met with any where else. Ch. Patin. The Cabinet of Erasmus and Amersback be∣longs to the University, where there are also Twenty Original Pieces by Hol∣ben, among which the dead Christ is particularly esteem'd, and might have been sold for a Thousand Ducats. There are four excellent Series's of Medals, Greek, Consulary, and Gold and Brass Imperials; the Gold Medal of Pho∣tina, Trajan's Wife, is one of the most rare. The following Epigram is under a Picture of Erasmus, that represents half the Body:

  Ingens ingentem quem personat Orbis Erasmum, Hic tibi dimidium picta Tabella refert. At cur non totum? Mirari desine Lector; Integra nam totum Terra nec ipsa capit.

  Among the Manuscripts in the Library there is a very rare Virgil, and an Alcoran written on China Paper. Ch Patin.
• * 1.370

  HUNNIN∣GHEN.
• * 1.371

  FRIBURG in Brisgaw.
• * 1.372

  BRISACK.
• * 1.373

  SCHELESTAT formerly an Im∣perial City.
• * 1.374

  STRASBURG, formerly an Im∣perial City.
• * 1.375

  Its Heighth amounts to Five hundred seventy and four feet. It was finish'd in the year 1449. Mirabile opus caput inter nubila condit. Aen. Sylv. The Basso relievo's on the tops of the great Pillars of the Church are not so visible, but they are surprizing, for this being a Fa∣bric of Three or Four hundred years old, it is very strange to see such repre∣sentations as are there. There is a Procession represented, in which a Hog car∣rieth the Pot with the Holy Water, and Asses and Hogs in Priestly Vestments follow to make up the Procession; there is also an Ass standing before an Altar as if he were going to consecrate, and one carrieth a Case with Relicks, in which one seeth a Fox, and the Trains of all that go in this Procession are car∣ried up by Monkeys. Dr. Burnet, from Mr. Ablancourt.
• * 1.376

  Fort-Lewis.
• * 1.377

  PHILIPSBURG
• * 1.378

  Ca•••••• Uden∣b••••••.
• * 1.379

  Since the first Edition of this Book, this place is faln again into the hands of the French.
• * 1.380

  SPIRE, an Imperial Ci∣ty.
• † 1.381

  This Judge must always be a Roman Ca∣tholic, and has 4000 Crowns Salary. Of the two Presidents, one is a Roman Catholic, and the other a Protestant; and of the Fifteen Assistants there are only Seven Protestants, the rest being Roman-Catholicks. The Presidents have 2000 Crowns each, and every Assistant 1000. The Chamber never meddles with the Business of the War. 'Tis remarkable that the contending Parties can never discover the Names of those who state the Case, either before or after it is decided. They who appeal to the Empe∣ror are oblig'd to consign a certain Sum, which, if they receive a favourable Sentence, is restor'd to 'em; if otherwise, they lose it. Heiss.
• ‖ 1.382

  This Council is al••o compos'd of Members of both Religions.
• * 1.383

  A little after the first Edition of this Book Spire and Worms were plunder'd by the French Troops, without the least regard to the Imperial Chamber.
• * 1.384

  JULIERS.
• * 1.385

  AIX LA CHA∣PELLE, an Im∣perial City; 'tis also call'd Royal, being perhaps honour'd with that Title, because according to the Tenor of the Golden Bull, the King of the Romans ought to receive his first Crown here. Heiss.
• * 1.386

  This City is double: the in∣ward City call'd Carolina is en∣clos'd with its ancient Walls, Blond.
• † 1.387

  The old Tower join'd to the Town-house on the East side, does still retain the name of Granus or Gra∣nius. Idem.
• ‖ 1.388

  At the age of 72 years, in the Fourteenth year of his Empire, the Forty eighth of his Reign, and of Christ 814.
• * 1.389

  Aix sends some Relicks, a book of the Gospels written in Let∣ters of Gold and one of Charles the Great's Swords, with the Brit I have already given an account of the Ornament that are kept at Nu∣remburg.
• * 1.390

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 Monulsus. and St. Godulrus Bishops of Liege.
• * 1.391

  MASTREICHT.
• † 1.392

  The present King of En∣gland.
• * 1.393

  LIEGE.
• * 1.394

  The Bishop's Seat was formerly at Tongres, from whence it was transferr'd to Mastreicht, and from thence to Liege. Heiss.
• * 1.395

  Coal is also found in France, in some parts of Auvergne, and in Forests.
• * 1.396

  Tilmont, or Tirlemont.
• * 1.397

  LOVAIN, the Metropolitan See of Brabant. One of the Laws of the Universi∣ty ordains, that Whoremongers should be Behea∣ded with a Wooden Saw, and Pimps, or those that are accessory to the commit∣ting of Whoredom, banish'd. It was formerly the Privilege of the Dean of the Canons to receive the Oath from the Duke of Brabant, at his accession to the Soveraignty. The Well in the Castle is remarkable for its depth, and an Eccho that resounds in it. There is a Tower in the City call'd Verloren Kost, or Charge Lost, because the People of Lovain intended to have built Seven other Towers like to this, but were prevented by some Accidents, so that they erected only one. Voyage to Flanders by a nameless Author. There are some Vineyards about Lovain.
• * 1.398

  See E. Pasquier, Part 2, Book 19, Letter 6.
• * 1.399

  Pinnis quibus in mari utuntur, humi quoque vice pedum Ser∣punt. Plin.
• * 1.400

  BRUSSELS.
• * 1.401

  On one side there are some neglected Forti∣fications, which were never lin'd.
• * 1.402

  The Marquess of Castanaga, 1688. Since the first Edition of this Book the Elector of Bava∣ria was made perpetual Go∣vernour, 1691.
• † 1.403

  The sum of which is, that one of the Ene∣my's Ships being blown up by a Shot, that Can∣non, together with a young Maid, were car∣ried thro' the Air, and fell in the Palace, and that the Gover∣ness of the Ne∣therlands or∣der'd the Maid to be educated.
• * 1.404

  After he had resign'd his Power he retir'd to this House, and stay'd there five or six months.
• † 1.405

  After the Duke of Alva.
• * 1.406

  These Dogs are not extraordi∣narily big.
• † 1.407

  I believe M. is guilty of a Mi∣stake, which doubtless proceeded from his misunderstanding the following Passage in Dionys. Halic. Mihi sane tria magnificentissima videntur, ex quibus maxime apparet magnitudo Romani Imperii; Aquaeductus, viae Stratae & Cloacae, reputanti non solum utilitatem operum, verum etiam impensarum magnitudinem, quam vel hinc licet conjicere, quod ut affirmat C. Aquilius, neglectas aliquando Cloacas, & non transmittentes aquas, Censores mille talentis purgandas locaverint. According to F. Nardin's Calculation, a Thousand Talents are equivalent to Six hundred thousand Crowns of Gold.
• * 1.408

  M. confines the meaning of the Phrase to homi∣num stercora, or Human Excre∣ments; but this is a second Er∣ror, for the Cloaca maxima was the Com∣mon-shore or Sink of all man∣ner of Filth and Nastiness, accor∣ding to Livy, Receptaculum omnium purga∣mentorum Ur∣bis.
• * 1.409

  MECHLIN.
• * 1.410

  ANTWERP, formerly a Hans Town.
• * 1.411

  Ferdinando Alvarez a Tole∣do, Albae Duci, Phil II. Hisp. Regis apud Bel∣gas praefecto, quod extincta seditione, Rebellibus pulsis, Religione procurata, Justitia culta, Provinciis Pa∣bem firmaverit. Regis Optimi Ministro fidelissimo positum.
• * 1.412

  Omnimodae Merces, Artes priscaeque, novaeque. Et quae sunt aliis singula cuncta mihi. Scal.
• * 1.413

  Tis call'd the Osterlings House.
• † 1.414

  Bourses in French.
• * 1.415

  420 foot high. There are Three and thirty Bells in the Tower.
• * 1.416

  In French Gan signifies a Glove, and Ghent is al∣so call'd Gant. In the year 1427 the Count of Nassaw Baron de Diestein, the Marquess of Bergopzom, and the Baron of Wesemale, caus'd the Circuit of several great Cities to be measur'd for a Wager: and they found (as it appears by an au∣thentic Record still extant) that the Circumference of Lovain exceeds that of Ghent, by three Rods or sixty Feet. Voyage to Flanders.
• * 1.417

  The Prelates of Ghent presen∣ted him with a Bible as soon as he was born, with these words written on it, Study this Book. Act. Her. de Ch. V.
• * 1.418

  In the Church of the Nuns, call'd Beguines, there is a mira∣culous Crucifix, with an open Mouth. It hap∣pen'd one day, during the time of the Carnaval, that all the Sisterhood went abroad to take their Pleasure, leaving only one of their Companions at home, who was per∣haps as great a lover of the Sport as any of the rest, and unable to bear so great an Affront, went to make her Complaint to the Crucifix, from which she receiv'd the following Answer; Grieve not, my Daughter, to morrow thou shalt rejoice with me at my eternal Wedding. This Prophecy was en∣tirely accomplish'd; for the Beguin dy'd the next day, and the Crucifix re∣main'd ever afterwards with its Mouth open.
• * 1.419

  BRUGES, formerly a Hans Town.
• * 1.420

  In this City a Traveller ought to visit the Town-house, the Water-house, Episcopal Palace, Cathedral, great Market-place, the Colleges of the four Nations of Flanders, the Church of the Jesuits, and several magnifi∣cent Tombs in the Collegiate Church of Our Lady. In the Cathedral, at the side of the Quire, they shew the place where Charles the Good, Count of Flan∣ders, was assassinated by some Persons, whom he had compell'd to open their Magazines in a time of Famine. Voyage to Flanders.
• * 1.421

  At first he created only 25 Knights, three years after he added 6 more; Charles V. aug∣mented the number to 51; but Philip II, & III. created as many as they pleas'd, without observing any certain number.
• † 1.422

  Some say 1429.
• ‡ 1.423

  He was thrice marry'd, first, with Michelle of France, Fifth Daughter of Charles VI; secondly, with Bonne of Artois, Sister of the Count d'Eu; and thirdly, with Isabel of Portugal.
• * 1.424

  Others write, That the Girl was red-haird, and that one day when the Duke went to visit her he found a Lock of her Hair on her Toilette, which he gather'd up very carefully, and preserv'd as a precious Treasure. They add, That his Courtiers having ta∣ken the liberty to break some Jests on this occasion, the fond Prince took a Resolution to in∣stitute an Order of Knighthood by the Title of the Golden Fleece, in honour to the Lock of red Hair. Davity says, That se∣veral Authors are of Opinion, that this Order took its origi∣nal from the Religious Society call'd the Thebean Order.
• * 1.425

  Judges 6. 37, &c.
• * 1.426

  St. Andrew's Cross.
• † 1.427

  Oliver de la Marche had the honour to serve Philip the Good, and during the space of Fifty years, had several considerable Employments in the House of Burgundy.
• ‖ 1.428

  Febr. 17. 1453.
• * 1.429

  OSTEND
• * 1.430

  The Siege was begun by Arch∣duke Albert, July 5. 1601, and Ambrose Spinola enter'd the place Sept. 20. 1604.
• † 1.431

  Seventy thou∣sand One hun∣dred and twen∣ty four.
• ‖ 1.432

  Seventy two thousand and Nine hundred.
• * 1.433

  NEWPORT.