The new state of England under Their Majesties K. William and Q. Mary in three parts ... / by G.M.

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The new state of England under Their Majesties K. William and Q. Mary in three parts ... / by G.M.
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Miege, Guy, 1644-1718?
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London :: Printed by H.C. for Jonathan Robinson ...,
1691.
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"The new state of England under Their Majesties K. William and Q. Mary in three parts ... / by G.M." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A50824.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 24, 2025.

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THE NEW STATE OF ENGLAND. PART I. (Book 1)

CHAP. I.

Treating of ENGLAND in ge∣neral, and of every County in particular.

England

ENGLAND is the best and largest Part of the greatest Island of Eu∣rope. An Island anciently called Albion, from its white chalky Cliffs; but since better known by the Name of Great Britain. Great, for the vast Extent of t, reaching (as it does) in Length, from North to South, about 600 Miles. Britain,

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that is, a Country Inhabited by Painted Men, as formerly they were wont to be.

At this time 'tis principally divided into three Parts, England, Scotland, and Wales; the first two being two distinct Kingdoms, the last a Principality, but all of them happily united under one Head.

ENGLAND takes up the South Parts of the Island, being parted from Scotland North∣ward by the River Tweede; from Wales West∣ward, in part by the River Dee; and from the rest of the World, by the Ocean. Thus it con∣tains in Length, from North to South, as from Barwick to Portsmouth, 320 miles; and in breadth, from East to West, as from Dover to the Lands End, 270.

But such is the Variety of its Breadth, that in the South Parts, which face the Channel, 'tis three times the Breadth of the North. And all along the Sea-Coast in general there are so many Creeks and Inlets, some greater and some lesser, that England (and indeed the whole Island) delineated as it is in Globes and Maps, makes but an odd kind of Figure. However in this Spot of Ground, not exceeding one third Part of France, there are reckoned 30 millions of Acres.

In reference to the Globe, it lies between the 50, and 57 Degree of North Latitude; the longest Day in the most Northern Parts being 17 hours, 30 minutes; and the shortest in the most Southern, almost eight hours long.

The name of ENGLAND it took from the Angles, an ancient People of Jutland in Denmark; who, joyning with their Neighbours the Saxons, went under their Name in the Conquest of Britain. And this Name was

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given it by a special Edict of Egbert, the first sole Monarch of England, since the Hep∣tarchy. Who, being descended from those Angles, and having reduced the whole Coun∣try from a divided State into one intire Body, called it (with the Concurrence of the States of the Realm, then convened at Winchester, Anno 819.) by the Name of Engle-lond, since turned into ENGLAND. From whence the Nation and Language came to be called English.

When the Romans were possessed of this Country, they made but two Parts of it, and another of Wales. Called

  • Britannia Prima, Contain∣ing the South of England.
  • Britannia Secunda, Contain∣ing Wales.
  • Maxima Caesariensis, Contain∣ing the North of England.

Their particular Divisions were not of the Country it self, but of the Inhabitants. As the Atrebatii, Belgae, Brigantes, Catieuchlani, and ten Nations more they reckoned only in England.

In the time of the Anglo-Saxons, England alone was divided into seven Kingdoms, Viz.

  • The Kingdom of Kent, Containing the County of that Name.
  • The Kingdom of South-Saxons, Containing Sussex, and Surrey.
  • The Kingdom of West-Saxons, Containing Cornwal, Devon, So∣merset, Dorset, Wilt∣shire, Barkshire, and Hampshire.

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  • The Kingdom of East-Saxons, Containing Middlesex, Essex, and part of Hartfordshire
  • The Kingdom of East-Angles, Containing Norfolk, Suffolk, Cam∣bridgshire.
  • The Kingdom of Mercia, Containing Glocester, Worcester, Hereford, Shropshire, Cheshire, Stafford, Darby, Nottingham, Leicester, Rutland, Lincoln, Huntington, Northampton, War∣wick, Salop, Oxon, Buckingham, Bedford, and the rest of Hartfordshire.
  • The Kingdom of Northumberland Containing York, Lancashire, Dur∣ham, Westmorland, Cumberland, Nor∣thumberland, and the South Parts of Scot∣land as far as Edin∣burg.

But England's Division into Shires or Coun∣ties did not begin till the Reign of Alfred, a∣bout 800 Years ago. Afterwards every Shin was subdivided into Hundreds, and Hundred into Tythings; a Hundred containing te Tythings, and a Tything ten Families.

The Shires, or Counties are either Ma∣ritime, or Inland; in all 40 in number.

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The Maritime Counties, I mean such as be wa∣tered by the Ocean, are these. Viz.

  • ...Cornwal.
  • ...Devonshire.
  • ...Somersetshire.
  • ...Dorsetshire.
  • ...Hampshire.
  • ...Sussex.
  • ...Kent.
  • ...Essex.
  • ...Suffolk.
  • ...Norfolk.
  • ...Lincolnshire.
  • ...Yorkshire.
  • ...Durham.
  • ...Northumberland.
  • ...Cumberland.
  • ...Westmorland.
  • ...Lancashire.
  • ...Cheshire.

Whereof the first seven Counties take up the most Southern Parts, and lye all along the Channel, which parts England from France; the next seven run from Kent and Sussex North∣ward, bounded on the East by the German Ocean; and the last fourly North-West, bounded by the Irish Seas.

The Inland Counties are

  • ...Nottinghamshire.
  • ...Derbyshire.
  • ...Staffordshire,
  • ...Shropshire.
  • ...Worcestershire.
  • ...Herefordshire.
  • ...Monmouthshire.
  • ...Glocestershire.
  • ...Wiltshire.
  • ...Barkshire.
  • ...Buckinghamshire.
  • ...Surrey.
  • ...Middlesex.
  • ...Hartfordshire.
  • ...Cambridgeshire.
  • ...Huntingtonshire.
  • ...Bedfordshire.
  • ...Oxfordshire.
  • ...Warwickshire.
  • ...Northamptonshire.
  • ...Rutland.
  • ...Leicestershire.

Amongst all which Counties, 'tis Observable, that some of them take their Names from the

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old Inhabitants; as Cumberland from the Cynt∣bri or ancient Britains; Essex and Sussex from the East and South Saxons, who setled here after their Conquest. Some from their Situa∣tion, as Northumberland, Norfolk, Suffolk, and Middlesex. To which add Kent (in Latine Cantium,) because it lies in a Canton, or Cor∣ner of the Island.

Others, from their Form, or Figure; as Cornwal, from the figure of a Horn, called Kere by the old Britains. And indeed this County, growing from East to West smaller and smaller, is not unlike a Horn; besides that, in many places it shoots forth into the Sea with little Promontories, like unto so many Horns. Whereas Devonshire took its Denomination from the British Devinam, signifying low Valleys, of which this County does very much consist.

Others again, from some Accidents therein As Barkshire, from Beroc, a certain place wherein grew good store of Box; Rutland, q. d. Red Land, from the Redness of its Soil.

But the most part from the principal Town of the County; as Glocestershire from Glocester, Oxfordshire from Oxford, Cambridgeshire from Cambridge, &c.

As of all the Counties of England, York∣shire is the biggest, beyond all compare, so i Rutland the least. Out of the first, which i counted as big as the Seven United Provinces 70000 Men may be raised for present Ser∣vice. Whereas the Extent of the last is so in∣considerable, that one may skip it over in les than half a day.

In point of Situation, Darbyshire may b look'd upon as the middle Province of th Kingdom.

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Besides the former Division of England into Counties, there is a common way of dividing it but into Two Parts, North and South, that is, all the Counties on the North and South-side of the River Trent. Which way is followed by the Justices in Eyre of the Forest, and likewise by the Kings at Arms.

Another Division there is, relating to the publick Administration of Justice by the I∣tinerant of Judges. And that is into Six Cir∣cuits, of which I shall give a particular Ac∣count in my second Part.

Lastly, for the Church Government, England is divided, first into two Provinces, or Arch∣bishopricks, namely Canterbury and York; and these two Provinces into 22 Diocesses, or Bishopricks; these into Archdeaconries, Archdeaconries into Rural Deanries, and these last into Parishes. The Number whereof (setting aside the 12 Coun∣ties of Wales,) amounts to near Ten Thou∣sand.

CHAP. II.

The Advantages of ENGLAND from its Situation, in opposition to Inland Countries. The natural Beauty of it. A Description of its principal Rivers.

OF all the States of Europe, there's none more happy than ENGLAND, whe∣ther we consider the Advantages of its Situation, the Temperateness of its Air, the

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Richness of its Soil, the happy temper of its In∣habitants, or the Blessed Constitution of its Go∣vernment, especially under their present Ma∣jesties.

As it is in a manner surrounded by the Sea, it injoys Two great Advantages, the One in Re∣lation to foreign Trade, and the Other in point of Security from forein Invasion.

In relation to forein Trade, it lies open to all Parts of the World that are adjacent to the Sea, either for the Exportation of home∣bred, or the Importation of foreign Commo∣dities. To which purpose, as Nature has fenced its Sea-Coasts from the Irruptions and Inunda∣tions of the Sea with high Cliffs, so she has fur∣nished it with abundance of safe and capacious Harbours for the security of Ships.

As for a forein Invasion, 'tis certain, that Islands of any great Importance, are by Nature the most defensible Places, and the least open to Conquests. The Sea, that fluid Element which surrounds them, is such a Bar to their E∣nemies Attempts; the Winds that govern it, so fickle and uncertain; the Charges of a Fleet and Land Army so vast; the Preparations such as cannot be carried on with that speed and se∣crecy as for an Invasion by Land; and the Dif∣ficulty of Landing so great, in case of Opposi∣tion.

'Tis true no Continent perhaps was oftener Conquered than ENGLAND, first by the Romans, then by the Saxons, afterwards by the Danes, and last of all by the Normans. But how was it done? always by the help of some dis∣contented, or corrupted Party in the Island. Thus Bericus, a noble (but disgusted) Britain, incouraged Claudius the Roman Emperour, to stretch his Empire hither. And Vortiger an Usur∣per

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of the British Throne, called in the Saxons to his help; who, having got a footing here, could not be so easily expelled as brought in. In short, it may be said, England was never, and can scarce be Conquered but by England; especially since its happy Conjunction with Scot∣land, and the Annexion of Wales. As to the late Revolution, 'tis self evident, that the chief Part of the Nation had a hand in it; and as it proved, we may justly call it, not an Invasion, (as King James affected to do,) but a wonderful and signal Deliverance.

To those Two great Advantages of Trade and Security, which England does injoy from its Si∣tuation near the Sea, let us add the Prospect it has from the Sea-Coast of the wonderful Ocean, one of the three great Antiquities of the World; and the plentiful Variety of Fish, and Sea-Fowl, &c. it affords to this Island.

But that which raises my Admiration of ENGLAND, is the Beauty of it, being gene∣rally a flat and open Country, not overgrown with wild and unwholsom Forests, nor dreadful high Mountains. What Hills it has are gene∣rally very gentle and pleasant, and raised as it were to give a charming Prospect to the Eye; as its Forests seem only contrived for Variety, and the pleasure of Hunting.

But one Thing there is, which adds much to the Beauty of it, and that is its excellent Verdure. Which by reason of the mildness of the Air, even in the Winter-Season, exceeds in dura∣tion of Time the most fruitful Places of Eu∣rope.

To which add the Concourse of so many Ri∣vers, which glide through this Country, and strive to make it agreeable and fruitful.

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They are reckoned in all 325, the chief where∣of are these following. Viz.

  • The Thames.
  • The Medway.
  • The Severn.
  • The Ouse.
  • The Trent.
  • The Humber.
  • The Tees.
  • The Tine.
  • The Twede.

The Thames is a Compound of the Thame and Isis, two Rivers, the first whereof rises in Buckinghamshire, the other near Cirencester in Glo∣cestershire, both joyning together into one Stream by Dorcester in Oxfordshire, where it parts that County from Barkshire. From whence taking its course Eastward, with many Wind∣ings and Turnings, it parts Buckinghamshire from Barkshire, Middlesex from Surrey, and Essex from Kent. Where being swelled with the In∣flux of several lesser Rivers, it discharges it self into the Sea; watering by the way, amongst o∣ther Towns, Reading and Windsor in Barkshire, Kingston and Southwark in Surrey, London in Middlesex, Barking in Essex, and Gravesend in Kent. A River the Water whereof is extra∣ordinary wholsom, the Stream exceeding gentle, and the Tides very commodious for Naviga∣tion. For the Sea flows gently up this River a∣bout 80 Miles, almost as far as Kingston, being 12 Miles by Land, and 20 by Water, above London.

The Medway is a Kentish River, not so re∣markable for the length of its Course, as for the Depth of its Channel; and therefore made use of for harbouring the Royal Navy. It runs thorough Maidstone, Rochester and Chatham, a few Miles from whence it empties it self in the Mouth of the Thames. This River loses it self

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under Ground, and rises again at Loose, not far from Cox-Heath.

The Severn rises in Montgomeryshire, a County of North-Wales. From whence it runs through Shropshire, Worcestershire, and Glocestershire, where it does so expatiate it self, that the Mouth of it is more like an Arm of the Sea, than any part of a River. It waters in its course Shrews∣bury, Worcester and Glocester, the chief Towns of the foresaid three Counties; and takes in by the way several Rivers of good note, two Avons, the Temd, the Wye, and the Ʋsk.

The Ouse has its source in the South-Borders of Northamptonshire. From whence it runs through the Counties of Bucks, Bedford, Huntington, Cam∣bridge, and Norfolk, where it discharges it self in∣to the Ocean; watering in its Course Bucking∣ham, Bedford, Huntington, Ely, and the Sea-Port of Lyn in Norfolk. The River that runs through York, has also the Name of Ouse, being a Com∣pound chiefly of these three Yorkshire Rivers, the Swale, the Youre, and the Warfe. And be∣tween Norfolk and Suffolk you will find the little Ouse, which parting these Two Counties, runs at last into the great Ouse.

The Trent, which divides England into Two Parts, North and South, has its Rise in Staf∣fordshire; and from thence runs through Darby∣shire, Nottinghamshire, and Lincolnshire, where it falls into the Humber not far from Hull. It wa∣ters in its course these three chief Places, Not∣tingham, Newark, and Gainsborough.

The Humber is a Yorkshire River, if that can be called a distinct River which has no Spring of its own, but is more properly a Compound (or rather a Mouth) of several Rivers joyning into one Stream, especially the Trent, and the York Ouse, the Dun, and the Darewent. The Town of

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Hull is seated upon it, before which Place it widens it self (much like the Severn at its Mouth) to a great breadth, and so falls into the Sea.

The Tees is another River of the North, parting Yorkshire from the Bishoprick of Dur∣ham, and running from West to East into the Sea.

The Tine, famous for its Coal-trade, parts for some Miles Durham from Northumberland, run∣ning likewise from West to East Seaward, by Newcastle, therefore called Newcastle upon Tine.

The Twede is the furthest River Northward, and that which parts England from Scotland. At the Influx whereof into the Sea is seated Barwick, called from this River Barwick upon Twede.

But, besides these principal Rivers, and many others of less note, though several of them Na∣vigable, I cannot but mention those pleasant Rivulets and Brooks which are so numerous in this Country. Whose clear and swift-running Streams add much to the Beauty and Fruitful∣ness of it.

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CHAP. III.

Of the Air of ENGLAND. Its Temperateness, and the Effects of it.

BY the Situation of ENGLAND, so far North as it is, one would think the Air should be pretty sharp here, and at least colder than in France, which lies South from it. Whereas it is so Temperate, Winter and Sum∣mer, that the Winters are milder here, and the Summers much more moderate.

In Winter-time the warm Vapours of the Sea on every side do so thicken the Air, that it can∣not so soon penetrate as the thin Air of hot Countries. In Summer the frequent Interposi∣tion of Clouds, often dissolving into Rain, and the usual Blasts from the Sea, allay those ex∣cessive Heats, which both hot and cold Cli∣mates are troubled with in that Season, for want of Wind and Rain.

Thus ENGLAND has the happiness of being seldom tired, either with a long Frost in Winter, or Drought in Summer. On the con∣trary, while Continents in the same Latitude, and some of a much more Southern Situation, ly under Snow, pinched with a hard Frost, it happens often that our Fields are here cloathed with Grass, as in the Spring. And whilst the Sun in Summer scorches the Plants, and the In∣habitants themselves of hot Climates, here it shines so kindly, that it does but warm us by

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a moderate Heat, which makes the Country so plentiful both of Corn and Pasture.

'Tis true, on the other side, the Air is no∣thing so pure, nor the Weather so serene, or regular, as it is in Continents. Most part of the Winter ENGLAND is under a Cloud, often stuffed up with Fogs, troubled with rainy Weather, and (except there happens a Frost) but seldom injoying the Sun in its splendour. Whence proceed those frequent Colds, which are in a manner the original Cause of most of our Distempers; and from the frequency of Rain, Land-floods, which drown the Countries where the Rivers swell out of their Channels, and break over their Banks.

And yet, as rainy as this Country is, we sel∣dom see here such impetuous Showers (or rather Storms) of Rain, as hot Countries are subject to, which often drown the fairest Hopes of the Husbandman. For, if they have Rain but sel∣dom, they have it by the great, and sometimes with a Vengeance. Whereas in England, where it is more frequent, it proves most com∣monly a gentle soaking Rain.

But there is another Inconveniency in the Weather here, and that is its Changeableness, and Irregularity, according to the Wind that blows. Which happens sometimes to be so fre∣quent and sudden, that in the space of 24 hours I have observed four different sorts of Weather, proper enough for the four Seasons of the Year. This I confess, is an extraordinary Case. But however such is the Mutableness of the Wea∣ther, that it seldom holds out many Days in the same degree, either of Warmth, Coldness, or Driness. And of all Times of the Year, the Month of March is the most subject to Change, witness the usual Expression, March Many-wea∣ther.

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And yet this may be said for Changeableness of Weather, that it creates Diversion by its Variety. What is more comfortable in Win∣ter than a warm Day after a fit of cold Wea∣ther; and a cool Day in Summer, after a fit of hot Weather? The quickest and most re∣fined Pleasures grow dull by their Continuance, but Change sets an edge upon 'em. And, as glorious as the Sun appears in its greatest splendour, I have oftentimes been weary of its undiscontinued Appearance for a long time to∣gether.

On the other side ENGLAND is nothing near so subject to Hail, to Thunder, and Lightning, or to the Heavens darting of Thunderbolts, as many other Regions, which are frequently a∣larmed with those dreadful Meteors.

And, if Nature be somewhat too prodigal of Moisture in this Country, she is on the other side as careful to cure it. Scarce a fit of Rain is over, but comes a fit of Wind to dry up the Moisture, and purify the Air. So that the most part of the Year is commonly divided be∣twixt these two Gods of the Heathens, Jupiter and Aeolus.

The Wind that reigns most in ENGLAND is the Westerly Wind, which blows from the vast Western Ocean perhaps three parts in four of the Year. But when I say a Westerly Wind, I don't mean only that which blows directly from the Cardinal Point, but all the Collateral Points from South to North.

An Easterly Wind, especially in the Spring, is lookt upon here to be fatal to Plants; and if the Proverb be true, to Man and Beast.

For high Winds, and tempestuous Weather, we have here two Times of the Year, seldom free from it. And those are the two Equinoxes,

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in September and March. But for Hurricanes, and Earthquakes, England of all the Countries in Europe, is the least subject to 'em. The Storm indeed which hapned on the 12th of Ja∣nuary last, was so very violent, blew with such impetuous Gusts, and proved so mischievous, that it may pass for an Hurricane. But it was such as the like has not been known here within the Memory of Man.

In short, whatever be the Disadvantages of ENGLAND in point of Air, in respect to other Countries, the same is sufficiently coun∣tervailed by the Sweetness and Comforts of it, as 'twill further appear by the insuing Chap∣ter.

CHAP. IV.

Of the Products of ENGLAND, both from the Land and Water, and the Fruitfulness thereof.

'TIS said of Henry the Seventh, one of the wisest Kings that ever sat upon the Throne of England, but whose Breeding had been low and private, That, be∣ing once pressed by some of his Council to pur∣sue his Title to France, he returned this An∣swer; 'Tis true, says he, France is a noble and gallant Kingdom, but England in my mind is as fine a Seat for a Country Gentleman as any is in Europe.

I pass by the Reflection; and taking his An∣swer in a plain literal Sense, I own, that En∣gland

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is, in most Things, one of the finest and best Countries in Europe. I have already de∣monstrated wherein its Beauty consists, and now the Subject of this Chapter shall be its Plentifulness.

And first for Corn, either for Man or Beast, it may cerainly outvy most Countries in Eu∣rope; As it may for Pasture, which makes the Cattel thrive here exceedingly. And, though here be many Heaths, yet they are not so barren, but that they afford wherewithall to feed a World of Sheep.

Thus ENGLAND yields, not only Plen∣ty of Corn, to make Bread and Drink with, &c. but also abundance of all manner of Cattle, for wholesom substantial Food; with plenty of Salt, Cheese, and Butter. For Dainties and Variety, 'tis stocked with Fallow Deer, beyond any part of Europe. Hares and Conies, tame and wild Fowl, eatable Roots and Herbs, Fruits of most sorts it has abundance of. And so constant is the Continuance of these Things in England, by reason of the Clemency of the Air, that it has not felt a Famine for several Ages.

The Sea and Rivers, on the other side, fur∣nish it with plenty of all manner of Fish, as Herrings, Mackerels, Whitings, Pilchards, Soles, Plaices, Flounders, Cods, Salmons, Sturgeons, Lampreys, Congers, Turbots, Thornbaeks, Lohsters, and Oysters, &c. these last being famous, a∣mong the old Romans, for their extraordinary goodness. Here is also abundance of Carps. Pikes, Perches, Trouts, Gudgeons, Tenches, Roaches, Daces, Breams, Eeles, Cray-fish, &c.

Spices we have, as all the rest of Europe, from the East and West-Indies; and from this last, that inchanting Commodity which has got so

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much the vogue here, I mean Tobacco. Not but that the English Soil can bear it plenti∣fully, as has been found by Experience; but, because it is more proper, for several Reasons of State, to fetch it at that di∣stance.

In short, what other Things ENGLAND wants, whether for delight or fancy, are easi∣ly supplied by Sea from those Countries where they grow; which either exchange 'em fo Mony, or such Commodities of our Growth as we can spare, and they stand in need of.

As for Wine, 'tis said indeed the South Parts of ENGLAND, as Kent and Hamp∣shire amongst others, have had formerly great Numbers of Vineyards, and (as the Summe proved) made of them tolerable Wine. But since better Wine could be had from o•••• Neighbours at an easier rate, the Vineyard were laid aside, and the Soil turned to bette account. And yet, when the Season does an∣swer to the singular Care and Industry of the Husbandman, I may say this without Pre∣judice, and from my own Experience, that England then affords in some Places as good and delicious Grapes as most Parts of France. The same I may aver of some other Fruits, as Peache amongst others; but then I must confess, Ar has a great hand in it.

Lastly, The want of Wine is otherwise sup∣plied by Beer and Ale, the usual Drinks of the Country. Which, rightly made, is as whole∣som a Liquour, though not so cheerful, a Wine.

Now for Rayment, English Wool is famous all over the World, both for its fineness and

Page 19

goodness. But that of Cotswold in Glocester∣shire, of Lemster in Herefordshire, and of the Isle of Wight, has the pre-eminency. Of this Wool are made excellent broad Cloths, dispersed not only all over England, but all over the World, especially high Germany, Poland, Mos∣covy, Turky, and Persia, to the great bene∣fit of this Kingdom. For the advancing of which Manufacture, that necessary Earth, called Fullers-Earth, is no where else produ∣ced in that abundance and excellency as in En∣gland.

For Flax and Hemp, to make Linnen of, here is a great deal of good and proper Soil; which I wonder should not be improved for that purpose, rather than have so much Lin∣nen imported as there is from beyond Sea. But, as for Leather, here's great Plenty of it, and such as is excellent for all manner of Use. And, as England does swarm with Conies, their Furs go a great way for the making of Hats.

Silks also might be here produced, as it was once designed by King James the first.

For other necessary Conveniences, as for building of Houses, ENGLAND wants not Materials, except such Timber as comes from Norway. For Firing, here is indeed in most Places a Scarcity of Wood; but that Defect is abundantly supplied by the Coal-Mines.

For Shipping, no where better Oak. For Land-Carriage, Plenty of good stout Horses. For Hunting, or Racing, such as are incompara∣ble. And for Beauty or Fineness, scarce any Country like this.

Dogs of all sorts, sizes, and uses are also to be found here. Amongst which the Mastiffs,

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whether Bear or Bull-dogs, are extraordinary, the first for their Size, and both for their Stoutness. Our Spaniels also, and all sorts of Hounds for Hunting, are of great request be∣yond Sea.

For Smell and Ornament, here all sorts of Flowers, even those that come from the remo∣test Countries, thrive to admiration. But no Region perhaps abounds like this in Laurel and Rosemary, two remarkable Plants for their perpetual Greenness.

For Physical Ʋses, it scarce wants any Simple. Here grows plenty of excellent Saffron and Li∣corish; neither does it want Hony or Wax, of the best fort. Here are also hot Baths, and abundance of Medicinal Springs.

I come now to those inexhaustible Trea∣sures of Coals, Lead, Copper, Tin, and Iron, which are dug out of the Bowels of the Earth in this Kingdom. The Coal-mines do chiefly in∣rich Newcastle in Northumberland, from whence a great part of the Kingdom is sup∣plied with Coals for Fewel; without which it could not possibly subsist, so great is the Decay of Woods, and the Neglect of plant∣ing.

The Lead-Mines are most considerable in the Peak of Derbyshire; and those of Tin in Cornwal, where they dig Tin not much infe∣riour to Silver in fineness. Here are also Cop∣per-Mines, but herein Cumberland does exceed it. As for the Mines of Iron, 'tis true they bring more Damage to the Publick by the Spoil of Woods, than the Profit that accrues thereby to private Persons amounts to.

Here are also Silver-Mines, as in Cornwal, Lancashire, and the Bishoprick of Durham, richer than the very Mines of Potosi, in the West-Indies,

Page 21

whence the King of Spain has most of his Silver. For, whereas these yield usually but one Ounce and a half of Silver in one hun∣dred Ounces of Oar, our English Mines com∣monly yield six or eight Ounces per Cent. 'Tis true ours lying deeper, and harder to come unto, and the Workmen being dear (which is otherwise in Potosi,) all these things concurring together, are like to secure them from any further Attempt.

In short, though some Countries excel ENGLAND in some Things, yet this may be said of it in general; That there is scarce any Country, whose Fields are better stored with all sort of Corn; the Pastures, with Cat∣tel; the Woods, and Forrests, Parks, and War∣rens, with wild Beasts, only for Recreation and Food; the Air with Birds and Fowls; the Seas and Rivers, with Fishes; and the Mines with Coals and Metals.

On the other side, there is scarce a Coun∣try so little troubled with hurtful and ravenous Beasts, with venomous Serpents, or noisom Flies and Vermine.

Wolves, which of all ravenous Beasts are the most pernicious and destructive of Cattel, have been so wonderfully extirpated out of this Land, that I cannot omit the History of it. I know it has been a Tradition of old Writers, that England never had any Wolves at all, and that being brought hither from other Places, they would not live. But History tells us the contrary, here being abundance of them, till King Edgar commuted for 300 Wolves the yearly Tribute paid him by the Prince of Wales. Which made the Welch so industrious and active in Wolf-hunting, that the Wolves were in time quite rooted out of the Land,

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the Welch protesting at last, they could find no more of 'em.

Whereby 'tis come to pass, that whereas in other Countries they are at the Charge and Trouble of guarding their Sheep, and housing them by night, here they are left feeding in the Fields day and night, secure from any Danger, unless it be sometimes from Men-Wolves, or Sheep-stealers.

And yet I am credibly informed, that in some Places, as Warwickshire among the rest, some Wolves from time to time have been discovered. But, as it happens but sel∣dom, so upon the least notice the Country rises amain, as it were against a common Ene∣my; there being such a hue and cry after the Wolf, that it is hard for him to escape the Posse Comitatus.

CHAP. V.

Of the COUNTRY in parti∣cular. And first of Barkshire, Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire, in the Alphabetick Order; With an Account of what is most re∣markable in each.

Barkshire.

BARKSHIRE, BERKSHIRE, or BERKS, is an Inland County. 'Tis bounded on the North by the Thames and Isis, which part it from Oxfordshire; On the South, by Hampshire; Eastward, by Sur∣rey;

Page 23

and Westward, by Wiltshire and Glocester∣shire.

It contains in Length from East to West, a∣bout 45 Miles; in Breadth from North to South, 25. The whole divided into 20 Hundreds, wherein 140 Parishes, and 12 Market-Towns.

The Country is very pleasant, the Air sweet, and the Soil fruitful.

Next to the Isis and the Thames, which wa∣ter the North Parts of it, the Kennet is the principal River, which runs into the Thames at Reading, and yields excellent Trouts, espe∣cially about Hungerford.

Reading the County-Town lies 32 Miles West from London, thus; viz. to Colebrook, 15 from thence to Maidenhead, 7 and 10 more to Reading. A Town commodiously seated at the fall of the Kennet into the Thames, over which Rivers it has several Bridges, and that over the Kennet is the fairest. The Town is well inhabited, and contains 3 Parish Churches. Of great Re∣sort and Trade, especially for its Cloth and Malt here made. Here the County Assizes are usu∣ally kept; and its Market is on Saturday.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Windsor, Sat.
  • Vantage, Sat.
  • Abington, Mund. & Frid.
  • Faringdon, Tues.
  • Ockingham, Tues.
  • Wallingford, Tues. & Frid.
  • Maidenhead, Wed.
  • Hungerford, Wed.
  • East-Isley, Wed.
  • Newbury, Thurs.
  • Lainborn,

Amongst which Wallingford and Abington, are two Towns of great Antiquity, and such as have flourished in their time, but since gone to decay. The first being the Guallena of the

Page 24

Ancients, and then the chief Town of the At∣trebatii, was afterwards also among the West Saxons the chief Town of this County. A Mile in compass at that time within the Walls, for∣tified with a strong Castle, and adorned with 12 Parish Churches. But in the Year 1348, so desolated by a Plague, that there is now but one Church left, hardly Inhabitants enough to keep that in repair; and nothing of the Walls left (as not much of the Castle) but the Tract and Ruins of 'em. However as it is seat∣ed upon the Thames (over which it has a Bridge,) it makes shift to support it self by its Trade of Maulting, and its Commodiousness for Transporting Corn and other Commodities to London. And so doth Abington, which lies North-West from it, at the fall of the Ouse into the Isis. Noted for giving the Title of an Earl∣dom to the Right Honourable James Bertie, the present Earl of Abington, Baron Norreys, &c.

Windsor, on the Thames is chiefly remarkable for its Castle, the finest Royal Pallace of Eng∣land, and the only Castle of six this County has formerly had, which is now remaining. Which being seated on a great Eminence, with a stately and spacious Terrass before it, injoys a pure Air, and a delicate Prospect. Famous for being the Place where the Ceremony of the Knights of the Garter is solemnized on St. George's Day.

Newbury and Hungerford are both seated on the River Kennet, few Miles distant from each other. The first, of chief note for the Batte fought here in the long Civil Wars, called New∣bury Fight, where King Charles I. remained victo∣rious. And the last for having the best Trouts and Craw-Fish in all England.

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This County, formerly a Part of the ancient Kingdom of the West-Saxons, (the Inhabitants whereof called Attrebatii by the ancient Ro∣mans,) is in the Diocese of Salisbury. Dignified with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Honourable Thomas Howard, the present Earl of Barkshire, Viscount Andover, &c. Devolved to him from his Brother Charles, and to Charles from their Father Thomas Howard, created Earl of Barkshire, Anno 1625. Which Title had been injoyed before him by another Family, but in the Person only of Francis Nor∣ris, created Earl of Barkshire, by King James I. Anno 1620; who died few Years after, with∣out Issue Male.

Out of this County are chosen, besides the two Knights of the Shire, seven Members to sit in Parliament. Viz. 2 from Reading, 2 from Windsor, 2 more from Wallingford, and 1 from Abington.

Bedford∣shire.

BEDFORDSHIRE, another Inland County is bounded Eastward by Hartfordshire, and part of Cambridgeshire; Westward, by Buckinghamshire; Northward, by Northamp∣ton and Huntington Shires; Southward, by Middlesex, and the South Parts of Buckingham∣shire.

It contains in Length from North to South not above 24 Miles; in Breadth, but 12; and in Circumference 72. The Whole divided into nine Hundreds, wherein 116 Parishes, and 10 Market-Towns.

Here the Air is very temperate, the Country for the most part Champion, and the Soil fer∣ile, especially the North part of it. Noted, shiefly for yielding the best Barley in Eng∣and.

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Next to the River Ouse, which waters the North Parts of it, the Ivel is the chief, which falls into the Ouse.

A memorable Thing is recorded of this River Ouse, which I am unwilling to pretermit. At a Place near Harwood, on New Years Day 1399, just before the War began between the Two Houses of York and Lancaster, this River sud∣denly stood still, and ceased its Course; and so se∣vered it self, that Men went about 3 Miles toge∣ther on foot in the bottom of the Channel, the Waters swelling up backwards, to a great height.

Bedford, the County-Town, lies North-west and by North, 40 Miles from London, thus. From London to Barnet, 10; 10 more to St. Al∣bans, 8 from thence to Luton, 5 more to Baru Clay, thence to Bedford 7.

A Town pleasantly seated on the Banks o the River Ouse, that parts it into two, and o∣ver which there is a fair Stone Bridge, Called Bedford from the Beds and Lodgings on the Ford, built on both sides of the River for the use of Travellers. A Town which in proces of time is grown to that bigness, as to contain in it 5 Parish Churches, whereof 3 on the North and 2 on the South-side of the River.

Famous in former times for the great Bat∣tel fought in the adjoyning Fields Anno 572 in which Cuthwolf the Saxon vanquished th Britains, and became Master of the Country But more famous for giving the Title of Duke to John of Lancaster, Regent of France for Kin Henry VI, and to Jasper of Hatfield, Uncle 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Henry VII. After whom it was dignified b King Edward VI, Anno 1548, with the Title o an Earldom, in the Person of the then Lon Admiral John Russel; and from him descende

Page 27

in a right line to the truly Noble and right Ho∣nourable William Russel, the present Earl of Bedford, and Knight of the Order of the Gar∣ter.

Lastly, this Town has two Markets a Week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, well furnished with all sorts of Provisions.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Tuddington, Sat.
  • Potton, Sat.
  • Luton, Mund.
  • Leighton, Tue.
  • Biglesworth Tue.
  • Dunstable, Wedn.
  • Ampthill, Thur.
  • Woburn, Frid.
  • Shefford, Frid.

Among which Dunstable, the chief of all, is seated on a Hill, in a chalky dry Ground. Built by King Henry I. out of the Ruins of the ancient Magiovinium, for the better suppres∣sing of one Dun, a notorious Robber, that u∣sed to pester these Parts, from whom it came to be called Dunstable. It has 4 Streets in it, and in each of 'em a Pond, fed only with Rain, and yet these Ponds are never dry. No Springs here to be found, without digging a very great depth. But as it is seated in the high Road from London to West-Chester (formerly known by the Name of Watling-street,) 'tis a well fre∣quented Town, and accommodated with several good Inns for Travellers. In this Town King Edward I. caused a Cross or Column to be e∣rected, adorned with Statues, and the Arms of England, &c. in Memorial of Eleanor his Queen, this being the Place where her Corps rested in her Journey from Lincolnshire, where she died, to Westminster Abbey, where she was interred. About this Town are caught abundance of

Page 28

Larks, which are esteemed the best in England and where they are the best dressed.

Leighton is seated in the Borders of Bucking∣hamshire, upon a River that runs Northward in∣to the Ouse. This is a good large Town, ha∣ving a Bridge over the River, which leads to Buckinghamshire. And its Market is very considerable, especially for all sorts of fa•••• Cattle.

Luton, a pretty good Town, borders upon both the Counties of Hartford and Bucking ham; and Potton, upon Cambridgeshire. Wo∣burn, on a rising Ground, is much frequented by Passengers in their Journeys from London to Northampton. Formerly of some account for its fine Monastery, as it is at present fo its Free School, founded by Francis Earl of Bed∣ford.

Near this Town is Aspley, where the natur of the Soil is such, that it petrifies Wood. An about this Town is digged up excellent Fulle•••• Earth in great plenty.

Biglesworth is pleasantly seated on the Ive over which it has a Stone-bridge. This Town formerly but inconsiderable, is grown into request, since it became a Thorough-fare for Coaches especially, between London and York.

Shefford is situate on the other side of the ∣vel, West and by South from Biglesworth, be∣tween two Rivulets which joyn below th Town, and fall together in one stream into th Ivel.

Ampthill, 5 Miles South of Bedford, is a Honour belonging to the Crown. Graced with a fine Seat and Park in its Neighbourhood, be longing to the Earl of Alesbury.

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To conclude, this County (formerly was Part of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia, and its In∣habitants part of the Catieuchlani, as the Ro∣mans called them) is now in the Diocese of London.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Members to sit in Par∣liament, the Right of Election being in the Town of Bedford.

Bucking∣hamshire.

Buckinghamshire, or Bucks, another Inland Coun∣ty, is bounded on the East by Bedford and Hart∣ford Shires, and part of Middlesex; on the West, by Oxfordshire; Northward, by Northampton∣shire; and Southward, by Barkshire.

It contains in Length, from North to South, about 40 Miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 18. The Whole divided into eight Hundreds, wherein 185 Parishes, and 15 Market Towns.

A Country blest with a very temperate and healthful Air, and with a rich and fertile Soil, yielding Grass and Corn in great abundance, especially the Vale, lying Northwards. South-Eastward it rises into Hills, called the Chiltern, which afford a great deal of Wood.

An infinite Number of Sheep is bred, espe∣cially in the Vales of this Country, whose Fleece is much esteemed for its fineness.

As for Rivers, here is Northward the Ouse, and a small Stream that runs into it; about the middle of the County, the Tame; and in the South-East Parts the Coln, which severs part of this County from that of Middlesex.

Buckingham, the chief Place of it, lies North∣west and by West 44 Miles from London. Viz. 6 to Acton, 9 more to Ʋxbridge, 9 more to A∣mersham, to Wendover 6 more, thence 4 to Ailes∣bury, and 10 more to Buckingham.

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A goodly Town seated in a fruitful Soil, on the Banks of the River Ouse, rising not far from it, and over which it has 3 fair Stone Bridges. 'Tis pretty well frequented and inhabited; and its Market, which is kept on Saturdays, well served with Provisions. In times past, it was fortified by King Edward the elder. The Town-Hall stands in the North Part of the Town; and the Chappel, founded by Tho. Becket, is now converted into a Free School.

Otherwise not much observable but for those many noble Personages which have had the Title of Earls and Dukes thereof.

The last Duke was George Villiers, who died in the late Reign. He was Son to George Vis∣count Villiers, Baron of Whaddon; first created Earl of Buckingham by King James the First, and afterwards Duke thereof, Anno 1623. He was Lord Admiral of England, and High Cham∣berlain; and was slain by Felton.

The other Market Towns are

  • Newport, Sat.
  • Ailesbury, Sat.
  • Risborough, Sat.
  • Marlow, Sat.
  • Oulney, Mund.
  • Agmundesham, Tues.
  • Colebrook, Wed.
  • Chesham, Wed.
  • Winslow, Thur.
  • Wendover, Thur.
  • Beaconfield, Thur.
  • Stony-Stratford, Frid.
  • Ivingo, Frid.
  • High Wickham, Frid.

Amongst which, Newport, Stoney-Stratford, and Oulney, are all three seated on the Ouse; Ailes∣bury, on the Tame; Marlow, near the Thames and Colebrook, on the Coln.

Page 31

Newport, or Newport Pagnel, a goodly Town, has two Bridges over the Ouse, and is of chief note for the Bone-lace here made.

Stony Stratford, a Place of great Antiquity, being the Lactodurum of the Romans, is a good large Town, containing two Parish Churches. And, as it lies in the Way from London to the North-West Parts of England, it is well ac∣commodated with Inns for Travellers. This is the Way called Wailing-street, being a Military High-Way of the Romans, which crossed all the Country. At this Place King Edward the Elder obstructed the Passage of the Danes, whilst he fortified Towcester against them. And here King Edward Lerected a beautiful Cross, in Memorial of his Queen Eleanor, whose Corps rested here in her Journey from Lincolnshire where she died, to Westminster Abbey, the Place of her Sepulture.

Wickham, situate in a low and fertile Vale, on a small River which falls into the Thames, is a Town which for largeness and fair Buildings is not inferiour to any in the County. Here the County Assises are commonly kept, and some∣times at Ailesbury.

Ailesbury stands in a most fruitful Vale, on the rising of a little Hill, compassed about with many very pleasant green Meadows and Pa∣stures. The Vale in great repute for grazing of Cattel, and feeding innumerable Flocks of Sheep, whose fine Fleeces are in great esteem. A Vale famous of old for S. Edith, who bidling the World Adieu betook her self to this Vale, where she lived a pious and holy life. The Town more remarkable of late for the Title of an Earldom it gives to the Right Honourable Thomas Bruce, the present Earl of Ailesbury, and Earl of Elgin in Scotland. Derived to him

Page 32

from his Father Robert Bruce, Baron of Kinlos, Earl of Elgin, and Lord Whorlton in York∣shire. Who was created by King Charles II. Baron of Skelton, Viscount Bruce of Ampthill, and Earl of Ailesbury, March 18th. 1664. Advanced afterwards to the Place of Lord Chamberlain of his Majesties Houshold soon af∣ter the late Kings Accession to the Crown, up∣on the Decease of his Predecessor the Earl of Arlington.

Beaconfield is seated on a dry Hill, not far ei∣ther from Wickham or Amersham. A goodly Town, which being on the high Road from London to Oxford is very well accommodated with Inns.

Marlow is probably so called from the great store of Marl or Chalk here dug up; which adds no small advantage to the Husbandmen, who inrich their Grounds with it.

But, besides all these Market Towns, here's Eaton upon the Thames, opposite to Windsor, which deserves a Place here, for its fine Col∣ledge, and famous School of Literature, found∣ed by that Pious Prince, King Henry the Sixth.

Lastly, this County (which formerly was Part of the ancient Kingdom of the West Sax∣ons, and its Inhabitants part of the Catieuch∣lani, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of London.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 12 Members of Parliament; viz. two out of each of these Towns, Buckingham, Ailesbury, Chipping-Wickomb, Agmundesham, Wen∣dover, and Marlow.

Page 33

CHAP. VI.

Of Cambridge, Cheshire, and Corn∣wal.

Cam∣bridge∣shire.

CAMBRIDGESHIRE, another In∣land County, has for its Bounds East∣ward, both Suffolk and Norfolk; West∣ward, Northampton, Huntington, and Bedford shires; Northward, Lincolnshire; Scuthward, Essex, and Hartfordshire.

It extends it self in Length, from North to South, 35 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 20. The Whole divided into 17 Hundreds, 163 Parishes, and 8 Market-Towns.

'Tis for the most part a pleasant, fruitful, Champain Country, abounding in all Things necessary, stored with Meadows and Pastures, plentiful of Corn and Barley, and abundantly furnished with Fish and Fowl. The Northern Parts indeed are Fenny, and therefore less fruit∣ful of Corn.

But that Defect is sufficiently supplied ano∣ther way, I mean by that plenty of Cattel, Fish, and Fowl that are bred in those Fens. 'Tis true the Air, in those Parts, is something the worse for them.

One Thing this County may boast of, besides Essex; viz. the Saffron it yields in great plenty, which is the dearest Commodity that England produces.

The Herb called Scordium, or Water Ger∣mander (of which the Cordial Dioscordium is made) grows here also very plentifully.

Page 34

About 2 miles South-Eastward from Cam∣bridge is a Ridge of Hills, called Hog-magog Hills, retaining yet the remembrance of the Danish Station, and whereof the Country peo∣ple tell fine fabulous Stories. On the top of these Hills is seen a Rampier, so strengthen∣ed formerly with a threefold Trench, that the Place was counted to be in a manner Impreg∣nable.

As for Rivers, here is the Ouse, which runs through the midst of it from West to East, and then bending its Course to the North, parts this County from Norfolk, till it discharges it self at Lyn into the Sea. The South Parts are watered with two lesser Streams, the one called Cam, and the other Grant, both which joyn together into one Stream near Cambridge, under the first Name, and so run together Northward into the Ouse. The North Parts indeed are too much watered by the frequent Overflowings of the Ouse, and other Streams, that have turned most of those Parts into Marshes.

I should now fall to the Description of Cam∣bridge, but that it is a Place of that Conse∣quence as to deserve a particular Description by it self. For which I refer you, together with that of Oxford, to the Conclusion of this Part. And so I proceed to a View of the other Places of chief note in this County, which are Mar∣ket-Towns, besides Cambridge.

The other Market-Towns are,

  • Ely Sat.
  • Wisbich Sat.
  • Newmarket Tue.
  • Caxton Tue.
  • Royston, Wedn.
  • Linton, Thu.
  • Merche, Frid.

Page 35

Among which Ely is situate in an Isle of that name, occasioned by the divided streams of the Ouse and other lesser Rivers, turning a great part of this Tract into Fens and Mar∣shes. A Place of no great beauty or reputa∣tion, being seated in a foggy and unhealthful Air; but only for being a Bishops See, and a County Palatine, since the eign of Hen∣ry I.

Newmarket is partly in this County, and partly in Suffolk. It stands in such a plain, that it has a Prospect three quarters of the Compass, almost to the Bounds of the Horizon; the South-East Parts being more rising Ground, and ending in Woodland. A famous Plain both for Hunting and Horse-races, where the Kings of England use yearly to divertise themselves for some Days before Winter. To which pur∣pose there is a House built, on Cambridge side, for their Reception. The Town it self is composed of a well-built Street; and being a great Thorough-fare, the Townsmen live chiefly upon Passengers; besides the Advan∣tage of the Court, when the King goes thi∣ther. It consists of two Parishes, one in Suffolk, the other in Cambridgeshire. Its Market is well served, particularly with Fish and wild Fowl from the fenny Parts, as it is with Pigeons from the Fiekling. The Women here imploy themselves very much in spinning of white Work. And, not far from this Town, is the huge Ditch, called the Devil's Ditch.

Royston stands in the bottom of a Hill, part∣ly in this County, and partly in Hartfordshire. Whose Market is very considerable, for Malt especially.

Lastly, this County (which formerly was

Page 36

Part of the Kingdom of the East-Angles, and its Inhabitants part of the Iceni, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocess of Ely.

Out of it are elected, besides the 2 Knights of the Shire, 4 Members of Parliament; viz. 2 by the Town of Cambridge, and 2 more by the Ʋniversity.

Cheshire.

CHESHIRE, a Maritime County in the North-West Parts of England, is bounded on the East by Derbyshire and Staffordshire; on the West, partly by the Irish Sea, partly by Flintshire and Denbighshire, two Counties of Wales; Northward, by Lancashire; Southward, part by Denbighshire, and part by Shropshire and Staffordshire.

It contains in Length, from East to West, about 45 Miles; in Breadth, from North to South, 25. The Whole divieled into 7 Hundreds, 85 Parishes, and 13 Market Towns.

As flat as this Country is, yet it is not with∣out several noted Hills, besides the Mountains which divide it from Darby and Stafford Shires. It has also several Woods and Forests, as namely Delamere and Maclesfield Forests; and is so well stored with Parks, that almost every Gen∣tleman has one peculiar to himself.

Heaths and Mosses are frequent here; but the first serve to feed Sheep, and Horses, and Mos∣ses to make Turves of for Fewel.

As for Rivers, this Country is well watered with them; the South-west Parts, with the Dee; the middle, with the Weever; and the North Parts, with the Mersey, which divides this County from Lancashire. The Dee affords great plenty of Sal∣mon. And 'tis observable of this River, that upon the fall of much Rain, it rises but little; but, if the South Wind beat long upon it, it swells

Page 37

nd overflows the Grounds adjoyning. Here are lso many Meres, and Pools, in all which are a∣undance of excellent Fish.

Here the Air for Temperature, and the Soil for Fertility, is inferiour to none, and far ex∣eeding the Neighbouring Counties.

Its chief Commodities are Corn, Cattel, Sheep, Fish, Fowl, Salt, and Cheese, the best n all England.

Chester, (otherwife called West-Chester, by reason of its Western Situation) is the chief Place of this County, bearing from London North-West, and distant therefrom (by com∣mon Computation) 150 Miles, thus. Viz. from London to St. Albans, 20. from thence to Stony-Stratford, 24; to Daventry, 16 more; from Daventry to Coventry, 22; thence to Lichfield, o more; to Stone 18; to Nantwich, 15; and to Chester, 15 more.

This City was raised from the Fort Ostorius, Lieutenant of Britain for the Emperour Clau∣ius. And 'tis pleasantly seated on the River Dee, about 25 miles from its fall into the Sea, the River widening it self all the way to a great breadth. But the Channel is so choakt up with Sand for some Miles, that all Ships now ome to a Place called the New Key, about 6 miles distance.

Over the River it has a fair Stone-bridge uilt upon 8 Arches, with a Gate at each nd, from whence issue the Walls of the City n a quadrangular form, high and strongly uilt. In this Wall are 4 Gates, viz. the East-Gate, Bridge-gate, Water-gate, and North-Gate; the first being esteemed one of he stateliest Gates in England. Besides these our principal Gates, there are three others of ess note, called the Posterns, and on the Wall

Page 38

are 7 Watch-towers, and broad Battlements for Pieces of Ordnance. On the South side, is a stately strong Castle, built in a circular form, with a Court-yard about it inclosed with a Wall. In the North Part is the Cathedral adjoyning to which is the Bishops Pallace.

In short, this City is beautify'd with divers fair Buildings, both publick and private; and graced with large and well-ordered Streets▪ which are supplied with fresh Water, by Con∣duit Pipes, from a Tower at the Bridge calle Water-Tower, 35 yards high, and 8 broad Along the chief Streets are Galleries (or Row as they call them) with Shops on one side through which Galleries one may walk fre from Wet in the greatest Showers.

As to the Number of Parishes in it, I fin no less than ten; so well frequented this Pla•••• is by Gentry and Tradesmen. For, besides th Assises held here twice a Year, Chester being a County Palatine has also its Courts Pala∣tine kept here. And, as it stands commodi∣ously for Ireland, with which it has a grea Intercourse, so it is a constant Thorough-far for that Kingdom.

Of late it has been of particular Note, fo being the Rendezvous of great part of ou Forces, that have been transported for th Reduction of Ireland; and Highlake, on th North-side of the River's Mouth, for being th proper Place for Shipping.

'Twas in this City of Chester that King Edga had his Barge rowed (by way of Homage) b seven Kings of the Scots and Britains, from 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Johns Church to his Pallace, himself as s∣preme Lord holding the Helm. And 'tis ob∣servable, that the eldest Sons of the Kings 〈◊〉〈◊〉 England (whether it be by birth, or death 〈◊〉〈◊〉

Page 39

their elder Brothers, are ipso facto Earls of Chester.

The other Market Towns are

  • Nantwich Sat.
  • Middlewich Sat.
  • Congleton Sat.
  • Knutsford Sat.
  • Malpas Mund.
  • Maxfield Mund.
  • Altrincham, Tue.
  • Fordsham, Wedn.
  • Sanbich, Thu.
  • Northwich Frid.
  • Stopford Frid.
  • Tarvin Frid.

Amongst which, Nantwich and Fordsham are feated on the Banks of the Weever; Stopford, on the Mersey; Northwich and Congleton, on the Dane, which runs into the Weeve; Middlewich on the Croke, near its fall into the Dane; Max∣field, or Maclesfield, on the Bollin; Sandbich, on the Welock.

Nantwich, Middlewich, and Northwich, are of chief note for their Salt-pits; but the first especially, which (next to Chester) is the greatest and the fairest built Town in the County. Here is the best white Salt made, and great plenty of it.

At Congleton, they make great store of Points, Purses, and leather Gloves. Sandbich is only famous for its Ale, sold at London for 12 pence the bottle; which, for strength and clearness, does equalize Canary. Maxfield, or Maclesfield, is a large and fair Town, which drives a great Trade of Buttons. But it is of most note for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honour∣able Charles Gerard, Earl of Maclesfield, &c.

This County (formerly a Part of the an∣cient Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Chester.

Page 40

The Earls hereof were anciently accounted Palatines; since William the Conquerour gave this Earldom to Hugh Lupus, a noble Norman, to be holden as freely by his Sword, as the King himself held England by his Crown; which was the Tenure of all Counts Palatine, more like Princes than Subjects. And, though it be now, (and has long been) reannexed to the Crown; yet it still holds the Rights and Privi∣ledges of a County Palatine; having, for the administration thereof, a Chamberlain, a Ju∣stice for the Common-Pleas of the Crown, two Barons of the Exchequer, a Sheriff, an Es∣cheator, and other Officers, to the great ease of all the Country, in expedition of their Busi∣ness.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Members of Parliament, and Chester only has the Right of Election.

CORNWAL, the furthest County in the West of England, is on all sides surround∣ed with the Sea; except Eastward, where the River Tamer parts it from Devon∣shire.

Its Length from East to West is about 70. miles; and the broadest Part, next to Devon∣shire, 40. The Whole divided into nine Hun∣dreds, wherein 161 Parishes, and 21 Market Towns.

The Country being for the most part but narrow, you cannot expect here Rivers of any long Course. The Tamer aforesaid is the most considerable; next to which you have the Camel, and the Fale.

Here the Air is pure and subtile, but much subject to Winds and stormy Weather; and more apt to preserve than to recover Health, espe∣cially to Strangers.

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The Spring is something backward here, which makes the Harvest to be later than in the Eastern Parts; but, on the other side, the Win∣ter does prove milder.

The Country in general is hilly, and rocky, the Rocks being crusted over with a shallow Earth. The Parts towards the Sea are the most fruitful both in Corn and Pasturage. Which happens partly by the industrious ma∣nuring the Ground with a fruitful sort of Sand, and a Sea-weed called Orewood. The middle Parts, except the Inclosures about Towns and Villages, ly generally waste and open, and serve chiefly for Summer Cattel. But, as to Game, both for the Hawk and the Hound, here's great store of it.

One Thing it excels all other Counties in, and that is its Tin Mines, the Tin whereof goes beyond any in Europe for fineness.

Here is also found in some Rocks a sort of precious Stone, called the Cornish Diamond, shaped and polished by Nature; and some of them as big as a Walnut, but indeed not so hard as the right Diamond.

For Fishing of Pilchards, this is the Place; the Time, from July to November. When the Sea does so swarm of them, that enough can be spared to supply France, Spain, and Ita∣ly with them in great Stores; the smoaked one being called Fumados in Italy, where they pass for a great Dainty.

In Mounts Bay is the famous Hill, called S. Michael's Mount, severed from the main Land by a sandy Plain, which at Ebb-water may be passed over on foot. A Hill that proudly raises it self to a great eminence, the top of it be∣ing a small Plain, the greatest part on't taken up by an old Fort.

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Nigh unto the said Bay is a strong Rock, called Main Amber, which lieth as it were mounted on others of a smaller size with so equal a Counterpoise, that it may be stirred, but not moved out of its place. And in S. Cleere's Parish there are upon a Plain 6 or 8 Stones, such as are upon Salisbury Plain. Which, like them too, will be mistaken in their telling; so that, when they are told over again, they will be found either more o less than before.

At Boskenna is a Trophy erected, 18 Stone placed round, and pitched 12 foot from each other, with another in the Center far bigge than the rest. And in many Places hereabout are Pieces of Armour, both for Horse and Man, digged out of the Ground.

Among Sea-faring Men, here are (beside the Harbours) two Places of chief note viz. the Lizard Point, and the Lands End. The first is the furthest part South-West of the Goon hilly Downs, a pretty large Tract 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Ground shooting forth from the main Land into the South Sea. The Lands End is the fur∣thest Point Westward of Cornwal, and conse∣quently of England.

Lanceston, the County Town, bears from London West-South-West, and is distant there from 170 miles. Viz. from London to Salis∣bury, 70 miles, for the particulars of which 〈◊〉〈◊〉 refer you to Wiltshire; from thence to Shaft bury, 18; to Sherburn, 12 more; to Axminster 19; to Honiton, 7 more; thence to Exeter, 12. and to Lanceston, 32 more.

This Town is seated on the banks of a small River called Kensey, and not far from its fal into the Tamer. A Town of good Trade, an well inhabited; whose Market on Saturday

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is well frequented, and served with Provisions. Here are held the Assises for this County.

The other Market Towns are

  • Saltash, Sat.
  • Foway, Sat.
  • East-Lowe, Sat.
  • Padstow, Sat.
  • Grampound, Sat.
  • Tregny, Sat.
  • Helston, Sat.
  • Iiskerd, Sat.
  • Bdmin. Sat.
  • Stratton, Tue.
  • Truro, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Penrin, Wedn. Frid. & Sat.
  • S. Ives, Wedn. & Frid.
  • S. Colomb, Thu.
  • Falmouth, Thu.
  • Market-Jew, Thu.
  • Penzance, Thu.
  • Listhiel, Frid.
  • S. Germans, Frid.
  • Camelford, Frid.

Falmouth, the most-frequented Place in these Parts by Mariners, deserves a particular De∣scription. First it is called Falmouth, from its Situation at the Mouth of the River Fale; and that in a fertile Tract of Ground called Roseland, which contains several Parishes, and feeds great Flocks of Sheep.

The Haven before it is so safe and so capaci∣ous, that the Town has thriven of late very much upon it; the Creeks being coasted with steep Shores, and so large withal, that 100 Sail of Ships may safely ride at Anchor. Besides, it lieth more in the way of Trade to wind-driven Ships, than Plimouth in Devonshire. And over against it is the Castle called Pendennis, erected for the better security of this Coast by King Henry VIII.

But that which adds much of late to the Repu∣tation of Falmouth, is his Majesty's setling of a Sea-Post here for Spain and Portugal; whereby all immediate Correspondence with France is inter∣rupted, at least during this present War, and

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the Benefit of it cut off from that Kingdom. The Groyn, a Sea-Port Town of Gallicia in Spain, is the Place appointed to receive our Packet there; from thence to be distributed through all Places of Correspondence, both in Spain and Portugal. Lastly, this Town is of some note for giving the Title of Viscount to the Duke of Northumberland.

Further in the County Northward lies Truro a Town of good note, seated in the middle o two Streams that run into Falmouth Haven and giving the Title of Baron to the Right Ho∣nourable Charles Bodvile Roberts, Earl of Radnor, Penrin, another Town of note lies something nearer, but to the Northwest of Falmouth, on a Creek of Falmouth Haven. Penzance and Market-Jew stand over against one another, West and East of Mounts Bay, the first a good traded Town, the other but inconsiderable.

Eastward you will find Fouay, East and We Iowe, upon the South Sea; and on the North or Irish Sea, the Havens of Padstow and S. Ives The rest of the Market Towns are up in the Country.

This County (which formerly was part of the ancient Kingdom of the West Saxons, and the Inhabitants, together with those of Devonshire, Known among the old Romans by the Name o Danmonii) is now in the Diocese of Exeter.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knight of the Shire, no less than 42 Members to sit i Parliament, Viz. two out of each of these Towns, Lanceston, Liskerd, Liskil or Liswithie Truro, Bodmin, Hlston, Saltash, Camelford, We and East Lowe, Grampond, Penrin, Tregny, B••••∣ney, S. Ives, Fouay, S. Germains, S. Michae Newport, S. Mawes, and Kellington.

When this County was under the Earls o

Page 45

Cornwal, they gave great Immunities and Li∣erties to those that workt in the Mines. And when this Earldom reverted to the Crown, in King Edwards Time, he gave it to his Son, surnamed the Black Prince, advancing that Title to that of a Dukedom, and erected a Lord War∣••••en of the Stanneries, to have the Government thereof. Since which time the eldest Sons of the Kings of England, whether it be by Birth, or by the Death of their elder Brothers, are ipso facto Dukes of Cornwal, as they are Earls of Chester, without any Creation; being at age to sue their Livery, how young soever.

Of the Isles of Scilly.

West of Cornwal, about 24 miles distant, ies a Cluster of small Islands, called by us the Isles of Scilly, by the Dutch Sorlings, and by the ancient Greeks Hesperides from their Western Situation, Cassiterides from the Tin-Mines they found amongst them. They are reckoned to be 145 in Number, most of 'em very fruitful in Corn and Pasturage, and plenti∣fully stored with Conies, Cranes, Swans, He∣ons, and other wild Fowl.

Scilly, which communicates its Name to the rest, was formerly counted the chief of these slands. But now S. Maries has got the pre∣minency, being about 8 miles in circuit, the biggest and most fertile of all, having the con∣veniency of a large and commodious Harbour, and fortified with a strong Castle built in the Reign of Q. Elizabeth.

These Islands, after the Romans had forsaken their Holds in Britain, returned again into the power and possession of the Natives. From whom it was subdued, and added to this Crown, by Athelstane the eighth King of England, and since that time governed, as a part of Corn∣wal.

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CHAP. VII.

Of Cumberland, Derbyshire, and Devonshire.

Cumber∣land.

CƲMBERLAND is a Maritime Coun∣ty in the North-West Parts of England. Bounded on the East by Northumberland and Westmorland; on the West, by the Irish Sea; on the North, by Scotland; on the South by Westmorland and Lancashire.

Its Length from North to South is about 5 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, some thing less than 40. The Whole divided, no into Hundreds, but Wards, five in Number wherein 58 Parishes, and 15 Market Towns.

This Country is generally Mountainous, and some of the Hills both very high and stee Those of most note are Skiddaw, Haraknot, Black coum, and Wry-nose. On the Top of this last on the high Way-side, are placed 3 stones, ca∣led the Shire-stones, standing within a foot o each other, one in this County, another i Westmorland, and the third in Lancashire.

As for Rivers and Meres, here is abundance •••• them; the principal River known by the Nam of Eden.

Here the Air is pretty sharp and piercing though the Country be something sheltered b the Northern Hills.

And, as hilly as this Country is, yet the Hil

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thereof are not so barren, but that they feed great Flocks of Sheep, and other Cattel, whilst ts fruitful Valleys bear good Crops of Corn, and its rich Meadows excellent Pasture.

The Sea and Rivers, on the other side, strive n a manner to furnish it with plenty of Fish, and wild Fowl. And, which is remarkable, here they have Muscles that bear a sort of Pearl.

But, besides Rivers, here are a great ma∣ny Meers (or Lakes) yielding great plenty of Fish; but chiefly Ʋlles Water, bordering both upon Cumberland and Westmorland.

In the Bowels of the Earth, not only Coals for Fewel, but also Lead and Copper, are found in great plenty.

Of all the Counties in England, this shews the most Roman Antiquities. The principal of which is the Picts Wall, a prodigious Stone-wall built by the Romans for their security, against the Incursion of the raging Picts; the track whereof in many places is yet to be seen. This Wall was 8 foot broad, and 12 high, reaching cross the Country from Carlisle to Newcastle, that is, from Sea to Sea, at least 80 miles. Thus it ascended and descended over great Crags and high Hills, with Watch-Towers erected at every thousand Paces, in which Souldiers were kept for its Defence.

At Salkeld, on the Eden, is a Trophy of Victo∣ry erected, called by the Inhabitants Long Meg and her Daughters. This Monument consists of 7 Stones, each 10 foot above ground, and one of them (namely Long Meg) is 15 foot high.

Carlisle, the chief Place of this County, bears from London North-North-West, and is di∣stant from it 235 miles, thus. From London to

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Buckingham 44, for the particulars of which I refer you to Buckinghamshire; to Coventry 30 more; from thence to Lichfield, 20; to Sto 16 more; thence to Warington, 32; to an••••∣ster, 45; to Kendall, 16 more; and from thence to Carlisle, 32.

A City pleasantly seated on the South Bank of the River Eden, within few miles of its fa into the Sea, being watered besides East an West with two lesser Rivers, the Pettrel an Canda, at their fall into the Eden. So that it i in a manner surrounded with three Rivers, ex∣cept towards the South. This is a Town o great Antiquity, flourishing even in the time o the Romans; upon whose Departure it suffer∣ed much by the Scots and Picts. Afterward being utterly defaced by the Danes, it lay de∣jected for about 200 years, till William Ruf•••• rebuilt it. After him, Henry the First, hi Brother and Successor, made it a Bishops See. Thus by degrees it recovered it self, being now a fine City, well inhabited, and a Place of good Trade, chiefly for Fustians. It is begirt with fine Walls, fortified with a Castle and Cittade beautified with a Cathedral of curious Work∣manship, and dignify'd with the Title of an Earl∣dom, at this time injoy'd by the Right Honou∣rable Edward Howard Earl of Carlisle, &c. De∣rived to him from his Father Charles Howar created Earl of Carlisle by King Charles II. An∣no 1661. And the said Charles, Son and He•••• of Sir William Howard, was great Grand-chil of the Lord William Howard, third Son of Tho∣mas Duke of Norfolk. In the Year 1663. h was sent Embassador Extraordinary by the sai King Charles, to the Courts of Moscovy, Sweden and Denmark. And some Years after, h was sent again, with the same Character, t

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the King of Sweden, to whom he carried the Garter.

The other Market Towns are

  • Egremont, Sat.
  • Ravenglas, Sat.
  • Keswick, Sat.
  • Alston-Moor, Sat.
  • Abbey-holm, Sat.
  • Cockermouth, Mund.
  • Perth, Tue.
  • Wigton, Tue.
  • Brampton, Tue.
  • Bootle, Wedn.
  • White-Haven, Thu.
  • Ireby, Thu.
  • Kirkswald, Thu.
  • Longtown Thu.

Amongst which Perith, or Penrith, seated between Eimont a River on the South-side and Lowther another River on the West, is counted the second Town of note in this County; being large, well built, and in∣habited by Tradesmen, but Tanners especi∣ally.

Cockermouth, a goodly Town, is so called from its Situation on the River Cocker, near its fall into the Derwent, by which two Rivers it is almost incompassed. It lies about 8 miles from the Sea, between two Hills, upon one of which stands the Church, and upon the other a Castle. Its chief Trade is of course broad Cloaths, here made. And here is a Custom, common to most other Market Towns of this County, to hire Servants at their Fairs; to which end such as want either Service or Servants do resort hither.

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Egremont and Ravenglass, are seated not sar from the Sea. The first on the Banks of a River, over which it has two Bridges. Ravenglass, be∣twixt two Rivers, which together with the Sea incompass three Parts of it.

White-Haven, is situate on a Creek of the Sea, at the North end of a Hill, where is a great Rock (or Quarrey) of hard white Stone, which gives name unto it. This Harbour is of late much improved in its Buildings, being well frequented and inhabited, and driving a good Trade to Ireland, Scotland, Chester, Bristol, and other Places. Whose chief Trade is of Salt, and Coals here plentifully digged up, for which they bring in exchange several good Commodities.

Keswick, seated in a Valley hemmed in with Hills, has been a famous Town for Copper Mines, and much frequented by mineral Men, who had here many Smelting Houses. But now it is gone to decay. Not far from this Town is dug up Wadd, or Black Lead, in great plenty.

Formerly they reckoned in this County 25 Castles, few of which are remaining, most of them being decayed, and gone to ruin.

Lastly, this County (which in the time of the Heptarchy was part of the Kingdom of Northumberland, and whose Inhabitants, as well as those of most part of the North besides, were called Brigantes by the ancient Romans) is part∣ly in the Diocese of Carlisle, and partly in That of Chester. For the South Part of it, called Copeland, lying betwixt the Rivers Duddon and Darwent, is within the Arch. Deaconry of Rich∣mond in Chester-Diocese; and all the rest of the County in the Diocese of Carlisle.

Out of this County; besides the two Knights of the Shire, there are but four Members chosen

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to sit in Parliament; 2 from Carlisle, and 2 from Cockermouth.

In the North Parts of it, is a Tract called Gillesland, from whence the Earl of Carlisle in∣titles himself Baron Dacre of Gillesland; and South-Westward, near the Sea, stands the Barony of Millum.

In short, this County became first an Earl∣dom in the Reign of King Henry VIII, who bestowed the Title upon Henry Lord Clifford, Anno 1525, in whose Issue it continued till the Year 1642, the last that injoyed it being also a Henry Clifford. Of an Earldom it became a Duke∣dom in the Person of the late Illustrious Prince Rupert, second Son of Frederick Prince Elector Palatine, and of Elizabeth his Wife, the only Daughter of King James the first; being Crea∣ted Duke of Cumberland, and Earl of Holder∣ness, by King Charles I. his Uncle, Anno 1643. He died without Issue at Whitehall, Nov. 29. 1682. And the Title of Duke of Cumberland is now in the Person of his Royal Highness, Prince George of Denmark.

Of the Isle of Man.
Isle of Man

The Isle of Man, lying most of it opposite to Cumberland, between this County and the North of Ireland, this I think therefore to be the most proper Place to take notice of it.

This Island runs in Length, from North to South, about 30 miles; and in Breadth, where it is broadest, 10 miles. The Whole divided into two Parts, North and South; the Inhabitants of the one having affinity with the Scotch, and the other with the Irish. And in these Parts, de∣fended by Two Castles, are reckoned 17 Parishes, and but 5 Market Towns.

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It is generally an High-land on the Sea-Coast, and that well garded with Rocks. The middle part of it runs up into high Hills. The highest of all, called Seafull, has this very re∣markable in it, That from the Top of it, on a clear Day, one may easily behold three King∣doms at once, viz. England, Scotland, and Ireland; England Eastward, Scotland Northward, and Ire∣land Westward.

The Air of this Island is sharp, and subject to high Winds; but 'tis healthful. And, as sharp as it is in Winter, yet the Frosts are short, and the Snow does not ly very long in the Val∣leys.

The Soil is pretty fruitful, both in Corn and Pasture; affording good store of Wheat and o∣ther Grain, and feeding good Flocks of Sheep and Herds of Cattle, but none of the biggest size. Here are also red Deer, abundance of Conies, and Fowl of sundry sorts. In a little adjacent Island, called the Isle of Calf, is abun∣dance of Puffins, a sort of Sea Fowl that breeds in Cony-holes, chiefly used for their Feathers, and Oyl made of them. But their Flesh being pickled or salted, as it has a Fish-like taste, so it comes little short of Anchoves. And as for Fish, both the Sea and Rivers yield great plenty of it.

Its chief Places are Douglas, Laxi, and Ram∣sy on the East Shore; Rushin, on the South, and Peel, with its strong Castle, on the West Shore.

'Twas about the Year 1340, that this Island was conquered from the Scots by William Mon∣tacute, Earl of Salisbury, who was thereupon honoured with the Title of King of Man. Af∣terwards it was sold to the Lord Scrope; who, being convicted of Treason, forfeited it to the

Page 53

Crown. Henry IV. gave it to Henry Pierce Earl of Northumberland, the last that kept it with the Title of King. But, he proving also false to his Sovereign, the King gave it to William Lord Stanley; whose Grandchild Thomas Lord Stanley was created Earl of Derby. In whose House this Estate has continued hitherto, with the Title of Lord of Man, though a King in effect.

For he has here all kind of Civil Power and Jurisdiction over the Inhabitants, and the very Nomination of the Bishop of Man; but still under the Fief and Sovereignty of the Crown of England. And as to the Bishop, he must be presented to the King for his Royal Assent, then to the Archbishop of York for his Conse∣cration. Which is the Reason why the Bishop of Man is no Lord of Parliament, none being admitted to that Honour, but such as hold im∣mediately of the King himself.

Derbyshire.

DERBYSHIRE, or (as some spell it) DARBYSHIRE, an Inland County, is bound∣ed on the East by Nottinghamshire; on the West, by Cheshire and Staffordshire; on the North, by Yorkshire; and on the South, by Lei∣cestershire. And it lies so in respect to the rest of ENGLAND, that the South Parts of this County are in a manner the Center of it.

It is in Length from North to South, about 34 miles; and in Breadth, from East to West, 16. The Whole divided into six Hundreds, wherein 106 Parishes, and 10 Market Towns.

The Temperature of the Air of this County is very wholsom, as most of the Inland Coun∣ties are.

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Next to the River Trent, wherewith the South Parts of it are irrigated, that of chief note is Derwent, which crossing the Country from North to South, empties it self into the Trent, and so divides the County into East and West.

The Soil, in the South and East Parts, is ve∣ry fruitful, and yields both good Grass and Corn. But the North and West Parts, being both Hilly and Stony, with a black and mossy barren Ground, are not so fertile. Yet they are not without some rich Valleys; and on the Hills themselves are bred abundance of very good (though not very large) Sheep.

For Fewel, it is not beholden to Wood, the Woods having been destroyed in a great mea∣sure by the Countries Iron-Works, Lead-mines, and Coal-Delfs. But 'tis so well stored with Coals, that it supplies with this sort of Fewel many neighbouring Counties, as Leicester, Nor∣thampton, Rutland, and Lincoln. Whose In∣habitants frequently bring Barley to sell at Darby, and load themselves back with Coals.

For Buildings, it affords, not only good Clay for Bricks, but also store of Free-Stone, or du∣rable Greet Stone; and in many parts Lime∣stone, both useful in Building, and for manu∣ring the Ground. Here is also Alabaster, Cry∣stal, black and grey Marble, not only very du∣rable, but such as polishes well.

As for Mill-Stones, and Whet-stones, here's whole Quarries of 'em; in the working where∣of a great many hands are imployed, before they come to be dispersed over the Nation.

But the chiefest Commodity of this Country is Lead, which for goodness or Plenty yields to no Place in the World. Famous for this is

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the Peak of Derbyshire, as well as for its Quar∣ries; but particularly for its three wonderful Caves.

This Peak ly's amongst the Mountains, in the North-West Parts; and its three Caves, of a wonderful vast height, length, and depth, are known by the Names of Devils Arse, Elden∣hole, and Pools hole. From the Devils Arse a Water comes, which is said to ebb and flow 4 times in an hour, (as the Well in the Peak Fo∣rest) and to keep its just Tides. Noted besides for the strange Irregularities of the Rocks with∣in the Water.

Eldenhole is very spacious, but wih a low and narrow entrance. The Waters which trickle down from the top thereof do congeal into Stone, and hang like Isicles in the root there∣of. Some are hollow within, and grow Ta∣per-wise, very white, and not unlike to Cry∣stal.

But the greatest Wonder of all is that of Buxton-Wells. Nine Springs arise out of a Rock in the compass of 8 or 9 Yards, eight of which are warm, and the ninth very cold. These Springs run from under a square Building of Free Stone, and about 300 foot off receive an∣other hot Spring from a Well inclosed with four flat Stones; near unto which another very cold Spring bubbles up. These Waters are experi∣mentally found good for the Stomach and Si∣news, and good to bathe in.

And now I come to Mineral Waters, I can∣not but mention Kedlaston Well, Quarndon and Stanly Springs. The first of which being in Ked∣lston Parish, is noted for having cured (as 'tis said) the Leprosy, and for being singular in the Cure of old Ulcers. Quarndon Springs are two Springs about a mile and a half from Derby,

Page 56

much of the nature of Tunbridge-Waters in Kent, and the Spaws in Yorkshire, as strong of the Mineral, and as effectual in the Operation. As for Stanly-Spring, 'tis of the same nature, but not so strong.

But about Wirksworth there's a warm and a cold Spring, so near each other, that one may put one hand in the cold, and the other in the warm.

Derby, the Shire-Town, from whence the County it self is denominated, bears from Lon∣don North and by West, and is distant there∣from 98 miles, thus. From London to Leicester, 78, as you may see in Leicestershire; thence to Lougborough, 8; and to Derby 12 more.

This Town is seated upon the West Bank of Derwent (from whence probably the Name of Derby is extracted) over which there is a fine Bridge of free Stone, and upon the Bridge a Chap∣pel called St. Maries Chappel. But, besides Der∣went, which empties it self but 6 miles lower into the Trent, this Town has the Conveniency of a Brook rising Westward, and running through it under nine several Bridges.

'Tis a large, populous, and rich Place, few inland Towns equalizing it. Here are five Parish Churches, of which that of All-Saints is the fairest. Whose Tower-Steeple (in which are 8 tunable Bells) built at the only Charge of the young Men and Maids about the Reign of Q. Mary, is equalled for height and beauty by few in the Nation. Here is also a fair Hall, built not many years since of free Stone at the Coun∣ties Charge, where the Assizes are constantly kept.

In short, 'tis a Place of good Trade and Re∣sort, no less famous for good Ale than Banbu∣ry for its Cakes and Cheese. Here is chiefly a

Page 57

great Vent for Barley, which they make into Malt, and so sell it again in Cheshire, Lan∣cashire, and the North of this County. Its Market is on Fridays, which is very great for Cattel, Corn, and all Provisions; besides small Markets on Wednesdays, and Saturdays.

Lastly, this Town is dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, now in the person of the Right Honourable William Stanley, Earl of Derby, and Lord of the Isle of Man. Descen∣ded to him from his Ancestor Thomas Lord Stanley, and of Man, created Earl of Derby, by King Henry VII. Anno 1486. Which Title was first injoy'd by the Earls of Ferrers and Derby, and afterwards by several Princes of the Royal Family, till it came (as I said before) to Thomas Lord Stanley, by Creation.

The other Market Towns are

  • Chesterfield, Sat.
  • Ashbourn, Sat.
  • Alfreton, Mund.
  • Bakewell, Mund.
  • Wirksworth, Tue.
  • Tideswal, Wedn.
  • Dronfield, Thu.
  • Bolsover, Frid.
  • Drawfield,

Amongst which Chesterfield is pleasantly seat∣ed in a good Soil, for the most part on the South-side of a little Hill, and that between two small Rivers. A Town which, by the Ruins of it, does seem to be of good Anti∣quity, and therefore likely to have had some more ancient Name, now buried in its Ruins. It was made a free Borough in the time of King John. And hard by it was the Battel fought between King Henry III and his Ba∣rons, in which Robert de Ferrers Earl of Derby being taken Prisoner lost his Estate and Dignity,

Page 58

though not his Life. But that wherein it has most cause to glory is, that from an ordi∣nary Market Town, it is become the Seat of an Earldom, the Stile and Title of Earl of Chester∣field being conferred by King Charles I. upon Philip Lord Stanhop of Shelford, created Earl of Chesterfield Anno 1628. From whom it descen∣ded next, by Henry his eldest Son, to the Right Honourable Philip Lord Stanhop, the pre∣sent Earl of Chesterfield.

Wirksworth is so called from the Worth of the Lead-Works. And 'tis the greatest Lead-Market in England.

This County (formerly Part of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Coritani) is now in the Diocese of Lich∣field.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Parliament Men, and these two by Derby Town.

But, before I leave this County, I cannot but observe that, of all Parts of England (which in general is famous for its Stone-Bridges) Derbyshire is of special note upon that very ac∣count. Witness, amongst the rest, Burton-Bridge on the River Trent, in the Borders of Staffordshire, which has no less than 35 large Stone Arches. 'Twas at this Bridge that Edward II. put to flight Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and many of the Barons. Here is also Swarkeston Bridge, over the same Ri∣ver, reputed to be near a mile in length; but much of it is rather a Causey than a Bridge. To which add Monks-Bridge, over the Dove, to say nothing more of St. Maries Bridge at Derby.

Page 59

Scarsdale, a Division (or Part) of this Coun∣ty, wherein stands Chesterfield, is a Valley in∣compassed with Rocks and Mountains, as the Name imports, Dale in the Saxons Language signifying a Valley, and Scaire a craggy Rock. Observable only for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Robert Leak, the present Earl of Scarsdale. Derived to him from his Father Nicholas, Son of Francis Leak, Lord Deyncourt of Sutton, Created Earl of Scarsdale by King Charles I. Anno 1645.

Devonshire

DEVONSHIRE, a Maritime County in the West of England, lies open to the Sea, both Northward and Southward; on the North being bounded with the North Sea, otherwise called the Severn Sea, or S. George's Channel, which parts it from Wales; and on the South, with the South Sea, commonly called the Chan∣nel, which parts England from France. But Eastward it is bounded by Somersetshire and Dorsetshire; and Westward, by Cornwal.

It contains in Length, from East to West, a∣bout 52 miles; in Breadth, from North to South, 46. The whole divided into 33 Hundreds, wherein 34 Parishes, and 32 Market Towns.

The Air of this County is sharp and whole∣som. The Soil, in some Parts, generally beauti∣fied with fresh and pleasant Meadows, in other Parts shaded with great store of Woods, but in few places not so fit for Corn as most other Counties. 'Tis true, good Husbandry supplies that Defect, and adds unto it by cost and industry what it wants by Nature.

Amongst the many Rivers wherewith 'tis abundantly watered, the Tamer which parts it from Cornwal, the Turridge, the Taw, Ex, and Dart are the chiefest.

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In short, this County is well provided with Flesh, Fish, and Fowl. And as for Sea-Fish, Pilchards and Herrings chiefly are here fished in great abundance. Noted besides for its Wools and Clothings, the best and finest Ker∣seys in the Kingdom being here made; but chiefly, for its Tin and Lead-Mines.

Exeter, the chief Place of it, ly's West-South-West from London, about 130 miles, thus. Viz. from London to Salisbury 70 miles, as you may see in the Description of Wiltshire. From Salisbury to Shaftsbury, 15; and to Sherburn, 12 more; from Sherburn to Crookham, 10; thence to Axminster, 9; and to Exeter, 22 more.

This City is so called from the River Ex, on the East-banks whereof it is seated, and over which it has a fair Stone bridge, not above 12 or 15 miles from its fall into the Sea. 'Tis a large and well compacted City, and a Place of good Trade. But the River is so choaked up, that all Vessels are forced to load and unload their Goods at Topsham, about 3 miles di∣stance. Within its Walls and Suburbs are reckoned, besides the Cathedral, no less than 15 Parish-Churches. It has the Priviledge of two Markets weekly, kept on Wednesdays and Fridays.

Noted besides for giving the Title of Duke, Marquess, and Earl to several noble Personages. Of Duke, to John Holland, Earl of Huntington, made Duke of Exeter by King Richard II; and to Tho. Beaufort, Earl of Dorset, created Duke of Exeter by King Henry V. Next to whom this Title was injoy'd by John, and Henry Holland, both of them Admi∣rals. Afterwards the Title of Marquess of Exeter was by King Henry VIII. conferred

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upon Henry Courtney, Earl of Devonshire. Suc∣ceeded in it by his Son, Edward Courtney, with whom this Title died. But in the Reign of King James I, Tho. Cecil, Lord Burleigh, was by that King created Earl of Exeter, Anno 1605. From whom is descended in a right Line the Right Honourable John Cecil, the present Earl of Exeter.

The other Market Towns are

  • Kings-bridge, Sat.
  • Plimpton, Sat.
  • Totness, Sat.
  • Ashburton, Sat.
  • Chidley, Sat.
  • Merton, Sat.
  • Okehampton, Sat.
  • Tavestock, Sat.
  • Torrington, Sat.
  • Holsworthy, Sat.
  • South-Molton, Sat.
  • Columpton, Sat.
  • Crediton. Sat.
  • Hrniton, Sat.
  • Axminster, Sat.
  • Plimouth, Mund. & Thu.
  • Bediford, Tue.
  • Tiverton, Tue.
  • Ottery, Tue.
  • Dodbrook, Wed.
  • Newton-Abbot, Wed.
  • Modberry, Thu.
  • Culliton, Thu.
  • Bow, Thu.
  • Chumleigh, Thu.
  • Dartmouth,, Frid,
  • Barnstaple, Frid,
  • Hatherly, Frid,

Besides Ilfarcomb, Combemerton, Bradnidge, and Sidmouth, whose Market-Days I am ignorant of.

Among which Plimouth and Dartmouth are two noted Harbours in the Channel, but the first especially. Seated between the Tamer and the Plime, at both their falls into the Sea; the Plime being but a small River, from whence Plimouth however has took its Denomination. 'Tis one of the best Ports in England, having a safe and commodious Haven, strongly fortifi∣ed on both sides. A Place of great importance

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to the Kingdom, not only for his Majesty's, but for Merchants Ships outward or home∣ward bound, to anchor in, upon any Casualty. The Conveniency whereof has so improved this Town, from a poor fishing Village, that it is now grown up to Stateliness. Lastly, this Place is dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, now in the person of the Right Honourable Other Windsor, Earl of Plimouth, &c. Derived to him from his Grandfather Thomas, Created Earl of Plimouth by King Charles II. But the first that injoy'd this Title was Charles Fitz Charles, commonly called Don Carlos, created Baron of Dartmouth, Viscount Totnes, and Earl of Plimouth, Anno 1675. who soon after died at Tangier.

Dartmouth, so called from its Situation at the Mouth of the River Dart, is also a good Port Town, having a commodious Haven, well fre∣quented and traded unto. There's in it three Parish Churches. And it gives the Title of Baron to the Right Honourable George Leg, made Baron of Dartmouth by King Charles II.

Few miles from Dartmouth, to the North-East, is the Bay called Torbay, of chief note for the Descent here made by his present Ma∣jesty and his Land-Forces from Holland, upon the fifth of Nov. (being Gun-powder Treason Day) 1688.

From Torbay to the Coast of Dorsetshire, there is not a Sea-Town of any note, but Sid∣mouth. Which indeed was a good Port Town, as well as Seaton and Budley near adjoyning, be∣fore their Havens were choaked up with Sands. Now 'tis but a small Fisher-Town.

On the North Coast you will find Combe∣merton, Ilfarcomb, and Hartland, all of them but mean Towns.

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But, at some distance from that Sea, lies Barnstaple, a good trading Place, seated on the River Yaw, over which it has a large Bridge.

Further Westward you will find Bediford, Torrington, and Hatherley, all three on the Tow∣ridge. Over which River Bediford has a large Stone-bridge of arched Work, consisting of 24 Peers; and so high, that a Vessel of 50 or 60 Tuns may pass under it. Which Accommo∣dation has made it a Place of good account and trade. Torrington, a pretty large Town, is chiefly noted, for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Arthur Herbert, lately created Earl of Torrington, by our present King, and made Lord Admiral of Their Ma∣jesties Fleet. Whereas this Title was before in the Person of the Duke of Albemarle de∣ceased.

Tavestock is seated on the Tave; Modberry, betwixt the Arme and the Aune; Totness, on the Dart, and Ashburton near it; Chidley, on the Tinge; Crediton, upon Credit and Forton, both which run into the Ex; Tiverton, at the fall of the Leman into the Ex; Columpton, on the Culme; Honiton, on the Otter; Axminster, on the Ax.

Totness, among the rest, is an ancient little Town, about 6 miles from the Influx of the Dart into the Sea. It stands on the fall of a Hill, lying East and West. Honoured once with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of George, Lord Carew of Clopton, Created Earl of Totness by King Charles I. Anno 1625. He was Son of George Carew, Dr. of Divinity, Arch-Deacon of Totness, and afterwards ad∣vanced to the Deanry of Windsor. But, dying without Issue male, the Title died with him.

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In the Reign of King Charles II. this Town gave the Title of Viscount (as is said before) to Charles Fitz Charles, Earl of Plimouth but that Title also went with him into the Grave.

Tiverton, (otherwise called Twiford-Town) is a Town of good account for the Cloths he•••• made, which create a good Trade among th Inhabitants.

Crediton, seated betwixt two Hills, and in rich Soil, is divided into two Parts, the on called the East Town, and the other the West. 'Tis very well inhabited, and drives a good Trade of Serges. There is a fair Churc in it, built Cathedral-wise; this Town having been formerly the Bishops See, before it was by King Edward the Confessour trans∣ferred to Exeter.

Lastly, this County (which formerly wa Part of the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, and its Inhabitants, together with those of Corn∣wal, known by the name of Danmonii, among the ancient Romans) is now in the Diocese o Exeter.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, no less than 2 Members to sit in Parliament. Viz. two ou of each of these following Towns, Exeter, Plimouth, Plimpton, Totness, Okehampton, Honito Barnstaple, Tavestock, Ashburton, Tiverton, Bera∣stan, and two more out of these three Town Clifton, Dartmouth, and Hardness.

This County has had Earls of several Fami∣lies. Of which the Rivers and Courtneys hel the Title long, as now the Cavendishes may do, who have possession of it in the fourth Generation. The first Earl of this Family was William Lord Cavendish of Harwick, created

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Earl of Devon by King James I. Anno 1618. And from him is descended in a right Line the Right Honourable William Cavendish, the pre∣sent Earl of Devonshire, Lord Steward of the King's Houshold.

To conclude, over against Devonshire, a good way off in the Severn Sea, is an Island called Lundey, not above 5 miles long, and 2 broad; but begirt about with dangerous unapproach∣able Rocks, having but one entrance into it, and that so narrow, that two men can hardly go a-breast. An Island, though situate in the midst of the salt and brackish Ocean, far e∣nough from any Land, that yields notwith∣standing many Springs of fresh Water for the Use of its Inhabitants, who dwell for the most part in a Town of the same Name with the Island.

CHAP. VIII.

Of Dorsetshire, Durham, and Essex.

Dorsetshire

DORSETSHIRE, or the County of Dorset, is another Maritime Coun∣ty in the West of England. Bounded Eastward by Hampshire; Westward, by Devon∣shire and Somersetshire; Northward, by Wilt∣shire, and part of Somersetshire; and South∣ward, by the British Sea, commonly called the Channel.

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Its Length from East to West is about 4 miles; and its Breadth, where broadest, 25. The Whole divided into 29 Hundreds wherein 248 Parishes, and 29 Marke Towns.

Here the Air is very good and healthful, an the Country as pleasant, being watered wit many fine Streams, gliding through its ric Meadows. The principal whereof are the Stow∣er, and the Frome.

The Soil is fat and fruitful, abounding with rich Pastures, and such Corn-fields as seldom deceive the hopes of the Husbandman. S that here is abundance of great and smal Cattel, and commonly great plenty of Corn.

The North Parts, being somewhat flat, have the richest Meadows, and are not desti∣tute of Woods and Timber-trees; but in Win∣ter sadly clogged with Dirt. An Inconveni∣ency the South Parts are freer from, as consisting most of Hills or Downs, which being over∣spread with innumerable Flocks of Sheep, proves no small profit to the Inhabitants. And here are many (though not large) Valleys, in which most Towns and Gentlemens Houses are seated, the better to avoid those sharp Blasts this Southern Part is subject unto, lying so open and destitute of Woods as it does.

Fish and wild Fowl here's great plenty of, both from its Sea and Rivers.

Dorchester, the chief Place hereof, bears from London South-West and by West, and is distant therefrom, about 100 miles, thus. To Basingstoke, 39; from thence to Stokebridge, 16; to Dunkton, 12 more; thence to Cranburn, 9; to Blandford, 9 more; and 12 from thence to Dorchester.

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A Town of great antiquity, as appears by any pieces of the Roman Coyn found near 〈◊〉〈◊〉. Once of a large Compass, as may be con∣ctured by the tract of the Walls and Trenches; ut so spoiled and plundered by the Danes, who ••••so pulled down the Walls, that it could never ecover its former wealth and beauty.

It was also fortified and set out with a oodly Castle; which, being decay'd and ruin∣us, was converted into a Monastery, and after∣ards demolished. I come now to its present tate.

This Town is pleasantly seated on the South∣••••de of the River Frome, and on the Roman Causey called Via fossa, about 5 miles from the ea. It consists of three fair Streets, and as ma∣y Parish Churches; the Inhabitants driving a Trade of Kersies, and other Things. Here is 〈◊〉〈◊〉 good Market kept on Saturdays, and this is the Place where the County Assises are also kept. Noted besides for the Title of Marquess it gave nce to Henry Lord Pierrepont, Created Marquess f Dorchester by King Charles I. Anno 1645. And in the late Reign, for giving the Title of Countess to the Lady Catherine Sidley, advanced o that Dignity by King James the Second.

The other Market Towns are

  • Shaftsbury Sat.
  • landford Sat.
  • arham Sat.
  • Middleton, Mund.
  • Pool, Mund. and Thu.
  • Weymouth Tue. & Frid.
  • Melcomb Regis Tue. & Frid.
  • Cerne-Abbas Wedn.
  • Cranborn Wedn.
  • Abbots-Bury Thu.
  • Corfe-Castle Thu.
  • Sturminster Thu.
  • Frampton Thu.
  • Sherburn, Thu. & Sat.
  • Wimbern Minster, Frid.
  • ...Lime,
  • ...Bridport
  • ...Evershot
  • ...Bemyster

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Among which Lime, Bridport, Weymouth, and Melcomb Regis, Pool, and Warham, are so many Harbours, and Weymouth the principal.

Now Weymouth and Melcomb Regis stand op∣posite to one another, on each side the River Wey, where it falls into the Sea. But, of the two, Melcomb much surpasses Weymouth fo Conveniency of Situation and Buildings. And yet abroad all goes now under the Name of Weymouth, since they were both, by Act of Parliament, made but one Corporation; and the Occasion of it thus. These two Towns having for some time injoy'd alike the Pri∣viledges and Immunities of the Haven, lying in the bosom of them, at last there arose a great Controversy between them. And, by their continual Suits, they still wearied the Lords of the Council and the Judges, till by an Act of Parliament in the Reign of Q. Eliza∣beth they were Incorporated into one Body, to be governed by one Mayor, with Aldermen, and other Sub-Officers. Upon which imme∣diately they joyned themselves together by a fair Bridge of Timber now in being; but stil they send each of 'em two Burgesses to Parlia∣ment. Lastly, Weymouth is of some note be∣sides, for giving the Title of Viscount to the Right Honourable Tho. Thynne, the present Vis∣count Weymouth.

Lime, otherwise called Lime Regis, is seated in the Borders next to Devonshire, and is so named from a River of that Name, which run through the midst of the Town, and falls into the Sea. The Town is large, and its Cobb 〈◊〉〈◊〉 safe Harbour. Which, being industriously made in the Sea for Ships to ride in, is as care∣fully looked afer, and kept in good re∣pair.

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This Place is noted most of all for the late Duke of Monmouth's Landing here with his small Force from Holland in the late Reign, which brought him shortly after to his tragi∣cal End. Near unto it is Charmouth a Village, where the Danes did twice land their Forces, when they came to subdue En∣gland.

Bridport, East from Lime, was a Town of good account in Edward the Confessor's Time. 'Tis seated low and dirty, not above 2 miles from the Sea, between two Rivers, that meet∣ing with a little Rill about a mile lower mix their Streams together, and make a fit Place for a good Harbour, as it was in former times. But now 'tis choakt up with Sands. The Town however is still a good Market-Town, and chiefly noted for Hemp. Inso∣much that once 'twas the only Place appointed for the twisting of Cordage and Ropes for the Navy of England, as well in respect of the adjoyning Soil yielding great store of excel∣lent Hemp, as for the skill of the People in twisting it.

Pool, a Haven-Town in the furthest East Parts of this County, is so seated upon an In∣et of the Sea (called Luckford Lake) that 'tis inclosed on all sides with it; except Northward, where it admits entrance only by one Gate.

This Town, from a mean Hamlet consisting of a few Fishermens-Houses in the Reign of Edward III, grew to be a Market Town of good Trade; and, by reason of its large and safe Harbour, increased so that Henry VI. granted it the Priviledge of a Haven, and licensed the Mayor to wall it in. Then be∣gan the Inhabitants to abound in Wealth; who, to free themselves from Subjection to

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the County, purchased the Priviledge of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 County. But now it has lost much of its for¦mer glory.

In this Haven the Sea, contrary to all o¦ther Parts in England, ebbs and flows 〈◊〉〈◊〉 times in 24 hours. Viz. first at a South-East and North-West Moon, and the secon time at a South-by-East and a North-by-We•••• Moon.

Warham is seated on the West of, and op∣posite to Pool, at the Influx of the Frome an Biddle into Luckford Lake. Where it had 〈◊〉〈◊〉 good Harbour for Ships, with all the Advan∣tages of a strong Wall defended by a Castle, and of rich Inhabitants. Till being crushed by the frequent Shocks of ill Fortune, nothing o its ancient Glory remained but the Shadow▪ its Castle being wholly ruinated, its Have choaked up, and most of its Churches pulle down and demolished.

Shaftsbury, an Inland Town, lies in the Northern Verge of this County, and near th Borders of Wiltshire. It stands lofty upon a high Hill, in the form of a full-bent Bow▪ where it injoys not only a serene and healthfu Air, but also a large and delightful Prospect Here Canute, the first Danish King that sway∣ed the English Scepter, ended his Days. I its flourishing Time it had ten Parish Churches, now reduced to three; to which belong abou 500 Houses, built of free Stone, with which the Hill abounds. Its Market, which is kept on Saturdays, is very considerable for mo•••• sorts of Provisions, and far exceeding all the adjacent Market Towns. Lastly, in the Reig of Charles the Second, it was honoured in giving the Title of Earl to that sagacious Statesman, Anthony Earl of Shaftsbury; since

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devolved by his death to his eldest Son and Heir, the Right Honourable Anthony Ash∣ey Cooper, the present Earl of Shaftsbury.

Sturminster, Blandford, and Wimborn-minster, are all three seated on the River Stowr. Over which Sturminster has a fair Stone-bridge, lead∣ing to Newton; a noted Place for the remains of an ancient Castle near adjoyning, which was the Seat of the West-Saxon Kings.

Blandford is a fair, large, and well compacted Town, well inhabited, and neighboured with Gentry. Wimborn-Minster, is seated in a ertile Soil, and is pretty well frequented and nhabited. But tis a Town of more antiquity, han beauty.

Cranborn and Sherburn are also Towns of great ntiquity, The first seated near the Spring of a River that runs into the Stowr, and having a Chase which extends it self almost to Salisbury. Sherborn, on the Ill, is fairly seated, and well watered. 'Tis divided into two Parts, that which lies near the Castle (which is old, and in part ruinated) being called the Castle-Town.

Middleton, Cerne-Abbas, and Frampton do not y far asunder. All three but mean, and the first two (being old Abby-Towns) considerable only by their Antiquity. But, of the two, Crne-Abbas has the advantage; being seated in a dry bottom, watered with a fine Rivulet, and in a Champain Country, affording great delight both for the Hawk and Hound. Framp∣on is likewise pleasantly seated upon a good River, which affords plenty of Fish, and amongst them excellent Trouts.

In this County is a noted Castle, called Lul∣worth Castle, being counted the best Seat in the whole County, either for Situation or

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Beauty. The same has a very fair Prospect into the Sea, and a large Park about it, well furnished with Deer; and has been sometimes honoured with the presence of our Kings in their Western Progresses.

Of Portland and Purbeck.

I should now have done with Dorsetshire, but that it were improper to leave it so, without taking notice of its two Peninsules, which generally go by the name of Islands. And those two are Portland, and Purbeck.

Portland is that Tract of Ground which runs South from Weymouth some miles into the Sea. A Place of great strength, both by Na∣ture and Art; being surrounded with inaccessi∣ble Rocks, except at the very Place of Land∣ing, where stands a strong Castle called Port∣land Castle, built by Henry VIII. And, almost opposite to it on the Lands side towards Wey∣mouth, stands another called Sandford Castle. Which two Castles command all Ships that pass into this Road.

The whole Peninsule does shew it self from the top of the Rocks in a Flat, and is in com∣pass about 7 miles. The Ground is very good for Corn, and indifferent for Pasture but so destitute of Wood and other Fewe that the Inhabitants are fain to dry their Cow-dung, and burn it. Which Defect i made up another way, by its Quarries o excellent free Stone for Building; and tha in such plenty, that they make use of it fo their Fences.

On the South-East-side stands the only Church in the Isle, and that so near the Sea that, to fence it from its furious Waves, the Church-yard Banks were fain to be walled to

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an incredible height. And here it is that Port∣land Race shews it self. For so they call the Meeting of the two Tides here, with so great stri∣ving and beating of the Waves, that 'tis not safe, even in the calmest Season, for Barks to pass over it.

This Peninsule has been dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, first in the person of Richard Weston, created Earl of Portland by King Charles I. Anno 1632; and continued in his Son Jeremy, then in Charles Son and Heir of Jeremy, and lastly in Thomas Weston Uncle to Charles, the late Earl of Portland. But since the late Revolution, our present King was pleased to confer this Title upon the Right Honoura∣ble William Bentinck, the present Earl of Port∣land, and Groom of the Stole to His Maje∣sty.

East of Portland lies Purbeck, an Island (or rather a Peninsule) that takes up the South-East part of this County, about 10 miles in length and 6 in breadth, reaching from Luck∣ford Lake to the Channel. So that it is sur∣rounded with the Sea North, East, and South; and Westward with Rivers, within less than a ile. In this Compass of Ground are many small Towns, whereof Corfe is the chief. Seated on the banks of a River running through the middle parts of Purbeck into Luckford Lake; and that in a barren Soil, betwixt two Hills, upon one of which stands a Castle, called from he Town Corfe-Castle. A Castle that had great Priviledges granted to the Lords thereof; s the free Warren Chase over all the Isle, ea-wracks, Freedom from the Lord Admiral f England, &c.

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To conclude, this County (formerly Part of the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, and its Inhabitants the ancient Durotriges) is now in the Diocese of Bristol.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 18 Members of Parliament. Viz. two out of each of these following Towns, Dorchester, Pool, Lime, Weymouth, Melcomb Re∣gis, Bridport, Shaftsbury, Warham, and Corfe-Castle.

Of this County there have been both Mar∣quesses and Earls; the Title of Marquess first injoy'd by the Beauforts, and after them by the Greys, the last that possessed it being Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk, who was beheaded in the Year 1553. The Title of Earl was con∣ferred by King James I. upon Thomas Sackvil, Lord Buckhurst, created Earl of Dorset Anno 1603, in whose Line it has continued hitherto, the present Earl hereof being the Right Ho∣nourable Charles Sackvil, Earl of Dorset and Middlesex, and Lord High Chamberlain of his Majesties Houshold.

Durham.

DƲRHAM, a Maritime County in the North of England, is bounded Eastward by the German Ocean; Westward, by Cumberlan and Westmorland; Northward, by Northum∣berland; and Southward, by the River Tees, which parts it from Yorkshire.

Its Length, from East to West, is about 3 miles; its Breadth, from North to South, 30 The Whole divided into four Wakes, (no Hundreds) wherein 118 Parishes, and 6 Ma¦ket-Towns.

Here the Air is pretty sharp and keen, no only by reason of the Climate, but because 〈◊〉〈◊〉 its Hilliness, especially the West Parts of i

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So true it is, that those Northern Counties which are so nearly related to Scotland by their Situation, participate likewise of its nature.

This County is so well watered, what with the Sea, and what with the Rivers, that it is almost incompassed with Water. Next to the River Tine which parts it for some miles from Northumberland, and the Tees from Yorkshire, here is the Ware which runs through Durham, and Derwent into the Tine.

As the Soil of it is different, so it is in some Parts fertile, in others barren, and ac∣cordingly inhabited. The Eastern Part is Champain, and bears plenty of Coal; the South∣ern is the most fertile; the Western is hilly and barren, and thin of Woods and Towns. But it is recompensed by its Store of Coal, Lead, and Iron Mines.

Durham, the County Town, bears from Lon∣don North by West, and is distant therefrom (by common Computation) 200 miles. That is 150 miles to York, for the Particulars of which I refer you to Yorkshire; and 50 miles more to Durham. Viz. from York to Borough∣bridge, 13; to North-Allerton, 13 more; 10 from thence to Darlington; and 14 more to Durham.

Whose Situation is upon Hills and Bottoms of Hills, all surrounded with Hills; but the ow Parts watered with the River Ware, which incircles the best Part of it, and over which there are two Stone-Bridges. If what Mr. Bloom says of it in his Britannia was true when it was published, the Case is altered. I have been often upon the Place, but could never find it fair and neatly compacted, nor so beautified as he represents it, nor its Market-Place

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so spacious, nor its Trade so flourish∣ing. On the contrary, 'tis a good retiring Place, free from the noise and hurry of Trade; unless it be upon Saturdays, on which Day the Market is kept. Here indeed one may live plentifuly, and breath good Air, at an easy rate.

The greatest Ornament of this Place is the Castle, and the Cathedral. The Castle where the Bishop makes his Residence, is (I confess) a stately Fabrick, raised on the top of a Hill by William the Conquerour, with all the Ad∣vantages both of a Pallace and a Castle. Over against it, on the same Hill, stands the Ca∣thedral, whose Structure has this Defect, that it is built of a soft mouldering Stone. Between both these is a spacious Place, called the Green. On one side whereof is the Hall where the Assizes are kept, with a handsom publick Li∣brary erected and founded by Dr. Cosins, the late Bishop of Durham; and on the other side, a Row of Alms-Houses, the standing Fruits of his Charity.

At Nevils Cross, near Durham, a bloudy Battel was fought the 20th of Oct. 1346, be∣tween the English and the Scots; where David Bruce, King of Scots, was taken Prisoner by one Copland, a Man of a mean degree, but Knighted for this Action. Then was Queen Philip, Wife to King Edward III, in person in the Field; the Battel being managed by the Lords Mowbray, Percy, and Nevil.

The Market-Towns, besides Durham it self, are

  • Darlington, Mund.
  • Bernard-Castle, Wedn.
  • Bishop Aukland, Thu.
  • Sunderland, Frid. and
  • ...Stainthorp

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Darlington, is a good large Town, seated up∣on two Rivers, the Skerne, and a Rivulet that runs there into it. Over the first, which falls within 2 miles into the Tees, it has a fair Stone-Bridge.

Not far from hence, at Oxenhall, are 3 Pits called Hell-Kettles, of a wonderful depth, supposed to come of an Earthquake that hap∣ned in the Year 1179. 'Tis said of Bishop Tunstall of this Diocese, that he took a Goose which he markt, and put into one of the Pits; and the same Goose was found afterwards in the River Tees.

Bernard Castle is seated in a Bottom, on the River Tees, and adjoyning to Marwood Park. 'Tis but an indifferent Town, and of chief note for Stockings here made.

Bishop Aukland is pleasantly seated on the side of a Hill, between the Ware (over which it has a Bridge) and a Rivulet that runs into it. This is a neat Town, and noted for its good Air. But that which adds much to its Reputation is its stately Castle, the Bishops Summer Pallace, beautifully repaired by Dr. Cosins the late Bishop of Durham; and a fine Chappel, raised by the same Bishop from its Ruins.

Sunderland is a Sea-Town, on the Mouth of the River Ware. Called Sunderland, because by the Working of the Sea it is in a manner pull∣ed from the rest of the Land, it being at high Water invironed on all sides with the Sea. This is a noted Place for its Sea-Coal Trade; but chiefly for giving the Title of Earl, first to Emanuel Lord Scrope of Bolton, and Lord President of the North, created Earl of Sun∣derland by King Charles I. Anno 1627. Upon whose Death, without lawful Issue, the Title

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was bestowed by the same King upon Henry Lord Spencer of Wormleighton, in the Year 1643. Who, being slain the same Year at the first Newberry Fight, the Title fell to Robert, his Son and Heir, the present Earl of Sun∣derland.

Stainthorp, or Staindrop, ly's but 5 miles East-North-East from Bernard Castle, among Parks, and on a Rivulet that runs from thence into the Tees. And not far from it is another Castle, called Raby-Castle, which King Ca∣nute gave to the Church of Durham, with the Lands about it.

But, besides the said Market-Towns, here is in the South-East Parts Stockton and Billingham, noted for their strong Ale; And further North∣ward Hartlepool, that stands upon a Neck of Land shooting forth into the Sea, which sur∣rounds it on all sides, except Westward.

On the Mouth of the River Tine you will find Sheals, where the New-Castle Coal-Fleet takes its Cargo. A little higher stands Jar∣row, noted for being the Birth place of the Venerable Beda. And, over against Newcastle, Gateshead or Gateside, the Receptacle of those numerous Men that work in the Coal-pits. Men that rake their mean Subsistence from the very Bowels of the Earth.

This County was formerly called St. Cuth∣berts Patrimony, from S. Cuthbert, the Raiser of Durham; whose Episcopal See was removed hither from Lindisfarn, or Holy Island, on the Coast of Northumberland. A Saint for whom several of the Saxon Kings, and after them Ca∣nute the Dane, had so great a Veneration, that upon him, and his Successors in that See, was all the Country between Tees and Tine con∣ferred by Alfred King of England. Which his

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Donation was confirmed, and in part increased, by his Successors Edward, Athelstan, and Canute the Dane. So fortified it was with Priviledges and Royal Grants, that, at the coming in of the Norman Conquerour, the Bishop was reputed for a Count Palatine, and did ingrave upon his Seal an armed Knight, holding a naked Sword in one hand, and in the other the Bishops Arms. Nay, it was once adjudged in Law, that the Bishop was to have all Forfeitures and Escheats within the Liber∣ties, as the King had without. In short, the Bishops hereof had the Royalty of Princes, having their own Courts of Judicature both for Civil and Criminal Causes, and covning their own Coin. But these exorbitant Privi∣ledges and Immunities were in part impaired by a Statute under Henry VIII, and altogether with the Lands and whole Rights thereof conferred upon the Crown by Act of Par∣liament in the last Year of the Reign of Ed∣ward VI.

To conclude, when England was divided into seven Kingdoms, this County was Part of that of Northumberland. And the Inha∣bitants of it, as well as those of most part of the North besides, were called Brigantes by the ancient omans.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Members to serve in Parliament, for which Durham has the Right of Election.

Essex

ESSEX, another Maritime County, has for its Bounds Eastward, the German Ocean; Westward, Hartfordshire and Middlesex; North∣ward, the County of Suffolk; and Southward, the County of Kent.

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This is a pretty large County, being in Length about 45 miles; in Breadth, 36. The Whole divided into 20 Hundreds, wherein 45 Parishes, and 21 Market-Towns.

The same is abundantly irrigated, both with great and small Rivers. For, besides the Thames which severs it from Kent, the Stower from Suffolk, and the Lea from Mid∣dlesex, here is the Coln, the Chelmer, the Crouch, and the Roding, with several others; in all which are great plenty of Fish.

Here the Air is very Temperate; but down in the Hundreds towards the Sea-side it is very Aguish.

The Soil for the most part is good, and in some Parts so fruitful, that (according to the Author of Englands Remarqnes) after 3 Years Glebe of Saffron, the Land for 18 years more will yield plenty of Barley, without any Ma∣nuring with Dung or the like, and then bear Saffron again. One Acre of this Ground (which is most in the North Part of the County) will yield 80 or 100 weight of moist Saffron in a Year, which being dried is valued 2. pound sterling.

Its chief Commodities, besides Saffron as aforesaid, are Cloths, Stuffs, Hops, and the best of Oysters.

Colchester, the chief Place of it, bears from London North-East, and is distant from it, 43 miles, by common Computation. Viz. 10 from London to Rumford, 5 more to Burnt∣wood, 10 from thence to Chelmsford, and to Colchester 18 more.

A Town of great Antiquity, and built (as some Authors write) by Coilus, the British Prince, 124 years after Christ's Birth. But yet more Remarkable, for giving birth to u∣cius,

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Helena, and Constantine, the first Christi∣an King, Empress, and Emperour in the World.

Seated it is upon the Rise of a Hill, stretch∣ing it self from East to West; and watered by the River Coln, from whence probably it came to be called Colchester. And, as it is but 6 miles distant from the Sea, so its Situation must needs be upon all accounts both pleasant and commodious. 'Tis a fair and well-built Town, forti••••ed with an old Roman Wall, and having six Gates of entrance, besides 3 Posterns. Towards the East stands an old Castle, within the Ruins of a Trench containing about two Acres. In short, there were in it 14 Parish Churches, several of which are now re∣duced to ruin. But it is still a Place of good Trade for the Stuffs here made, and of some note for its excellent Oysters. In short, 'tis the richest, fairest, and best traded Town in the whole County, from whence the Earl Rivers takes his Title of Viscount. Yet, in regard it stands in the extremity of all the County, the Sessions and Assizes are held most commonly at Chelmsford, which is almost in the middle of it. Its Market is kept on Saturdays, and is well served with Provisions.

The other Market-Towns are,

  • Maldon, Sat. Harwich, Tue.
  • Cogshall, Sat. Manytre, Tue.
  • Walden, Sat. Billerakey, Tue.
  • Dunmore, Sat. Waltham Abbey, Tue.
  • Hatfield, Sat. Braintre, Wedn.
  • Raleigh, Sat. Rumford, Wedn.
  • Hornden, Sat. Buntwood, Thu.
  • Barkin, Sat. Epping, Thu. and Frid.
  • Cheping-Onger Sat. Hulsteed, Frid.
  • Cheping-Onger Sat. Chelmsford, Frid.
  • Cheping-Onger Sat. Thanted, Frid.

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Among which Maldon and Harwich are two noted Harbours. The first, by the Romans called Camelodunum, a Town of great antiqui∣ty, and the Seat of Cunobelin King of the Trinobantes, about the Time of Christ's Birth. 'Tis seated on the River Chelmer, about 7 miles from the Sea, between which and the Sea ly two small Isles, called Northey and Osey. It has one Street about a mile in length, and is well inhabited. In short, 'tis one of the chief Places in the whole County; particularly noted for giving the Title of Viscount to the Earl of Essex.

In the Parts adjoyning to this Town are ex∣cellent Pastures, which feed store of Sheep, (amongst other Cattel) of whose milk they make Cheese. And on the utmost Promonto∣ry stood an ancient City of the Romans, called Ithancester, where the Fortenses with their Cap∣tain kept their Station or Gard, in the Dedi∣nation of the Roman Empire, for the Security of these Parts against the Saxon Rovers. No∣thing of which is now remaining, but the Ruins of a thick Wall, where many Roman Coyns have been found. And out of the Ruins of this City was built S. Peters upon the Wall.

Harwich lies the furthest East of any, by the Sea-side, and at the mouth of the River Stower. So that 3 Parts of it are surrounded with Water. The Town is not large, but well inhabited and frequented; not only for the commodiousness and safety of its Harbour, but because it is the readiest Passage for Holland, and the Station for the Packet-Boats imploy'd for that purpose. But there is a great Inconve∣niency to the Inhabitants, the Brackishness of its Waters. Which puts the Inhabitants upon the necessity of being supplied with sweet Wa∣ter from other Places.

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The Towns of chief note besides are Chelms∣ford, where the Assizes for the County are usually held; Burntwood, or Brentwood, a Place of good Antiquity; Rumford, a great Thorough∣fare; and Walden, or Saffron-Walden, seated on an Ascent, among pleasant Fields of Saffron, from which the Owners reap good Profit.

Not far from Walden is one of the Royal Hou∣ses, called Audley-end, a very stately Building, built by the Right Honourable Thomas Ho∣ward Earl of Suffolk, then Treasurer of Eng∣land. And upon the Thames, over against Graves∣end in Kent, stands Tilbury Fort, which com∣mands that Passage.

This County (which formerly was part of the Kingdom of the East-Saxons, from whence it came to be called Essex; and its Inhabitants, together with those of Middlesex, known among the ancient Romans by the Name of Trino∣bantes) is now in the Diocese of London.

Famous, among other things, for giving the Title of Earl to several Families, as the Man∣deviles, the Bohuns, the Bourchiers, Thomas Lord Cromwel, William Lord Parre and three D'Evreux, before it came to the present Family of the Capels. And the first Earl of this Name was Arthur Capel, the late Earl of Essex, advanced to this Title by King Charles II. Anno 1661, afterwards made Lord Lieutenant of Ire∣land, and some years after his Return sent to the Tower, in order to make him a Sacrifice, with the Lord Russel and others, to the Popish Facti∣on. But his Title is revived in the person of his Son and Heir, the Right Honourable Algernon Capel, the present Earl of Essex.

Lastly, out of this County are elected, be∣sides the two Knights of the Shire, six Mem∣bers of Parliament, Viz. two from Col∣chester,

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two from Harwich, and two more from Maldon.

CHAP. IX.

Of Glocestershire, Hampshire, and Hartfordshire.

Glocester∣shire.

GLOCESTERSHIRE, a large Inland County, is bounded on the East by Warwickshire and Oxfordshire; on the West, by Monmouthshire and part of Hereford∣shire, Northward by Worcestershire; South∣ward, by Wiltshire and Somersetshire.

It contains in Length, from North to South, 50 miles; and in Breadth, from East to West, about 25. The Whole divided into 30 Hundreds; wherein 280 Parishes, and 26 Market Towns.

This is in general a most pleasant and fruitful Country, blessed with a full Course of the Ri∣ver Severn. That Part thereof which is beyond the River is overspread with Woods; all which, included in one Name, made the Forest of Dean. That part which buts upon Oxford∣shire is swelled up with Hills, called the Corswold Hills; but these are in a manner covered with Sheep, which yields a Wool of a notable fine∣ness. Whereof great Quantities of Cloth are here made, that find vent throughout all Eng∣land, and divers forein Countries. Between these two, I mean the Forest and the Hills, is seated a most fruitful Vale, yielding most sorts

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of Grain to admiration, and formerly stock'd with Vines and Vineyards. The want of which is now supplied with Cider, which they make here in great abundance.

Next to the Severn, which crosses the Coun∣try from North to South, here's the Avon which parts it from Somersetshire, the Wye which severs it in part from Monmouthshire, besides the Stroud and the Isis. All which afford great plenty of Fish, and the Severn particularly abundance of Salmon.

The Forest of Dean, which ly's in the West∣side of the County between the Severn and the Wye, is reckoned to be 20 miles long, and 10 broad. A Place formerly much more woody than it is at present, the Iron Mines that are here having consumed a good part of the Wood.

Glocester, the County Town, is 81 miles di∣stant West and by North from London. Viz. from London to Colebrook, 15; to Maidenhead, 7 more; and 11 from thence to Nettlebed; from Nette∣bed to Abington, 12; to Faringdon, 10 more; to Perrors Bridge, 14 more; and 12 from thence to Glocester.

A City of good Antiquity, and first built by the Romans, to whom it was known by the Name of Glevum. It ly's stretch∣ed out in length on the Severn, over which it has a fine Bridge, and on the Banks thereof a large Key or Wharf, very commodious for the Merchandize and Trade of the Place. The Streets are generally fair, and the Town well built upon an easy Ascent, the Streets descending every way from the Cross. It has been for∣merly walled about with a strong Wall, except on the Rivers side; and some Remains of its Walls are still in many places to be seen, which shew what strength they were of.

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The City is not very large, but very well in∣habited and frequented, and enjoying a good Trade. It has two Markets a Week, viz. Wed∣nesdays and Saturdays, which are very great for Corn and Cattle, and well served with all Pro∣visions. And, for Divine Worship, here are twelve Parish-Churches; besides the Cathedral, a fine piece of Architecture, noted amongst o∣ther things for its Whispering Place, which is in an Arch of the Quire? but chiefly for be∣ing the Burying-place of Lucius, the first Chri∣stian King; and of the unfortunate King Ed∣ward II. who at Barkley-Castle was barbarously murdered by the Cruelty of Isabel his Wife.

Lastly, this City is both a Bishops See, and a County of it self, being made a County by King Richard III, once Duke of Glocester. And, as it has the advantage of denominating so rich a Country as this, so it has been of∣ten dignified with the Title of a Dukedom, sometimes that of an Earldom, in those eminent Persons who in their several Times and Ages have been either Dukes or Earls of Glocester. The Number of 'em is too great for me to produce 'em all here. Therefore I shall only say, that the last Duke of Glocester was Henry, the third Son of King Charles I, declared by his Royal Father Duke of Glocester, and Earl of Cambridge, and so Intituled Anno 1641, but not so created till the Year 1659. He lived to see the Restauration of the Royal Family, and died the same Year it hapned, viz. Sept. 13. 1660. With him the Title has lain dormant, till it was lately revived in the person of the young Prince William, the Son of the Illustrious Prince George of Denmark.

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Nigh to this City is Alney-Isle, so made by the Severn. In which Edmund Ironside King of the English Saxons, and Canute the Dane, after many Conflicts and bloody Battels, fought a single Combat hand to hand, for the Crown of England. The Issue of which was, that they agreed to part the Kingdom; which they joyntly governed, till Treason took away the Life of King Edmund, and left Canute sole Monarch of England.

At Lassington, a mile from Glocester, is found a sort of Stone, called the Star-Stone, being a∣bout the breadth of a Silver Peny, and the thickness of a Half-crown. These Stones are flat, and (like a Star) five-pointed; of a gray∣ish colour, and on the flat sides naturally in∣graven in fine Works, as one Mullet within another.

The other Market-Towns, besides Glocester it self, are

  • Bristol, Sat. and Wedn.
  • Tewksbury, Sat.
  • Winchcomb, Sat.
  • Leonards Stanley, Sat.
  • Thornbury, Sat.
  • Wickware, Mun.
  • Dean Magna, Mun.
  • Cirencester, Mun. & Frid.
  • Panswick, Tue.
  • Horton, Tue.
  • Minching-hampton Tue.
  • Marshfield, Tue.
  • Letchlade, Tue.
  • Campden, Wedn.
  • Blackley, Wedn.
  • Tedbury, Wedn.
  • Stow on the Wold. Thu.
  • Cheltenham, Thu.
  • Dursbey, Thu.
  • Chipping Sudbury, Thu.
  • Fairford, Thu.
  • Stroud, Frid.
  • Wotton, Frid.
  • Newent, Frid.
  • Newham, Frid.

Amongst which Bristol, being not only the greatest Place of Trade in England next to

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London, but also a Bishops See, and a County of it self, deserves a particular Description. It is both pleasantly and commodiously seat∣ed at the fall of the Frome into the Avon, which five Miles from thence empties it self into the Severn. By this River the City is divided in∣to two Parts, the chief Part in Glocester∣shire, and the other in Somersetshire, but with the conveniency of Communication by means of a fair Stone Bridge. Which (like London Bridge) is so covered with Houses, that it looks more like a Street than a Bridge. Its Streets are neatly ordered, and set out with many fine Edifices. Among which may be reckoned the Cathedral, and most of the Parish Churches, which are 18 in Number. The City is be∣girt with a Wall, besides other Fortifi∣cations. At the East end of it stood a Castle, wherein King Stephen was kept a Prisoner by Maud the Empress. But it was demolish∣ed by Oliver Cromwel, and is now built in∣to Streets, called Castle-street and Castle-Green.

But that which has chiefly made Bristol so considerable is the goodness of its Port. The principal Key whereof stands on the Frome, which at Spring-Tides does flow about 40 Foot, and so brings Ships in of a great Burden. Thus Bristol, by its Commodious∣ness for Shipping, is become a Place of great Resort both for Merchants and Tradesmen; those driving a great Trade to most Parts of the Known World, these a Home-Trade, es∣pecially to Wales, to Shropshire, and other Counties.

About Bristol is great store of Coals; also, a sort of Precious Stone, called from thence Bristol-Stones, taken out of S. Vincents Rock.

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At the bottom whereof is a hot Well, of a Me∣dicinal nature.

Lastly, though Bristol stands partly (as I said before) in this County, and partly in Somer∣setshire; yet, as it is a County of it self, it yields Obedience to neither. And considering its Beauty, Trade, Riches, Extent, and Po∣pulousness, it may be counted the chief Place in England, next to London.

'Tis but about 150 Years since this Town came to he a Bishops See, this being one of the six new Sees erected by Henry VIII. by virtue of an Act of Parliament made in order to it. But it is less since it became a Title of Nobility, which was not till King James I. conferred the Honour of Earl of Bristol upon John Lord Digby of Sherburn, Anno 1622. From him devolved by his Death to his Son George, in the Year 1650, and from him to the Right Hononrable John Digby, the present Earl of Bristol.

Cirencester, commonly pronounced Circester, is seated on the River Churn, over which it has a Bridge. It has been a Place of great ac∣count in the time of the Romans; and, with∣out insisting upon the Roman Coyns, Checker-work Pavements, and engraven Marble Stones, that have oft been digged up here, its very ruinous Walls, still to be seen, and about 2 Miles in Circuit, are a sufficient proof of its former Greatness. This City was taken from the Britains by the West-Saxons, and afterwards possessed by the Mercians, till laid in Ashes by a Stratagem of the merciless Danes, in tying fire to the Wings of Sparrows, from whence it came to be called the Sparrows City. Since which Desolation, it could never recover it self to any thing beyond the Name of a good Borough Town.

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Tewksbury is a goodly Town, situate at the fall of the North-Avon into the Severn, and water∣ed besides with two Rivulets. A Town of good account for making of Woollen Cloth, and for the best Mustard in the Kingdom, as Dijon is in France. But most of all memorable for the Battel fought here Anno 1471. between King Henry VI. and his immediate Successor Edward IV, that is, between the House of Lancaster and York, where the Lancastrians were intire∣ly defeated, and the young Prince Edward (the only Son of King Henry) slain.

Stroud, situate on the River so called, is a well-built Town, whose Houses for the most part are of Stone. It has a Bridge over the River, on the Banks of which are placed abundance of fulling Mills. Here they die Scarlet, the Stroud Water having a peculiar quality to give the right Tincture.

Near the Severn Banks stands Berkley Castle, which gives Name to a noble and ancient Family dispersed in many Places of this King∣dom, and whereof they were made Barons by King Henry the II. Whereas before that time they were called Fitz-Harding, as being descen∣ded from one Robert Fitz-Harding, of the Blood-Royal of the Danes. William Lord Berkley of this House descended from the Mowbraies (who, amongst other Titles, were Earls of Nottingham) was in the Year 1432 created Viscount Berkley by King Richard III; after∣wards Earl of Nottingham, and Earl Marshal, by King Henry VIII; and finally Marquess Berkley, by the same King Anno 1509. But dying without Issue, all those Titles ended with him. Only the Title of Lord Berkley continued in the Collateral Line, till advanced to the Title of Earl by King Charles II.

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Anno 1679. in the person of the Right Ho∣nourable George, Earl of Berkley, Viscount Dursley, &c.

To conclude, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants, with those of Oxfordshire, known among the ancient Romans by the Name of Dobuni) is now partly in the Diocese of Glo∣cester, and partly in that of Bristol.

Ont of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, six Members of Parlia∣ment; Viz. 2 out of Glocester, 2 out of Tewksbury, and 2 more out of Cirencester. In this Case Bristol is counted in Somerset∣shire.

Hampshire.

HAMPSHIRE, or HANTSHIRE, otherwise called the County of Southampton, from Southampton the Shire-Town, is a Maritime County. Bounded on the East by Surrey and Sussex; on the West, by Wiltshire and Dorsetshire; on the North, by Barkshire; and on the South, by the Channel, or British Sea.

Its Length, from North to South, is about 46 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, 30. The Whole divided into 39 Hundreds, wherein 253 Parishes, and 16 Market-Towns.

This County is rich in all Commodities, both of Sea and Land; and those Parts of it which y furthest from the Sea, of a pure and excellent Air.

In particular, the Country is well cloathed with Wood, affords plenty of Iron, which is here wrought from the Mines, with abundance of Wool, which the Inhabitants make Cloths and Kerseys of, and the best sort of Hony.

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As for Rivers, here is in the West Parts of the County, the Avon, and the Stower a Dor∣setshire River, which meet together at their fall into the Sea. More Eastward you will find the Test, and the Itching, which also meet at their fall into the Sea, and that near South∣ampton.

In this County is the New Forest, about 30 miles in compass. A Forest which William the Conquerour so delighted to hunt in, that (to make it compleat and intire) he caused ma∣ny Towns and Villages, with no less than 36 Parish-Churches, to be pulled down and le∣velled with the ground. But this Exorbitance of his did not escape unpunished. For in this very Forest Richard, his second Son, was goared by a Deer, and died; William, his third Son, was accidentally slain by Sir Walter Tyrrel; and his Grandchild, Robert Curtoyse, being in pursuit of the Game, was struck by a Bough in∣to the Jaws, and died.

Southampton, the Shire-Town, bears from London South-West by West, and is distant therefrom 60 miles, thus. From London to Stanes, 15; to Bagshot, 10 more; thence to Alton, 14; to Alesford, 8 more; from Ales∣ford to Twiford, 7; and to Southampton, 6 more.

This Town is commodiously seated at the very Mouth of the Rivers Test and Itching both which Streams being here united together into one go under the Name of Hampton, which is more like an Arm of the Sea than a River. And 'tis capable of Ships of good Burden to the very Key, which is very com∣modious for lading and unlading of Ships. Ac∣cordingly this Town has flourished for some time, and injoy'd a great Trade with France

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especially; being conveniently seated, oppo∣site to Normandy, and its adjacent Isles, Jer∣sey and Garnsey. It has been likewise a Place of good Defence, surrounded with a double Ditch, and strong Walls, with several good Towers, and fortified besides with a Castle. At present both its Trade and Strength are very much decay'd and diminished. How∣ever it is still of that extent as to contain five Parish Churches. And, though it be within the County, yet it is (as some other Towns) a County of it self, for which it stands beholding to King Henry VI.

The Bishops of Winchester were anciently reputed to be Earls of Southampton, and are so stiled in the new Statutes of the Garter made by Henry VIII. But that Title has been since otherwise disposed of; Thomas Wriothesley, Lord Chancellour, being created Earl of Southampton by King Edward VI. Anno 1547. In whose Line it has continued, till it died with Thomas Wriothesley, Lord Treasurer, Anno 1667. In the Reign of Charles II. After whom Charles Fitz-Roy, Lord Limrick, eldest Son to the Dutchess of Cleveland, was created Baron of Newberry, Earl of Chichester, and Duke of Southampton, Anno 1675.

For Provisions, and other Commodities, this Town has two Markets a Week, viz. Tuesdays nd Fridays.

But, though Southampton be properly the Shire Town, yet the City of Winchester out∣loes it upon several accounts, and there∣sore deserves a particular Description by it self.

Winchester, the Venta Belgarum of the ancient Romans, is pleasantly seated in a Valley be∣twixt Hills, and on the Banks of the River

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Itching. A City of great Antiquity, and noted among the Romans for being the Place where the rich Imbroideries were made for their Emperours. In the time of the Saxons it was twice consumed by fire, and by them rebuilt; being made the Royal Seat of the West-Saxon Kings, and the chief Episcopal See. Afterwards it felt, with many other Places, the fury of the Danes. In the time of the Normans it was repaired, and honoured with the keeping of the publick Records of the Kingdom. But soon after it had a Relapse, be∣ing sore oppressed during the Civil Wars of Maud the Empress and King Stephen. At last it began in the Reign of Edward III. to reco∣ver it self, having made it the Mart for Wool and Cloth.

At present this City contains, within its Walls, about a mile and a half in Circuit, but not without some waste. Here is a fine Hall, where the Assizes and Sessions are kept for the Coun∣ty; and in this Hall hangs up King Arthur's Round Table, which is kept as a Monument.

For Divine Worship, here are five Parish Churches. Besides the Cathedral, a large and beautiful Structure, dedicated to the Holy Tri∣nity; and of special note, for being the Se∣pulchre of many Saxon Kings and Queens, besides two Kings of the Danish, and two of the Norman Race. For the Education of Youth, here is in the Suburbs a fair Colledge, liberally endowed, and a place of good Lite∣rature; built and endowed by William of Wickham for a Seminary to his other Colledge in Oxford. And for the Relief of the Poor, a very fair Hospital, called S. Crosles, not far off from the Colledge. Here is also a goodly and capacious Palace for the Bishops Dwel∣ling,

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called Wolvesey-House; and, upon a Hill, a strong Castle, which overlooks the Country.

In short, the City of Winchester is indiffe∣rently well peopled, and frequented. And its reekly Markets, kept on Wednesdays and Satur∣days, are well served with all sorts of Provisi∣ons, especially that on Saturdays. Noted be∣sides, for giving the Title of Marquess to his Grace Charles Paulet, lately made Duke of Bol∣ton by our present King.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Kingsclere, Tue.
  • asing-stoke, Wedn.
  • Kingwood, Wedn.
  • lisford, Thu.
  • Portsmouth, Thu. & Sat.
  • Andover, Sat.
  • Ramsey, Sat.
  • Petersfield, Sat.
  • Lemington, Sat.
  • Odiam, Sat.

Besides Christchurch, and Whitechurch, whose Market-Days I am ignorant of; and Newport, in the Isle of Wight, of which more anon.

Amongst which Portsmouth, the strongest Place in this Kingdom, is seated in the Isle of Porsey, South-East from Southampton; Which Isle has Communication on the North with the main Land, by a Bridge. This Place is both a good Harbour for Ships, and by its strong Fortifications a Shelter to this Country. Here are Docks and Store-houses for the King to build and equip Men of War; and for its Defence, two Castles, one in the North, and another in the South, besides other Fortifications, and a good Garrison withall. But it is counted an unhealthy Place.

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However, it gives the Title of Dutchess to a famous French Lady, Louisa de Querouaille, creat∣ed Baroness of Petersfield, Countess of Faru∣ham, and Dutchess of Portsmouth, by King Charles II. Anno 1673. A Town noted besides for a Race of small Dogs like Beagles, bred about it; which hunt Moles, as their natural Game.

Odiam, seated on the Road, did formerly be∣long to the Bishops of Winchester. Near un∣to it stand the Ruins of an old Castle, once so strong, that in the Reign of King John, 13 Englishmen kept out the Dauphin of France and his Army for the space of 15 days.

As for Whitechurch, Stocksbridge, and Rumsey, they are all three seated upon the Test; Ring∣wood, upon the Avon; Christ-Church, betwixt the Avon and the Stower, at their fall into the Sea; and Lemington, East from it, by the Sea∣side. Stockbridge, Basingstoke, Petersfield, and Ando∣ver, are great Thorow-fare Towns.

Spithead, a noted Place for being a fre∣quent Rendezvous to the Royal Navy, lies between Portfmouth and the Isle of Wight.

Of the Isle of Wight.

The Isle of Wight falls next under our Con∣sideration. And as Nature has parted it from the rest, so in her Imitation, I give you here a separate Account of it.

This Island, being scarce 3 miles from Hurst-Castle, is generally supposed to have been dismembred from Hampshire by the Sea. 'Tis about 20 miles in length, and 12 broad where broadest; of an oval Form, ending with two Peninsules, one East, and the other West. Naturally fenced

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about with steep and craggy Rocks, amongst which the Shingles and the Needles North∣westward are of chief note amongst Sea-men. Southward, where it looks towards France, it is inaccessible; but, towards the North-East, something flat and level.

The Soil hereof abundantly answers the Pains of the Husband man. So plentiful it is of Corn and Pasturage, that the Inhabitants have not only sufficient for themselves, but fur∣nish also the Markets of Portsmouth and Sou∣thampton, (but the first especially,) with the greatest part of the Wheat, Flesh, Cheese, and Butter, which is spent amongst them. Insomuch that the Souldiers of Portsmouth, pre∣suming on the strength of that Town, use to say, That as long as they have the Isle of Wight to their Friend, and the Seas open, they need not care for all the World besides. And, as the Sea about this Island is exceeding full of Fish, so is the Land stored almost in all Places with Conies, Hares, Partridges, and Pheasants. And the Sheep here yield so fine a Fleece, that the Wool hereof has the preceden∣ty of that of Coteswold in Glocestershire, and is next in esteem to that of Lemster in He∣refordshire.

This Island is divided into two principal Parts, viz. East, and West-Meden; containing 36 Parishes, and in them 3 Market-Towns.

Newport, the chief of all the Isle, stands on the North-East Coast, with a little Creek be∣fore it, where small Vessels come to the very Key, which does very much facilitate its Trade. 'Tis a large and populous Town, having two Markets a Week, viz. Wednesdays and Satur∣days.

At the entrance of the aforesaid Creek is

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Cowes, often mentioned in our Gazets, a noted place for harbouring of Ships, therefore fortified with a Castle. And a little way West from Newport, stands another, call'd Cares∣brook Castle.

Yarmouth, the best Town in this Island, next to Newport, is situate on the North-West Coast. This Town is strengthened with a Castle, and other pieces of Fortification; most of it's Houses built of Free Stone, and covered with Slate.

In the South-East-Parts is Sandham, on a Bay so called, also fortified with a Castle. So that here are more Castles in this Spot of Ground, than there is in any the like Spot in England.

Lastly, this Island, as well as the Isle of Man, has had the honour of being advanced to the Title of a Kingdom; but either of 'em much more deservedly than the Lordship of Ivitot in France. 'Twas in the Year 1445, when King Henry VI, out of his particular affection to Henry Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, crowned him King of Wight. Which Title ended with his Life about two years after.

Besides this Island, there are to the Eastward of Portsmouth, two lesser Isles, called Haling and Thorney; and having two Towns of their Name.

This County, whereof the Isle of Wight makes a Part, is in the Diocess of Winchester, and was formerly part of the Kingdom of the West Saxons. The Inhabitants whereof, together with those of Wiltshire and Somersetshire, were known by the Name of Belgae among the anci∣ent Romans.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knight

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of the Shire, no less than 24 Members to serve in Parliament, viz. two out of each of these Towns, Winchester, Southampton, Portsmouth, Peters∣field, Stockbridge, Lemington, Andover, Christ-church, White-Church; besides these three in the Isle of Wight, Newport, Yarmouth, and Newton.

Hartford∣shire.

HARTFORDSHIRE, an Inland Coun∣ty, is bounded on the East by Essex; on the West, by Buckingham and Bedfordshire; on the North, by Cambridge-shire; and on the South, by Middlesex.

It contains in Length, from North to South, 30 miles; and in Breadth, from East to West, 27. The whole divided into eight Hundreds, where∣in 120 Parishes, and 18 Market Towns.

A Country not only blest with a sweet and wholsom Air, but also with a fruitful Soil; well watered with fresh and delightful Streams, the principal whereof are the Lea and the Coln.

Hartford, the Shire-Town, from whence the County took its Name, stands North by West 20 miles from London, Viz. 10 from London to Barnet, and 10 more to Hartford.

A Town of great note, in the time of Beda, (by whom named Herudford,) for a Synod there held in the dawning of the day of Christianity, amongst the Saxons; in which S. Augustine the Monk, the first Apostle of that People, had a Conference (or Consultation) with the British Bishops. More memorable, in the following Times, for giving the Title of an Earl to the Illustrious Family, surnamed De Clare; the ad∣dition of an Honour, and a goodly Patrimony to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster; and at this time the Title of Marquess to the Duke of Somerset.

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This Town is seated on the Lea, much decay'd by the turning the High-way through Ware, and having now but 3 Parish Churches. Here however, is kept the County Goal, and 'tis a well frequented Market on Saturdays.

The other Market-Towns are

  • S. Albans, Sat.
  • Rickmansworth, Sat.
  • Barnet, Mund.
  • Berkhamsted, Mund.
  • Buntingford, Mund.
  • Watford, Tue.
  • Ware, Tue.
  • Hitching, Tue.
  • Hempsted, Thu.
  • Hatfield, Thu.
  • Hodsdon, Thu.
  • Baldock, Thu.
  • Bp. Stretford, Thu.
  • Stevenedge, Frid.
  • Tringe, Frid.
  • toudon, Frid.

Amongst which S. Alhans, seated on the Ri∣ver Coln, was so called from a famous Monastery here, founded by Offa, the great King of the Mercians, in honour of St. Albans the Proto∣martyr of Britain, a Citizen of Verulamium near adjoyning to it. Out of the Ruins whereof (decay'd by Age, and destroy'd by War) arose the present S. Albans, the fairest and best trad∣ed Town in this County. A Town which for∣merly injoy'd great Priviledges. For Divine Worship it has now 3 Parish Churches; and in one of 'em ly interred the Bodies of many Nobles, slain in two Battels fought here be∣tween the Houses of York and Lancaster.

This Town has been dignifyed with the se∣veral Titles of Viscount, Earl, and Duke. With the first, Anno 1620, in the Person of Francis Bacon, Viscount S. Albans, Lord Verulam, and Lord High Chancellour of England. With the Title of Earl, Anno 1628. in the person of Richard de Burgh, and continued in his Son Ulick,

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with whom it dyed; till revived again, Anno 1660. by King Charles II. in the person of Hen∣ry Jermin, the last Earl of St. Albans. Who dying without Issue, King Charles advanced his Grace Charles Beauclare, Earl of Burford, to the Title of Duke, by making him Duke of S. Al∣bans.

Ware, Hatfield, and Hodsdon, are all three seat∣ed on the Lea. The first a good Thorough-fare Town, much improved since the High-Way was turned from Hartford hither. Noted be∣sides for the Channel cut from thence to Lon∣don where it serves so many hundred Fa∣milies with the Conveniency of that ex∣cellent Water, called New River Water. To which may be added another Observa∣tion, the pleasantness and easiness of the Road from Ware up to London; which being of a Sandy Soil, proves seldom dirty but with∣in a mile of London, and is so filled with Towns and Gentlemens Houses from mile to mile, that one would think the Suburbs of London on the North side fetch their beginning at Ware. So strange is the Influence of this rich and popu∣lous City.

Hatfield is a Place of great Delight and Re∣creation; but of chief note for that stately House called Hatfield House, formerly one of the Kings of Englands Pallaces, till it came in the possession of the Earls of Salisbury. A House which for Situation, Prospect, Contri∣vance, and Building, for Air, water, and all other Accommodations, is inferiour to none in England.

Not far from Hodsdon, but nearer to Wal∣tham Abby in Essex, is Theoballs, one of the Kings Royal Seats, pleasantly situate among delightful Walks, Gardens, Groves, and Springs.

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First built by Sir William Cecil, and afterwards beautifyed by his Son Robert, both Lord Trea∣surers of England.

Barnet, or high Barnet, is pleasantly seated on a Hill, and in the Road within ten miles of London. Of some account for its Medicinal Waters; but much more memorable for a bloody Battel fought here between the two Houses of York and Lancaster, wherein the former prevailed.

Warford and Rickmansworth are both seated near the Coln. And, not far from the first, Langley Abbey, the Birth-place of that proud and high-spirited Pope Adrian IV. first known by Nicholas, and surnamed Break-Spear.

Bishops-Stratford is a great Market Town, seat∣ed near the River Stowr, on the side of a Hill, and much resorted unto. On the East-side whereof are to be seen the Ruins of a Castle, called the Castle of Waymour, standing very steep in an Isle upon an artificial Mount, with a dark and deep Dungeon in it, which denotes some great Priviledges to have belonged unto it in former Times. It was ruinated by King John.

Among the Market-Towns here, I might have put in Royston, part of which stands in this County; but I refer you for it to Cam∣bridgeshire.

In short, this County (which formerly was di∣vided betwixt the Kings of Mercia and the East-Saxons, and whose Inhabitants were part of the Catieuchlani, as the Romans called them,) stands now divided betwixt the Dioceses of London and Lincoln.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but four Members to serve in Parliament; 2 by Hartford, and 2 by St. Albans.

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CHAP. X.

Of Herefordshire, Huntingtonshire, and Kent.

Hereford∣shire.

HEREFORDSHIRE, or the County of Hereford, is an Inland County. Which has for its Eounds Eastward, Glocestershire and Worcestershire; Westward, Radnockshire and Brecknockshire in Wales; Northward, Shropshire; and Southward, Monmouthshire.

Its Length, from North to South, is about 35 miles; its Breadth, from East to West 30. The Whole divided into 11 Hundreds, where∣in 176 Parishes, and but 8 Market-Towns.

This County was formerly part of Wales, before it was by Conquest annexed to this Crown. And then it was strengthened with no less than 28 Castles, whereof there's scarce any thing now remaining but their Ru∣ins.

Here the Air is temperate and healthful; and the Soil exceeding rich. Tis well cloathed with Wood, and refreshed with Rivers; the principal of which are the Wye, Lug, Arrow, and Frome.

Two Things this County excels in, its plenty of Fruit, and the finest Wool in any part of England. And, amongst all sorts of Fruits, the Red-streak Apple (which makes the best sort of Cider) is that which thrives here to admiration.

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Hereford, the chief Place hereof, bears West-North-West from London, and is distant from it 101 miles, thus. From London to Glocester, 81 miles, as you may see in Glocester∣shire; then from Glocester to Ross, 10 miles; and to Hereford 10 more.

'Tis seated on the Banks of the River Wye, and another that, runs into it, amongst rich Meadows and plentiful Corn-fields. Raised out of the Ruins of Ariconium, a Place of good account in the time of the Romans. It had once a strong and stately Castle, built by the Normans, which Time has now ruinated. And now it is walled about, having six Gates for entrance, and 15 Watch-Towers for de∣fence. 'Twas a Bishops See in the time of the Britains, and restored to that Dignity by the Saxons Anno 680. Noted besides, for gi∣ving first the Title of Earl, then that of Duke, and lastly that of Viscount, now in the Per∣son of the Right Honourable Edward D'Evreux, Viscount Hereford, &c. Descended to him from his Ancestor Sir Walter D'Evreux; who, on the Death of Robert D'Evreux, Viscount Hereford, and Earl of Essex, succeeded in the Title of Viscount, Anno 1646.

Here are three Markets a Week, viz. on Wednesdav, Friday, and Saturday. And, in point of Trade, this Place is particularly no∣ted for the Gloves here made, and vended in great quantities in London and elsewhere.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Bramyeard, Mund.
  • Pembridge, Tue.
  • Lidbury, Tue.
  • Kyneton, Wedn.
  • Webley, Thu.
  • Rosse, Thu.
  • Lemster, Frid

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Among which Pembridge and Kyneton are seated on the River Arrow; Rosse, on the Wye; and Lemster, on the Lug. This last of chief note for the fine Wool which the Sheep in its Neighbourhood bear, and likewise for its fine Wheat and Flower; as Webley is for its good Ale.

At Kyneton, a pretty large and well-built Town, they drive a good I rade for narrow Cloths; and the Market is counted the best for Corn, Cattle, Provisions, and several other Commodities, especially the Wednesdays before Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide.

Ledbury; seated near the Malvern Hills, in a rich Clay Ground, is a well built Town, and much inhabited by Clothiers, who drive a good Trade here.

Among the Things remarkable in this Coun∣ty, here is first, by Snod-hill Castle, a Quar∣ry of excellent Marble. And, by Richards Castle, in the North Part of the County, a Well called Bone-Well, wherein are always found sinall Fishes Bones, but not a Fin to be seen. Which Well being wholly cleansed of them, yet will the like come again, and no Man knows whe∣ther they be produced naturally, or brought thither in Veins through the Earth.

Neither can I omit to relate the Story of Marsley Hill, tho' I could scarce give credit to it, were it not related both by Cambden and Speed, two Authentick Authors. This Hill, in the Year 1571, removed it self with a roar∣ing noise from the place where it stood, and for 3 days together travelled from its old Seat. It began this Motion on Saturday the 7th of February about 6 a Clock at Night, and by 7 a Clock the next Morning it had gone about 200 Foot; carrying with it Sheep in their

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Coats, Hedge-rows, and Trees, whereof some stood, and others were overthrown. Kinna∣ston Chappel fell down in this Remove, and two high Ways were turned about 300 Foot from their old Paths; the East-Parts turned to the West, & the West turned to the East, Pasturage being left in the place of Tillage, and Tillage on the other side overspreading the Pasturage. Thus about 26 Acres of Ground travelled 3 days together, till being raised to a Hill 12 fa∣doms high, there it rested.

This County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants known among the Romans by the Name of Silures) is now in the Diocese of Hereford.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, six Members of Parliament, Viz. 2 out of Hereford, 2 out of Lemster, and 2 out of Webley.

Hunting∣tonshire.

HƲNTINGTONSHIRE, another Inland County, but of a small extent, is boun∣ded on the East by Cambridgeshire; on the North and West by Northamptonshire; and on the South, by Bedfordshire.

It contains in Length about 22 Miles, and in Breadth 18. The Whole divided into four Hun∣dreds, wherein 79 Parishes, and 6 Market Towns.

In former time this County was very Woody, being counted a Forest, and such as afforded excellent Game for Hunting, from whence it took its Denomination. But in the beginning of the Reign of Henry II. it was disforested, being at present a very open Country, and ge∣nerally flat. Only in some Parts it rises into lit∣tle Hills, best for the Plough; as the Valleys are for Pasture, which is counted as good here as any in England.

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The East Part of it towards Cambridge∣shire, is something troubled with Fens, which makes the Air not so good here as in other Parts of England. Yet the Natives that dwell about them are healthfull, and many of 'em long-lived; but it is not so with Stran∣gers.

In general this Country is very fertile, both for Corn and Pasturage; and is well watered with Rivers, the chief whereof is the Owse.

One Thing it is peculiar in, which is its plenty of Willows; from whence it is nick∣named the Willow-shire.

Huntington, the chief Place of it, bears from London North by West, and is distant from it 48 Miles, thus. From London to Edmonton 6; to Waltham-Cross 6 more; and 8 from thence to Ware; from Ware to Puckeridge, 4; to Roy∣ston, 9 more; and thence to Huntington 15.

The same is pleasantly seated on a soft As∣cent, and on the North Banks of the River Owse, over which it has a fair Stone-bridge, which leads to Godmanchester. It is a Town of great Antiquity, and has formerly enjoyed great Priviledges. Once so large and popu∣lous as to contain 15 Parish-Churches, now reduced to four. However it is still a Place of good Trade, well inhabited and frequented, being a Thorough-fare Town for Travellers to and from the North. Here is kept the County Goal, and the County Assizes. And its Market, which is on Saturdays, is well served with Provisions. Of some Note besides for an Abbey, founded here by Maud the Empress; and Eustace Loveloft; the Ruins of which, and of a far more ancient Castle built by King Edward the Elder, are yet to be seen.

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This Town became an Earldom presently upon the Norman Conquest, the Title of it injoyed by several Families, before it came to George, Lord Hastings, created Earl of Hunting∣ton by King Henry VIII. Anno 1529. From whom is descended in a right Line the Right Honourable Theophilus Hastings, the present Earl of Huntington.

The other Market-Towns are

  • St. Ives, Mund.
  • Yaxley, Tue.
  • Ramsey, Wedn.
  • St. Neots, Thu. and
  • Kimbolton, Frid.

Among which St. Ives and St. Neots, two large and well-built Towns, and of good Antiqui∣ty, are seated on the Ouse, each of them with a fair Stone-Bridge over it. St. Ives so called from one Ivo, a Persian Bi∣shop, who about the Year 600. travelled (as 'tis said) through England, preaching the Gos∣pel, and here ended his Days. Whose Body, in a short time after, was removed to Bamsey Abbey. This Town is much resorted to for Cat∣tle by London Butchers.

St. Neots, or St. Needs, from Neotus a Monk of Glastenbury. A Man no less holy than learned, whose Body was translated hither from Neotstoke in Cornwal, and in whose Honour Earl Elfrides Palace was converted into a Mo∣nastery. This Town is beautified with a neat Church, and a fine Steeple to it.

A little beneath it, at a Place called Ailewe∣ston, are two Springs, the one fresh, and the other brackish; the first good for dim Sights, the other for curing of Scabs and Le∣prosy.

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Kimbolton, a pretty fair Town, seated in the bottom near Bedfordshire, is of chief note for giving the Title of Baron to the Earl of Man∣chster; whose Mansion is called the Castle of Kimbolton.

Ramsey is seated in the Fens among rich Grounds, towards Cambridgeshire, near the Meers of Ramsey and Whitlesey. Which, with the Rivers that plentifully water it, afford excellent Fish, and wild Fowl in great plenty. A noted Place in former time for its wonderfull rich Abbey, which continued in its glory till its Dissolution by King Henry VIII.

This County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants Part of the Iceni, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Lincoln.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Parliament Men, and these out of Huntington.

Kent.

KENT, in Latin Cantium, so called as being seated in a Canton or Corner of the Kingdom, is a large, rich, and pleasant Coun∣try ••••ying between the Thames and the Nar∣row Seas. So that it is invironed on all sides with the Sea, except Westward, where it bor∣ders both upon Surrey and Sussex.

It contains in Length, from East to West, 60 Miles; in Breadth, from North to South, 30. The Whole divided into five Lathes (cal∣led Sutton, Aylesford, Scray, St. Augustine, and Shepway Lathes,) and these into 67 Hundreds; wherein 408 Parishes, and 30 Market Towns. Which is an Argument of its Populousness.

But the Air is neither so serene, nor so health∣ful here, as in other Counties, especially near the Sea and Marshes; which makes this Coun∣try

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so noted for its Kentish Agues. Now, that you may know in few words the Nature of this Country, both as to its Air and Soil, I shall bring in the Remark made upon it, which is, that there are 3 Ridges of Hills in Kent, one called Health without Wealth, the second Health and Wealth, and the third Wealth without Health. Others, as to the Soil, give this different Character of it. The Weald for Wood, East Kent for Corn, Rumney for Meadow, Tenham for an Orchard, Shepey and Reculver for Wheat, Thanet for Barley, and Hed∣corn for Capons.

In general this may be said of Kent, that it is a Country very good for Corn, and fit for Pasturage, according to the several Plots and Parts thereof; and wondrous full of fruitful and well-ordered Orchards, from whence the City of London is supplied with most sorts of Fruit, but chiefly with Pippins and Cherries, which are counted the best in England. On the Cliffs between Deal and Dover, there grows a great store of Samphire.

The same is well watered with Rivers. For, besides the Thames that washes its North Parts, here is the Medway, which in a manner parts it in the middle, the Stower that runs by Can∣terbury, the Tun through Tunbridge, and the Rother upon which Appledore is seated, not to mention the lesser Streams.

Of all the Counties in England, this was the first Kingdom of the Heptarchy, and had a par∣ticular King to it self, which no other County ever had. Neither was it conquered by the Normans, the Kentish Men yielding upon Ar∣ticles, and having their ancient Franchises and Customs confirmed to 'em by William the Con∣queror. One of which is the Cavelkind, where∣by

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they are not so bound by Copy-hold as in other Parts of England; Lands of this nature being equally divided here among the male Children, and for want of Males, among the Females. By the same Law they are at age at 15 years old, and they may sell or make over the Land without the consent of the Lord. Also, the Son (tho of a convicted Father for Felony or Murder) succeeds him in such Kind of Lands.

The Kentish Men besides have this to glo∣ry in, that they were the first Christians of this Island. And this is the only County at this time that has two Cities, or Episcopal Sees, namely Canterbury and Rochester.

Canterbury, the chief Place of this County, is 46 miles East of London, Viz. from Lon∣don to Dartford, 12; to Rochester, 11 more; from thence to Sittingborn, 10; and to Canter∣bury, 13 more.

A City of great Antiquity, if it was built (as some Authors aver) 900 years before Christ. 'Tis seated on the River Stower, (noted for breeding the best Trouts in the South East Parts of England,) and is counted in the Lath of S. Augustine. The Buildings of it but mean, and the Wall which encompasses it, in a de∣cayed condition. The greatest Ornament of all is the Cathedral, wherein ly interred the Bodies of eight Kings. For this City had been the Seat of the Kings of Kent, till given by Ethelbert, the first Christian King of this Coun∣try, to Augustine the first Archbishop thereof, and his Successors. Whereupon the King re∣moved his Seat to Reculver, a Town by the Sea∣side. In this Cathedral is also interred the Bo∣dy of Thomas Becket, once Archbishop hereof, that famous Saint so reverenced by the Ro∣manists.

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In this City, and its Suburbs, are reckoned 14 Parish Churches; besides a Meet∣ing-place under the Cathedral, for the Walloon that dwell in this City, who are very nume∣rous, and drive a considerable Trade of the Stuffs they make here. It has two Markets a Week, Wednesdays and Saturdays, the latter of which is the most considerable.

But to the honour this City has had of being the Regal Seat of the first Kings of Kent, and of being to this day the See of the Primate of England, let us add the Coronation of King John and Queen Izabel his Wife, the Marriages of Henry II. and Edward I, and the Interments of Edward the black Prince, King Henry the Fourth, and Queen Joan his Wife, all which was performed in this Place.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Eltham, Mund.
  • Wrotham, Tue.
  • Lenham. Tue.
  • Westram, Wedn.
  • S. Mary Cray, Wedn.
  • Goldburst, Wedn.
  • Gravesend, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Feversham, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Dover, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Sandwich, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Wye, Thu.
  • Rumney, Thu.
  • Lyd, Thu.
  • Folkstone, Thu.
  • Maidstone, Thu.
  • Bromley, Thu.
  • Rochester, Frid.
  • Tunbridge, Frid.
  • Tenderden, Frid.
  • Woolwich, Frid.
  • Smarden, Frid.
  • Malinge, Sat.
  • Milton, Sat.
  • Cranbrook, Sat.
  • Hythe, Sat.
  • Ashford, Sat.
  • Sevenoke, Sat.
  • Dartford, Sat.
  • Appledore,

Page 113

Among which Rockester requires the pre∣eminence, as a Bishops See, and the second for Antiquity in all the Island. It is seated upon the Medway, over which it has a state∣ly Stone-bridge, one of the fairest in England. It consists most of one principal Street, which extends it self a long way; the Houses being but ordinary, as they are inhabited for the most part but by Trades-men and Inn-keepers. Yet, besides the Honour it has of being a Bishops See, it is dignify'd with the Title of an Earl∣dom in the Person of the Right Honourable Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, Viscount Hyde, &c. Which Title was formerly enjoy'd by three Wilmots; And, before them, there was a Viscount of this Place, Sir Robert Carr be∣ing created Viscount of Rochester, Anno 1611. and afterwards Earl of Somerset.

Adjoyning to this City is Chatham, also seated on the Banks of Medway. A long Thorough∣fare Town, well inhabited by Seamen and Ship∣wrights, as being the principal Station of the Royal Navy, and having a good Dock and Store-houses, for the building and equipping of his Majesties Ships.

Maidstone is seated also on the Medway, but near the head of it. This is the Town where the County-Goal, Sessions, and Assizes are kept; be∣ing conveniently seated for that purpose, and a Place of good resort.

Gravesend is seated on a rising Hill on the Banks of the Thames. A Town of great Re∣fort for Travellers, both by Sea and Land, that either come up the Thames to London, or go down the River in order to take Ship∣ping; well furnished therefore with Inns, and other Houses of Entertainment, but noted for their exactings. Over against it, in Essex, is

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Tilbury-Fort, that commands this Passage.

Nearer to London stands Dartford, on the River Darent, not far from its Influx into the Thames; which gives good advantage to the Town, in conveying their Goods to London. The Town is large; and, being in Dover Road, is therefore well accommodated with Inns and Houses of Entertainment. Of chief note for the Rebellion begun here, and headed by John Tiler, (commonly nick-named Jack∣straw,) in the Reign of Richard the second, Anno 1381.

Woolwich, seated on the Thames, is remark∣able for nothing but its Dock, used for the Royal Navy.

But nearer to London stand Greenwich and Deptford, two Towns of better account, tho they be no Market-Towns. The first is plea∣santly seated on the Banks of the Thames, a neat and healthful Place, well inhabited and frequented by Gentry. Adjoyning to which is a Royal House, called Queen Elizabeth's Pallace, with a Park about it, yielding a fair Prospect. Besides another Pallace by the Rivers-side, first built by Humphrey Duke of Glocester, and after him inlarged and beauti∣fy'd by several Kings; till being fallen to ruin, King Charles II. attempted to make it a state∣ly Pile of Building, but left it unfinished. Ad∣joyning to Greenwich is Black-Heath, noted for the Battels fought here against Rebels, under the Reigns of Richard II. Henry VI. and Henry VII.

Deptford is another large Town, divided into the Upper and the Lower; seated the nearest to Surrey, at the very fall of the Ravensburn (a small River) into the Thames, among rich and low Meadows. A Town well

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inhabited and frequented by Sea-men, by rea∣son of its Docks and Store-houses for the Na∣vy Royal.

Bromley stands upon the same River; graced with the Bishop of Rochester's Seat (a Coun∣try House) by it. One of whose late Prede∣cessors, I mean Dr. Warner, founded here a Colledge for 20 Clergy-mens Widows. Where each one hath a fair Apartment, and 20 l. a Year Rent-Charge duly paid; and, for their publick Devotion, a Chaplain, provided with fair Lodgings, and 50 l. a Year Rent-Charge.

Eltham, seated on the South-side of Shooters∣hill, among Woods, is a neat Town, and well inhabited by Gentry. Formerly honoured with Royal Pallace, but laid aside and gone to decay, since Greenwich came to be lookt upon (as indeed it is) a Place of greater Delight.

Near Westram, on the Darent, stands Ot∣ford, on or near the same River, a place of good Antiquity. Noted for the Battel sought here betwixt King Edmund surnamed Iron∣side, and Canute the Dane, wherein Canute was put to flight, with the Loss of 5000 Danes.

S. Mary Cray is so called from Cray, a small (but swift) River, on which it is situate in a Wood-land Country. Its Market is very in∣considerable.

Sevenoke, not far distant from thence, is a Town of good Resort. Here is an Hospi∣tal, and a Free-School, founded by one Wil∣liam Sevenoke, Lord Mayor of London, Anno 1418. who was a Foundling in this Town, and from hence took his Name.

Tunbridge, so called from the River Tun upon which it is seated, within few miles of its fall into the Medway, is a noted place for its

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mineral Waters, so much resorted unto by the Gentry, and drunk in the Summer-Season. Known by the Name of Tunbridge-Wells, tho' at some distance from thence, at a Place cal∣led Speldherst.

Cranbrook is seated at the very head of the River Medway, and Lenham at the Spring of the Stower. Upon which last River you will find also both Ashford and Wye. And, upon the Rother, Appledore, an Island called Oxney-Isle.

This Island is seated in the South-West Parts of Kent, towards Sussex; incompassed with the River Rother, and a lesser River that runs into it. It has but 3 Towns in it, Wittrisham, Stonae, and Ebony, all three but inconsidera∣ble.

North-Eastward, near the Isle of Shepey, lie Milton and Feversham; the first a Place of good account in the Reign of Edward the Con∣fessour, but Feversham the best trading Place at this time. For it has the Conveniency of a Creek that comes up to it, which makes it the chief Port-Town for all this Part of Kent, being well frequented by Hoys, and such like small Vessels. The Town is large, and well inhabited; and its Markets well served with Provisions. But it is counted an Aguish Place. Here was ere∣cted an Abbey by King Stephen where him∣self, his Queen, and Eustace his Son were bu∣ried. Of late years it has been dignified with the Title of an Earldom, in the Person of the Right Honourable Lewis de Duras, Earl of Feversham, &c. And, since that, it has made a greater Noise in the World, on the account of the late King's landing there Incognito, in the first Attempt he made to withdraw himself in∣to France.

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Not far from this Town are Pits of a great depth, narrow at the mouth, and very broad below; with several distinct Rooms in 'em and Pillars of Chalk, as it were to support, them.

Whitstable and Reculver are two Sea-Towns, few Miles North of Canterbury, well fre∣quented by Hoymen and Fishermen. Recul∣ver, of special note, for that Ethelbert, the first Christian King of Kent, had his Palace, and did reside here. Its Church remarkable for its lofty spired Steeple, which serves for a Sea-Mark.

I come now to the Cinque-Port Towns that belong to this County, Those are called Cinque∣Forts, which lying on the Coast of Kent and Sussex had great Priviledges granted them by former Kings, the better to enable 'em to se∣ture these Coasts against the Incroachments of France. They were at first but five, as is mply'd by the Word, which is originally French. But three more were added to 'em, which makes up the Number of eight. Where∣of four are in this County, Viz. Dover, Sand∣ich, Hythe, and Nw Rumney; the others in Sussex, to wit, Rye, Winchelsey, Seaford, and Hastings. And of these in their proper place.

Dover, the principal of 'em, stands over a∣gainst Calais in France; the Passage by Sea being reckoned but 7 Leagues (or 21 Miles) over. Seated it is in the very South-East Point of Kent, in a Bottom among Cliffs, from whence one may easily discern the Coast of France. Upon one of those Cliffs stands the Castle, both to command and defend the Town, which some will have to be built by Julius Caesar. A Castle of that importance, that Philip King of France,

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when Lewis his Son (being called in hither by the factious Barons against King John) had gotten many Towns and Forts, without being able to get the mastery of this, slighted all that was taken, and said his Son had not one Foot of Land in England, if he were not Ma∣ster of Dover-Castle. As to the Buildings of this Town, they are but mean; tho' it be in Time of Peace the greatest Thorow-fare for Travellers from England to France, and from that Kingdom to this. It has formerly had 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Parish-Churches, which are now reduced to two. Its Haven is indifferent good, and (as Calais on the other side of the Water) fit on∣ly for smaller Vessels. As for honourary Ti∣tles, I don't find any it has yielded before the Reign of King Charles I, by whom Henry Carey, Viscount Rochford, and Baron Hunsden, was created Earl of Dover, Anno 1627. Which Title expired with his Son John Carey, dying without Issue-male in the Year 1667; the Barony continuing in the Collateral Line.

Sandwich lies about 12 miles North from Dover, and was formerly a Place of good Strength. But, since the Sea has forsaken it, and its Haven has been choakt up, it has los much of its Trade and Reputation. Noted however for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Edward Montague, the pre∣sent Earl of Sandwich. Devolved to him from his Father, Edward Montague, created Baro Montague of S. Neots, Viscount Hinchingbroo and Earl of Sandwich, by King Charles II 1660. Who lost his Life in a Sea-fight against the Dutch, May 29. 1672.

Hythe, another of the Cinque-Port Towns has run the same fate as Sandwich, by the un∣kindness of the Sea. It lies South and by Wes

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from Dover, within a Mile of Sangate Ca∣de.

Rumney is seated in a Marsh so called, a∣bout 14 Miles long, and 8 broad. Much more famous for the Conveniency of the Marsh in the Grazing of Cattel, than either for good Air or a good Harbour.

To the Port of Dover belongs Folkstone, as a Member thereof; a Sea-Town near San∣gate Castle, formerly containing 5 Parish Churches, now reduced to one.

Lyd is likewise a Member of the Cinque-Ports. And so are Deal and Fordwich, Mem∣bers of the Town and Port of Sandwich. The irst of which is of most note in these Parts for the Fleets that from time to time harbour ereabouts, in order to sail East or West.

The Kentish Isles, Thanet and Shepey.

In the North-East Parts of Kent, near andwich, is an Island called Thanet, sur∣rounded on all sides with the Sea, except West∣ward, where it is severed from the main Land by the River Stoure, here called Yenlade; but so, that, by the benefit of a Causey and Passage for the Waters in convenient Places, it is united to the Continent (or main Land) of Kent. This Island called by the Saxons Thanet, from Thanatos, or Athanatos, by which Name it is found in Solinus, is about 9 Miles in length, and 8 in breadth at the broadest.

An Island plentifully stored with Provisions, but Corn especially; and withall very popu∣lous. Famous for being the Place which the Saxons landed at, when they first came into Britain; the first Livery and Seisin which they had of the whole Kingdom, conferred by the improvident Bounty of Vortiger, to whose

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Aid they were called in. And no less remar∣kable for being the Landing Place of Augu∣stine the Monk, when he brought the Gospel to the victorious Heathen Saxons, and by his Preaching subjected them to the Rules of Chri∣stianity.

At Stonar, a Port Town of this Island, is the Sepulchre (says Heylin) of Vortimer, King of the Britains. Who, having vanquished the Saxons in many Battels, and finally driven them out of the Island, desired to be here interred, on a fond conceit that his dead Corps would fright them from Landing any more upon these Goasts. Which he did probably in imi∣tation of that Scipio, who having had a for∣tunate Hand against those of Carthage, gave order that his Tomb should be turned towards Africk, to fright the Carthaginians from the Coasts of Italy. But the Britains found at last by sad experience, the difference there is be∣twixt a King in the Field and a King in the Grave.

On the North Shore of this Island is a Point of Land, of special note among Mariners, by the Name of North Foreland. And the whole Isle in general is noted for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Thomas Tuf∣ton, the present Earl of Thanet.

Shepey is another Island, much about the bigness of the former. Surrounded on all sides with the Sea, except Southward, where it is parted by the Medway from the main Land of Kent. This is likewise a very fruitful I∣sland, winch from the great Flocks of Sheep that feed here, came perhaps to be called She∣pey. 'Tis well watered with Rivers, espe∣cially the South Parts of it. And the Soil of it has a peculiar quality, in not breeding

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of Moles. This Island has been much haras∣sed by the Danes, and by the Followers of Earl Goodwin and his Sons. At present it gives the Title of Countess to the Lady Eli∣zabeth, Countess of Shepey, Lady Dacres, &c. The chief Place is Queenborough, which stands on the West Coast. Besides which here are se∣veral other Towns, as Minster, East-Church, Warden, Leysden, Elmley, &c.

West from this Island is another of a small Compass, on which stands the Fort called Sheerness, which commands the Mouth of the Thames and Medway.

To conclude, as to the County of Kent, it stands now divided between the Diocese of Canterbury and Rochester, and was (as I said before) a Kingdom of it self in the Time of the Heptarchy. Called Cantium and the Inha∣bitants Cantii, by the Romans.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 16 Members of Parliament. Viz. Two out of each of these Towns, Canterbury, Ro∣chester, Maidstone, and Queenborough; besides these Cinque-Port Towns, Sandwich, Dover, Hythe, and New-Rumney.

It has been for several Ages dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, that is, ever since the Entrance of the Normans, but not without seve∣ral Interruptions. Till upon the Death of William Nevil, Earl thereof, the Title was con∣ferred by King Edward IV. upon Edmund Grey, Lord Ruthen, Created Earl of Kent An∣no 1465. From whom is descended the Right Honourable Anthony Grey, the present Earl of Kent, Grandchild of Anthony Grey Clerk, Par∣son of Burbage in the County of Leicester. Who, upon the Death of Henry Grey, without Issue

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Male, Anno 1639. was advanced to this Title, as the next Heir to it, being Grandchild of Anthony, third Son of George Grey, the Son of Edmund aforesaid.

Lastly, to those several Things Remarkable in this County, which I brought in occasional∣ly, I shall only add, That at Egerton is a Spring, whose Water turns Wood into Stone. And at Boxley-Abbey another Spring of the same nature, the Water whereof will turn in 9 days time Sticks and small Wood into Stone.

CHAP. XI.

Of Lancashire, Leicester, and Lin∣colnshire.

Lancashire.

LANCASHIRE, or the County Pala∣tine of Lancaster, is a large Maritim County, in the North-West Parts o England. Founded on the East with York shire, and part of Derbyshire; on the Wes by the Irish Sea; on the North, by Cumberlan and Westmorland; and on the South, by Ch∣shire.

Its Length, from North to South, is 57 miles its Breadth, from East to West, 32. The Who divided into six Hundreds, wherein 61 Parishe and 26 Market-Towns. The Number of Parish

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but small, in so large a quantity of Ground; but that there are many Chappels of Ease, equal to Parishes elsewhere for Multitudes of People.

Here the Air is sharp, thin, and piercing, seldom troubled with Fogs. And the Inhabi∣tants accordingly are healthfull, comely, strong, and long-lived, not subject to many Disea∣ses.

The Soil differs much, according to its dif∣ferent nature and situation; some Parts being Mountainous, and of the Champain Country some very fruitfull, some Mossy, and the rest Moorish.

The Champain Country is very good for Wheat and Barley; but that which lies at the bottom of the Hills is best for Oats.

From the Mosses, which are not unlike the Irish Bogs, some of them many Miles in Com∣pass, the common People get Turves for their Firing. And sometimes they dig up Trees out of them, which serve both for Building and Fewel. Cambden seems to be of Opinion, that they are subterraneous Trees growing un∣der Ground, as some other Plants do.

The Mountainous Part, which lies East∣ward, is full of stony, craggy, and barren Hills, bare of Wood, and the Habitation of Foxes, Conies, Otters, &c. Amongst these Hills, some are of a prodigious height; espe∣cially Pendle-Hill, on the top whereof grow's a peculiar Plant called Cloudsberry, as coming from the Clouds. But one thing besides is remarkable in this Hill, that, whenever the Top of it is covered with a Mist, 'tis an in∣fallible Sign of Rain.

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The Country in general is well watered with Rivers; the chief whereof are the Mer∣sey, the Rible, and the Lon, all three running from East to West into the Irish Sea. The Mersey Waters the South Parts, and serves for a Boundary betwixt this County and Che∣shire; the Rible waters the middle; and the Lon, the North Parts.

Besides these Rivers, and many others of less note, here are several great Meers (or Lakes,) as Merton, and Winder (or Wimander) Meer. This last divides part of Lancashire from West∣morland, reaching about 10 miles in length, and 3 or 4 in breadth. It has (as most Lakes in the North) a clear pebbly Bottom, whence the Saying, that this Lake is all paved with Stone. And it breeds great store of Fish, particularly Trouts, Pikes, Pearches, Eels, and Skellies. But there's one sort of Fish peculiar to it, and not to be found else∣where, except in Vlles Water, another Lake, bordering both upon Cumberland and West∣morland. Charre is the Name of it, and 'tis a dainty Fish, whereof many Pies are yearly sent abroad for Presents.

In short, tho' this Country in general cannot be called a fruitfull Country, yet what is good of it yields abundance of good Grass and Corn, the fairest Oxen in England, and in general all sorts of Provisions. Fish and Fowl particularly here's great plenty of; and in the River Lon, near Cockerfand Abbey, is great store of Salmon.

To make Linnen, here grows a great deal of Flax; for Fewel the Country yields, not only fat Earth, but good Coals; and for Build∣ing, Quarries of good Stone.

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Lancaster, the Shre Town, bears from Lon∣don North-West and by North, and is distant therefrom (by common computation) 187 miles, thus. From London to Stafford, 104, for the particulars whereof I refer you to Staffordshire. Then from Stafford to Stone, 10; to Newcastle, 6 more; thence to Warington, 20; to Wigan, 14 more; to Preston, 14 more; then to Gar∣stang, 10; and to Lancaster, 15 more.

A Town pleasantly seated, in a good Soil, on the South-side of the iver Lon, near its fall into the Sea. From which River it came to be called Loncaster, since turn'd into Lancaster, as from Lancaster the whole County took the Name of Lancashire. The Town not very well peopled, nor much frequented. There are in it several fair and long Streets, from the Length whereof this Town (I suppose) might be called Longovicus by the Emperor Antonine. And yet there is but one Parish-Church, which indeed is large and fair. It stands on the side of a Hill; on the top of which is the Castle, now made use of for the County Goal both for Debtors and Malefactors, and for keeping the Assizes for the County. Besides the Church and Castle, two of the chief Ornaments of this Town, here's a fair Stone-Bridge over the Lon, supported by five Arches. To which add the Market-house, or Town-hall, where the Mayor and his Brethren keep their Courts. Its Market, which is kept on Saturdays, is com∣monly well furnished with all sorts of Provi∣sions, but Fish (and among the rest, Salmon,) especially.

Lastly, this Town is of sufficient Fame in the Annals of England, for those noble Per∣sons which have successively born the Titles of Earls and Dukes of it; the greatest Princes

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in their time, for Revenues, of any Subjects in Christendom. Of which House there have been four Kings of England, all under the Name of Henry, viz. Henry the fourth, the fifth, the sixth, and the seventh. The last, by marrying with Elizabeth, Daughter and Heir to Edward IV. of the House of York, did hap∣pily unite the two Houses of York and Lanca∣ster; Whose Competition for the Crown of England, under the Names of Red and White Roses, had caused more Blood-shed than the Conquest of France by the English.

The Market-Towns of this County, besides Lancaster, are

  • Manchester, Sat.
  • Leverpool, Sat.
  • Clitheroe, Sat.
  • Dalton, Sat.
  • Blackborn, Mund.
  • Poulton, Mund.
  • Cartmill, Mund.
  • Hornby, Mund.
  • Hawkshead, Mund.
  • Wigan, Mund. & Frid.
  • Rochdale, Tue.
  • Chorley, Tue.
  • Ormskirk, Tue.
  • Kirkham, Tue.
  • Prescot, Tue.
  • Coln, Wedn.
  • Haslington, Wedn.
  • Warington, Wedn.
  • Preston, Wedn. Frid. Sat.
  • Bury. Thu.
  • Garstang, Thu.
  • Ʋlverston Thu.

Besides Leigh, and reat Eccleston, whose Market-days I am ignorant of.

Manchester, is seated upon a stony Hill in the South-East Parts of the County, between the Rivers Irk and Irwell, both which empty themselves, not far off into the Mersey. This Town, called by Antonine the Emperour Man∣tunium, was a Station of the Romans. And it

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is to this day a Town much beyond Lancaster, in beauty, and populousness. Its chief Orna∣ments are the Colledge, and the Market-Place; but, above all, the Collegiate Church, beauti∣fied with a small Quire of excellent Workman∣ship. Honoured besides with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Honoura∣ble Charles Montague, the present Earl of Man∣chester; derived to him from his great Grand∣father Henry Montague, Viscount Mandeville, created Earl of Manchester by King Charles I. Anno 1625. being then Lord Treasurer, and President of the Council, and afterwards Lord Privy Seal.

And lastly, 'tis a noted Place for its Linnen and Woollen Cloths; as also for its Cottons, which are held in great esteem.

Leverpool is the next Place of chief note in this County. Tis an excellent Sea-port, com∣modiously seated at the fall of the River Mer∣sey into the Sea, where it affords a safe Har∣bour for Ships, and a convenient Passage into Ireland. To the immortal Praise of the Fami∣ly of the Mores of Banck-hall, this Town has been very much improved and beautified, at their Charge and Industry. Here is a Town∣house erected upon Pillars and Arches of hewn Stone, and underneath an Exchange for the Merchants. Among its Antiquities, a Castle on the South-side, which commands the Pool, built by King John, during his stay here for a Wind to Ireland; and on the West-side, upon the River, the Tower, being a stately and strong Pile of Building.

Preston, near to Leverpool, is a fair, large, well inhabited and frequented Borough-Town. Seated on the North-side of the Rible, over which it has a very fair Stone-bridge. In this

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Town are held the Court of Chancery, and Offices of Justice for Lancaster, as a County Palatine.

Not far from Preston aforesaid is a small Town, from the River on which it is situate, called Rible-Chester, which has been esteemed and called the richest Town in Christendom. No doubt but it has been a Place of great account in the Time of the Romans, if we consider the many Statues, pieces of Coin, Al∣tars, Pillars, Inscriptions, and other Pieces of Antiquity, that have been often digged up here.

Wigan is another Town of note in this Coun∣try. Seated on the River Dowles, and much inhabited by Braziers, Pewterers, Diers, Weavers of Rugs, Coverlets, and Tackling for Bedding. Of special note for the choicest Coal in Eng∣land, called Caunel; but most of all for a burn∣ing Well, not far from it.

Warington, a good large Town, is seated on the River Mersey, over which there's a fine Stone-bridge, which leads to Cheshire. Dig∣nify'd of late with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Honourable Henry Booth, Earl of Warington, and Baron De la Mere.

Poulton, Bury, and Rochdale, lie not far asunder; the first on the Irwell, and Rochdale on the River Rock, in a Vale.

Coln is situate on a little Hill, near the Eastern Confines of the-County; Blackborn, near the Derwent; Ormskirk, not far from Merton Meer; Kikham, near the Mouth of the Rible; Garstang, near the Wire; and Hornby, on the Lon. This last noted for its Castle, called Hornby-Castle, the ancient Seat of the Lord Morley and Mounteagle.

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Hawkshead is placed in a hilly and woody Country; Clitheroe, towards Pendle-hill; Dal∣ton, in a Champain Country, not far from the Sea; and Ʋlverston, commonly called Ouslon, on a small Stream, which empties it self not far off into the Sea, or an Arm thereof, near Lever-Sand.

Lastly, this County (formerly a Part of the Kingdom of Northumberland, and its Inhabi∣tants part of the Brigantes, as the Romans cal∣led them) is now in the Diocess of Lincoln.

It was made a County Palatine by King Edward the Third. And out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 12 Mem∣bers of Parliament, Viz. two out of each of these Towns, Lancaster, Leverpool, Preston, Wigan, Clitheroe, and, Newton.

Leicester∣shire.

LEICESTERSHIRE, an Inland County, is bounded on the East by the Coun∣ties of Lincoln and Rutland; on the West, by Warwickshire; Northward, by Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire; and Southward, by Nor∣thamptonshire.

Its Length, from East to West, is about 30 miles; its Breadth, from North to South, about 25. The whole divided into six Hundreds, wherein 192 Parishes, and 12 Market-Towns.

The Air in this County is mild and whol∣som; and the Inhabitants accordingly are healthy, and long-lived.

The Soil, in the South-East parts especially, is extream fertile for all sorts of Grain, but chiefly Peas and Beans; and has also rich Pastures, feeding Cattel and Sheep in great Numbers, whose Wool for its fineness is had in great esteem. But the North-West part is gene∣rally barren, and in some places rocky and sto∣ny.

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About the Forest of Charwood (where is Bardon-Hill) is great store of Lime-Stone, wherewith they manure their Ground.

For Fewel, this Country is but thinly cloathed with Wood, especially in the South-East Parts. But this Defect is sufficiently sup∣ply'd by the great plenty of Pit-coal digged up in the North Parts.

Here are a great many small Rivers, but none of any long Course, besides the Stower and the Wreak.

Leicester, the County Town, bears from London North-North-West, and is distant therefrom 78 miles, thus. Viz. from Lon∣don to Northampton 54, for the particulars of which I refer you to Northamptonshire; from Northampton to Harborough, 12, and from thence to Leicester, 12 more.

It is pleasantly seated in a good Air, and rich Soil, on the Banks of the Stower (of old called Leir) that washes its North and West Parts, and over which it has two Bridges. Once a Bishops See, and in those Days. beau∣tified with a fair Collegiate Church, a magni∣ficent Abbey, and a strong Castle, all decay'd and ruined by the iniquity and injury of the Times. As to the present State of it, it is indifferent large, containing 3 Parish Churches, has several good Buildings, and is well inha∣bited. In short, 'tis in as good plight, both for Trade and Buildings, as most Towns are that want a navigable River. And its Mar∣ket, which is on Saturdays, is well served with Provisions, and Country Commodities.

Noted besides for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Philip Sidney, the present Earl of Leicester. Derived to him from his Father Robert, Son and Heir of Robert Sidney,

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Viscount Lisle, created Earl of Leicester, and Baron of Penthurst, by King James the first, Anno 1618. Which Robert was descended of a Sister of Robert Dudley, the last of many Earls of Leicester before him.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Ashby, Sat.
  • Hinkley, Mund.
  • Mont-Sorel, Mund.
  • Melton-Mowbray Tue.
  • Harborough Tue.
  • Bosworth, Wedn.
  • Loughborow, Thu.
  • Waltham, Thu.
  • Hallaton, Thu.
  • Lutterworth, Thu.
  • Billesden, Frid.

Among which Ashby, or Ashby de la Zouche, is seated between two Parks, on the Borders of Derbyshire. In whose Neighbourhood is Cole. Overton, noted for its Pit-coals. Hinkley stands on the Borders of Warwickshire; beau∣tified with a fair and large Church, and a lofty Spire-Steeple.

Mont-Sorrel is seated on a great Eminency, near the Stowr, over which it has a Bridge. Of some note formerly for its famous Castle, that stood on a steep and craggy Hill, but is long since demolished. At Barrow, near ad∣joyning, is digged up excellent Lime, much com∣mended for its binding.

Melton-Mowbray is situate in a fertile Soil, on the banks of the Wreak, over which it has two Stone-bridges. Harborough, on the Borders of Northamptonshire, and the banks of the Weland, which parts the two Counties.

Bosworth is loftily seated on a Hill, and in a fertile Soil. Noted for the bloody Battle fought at Redmore, near adjoyning, betwixt Richard III. and his Successor Henry VII.

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Which decided the long-depending Differences betwixt the Houses of York and Lancaster, giving the Crown from Richard to Henry, de∣scended from the latter House. Richard being slain in this Battle, his Body was ignomini∣ously cast cross a Horse's back, naked and torn in pieces, and meanly buried in the Grey-Friars of Leicester. Which being afterwards destroy'd, the Stone-Chest wherein the Corps lay, serves now in an Inn for a drinking Trough for Horses.

Loughborow, a good handsom Town, flands pleasantly, among fertile Meadows, near the Forest of Charwood, on the Banks of the Ri∣ver Stowr, over which it has a Bridge. Lutter∣worth, a goodly Town also, beautified with a large and fair Church, with a neat and lofty Spire-Steeple, is seated in a good Soil, on the River Swift, which at a small distance from hence, falls into the Avon in Warwickshire. Of this Town the famous Wicless was Parson, an okl Champion against the Corruptions and Errours of the Church of Rome.

This County (now in the Diocese of Lin∣coln) was part of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia, in the Time of the Heptarchy; and its Inhabitants (with several of their Neigh∣bours) went, among the ancient Romans, under the Name of Coritani.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Members of Parliament, chosen by the Town of Lei∣cester.

Lincoln∣shire.

LINCOLNSHIRE, a large Maritime County, is bounded on the East with the Ger∣man Ocean; on the West, with the Counties of York, Nottingham, and Leicester; on the

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North, with the River Humber, which parts it from Yorkshire; on the South, with the Counties of Cambridge, Northampton, and Rutland.

It contains in Length, from North to South, almost 60 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 35. The Whole divided into 3 Parts, called Lindsey, Kesteven, and Holland. And these 3 Divisions contain 30 Hundreds, wherein 630 Pa∣rishes, and 35 Market-Towns.

This Country being Fenny, especially in the East and South Parts, makes the Air some∣thing unhealthful, because it is apt to be thick and foggy.

The Soil, in the North and West Parts, is exceeding pleasant and fertile, stored with Pasturage, Arable, and Meadow Grounds. But the East and South Parts, that are full of Fenny Grounds, and something brackish by reason of the Salt Waters that come in from the Sea through several Inlets, are barren, and unfit for Corn. 'Tis true, in recompence thereof, there is such a plenty both of Fowl and Fish, that no County in the Kingdom can compare with it. And there goes a Story, that at one draught with a Net 300 Mallards have been taken, besides other sorts. How true it is, I am as yet to seek; but am apt to think, there's one Cypher too much.

As for Rivers, no County in England is better irrigated, nor Rivers any where more plentifull of Fish. Northward is the Humber, which (as I said before) parts it from York∣shire; and Westward the Trent, which severs Part of it from Nottinghamshire. Cross the Country you will find the Witham River; South∣ward, the Weland, and the Nen.

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That Part of the County which goes by the Name of Lindsey lies to the Northward, and is so named from Lindissi, the ancient Name of Lincoln, according to Beda. This Part is so surrounded with Water, that it is an Island; and its Extent so great, in pro∣portion to the rest, that it takes up at least one half of the County. Noted for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Robert Bertie, the present Earl of Lindsey, Lord Great Chamberlain of England. Kesteven, and Holland take up the South Parts from Lindsey, Holland lying towards the Sea, and Kesteven West from it. Of Holland there has been 3 Earls, Henry, Robert, and Edward Rich. The first, created Earl of Holland by King James I. Anno 1624. Robert, his Son, succeed∣ed not only in this Title, but also in that of Earl of Warwick, upon the Death of his Cousin∣german, Charles Rich, Earl of Warwick, who died without Issue. So that both Titles are now injoyd by his Son and Heir, the Right Honourable Edward Rich, the present Earl of Warwick and Holland.

Lincoln, the principal Place in this Shire, and a Bishops See, bears from London North by West, and is distant from it (by common Computation) 103 miles, thus. Viz. from London to Huntington, 48 miles, for the Par∣ticulars whereof I refer you to Huntington∣shire; from thence to Stilton, 9; to Peterborough 5 more; to Market-Deeping, 8; to Sleaford, 18 more; and thence to Lincoln, 15.

A City seated on the side of a Hill, the lower part whereof is watered by the River Witham; over which there are several Bridges, for the Conveniency of Passengers. A Place of great Antiquity, whose ancient ruinated

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Places are still an Argument of its former Greatness. In the Time of the Romans 'twas a Town of great strength and fame; and, in the Time of the Normans a Place of great Trading. Whose flourishing Condition occa∣sioned the Episcopal See, then at Dorchester near Oxon, to be removed hither. But this City has gone through all the Calamities of Fire, Sword, and Earth-quake. Which has so much weakned and impaired it, that of 50 Churches it is said to have had for divine Worship, there remains but 15, besides the Cathedral.

In the Time of the Saxons, King Arthur drove away their Forces from this Place. The like did Edmund Ironside to the Danes, who had made sore havock thereof. On the 5th of Sept. 1140. here was a great Battel fought between King Stephen and Maud the Empress, in which the King was taken Pri∣soner, and afterwards laid in irons in Bristol. On the 19th of May 1217. here was ano∣ther sore Battel fought betwixt King Henry III. and his disloyal Barons, who stood for Lewis the Dauphin of France; in which the King got the day.

But, whatever Disasters and Calamities this City has gone through, still 'tis a large, populous, and well frequented Place. Dig∣nified not only with an Episcopal See, whose Diocese to this day is the greatest of any in the Kingdom; but also for many Ages, with the Title of an Earldom. Which, having passed through severall Families, with frequent Interruptions, came at last to be in the pos∣session of Edward Fiennes, Lord Clinton, who being Lord Admiral in Queen Elizabeth's Time, was by her Majesty created Earl

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of Lincoln, Anno 1565. From whom the Ti∣tle is now devolved, in a direct Line, to the Right Honourable Edward Clinton, the present Earl of Lincoln.

The Cathedral, or Minster, as now standing, is one of the stateliest Piles in En∣gland, and perhaps in Christendom; high seated on a Hill, and from thence discerned over all the Country. In short, this City is a County of it self, whose Liberties extend about 20 miles in compass; and is called the County of the City of Lincoln. Its Market kept on Fridays, is well served with Provisions, and Country Commodities.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Grantham, Sat.
  • Kirkton, Sat.
  • Thongcaster, Sat.
  • Waynfleet, Sat.
  • Horn-Castle, Sat.
  • Dunington, Sat.
  • Burton, Sat.
  • Bourn, Sat.
  • Spilsby, Mun.
  • Salsby, Mun.
  • Sleaford, Mun.
  • Market-Stanton, Mun.
  • Stamford, Mund. & Frid.
  • Ganesborough, Tue.
  • Barton, Tue.
  • Market-Rasen, Tue.
  • Bullingbrook, Tue.
  • Spalding, Tue.
  • Alford, Tue.
  • Grinsby, Wedn.
  • Binbrook, Wedn.
  • Lowthe, Wed. and Sat.
  • Boston, Wed. and Sat.
  • Glamford, Thu.
  • Burgh, Thu.
  • Market-Deeping, Thu.
  • Folkingham, Thu.
  • Holbich, Thu.
  • Wragby, Thu.
  • Naverby, Thu.
  • Tatershall, Frid.
  • ...Saltfleet,
  • ...Crowland,
  • ...Barnwell,

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Among which Stamferd in Kesteven Division, and the hithermost Town of Lincolnshire, is the most considerable. Seated on both sides of the River Weland, so that it stands upon three Counties; the chief Part in Lincoln∣hire, another part in Rutland, and that Part on this side the River in Northamptonshire. Over which River, some time since made na∣rigable, it has several Bridges. A Town of good Antiquity, from whence the Roman High-way, or high Dike, leadeth to the North. ut that which gives it most Renown is hat, upon a Quarrel between the North ••••d South-Men in the University of Oxford, he Scholars removed hither in the Reign of Edward III, and here held publick Schools of ll sorts of Learning. Nor did they return gain, till they were commanded so to do by he King's Proclamation, with Order that the Scholars, in taking their Degrees, should make ath not to read publickly at Stamford, to he prejudice of Oxford. Nevertheless the Town still flourished in Trade and Merchan∣ize; and the Inhabitants of it to this day rive a good Trade, of Malt especially, where∣f great plenty is made here. The Houses re built of free Stone, which they have rom Ketton Quarry. In short, this Town onsists of several Streets, begirt with a Wall, nd containing six Parish Churches. Dig∣ify'd besides with the Title of an Earldom, ow in the person of the Right Honourable Thomas Grey of Groby, Earl of Stamford, c. Within half a mile of this Town, in orthamptonshire, stands Burgley House, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 stately Building, the Mansion-House of the Earl of Exeter.

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Grantham, situate on the River Witham, is a Town of good account, and well resorted unto. Whose Church-Steeple is so very high, that it seems crooked to the Eye of the Be∣holder.

Not far from hence, towards Leicestershire, is Belvoir Castle, the Earl of Rutland's Seat, so highly elevated (though in a Vale) that it yields a most admirable Prospect. About this Castle is found the Astroit, or Star∣like Stone, pointed with five beams or rays; formerly of such an esteem, that he thought the Victory infallible on his side that wore one about him.

Sleaford stands near the head of a River so called, which runs into the Witham. A large and well inhabited Town, formerly streng∣thened with a Castle, whose ruinous Walls are yet standing.

Market-Deeping is seated not far from Stam∣ford, on the Weland, but in a fenny Ground. Where Richard de Rulos, Chamberlain to William the Conqueror, for the hindering it Overflowing, raised its Banks, and built there on divers Tenements; so that it became a great Village, and is now an indifferent Town.

Bourn, seated at the head of a Spring calle Burnwell-head, is a goodly Town, of some not for being the Place where King Edmund wa crowned. Here are still to be seen the Rui of a good Castle. And, not far from hence is Swinsted-Abbey, one of whose Monks (n∣med Simon) poisoned King John.

Ganesborough, or Gainsborough, in Lindse Part, is seated on the River Trent. A larg and well-built Town, of a considerable Trade▪ Where Sueno, the Danish Tyrant, was stabbe to death by an unknown hand, as a just Reard

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for his many Outrages committed in the ountry. Noted besides for giving the Title f Earl to the Right Honourable Wriothesly Noel, the present Earl of Gainsborough.

Barton is seated on the River Humber, al∣ost over against Hull in Yorkshire. Here 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a considerable Ferry into Yorkshire, which s no small Advantage to the Town.

About this Place are abundance of Pewets, Godwits, Knots, and Dotterels; the last a sim∣ple kind of Bird, yet much given to Imita∣ing. And 'tis usually caught by Candle∣ight in this manner. The Fowler stands efore the Bird; and if he put out an Arm, he Bird stretches out a Wing; if he put a eg or his Head forward, the Bird does the ike. Thus he imitates the Fowler's Gesture o long, till he drawing nearer and nearer by degrees, at length casts his Net over him, and takes him.

Grimsby, is situate within half a Mile of the Humber, where it falls into the Sea, in a flat and marshy Ground. This Town has formerly injoyed a good Trade, before its Haven was choackt up; and then it had two Markets a Week. For the security of its Port, it had a Castle, which is likewise de∣cayed. And, instead of two Churches it had, now it contents it self with one, which for largeness gives place to few. Cathedrals.

Burton, or Burton Stather, is seated on the Ri∣ver Trent, near its fall into the Humber.

On the other side of the Trent is the Isle of Axholm, made so by the Trent and Dun, with two or three lesser Rivers. This Isle is in breadth from North to South 10 miles, but in length not half so much; and in that Cir∣cuit are seated several Towns. The lower Part

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of it is flat and moorish, yielding a sweet Shrub called by the Country people Gall. But the middle Part, which is a rising Ground, is fer∣tile, and (among other Things) does yield great store of Flax. Here is also Alabaster to be found.

Thongcaster, a well-compacted Town stands o the side of a Hill. Of note for its ancien Castle so called, said to be built by Hengist the Saxon, after he had beaten the Picts and Scots in Vortiger's Quarrel. Who granted him so much Ground as an Ox-hide cut into Thongs would compass, within which he ere∣cted the Castle.

Saltfleet is a Sea-Town, much frequented by the Gentry in the Summer Season for the eating of Fish; otherwise inconsiderable.

Alford, a goodly Town, is seated at the head of a Rivulet, few miles from the Sea∣side.

Waynfleet, South of Alford, is another good Town, not far from the Sea; but seated in a fenny Ground, on a Wash (or Dike) which falls into the Sea. Here is an excellent Fre School, founded by William of Waynfleet, Bishop of Winton, who also built Magdalen Colledge in Oxford.

Bullingbrook, or Bolinbrook, an ancient Town, is seated on a low Ground, at the Spring head of a River which falls into the Witham. Of note for a Castle built here by William of Romara, Earl of Lincoln. But much more famous, in succeeding Times, for being the Birth-place of King Henry IV, surnamed (ac∣cording to the fashion of those Times) of Bul∣lingbrook. And almost ever since his Time it has been one of the Honours (as we call it) of the Kings of England; but never made

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an honourary Title to any Family, till King ames conferred it on Sir Oliver St. Johns. Who, possibly might affect to be thence denominated, as fetching his Descent from the Lady Marga∣et Beauchamp, Grandmother to King Henry VII, the Heir of the Lancastrian Family. From him the Title fell to Oliver St. Johns, his Grand∣child, by Pawlet his second Son, Oliver Lord St. John the eldest Son being slain at Ege-hill ight. And from him to his Son, the Right Honourable Paulet St. John, the present Earl of ullingbrook.

Not far from Bullingbrook is Eresby, which gives the Title of Baron to the Earl of indsey.

Horn-castle and Tatershall are both seated on the River Bane, this last near its Influx into the Witham. But Horn-castle is the most conside∣rable.

Boston, in Holland Division, stands on both sides of the River Witham, within few Miles of its fall into the Sea. This is a considerable Town, of good Antiquity, and a Place of Trade, well inhabited and resorted unto. Over the River it has a very fair high wooden Bridge. Its Mar∣ket. Place is fair and spacious. And the Church of special Note for its fine-built Tower, ex∣alted to that height as to serve as a Land-mark to Mariners.

Kirkton is situate on a sandy Ground rising in that flat Country. A Town so called from its Church, which is a fair Structure, built (Ca∣thedral like) in the form of a Cross, with a broad. Steeple in the middle. Of some note besides for its excellent Pippins. But there is another Kirkton in Lindsey.

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Crowland ly's some Miles East of Market-Deep∣ing, and upon the same River, which is the We¦land. A Town seated so low, among Fen and miry Ground, that there is no coming to it but by the North and East side, and that by narrow Causeways, not admitting o Carts. Hence came the Proverb, that 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Carts that come to Crowland are shod wi•••• Silver. It consists of 3 Streets, severed each from other (not unlike Venice) by Water-Courses running between; and on the Banks, which are raised up, and preserved by Piles, are set Willow-Trees. Their Cattel are kept a good distance from the Town; and when they go to milk their Cows, they go in small Skerries or Boats. Here they take in the Pools, or watery Places, a world of Fish and Fowl, of which they make good pro∣fit.

In short, the Ground about this Town is so very rotten, that one may thrust a Pole in to it 30 foot. And in a Place called Hollan there, it is so wet, that as one stands upo it the Earth will shake under his Feet, an he will be ready to sink into it. Here are al many Quick-sands, which have a wonderful force both to draw to them, and to hol fast whatever they draw.

Spalding, a pretty Town, and a Place o good Trade, stands also on the Weland; bu nearer its Influx into the Ocean, some mile North of Crowland. That is, not far from the Washes, the neighbouring Sea, so calle for its frequent Inundations in these Parts.

Dunington, also situate in a Flat, and water∣ish like Spalding, is a considerable Place fo the great quantities of Hemp and Provision here sold.

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To conclude, this County (which now is in the Diocese of Lincoln) was part of the ncient Kingdom of Mercia in the Time of the Heptarchy, and its Inhabitants part of the Coritani in the Time of the Romans.

Out of it are chosen, besides the two Knights of the Shire, ten Members of Par∣iament. Viz. Two out of each of these fol∣lowing Towns, Lincoln, Stamford, Grantham, Boston, and Grimsby.

CHAP. XII.

Of Middlesex, Monmouthshire, Norfolk, and Northampton∣shire.

Middlesex.

MIDDLESEX, a small Inland County, is bounded on the East with Essex, from which 'tis parted by the River Lea; on the West, with Buck∣inghamshire, from which 'tis severed by the Coln and the Shire-Ditch; on the North, with Hartfordshire; and on the South, with the Thames, which parts it from Surrey and Kent. Called Middlesex from its Situation, as lying between the East-Angles and the West-Saxons.

It contains in Length, from East to West, a∣bout 24 miles; in Breadth, from North to to South, 18. The Whole divided into seven Hundreds, wherein 203 Parishes, and 6 Market-Towns.

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For Sweetness of Air, or Fruitfulness of Soil this County may compare with any Shire i England. From the Hills that are about it as Hampsted, Highgate, Harrow-Hill, &c. th Prospect of the whole is seen; in this not unlik to Zoar in Egypt.

London, the chief Place hereof, but withal the Metropolis, and the Glory of the King∣dom, is too great to be crowded here withi the narrow Compass of these short Descrip∣tions. Therefore I refer you to the Con∣clusion of this Part, and so proceed to

The Market-Towns, besides London and West∣minster,

  • Brentford, Tue.
  • Stanes, Frid.
  • Ʋxbridge, Thu.
  • Edgeware, Thu.

Brentford, in the Western Road, 7 or 8 mile from London, is divided into Old and New Brentford, both so called from Brent, a smal River that falls here into the Thames. O most renown in former times for the goo Success Edmund Ironside King of England ha here against the Danes Anno 1016, which com pelled them to raise the Siege of London. No of most note for being the Thorough-fare b twixt London and the Western Countries, th Passage up and down by Water for the ea of Travellers, and a well frequented Market Once dignify'd with the Title of an Earldo in the person of Patrick Ruthen, Earl of For in Scotland, Created Earl of Brentford by Kin Charles I. Anno 1644.

Stanes, upon the Thames, is a large, we inhabited, and frequented Town. It lies o the West Road of England, and has a Bridg over the River that leads into Surrey.

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Ʋxbridge is another good Town, that lies North of Stanes, on the River Coln, which parts (as I said before) this County from Buckinghamshire. And, as it is seated in the high Road from London to Oxford, so it is well accommodated with Inns, and Houses of In∣tertainment.

As for Edgeware, 'tis but a small Town.

But, besides these four Market-Towns, the flourishing City of London has such an In∣fluence over all its Neighbourhood, that it swarms all over with pretty Towns, not only in Middlesex, but even in Surrey.

In Middlesex, as Islington, Highgate, Hamp∣sted, Chelsey, Kensington, Fulham, Hamersmith, Thistleworth, Hounslow, &c. most of them graced with the Seats of divers Noblemen, Gentlemen, and Citizens.

Among which Kensington of late has the ho∣nour of injoying some part of the Year Their Majesties Presence, as Hamersmith the Queen Dowager's.

Hounslow, famous for its adjoyning Heath, and the notable Incampments made there in the late Reign, in order to bring in Popery. But, as Providence was pleased to order it, the Thames swallowed the Tiber, and the cold Northern Heresy proved too hard for the hot∣headed Jesuit.

Besides Kensington-House, here are in this County no less than five Royal Houses; viz. Whitehall, and S. James in Westminster, Hampton-Court, Enfield, and Hanworth.

Lastly, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of the East-Saxons, and its Inhabitants part of the Trinobantes, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of London.

Page 146

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, six Members of Parliament; viz. 4 out of London, and 2 out of West∣minster.

As for honourary Titles, I know not by what popular Errour the Citizens of London reckoned the Lord Mayor elect for Earl of Middlesex. But whatever Ground it had, now it has none to stand on, since that Title was bestowed, first on Lionel Lord Cranfield, Lord Treasurer of England, created Earl of Mid∣dlesex by King James I. Anno 1622. Which continued in his Son James, and died with Lionel, Brother of James. But in the Year 1675. it was revived by King Charles II. in the person of the Right Honourable Charles Sackvil. Lord Buckhurst, who was created Earl of Middlesex during the Life of his Father Richard Earl of Dorset. Upon whose Death, two years after, he succeeded in the Earldom of Dorset.

Neither is it to be omitted, that betwixt Brentford and Colebrook is a small Town reckoned as 3 Mannors, viz. Arlington, Shepston, and Dawling. From the first of these Mannors Henry Bennet, the late Earl of Arlington, took his Title. Who was created first Baron of Arlington, by King Charles the Second, Anno 1664, afterwards Viscount Thetford, and Earl of Arlington (his Birth-place) Anno 1672; and sworn Lord Chamberlain of his Majesty's Houshold, in the Year 1674.

Monmouth∣shire.

MONMOƲTHSHIRE, formerly a Welch County, and now reckoned among the English, is bounded on the East by the River Wye, which parts it from Glocestershire; on the West, by two Welch Counties, Brecknock∣shire

Page 147

and Glamorganshire; Northward, by He∣refordshire; and Southward, by the Mouth of the River Severn.

It contains in Length, from North to South, about 25 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 20. The Whole divided into six Hundreds, wherein 127 Parishes, and 7 Market. Towns.

It is blest, not only with a healthfull and temperate Air, but also with a rich Soil. And, though the Country be both hilly and woody, yet all Parts thereof are fruitfull, and scarce any barren. The Hills are grazed upon by great and small Cattel, and the Val∣leys laden with Corn and Grass.

Its fertility is much furthered by its being plentifully watered with so many Rivers, the principal whereof are the Ʋske and the Wye, the Rumney and the Monnow, all which fall into the Severn. Among which the first two are full of Salmon and Trouts.

Monmouth, the County-Town, bears from London West by North, and is distant there∣from 99 miles, thus. Viz. from London to Glocester, 81 miles, as in Glocestershire; and from Glocester to Monmouth, 18.

The Situation of it between two Rivers, the onnow and the Wye, is both very pleasant nd commodious. The Town it self large and air, well inhabited and frequented; having he Conveniency of two Bridges, one over the ye, and the other over the Monnow. Once rtified with a Wall and Ditch, and in the ldst of the Town with a stately Castle, the uins whereof are still to be feen. In this Castle was born the renowned King Henry V, he Conquerour of France, from hence called enry of Monmouth. Of some note besides, r being the Birth-place of Geofry, surnamed

Page 148

of Monmouth, who wrote the History of Great Britain. But, of late times especially, for be∣ing dignify'd with the Title of a Dukedom, in the person of James, the late Duke of Mon∣mouth; and, since the late Revolution, with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Honourable Charles Mordant, Earl of Monmouth, &c. Its Market, kept on Satur∣days, is considerable for Corn, and other Pro∣visions.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Chepstow, Sat.
  • Newport, Sat.
  • Pon Pool, Sat.
  • Ʋske, Mund. and Frid.
  • Abergavenny, Tue.
  • Caer-Leon, Thu.

Chepstow stands upon the side of a Hill, on the Banks of the Wye, near its fall into the Severn. A Town in former times famous, and of great resort; supposed to be raised out of the Ruins of Venta Silurum, 4 miles distant, the ancient and chief City of the Silures, which flourished in the Days of Antonine the Em∣perour. This Town, says Cambden, was fortified about with a Wall of a large Circuit, and had a very spacious Castle, once fronted by a Prio∣ry, the better part of which being pulled down, the rest was converted to a Parish Church. At this present time, the Town is large and well built, well inhabited, and frequented; having a fair and high Bridge over the Wye. And so it needs, for here the River rises to a great height.

In the Year 1606. the Moor (or Marsh) near Chepstow was very much indamaged by the Severn. For that Year, at the Change of the Moon in February, this River at a Spring∣tide

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was driven back for 3 days together with a South Wind. Which made it swell so high, that it came rushing in a main upon this Tract, and carried all before it.

Newport, a goodly Town, is seated on the Uske, over which it has a fair Bridge; the Uske discharging it self not far off into the Se∣vern, where it has a good Haven, bearing the Name of the Town.

Some miles East from this Haven is the Gold-Cliff, so called from the golden Colour of the Stones that lie hereabouts; which makes some suspect a Mine to be there. And opposite to that Cliff, about the midst of the Severn, lieth a small Isle, called Denny-Island.

Pont-Pool is but a small Town, seated be∣twixt the Hills. Of chief note for its Iron-Mills.

Ʋske, a good large Town, is so called from the River Uske on which it is situate, with a Bridge over it. 'Tis beautified with well built Stone-houses, and formerly was fortified with a large and strong Castle, now ruinated. According to Antonine, here stood the little City Burrium. But, not far from it Northward is Ragland Castle, a noble Seat belonging to the Duke of Beaufort.

Abergavenny, by Antonine called Gobanium, stands also upon the Uske, where a small River (Keveny by name) empty's it self into it. This is a Place of some strength, being forti∣fied with Walls, and a Castle of great note in former times. The Town is large, the Houses well built, and injoy's a good Trade, for Flan∣nels especially.

Caer-Leon, by the Romans called Isca Silurum, stands also upon the Uske, a little above New∣port, and has a large wooden Bridge over the

Page 150

River. This Town was once, a famous and flourishing City in the time of the Romans, where lay the second Roman Legion called Augusta, to keep the Silures in aw. The Ru∣ins of its stately Buildings, Palaces, Temples, Theaters, together with the Water-pipes, Vaults, Hot-Houses, Altars, and Roman Coyns, often digged up here, do sufficiently evidence its former Antiquity and Greatness. Here King Arthur kept his Court; and in this City was a famous School or Colledge, to learn Astronomy, and other Arts. As for its pre∣sent State, the Town is pretty large, and the Houses for the generality built of Stone. It has yet the Ruins of a Castle standing.

To conclude, this County (formerly the Habitation of the Silures) is in the Welch Diocese of Llandaff.

Besides the two Knights of the Shire, there's but one Member elected to serve in parliament, and that's out of Monmouth.

Norfolk.

NORFOLK, a Maritime County of a large extent, is bounded Eastward and North∣ward with the German Ocean; Westward, with the River Ouse, which severs it from the County's of Lincoln and Cambridge; South∣ward, with the little Ouse and the Waveney, which part it from Suffolk. Thus Norfolk, what with the Sea, and what with the Ri∣vers, is so incompassed with Waters, that it wants very little of being an Islland of it felf.

It contains in Length, from East to West, 50 miles; in Breadth, from North to South, a∣bout 35. The Whole divided into 31 Hundreds, wherein 660 Parishes, and 31 Market-Towns. Which is an Argument of its Populousness.

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Here the Air is sharp and piercing, espe∣cially near the Sea, and in the Champain Part; which occasions a later Spring and Harvest.

The Soil in many Places, but chiefly along the Sea-Coast, which is a Champain Coun∣try, affords plenty of Corn. The Heaths feed a World of Sheep, and breed abundance of Conies. And the Woodland Part serves for Grazing of Cattel, yet not without Corn∣ground.

The Sea, and the Rivers besides that glide through this Country, strive as it were to fur∣nish it with their plenty of Fsh. And, among these (besides those above-named, viz. the two Ouses, and the Waveney,) there are two of chief note, called the Yare, and the Thryn.

The Yare, particularly noted for its great plenty of a certain Fish called Ruff, whose body is all Prickled over; the tail and fins spotted with black Specks. This Fish eats tender and short as a Perch, and is counted a wholsom Fish. It delights in sandy Places, and is rarely seen in any other River. One Thing is observable of it, that, when the Fish is angry, the fins stand up stiff; and, after its Anger is over, they fall flat a∣gain.

In short, the Soil of this Country, ac∣cording to the Variety of Places, is of dif∣ferent nature. In some Parts it is fat, rank, and full of moisture; in others, very light and sandy. Yet so, that one contributing to the other, and the Sea giving help to both, it is a very plentiful Country for Corn, Sheep, and Fish.

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Norwich, the chief Place hereof, and a Bishops See, bears from London North-East and by North, and is distant therefrom 90 miles, thus. From London to Ware, 20; to Barkway, 11 more; thence to Witleford-Bridge, 10; and to New-Market, 12 more; from New∣market to Theford, 16; to Attleborough, 10 more; thence to Windham, 5; and to Norwich, 6 more,

A City seated on the River Yare, which runs thence to Yarmouth, and over which it has several Bridges.

It was formerly the Seat of the East-An∣gles, and then a Place of great splendour. But it has since undergone so many Calamities, by Sword and Famine, by Fire and Pestilence, that it is much it should prove to this day, a fair, large, populous, and well frequented City. Insomuch that it ly's out a Mile and a half in length, and half as much in breadth, containing in that Circuit about 20 Parishes; well walled about, with several Turrets, and 12 Gates for entrance, but not without much waste Ground within it.

Its chief Buildings are the Cathedral, beauti∣fied with a lofty Spire; then the Bishops and the Duke of Norfolk's Pallaces, the Market-House, the Cross, and the House of Correction made of free Stone, and so well cemented that no Mortar is seen. Here is also an Hospital, where 100 poor Men and Women are main∣tained; and the Ruins of an ancient Castle, of the Saxons building. In short, here is so pleasant an Intermixture of the Houses with Trees, that it may not improperly be called an Orchard in a City, or a City in an Orchard; the populousness of a City, and the pleasure of the Country meeting here together. Of

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some Note besides, for giving the Title of Earl to his Grace the Duke of Norfolk, Earl of Arundel, Surrey, and Norwich.

Finally, this City do's injoy a great Trade, but chiefly for its Stuffs, Stockings, and other Manufactures here made; for the learning of which it is beholding to the Dutch that came to inhabit here. It has three Markets a Week, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays; the first and last very great, for all sorts of Provisions.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Lyn, Sat. & Mund.
  • Yarmouth, Sat.
  • Thetford, Sat.
  • Hingham, Sat.
  • New-Buckenham Sat.
  • Swafham, Sat.
  • Downham, Sat.
  • Holt, Sat.
  • Burnham, Sat.
  • Cromere, Sat.
  • Repcham, Sat.
  • Alesham, Sat.
  • Worsted, Sat.
  • Sechy, Mund.
  • East-Herling, Tue,
  • Fulcham, Tue,
  • Caston, Tue,
  • Harlston, Wedn.
  • Watton, Wedn.
  • North-Walsham, Thu,
  • Attlebury, Thu,
  • Fakenham, Thu,
  • Windham, Frid,
  • East-Derham, Frid,
  • Diss, Frid,
  • Snetham, Frid,
  • Walsingham, Frid,

Besides Southwold, and Winfield, two new Markets; and Hickling, whose Market-Days I am ignorant of.

yn, formerly called Bishops Lyn as apper∣taining to the Bishops of Norwich, till King Henry VIII, gave it the Name of yn Regis or King's Lyn, is seated in the Western Part of the Country, upon the Banks of the Ouse, near its fall into that Part of the Sea which

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is called the Washes. Watered besides by two little Rivers, that fall there into the Ouse, which are passed over by about 15 Bridges. A Town of good antiquity, large, and well built, containing 3 Parish-Churches; and for its Defence, incompassed with a Wall, and a good Ditch. Well Inhabited by Mer∣chants and Tradesmen, who drive a conside∣rable Trade, and the more by reason of its commodious Haven. Yet it is much eclipsed in its Trade, to what it was formerly, be∣cause of the stoppage of a Sluce upon the Ouse, which do's so obstruct the Current of salt Water, that the River is scarce navigable to Cambridge.

Nigh unto this Town, on the other side of the Ouse, is a little Marsh Country, called Marsh-Land, very subject to the Inundations of the Sea, and therefore very moist and aguish. But, in recompence, its Soil is exceeding fat, and feed abundance of Cattel. In this Marsh are seated several Towns, but so destitute of fresh Water for houshold Use, that many of 'em are fain to get a supply thereof at 4 miles distance.

About 3 miles from Lyn, towards the Sea, stands a decayed Town called Castle-Rising. Its Decay occasioned by its Haven's being many years since choakt up with Sands, where∣by 'tis become useless. Which has done a Kindness to Lyn.

Yarmouth, the best Harbour in all this County, and the Key of this Coast, is seated at the Mouth of the River Yare, from whence it is called Yarmouth. A Town of good Strength as well by Nature as Art, well built, and pretty large; and yet it has but one Church, which is beautify'd with a lofty Spire. The

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same is well inhabited, and much resorted unto by Seamen; affording a ready Passage to Holland, and being a frequent Shelter to the New-castle Fleets, when distressed by Wea∣ther. Of special note besides, for Herring∣fishing, in the Seas adjacent, in the Month of September. Which draws a great Concourse of People hither, and makes the Town much richer all the Year after. Lastly, 'tis dig∣nified with the Title of Earl, in the person of the Right Honourable William Paston, the present Earl of Yarmouth.

Thetford is an Inland Town, situate on the Confluence of the Thet and the little Ouse, over wich it has a Bridge leading to Suffolk. A Place of great Antiquity, built out of the Ruins of the ancient City Sitomagus, which was destroyed by the merciless Danes. The Bi∣shop's See of the East Angles was from North-Elmham removed hither, and from hence to Norwich. It is not very well Inhabited, to what it has been. However this is the Town, where the Lent-Assizes for the Coun∣ty are usually kept.

Herling, and New Buckenham, ly not far from Thetford, to the Eastward; Diss, and Harleston, on the Waveney; Watton, Windham, Hingham, Swafham, and East-Derham, do not ly far asunder, about the middle of the Coun∣ty. Further to the Northward you will find Repeham, Caston, Fakenham, Walsingham, Holt, Ale∣ham, Worsted, North Walsham, and Hickling this last in a Marsh-Ground, not far from the Sea.

Downham is upon the Ouse, over which it has a Bridge, leading into Cambridgeshire. Snetham, North of Lyn, is seated on a bivuler, not far from the Sea. Burnham-Market, and Cromere, are two Sea-Towns in the North

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Parts of the County. Between which is Clay, another Sea-Town, on three sides incompassed with Waters, and once a Market Town, but now discontinued. And near it Wayborn-hope, a noted Place amongst Seamen; as is Win∣terton Ness, or Point, in the East, which is very coldly seated. And yet it is observed, that the Ground about Winterton is one of the richest and fattest in England.

Among the aforesaid Towns, Walsingham was formerly renowned, as for its Colledge of Ca∣nons, so for the continual Concourse of Pil∣grims to this Place. Who came hither to pay their Superstitious Devotion to the Blessed Vir∣gin, at a Chappel near the two Wells called to this day the Virgin Mary's Wells. It was also a Place of note, for its good Saffron.

Near Burnham-Market, within 2 Miles from it to the Westward, is a small Country-Town, called Brancaster, the Ruins of an ancient Town known by the Name of Branodunum. Seated near the Sea-shore, and a Place of good account in the time of the Romans, who kept here a Garrison.

Not far from Hickling, in the North-East Parts, is the ancient decay'd Abbey of St. Bennet's in the Holme, built by the Danish King Ca∣nute. An Abbey so fortified afterwards by its Monks with Walls and Bulwarks, that it seemed rather a Castle than a Cloyster; and yet was betrayed by a Monk to William the Conqueror. The Bishop of Norwich re∣tains to this Day the Title of Lord Abbot of St. Bennets. And it is observable, that hereabouts both Cockles and Perwinkles are digged out of the Ground.

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Lastly, this County (which is the largest in England next to Yorkshire, but much more populous) was Part of the Kingdom of the East-Angles, in the time of the Heptarchy; and its Inhabitants, part of the Iceni, as the Romans called them.

It is observed of the People in this Coun∣ty, that they are notably industrious for Plough and Manufactures, insomuch that one shall hardly see a Beggar throughout all the Coun∣try. And yet (which one would wonder at) they are notable Wranglers, and generally so well versed in the Quirks of the Law, that they create more work for the Assizes than almost all the Circuit else. Accordingly Nor∣folk is the County, which commonly yields the best Breed of Lawyers, and has furnished the Courts of Justice with many an emiment Man in the Laws of England. But a great Antiquary has made another material Obser∣vation, That in this County are a hundred Families of ancient Gentry, that never were attainted of high Treason. Which if it be true, the Gentry here have had better fortune than the Dukes, Dutchesses, and Earls of Nor∣folk.

His Grace, Henry Howard, the present Duke of Norfolk, derives his Title from his noble Ancestor John-Lord Howard, created Duke of Norfolk by King Edward IV. Anno 1483, and descended from the Lady Margaret, Dutchess of Norfolk, Daughter of Tho. de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk, first Son of King Ed∣ward I.

Out of this County are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, ten Members of Parliament. Viz. Two out of each of these following Places, Norwich, Kings I yn, Yar∣mouth, Thetford, and Castle-rising.

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Northamp∣tonshire.

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, an In∣land County, is bounded on the East with the Counties of Cambridge, Huntington, Bed∣ford, and Buckingham; on the West, with Rut∣land, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire; North∣ward, with the Counties of Lincoln, Rutland, and Leicester; Southward, with Buckingham∣shire, and Oxfordshire.

This County, being long, but narrow, runs in Length, from North to South, ahout 50 miles; and in Breadth, from East to West, but half. The Whole divided into 20 Hundreds, wherein 326 Parishes, and 13 Market-Towns.

Here the Air is temperate and health∣full; the Soil as rich, either for Corn or Grass, as in any Place in England. And the Inha∣bitants find such a Profit here by Grazing and Tillage, that they improve the Ground every where. Insomuch that it is said, there is less waste Ground in this County than in any other.

As for Rivers, and other fresh Streams, 'tis as well watered as most Counties are. Its principal Rivers are the Nen and the Weland, both having their Rise here; besides the Ouse, which rises in the South Parts, near Bucking, hamshire.

A further Proof of the excellency of this County might be fetched from its Populousness. For it is so garnished with Towns, that in many Places 20 or 30 Steeples present themselves at one view. And considering its Extent, 'tis said to be honoured with the Seats of as many (if not more) of the Nobility and Gentry, as any County in the Kingdom.

Northampton, the chief Place hereof, ly's North-West from London, and (by common Computation) is distant from it 54 miles, thus, From London to Barnet, 10; thence to St. Al∣lans,

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10; and to Dunstable, 10 more; from Dunstable to Stony Stratford, 20; and to Nor∣thampton, 10 more.

A Town pleasantly seated on the Banks of the River Nen, where it meets with two Ri∣vulets, one from the North, the other from the South. And, though it has suffered much by the sore hand of the Dane, and other Calamities (and of late particularly by the dreadfull Fire which buried it all in Ashes in September 1675) yet it has raised it self again more glorious than before. So that for Circuit and Beauty it may at this time be ranked with many Ci∣ties. Fortified heretofore with good Walls, and a strong Castle; and seated in so good an Air, that once the Students of Cambridge had a mind to remove their University hither. Here the Inhabitants drive a considerable Trade, especially of Leather; and its Market, which is on Saturdays, is well served with Provisions. This Town is the Place where the County-Goal, and the Assizes are kept. Of special note, for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable George Compton, the present Earl of Northampton. Devolved to him from his noble Ancestor William, Lord Compton, and Lord President of Wales, Crea∣ted Earl of Northampton by King James I. An∣no 1618.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Peterborough, Sat.
  • Oundle, Sat.
  • Higham-Ferrers, Sat.
  • Rothwell, Mund.
  • Thrapston, Tue.
  • Towcester, Tue.
  • King's Cliff, Tue.
  • Wellingborow, Wed.
  • Brakley, Wed.
  • Daventry. Wed.
  • Kettering, Frid.
  • ...Bodkingham,

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Among which Peterborough is seated in a Nook (or Angle) of the County, bordering upon Cambridgeshire, and Huntingtonshire, where formerly had been a Gulf or Whirl∣pool of an exceeding depth. 'Tis seated on the River Nen, over which it has a Bridge leading into Huntingtonshire. A Town of no great account, but for being a Bishops See, since the Reign of Henry VIII. For, as it is no plausible Place either for health or pleasure, so it stands out of the way for Trade. Yet it shews two handsom Streets, a large Mar∣ket-Place, and a fair Parish Church, besides the Abbey. Which last, from a Monastery founded by Wolpher the Mercian King, is now become a Cathedral. And, from that Monastery dedicated by him to St. Peter. This Town, formerly known by the Name of Medanshede, came to be called Peterburgh, or Peterborough. Dignifyd with the Title of an Earldom in the person of Henry Mordant, the present Earl of Peterborough; devolved to him from his Father John, Lord Mordant, created Earl of Peterborough by King Charles I. Anno 1627.

Oundle is pleasantly seated on the Banks of the Nen, over which it has two Bridges. A well built and uniform Town, beautified with a fair Church, a free School, and an Alms∣house.

Nigh unto Oundle Northwards, and upon the same River, stands Fotheringhay-Castle, in∣vironed on all sides with pleasant Meadows. Noted for that here Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded.

Thrapston, Higham-Ferrers, and Wellingborow, ly all three upon the Nen; the first two on the Eastern, the last on the Western Banks

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and each of them with a Bridge over the River. Higham-Ferrers has a Free-School for the Education of Youth, and an Alms house for the Relief of poor people; and was anciently strengthned with a Castle, whose Ruins are yet to be seen. Wellingborow, pleasantly seated upon the Ascent of a Hill, is a large, and well inhabited Town, injoying a good Trade, beau∣tified with a fair Church, and having the Con∣vieniency besides of a Free School.

Not far from Rothwell, or Rowel, is Naseby, which is said to stand on the highest Ground in England, near which the Avon and the Nen (two considerable Rivers) have their Spring∣heads. A noted Town for the Battel fought here June 14th 1645; where the Kings For∣ces commanded by Prince Rupert were totally routed by General Fairfax.

Towcester, situate in a Valley, and on the Banks of a small River that empty's it self in the Ouse, is a Place of good Antiquity. Cambden takes it for the ancient Tripontium, which took its Name from 3 Bridges; the Roman Port-way (which in many places be∣tween it and Stony-Stratford shews it self) be∣ing cut through by three Streams or Chan∣nels, which the Rivulet there divides it self into. About the Year 917. it was so strong∣ly fortified, as to resist the furious Assaults of the Danes. At present 'tis but a small Town, beautified however with a fine Church.

Near this Place Eastward is Grafton, a Road-Town in this part of Northamptonshire, with a fine Park adjoyning to it, and a Mannor∣house of great Antiquity, most part whereof was burnt and pulled down in the long In∣testine War, Anno 1643. Memorable for the

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Marriage here consummated betwixt Edward IV. and the Lady Grey, the first King o England since the Conquest that married his Subject. This was the ancient Seat of the Family de Wideville, Earls of Rivers. And Richard, the last of the male Line, dying An∣no 1490. did by his Will bequeath it (a∣mongst other Lands) to Thomas Grey, Mar∣quess of Dorset. In which Name it continued till Henry VIII, with whom it was exchanged for other Lands in Leicestershire, and so has ever since continued in the Crown. Of late become of more remark, for giving the Ti∣tle of Duke to his Grace Henry Fitz-Roy, cre∣ated Baron of Sudbury, Viscount Ipswich, and Earl of Euston Anno 1672, and Duke of Grafton five years after.

Brackley, a Town of Note when it was in a manner the Staple Town in the County for Wool, is seated near the Spring of the Ouse, upon the edge of the County towards Buckinghamshire. It contains two Parish-Churches, and had formerly a Colledge, now made use of for a Free-School.

Daventry and Kettering are seated, each of 'em upon a Rivulet, that falls into the Nen. The first, a great Road-Town from London to the North-West Counties, and from thence hither. The last, North-East from that, is delightfully seated on an Ascent; and has a Sessions-House for the Justices of Peace of the County, who sometimes assem∣ble here.

Rockingham, a small Town, is seated on the Weland. A Town of note in former Time for its Castle, long since demolished.

Lastly, this County, together with Rutland, make up the Diocese of Peterborough. In

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the Time of the Saxons, it made part of the Kingdom of Mercia; and its Inhabitants, in the Romans Time, part of the Cori∣tani.

Out of it are chosen, besides the two Knights of the Shire, seven Members of Parliament. Viz. 2 out of Northampton, 2 out of Peterbo∣rough, 2 out of Brackley, and 1 out of Higham-Ferrers.

CHAP. XIII.

Of Northumberland, Notting∣hamshire, Oxfordshire, and Rutland.

Northum∣berland,

NORTHƲMBERLAND, a Mari∣time County, and the furthest North in England, is bounded on the East by the German Ocean; on the West, by Cumber∣land, and the Cheviot Hills which part it from Scotland; Northward, by the River Twede, which divides it also from Scotland; and Southward, by the Bishoprick of Durham, from which severed in part by the River Tine.

Its Form is triangular, contains in Length from North to South about 40 long Miles, and in Breadth from East to West (at the broadest) 30. The Whole divided into six Wards, wherein 460 Parishes, and but 6 Mar∣ket-Towns.

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The Air of this County is sharp and piercing in Winter, and sometimes troubled with deep Snows and pinching Frosts, sutable to its Cli∣mate. But yet 'tis nothing near so sharp as the People. And by my late Experi∣ence, here wet Weather is not so sensible and searching, as it is in Middlesex. 'Tis possible the warm Breaths that continually come out of its numberless Colepits helps, with the Vapours of the Sea, to take off the rawness of a cold dampish Air.

For the Soil, as this County is nearly re∣lated to Scotland, so it is one of the worst Counties in England; being for the most part rough and hilly, and hard to be manured. Yet in some Parts, chiefly towards the Sea, it is fertile enough. But the greatest Ri∣ches of this Country lies in the Bowels of the Earth, full of Coal-mines. Which supply with Coals, not only this Country (where that Fewel is always bought at very easy rates) but a good Part of England be∣sides; and London particularly, for whose Use many hundred Sail of Ships have yearly from hence their Loading.

The Coal-Pits, made use of to get up this Treasure, are all square, commonly 7 or 8 foot in diameter, and timbered from top to bottom; some 30, some 40, more or less, but few above 50 fadoms deep. A great Depth for Workmen, to go and rake a Livelyhood. And yet here is a Legion of such Men, bred and born to it, that spend most of their Life in this Land of Darkness; in continual Danger (besides that of the Rope) of being crushed below by a Thrust, sometimes in Danger of Water, and in some places of Fire.

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The Way to go down these Pits, and to come up, is by the help of a Rope; one end whereof being made into a Loop, the Work∣man gets a Leg and Knee into it, as far as the very Hip. Thus hugging the Rope with one Arm, his Life wrapt up with it, down he goes, while the Rope turns about an En∣gine made for that purpose. If the Rope fails, as sometimes it does through Careles∣ness, there's an end of the Man and of the Conveyance.

By a Thrust is meant the fall of some Earth, or great Stones, whereby 'tis the ill fate of some to be crushed; as it is of others to be drowned by a sudden Irruption of Waters, from an old Waste, or otherwise.

But some Pits at Sunderland, in the Bishop∣rick of Durham, are subject besides to Fire-Damps. So they call an Inflammation of the Air in those subterraneous Parts, which be∣ing more than ordinary affected with sulphu∣rous matter, are sometimes apt to catch fire, and then all go's to wrack. It breaks out like a Thunder-bolt, carries all away with it higher than the Pits Mouth, and that with a dismal noise, as it were with a crack of Thun∣der. In this Case one might compare the inflamed Sulphur to Gun-powder, the Coal∣pit to a great Gun, and what it brings up with it to Bullets, it comes up with such a force. But, when this happens, the Work∣men foresee it, by their Candles burning blue and blazing more than ordinary. Where∣upon they lay themselves flat upon the Ground, and let the Meteor work it self a∣bove it.

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But this is too deep a piece of Geography, for me to insist upon. I leave it therefore to those Men of deep reaches who live upon the Spot; in order first to take a View of New∣castle, the chief Place of this County.

Newcastel, for distinctions sake called New∣castel upon Tine, to difference it from another Town of that Name in Staffordshire, bears from London North-by-West, and is reckoned to be distant from it 212 miles. Viz. 200 from London to Durham, for the particulars whereof I refer you to my Description of Dur∣ham; and 12 more from Durham to New∣castle.

This Town is seated on the North-Bank of the River Tine, about 7 miles from its fall into the Sea. Over the River it has a fair Stone-Bridge leading to Gateshead in the Bi∣shoprick of Durham, with an Iron-Gate upon it, which parts the two Counties. It stands high and low, part upon a steep Hill, and part in the bottom on't near the River. The Streets upon the Ascent are so very steep, that they stand like so many Ladders. And yet both Men and Horses are so used to 'em, that they make little of it, either with or without a Load. The Houses are most of Stone, some Timber, and a few Brick-houses. In short, it is a Place of that extent as to contain four large Parishes, with as many Churches. The Whole incompassed with a Wall, and fortified with a Castle, but neg∣lected, and going to ruin. Built by Robert, Son to William the Conquerour; from whence this Town, formerly called Monk-Chester, took the Name of Newcastle,

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Among the other publick Buildings of this Place, the Key next to the River, the Town-House ard by it, the Custom-house upon Sandy-Hill, and S. Nicholas Church in the midst of the Town, are the most Remarkable. Ships of good Burden come up to the very Key as ar as the Bridge; though the Newcastle-leet seldom comes higher than Sheales, near he River's Mouth. Under the Town-house (which 〈◊〉〈◊〉 no mean Structure) is the Exchange, or eeting Place for Merchants. Before this ouse, in the Market-Place, stood lately a ew brazen Statue, the Image of the late ing James on horseback. Which, soon after is Abdication, was suddenly pulled down by e Forces then quartered in Town; to the reat grief of many devout Jacobites in those arts, who reverently paid to the Image the onour they retained for the Original. S. Ni∣olas Church stands very lofty on the top of Hill, and looks more like a Cathedral than Parish Church, with a fair Steeple of curious rchitecture.

But Newcastle do's not glory so much in all is, as it do's in the great Trade it drives oth by Sea and Land for all Commodities; somuch that one may well call it the Bristol 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the North, it being the wealthiest, as it is 〈◊〉〈◊〉 most trading Place in the whole Northern ract.

'Tis true nothing has made it thrive so uch as the Coal-Trade, being surrounded s it is) with Coal-Mines, and blessed with e Conveniency of a navigable River for e Transportation of so necessary and usefull Commodity. For the Carrying on of this

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Trade they have such Priviledges, as might seem to some people exorbitant. No Owner of Coals can load his Ship with his own Com∣modity, but it must be done by a Member of a Company they have for that purpose, called the Company of Fitters; and every Fitter has six pence allowed him for every Newcastle Chaldron that go's out, which makes up near upon two of London Measure. The Town moreover takes 3 pence a Chaldron, as a Duty; besides 12 pence a Chaldron to the King, paid at the Custom-house.

To conclude, Newcastle is a County of it self, that is, has the Priviledge of governing it self independently from the rest of the Coun∣ty.

Of some note besides for giving the Title of Duke to his Grace Henry Cavendish, the present Duke of Newcastle. Whose Father, William Cavendish, was created first Earl, af∣terwards Marquess of Newcastle, by King Charles the first; and in the Year 1664. Duke of Newcastle, Earl of Ogle, &c. by Charles II.

It has two Markets a Week, viz. on Tues∣days and Saturdays, both very considerable for all sorts of Provisions; but particularly abounding with Cods and Salmon, in their proper Season.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Barwick, Sat.
  • Alnewick, Sat.
  • Hexam, Tue.
  • Morpeth, Wedn. and
  • Weller, Thu.

Barwick is seated at the mouth of the River Twede, over which it has a fair Bridge, sup∣ported

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by no less than 14 or 15 Arches. But as it stands on the North side of the River, by the Bounds of Northumberland, it ought rather to be counted in Scotland than En∣gland. And, because it has been in the hands of the English from the Reign of Edward IV, therefore in all Acts of Parliament, and Royal Proclamations, wherein this Town is con∣cerned, Barwick upon Twede is always named by it self, as a distinct Part of this Realm, and of Northumberland by consequence. How∣ever, as it is so near a Neighbour to this County, I am unwilling to deviate from the Method of all Geographers, whose way is to bring it under this Head, as if it were a part of Northumberland.

In short, Barwick, by its Situation, is a Place of good Strength, being almost surrounded with Water, what with the Sea, and what with the River. But it is fortified besides with good Walls and a Castle, besides other Forti∣fications. The Occasion of it was its being a Frontire-Town, sometimes possessed by the Scots, and sometimes by the English, before these two Nations came to be united under one Head. So that, upon the least Rupture, this Town was sure to undergo the first brunts of the War. It is large and populous, and the Houses well built; injoying a good Trade, especially for Corn and Salmon. Here one may have a good Salmon for 12 pence.

Lastly, Barwick is, like Newcastel, a Coun∣ty of it self. Dignified also with the Title of a Dukedom, and that by the late King James, in the person of James Fitz-James, the present Duke of Barwick, his natural Son, inked with him in his Misfortunes.

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Alnwick, so called from the River Alne upon which it is seated, about 8 miles from the Sea, is an indifferent good Town. Once strengthened with a great Castle, which is now something ruinous. However a noted Place, for the Battel fought here between the En∣glish and the Scots, in the Reign of Henry II; where William, King of Scots, was taken Prisoner.

Hexam is situate West of Newcastel, on the South-side of the River Tine. Once a Bishop∣rick, in the Infancy of the Saxon Church; the Bishop whereof called Episcopus Hagulstadiensis, according to Beda. S. Eata, the fifth Bishop of Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, was the first Bishop of this Place. Succeeded by nine o∣thers, till by the fury and rapine of the Danes it discontinued, the Jurisdiction of it being added to the See of York. But in the Reign of Henry VIII. it was taken from that Arch∣bishoprick, and by Authority of Parliament united to the County of Northumberland, whereby it became annexed to the Bishoprick of Durham. Here was a most stately Church, said to surpass most Minsters in England, before a great part thereof was pulled down by the Scots.

Morpeth, a goodly Town, is situate on the River Wensbeck, and fortified with a Castle Its Market is esteemed the best in the County for Provisions and living Cattel, which from hence are dispersed to divers Parts of the Kingdom. The Town of some note besides, for giving the Title of Viscount to the Ea of Carlisle.

Some miles South-west from it, near a Town called Belsey, on the River Pont, stands Ogle Castle, formerly belonging to the Barons Ogle

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and now to the Duke of Newcastle, from hence stiled Earl of Ogle.

As for Weller, 'tis but a small Town, seated on the side of a Hill, near the Banks of the River Till, which runs Northward into the Twede. But its Market is great for Corn, and other Provisions.

Of the Islands along the Sea-Coast of Northumberland.

Along the Coast of this Country you will find 3 principal Islands, as you go from South to North; viz. Cocket, Farn, and Holy I∣sland.

Cocket is but a small Island, lying not far from Wetherington Castle.

Farne Island, something bigger, lies North from Cocket, 2 miles from Bamburg Castle. North-East of which lie six smaller Islands, hardly worth the naming.

Holy Island, the biggest of the three, and yet of no great extent, is not far from Bar∣wick. This Island, being in shape not un∣like a Wedge, runs out with a Neck of Land towards Northumberland. And this is it which formerly was known by the Name of Lindis∣farne, in the dawning of Christianity among the Northumbers made a Bishops See by S. Aidan, one of the first Apostles of these Parts. Selected for that Dignity by that holy Man, for the Solitude and Privacy of it, which made it thought more fit and proper for Devotion. Till at last, by the religious Lives of so ma∣ny pious Bishops, Monks, and others of the Clergy as did inhabit here, it got the Name of Holy Island. And here the See continued 353 years, that, is from the Year 637 to 990,

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under 22 Bishops, hence called Bishops of Lindisfarne. From whence the See was remov∣ed to Durham, the Insolencies of the Danes (who then terribly raged on these Coasts) com∣pelling these religious Men to forsake their Solitude.

The Air of this Island is so unhealth∣full, and the Soil ungratefull, that it is but thinly peopled. Fish and Fowl is the best Accommodation of it. So that here is but one Town with a Church and Castle; un∣der which is a good Haven, defended by a Block-house.

In short, this County (formerly a Part of the Kingdom of Northumberland, and its Inha∣bitants part of the Ottadini, as the Romans caded them) is now in the Diocese of Dur∣ham.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, six Members of Parliament. Viz. 2 by Newcastle, 2 by Morpeth, and 2 more by Barwick.

Lastly, this County is noted for the Title of Duke and Earl it has given to several no∣ble Personages, but with frequent Interrup∣tions. As for the Title of Duke, I find but one that has injoy'd it, till of late, viz. John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and Lord Admiral Duke of Northumberland, beheaded by Quee Mary. Put that of Earl has gone through several Changes, and different Families. Th Piercies are those who have injoy'd it the long est of any, and yet not without some Inter∣ruption too. The first of 'em that had the Title conferred upon him was Henry Piercy Lord Constable, who took possession of i Anno 1377. under the Reign of Richard II.

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Three of his Name and Family injoy'd it after him, before John Nevil, Lord Montague, was advanced to this Honour by King Edward II; who, after six years, resigned it to Henry Piercy, that had been dispossessed of it. An∣other Henry Piercy injoy'd it after him, who died in the Year 1527. And 24 years after his Death, the foresaid John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, was by Edward VI. created Duke of Northumberland, viz. Anno 1551. Six Years after this the Title of Earl returned to the Piercies, in the person of Thomas, Earl of Northumberland. In which Family it has continued ever since, till the Year 1670, when Joceline Piercy died at Turin in Italy, without Issue male. At present we have a Duke of Northumberland, his Grace George Fitz-Roy, third Son to the Dutchess of Cleveland; who in the Year 1674. was created by King Charles II. Baron of Pontefract, Viscount Fal∣mouth, and Duke of Northumberland.

Notting∣hamshire.

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, an Inland County, is bounded Eastward with Lincoln∣shire, from which it is separated a good way by the River Trent; Westward, with Derby∣shire, and some part of Yorkshire; North∣ward, with Yorkshire; and Southward, with Leicestershire.

It is of an oval Form, doubling in length twice its breadth.

Its Length, from North to South, is about 40 miles; the Breadth, from East to West, 20. The Whole divided into 8 Wapentakes or Hundreds, 168 Parishes, and 9 Market-Towns.

As for the Soil of this County, part of it is Clay-Ground, part sandy Ground, and the rest Woody. The South East Part, be∣ing

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watered by the Trent and small Rivers that fall into it, is the most fruitfull; and this is the Clay Part. The Western, where the Forest of Shirwood is, (so famous for Robin-Hood, and his Companions) is stocked not only with Wood, but Pit-Coal; well served besides with Game.

Besides the River Trent, here are several small Streams whereby this Country is watered. Among which the Iddie, which empty's it self Northward into the Dun, is the most con∣siderable.

As for the Air, 'tis counted as good here, especially in the sandy Parts, as any where else in England.

Nottingham, the Shire-Town, from whence the whole County takes its Denomination, is 94 miles from London, to the North-West. Viz. from London to Leicester, 78 miles, the Particulars whereof you may see in Leicester∣shire; from thence to Loughborow 8; and to Nottingham, 8 more.

'Tis seated about a mile on the North-side of the River Trent, upon a Hill, which over∣looks it. Over this River it has a fair Stone∣bridge, and another over the Lean a small River; besides two other Bridges over two Ponds, called the Cheney Bridges. The Town is large, containing 3 Parish Churches; for Buildings, fair Streets, and a spacious Market-Place, not yielding to many Cities. But of most fame for its Castle, which for strength, stateliness, and prospect, did formerly challenge the precedency of most Castles in England. Honoured besides with the Title of an Earl∣dom, at this time injoy'd by the Right Ho∣nourable Daniel Finch, Earl of Nottingham, and principal Secretary of State. Descended

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to him from his Father Heneage Finch, Lord High Chancellour of England in the Reign of King Charles II, and by him created Earl of Nottingham, Baron Finch of Daventry, &c. Which hapned soon after the Death of the Lord Charles Howard, who dying without Issue male was the last of that Family which injoy'd that Title. In short, Nottingham is a Town well inhabited and frequented, this being the Place where the County-Goal is, and where the Assizes are held; and injoy's as good a Trade, as most Inland Towns. For Provisions it has 3 Markets a Week, Wednes∣days, Fridays, and Saturdays, this last the most considerable.

The other Market Towns are

  • Southwell, Sat.
  • Redford, Sat.
  • Tuxford, Mund.
  • Newark, Wedn.
  • Worksop, Wedn,
  • Mansfield, Thu.
  • Bingham, Thu.
  • Blith, Thu.

Southwell is seated on a Rivulet, that falls not far off from hence into the Trent. 'Tis an ancient Town, and has a Collegiate Church.

Redford is situate on the River Iddel. Not far from which is Littleburg, on the Trent, noted for its Ferry, much resorted unto for a Passage into Lincolnshire.

Tuxford, from its Clay-Ground called Tux∣ford upon Clay, has nothing remarkable in it but its Church and Steeple, both very neat and pretty, though in a dirty Soil. For the Conveniency of Travellers, this being a Road-Town to and from the North, is accom∣modated with two very good Inns lately built.

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Newark, the Place of most note in this County next to Nottingham, ly's in the high Road to York, on the Banks of the River Trent, where it divides it self into two Branches, and makes up an Island before the Town. This is a good large Town; otherwise In∣considerable, but for its Market Place, its. Church and Steeple, and the Ruins of a state∣ly Castle, which are still to be seen. 'Tis true it gives the Title of Viscount to the Earl of Kingston.

Mansfield and Worksop are both in the Fo∣rest of Sherwood. The first, a good large Town, graced with well-built Houses, well in∣habited, and having a good Trade for Malt, and other Provisions. The other of chief note for the great store it yields of the best Licorish in all the Northern Parts.

As for Ringham and Blith, they are but in∣different Towns; and their Markets, accor∣dingly.

To conclude, this County (now in the Dio∣cese of York) was part of the ancient King∣dom of Mercia; and its Inhabitants, part of the Critani, as the Romans called them.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but six Members to serve in Parliament. Viz. Two by Nottingham, two by Newark, and two more by Eastretford.

Oxfordshire

OXFORDSHIRE, another Inland Coun∣ty, is bounded on the East by Buckingham∣shire, from which it is divided in part by the Chiltern-Hills; on the West, by Glocestershire; on the North, by the Counties of Warwick and Northampton; on the South, by the Thames, which parts it from Parkshire.

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It contains in Length, from North to South, about 40 Miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 26. The Whole divided into 14 Hundreds, 280 Parishes, and 15 Market-Towns.

The Air of this County is mightily com∣mended for its sweetness and temperateness, as the Soil is for its fruitfulness. Both which make this Country so much inhabited as it is by Gentry. And that which adds much to it, is the pleasantness of its Hills here, well doathed with Wood, and stored (as well as the Downs) with Variety of Game, both for the Hawk and Hound.

Besides the Thames, which waters the South Parts of it, here's the Tame and the Isis, which make up the Thames; the Cherwell, the Windrush, and the Evenlode. So that this County is as well Irrigated, as most are in the Kingdom.

Oxford, the principal Place in this Shire, from whence it takes its Name, bears from London West-North-West, and is distant there∣from 47 Miles, thus. From London to Ʋx∣bridge, 15; to Beaconfield, 7 more; thence to High Wickam, 5; to Stoken-Church, 5 more; from thence to Wheatly-Bride, 9; and to Oxford, 6 more.

A Place of that Importance, especially in relation to the Muses, that it deserves a par∣ticular Description; for which I refer you (together with that of London and Cambridge) to the Conclusion of this Part. So I pro∣ceed to

The other Market-Towns of this County,

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  • Burford, Sat.
  • Deddington, Sat.
  • Watlington, Sat.
  • ...Woodstock,
  • ...Tame,
  • Bampton, Wed.
  • Chipping-Norton, Wed.
  • Banbury, Thu.
  • Henly, Thu.
  • Witney, Thu.
  • Burcester, Frid.
  • ...Fairford,
  • ...Bistow,
  • ...Coleford,

Among which Burford, seated on an Ascent near the River Windrush in the West of Oxfordshire, is a Town of good Antiquity. Remarkable heretofore for a great Battle fought near it about the Year 750. between Cuthbert, a Tri∣butary King of the West-Saxons, and Ethel∣bald the Mercian King, whose insupportable Exactions Cuthbert could not indure. In this Fight Cuthbert had the fortune to overthrow the Mercian King, and to win his Banner, wherein was depicted a golden Dragon. The Memory whereof has continued for several Ages in the Custom used here of making a Dragon yearly, and carrying it about the Town in great Jollity on Midsummer Eve, with the addition of a Giant to it. At pre∣sent Burford is a famons Place for Saddles; and something advantaged besides by the neigh∣bouring Downs, much resorted unto by the Gentry for Horse races. Of late become of further note, by giving the Title of Earl to the Duke of St. Albans.

Woodstock, a well-compacted Borough-Town, is pleasantly seated near a small River, on a rising Ground, with a large Park near it, surrounded with a Wall, and said to be the first inclosed Park. In which was once a Royal House, called Woodstock Bower, built by King Henry I, and inlarged by Henry II, but demo∣lished

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in the long Civil Wars. In this House was born Edward the black Prince; and in the Labyrinth that belonged to it the beau∣tifull Rosamond, King Henry the Second's Mi∣stress, catched her Death, by the poysonous Dose the jealous Queen forced upon her. Where∣upon she was interred at a Nunnery called Godstow, not far from this Town, with this La∣tin Epitaph,

Hàc jacet in Tumbâ Rosa Mundi non Rosa munda, Non redolet, sed olet, quae redolere solet.

Tame, so called from the River of that Name, which with its Branches does almost incom∣pass it, is a pretty large Town, having one spacious Street, and in the midst of it the Market-Place. Over the River is a Bridge, which leads to Buckinghamshire, so near this Town is seated to its Borders. Here is a famous Free School, with a small Hospital, founded by the Lord Williams of Tame, and its Market is eminent chiefly for the buying of Cattle, which makes it much frequented by Grasiers and Butchers from London and other Parts.

Bampton, near the Isis, is a large Town, within a larger Parish, having several Places besides belonging to it. It has a Chappel of Ease, to which belong 3 Vicars, with a li∣beral Maintenance.

Banbury, for wealth and beauty the second Town in this County, is seated in a Flat, on the River Cherwell. Memorable for a great Battle sought near it between the two Hou∣ses of York and Lancaster, which proved so favourable to the Lancastrians, that Edward the Pretender to the Crown was taken Priso∣ner

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in it. This Town also has been digni∣fy'd with the Title of an Earldom, first in the person of William Lord Knolles, created Earl of Banbury, Anno 1626; and continued in his Son▪ Nicholas, the late Earl of Banbury. Lastly, in this Town is made a delicate sort of Cheese, which has added something to its Fame.

Henley stands upon the Thames, over which it has a fair Bridge. 'Tis a large Town Cor∣porate, driving a great Trade of Malt. And its Market is so considerable for Corn, and Barley especially, that there is often sold in one day about 300 Cart-load of Barley for the Malt-Trade of it. The Barge-Men besides of Henley, which make up a good Part of its Inhabitants, gain a good Livelyhood by trans∣porting of Malt, Wood, and other Goods to London. From whence they bring in return such Commodities as they and the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Towns stand in need of.

Witney, seated on the Banks of the River Windrush, and not far from Burford, is a large stragling Town. Most of whose Inha∣bitants get a Livelihood by spinning and card∣ing for Blankets and Rugs, whereof the Clo∣thiers here drive a good Trade. Here is a Free School for the Education of Youth, with a fine Library.

Not far from this Town, and near Eni∣sham, is a Monument of huge and unwrought Stone, called Roll-rich-Stones, set in a circular Compass not unlike those of Stonehinge, and sup∣posed to be there erected, in memory of some great Victory. In this Tract of Ground is a Forest of a large extent, called Whitwood-Forest.

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At the Confluence of the Thame and Isis stands Dorcester. Which indeed is no Market-Town; but, as it is seated on the Road, is well frequented, and accommodated with Inns. A Town formerly of more note than now it is; when Berinus, Apostle of the West Sax∣ons, had his Episcopal See here, which was afterwards removed to Lincoln. However it is graced to this day with a very large and fair Church.

To conclude, Oxfordshire (now in the Dio∣cese of Oxford) was Part of the ancient King∣dom of Mercia. And its Inhabitants, toge∣ther with those of Glocestershire, were known a mong the old Romans by the Name of Dobuni.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, eight Members to sit in Parli∣ament. Viz. 2 by the Ʋniversity, and 2 by the City of Oxford, 2 by Banbury, and 2 more by Woodstock.

Rutland.

RƲTLAND, another Inland County, and the smallest in England, is bounded East and North, by Lincolnshire; Westward, by Lei∣cestershire; and Southward, by Northampton∣shire, from which it is severed by the River Weland.

It contains in Length, from North to South, 12 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, but 〈◊〉〈◊〉. The Whole divided into five Hundreds, wherein 48 Parishes, and but 2 Market-Towns.

As little as this County is, yet for qua∣lity it yields to none of the best, either as to Air or Soil.

As for the Air, it is temperate, wholesom, and not subject to Fogs.

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The Soil exceeding good either for Corn, or Pasture, especially about the Vale of Cat∣moss. For, besides its plenty of Corn, it feeds great Herds of Cattle, and Flocks of Sheep, whose Wool participates of the Colour of the Earth, which is reddish. 'Tis also well cloath∣ed with Wood. and watered with fresh Streams, the chief among which are the Weland, and the Wash. Lastly, this little County has more Parks, considering its Extent, than any other County in England.

Okeham, the chief Place hereof, bears from London North North-West, and is distant there∣from 74 Miles, thus. From London to Bed∣ford, 40, for which see Bedfordshire; from Bedford to Wellingbury, 12; and to Kettering, 5 more; thence to Ʋppingham, 12; and to Oke∣ham, 5 more.

Called Okeham, as some would have it, from the plenty of Oaks that grow in its Neigh∣bourhood; and seated in a rich and pleasant Valley, called the Vale of Catmoss. Its Buid∣ings are indifferent good, especially the Church, the Free-School, and the Hospital. The Ca∣stle, where the Assizes are held, is a Place of more antiquity than beauty. And its Market, which is on Saturdays, is indifferent∣ly well served with Provisions.

This Town has an ancient Priviledge be∣longing to its Royalty; which is, if any No∣ble-man enter within its Precinct on Horse∣back, he forfeits a Shoe from his Horse, un∣less he redeem it by Mony. Which Homage has been acknowledged by several of he No∣bility that have passed this Way; as is evi∣denced by many Horse-Shoes nailed upon the Shire-Hall Door. In which Hall, over the Judges Seat, is a Horse-Shoe of Iron curi∣ously

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wrought, 5 foot and a half long, with a breadth proportionable.

Ʋppingham, the other Market-Town, seated on an Eminence, is a pretty compacted and well-built Town, having the Accommation of a Free School and an Hospital. Its Market, kept on Wednesdays, is counted better than that of Okeham.

In short, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inha∣bitants Part of the Coritani, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Peter∣borough. It is dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, now in the person of the Right Ho∣nourable John Mannors Earl of Rutland, and Baron Ross, &c. Derived to him from his Ancestor Tho. Mannors, created Earl of Rut∣land by King Henry VIII. in the Year 1325, and descended by the Lady Ann his Mother from Richard, second Son of Edmund of Lang∣ley Duke of York.

Out of this County are only elected the two Knights of the Shire, to serve in Parlia∣ment.

CHAP. XIV.

Of Shropshire, Somersetshire, and Staffordshire.

Shropshire.

SHROPSHIRE, or Salop, an Inland Coun∣ty, is bounded on the East with Stafford∣shire; on the West, with the Welch Counties of Denbigh and Montgomery; on the North with Cheshire, and on the South, with Herefordshire.

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Its Length, from North to South, is about 35 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, 26. The Whole divided into fifteen Hundreds, wherein 170 Parishes, and 15 Market-Towns.

Here the Air is counted very wholesom, and the Soil as fruitfull, both for Corn and Pasture. Tis well cloathed with Wood, and in the Bowels of the Earth are Mines of Iron and Pitcoal in great plenty. But, to∣wards the West and South Parts, the Country is very hilly, and mountainous.

As for fresh Streams, no County is better watered than this. For, besides the Severn, which in its crooked and winding Course, cuts the Shire in the midst, here are the Roden, the Terne, Clum, Rea, and Teme. In all which are plenty of fresh-Water Fish.

And, as this County is inferiour to none about it, either for delight or penty; So for the Number of Towns and Castles, standing exceeding thick on every side (as having formerly been a Frontier-County to∣wards Wales) it is far above 'em.

Shrewsbury, the chief Place hereof, bears from London North-West and by West, and is distant therefrom 124 miles, thus. Viz. From London to St. Albans, 20; and to Dun∣stable, 10 more; thence to Stony-Stratford, 14; to Towcester, 6; and to Daventry, 10 more; from thence to Covenrry, 14; and to Ber∣mingham, 14 more; then to Dudley, 8; to Bridgenorth, 12 more; from Bridgenorth to Wenlock, 6; and from thence to Shrewsbury, 10.

'Tis seated in the very midst (or Cen∣ter as it were) of the County, on a pleasant Ascent, and on the Banks of the Severn, not far from the Place where stood Ʋriconium, out of whose Ruins 'tis said to be raised. The

Page 185

Severn do's almost incompass it round; and that Part of it which is not fenced with it is fortified with a strong Castle, built by Ro∣ger de Montgomery, the first Earl hereof. A Town which, for neatness of Buildings both publick and private, for variety and fineness of Streets, for extent and populousness, yields to few Cities in England It contains five Parish-Churches, two of which (viz. St. Ma∣rie's and St. Alchmond's) are fair Structures, and beautify'd with lofty Spires. And here are still to be seen the Remains of a stately Ab∣bey, founded by the foresaid Earl of Mont∣gomery. Besides the natural Strength of this Place, it is fenced about with a strong Wall, with a Bulwark ranging from the Castle unto (and part along) the Severn. On the East and West there are three Entrances into the Town by two fair Stone-bridges, with Gates, Towers, and Bars; and on the North, by a Gate, over which stands the Castle, once ex∣ceeding strong. Remarkable besides for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Charles Talbot, the present Earl of Shrewsbury. In short, 'tis a well-traded and frequented Town by all sorts of people, both English and Welch, whose frequent Intercourse brought them to speak both Speeches. The principal Trade they drive here is in Cloths, Frizes, Welch Cottons, and some other Commodities, this being the common Mart or Empory between England and Wales. And here are Weekly 3 Markets, Viz. On Wednesdays for Provi∣sions, on Thursdays for Welch Cottons, &c. (here sold in great abundance, and thence sent to London,) on Saturdays for all sorts of Provisions.

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The other Market-Towns are

  • Bridgenorth, Sat.
  • Newport, Sat.
  • Ludlow, Mund.
  • Great Wenlock, Mund.
  • Oswestree, Mund.
  • Ellismeer, Tue.
  • Shipton, Tue.
  • Drayton, Wedn.
  • Wem, Thu.
  • Wellington, Thu.
  • Stretton, Thu.
  • Whitechurch, Frid.
  • Bishops Castle, Frid.
  • ...Clebury,

Among which Ludlow, seated in the South Parts of the County, upon the Banks of the Teme, is the most considerable. The Town is large, and populous; beautified with many fair Edifices. It is also defended by a Wall and a Castle, both built by Earl Roger of Montgomery.

But it is of chief note, for being the Place where the Court for the Marshes of Wales were kept, first ordained by King Henry VIII. for the Trial of Causes, but suppressed in the late Session of Parlia∣ment.

Bridgenorth, or the Borough of Bruges, is situate upon the Severn, over which there's a fair Stone-bridge. 'Tis a good large Town, divided into two Parts, the one called the Upper, the other the Lower Town, contain∣ing two Parish Churches. In former time fortified with Walls, a Ditch, and a stately Castle seated on a Rock, now decay'd.

Drayton, on the River Terne, where it se∣vers this County from Staffordshire, is a Place of some note for a Battel there fought betwixt the Houses of York and Lanca∣ster.

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Newport lies South of Drayton, on a Plain or Flat adjoyning to Staffordshire. Great Wenlock, in the Road from Worcester to Shrewsbury. Bishops Castle, in the South Parts, not far from the River Clun. Wem, on the Roden, in the North Parts of the County; noted for the Title of Baron it lately gave to the Lord Chancellour Jeffreys. Oswestree and Ellismore, near the Borders of Wales. Whitechurch, on the Confines of the County near Cheshire.

At Wenlock, in the Time of Richard the Second, was found a rich Copper Mine. And at Pitchford in this County is a Well, or Spring, in a private Man's Yard, wherein flow's a thick Scum of liquid Bitumen; which being cleared and taken off one day, will have the like upon it again the next.

Alderbury, though no Market-Town, is famed for being the Birth-place of old Thomas Parre, who lived to a great Age, and about two years before he died was brought up to London to King Charles I. Where he died, and lies buried in Westminster Abbey. He was born Anno 1483, died in the Year 1635, lived 152 Years, and saw ten eigns.

Lastly, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii, as the Ro∣mans called them) stands now divided betwixt the Dioceses of Lichfield and Here∣ford.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, ten Members of Par∣liament. Viz. two out of each of these fol∣lowing Towns, Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Great Wenlock, Bridgenorth, and Bishops-Castle.

Page 188

Somerset∣shire.

SOMERSETSHIRE, a large Ma∣ritime County in the West of England, is so called from Somerton, once the most famous and most considerable Town in all the County, and now but a small Market-Town of little or no credit.

'Tis bounded on the East by Wiltshire and part of Devonshire; on the West, by Devon∣shire; Northward, by the Severn Sea, and part of Glocestershire; Southward, by the Coun∣ties of Devon and Dorset.

Its Length, from East to West, is about 55 miles; its Breadth, from North to South, 40. The Whole divided into 42 Hun∣dreds, wherein 385 Parishes, and 30 Market-Towns.

The Air of this County, in the Summer Season, is very agreeable; but, in Winter∣time, 'tis apt to be too moist and foggy.

Accordingly the Soil in Winter is wet, miry, and moorish, especially in the midst of the Country, which makes the Roads very uneasy to Travellers. But in Summer there is no pleasanter Country, being garnished (as it is) with rich Pastures and delight∣ful Meadows. Which has given occasion to an usual Proverb here, that what is worse for the Rider is best for the Abider.

And, besides Corn and Cattle, wherewith this Country is plentifully stored, here are in∣some Parts, especially towards Wiltshire, rich Lead-Mines, to the great benefit not only of the County, but of the whole Kingdom. These Mines are found particularly in the Hills called Mendip-Hills; of no small Profit to the Owners.

As for its Diamonds, commonly called Bri∣stol-Stones,

Page 189

I refer you to Bristol in Glo∣cestershire.

Besides the Severns Mouth, whereby the North-West Part of this Country is water∣ed, here is the Avon, which parts this Coun∣ty from Glocestershire, the Parret, the Tor, Tone, Frome, and others, well stored with ex∣cellent Fish.

In this County are three Cities, Bristol, Bath, and Wells. Bristol indeed stands also in Glo∣cestershire; and, as I have already described it there, I shall pass it over here.

Bath bears West and by South from Lon∣don, and is distant therefrom 94 miles. Viz. from London to Reading, 32 miles, as you may see in Parkshire; from thence to Newbery, 15; and to Marlborough, 15 more; thence to Chipenham, 15; and to Bath 13 more.

It is so called from its Medicinal hot Baths, much resorted unto from all Parts, as being found by long experience to be of great virtue in the curing of Aches and other Di∣stempers.

Its Situation is on the River Avon, over which it has a Stone-Bridge; and there it lies in a low and small Plain, surrounded with Hills very high and steep, out of which issue forth several Springs of Water, which pay Tribute to it. This is a Place of great Antiquity, as does appear by many Roman Inscriptions and Images commonly found in the Walls which incompass it. And where the Abbey now stands, 'tis said there was of old a Temple consecrated to Minerva, the Goddess of Fountains and Baths. In short, 'tis a fine City, graced with well∣built Houses; and for divine Worship, hav∣•••••• a Parish Church, besides its Cathe∣dral.

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The Baths in it are four in number, viz. the Cross, and the hot Bath, in the West Parts of the City, the King's and the Queen's-Bath, in the middle.

The Cross Bath, so called from a Cross that formerly stood in the midst of it, is Triangular, about 25 foot long, and as broad at one end. This is of a more gentle heat than the rest, because it has fewer Springs. About 100 foot from it is the Hot-Bath, so called, because formerly it was much hotter than the rest, when it was not so large as now it is.

The King's Bath is about 60 foot square, and has about the middle of it many hot Springs rising, whence it has the greater heat. The Queen's Bath has no Spring in it, but on∣ly receives the Water from the King's Bath, from which it is only divided by a Wall; and so it is more temperate than the King's. In these two Baths is a Pump, to pump Water upon the Diseased, where strong Embrocati∣ons are required.

In every one of the Baths are Seats of Stone, for the conveniency of those that use 'em. But from 8 a Clock in the morning till about 3 in the afternoon, these Baths are shut up, and none permitted entrance; being then so very hot, that they work and cast up a filth from the bottom.

The Inhabitants of Bath do not only find a great advantage by these Medicinal Springs, but also by their Cloth Manufacture, wherein they drive a considerable Trade. And, for Provisions, they have two Markets a Week, viz. Wednesdays and Satur∣days.

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This City is Partner with Wells, the Bi∣shops See, in the Title Episcopal.

Noted besides, for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable John Granvile, creat∣ed Earl of Bath by King Charles the II. Anno 1661. Which Title was formerly in∣joy'd by the Heirs of John Bourchier, who was created Earl of Bath by King Henry VIII. Anno 1536; but went away from that Fa∣mily by the Death of Henry Bourchier, dying without Issue male.

Wells, seated at the foot of a Hill, is so called from the Springs and Wells that spring about it. 'Tis a small City, but well inha∣bited, and adorned with fair Buildings, both publick and private. The Cathedral, among the rest, is a stately Pile of building, hav∣ing in the West End a Frontispiece of excel∣lent Imagery and carved Stone-work; de∣dicated to S. Andrew, and said to be first built by Ina, King of the West-Saxons. Ad∣joyning to it is the Bishops Pallace, built in the manner of a Castle, and fortified with Walls and a Mote; and on the other side are the Prebends Houses, &c. The Market-house is also a neat Building, supported by Pillars. Lastly, this City has two Markets a Week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, as Bath.

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The other Market-Towns are

  • Bruton, Sat.
  • Langport, Sat.
  • Crokehorn, Sat.
  • Ilmister, Sat.
  • Watchet, Sat.
  • Dulverton, Sat.
  • Chard, Mun.
  • Somerton, Mun.
  • Glassenbury, Tue.
  • Wivescomb, Tue.
  • Pensford, Tue.
  • Wrinton, Tue.
  • N. Petherton, Tue.
  • N. Curry, Tue. & Sat.
  • Wincaunton, Wedn.
  • Ilchester, Wedn.
  • Froumselwood, Wedn.
  • Taunton, Wedn. & Sat.
  • Axebridge, Thu.
  • S. Petherton, Thu.
  • Bridgewater, Thu.
  • Wellington, Thu.
  • Canesham, Thu.
  • Evill, Frid.
  • Dunster, Frid.
  • Shepton-Mallet, Frid.
  • ...Philip-Norton,
  • ...Minehead,

Among which Bruton, seated on the River Brue, is a well-built and inhabited Town, that drives a good Trade for Clothing, Serges, and Maulting. 'Tis graced with a beautifull Church, has a Free School founded by King Edward the Sixth, and a very fine Alms∣house.

Langport stands on the top of a Hill, in a miry and moorish Country, and near the River Parret, which next to the Avon is the most considerable.

South-Petherton, Crokehorn, Chard, and Il∣mister ly not far asunder, near the West-Bor∣ders of Dorsetshire; the first two, on the Banks of the Parret. Dulverton, on the Ex, borders upon Devonshire.

Wivescomb, Wellington, North Curry, and Taun∣ton are seated on the River Tone. Taunton, the chief of all the List, is a neat and popu∣lous Town, graced with spacious Streets, and

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a fine Bridge over the River. Inhabited chiefly by Clothiers, who drive a considera∣ble Trade with the Cloths and Serges made here, and in the adjacent Parts. It con∣tains two Parish Churches.

Bridgewater and Glassenbury are the two Pla∣ces of chief note next to Taunton; the first seated on the Parret, the laft on the Tor, and each with a Stone-Bridge over its proper Ri∣ver. The first is a large, well-inhabited, and frequented Town, adorned with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Ho∣nourable John Egerton, the present Earl of Bridgewater. Derived to him from his Father John Egerton, created Earl of Brigewater by King James I. Anno 1617. Which Title was formerly injoyed by Henvy Lord Dawbeney, ad∣vanced from a Knight to this Dignity by King Henry VIII; he being Son of that Giles Daw∣beney, who came in with King Henry VII. from Bretagne in France. But he dying with∣out Issue, this Title died with him; till re∣vived, as aforesaid.

Glassenbury, of old called the Island of Avalon, is of chief note for its once famous and state∣ly Abbey; the Monks whereof (for the Cre∣dit of it) gave it out, that the Body of Jo∣seph of Arimathea lay there Interred. Cer∣tain it is, that this was a Shelter to the Britains in the latter Times of the British Churches, when they were miserably harassed and persecuted by the Pagan Saxons And it might be (as Dr. Stillingfleet says) of far greater request among the Britains, because it was the Place where King Arthur was bu∣ried. Whose Body was found there very deep in the Earth in the Reign of Henry II, with a Latine Inscription on a leaden Cross, ex∣pressing

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that King Arthur lay there buried in the Island of Avalon. And his Body was laid so deep for fear of the Saxons, this being a Place of Retreat in the British Times, but not without the apprehension of their Ene∣mies Invasion.

Axebridge is so called from the River Axe, on which it is situate, Pensford and Canesham ly North and by East from Axebridge; both seated on the Chire, and the last at its very fall into the Avon, near Bristol. Philip-Nor∣ton and Froumselwood stand near the Froume, on the Confines of Wiltshire. Shepton-Malles and Somerton ly South and by West from 'em; both pretty large, but poor Towns. Whereas Somerton (as I said before) was once a Place of such note, that the Shire took its Name from it.

Ilchester, so called from the River Ill, or Yeovel, upon which it is seated, is a Town of great Antiquity, and was once a Place of good Strength. Then it had 16 Parish Churches, now reduced to two. However this is the Place where the County-Goal is kept. Evil, or Yeovel, stands upon the same River, and grows by the decay of of its Neighbour Ilchester.

Winaunton stands on the side of a Hill, in the Road to London; and is a good Mar∣ket-Town, for Cheese especially.

Minehead, Watchet, and Dunster ly all three by the Sea-side. But the first has the best Harbour, and is a Place of some Trade, es∣pecially into Ireland. West from which, to∣wards Devonshire, stands another Sea-Town called Porlock, noted for its Bay or Harbour, sometimes resorted unto by Seamen in those Parts.

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But, to conclude, this County in general is noted for two Things, besides the fore-men∣tioned. The first, for giving the Title of Duke to his Grace, Charles Seymour, the pre∣sent Duke of Somerset, Marquess of Hartford, &c. Descended from Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, and Lord Protector of King Ed∣ward the Sixth, who was beheaded Anno 1552. But, upon the Restauration of King Charles the Second, the Title was restored to the Line in the person of William Seymour, the great Grandchild of the foresaid Duke; from whom it is now devolved to the present Duke, Bro∣ther to Francis who was killed in Italy.

'Tis remarkable besides, that this County was few Years since the Scene which brought the late Duke of Monmouth, with many of his Followers, to their tragical End; and gave an Opportunity to the Popish Party, by the uncontroulable Authority of the late King James, to hurry on their Design of Intailing Popery and Slavery upon these Nations. Which was wonderfully defeated, under God, by the Magnanimity of our present King.

Lastly, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, and its Inhabitants Part of the Belgae in the Time of the Romans) is now in the Diocese of Bah and Wells.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 16 Members of Parliament, Viz. Two out of each of these following Pla∣ces, Bristol, Bath, Wells, Taunton, Bridgewater, Minehead, Ilchester, and Milburn Port. Which last stands on the Confines of Dorset∣shire.

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In the South Parts of this County is a sharp Hill, called Montacute, which gives the Title of Viscount to the Right-Honourable Francis Brown, the present Viscount Montacute. Derived to him from Anthony Brown, created Viscount Montacute in the Reign of Queen Mary, Anno 1354; being descended from the Lady Lucy, Daughter of John Nevil, Grand∣child of Tho. Montacute Earl of Salisbury, who was created Lord Montacute, and afterwards Marquess Montacute, by King Edward the fourth.

Stafford∣shire.

STAFFORDSHIRE, an Inland Coun∣ty, is bounded Eastward by Derbyshire and part of Warwickshire, parted from the first for the most part by the River Dove; West∣ward, by Cheshire and Shropshire; Northward, by Cheshire and part of Derbyshire; and Southward, by Worcestershire.

Its Length, from North to South, is at least 40 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, a∣bout 25. The whole divided into five Hun∣dreds, where in 130 Parishes, and 18 Market-Towns.

The Air is counted here pretty good and healthfull, but it is somewhat sharp in Win∣ter.

As for the Soil, 'tis true the greatest Part of the Country is taken up with Moors, and Woods; insomuch that one may go the whole length of the County, and see little but Heaths and Moors. But they are such as yield both profit and pleasure. Profit, by breeding Multitudes of Sheep, Deer, and Co∣nies; and many of 'em by the Husbandmans Industry, yielding very good Corn. Plea∣sure, for they afford the greatest plenty of

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Heath-Game of any County in the King∣dom, either by Hawking or Hunting. And so great was formerly the Number of Parks and Warrens in this Shire, that there was scarce any Gentlemans Seat in the Coun∣ty but what had both Park and Warrens. The chief Forests are those of Cank and Kinvare; and among Chases, those of Need∣wood, Peasey, and Alderwas Hay.

In short, the North Part of this Country is full of Hills, and Woods, the South stored with Coals and Mines of Iron, and the middle Part (being watered with the River Trent) adorned with fair Corn-fields and Meadows. And yet in the North-Parts the Pastures near the River Dove yield the sweetest and fattest Mutton in England.

For Manuring the Ground, here's plenty both of Lime and Marl. For Building, a∣bundance of Timber and Stone, which last for its fineness and durableness is held in good esteem. A sort of Plaister is made of the Lime, which soon after it is laid, grows as white as Snow, and as hard as a Stone. Here is also a good deal of Alabaster; and, in some Places, salt Springs, yielding plenty of white Salt, not much inferiour to the best Salt in Cheshire.

The Hills of most note are Mowcop-hill, in the Confines of Cheshire, where Mill-stones are got; Dudley-hill, which affords a fine Pro∣spect; the Shaw, which overlooks the Coun∣ties of Darby and Leicester; and the We∣ver.

With Rivers, Springs, and Brooks, no Coun∣ty in England is better watered than this. Besides the Trent, here is the Dove, the Chur∣net, the Blithe, the Line, the Tean, the Sowe,

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the Penk, the Manifold, and several others; some emptying themselves into the Dove, as this dees into the Trent, and all of them sto∣red with most sorts of fresh-water Fish. The Trent, of special note for its Pikes, Pearches, Fels, and Graylings; the Dove, for its Trouts; and the Blithe, for Eels. And over all these Rivers are reckoned at least 24 Stone∣bridges.

But as the Gentry here are not so curi∣ous in their private Buildings as they be in other Places, to amongst the numerous Towns that are here few can boast of any Beau∣ty.

Stafford, the Shire-Town, from whence the County takes its Name, bears from London North-West, and is distant therefrom 104 miles, thus. From London to Northampton, 54 miles, for the particulars whereof I re∣fer you to Northamptonshire; from thence to Coventry, 20 miles; to Lichfield, 20 more; and thence to Stafford, 10.

A Town pleasantly seated on the Banks of the-River Sowe, which washes its South and West Parts, with a Bridge over it. For∣merly fenced with a Wall, except where it was secured by a large Pool or Water on the North and East. Here are two Parish-Churches, a free School, and a fine Market-Place. The Streets are large, and graced with many good Buildings. And its Market, which is kept on Saturdays, is well served with most sorts of Provisions.

This Town did formerly belong to the noble Family of the Staffords, first with the Title of Earl hereof and afterwards of Lord or Baron. Henry Stafford was the last of that Line, who dying Anno 1639, the Family of

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the Staffords died also with him. But, the next year after, William Howard, Knight of the Bath, and second Son of Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, having to Wife a Daughter of the last Lord Stafford, was by King Charles I. created Viscount and Lord Stafford. Who, being found Guilty of High Treason by his Peers, Dec. 7th 1680, was beheaded upon Tower-Hill Dec. 29. But the Title was in the late Reign revived in his Son Henry, the present Earl of Staf∣ford.

Lastly, though Stafford be the County-Town, yet it is not the chief, either for extent or beauty, it being out-done by

Lichfield, a City and County of it self, seated in a low and Moorish Ground, on a shallow Pool, by which it is divided into two Parts, both joyned together by a Bridge and a Causey, and making up a City of indiffe∣rent bigness. In the South Part, which is the greater of the two, stands a Grammar-School for the Education of Children, and an Hospi∣tal dedicated to S. John, for the Relief of the Poor. In the other Parts there's nothing considerable but a fair Cathedral, and that suf∣ficient of it self to renoun the Place. First built by Oswin, King of Northumberland, about the Year 656, who gave the Bishops hereof many Possessions. Afterwards being taken down by Roger de Clinton, the 37th Bi∣shop of this Diocese, that which now stands was built by him, and dedicated to the Vir∣gin Mary and S. Chad. Besides the Cathedral, this City has 3 Parish Churches. And its Weekly Markets, kept on Tuesdays and Fri∣days, are well served with Provisions.

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But Lichfield is not only honoured with a Bishops See. 'Tis dignify'd besides with the Title of an Earldom, in the person of the Right Honourable Edward Henry Lee, who was created by Charles II. Baron of Spellesbury, Viscount Quarendon, and Earl of Lichfield, Anno 1674.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Newcastle, Mund.
  • Stone, Tue.
  • Betles, Tue.
  • Pagets Bromley Tue.
  • Tudbury, Tue.
  • Walsall, Tue.
  • Ridgeley, Tue.
  • Penkridge, Tue.
  • Brewood, Tue.
  • Leek, Wedn.
  • Ʋtoxeter, Wedn.
  • Wolverhampton, Wedn.
  • Checkley, Thu.
  • Burton, Thu.
  • Eccleshall, Frid.
  • Tamworth, Sat.

Among which Newcastle, commonly called Newcastle under Line, from the Rivulet Line upon which it is seated, and that to di∣stinguish it from Newcastle upon Tine in Nor∣thumberland, is a large Town, but mean in its Buildings, most of 'em being thatch∣ed.

Ʋtoxeter and Tudbury are seated on the River Dove; Stone and Burton, upon Trent, the first in the Road from London to Chester, and the last famous for its Bridge leading into Derbyshire; Pagets Bromley, on the Blithe; and Checkley, on the Teane.

Tamworth is seated on the Tame, where the Auker falls into it, with a Stone-Bridge over each. It stands part in this County, and part in Staffordshire; one part washed by the Tame, and the other Part by the

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Auker. In short, 'tis a good Town, beau∣tified with a large Church, and strength∣ened with a small (but strong) Castle.

Walsall is seated on the top of a high Hill, pretty well built, and driving a good Trade of Nails, Spurs, Stirrups, Bridle-bits, and Bel∣lows made here in great plenty.

Penkridge, a Place of good Antiquity, seat∣ed near the River Penk, is now only famous for its Horse-Fair, and chiefly for Saddle-Nags. And Brewood, for that the Bishops of this Diocese had here their Pallace before the Conquest.

Wolverhampton was only called Hampton, till such time as one Vulver, a devout Woman, inriched the Town with a Religious House. It stands upon a Hill, and has a Collegiate Church annexed to the Deanry of Windsor. About four miles from this Place stood the Oak, where the late King Charles took San∣ctuary for some Days after his Defeat at Worcester, till he was conveyed to the House of Mrs. Jane Lane, who was a chief Instru∣ment in his Conveyance beyond Sea. From whence this famous Tree came to be called the Royal Oak.

Lastly, this County (formerly Part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii) is now in the Diocese of Lichfield and Coventry.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, eight Members of Par∣liament. Viz. two out of each of these fol∣lowing Towns, Stafford, Lichfield, Newcastle un∣der Line, and Tamworth.

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CHAP. XV.

Of Suffolk, Surrey, and Sussex.

Suffolk.

SƲFFOLK, a large Maritime County, is bounded on the East with the Ger∣man Ocean; on the West, with Cam∣bridgeshire; Northward, with Norfolk; and Southward, with Essex.

Called Suffolk, q. d. Southfolk, in opposition to Norfolk, which lies North from it.

It contains in Length, from East to West, about 45 miles; in Breadth, from North to South, where broadest, at least 30. The Whole divided into 22 Hundreds, wherein 575 Parishes, and 30 Market-Towns. A strong Argument of its Populousness.

Here the Air is counted so wholsom, that some London Physicians have prescribed it for the Cure of their consumptive Pati∣ents.

As to the Soil, the Eastern Parts all along the Coast, for five or six miles Inland, are ge∣nerally heathy, sandy, and full of blea Hills; yet such as yield abundance of Rye Pease, and Hemp, and feed abundance o Sheep. The more Inland Part, commonly called high Suffolk, or the Wood-Lands, is for the mo•••• part Clay-Ground, and is husbanded chiefly for the Dairy, this County being noted fo its excellent Butter. The Southern Parts

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along the Borders of Essex and Cambridge∣shire, are much of the same nature for Wood and Pasture-Ground. But the Parts about Bury, and to the North-West from thence, are generally Champain, abounding with excellent Corn of all sorts. And as for Parks, here are reckoned in this County near upon fifty.

For Rivers, few Counties are so well wa∣tered. Besides the little Ouse and the Wave∣ney, which part it from Norfolk here is the Stoure, which severs it from Essex, the Orwell or Gippe, the Ore, Blithe, Deben, and Breton, &c.

Ipswich, the chief Place hereof, bears from London North-East, and is distant from thence 55 miles, thus. From London to Colchester, 43 miles, as you may see in Essex; and 12 from thence to Ipswich.

This is one of the best and most thriving Towns in England, seated in the South-East Parts of the County, on the Banks of the Orwell, about 20 miles from its fall into the Sea. A Place of great Antiquity, former∣ly walled about by a Rampire of Earth, which in the Year 991 was thrown down by the Danes; who grievously harassed these Parts, and some years after came with such a fury, that they left scarce any thing of Ipswich but the Ruins of its Buildings. But, that Storm being over, it began in the Nor∣mans Time to recover it self. So that at this present, whether we consider its Extent, Populousness, or Trade, it yields to very few Cities in England. It reaches a mile in length, and above a mile in breath, with no less than 12 Parish Churches, which shews its Populousness.

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Within that Compass are several fair Buildings, both publick and private; and, among those, the Place of Judicature, a free School with the Conveniency of a good Li∣brary, and for the Relief of the Poor an Hospital. And, as for Cleanliness, 'tis count∣ed (next to Bristol) one of the cleanliest Towns in England. Its chief Trade consists in the Manufacture of Cloth, both Linnen and Woollen, besides Fishing and Ship-build∣ing. For Provisions, &c. it has 3 Markets a Week, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. And, to conclude, it is of some note for be∣ing the Birth-place of Cardinal Wolsey, who be∣gan here to build a stately Colledge, bearing his Name to this day. The same gives the Title of Viscount to his Grace the Duke of Grafton.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Orford, Mun.
  • Hadleigh, Mun.
  • Lavenham, Tue.
  • Mendlesham, Tue.
  • Halesworth, Tue.
  • Bury, Wedn.
  • Iestoft, Wedn.
  • Woodbridge, Wedn.
  • Haveril, Wedn.
  • Bilston, Wedn.
  • Needham, Wedn.
  • Stow. Market, Thu.
  • Tansdale, Thu.
  • Saxmundsham, Thu.
  • Swold, Thu.
  • Buddesdale, Thu.
  • Bungay, Thu.
  • Newmarket, Thu.
  • Iksworth, Frid.
  • Mildenhall, Frid.
  • Clare, Frid.
  • Neyland, Frid.
  • Debenham, Frid.
  • Dunwich, Sat.
  • Eye, Sat.
  • Sudbury, Sat.
  • Framlingham, Sat.
  • Beckles, Sat.
  • Alborough, Sat.

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Among which Bury, or S. Edmunds Bury, is the most remarkable; being so called from King Edmund the Martyr, here interred. Who, for not renouncing the Christian Faith, was shot to death at Hoxon by the Danes, and his Body stuck by degrees with Arrows. In this Town was erected the first Christian Church by Sigebert, King of the East-Angles, in which King Edmund was buried. And, in Memory of him, here was erected a most stately Abbey, of which and the Town it self take this Description from an ancient Author. The Sun, says he, has not seen a Town more finely or delicately seated, upon the East Ascent of a Hill, with a River running on the East side. Nor a more stately Abbey, incom∣parable either for Magnificence or Revenues, in whose prospect appeareth rather a City than a Monastery. So many Gates it has for entrance, and many of them Brass; so many Towers; and, above all, a most glorious Chuch. Upon which attend three others, standing all in the same Church-yard, all of them very fine, and of curious Artifice. The Town, at present, do's consist of two Parish-Churches; the Houses pretty well built; the Market-hill, Fair-stead, and Corn-Cross, spa∣cious and handsom. And for what remains of the Abbey it self (in whose Yard stands an old Shire-House) 'tis far more majestick, than any other Ruins of its kind. The Market is of special note, for the extraordinary Quan∣tities of Corn brought to it, for which 'tis usually the Standard of the Country. Last∣ly, not far from this Town was that great Battel fought against King Henry the Second, where this King had the good fortune to overthrow Robert Earl of Leicester, with his

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Rabble of Flemings, who joyned with the rebellious Son of King Henry, the Earl him∣self and his Wife being taken Prisoners.

Stow-Market and Needham are both seated upon the Orwell. The first, as it were, in the Center of the County, having a fair Pro∣spect down the River Eastward. 'Tis a large and beautifull Town, graced with a spacious Church, and its Steeple adorned with a huge and lofty Pinnacle, not easy to be paral∣lelled. The grand Trade of this Town is in Tammeys, and other Norwich Stuffs, this be∣ing the only Town in Suffolk considerable for such Things.

Needham, an ominous Name, drives still a Trade (but less than formerly) in the Suf∣folk blue and broad Cloths for Russia, Turky, and orher Countries. Which creates spinning Work for the poorer sort of Women, whilst others get a Livelyhood by making of Bone∣lace.

Debenham, and Woodbridge, are on the River. Deben. The last a large Town, seated on the East-side of a sandy Hill, watered with several Streams, and having a pleasant Pro∣spect down the River Deben, which about 12 miles lower discharges it self into the Sea. Here is a fair Church, with several Monu∣ments in it. In the midst of its Market-Place is also a fair Pile of brick, in a Chamber whereof are held the Quarter-Sessions for the Liberty of S. Ethelred and Audry. The Mar∣ket well traded unto, especially for Hemp. In this Town are four or five good Docks for building of Ships, most of 'em well imploy'd, and noted among Seamen for good Work∣manship. The Inhabitants, for their part, drive a considerable Trade by Sea, for which

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they are furnished with several Ships of bur∣den. And the principal Commodities they deal in are Butter, Cheese, Pouldavis, Sack∣cloth, Planks, &c. besides their refining of Salt.

Orford, a few miles East and by South from Woodbridge, is seated between the River Ore on the East and a smaller Stream on the West, within two miles from the Sea. Here is a Church well mounted, but unsightly with∣in; and hard by it the Ruins of a high close-built Castle. Which, together with the Church-Steeple, are good Directions to Sea∣men, as the Light-house at the Ness is by night.

In the Reign of Henry the Second (say's Sir Richard Baker) there was taken near Or∣ford a Fish in the Shape of a Man, which was kept in the Castle above 6 months. This Fish eat all manner of Meat, but delighted chiefly in Fish. An Author that comments upon it says very seriously, that he spoke not one Word, and Reason good, for it was a Fish; and that the People brought him sometimes to Church, but he never shewed any Sign of Adoration, which is no wonder of a Fish. At length, for want of looking to, this Man-Fish stole into the Sea, and was never more seen, because (I guess) the Water was his Element.

But here is something more admirable. On the narrow stony Beach, that shoots Southerly betwixt the Town and the Sea, 'tis said that in the Year 1555, when there was a great Dearth, there sprang up among the Meer∣shingle such Quantities of Pease, that the People gathered of 'em above 100 Quarters; which both abated the price of Corn, and preserved many from famishing. And at the

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South Point of it, there still comes up yearly certain course gray Pease, and good Coleworts out of the Stone-heaps.

Alborough, another Coast-Town, ly's 2 miles North-East of Orford. Pleasantly seated in a Dale, between the Sea on the East, a high Hill on the West where stands a large and old-built Church, and a small River that runs to the Southward. This is a long, large, and plain-built Town, with mean Houses. Chief∣ly noted for its Fishery, for which they have a commodious Key at Slaughden, a quarter of a mile Southwards; and, along the Beach towards Orford, Conveniencies above other Towns, for the drying of their North-Sea-Fish. A little North of the Town is a Village, call∣ed Thorp, whence several Parts of the County are served with Lobsters and Crabs.

Saxmundsham lies North of Alborough, and at some distance from the Sea, upon a small River.

Dunwich, on the Sea-shore, was the first Bishops See of the East-Angles, for the Coun∣ty of Suffolk. Then a Town capable of that Dignity; now ruinous, decay'd, and for the greatest part worn into the Sea. However it do's still contain two Parish Churches. Fishing of Sprats in Winter, and of Herrings, Mackerels, Soles, and the like, in their pro∣per Seasons, is the chief Imployment of its Inhabitants, as it is with those of Albo∣rough.

Swold, or Sowold, a few miles more North∣ward, stands also by the Sea-side. Seated on a pleasant Cliff, the Sea on the East, the Har∣bour on the South, the River Blithe with a Draw-bridge on the West, and a small Neck of Land on the North. So that it is almost

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incompassed with Water, especially at every floud. And, besides the natural Situation of the Place, which renders it a Town of good strength, here are planted on the Cliff seve∣ral Pieces of Ordnance. Its Bay called Swolds Bay, so famous for Ships to ride in, is chiefly made by the Shooting forth of Easton Ness, a little North of it, which is the most Eastern Part of all England.

Lestoft is the most Northern Sea-Town of this County, and a good thriving Place. Its chief Trade consists in fishing for Cod in the North Sea, and at home for Herrings, for which it lies most conveniently over against the chief Herring-Beds.

Beckles and Bungay are both seated on the banks of the Waveney. The first has two Parish-Churches; and a Grammar-School, with ten Scholarships for Emanuel Colledge in Cambridge. Here the Womens Imploy is to knit Worsted Stockings, whilst at Diss in Norfolk on the other side of the River they imploy themselves in knitting of Silk ones.

Halesworth, Framlingham, and Eye, make a kind of Triangle. The first is a thriving Town for Retail Trade, dealing much in Linnen, Yarn and Sale Cloth.

Framlingham, a good large Town, is seated upon a Clay-hill, near the head of the River Ore. Defended by a spacious tall Castle of Saxon Work, well walled, and double ditched on one part, with a large Meer on the other part. This Castle had once no less than 13 high Towers; and was counted so strong, that Robert, the rebellious Earl of Leicester against King Henry the Second, took up his Quarters here. Its Inworks are now

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much defaced, there being only a large Dwelling-house, a Grammar-School-House, &c; but the Outworks are more like a Castle, than the Ruins of one.

Eye, a pretty large Market-Town, and an ancient Corporation, is situate in a watery Place. It shew's a fair Church, with the Ruins of a Castle, and of an ancient Bene∣dictine Abbey called S. Peter's. The Wo∣mens Imploy in this Town is making of Bone∣lace. This Corporation is a Peculiar of the Crown, an Honour of ancient Time, and has been given in Joynture with the Queens of England.

Buddesdale, some miles West of Eye, is but a little Borough-Town, seated (according to its Name) in a Dale. Here is a Grammar-School indowed, with certain Scholarships as∣signed to Bennet (or Corpus Christi Colledge) in Cambridge.

Hadleigh and Lavenham are both seated on the River Breton, and Bilston on a Rivulet that falls into it. The first a Town of great ac∣count formerly for its Clothing, has a fine Church, which is a great Ornament to it, and is a Peculiar of Canterbury. Of some note for the Martyrdom of Dr. Taylor, their some∣time famous Minister, who suffered here for his Religion.

But, whereas Hadleigh is seated in a Bot∣tom, Lavenham on the contrary stands on an Eminence. This also has a comely and spacious Church and Steeple, injoy's a pretty good Trade, and is something the more fre∣quented for its famous Lecture.

Bilston, or Bildeston, is noted for its Blues and Blankets. And the Women here either spin corded Wool for the Clothier, or white Work for the Packer.

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Neyland, Sudbury, Clare, and Haverill, are all four seated on the River Stower. The first, in a rich Bottom, is a good Country Town, noted for its Clothing, but chiefly for its Bays and Sayes, wherein the Inhabitants drive a Trade with London.

Sudbury is a good large Town, having a fair Bridge over the River Stower, which leads in∣to Essex. It contains 3 Parish Churches, and drives a good Trade of Cloathing; being chiefly noted for Says, as Colchester in Essex for Bays. Of some Note besides, for giving the Title of Baron to his Grace the Duke of Grafton.

Clare is a Town of more antiquity than beauty, having nothing to boast of but the Ruins of a Castle and Collegiate Church, but that it gave both Name and Title to that noble Family surnamed De Clare, who in their Times were Earls of Hartford, Clare, and Glo∣cester. The last of that Name was Gilbert de Clare, who died Anno 1295. He had a Sister and Coheir, Elizabeth by Name, the Wife of William de Burg, Earl of Ulster in Ireland, by whom she got a Daughter, their sole Heir. To this great Heiress Lionel, the third Son of King Edward III, was married, and upon his Marriage made Duke of Clarence, the Termi∣nation of the Title being only changed, not the Place denominating. And from this Change the second King of Arms is surnamed Claren∣cieux, as appertaining formerly to the Dukes of Clarence.

Besides this first Duke of Clarence, I can find but two more. Viz. Thomas, second Son to King Henry IV, Lord Admiral, who was slain in France; and George, Brother to King Ed. ward IV, Lord Constable.

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But, in the Year 1624, the first Title of Clare was revived in the person of John Holles, Lord Houghton, Created Earl of Clare by King James the first. To whom succeeded John Hol∣les, his eldest Son; then Gilbert Holles, the late Earl; and upon his Decease, the Right Ho∣nourable John Holles, the present Earl of Clare.

Haveril, on the edge of Suffolk, Essex, and Cambridgeshire, is a small and plain Market-Town not far from the Head of the Stow∣er, adjoyning to the Saffron Grounds. The principal Trade here is Fustians.

As for Newmarket, I refer you to Cambridge∣shire.

Mildenhall, a large and populous Market-Town, is seated on the Banks of a River that runs from East to West into the Ouse, al∣most over against Littleport in Cambridge∣shire. Here is a fair Church, with a very tall Steeple. And its Market does chiefly abound with Fish and wild Fowl from the Fens. Spin∣ning is here the principal Imployment of the poorer sort of Women.

Iksworth is but a small Market-Town, which (according to Cambden) retains in its Name the Memory of the Iceni, who partly dwelt in this County. In this Town are yet some Remains of an ancient Priory, founded by Gil∣bert Blunt, Lord of the Town; as also of a Guild-Hall, where (not many years since) has been digged up a Pot of Roman Coyn, bear∣ing Inscriptions of divers Roman Emperours.

But, besides the foresaid Market-Tows, there are other Towns in Suffolk, which upon some account or other do deserve a place here.

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Exning, or Ixning, among others, not far from Newmarket, has at least as much right as Iksworth to claim its Name from the anci∣ent Iceni. This is the Place which gave Birth to St. Audry, the Virgin Daughter of Anna, King of the East-Angles; who, for her holy Life and Works of Piety, was Canonized for a Saint. From this Town to Ely, Henry Bishop of Ely made a Causey or high Way.

Brandon, seated upon the little Ouse, over which it has a Bridge, was once a Market-Town, but has lost that Conveniency. How∣ever 'tis of some note for giving the Title of Baron to the Earl of Maclesfield. And, not far from it, is a noted Ferry, called from hence the Brandon Ferry, where Things come up from the Isle of Ely.

Euston, some miles from Brandon to the Eastward, is also situate on the Banks of the little Ouse, and that hard by Fackenham. This indeed is but a small Place, but (as an Author describes it) finely seated on a Flat, in a fair Champain Country, for pleasure and delight. Which induced the late Earl of Ar∣lington to raise a noble Structure there, called Euston-Hall, of extraordinary Beauty. Adjoyn∣ing to which is a large Nursery, containing 1560. Fruit-trees of several sorts; besides artificial Fountains, and a Canal which makes a plea∣sant noise as it falls into the River. There is also to be seen a Grove of near ten thousand Trees, a large Warren, and many other Cu∣riosities. The Particulars whereof I shall wave, to acquaint the Reader, that upon the Mar∣riage of the second Son of the Dutchess of Cleveland to the only Daughter of the Earl of Arlington, it pleased King Charles II. that

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he should receive Denomination from the no∣ble Seat aforesaid. Accordingly he was crea∣ted Baron of Sudbury, Viscount Ipswich, and Earl of Euston Anno 1672; and finally Duke of Grafton, in the Year 1675.

Offon, that is Offa's Town, King of Mer∣cia. Who, having treacherously murdered Ethelbert King of the East-Angles (to whose Court he came an invited Guest, Anno 793.) and thereupon usurped his Kingdom, erected here a small Castle on a Clay-hill. The Ruins of which are yet apparent, under the Name of Offton-Castle.

Rendlesham, situate on the River Deben, to∣wards Orford, is noted for being the Place where Redwald, the first Christian King of the East-Angles, kept his Court. Who, being af∣terward seduced by his Queen, permitted an Altar to be placed in the Church for her Heathenish Sacrifices to Devils, together with his Altar for the Worship of the true God.

Wickham, or Wickham-Market, North of Wood∣bridge, and upon the same River, is as big as many Market-Towns; though its Market be now lost, by reason of its Neighbourhood to Woodbridge. 'Tis a Stage-Town upon the Eastern London Road, and one of those where general and Spiritual Courts are held for the Arch-Deacon of Suffolk; to whom the Eastern Part of the County is assigned as the Western is to the Arch-Deacon o Sudbury. Here is a Spire-Steeple, which serves as a Sea-mark to Saylers off the Whi∣ting Sand by Orford.

Walderswick, a Sea-Town near Sowolds Bay, has a fine Church and Spire-Steeple, which shews it to have been a much better Town than it is at present.

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Blithborough, a poor decayed Town, not far West from Walderswick, is so called from the River Blithe, over which it has a Bridge. Here are still to be seen the Ruins of a Pri∣ory, founded by King Henry I; and the Goal for the Division of Beckles, as a Re∣membrance of the Session, formerly kept here. Of some note besides for being the Burial Place of Anna, a Christian King of the East-Angles, slain in the Field by Peuda the Mercian King. The Church is very handsom still, and that's the only Ornament of this Place.

So much for the Towns of Suffolk. What remains is to acquaint you, that this County (formerly a Part of the Kingdom of the East-Angles, and its Inhabitants part of the Iceni, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Norwich.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, fourteen Members of Parliament. Viz. Two out of each of these following Places, Ipswich, Dunwich, Orford, Alborough, Sudbury, Eye, St. Edmundsbury.

Of this County there have been Dukes, Marquesses, and Earls. And this last Title lives still in the person of the Right Honoura∣ble George Howard, the present Earl of Suffolk. Devolved to him from his Ancestor Thomas Lord Howard of Walden, created Earl of Suffolk by King James the I. in the Year 1603.

Surrey.

SƲRREY, an Inland County of no great extent, is bounded on the East by Kent; on the West, by Barkshire and Hampshire; North∣ward, by Middlesex, from which parted by the Thames; and Southward, by Sussex.

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Called Surrey, from its Situation on the South∣side of the River Thames; the Saxons calling that Rey, which we term a River, and so from Southrey came the Name of Surrey.

It contains in Length, from East to West, a∣bout 35 miles; in Breadth, from North to South, 25. The Whole divided into thir∣teen Hundreds, wherein 140 Parishes, and yet but 8 Market-Towns.

The Skirts of this County are very rich and fruitfull, especially towards the Thames, where it yields plenty both of Corn and Grass; but the middle Parts are somewhat hard and bar∣ren. From whence the People use to say, that their County was like a course piece of Cloth, with a fine List.

But what the middle Parts want in Riches they supply with Pleasures, as being famous for good Air, and well stored with Parks; the Downs affording excellent Opportunity as well for Horse-races as Hunting.

As for Rivers, besides the Thames aforesaid, here is none of any Note but the Wey which runs through Guildford, the Mole through Darking, and the Wandle whose Spring-head is at Croydon. All which empty themselves into the Thames, the first two near Hampton-Court, and the last near Richmond.

Guilford, the County-Town, bears from London South-West by West, and (by com∣mon Computation) is distant from it 25 miles, thus. From London to Kingston, 10 miles; from Kingston to Cobham, 7; and to Guilford, 8 more.

A Town no less pleasantly than commodi∣ously seated on the River Wey, which affords a good Advantage to the Inhabitants in the Conveyance of their Goods in Barges up to

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London, much facilitated by the several Land∣locks or Sluces on the said River. In old time it was the Royal Mansion of the English Saxon Kings, and then a Place of larger ex∣tent than now it is. Near the River stand the broken Walls of an old large Castle; and in the midst of the Town is a Church, the West-end whereof made of arched Work, and imbowed over Head, seems to be very ancient. In short, the Town is beautifull, well frequented, and full of fair Inns. It con∣tains 3 Parish Churches; and its Market, which is on Saturdays, iis well served with Corn, and other Provisions.

As for honourary Titles, the first that had any from hence was Elizabeth, Viscountels of Kynelmalky in Ireland, Created Countess of Guilford during life by Charles II. Anno 1660. Then in the Year 1671. the same King con∣ferred the Title of Earl of Guilford upon John Maitland, the late Duke of Lauderdale in Scotland. And after them Francis North, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, was advanced to the Peerage, by being made Lord Guil∣ford.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Southwark, Sat.
  • Kingston, Sat.
  • Croydon, Sat.
  • Reygate, Tue.
  • Darking, Thu.
  • Farnham, Thu.
  • ...Ewel.

Southwark, commonly pronounced Suthrick, stands opposite to the City of London on the Banks of the Thames. A Place which, for number of Buildings and Inhabitants, goes beyond most of the Cities in England. But,

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for its Streets and Buildings, they are but ordinary, except the broad Street which leads from the Bridge to St. George's Church. A Street beautified with fair Buildings, raised from the Ashes of frequent Conflagrations this Place has been afflicted with. And here the Inhabitants drive a considerable Trade with the whole County, this being the most convenient Place for the Surrey Carriers that come up; for whose Accommodation here is Multitude of Inns. The principal Church here is that of St. Mary over Rey, formerly a Prio∣ry of the B. Virgin; Next to which is St. George's Church. Here is also a famous Hos∣pital, called St. Thomas's Hospital, founded by the Citizens of London, for the Relief of impotent Persons. The King's Bench and the Marshalsea are two other noted Places, and but too well known to many. To which add the Bear-Garden, where Prizes are fought, and the common People diverted with the Fighting of Dogs with Bears and Bulls. In short, though this Place be counted Part of London, and under the Lord Mayor's Juris∣diction; yet it does still injoy several of its ancient Priviledges peculiar to it self, as hold∣ing of Courts within themselves, and electing of Members of Parliament, &c. And, because it lies in Surrey, as London does in Middle∣sex, I thought it not improper to bring i into this List.

Kingston is situate ten Miles South-West from London, on the Banks of the Thames, over which it has a Bridge leading into Mid∣dlesex. A Town heretofore famous for the Coronation of the Monarchs of the English Saxons, whence it had the Name of Kingston, or Kings Town, whereas before it went by the

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Name of Moreford. And, for Distinctions∣sake 'tis called Kingston upon the Thames, to difference it from Kingston upon Hull in Yorkshire. A Place in former times well known for its Castle, belonging to the Clares, Earls of Glocester. And, as for its present State, 'tis yet a goodly Town, well accommo∣dated with Inns for the Reception of Strangers, and of late something advantaged by the King's Residence in Summer at Hampton-Court in its Neighbourhood, as it is by the County-Assizes which are frequently held here.

Croydon is a long Town ten miles South from London. Seated near the Spring-head of the Wan∣dle, which falls into the Thames at Wands∣worth; and in a manner begirt with Hills well cloathed with Wood, affording good Game to the Hunter, and furnishing London with great store of Charcoal. This Town has but few good Buildings, the Houses in it being for the most part but mean and or∣dinary. But it has the advantage of being graced with a fine large Church, set out with a lofty Steeple, and with a Summer-Pal∣lace of the Lord Archbishop of Canterbury, Accommodated besides with an Hospital for the Relief of the Poor, and a Free School for the Education of Youth. From this Town to Farnham runs the Downs, called Banstead Downs, so noted for Hawking, Hunting, and Horse-racing. And near the Town is a Bourn, or Stream, the Rising whereof has been some∣times observed to have been a Fore runner of some publick Calamity.

Reygate, a good large Town, is seated in the Vale called Holmes Dale, and is now of chief note for the great plenty of excellent Fullers Earth which is digged up in its Neighbour∣hood.

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Here is an ancient, but ruinated Ca∣stle; with a long Vault under Ground, and a large Room at the end of it, where (if the Story be true) the Barons met in Coun∣cil in their War against King John. Near this Town several Battels have been fought against the Danes, which proved fatal to them.

Darking is situate on a Branch of the Ri∣ver Mole. Where, at the foot of White-Hill (on which grow plenty of Box-trees) the said River runs under Ground for above a Mile, and rises again near Norbury. The Place where it falls in is therefore called the Swallow.

Farnham seems to take its Name from the great Store of Fern that grows in its Neigh∣bourhood. It ly's on the edge of Surrey to∣wards Hampshire, watered by the River Wey, and graced with an Episcopal Seat, the usual Residence of the Bishops of Win∣chester. Here King Alfred, with a small Pow∣er, had the good fortune to overcome the Danes, of whom he made a great slaugh∣ter.

As for Ewel, all I have to say is, that it is but very mean and inconsiderable.

Other Places of Note in this County.

Richmond, among the rest, deserves the pre∣cedency. A fair, large, and well built Town, seat∣upon an easy ascent, on the Banks of the Thames; Whose pleasant and healthfull Situ∣ation has invited so many of the Gentry to be its Inhabitants. Here King Henry VII. built a stately Pallace, which (with Nonsuch and Otelands, two other oyal Pallaces in

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this County) has felt the sad effects of the Civil Wars in the Reign of Charles I. Here died several of the dearest Princes that ever England had Viz. King Edward III, the Conquerour of France; the beautifull Ann, Wife to King Richard the Second, and Daughter to the Emperour Charles the fourth; the most wise Prince, Henry the Seventh; and the Wonder of her Sex, the famous Queen Elizabeth.

Lambeth. situate opposite to Westminster, is a large Parish, of chief note for being the Residence of the Lord Archbishop of Canter∣bury, where he has a fine Pallace. And, though, it is counted unwholsom to live in, yet it is well inhabited; and the Skirts of it graced with many Gentlemens and Citizens Houses. Here Canute, the last Danish King, ended his Days among his Cups.

From Lambeth Westward, you will find a∣long the River Battersea, Putney, Moreclack, three goodly Towns; and, at some distance from the River, Newington, Clapham, and Wandes∣worth. This last on the River Wandle, which drives several Mills, imploy'd by Londoners; and of late much improved by the French Protestants that have resorted thither.

Further in the Country you'l find Stretham a sweet Place, Micham four miles West of Croydon, Cheame, and near it Nonsuch. This a Royal Pallace, so delightfully seated a∣mong Parks, and built with so much Magni∣ficence and such rare Workmanship by King Henry the eighth, with delicate Gardens, Or∣chards and Groves, that (as Speed says) no County had none such as Nonsuch it self.

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Not far from Nonsuch is Epsham, very plea∣santly seated, and much resorted unto in Summer by the Gentry and Citizens of Lon∣don, for drinking its medicinal Waters.

Here is also a Place called Effingham, which gives the Title of Baron to the Right Honou∣rable Charles Howard, Baron Effingham; de∣volved to him some Years since, upon the De∣cease of Charles Howard Earl of Nottingham, and Baron Effingham.

Blechingly, Gatton, and Haselmere are 3 anci∣ent Borough-Towns, which have the Election of Parliament-Men. Now but small and in∣considerable, but formerly of good note; espe∣cially Gatton, where Roman Coyns have often been digged up. Haselmere stands on the edge of the County, towards Hampshire.

Chertsey, not far from the Thames, over which it has a Bridge, is a Town of good antiquity. Here King Henry the Sixth being deposed and made away in the Tower of Lon∣don, was Interred without funeral Pomp; but, for his holy Life being reputed a Saint, was afterwards Intombed at Windsor in Bark∣shire.

At Ockly King Ethelwolf, Son to King Egbert, fought a successfull Battel against the Danes. And if Merton be famous for any thing, 'tis for the Statute of Merton, here inacted, in the Reign of King Henry the Third.

Lastly, this County (which with Sussex made the Kingdom of the South-Saxons, and whose Inhabitants went under the Name of Regni among the ancient Romans) is now in the Diocese of Winchester.

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Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, no less than 12 Mem∣bers to sit in Parliament. Viz. two out of each of these following Towns, Guilford, Southwark, Reygate, Blechingly, Gatton, and Ha∣selmere.

The same has been, for above 600 Years, dignify'd with the several Titles of Duke and Earl. The last of which has belonged to the Dukes of Norfolk above 200 Years.

Sussex.

SƲSSEX, a Maritime County, is bound∣ed Eastward with Kent; Westward, with Hamp∣shire; Northward, with Surrey, and part of Kent; Southward, with the Sea called the Chan∣el.

It contains in Length, from East to West, about 55 miles; in Breadth, from North to South 20. The Whole divided into six Rapes, called from their respective chief Places Chi∣chester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey, and Hestings Rapes. All which, one with another, contain 65 Hundreds, wherein 312 Parishes, and 16 Market-Towns.

Here the Air is counted generally good, though subject to Mists and Vapours arising from the Sea.

The Soil is rich, and such as yields plenty of all Things necessary. The North Parts, towards Kent and Surrey, are well shaded with Woods, as was all the Country heretofore, till the Iron-Works consumed them. The Southern Parts, towards the Sea, lying upon a Chalk or Marl, yield Corn abundantly; with a delightful Intermixture of Groves and Mea∣dows.

Where the Land is low, as it is in that Part called the Weld, the Ways are so deep

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in Winter, that then it is exceeding bad Travelling. But that Part called the Downs is very pleasant and easy to Travel∣lers.

One would think, that in so large an Ex∣tent of Sea-Coast there should be many a good Harbour. Whereas 'tis very thin of 'em; and such as it has are, by reason of its Shelves and Boks, both dangerous for entrance and uncertain for continuance.

Here are several good Rivers, (among which Arun is the principal) that make the Country both pleasant and fruitfull, and supply it, as the Sea do's for its part, with abundance of Fish.

And, among Fowl, here's abundance of Wheat-ears, a small Bird about the bigness of a Lark. Which being in the prime, when Wheat is ripe, exceeds all others for fatness and daintiness. Fast-bourn, near the Sea, is the noted Place, where they catch plenty of these Birds.

Chichester, the chief Place of this County, and that which gives Name to one of the six Rapes, is (by common Computation) 50 miles distant from London, and bears from it South-West and by South. The Way to it is through Guilford 25 miles, as you may see in Surrey; from Guilford to Godalmin, 3; thence to echford Bridge, 11; and to Chichester 11 more.

This City (for it is a Bishops See) is seated in a Plain, on the Banks of the Levant, which incompasses the South and West Parts, and at a small distance discharges it self into the Sea. First built by Cissa, the second King of the South-Saxons, where he had his Royal Pallace. It contains at this time five

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or six Parish Churches, besides its Cathedral. Its Buildings are indifferent; but it has four spacious Streets, with a fine Market-Place of Stone, and supported round about with Pillars. The Cathedral is of a circular form, and graced with a stately Spire, built of Stone. Twice it was almost consumed by a raging fire, since it was first built by Radulph, the third Bishop here; but was afterwards re∣built and beautify'd by Seffid the second Bi∣shop of that Name. In short, this City in∣joy's a pretty good Trade; which might be better, were not the Haven near unto it choak∣ed up. Here are two Markets weekly, kept on Wednesdays and Saturdays, well served with Corn, Flesh, Fish, and Fowl, and generally all sorts of Provisions.

Nigh unto this City is the Peninsule, com∣monly called Selsey Isle, of chief note at pre∣sent for the excellent Cockles and Lobsters it yields in great plenty. But in former times far more considerable, when it was an Epis∣copal See, before Bishop Stigand removed it to Chichester in the year 107.

Over against the West of this Peninsule lies a small Island, called Thorney Isle, from a small Town of that Name in it.

The other Market-Towns, besides Chichester, are

  • Horsham, Sat.
  • Lewes, Sat.
  • Shoreham, Sat.
  • Ptworth, Wedn.
  • Steyning, Wedn.
  • Storington, Wedn.
  • Rye, Wed. & Sat.
  • Arundel, Wed. & Sat.
  • Hastings Wed. & Sat.
  • Battel, Thu.
  • Bright Helmiston Thu.
  • East-Greenstead, Thu.
  • Midhurst, Thu.
  • Cuxfield, Frid.

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Besides Winchelsey and Tarring, whose Market Days I am ignorant of.

Among which Midhurst is in Chichester Rape; Petworth, and Storington, in Arundel; Horsham, Stening, Shoreham, and Tarring, in Bram∣ber Rape; Cuxfield, Bright Helmiston, in Lewes Rape; East-Greenstead, and East-bourn, in Pevensey's; Rye, and Battel, in Hastings Rape.

Rye, Winchelsey, Hastings, Bright Helmiston, and New Shoram stand by the Sea-side, Battel, Lewes, Stening, Tarring, and Arundel, at some distance from it; Petworth, more Northward; Horsham and East-Greenstead, the furthest of all from the Sea, and nearest to Surrey.

Lewes, among all these, is the most con∣fiderable, and is therefore the Place where the Assizes are commonly kept. Seated it is on an Eminence, and on the Banks of a goodly River; well inhabited by Gentry and Trades∣men, and containing six Parish Churches. At the River's Mouth is New-Haven, some Years since made a pretty secure Harbour for Ships.

Horsham, a large Borough-Town, is situate near S. Leonards Forest. Its Market is good for all sorts of Provisions, but Fowl espe∣cially, most of which is bought up by the Lon∣don Hagglers.

East-Greenstead, near Surrey, and not far from Ashdown Forest, is a goodly Town, graced with a fair Church, and the Place where the Assizes are sometimes kept. Called East-Green∣stead, in opposition to another lying West-South-West from it, and therefore called West-Greenstead.

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Petworth, but a small Town, is finely seated near two Parks, and not far from the River Arun. Of chief note for its noble House, for∣merly belonging to the Earls of Northum∣berland, and now by Marriage to the Duke of Somerset.

Arundel stands in a Dale (or Valley) on the Western Banks of the River Arun, from whence it is called Arundel, by contraction from Arundale. Over the River it has a Wooden Bridge, and from the Sea 'tis but a small distance. This is an ancient Town, no∣ted for its Castle, once of great fame and strength; but far more famous for the Lords and Earls thereof, than either for its strength or beauty. A Place in this far different from the rest of England, the Title of Earl of Arundel being annexed to the Castle and its Lordship, and going along with the pos∣session of it. Witness the Judgment given in that great Controversy between Sr. John Fiz-Allen, being in possession of the Castle, against John Mowbray Duke of Norfolk, be∣ing the right Heir in the nearest degree. Thus it passed through several hands, viz. the Montgomery's, the Albeneys, and the Fitz-Allens, till Anno 1604 both Castle and Title came to the possession of Thomas-Howard, Earl of Arundel and Surrey, and Earl Marshal of England. From whom is descended in a right Line the present Duke of Norfolk, Earl of Arundel, &c.

Rye, a Member of the Cinque-Ports, stands on the edge of the County towards Kent, and at the very fall of the Rother into the Sea, where it has a commodious Haven. 'Tis not a Town of any beauty. But, as it stands con∣venient for a ready Passage over Sea to Nor∣mandy,

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and particularly to Diepe, it is upon that account much frequented in Time of Peace. Its Inhabitants are for the most part Fishermen, who fish here ex∣cellent Herrings.

Winchelsey stands near the Place where stood another of that Name, which in the Year 1250, was swallowed up by the raging Sea; being a large, strong, and beautiful Place, in which were numbered 18 Parish Churches. Whereas the present Winchelsey consists but of one Parish, and that going still to decay, insomuch that its Markets are in a manner disused. 'Tis seated upon an Inlet of the Sea, in the Neighbourhood of Rye. But its Haven long since so choakt up, that the Town suffers much by it, Rye having got the advantage of it. However it is still a Mem∣ber of the Cinque-Ports; and what it lost in Wealth it has got in Honour, being ad∣vanced to the Reputation of an Earldom, first in the person of — Finch, Vis∣count Maidstone, created Earl of Winchelsey by King Charles I, Anno 1628. The Title from him devolved to his Son Thomas, after him to Heneage the late Earl; and lately to his Son and Heir, the Right Honourable Thomas Finch, the present Earl of Winchelsey.

Battel is seated in a dirty part of the Country, some miles West from Winchelsey. A noted Place for the Battel fought here Oct. 14. 1066. betwixt King Harold II. and William the Conquerour; where Harold lost his Life, and William obtained the Crown of England. After which the Conquerour built an Abbey here, called Battel-Abbey.

Hastings, one of the Cinque-Ports, is a Town of good note and antiquity. It has

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two Streets, extending from North to South; and in each Street, a Parish-Church. Its Ha∣ven is fed by a small River, and had once for its Defence a strong Castle seated on a Hill; which, as ruinous as it is, serves in the Night as a Direction to Sailers, by the Lights that are there placed.

But, besides the said Market-Towns, which are the most considerable, Pevensey and Bramber ought to find a place here, as giving the Denomination to two of the six Rapes. The first (commonly pronounced, for shortness sake, Pensey) is the very Harbour, where William the Conquerour landed from Normandy, with 896 Ships, such as they were in those Times.

Buckhurst, a Town in the North-East Parts of this County, is of some Note, for gi∣ving the Title of Earon to the Earl of Dor∣set.

To conclude, this County (now being in the Diocese of Chichester) made up with Surrey the Kingdom of the South-Saxons, and its In∣habitants were part of the Regni, as the Ro∣mans called them.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 24 Members of Parlia∣ment. Viz. two out of each of these follow∣ing Towns, Chichester, Horsham, Midhurst, Lewes, New Shoreham, Bramber, Skeyning, East-Greenstead, Arundel; besides these three Cinque-Port Towns, Hastings, Winchelsey, and Sea∣ford.

As for honourary Titles, it has been for several Ages dignify'd with that of an Earl∣dom, 1. in the House of Albeneys, 2. in two Plantagenets, 3. in six Ratcliffs, 4. in two Savils; and now in the Right Honourable Thomas

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Leonard, who upon his Marriage with Anne Fils-Roy, eldest Daughter to the Dutchess of Cleveland, was by King Charles II. created Earl of Sussex Anno 1674.

CHAP. XVI.

Of Warwickshire, Westmorland, and Wiltshire.

Warwick∣shire.

WARWICKSHIRE, an Inland County, is bounded on the East by the Counties of Leicester and Northampton; on the West, by Worcestershire; on the North, by Staffordshire; on the South, by the Counties of Oxford, Glocester, and Worcester.

Its Length, from North to South, is some∣thing less than 40 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, about 30. The Whole divided into sive Hundreds, wherein 158 Parishes, and 15 Market-Towns.

Here both the Air is wholsom, and the Soil rich, especially the South Parts of it, called Feldon. Which affords rich Meadows, feeds store of Sheep and Cattle, and is exceeding grateful to the Husbandman in its Crops of Corn. The North Parts, formerly called Arden, and since Woodland, from its great plenty of Woods (though at this time much wasted by reason of its Iron Mines) are not altogether so∣fruitful as the Southern Parts.

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It is generally well watered with fresh Streams; the principal of which is the Avon, which with many windings and turnings runneth through the Country, and falls at last into the Severn.

Warwick, the Shire-Town, from whence the County took its Name, bears from London North-West, and is distant therefrom 70 miles, thus. From London to Buckingham 44 miles, as you may see in Buckingham∣shire; from thence to Banbury, 10; to Kyne∣on, 8 more; and to Warwick, 8 more.

'Tis seated on the Banks of the River Avon, over which it has a well compact Stone-Bridge. A Town adorned with very fair Houses, spacious and well ordered Streets, with a fine Market-house of free-Stone, sustained by seve∣ral Pillars. It contains two fair Parish-Churches, of which S. Maries is the chief. Here is also, for the Education of Youth, a free School; and, for decay'd Gentlemen, a well indowed Hospital. But the chief Beauty of it, as heretofore so now, is a most stately and magnificent Castle, the Seat of Sir Fulk Grevill, the late Lord Brooks, by whom it was repaired at his great cost and charges. In short, this Town injoy's a good Trade, chiefly for Mault; and the rather as being the Place where the Assizes and general Ses∣sions for the County are kept. Its Market, which is kept on Saturdays, is great, and well furnished with all sorts of Provisi∣ons.

But that which has added the most Lustre to this Town is the honourary Titles where∣with it has been dignify'd for several Ages. Of Earl, first in the person of Henry de New∣burg, Created Earl of Warwick by Wisliam

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the Conquerour, Anno 1076; and continued in five more of his name, viz. Roger, Wil∣liam, Waleran, Henry, and Thomas de Newburg. From whom it passed through several Fami∣lies, either by Marriage or Bloud allied to the former. Till at last the Title of Earl was by King Henry VI, turned into that of Duke in the person of Henry Beauchamp, who was made and crowned King of the Isles of Wight, Jersey, and Garnsey, and soon after created Duke of Warwick.

'Tis true the Title of Duke went no fur∣ther, and that of Earl was renewed in the person of Richard Nevil, who married Ann the Duke's Sister. From him it went to George, Duke of Clarence, who married Ann Daughter of Richard Nevil; and from George, to Edward Plantagenet, his Son. From these it came to two Dud eys successively, to wit John and Ambrose, descended from the Lady Margaret, Daughter of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. And in the Year 1618. King James I. conferred it upon Robert, Lord Rich of Leeze; in whose Line it con∣tinued, till Charles his great Grandson died without Issue. Upon whose Death, Robert Rich Earl of Holland, his Cousin german, succeeded in the Earldom of Warwick, and so injoy'd both Titles. Which fell by his Death to his Son, the Right Honourable Edward Rich, the present Earl of War∣wick.

Near Warwick is a Cliff, most delectably seated among Groves and fresh Streams; and called Guy-Cliff, from the Hercules of England, Guy of Warwick. Who, having left off his noble and valiant Exploits, betook himself (as the Story say's) to this Place, where he

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led a kind of Hermetical Life, and built a Chappel wherein he was interred.

But, though Warwick be the County-Town, and a considerable Place upon other accounts; yet here is another of greater im∣portance, which therefore doth deserve a par∣ticular Description in this place, before we proceed to the List of the Market-Towns. And that is

Coventry, a City so called from an old Con∣vent (or Monastery) founded by King Ca∣nute. It stands upon a small Stream, called Sherborn, which joyning with another Stream runs not far from thence into the River Avon. 'Tis a fair, neat, and large City; beautify'd with handsom Houses, and spacious Streets, besides a Cross of curious Workmanship, and its two Churches of St. Michael and of the Holy Trinity that are loftily built. It was formerly begirt with a fine Wall, with 13 Gates giving entrance into the City; and what with the Convent and the translating the See Episcopal from Lichsield hither it grew exceeding rich and wealthy. 'Tis true now it has neither Convent nor Epis∣copal See, more than in the Ruin and Title; and yet it does still continue its old Wealth, being the best City for Trade in all these Parts, and more than ordinarily frequented for an Inland Town. Among other its Ma∣nufactures, here are great quantiies of Cloths made and vended. And its Market for Pro∣visions is kept on Fridays.

It belonged once unto the Earls of Chester, and after wards by many Conveniances to John of Eltham Earl of Cornwal, whereby it be∣came annexed to that Earldom. Nor did it lose any thing, but rather gain much, by

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that Annexation; Henry the VI, laying un∣to it several adjacent Towns and Villages, and making it with them a County Corporate, clearly distinct from that of Warwick. Thus Coventry, though within the Confines of War∣wickshire, became exempted from its Juris∣diction. And, in the very first Year of the Reign of William the Conquerour, it was ho∣noured with the Title of an Earldom in the Person of Edwin a Saxon, with whom the Title died, and lay buried till the Reign of King James I, when George Villiers (the late Duke of Buckingham's Father) was created Duke of Buckingham, and Earl of Coventry, Anno 1623.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Shipton, Sat.
  • Rugby, Sat.
  • Tamworth, Sat.
  • Nun-Eaton, Sat.
  • Henley, Mun.
  • Southam, Mun.
  • Sutton Cofield, Mun.
  • Aulcester, Tue.
  • Kyneton, Tue.
  • Atherston, Tue.
  • Coleshill, Wedn.
  • Stratford, Thu.
  • Bromicham Thu.

Among which Stratford, seated upon the A∣von, is one of the prsncipal; it being a good Town, well inhabited, and driving a good Trade of Malt. It contains two Parish Chur∣ches, and has over the River a fair Stone∣bridge with several Arches.

Tamworth stands part in this County, and part in Staffordshire, where you will find it described.

Aulcester is seated on the Confluence of the Alne and the Arrow, and not far from their fall into the Avon; Shipton, on the Stower;

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Coleshill, on the Cole; Kyneton, on a small River that runs into the Avon; Rugby, upon the Avon; Nun-Eaton, and Atherston, near the Auker; Henley, on the Alne; and Bromicham, on the Rea. Among which Henley is called Henley in Arden, to distinguish it from Henley in Oxfordshire.

Bromicham is a large and well built Town, very populous, and much resorted unto; par∣ticularly noted, few years ago, for the coun∣terfeit Groats made here, and from hence dispersed all over the Kingdom. It drives a great Trade of Iron and Steel Wares, Saddles, and Bridles; which find good vent at London, Ireland, and other Parts.

But, besides those Market-Towns, there are three Places, Shughury, Lemington, and Menham Regis, of note for some particular Things. The first, for the Astroits, or Star-Stones, found about it. Lemington, for two Springs of Wa∣ter that issue out there within a stride of each other; but of different taste and ope∣ration, the one being fresh, and the other salt, though at a great distance from the Sea. Menham Regis, for a Spring, the Water where∣of looks and tasts like Milk. If drunk with Salt, it loosens; if with Sugar, it binds the Body. Said to be Sovereign against the Stone, good to cure green Wounds, Ulcers, and Im∣posthumes, and apt to turn Wood into Stone.

To conclude, this County (which formerly was part of the Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Lichsield.

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Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but four Members to sit in Parliament; Viz. 2 by Warwick, and 2 by Coventry.

Westmor∣land.

WESTMORLAND, one of the worst Counties in England, lies in the North-West; and is called Westmorland, as lying a∣mong Moors and Fells (or high Hills) for the most part unmanured.

'Tis bounded on the East with Yorkshire, and the Bishoprick of Darham; on the West and North, with Cumberland; and on the South, with Lancashire. Which last does so interfere with Westmorland, along the Sea-Coast, that this County has but one Corner to peep out upon the Sea; which is about the Place where the Ken falls into it.

It contains in Length, from North to South, about 35 miles; its Breadth, from East to West, about 25. The Whole divided into four Wards, called Kendale, Lensdale, East, and West Wards. Wherein are contained 26 Parishes, and 8 Market-Towns.

This County is very hilly, there being two several Ridges of high Hills, that cross the Country as far as Cumberland. However it has, especially in the Southern Parts, many fruitfull Valleys, with good Arable, Meadow, and Pasture-Grounds.

The Air, by reason those Hills and the Northern Situation of the Country, is very sharp and piercing, and not so subject to the Fogs as many other Counties. Whereby the People are very healthfull, free from strange and infectious Diseases, and commonly live to a great Age.

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As for Rivers, this County is very well watered. The principal of which are the Eden, the Can, or Ken, the Lon, and the Ea∣mon. The Can, of some note for its two Cataracts, or Water-falls, near Kendall, where the Waters descend with a great fall and noise. From which the Country-people have made this Observation, that when the North Water∣fall sounds clearer and louder than the other, 'tis a certain presage of fair Weather. But, when the other does so, they expect rainy Weather.

Here are also two noted Lakes, or Meers, the one called Ʋlles Water, and the other Winder (or Wimander) Meer; the first bordering both upon Cumberland and Westmorland, and the last upon this County and Lancashire, where you will find it described.

Kendall, or Candale, the Shire Town, from whence one of the Wards (or Divisions) has the Name of Kendall Ward, bears from Lon∣don North-West and by North, and is distant therefrom 201 miles, thus. From London to Lancaster, 181 miles, the particulars whereof you may see in Lancastire; and from Lancaster to Kendall, 14.

It is seated in a Dale, on the River Ken, whence it had the Name; built in the man∣ner of a Cross, two long and broad Streets thwarting one another, besides some by-Streets. The same is a rich, populous, and well-traded Town; especially for the making of woolen Cloth, Druggets, Serges, Hats, and worsted Stockings, whereby the poor people are im∣ployed, and the adjacent Parts inriched. Over the River it has two fair Stone-Bridges; besides another of Wood, which leads to the Ruins of a Castle, the Birth-place of Queen

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Catherine, the sixth Wife to King Henry VIII. Here is a fair and large Church, to which (as the Parish-Church) belong 12 Chappels of Ease. And by the Church-yard stands a Free-School, being a large Building, well in∣dowed with good Exhibitions for poor Scho∣lars, going from hence to Queens Colledge in Oxford. Here are also in this Town seven Companies, viz. the Mercers, Shearmen, Cordwainers, Tanners, Glovers, Taylors, and Pewterers, having their respective Halls for managing their Concerns. And, for Pro∣visions, here is a great Market, which is kept on Saturdays.

Lastly, this Town is an ancient Barony. Noted besides for giving the Title of an Earl to John Duke of Bedford, Regent of France; and to John de Foix, created Earl hereof by King Henry VI.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Appleby, Sat.
  • Burton, Tue.
  • Burgh, Wed.
  • Ambleside. Wed.
  • Orton, Wedn.
  • Kirby Lonsdale, Thu.
  • Kirby Stephens, Frid.
  • Fardondyke, —.

Among which Appleby, Kirby Stephens, Burgh, and Orton are in East Ward; Kirby Lonsdale, and Burton, in Lonsdale Ward; Ambleside, in Kendale Ward.

Appleby, the Abellaba of the ancient Ro∣mans, is memorable for its Antiquity. 'Tis pleasantly seated on the Banks of the River Eden, over which' it has a Stone-Bridge; and does chiefly consist of one broad Street, ri∣sing from North to South with an easy as∣cent. In the upper Part of it stands a Castle

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once of good Strength, in the nether end the Church, and not far from it a free School. In the East side of the Street leading to the Castle is an Amls-House (or Hospital) found∣ed and liberally indowed by the Lady Clifford. Where, about the Year 1652, she placed a deceased Minister's Wife, with her 12 Daugh∣ters, whereof eleven Widows, and the twelfth a maimed Maid. She also purchased Lands (which she settled upon Feoffees in Trust) for the Repairing of the Church then very ruinous, the School-House, the Moot (or Town) Hall, and the Bridge, as Occasion re∣quired. In this Town the Assizes and Bessions are usually held.

Kirby Lonsdale, that is, the Church-Town in Lonsdale, is seated on the Banks of the Ri∣ver Lon, in the pleasant and rich Vale of Lons∣dale, towards Lancashire. A large, and well∣built Town, well inhabited and resorted unto, being the greatest Town in the County, ex∣cept Kendale. Beautified with a fair Church, and a large Stone-Bride, and driving a good Trade for Cloth. This Place gives Name to one of the four Divisions of the County, from hence called Lonsdale Ward, of some note besides, for the many deep and hollow Caves near it.

Kirby Stephens, a goodly Town, is seated in East ward, near the Skirts of the Hills which sever this County from Yorkshire. Beautified with a fair Church, and much improved by the Trade of making Stockings. Near this Town is Wharton-Hall, a Seat belonging to the Lord Wharton.

Burton, an indifferent Town, stands in a Valley, near the great Hill called Farleton-Knot-Hill. And Orton, among the Heaths, is so

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destitute of Wood, that the people say, they han't so much as a Stick to hang a Dog on.

I pass by the other Towns, as inconside∣rable, to take notice of the Stone-Cross upon Stainmore-Hill, a Hill so called for its being exceeding stony, Stain in the North being the Word used for a Stone. The Cross said to be erected upon a Peace concluded between William the Conquerour and Malcolm King of Scotland, with the Arms of the King of En∣gland on the South-side, and those of the King of Scotland on the North-side. Which served for a Boundary, as the Case stood then, be∣twixt the two Kingdoms.

In the North-West Parts, at the joyning of the River Eamont with the Lowther, is Whin∣feld Forest, and hard by it, Brougham-Castle, which by the Coyns &c. that have been there digged up seems to have been a Place of good account in the time of the Romans.

By the High-Way side, leading between Lowther and Eamont Bridges, is a large Circle of Ground with a fair Plain in the midst. Which the Country-people give out to be the Place made use of by the Knight of the Round Table for their Tilts and Turnaments, there being two opposite Passes to make their Approaches in. And accord∣ingly they call it King Arthur's Table.

At Shap, a great Parish, stood the only Abbey in this County, founded by Thomas Son of Jospatrick, in the Reign of Henry I and seated near the River Lowther. Not far from which is a Well, or Fountain, which (Euripus-like) ebbs and flow's many tim; in a day.

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In the same Place are Stones like Pyra∣mids, some of them 9 foot high and 14 thick, pitched directly in a Row for a mile to∣gether, and placed at equal distances from each other.

On the Banks of the Lowther is Lowther-Hall, the Seat of Sir John Lowther Baronet. Whose Family has there flourished so long a time, that they reckon 30 Descents lineally from Father to Son, and the greatest part of 'em Knights. Neither do's the House only carry the Name of the Family, but also the Park belonging to it, the Parish, and (which is remarkable) the very River, with the Bridge over it.

To conclude, this County (formerly a Part of the Kingdom of the Northumbers, and its Inhabitants part of the Brigantes, as the Ro∣mans called them) stands now divided betwixt the Dioceses of Chester and Carlisle.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, but two Members of Parlia∣ment, and Appleby has the Right of Electi∣on.

As for honourary Titles, this County be∣gan to be dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom in the Reign of Richard II. By whom Ralph Nevil, Lord of Raby, and Earl Marshal, was created Earl of Westmorland, Anno 1398. Which Title continued in his Family almost 200 years, till it failed by the Death of Charles Nevil, in the Year 1584. But it was revived by King James I. in the person of Francis Fane, eldest Son of Mary, descended from the said Nevils; who was treated Earl of Westmorland, and Baron of Burghersh, Anno 1624. From whom it passed to Mildway-Fane, and from him to the Riht

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Honourable Charles Fane, the present Earl of Westmorland.

Wilishire.

WILTSHIRE, an Inland County, is bounded on the East with Barkshire and Hamp∣shire; on the West, with Somersetshire; North∣ward, by Glocestershire; and Southward, by Dorsetshire.

Called Wiltshire from Wilton, once the chief Town of it; as this is from the River Willy, upon which it is seated.

It contains in Length, from North to South, at least 40 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, 30. The Whole divided into 29 Hun∣dreds, wherein 304 Parishes, and 23 Market-Towns.

A Country not only pleasant and delight∣som, but withall very plentifull. Its Northern Part, called North Wiltshire, has very pleasant Hills, and well cloathed with Woods. The Southern Parts are more even, and yield plenty both of Grass and Corn. But the Middle Parts, called the Plains, are most scant of Corn. Yet as they are wonderfull large and spacious, reaching round about to the Horizon, they feed such innumerable Flocks of Sheep, that the Inhabitants find a much profit by their Fleece, and the gainful Trade of Cloathing, as others do by their more fertile Grounds.

As for Rivers, here is the Isis, which with the Tame makes up the Thames. The Kennet which runs Westward from this County through Barkshire into the Thames. The Avon (a Name common to many English Ri∣vers) which runs from North to South, and then bending its Course to the Westward fal into the Severn not far from Bristol. Ano∣ther

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Avon, which takes its Course Southward, and having washed Salisbury runs on through Hampshire, where it falls near Christchurch into the Sea. The Willy and the Nadder, which joyning together into one Stream at Wilton, near Salisbury, fall there into the Avon. Besides several lesser Streams, among which is the Deverill, which runs a mile under Ground.

Now, before I proceed any further in my usual Method, it will not be improper to take notice in this Place of two Remarkable Things in this County, viz. the Wansdike, and Stone-henge.

The first is a Dike running for many miles from West to East in the midst of this Shire, and which (according to the vulgar Opinion) was cast up by the Devil upon a Wednesday, from whence the Name of Wans∣dike. But, as Cambden observeth, it was ra∣ther made by the West-Saxons, for the di∣viding of their Kingdom from that of the Mercians; this being the Place where they usually fought, in order to stretch the Bounds of their Dominions.

Stone-henge, the greater Wonder of the two, and indeed the most admirable Rarity this Island affords, is a stupendious Piece of Work. It consists of huge Stones, standing upright in three Ranks round like a Crown, and laid overthwart one another; some of which are 28 foot high, and 7 broad. Now the Question is, how these Stones came hither. For the whole Country round for some miles hardly affords a Stone, either great or small; and these seem too vast to be brought hi∣ther by Wagon, Cart, or any other Arti∣fice. Cambden therefore is of Opinion, that

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they were made there by Art, of pure Sand and some unctuous Cement, the Ancients having had the Art of making Stone. Thus the Cesterns of Rome were made of Sand digged out of the Ground, which with the strongest kind of Lime wrought together be∣came so hard, that they seemed Stones.

Salisbury, the chief Place of this County, is reckoned 70 miles West-South-West from London, thus. From London to New Brent∣ford, 8 miles; thence to Stanes, 7; to Hart∣ley-row, 16 more; from thence to Basing∣stoke, 8; thence to Whitchurch, 10; to Ando∣ver, 6 more; and from Andover to Salisbury, 15.

This is the City otherwise called New Sarum, raised out of an old one known to the Romans by the Name of Sorbiodunum, which was drily seated on a great Eminence, being a Place only designed for Strength. Yet it was for some time honoured with an Epis∣copal See, and a fair Cathedral. As to the present City, 'tis pleasantly seated among se∣veral Rivers, whose Streams do commodi∣ously water most of the Streets; and almost incompassed with open Fields and Plains, which take their Name from it. In which Plains, about 6 miles distance, is to be seen the Stone-henge, as before described. In short, this City for fair Buildings is inferiour to none, and transcends all others for the benefit of Water, almost every Street having a River running through the midst thereof, among which the Avon is the principal. The Streets are large and spacious, accommodated with a fine Market-Place, and adorned with a fair Building, the Town-Hall. But the greatest Ornament of this City, and indeed one of

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the principal Ornaments of England, is the Cathedral, a most stately and magnificent Church. Which, being begun by Richard Poore Bishop of this See, and finished in the Year 1258. by Bridport, the third Bishop from him, was dedicated to the honour of the Blessed Virgin. This Church has 12 Gates, 52 Windows, and 365 Pillars great and small; the first answering to the Number of Months, the second to that of the Weeks, and the third to the Number of Days, in the Year. Its Steeple has a lofty Spire, which proudly shews it self from a great distance. And (which is remarkable) an Imperial Crown stood at the very top of all, which by a sudden Gust of Wind was thrown down to the Ground at the very time when the late King James was at Salisbury, in order to oppose the Prince of Orange's Forces coming this way from the West. Which two days after was followed by his Desertion of that Place, and soon after by the Desertion of the Crown and Government.

Moreover, this City has been for several Ages honoured with the Title of an Earldom, 1. in the persons of Patrick and William D'Ev∣reux, successively. 2. In two Williams surnamed Long-Espèe, the first a base Son of King Henry II. by Rosamond. 3. In two Nevils, both Richards by their Christen-names. 4. In the person of George, Duke of Clarence, who mar∣ried Isabel, Daughter of Richard, Earl of Warwick. 5. In Edward, eldest Son of King Richard III. 6. In Margaret, Daughter of George, Duke of Clarence, created Countess of Salisbury by King Henry VIII. And lastly in the Family that now injoy's it, the first be∣ing Robert Cecil, Lord of Essendine, and Vis∣count

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Cranborn, created Earl of Salisbury by King James I. Anno 1605. From whom is descended the present Earl, James Cecil.

Lastly, this City is a Place well inhabited and frequented, injoying a good Trade. And its Markets, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, are very considerable for all sorts of Provisi∣ons.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Marlborough, Sat.
  • Malmsbuy, Sat.
  • Chippenham, Sat.
  • Werminster, Sat.
  • Troubridge, Sat.
  • Cricklade, Sat.
  • Bradford, Mund.
  • Swindon, Mund.
  • Calne, Tue.
  • Auburn, Tue.
  • Lavington, Wedn.
  • Wilton, Wedn.
  • Highworth, Wedn.
  • Devizes, Thu.
  • Hindon, Thu.
  • Wooten-Basset, Thu.
  • Downton, Frid.
  • Amersbury, Frid.
  • Westbury, Frid.
  • ...Mere,
  • ...Marmister,

Among which Marlborough (or Marleburgh) is, next to Salisbury, the most considerable. Town in this County. The Town called an∣ciently Cunetio in Antonine's Itinerarium, as the River Kennet was upon which it stands; but by the Normans, in whose Time this Town revived out of the Ruins of the old, it was named Marleburgh, as being seated in a chalky Soil, which in some Places is still call∣ed by the name of Marl. A Town stretched out from East to West upon the ascent of a Hill, watered by the Kennet, not far from the head of it; and having the conveniency both of a Forest and Chase in its Neighbour∣hood, the first called Savernake-Forest, and the

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other Aldburn Chase. It had once a Castle belonging unto John, surnamed Sans Terre, who afterwards was King of England. The Castle still famous in our Law-Books for a Parliament there held in the Reign of King Henry III. in which were made the Statutes from hence called of Marleburgh, for the sup∣pressing of Tumults. But King Charles 1. at this Coronation made it yet more notable, in making it the Honour, as it was the Neigh∣bour, of James Lord Ley, Lord Treasurer, created by that King Earl of Marlbourough An∣no 1625. Which Title continued in three Persons more of his Name and Family; and, since the late Revolution, was conferred by our present King upon the Right Honourable John Churchill, the present Earl of Marlborough. This Town has suffered very much by the fre∣quent Misfortune of Fire, under which it groans to this day.

Near unto this Place is a Village called Rockley, from divers Stones like Rocks pitcht up on end. Among which there sometimes breaks forth a violent Stream of Water, call∣ed Hungersbourn by the Country-people, by whom 'tis reputed as the fore-runner of a Dearth.

Malmesbury, another good Town, stands in the North-West Parts of the County, plea∣santly seated on a Hill, near the Spring of the River Avon, over which it has six Bridges, being almost incircled with that River.

Chippenham and Bradford are also seated on the Avon; and Troubridge, near it; Amers∣bury, or Ambresbury, (commonly pronounced Ambsbury) on the other Avon, near the Stone-henge, and but 6 miles North of Salis∣bury.

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Upon which River, near the Con∣fines of Hampshire, you will find also the Town called Downton, or Duncton.

Calne is situate on a River so called, which runs from East to West into the Bristol Avon. This Town is noted for the Provin∣cial Synod held here in the Year 977, to determine the hot Disputes in those Times between the Monks and the Priests concern∣ing Celibacy. But, whilst they were debat∣ing the Matter in hand, the Convocation-house suddenly fell down; by which Fall several were slain, and many cruelly wounded.

Wilton is seated between two Rivers, the Willy Northward, and the Nadder Southward. From the first it took its Denomination, as the whole County from Wilton. Once the chief Town thereof, and a Bishops See, ho∣noured with the Residence of nine several Bishops. But by translating the See to Salisbu∣ry, and carrying thither withall the Thorough∣fare into the West-Country, which before was here, it fell by little and little to decay. So that it is at present but a mean Town. Yet still a Borough-Town, the Place where the Knights of the Shire are chosen, and where the Sheriff keeps his monthly County-Courts.

Werminster, of old Verlucio, a Town in for∣mer Time of very good account, is seated at the Springs of the River Willy, otherwise called Willybourn.

Westbury and Devizes are two Borough-Towns, that is, such Towns as fend Burgesses to Par∣liament. The first situate on the Broke, a small River that falls into the Avon; Devizes, at the very head of another Stream bearing the Name of the Town, which likewise do's emp∣ty it self into the Avon.

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I pass by the rest as Inconsiderable, to take notice of Clarendon; a fine spacious Park lying near to and Eastward of Salisbury. 'Tis seated upon a Hill, on which stand twenty Groves, severally inclosed, and each a mile in compass. Adorned in Times past with a Royal House, which in process of time is faln∣to ruin. But more remarkable for that in the Reign of Henry the Second, Anno 1164, here was made a certain Recognition and Re∣cord of the Customs and Liberties of the Kings of England before the Prelates and Peers of the Kingdom, for the avoiding Dis∣sentions between the Clergy, the Judges, and Barons of the R••••lm. Which Act was called The Constitutions of Clarendon, whereof so many as the Pope approved have been set down in the Tomes of the Councils, and the rest omitted. But that which has added more lustre to Clarendon is its being Dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom; first in the person of Edward Hyde, sometime Lord Chancellour of England, who was created Viscount Corn∣bury in Oxfordshire, and Earl of Clarendon by King Charles II, Anno 1661. Upon whose Death at Rouen in Normandy Dec. 19th, 1674, he was succeeded in his Title by his eldest Son Henry Hyde, the present Earl of Clarendon.

To conclude, this County (which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, and its Inhabitants part of the Belgae, as the Romans called them) is now in the Diocese of Salisbury.

Out of it are chosen, besides the two Knights of the Shire, no less than 32 Mem∣bers to fit in Parliament, Viz. two out of each of these following Towns, New Sarum

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or Salisbury, Wilton, Downton, Hindon, West∣bury, Heytesbury, Calne, the Devizes, Chippen. ham, Malmesbury, Cricklade, Great Bedwin, Lur∣gershal, Old Sarum, Wootton Basset, and Marl∣borough.

But we must not omit the famous Caves, that ly in the edge of this Shire, between Luckington and great Badminton. They are about nine in Number, all lying in a Row, but of different Dimensions. The Manner of them is two long Stones set upon the sides, and broad Stones on the top to cover them. The least of these Caves is 4 foot broad, and some of them 9 or 10 foot long. They are credibly thought, not 〈◊〉〈◊〉 be Gyants Caves, as the Country-people give it out, but ra∣ther the Tombs of some heroick Men a∣mong the ancient Romans, Saxons, or Danes. And that which makes it so much the more probable is, that Spurs, and pieces of Armour, &c. have been found there not long since by those who digged into them.

Lastly, this County has given the Title of an Earl to several Families; which now be∣longs to his Grace Charles Pawlet, Duke of Bolton, Marquess of Winchester, Earl of Wilt∣shire, and Baron S. John of Basing. All which Titles, except that of Duke, devolved to him from his Ancestor William Pawlet; Created Earl of Wiltshire, and afterward Marquess of Winchester, by King Edward VI. And that of Duke was lately conferred upon him by his present Majesty.

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CHAP. XVII.

Of Worcestershire, and Yorkshire.

Worcester∣shire.

WORCESTERSHIRE, an In∣land County, is bounded on the East by Warwickshire, and part of Glocestershire; on the West, by Hereford∣shire, and part of Shropshire; on the North, by Staffordshire; and on the South, by Glo∣cestershire.

It contains in Length, from North to South, about 35 miles; in Breadth, from East to West, about 25. The Whole divided into se∣ven Hundreds, wherein 152 Parishes, and 11 Market-Towns.

A County of an Air so temperate, and a Soil so fortunate, that it gives place to none about it, either for health or plenty. Abun∣dant certainly it is in all sorts of Fruits this Climate can afford, Pears and Cherries espe∣cially, insomuch that here is made abun∣dance of Perry. Here are also many Salt-pits, called Wiches, which yield excellent Salt, and such as for whiteness and hardness imitateth Loaf-Sugar.

'Tis true this County is pretty full of Hills, but such Hills as are not barren, yielding plen∣ty of Wood and store of Pasturage; whilst the Valleys on the other side feed abundance of Cattle, and bear good Crops of Corn.

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Through these Valleys run so many Rivers, that few Counties are better watered with fresh Streams. Here we meet again that noble River, the Severn, which runs quite through the Country from North to South, and affords here great store of fresh-Water Lampreys. Besides the Avon, the Team, the Salwarp, &c. which run into the Severn, and yield abundance of Fish.

Worcester, the chief Place hereof, and from whence the County is denominated, bears from London West-North-West, and is distant therefrom near upon 90 miles, thus. From London to Oxford 47 miles, as you may see afterwards in my Description of Oxford; from thence to Chipping-Norton, 12; and to Campden, 12 more; thence to Pershore, 10; and to Wor∣cester, 6 more.

Pleasantly seated on the East Bank of the Severn, over which it has a fair Stone-Bridge with a Tower upon it, and thence arising with a gentle ascent affords to the upper Parts a very goodly Prospect in the Vale beneath. A City every way considerable, for Situation, neat Buildings, Number of Churches, and Wealth of the Inhabitants, by reason of their Cloth-Trade which does here flourish very much.

This City called by Antonine and Pto∣lomy Branonium, and by the Romans Vigor∣nia, is said to have been first built by the Romans, the better to secure themselves from the Britains beyond the Severn. But in the time of King Canute, it suftered much from the Danes, and afterwards by frequent Con∣flagrations, which laid it almost waste, and despairing of a Recovery. Yet it rose at last out of its Ashes, and by degrees so impro∣ved as to contain at present nine Parish-Churches,

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besides the Cathedral. This is a stately Structure, in whose Quire are the Monuments of King John in white Marble, and of Arthur Prince of Wales, and Son to Henry VII. in blak Jeat. The Castle I shall say nothing of, as having nothing left of it but the Name and Ruins.

But Worcester is particularly memorable for the Battel fought there Sept. 3. 1651. be∣twixt the late King Charles and the Par∣liament Forces, wherein the King's Army was totally defeated. So that he was fain to shift for himself, and to wander six Weeks in Disguise about the Country, till he was at laft transported from a Creek near Sho∣ram in Sussex to Feccam near Havre de Grace in France.

Lastly, this City has a long time given the Title of Earl, and at last that of Marquess, to the Family of the Somersets, extracted by the Beauforts from John of Gaunt. For Charles Somerset, who was created Earl of Worcester by King Henry VIII, was base Son of Henry Beaufort, the 8th Duke of Somerset, beheaded in Edward the fourth's Reign.

Lastly this City keeps 3 Markets a Week, viz. Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

The other Market-Towns are

  • Bewdley, Sat.
  • Evesham, Mund.
  • Pershore, Tue.
  • Bromes-grove, Tue.
  • Tenbury, Tue.
  • Ʋpton, Thu.
  • Kidderminster, Thu.
  • Sturbridge, Frid.
  • Shipton, Frid.
  • Droitwich, Frid.

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Among which Bewdley and Ʋpton stand upon the Severn, the first in the North, the other in the South Parts of this County. Bewdley, near the Forest of Wire, was in former time a Place of great delight, and of good account in the Reign of Henry VII, where he built a retiring House for Prince Arthur, and called it Ticken-Hall. The Town at present is neat and well-built, and injoys a good Trade for Barley, Malt, Caps, and Leather. Ʋpton is also a well-built Town, and was of great account in the time of the Romans. Not far from which are the Malvern-Hills, and opposite to 'em Eastwards the Bredon-Hills.

Evesham (or Evesholm) and Pershore are both seated on the Avon, over which they have each a Bridge. The first esteemed the best Town in the County next to Worcester, containing two or three Parish-Churches, and driving a good Trade, of Stockings especially. The o∣ther a great Thorough-fare betwixt London and Worcester, but somewhat decayed in its Trade, since the Dissolution of its ancient Abbey.

Droitwich and Bromes-grove are both situate on the Banks of the Salwarp. The first no∣ted for its Salt-pits, and the last for its Clo∣thing Trade. Not far from Droitwich is Fakenham-Forest and Norton-Wood, which stand commodious for the Salt-Works, to supply them with Wood for the boyling the brine in their Coppers.

Sturbridge and Kidderminster, two goodly Towns stand both on the River Stow∣er, over which they have each a Bridge. The first is situate on a Flat, and has the accom∣modation of a Free-Shool, with a Library. Kidderminster is well inhabited, much traded unto for its Stuffs, and beautify'd with a very fair Church.

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As for Tenbury and Shipton, the first stands on the very edge of Shropshire, upon the Banks of the River Tent. And Shipton, up∣on Stower, in a slip of the County taken off from Warwickshire.

To conclude this Connty (now in the Dio∣cese of Worcester) was part of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia, and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii, in the Time of the Ro∣mans.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, seven Members of Par∣liament. Viz. 2 by Worcester, 2 by Droitwich, 2 by Evesham, 1. by Bewdley. And so much for Worcestershire.

Yorkshire.

YORKSHIRE, a Maritime County, and the greatest in the whole Kingdom, is bounded Eastward by the German Ocean; Westward, by Lancashire and Westmorland; Northward, by the said Ocean, and the Bishoprick of Durham, from which parted by the River Tees; and Southward, by Lincoln, Nottingham, and Derby Shires.

Its Length, from East to West, is 80 miles; its Breadth, from North to South, 70. The Whole divided first into three Parts, called Ridings, viz. the East, West, and North Ri∣ding. Which together contain 26 Wapentakes or Hundreds, wherein 563 Parish-Churches, and 49 Market-Towns. A small number of Pa∣rishes for such an Extent of Ground, but that there are great many Chappels of Ease, e∣qual for bignesss and resort of people to any Parish elsewhere.

The East-Riding (which is by much the least of the three) takes up only that part of Yorkshire which lies between the River Der∣went

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went and the Sea. The North-Riding takes up the North Parts as far as Westmorland. And the West-Riding, the largest of the three, is bounded on the North by the two former Ridings, on the South by the Counties of Derby, Nottingham, and Cheshire, Eastward by Lincolnshire, and Westward by Lanca∣shire.

The Soil is generally fruitfull, in a very good measure. And, (as says Speed,) if one Part thereof is stony and barren Ground, another is as fertile and richly adorned with Corn and Pasturage. If here you find it naked and destitute of Woods, in other Places you shall find it shadowed with most spacious Forests. If it be somewhere moorish, miry, and un∣pleasant, elsewhere it is as pleasant as the Eye can wish.

As for Rivers, here are many of good note. For, besides the Tees which parts this County from Durham, here you will find the Swale, the Youre, and the Nyd, of which the Ouse at York is a Compound. Besides the Warfe, the Are, the Calder, and Derwent, which from several Parts fall into the Ouse below York. To which add the Dun, which severs part of this County from Lincolnshire; and the Hull, which falls into the Humber at Hull. As for the Humber, which is the largest of all, it cannot be said properly to be a di∣stinct River, but rather a Compound, or a Mouth, of several Rivers joyning into one Stream, as I have already hinted in the be∣ginning of this Part.

York, (in Latin Eboracum) the chief Place of Yorkshire, bears from London North-by-West, and is distant therefrom 150 miles; thus. From London to Huntington, 48 miles,

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for the particulars of which I refer you to Huntingtonshire; from Huntington to Stamford, 21; to Grantham, 16 more; thence to New∣ark, 10; to Tuxford, 9 more; from Tuxford to Duncaster, 18; to Wentbridge, 7 more; thence to Tadcaster, 12; and to York, 9 more.

A City which, for fame and greatness, is the second City of England. It is in the North-Riding, situate on the River Ouse, which divides it into two Parts, but joyned toge∣ther by a stately Stone-Bridge. Of which two Parts, that towards the East is the most po∣pulous, the Houses standing thicker, and the Streets narrower. In general, 'tis a fair, large, and beautifull City, adorned with ma∣ny fair Buildings both publick and private, and inclosed with a strong Wall, with several Turrets upon it. A City rich and popu∣lous, well inhabited by Gentry and wealthy Tradesmen, and containing about 30 Parish-Churches and Chappels, besides its Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter. First built by Edwyn, the first Christian King of the Northumbers Anno 627, and finished by King Oswald his next Successor but one. But, being after∣wards destroyed by Fire, and by the fury of the Danes, that which now stands was ere∣cted in the place thereof by Archbishop Tho∣mas, the 25th of this See, and after by de∣grees adorned and beautify'd by his Successors. Of that magnificent Structure, which may just∣ly put her in the first Rank of the Cathe∣drals in Europe.

In short, the Romans of old had this City in such great esteem, that Severus their Emperour had his Palace here, where he ended his Days. Here also, upon the Death of Fl. Va∣lerius Constantius, surnamed Chlorus, his Son

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Constantine was forthwith proclaimed Empe∣rour. Nor did this City flourish only under the Romans, for it has been of as eminent Repu∣tation in all Ages since; and in the several Turns and Changes which have befallen this Kingdom, under the Saxons, Danes, and Nor∣mans, has still preserved its ancient Lustre. Adorned it was with an Archbishops See in the time of the Britains; nor stooped it low∣er when the Saxons imbraced the Gospel. Richard II, laying unto it a little Territory on the West-side thereof, made it a County Incorporate, as our Lawyers term it; in which the Archbishops of York injoy the Right of Palatines. It is governed, as Lon∣don, by a Lord Mayor, London and York being the only Cities whose Mayors bear the Title of Lord. But not so much famed by that, as by the Title of Duke it has given to divers Princes of the Royal Bloud; and par∣ticularly to the late King James, before he came to the Crown.

As for its Markets, it has two a Week, viz. on Thursdays and Saturdays.

The other Market-Towns are

  • 1. In the East-Riding,
    • Heydon, Sat.
    • Howden, Sat.
    • Burlington, Sat.
    • Pocklington, Sat.
    • Hull, Tue. and Sat.
    • Wighton, Wedn.
    • Beverley, Wedn. and Sat.
    • Kilham, Thu.

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  • 2. In the West-Riding.
    • Duncaster, Sat.
    • Sherburn, Sat.
    • Tickhill, Sat.
    • Bautrey, Sat.
    • Pontefract, Sat.
    • Boroughbridge, Sat.
    • Skipton, Sat.
    • Rotheram, Mund.
    • Selby, Mund.
    • Otley, Tue.
    • Settle, Tue.
    • Sheffield, Tue.
    • Leeds, Tue. and Sat.
    • Wakefield, Thu. & Frid.
    • Ripley, Frid.
    • Snathe, Frid.
    • ...Thorne,
    • Barnesley, Wedn.
    • Knaresborough, Wedn.
    • Hallifax, Thu.
    • Bradforth, Thu.
    • Tadcaster, Thu.
    • Weatherby, Thu.
    • Rippon, Thu.
  • 3. In the North-Riding,
    • Richmond, Sat.
    • Whitby, Sat.
    • Stokesly, Sat.
    • Malton, Sat.
    • Helmley, Sat.
    • Pickering, Mun.
    • Middleham, Mun.
    • Gisborough, Mun.
    • Thirsk, Mun.
    • Bedal, Tue.
    • Masham, Tue.
    • North-Allerton, Wed.
    • Abberforth, Wed.
    • Kirby-Moreside, Wed.
    • Scarborough, Thu.
    • Yarum, Thu.

In the East-Riding, the Town of chief note is Hull, otherwise called Kingston upon Hull, seated at the very fall of the Hull into the Humber. A Town of no great Anti∣quity, being first built by King Edward I;

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who called it Kingston, made an Harbour t it, and gave such Incouragements to its Inha∣bitants by the Priviledges he granted them that it grew up quickly to what it is. A large Town to this day, though containing but two Parish Churches; graced with fai Buildings, and well ordered Streets, with a Custom-house and Key by the Water-side. Here Ships come to lade and unlade their Merchandises, and in the next Street to it (not unlike Thames-street in London) they find all Necessaries for Shipping, such as Pitch, Tar, Cordage, Sails, &c. A Town so forti∣fied withall with Walls, Ditches, Forts, Block∣houses, and Castles, that with a suitable Garrison to it, it may be looked upon as one of the strongest Holds in the Kingdom, and the most capable of Defence. 'Tis a Bo∣rough-Town, and a County of it self; digni∣fy'd with the Title of an Earldom in the person of the Right Honourrble William Pier∣pont, the present Earl of Kingston upon Hull, Viscount Newark, &c.

From Hull there runs a Promontory, which shoots its self forth a great way into the Sea. A Promontory called by Ptolomy Ocellum, and by us Holderness, in which are divers Towns. Honoured with the Title of an Earldom, 1. In the person of John Ramsey, Viscount Hardington in Scotland, Created Earl of Holderness, and Baron of Kingston upon Thames, by King James I. Anno 1620. 2. In the person of the late Prince Rupert, Count Palatine of the Rhine, Created Duke of Cumberland, and Earl of Holderness by King Charles I. in the Year 1643. 3. In the per∣son of the Right Honourable Coniers D'Arcie, the present Earl of Holderness, advanced

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to that Dignity by King Charles II.

Beverly, a few miles North of Hull, is seat∣d on the Western Bank of the River Hull, which gives passage for Boats and Barges own into the Humber. 'Tis a large Bo∣rough-Town, containing two Parish-Churches, nd well-inhabited both by Gentry and Trades∣men. Of some note for being the Burial-Place of Sir John of Beverly, Archbishop of York; ho, being weary of the World, resigned up his Bishoprick, and here ended his Days 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a holy Life about the Year 721.

Heydon stands few miles East of Hull, upon 〈◊〉〈◊〉 small River near its fall into the Humber. 'Tis an ancient Borough-Town, formerly of great account, and injoying a good Trade; ill the Rise of its neighbour Hull occasioned ts Decay.

Howden, a good large Town, but unhealth∣full, is seated near the Confluence of the Ouse nd Derwent. It gives name to a small Ter∣ritory, from hence called Owdenshire.

North-West from this Territory is another called Derwentwater, lying betwixt the Ouse and the Derwent. Honoured with the Title of an Earldom in the person of the Right Honourable Francis Ratcliff, created Earl of Der∣entwater by King James II.

Pocklington, a small Town, stands North nd by East from Howden, upon a small River that falls into the Derwent. Kilham, North-East from Pocklington, is a long Town, dri∣y seated on the Woulds, but in a good Soil for Corn.

Burlington, or Bridlington, noted for its fa∣mous Bay, from hence called Burlington-Bay, stands high about a mile from the Sea. But, y the Sea-side, is the Key called Burlington-Key,

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where the Ships in the Harbour are supplied with such Provisions as they stand in need of. The Town of some note besides, for giving the Title of an Earl to the Right Honourable Richard Boyle, Baron Clifford of Landsborough, Youghal, and Bandon, Viscount of Kynalmeaky and Dungarvan, and Earl of Cork in Ireland; Created Earl of Burlington by King Charles II. Anno 1664.

Within two miles from Burlington North-Eastward is that noted Promontory, or Fore∣land, called Flamborough-Head, from Flambo∣rough a small Town in it.

In the West-Riding, upon the River Dun, you will find Sheffield, Rotheram, and Duncaster. Upon the Calder, Halifax, and Wakefield. Near, or upon the Are, Skipton, Bradforth, Leeds, Pontefract, and Snathe. Upon the Warfe, Otley, Wetherby, and Tadcaster. Betwixt the Are and Warfe, Sherburn. Upon the Ouse, Selby. On the Nyd, Ripley, and Knasborough. Upon the Youre, Rippon, and Boroughbridge. And on the Rible, Settle.

Sheffield, upon the Dun, is a good large Town, whose Houses are built of Stone. Its Market is great for several Commodities, but Corn especially, which is much bought up here for the supply of some Parts of Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and the West of Yorkshire. A Town that trades much be∣sides, by reason of the Iron Mines in these Parts, in Iron Wares, and Edge-tools, espe∣cially Knives and Blades. Whereof so anci∣ent an Author as Chaucer takes notice, speak∣ing of a Person that had a Sheafield Whittle by his side. Here is still to be seen the Rains of a Castle, one of the five which

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were seated on this River, all within ten miles distance.

Lastly, this Town, with divers others, be∣longs to the Wapentake of Strafford. Which gives the Title of an Earl to the Right Ho∣nourable William Wentworth, the present Earl of Strafford.

Rotheram has a fine Stone-Bridge over the River Dun, and its Houses are also built of Stone. A Place of some note, for giving birth to Thomas of Rotheram, Archbishop of York; who founded here a Colledge with three Schools, for the instructing of Youth in Gram∣mar, Musick, and Writing; but long since laid aside.

Duncaster; a great Thorough-fare in the Northern Road, is so called from a Castle that stood here on the River Dun, but not ong since ruinated. In the Year 759. this Town was reduced to ashes, and lay for some time in its Ruins. But it was raised up again, with a fair Church and Steeple. And it is now a goodly Town, well accommodated with Inns for Travellers, and driving a good Trade of knit Wastcoats, Peticoats, Gloves, and Stockings.

But we must not omit, that of late years it became of more remark, by giving the Title of Viscount to James Hay, Baron of Sauley, Created by King James I. Viscount of Dun∣caster, and Earl of Carlisle. Which from him passed to his Son and Heir, James Hay; but he dying without Issue-male, the Title fell with him. In the Reign of King Charles II. it was improved by that King to the Title of an Earldom, which he conferred with the Ti∣tle of Duke of Monmouth upon the late James Fitz-Roy, Anno 1663.

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Halifax, anciently called Horton, stands be∣twixt the Calder and a small River that fal into it. 'Tis a good large Town, with Stone built Houses, but seated in a barren Soil, up∣on a steep descent of a Hill. It is said to con∣tain at least 10000 Inhabitants, and ye but one Parish-Church, which Defect is in∣deed supplied by divers Chappels of Ease The Inhabitants noted for their Industry i making of Cloth and other Manufactures▪ but chiefly for the strict Law they have within themselves for the present Punishmen of Cloth-stealers. To which the Proverb al∣ludes, as it refers to Beggars and vagran People, From Hell, Hull, and Hallifax, go Lord, deliver us. The Town not further con∣siderable, till it attained the honour of gi∣ving the Title first of Viscount, secondly o Earl, and lastly of Marquess to the Righ Honourable George Savil, the present Marquel of Halifax. To all which degrees of Honour he was successively advanced by King Charles II.

About 6 miles from Halifax, near the Cal∣der, and on a steep, Hill, is seated Almond∣bury, the ancient Cambodunum. A Place of great repute, when the English-Saxons first began their Regal Government. For it was then the Royal Seat, and had in it a Cathe∣dral, built by Paulinus the Apostle of these Parts. Here was also a Fort and Castle, long since reduced to ruins.

Wakefield, on the Calder, is a large Stone∣built Town, of good Antiquity. Over the River it has a fair Stone-Bridge, upon which Edward IV. erected a stately Chappel, in remembrance of those who lost their Lives in his Quarrel. The Inhabitants of this Town are noted for their Clothing Trade.

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Skipton, Bradforth, and Pontefract, are all three seated upon so many small Streams, near their fall into the Are. Among which Skip∣ton stands in a hilly, rough, craggy, and un∣pleasant part of the Country, called Craven. Which gives the Title of an Earl to the Right Honourable William Craven, created Earl of Craven, Anno 1664.

Pontefract, or Pomfret, is a neat Borough-Town, pleasantly seated in a dry Spot of Ground, upon a small Stream a little below the Confluence of the Warfe and the Are. Formerly strengthened with a strong and state∣ly Castle, mounted on an Ascent, and forti∣fy'd with Ditches and Bulwarks; but was de∣molished in the long Civil Wars. In this Castle it was that Richard II. was murdered, after his Resignation of the Crown. About his Town grow's plenty of Licorish.

Leeds, on the Are, is an ancient Town, where formerly the Kings of Northumberland ad their Royal Pallace. And now 'tis so considerable, that it is counted one of the est Towns in Yorkshire. Well-inhabited it is, specially by Clothiers, who drive a great Trade for their Cloths.

Near unto Snathe, a small Town, is a little ountry of about 15 miles in compass, called Marsh-Land and Ditch-Marsh, which yields ex∣ellent feeding for Cattel.

Tadcaster, on the Warfe, is noted for two hings. Viz. the large Stone-Bridge it has er the River, and the plenty of Lime-stone gged up in its Neighbourhood.

Sherburn is seated between the Are and the arfe upon a small Stream that mixes its aters with those of the Warfe and Ouse here those two meet together. The Town

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is small, but well inhabited, and has a famous Free-School. Of some note besides for its Pins, and Cherries; and for the Quarries near it, whose Stones when first taken out of the Quarries are very soft, but seasoned with Wind and Weather become very hard and durable.

Selby, on the Ouse, is a good large Town; chiefly noted for being the Birth∣place of King Henry I.

Ripley, on the Nyd, is but a small Market-Town. Knaresborough is much more consider∣able, being a well-built Borough-Town, and fortified with a Castle upon a ragged rough Rock. About this Town, as well as Ponte∣fract, grow's plenty of Licorish. And under it is a Well, distilled from the Rocks that hang over it, the Water whereof (say's Speed) do's turn Wood into Stone.

Rippon, near the Youre, over which it has a Bridge, is a Place of good Antiquity. Where stood once that stately Monastery built by Wilfride Archbishop of York; which being destroy'd with the Town by the Danes, wa again repaired by Odo Archbishop of Canter bury, by whom the Reliques of Wilfride wer translated to Canterbury. The Town a present is one of the best in the whole Coun∣ty, well inhabited by Gentry and Tradesmen and among these by Clothiers and Spu makers, the Rippon Spurs being of specia note Its chief Ornament is the Collegia Church, set out with no less than 3 loft Spire-Steeples. In this Church was S. Wilfride Needle, a narrow Hole in a Vault under Groun where it is said Womens Honesty was trie Those that were chast, say's the Story, cou

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easily pass through; but the unchast, it seems, stuck by the way. Not far from this Town is the lofty Hill of Michelholme.

Boroughbridge, on the Youre, over which it has a Stone-Bridge, is a small Borough-Town, but a great Thorough-Fare in the Northern Road. Of special note for the four huge Stones, like unto Pyramids, that stand in a direct line in three little Fields near this Town. The Country-people call them the Devil's Bolts; but Cambden is of opinion, that they were here erected by the Romans, for a Monument of some Victory obtained by them.

In the North-Riding, we may reckon Rich∣mond as one of the chief Places. 'Tis at least the chief of that Part of it which is called Richmondshire, containing five Wapentakes (or Hundreds) within its Jurisdiction. A Tract of Ground lying North-Westward, with rugged Rocks and swelling Mountains; whose Sides in some places bear good Grass, and the Bot∣toms underneath not unfruitful. And in the Hills themselves are found good Mines of Lead and Pit-coal. Yet there are in it many waste Places, void of Inhabitants; as Deep-Dale, Swale-Dale-Forest, Apple-Garth-Forest, and others.

As for Richmond it self, 'tis seated on the North-Banks of the Swale, over which it has a Stone-Bridge. This River (which with a mighty noise runs here underneath the Town) was reputed very sacred by the ancient English, for that in it Paulinus, the first Archbishop of York, baptized in one day above ten thou∣sand Men, besides Women and Children. The Town is of a small Circuit in the Walls;

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but, by reason of its Suburbs lying out in length, very well peopled and frequented. First built by Alane (Earl of Bretagne in France, and the first Earl of this Place) after the Entrance of the Normans. Who fenced it with a Wall, and a most strong Castle, the better to secure these Parts a∣gainst the English; and, having finished the same, gave it the Name of Richmount, as a Place equally participating of strength and beauty. As to its present state, it contains two Parish-Churches, is graced with well-built Houses, many of them of free-Stone, well inhabited by Gentry and Tradesmen, and injoys a good Trade (for an Inland Town) for Stockings chiefty, and woollen Knit Caps for Seamen.

The Earls of Bretagne for a long time to∣gether continued in the Title and Possession of this County; and since, it has been bestowed upon other Families. In the Year 1641. James Stewart, Duke of Lenox, and Earl of March, was created Duke of Richmond by King Charles I. Esme, his Son, succeeded him; who died young, Anno 1660. Thus the Title fell to his Cousin german, Charles Earl of Lichfield; who died without Issue Embassadour in Denmark, in the year 1672. And, within less than 3 years after, the Title was conferred by King Charles II, upon his Grace Charles Lenox, the present Duke of Richmond, his natural Son by the Dutchess of Portsmouth.

In this Tract also, near Middleton on the Youre, is Bolton-Castle, seated in a Park. Late∣ly honoured with the Title of a Dukedom, in the person of his Grace Charles Pawlet, the present Duke of Bolton.

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Scarborough, upon the Sea, is a Place of great Strength, as well by Nature as Art. Seated on a steep Rock, with such craggy Cliffs, that it is almost Inaccessible on every side; and washed by the Sea on all parts but the West, where there is a narrow Passage, and that fenced with a strong Wall. On the top of the Rock is a fair, green, and large Plain, containing above 60 Acres of Ground, with a fresh Water Spring issuing out of the Rock. Here was formerly a stately Tower which served as a Land-Mark for Ships, but was demolished in the long Civil Wars. At this time it is fortified with a strong Castle, wherein a Garrison is kept. The Town is not very large, but well built, and well in∣habited; and, as it has a commodious Key, it injoy's a pretty good Trade. Several Ves∣sels belong unto this Town, imploy'd espe∣cially in Herring-Fishing Season, which are taken on this Coast in great plenty. This Place is also noted for its famous Spaw, which is much resorted unto. But of late, in a more particular manner, for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Richard Lumley, newly created Earl of Scar∣borough.

Between this Town and Whitby to the Northward is Robin Hoods Bay, so called from Robin-Hood, that noted Robber in the Reign of Richard I. About which is found a sort of Jeat, or black Amber.

Whitby, another Sea-Town, is commodiously seated on the River Esk, at its Influx into the Sea. A pretty neat Town, with a Bridge over the River, and driving a good Trade, chiefly for Allum and Butter. Here is a Custom-House, and great many Vessels

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belonging to the Town. Formerly a Place of note for its Abbey, but chiefly for the Abbess thereof, S. Hilda, so famed in her time for working of Miracles. One of which Tradition tells us was her ridding this Part of the Country of Snakes which infected it much, and conjuring of them into the Sea by her fervent Prayers. Which is backed by those who aver, that at the Root of the craggy Rocks that are upon the Shore there¦ly Stones scattered here and there, naturally as round as a Bullet. In which Stones, being broken, are found stony Serpents wrapt round, but most of them headless.

Not far from Whitby is Mulgrave, an an∣cient Castle situate near unto the Sea, and first built in the Time of Richard II by Peter de Mauley. Who, being pleased with it, called it Mouligrace, that is, a fine Seat. But, as it proved a grievous Yoke to the neighbour In∣habitants, they nicknamed it, and called it Moultgrave, since turned into Mulgrave, by which Name it go's to this day. It continu∣ed in this Line for 7 Generations, and all of them called Peters too. The Issue male failing, it passed through several Families, till it came to the Sheffields. Out of which House Edmund, Lord Sheffield of Butterwick, Lord President of the North, was created Earl of Mulgrave by King Charles I. Anno 1625. To whom succeeded in the Title Edmund, his Grand-Son by Sir John Sheffield his second Son. Who dying in the Year 1658. left his Title to his Son and Heir, the Right Honourable John Sheffield, the present Earl of Mulgrave.

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Some miles West from Mulgrave Castle is a small Sea-Town, called Skeningrave; not to be omitted, were it but for the following Ac∣count of the Seal-fish. Hereabouts near unto Hunt-Cliff, at low Water, appear Rocks not far from the Shore, about which the Seal-fish come in great Sholes, and in fair and warm Weather ly sleeping and sunning themselves. But, as it has been observed, while they ly thus asleep, one of them is upon the Watch, and acts the part of a Sen∣tinel. Who, upon the appearance of any Danger, gives the Signal by flouncing into the Water, the Noise whereof awakes the rest, and so they make their escape. They are not afraid (say's my Author) of Women, but only of Men; and therefore they that catch 'em put on Womens Cloaths. If, when they are chased, they find themselves too far from the Water, their Way is with their hinder feet to fling Sand and Gravel backward in the Pursuers faces, which forces 'em sometimes to quit the Sport.

Some miles from this Coast to the South∣ward is a Tract of Land, called Cleveland, taking that Name (as Cambden tells us) of the Cliffs, or steep Banks, which run all along the side thereof, and at the foot of which the Country spreads it self into a fine fruit∣ful Plain. A Territory besides of a good extent, which gave the Title of an Earl to Thomas Lord Wentworth, created Earl of Cleve∣land by King Charles I. But, leaving no Issue, the Title died with him, Anno 1670. King Charles II. conferred the Title of Dutchess of Cleveland upon Barbara Villiers, Daughter to the Lord Viscount Grandison who was slain in the Civil Wars, the Earl of Castlemain's

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Wife, and Mother of three Dukes, viz. the Duke of Southampton, the Duke of Grafton, and the Duke of Northumberland.

In this Tract (I mean Cleveland) is an an∣cient Castle, called Danby, seated near unto a large Park, and a goodly Chase of the same Name. It belonged anciently to the Lord Latimer, and was sold (with other Lands belonging to that Family) to Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmorland, who forthwith gave the same to his Son Sir George Nevil. And, not long after, King Henry VI. summoned him to the Parliament by the Name of Lord Latimer. Whose Issue male failing in Queen Eli∣zabeths Time, the Estate was divided be∣tween his two Daughters. The Castle, with the Lands adjoyning, fell to the share of Mary, Wife to Sir John Danvers of Wiltshire. By whom she got Sir Henry Danvers, Crea∣ted by King James I. Lord Danvers of Danby, and by King Charles I. Earl of Danby, But he, dying without Issue, the Title lay dormant, till revived by Charles II. By whom the Right Honourable Thomas Osborn, now Marquess of Caermarthen, was created Baron of Kineton, and Viscount Latimer, in the Year 1673, and Earl of Danby the next Year.

Gisborough is pleasantly seated in a Flat, between Mulgrave and the River Tees. A mean Town to what it was, when it had its rich Abbey; but of some note however, for being the first place where Allum was made in England. Not far from which is Roseberry-Topping, a Hill Pyramid-like, serving to Sail∣ers for a Land-Mark, and being to the Coun∣try-people a certain Sign of Rain, when they see a Cloud over it. Almost at the top of it is a Spring of Water coming out of a huge Rock, counted good for sore Eyes.

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Stokesley is a Market-Town well watered with fresh Streams. Yarum, but a mean Town, is seated on the Tees, which divides this County from the Bishoprick of Dur∣ham, and over which it has a fair Stone-Bridge. North-Allerton, a large Borough-Town, stands near the Wisk, a small Stream that falls into the Swale. And Thirsk is a small Bo∣rough-Town that had once a very strong Castle.

Bedal, Middleham, and Masham are all three in Richmondshire. The first, seated on the Swale, and a small Stream that falls there into it, Middleham and Masham, on the Youre. And not far from Masham is Aldborough, an ancient Borough-Town.

New Malton, Pickering, Kirby-Moreside, and Helmley, ly all four Eastward, not far distant from each other, nor from the Sea. The first, a Borough-Town, is seated on the Banks of the River Derwent, over which it has a Stone-bridge; and contains 3 Parish Churches, being well-inhabited, and accommodated with good Inns for Travellers. Its Market on Saturdays is counted one of the best in all the County for Horses, living Cattle, Pro∣visions, and most Country-Commodities, es∣pecially Tools for Husbandry. The other three are all seated on small Rivers, which after some small Course joyn together into one Stream, and so fall into the Derwent, a little below New Malton.

To conclude, this County (formerly a Part of the Kingdom of Northumberland, and its In∣habitants Part of the Brigantes, as the Ro∣mans called them,) is now in the Diocese of York.

Out of it are elected, besides the two Knights of the Shire, 28 Members of Par∣liament;

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Viz. Two by each of these following Towns, York, Kingston upon Hull, Knaresborough, Scarborough, Rippon, Richmond, Heydon, Borough∣bridge, Malton, Thirsk, Aldborough, Beverly, North-Allerton, Pomfret.

And, which is remarkable, it yields at this time two Dukes, and one Dutchess, one Mar∣quess, and nine Earls. The Dukes are of Rich∣mond, and Bolton; the Dutchess, of Cleveland; the Marquess, of Halifax; the Earls, of Mulgrave, Kingston, Strafford, Craven, Burlington, Holderness, Derwentwater, Faulconberg, and Scarborough.

Thus I have compassed a very difficult Task, the Description of forty Counties, with so much variety of Matter, in so short a Compass. The Reader perhaps expects in the next place, I should give an Account of the Twelve Counties of Wales, as being In∣corporated with England, at least in point of Government. But what Union soever it may have with England, 'tis but like those remote Cities conquered by the Romans, whose Inhabitants were Civitate donati, that is, made Citizens of Rome. England and Wales are naturally so distinct from each other, both as to the Country and the Inhabitants, that they cannot possibly fall under the same Character. And so I lay Wales aside to present you, by way of Precapitulation, with a Table, shewing by distinct Columns the Number of Hundreds, Parishes, and Market-Towns belonging to every County of England, with the Names of the Shire-Towns. Only 'tis to be observed that, in∣stead of Hundreds, Durham is divided into Wakes; Cumberland, Westmorland, and Nor∣thumberland, into Wards. Also, that some Counties are more generally divided than into

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Hundreds; as Yorkshire, first into three Ri∣dings, Kent into five Lathes, Sussex into six Rapes, Linconshire into these three Parts, Lind∣sey, Kesteven, and Holland.

The TABLE.
Shires. Hun Par. Shire-Towns Mark. T.
Barkshire. 20. 140. Reading. 12.
Bedfordshire. 9. 116. Bedford. 10.
Buckinghamsh. 8. 185. Buckingham. 15.
Cambridgeshire. 17. 163. Cambridge. 8.
Cheshire. 7. 85. Chester. 13.
Cornwal. 9. 161. Lanceston. 21.
Cumberland. 5. 58. Carlisle. 15.
Derbyshire. 6. 106. Derby. 10.
Devonshire. 33. 394. Exeter. 32.
Dorseishire. 29. 248. Dorchester. 19.
Durham. 4. 118. Durham. 6.
Essex. 20. 415. Colchester. 21.
Glocestershire. 30. 280. Glocester. 26.
Hampshire. 39. 253. Southampton. 16.
Hartfordshire. 8. 120. Hartford. 18.
Herefordshire. 11. 176. Hereford. 8.
Huntingtonshire. 4. 79. Huntington. 6.
Kent. 67. 408. Canterbury. 30.
Lancashire. 6. 61. Lancaster. 26.
Leicestershire. 6. 192. Leicester. 12.
Lincolnshire. 30. 630. Lincoln. 35.
Middlesex, 7. 273. LONDON. 6.
Monmouthshire. 6. 127. Monmouth. 7.
Norfolk. 31. 660. Norwich. 28.
Northamptonsh. 20. 326. Northampton. 13.
Northumberland 6. 460. Newcastle. 6.
Nottinghamsh. 8. 168. Nottingham. 9.
Oxfordshire. 14. 280. Oxford. 15.
Rutland. 5. 48. Okeham. 2.
Shropshire. 15. 170. Shrewsbury. 15.

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Somersetshire. 42. 385. Bath. 30.
Staffordshire. 5. 130. Stafford. 18.
Suffolk. 22. 575. Ipswich. 30,
Surrey. 13. 140. Guilford. 8.
Sussex. 65. 312. Chichester. 16.
Warwickshire. 5. 158. Warwick. 15.
Westmorland. 4. 26. Kendal. 8.
Wiltshire. 29. 304. Salisbury. 23.
Worcestershire. 7. 152. Worcester. 11.
Yorkshire. 26. 563. York. 49.

CHAP. XVIII.

Of LONDON and WEST∣MINSTER.

I Joyn these two together, because conti∣guous. And, tho' they be two distinct Cities, both by their Foundation and distinct Government; yet, as they make to∣gether one compact Body, the City of West∣minster, under that Notion, is generally com∣prehended under the Name of London, and lookt upon as a Part of it. In the Descri∣ption whereof, I shall joyn and part them, as occasion shall offer.

My Design is not to make a long Pream∣ble about the uncertain Original of LONDON, which (as some write) was built above eleven hundred Years before the Birth of our Saviour.

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That it is a most ancient City, is a thing past all doubt. For History tells us, that the British King Lud, above 60 Years before our Saviours Birth, repaired and improved it. The Romans, in whose Time it was an Archbishop's See, gave it the Title of Au∣gusta. And Animianus Marcellinus, who wrote near 1300 Years ago, calls it then an ancient City.

As for its Name, the most probable Con∣jecture in my Judgment is that of those who derive it from the British Word Llongdin, a Town of Ships.

Its Situation is, upon all accounts, very ad∣vantageous, whether we consider the Soil on which it stands, the River that waters it, the Fruitfulness of the Country about it, the Roads that lead into it, or its convenient Distance from the Sea.

The Soil is gravelly, and therefore so much the wholsomer. And, as it stands upon a gentle rising Bank, on the North-side of the River, this adds much to the healthfulness of the Place; the South-side being counted something unhealthy by reason of the Vapours the Sun draws upon it.

The Thames that waters it I have already described, as the chief River of England, and an excellent navigable River. This City stands where the River is cast into the form of a Crescent; and stretches it self in length along the Shore, as Cologne does upon the Rhine. Which is a great Advantage, upon several Accounts, especially to a great City First, because it ly's the more convenient for the several Uses and Benefits of the River. Se∣condly, for the Freeness of the Air; which makes it so much the healthfuller; lying open

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to the Fields Northward, and to the River Southward. Whereas Paris, and all other Cities of an orbicular Form, ly close toge∣ther, and the middle Parts half choackt for want of Air. To which add another Conve∣niency in London by its Situation along the River, that by the Course of it one may sooner find out any Place than is possible in Paris, which is a very Labyrinth in com∣parison.

This River besides is full of excellent Fish, such as Barbels, Trouts, Chevins, Pearches, Smelts, Breams, Roaches, Daces, Gudgeons, Flounders, Shrimps, Eels, &c. And, after the Smelt-time is past, it yields also sweet Sal∣mons. But Carps it is scarce of, except up∣on Land-flouds, when they get out of Gen∣tlemens Ponds. Great number of Swans are daily seen upon this River. Besides a per∣petual Motion of Wherries and small Boats, above 2000 in Number, whereby 3000 Water∣men are maintained, by carrying Goods and Passengers thereon. Not counting those large Tilt-Boats, Tide-Boats, and Barges, which ei∣ther carry People, or bring Provision from most Parts of the neighbouring Coun∣ties.

For Navigation, no River more commodi∣ous, as may appear by a Passage in the Reign of King James I. Who, being displeas∣ed with the City, for refusing to lend him a Sum of Mony he required, threatned the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, that he would remove his Court, with all the Records of the Tower, and the Courts of Westmin∣ster-Hall, to another Place, with further expressions of his Indignation. Your Maje∣sty, answered the Lord Mayor calmly, may

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do what you please therein, and your City of London will prove still dutifull; but she comforts her self with the Thoughts, that your Majesty will leave the Thames behind you.

This River besides is so Kind, that it sel∣dom indamages any Part of this City by its Overflowings. Here the highest Tides are upon a Land-floud, and the Moon at full, when sometimes it does swell over its Banks. But then Westminster, lying low, feels alone the effects of it, and that seldom further than the Cellars. Whereas the Chambers and Upper Rooms at Rome and Paris are some∣times overflowed, Rome by the Tiber, and Paris by the Seine.

From this River the City, by Water-En∣gines, is in many places supplied with good Water. But, to serve with Water the North Parts of the City, as the Thames does the South Parts, it has the Conveniency of an artificial River, commonly called the New River, which was begun Anno 1608, and fi∣nished in five Years time. A noble Under∣taking of Sir Hugh Middleton, who for this great Work deserves his Statue in Brass. This River he brought from Amwell and Chad∣well, two Springs near Ware in Hartfordshire; from whence, in a turning and winding Course, it runs near upon 60 miles, before it reach∣es this City. In this Undertaking, fitter in∣deed for a Prince than any Subject, there have been six hundred Men at once imploy∣ed, which was a prodigious Charge. The Channel in some Places 30 foot deep, in o∣thers carried over Valleys 20 foot at least above Ground, in open Troughs. And over this River are 800 Bridges, some of Stone,

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some of Wood, and others of Brick.

This City besides has the Conveniency of several Conduits of Spring-Water, so com∣modiously placed, that they serve all the chief Parts of it. And it is so situated, that in all Parts (though on the highest Ground) 'tis abundantly served with Pump-Water, the Pumps in many Places not six foot deep in the Ground.

For a constant Supply of Provisions, be∣sides the fruitfull County of Middlesex, in which it stands, and that of Surrey on the other side of the River (both which are rea∣dy at hand to furnish it with their Provisi∣ons) it is neighboured with many other plentifull Counties, out of whose abundance this City lives in great plenty, and seldom knows what Scarcity is.

The Conveyance so easy, both by Land and Water, that no City in Europe has bet∣ter Conveniencies. So large, fair, and smooth are the High Ways that lead from all Parts to it, and so convenient is the River, that almost all the Fewel for firing is brought up that Way to Town. The Coals from New∣castle, and the Wood from Kent and Essex; some of which last comes also down the River from Surrey and Middlesex. Lastly, as it has the Command of the Sea, so there is scarce any Blessing in the Terrestrial Globe but this City has her Share in it.

Moreover, its Distance from the Sea (which is about 60 Miles) is a great Argument of the Founder's Wisdom. For, by that Distance, as it is not so near as to be annoyed by the unwholsom Vapours of the Sea, or to be sud∣denly surprised by an Enemies Fleet; so it is not so far but that, by the help of the

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Tide (which comes up every 12 hours) Ships of great burden may be brought into her bosom.

In point of Latitude, 'tis in 51 Degree, 30 Minutes.

I come now to its full Extent, with its Suburbs and Places adjacent. Its Length from East to West, that is, from Lime-house to the further end of Mill-Bank in Westmin∣ster, is above 7500 Geometrical Paces, which comes to seven measured miles and an half, at 1000 paces a mile; that is, about five computed miles, or two Parisian Leagues and a half. The Breadth indeed is not pro∣portionable, the City being built in Length for the Conveniency of the River. And yet, taking Southwark in on the other side of the River, as it is under the Lord May∣or's Jurisdiction, and joyned to London by the Bridge, this vast City reaches there in Breadth, from North to South, that is, from the further end of White-Chappel Street to St. George's Fields in Southwark, near upon 3 miles. So that I cannot but conceive that, if London were cast (as Paris) into an or∣bicular Form, the Circumference of it would be much larger than that of Paris. So much it is increased in Buildings, since the dismal Con∣flagration in the Year 1666.

But whether it is profitable to the Body of the State or not, to have so vast a Head, may be made a Question. And, if Dr. Heylin had cause to complain in his time of its being grown then too big for the Kingdom, he might with much more reason do it now. Great Towns, says he, in the Body of a State are like the Spleen or Milt in the Bo∣dy natural. The monstrous Growth of which

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impoverishes all the rest of the Members, by drawing to it all the animal and vital Spirits which should give nourishment unto them; and in the end cracked or surcharged by its own fulness, not only sends unwhol∣som Fumes and Vapours to the Head, and heavy Pangs upon the Heart, but draws a Consumption on it self. He adds further, that the Overgrowth of great Cities is of dange∣rous consequence, not only in regard of Fa∣mine, such Multitudes of Mouths not being easy to be fed; but in respect of the irre∣parable Danger of Insurrections, if once those Multitudes, sensible of their own Strength, oppressed with Want, or otherwise distem∣pered with Faction or Discontent, should gather to a head, and break out into Action.

These are all, I confess, very plausible Ar∣guments. But, if we consider London as it is in a manner the Head of three King∣doms, at least the Seat of their Monarch, I see nothing of Monstrousness in it. On the other side, London having the Conveni∣ency of the Sea and of a navigable River, is so much the less subject to a Famine; for that in case of Scarcity at home, it may be supply'd from abroad. And, as in so great a Body there be commonly different Parties led by opposite Interests, so there is the less Cause to fear Insurrections, because one Par∣ty keeps still another in aw. Just so Geneva and Hamburg, two free Cities, do not sub∣sist so much by their own Strength, as by the Jealousy of the several States that neigh∣bour upon 'em.

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But the greatest Danger incident to great Cities (and omitted by Dr. Heylin) is in Case of Contagious Diseases; Which, the more Matter they find to work upon, make so much the greater havock; and like a ra∣ging Fire, get strength by their Motion. Witness the Year 1665, when at London there died of the Plague in one day no less than 1200.

When all is done, I have this to urge in the behalf of great Cities, that they are a visible Sign of a flourishing State, and such as draws Respect from its Neighbours, who look upon it as the Luxuriancy and Result of its Wealth. And, of all the Cities of Eu∣rope, none can so justly challenge the Pre∣eminency in this Point as London, the Metropo∣lis of England; being not only perhaps the most ancient, but also the wealthiest, and (reckoning all its Annexes) the greatest City now extant in Europe.

Such a City as contains above 600 Streets, Lanes, Courts, and Alleys; and in them all, by a late Computation, at least a hundred thousand Houses. So that, allowing only 8 Persons to each House one with another, (which I think is moderate) the Number of the Inhabitants will amount at that rate to above eight hundred thousand Souls. Be∣fides a World of Seamen, that live and swarm in that constant (tho' moving) Forest of Ships down the River, on the East side of the Bridge.

The Dwelling Houses raised since the Fire are generally very fair, and built much more convenient and uniform than heretofore. Be∣fore the Fire, they were most Timber Hou∣ses, built with little regard to Uniformity;

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but since the Fire, Building of Bricks has been the general Way, and that with so much Art and Skill in Architecture, that I have often wondered to see in well-compact Houses so many Conveniences in a small com∣pass of Ground. In short, our English Build∣ers have built so much of late Years, that no Nation perhaps at this time can vy with them for making much of any Ground (tho' never so little) and contriving all the Parts of it to the best advantage, in the neatest and most regular way, with all the Conveni∣ences the Ground can possibly afford. And that which adds much to the Neatness of the late Buildings is the Wainscot, now so much in use. Which, as it is the cleanest Furniture, so it is the most durable, and indeed the most proper for so moist a Country.

If we come to Stateliness, I confess the Noblemens Houses at Paris, being built of free Stone (as most of that City are) with large Courts before 'em for the Reception of Coaches, make a fine outward Appearance. But, for uniformity, state, and magnificence, we have some here, and chiefly Montague-House, that exceed by far most of 'em. As for great Merchants Houses, and fair Taverns, scarce any City surpasseth London in this particu∣lar. For publick Buildings, as Halls, Inns of Court, Exchanges, Market-Places, Hospitals, Colledges, Churches, besides the Bridge upon the River, the Monument, Custom-House, and the Tower, they are Things worth any Stran∣gers Curiosity to view, at least a good part of them. Most of which have indeed the disad∣vantage of being built backward, and out of the way, to make room for Tradesmens Shops in the Streets. Whereas, if they had

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been all built towards the Street, as generally they are in other Countries, few Cities could make so great an Appearance.

But for stately, strait, and spacious Streets, (to pass by many curious Courts) where shall one see finer than Cheapside, Cornhill, ombard-Street, Fleet-Street, Hatton Garden, Pall∣nall, and several others, especially near the Court? What forein City can shew so many Piazzas, or fine Squares, such as Lincolns-Inn-Fields, Lincolns-Inn-Square, Grays-Inn, Red Lion, and Southampton-Squares, the Golden Square, King's Square in Sohoe, S. James's Square, Lei∣cester-Fields, and Covent-Garden. The first of which is chiefly noted for its Spaciousness, and King's Square for its Stateliness.

Lastly, when I reflect upon that disinal Fire, which in three Days time consumed a∣bove thirteen thousand Houses (besides 89 Parish Churches, the vast Cathedral of S. Paul, divers Chappels, Halls, Colledges, Schools, and other publick Edifices) it is a matter of amazement to me to see how soon the English recovered themselves from so great a Desola∣tion, and a Loss not to be computed. At 3 Years end near upon ten thousand Houses were raised up again from their Ashes, with great Improvements. And by that time the fit of Building grew so strong, that, besides a full and glorious Restauration of a City that a raging Fire had lately buried in its Ashes, the Suburbs have been increased to that de∣gree, that (to speak modestly) as many more Houses have been added to it, with all the Advantages that able and skilfull Builders could invent, both for Conveniency and Beau∣ty.

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But it is time to come to Particulars The City, properly so called, is begirt with a Wall, which gives entrance at seven prin∣cipal Gates, besides Posterns of later erection Viz. on the West-side Ludgate and Newgate, both which serve for Prisons; the first, for such Debtors as are Freemen of the City the other for Malefactors both of the City and Country, and is besides the County Goa for Debt. Northwards, those of Aldersgate, Cripglegate, Moorgate, and Bishopsgate. And Eastward, Aldgate.

Within the Compass of the Walls there are reckoned 97 Parishes; and in relation to the Civil Government, the City within the Walls and Freedom is divided into 26 Wards or Aldermanries, of which more hereaf∣ter.

As to the publick Buildings here, I shall begin with the Tower, a Fort upon the Thames, which commands both the City and River. Called the Tower, from the great white Tower in the middle, which gives Name to the Whole. 'Tis all surrounded with a Wall and Ditch about a mile in compass, with Cannon planted on the Walls, and the Tur∣rets thereof. But it is besides the principal Store-house of England for Arms and Ammu∣nition, such as is said to contain Arms for about 60000 Men.

Here are also kept the Jewels and Orna∣ments of the Crown, and the ancient Re∣cords of the Nation. As among others, the Original of all the Laws that have been enacted or recorded till the Reign of Richard II. The Grants of several Kings to their Subjects at home and abroad, and

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the Confirmations thereof. The several Treaties and Leagues with forein Princes. The Dominion of the British Seas. The Title of the Kings of England to the King∣dom of France, and how obtained. All the Atchievements of this Nation in France, and other forein Parts. The Homage and De∣pendency of Scotland upon England. The Esta∣blishment of Ireland in Laws and Dominions. These, and many other Records, are reposited in Wakefield Tower, near the Traytors Gate, under the Custody of an Officer, called the Keeper of the Records, and whose Salary is 500 l. per Annum. This Place is properly in the Master of the Rolls his Gift.

Every day of the Week (except Sundays, Holy-Days, publick Fasting, and Thanksgiv∣ing-Days, and Times of great Pestilence) they that have occasion to look into the Re∣cords have admittance. In the Morning from 7 to 11 a clock, and in the Afternoon from one till five. Except in the Months of De∣cember, January, and February, where Atten∣dance is not given till 8 in the Morning, and in the Afternoon not beyond 4 a clock.

In the Tower is the only Mint of En∣gland, for Coyning of Gold and Silver. To which belong several Offices, which I intend to muster in my second Part, where I shall speak of the English Coyns.

Lastly, the Tower, which has been for∣merly honoured with the Residence of seve∣ral Kings, who kept their Courts here, is now the chief Prison, where Persons of quality that are charged with Crimes against the Go∣vernment are kept in Custody.

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Here are also many Dwelling-Houses fo the Officers that belong to it, either as a Arsenal, or a Mint, &c. And, as an Arsenal here is kept the Office of his Majesties O∣dinance, to be explained in my second Part For the publick Devotion of all the Dwelle•••• in the Tower there is within its Walls on Parochial Church, called S. Petri ad Vincul infra Turrim, being the Kings Donative with∣out Institution and Induction, and exemp from all Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction of the Arch∣bishop.

The Government of the Tower, as it is a Place of great Trust, so it has been usually put in the hands of two Persons of great worth, the one called Constable, and the other Lieutenant of the Tower. The Constable has the chief Command, and is Lord Lieutenant of the 21 Hamlets belonging to it, which ly in several Parishes of large extent. Whose Train-bands, making two intire Regiments of Foot, and above 3000 Men, are to attend the Kings Person when commanded, but are to march no farther than the King. They were sometimes the Gards of the Tower, and are bound (if occasion be) to reinforce the Garrison, upon the Constable's Com∣mand. Who, by his Place is to be in the Commission of the Peace for the City of London, and the Counties of Middlesex, Kent, and Surrey. And so is the Lieutenant, who is subordinate, to the Constable for the time being, but in his absence commands with the full Power of both. His Salary is 200 l. per annum, with all the Fees and Perquisites, which are very considerable, both from the Prisoners that happen to be in the Tower, and from the Warders Places, which are all at his Disposal.

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Under the Command of the Constable, and the Lieutenant of the Tower in his absence, are the Gentleman Porter, the 24 eomen Warders, and the Gunners of the Tow∣er.

The Gentleman Porter (who holds his Place by Patent) has the Charge of the Gates. The Keys whereof he is every night to de∣liver to the Constable, and in his absence to the Lieutenant, and to receive them of him the next morning. He commands the War∣ders that are upon duty, and claims for his Fee at the entrance of a Prisoner his Upper Garment, or else a Composition for the same.

The Warders are accounted the King's Do∣mestick Servants, and sworn accordingly by the Lord High Chamberlain, or by the Clerk of the Check. Their Duty is to wait at the Gates, and by the Lieutenant of the Tower's appointment to attend Prisoners of State, which is the most profitable and be∣neficial part of their Station. At the Gates they examine every Stranger that offers to go in, and before admittance (according to the Rules of Military Discipline) those that ear Swords must leave 'em in their hands, ill they go out. Ten of them are usually upon the Days Wait, and two upon the Watch very night.

The Gunners are to look after the Ord∣ance mounted on the Batteries and Lines, nd ready for Service on the shortest Warn∣ing. One or more of them are upon Duty ay and night, to wait for Orders.

For the Liberty of the Tower (to which as been annexed the old Artillery Garden y Spittle-Fields, and the little Minories)

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here is an ancient Court of Record; held by a Steward every Monday by Prescription, for Debts, Trespasses, &c. And in the said Li∣berty the Gentleman Porter has the same Power and Authority as Sheriffs have with∣in their respective Counties. He constitutes Bayliffs thereof, to execute all Process and Warrants directed to them by the Steward of the Court; and has all Escheats, Deodands, and Goods of all Felones dese.

For Ecclesiastical Causes and Probate of Wills, the Tower and Liberties thereof have a Royal Jurisdiction. From which there is no Appeal but to the King in his Court of Chancery; who thereupon issues out a Commission under the Great Seal, as in Appeals from the Arches or Prerogative Courts.

But, whether the Tower be in the County (that is under the Jurisdiction) of Middle∣sex, or in the Liberty of the City, 'tis un∣determined to this day. Some will have it to be part of it in Middlesex, and part in the Liberty of the City. And in the Case of Sir Thomas Overbury's Murder, the Judges Opinion was, that the Trial must be made in the City, the Fact being done in that Part of the Tower held to be in the City Liberties.

Next to the Tower, I come to the Custom House, placed between the Tower and th Bridge. Which, having been destroy'd by the Fire in the Year 1666, was soon afte rebuilt much more commodious, uniform, an magnificent; and the Building cost the Kin 10000 pounds.

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Here are received and managed all the Im∣positions laid upon Merchandise Imported, and Exported from this City. Which are so con∣siderable, that, of all the Customs of En∣gland divided into 3 Parts, the Port of Lon∣don pay's two Thirds, that is (when Trade flourishes) about 400000 l. yearly.

In this Office are imploy'd a great Num∣ber of Officers, an Account whereof you will find in my Second Part, where I speak of the King's Revenues.

The Bridge of London offers it self in the next place to our Consideration. Which, considering the constant great Flux and Reflux at that Place, was certainly a very difficult and costly piece of Work. It consists of 19 Arches, at 20 foot distance of each other, with a Draw∣bridge almost in the middle 'Tis about 800 foot long, and 30 broad. Set out with a fine Row of Houses all along, with Shops fur∣nished with most sorts of Commodities. So that it looks more like a Street than a Bridge, the Street being widened in the late Reign from 12 to 20 foot. It was built in the year 1200, in the Reign of King John. And so great are the Charges of keeping it in repair, that there is a large Revenue in Lands and Houses set apart for that pur∣pose, and two Bridge-Masters (besides other Officers) chosen out of the Liverv-men on Midsummer-Day to look after the same.

Near this Bridge is the fatal Place where the dreadful Fire afore-mentioned first began. In perpetual Memory whereof was erected, by virtue of an Act of Parliament, that aster-piece of Building, called the Monu∣ment,

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begun Anno 1671, in the Mayoralty of Sir Richard Forde Knight, and finished Anno 1677, Sir Thomas Davies being Lord Mayor of London. This Pillar, not unlike those two ancient white Marble Pillars at Rome, erect∣ed in honour of the Emperours Trajan and Antonius, is all built of Portland Stone, as du∣rable almost as Marble; and is of the Do∣rick Order, 202 foot high, and 15 foot Dia∣meter. Within-side is a fair winding Stair∣case, with Iron rails up to the top; where this stately Pile is surrounded with an Iron-Balcony, yielding a pleasant Prospect all over the City. The Pedestal is 40 foot high, and 21 foot Square; the Front of it adorned with ingenious Emblems, and the North and South∣sides with these two Latine Inscriptions.

Anno Christi MDCLXVI. Die IV. Nonis Sep∣tembris, hinc in Orientem, pedum CCII. Inter∣vallo (quae est hujusce Columnae Altitudo) eru∣pit de medià Nocte Incendium, quod Vento spirante hausit etiàm longinqua, & Partes per omnes populabundum ferebatur cum impetu & fragore incredibili; XXCIX Templa, Portas, Pratorium, Aedes publicas, Ptocotrophia, Scholas, Bibliothecas, Insularum magnum Numerum, D∣muum ↂOOOOOOCC, Vicos CD absumpsit: De XXVI Regionibus XV funditus delevit, alias VIII. laceras & semiustas reliquit. Ʋrbis Cada∣ver ad CDXXXVI. Jugera, Hinc ab Arce, per Thamisis Ripam ad Templariorum Fanum, Illinc ab Euro Aquilonali Portâ secundum Muros ad Fossae Fletanae Caput, perrexit; adversus Opes Civium, & Fortunas infestum, erga Viros innocuum, ut per omnia referret supremam illa Mundi Exustionem. Velox Clades fui; exi∣guum Tempus eandem vidit Civitatem florentiss

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mam & nullam Tertio die, cum jam evicerat humana Consilia & Subsidia omnia, Coelitus, ut par est credere, jussus steit fatalis Ignis, & quaquaversum clanguit.

The same thus Englished by Dr. Chamberlain.

In the Year of Christ 1666, the second Day of September, Eastward from hence, at the Distance of Two hundred and two foot (the height of this Column) a terrible Fire broke out about Midnight; which driven on by a high Wind, not only wasted the adjacent Parts, but also very remote Places, with incredible noise and fury. It consumed eighty nine Churches, the City-Gates, Guildhall, many publick Structures, Hospitals, Schools, Libraries, a vast Number of stately Edifices, Thirteen thousand two hundred Dwelling-houses, four hundred Streets. Of the six and twenty Wards it utterly destroy'd fifteen, and left eight o∣thers shattered and half-burnt. The Ruins of the City were four hundred thirty six Acres, from the Tower by the Thames-side to the Temple-Church, and from the North-East Gate along the City-Wall to Holborn-Bridge. To the Estates and Fortunes of the Citizens it was merciless, but to their Lives very favourable, that it might in all things resemble the last Conflagration of the World. The Destruction was sudden, for in a small space of time the same City was seen most flourishing, and reduced to nothing. Three days after, when this fatal Fire had baffled all humane Counsels and In∣deavours in the Opinion of all, it stopt as it were by a Command from Heaven, and was on every side extinguished.

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The other Inscription runs thus, on the other side.

Carolus II. C. Mart. F. Mag. Brit. Fran. & Hib. Rex, Fid. D. Princeps Clementissimus, mi∣seratus luctuosam Rerum faciem, plurima fuman∣tibus jam tum Ruinis, in Solatium Civium & Ʋrbis suae Ornamentum providit, Tributum remi∣sit, Preces Ordinis & Populi Londinensis retulit ad Regni Senatum; qui continuo decrevit ut publica Opera Pecunia publicâ, ex Vetigali Carbonis fossilis oriunda, in meliorem formam restituerentur; uti{que} Aedes Sacrae & D. Pauli Templum a Fundamentis omni Magnificentia ex∣truerentur; Pontes, Portae, Carceres novi fierent; emundarentur Alvei, Vici ad regulam responde∣rent, Clivi complanarentur, aperirentur Angi∣portus, Fora & Macella in Areas sepositas eli∣minarentur. Censuit etiam uti singulae Domus Maris intergerinis concluderentur, universae in frontem pari altitudine consurgerent, omnes{que} Parietes Saxo quadrato aut cocto latere solida∣rentur; utique nemini liceret ultra Septennium adificando immorari. Ad haec, Lites de Ter∣minis orituras Iege lata proescidit; adjecit quo{que} Supplicationes annuas, & ad aeternam Postere∣rum Memoriam H. C. P. C. Festinatur undique, Resurgit Londinum, majori celeritate an splen∣dore incertum, unum Triennium absolvit quod Sae∣culi Opus credebatur.

In English, thus.

Charles II. Son of Charles the Martyr, King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, De∣fender of the Faith, a most gracious Prince, Commiserating the deplorable state of

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Things, whilst the Ruins were yet smoak∣ing, provided for the Comfort of his Citi∣zens, and the Ornament of his City; Re∣mitted their Taxes, and referred the Peti∣tions of the Magistrates and Inhabitants to the Parliament; who immediately passed an Act, that publick Works should be re∣stored to greater Beauty with publick Mo∣ny, to be raised by an Imposition on Coals; That Churches and the Cathedral of S. Paul's should be Rebuilt from their Foundations, with all Magnificence; That Bridges, Gates, and Prisons should be new made, the Sewers cleansed, the Streets made strait and regular, such as were steep le∣velled, and those too narrow made wider; Markets and Shambles removed to sepa∣rate Places. They also Enacted, that eve∣ry House should be built with Party Walls, and all in Front raised of equal height, and those Walls all of square Stone or Brick, and that no man should delay Building be∣yond the space of seven Years. Moreover, Care was taken by Law, to prevent all Suits about their Bounds. Also anniver∣sary Prayers were injoyned; and, to per∣petuate the Memory hereof to Posterity, they caused this Column to be erected. The Work was carried on with diligence, and London is restored; but, whether with greater speed or beauty, may be made a question. At three years time the World sees that finished, which was supposed to be the Business of an Age.

From the Monument I come now to the Royal Exchange, the finest Building of this kind in Europe. First erected in the year

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1566 (just one hundred years before it was burnt) at the Cost and Chargers of a no∣ble Merchant, Sir Thomas Gresham; and, by the special Command of Queen Elizabeth, proclaimed in a solemn manner by the Name of the Royal-Exchange. But then it was built most of Brick; and now all of free-stone within and without, with admirable Archi∣tecture.

The same is Quadrangular, with a stately Front to it, and a high Turret at the top, with a Chime of 12 Bells. Within is a large Court, wherein the Merchants meet daily about one a Clock; and all round it fine arched Galleries or Walks, for a Shelter in case of Rain, or hot Sun-shiny Wea∣ther.

In the middle of the Court stands a fine Statue of white Marble, upon a Pedestal 7 foot high. 'Tis the Statue of King Charles II, done with great beauty and spirit in the ancient Habit of the Roman Caesars, with a Wreath of Laurel on his Head. The Work of Mr. Gibbons, (a most skilfull Artist,) at the charge of the Merchant Adventurers of England.

But the greatest Ornament of this Place is in the Niches above, where the Kings of England from William the Conquerour are now partly set up, till the rest can be finish∣ed.

Above Stairs is the Exchange, chiefly for wearing Apparel. It consists of almost 200 Shops, where the richest sort of Commodi∣ties are sold, both for Use and Orna∣ment.

The whole Fabrick cost above 50000 l. whereof one half being disbursed by the Chamber of London, and the other by the

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Company of Mercers, they now reimburse themselves by the Rent of the Shops above and below Stairs, and the vaulted Cellars un∣der Ground. Which comes to about 4000 l. a Year, besides 30 l. Fine, which is paid for every Shop. And, as Dr. Chamberlain ob∣serves, this goodly Fabrick not taking up quite an Acre of Ground, is perhaps the richest piece of Ground in the whole World.

In our Way towards Westminster, before we come to St. Pauls Cathedral, are three Things worth taking notice of. On the left hand, a Statute of King Charles II. on Horse∣back in Stock-Market, with a fine Con∣duit to it, Bow steeple in the middle of Cheapside, and on the right hand the Guild∣hall. The first done in white Marble, at the Cost and Charges of Sir Robert Viner. The other a solid and beautifull Structure, composed of four of the Orders of Building, which shews the rare Invention of the Ar∣chitect. The whole Height of it from the Ground is 225 foot, and yet is but half so high as the intended Dome of St. Pauls Ca∣thedral is designed to be. Noted besides for its Ring of Bells, reputed to be the best in all England. Guildhall, where the the City Courts of Judicature are held; and where the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Common-Council meet for the Management of the City-Concerns, is a spacious Building, but more glorious within than without. At the first coming in is a spacious Hall, set out (among other Things) with the Pictures of Their Majesties King William and Queen Mary, with those of several Judges. Here are also two Giauts, that stand up in their bulky Figures.

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Blackwell-Hall is so near this Place, and so famous for the Sale of Woollen-Cloths, that I cannot pass it by in Silence. The same was purchased by the Lord Mayor and Com∣monalty in the Beign of Richard II, and has been since imployed as a Weekly Market-Place for all sorts of Woollen-Cloth, broad and narrow, brought from all Parts of the Kingdom there to be sold. And it is to this day the greatest Market and Store-house for all sorts of Woolen-Cloth.

And now we come to St. Pauls Cathedral, seated on the highest Part of all the City, and first built by Sebert, the first Christian King of the East-Saxons. Before the Fire it was in Length 690 Foot, that is 20 foot long∣er than St. Peter's in Rome, which for beauty, proportion, and divers other Things, excels all other Churches. Its Breadth and Height were proportionable to the Length, so that it stood upon so much ground as contained above 3 Acres and a half. This famous Church, as vast and solid as it was, was devoured by that dreadfull Fire in the Year 1666. But, some Years after, Sir Chri∣stopher Wren having, by the King's Command, designed a new Model of it, a new Foun∣dation was laid accordingly. And, ever since, this stately Fabrick has been carried on to that height we see it now. So that for Great∣ness and Figure, for Solidity, Magnificence, and curious-Architecture, 'tis like to excel all Churches in Christendom, except in some particulars St. Peter's Church in Rome. To this Cathedral belongs a Dean, and thirty Prebendaries, &c.

〈4 pages missing〉〈4 pages missing〉

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Within the Liberties,

  • The Two Sergeants Inns, one in Fleetstreet, and the other in Chancery-Lane.
  • Two Inns of Court, the Inner and the Middle-Temple, in Fleetstreet.
  • Five Inns of Chancery, viz. Clifford's-Inn in Fleetstreet, and these four in Hoborn, Tha∣vies, Furnivals, Bernards, and Staple-Inns.

Without the Liberties,

  • Two other Inns of Court, viz. Grays Inn in Holborn, and Lincolns Inn in Chancery Lane.
  • Three Inns of Chancery, viz. Clements Inn, New Inn, and Iyons Inn.

The Sergeants Inns are so called, because divers Judges and Sergeants at Law keep their Commons and Lodge there in Term∣time. The Number of these is about 26, who being arrived to the highest Degree in the Study of the Common Law, have here their Lodging and Diet. Out of these are all the Judges of the Kings Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer elected by the King; t being a Degree in the Common Law an∣werable to that of Doctor in the Civil Law. But, whereas Doctors of Law are allowed to it covered within the Bar, the Sergeants stand are-headed without the Bar, only with Coifs or Caps) on. For they are called Servientes 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Legem; and Servitutis Appellatio-est Ministe∣ii, Doctoris vero Magisterii.

The Degrees by which the Student in the ommon Law rises to that of a Sergeant are

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first, by being bred 2 or 3 years in the Uni∣versity, in the Study of Logick and Rheto∣rick, with some Insight into the Civil Law. Upon which he is admitted to one of the four Inns of Court, where he is first called a Student, or Inner-Barrister, till after 7 Years Study he becomes a Mootman or Utter-Bar∣rister, and some Years after a Bencher.

Those are Utter-Barristers, who from their Learning and Standing are called by the Benchers, in the Mooting Time, to plead and argue Moots, that is doubtfull Cases and Questions. And, whilst they argue the said Cases, they sit uttermost on the Forms of the Benchers. Out of these Mootmen, are chosen Readers for the Inns of Chancery, where in Term-Time and Grand Vacations they argue Cases in the presence of Attor∣neys and Clerks. In the four Inns of Chan∣cery seated in Holbourn, the Moots are read either by those of Grays-Inn, or Lincolns-Inn; and in the others, by those of the two Temples.

The Benchers, so called from the Bench whereon they sit at the upper end of the Hall, are the Seniors, to whom is committed the Government of the whole House; and out of whose Number is yearly chosen a Trea∣surer, who receives, disburses, and accounts for all Moneys belonging to the House. Out of these are also chosen those Readers, whose Reading is kept with so much feasting and so∣lemnity. To which are invited the chief Nobles, Judges, Bishops, great Officers of the King∣dom, and sometimes the King himself. Such a Feasting as has cost some Readers 1000 l. After which the Reader wears a long Rob∣different

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from other Barristers, and is then in a capacity to be made a Sergeant at Law, the Sergeants being usually chosen out of these Readers.

The Manner of their Choice is thus. When the Number of Sergeants is small, the Lord Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas, by the advice and consent of the other Judges, makes choice of some of the most grave and learned of the Inns of Court, and presents their Names to the Lord Chancellour, or Lord Keeper. Who sends, by the King's Writ, to each of them, to appear on such a day be∣fore the King, to receive the State and De∣gree of a Sergeant at Law. At the appoint∣ed Time, they, being habited in party∣coloured Robes, come to Westminster-Hall, accompany'd with the Students of the Inns of Court, and attended by a Train of Ser∣vants and Retainers in their Cloth Liveries. Where they take in publick a solemn Oath, and are cloathed with Coifs, which they wear always in publick. After this, they feast the great Persons of the Nation in a most splendid manner, and present them with gold Rings, according to their Quality. Out of these Sergeants the King calls by Writ some of them to be of his Council at Law. These fit within the Bar in all Courts at West∣minster, except in the Common-Pleas.

The Inns of Court are so called, either be∣cause the Students therein are to serve the Courts of Judicature, or elfe (as Fortescue affirms) because these Colledges received only the Sons of Noblemen and better sort of Gentlemen. They are the largest and the most beautiful Inns; Grays-Inn particularly being beautify'd of late with a fine Square,

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and another being now building in Lincolns-Inn, which will be a great Set-off and Orna∣ment to it.

The Two Temples (heretofore the Dwell∣ing of the Knights Templers, purchased above 300 years since by some Professors of the Common Law) are called the Inner and Middle Temple, in relation to Essex-House, now built up into Streets. Which House was part of the Knights Templers, and called the Outer-Temple, because seated without Temple-Bar.

Lincolns Inn is so called from the ancient Earls of Lincoln, whose House it was; and Grays-Inn, from the noble Family of the Grays, to whom it formerly belonged.

In these four Inns of Court are reckoned about 800 Students.

The Inns of Chancery were heretofore pre∣paratory Colledges for younger Students; where they were usually entred, before they could be admitted into the Inns of Court. Now they are for the most part taken up by Attorneys, Sollicitors, and Clerks; who have here their Chambers apart, and their Diet at an easy rate. Here they eat in a Hall to∣gether, where they are obliged to appear in their Robes, and black round knit Caps.

These Inns belong to the Inns of Court, some to one, some to another. As Bernard's and Staple-Inns to Grays Inn, Thavies and Furnival's to Lincolns-Inn, and the rest to the two Temples. Accordingly the Inns of Court send yearly some of their Barristers to Read in those Colledges, all which one with another contain about 500 Lawyers.

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Cliffords Inn, among the rest, was anciently the House of the Lord Clifford, from whence it is so denominated; Staple Inn belonged to the Merchants of the Staple; and Lyons Inn was anciently a common Inn with the Sign of the Lyon.

But, besides those 8 Inns of Chancery, there is another in Chancery-Lane, known by the Name of Symonds Inn, being formerly a publick Inn kept by one Symond. This is an Inn by it self, belonging to no Inn of Court, nor liv∣ing under any Rules, such as the other Inns live under.

Now 'tis to be observed, that the foresaid Societies are no Corporations, and have no Judicial Power over their Members. Only they have among themselves certain Orders, which by Consent have the force of Laws. Neither have they any Lands or Revenues, as Societies; and, for the defraying the Charges of the House, they have but what is paid at Admittances, and Quit-rents for their Cham∣bers. At the Colledge-Chappel, or Hall, and ll Courts of Judicature, they wear a black Robe and Cap; at other times they walk in Gentlemens Habit. For light Offences they re only Excommoned, and not to eat with the rest. For great Offences they lose their Chambers, and are expelled the Colledge; nd, being once expelled, they are never received by any of the three other Socie∣ties.

But, besides all the foresaid Inns, which re for the Common Law and Chancery, here 〈◊〉〈◊〉 also a Colledge of Civilians, called Doctors ommons. For, though Degrees in the Civil aw may be taken only in Oxford and Cam∣ridge, and the Theory best there to be ac∣quired;

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yet the Practice thereof is most of all in London. Where this Colledge (stand∣ing near S. Paul's, in the Parish of S. Bennets Pauls-Wharf) was founded by Dr. Harvey. Dean of the Arches, for the Professors of the Civil Law in this City. And here did commonly reside the Judge of the Arches, the Judge of the Admiralty, and the Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers other emi∣nent Civilians. From whose living, for Diet and Lodging, in a Collegiate manner, and Commoning together, it got the Name of Doctors Commons. This Colledge, in the time of the great Fire, being involved in the Ru∣ins of the City, they all removed to Exete House in the Strand. Till that being rebuilt, at their own proper Costs and Charges, in a more convenient and splendid manner than before they returned to it. Where they no keep their several Courts and Pleadings every Term.

But London being in a manner an Univer∣sity, there are in it several other Colledges worth our taking notice.

I begin with the Colledge of Physicians, which stood formerly in Knight-Rider Street; and was the Gift of Dr. Linacre, Physician to King Henry VIII. Since which a House and Ground was purchased by the Society of Phy∣sicians at the end of Amen-Street, whereon a stately Structure for a Library and a public Hall was erected by Dr. Harvey, Anno 1652. who indowed the same with his whole In∣heritance, which he resigned while he wa yet living and in health. But this goodly Edifice could not escape the rage of the gr•••• Fire. And that Ground being but a Lease

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the Society purchased a Piece of Ground in Warwick Lane near Newgate, whereon they have raised the present Colledge, a magnifi∣cent Edifice.

The Physicians of this Colledge have, by Charters and Acts of Parliament, such Pri∣viledges as exclude all others (though Gra∣duates in Physick, of Oxford or Cambridge) from practising Physick in London, or with∣in 7 miles of it, without a Licence under the Colledge-Seal. And all Offenders in that Case, and divers others, they may fine, and imprison. They have Authority to search all the Shops of Apothecaries in and about London, to see if their Drugs and Compositi∣ons are wholsom and well made. And, by virtue of the said Charters, they are freed from all troublesom Offices, as to serve upon Juries, to be Constable, to keep Watch and Ward, to bear Arms, or provide Arms or Am∣munition, &c.

This Colledge do's chiefly consist of Fellows and Candidates; besides the honourary Fellows, and Licentiates. The Number of Fellows is always to be forty, besides the King's Physi∣cians. And, when any Fellow dies, or leaves this City, the next Candidate succeeds to make up the Number. But the Candidates, before their Admission, are strictly examined (or at least ought to be so) in all Parts of Physick. The honourary Fellows and Licentiates do both injoy the Priviledges of the Colledge, but have no share in the Government.

The Title of Honourary was first bestowed on some worthy Physicians who were un∣willing or unable to come in by the right Line of Candidates. The Licentiates are such as for want of sufficient Learning, &c. are

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judged unfit to be received into the Num∣ber of Fellows or Candidates. Yet, because they may be serviceable to the Publick, and do good at least in some sorts of Diseases, they are, after due Examination and Appro∣bation, licensed to practise.

Of this Colledge there is a President, four Censors, and eight Elects, who are all prin∣cipal Members of the Society. Out of these one is chosen every Year to preside, and Michaelmas is the Time of Election. But, if the President chance to die before, the eldest Fellow has full power to execute his Place till the next Election. As for the Censors, 'tis their province to look to and correct those Interlopers that practise without Au∣thority. Whose Number in London is great, and yet connived at, according to the Rule, Si Populus vult decipi, decipiatur. But one would wonder there should be so many, considering the Hazard both they and their Patients do run by their Practice. They by the Law of England, which makes it Felony in any one presuming to practise Physick without Authority, whose Patient dies under his hand.

The next Colledge of note is That of the Heralds, commonly called the Heralds Office, being upon S. Bennets Hill, near Doctors Commons. An ancient House, first built by that Earl of Darby who married the Mother of Henry VII, and bestowed by Queen Mary on the Kings Heralds and Pur∣sevants at Arms for ever. The greatest Part of which is rebuilt since the great Fire, which laid it in Ashes. Where some Officers of Arms do give a constant Attendance, to sa∣tisfy all Comers touching Descents, Pedigrees, Coats of Arms, &c.

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Within the Walls of London (in Bishops-Gate Street) is also seated the Colledge call∣ed Gresham Colledge, from his Founder Sir Thomas Gresham, who also built the Royal Exchange. After the Building whereof he gave one Moity of its Revenue to the May∣or and Commonalty of London, and their Successors; the other Moiety, to the Com∣pany of Mercers in trust, that the Mayor and Aldermen should find in all Time to come four able Persons to read within this Col∣ledge Divinity, Geometry, Astronomy, and Musick, allowing each of them (besides their Lodgings) 50 l. a year; and that the Com∣pany of Mercers should find three more able Men to read Civil Law, Physick, and Rhe∣torick, with the same Allowance as to the former. The said Lecturers to read in Term∣time every Day in the Week (except Sun∣days) Aforenoon in Latine, and Afternoon the same in English; the Musick Lecture to be read only in English.

This Colledge is noted besides, for being the Meeting Place of that famous Society of Virtuoso's called the Royal-Society; made a Cor∣poration by virtue of a Charter King Charles II. granted them, bearing date the 22th of A∣pril 1663. It consists of a President, a Coun∣til, and several Fellows; among which there is a Treasurer, two Secretaries, and a Num∣ber of Curators or Experimentors. Their Business is, by Experiments to promote the Knowledge of Natural Things, and usefull Arts; which they have hitherto done in a great measure. For, by the great Number of their Experiments and Inventions, they have mightily improved the Naval, Civil, and Military Architecture, but especially the

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Art of Navigation. They have also incon∣raged Husbandry to that degree, that not on∣ly England, but many other Countries, and even the remotest of our foreign Plantations, feel the sweet effects of it. But, besides those Experiments of Fruit and Profit, they have made many curious Discoveries, such as the learned Lord Bacon calls Experiments of Light. And, if they have not answered to the full the Expectation of some People in point of Usefulness, they have at least very industri∣ously laid a solid Ground-work for future Ages to improve Experimental Know∣ledge.

Therefore King Charles gave them for their Coat of Arms a Scutcheon, with 3 Lyons of England in chief, intimating that the Society was Royal; for the Crest an Eagle, and for the Supporter hunting Hounds, to intimate the Sagacity imployed in penetra∣ting and searching after the Works of Na∣ture. And His Majesty was pleased, for the Credit of the Society, to list himself amongst them.

Their Meeting is upon Wednesdays, at 3 a Clock in the Afternoon. And the Office of the President is to call and dissolve the Meet∣ings, to propose the Matter to be considered of, to put Questions, and call for Experi∣ments, to admit the Members that from time to time shall be elected, &c. The Treasurer receives, and disburses all Moneys. The Se∣cretaries read all Letters and Informations both from England and foreign Parts, directed to the Society, and make such Returns as the Society thinks fit. They take notice of the Orders and material Passages at the Meet∣ings, segister all Experiments, all certain

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Informations, all Conclusions, &c. and publish whatsoever is ordered and allowed by the So∣ciety. Lastly, the Curators are to receive the Directions of the Society, and at another Meeting they bring all to the Test, the Society being Judges thereof. Whereby the World has the concurring Testimony of ma∣ny Persons of undoubted Credit for the Truth of what they publish.

The Council consists of 21 Members, eleven whereof are to be continued for the next Year, and the other ten to be chosen yearly upon the Feast of St. Andrew in the Mor∣ning. After which they all dine together at a Venison-Feast.

The Manner of electing their Fellows is by Ballotting, according to the Venetian way. The Candidate is proposed at one As∣sembly by some that know him well, and the next he may be put to the Scrutiny. To carry it, he must have the major Number of 21 Suffrages at the least. And then at that, or the next Assembly, he may be in∣troduced, and solemnly admitted by the Pre∣sident. At his Admission he subscribes this Promise, That he will indeavour to promote the Good of the Royal Society of London, for the Improvement of Natural Knowledge; pays to the Treasurer only 40 Shillings, and so long as he continues a Member 13 Shillings a Quarter. But he may at any time free him∣self from this Obligation, by signifying under his hand to the President that he desires to withdraw from the Society.

Of this Society there have been all along, and are still, Persons of the highest Rank, and many eminent Gentlemen and Doctors, both English and Foreiners, sober, learned, solid,

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and ingenious Persons. Who, though of diffe∣rent Degrees, Religions, Countries, Professions, Trades, and Fortunes; yet, laying aside all Names of Distinction, have united together, amicably to promote Experimental Know∣ledge. Among which I cannot but make par∣ticular mention of the Honourable Mr. Ro∣bert Boyl, the Glory of England, and the O∣racle of Europe in point of Philosophy.

In this Colledge is the Repository, consisting of many Rarities of Nature, some of 'em brought from the furthest Corners of the World. Such as Beasts, Birds, Fishes, Ser∣pents, Flies, Shells, Feathers, Seeds, Minerals, Mummies, Gums, some things petrify'd, o∣thers Ossify'd, &c.

The last Colledge I am to speak of is another also within London, called Sion Colledge, near Cripplegate. Founded by Thomas White, Doctor in Divinity, for the Use of the Cler∣gy of London, and the Liberties thereof; and part for 20 poor People. To perform all which he gave 3000 l; and for the main∣tenance of those Poor, he settled 120 l. a year for ever. Besides 40 l. a year for a Sermon in Latine, at the beginning of every Quarter, and a plentifull Dinner for all the Clergy that shall then meet there.

In this Colledge (now repaired, since the dreadfull Fire) is a fair spacious Library, built by John Sympson Rector of St. Olaves Heart-street, and one of the said Founder's Executors. Which Library, by the Bounty o divers Benefactors, has been well furnished with Books, especially such as relate to Di∣vinity.

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There are likewise in London divers Pub∣lick Schools indowed, as St. Pauls, Merchant Taylors, Mercers Chappel, &c. which in other Countries would be stiled Colledges. But e∣specially Paul's School, a commodious and state∣ly Building at the East end of St. Paul's Ca. thedral. Founded in the Year 1512. by John Collet, Dr. of Divinity, and Dean of St. Pauls, for 153 Children to be taught there gratis. For which purpose he appointed a Master, a Sub-Master or Usher, and a Chaplain, with large Stipends for ever; committing the Oversight thereof to the Ma∣sters, Wardens, and Assistants of the Mercers in London, his Father Henry Collet (some∣time Lord Mayor of London) having been of their Company.

Moreover, for the Correction of Vagabonds, and other Persons of a loose Life and Con∣versation, there are several Work-houses. The principal of which is Bridewell near Fleet-Bridge. A stately Building, first built by King Henry VIII. for the Reception of the Em∣perour Charles the fifth, but since converted to this Use. And, for Trying of Malefactors, there is in the Old-Baily the Sessions-House, which may go with the rest among the Ornaments of this glorious City, as unplea∣sant as it is to many people that are there tried for their Lives.

Within the Precincts of Westminster are also many Things worthy our Observati∣on.

I begin with Whitehall, belonging hereto∣fore to Cardinal Woolsey, and since his Time become the usual Place of Residence of the English Monarchs. 'Tis seated betwixt the

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Thames on the East and a fine Park on the West, amidst the Pleasures of the Water, and the Charms of a fine spacious Spot of Ground. The River of one side affording a great deal of Variety by the Multitude of Boats that cover it; the Park on the other side charming the Eye with its delicate Walks, well gravelled and as well shadowed, parted with a fine Canal in the middle, and this fronted with a brazen Statue, which for cu∣rious Workmanship is admired by Artists themselves.

As for Whitehall it self, I confess its out∣ward Appearance is not great, but it is very convenient, and more glorious within than without. And yet the Chamber at the front of it, called the Banquetting-House, is such a Piece of Building as for Spaciousness, Beau∣ty, Painting, and exact Proportion, is not to be parallelled by any King in Europe; the Cieling whereof was all painted by the hand of the famous Sir Peter Paul Rubens. Here is also, besides the Protestant Chappel, a neat one built by the late King James for his Use, which by the Grace of God ly's now dormant. And in one of the Courts stands his Brazen Statue, which has had bet∣ter luck than that of Newcastle upon Tine.

On the North-West side of the Park is an∣other Royal Pallace, called St. James, which gives name to the Park. In the Strand is another Pallace, called Somerset-House, where the Queen Dowager resides, and keeps her Dourt. This was built by Edward, Duke of Somerset, Uncle to King Edward the fixth.

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But the Glory of Westminster is the Abbey-Church there, founded before the Norman Conquest by King Edward the Confessour, and most richly indowed; afterwards rebuilt from the Ground by King Henry III. This huge Fabrick stands on that piece of Ground which formerly was called Thorney-Island; then sur∣rounded with Water, and where of old stood a Temple dedicated to Apollo. In this Church is usually performed the Coronation of our Kings, with that Pomp and Magni∣ficence as becomes such potent Monarchs. On the East end of it is Henry the Sevenths Chappel, built by that King with admirable artificial Work both within and without. And here are the Tombs and Monuments of several of our Kings and Queens, among which that of massy Brass is so curiously wrought, that it is scarcely to be parallelled.

The Abbey was converted into a Collegi∣ate Church by Queen Elizabeth, who pla∣ced therein a Dean, and 12 Prebendaries; besides about 30 petty Canons and others, belonging to the Quire. The Dean is in∣trusted with the Custody of the Regalia at the Coronation, and honoured with a Place of necessary Service at all Coronations.

Adjoyning to this Church is a famous School and Colledge called Westminster School, a Seminary for the Universities. The Colledge consists of 40 Scholars, commonly called Kings Scholars; who, being chosen out of the School, and put into the Colledge, are there maintained. And, as they are fitted for the University, they are yearly elected away, and placed with good Allowances in Christ-Church Colledge in Oxford, and Trinity College in Cambridge.

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Here is also in the Cloysters a fair publick Library, free for all Strangers to study both Morning and Afternoon always in Term∣time.

Next this Church stood the Royal Pallace of the Kings of England, a great Part where∣of was burnt down in the Time of Henry VIII. What remained has still been imploy'd for the Use of the Lords and Commons as∣sembled in Parliament, and for the chief Courts of Judicature. The great Hall where these are kept, commonly called Wesiminster-Hell, is 270 foot in length, and 74 in breadth, for its Dimensions not to be equalled by any Hall in Christendom. And were it set out according to its Greatness and the Dignity of the Courts that are kept there, it might pass for one of the most remarkable Build∣ings in Europe. Erected, as some say, by King William Rufus; or, according to others, by Richard II, about 30 years ago.

But this is not all that Westminster affords worh our taking notice. The Brazen Statue of King Charles I, at Charing-Cross, the New Exchange, and Exeter Change in the Strand, the Savoy once a famous Hospital, several Noblemens Houses more like Princely Pallaces (such as Montague, Berkley, Wall∣ingford, Southampton, and Northumberland House) the New Buildings raised from York, Arundel, Worcester, Essex, Newport, and Clarendon-House. Those of Sohoe, which alone might make a good large City, and many more too numerous to insist upon; All these, together with so many fine Piazza's or Squares I have already mentioned, are enough (if

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duly considered) to raise the Admiration of all Strangers.

But, for a publick Building of a late Erection, 'tis worth our while to step out of the Way, and take a View of Chelsey-Hspital. Begun by Charles II. continued by King James his Brother, and brought to perfection by our present King and Queen; for the Refuge and Maintenance of poor and disabled Souldiers that have faithfully served their King and Country. A stately Pile, which in some respects outdo's, in others is out done by the famous Hotel des Invalides at Pa∣ris.

As for the Government of London and Westminster, the City of London, with the Liberties thereof, is governed in chief as to Civil Affairs, by a MAYOR, with the Title of Lord prefixt, given to no Mayor in England but that of London, and of late to the Mayor of York. In the Time of the Romans, he was called Prefect of London; in the Saxons time, Port-greeve, and sometimes Provost of London; and, after the Coming in of the Normans, Bayliff. 'Twas King Richard I, who in the Year 1189 (being the first of his Reign) changed the Name of Bayliff into that of Mayor, a French Word originally; which has continued ever since.

This great and mighty Magistrate is yearly chosen by the Citizens, upon Michaelmas Day, the 29th of September. The Body out of which he is chosen are the 26 Aldermen, all Persons of great Wealth and Wisdom, at least ought so to be. Those that chuse him are first the Livory-men, or Members of the several Companies of Tradesmen within the City,

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and at last the Aldermen; which is done in this manner. First, the Livery-Men do usu∣ally put up four Candidates, out of which they chuse two by the Plurality of Voices; and, out of these two, the Court of Alder∣men select whom they think fit. And, though they be free in their Choice, yet commonly they have a regard for the Senior Alderman that has not been Lord Mayor, and give him the Precedence.

The Mayor Elect being Proclaimed, is sworn first at Guildhall, and afterwards at Westmin∣ster. There he swears to maintain the Pri∣viledges of the People; and here, to be True to the King.

The Installation-Day is the 29th of October, a Month after the Election. The Solemnity of which Day upon his Account is so great, that no Magistrate in Europe appears with so much state and grandure as the Mayor of London upon his Installation. First, he go's by water to Westminster in his Barge of state, accompanied with the Aldermen in all their Formalities, with their Scarlet Robes and Chains of gold hanging before their Breasts. The Twelve Companies also, in their several Barges, et out with their Arms, Colours, and Screamers on both sides, attend him in their furred Gowns. In his way he is saluted from the Shore with the noise of great Guns; and, as he passes by Whitehall, the King from thence viewing the Solemnity gives him and his Brethren a Mark of his Respect. At last being landed at Westminster Bridge, the seve∣ral Companies march in order to their Hall, and after them the Mayor and Aldermen, with the Sword and Mace before them, the Sword∣bearer with his Cap of Maintenance on his

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head. At their Entrance into the Hall, the Hall is Intertained with the harmonious Mu∣sick of a Set of Hoboys, marching in order before them, and playing all the Way. First they walk round the Hall, where they pay their respects to each Court of Judicature; and from the Hall they proceed to the Exche∣quer-Chamber, where the New Lord Mayor is Sworn by the Barons. This done, they walk again in Procession round the Hall, to invite the several Judges of each Court to Dinner at Guildhall. And, after this, the whole Procession returns in the same man∣ner by Water to Black-Friars. From whence the Lord Mayor and Aldermen make their Cavalcade to Guildhall, all mounted upon Horses richly Caparisoned; the Livery-Men marching before in good order. And now the Artillery men make their best appearance, with their Buff-coats and Head-pieces. But the most diverting Sight is that of the Pageants, here and there in motion to divert the Spectators. At last a most splendid Din∣ner, to which, besides the Judges, many of the great Lords and Ladies, the Privy Coun∣sellours, the forein Embassadors, and often∣times the King and Queen are invited, con∣cludes the Solemnity.

Such is the Magnificence of the Lord Mayor of London, though always a Citizen and Tradesman, being a Member of one of the 12 Companies. Who, for his great Dignity, is usually Knighted by the King, before the Year of his Mayoralty be expired; unless he had received that Honour before, whilst he was an Alderman, as of late has been ∣shal.

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His Authority reaches, not only all over this great City and part of the Suburbs, (except some particular Places) but also on the Thames as far as the Mouth of it, and Westward as far as Stanes-Bridge.

And so great is his Power, that he may cause any Person inhabiting within London, or the Liberties thereof, to be Summoned to appear before him, upon the Complaint of any Citizen; and, for Non-appearance, may grant his Warrant to bring such Person before him. For he has Power to determine Differ∣ences between Party and Party.

His Attendance, whilst he is a Mayor, is very considerable. For, besides his proper Servants, first he has four principal Officers that wait on him as Lord Mayor, who are reputed Esquires by their Places. And those are the Sword-bearer, the Common Hunt, the Common Crier, and the Water-Bayliff; whose Places are very advantageous, and purchased (when vacant) at a great rate from the Lord Mayor for the time being. Besides them, there is the Coroner, 3 Sergeants Carvers, 3 Sergeants of the Chamber, 1 Sergeant of the Channel, 4 Yeomen of the Waterside, 1 Ʋnder Water-Bayliff, 2 Yeomen of the Chamber, 3 Meal∣Weighers, 2 Yeomen of the Wood-Wharf, and several others. Most of which have Servants allowed them, with Livories. Among which the Sword-bearer has a 1000 l. a Year allow∣ed him for his Table in the Lord Mayor's House.

When he appears abroad on horseback (which is his usual Appearance) 'tis with rich Caparison, and always in long Robes, sometimes of fine Scarlet-Cloth richly furred, sometimes Purple, and sometimes Puke, with

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a black Velvet Hood over his Robes, and a great Chain of Gold (with a rich Jewel to it) hanging from his Neck downwards. At∣tended by several Officers walking before, and on both sides of him.

He keeps an open Table all the Year to all Comers of any quality; and so well fur∣nished, that it is always fit to receive the greatest Subject of England, or of any other Po∣tentate. He has a Priviledge to hunt, not only in Middlesex, but also in Essex and Sur∣rey, and for this purpose has a Kennel of Hounds always maintained. On the King's Coronation-Day he claims to be the chief Butler, and bears the King's Cup among the highest Nobles of the Kingdom which serve on that Day in other Offices. And, upon the King's Death, he is said to be the prime Person of England. Therefore, when King James I, was invited to come and take the Crown of England, Robert Lee, then May∣or of London, subscribed in the first place, before all the Officers of the Crown, and all the Nobility.

One Thing is observable, which hapned not long since. I mean four Mayors the City had in little more than half a Year; viz. Sir John Shorter, Sir John Eyles, Sir John Chapman, and Sir Thomas Pilkington. For, upon the Death of the first in September 1688, Sir John Eyles was made Lord Mayor; and in October fol∣lowing, the Charter being restored, Sir John Chapman was chosen Lord Mayor. Who dying in March following, Sir Thomas Pilkington was chosen in his room. In whose Person the Chance is turned almost quite contra∣ry. For, if he do's outlive the Time appointed for his Mayoralty by his late

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Re-election, instead of being Mayor but one Year, according to the usual Course, his Mayoralty will reach near two Years and a half.

Next to the Lord Mayor there are

  • 26 Aldermen,
  • A Recorder,
  • Two Sheriffs,
  • A Chamberlain.

Besides the Ʋnder-Sheriffs, the Town-Clerk (or Common Clerk,) and a Remembrancer, these two last being both Esquires by their Places.

The 26 Aldermen preside over the 26 Wards of the City, a peculiar Alderman being as∣signed to every Ward. Who has under him a certain Number of Common-Council-Men, and one of them his Deputy; besides Consta∣bles, Scavengers, Beadles, &c. Now the Aldermen who have been Lord Mayors, and the three eldest Aldermen that have not yet arrived to that honourable estate, are by the City-Charter Justices of Peace of the City. Upon the Death of an Alderman, the Lord Mayor issues out his Precept to the Ward whereof he was Alderman, to chuse two substantial Men of the City, and return their Names to the Court of Aldermen. Which being done, the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen select one of the two, such as they judge fittest for that Station.

The Recorder is usually a grave and learned Lawyer, well versed in the Laws and Customs of the City, and in that Capacity is an As∣sistant to the Lord Mayor. He takes his place in Councils, and in Court, before any Man that has not been Mayor; and 'tis he that de∣livers the Sentences of the whole Court.

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The two Sheriffs of this City are also She∣riffs of the County of Middlesex. They are yearly chosen in the Guildhall on Midsummer-Day, by the Livery-Men of the respective Companies, that is, by the Citizens from a∣mong themselves. A high Priviledge, consi∣dering the Importance of this Magistracy, e∣specially in their power of Impanelling Juries. Yet my Lord Mayor by his Prerogative may drink to any Citizen, and nominate him to be one of the Sheriffs; In which Case the Usage has been for the Commons to confirm such a Person, and to elect another to serve with him. However, the new-chosen Sheriffs are not sworn till Michaelmas Eve, and till then they do not enter upon their Office. If any of the Parties chosen refuse to hold, he in∣ours a Penalty of 450 l. unless he do take his Oath, that he is not worth ten thousand pounds.

Each Sheriff has under him an Ʋnder-She∣riff, and six Clerks, viz. a Secondary, a Clerk of the Papers, and four other Clerks. He has also a certain Number of Sergeants, and every Sergeant a Yeoman. The Ʋnder-Sheriffs have also Clerks under them.

The Chamberlain is an Officer of great Power in the City. For without him no man can set up Shop, or follow his Trade without being sworn before him; neither can one be bound an Apprentice to any Tradesman, but by his Licence. He may Imprison any that disobey's his Summons, or anv Apprentice that misdemeans himself, or else he may punish him in another man∣ner.

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But these are only general Notions of the chief Officers and Magistrates of London; for the Particulars, I refer you to the Courts of Judicature, in my Third Part.

In relation to Trade, which is the Life of this City, the Traders thereof are divided in∣to Companies, which are so many Bodies Po∣litique, all injoying large Privileges granted by former Kings unto them.

Those Companies are in all about 70, twelve whereof are called the Chief Compa∣nies. Viz.

  • The Mercers,
  • The Grocers,
  • The Drapers,
  • The Fishmongers,
  • The Goldsmiths,
  • The Skinners,
  • The Merchant Taylors
  • The Haberdashers,
  • The Salters,
  • The Iron-Mongers,
  • The Vintners,
  • The Cloth-Workers.

Each Company (or Mystery) has a Master yearly chosen from among themselves; and other subordinate Governours, called War∣dens, and Assistants. Such is the Harmony of this Government, that these Companies do exactly correspond to the general Govern∣ment of the City by a Lord Mayor and Com∣mon Council, who are selected out of these several Companies. For he that is chosen Lord Mayor must be free of one of these 12 Companies; and, if he be of any other Company, he presently removes to one of these. Which have got so great Credit and Reputation in the World, that several Kings have honoured some of them by taking their Freedom thereof. The present King was late∣ly pleased to accept of the Freedom of the

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Company of Grocers; presented to Him in a golden Box in the Name of the City by Mr. Box; upon which he was Knighted by His Majesty.

In short, such are the Priviledges of the Citizens of London, that they are Toll-free throughout England. And the Lord Mayor usually, at the Request of any Citizen that trades in remote Parts, grants him his War∣rant or Certificate.

They have also the Priviledge to keep out all Artificers and Handicraftsmen not free of the City. So that if a Freeman of London do imploy any such to work within the City or Liberties, he is liable to the Forfeiture of 5 l. a Day, and an Action lies against him for the same. An Alien indeed may be imploy'd six Weeks, but no longer. And how severe soever this may seem to Foreiners, yet it is grounded upon Equity. For were it not for that Priviledge, here would be such a Con∣course of Foreiners, that it would prove (as it has by Experience) the utter undoing of a great Number of poor Citizens and Free∣men, whose Livelyhood depends upon their Handicrafts.

Another great Priviledge they have, is their sending no less than four Members to Par∣liament, which is twice the Number of other Cities and Borough-Towns in England. And it is observable, that their Members do usu∣ally appear in their Scarlet-Robes the first Day the Parliament sits, when all other Mem∣bers (except the Speaker of the House) ap∣pear in their usual Habit.

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Thus the Lord Mayor of London, under the gracious Influences of the English Mo∣narchs, makes a Figure more like a Prince than a Subject. And the Citizens of London, though under the same general Government as all the rest of the Kings Subjects, yet live within themselves, blest with so many Advan∣tages, that I can compare them no better than to the old Citizens of Rome under the best of their Emperours.

And indeed the main Thing which has in∣couraged Trade here to that degree as to ren∣der this Place so rich and flourishing, is the great Charters, Priviledges, and Immunities it is invested with, by the Munificence of several of the former Kings. Whereby the Londoners are Impowered to chuse their own Magistrates, to do themselves Justice, to main∣tain their own Peace, and pursue all the good and advantagious Ends of Trade, with the better Success and greater Security. In or∣der to which they keep within them∣selves many Courts and Councils, where they make Laws for the better Govern∣ment of the several Ranks and Orders of Men among them. And, though these grand Priviledges were judged to be for∣feited by the Court of Kings Bench upon the Quo Warranto brought in at the latter end of Charles II his Reign, and a new Charter granted the City, but with several Restrictions of great moment; yet that Judgement was Reversed upon their late Application to the Parliament, and their ancient Charter Con∣firmed. So that Things run now, as they did before that Judgment, in their proper Channel.

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For Military Affairs, the City of London is a Lieutenancy of it self. So that the Power of a Lord Lieutenant is in the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, and other principal Members of the City, for the Time being. Who, by a peculiar Commission from His Ma∣jesty, are authorized to act as his Lieutenants in London, for the ordering the City-Mi∣litia, with the same Power that the Lord Lieutenants have in their respective Coun∣ties.

Now the City-Militia consists of 6 Regi∣ments of Foot, making about 90000 men; besides the Hamlets of the Tower 2 Regiments, and the Regiment of Southwark. To which if we add the Militia of Westminster, consist∣ing of 2 Regiments, called Holborn and West∣minster, each of 2000 men, we find in all eleven Regiments. But, in case of Necessity the Auxiliaries are raised, consisting of Ap∣prentices, which make up six Regiments more; every Freeman that has two Apprentices find∣ing one for that purpose.

To supply the City Train-Bands and Auxiliary men with Commanders, there is a Nursery of Souldiers, called the Artillery Com∣pany, of above 60 Years standing. This Company consists of 600 choice men, com∣manded in chief by the King, and under his Majesty by a Leader. Who exercises this Company every Tuesday fortnight in the Artillery-Ground, a spacious Place near Moorfields, inclosed for that purpose with a fair Brick-Wall. And the other Tuesday the Exercise is performed by the several Mem∣bers of the Company, who are there trained up to command, most of them being Com∣manders of the Train-Bands. They have a

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Court-Marshal, consisting of a President, Vice-President, Colonel, and 24 Members of the Company. On the second Tuesday in February is their general Rendezvous every Year, when they chuse their Officers. Which, besides the Leader, are two Lieutenants, 2 Ensigns, 2 Sergeants, a Provost Marshal, 3 Gentlemen of Arms, &c.

The Church-Government is by the Bishop of London. The Parishes whereof, for the most part provided with able and eminent Divines under the Title of Rector or Vicar, are under his Jurisdiction.

And, for maintaining these Divines, with their Families, there is in most Parishes a Parsonage, or Vicarage-House, with a yearly Allowance, besides the Perquisites arising from Christenings, Marriages, and Burials. Which Allowance, since the Reformation, falls much short of what it was in the time of Popery; when, besides the Tythes of the Trades∣mens Gains, the Mortuaries, Obits, &c. the Priest (tho' in a state of Celibacy) had 3 shillings and 5 pence in the pound of the yearly Rent of all the Houses and Shops in his Parish. Which afterwards was brought to 2 shillings, 9 pence in the pound, by an Act of Parliament under the Reign of Hen∣ry VIII, and that confirmed by a subsequent Act. But, since the Reformation, this being lookt upon as too large an Allowance, it has been so curtailed, that 'twill be hard to bring back that golden Age. 'Tis true under the Reign of Charles II. a Regulation was made by Act of Parliament, but it concerned only those Parishes, whose Churches had been demo∣lished by the dreadfull Fire. And, according

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to the several Extents of Parishes, the Par∣sons thereof, by virtue of that Act, have a certain yearly Allowance, none under 100 Pounds, and none above 200; but most be∣tween one and two hundred Pounds. The same to be raised, in lieu of Tythe, within the said respective Parishes, by rating the Hou∣ses and Shops therein proportionably to their respective Rents. As to those Parishes all over the City and Suburbs where there is, besides the Parson, a Lecturer, he has his maintenance no otherwise than by a voluntary Contribution from the Parishio∣ners.

As for the City of Westminster, the Dean and Chapter are invested with all man∣der of Jurisdiction, both Civil and Ecclesia∣stical; not only within the City of West∣minster, but also in other Places of their Ju∣risdiction, as the Precincts of S. Martin le Grand within the Walls of London, and some Towns in Essex. The Dean in particular has a Commission of Peace within the City and Liberties of Westminster.

The principal Officer in it, called the High Steward of Westminster, is usually one of the prime Nobility. Under whom there is a De∣puty Steward, then the Bayliff, and the two high Burgesses, these chosen every Year.

Within the Precincts of Westminster, but chiefly near the Court, the Nobility and Gen∣try take up for the most part their Quarters. But the proper Station of the Lawyers is in their Inns, between the City and the Court; and that of Merchants and Seamen, in and a∣bout the East-end of the City.

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Thus you have a short Description of the famous City of London, the Metropolis of England, the Seat of the British Empire, the Epitome and Glory of this Kingdom. A City which for Greatness, Beauty, Conveni∣encies, Plenty of Provisions, Commerce, Riches, and good Government, is inferiour to none beyond Sea. 'Tis a Magazine of all sorts of Commodities, necessary or expedient for the Use or Pleasure of Mankind. The great Rendez-vous of the Nobility, Gentry, Cour∣tiers, Divines, Lawyers, Physicians, Mer∣chants, Seamen, of the best Artificers, the most refined Wits, and the greatest Beauties of the Land.

For a constant Supply of Provisions, here are abundance of Markets, the best furnished of any in Christendom; but especially Leaden-Hall-Market, near the Royal Exchange in the City, the greatest Flesh-Market about the City, and a great Magazine of Corn. So that there is scarce a great City in Europe, where poor People, or such as love a frugal Life, may live cheaper, or the splendid Liver, gallanter.

To get a Livelyhood, and raise himself in the World, no Place like this; by Me∣chanick or Liberal Arts, by Merchandizing, Offices, Preferments, &c.

For Conveniencies and Delight, here all is at hand; and scarce any Thing wanting, that Money can purchase. In point of So∣ciety, here learned and unlearned, high and low, rich and poor, good and bad, may fit themselves any where.

And this I must needs say to the Praise of London, that, there is not a Place in Eu∣rope of such a vast Confluence of all sorts of

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People, where Murders and Outrages, so fre∣quent in great and populous Cities beyond Sea, are so seldom heard of. Which argues a great deal of Wisdom in the Magistrate, that so great a Body should be kept in so good Order.

William the Conquerour, to prevent Disorders and Mischiefs in the Night, commanded that in every Town and Village a Bell (called Curfew-Bell, a Corrupt Word from the French Couvre-feu) should be rung every Night at 8 of the Clock, and that all people should then put out their Fire and Candle. This continued in his Reign, and that of his next Successor William Rufus. But Henry I. revoked that Order; and Henry III. Anno 1253. command∣ed Watches to be kept in Cities and Boroughs, for the Preservation of Peace and Quietness among his Subjects.

Therefore there are in the respective Streets of London to this day convenient Stations for the Watchmen; who are to examine all Persons walking in unseasonable Hours, and to secure till next Day such as are either sus∣picious or riotous. And then they bring them before a Justice of Peace, who deals with them according to the Merit of the Cause. Thus Murders, Robberies, Felonies, Fires, and other Evils, are oftentimes pre∣vented; which could not be avoided in so great and populous a Place, where a great many wicked People ly lurking for Mischief. This Duty of Watching is commonly perform∣ed by Men hired for that purpose, and paid for't by the Citizens, under the Command of a Constable, assisted by the Eeadle of the Parish. In case of a publick Riot, the King usually sends a Party of his Gards to sup∣press

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it; and, if occasion requires, part of the Militia is raised.

But, to draw to a Conclusion, if we cast our Eyes upon the vast Traffick and Com∣merce, whereby this Place is become so flou∣rishing, it will every where afford matter of Admiration. The same does plainly appear by the Customs yearly paid for all Merchan∣dise Imported and Exported, by the great Wealth of many Citizens, by the infinite Number of Shops both in the City and Su∣burbs for the Retailing Trade, and lastly by the incredible Abundance of Apprentices which are here brought up to all manner of Trades.

The Customs for this City alone (tho' ve∣ry moderate, in comparison of most other Places in Europe) did lately amount to near 400000 l. a Year. The Wealth of the Citi∣zens so vast, that some of 'em, for great E∣states in Mony, &c. excel some Princes be∣yond Sea; and live accordingly in great state and plenty, few so penuriously as most of the Dutch Merchants do. The Number of Shops both in the City and Suburbs so great, and indeed so far beyond that of any forei City, that it is to Strangers a just Matter of Amazement. Proportionable to which is That of the Apprentices, reckoned to be at least forty thousand.

Now this great Trade of the Londoners runs into three several Streams, 1. among them∣selves, 2 in the Country, and 3 beyond Sea, of which in my second Part.

Only I shall observe here, that the vast Trade of this Place has chiefly occasioned that great Appearance in it of Pictures in the

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Air, a Thing taken particular notice of at the first view by Strangers. I mean the Multi∣tude of Signs which hang before the Houses; many of them very rich and costly, and all together yielding a fine Prospect.

But, on the other side, its frequent Dirt in Winter, and Dust in Summer, are two such Nusances as take off very much from the Glory of it. And yet both of them might with ease be Remedied, and will (I hope) in time. For, in point of Cleanness, few Towns are better Seated than London is, standing upon an easy Ascent from the River. And the Allowance for it from each House∣keeper is so considerable, that one would think it enough to keep it cleaner than it is. But the Truth is, there's a sort of Chy∣mists, that can extract Gold out of Dirt. And I conjecture the less Care has been ta∣ken to take off that Reproach from so noble a City, because of the two great Conve∣niences it has to go free from the Dirt from one End of it to the other, that is, by Land in Coaches, and by Water in Boats. Besides that the principal Streets, and most of the New Buildings, are paved a good conveni∣ent Breadth on each side with smooth hewn Stone, for the benefit of Foot-Passengers. Which is a great Commodiousness, as well as an Ornament.

I conclude, as to Loudon, with three no∣table Conveniencies it has, not elsewhere to be found; Viz. the New Lights, the Peny-Post, and the Insurance-Office for Houses in case of Fire.

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The New Lights is so ingenious and usefull an Invention, that Mr. Edmund Heming the Inventor deserves an immortal Praise for it. He brought it to light about 6 Years ago, with a Patent from King Charles II, for the Injoyment of the Profits thereof. And such is the Reflexion of these Lights, tho' at a good distance from each other, that few of them serve to light a whole Street in the Night, better than ten times the Number of Glass Lanthorns. For, by the regular Position of one of them before the Front of every tenth House on each side of a broad Street, there is such a mutual Re∣flection, that they all seem to be but one great solar Light.

And so cheap is this Conveniency, that for five Shillings down and five Shillings a Year for five Years, to be paid at two Quar∣terly Payments, the Inventor obliges himself to light the Front of ones House from Mi∣chaelmas to Lady Day every Night from six to twelve, beginning the third Night after every Full-Moon, and ending the sixth Night after every New Moon, which is in all 120 Nights.

The Peny-Post is such a Contrivance, that for one Peny a Letter, or Parcel not ex∣ceeding one pound Weight, or ten pounds in value, is presently conveyed from all Parts of the Town and Suburbs to the remotest Places thereof. And it has been so far im∣proved, since the first settling of it, as to reath ten miles about London. He that sends pays the Peny; nd, when the Letter or Parcel goes beyond the Bounds of the Weekly Bills of Mortality, the Receiver pays another Peny.

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To carry on this usefull Design, first there are about the Town four or five hundred Hou∣ses to take in Letters and Parcels. And, to convey them according to their Directi∣ons, there are about 100 messengers imploy∣ed from Morning to Night, to call every Hour at the said Houses, and take what Let∣ters and Parcels they find there. Who carry the same to their respective Offices, from whence the Letters and Parcels are dispatch∣ed away according to their Directions. The Offices are six in Number; Viz.

  • The General Office.
  • St. Paul's Office.
  • The Temple Office.
  • Westminster Office.
  • Soutwark Office.
  • The Hermitage Office.

The General Office is in Star-Court in Corn∣hill, and has 3 Clerks belonging to it; where∣as the rest have but two Clerks each.

The whole Concern is managed in chief by three Persons, a Comptroller, an Accomptant, and a Receiver. Every one of the Messengers, imployed in the bringing in and carrying out of Letters, gives 50 l. Security by Bond to the Office for his Fidelity. And for this Contrivance the Publick is indebted to that ingenious Citizen of London, Mr. William Dockwrea, who settled it some Years since, not without much trouble and cost. But the late King, when Duke of York, sued him for the lame, as his Right, and carried it from the Inventor. So that the Benefit of it is now inherent in the Crown.

The Insurance Office for Houses in case of Fire is also an Invention worth our taking notice. To Insure, for example, 100 l. upon a Brick∣house,

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the Rates are 6 Shillings for one Year, 12 for two Years, 18 for three Years; and double for a Timber-house. But, if any Insure for four Years, there is a Discount allowed for paying down the Mony, so that he pays but three Years and a Quarter; and propor∣tionably five for seven, seven for eleven Years Insurance. And, as often as the House is Burnt, or Demolished by reason of Fire, within the Term Insured, the Mony Insured on the House is to be paid; but, if only Damaged, then to be Repaired at the Charge of the Office. For the security of which Payment, the Office has a Fund to the Value of 60000 l. in Ground-Rents of Inheritance (which is above 2600 l. per annum) to answer Los∣ses and Damages; and settled on Twelve Gentlemen Trustees, by many of the most eminent Counsel at Law.

This Ingenious and Usefull Invention was first put into practice about 8 Years since, and has deservedly met with good Incourage∣ment, insomuch that there are now above 7300 Houses Insured. The Office is kept on the Back-side of the Royal-Exchange, and at the Rainbow Coffee-house by the Inner-Temple Gate in Fleetstreet.

Now, to put a present stop, as far as is possible, to any suden Fire, there are be∣longing to the Office a great many stout and lusty Servants in Livery with Badges, dwelling in several parts of the City, and always to be ready on all Occasions of sud∣den Fires. Who, in such Cases, do common∣ly expose themselves to the utmost Hazards, and with great Dexterity labour to suppress the Fire.

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There is also another Office of Insuring of Houses, called the Friendly Society, by a mutual Contribution agreed to by the Trustees; That every Member of that Society shall pay year∣ly at the Office, before hand, only one shil∣ling four pence for every 100 l. secured up∣on Timber-houses by way of Praemium. By this Office there are likewise a great many Houses secured.

To conclude, the Arms of the City of Lon∣don are Argent, a Cross Gules, with the Swerd of St. Paul.

CHAP. XIX.

Of OXFORD, and CAM∣BRIDGE.

FROM the great hurry of Trade in London I come now to the quiet Seats of the Muses, the two famous Uni∣versities of the Land, Oxford and Cam∣bridge.

Oxford.

OXFORD, or Oxon, the principal Place of Oxfordshire, which from hence takes its De∣nomination, bears from London West-North-West, and is distant therefrom 47 miles, thus. From London to Ʋxbridge, 15; to Beaconfield, 7 more; thence to Wickham, 5; to Stoken-Church, 5 more; from thence to Wheat∣ly-Bridge, 9; and to Oxford, 6 more.

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'Tis finely seated, for health, for pleasure▪ and plenty, at the Influx of the Charwell in∣to the Isis; where this divides it self into several Streams, wherewith and the Charwell most part of the City is incompassed. But, for the Conveniency of its Inhabitants, here are several Bridges.

This is so ancient a City, as to fetch her Original from the Time of the Britains. So large, as to contain 13 Parish-Churches, besides the Cathedral. And so beautifull, that whether one looks on the compacted U∣niformity of private Houses, or the Magnifi∣cence of the publick Structures, it must be allowed to be a fair and goodly City.

Besides the Glory of being a most fa∣mous University, it is honoured with a Bi∣shops See, founded by King Henry VIII. An∣no 1541. and has been dignify'd above 500 years successively with the Title of an Earl∣dom in twenty of the noble Family of the Veres. The first that injoyed it was Aubrey de Vere, created Earl of Oxford by Henry II. Anno 1155. In whose Line it continues to this day in the person of the Right Honoura∣ble Aubrey de Vere, the present Earl of Ox∣ford.

As it is an University, this may be said o it in general, without immodesty, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 hope without dislike or envy, That for th stateliness of the Schools and publick Libra∣ry, the bravery and beauty of particular Co∣ledges all built of fair and polished Stone the liberal Indowments of those Houses and notable Incouragements of Industr and Learning in the Salary of the Professo in most Arts and Sciences, it is not to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 parallelled in the Christian World; and for th

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Number of Students, and the well ordering of them by good Laws and Ordinances, not to be equalled by any but her Sister Cam∣bidge.

That Oxford has been for many Ages a Place of publick Studies, is a Thing past all doubt. But it is true withal, that there has been a Time of Decay; when this City sharing with the rest of the Land in those common Calamities brought by the Saxons and Danes, the Muses were dispersed, and shifted for themselves. Alfred, the learned Sa∣ron King of England, was he that recalled them; who, having intirely subjected the irk∣som Danes to his Government, made it his business to restore this University, and re∣pair the Ruins thereof. And, the better to in∣vite Students to Oxford, he sent thither his Son Ethelward, which dr•••••• the young Nobles from all Parts to Oxford. This came to pass about the latter end of the ninth Cen∣tury. Then Oxford began to flourish again, and by degrees to grow to what it is.

But, as now in Leyden and many other forein Universities, so anciently in Oxford the Students lived in Citizens Houses, having only Meeting Places to hear Lectures and Disputations, and that without any distincti∣on of Habit. After that, there were divers Houses (now called Halls) for Students only to live together in Society, as now the Inns of Court and of Chancery at London. A∣mongst which some afterwards Indowed by the bounty of divers Patrons of Learning; who thought best to settle for ever plenti∣tiful Revenues in Lands and Houses, in order to maintain such Students as by merit and worth should from time to time be chosen,

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and to settle large Salaries for Professors to inftruct 'em, and for a Head to govern them, according to certain Statutes and Ordinances made by the said Patrons or Founders. And these are the Colledges, whereof the first thus Indowed in Europe were Ʋniversity, Baliol, and Merton Colledges.

In short, there are in Oxford 18 of such Indowed Colledges, and 7 Halls. In which Halls the Students live with the same Disci∣pline as those in the Colledges, but upon their own Means, except certain Exhibitions (or annual Pensions) annext to one or two of them. The Names of the Colledges, and their Founders, together with the Time of their Foundation, you have in the following Table.

Colledges, Founded by, Anno
Ʋniversity King Alfred. 872.
Baliol Jo. Balol Knight and Deb. his Wife. 1263.
Merton Walter de Merton, Clerk. 1267.
Exeter Wa'ter Stapleton, Earl of Exeter. 1316.
Oriel King Edward II. 1324.
Queens Robert Eaglesfield, Clerk. 1340.
New Colledge William of Wickham, Bishop of Winton. 1349.
Lincoln Richard Fleming, Bi∣shop of London. 1427.
All Souls Henry Chichley, Arch∣bishop of Canterbury. 1438.

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Magdalen William of Wain∣fleet, Bishop of Winchester. 1458
azen Nose Wil. Smith Bishop of Lincoln, and Sir Richard Sutton. 1511
Corpus Christi Richard Fox, Bishop of Winton. 1516
hrist-Church King Henry VIII. 1546
Trinity Sir Thomas Pope. 1554
S. Johns Sir Thomas White. 1555
Jesus Dr. Hugh Price. 1571
adham Nich. Wadham, and Dor. his Wife. 1612
embroke. Tho. Tisdale Esquire, and King Whitwich Clerk. 1624

The Seven Halls are

  • Magdalen Hall.
  • Edmund Hall.
  • Albon Hall.
  • Hart Hall.
  • S. Mary Hall.
  • Glocester Hall.
  • And New Inn.

Now, to make a particular Description of those stately Colledges, their Halls, Chappels, and Libraries, their excellent Accommodation for young Noblemen and Gentlemen, their arge Revenues, great Salaries for publick Professors, and Allowances for poor Scholars, &c. would require another Volume. But this I must say of the Bodlean Library, a no∣table

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lightsom Fabrick, that for Number of choice Books, rare Manuscripts, diversity of Languages, liberty of studying, and facility of finding any Book, it scarce falls short of the famous Vatican. The New Theatre, built for Scholastick Exercises by Dr. Sheldon, the late most Reverend Archbishop of Canter∣bury, is so curious a Piece of Architecture, that it were a Trespass not to take notice of it. And the publick Physick Garden, sur∣rounded with stately Stone-Walls, and abound∣ing with Variety of choice Plants, is so de∣lightful a Place, that I could not do less than mention it.

But the lately erected Musaeum, finished in the Year 1683, deserves a brief Account. 'Tis a large and stately Pile of squared Stone, built at the Charge of the University, and designed not only to advance the Studies of true and real Philosophy, but also to conduce to the Uses of Life, and the Improvement of Physick. This Building borders upon the West-end of the Theater, having a stately Portal on that side, sustained by Pillars of the Corinthian Order. But the Front of it is to the Street Northward. It consists of ten Rooms, whereof the three principal and larg∣est are publick, being in length about 56 foot, and in breadth 25. The uppermost is properly the Musaeum Ashmoleanum, so called from Elias Ashmole Esquire, who inriched it with a noble Collection of Curiosities. To which have been added since several Hiero∣glyphicks, and other Aegyptian Antiquities by Dr. Robert Huntington; an intire Mum∣my, by Mr. Aaron Goodyear; a large Cabinet of Natural Rarities, by Martin Lister, Dr. of Physick; besides several Roman Antiqui∣ties,

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as Altars, Medals, Lamps, &c. found here in England. So that in a few Years this is like to be one of the most famous Re∣positories in Europe. The middle Room is the School of Natural History, where the Professor of Chymistry reads 3 times a Week, on Mundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, during the time of the Chymical Course, which continues a whole Month. His Busi∣ness is to explain the natures, qualities, and virtues, &c. of all natural Bodies, relating to and made use of in Chymical Preparations. The lower Room is the Laboratory, furnish∣ed with all sorts of Furnaces, and other Ma∣terials, in order to Chymical Practice. Near unto which is the Store-Room for Chymical Preparations, and another fitted for a Chy∣mical Library.

Now every Colledge has within its own Walls Lectures and Disputations in all Libe∣ral Arts; and some of them publick Le∣ctures for all Comers, with large Salaries for the Readers. Insomuch that they seem to be so many Universities.

The whole Number of Students in Oxford, that live upon the Revenues of the Colledges, is about One thousand; and of other Students, about twice as many. Besides Stewards, Manciples, Butlers, Cooks, Porters, Garden∣ers, &c.

He that intends to take any Degree is to take his Diet and Lodging, and have a Tu∣tor constantly, in some Colledge or Hall; where he must be subject to all Statutes, and to the Head of the House. He must be likewise subject to the chief Magistrate of the University, and the publick Statutes thereof. He is constantly to wear a black Cap and

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Gown, only the Sons of Noblemen are herein indulged. By Night all Scholars are to be shut up in their several Houses. And, before they can attain to any Degree, they must per∣form all Exercises.

The Degrees taken in the University are in Arts properly but two, viz. of Batchelour and Master. To take the Degree of Batchelor is required 4 Years, and 3 Years more for to be Master of Arts.

In the three Professions of Divinity, Law, and Physick, there is a higher Degree, that of Doctor, which requires a great deal more time. For, to attain unto it, a Master of Arts must be first capable of being a Batche∣lor in any of those Professions; which in Divinity requires 7 Years more, in Law or Physick most commonly but 3. And, after that, before the Degree of Doctor can be had, 4 Years more is requisite.

The Exercises required for taking these Degrees are many, and difficult enough; yet not such but that they may be performed in less time by any Man of good Abilities. But so much Time is required, first because Judgement and Discretion comes with Time and Years; and perhaps, that those of slower Parts might by Time and Industry make them∣selves capable of that Honour, as well as those of quicker Abilities.

The Time of compleating the Degree of Batchelor of Arts is in Lent, at which time there commonly proceed about 200 Batche∣lors. And that of compleating the Degree of Master of Arts, or of Doctor in any of the three Professions, is always the Munday after the sixth of July, when there proceed Ma∣sters or Doctors yearly about 150. Then is

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the Act, that is the Time, not only for pub∣lick Exercises, but also for Feastings and Comedies, unless some extraordinary Occa∣sion do hinder it. Which draw's a mighty Concourse of Strangers from all Parts to their Friends and Relations then compleat∣ing their Degrees. Whereby, and by the set Fees, it usually costs a Doctor about 100 l. sterling, and a Master of Arts 20 or 30 pounds.

But, besides these famous Societies in the Colledges and Halls of this University, there is another lately established, by the Name of the Philosophical Society, for the Improvement of real and experimental Philosophy. This Society (being much of the same nature as the Royal Society at London, with whom they have settled a Correspondency) meets every Tuesday in the Afternoon, by the per∣mission and favour of the Government, in the Natural History-School.

Lastly, as this City consists of two sorts of Inhabitants, Students and Citizens, living one among another, so they are wholly sepa∣rate for Government and Manners.

The chief Magistrate of the University is called the Chancellor, who is usually One of the prime Nobility, and nearest in favour with the King; Elected by the Students themselves in Convocation, to continue du∣rante Vita. Whose Office is to take care of the Government of the whole University, to maintain the Liberties and Priviledges there∣of, to call Assemblies to hear and determine Controversies, to call Courts, punish Delin∣quents, &c.

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The next is the Vice-Chancellor, who is yearly nominated by the Chancellor, and is commonly the Head of some Colledge. His Duty is, in the Chancellor's absence, to do whatever almost the Chancellour might do if he were present. He keeps Judicial Courts, wholly ruled by the Civil Law, which all Members of the University are subject to. And, by Charter of Henry IV, it is left to his Choice, whether any Member in the Uni∣versity there inhabiting, accused for Felony or High Treason, shall be tried by the Laws of the Land, or by the Laws and Customs of the University. Though now, where Life or Limb is concerned, the Criminal is left to be tried by the Laws of the Land. But in all Suits for Debts, Accounts, Contracts, Injuries, &c. betwixt the Students, he is the proper Judge; and has Power to determine such Causes, to Imprison, to give corporal Punish∣ment, to excommunicate, to suspend, and to banish.

'Tis the Vice-Chancellor's Business to see, that Sermons, Lectures, Disputations, and other Exercises, be performed; that lewd people, Hereticks, &c. be expelled the University, and the Converse with Stu∣dents; that the Proctors, and other Officers of the University, duly perform their Duty; that Courts be duly called, and Law-Suits determined without delay. In a word, that whatever is for the Honour and Benefit of the University, or may conduce to the Ad∣vancement of good Literature, may be care∣fully obtained.

Next to the Vice-Chancellor are the two Proctors, yearly chosen by turns out of the several Colledges. These are to assist in the

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Government of the University; more parti∣cularly in the business of Scholastick Exer∣cises, and taking Degrees, in searching after and punishing all Violaters of Statutes or Pri∣viledges of the University, all Night-Walkers, &c. They have also the Oversight of Weights and Measures, that Students may not be wronged.

Next in order is the Publick Orator. Whose Charge is to write Letters, according to the Orders of the Convocation or Congregation; and, at the Reception of any Prince or great Person that comes to see the University, to make proper Harangues, &c.

Then there is the Custos Archivorum, or Keeper of Records. Whose Duty is to collect and keep the Charters, Priviledges, and Records that concern the University; to be always ready to produce them before the chief Officers; and to plead the Rights and Priviledges of the University.

Lastly, there is a Register of the Univer∣fity; whose Office is to register all Transacti∣ons in Convocations, Congregations, Delega∣cies, &c.

Besides the foresaid Officers, there are cer∣tain publick Servants, the chief whereof are the six Beadles, and the Verger. Three of the first are called Squire Beadles, who carry large Maces of Silver gilt; and the other three, Yeomen Beadles, whose Maces are of Silver but ungilt. Their Office is always to wait on the Vice-Chancellor in publick, doing what belongs to his Place; and, at his Command, to seize any Delinquent, and carry him to Prison; to summon, and publish the Calling of Courts or Convocations, to conduct Preachers to Church, and Lecturers to School,

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&c. But, upon Solemnities, the Verger ap∣pears with a Silver Rod in his hand; and, walking with the other six before the Vice-Chancellor, is to observe his Commands, and to wait on Grand Compounders, &c.

I have already mentioned several great Priviledges, granted by former Kings to this University. That of sending two Burgesses to Parliament they hold from King James I. An∣other, that no Victuals be taken by the King's Purveyors within 5 miles of Oxford, unless the King himself comes thither, is of a much more ancient Date.

But one of the most considerable is That granted by Charter of King Edward III, whereby the Mayor of Oxford is to obey the Orders of the Vice-Chancellor, and be in subjection to him. Accordingly the May∣or, with the chief Burgesses in Oxford, and the High-Sheriff of Oxfordshire besides, eve∣ry Year in a solemn manner take an Oath, given by the Vice-Chancellor, to observe and conserve the Rights, Priviledges, and Li∣berties of the University of Oxford. And every Year on the tenth of February, be∣ing the Day of S. Scholastica, a certain Num∣ber of the principal Burgesses, publickly and solemnly do pay to each Colledge a Peny, in token of their Submission to the Orders and Rights of the University.

Thus you have a short Description of Ox∣ford, as a City and an University. My next Business is the Description of Cam∣bridge.

Cambridge.

CAMBRIDGE, the chief Town of Cambridgeshire, and that from whence the Country is denominated, bears from London

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North by East, and is distant therefrom 44 miles, thus. From London to Waltham 12; to Ware, 8 more; thence to Puckeridge, 5; to Barkway, 7; and to Cambridge, 12 more.

'Tis seated at the Confluence of two Ri∣vers, the Cam and the Grant; which running from thence Northward in one Channel empty themselves in the Ouse, 3 miles above Ely. By these Rivers it is separated into two (but unequal) Parts, but they have Communication by a Bridge.

It is a Place of a large Extent, number∣ing 14 Parishes. And, according to Doctor Fuller's Observation in his Worthies of En∣gland, 'tis a Town within an University, whereas Oxford is an University within a Town. For in Cambridge the Colledges are not so surrounded with Streets as in Oxford, but for the generality seated in the Skirts of the Town, which afford them the better and more delightfull Walks and Gardens about them.

There are in Oxford (as I said before) 18 Indowed Colledges, and 7 Halls. In Cam∣bridge there is but 12 Colledges, and 4 Halls. 'Tis true they are all Indowed, and generally so large that the Number of Students is com∣monly little different from that of Oxford. The Names of them, and of their Founders, together with the Time of their Foundation, you have in the following Table.

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Colled. & Halls, Founded by Anno.
S. Peter's Colledge Hugh de Balsham Bi∣shop of Ely. 1284
Clare-Hall Rich. Badow Chanc. of the University. 1326
Pembroke-Hall Mary S. Paul. 1343
Gonvile & Cajus Edmund de Gonvile and Cajus. 1348
Trinity-Had Wil. Bateman, Bishop of Norwich. 1350
Corpus Christi H. of Monmouth, D. of Lancaster. 1351
King's Colledge King Henry VI. 1441
Queen's Colledge Margaret, Wife to King Henry VI. 1448
Catharine Hall Robert Wood, Lord Chancellor of the University. 1475
Jesus Colledge John Alcock, Chanc. of England. 1496
Christs Colled. S. John's Coll. Margaret Countess of Richmond. 1505
Christs Colled. S. John's Coll. Margaret Countess of Richmond. 1508
Magdalen Coll. Tho. Audley, Chanc. of England. 1519
Trinity Colledge King Henry VIII. 1546
Emanuel Colledge Sir Walter Mildmay, Chancellor of the Exchequer. 1582
Sidney and Sussex Francis Sidney, Chan∣cellor of Sussex. 1598

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The Degrees at Cambridge are usually taken as at Oxford, except in Law and Physick. For at Cambridge six Years after one has taken the Degree of Master of Art, one may take the Degree of Batchelor; and, after five Years more, that of Doctor.

The Batchelors of Arts compleat their De∣gree in Lent, beginning at Ash-Wednesday. And the first Tuesday of July is always Dies Comitiorum, there called the Commencement, wherein the Masters of Arts and the Doctors of all Faculties compleat their Degrees re∣spectively.

Here is, as in Oxford, a Chancellor, a Vice-Chancellor, two Prectors, and a Register. But the Chancellor is not so durante Vita; for he may be elected every three years, or continue in the same Office durante tacito Consensu Senatus Cantabr.

He has under him a Commissary, who holds a Court of Record of Civil Causes for all priviledged Persons and Scholars under the Degree of Master of Arts; where all Causes are try'd and determined by the Civil and Statute-Law, and by the Customs of the Uni∣versity.

The Vice-Chancellor is a high Officer, chosen every Year on the 3d of Nov. by the Senate out of two Persons nominated by the Heads of the several Colledges and Halls.

Together with the two Proctors, chosen as at Oxford, there are two Taxers chosen; who with the Proctors look to the Weights and Measures, as Clerks of the Market.

Here are also three Esquire-Beadles, but only one Yeoman-Beadle.

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The Mayor of the Town is like that of Oxford, subject to the University, and takes a solemn Oath, at the Entrance into his Office, to observe and conserve the Priviledges, Liberties, and Customs thereof. And on Fri∣day before St. Simon and Jude he brings with him to St. Maries Church, allotted for the Assembly of the whole University, two Al∣dermen, four Burgesses, and two of every Parish, to take their Oaths before the Vice-Chancellor, for the due search of Vagabonds, and suspected Persons, &c. At the same time are sworn 14 Persons for the University, and 14 for the Town, to look to the Cleansing and Paving of the Streets.

The University has also a Court-Leet, held twice every Year, wherein are presented all Nusances, &c.

What remains is the Question about the Antiquity of Cambridge as a Place of Learn∣ing, in opposition to Oxford. To me it ap∣pears to be in that respect of an older date than Oxford. For Cambridge, in the time of the Romans, (among whom it was known by the Name of Camboritum, or, as some Copies have it, Camboricum,) was a Roman Colony, mentioned in the best Copies among the 28 Cities of Britain. And the Roman Co∣lonies had their Schools of Learning, where∣in the several Professors of Arts and Sci∣ences did instruct both the Roman and Bri∣tish Youth. In the Bull of Pope Honorius the first, bearing date Febr. 20. 624, men∣tion is made of Priviledges granted to the University of Cambridge. The Bull says by Eleutherius, the 12th Bishop of Rome, who lived about the latter end of the second Cen∣tury, but King Arthur's Diploma says by

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Lucius, a British King, the first Christian King in Europe, and Contemporary with the said Eleutherius. Which Diploma says, that King Lucius was converted by the preaching of the Doctors of Cambridge, for which reason he gave Priviledges to that University, which were confirmed by King Arthur. Whether the Diploma be counterfeit or not, or whe∣ther the aforesaid Priviledges were granted by King Lucius or Pope Eleutherius, is a Question by it self. Certain is, that both the Diploma and the Bull agree, in point of Time. So that here is Proof enough, to make it at least probable, that in the time of King Lucius and Pope Eleutherius there might be a sufficient Number of learn∣ed Men in Cambridge to have instructed King Lucius in the Christian Faith; and that Eluanus and Medwinus, who were sent by that King to Rome for his fuller Satisfa∣ction in that point, might be of that Num∣ber.

Upon these Grounds it must be granted, that Cambridge is a Place long since dedi∣cated unto Learning; and I doubt much whether Oxford (as great a Respect as I have for it) can pretend to so great an Anti∣quity.

But Dr. Heylin, an Oxonian, alledges a notable Reason for the Precedency of Oxford before Cambridge; Viz. the Resolution of the Commons in the first Parliament held under King James I. For (says he) when the Clerk of that House had put the Name of Cam∣bridge before Oxford, they taking disdainfully that Hysteron-Proteron commanded the Antiqui∣ties of both Universities to be searched, and after search made gave place to Oxford.

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To clear this Point, we must take notice, that both Oxford and Cambridge, since their first Foundation, lay for several Ages for∣lorn and discontinued, during the long Wars of the Saxons and Danes in this Island. Till Oxford had the happiness to be first restored by King Alfred, towards the latter end of the Ninth Century. Which from that time grew into such esteem, as to be counted one of the four principal Universities of Europe, the other three being Paris in France, Bono∣nia (now Bologna) in Italy, and Salamanca in Spain. Whereas Cambridge did not begin to flourish again, till the Reign of Henry I, for his Learning surnamed Beau-Clerc, that is in the beginning of the Twelfth Century. So that in point of Restauration, 'tis plain that Oxford has got the start of Cambridge.

But let us leave this Speculation of Cam∣bridge as an Academy, and look upon it as a Title of Honour. In this Point we shall find Cambridge to have the Preeminency. For it has been Dignify'd, not only with the Title of an Earldom in several eminent Persons, but also with the Title of a Dukedom, in four Sons of the late King James, when Duke of York. Three of them by the first Dutchess, Charles, James, and Edgar, who all died very young; and the fourth, by the last Dutchess Charles by Name, the short Hopes of the Popish Faction. Who, being born Nov. 7. 1677. died Dec. 12. following, and so lived but five Weeks.

Thus I have done with OXFORD and CAMBRIDGE, those two great Foun∣tains of Learning, both seated at almost an e∣qual Distance from London, the one West,

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and the other North. From whence are year∣ly sent forth a great Number of Divines, Civilians, Physicians, &c. to serve all Parts of this Kingdom.

For a constant Supply whereof there are several Colledges and famous Schools in Eng∣land; the principal Winchester, Eaton, West∣minster, St. Pauls, Merchant-Taylors, and Charter-House, all richly Indowed, to maintain Ma∣sters, Ushers, and a certain Number of Scho∣lars. So that a Child, once admitted into any of these Schools, may by his Capacity be preferred to be a Scholar, or Fellow in some Colledge of one of these Universities. Where having a good Allowance, he will want little or no help from his Parents all his Life∣time after.

The End of the First Part.
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