A journey to Paris in the year 1698 by Dr. Martin Lister.

And now we are got into the Gardens of Paris, I shall give you a short taste of all of them of Note, at least of such as I saw.

* 1.1This of the Tuilleries is vastly great, has shaded Tarrasses on two sides, one a∣long the River Seine, planted with Trees, very diverting, with large Parterrs in the middle, and large Fountains of Wa∣ter, which constantly play; one end is the Front of that Magnificent Palace the Louvre; the other is low, and for pro∣spects, open to the Fields; The rest is disposed into Alleys, and Grass-Plots, and Copsies of Wood; with a great number of Seats upon Down in all parts, for the Ac∣commodation of the Weary.

In the Tuilleries there is one thing which I much liked, and that was an Amphitheater, with the Stage, Pits and Seats, and the Scenes leading into the Stage very pretty; from all sides close Alleys leading into it.

Nothing can be more pleasant than this Garden, where in the Groves of Wood the latter end of March, Black Birds, and

Trostles, and Nightingales, sing most sweet∣ly all the morning, and that as it were within the City, for no Birding is suf∣fered here near this City, and the Fields round the Town, are all, every where, full of Partridges, and Hares, and other Game.

The Garden of the Palais of Luxenburgh is also vastly great, and has something of champatre in it, like St. James's-Park; it is also filled with People daily of good Quality; but because the hard Winters have destroyed many of the Walks, by killing the Pole Hedges, it is not so fre∣quented, as formerly; yet it hath its Fountains and Parterres, and some well shaded Allies; and for Air, I prefer it before the Tuillieres, because it is seated upon a high Ground next the Fields, in the Faubourgh of St. Germains.

* 1.2As to the King's Physick Garden, it is a very great Piece of Ground, well fur∣nisht with Plants, and open also to walk in, to all People of Note. There is great variety of Ground in it, as Woods, Ponds, Meadows, Mounts, besides a vast Level, by which it is fitted for the Re∣ception and Growth of most sorts of Plants.

I first saw it in March with Dr. Turn∣fort, and Mr. Breman, a very Under∣standing and Painful Gardner. The Green Houses well stored with tender Exoticks, and the Parterrs with Simples; though but few of them then to be seen; yet by the Trees and Shrubs, and some Plants which did not lose their Heads, I could well judge of the Furniture.

Dr. Turnfort told me, that he shewed a 100 Plants every Lesson, and he had in the Summer 30 Lessons, which made 3000 Plants; besides the very early and late Plants, which he reckoned could not be less than a 1000 more.

I took particular notice of these Plants in the Green Houses at that time.

• ...Jasminum Asoricum flore albo viridarii Regis Lusitanici.
• ... Marum Cortusii, which had been Potted 30 years.
• ...Caryophyllus Creticus arborescens.
• ...Smilax fructu nigro.
• ...Iris bulbosa flore luteo.
• ...Symphytum minus Boraginis flore.
• ...Fraxinus Americana florida.
• ...Staechas folio serrato Bochini.

This Garden is endowed by the King and Duke of Orleans, and has 2000l. a year Sterling Rents belonging to it, where∣of 500l. is given to the chief Physician who over-looks all, and the rest to the Botanic Reader, Dr. Turnfort, and Under-Gardners, with Lodgings for all.

Mr. Breman told me, he had in the beginning of April made an end of Sow∣ing his Hot Beds, and had put into the Ground 2000 Species of Seed.

From the Mount in the Kings Garden, on the other side the River, upon the declivity of a high ridge of Hills, I had a fair view of the Palace or Country-House of Father la Chaise, the Kings Con∣fessor; it is very finely seated against the South Sun, and well Wooded on both sides: A fit Seat for a Contemplative Person.

* 1.3The Garden of the Palais Royal, con∣sidering it is in the middle of the Town, is very large, has 2 or 3 great Basins with their jet d'Eau, but not well kept; nor hath any thing elegant in it, but the good order and disposition of its shady Walks and Parterrs: It is ever full of good Company.

* 1.4The Garden of the Arsenal is much larger, and finer kept; has the prospects of the Fields, and lies open to the Ram∣parts: It is also much frequented for the beauty of its Walks.

There are also divers Convents which have spatious and well kept Gardens, which are always open and publick to People of any Note; as the Carthusians, which is vast and Champestre. The Ce∣lestins, very fine and large; That of St. Genevieve, which is great, and very well kept; and the Tarrasse for length and breadth is incomparable, extreamly well planted with Horse-chesnuts; having also on the South side upon the Tarrasse, 3 or 4 square Copses of the same Trees; which have a marvellous effect for Shade in Summer.

These Private Gardens I saw in Paris.

D'Aumont. Its Green House opened in∣to the Dining Room: The Orange Trees seemed to have suffered, and had their Leaves withered; for the Room was too broad by half.

The Treillage, at the upper end of the Garden, was very well adorned with Gilding, and had in the middle a Pavil∣lon,

in which was an old Roman Statue of a young Man, very well preserved: The fashion of the Toga here was so evi∣dent, that it might well pass for a con∣viction to those, who have thought it to be a Plade, or a Garment open before like a Cloak.

This Treillage is performed with that variety of Ornaments, that it resembles Filegreen Work, and is large. The Painting of these Works in green is not well performed in all places alike; it is either too yellow, or of a sad dirty green, or Sea green; few have hit the right Grass green colour. To do it well, it is to be primed in yellow, and then to be covered with Vert de Montagne or La∣pis Armeniacus; of which last colour we have plenty in England about Maulham in Craven in Yorkeshire.

This is the great benefit of Treillage in Cities, that besides the beauty of it to the Eye, it takes away and hides the ill prospect of the Neighbouring Houses.

Here were very many Fig-Trees well grown in square Boxes; and Parterrs well stockt with Flowers; each sort by them∣selves; as Tulips a-part; Junkills a-part; Anemonies a-part; Ranunculus's a-part; Daffadills a-part.

Puissart. This Garden is very neat, and open at the end to the Tuilleries. The Treillage Walk or Arbor at the upper end is very fine, 70 Paces long, and 8 broad, hath 3 Pavillons all open at the top. It is all of Iron, painted green, and cost 15000 Livers.

The Gardner was an Artist; and had some Plants in Cases in good order, not to be seen elsewhere, as large Rosemary Bushes, Jacobaea Maritima, Marum Syriacum, &c.

The Walls were well covered with Fruit Trees; he had not cut his Peaches; when I askt him the reason, he told me, it was his way, not to cut them till after flowring, which he found by Experience to improve the Fruit; whereas he said, the early cutting Stockt them, and im∣paired the Fruit.

The Orangery here was the most beau∣tiful Room, for the bigness, I had seen, paved with Marble, and neatly Wain∣scoted with Oak, from the top to the bot∣tom, after our English manner. I make no doubt it served to eat in in Summer, when cleared of Trees.

Bouvillier. I found not any thing more remarkable here than the Trellage at the end.

Comartin. The Trellage in this Garden was most admirable in the fashion of a Triumphal Arch; half of it was an A∣viarie, with a Fountain in it, well stor'd with Birds.

Here were large Iron Vasa's upon Pe∣destals, the first I had seen of the Kind, painted over of a Copper colour.

Les Diguieres. This is the only House in Paris, I saw kept in all the parts of it, with the most exact cleanliness and neatness, Gardens and all.

In the Garden there were several pieces of Trellage; that at the upper end was very noble, and cost 10000 Livres; an∣other piece of it cost 6000. But I saw a small one all of Iron-leaves painted green, the only one of the Kind. Here also were great Vasa's of Trelliage upon Pede∣stals.

The Fountains in this Garden were very curious, though small, with proper Or∣naments, which had a marvellous effect, when the Spouts plaied off.

The first Court was set about with Cases of extraordinary large Laurus Tinus, and in the Gardens there were some cut into square Pyramids.

A Person of Quality came into the Garden to me, who with great Civility conducted me up to the Apartments.

In the Apartment of the Dutchess, which was all of her own Contrivance, and had an Air of State and Agreeable∣ness beyond any thing I had seen, I observed hanging down in the middle of the Bed-chamber the finest Crystal Candle∣stick in France: The Pieces were all bought single by her, and the Contrivance and setting them together was her own; it cost 12000 Crowns.

But before I left the Garden, in an obscure Parterre I saw the Tomb of a Cat, viz. a Black Cat Couchant upon a White Marble Cushion, fringed with Gold, and Gold Tassels hanging at the corners upon a square Black Marble Pe∣destal: On one of the sides of that Marble is writ in Letters of Gold.

Cy gist Menine la plus aimable & la Plus aimee de toutes les chattes.

On the other side.

Cy gist une chatte jolie Sa maistresse qui n'aimoit rien L'aime jusques à la follie Pour quoy dire! on le voit bien

This is not the first Instance of this kind of folly; I have seen something of it in England; and have read much more in History.

If you blame me for Transcribing this Epitaph, I will submit; but I could ne∣ver have forgiven my self, if I had Tran∣scribed the many fine Inscriptions I met with at Paris, though in most Elegant and truly Roman Words; others in pure Court French. You may read them in the Description of Paris.

De Lorge. We had the good fortune here to find the Marshal himself walking in his Garden; who Entertained us with great Civility, viz. the Dean of Win∣chester and my self. This Garden was not finisht, and the House it self was but building; but it is one of the finest in Paris, and has the advantage of a most free and extended prospect of the Fields and Montmarter: At the end of the Gar∣den rises a Tarrass equal with the Ram∣part.

That which was in this House and Garden very commodious and noble was, that betwixt the two Courts the Coaches drive through a stately Hall upon Pillars, and might land on either side, up a step

or two, which leads to the Staircases and other Apartments; and then in the fur∣thest Court, which is only divided from the Garden by high Pallasadoes of Iron, they turn, and take up the Company a∣gain; so that no Weather offends them. Which is much wanting here; and more with us at London, where we most need it.

This Hall is open upon Arches to the Garden, and the Staircase it self is so contrived, that you enjoy a full prospect of the Garden and Montmarter in descend∣ing.

The Marshal very obligingly shewed us his own Apartment; for all the rest of the House was full of Workmen; and in his Bedchamber his little Red Damask Field Bed, which he lay in now, and which also served him, when he com∣manded upon the Rhine.

He shewed us his great Sash Windows; how easily they might be lifted up and down, and stood at any height; which Contrivance he said he had out of Eng∣land, by a small Model brought on pur∣pose from thence: There being nothing of this Poise in Windows in France be∣fore.

He also had us into a Set of small Closets or Rooms, after the English fashi∣on, very prettily furnished, neatly kept, and retired, with his English Keys to them, as he told us; and from thence we descended a back Pair of Stairs: We did all we could to hinder him from see∣ing us take Coach: He sent his Page af∣ter us, to invite us some day to Eat with him.

Hostel Pelitier. The Garden here was very neat, with a Trelliage at the end after the manner of a Triumphal Arch, but not very high, nor well Painted; yet its Beauty and Finishings differ much from any I had seen before. In the two Niches were plac'd great Iron Vasa's or Flower Pots, right before the middle of a Basin of Water, which was set a Playing for our Entertainment, which is a Com∣pliment the French are willing to ob∣lige Strangers with.

In the Orangerie were very large Trees, and two pair of Mirtles in Cases, cut Globe-wise, the best and biggest I had seen: Large Bushes in Pots of Marum Sy∣riacum. Great store of Tulips, Anemo∣nies, Ranunculus, and other Flowers in Beds, in the Parterre, each by them∣selves.

Also Anemonies and Ranunculus's in little Earthen Pots, as with us; but in very light Mold. Great and very fair Laurus Tinus's in Cases. And, which was singular, a-long one of the Garden Walls were planted Abel Trees, whose tops were disposed and spread by an Iron Trelliage into Arches at equal distances, which had a very good effect.

* 1.5The Garden of the Hostel-sullie had no∣thing remarkable in it.

* 1.6The best Piece of Treillage of Iron Bars and Wood intermixt, is that in the Garden of feu Mons. Louvois. And this is one of the neatest Gardens in Paris. The whole upper end is adorned with a noble Treillage after the manner of a Triumphal Arch; it cost a great Sum of Money: There are 4 Statues disposed on Pedestals under it, which have a good effect; these are Antique, rarely good. One of the first Empresses, a Diana, an Apollo, &c. Here the Walks are hard Gravel, but not Rowled. On one side of the Treillage is a large Aviary well stored with Birds.

The Walls of the Green House are Matted; and large Pans of Iron hang down in the middle of the House, at

equal distances, to every Window one; They have Pullies to let them down or run them up to what height they please. This way may very well correct the moistness of the Air, which the breath of the Plants cause, and sufficiently warm them. Hot Beds puff up Plants; yet a warm Air over their Heads may be as useful to re∣fresh and nourish them in Winter.

* 1.7The last Private Garden I saw, was that of Mr. Furnier, a few days before we left the Town, nothing could be pret∣tier. At the upper end a noble Treillage, two great Vasa's of Iron painted of a Brass∣colour and gilt.

Here I saw an Apple Tree Potted, as the Figs and Oranges use to be; it was the White Queenen, (or Calvil d'Este) the Stem of the bigness only of my Thumb, full of Fruit the first of June.

Many Pots of Sedum Pyramidale, now a most elegant Ornament. But nothing is here so pompous as double red and stript stockes; which they multiply with care; and their Pains are justly Rewarded. With a thousand other things, which my short turn in the Garden would not give me leave to remember.

There are great numbers of these Pri∣vate Gardens in Paris, which deserve

seeing; but the Season of the year not much favouring our Curiosity, we did not much enquire after them.

Hitherto I have given a short Account of what I saw mostly in Paris, as to the People, abroad and at home; The Coun∣try, round about it, is full of populous and neat Towns, and many Palaces of the King and Princes of the Blood; which are not to be equalled with any thing we have in England. But I am unwilling to lead you any further, it being much out of my way and humour to go to Court; but because it was my fortune to be at Versailles, St. Clou, Marli, and Meudon, I will venture to say something of each.

These 4 Royal Palaces and their Gar∣dens possess a barren and hilly Country, as big as most Counties in England: Two of them, Meudon and St. Cloud, have the Prospect of Paris under them; but the former hath it much more open and fully, than the latter.

This District may be said to be Le Ber∣ceau des Roys, or the Nursery of Kings; for the chief of the Blood Royal are lodged here, viz. the King, Monseigneur the Dauphin, and the 3 Grandsons, the Dukes of Burgundy, d'Anjou, and Berry, Monsieur or the Kings Brother, and his Son the Duke of Charlres, and Mademoi∣selle

his Daughter. All these are, or will be (as it is easie to guess by the growth and proportions of the youngest) very large and well shaped beautiful People. The other Branch of the Blood Royal, of the House of Bourbon, as the Prince of Conde, the Duke of Bourbon, and the Princesses his Daughters, the Prince of Conti, are all of less Stature, but very well shaped and handsom.

The Duke du Maine and the Conte de Toulouse I did not see; but the Princess Dowager of Conti often, who is without dispute one of the most graceful and handsomest Women in France, and me∣thinks exceedingly like the King her Fa∣ther, as I remember him in his full beau∣ty, when I first saw him in the year-65.

These 4 Palaces are all intirely built and furnisht in this Kings time, and all the Gardens, and what belongs to them.

* 1.8St. Clou is the nearest Paris, and the Castle is very magnificent, and most commodious. The Great Salon and the Gallery are extreamly well Painted.

The Gardens are a vast Extent, 12 or 15 miles in compass.

The Natural Woods on the South-west side the House, are well Husbanded, and cut into small and bigger Alleys, to save

the Trees; which they have had so great a care of, they have kept them standing not only in the Alleys, but in the very Steps of Stone, which are made to descend into the Alleys.

In the other parts of the Garden the Al∣leys are mostly treble, and well shaded, run out in vast lengths of several miles, every where Basins and Jetts d'eau; but there is a Cascade, which I saw several times play, and is said to be the most beautiful and best furnisht with Water of any in France. In the middle of the large Ba∣sin amongst the Woods, I saw a Jet d'eau, which threw up a Spout of Water 90 foot high, and did discharge it self with that force, that it made a mist and cool∣ness to the Air a great compass round about, and gave now and then cracks like the going off of a Pistol; such force the vent of Wind in the Pipes had.

The Pipes which convey the Water are composed of Iron Cylinders 3 foot long, some 10, some 20 inches diameter, till they divide; and then they are of Lead.

I was once kindly invited to St. Clou by Madam's Physician, Monsieur Arlot, who sent his Coach for me to Paris, and nobly Treated me: Before Dinner he carried me in his Coach (for this privi∣ledge

is granted him) into all parts, and round the Gardens; which were well furnisht with Alleys and Walks, adorn∣ed with Cypress, Pines, and Firrs, cut into Pyramids; and Water-Works every where playing in abundance, particu∣larly the Gerbes d'eau were very fine, that is, great and thick, seeming Streams of Water thrown up into the Air; This is done to husband the Water by a great number of small Pipes like a Sheaf, to re∣present a solid Pillar of Water.

Monsieur has added, and taken into this vast Garden, a new acquisition of a Mountainous Plain, which over-looks all the Country round; and will, no doubt, when it is modelled by that admirable Contriver Mons. le Nostre, make one of the most delightful Places in the World.

From the Balustrade in the Upper Gar∣den, the River Seine, and a vast Plain bounded by Paris, is to be seen, and makes a most delightful Prospect.

These vast riding Gardens are unknown to us in England, and se promener a che∣val, on en carosse, is not English. We can∣not afford to lose so much Country, as those Gardens take up. I see in some of the Quarters not only Partridge and Hares plentifully, but, which I wonder∣ed at, 5 Biches or Female Red-Deer feed∣ing.

The Orangery belonging to this Garden is very large and magnificent, paved with Marble, and was filled with vast Trees in Cases, not to be brought in or out without proper Engines, but in it there was nothing but those Orange Trees, Oleanders, and Laurus Tinus's. He goes out of the end of his Appartment, that is, the noble painted Gallery is conti∣nued upon a level with the Orangery, which leads directly into an ascending Walk of a vast length; and also fronts or flanks all along the Parterre or Flower Garden; where they are disposed of in Summer. At this Treat I eat of a Preserve or Wet Sweetmeat, made of Orange Flowers, incomparable; and the Lady obliged me with the manner of making it.

Though there were high and proper Walls for Fruit in many parts of the Garden, yet nothing of that nature was to be found, only ordinary and in∣fructiferous Greens were fastned to the Treillage, which are the Linings of most Walls here. In the Garden are many Arbours of Treillage, Pavillons, &c. of Iron mixt with Wood, painted Green, with Honey Suckles running up them. These Gardens have above 150 People always imployed to keep them in or∣der;

which stands in 40000 Livres a year.

Another time I Dined with the Captain of the Castle, who shewed me all the Apartments at leisure. I eat here of the Red Leg'd Partridge taken here upon these Hills; They are much less here than in Languedoc, but yet far better tasted, than the Grey Partridges taken in the same place. This was the beginning of April, and we drank our Wine in Ice, which I was not aware off, till I found the bad effect of it in my Throat; and the next day much more; but it went off again without any great trouble. There is no Animal that abuses it self in Meat and Drink, as Man does; we daily drink excessive hot and excessive cold; in other Creatures it's Instinct that guides them, but as for us we neither act by Instinct, nor Reason; but betwixt both loosely, and therefore oftner are catcht, to our own destruction.

At the end of the Apartments of Monsieur, are a fine Set of Closets; The first you enter is furnisht with great va∣riety of Rock Crystals, Cups, Agats up∣on small Stands, and the sides of the Rooms are lined with large Panes of Looking-glass from top to the bottom, with Japan Varnish and Paintings of e∣qual

breadth intermixt; which had a marvellous pretty effect. The other Room had in it a vast quantity of Bijou, and many of very great Price; but the Siam Pagods, and other things from thence, were very odd.

There was also one very small Roman Statue of White Marble, not 10 inches high, which cost 20000 Crowns; one Leg of it was a little injured. It seemed a Piece of admirable Workmanship. It was a Boy, who had in the Skirt of his Tunic a Litter of Puppies, and the Bitch lying at his feet and looking up.

* 1.9I cannot say much of Meudon, because I was not within the House or Park; it will require yet some time to bring it to that perfection which is designed, for that Monseigneur has been but lately possessed of it; The Road from Paris to it is yet un∣paved; but the Situation is admirable, and the Splanade before the House is like a vast Bastion, and commands the full view of all the Campagne, and Paris under it. The Gardens are very great, but I only coasted them, and the House.

* 1.10As to the Palace of Versailles, (which is yet some miles further within the Moun∣tainous Country, not unlike Black-Heath

or Tunbridge) 'tis without dispute the most magnificent of any in Europe; Yet what of it was first built, and much admired 30 years ago, is now no longer relisht: However this King intends to rebuild it, where it is faulty. 'Tis, as I said, plac'd in a very ungrateful Soil, without Earth proper for Herbs, or Water; but he hath brought that to it in abundance, and made the Ground too to be fruitful.

There are Books writ to describe this famous Palace in every part; to which I refer the Reader. The Way to it is new, and in some places the Mountains are cut down 40 foot, so that now you enjoy it a mile in prospect before you come to it; it opens and closes in 3 Courts, the more remotest narrower and narrower; which is a fault; and is, as I was told, designed to be pulled down, and made into one noble large square Court of the same or∣der of building, as that magnificent Front is, which looks upon the Gardens. The Gilded Tiles and Roof have a marvellous effect in prospect. The Splanade towards the Gardens and Parterres are the no∣blest things that can be seen, vastly great, with a very large Basin of Water in the middle, walled round with white Marble, on which are placed a great number of incomparable Brazen Vasa, and large

Brass Figures couchant, of the best Masters in Sculpture; it were endless to tell all the Furniture of these Gardens of Marble Statues, and Vasa of Brass and Marble, the multitude of Fountains, and those wide Canals like Seas running in a streight line from the bottom of the Gardens, as far as the Eye can reach.

In a Word, these Gardens are a Coun∣trey laid out into Alleys and Walks, Groves of Trees, Canals and Fountains, and every where adorned with ancient and modern Statues and Vasa innumer∣able.

May the 17th the Waters were order∣ed to Play for the Diversion of the En∣glish Gentlemen. The Playing of the Spouts of Water, thrown up into the Air, is here diversified after a thousand fashions. The Theatre des eaux, and the Triumphal Arch are the most famous Pieces. But in the Groves of the Left Hand, you have Aesop's Fables, in so many Pieces of Water-Works, here and there in Wind∣ing-Alleys. This might have been said to be done in Ʋsum Delphini. 'Tis pretty to see the Owle washt by all the Birds; the Munkie hugging her young one, till it spouts out Water with a full Throat, and open Mouth, &c.

The Orangery, or Winter Conservato∣ry for Tubs of Winter Greens, is what corresponds to the greatness of the rest. 'Tis a stupendious half square of under∣ground Vaults, like the Naves of so many Churches put together, of exquisite Work∣manship in hewn Stone, well lighted and open to the South Sun. It contains 3000 Cases of Greens; whereof near 2000 are Orange Trees, and many hun∣dreds of them are as big as generally they naturally grow in the Earth: Hence amongst them are some, which are said to be in Cases from the time of Francis the First.

They did not think fitting to put them out this year till the latter end of May; and indeed their Oleanders, Laurels, Len∣tiscus's, and most other Greens, had suf∣fered miserably.

In the Pottagerie (which is part of these Gardens, and hath its magnificence also) there are 700 Cases of Figs, be∣sides Wall Fruit of all other Kinds: By all the Gardens in and about Paris, I per∣ceived they are very fond of this Fruit.

I observed in small Fiance or Painted Pots a vast number of the narrow leaved Laurus Alexandrina; also Thlapsi flore albo, Leucoii folio latifolium; also the Sedum Py∣ramidale; These are not yet Ornaments in our Gardens, that I know of.

* 1.11The 15th of May my Lord Ambassa∣dor went to Marli, where the Waters played for his Diversion.

I must needs say it is one of the plea∣santest Places I ever saw, or, I believe, is in Europe; it is seated in the bosom or upper end of a high Valley, in the midst of and surrounded with Woody Hills. The Valley is closed at the upper end, and gently descends forwards by degrees, and opens wider and wider, and gives you the prospect of a vast plain Coun∣trey, and the River Seine running through it.

Marli is a square House raised upon Steps, and Terrassed on all sides; The 4 Fronts all alike; and the Doors opening into the Garden all the same. In the middle an Octogon-hall, running up Dome-wise, in which all the side Rooms meet; which are all Rooms of State. Above are 12 Lodgings, with a narrow Gallery leading to them. In the lower Rooms at Marli, particularly in the Octogon Salan, are extraordinary large (6 foot at least) Marble, or rather Agat Tables; To the best of which they may be compared. They are veined like Wood, and of an Amber colour; These are the admirable effect of Petrification. Of this very

Stone I have seen great Blocks in the Banks of the Dropping Well at Knaresbo∣rough in Yorkeshire. I forgot to ask here whence they had them.

In one of the Ground Rooms was a Semicircular Gilt Bar or Rail, which took off and inclosed the upper end of the Room: Within the Bar was disposed se∣veral Rows of Porcellain or fine China on Gilt Shelves. Here at the Corners, within the Bar, opened two small Doors, whence the Ambassador and his Retinue were plentifully served with Chocolate, Tea, and Coffee, in a most obliging man∣ner; Many of the Nobility and Gentle∣men of France were ordered to attend him there.

The two side Fronts of the House have in prospect great Alleys cut through the Woods, and paved for the more com∣modious coming down to the House; which is descending all the way.

On each side the Valley, close under the Woods, run along in a line, six square Pavillons or smaller Palaces of the very same figure and beauty with the Mother House; at equal, but large distances, as 500 Paces. The 6 on the right hand the Garden are for the Men; The other 6 on the left are for the Women of Quality; whom the King weekly appoints, upon

a List given, to attend him, and enjoy the Pleasure of this Retirement, as I may say, from Court. Before those Pavil∣lons, and betwixt them, are the finest Alleys and Walks imaginable, with Foun∣tains, and all the Decorations of Treil∣lage and Flowers. Such a shew of not ordinary Tulips in broad Beds, of a 1000 Paces long, every where, all this vast Garden over, in their full beauty, was a most surprising sight. I could not for∣bear to say to the Duke de Villeroy, who was pleased much to accompany me in this Walk, That sure all the Gardens in France had contributed to this Profusion of Flowers; which he took so well, that the Marishal his Father; afterwards de∣tached himself to single me out, and very obligingly embraced me, and sa∣luted me with a Kiss, and followed it with very kind and familiar Discourse.

The Cascade coming down from the brow of the Hill, on that Front of the House which respects and stands near it, was new and singular, and of the Kings own invention, as, indeed, all the Gar∣den besides. From the House it appeared a Broad River, quietly gliding down the Hill; but when I went near it, I found it composed of 52 large square and shal∣low Basins of Water, disposed at right

Angles, and not declining, but falling over one into another.

In the Garden were many Fountains, nobly adorned, and had variety of Wa∣ter Pipes playing up into the Air in them. Here are some Gerbes of a singular fashi∣on, with a Circle of a great num∣ber of large Pipes, within at least two foot diameter; which made the appea∣rance of a vast Pillar of Water. There was one Jet d'eau in the bottom of the Garden, which we were told threw up Water 120 foot high; for of 50 and more Fountains, we saw but those on the side Alleys to play; most of the great Basins in the middle were mending, and dry. To furnish all this Water, there is a most stupendious Machine, which was invented by 2 Liegois. This Machine forces the Water up 560 foot, from the River Seine, to the top of the Tower or Aqueduct. It throws up 500 inches of Water by almost continued Ructations, or quick Pulses. It is wrought by 14 Wheels of 32 feet diameter each, set in the River, and carried about night and day by its Stream.

This Invention is the same with what is practised in the deep Coal-pits about Leeds in Lower-Germany; so that to see the Engines, and a great number of Iron

Cylinders or Water Pipes, lying bare above ground, and running up a vast Mountain, is to imagine a deep Coal-Mine turned wrongside outward.

The Tree most in use here, was the small leaved Horne-Beam; which serves for Arcades, Berceaus; and also Standards with Globular Heads: At the foot of which they have planted little Sprigs of the same of a foot and half high; and also in some places in like manner, whole areas full of them; which cut smooth and level, make the finest green Hedges I ever saw; Some of these low Hedges were 12 foot broad, and in a barren and dry Climate supply very artificially the use of Grass∣plots.

'Tis certainly very commendable in the King, who pleases himself in Plant∣ing and Pruning the Trees with his own Hand, to make use of no other Trees, but what the Neighbouring Woods afford; so that 'tis admirable to see whole Alleys of Pole Hedges of great height, and long Rows of goodly Standard Globes of 18 months growth only.

If this great King, as he grows older, should take a fancy to place himself in a warmer Climate, (and he has a good one of his own, as any under the Sun, in Languedoc) as he does his Winter Greens

in proper Houses; (and, me-thinks, this Instance alone should be sufficient, to convince him of the necessity there is to cherish decaying Nature, and that a Na∣turally warm Air is a better fence, than Cloaths or Fire) what Wonders would not his Purse and Passion for Planting do there?

The next Woods in Languedoc would afford Laurel, and Myrtles for Pole Hedges; Lentiscus's and Phylarea's in as great abun∣dance, as Hazel or Thorn with us. Also Jasmins for Arbors and Treillage; Cistus's and Rosmary, and a hundred other sweet smelling Woody Shrubs grow every where in the Fields, to furnish the Pots and Vasa.

There the tall Cypres's grow of them∣selves, to 60 and 100 foot high, like so many Towers; and also Tonsil at plea∣sure, for the most beautiful Pole Hedges imaginable. The very Fields are most Excellent, and well furnisht Parterrs of Flowers, and are Naturally Pottageries, or Kitchin Gardens. The Vineyards are very Orchards; and all the most tender Fruits with us are there Standards; as Figs, and Grapes of all sorts, Apricocks, Peaches, Nectorins, Jujubs, &c. The de∣licious and large Cherries; and, what∣ever has been said to the contrary, Pipins

and Pears there are in far greater per∣fection, than with us, or in any parts of France else, besides that happy Climate.

What was it for so great a King to make a Walk from Marli to Montpelier, or (if I might choose) to Pescenas, seated in the bosom of a well Watered Valley, inclosed with perfumed Hills. 'Tis not half so far as betwixt Lahor and Agria, two Seats the Mogul has thus joined. This would Eternise his Name, above any Palace he has yet built, and bring to himself much Health in his old Age. The Gardens of the Hesperides, and the Labyrinths of Cande, so famous in History, would be nothing to such wonderful Performances, as his Abilities and Happy Genius is capable of. For besides the Natural Product of the Countrey, the Climate also is capable of producing, and nourishing with small Art and Expence, what ever Plants both the Indies can af∣ford. Whereas, at this end of the World, we drudge in vain; and force a Pleasure which is dead, and gone before we can well enjoy it: We have indeed a kind of shew of the Summer Delights, but all on a suddain we drop into a long and tedious Winter again. But we love the Places we are used to, or born in. Man, to say the truth, is a very Animal,

as any Quadrupede of them all; and most of his Actions are resolvable into Instinct, notwithstanding the Principles which Custom and Education have super∣induced.

The pleasure of seeing is scarce to be tired; but yet after 2 or 3 hours Walk in so fine and great a Garden, I was forc't to make a halt behind the Com∣pany, and glad to retire to the gilt Bu∣reau in the Palace again, to refresh my self; where I found some of the Kings Officers waiting, and some other Gentle∣men of the Houshold, who had made se∣veral Campagnes in Flanders. I had now more a mind to a Glass of cool Burgun∣dy, than the insignificant Indian Liquors; which though I knew was against the sanctity of the place, yet nothing was denied me a Stranger. Here being alone, we fell into Discourse of the English, and of their King. They willingly allowed the English to be truly Brave; and now in Peace they found also, that they were as Civil, and well Bred, as Brave; That no Nation had given the King and his Court that satisfaction, that the English had done; being curious and inquisitive after all good things; They did see a great difference betwixt them and other Nations; They did not stare, and care∣lessly

run about, or hold up their Heads, and despise what they saw; but had a true relish of every good thing, and made a good Judgment of what was Commendable; and therefore the King took pleasure to have them shewed e∣very thing. This Discourse of the En∣glish they concluded with a great Enco∣mium of K. William.

As for their own King they were much in the Praise of him, as one may easily imagine: That his Retirement hither was mostly for his Health; That he left Versailles every Tuesday night, and came hither with a select Company of Lords and Ladies; That he returned not till Saturday night, and sometimes inter∣mitted 10 or 14 days; so that he spent half of his time here in Repose; That he was the most affable Prince in the World, and never out of Humour, of a pleasant and open Conversation where it pleased him; easie of access, and never sent any one away discontented; The most Bountiful Master in the World, of which there were Ten thousand Instances; nothing of Merit in any Kind, but he most readily and chearfully Rewarded, ever, of late years at least, preferring the Virtuous; so on the other hand, he never spared the Rebellious and Obstinate; That the

Government of his People could not be carried on with less severity and strict∣ness; nor the Taxes which was necessary to support it, raised; That he delighted not in Blood or Persecution; but that the Art of Government had different Rules, according to the Climate and Nature of the People, where and upon whom it was to be put in practice. His great Wisdom appeared in nothing more, than in pre∣serving himself amidst his Troops, his Converts, his Court and numerous Fa∣mily, all in a manner fit for the Throne. The greatness of his Mind, and Magni∣ficence, in his Buildings. This was the Sum of the Discourse these Gentlemen were pleased to entertain me with.

* 1.12At my return to Paris I was to see the Pipinerie, or Royal Nursery of Plants, in the Fauxbourgh of St. Honorie; where I met the Master or Controuler of it, Mon∣sieur Morley, one of the Ushers of the Bed-Chamber to the King.

He, like the rest of the French Nation, was Civil to me; and shewed me a Writ∣ten Almanack of Flowring Plants for the whole year, which he said was an Ori∣ginal; it might, indeed, be so in French, but we have had Almanacks for Fruit and Flowers, for every month in the

year, Printed divers times, for above this 30 years, thanks to Mr. Evelyn.

This Ground inclosed with high Walls is vastly big, as it ought to be, to sup∣ply the Kings Gardens; Here are several Acres of young Pines, Cypresses, Vues, &c. also vast Beds of Stock July-Flowers, of all sorts of Bulbes, as Tulips, Dafi∣dills, Crocus's, &c. and therefore I could easily believe him, when he told me, he had sent from hence to Marli alone, in 4 years time, 18 millions of Tulips, and other Bulbous Flowers; for which he offered to shew me his Memoires.

He further told me, that the furnishing the Trianon, (a peculiar House of Plea∣sure, with its Parterres at the end of the Gardens at Versailles) with Flower Pots in season, every 14 days in the Summer, took up no less than 92000 Pots from hence.

Also from hence he could Plant and furnish in 14 days time, any new Gar∣den the King should cause to be made.

Here besides the Plants common to us and them, I saw a multitude of Pots well conditioned of Staechas citrina folio latius∣culo.

Also a sort of Cotila, which bore large Sun Flowers or Marigolds, propagated by Slips, called by him Amaroutre.

In this Ground are several Houses to lodge the tender Winter Greens; a∣mongst the rest there is one very large, which I may call the Infirmery of sick Orange Trees; which coming from Genoa by Sea, are here deposited in a pe∣culiar Green House; and there were in it, and then actually carrying out into the Air, (it was the 22th of May our Style) 300 Trees in Cases as thick as a Man's Thigh; but after 10, and some after 17 years cherishing, had not yet got Heads decent enough to be removed, and to appear at Court, they being often forc't to lop both Tops and Root, that they might recover them.

After all, it must be said, that this Magnificence, and the number of these Palaces and Gardens, are the best and most commendable effect of Arbitrary Go∣vernment. If these Expences were not in time of Peace, what would be this Kings Riches, and the extream Poverty of the People? For it is said, that every 3 years, some say much oftner, he has all the Wealth of the Nation in his Coffers; so that there is a necessity he should have as extravagant and incredible ways of expending it, that it may have its due circulation amongst the People.

But when this vast Wealth and Power is turned to the Disturbance and Destru∣ction of Mankind, it is terrible; and yet it hath its use too: We and all Europe have been taught, by the Industry of this great King, mighty Improvements in War; so that Europe has been these 12 years an Over-match for the Turk; and we for France by the continuation of the War. The 40 Millions Sterling which the late War hath, and will cost England, before all is paid, was well be∣stowed, if it had been for no other end, than to teach us the full use and practice of War; and in that Point to equal us with our Neighbours.

It was observed by Polybius of the Ro∣mans, that wherever they met with an Enemy, that had better Weapons than themselves, they changed with them; This Docility gained them the Empire of the World. On the contrary, those late Eastern Tyrants have despised Learning, and consequently must submit to the more refined Valour of Europe. I say, the Effects of Arbitrary Govern∣ment, both in War and Peace, are Stu∣pendious.

The Roman Emperours, because abso∣lute Lords of the People; far out-did the Commonwealth in Magnificent Build∣ings,

both Publick and Private. Au∣gustus left Rome a Marble City, which he found of Brick only. Nero burnt it and rebuilt it, and a Golden Palace for himself, like a City. Vespatian and Titus built Amphitheaters and Baths far surpassing any Buildings now upon the face of the Earth; in one of which 120000 Persons might see and hear, and be seated with more convenience, than upon our Stages. Adrian visited most parts of the World, on purpose to build Cities. Trajan had his Name on every Wall, which he either restored, or built. His Pillar and Bridge over the Danube are Stupendious Monu∣ments of his Expences.

The Aegyptian Kings built them Monu∣ments, wherein they slaved their whole Nation, and which are the Wonders of the World to this day, the Obelisks I mean, and Pyramids.

The Asiatick Emperours of China and Japan have outdone the Europeans in this kind of immense Buildings, as the Wall in China, the Cut Rivers and Sluces and Bridges there. In Japan the Buildings are no less incredibly great.

Of this Absolute Dominion we have Examples even in those two American Empires, of Mexico and Peru. In this last, meer Nature forc't Impossibilities

without Art, Tools, or Science. The Cusco Fortress was a Master-piece, where Stones were laid upon Stones, which no Engine of ours could carry, or raise up; or Tools better polish, and fit together; where a Country near as big as all Eu∣rope, was turned into a Garden, and cul∣tivated better than Versailles, and Water-Works brought to Play and overspread some thousands of miles, where it never Rains. This was the only Arbitrary Go∣vernment well applied to the good of Mankind, I ever met with in History; where Roads and Store-houses of Food and Raiment were the Guides, and num∣bred the miles for the Travellers, and the whole Empire turned into an useful and intelligible Map.

As for the Turks, Persians, and Mogul, the whole Empire is intended solely for the Pleasure of one Man; and here even Tyranny it self is foully abused.

Yet I should be loth to see them in any kind exemplified in England. In our happy Island we see such Palaces and Gardens, as are for the Health and Ease of Man only; and what they want in Magnificence, they have in Neatness. There is not such a thing as a Gravel Walk in or about Paris, nor a Rowler of any sort; when it Rains the Tuilleries

are shut up, and one walks in Dirt some days after. The Grass Plots, or, as they call them Bowling Greens, are as ill kept, they clip them and beat them with flat Beaters as they do their Walks. This puts me in mind of what I saw in the Garden of the Prince of Conde in Paris; where there was a Grassy Circle of about 4 foot wide, round one of the Fountains in the middle of the Garden; to keep this down, and make it of a finer Turf, the Gardner had Teathered two Black Lambs, and two White Kids, at equal distances, which fed upon it. What ever the effect was, I thought it lookt pretty enough; and the little Animals were as Ornamen∣tal, as the Grass.

All the Paintings and Prints made of late years of the King make him look very old; which in my mind is not so; for he is plump in the Face, and is well coloured, and seems healthy, and eats and drinks heartily, which I saw him do; This is certainly an injury to him, and possibly in complaisance to the Dauphin, or worse. This is the meanest Compliment I have known the French guilty of to∣wards their Prince; for there are every where Expressions of an other nature all over Paris. See The Description of Paris, where they are collected and at large.

The Romans under Augustus, (the first Ab∣solute Master of that People, as this King is of the French) had upon this Subject from the People a much finer thought, and wish, De nostris annis tibi Jupiter au∣geat annos.

However it be, the King seems not to like Versailles so well as he did; and has an Opinion, that the Air is not so good, as elsewhere; he leaves it (as I said) every week on Tuesday night, and goes mostly to Marli, or Meudon, and some∣times to the Trianon, which is but at the end of the Gardens, and returns not to Versailles till Saturday night: Besides his extraordinary removes to Fontainbleau. I wonder no body puts him in mind of that Paradise of France, Languedoc, where he may be with ease in 4 days, at the Rate that Kings use to Travel. I had this Discourse at Table with one of the In∣troducteurs to the Ambassadour at Ver∣sailles; but he could not bear it, it being against the Interest of all settled Courts to remove, though it were never so good for their Princes Health. I remember but of one Instance in History, and that was Aurenzebe the Great Mogul, who in his middle Age fell desperately sick, and long languisht at Labor; but took Advice of some body about him, and went in

his own Kingdom a progress of 1000 miles to Casimire, a very mild and tem∣perate Climate, where he recovered, and lived to almost a 100 years old.

The King now seldom or never Plays, but contents himself sometimes with look∣ing on; but he hath formerly been en∣gaged, and has lost great Sums. Mon∣sieur S. Rookt him of near a Million of Livers at Basset, by putting false Cards upon him; but was imprisoned and ba∣nisht for it some years.

Before I give over the Business of Gar∣dens and Countrey, I will add some Re∣marks, which seemed particular and new to me.

In the Kitchin Gardens at and near Paris, are a great number of Apricock Standards; but kept low; very full of Blossoms, and good Bearers.

They make a Conserve of the Fruit; which I like above any of their Wet Sweetmeats; it was made by cutting them into thin slices, and throwing a∣way the Stone; which our People spare sometimes, and leave in the Flesh intire, and spoils the Sweetmeat, and sets it a fretting.

They imploy the Stones in Brandy, and distil them in Spirits.

In the beginning of April we had store of Sparagrass, but they were often so bitter, to me at least, that there was little pleasure in eating them. 'Tis certain they were much worse, than ours in England in that particular. Which puts me in mind of the Wild Sparagrass, which grows plentifully with us on the Sea Coast in Lincolnshire. This is very fair to the Eye; yet no culture of our Gardens, by often transplanting, could make it eat∣able. I fancy the Sparagrass recovers some∣thing of its natural force in a warmer Cli∣mate; for the sweet is as it were degene∣rated. If they would have them good here, they must renew the Seed from England or Holland.

The Wild Sparagrass of Languedoc is another Plant called Corruda.

I procured out of Languedoc a sort of Praecox Vine, about 50 Plants, by the Clermont Carrier; the which I gave to Mr. London, our Kings Gardner, for my Lord Ambassador. This Grape is White, very thin Skinn'd, and clear as a drop of Water; it is usually ripe at St. Johns∣mass in July at Montpellier, where it is called Des Ʋnies.

There are also in this Town Praecox Grapes, as Dr. Turnfort told me, in the Physick Garden; but whether the same with the Ʋnies, I know not.

I have said they delight much in Figs in Pots or Cases; but here is another way of preserving the Fig Trees set in the Ground, which is much practised; and that is to lap, and tie them up in long Straw, from top to bottom; for which they are placed at a little distance from the Walls. This also is practised to such Trees as stand in the middle of the Par∣terre; they did not open them till Mid-May.

The Exotic Trees, which the Parisians most delight in, for their Garden Walks, and for the Shade in their Courts, are the Maroniers, or Horse Chesnuts, of which they have innumerable; for the Fruit ripens very well here, and comes up of it self. Also the Acacia Rovini, which is very common, and makes pretty Alleys, and which they lop and turn to Pollards, with good effect; but of these last the Leaves are late in putting forth, it being the 15th of May our Syle, when these Trees were scarce green.

May 25, when I took my Leave of Monsieur Valliant, I found him in his Flower Garden; he shewed me a Parcel

of Ranunculus's, in full Flower, which he had received but two years before from Constantinople; They were very beautiful and rare, at least such as I had never seen; as pure White, White and Green, White and Strip't with Carnation, Pure Carnation or Rose-colour, Strip't Carna∣tion, &c.

Of these he had sold some a Pistol a Root, and hoped in a year or two to be more plentifully stock't with them, that he might afford them cheaper. I did see afterwards a few of them in the Royal Pipinerie, and also in the Seedsman's Gar∣den, Monsieur le Febre; but both came from him.

I also took notice of his Iron Cradles or Hoops over his Beds, which were re∣movable, and to be made higher and lower, according to the height and na∣ture of the Floors they were designed to cover. This, me-thoughts, was far be∣yond all the Inventions of Wooden Co∣vers, and might with Sail-Cloths and Mats well serve for a sort of portable Green House, to the less tender Plants.

I saw Le Febre's Flower Garden May 9. The Tulips were in their prime; indeed, he had a very large and plentiful Col∣lection. The Panacheé or Strip't Tulips were many, and of great variety. He

observed to me, that from his large and numerous Beds of self-flower'd Tulips, that is, of one colour, as Red, Yellow, &c. they expected yearly some Stript ones, which if perfect, that is, strip't in all the six Leaves, would but doubtfully continue, and perhaps return to their former state the next year; but if they laboured, or did not finish the stripings of all the six Leaves the first year, there were better hopes of their continuing in that state.

Though I had no mind to descend into the Stone Pits, which are like our Mines, Well-fashion, and the Stones wound up with great Wheels, to husband the Soil over them: Yet I went to Vanre, 3 miles from the Town, which is a ridge of Hills that runs along to the Observatoire. Here the Quarries are open on the side of the Hill, as with us. In those I observed 2 or 3 layers of Stone, 2 or 3 foot thick, mostly made up of Shells, or Stones in the fashion of Shells. Amongst these Shell-stones the most remarkable for bigness was a certain smooth and long Buccinum, tapering with very many spires. I measured one whose first spire was 8 inches diameter, the full length I could not so well come at; yet holding proportion with those of the kind which lay flat, and which we could see in their full length, it must have been

a foot long at least. There is no Bucci∣num in any of our Seas a quarter so big. Here are many of this Species. Also other large Turbinated Stones, which come near some of the West-India Kinds of Mu∣sic Shells, of which Genus yet there are none in the European Seas.

These Layers of Stone mixt with Shell-figured bodies, are at certain distances in the Rock, and other Rocks void of Shells interposed.

Fanciful Men may think what they please of this matter; sure I am, until the History of Nature, and more parti∣cularly that of Minerals and Fossils is better lookt into, and more accurately distinguisht, all Reasoning is in vain. It is to be observed, where Men are most in the dark, there Impudence reigns most, as upon this Subject: They are not con∣tent fairly to dissent, but to insult every body else. In like manner upon the Sub∣ject of Mineral Waters; How many Scriblers have there been, without any knowledge of Fossils?

I know not whether it be worth the not∣ing, but it shews the Humour of the French, that I saw in some Country Towns near Paris, the Church Wall near the top, had a two foot broad Mourning List, which compassed the whole Church like a

Girdle, and on this was at certain di∣stances, painted the Arms of the Lord of the Mannor, who was dead.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Tuilleries.
• * 1.2

  Physick Garden.
• * 1.3

  Garden of the Palais Royal.
• * 1.4

  Garden of the Arse∣nal.
• * 1.5

  Hostel-sul∣lie.
• * 1.6

  Louvois.
• * 1.7

  Furnier.
• * 1.8

  St. Clou.
• * 1.9

  Meudon.
• * 1.10

  Versailles.
• * 1.11

  Marli.
• * 1.12

  The Pipi∣nerie.