A journey to Paris in the year 1698 by Dr. Martin Lister.

* 1.1We were in Paris at the time of the Fair of St. Germain; It lasts six weeks at least: The Place where it is kept well bespeakes its Antiquity; for it is a very Pit or Hole, in the middle of the Fau∣bourg, and belongs to the Great Abbey of that Name. You Descend into it on all sides, and in some places above 12 Steps; so that the City is raised above it 6 or 8 Foot.

The Building is a very Barn, or Frame of Wood, Tiled over; consisting of ma∣ny long Allies crossing one another, the Floor of the Allies unpaved, and of Earth, and as uneven as may be; which makes it very uneasie to Walk in, were it not the vast croud of People which keep you up: But all this bespeaks its Antiquity, and the rudeness of the first Ages of Paris, which is a foil to its Politeness in all things else now.

The Fair consists of most Toy-shops, and Bartholomew-Fair Ware; also Fiance and Pictures, Joiners Work, Linnen and Woollen Manufactures; many of the great Ribban Shops remove out of the Palais hither: No Books: Many Shops of Confectioners, where the Ladies are com∣modiously Treated.

The great Rendezvous is at night, af∣ter the Play and Opera are done; and Raffling for all Things Vendible is the great Diversion; no Shop wanting two or three Raffling Boards. Monsieur, the Dauphin, and other Princes of the Blood come, at least once in the Fair-time, to Grace it.

Here are also Coffee-Shops, where that and all sorts of strong Liquors above∣mentioned are to be Sold.

Knavery here is in Perfection as with us; as dextrous Cut-Purses and Pick-Pockets. A Pick-Pocket came into the Fair at night, extreamly well Clad, with four Lacqueys with good Liveries attend∣ing him: He was caught in the Fact, and more Swords were drawn in his Defence than against him; but yet he was taken, and delivered into the Hands of Justice, which is here sudden and no Jest.

I was surprised at the Impudence of a Booth, which put out the Pictures of some Indian Beasts with hard Names; and of four that were painted, I found but two, and those very ordinary ones, viz. a Leopard, and a Racoun. I ask'd the Fellow why he deceived the People, and whether he did not fear Cudgelling in the end: He answered with a singular Confidence, that it was the Painter's fault; that he had given the Racoun to Paint to two Masters, but both had mistaken the Beast; but however, (he said) tho' the Pictures were not well design'd, they did nevertheless serve to Grace the Booth and bring him Custom.

* 1.2I saw here a Female Elephant betwixt 8 and 9 foot high, very lean and ill kept. Nothing could be more Docil than this poor Creature. I observed, she bent the

Joints of her Legs very nimbly in making her Salutes to the Company: Also that the Nails of her Fore-Toes, were large and almost five Inches long. This was from the Continent, having the Ears entire. I had seen one about 13 years ago in London much less, from the Island of Ceylon, of another Species with Scal∣lopt Ears, and the Tail with two rows of large, thick, and stiff black Hairs.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Fair of St. Germains.
• * 1.2

  Elephant.