The New atlas, or, Travels and voyages in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, thro' the most renowned parts of the world ... performed by an English gentleman, in nine years travel and voyages, more exact than ever.

CHAP. VII. Travels into Persia, and a particular Ac∣count of the Places, and what occured in the way to Ispahan, the Metropolis of the Kingdom.

THE famous Kingdom of Persia, so much Re∣nowned in History, is the Ancientest Monar∣chy now known in the World, having, for the most part, had an interrupted Succession of Kings, who have Govern'd that vast Region Valliantly, in wise Conduct, and much Glory.

It is bounded on the East with the great River Indus, on the South with the main Ocean, on the North with the Caspian-Sea, and on the West with the Tygris and Persian-Gulf, and is divided into 11 Provinces, viz. Persis, now called Far, Susiana, Ca∣ramania, Gedrosso, Drangiania, Irica, Arachossa, Pa∣rapomisus, Seccha, Hircania, and Ormus; all very large, and most of them Fertile.

On the confines of this Kingdom, we found Men Armed with Bows and Quivers, who stopped us, because we were advanced before the Caravan, but being certified that we belonged to it, they let us pass. These are the King's Officers, set on the Roads to examine Strangers, thereby to prevent Spys and Robbers entring into the Country, and are upon most Roads, having a pretty good Sallary out of the Treasury for their diligence; and they get much Money of Passengers.

Having passed these Men, we Travelled some∣times over Plains, then Hills, and then into Plains

again, and through many narrow Passages, seeing on either Hand a very fruitful Country, and the Persian's Houses, many of them being made of Cane, and built straglingly here and there; we often chang∣ed the Point, sometimes North, or East, or South-East, as the way led us, till we came by a Village of Cures, called Nian; the Hills about it were co∣vered with Turpentine, and wild Chesnut-Trees; the Waters bordered with Agnus Castus, and Rose-Laurels. Here the Weather altered, for it was very Cold in comparison of the Hot Countries we had passed before. From hence we passed to a Vil∣lage, called Chegiafer, it is composed of stragling Houses, of rough Stone, Earth, Cane, and Reeds, covered with green Branches; the former are their Summer-Houses, and the latter their Winter-Houses. Their Mosques in this place are built of rough Stone and Earth, and on the way there are many Kervanserais commodious to Inn at, very fine for the most part, being beautified with a kind of black Stone, some pollished and some rough; but passing on through a vast track of Country, we came to Hamadan, to which place the Caravan was bound.

Hamadan is a large Town, but in many places of it void spaces, there being many Gardens and Ploughed Fields within the Walls; the Houses are Stately, yet built of Brick baked in the Sun: It has one fair Street, where they sell Stuffs and Cloaths ready made; it has many Shops in it, and lies near the Bezestein which is little, but well compacted; and indeed it is a Town of a pretty Trade, many Caravans coming thither out of Turkey, and other parts, to buy and sell Merchandize, though the Air and Water are unwholsome, and no Wine to be found, so that I was very ill there, which made me hasten to be gone to a more agreeable Air. It is Commanded by a Cham, under the King of Persia, who is the same there, as a Bassa in Turkey. The Armenians have a Church here, but keep it in no good Order: To this and other Chams the King e∣very Year sends a Rich Vest, who go out of the

Gate to receive it, and return with it on, without a∣ny other Ceremony, then being attended by the chief Men of the place on Horseback, and this is usually Cloth of Gold.

From hence we took Mules with our Lading, for five Abasis a piece, and one of these will carry 600 weight, if need requires it; and so taking leave of those of the Caravan that staid to negotiate their Affairs, we set forward for Ispahan, the Regal City of Persia, and Metropolis of the Kingdom, in a ve∣ry strong Troop; for though such care has been ta∣ken, that Robberies are less frequented in Persia than in Turkey, yet it is prudence, however, to be armed against Danger, and passing early in the Morning through the King's Gate, so called, be∣cause it looks towards the Royal City: We Travel∣ed over Hills and Downs, the way often altering, from good to bad, till we came to the Town of Nischar, where we refreshed our selves in a ruinous Kervanserai, on the Ground, where Carpets were spread, and drank Water out of a leathern Jugg, called there a Matera: From thence we Marched along the River side, and came to lodg at another Village called Boulousch Kisar, and the next Day en∣camped under Trees near Haran, another Village, where we were warned by our Muliters, to keep a good Guard in the Night time, for they told us, Spys had been amongst us that Day, to visit our Arms, and see how we were provided; but whe∣ther they liked them not, or stood in fear, I know not; but certain it is, we had there no disturbance.

Early in the Morning we marched again, and passed by several pleasant Villages and Gardens, and foarding the little River Dizava, we came to a Town of that Name, lying amongst Gardens, in a spacious Plain, and here we had a plentiful shower of Rain, which was the first, except a little mizling in our way, since my departure from Aleppo; and so by a long Journey, taking in our way Sari, Debi∣le, Mouchasaba, Machat, Scheber-Gird, Angovan, Agatch, or Farsang, Nichova, Fagasun, Ithua, Ghul∣paigan,

Arbane, Deba, little Villages, and Towns of no great Note, and passing by divers Kervan∣serais, we came to Ispahan, having seen by the way several Antelopes, a great Beast, between a Deer and a Goat, very smift in running and climbing the Mountains.