The New atlas, or, Travels and voyages in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, thro' the most renowned parts of the world ... performed by an English gentleman, in nine years travel and voyages, more exact than ever.

CHAP. IX. Travels through Syria, and divers other Countries towards the Kingdom of Persia, with many remarkable Things occuring in so long and hazardous a Journey by Land, and Water.

HAving heard many Famous Things reported of Persia, too many here to enumerate; and be∣ing recruited with Bills of Exchange, and other Advantages for Travelling, it being a curiosity I was enclined too from my tender Years, I found an opportunity to go in good Company for Damascus. This City is still in good Reputation, and has six Gates, viz. the East Gate, the Sphaies, or Seraglio Gate, the Shoo Gate, the Gate of Paradise, the Gate of Peace, and St. Thomas's Gate: This City is an Hour and a quarters walk round it; but the Suburbs are as big again as the Town. It has in it many stately Buildings, some New, others of great Anti∣quity, having been Anciently the Capital City of Syria; but being on a Journey, I had not much lea∣sure to view it, or few other Towns or Cities on the way, therefore I shall but lightly touch on them in my Passage.

From hence we parted for Aleppo, which is one of the most considerable Cities of the Ottoman Em∣pire in Asia, by reason of the great Trade Merchants drive there; it is as large as Damascus, and has a fruitful Country lying about it. The Walls are strong and well fortified; it has ten Gates, and ma∣ny curious Buildings in it. This and the former are govern'd by Bassa's, who have large dependencies.

There is a Court of Wells, with a Canal full of good Fish, but the Turks, on some superstitious ac∣count or other, forbid any to take them, alledging, for excuse, that those who Eat them will fall Sick and Die. There are in this City People of all cu∣rious Trades, and were not the oppression of the Turks, as it is indeed all over the Ottoman Empire, very great, Riches would flow here in abundance.

From this place our Road lay to Mosul by the way of Bir, and Orfa the Ancient Edessa, but before we came to Bir we passed Euphrates in great Boats. This is a little Town in Mesopotamia, on the side of the River, and passing by small Towns, and the Ruins of some great ones, we came to Orfa; The Walls are about two Hours Walk in Circumference, and pretty entire, but the Town within, though it has been Fair and Stately, lies now mostly in Ruins. We refreshed our selves here, and passed on by Codg∣tasar, in the Country of Meredin and Nisibia; we saw in our way many Villages, some Towns, and other things of Note, as Job's Tomb, Fields of Mellons, Cucumbers, &c. Our way was some∣times over Mountains, then into Valleys, and now and then in Plains, seeing but few, except some few wandering People, who move from place to place, feeding Cattle, and carrying their Tents with them; and after a weary Journey, we came to M••∣sul, and entered it by Bagdad Capisi, that looks to∣wards the South, where we paid a Paistre to the Ja∣nisary that kept the Gate.

This City, Anciently called Aasour, stands on the side of the Tigris, which runs to the East of it. It is encompassed with strong Stone Walls, plaistered over; and these have little pointed Battlements on the top, 2 Fingers thick, and 4 or 5 broad. There is a Castle in the Water of an Oval Form, and pret∣ty strong, which keeps the Pass of the River. Ma∣ny of the Houses are fairly built with Freestone, and the City is about an Hours walk in compass: It has five Gates, beside that I mentioned. On the other side of the River is the place where once

stood the Famous City of Nineveh, and some of the Ruins are to be seen, and not far distant, a Tomb, wherein Jonah is said to be Buried. In Summer it is extream Hot, insomuch, that the People keep in Vaults in the heat of the Day, and some in Stone Troughs of cold Water.

Having recruited our Provisions here, it being July, to prevent the danger of the Semiel, or infe∣ctious Wind, which arises about this time, kills many that Travel by Land. I, and some of the Company, passed by Water on a Keleck, or a kind of a Float, fastned on a great many Leather Baggs, filled full of Wind; but they would not suffer us to carry any Wine on Board, foolishly fancying, that it would fink their Boat; and in this we did wisely, for we afterwards heard of many that passed by Land, who were not accustomed to that Wind, di∣ed, being stifled or Poysoned with the infectious Air. In our Passage we saw many Towns and Vil∣lages; and Men, Women, and Cattle were swim∣ing their Passage over the River. In the Night we heard the Lions Roar on either Hand, which made us keep from the Shoar, least they should leap into our Kelechs, though the Natives would perswade us, they were afraid of a Man, and that the Arabs usually pursued and killed them with a Staff; but we thought fit not to lay too much stress upon this, for I had heard in Mosul, that many who had strag∣led from the Caravans, had been snaped by them, for they rove in great numbers, and Fire-Arms are the best defence against them; besides, we were forced to stand on our Guard, for fear of the Thieveish Arabs, who often get aboard by swiming, and surprise these Kelechs, nor did they fail to A∣larum us, but when we espied them, they Dived, and got to Shoar, and by that means escaped our Shot we made at them: But to be Brief, at last we came to Bagdad. This is a long Town, lying on the River: The first thing that appears is the Ca∣stle, to the side of the River, on the left Hand, and seems to be very well Fortified. It is built of

curious white Stone, though the generality of the Houses in the Town are low and inconsiderable; it is very strong on the Land-side, and in circuit Large, requiring at least two Hours to compass it, at a moderate pace on Foot; there are lovely Bagnios, and fair Bazars in it. It was Founded by the Per∣sians, but taken from them by the Turks, and has a Bassa for their Governor. It stands advantageous enough on the Tygris, but is thinly Peopled, by rea∣son of the Licentiousness of the Soldiers, who are scarcely under any Command.

It is extream Hot in this place in the Summer time, as in all others of the same Latitude. There are but few Fruit-Trees hereabouts, but every where store of Licorice. They generally use Oyl of Naphta in their Lamps, it being plentiful in their Borders. They often send their Expresses from place to place by Carrier Pidgeons, fastning the Note about their Necks, which they exactly per∣form, unless they are killed by the way, which rarely happens.

I found here a Caravan, mostly consisting of Per∣sians, bound for Hamaden in Persia; this opportu∣nity I and others embraced, though we found the Retinue did not exceed sixty, slenderly Armed, and mostly without Tents, appearing resolute and hardy; and passing Caranluocapi, leaving on the left the Persian Tower Adgdadom Coulasu, we came near Lock∣man Hakin, and encamped there all Day, where the Chakales entertained us with Musick: From thence we Marched, and Lodged in a Village, called Aacube, under the pleasant Shade of divers spreading Palm-Trees, and so proceeded Eastward to Harounia, where are many pleasant Gardens, and passing by Adiga and Immanisker, and many other Villages, we were informed the Arabs lay in wait for us in the narrow Passes, which caused us to get 15 Jani∣saries well Armed; but we needed them not, meet∣ing with no opposition, for we safely arrived at Mendeli, the utmost bounds of the Turks, on the Frontiers of Persia: It is a little Town and Castle

among Palm-Trees, made with Mud and Clay, and here we rested some time.