Remarks upon the manners, religion and government of the Turks together with a survey of the seven churches of Asia, as they now lye in their ruines, and a brief description of Constantinople / by Tho. Smith ...

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

COnstantinople seems to have the advantage of most Cities in the World for situation,* 1.1 either in re∣spect of the pleasantness of its pro∣spect; or for security against the at∣taques of an enemy, it being natu∣rally fortified, and might be made impregnable by art; or for its nar∣row passage into Asia; as if, in all changes and revolutions of govern∣ment, designed by God for the chief seat of Empire and command. The high hills, upon which it is seated, add much to the beauty and glory

of it; several knots of Cypress-trees appearing 〈◊〉〈◊〉 set upon them, that to one sailing in the Propontis, it looks like a City placed in the mid∣dle of a wood: but in the haven it resembles a great Amphitheatre, the houses like so many steps rising or∣derly one above another; the gilded spires of the Moschs reflecting the light with great pleasure to the eye: so that to all travellers it seems just∣ly the most delightful, the most ad∣mirable, and most charming specta∣cle of nature: and what would even satisfy for the tediousness and fa∣tigues of a Sea-voyage, were there nothing in it to please the fancy or curiosity besides.

Though it lies upon the Sea,* 1.2 yet on both sides the passages to it are so narrow, that there can be no coming at it without great difficul∣ty.

The entrance to it toward the Mediterranean is by the Hellespont,* 1.3 which is there about five miles over: where is a perpetual current into the Archipelago, which is strong and

violent, and especially when the wind is at North, which blows for the most part here and at Constanti∣nople eight or nine months of the twelve: the want of a Southerly wind, which is necessary to get up the channel, making the passage ve∣ry long and tedious. Neer the two head lands the Turks have, since the beginning of the war: of Candia, built two Castles, to prevent the landing of the Venetians, who be∣fore past unmolested with their ships and galleys up as high as the Dar∣danels. In the Castle on the level within Cape Janizary, anciently Promontorium Sigaeum on the Asian shore I counted six and twenty great guns in front; and about sixteen on the side toward Tenedos. A little above at the end of a long sand is the river Scamander. Sailing di∣rectly in the middle of the stream, the guns can do no great execution.

The Hellespont widens hence East∣ward, till almost at an equal distance between the Aegaean and Propon∣tick

Seas (for it ends at Gallipoli) you arrive at the narrowest strait, being scarce three quarters of an English mile over: where are two strong Castles to command the pas∣sage; which the Turks call Boghas∣hisar, * 1.4 or the Castles in the strait or jaws of the channel, but better known to the Christians by the name of the Dardanelli; directly opposite to one another.* 1.5 The Castle of Sestos on Europe side, lying under a hill, is triangular: having twenty five guns level with the water; and a Bastion at each angle: in the mid∣dle an high Tower consisting of three semicircles, encompassing a square fortification.* 1.6 Abydus on the opposite shore lies in a plain; the Castle square, having about sixteen guns, which almost touch the sur∣face of the water. On the sides are raised round Towers, and in the middle an oblong work. The strength of these Castles is the great security of Constantinople; no ships being able to get by without manifest dan∣ger of being sunk: and if at any

time a ship or gally coming from Constantinople have part, helpt for∣ward by the current and a brisk Northerly gale, it ought not to be ascribed so much to good fortune or a wily stratagem, as to the careles∣ness and stupidity of the Castellans. For any but Turks, who do not well understand fortification, and the use of great guns, to make them bear to the best advantage, would infal∣libly, humanely speaking, defend and secure the passage.

On the other side the Euxine Sea,* 1.7 Constantinople is defended by the Bosphorus, whose channel is about eighteen miles in length. The first Castles, which guard each side of it, are about five miles from the City, built by Mahomet the great, from which about nine miles to the se∣cond, where the distance between the two shores is not much above a mile. The current so violent, espe∣cially when the wind blows hard at North, that the water-men, who pass toward the black Sea, are at such times forced to go ashore, and hale

their boats. I observed in several pla∣ces a ripling or bubbling of the wa∣ter, as in the Race at Portland. In the several turnings and windings are large Bays for small Vessels, (made by the Promontories, which run out so far, that they seem at a distance to stop the passage) espe∣cially on the Thracian shore, upon which several Villages are situated, and where the Bassa's and other great men have their villas and hou∣ses of pleasure. The Bithynian shore, for the most part covered with wild Olive, Chesnut, and Cypress-trees, seems to be one continued wood or garden, and yields a plea∣sant and curious entertainment to the eye, Almost in the entrance or mouth of the Bosphorus are placed several rocks,* 1.8 the Symplegades of the ancients, which break the force of the waters continually poured out of the black Sea. On Europe side I counted four, which lye so close one to another, that the Sea at some little distance not being discerned to run between, they seem to joyn to∣gether.

In the greatest of them re∣mains still a pillar of white marble of the Corinthian order, about eighteen foot in height, commonly called by the Western Christians, Pompey's pillar, as if it had been erected by that great man,* 1.9 in me∣mory of a victory gained over Mi∣thridates King of Pontus. But this is the invention of an ignorant and trifling fancy, taken up without any ground of reason or old tradition, (just after the same manner as they call the ruines, which are neer Bel∣grade a Village about four miles from the Bosphorus, by the name of Ovid's Tower) and is sufficiently confuted by the inscription upon the basis, where is plainly legible the name of Augustus Caesar, though the remain∣ing part is so effaced, that conjectures are different. But the best and truest I take to be this;

AVGVSTO CAESARI
E. CLAV. ANNIDIVS.
LE. CLASSIS I PONTO.

On the neighbouring shore is a Pharus or Watch-Tower, a very state∣ly and elegant structure, and built long before the Turks were masters of a foot of land in Europe, now serving for a light house to direct Vessels in the nigh to enter the Bosphorus with greater ease and safety: which I ascended that I might take the better view of the Euxine, which not so much for want of good Ports, as for their ignorance in the Mariners art, becomes in foul and stormy weather so dange∣rous and fatal to the Turks.

This situation of Byzantium be∣tween two Seas rendred it a place of great trade & commerce long before the times of Constantine,* 1.10 who restored it to its ancient glory out of its rub∣bish, the Emperor Severus through indignation and revenge, for the long and stout opposition the Citizens made in favour of Pescennius Ni∣ger, having long before ruined and demolished it. All the products and commodities of Greece, Aegypt and Mauritania may with great ease and

convenience of shipping be brought hither. It joyns upon the lesser Asia, where Souldiers and all sorts of provision may be conveyed in an hours space. Besides, the various nations which inhabit all along the coasts of the Pontick Sea, and the lake of Maeotis here find a quick vent for their merchandise: as do the several Christian Nations, as the Cossacks, Moldavians, and Walla∣chians, and those of Podolia, who live either toward the Sea or nigh the great rivers of Boristhenes or the Danube: beside the Persian and Armenian Merchants and those of Christendom. So that however the winds chance to blow, Ships may come in continually from the one Sea or the other: they are supplied especially from the black Sea with Corn, Furs, Wax, Honey, and the like.

The present name of Constanti∣nople is Istanpol,* 1.11 or according to the common and ordinary pronun∣ciation, Stambol: which plainly shews it not to be originally Turkish, for

Istamboul a City full of or abound∣ing with the true faith, as some most ignorantly fancy, but corrup∣ted from the Greek: the Turks for the most part retaining the old names of Cities, though with some little variation accommodating them to their own language, as Adriane, Bursia, Esmir, Budun, Saloniki, Co∣nia for Adrianople, Prusia, Smyrna, Buda, Thessalonica, and Iconium.

It lies over against Scutari,* 1.12 for∣merly Chrysopolis, about the distance of a league on the other side of the water on the Bithynian shore, which seems to be built out of the ruines of Chalcedon,* 1.13 not far distant from it: which is situated in the bottom of a narrow and shallow Bay. It is now a poor beggarly Village, having lost its old name, and known only by that of Kadi-kuy: though out of re∣spect to what it was in ancient times, it still retains the dignity of a Me∣tropolitical seat among the Greeks; the curious and stately Church con∣secrated to the memory of Saint Euphemia Virgin and Martyr, being

the only remainder of its formor greatness and magnificence. But to return to Constantinople.

It is cast into a triangular figure;* 1.14 the vertex of which is a point of land to the East, called by the Greeks the Promontory of St. Demetrius, on which is built the Seraglio or Palace of the Emperor. The greater side, which lies upon the Propontis, runs N. W. and S. E. about the space of six miles from the point to the seven Towers. The other side, which makes the haven, winding like a horn, called therefore by Strabo 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, lies East and West; and may be almost three miles in lenght. The basis is the Isthmus, which unites it to the Champaign and Continent of Thrace, and lies meridionally from the Sea to the upper part of the ha∣ven, almost four miles long, having three walls running in a strait line, as far as the ruines of Costantines Palace, (neer which is the greatest eminence of the City) where is a turning at a small distance from the Port, and only a single wall, like the

other two sides, which are washed with the Sea.* 1.15 So that the compass of the whole is between twelve and thirteen miles; the latitude various, and at about two miles at the widest, which is caused by the approach or distance of the several parts of the opposite angles. It is advantageously placed,* 1.16 as I said before, upon the ri∣sing of several hills; seven of which are most conspicuous for their great heigth; most of them have upon their tops very stately Moschs built after the model of Sancta Sophia, whose cuppolas and pyramids seem almost to reach the clouds. But of these Moschs I shall have occasion to speak distinctly.

No place perchance in the World deceives a mans expectation more than Constantinople,* 1.17 it promising so largely at a distance both from the land and Sea: but when you enter into it, all the glorious outward ap∣pearance seems but a delusion of fancy. The streets narrow and un∣equal, and by reason of their steepi∣ness in several places, troublesome

to walk in, except one fair street, which crosseth the City from the Se∣raglio to Adrianople gate. And how∣ever the narrowness of the streets (though it detracts much from the sightliness and beauty of a place) may be excused for the benefit it af∣fords in sheltering passengers from the rayes of the Sun, yet the filth and nastiness is intolerable; dung∣hils and great wastes of ground, caused by fire, being every where to be met with. The ordinary houses are generally very low and mean,* 1.18 and without any ornament of build∣ing or strong materials; only a few bords clapt together, and the walls of clay, baked in the Sun. Some few houses of the Greeks remain, which are built of stone, and high: which shew what Constantinople was be∣fore the Turks cut and broke down all the carved and stone-work with their scymitars, and axes, and ham∣mers, and set fire upon the holy pla∣ces and Palaces, and pull'd down the Cross, and set up their half-Moon in∣stead of it.

The Bassas houses are but little better:* 1.19 no portico or pillar at the entrance; no curious walks adorned with rows of trees in their gardens; no pictures or statues; no hangings, no fret-work in their ceiling; their outward Courts rude and irregular. They take up indeed a great com∣pass of ground: and the portals are checkered with several colours, as red, blue, yellow: their rooms are above stairs, which lead into a gal∣lery or hall; the chambers little boxes, the chief furniture of which lies upon the floor: though some∣times the roof is gilt, and the sides covered with tiles, with flowers and foliage painted, and sometimes, though very rarely, with cedar∣wainscot: they being afraid to build rich and great Palaces; not only be∣cause it would be lookt upon as an argument of a foolish and vain pride, but also of ostentation of their rich∣es, and what might really prove a snare, and draw the envy and ill-will of the Emperor upon them.

The walls are considerably thick and high,* 1.20 and serve equally for de∣fence and ornament. Toward the Propontick there runs a ledge of rocks under water at some distance from the shore, which keeps off Ships of greater burthen, and only admits Galleys and Brigantines which draw but little water. Part of this wall, weakned by the vio∣lence of the waves, or thrown down by earthquakes, was repaired and rebuilt by the Emperor Theophilus, this inscription being to be found in several places:

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Under the Seraglio-point, upon a platform, about four or five and twen∣ty feet broad to the wall, gained from the Sea, are planted about fifty pieces of Cannon: one of which they are very chary of, as being the first which was discharged at the siege of Bagdat, which they afterwards so succesfully carried on: to which is

opposite a small Castle not far from the other shore, which they call by the name of Kizkolasi or the Virgin Tower. These walls are built of free∣stone, and only here and there pieced up with brick and uneven stones clapt in: a few breaches being left, I suppose, out of design, unrepaired in the wall to the landward, made by their guns when they lay before it. Here in the uppermost wall of the three are about two hundred and fifty square Towers with battle∣ments, built at an equal distance: to the middle space of which, an∣swer other Towers in the second wall, making so many isosceles trian∣gles: the third a plain wall, now sunk very much in the ground; the ditch from the high-way to the skirts of it being about five and twenty of my paces. Without are no suburbs, except two or three farm-houses, and toward the haven; the Countrey lying open: which renders the pro∣spect of Constantinople as pleasant and glorious to the eye upon the land as upon the Sea:* 1.21 and indeed

the walk from the seven Towers, where I had occasion to go often, to the haven, all along these walls, seemed to be the most delightful and diverting of all that ever I took in my whole life.

The gates are about five and twen∣ty in number,* 1.22 whereof seven are to∣ward the Propontis in this order, be∣ginning from the Seraglio point:

Achur-kapi, or the Stable-gate, nigh which are the stables of the Grand Signor.

Chatlad-kapi, or the Cleft-gate.
Kum-kapi, or the Sand-gate.
Jeni-kapi, or the new gate.

Daoud Bassa-kapi; repaired by a Basha of that name, and hence it takes its denomination.

Samathia-kapi.

Narli-kapi, or the Pomegranate-gate.

To the landward these, which front the West.

Jedicoula-kapi, or the gate of the seven Towers: which some, wholly

ignorant of the Turkish language, have through a gross mistake called Janicula.

Selivrea-kapi, the gate which leads to Selymbria.

Top-kapi, or the Gun-gate.
Jeni-kapi, or the new gate.

Edriane-kapi, or Adrianople-gate, as leading directly thither.

Egri-kapi, or the crooked gate.

Ivanseri-kapi, in the plain not far from the water side.

To the Haven.

Balat-kapi, I suppose, corrupted from Palatium; leading up towards the ruines of the Palace of Constan∣tine; as they commonly call them. This gate is in the furthest recess of the Canal, or arm of the Sea, divi∣ding Constantinople from Pera and Galata: into which run two little rivers, which have long since lost the ancient names of Cydrus and Bar∣byses.

Petri-kapi, I suppose, from a Chri∣stian Church neer it, dedicated for∣merly

to the honour and memory of St. Peter.

Phanar-kapi, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or the Lant∣horn-gate. Here and at Gun-gate the Turks first broke into the City: the poor Greeks having raised a wall upon the side of the hill, not daring to trust to that by the water side, to this day called by them in their vulgar language, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Gebali-kapi, or the Hill-gate, or as others pronounce it, Giob-ali, the deep Well-gate.

Vnkaban-kapi, or the Meal-gate; neer which are the publick grana∣ries.

Odun-kapi, or the Wood-gate: over which may yet be seen this mo∣ral sentence,

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Yemish-kapi, or the Fruit-gate.

Balukbazar-kapi, or the Fish∣market-gate.

Balkaban-kapi, or the Honey-gate.

Zindan-kapi, or the Prison-gate.

Bahchia-kapi, or the Garden-gate, hard by the Seraglio.

The Emperor's Palace; which the Turks call Padisha Serai (from which latter word,* 1.23 which in the Persian language signifies any state∣ly Mansion, the Italians, from whom we and the French borrow it form their Seraglio, and appropriate it hereto) is situated partly upon the plain, and partly upon the rising of the hill, which overlooks the Pro∣montory at the very entrance into the haven; having the Thracian Bosphorus on the East: upon which point the current sets so violently, that Vessels oftentimes upon the slacking and scantiness of wind are cast upon it, and get off with very great difficulty.

Two sides of it, taking in the gar∣dens belonging to it, are washed by the Sea: the third to the land, flank∣ed with Towers, which jet out. Here in all likelyhood stood old Byzan∣tium: afterward in the succeeding ages of Christianity was placed here-abouts a Colledge of religious

persons belonging to the neighbour∣ing Church of Sancta Sophia. Se∣veral years past after the taking of Constantinople, before the Turkish Emperors made it their residence: Mahomet the great abandoning the Greek Emperor's Palace, either be∣cause demolisht in the time of the siege, or as ominous to himself and successors, having fixt his seat almost in the center of the City: called to this day Eski-serai or the old Palace, which has but one gate, and the walls very high: where the women of the deceased Emperor are con∣veyed and shut up as close prisoners without any hope of liberty, except when they are bestowed as wives upon the great favourite Bassas; being only permitted at the feast of Bairam, to come and make their complements to the Hasaki Sultana or the chief woman of the Emperor, who has been so happy as to bring him a boy in the Seraglio. The whole enclosure comprehending the gardens and spacious Courts, may take up about two miles in compass.

The gate to the landward, which is the usual entrance, (the rest seldom opened, except upon great occasion) is always guarded by Capigies, the in-side hung with shields, darts, guns, and spears; without any great or∣nament, two pillars of course mar∣ble propping up the sides. It opens into a Court, whose area may be between three and four hundred pa∣ces in length, but not proportiona∣bly wide; the whole lying rude. On the left-hand is a great building, where the Agiamgolaus, who do all the drudgery and all the vile offices about the Seraglio are quartered: as also a round building, supposed to have been a Sacristia of Sancta Sophia, but now turned into an Ar∣mory. On the right is an Hospital, where such as fall sick within the Seraglio, are brought for cure. At the second gate, guarded also by Ca∣pigies, (over which there is the often mentioned form of the profession of the Mahometan Faith written in Arabick in large golden letters) the chief Vizir must dismount, only the

Emperor himself riding on horse-back into the second Court; which is very stately. The area square, a portico covered with lead and sus∣tained by pillars of Theban marble, whose bases and chapiters are bound with brazen circles, running round it. The walks curiously laid out into parterrs on the sides of the pa∣ved walks, and set with rows of Plane-trees and Cypresses, and a fountain in the middle. At the fur∣ther end on the left-hand is the Di∣van or Council-Chamber;* 1.24 where the great Vizir and in his absence his Deputy or Caimacam, assisted by the Cadileskires and other men of the law, administers justice four times every week, that is, Saturday, Sun∣day, Monday, and Tuesday; from whose sentence there lies no reme∣dy of appeal. At the upper end is a casement, which opens into it, where the Grand Signor often comes, (though he cannot be seen there) out of curiosity or design, to hear the determination of cases brought be∣fore them.

This Court of Judicature is not thronged with idle spectators, here is no place for such curiosity; only business or a particular citation draws company hither; much less is it permitted to strangers to be pre∣sent at such times. Mahomet Ku∣priuli Father to the late Vizir Ach∣met, who took Candia, one day espy∣ing several French Gentlemen pre∣sent, demanded their business: they presuming upon the innocence of their curiosity, answered, they only came to see: which put him into a fit of passion, What, said he, do you take us for monkeys, which shew tricks, that you come here to gaze and stare upon us? whereupon they were rudely thrust out, and upon their alledging they were strangers, and knew not the customs of the Countrey, with very great difficulty they escaped drubbing. To prevent the like affront or danger, I made a pretence of debt upon a Jew in Smyrna, and attended by our chief Interpreter, by whose contrivance the little plot was laid, went boldly

into the Seraglio to demand justice; my request was very plausible; and upon the proposal of it, they granted me a warrant to arrest my Jew in case the debt was not speedily satis∣fied, the fees not coming to above one hundred or six-score aspers. The inmost part of the Seraglio beyond the third gate, and the womens apartment, is kept secret, and to Christians inaccessible, except upon extraordinary occasions. The whole, (though not built according to the rules of modern Architecture, not to be compared with the Palaces of Christian Princes) as to the outward appearance seems handsome and stately.

For the better accommodation of Merchants and travellers,* 1.25 (there be∣ing no such thing as an Inn in our acception of the word in Turkey) Chanes or publick lodgings are ere∣cted in the chief streets of the City: from the free use of which no one of what Countrey or Religion soever is exempted or debarred, called for distinction either by the names of

their several Founders, or from the peculiar sort of Merchandise, to which they are appropriated, as the Silk Chane, or the Rice Chane, and the like. The two best and state∣liest I saw are those of the present Emperor's Mother neer her Mosch toward the haven, and of Kupriuli in Taouk-bazar or the Hen-market. But the figure and the use are the same in all. They are built for the most part of squared stone, in the middle of the area is a little Mosch. A stone-gallery above the stairs run∣ning round, and little narrow cham∣bers opening into it; and the like below in Chanes of a late founda∣tion: for in those which are ancient, there is no division into stories or partition into rooms; but all lies open like a great barn under the same roof: a little wall about a foot and a half high, and four or five feet broad, being raised round with chimneys at three or four yards di∣stance.

The Bezesten or Exchange is a square stone-building,* 1.26 where they sell

linnen, cloth of London, as they call our woollen manufacturies, Furs, &c. but this must not be compared with that at Prusia either for great∣ness or ornament.

The publick Bagnos,* 1.27 which are for the uses of strangers, and such as cannot furnish out so great an ex∣pence, as to have them in their hou∣ses, (there being a continual necessity of bathing, not only upon the account of religion, but also of health in those hot Countreys) are built of a courser sort of marble with a large cuppola. In the outward room there is a fountain, round which a seat of brick covered with mats, where they undress themselves: out of which you go through a narrow passage in∣to a spacious room comprehended under the cuppola, little oblong squares setting out in the sides. Up∣on the first entrance, except care be taken before-hand to reduce the bo∣dy to such a temper, so as to endure the heat, one shall scarce be able to fetch breath, unless with great dif∣ficulty, and be almost stifled with the

hot exhalations, which are so gross, that oftentimes finding no vent and reverberated by the roof, they are condensed, and fall down in thick drops of water.

Constantinople owes the chiefest part of its present glory to the great Moschs,* 1.28 which were either formerly Christian Churches, or else built and endowed by several Emperors and other great men. Of these and their Founders, who have adorned the profession of their Religion with such pomp and magnificence, the Turks, after the manner of their eloquence, which consists in foolish and in∣discreet hyperboles, use swelling words of vanity. By the vast∣ness of the structures they judg of their zeal and piety; and the greatness of the revenue is an argu∣ment and proof of their successes and victories: custom by the be∣witchery of the Mufti and the other Church-men prevailing, that no Em∣peror can assume the honour of building a Mosch, except he has gained so much ground in Christen∣dom,

with the revenue of which he may maintain the publick service of religion in it, in part at least, as if it were offering up a proportion of the spoil to God by way of acknowledg∣ment and gratitude. Which con∣sideration must needs have a mighty influence upon them to carry on their wars with all imaginable vigour, not only out of a desire of fame to imi∣tate and equal the glory of their pre∣decessors, but out of a principle of zeal and conscience. They make a fine shew, especially toward the haven, and are seen at a great di∣stance; situated for the most part on the hills; and though not all in a strait line, yet the heigth takes off so much from the obliqueness of the angle, that the eye is at no trouble or loss to find them out.

Aia Sophia; for so the Turks call Sancta Sophia, without any other variation from the old Greek name.

Achmets in the Hippodrome.

Bayazids.

Suleimans, neer the old Sera∣glio.

Shahzadeh. This built by Su∣leiman also in memory of his Son Mahomet, the eldest he had by a Russian woman, whom we call from her Countrey, Roxolana, who died in his youth in his government at Magnesia.

Mahomets, who took the City. This was formerly a Christian Church dedicated to the memory of the H. Apostles: in which many of the Greecian Emperors lye bu∣ried.

Selims, who was the Father of Suleiman. He overthrew the go∣vernment of the Mamalucks, and subdued Egypt.

Another Mosch of Mahomet the great, which they call Phatih giame or the Conqueror's Mosch for distin∣ction. This was a Christian Church dedicated to the B. Virgin St. Mary; and after the taking of the City given to Gennadius Scholarius then Patriarch for the Patriarchal Church, but afterwards seized on by this Emperor for the services and uses of his own false religion.

Sancta Sophia appears still a most glorious structure,* 1.29 though the Turks are not so careful about the beauty and ornament and reparations of it, as of the other Moschs. The con∣trivance and architecture are very admirable, fully answering the de∣scription given of it by Procopius Caesariensis, who was contemporary with the most glorious Emperor Ju∣stinian the Founder, and one of the officers of his Court. A stately por∣tico at the entrance from the ascent; five gates covered with plates of Corinthian brass lead into the nave of the Church. Its length about one hundred and twenty of my pa∣ces, and almost half as wide. The whole fabrick resting upon arches is upheld by three rows of pillars of different marble, Serpentine, Porphy∣ry, and a kind of Alabaster, whose bases and capitels are bound about with brass wreaths. In the middle there arises a large cuppola, suppor∣ted by four massy pillars, and encom∣passed without with many little cup∣polas, some higher than the rest:

several little Chappels of an oblong figure toward the sides. There is an ascent by a winding pair of stairs into the galleries, which take up three sides of the Church, supported by several curious marble pillars. The pavement both of the Church and gallery is marble, not made up of little squares, but of very large tables: the walls crusted over and slagged with the same. The roof of the Church and portico in mo∣saick; though the Turks have de∣faced the faces of several figures; yet notwithstanding several repre∣sentations of sacred history may be clearly enough discerned.

The two next best Moschs are Su∣leimans and Achmets.* 1.30 In the mid∣dle of the Court, which encompasses the former, is a large square foun∣tain covered at top. The portico adorned with very curious tall pil∣lars; the pavement laid with large tables of porphyry: the cuppola propt up by four pillars of the same sort of marble, whose circumference may be about twenty foot, the spoils

of a Christian Church: for such art and curiosity are above the reach and skill of Turks.

Into Achmets Mosch there is an ascent of twelve stone-steps,* 1.31 the gate of brass curiously wrought: the four arches of the cuppola upheld by four pillars of cast marble, as I judg it to be, of a very vast bulk. It still retains the name of the new Mosch, though divers have been built since, and a stately one very lately neer the garden gate toward the ha∣ven by the Mother of the present Emperor, a Russ by Nation, and the daughter of a poor Priest.

That which is common to all the Royal Moschs is this;* 1.32 several gates open into the area; within which are fountains or conduits full of cocks and basons for their cleansing, before they make their prayers; close adjoyning an Hospital, and porticos built arch-wise, the little cuppolas covered with lead running all along in an even line: usually four spires or cylindrical towers of a great heigth, which the Priests ascend

to call the people to their devotion, raised from the ground, and placed at a due distance and in opposite corners including a square space; except at Achmets Mosch, where there are six. Each of these have a threefold gallery, one above another. the tops of these towers are gilt and end in a point like a pyramid, on which is placed a gilded Crescent, the ensign of the Mahometan reli∣gion, and so generally where-ever there is any Mosch or oratory; though never so mean and little. The name of God or of Mahomet, or his four chief companions, or the form of the profession of the Musul∣man faith inscribed upon the inside of the walls: and lastly, several iron circles or hoops containing a vast number of chrystal lamps used to be lighted at their night prayers: so that with the reflexion from the arches and pillars, the Church seems to be of a light fire.

Within the enclosure of the out∣ward* 1.33 wall are the sepulchral monu∣ments of the several Founders and

their children: for no one lies bu∣ried in their Churches, no not the Emperors themselves. They are built of white marble with a cuppola. The marble coffins, which are very large and above the proportion of their bodies, lying in a space encom∣passed with iron-grates, two great tapers being placed at the end, are covered for the most part with a silk Pall of a deep green, having a good fringe, their turbants, which they re∣new every year, being placed over their heads. Their women lye neer them; but their coffins are not so large, nor raised so high from the ground, covered with purple or vio∣let cloth. The coffins of their chil∣dren are bigger or less according to the age at which they dyed. Such as have been strangled by their Bro∣thers, who usually since the reign of Bayazid the second lay the founda∣tion and beginning of their Empire in fratricide, have a handkerchief tied about their necks, as a sign of their unnatural death. These little Chappels are frequented by several

Priests and other pensioners, who are obliged to come and say prayers for the souls of the deceased. Several Emperors, who have not been Foun∣ders of Moschs, have their monu∣ments neer Sancta Sophia, as Selim the son of Suleiman with his thirty seven children; Morat the third, who had a more numerous issue: for I told about five and forty; Maho∣met the third, Mustapha the great Unkle, and Ibrahim the Father of this present Emperor, both by a strange fate preferred to the Em∣pire, and both deprived of it; alike in their lives and deaths: both foolish and frantick, and equally unfit to sustain the weight of the go∣vernment, and both strangled. Hard by Achmet's Mosch lye buried his two sons Osman and Morat, both warlike Emperors, who endeavoured to reduce the souldiery, which through sloth and luxury had much degenerated, to their ancient disci∣pline. The first made away with by the Janizaries, whose ill behaviour in his expedition against Poland,

and other insolencies he could no longer support, and therefore de∣signed to have destroyed the whole order, and to have instituted a new militia; which they perceiving, they grew tumultuous and mutinous, and soon after had him bow-string'd: the other died with a debauch.

Being at the Mosch of Mahomet the great,* 1.34 I had a curiosity to see the tomb of his Mother, who was no way shaken by the artifices and enticements of her Husband and son from her fixt resolutions of con∣tinuing in her religion, but lived and died a Christian, being the daughter of Lazarus Despot of Servia. Se∣veral Turks, who were there present in the area, perceiving I bade my Janizary enquire which was her Turbeh or Chappel, immediately be∣fore they were ask'd, pointed to it with their finger: which I entred, and found very plain and unadorned. The Turks care not to come into it: but several poor Christians frequent it at set hours, and have a small alms allowed them for the prayers they make there.

This honour is indulged to some of the Bassas,* 1.35 who have by their va∣lour and council highly merited of the Empire, to be buried in the City, and to have their sepulchral monu∣ments in peculiar places they had purchased for this end: such as were the illustrious Bassa Ibrahim, to whom the Emperor Suleiman mar∣ried one of his daughters, in whose praises the Turkish Historians are so foolishly lavish and extravagant, who lies buried neer Suleimania; and Mahomet Kupriuli, who setled the government during the minority of the present Emperor, when it was almost torn asunder by the factions of the great men and the mutinies of the souldiery; buried neer the Mosch he built in Taouk-bazar. In the suburbs to the West very neer the haven there are several of these Chappels: and among others the tomb of Sultan Ejub,* 1.36 a person of great fame among them, as being, as they pretend, Standard-bearer to Mahomet, a Prophet, and Martyr, of whose zeal and industry in pro∣pagating

and defending the Musul∣man religion they tell a company of idle,* 1.37 foppish, and ridiculous stories. In the adjoyning area adorned with a portico, the new Emperor is in∣augurated, the Mufti girting his sword about him, this being the on∣ly ceremony used at his investiture, and is instead of a coronation. This place I suppose is chosen out of re∣spect to the memory of their great Saint, as if there were something of good omen in it, and to put the Em∣peror in mind of what he must do, if there be occasion, for the advance∣ment of religion.

The Janizaries by vertue of an old establishment,* 1.38 even in times of peace, that they might the sooner form themselves into a body, and prevent any sedition or tumult of the Citizens, were to live together: for which purpose there are two great Odas or buildings at a little distance one from the other at Con∣stantinople to receive those who are quartered there. But by the con∣nivence of the officers bribed with

money and presents, several are per∣mitted to be absent; and the mar∣ried men of the order turn shop∣keepers and artizans to make better provision for their wives and chil∣dren. Between these two chambers is their Mosch, where upon any emer∣gence of state, that either may have an influence upon the Empire or their body, they have their meetings and consultations.

The Acropolis or seven Towers,* 1.39 in the furthest angle of the City to the South upon the Propontis, serves rather for a prison, than a garrison: for though there be a few souldiers in it, yet I could observe no great guns or any other warlike furniture. In the garden belonging to the go∣vernour of the Castle is the tomb of Husain sirnamed Delli or the mad and furious, who had been Janizary-Aga or General of the Janizaries in Candia, where he was strangled by the command of the Vizir for several pretended miscarriages; but the true cause of his death was be∣lieved to be his great merit, which

the other envied, and could not brook with any patience, and ac∣cordingly contrived his ruine. But out of respect to his valour his bo∣dy was sent hither to be interred, and to be honoured with a monu∣ment.

I sought in vain for the several Palaces, Theaters, Baths, Conduits, Churches, and the other proud build∣ings with which this Imperial City was formerly adorned in the times of the Greecian Emperors, as I find them mentioned in ancient Histories and Surveys; and indeed it would be just matter of wonder, that no more of the monuments, which the Emperour Constantine fetcht from* 1.40 Rome and the other places of Italy to adorn this City which was to be called* 1.41 after his own name, and his successors emulous of the same glo∣ry afterward raised almost in every street, should now remain, if they had fallen into other hands than those of Turks, who make a greater ravage, where-ever they come, than either earthquakes or time it self.

The few remaining pieces of Anti∣quity are these:

The Circus or Hippodrome is about two or three furlongs in length,* 1.42 and almost half as wide. At one end of it is a large Colossus or Pillar,* 1.43 the top of it broken down, having suffered much by fire, and therefore called by the Franks la Colonna brugiata; in whose basis these verses are engraven:

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

About the middle there remains an entire Aguglia or Obelisk of a kind of Granite or Theban marble,* 1.44 commonly called the Hieroglyphical pillar, by reason of the several fi∣gures of animals and other represen∣tations engraven upon the sides ac∣cording to the Egyptian Priests and Philosophers, who used to involve

some trivial slight notices of religion and nature in such dark and per∣plext characters. It is of a square figure, the four sides making so ma∣ny equilateral triangles, which are sensibly contracted, as they rise higher and higher, till they end in a cone. That which makes it the more ad∣mirable, is, that it is one entire stone, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as both Codinus and Ma∣nuel Chrysaloras call it; whereas the Colossus consists of several pieces. The Emperour Theodosius raised it again upon its basis, after it had been cast down to the ground, (in all probability by an earthquake, to which this City is subject) as the double inscription attests, the one in Greek on the side to the West, the other in Latine to the East; which while I read with so much ease, the Turks who stood by, (such was their ignorance and stupidity) were amaz∣ed, and enquiring after the sense and meaning, seemed hugely pleased and satisfied with what I told them.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

DIFFICILIS QUONDAM DOMINIS PA∣RERE SERENIS
JUSSUS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM POR∣TARE TYRANNIS
OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SVBO∣LIVOVE PERENNI
TERDENIS SIC VICTUS EGO DOMI∣TUSQUE DIEBUS
IVDICE SUB PROCLO SUPERAS ELA∣TUS AD AURAS.

In the same Piazza is a pillar of wreathed brass hollowed,* 1.45 at the top of which are the necks and heads of three Serpents, which shut out at an equal distance triangular-wise, This in all probability was designed a Talisman (but whether made by that famous Conjurer Apollonius Tyanaeus, who resided here some time, is uncertain) to preserve the City from Serpents, that might an∣noy them: this being one of the pre∣tended wonderful effects of natural

Magick, according to the credulity and superstition of those times; which some fanciful men of late have very idly and foolishly gone about to make out and justify.

The Porphyry pillar of Constan∣tine the great,* 1.46 which he brought from old Rome, on the top of which he placed his own statue in brass, still remains in Taouk-bazar, bound about in several places of the shaft, where the pieces joyn with brass hoops; but the marble is much de∣faced and blackened by fire, the sta∣tue having been long time tumbled down.

In Aurat-bazar or the womens market upon an eminence stands another pillar,* 1.47 which is seen at a great distance by such as sail upon the Propontis: it rises to the heigth of about an hundred and forty feet, the top being broken off, to which they ascended by a winding pair of stairs; several figures in basso rilie∣vo are engraven upon it, which re∣late to a warlike expedition of the Emperour Arcadius, upon which

accompt among the Frankes it has got the name of the Historical pillar.

In the Western part of the City toward the Campaigne, but not far from the haven,* 1.48 are the remains of a certain palace called by the Turks Tekir Serai, and by the Greeks sup∣posed to be that of Constantine, who was the last Emperour, and the Son of an Helena too, the last fate as well as first glory of Constantinople deriving from the same names. In the lower part there is only left standing a chamber adorned with curious wrought pillars of the Co∣rinthian order, and above, a large stately hall. The other places are filled and stuffed up with ruines.

That Constantinople, tho lying upon the Sea,* 1.49 might not be destitute of fresh water, which is so useful and necessary to life, was the chief care of the Emperour Valentinian, who caused aqueducts to be raised, by which the water is conveyed to the City from hill to hill in a wind∣ing compass the space of eighteen

miles. But these by the sloth and carelesness of the Greeks and Turks falling to decay and rendred useless, were restored and refitted by the Emperor Suleiman, who was so in∣tent upon this great work, that he said he would go on with it, although the laying every stone stood him in a purse of money, that is, five hun∣dred dollars; and it was one of the three things he so earnestly wisht he might live to effect, the other two being the finishing of the Mosch which bears his name, and the ma∣king himself Master of Vienna.

The springs arise hard by a Vil∣lage called Domus-deri, which lies toward the black Sea, whose waters are conveyed partly through little channels, and partly through pipes under ground into several large ci∣sterns, nigh which are summer hou∣ses, floored,* 1.50 and sometimes the ciel∣ing painted, and the sides crusted with a kind of porcellane: the tops rising pyramidally, where the better sort of Turks in the heats of summer retire to enjoy the cool air, and for

the shady walks, bringing sometimes their women with them, and spend there several days, pitching their tents for their better accommodati∣on. Here it is, and here alone, that they seem to live gentily, and under∣stand how to make use of the con∣veniences and delights of nature. Every one here is a Prince, and fan∣cies himself for a time in Paradise. These cisterns are of different figures, square,* 1.51 round, oblong, hexagonal, made of free-stone, the bottom either paved or plaistered over, into which you descend by a pair of stairs sometimes twenty foot deep. Two of these above the rest are very stately, both within a mile of Bel∣grade, the one to the East, the other to the South-west. From this lat∣ter the waters are conveyed to the first Aqueduct neer a Greek Village called Pyrgos,* 1.52 the Christians of which, as of the neighbouring Villages, are free from paying haratch or head-money for their care in looking af∣ter the waters. This is a very mag∣nificent pile of building, and of a

great length, with a double range of arches about eight and forty or fifty in number, joyning two hills, and in the middle to the bottom of the valley it may be about one hun∣dred feet: the water running in a covered channel at the top. Not far on the other side of the plain is another great Aqueduct, which makes an angle, having three ranges of arches one above another. On one line are two and twenty arches in the uppermost range, through which and the other below it are two galleries about five foot wide, in some places shut up on each side, in others open at the regular di∣stance of about twelve foot: the contrivance was but necessary: for after the fall of rains or melting of the snow, which in some winters lies here very deep, there are such bogs below in the valleys, that no horse can pass that way: the other line is shorter, and consists of twelve arches, which grow less and less according to the greater or lesser steepiness of the hill. Hence about a mile you

pass to a third Aqueduct: which indeed is a most splendid and glo∣rious structure, containing only four arches in two ranges, the distance of the sides of the arches being above fifty foot. This Aqueduct is raised to a great heigth, whence the waters pass in an uninterrupted course, and fall into a large cistern in the City neer Sultan Selims Mosch, and so by earthen pipes are conveyed to the se∣veral houses.

The Greeks have six and twenty Churches in Constantinople,* 1.53 and six in Galata; of which I have given an account elsewhere.

Galata, as it appears from an old survey in the times of the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius,* 1.54 made up the thirteenth and fourteenth Regi∣ons, that there might be the same number in new Rome, as Constantine would have his new City also called, as in the old. It is situated on the North side of the haven,* 1.55 by which it is divided from Constantinople. The passage is very easy, and a great number of boat-men get their living

by carrying passengers to and again continually. This arm of the Sea is about half a mile wide, and in length from the Seraglio-point to the fresh water rivers between four and five miles; of a great depth, that Ships of a considerable burthen may lye with their bolt-sprits ashore, and have several fathoms of water at the stern; and so secure withal, being shut up with the several high hills and promontories, which break the force and violence of the wind and waves, that let the weather be ne∣ver so ill, and the Sea boisterous in the Propontis, the Vessels are not in the least stirred with it in this narrow strait. The Arsenal is to the West, where there are several voltas or chambers built arch-wise, where they hall up their Galleys after the sum∣mer expedition is over.

Galata of it self, both for the compass of the ground it takes up, and its strength, may be justly ac∣counted a large City, and is very populous. It is encompassed with walls flankered with towers, built

by the Emperor Anastasius, having a wide and deep ditch to the land∣ward. It runs along the side of a hill, higher than those of Constan∣tinople, and in several places is very steep. Formerly toward the declen∣sion of the Greecian Empire it was in the possession of the Genoueses; the arms of some noble Families of that republick are still here and there to be seen engraven in the walls. Without which, both upon the ridge of the hill and upon the plain, farther in, toward and parallel with the haven, are several large streets, which whole tract of ground, by reason of its situation on the other side of the water, is therefore called by the Greek name Pera,* 1.56 where most of the Christian Am∣bassadors choose both for their con∣venience and privacy to make their residence.

FINIS.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The advan∣tage of its situation in general.
• * 1.2

  Difficulty of access.
• * 1.3

  Hellespont.
• * 1.4

  Dardanelli.
• * 1.5

  Sestos.
• * 1.6

  Abydus.
• * 1.7

  Bosphorus.
• * 1.8

  Symplega∣des.
• * 1.9

  Pompey's pillar.
• * 1.10

  Advantage of situation in respect of trade.
• * 1.11

  Stambol.
• * 1.12

  Its particu∣lar site.
• * 1.13

  Chalcedon.
• * 1.14

  Figure of Constanti∣nople.
• * 1.15

  Extent.
• * 1.16

  Situated upon seven hills.
• * 1.17

  Its incon∣veniences.
• * 1.18

  Ordinary houses.
• * 1.19

  Bassas hou∣ses.
• * 1.20

  Walls.
• * 1.21

  Its prospect from the land.
• * 1.22

  Gates▪
• * 1.23

  Seraglio.
• * 1.24

  Divan.
• * 1.25

  Caravan∣serais.
• * 1.26

  Bezesten.
• * 1.27

  Bagnos.
• * 1.28

  Moschs.
• * 1.29

  Sancta So∣phia.
• * 1.30

  Suleimania.
• * 1.31

  Achmets Mosch.
• * 1.32

  What com∣mon to all the great Moschs.
• * 1.33

  Sepulchral monuments of the Em∣perors.
• * 1.34

  Of the Mo∣ther of Ma∣homet the great.
• * 1.35

  Of the Bas∣sas and
• * 1.36

  Of Sultan Ejub, where
• * 1.37

  The Grand Signor is inaugura∣ted.
• * 1.38

  The cham∣bers of the Janizaries.
• * 1.39

  Seven Towers.
• * 1.40

  Few anci∣ent monu∣ments left.
• * 1.41

  〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 as he writes himself in a letter to Euseb. Bish∣op of Cae∣sarea, V. Theodoriti Hist. Eccl. l. 1. c. 16.
• * 1.42

  Hippo∣drome.
• * 1.43

  Colossus.
• * 1.44

  Hierogly∣phical Pil∣lar.
• * 1.45

  Serpent pillar of brass.
• * 1.46

  The pillar of Constan∣tine.
• * 1.47

  Historical pillar.
• * 1.48

  Ruines of Constantines palace.
• * 1.49

  Aqueducts.
• * 1.50

  Kiosks or summer-houses.
• * 1.51

  Cisterns.
• * 1.52

  Pyrgos.
• * 1.53

  Greecian Churches.
• * 1.54

  Galata.
• * 1.55

  Haven.
• * 1.56

  Pera▪